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SWOOtt— XXC3H  OJ. 


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THE  UNIVERSITY 
OF  ILLINOIS 
LIBRARY 


From  the  collection  of 
Julius  Doerner,  Chicago 
Purchased,  1918. 


(o^lS 

W 


THE 


BUCKEYE  COOK  BOOK 


A careful  compilation 
of  tried  and  approved  recipes  for 
all  departments  of  the  household 


c Compiled  by 

MRS.  ESTELLE  WOODS  WILCOX^ 


Minneapolis,  Minn.  (?) 
1887  (?) 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 
in  2017  with  funding  from 

University  of  Illinois  Urbana-Champaign  Alternates 


https://archive.org/details/buckeyecookbookcOOunse 


(?4/.5- 

4h 


1!*0  XHOMD 

PLUCKY  HOUSEWIVES 


WOBZ 


€v  AXA0wnm 


N 


70C285 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS, 


Bread-making  .... 

PAGES . 

. 7-33 

Breakfast  and  Tea  Cakes,  (Toast  and  Yeast) 

. 34-60 

Cake-making,  (Layer  Cakes,  Crullers  and  Doughnuts  and  Ginger-Bread) 

. 61-105 

Creams  and  Custards 

. 106-128 

Confectionery  .... 

. 129-142 

Canning  Fruits  .... 

. 143-159 

Catsups  and  Sauces  . 

. 160-181 

Cheese 

. 182-196 

Drinks  

. 197-224 

Eggs,  (Omelets)  .... 

. 225-245 

Fish  ...... 

. 246-288 

Fritters  and  Croquettes  . 

. 289-305 

Fruit,  (Dried  Fruits) 

. 307-348 

Game  ..... 

. 349-375 

Griddle  Cakes  .... 

. 376-383 

Ices  and  Ice  Cream  . 

. 384-41': 

Icing 

. 413-429 

Jams  and  Jellies,  (Fruit  Jellies  and  Dessert  Jellies) 

. 430-452 

Meats,  (Gravies  and  Cold  Meats* 
Mush 

. 453-588 
. 589-591 

Mushrooms 

595-602 

Pastry 

; 603-640 

PiciiLEs,  (Sweet  Pickles)  . 

. 641-670 

Potatoes  

671-693 

Poultry  . ... 

, 694-720 

Preserves  

• 

. 724-731 

Puddings  and  Sauces 

t 

735-771 

Salads  . . ... 

. 772-796 

Shell- FISH 

, 797-81 7 

Soups  

, 818-851 

Vegetables,  (Dried  Vegetables) 

. 852-88» 

Bills  of  Fare  for  every  day  in  the  year 

, 8'  1-908 

Blanks  for  Additional  Recipes 

. 909-912 

Cook’s  Time-Table 

. 913-914 

Table  of  Weights  and  Measures 

. 915-916 

When  food  is  in  Season 

. 917-919 

Comparative  Value  of  Fuel  . 

. 920-921 

Housekeeping  .... 

. 922-950 

Dining  Room  .... 

. 951-958 

How  TO  give  a dinner 

. 959-971 

Dining  Room  Dots 

. 972-974 

Garnishes  and  Sauces 

. 975-981 

Kitchen 

. 982-991 

Kitchen  Wrinkles 

. 991-1014 

Kitchen  Utensils 

1014-1016 

Management  of  Help 

1017-1020 

Hints  about  Marketing  . 

1021-1034 

Cutting  and  Curing  Meats 

1035-1053 

Carving 

1054-1058 

Butter  and  Cheese  . 

• 

1059-106? 

Chemistry  of  Food 

1064-1072 

Cellar  and  Ice  House 

• 

1073-1081 

Laundry  

• 

1082-1100 

Something  about  Babies  . 

1101-1118 

Hints  for  THE  Well  . 

1119-1128 

Hints  for  the  Sick-Room  . 

1129-1134 

Food  for  the  Sick 

P. 

1134-1143 

Medical 

1144-1178 

Accidents  and  Sudden  Sickness 

9 

1179-1186 

The  Arts  of  the  Toilet 

• 

1187-1196 

The  Flower  Garden 

« 

P 

1197-1211 

Dressmaking  at  Home 

• 

.1212-1334 

Miscellaneous  .... 

• 

1235-1261 

Alphabetical  index 

« 

1262-1.276 

I 


PREFACES. 


Even  the  experienced  housekeeper  frequently  feels  the  need  of 
a trustworthy  book  of  reference  regarding  household  matters,  to 
which  she  may  confidently  apply,  to  refresh  her  memory  or  to  sup- 
ply knowledge  which  her  experience  has  not  furnished.  To  th© 
young  wife,  who  enters  upon  the  task  of  home-making  with  little 
experience,  such  a book  is  invaluable  and  almost  indispensable. 
Experiments  which  fail  are  costly  in  material,  as  well  as  in  courage, 
and  no  young  housekeeper  can  afford  to  blunder  into  a knowledge 
of  her  duties,  when  with  such  simple  and  explicit  instructions  as 
any  experienced  house-wife  could  give,  disastrous  failures  may  be 
avoided.  Many  of  the  books  which  have  resulted  from  attempts  to 
give  such  instructions  in  print  have  been  partial  failures,  either  be- 
cause the  authors  were  too  literary  to  be  practical  housekeepers,  or, 
being  good  housekeepers,  and  familiar  with  the  subjects  treated, 
found  it  difficult  to  realize  the  complete  ignorance  of  the  young  and 
untrained,  and  in  consequence  failed  to  express  clearly  and  con- 
cisely the  full  processes  in  detail.  In  gathering  the  material  for  The 
Buckeye  Cook-Book,  the  one  aim  has  been  to  pack  into  it  the  great- 
est possible  amount  of  information  of  real  value  to  housekeepers  of 
that  large  class  who  by  choice  or  necessity  look  carefully  after  the 
management  of  their  households,  planning  to  get  the  best  possible 
returns  for  the  money  expended.  This  is  not  a hap-hazard  collection 
of  recipes,  clipped  at  random  from  doubtful  sources,  but  has  been 
made  up,  without  sparing  time,  labor  or  expense,  from  the  choicest 
bits  of  the  best  experience  of  hundreds  who  have  long  traveled  the 
daily  round  of  household  duties,  not  reluctantly  like  drudges,  but 
lovingly,  with  heart  and  hand  fully  enlisted  in  the  work.  Those 
housewives,  especially,  whose  purses  are  not  over-plethoric  will,  it  iti 
believed,  find  its  pages  full  of  timely  and  helpful  suggestions  in  their 


PREFACE. 


efforts  to  make  the  balance  of  the  household  ledger  appear  on  the. 
right  side,  without  lessening  the  excellence  of  the  table  or  robbing 
home  of  any  comfort  or  attraction. 

The  arrangements  of  subjects  treated,  whenever  practicable,  has 
been  made  in  the  simple  order  of  the  alphabet,  and  for  the  sake  of 
still  more  ready  reference  a very  full  alphabetical  index  has  been  added. 
Whenever  a recipe  is  given  within  another,  by  an  addition  of  ingred- 
ients, it  is  indexed  and  marked  by  italics ; when  one  recipe  which  ap- 
pears elsewhere  in  the  book  is  referred  to  in  another  recipe,  the  former 
begins  with  a capital  letter.  The  instructions  which  precede  the 
recipes  of  each  department  have  been  carefully  made  up,  and  are  en- 
tirely trustworthy,  and  the  recipes  themselves  are  mosty  new  to  print 
and  well  indorsed.  These  instructions  should  be  carefully  read  before 
iiny  recipe,  following  them,  is  attempted.  Several  suggestive  articles 
liave  also  been  introduced,  which,'  though  not  belonging  strictly  to 
cookery.  Dear  such  close  relations  to  it  that  the  fitness  cf  their  ap- 
pearance in  the  connection  is  evident. 

There  has  been  no  attempt  at  display  or  effect,  the  only  pur- 
j)Ose  being  to  express  ideas  as  clearly  and  concisely  as  possible,  and 
to  make  a thoroughly  simple  and  practical  work.  In  the  effort  to 
avoid  the  mistakes  of  others,  greater  errors  may  have  been  commit- 
ted; but  the  book  is  submitted  just  as  it  is  to  the  generous  judg- 
ment of  those  who  consult  it,  with  the  hope  that  it  may  lessen  their 
perplexities,  and  stimulate  that  just  pride  without  which  work  is 
drudgery  and  great  excellence  impossible. 


BSEAD-MAKINGL 


1 


BREAJ^-MAKma*. 


There  is  an  old  and  true  saying,  that  “she  who  has  baked  a good 
batch  of  bread  has  done  a good  day’s  work.”  Bread-making  should 
stand  at  the  head  of  domestic  accomplishments,  since  the  health  and 
happiness  of  the  family  depends  immeasurably  upon  good  bread ; 
and  there  is  certain  to  come  a tim  3 in  the  experience  of  every  true, 
thoughtful  woman  when  she  is  glad  and  proud  of  her  ability  to 
make  nice,  sweet  loaves,  free  from  soda,  alum,  and  other  injurious 
ingredients,  or  bitterly  regrets  that  she  neglected  to  learn,  or  was  so 
unfortunate  as  not  to  have  been  taught,  at  least  the  first  requisites  of 
good  bread-making. 

Opinions  as  to  what  constitutes  good  bread  differ,  perhaps,  as 
much  as  tastes  and  opinions  concerning  any  thing  else,  but  all  will 
agree  that  bread,  to  be  good,  ought  to  be  light,  sweet — that  is,  free 
from  any  perceptible  acid  or  yeasty  taste — flaky,  granular  or  not 
liable  to  become  a doughy  mass,  and  as  white  as  the  grade  of  flour 
used  will  allow.  Persons  with  delicate  digestive  powers  and  child- 
ren should  not  use  new  bread,  and  therefore  must  have  such  as  will 
keep  with  little  change  of  texture  and  none  of  quality  or  taste  for 
several  days.  To  obtain  these  qualities  in  bread,  use  the  best  flour, 
as  in  families  where  no  bread  is  wasted  the  best  is  cheapest. 

Housekeepers  seldom  select'flour  by  examination.  They  usually 
take  some  tried  brand,  or  select  on  the  recommendation  of  their  fur- 
nisher. No  rule  can  be  given  by  which  an  inexperienced  person  can 
determine  the  grade  of  flouj  with  accuracy,  but  a few  hints  will 


8 


BREAD-MAKING. 


enable  any  one  to  know  what  not  to  buy.  Good  flour  adheres  to  the 
hand,  and,  when  pressed,  shows  the  imprint  of  the  lines  of  the  skin. 
Its  tint  is  cream  white.  Never  buy  that  which  has  a blue-white  tinge. 
Poor  flour  is  not  adhesive,  may  be  blown  about  easily,  and  some- 
times has  a dingy  look,  as  though  mixed  with  ashes. 

Flour  should  be  bought  in  quantities  corresponding  to  the  num- 
ber in  the  family,  that  it  may  not  become  damaged  by  long  keeping. 
Old  flour  is  said  by  professional  bakers  to  be  best  for  bread-making, 
provided  it  is  kept  perfectly  pure  and  sweet,  which  is  very  difiicult 
to  do  when  surrounded,  as  is  necessary  in  small  households,  by  so 
many  contaminating  influences  of  odor,  moisture,  etc.  For  this 
reason  it  is  better  to  buy  in  small  quantities,  depending  upon  the 
dealer  to  furnish  that  which  is  not  newly  ground.  In  a family  of  flve, 
a barrel,  or  even  a half-barrel  sack  of  flour,  excellent  when  flrst 
bought,  will  often  become  much  deteriorated  before  being  used  up. 
Flour  should  be  kept  dry,  cool  and  entirely  beyond 
the  reach  of  marauders,  big  or  little,  especially  the  Fiour 
latter,  for  the  infinitesimal  meal  moth  is  far  more  to  be  dreaded  than 
rats  or  mice.  The  three,  six  and  ten-gallon  cans  (about  six  pounds 
to  a gallon)  with  tight  tin  covers,  made  by  the  manu- 
facturers of  granite  iron  ware,  are  excellent  for  this  pur- 
pose, and  not  expensive  considering  their  durability. 
Every  receptacle  of  flour  should  be  thoroughly  and  fre- 
quently cleansed,  to  guard  against  animal  as  well  as 
vegetable  parasites.  A single  speck  of  mold,  coming 
from  old  or  damp  flour  in  an  obscure  corner  of  the  flour- 
box,  will  leaven  the  whole  as  rapidly  and  strongly  as  ten  times  its 
weight  in  yeast. 

Bread-making  seems  a simple  process  enough,  but  it  requires  a 
delicate  care  and  watchfulness,  and  a thorough  knowledge  of  all  the 
contingencies  of  the  process,  dependent  on  the  different  qualities  of 
flour,  and  the  varying  kinds  and  conditions  of  yeast,  and  the  change 
of  seasons ; the  process  which  raises  bread  successfully  in  winter 
making  it  sour  in  summer.  There  are  many  little  things  in  bread- 
making which  require  accurate  observation,  and,  while  valuable  rec- 
ipes and  well-defined  methods  in  detail  are  invaluable  aids,  noth- 
ing but  experience  will  secure  the  name  merited  by  so  few,  though 
earnestly  coveted  l)y  every  practical,  sensible  housekeeper — ‘^an 


BREAD-MAKING. 


9 


excellent  bread-maker.”  Three  things  are  indispensable  to  success : 

good  flour,  good  yeast,  and  watchful  care.  Never 
use  flour  without  sifting;  this  is  done  with  a 
plain  sieve  like  that  represented  in  the  illustra- 
tion or  with  some  one  of  the  many  patent  sieves 
which  are  more  rapid  but  not 
always  more  satisfactory,  and 
a large  tin  or  wooden  pail  with 
a tight-fitting  cover,  kept  full 
Flour  Sieve.  Qf  giffced  flour,  will  be  found 

a great  convenience.  All  kinds  of  flour  and  meal, 
except  buckwheat  and  Graham  — and  Graham, 
too,  when  coarse  — need  sifting,  and  all,  like 
wheat  flour,  should  be  bought  in  small  quantities, 
as  they  become  damp  and  musty  by  long  standing. 

• THE  YEAST. 

After  the  flour,  the  yeast  or  leaven  is  the  next  essential  element 
in  bread.  For  regular  fare  most,  especially  women,  prefer  “yeast 
bread,”  but  men  who  can  not  forget  “how  mother  used  to  cook,^^ 
have  a liking  for  “salt-rising”  bread,  and  the  latter  deserves  the  ac- 
quaintance of  the  housekeeper  an«l  a frequent  welcome  on  the  fam- 
ily table.  The  dry  hop  yeast,  such  as  Twin  Bros.,  Stratton’s, 
National,  Eagle,  Gillett’s  and  many  others,  also  the  compressed 
yeast,  are  all  good,  if  fresh,  and  always  available,  for  they  are  found 
in  every  grocery.  Many  housekeepers  use  baker’s  yeast,  and  buy 
for  a penny  or  two  what  will  serve  each  baking  of  bread.  For  those 
who  prefer  home-made  or  potato  yeast  excellent  recipes  are  else- 
where given.  Potato  yeast  has  two  advantages  over  other  kinds ; 
bread  made  from  it  keeps  moist  longer,  and  there  is  no  danger  that 
an  excess  of  yeast  will  injure  the  flavor  of  the  bread.  Less  of  any 
kind  of  yeast  should  be  used  in  hottest  summer  weather,  and  more 
in  extreme  cold  weather. 

THE  SPONGE. 

This  is  made  from  warm  water  or  milk,  yeast  and  flour  (some 
add  mashed  potatoes,  which  should  be  mashed  quickly  while  tender, 
hot  and  mealy,  being  careful  to  remove  all  lumps,  or  mash  through 
a colander,  then  add  a little  flour  with  a spoon,  and  stir,  then  a lit- 
tle water,  and  stir,  and  so  on,  mixing  the  flour  and  water  with  the 


10 


BREAD-MAKING. 


j^otatoes  gradually)  mixed  together  in  the  proportion  of  one  pint 
wetting  (water  or  milk)  to  two  pints 
of  sifted  flour.  If  milk  is  used  it 
should  be  new,  and  must  be  first 
scalded,  and  then  cooled  to  blood 
heat.  The  scalding  tends  to  pre- 
vent souring.  In  using  water  bring 
it  to  blood  heat.  If  the  “wetting”  is  too  hot,  the  bread  will  be 
coarse.  When  water  is  used  a tablespoon*  of  lard  or  butter  makes 
the  bread  more  tender.  Bread  made  from  milk  is,  of  course,  more 
tender  and  nutritious,  but  it  has  not  the  sweet  taste  of  the  wheat,  and 
will  not  keep  as  long  as  that  made  from  water.  When  mixed  with 
milk  it  requires  less  flour  and  less  kneading.  In  summer,  care  must 
be  taken  not  to  set  sponge  too  early,  at  least  not  before  eight  or  nine 
o’clock  in  the  evening.  Sponge  mixed  with  bran  water,  warm  in 
winter  and  cold  in  summer,  makes  sweeter  bread.  Boil  bran  in  the 
proportion  of  one  pint  to  a quart  of  water  and  strain.  In  very  hot 
weather,  sponge  may  be  made  with  cold  water.  In  winter,  mix  the. 
batter  with  water  or  milk  at  blood  warmth,  testing  it  with  the  finger, 
and  making  it  as  warm  as  can  be  borne ; stir  in  the  flour,  which  will 
tool  it  sufficiently  for  the  yeast ; cover  closely  and  place  in  a warm 
and  even  tenjperature.  A good  plan  is  to  fold  a clean  blanket  several 
limes,  and  cover  with  it,  providing  the  sponge  is  set  in  a very  large 
crock  or  jar,  so  that  ther : is  no  danger  of  its  running  over.  As 
a general  rule,  one  small  tea-cup  of  yeast  and  three  pints  of  “wet- 
ting” will  make  sponge  enough  for  four  ordinary  loaves.  In  all 
sponges  add  the  3^east  last,  making  sure  that  the  sponge  is  not  hot 
enough  to  scald  it ; when  placed  to  rise,  always  cover  closely.  In 
cold  weather  the  temperature  runs  down  very  quickly  in  many 
kitchens  after  the  fire  is  out,  and  the  bread  should  be  set  earlier  in 
^the  evening  and  in  a warmer  place ; a temperature  of  eighty  to  ninety 
degrees  is  right. 

When  it  rises  well  for  the  first  two  hours  it  will  go  on  rising 
unless  the  temperature  falls  below  the  freezing  point.  It  is  an  im- 
nrovement  to  heat  the  sponge  thoroughly^  like  batter  for  a cake,  for 
fifteen  minutes  or  longer.  Never  set  sponge  in  tin,  but  always  in 
stoneware,  because  a more  steady  and  uniform  heat  can  be  main- 

" o lienever,  in  this  book,  the  words  cupful,  coffee-cunfnl,  tea-cupful,  table-spoonful,  etc., 
c.cnr,  the  termination  “ful”  is  dropped,  for  the  sake  of  brevity. 


BREAD-MAKING. 


11 


tained  in  a stone  jar  than  in  tin.  Use  a six-quart  jar  for  the  sponge, 
which  when  light  enough  to  mix  will  have  risen  almost  to  top  of  jar 
and  be  covered  with  fine  white  bubbles.  If  left  standing  too  long 
the  sponge  will  sink  in  the  middle,  which  is  an  indication  that  it  is 
slightly  sour,  and  soda  must  be  used  to  sweeten  before  using,  in  the 
proportion  of  a half-teaspoon  to  a quart  of  wetting. 

To  make  good  bread — Always  be 

“Up  in  the  morning  early,  just  at  the  peep  of  day,” 


in  summer  time,  to  prevent  the  sponge  becoming  sour  by  too  long 
standing,  and  in  winter  to  be  getting  materials  warmed  and  in  readi- 
ness for  use.  A large,  seamless,  tin  dish  pan  with  handles  and  a 
tight-fitting  cover,  kept  for  this  purpose 
alone,  is  better  than  a wooden  bowl  for 
bread.  A fourteen-quart  pan  is  a good 
size  when  three  pints  wetting  is  used.  It 
should  be  thoroughly  washed  and  scalded 
every  time  it  is  used.  Measure  and  sift  the  flour.  It  is  convenient 
to  keep  two  quart  cups,  one  for  dry  and  the  other  for  liquid  measur- 
ing. In  the  winter  always  warm  the  flour  (by  placing  it  in  a pan  in 
a warm  oven  for  a few  minutes  or  by  setting  it  overnight  where  it 
will  be  kept  at  the  same  temperature  as  the  sponge),  and  also  the 
sponge.  Put  the  flour  in  a bread  pan,  make  a large  well  in  the  cen- 
ter, into  which  pour  the  sponge,  adding  two  level  teaspoons  of  salt 
(this  is  the  quantity  for  four  loaves  of  bread) ; mix  well,  being  care- 
ful not  to  get  the  dough  too  stiff ; turn  out  on  the  bread-board,  rub 
the  pan  clean,  and  add  the  “rubbings”  to  the  bread.  Knead  for 
from  forty-five  minutes  to  one  hour,  or  until  the  dough  ceases  to 
stick  to  either  the  board  or  hands.  Do  not  stop  kneading  until  done. 
Any  pause  in  the  process  injures  the  bread.  The  process  of  knead- 
ing is  very  important ; use  just  as  little  flour  in  kneading  as  will 
prevent  sticking,  and  practice  will  enable  one  to  make  a little  flour 
go  a great  way.  Some  good  bread-makers  knead  with  the  palms  of 
the  hands  until  the  dough  is  a flat  cake,  then  fold  once,  repeating 
^ this  operation  until  the  dough  is  perfectly  smooth  and  elastic ; oth- 
ers clo’se  their  hands  and  press  hard  and  quickly  into  the  dough  with 
the  fists,  dipping  them  into  the  flour  when  the  dough  sticks  ; or  after 
kneading,  chop  with  the  chopping  knife  and  then  knead  again ; oth- 
ers still  knead  with  a potato  masher,  thinking  it  a great  saving  of 
strength.  Another  niethod,  used  by  good  bread-makers,  is  to  raise 


12 


BREAD-MAKING. 


Bi'ead  Pan  with  Cover. 


the  whole  mass  and  drop  or  dash  it  with  considerable  force  upon  the 
mixing-board  or  table  for  several  minutes.  No  exact  directions  can 
be  given  in  regard  to  kneading,  but  experience  and  practice  will 
prove  the  best  guides.  There  are  one  or  two  machines  for  kneading 
bread  that  save  labor,  and  which  may  he  purchased  in  any  house- 
furnishing  store  in  the  larger  cities.  After  the  bread  is  thoroughly 
kneaded,  form  into  a round  mass  or  large  loaf,  sprinkle  the  bread- 
pan  well  with  flour,  and,  having  placed  the  loaf  in  it,  sprinkle  flour 
lightly  on  the  top  (some  grease  the  top  with  salted  lard  or  butter  in- 
stead of  sprinkling  with  flour),  cover  closely, 
and  set  to  rise  in  a warm  temperature,  70°  to 
80° ; let  it  rise  to  twice  its  original  size  this  time, 
or  until  it  seams  or  cracks  on  top,  say  from  one 
oo  two  hours,  differing  in  time  with  the  season 
of  the  year.  Have  the  baking  pans  already 
greased  with  fresh,  sweet  lard,  or  American 
Cooking  Oil  (as  butter  burns  more  easily),  knead  the  dough  down 
in  the  pan,  cut  into  equal  parts,  place  one  at  a time  on  the  board, 
mold  each  into  a smooth,  oblong  loaf  (handling  as  little  as  possible), 
not  too  large,  and  put  one  after  another  into  the  prepared  baking- 
pan  ; grease  the  tops  of  the  loaves  with  salted  lard  or  butter,  greas- 
ing between  them  also,  when  several  are  baked  in  one  pan,  to  insure 
easy  and  even  separation,  and  set  to  rise.  Or  the  loaves  may  be 
made  by  buttering  the  hands,  and  taking  enough  from  the  mass  to 
form  a loaf,  molding  it  into  shape  m the  hands ^ without  using  flour. 
This  insures  a nice,  brown,  tender  crust.  Loaves  made  in  the  French 
style,  long  and  narrow,  are  about  half  crust,  and  more  easily  digested^ 
the  action  of  heat  anticipating  part  of  the  digestive  process.  In  mold- 
ing do  not  leave  any  lumps  or  loose  flour 
adhering  to  the  outside,  but  mold  until  the 
loaves  are  perfectly  smooth.  No  particu- 
lar directions  can  be  given  in  regard  to  the  time  bread  should  stand 
after  it  is  molded  and  placed  in  the 
pans,  because  here  is  the  point  where 
observation  and  judgment  are  so  in- 
dispensable. In  hot  weather,  when 
the  yeast  is  very  good  and  the  bread 
very  light,  it  must  not  stand  over  fifteen  minutes  before  placing  to 
hake.  If  it  is  cold  weather,  and  the  yeast  is  less  active,  or  the  bread 


Bread  Set  to  Rise. 


BREAD-MAKING. 


13 


not  perfectly  raised,  it  may  sometimes  stand  an  hour  in  the  pans 
without  injury.  When  it  is  risen  so  as  to  seam  or  crack,  it  is  ready 
for  the  oven ; if  it  stands  after  this  it  becomes  son.r,  and  even  if  il 
does  not  sour  it  loses  its  freshness  and  sweetness,  and  the  bread  be- 
comes dry  sooner  after  baking.  Bread  should  undergo  but  two  fer- 
mentations ; the  saccharine  or  sweet 
fermentation,  and  the  vinous,  when 
it  smells  something  like  foaming  beer. 
The  housewife  who  would  have  good, 
sweet  bread,  must  never  let  it  pass  this 
Bread  Ready  for  Oven.  cliaiige,  because  tlie  third  or  acetous 

fermentation  then  takes  place.  This  last  can  be  remedied  by  adding 
soda  in  the  proportion  of  one  teaspoon  to  each  quart  of  wetting ; or, 
which  is  the  same  thing,  a teaspoon  to  two  quarts  of  flour ; but  the 
bread  will  be  much  less  nutritious  and  healthful,  and  some  of  the 
best  elements  of  the  flour  will  be  lost.  Always  add  salt  to  all  breads 
as  the  dough  will  rise  better,  but  salt  sponge.  The  best  to  use 
is  an  English  salt,  as  it  has  less  of  the  fishy  taste  than  American  salt 
and  a much  more  delicate  flavor.  A small  quantity  of  white  sugar  is  an 
improvement  to  all  bread  dough  and  some  add  a little  lard,  but  if 
any  shortening  is  used  the  American  Cooking  Oil  is  much  nicer  for 
■either  bread,  rolls  or  biscuits.  Bread  should  always  be  mixed  as 
soft  as  it  can  he  handled^  but  in  using  the  “new  process”  flour  made 
from  spring  wheat,  the  dough  requires  to  be  much  harder  than  is 
necessary  when  using  that  made  from  winter  wheat. 

Good  bread-makers  differ  widely  as  to  the  number  of  times 
bread  should  rise,  some  insisting^  that  the  rule  of  our  good  grand- 
mothers, who  only  allowed  it  to  rise  once,  insures  the  sweetest  and 
most  nutritious  bread,  and  that  in  all  subsequent  fermentations  a 
decomposition  takes  place  that  is  damaging  to  the  wholesome  qual- 
ities of  the  “staff  of  life.” 


In  making  the  French  loaf,  an  easy  way 
is  to  bake  it  in  Vienna  Roll  pan. 

A new  innovation  in  bread-making  is  the 
use  of  compressed  yeast,  tending  much 
towards  simplifying  and  shortening  the  process,  and  by  many  con- 
sidered a most  perfect  method.  The  recipe  given  hereafter  is  a 
complete  guide. 


14 


BREAD-MAKING. 


Every  housekeeper  should  provide  herself  with  what  is  called  by 
bakers  a “proof-box”  for  placing  bread,  biscuit, rolls, etc.,  (already  in 
the  bread-pan)  ill  during  the  process  of  rising.  This 
is  nothing  more  nor  less  than  an  air-tight  wooden 
box  that  can  be  made  by  anyone  at  all  familiar  with  Round  Cornered  Bread  Pan. 
the  use  of  tools,  and  its  size  should  of  course  depend  upon  the 
size  of  the  family,  which  in  turn  regulates  the  quantity  of  dough  to 
be  raised.  Beside  giving  the  dough  this  protection,  the  careful  bak- 
er also  folds  a cloth  or  towel  around  it  before  putting  on  the  close- 
fitting  cover  of  the  box.  Kept  thus  excluded  from  the  air  the  out- 
side of  the  loaves  or  rolls  is  as  fresh  and  tender  when  put  in  the 
oven  as  the  inside.  Set  the  box  near  the  range  where  it  will  receive 
the  necessary  warmth,  and  be  sure  that  it  is  kept  perfectly  sweet 
and  clean,  using  it  for  no  other  purposes  whatever.  Air  and  dry 
the  box  thoroughly  each  time  before  using. 


TO  BAKE  BREAD.  . 

Here  is  the  important  point,  for  the  bread  may  be  perfect  thus 
far  and  then  be  spoiled  in  baking.  No  definite  rules  can  be  given 
that  apply  equally  well  to  every  stove  and  range ; 
but  one  general  rule  must  be  observed,  which  is,  to 
have  a steady,  moderate  heat,  such  as  is  more 
minutely  described  in  the  directions  for  baking  large  cakes.  The 
oven  must  be  just  hot  enough ; if  too  hot,  a firm  crust  is  formed  be- 
fore the  bread  has  expanded  enough,  and  it  will  be  heavy.  To  test 
the  heat,  place  a teaspoon  of  flour  on  an  old  piece  of  crockery  (to 
secure  an  even  heat),  and  set  in  middle  of  the  oven;  if  it  browns  in 
one  minute  the  heat  is  right.  An  oven  in  which  the  bare  hand  and 
arm  can  not  be  held  longer  than  to  count  twenty  moderately  is  hot 
enough ; or  the  “paper  test”  is  to  put  half  a sheet  of  writing  paper  in 
the  oven ; if  it  catches  fire  it  is  too  hot ; open  the  dampers  and  wait 
ten  minutes,  when  put  in  another  piece  of  paper ; if  it  blackens  it  is 
still  too  hot.  Ten  minutes  later  put  in  a third  piece ; if  it  gets  dar^ 
'brown  the  oven  is  right  for  all  small  pastry,  called  ‘‘^dark  brown  pa- 
per  JieatP  Light  brown  paper  heat  is  suitable  for  vol-au-vents  or 
fruit  pies'.  Dark  yellow  paper  heat  for  large  pieces  of  pastry  or 
meat  pies,  pound  cake,  bread,  etc.  Light  yellow  paper  beat  for 
sponge  cake,  meringues,  etc.  To  obtain  these  various  degrees  of 
heat,  try  paper  every  ten  minutes  till  heat  required  for  the  purpose 


Bread  aud  Biscuit  Baas. 


BREAD-MAKING. 


15 


is  attained.  Remember  thg-t  ‘dight  yellow”  means  paper  only  tinged ; 
“dark  yellow,”  paper  the  color  of  ordinary  pine  wood ; “light  brown” 
is  only  a shade  darker,  about  the  color  of  nice  pie-crust,  and  dark 
brown  a shade  darker,  by  no  means  coffee  color.  The  attention  of 
stove-makers  seems  never  to  have  been  directed  to  the  fact  that  there 
is  no  accurate  means  of  testing  the  heat  of  ovens,  but  it  is  to  be 
hoped  that  in  the  near  future  some  simple  device,  or  practical  ap- 
plication of  the  thermometer,  may  be  found  which  will  render  un- 
necessary such  inaccurate  and  untrustworthy  tests  as  must  now  be 
used,  and  thus  reduce  baking  to  a science ; and  even  now 
busy^  brains  are  at  work  to  secure  this  result,  prompted  by 
a suggestion  in  our  first  edition.  The  oven  door  should  be  closed 
immediately  upon  putting  the  bread  in,  and  be  sure  that 
no  part  of  the  range  is  open  during  the  baking ; 
neither  should  the  door  be  opened  too  soon  nor  too 
vDften  U)  look  at  the  bread.  About  ten  minutes 
vifter  putting  in  the  loaves  it  is  best  to  look  into  the  oven  to  see  how 
the  bread  is  doing,  and  once  or  twice  again  during  the  baking,  as 
the  loaves  may  require  changing,  opening  and  closing  the  door  as 
quickly  as  possible.  If  the  loaves  begin  to  brown  too  quickly  cover 
with  a piece  of  thick  brown  paper ; if  they  begin  to  brown  quickly  at 
c»ne  end  and  not  at  the  other  change  their  position,  or  if  the  loaf  at 
the  back  of  the  oven  bakes  faster  than  those  at  the  front  change  them 


Oval  ISread  Fan. 


about.  To  test  whether  the  bread  is  done,  break  the  loaves  apart 
and  press  gently  with  the  finger ; if  elastic,  it  is  done,  but  if  clammy 
not  done,  and  must  be  returned  fo  the  oven ; or,  if  the  loaves  are 
single,  test  with  a straw  plucked  frorn  a broom.  Break  off  the 
branches  and  thurst  the  larger  end  into  the  loaf ; if  it  is  sticky  when 
withdrawn,  the  bread  is  not  done,  but  if  free  from  dough  it  is  ready 
to  he  removed  from  the  oven.  The  little  projections  on  the  straw, 
where  the  branches  have  been  broken  off,  catch  and  bring  out  the 
dough,  when  not  thoroughly  baked.  Another  test  is  to  knock  on 
the  loaf  with  the  closed  hand  ; if  it  sounds  hollow,  the  bread  is  done, 
but  under-done  or  heavy  bread  will  give  forth  a dull  sound. 

As  a quantity  of  dough  to  begin  with  somewhat  reduces  the 
temperature  of  the  oven  at  first,  one  loaf  will  not  require  so  hot  an 
oven  as  four  or  five.  The  time  required  for  baking  is  not  less  than 
three-quarters  of  an  hour,  and  bread  baked  a full  hour  is  more 
wholesome  and  is  generally  considered  more  palatable.  If  bread  is 


16 


BREAD-MAKING. 


baked  in  the  French  roll  pan  it  does  not  require  so  long  a time,  as 
the  ‘‘rolls”  are  only  about  two  and  a half  to 
three  inches  deep  and  same  width,  being 
rounded  at  the  bottom.  They  are  very  nice  for 
slicing,  making  pretty  sized  pieces.  The  pans 
come  in  different  lengths,  eight,  twelve,  sixteen  and  twenty  inches. 
All  loaves  of  bread  of  whatever  shape,  and  biscuit,  rolls,  etc.,  are  much 
nicer  if  when  almost  baked  they  are  carefully  moved  out  on  oven 
shelf  and  brushed,  using  the  pastry  brush,  with 
„ „ , the  I^oll  Glaze,  which  is  two  yolks  beaten  with 

twice  their  bulk  in  water  and  half  teaspoon  sugar,  and  then  returned 
to  oven  till  done.  When  removed  from  the  oven,  take  the  loaves 
out  of  the  pan,  grease  the  entire  outer  crust  with  melted  butter,  and 
tilt  them  on  edge,  so  as  to  secure  a free  circulation  of  air.  It  is  bet- 
ter not  to  cover  bread  while  warm,  unless  with  a light  cloth  to  keep 
off  flies.  Thoroughly  exposed  to  the  air  the  surface  cools  frsf  in- 
suring a crisp  criist  and  the  retention  of  the  moisture  in  the  loaf. 
There  are  those,  however,  who  follow  successfully  the  plan  of  wrap- 
ping bread,  as  soon  as  it  is  removed  from  the  oven,  in  a coarse  towel 
or  bread-cloth.  Never  put  warm  bread  next  to  wood,  as  the  part  in 
contact  will  have  a bad  taste.  Spread  a cloth  over  the  table  before 
placing  the  bread  on  it ; or  have  an  oaken  board  for  the  purpose, 
covered  with  heavy  white  flannel,  and  over  this  spread  a fresh 
linen  bread-cloth,  and  lay  the  bread  on  it  right  side  up,  with  a thin 
covering  to  keep  off  flies,  placing  it  at  once  in  the  fresh  air  WHfljU/i 
to  cool ; but  the  “bread  cooler”  illustrated  on  page  20  is  ^ 

better  than  either  of  the  above  ways.  The  best  pan  for  RuSfSfS. 
bread,  and  many  prefer  it  for  cake,  is  made  of  Russia  iron  (which  is 
but  little  more  costly  than  tin  and  will  last  many  times  as  long), 
about  four  by  ten  inches  on  the  bottom,  flaring  to  the  top,  and 
about  four  and  one-half  inches  deep.  The  pan  should  be  greased 
very  lightly. 

If  by  accident  or  neglect  the  bread  is  baked  too  hard,  rub  the  loaf 
over  with  butter,  wet  a towel  and  wrap  it  in  it,  and  cover  with  another 
dry  towel.  In  winter,  bread  dough  may  be  kept  sweet  several  days 
by  placing  it  where  it  will  be  cold  without  freezing,  or  by  putting  it 
so  deep  into  the  flour  barrel  as  to  exclude  it  entirely  from  the  air. 
When  wanted  for  use,  make  into  bread,  or,  by  adding  the  proper  in- 
gredients, into  cake,  rusk,  biscuit,  apple  dumplings,  chicken  pie,  etc. 


BREAD-MAKING. 


17 


When  the  bread  is  cold,  place  in  a stone  jar  or  tin  box.  which 
must  be  thoroughly  washed,  scalded  and  dried  each  bak- 
ing day.  Another  good  receptacle  for  bread  is  a tin  wash- 
boiler  with  a close  cover,  kept  for  this  purpose  alone, 
but  a still  better  one  is  the  tin  box  with  shelves  as  illus- 
trated. When  small  single  loaf  pans  are  used,  the  bread 
may  be  removed  to  cool,  the  pans  washed  and  dried. 
Bread  & Cake  Box.  and  the  loaves  afterwards  replaced  each  in  its  pan,  and 
then  set  away  in  a box  or  boiler.  The  pan  helps  to  keep  the  bread 
moist  and  palatable  for  several  days. 


There  are  three  critical  points  in  the  process  of  bread-making : 
the  condition  of  the  yeast,  which  must  never  be  used  if  sour ; the 
temperature  where  the  bread  is  set  to  rise,  which  must  not  be  so  hot 
as  to  scald ; and  the  temperature  of  the  oven,  which  must  be  uni- 
form, neither  too  hot  nor  too  cold. 


In  cutting  warm  bread  for  the  table,  heat  the  knife,  and  whether 
hot  or  cold,  cut  only  as  much  as  will 
be  eaten.  It  is  better  to  replenish  the 
bread-plate  once  or  even  twice  during  a meal  than  to  have  sliceft 
left  over  to  dry  up  and  waste. 

AVhen  using  coal,  put  into  the  fire-box  enough  to  finish  the  bak- 
ing ; adding  more  during  the  process  is  apt  to  render  the  oven-heat 
irregular.  ■ When  wood  is  used,  make  a good  hot  fire,  see  that  the 
stove  has  a,  good,  free  draft,  and  let  it  cool  to  an  even,  steady  heai 
before  putting  the  bread  in  the  oven.  The  finest  bread  may  be  com 
pletely  spoiled  in  baking,  and  a freshly-made  fire  can  not  be  easily' 
regulated. 

Attention  to  neatness,  important  in  all  cookery,  is  doubly  im- 
portant in  bread-making.  Be  sure  that  the  hair  is  neatly  combed 
and  put  up  (which  ought  to  be  done  before  the  dress  is  put  on  in 
the  morning),  and  that  the  hands,  arms  and  finger-nails  are  scru- 
pulously clean.  A neat  calico  apron  with  bib,  using  safety  pins  in 
fastening,  and  sleeves  of  dress  well-tucked  up  and  fastened  so  that 
they  will  not  come  down,  add  much  to  the  comfort  in  this  the  most 
important  task  of  the  kitchen  queen. 

A great  advance  has  been  made  in  milling  during  the  past  few 
years,  the  flour  made  by  the  “New  Process,”  as  it  is  called,  being  much 
2 


Bread  Knife. 


18 


BREAD-MAKING. 


more  nutritious  than  the  old-fashioned  white  flour,  which  contained 
very  little  of  the  gluten  of  the  wheat.  The  “New  Process”  flour 
made  at  the  great  Minneapolis  mills  from  the  hard  spring  wheat 
grown  in  the  North vrest,  brings  the  highest  price  of  any  flour  in  the 
market  and  is  the  strongest  and  best.  Another  flour  known  as  the 
Whole  Wheat  Flour  is  excellent  for  bread-making  and  is  reduced  as 
is  claimed  by  a secret  process.  It  is  made  into  bread  by  the  same 
recipes  as  white  flour.  Many  preparations  of  wheat  and  grain  are  sold 
by  grocers  which  are  prepared  by  some  special  process,  and  are 
excellent  in  their  way,  though  more  expensive  than  the  plain  flour. 
Among  these  are  the  Health  Food.  Granula  and  various  prepara- 
tions of  the  kind.  Graham  is  often  made  from  the  poorest  wheat, 
but  some  mills,  like  Readshaw’s  at  Dansville,  New  York,  make  a 
specialty  of  Graham,  cracked  wheat,  and  rye  flour,  and  corn  meal 
from  selected  grain,  and  furnish  a choice  article  which  is  much  more 
wholesome  and  just  as  cheap  as  the  inferior  article.  Cerealine,  a 
\aew  preparation,  is  a flaky  substance,  the  product  of  white  Indian 
corn,  readily  soluble,  easily  digested,  and  containing  a large  pro- 
portion of  nitrogenous  matter.  A valuable  peculiarity  of  this  pro- 
duct is  that  it  can  not  be  prepared  from  unsound  grain. 
It  is  certainly  the  highest  and  most  scientific  product  of  corn 
that  has  been  introduced  for  public  consideration,  and  is  sometimes 
called  Shredded  Maize.  It  somewhat  resembles  cocoanut,  only  it  is 
in  small  flakes,  but  when  sprinkled  on  cake  has  quite  the  appear- 
ance of  cocoanut.  Griddle  cakes,  muffins,  bread,  breakfast  rolls  and 
sweet  puddings  are  delicious  made  of  it,  and  in  fact  it  can  enter  into 
the  preparing  of  any  recipe  where  flour  is  used,  using  generally  half 
cerealine  and  half  flour. 

There  is  also  a brown-bread  preparation,  recently  introduced, 
which  saves  much  of  the  difficult  details  necessary  to  make  this  ex- 
cellent Boston  dish ; and  when  two  boiled  potatoes  are  rubbed 
through  a sieve,  thinned  with  nearly  a pint  of  water  and  then  the 
meals  added,  or  the  directions  with  package  as  above  followed,  the 
bread  is  simply  perfect.  For  fuller  directions  in  regard  to  flours, 
etc.,  see  Marketing. 

GRAHAM  AND  CORN  BREAD. 

It  is  very  desirable  that  every  family  should  have 
a constant  supply  of  bread  made  of  unbolted  flour,  or  rye 
and  Indian  corn.  Most  persons  find  it  palatable, and  it  promotes 


BREAD-MAKING. 


19 


health.  For  these  coarse  breads  always  add  a little  brown  sugar  o.\ 
molasses,  and  the  amount  given  in  the  recipes  may  be  increased  ac.t 
cording  to  taste.  They  rise  quicker  and  in  a less  warm  atmosphere 
than  without  sweetening.  A little  lard  or  butter  improves  bread  or 
cakes  made  of  Graham  or  Indian  meal,  rendering  them  light  and 
tender.  Graham  rises  rather  more  quickly  than  fine  flour  (as  the^ 
whole  wheat  flour  contains  a larger  proportion  of  gluten,  and  fermen- 
tation is  more  rapid),  and  should  not  be  allowed  to  rise  quite  as 
light.  The  pans  should  be  greased  more  thoroughly  for  Graham  and 
corn  bread  than  for  that  made  from  fine  flour.  The  fire 
should  be  steady  and  sufficient  to  complete  the.baking,  and  the  oven 
hot  when  the  bread  is  put  in.  A fresh  blaze  will  burn  the  crust, 
while  a steady  fire  will  sweeten  it.  Graham  bread  bakes  more  slowly 
than  fine-flour  bread,  and  corn  bread  requires  more  time  and  a hotter 
oven  than  either.  Use  either  yellow  or  white  corn,  ground  coarse, 
for  mush,  and  Avhite,  ground  fine,  for  bread,  etc.  In  cutting  the  lat- 
ter while  warm,  heat  the  knife,  and  hold  it  perpendicularly.  Rye  is 
said  to  absorb  more  moisture  from  the  air  than  any  other  grain ; 
hence,  all  bread  from  this  meal  needs  a longer  application  of  heat, 
and  keeps  moister  after  being  baked  than  that  made  from  other  grain. 
Rye  meal  is  much  better  thanrye  flour  for  making  all  kinds  of  bread 
and  muffins,  but  the  meal,  like  the  old  fashioned  corn  or  Indian 
meal,  grows  musty  in  a short  time  in  hot  weather,  so  that  but  a small 
quantity  should  be  bought  at  a time. 

In  most  families  there  is  a large  amount  of  corn  or  Indian  meal 
used,  but  the  quajitity  purchased  at  a time  depends  upon  the  kind 
of  meal  selected.  The  common  kind,  which  is  made  by  grinding 
between  two  mill-stones,  retains  a great  deal  of  moisture,  and,  in 
hot  weather,  will  soon  grow  musty ; but  the  granulated  meal  will 
keep  for  any  length  of  time.  The  corn  for  this  meal  is  first  dried ; 
and  it  takes  about  two  years  for  this.  Then  the  outer  husks  are  re- 
moved, and  the  corn  is  ground  by  a process  that  produces  grains 
like  granulated  sugar.  After  once  using  this  meal  one  will  not  will- 
ingly go  back  to  the  old  kind.  Indian  meal  is  made  from  two  kinds 
of  corn,  Northern  and  Southern.  The  former  gives  the  yellow  meal, 
and  is  much  richer  than  the  Southern,  of  which  white  meal  is  made. 
All  steamed  brown  breads  are  better  when  put  to  steam  over  cold 
water  which  is  then  brought  to  boiling  point  and  kept  constantly 
boiling  until  the  bread  is  done.  Sweet  milk  may  be  used  in  place  of 


20 


BREAD-MAKING, 


sour,  and  vice  versa^  remembering  that  the  proportions  are  one  level 
teaspoon  soda  to  one  pint  sour  milk,  and  with  sweet  milk  two  heap- 
ing teaspoons  baking  powder,  or  two  teaspoons  cream  tartar  and  one 
of  soda,  to  one  quart  flour. 


Sponge  for  Winter  Use. — Peel  and  boil  four  or  five  medium 
sized  potatoes  in  two  quarts  water  (which  will  boil  down  tq/ one 
quart  by  the  time  the  potatoes  are  cooked) ; when  done,  take  out  and 
press  through  a colander,  on  mash  very  fine  in  the  crock  in  which 
the  sponge  is  to  be  made ; make  a well  in  the  center,  into  which  put 
one  cup  flour,  and  pour  over  it  the  boiling  water  from  the  potatoes ; 
stir  thoroughly,  and  when  cool  add  a pint  of  tepid  water,  flour  enough 
to  make  a thin  batter,  and  one  cup  yeast.  This  sponge  makes  very 
inoist  bread. 

Bread  Sponge  and  Bread. — Six  potatoes  boiled  and  mashed 
while  hot,  two  tablespoons  each  white  sugar  and  butter,  one  quart 
tepid  water ; into  this  stir  three  cups  flour ; beat  to  a smooth  batter, 
add  six  tablespoons  yeast;  set  overnight,  and  in  the  morning 
knead  in  sufficient  flour  to  make  a stiff,  spongy  dough ; knead  vig- 
orously for  fifteen  minutes,  set  away  to  rise,  and  when  light  knead 
for  ten  minutes ; mold  out  into  moderate-sized  loaves,  and  let  rise 
until  they  are  like  delicate  or  sponge-cake. 

Bread  Sponge  and  Bread.  — Five  pints  warm  water,  five  quarts 
sifted  flour,  one  coffee-cup  yeast ; mix  in  a two-gallon  stone  jar,  cover 
closely,  and  set  in  a large  tin  pan,  so  that  if  the  sponge  rises  over 
the  top  of  the  jar  the  drippings  may  fall  into  the  pan.  Set  to  rise 
the  evening  before  baking.  In  the  winter  be  careful  to  set  in  a warm 
place.  In  the  morning  sift  six  quarts  flour  into  a pail,  pour  the 
sponge  into  a bread-pan  or  bowl,  add  two  tablespoons  salt,  then 
the  flour  gradually ; mix  and  knead  well,  using  up  nearly  all  the 
flour.  This  first  kneading  is  the  most  important,  and  should  occupy 
at  least  twenty  minutes.  Make  the  bread  in  one  large  loaf,  set  away 
in  a warm  place,  and  cover  with  a cloth.  It  ought  to  rise  in  half  an 
hour,  when  it  should  be  kneaded  thoroughly  again  for  ten  minutes. 
Then  take  enough  dough  for  three  good-sized  loaves  (a  quart  bowl 

of  dough  to  each),  give  five 
minutes’  kneading  to  each  loaf, 
and  place  to  rise  in  a dripping- 
pan  well  greased  with  lard. 
The  loaves  will  be  light  in  five 
or  ten  minutes,  and  will  bake 
in  a properly  heated  oven  in  half  an  hour.  Make  a well  in  the  cen- 
ter of  the  remaining  dough,  and  into  it  put  a half  tea-cup  of  white 
sugar,  one  tea-cup  of  lard,  and  two  eggs,  which  mix  thoroughly  with 


bread-making. 


. 21 


the  dough,  knead  into  one  large  loaf,  set  in  a warm  place  about 
fifteen  minutes  to  rise,  and,  when  light,  knead  five  minutes  and  let 
rise  again  for  about  ten  minutes,  when  it  should  be  light.  Take  out 
of  pan  and  knead  on  bread-board,  roll  about  an  inch  in  thickness, 
cut  out  with  a biscuit-cutter,  and  place  in  dripping-pan ; let  rise 
five  minutes  and^bake  twenty  minutes.  In  winter  more  time  must 
be  allowed  for  rising.  This  makes  three  loaves  and  ninety  biscuit. 

Bread. — Set  sponge  at  nine  o’clock  in  the  evening  in  summer, 
and  keep  it  in  a cool  place ; or  at  noon  and  make  it  up  in  the  even- 
ing. Do  not  keep  in  the  cellar  or  it  will  sour.  In  the  winter  set  it 
at  six  o’clock  at  night  and  place  where  it  will  keep  warm.  For  the 
sponge  use  one  yeast  cake  soaked  in  lukewarm  water,  three  potatoes 
boiled  and  mashed  fine  and  one  pint  flour.  Scald  with  the  boiling 
potato  water,  adding  the  yeast  after  the  mixture  has  become  cool, 
iind  mixing  to  a smooth  paste.  Add  a teaspoon  salt  and  beat  fifteen 
minutes.  When  the  sponge  foams  it  is  risen  sufficiently ; then  add 
a pint  warm  water  and  flour  to  make  a smooth  dough  that  will  not 
stick  to  the  fingers,  set  in  a warm  place,  and  when  full  of  cells  work 
in  all  the  flour  possible.  Let  it  rise  and  knead  until  the  gas  stops 
cracking.  Make  into  loaves,  let  rise,  and  increase  the  heat  of  the 
oven  after  the  first  twenty  minutes  of  baking. 

Apple  Bread. — To  make  bread  from  apples  or  other  fruits,  pare 
them,  put  them  over  the  fire  and  stew  them  tender,  adding  a little 
sugar  if  they  are  very  sour ; then  pulp  them  through  a sieve.  Use 
this  pulp  as  the  basis  of  bread ; mix  one  pound  of  fruit  pulp  with 
two  pounds  flour,  teaspoon  salt,  one  gill  liquid  yeast,  and  water 
enough  to  make  a soft  dough ; knead,  make  into  loaves,  let  rise  and 
bake  as  ordinary  bread.  Pears  and  other  fruits  may  also  be  used, 
the  fact  being  remembered  that  the  juice  of  fruit  must  not  be  ex- 
tracted, but  must  be  allowed  to  replace  water  or  milk  in  making  the 
bread.  Fruit  breads  should  be  eaten  with  some  precaution,  as  their 
action  may  be  laxative ; in  this  connection  it  may  be  well  to  give  a 
good  recipe  for  a harmless  vegetable  bread  of  the  same  nature. 

Bean  Bread. — The  use  of  potatoes  in  bread  is  well  known,  but 
not  so  the  fact  that  beans,  parsnips,  carrots,  turnips,  beets  and  sweet 
potatoes  may  be  employed  either  for  purposes  of  variety  or  economy ; 
any  of  these  vegetables  may  be  used  after  being  boiled  and  reduced 
to  a puree.,  or  pulp,  according  to  the  directions  given  above,  care  be- 
ing taked  to  extract  their  moisture  by  rolling  the  puree  lengthwise 
in  a strong  towel,  and  then  squeezing  it  as  dry  as  possible  by  having 
the  ends  of  the  towel  twisted  tight  by  two  persons. 

Bread  with  Buttermilk. — The  evening  before  baking,  bring  to 
the  boiling  point  two  quarts  buttermilk  (or  boil  sour  milk  and 
take  the  same  quantity  of  the  whey),  and  pour  into  a crock  in  which 


^2 


BREAD-MAKING. 


a scant  tea-cup  sifted  flour  has  been  placed.  Let  stand  till  suffi- 
ciently cool,  then  add  half  a cup  of  yeast,  and  flour  to  make  a thick 
batter ; the  better  and  longer  the  sponge  is  stirred  the  whiter  will  be 
the  bread.  In  the  morning  sift  the  flour  into  the  bread-pan,  pour 
the  sponge  in  the  center,  stir  in  some'  of  the  flour,  and  let  stand  until 
after  breakfast;  then  mix,  kneading  for  about  half  an  hour,  the 
longer  the  better ; when  light,  mold  into  loaves,  this  time  kneading 
as  little  as  possible.  The  secret  of  good  bread  is  having  good  yeast, 
and  not  baking  too  hard.  This  makes  four  loaves  and  forty  biscuit. 

Hoff-  Yeast  Bread. — One  tea-cup  yeast,  three  pints  warm  water ; 
make  a thin  sponge  at  tea  time,  cover  and  let  it  remain  two  hours  or 
until  very  light.  By  adding  the  water  to  the  flour  first  and  having 
the  sponge  quite  warm,  it  is  never  necessary  to  put  the  sponge  over 
hot  water  or  in  an  oven  to  make  it  rise.  Knead  into  a loaf  before 
going  to  bed ; in  the  morning  mold  into  three  loaves,  spreading  a 
little  lard  between  as  they  are  put  in  the  pan.  When  light,  bake  one 
hour,  having  oven  quite  hot  when  the  bread  is  put  in,  and  very  mod- 
erate when  it  is  done.  (Bread  made  in  this  way  is  never  sour  or 
heavy.)  To  have  fine,  light  biscuit,  add  shortening  at  night,  and  in 
the  morning  make  into  biscuit  and  bake  for  breakfast.  By  this  re- 
cipe bread  is  baked  before  the  stove  is  cold  from  breakfast,  and  out 
of  the  way  for  other  baking. 

Bread  luitJi  Potato  Sponge. — Pare  and  boil  four  or  five  potatoes, 
mash  fine,  and  add  one  pint  flour ; pour  on  the  mixture  first  boil- 
ing water  enough  to  moisten  well,  then  about  one  quart  cold  water, 
after  which  add  flour  enough  to  make  stiff  batter.  When  cooled  to 
“scarcely  milk-warm,”  put  in  one-half  pint  (or  more  will  do  no 
harm ) of  yeast,  and  let  it  stand  in  a warm  place  overnight ; in  the 
morning  add  to  this  sponge  one  cup  lard,  stir  in  flour,  and  knead 
well.  The  more  kneading  the  finer  and  whiter  the  bread  will  be ; 
pounding  also  with  a potato-masher  improves  the  bread  greatly,  and 
is  rather  easier  than  so  much  kneading.  When  quite  stiff  and  well 
worked  and  pounded,  let  it  rise  again,  and  when  light  make  into 
loaves  or  biscuit,  adding  no  more  flour  except  to  flour  the  hands  and 
board — merely  enough  to  prevent  the  bread  from  sticking.  Let  it 
rise  again,  then  bake ; and  immediately  after  taking  from  the  oven 
wrap  in  a wet  towel  until  partly  cold,  in  order  to  soften  the  crust.  If 
yeast  and  dour  are  good  {essentials  in  all  cases),  the  above  process 
will  make  good  bread. 

Poor-Man^s  Bread.  — One  pint  buttermilk  or  sour  milk,  one 
level  teaspoon  soda,  a pinch  of  salt,  and  flour  enough  to  make  as 
stiff  as  soda-biscuit  dough ; cut  into  three  pieces,  handle  as  little  as 
possible,  roll  an  inch  thick,  place  in  dripping-pan,  bake  twenty  or 
thirty  minutes  in  a hot  oven,  and  when  done  wrap  in  a bread  cloth. 
Eat  while  warm,  breaking  open  like  a biscuit.  Each  cake  will  bo 
about  the  size  of  a pie. 


BREAD-MAKING. 


25 


Bread  with  Potatoes. — To  one  quart  blood-warm  water  or 
milk  (if  milk  is  used,  it  must  first  be  scalded  and  then  cooled  to 
blood  heat),  take  two  quarts  sifted  flour  and  one  tea-cup  fresh  potato 
yeast.  Put  the  milk  or  water  into  a one-gallon  stone  crock  and  stir 
the  flour  gradually  into  it,  then  add  the  yeast,  beating  it  vigorously 
for  fifteen  minutes ; set  to  rise  in  a warm  place,  putting  the  crock  in 
a pan  (to  catch  the  drippings  if  it  should  run  over).  If  in  winter, 
mix  it  as  early  as  six  or  seven  o’clock  in  the  evening.  Cover  very 
closely  with  a clean  white  cloth,  with  a blanket  over  it,  kept  purpose- 
ly for  this  (the  cloths  for  bread  should  not  be  used  for  any  thing 
else).  In  the  morning,  sift  three  quarts  of  flour  into  the  bread-pan, 
setting  it  in  the  oven  for  a few  minutes  to  bring  it  to  the  same  tem- 
perature as  the  sponge.  Pare  six  medium-sized  potatoes,  and  boil 
them  in  three  pints  water ; when  thoroughly  cooked,  remove  the 
potatoes  and  pour  the  boiling  hot  water  (which  will  now  be  about 
one  quart)  over  the  flour,  stirring  it  with  a spoon.  Mash  the  pota- 
toes very  fine,  and  beat  them  as  if  for  the  table ; mix  them  in  the 
flour,  and  when  cooled  to  blood  heat  pour  in  the  sponge,  and  mix 
well.  Add  more  wetting  or  flour  if  needed,  rub  off  all  that  adheres 
to  the  sides  of  the  pan,  and  mix  with  the  dough,  kneading  it  from 
forty-five  minutes  to  one  hour;  then  place  the  pan  to  rise,  cover 
closely  with  the  cloth  and  blanket,  setting  it  where  there  is  no  draft 
(this  is  imperative).  When  it  has  risen  to  twice  its  size,  knead  down 
in  the  pan,  take  one  quart  of  dough  for  each  loaf,  knead  each  five 
minutes  with  quick,  elastic  movements,  grease  the  sides  of  the  loaves 
with  sweet,  melted  butter  if  two  or  more  are  placed  in  the  same  pan ; 
or  the  loaves  may  be  greased  all  over  lightly  before  placing  in  the 
pan,  a process  which  adds  much  to  the  sweetness  of  the  crust.  The 
pan  should  be  thoroughly  but  lightly  greased.  Let  rise  until  as  large 
again  as  when  molded,  then  bake.  Have  your  oven  moderately 
heated  at  first,  with  a fire  in  the  stove  that  will  keep  it  of  a uniform 
temperature.  (For  manner  of  testing  oven,  see  general  instructions 
for  bread-making).  Bake  from  three-quarters  of  an  hour  to  one 
hour  and  a quarter,  according  to  the  size  of  the  loaves,  during  which 
time  the  bread  should  be  carefully  watched  to  see  that  the  proper  de- 
gree of  heat  is  steadily  kept  up.  Before  browning  they  will  have 
risen  to  double  their  size  when  placed  in  the  oven.  The  heat  of  the 
oven  is  all  important,  for  if  too  hot  the  loaves  will  not  rise  suffi- 
ciently ; if  too  cold  they  will  rise  too  much,  and  the  bread  will  be 
coarse  and  porous.  When  done,  place  on  side,  and  cool  without 
covering.  Never  use  flour  without  sifting,  as  sifting  enlivens  and 
aerates  the  floor,  and  makes  both  mixing  and  rising  easier  and  quick- 
er. Quick  rising  makes  whiter  bread,  and  it  is  very  necessary  that 
in  all  its  different  risings  bread  should  be  mixed  as  soon  as  ready. 

Bread  Raised  Once. — No  other  yeast  is  made  with  so  little 
trouble  as  potato  yeast.  Bread  made  from  it  keeps  moist  longer,  and 


24 


BREAD-MAKING. 


there  is  no  danger  of  injuring  the  flavor  of  the  bread  by  using  too 
much.  When  plentifully  used,  a beautiful,  light,  sweet,  fine-grained 
bread  is  produced  by  only  one  rising,  thus  saving  not  only  time  and 
trouble,  but  also,  what  is  more  important,  the  sweet  flavor  and  nutri- 
tious qualities  which  greatly  suffer  by  the  second  fermentation,  almost 
universally  practiced.  When  this  fact  is  thoroughly  understood, 
every  one  will  appreciate  the  importance  of  checking  excessive  fer- 
mentation, during  which  decomposition  actually  takes  place,  and 
the  delicate,  foamy  loaves,  “yeasted  to  death,”  which  so  many  fam- 
ilies now  use  and  call  the  “ staff  of  life,”  will  give  place  to  the  sweet, 
substantial,  home-made  loaves,  such  as  our  good  mothers  and  grand- 
mothers kneaded  with  their  own  skilled  hands. 

Take  care  that  the  yeast  is  good  and  “ lively,”  for,  without  this, 
failure  is  certain.  To  make  three  loaves  of  bread,  warm  and  lightly 
grease  the  baking-pans,  sift  three  quarts  or  more  of  flour  into  the 
bread-pan,  press  down  the  middle,  and  into  it  put  two  small  table- 
spoons of  fine  salt ; pour  in  slowly  one  quart  of  milk-warm  water, 
constantly  stirring  with  one  hand  in  the  flour,  until  a thin  batter  is 
formed ; add  a pint  or  more  of  potato  yeast  or  one  tea-cup  of  hop 
yeast,  or  one  yeast  cake  dissolved  in  warm  water,  or  a piece  of 
compressed  yeast  as  large  as  a walnut,  dissolved  in  the  same 
manner.  Mix  thoroughly,  adding  more  and  more  flour,  until  a 
stiff  dough  is  formed;  place  on  the  bread-board,  knead  vigor- 
ously for  twenty  minutes  or  more,  flouring  the  board  frequently 
to  prevent  the  dough  from  sticking  to  it,  divide  into  loaves  of  a size 
to  suit  pans,  mold  into  a comely  shape,  place  in  pans,  rub  over  the 
top  a light  coating  of  sweet,  drawn  butter,  set  in  a warm,  not  too  hot 
place  to  rise,  cover  lightly  to  keep  off  dust  and  air,  watch  and  oc- 
casionally turn  the  pans  around  when  necessary,  to  make  the  loaves 
rise  evenly ; when  risen  to  about  double  the  original  size,  draw  across 
the  top  of  each  lengthwise  with  a sharp  knife,  making  a slit  half  an 
inch  deep,  place  them  in  a moderately  heated  oven,  and  bake  one 
hour,  watching  carefully  from  time  to  time  to  make  certain  that  a 
proper  degree  of  heat  is  kept  up.  Before  browning  they  will  rise  to 
double  the  size  of  loaf  which  was  placed  in  the  oven,  and  pans  must 
be  provided  deep  enough  to  retain  them  in  shape.  Bake  until  weH. 
done  and  nicely  browned.  Nothing  adds  more  to  the  sweetness  and 
digestibility  of  wheaten  bread  than  thorough  baking.  When  done, 
remove  from  pans  immediately,  to  prevent  the  sweating  and  soft- 
ening of  the  crust. 

Bread  Raided  Twice. — Measure  out  four  quarts  sifted  flour, 
take  out  a pint  in  a cup,  and  place  remainder  in  a bread-pan.  Make 
a well  in  the  middle,  into  which  turn  one  tablespoon  sugar,  one  of 
salt,  and  one  cup  yeast;  then  mix  in  one  pint  milk  which  has 
been  made  blood-warm  by  adding  one  pint  boiling  water;  beat 
well  with  a strong  spoon,  add  one  tablespoon  lard,  knead  for  twenty 
to  thirty  minutes,  and  let  rise  overnight;  in  the  morning  knead 


BREAD-MAKING. 


25 


again  — slashing  the  dough  with  a sharp  knife  adds  to  its  lightness 
and  texture  — make  into  loaves,  let  them  rise  one  hour,  and  bake 
fifty  minutes.  Water  may  be  used  instead  of  the  pint  of  milk,  in 
which  case  use  twice  as  much  lard. 

Bread  Raised  Three  Times. — Begin  at  about  5 p.  m.,  plan  for 
six  loaves,  somewhat  larger  than  bakers’  loaves  ; take  two  little  cakes 
of  yeast,  put  them  into  a pint  of  tepid  water,  and  when  soft  beat 
in  thoroughly  enough  flour  to  make  a thick  batter,  and  put  in  a 
warm  place.  If  the  excellent  “ Farmer’s  Yeast,”  the  recipe  for  which 
is  given  hereafter,  is  used,  take  half  a tea-cup  and  stir  into  the  batter. 
A good  dish  for  this  purpose  is  a large  bowl,  a broad,  open  pitcher, 
or  a bright,  three-quart  tin  pail,  which  should  be  clean  in  the  strictest 
sense.  This  should  rise  in  about  two  hours,  and  when  nearly  light, 
take  six  or  eight  medium-sized  potatoes,  pare  neatly,  rinse  clean, 
and  boil  in  three  pints  of  water  till  well  done,  mash  very  fine  in  the 
water  while  hot.  Have  ready  a bread-pan  of  sifted  flour,  into  which 
put  a teaspoon  of  salt,  half  a cup  of  white  sugar  and  a bit  of  lard 
as  large  as  an  egg ; then  riddle  the  potato  mash,  hot  as  it  is,  through 
a sieve  or  fine  colander  into  the  flour,  and  stir  with  a kitchen  spoon 
into  a stiff  dough.  This  scalds  about  half  the  flour  used  in  the 
batch  of  bread.  This  mass  must  cool  till  it  will  not  scald  the  yeast., 
which  may  now  be  mixed  in  and  put  in  a warm,  not  hot,  place  for 
second  rising,  which  will  be  accomplished  by  morning,  when  the 
kneading  may  be  done.  Kneading  is  the  finest  point  of  bread-mak- 
ing, and  contains  more  of  the  art  than  any  other ; it  requires  skill, 
time,  patience  and  hard  work.  Work  in  flour  no  faster  than  is  re- 
quired to  allow  thorough  kneading,  which  can  not  be  done  in  less 
than  forty-five  minutes,  but  should  not  be  worked  much  over  an 
hour ; one  hour  is  a good  uniform  rule.  The  mechanical  bakers 
use  sets  of  rollers  driven  by  steam  power,  between  which  the  dough 
is  passed,  coming  out  a sheet  an  inch  thick ; it  is  folded  together 
several  times  and  rolled  again  and  again.  This  process  should  be 
imitated  somewhat  by  the  hands  in  the  family  kitchen.  The  work- 
ing of  the  dough  gives  grain  and  flakiness  to  the  bread.  The  dough 
when  kneaded  should  be  soft,  but  not  sticky — stiff  enough  to  retain 
its  roundness  on  the  board.  Put  back  into  the  pan  for  the  third  ris- 
ing, which  will  require  but  little  time,  and  when  light  cut  oft’  enough 
for  each  loaf  by  itself.  Knead  but  little,  and  put  into  the  baking- 
pans.  If  the  first  kneading  has  been  well  done,  no  more  flour  will 
be  needed  in  molding  into  loaves.  These  must  remain  in  the  baking 
pans  till  nearly  as  large  as  the  loaves  ought  to  be,  when  they  may 
be  put  into  a well  heated  oven.  If  the  oven  is  a trifle  too  hot,  or  if 
it  tends  to  hake  hard  on  the  top,  a piece  of  brown  paper  may  be  put 
over  the  loaves  (save  some  clean  grocer’s  paper  for  this  purpose), 
and  from  forty  to  sixty  minutes  Avill  bake  it  thoroughly.  After  the 
loaves  are  put  into  the  baking-pans,  avoid  jarring  them,  as  it  will 
make  portions  of  them  heavy. 


26 


BREAD-MAKING. 


If  the  yeast  is  “ set  ” at  5 p.  m.  the  bread  will  be  ready  for  dinner 
next  day  ; if  in  the  morning,  the  baking  will  he  done  early  in  the 
evening,  or  twelve  hours  after,  with  fair  temperature  and  good  yeast. 
Bread  made  in  this  way  will  be  good  for  a week,  and  with  fair 
weather  and  careful  keeping,  even  two  weeks.  When  dr^,  a slice 
toasted  will  be  as  crisp,  sweet  and  granular  as  Yankee  ginger-bread. 

Bread  Making  Made  Easy. — This  quantity  is  for  eight  loaves 
but  may  be  varied  at  pleasure.  Three  quarts  warm  water,  in  which 
melt  a lump  of  butter  the  size  of  a hen’s  egg.  Stir  in  flour  sufficient 
to  make  a smooth,  thick  batter.  Then  add  a bowlful  of  yeast  which 
must  be  well  stirred  in.  Now  with  the  hands  knead  in  more  flour 
until  the  dough  is  firm,  smooth  and  elastic,  and  will  not  adhere  to 
the  hands.  Cover  closely  and  set  in  a warm  place  overnight.  You 
cannot  be  too  careful  in  keeping  the  cold  air  from  it,  for  if  once 
chilled  the  bread  will  not  be  so  light  and  sweet.  Next  morning  the 
dough  will  be  as  light  as  a foam,  and  before  it  begins  to  subside  take 
out  on  bread-board  and  chop  with  a chopping  knife  for  five  minutes 
or  even  less  will  do.  It  will  scarcely  be  necessary  to  add  any  more 
flour.  Mold  into  loaves  and  when  light,  bake.  It  will  be  seen  that 
this  requires  but  two  risings,  thereby  retaining  much  of  the  sweetness 
of  the  flour  which  passes  off  in  fermentation.  Set  the  sponge  at  8 
o’clock  in  the  evening,  and  chop  and  mold  into  loaves  before  break- 
fast next  morning,  and  by  the  time  breakfast  is  over  it  is  light 
enough  for  the  oven. 

Bread  in  Summer  or  Winter. — In  summer  take  three  pints  of 
cold  or  tepid  water,  four  tablespoons  yeast,  one  teaspoon  salt ; 
stir  in  flour  enough  to  make  a thick  sponge  (rather  thicker  than 
griddle-cakes).  Let  stand  until  morning,  then  add  more  flour,  mix 
stiff  and  knead  ten  minutes  ; place  in  a pan,  let  rise  until  light,  knead 
for  another  ten  minutes  ; mold  into  four  loaves  and  set  to  rise,  but 
do  not  let  it  get  too  light ; bake  in  a moderate  oven  one  hour.  If 
bread  is  mixed  at  six  o’clock  in  the  morning  the  baking  ought  to  be 
done  by  ten  o’clock. 

In  winter  take  one  pint  of  buttermilk  or  clabbered  milk,  let  it 
scald  (not  boil)  ; make  a well  in  the  center  of  the  flour,  into  it  turn 
the  hot  milk,  add  one  teaspoon  salt,  enough  flour  and  water  to 
make  sufficient  sponge,  and  one  tea-cup  of  yeast ; let  stand  until 
morning  and  then  prepare  the  bread  as  in  summer.  This  is  more 
convenient  to  make  in  winter,  since  a hot  fire  is  needed  to  heat  the 
milk. 

Bread  with  Compressed  Yeast. — When  it  is  possible  to  obtain 
fresh  compressed  yeast,  also  called  German  yeast,  an  excellent  bread 
can  be  made  in  about  two  hours  and  a half ; the  rapidity  of  the 
leavening  or  “ raising  ” the  dough  is  advantageous,  because  less  of 
the  nutritive  elements  of  the  flour  are  lost  tlian  by  following  the 
long  process ; for  two  loaves  of  bread  use  three  pounds  of  flour, 


BREAD-MAKING. 


27 


about  a quart  of  water,  two  teaspoons  salt,  and  an  ounce  of  fresh 
compressed  yeast ; dissolve  the  yeast  in  a pint  of  lukewarm  water ; 
stir  in  sufficient  flour  to  make  a thick  hatter  or  sponge,  cover  with  a 
folded  towel,  and  set  it  in  a warm  place  to  rise ; if  properly  covered 
and  heated  it  will  rise  to  a light  foam  in  about  half  an  hour ; then 
stir  into  it  the  salt,  dissolved  in  a little  warm  water ; add  the  rest  of 
the  flour  and  sufficient  lukewarm  water  to  make  a dough  stiff  enough 
to  knead  knead  it  five  minutes ; divide  it  into  two  loaves,  put  them 
into  buttered  baking-pans,  cover  them  with  a folded  towel,  and  set , 
them  in  a warm  place  to  rise  twice  their  height ; then  bake  them  as 
directed  in  the  preceding  recipe  for  raised  bread.  In  raising  the 
sponge  be  sure  that  the  heat  is  not  sufficient  to  '^scald”  or  harden  it, 
as  that  will  prevent  fermentation ; therefore  do  not  place  it  where 
the  hand  can  not  be  held  with  comfort ; keep  it  covered  from  drauglits. 
If,  when  it  is  light,  it  has  become  at  all  soured,  as  it  sometimes  will 
in  summer,  stir  into  it  before  adding  the  balance  of  the  flour  a salt- 
spoon  baking-soda,,  dissolved  in  a very  little  luke-warm  water. 

The  dough  made  for  home-made  bread  can  be  baked  as  raised 
biscuit ; and  it  can  be  made  a little  sweeter  by  kneading  in  with  it 
a tablespoon  each  of  sugar  and  melted  butter ; or  it  can  be  boiled  in 
soups  and  stews  as  raised  dumplings. 

To  test  the,  heat  of  the  oven  follow  this'method  : The  “moderate 
oven”  temperature  is  that  degree  of  heat  which  will  turn  ordinary 
writing-paper  dark  yellow  or  buff,  that  is  the  color  of  kindling-wood ; 
put  a sheet  of  paper  in  the  oven  and  close  the  door ; if  the  paper 
blazes  the  oven  is  too  hot ; arrange  the  dampers  to  lower  the  heat 
for  ten  minutes;  then  again  test  it  with  more  paper;  it  may  be 
necessary  to  try  the  temperature  several  times,  but  the  time  thus 
used  is  well  spent.  Another  simple  way  of  testing  the  heat  of  the 
oven  is  to  hold  the  hand  in  it  after  it  has  been  closed  for  some  time ; 
if  the  hand  can  be  held  there  without  burning  for  quarter  of  a min- 
ute the  heat  is  good. 

Quick  Bread. — Peel  ten  potatoes,  boil,  drain,  saving  water,  and 
mash  thoroughly ; add  three  tablespoons  each  sugar  and  salt,  three 
of  flour  scalded  in  half  pint  water ; mix  and  add  a quart  of  the 
boiling  potato-water,  also  five  quarts  tepid  water  and  a cup  of  soft 
yeast.  Put  in  a warm  place  till  it  foams  nicely,  then  put  away  to 
cool.  When  thoroughly  cold.,  seal  or  cork  tightly  and  put  in  a cool 
place.  To  make  the  bread,  sift  flour  in  pan  for  number  of  loaves  re- 
quired and  wet  it  with  some  of  the  above  prejiared  rising,  vmrm,ed, 
(A^ery  important)  and  notJihig  else ; Avhen  Avell  mixed  mold  into  loaves 
and  put  in  a warm  place  to  rise ; if  directions  are  strictly  followed, 
bread  Avill  be  light  in  two  hours.  Bake  an  hour,  and  thus  in  three  hours 
perfect  bread  can  be  made  and  baked.  By  adding  to  part  of  the 
dough  when  mixed  for  the  loaves,  half  teacup  lard  or  butter,  one  egg 
and  three  tablespoons  sugar,  let  rise  and  then  make  into  biscuit,  let 
rise  again  and  bake,  taking  for  all  an  hour  and  a half  more — this 


28 


BREAD-MAKING. 


gives  biscuits  or  rolls  in  less  than  four  hours,  as  soon  as  with  com- 
pressed yeast,  with  the  advantage  of  the  rising  being  home-made. 
This  comes  strongly  endorsed  by  an  experienced  bread  baker. 

Salt-Rising^  Bread. — The  leaven  for  this  bread  is  prepared 
thus  : Take  a pint  of  warm  water — about  90° — (if  a little  too  hot 
defeat  is  certain)  in  a perfectly  clean  bowl  and  stir  up  a thick  bat- 
ter, adding  only  a teaspoon  of  salt : a thorough  beating  of  the  batter 
is  important.  Set  in  a pan  of  warm  water  to  secure  uniformity  of 
temperature,  and  in  two  to  four  hours  it  will  begin  to  rise.  The  ris- 
ing is  much  more  sure  if  coarse  flour  or  “ shorts  ” is  used  instead  of 
fine  flour. 

When  the  rising  ” is*  nearly  light  enough,  take  a pint  of  milk 
and  a pint  of  boiling  water,  (a  tablespoon  of  lime  water  added  is 
good  and  often  prevents  souring)  mix  the  sponge  in  the  bread-pan, 
and  when  cooled  to  al)out  milk-warm,  stir  in  the  rising.  The  sponge 
thus  made  will  be  light  in  two  to  four  hours,  with  good  warmth.  The 
dough  requires  less  kneading  than  yeast-raised  dough.  The  bread  is 
simpler,  but  not  so  certain  of  rising,  and  you  leave  out  all  the  ingre- 
dients save  the  flour,  water  (milk  is  not  essential),  and  a pinch  of 
salt.  It  should  be  made  more  frequently  as  it  dries  faster  than  bread 
containing  potatoes. 

Another  Salt-Rising  Bread. — In  summer  take  at  night  one 
(scant)  pint  of  new  milk,  half  as  much  hot  water,  which  will  make 
the  whole  lukewarm,  a teaspoon  salt,  one  of  sugar  and  a very  little 
soda.  Mix  all  in  a nice,  sweet  pitcher  (it  must  be  perfectly  clean 
and  sweet),  stir  in  one  tablespoon  of  corn  meal  and  add  flour 
enough  to  make  a medium  batter ; or,  use  the  lightning  yeast 
given  hereafter,  or  stir  the  rising  as  recommended  above  with  “ mid- 
dlings ” or  shorts,  leaving  out  the  soda  and,  sugar ; stir  well,  place 
the  pitcher  in  an  iron  kettle  with  quite  warm  water,  using  so  much 
water  that  the  pitcher  will  barely  rest  on  the  bottom  of  the  kettle ; 
cover  closely  and  leave  all  night  (on  the  stove  if  the  fire  is  nearly 
out)  where  it  will  be  kept  warm,  not  hot,  for  an  hour  or  two.  A 
quart  pitcher  should  be  full  in  the  morning ; if  not,  add  a spoon  of 
flour,  stir  well,  warm  the  water  in  the  kettle,  replace  the  pitcher, 
cover,  and  keep  it  warm  until  light.  Have  ready  two  quarts  of  sifted 
flour  in  a pan,  make  a hole  in  the  center,  put  in  an  even  teaspoon 
of  salt,  a tea-cup  of  nearly  boiling  water ; add  one  pint  of  new  milk, 
jind  stir  a batter  there  in  the  center  of  the  flour,  add  the  “ empty- 
ings ” from  the  pitcher  and  stir  well  (there  will  be  a good  deal  of 
flour  all  round  the  batter,  and  the  top  should  be  well  sprinkled  with 
flour)  ; cover  with  another  pan,  keep  warm  until  light — it  will  rise  in 
an  hour  or  even  less,  the  batter  showing  through  cracks  in  the  flour 
— when  it  should  be  loell  and  quickly  kneaded.,  and  made  directly 
into  loaves,  which  place  in  the  baking-pans,  keep  well  covered  and 
warm  until  light,  when  it  is  ready  to  bake.  If  left  standing  too  long 


BREAD-MAKING. 


29 


an  unpleasant  odor  rises.  The  secret  of  success  is  to  keep  it  warm 
but  not  at  all  hot.  This  bread  is  good  if  no  milk  is  used  ; indeed, 
some  prefer  it  made  with  water  alone  instead  of  milk  and  water.  In 
cold  weather,  if  kitchen  is  cold  at  night,  do  not  set  “ emptyings  ” 
over  night,  but  make  early  in  the  morning. 

Sweet  Potato  Bread. — Boil  three  large  sweet  potatoes,  peel  and 
mash  them  through  a colander  with  a potato-masher,  adding  tea- 
spoon salt  and  tablespoon  butter ; after  they  have  been  mashed,  mix 
with  them  one  cup  and  a half  corn  meal,  a scant  cup  milk,  and  one 
egg  beaten  smooth ; pour  batter  into  a buttered  baking-pan,  and  bake 
in  a moderate  oven  twenty  minutes.  Use  the  bread  hot  with  plenty 
of  butter. 

Boston  Brown  Bread. — One  heaping  coffee-cup  each  of  corn, 
rye  and  Graham  meal.  The  rye  meal  should  be  as  fine  as  the  Gra- 
ham, or  rye  flour  may  be  used.  Silt  the  three  kinds  together  as 
closely  as  possible,  and  beat  together  thoroughly  with  two  cups  New 
Orleans  or  Porto  Rico  molasses,  two  cups  sweet  milk,  one  cup  sour 
milk,  one  dessert-spoon  soda,  one  teaspoon  salt ; pour  into  a tin 
form,  place  in  a kettle  of  cold  water,  put  on  and  boil  four  hours. 
Put  on  to  cook  as  soon  as  mixed.  It  may  appear  to  be  too  thin,  but, 
it  is  not,  as  this  recipe  has  never  been  known  to 
fail.  Serve  warm,  with  baked  beans  or  Thanks- 
giving turkey.  The  bread  should  not  quite  fill  the 
form  (or  a tin  pail  with  cover  will  answer),  as 
it  must  have  room  to  swell.  See  that  the  water 
does  not  boil  up  to  the  top  of  the  form ; also 
take  care  it  does  not  boil  entirely  away  or  stop 
boiling.  To  serve  it,  remove  the  lid  and  set  it  a 
few  moments  into  the  open  oven  to  dry  the  top, 
and  it  will  then  turn  out  in  perfect  shape.  This  bread  can  be  used 
as  a pudding,  and  served  with  a sauce  made  of  thick  sour  cream,  well 
sweetened  and  seasoned  with  nutmeg ; or  it  is  good  toasted  the  next 
day. 

Boston  Brown  Bread. — Boil  and  mash  fine  six  potatoes  and 
make  into  a sponge  with  one  cup  yeast,  three  cups  flour  and  one 
quart  warm  water,  adding  two  tablespoons  eaeli  of  lard  and  brown 
sugar.  When  light,  sift  into  the  bread  tray  two  quarts  Indian  meal, 
one  quart  rye  or  Avheat  flour  and  one  tables] )oon  each  of  soda  and 
salt.  Pour  the  risen  sponge  into  this  and  mix,  adding  warm  water 
if  needed,  and  work  in  gradually  a half  cup  molasses.  Knead  well 
and  let  rise  six  or  seven  hours,  knead  again,  make  into  loaves,  let 
rise  one  hour  and  bake  in  moderate  oven. 

Eastern  Brown  Bread. — One  pint  each  of  rye  or  Graham  and 
Indian  meal,  one  cup  molasses,  three-fourths  cup  sour  milk,  one  and 
one-half  teaspoons  soda,  one  and  one-half  pints  cold  water.  Put  on 
stove  over  cold  water,  steam  b.onrs  and  brown  over  in  the  oven. 


30 


BREAD-MAKING. 


Brown  Bread. — Two  and  one-half  cups  sour  milk,  and  one-half 
cup  molasses ; into  these  put  one  heaping  teaspoon  soda,  two  cups 
corn  meal,  one  cup  Graham  flour  and  one  teaspoon  salt  Use  cofiee 
cups.  Steam  three  hours,  and  afterwards  brown  in  oven 

Brown  Bread  with  Baking  Powder. — One  and  a fourth  cups 
sweet  milk,  one  cup  each  corn  meal  and  Graham,  one-half  cup  mo- 
lasses, two  heaping  teaspoons  baking  powder,  or  use  sour  milk  and 
soda.  Measure  in  coffee-cups.  Steam  three  or  four  hours.  Can  be 
made  on  Saturday  and  re-steamed  for  Sunday  morning  breakfast. 

Brown  Bread  with  Mush. — Pour  two  quarts  hot  corn  meal  mush, 
made  as  for  eating,  over  two  quarts  Graham  flour  (wheat  may  be 
used)  ; when  cool  add  three  pints  sponge,  one  coffee-cup  molasses, 
teaspoon  salt,  half  teaspoon  soda ; mix  well  together  with  a spoon 
or  the  hands,  add  one  quart  flour,  to  make  it  a stiif  batter,  and 
place  in  small  bread  pans  ( such  as  are  described  in  the  preceding 
preface  on  baking  bread),  Ailing  them  a little  more  than  half  full  and 
smoothing  over  with  a spoon  dipped  in  water.  Let  rise  till  there  is 
a seam  or  crack  in  the  loaf,  then  bake  in  a moderate  oven ; when 
done,  rub  over  with  butter,  place  on  the  side,  wrap  in  a cloth,  and 
when  cold  put  in  a jar  or  box. 

Boston  Corn  Bread. — One  cup  sweet  milk,  two  cups  sour  milk, 
two-thirds  cup  molasses,  one  cup  flour,  four  cups  corn  meal,  two  tea- 
spoons soda;  steam  three  hours,  and  brown  a few  minutes  in  the 
oven. 

Boiled  Corn  Bread. — One  and  one-fourth  pints  each  of  sweet 
milk  and  buttermilk  or  sour  cream,  half  a pint  molasses,  one  tea- 
spoon soda,  three  teaspoons  cream  tartar,  one  even  tablespoon  salt, 
one  and  a fourth  pints  each  of  corn  meal  and  flour ; sift  the  soda 
and  cream  tartar  in  the  flour ; mix  all  the  ingredients  thoroughly 
together  and  put  in  a buttered  tin  pail ; cover  closely,  place  in  a ket- 
tle two-thirds  full  of  boiling  water  : cover,  and  boil  steadily  for  three 
hours,  replenishing  when  needful  with  boiling  water.  To  be  eaten 
hot  with  butter. 

Corn  Bread.— -OnQ  pint  corn  meal  sifted,  one  pint  flour,  one 
pint  sour  milk,  two  eggs  beaten  light,  one-half  cup  sugar,  piece  of 
butter  size  of  an  egg ; add,  the  last  thing,  one  teaspoon  soda  in  a 
little  milk ; add  to  the  beaten  egg  the  milk  and  meal  alternately, 
then  the  butter  and  sugar.  If  sweet  milk  is  used,  add  one  teaspoon 
cream  tartar ; bake  twenty  minutes  in  a hot  oven. 

Steamed  Corn  Bread. — Two  and  one-half  cups  sour  milk, 
(butter-milk  if  you  have  it),  two  cups  corn  meal,  one  cup  flour, 
two  tablespoons  sugar,  one  teaspoon  soda,  one  tablespoon  salt,  two 
eggs,  put  in  a cake  pan  with  stem  in  center,  place  in  a steamer, 
and  steam  three  hours,  or  longer,  keep  closely  covered,  put  in  stove 


BREAD-MAKING. 


31 


fifteen  minutes  to  brown  before  sending  to  table ; set  in  a pan  of 
cold  water  a few  minutes  and  it  will  turn  out  nicely. 

Corn  Bread. — Take  one  quart  buttermilk  and  one  heaping  pint 
corn  meal,  one  teaspoon  soda,  one  of  salt,  one  tablespoon  sugar  and 
three  eggs ; have  the  stove  very  hot,  and  do  not  bake  in  too  deep  a 
pan.  The  batter  seems  too  thin,  but  bakes  very  nicely. 

The  Bread  of  Our  Forefathers. — Put  in  a pan  two  quarts  of 
meal,  a half-pint  of  flour,  stir  up  well ; pour  in  the  center  a pint  of 
boiling  water,  stir  up  enough  of  the  meal  to  make  a thin  batter ; 
when  cool,  put  in  a cup  of  yeast,  a teaspoon  of  salt  and  enough 
warm  water  to  make  a thick  batter ; let  rise,  then  place  in  a deep, 
well-greased  pan,  cover  with  another  pan,  and  place  in  a moderate 
oven.  When  nearly  done,  remove  the  cover,  and  bake  slowly  until 
done.  Excellent  when  cold. 

All  baking-pans  for  bread  should  be  made  with  covers,  made  of 
the  same  material,  and  high  enough  to  permit  tlie  bread  to  rise 
to  its  full  size.  If  pan  is  deep  enough  to  permit  the  bread  to  rise 
without  touching  it,  a flat  piece  of  tin  or  sheet-iron  will  answer  for 
the  coA^er,  or  a cover  may  be  made  of  paper,  or  another  pan  may  be 
inA^erted  OA^r  the  bread.  The  office  of  the  coA'Cr  is  to  preA^ent  the 
crust  from  broAvning  hard  before  the  expansion  of  the  gases  has 
made  the  bread  light  and  porous. 

Plain  Corn  Bread. — One  well-heaped  pint  corn  meal,  one  pint 
sour  or  buttermilk,  one  egg,  one  teaspoon  soda,  one  of  salt;  bake  in 
dripping  or  gem  pans.  If  preferred,  one  heaping  tablespoon  of 
sugar  may  be  added. 

Steamed  Corn  Bread. — Two  cups  each  of  corn  meal,  Graham 
flour  and  sour  milk,  two-thirds  cup  molasses,  one  teaspoon  soda ; 
steam  tAVo  hours  and  a half, 

Graham  Bread. — Take  a little  over  a quart  of  Avarm  water,  one" 
half  cup  broAvn  sugar  or  molasses,  one-fourth  cup  hop  yeast,  and 
one  and  one-half  teaspoons  salt ; thicken  the  water  with  unbolted 
flour  to  a thin  batter ; add  sugar,  salt  and  yeast,  and  stir  in  more 
flour  until  quite  stiff.  In  the  morning  add  a small  teaspoon  soda, 
and  flour  enough  to  make  the  batter  stiff  as  can  be  stirred  with  a 
spoon  ; put  it  into  pans  and  let  rise  again  ; then  bake  in  eA^en  oven, 
not  too  hot  at  first ; keep  warm  while  rising;  smooth  over  the  loaves 
with  a spoon  or  knife  dipped  in  water. 

Graham  Bread. — To  one  and  a half  pints  of  tepid  water  add 
one  heaping  teaspoon  of  salt  and  one-half  cup  of  sugar;  stir  in 
one-half  pint  or  more  of  the  sponge  made  of  white  flour,  as  in  re- 
cipe for  “ Bread  with  Potato  Yeast ;”  add  Graham  flour  until  almost 
too  stiff  to  stir  \ put  in  the  baking-pan  and  let  rise  v^ell,  which  will 


32 


BREAD-MAKING. 


take  about  two  hours,  bake  in  a moderate  oven,  and  when  done, 
wrap  m a wet  towel  until  cool.  Some  prefer  to  add  one  egg  and  a 
tablespoon  lard  or  butter. 

Graham  Bread. — Mix  smooth  two  quarts  Graham  flour  and 
quart  warm  water ; add  half  a cake  compressed  yeast  dissolved  in 
warm  water,  put  into  a deep  sheet  iron  bread  pan  and  when  light 
bake  one  hour.  The  dough  should  be  as  stiff  as  can  be  stirred  with 
a spoon. 


Graham  Bread  with  Baking  Three  cups  Graham 

flour,  one  teaspoon  salt,  two  teaspoons  baking  powder,  half  cup 
sugar  and  two  and  one-half  cups  sweet  milk,  or  use  half  milk  and 
halt  water.  Sift  the  flour  and  baking  powder  together  and  add 
milk,  salt  and  sugar  quickly.  Bake  in  rather  hot  oven  for  forty  or 
fifty  minutes,  protecting  with  thick  brown  paper  the  first  fifteen 
minutes. 

Graham  Bread  with  Soda. — Mix  one  cup  warm  water  with  two 
tablespoons  syrup,  one-half  teaspoon  soda  and  one  cup  white  flour. 
Stir  in  Graham  flour  with  a spoon  until 
stiff.  Set  in  a warm  ]')lace  one-half  hour  to 
rise  and  bake  one  and  one-fourth  hours. 

Graham  Bread,  Steamed. — Two  cups 
Graham,  two  cups  Indian  meal,  two  cups 
sweet  milk,  one  cup  sour  milk,  one  cuid  mo- 
lasses, one  teaspoon  soda,  a little  salt.  Steam 
two  hours  and  dry  a few  minutes  in  hot  oven. 


Pan  for  Steaming  Bread. 


Quick  Graham.  Bread. — One  and  a half  pints  sour  milk,  half 
cu])  New  Orleans  molasses,  a little  salt,  tvro  teaspoons  soda  dissolved 
in  a little  hot  water,  and  as  mueh  Graham  flour  as  can  be  stirred  in 
with  a spoon  ; pour  in  well-greased  pan,  put  in  oven  as  soon  as  mixed 
and  1)ake  ttvo  hours. 


Bye  Bread,  vntli  Soda. — Two  and  one-half  cups  sour  milk,  two- 
thirds  cup  molasses,  one  teaspoon  soda,  one-half  teaspoon  salt, 
two  cups  sifted  wheat  flour  and  three  and  one-half  cups  rye  meal — 
or  if  preferred  all  rye  may  be  used.  Bake  in  a loaf  or  gem  pans. 

Rye  and  Indian  Bread. — One  quart  of  j’ve  meal  or  rye  flour, 
two  quarts  of  Indian  meal,  scalded  (by  placing  in  a pan  and  pouring 
just  enough  boiling  water  over  it,  stirring  constantly  with  a spoon, 
to  merely  wet  it,  but  not  enough  to  make  it  into  a batter),  one-half 
teacup  molasses,  two  teaspoons  salt,  one  of  soda,  one  teacup  yeast ; 
make  as  stiff  as  can  be  stirred  with  a spoon,  mixing  with  warm  water, 
and  let  rise  all  night ; then  put  in  a large  pan,  smooth  the  top  with 
the  hand  dipped  in  cold  water,  let  it  stand  a short  time  and  bake  five 
or  six  hours.  If  put  in  the  oven  late  in  the  day,  let  it  remain  all 
night.  Graham  may  be  used  instead  of  rye  and  baked  as  above.  In 
the  olden  time  it  was  placed  in  kettle,  allowed  to  rise,  then  placed 
on  the  hearth  before  the  fire,  with  coals  on  top  of  lid,  and  baked. 


BREAD-MAKING. 


33 


Uye  Bread.— a sponge  of  one  quart  warm  water,  one  tea- 
cup yeast,  thickened  with  rye  flour ; put  in  warm  place  to  rise  over 
idgnt ; scald  one  pint  corn  meal ; when  cool  add  it  to  sponge,  and 
f/dd  rye  flour  till  thick  enough  to  knead,  knead  hut  little.,  let  rise, 
mold  into  loaves,  place  in  deep  pie-tins  or  small  pudding-pans,  let 
tise  and  bake ; or,  thicken  the  sponge  with  rye  flour,  and  proceed  as 
above.  Wheat  sponge  may  be  used  instead  of  rye. 

Rye  Bread. — Make  sponge  as  for  wheat  bread,  let  rise  over- 
night, then  mix  it  up  with  the  rye  flour  as  stiif  as  can  he  kneaded^ 
add  to  the  quantity  for  three  loaves  of  bread,  two  cqps  molasses  and 
a very  little  grated  orange  peel.  Let  rise,  mold  into  loaves  and  when 
risen,  bake. 

Vienna  Bread. — In  some  bakeries  a peculiar  gloss  is  given  to 
tlie  surface  of  Vienna  bread  by  the  introduction  of  a jet  of  steam 
into  the  oven  while  the  bread  is  baking ; but  if  when  the  bread  made 
at  home  is  half  baked  it  is  brushed  over  with  a soft  sponge  wet  in 
ndlk  the  loaf  will  present  a glossy  crust.  No  particular  kind  of  oven 
is  required,  but  it  is  necessary  that  the  bread  should  be  baked  at 
a temperature  of  500  degrees  Fahrenheit.’  In  the  bakeries  the 
dough  is  mixed  in  zinc-lined  wooden  troughs,  but  an  ordinary  earthen 
bread  bowl  may  be  used.  The  temperature  of  the  room  in  which  the 
bi'ead  is  made  should  be  about  80  degrees  Fahrenheit,  and  the  milk 
and  water  used  for  making  the  bread  should  be  of  the  same  degree 
of  heat ; only  the  best  bread  flour  should  be  used.  The  length  of 
time  required  to  complete  the  process  is  about  three  hours  and  a half. 

The  proportions  of  an  ordinary  family  baking  are  four  pounds  of 
flour,  three  pints  of  milk  and  water,  half  a,n  ounce  of  salt,  and  one 
and  three-quarter  ounces  of  very  fresh  compressed  yeast.  The  pro- 
cess of  making  is  as  follows  : Place  the  flour  in  the  bread  bowl,  and 
in  it  put  the  milk,  water,  and  salt ; mix  with  the  liquid  enough  of 
the  flour  to  make  a very  thin  batter ; next  rub  the  yeast  to  powder 
between  the  hands,  and  mix  it  into  the  batter ; cover  the  bowl  close- 
ly, and  let  it  stand  for  three-qua*rters  of  an  hour.  At  the  end  of  that 
time  mix  in  the  rest  of  the  flour  smoothly,  and  let  the  dough  thus 
made  stand  again  closely  covered  for  two  hours  and  a half,  until  it 
is  light  and  elastic  ; then  cut  it  into  pound  pieces,  and  each  pound 
into  twelve  equal  parts  ; flatten  these  small  pieces  of  dough  in  squares 
three-quarters  of  an  inch  thick,  fold  their  corners  to  the  center,  pinch 
them  down  to  hold  them,  and  turn  the  little  rolls  thus  made  over  on 
board  covered  with  cloth ; let  them  stand  for  about  ten  minutes, 
turn  them  up  again  on  a baking-sheet,  and  put  them  into  a hot  oven 
to  bake  quickly,  for  al)out  fifteen  minutes ; when  half  done  brush 
them  with  milk,  return  them  to  the  oven  and  finish  baking  them. 
This  process  seems  to  imply  a little  trouble  to  the  bread-maker,  but 
the  delicious  quality  of  the  bread  thus  produced  well  repays  the  ex- 
tra pains  taken  in  making  it ; and  a little  practice  will  enable  any 
person  to  accomplish  the  result  successfully  always. 


34 


BREAKFAST  AND  TEA  CAKES. 


BREAKFAST  AISTB  TEA  OAKES. 


To  make  biscuit,  take  a part  of  the  dough  left  from  bread-making 
when  it  is  ready  to  mold  into  loaves,  work  in  the  lard  and  any  other 
ingredients  desired,  such  as  butter,  eggs,  sugar,  spice,  etc.,  also  using 
a little  more  flour;  let  rise  once,  then  mix  down  and  let  rise  again, 
turn  out  on  the  bread-board,  knead  a few  minutes,  roll,  and  cut  out 
with  a biscuit-cutter  or  mold  with  the  hand.  Place  in  a well-greased 
dripping-pan,  and  when  light  bake  in  a quick  oven  from  fifteen  to 
twenty  minutes.  To  make  them  a nice  color,  wet  the  top  with  warm 
water  just  before  placing  in  the  oven.  To  glaze,  brush  lightly  as 
soon  as  removed  from  the  oven  with  milk  and  sugar,  or  the  well 
beaten  yolk  of  an  egg  sweetened,  and.  a little  milk  added,  or  simply 
the  beaten  white 

Biscuit  may  be  baked  in  eight  minutes  by  making  the  oven  as 
hot  as  can  be  without  burning,  and  allowing  it  to  cool  off  gradually  as 
they  bake ; this  makes  them  very  light,  but  one  has  to  watch  closely 
to  keep  them  from  being  scorched.  Any  kind  of  bread  or  pastry 
mixed  with  water  requires  a hotter  fire  than  that  mixed  with  milk. 

Biscuit  and  rolls  should  be  allowed  to  rise  one-half  longer  than 
bread  loaves,  because  the  loaves  of  the  former,  being  smaller, 
penetrated  sooner  by  the  heat,  and,  of  course,  the  fermentation  is 
stopped  sooner,  and  the  rolls  do  not  rise  so  much  in  the  oven. 

Biscuit  foi*  tea  at  six  must  be  molded  two  hours  before,  w*  ich 
will  give  ample  time  for  rising  and  baking.  Parker  House  roll?  ^or 


BREAKFAST  AND  TEA  CAKES. 


35 


breakfast  at  eight  must  be  made  ready  at  five.  Many  think  it  unnec- 
essary to  knead  down  either  bread  or  biscuit  as  often  as  here  di- 
rected ; but  if  attention  is  given  to  the  dough  at  the  right  time,  and 
it  is  not  suffered  to  become  too  light  it  wilf  be  much  nicer,  whiter, 
and  of  a finer  texture  if  these  directions  are  followed. 

The  almost  universal  custom  is  to  set  the  sponge  at  night,  but 
many  excellent  bread-makers  differ  widely  from  this  in  practice  and 
their  objections  deserve  candid  consideration  in  this  nineteenth  cen- 
tury, when  so  much  is  written  of  dyspepsia  and  its  causes.  Some 
medical  authorities  assert  that  cancer  in  the  stomach  has  its  origin 
in  dyspepsia,  which,  in  the  beginning,  is  caused  by  the  use  of  indi- 
gestible yeast  bread,  in  which  the  process  of  fermentation  has  been 
allowed  to  go  so  far  that  a certain  amount  of  actual  decomposition 
has  taken  place.  This  is  not  the  fault  of  such  recipes  as  are  given 
in  this  book,  but  from  failure  to  mix  the  bread  at  each  successive 
rising  at  the  proper  time.  The  objection  to  setting  sponge  at  night 
is  that  it  stands  too  long.  Bread,  to  be  white,  sweet  and  digestible, 
must  be  mixed  immediately  after  the  sponge  has  risen  to  the  proper 
point,  which  may  he' known  by  its  puify  appearance^  usually  rising 
higher  in  the  middle  than  at  the  sides  of  the  crock;  if  it  sinks  in 
the  center,  it  has  stood  too  long. 

Soda  and  baking  powder  biscuit  must  be  handled  as  little  and 
made  as  rapidly  as  possible ; mix  soda  and  cream  tartar  or  baking- 
powder  in  the  flour  (with  sweet  milk  use  baking-powder,  or  soda  and 
cream  tartar,  with  sour  milk  soda  alone),  so  that  the  effervesence 
takes  place  in  the  mixture.  One  teaspoon  soda  and  two  of  cream 
tartar,  or  two  teaspoons  baking-powder,  to  one  quart  flour,  is  about 
the  right  proportion.  Bake  in  a quick  oven  as  soon  as  made,  and 
they  rise  more  quickly  if  put  into  hot  pans.  Gems  of  all  kinds  re- 
quire a hot  oven,  but  the  fire  should  be  built  some  time  before  they 
are  put  into  the  oven,  and  allowed  to  go  down  by  the  time  they  are 
light,  as  the  heat  necessary  to  raise  them  will  burn  them  in  baking 
if  kept  up. 

All  biscuit  and  bread,  except  brown  and  Graham  bread,  should 
be  pricked  with  a fork  before  putting  in  the  oven. 

Soda  and  raised  biscuit  and  bread  or  cake,  when  stale,  can  be 
made  almost  as  nice  as  fresh  by  plunging  for  an  instant  into  cold 
water,  and  then  placing  in  a pan  in  the  oven  ten  or  fifteen  minutes ; 
thus  treated  they  should  be  used  immediately. 


36 


BREAKFAST  AND  TEA  CAKES. 


Waffle-irons  should  be  heated,  then  buttered  or  greased  with 
lard,  and  one  side  filled  with  batterj  closed  and 
laid  on  the  fire  or  placed  on  the  stove,  and  after  a 
few  minutes  turned  on  the  other  side.  They  take 
about  twice  as  long  to  bake  as  griddle-cakes,  and 
are  delicious  with  a dressing  of  ground  cinnamon.  Muffins  are 
baked  in  muffin-rings.  In  eating  them,  do  not  cut  but  break  them 
open. 

The  success  of  these  recipes,  and  all  others  in  this  book  in  which 
soda  and  cream  tartar  are  used,  will  depend  on  the  purity  of  these 
ingredients.  Always  buy  the  pure  English  bicarbonate  of  soda,  and 
the  pure  cream  tartar.  They  are  higher-priced,  but  cheaper  in  the 
end,  and  are  free  from  injurious  substances.  When  not  found 
the  grocer’s,  they  may  generally  be  had  at  the  druggist’s. 


Baking  Powder. — Sixteen  ounces  corn . starch,  eight  of  bicar- 
bonate of  soda,  five  of  tartaric  acid,  mix  thoroughly;  or  eight 
ounces  flour,  eight  of  English  bicarbonate  of  soda,  seven  of  tartaric 
acid ; mix  thoroughly  by  passing  several  times  through  a sieve. 

Bannocks. — Cream  one  pound  butter  with  one  and  one-fourth 
pounds  brown  sugar,  add  six  eggs  whipped  to  a cream,  one  tea-spoon 
ginger,  one  and  one-fourth  pounds  white  Indian  meal  MHaEBiaBU 
and  same  of  flour.  Bake  in  small  cakes  in  cups  or 
gem  pans  and  leave  in  them  until  cold. 

Bannocks. — Wet  one  pint  Indian  meal  with  boiling  water  <or 
milk.  Let  stand  a few  minutes  and  add  one  egg,  a little  sweet  cream 
or  a tablespoon  melted  butter,  and  salt.  Make  into  balls  and  fry  in 
hot  lard. 

Biscuit. — Dissolve  one  rounded  tablespoon  of  butter  in  a pint 
of  hot  milk ; when  lukewarm  stir  in  one  quart  of  flour,  add  one 
beaten  egg,  a little  salt,  and  a*  cup  of  yeast;  work  into  dough  un- 
til smooth.  If  winter,  set  in  a warm  place;  if  summer,  in  a cool 
one  to  rise.  In  the  morning  work  softly  and  toll  out  one-half  inch 
thick,  cut  into  biscuit  and  set  to  rise  for  thirty  minutes,  when  they 
will  be  ready  to  bake.  These  are  delicious. 

Biscuit. — Take  one  quart  sifted  flour  (loosely  put  in),  three 
heaping  teaspoons  of  Horsford’s  Bread  Preparation,  or  baking  poW' 
der,  one  teaspoon  salt,  three  gills  of  water ; shape  with  a spoon  and 
the  floured  hand. 


BREAKFAST  AND  TEA  CAKES. 


37 


Buttermilk  Biscuit.  — One  quart  flour,  one  teaspoon  soda, 
butter  or  lard  size  of  an  egg,  a little  salt  and  buttermilk  to  make  a 
soft  dough.  Roll  out  quickly  and  bake  in  hot  oven. 

The  following  way  of  baking  makes  a pleasing  novelty  : Roll 
the  dough  thinner  than  ordinarily,  spread  well  with  butter  previously 
softened,  dust  over  thickly  with  white  sugar  and  roll  it  up ; cut  slices 
off  from  the  end  the  thickness  of  ordinary  biscuit,  put  in  buttered 
pans  and  bake. 

Cream  Biscuit. — Put  three  heaping  tablespoons  of  sour  cream 
into  a bowl  or  pan  holding  a quart,  and  fill  two-thirds  full  of  sweet 
milk;  add  two  teaspoons  cream  tartar,  one  teaspoon  soda  and  a 
little  salt,  with  flour  enough  to  mix  soft,  and  bake  in  quick  oven. 

Fairy  Biscuit. — Beat  well  together  two  ounces  butter  and  a half 
pound  of  flour,  adding  the  white  of  one  egg,  one  teaspoon  milk,  four 
ounces  sugar,  two  ounces  sweet,  well  pounded  almonds,  and  work 
well  into  paste.  Pinch  off  pieces  the  size  of  a half  dollar  and  bake 
on  buttered  paper. 

Hard  Tea  Biscuit. — Two  pounds  of  flour,  one-fourth  pound 
butter,  one  salt-spoon  salt,  three  gills  milk ; cut  up  the  butter  and 
rub  it  in  the  flour,  add  the  salt  and  milk,  knead  dough  for  half  an 
hour,  cut  cakes  about  as  large  as  a small  tea-cup  and  half  an  inch 
thick,  prick  with  a fork,  and  bake  in  a moderate  oven  until  they  are 
a delicate  brown. 

High  Biscuit. — On  baking  days  reserve  one  small  loaf  and  mix 
a rounded  tablespoon  butter,  a level  tablespoon  sugar  and  one  egg 
into  it  by  pulling  it  to  pieces  with  the  hands ; knead  into  a loaf,  let 
it  rise,  then  by  rolling  between  the  hands  make  into  balls  the  size  of 
a small  hen’s  egg,  place  in  rows  in  very  well  greased  dripping-pan ; 
when  half  full  raise  the  end  that  is  empty  almost  perpendicular,  and 
shake  gently  until  the  balls  slide  compactly  together,  then  add  more 
and  continue  doing  so  until  the  pan  is  Adi;  rub  over  the  top  with 
melted  butter,  let  rise  until  very  light,  and  bake. 

Maple  Biscuit. — To  the  well-beaten  yolks  of  twelve  eggs,  add 
half  pound  of  powdered  or  granulated  sugar  and  half  a cup  of  sweet 
milk;  mix  one  teaspoon  baking  powder  in  a (scant)  half  pound  of 
sifted  flour,  then  sift  the  flour  gently  into  the  batter  and  add  flavor- 
ing, bake  in  biscuit  pans,  spreading  the  batter  one  and  a half  to  two 
inches  thick  in  the  pan.  If  rightly  made  it  will  be  very  light.  Do 
not  bake  too  fast  and  have  the  oven  about  as  for  sponge  cake,  \yhen 
cold,  cut  into  slices  three  inches  long  and  one  inch  wide.  Ice  the 
sides,  ends  and  top  with  white,  pink  and  chocolate  icing.  Dry  in 
oven,  and  then,  if  desired,  the  bottom  may  be  iced.  Build  in  square 
blocks  and  place  on  table.  Serve  a plate  of  the  white,  one  of  the 
pink,  and  one  of  the  brown,  or  they  may  be  mixed  in  building. 


38 


BREAKFAST  AND  TEA  CAKES. 


Potato  Biscuit. — One  cup  each  butter,  sugar,  milk,  hot  mashed! 
potatoes  (free  from  lumps),  one  cup  yeast  and  two 
eggs.  Mix  with  enough  flour  to  make  a good  batter, 
let  rise,  and  add  as  much  flour  as  can  stirred  in 
with  a spoon.  Let  rise  again,  roll  out  to  half  an  inch  thick,  cut 
in  small  roi^nd  cakes,  put  two  together  and  when  light  bake. 


Biscuit  Pans. 


Rye  Biscuit. — Two  cups  rye  meal,  one  and  a half  cups  flour, 
one  egg,  two  cups  sour  milk,  one-third  cup  molasses,  salt  and  two 
teaspoons  soda.  Mix  lightly,  roll  out  and  bake. 


South  Carolina  Biscuit. — One  quart  sweet  cream  or  milk,  one 
and  a half  cups  butter  or  fresh  lard,  two  tablespoons  white  sugar, 
one  good  teaspoon  salt ; add  flour  sufficient  to  make  a stiff  dough, 
knead  well  and  mold  into  neat,  small  biscuits  with  the  hands,  as  our 
grandmothers  used  to  do ; add  one  good  teaspoon  cream  tartar  if 
preferred ; bake  well,  and  you  have  good  sweet  biscuits  that  will  keep 
for  weeks  in  a dry  place,  and  are  very  nice  for  traveling  lunch.  They 
are  such  as  used  to  be  sent  to  the  army,  and  the  “boys’’  relished 
them  “hugely.” 


Soda  Biscuit. — Put  one  quart  of  flour,  before  sifting,  into  sieve 
with  one  teaspoon  soda  and  two  of  cream  tartar  ( or  three  of  baking 


one  tablespoon  white  sugar;  mix  all 
thoroughly  with  the  flour,  run  through 
sieve,  rub  in  one  level  tablespoon  of 
lard  or  butter  (or  half  and  half),  wet 
with  half  pint  sweet  milk,  roll  on 
board  about  an  inch  thick,  cut  with 
biscuit  cutter,  and  bake  in  a quick 
oven  fifteen  minutes.  If  you  have 
not  milk,  use  a little  more  butter,  and  wet  with  water.  Handle  a& 
little  and  make  as  rapidly  as  possible. 


powder),  one 

m 


Biscuit  and  Fancy  Cake  Cutters. 


Spoon  Hiscuit. — One  quart  sour  milk  or  buttermilk,  one  tea- 
spoon soda,  a little  salt,  two  tablespoons  melted  lard,  and  flour 
enough  for  a stiff  batter ; drop  in  a hot  gem-pan  and  bake  in  a quick 
oven. 

Tea  Biscuits. — Cook  until  mealy  and  tender  three  good  sized 
potatoes,  mash  through  colander,  and  add  them  to  one  quart  flour 
in  which  two  tablespoons  of  baking  powder  have  been  sifted,  butter 
size  of  egg  rubbed  well  through  the  flour,  one  well-beaten  egg,  one 
cup  cream  and  milk  enough  to  make  a good  firm  dough.  Roll  out 
to  one-half  inch  in  thickness,  cut  into  small  cakes  and  bake  in  hot 
oven  fifteen  minutes. 

Unleavened  Biscuit. — Five  cups  Graham  flour,  one  cup  warm 
(not  hot)  water,  white  of  one  e^  well-beaten.  Bake  in  gem  pans. 


BREAKFAST  AND  TEA  CAKES. 


39 


Coifee  Bread. — One  egg,  one-half  cup  sugar,  one  cup  milk,  one- 
half  cup  yeast  and  flour  to  sponge.  When  light  add  one-half  cup 
butter,  W'Orked  in  with  the  hands  (not  kneaded)  and  flour  enough 
to  make  it  soft  so  that  it  may  be  patted  down  into  a greased  pan  to 
bake.  Let  rise  again,  put  little  specks  of  butter  over  the  top,  press 
them  in  and  sprinkle  with  sugar  and  cinnamon.  Bake  about  twenty 
minutes,  and  cut  in  strips  an  inch  wide  for  breakfast  or  lunch. 

Easter  Bread. — One  yeast  cake,  two  cups  each  flour  and  water ; 
mix  and  set  to  rise  overnight ; in  the  morning  take  six  cups  flour, 
two  cups  milk,  one  and  one-half  cups  currants,  one  and  one-half 
cups  raisins,  one-half  cup  sugar,  butter  the  size  of  a large  hen’s 
egg  rubbed  in  cold,  one  teaspoon ’salt ; mix  and  let  rise  until  light, 
then  mold  and  put  in  pans  until  light,  then  wet  top  with  melted 
butter,  and  bake  one  hour. 

Buns. — Break  one  egg  into  a cup  and  fill  with  sweet  milk ; mix 
with  it  half  cup  yeast,  half  cup  butter,  one  cup  sugar,  enough  flbur 
to  make  a soft  dough ; flavor  with  nutmeg.  Let  rise  till  very  light, 
then  mold  into  biscuit  with  a few  currants.  ■ Let  rise  a second  time 
in  pan ; bake  and,  when  nearly  done,  glaze  with  a little  molasses 
in  milk.  Use  the  same  cup,  no  matter  about  the  size,  for  each 
measure. 

Currant  Buns. — Four  pounds  light  bread  dough,  eight  ounces 
each  of  currants,  sugar  and  softened  butter.  Boll  the  dough  out, 
strew  the  currants  over  it  and  knead  them  in.  Roll  out  again,  then 
spread  on  the  butter  and  sugar,  cut  in  bands  as  wide  as  the  hand 
and  roll  them  up.  Brush  them  over  with  melted  butter  so  that  they 
will  not  sti.ck  together  in  the  pans  and  cut  off  pieces^an  inch  thick. 
Put  in  a buttered  pan  just  touching  each  other,  let  them  rise  nearly 
an  hour  and  bake.  Brush  over  with  sugar  and  water  and  dredge 
with  sugar  and  cinnamon. 

Hot  Cross  Buns. — Set  a sponge  overnight  with  three  cups 
sweet  milk,  one  cup  yeast  and  flour  enough  to  make  a stiff  batter. 
In  the  morning  add  one-half  cup  melted*  butter,  one  cup  sugar,  half 
a nutmeg,  salt-spoon  salt  and  flour  enough  to  roll  out.  Knead  well 
and  set  to  rise  five  hours.  Roll  half  an  inch  thick,  cut  into  round 
cakes,  and  when  they  have  risen  half  an  hour  make  a cross  on  each 
one  with  a knife  and  bake. 

Apple  Cake. — ^lake  like  cinnamon  cake,  placing  raw  apples  cut 
in  eighths  over  the  top,  with  the  butter,  cinnamon  and  sugar.  Let 
rise  and  bake. 

Breakfast  Cake. — Two  tablespoons  sugar,  two  of  batter,  two 
eggs,  one  cup  milk,  one  (scant)  quart  flour,  one  teaspoon  soda,  i-wo 
of  cream  tartar;  bake  twenty  minutes  in  a quiet  Ox^en. 


40 


BREAKFAST  AND  TEA  CAKES. 


Cinnamon  Cake. — When  yeast  bread  is  ready  to  knead  from  the 
sponge,  knead  and  roll  out  three-fourths  of  an  inch  thick,  put  thin 
slices  of  butter  on  the  top,  sprinkle  with  cinnamon,  and  then  with 
sugar ; let  rise  well  and  bake. 

Tea  Cake. — One  quart  flour,  one  cup  sour  milk,  one  teaspoon 
soda,  one-half  pound  lard,  one-half  pound  chopped  raisins  or  cur- 
rants ; roll  two  inches  thick  and  bake  in  a quick  oven ; split  open, 
butter  and  eat  while  hot. 

Egg  Crackers. — Six  eggs,  twelve  tablespoons  sweet  milk,  six 
tablespoons  butter,  half  teaspoon  soda ; mold  with  flour  half  an 
hour,  and  roll  thin. 

French  Crackers. — One  and  a half  pounds  each  flour  and  sugar, 
three-fourths  pound  butter,  whites  of  five  eggs ; before  cooking  wash 
over  with  egg  and  dip  in  sugar. 

Cracknels. — To  one  pint  of  rich  milk  put  two  ounces  butter  and 
spoon  of  yeast.  Make  it  warm,  and  mix  enough  fine  flour  to  make 
a light  dough ; roll  thin  and  cut  in  long  pieces,  two  inches  broad. 
Prick  well,  and  bake  in  slow  oven. 

Cream  Cracknels. — One  pound  flour,  ten  ounces  butter,  two 
tablespoons  sugar,  one-half  teaspoon  salt,  nine  tablespoons  sour 
cream ; add  salt  and  sugar  to  the  flour,  rub  in  the  butter,  and  knead 
into  a soft  dough  with  the  cream ; flour  the  board,  turn  out  the 
dough,  and  break  off  small  pieces,  which  roll  with  the  hand  about 
nine  inches  long,  and  shape  into  cracknels ; rub  over  with  beaten 
eggs,  and  sprinkle  plentifully  with  sugar  and  cinnamon  mixed ; bake 
on  tins  in  a niQ derate  oven. 

English  Crumpets. — One  quart  warm  milk,  one  teaspoon  salt, 
half  cup  yeast,  flour  enough  for  a not  very  stiff  batter.  When  light 
add  half  a cup  melted  butter,  let  stand  twenty  minutes,  and  bake  in 
muffin  rings  or  cups. 

Cream  Crisps. — Put  two  and  a half  cups  good  rich  cream,  either 
sweet  or  sour,  in  a crock  and  add  gradually  four  cups  unsifted  best 
Graham  flour,  and  half  a cup  sugar,  then  take  out  on 
board  and  knead  well  with  one  more  cup  Graham. 

The  dough  wants  to  be  very  stiff  and  kneaded  thor- 
oughly. Poll  out  as  thin  as  for  thin  cookies,  cut  with  cream  crisps, 
biscuit  cutter,  prick  well  and  place  in  pans  slightly  buttered  for  first 
panfull,  not  greasing  a-fterwards,  in  a rather  hot  oven,  and  bake  imme- 
diately, putting  them  in  bottom  of  oven  first,  and  then  in  the  upper 
oven  to  brown.  If  wanted  “extra  nice,”  sift  the  flour  (using  about 
one-eighth  more  flour. ) The  quantity  of  sugar  can  be  increased  or 
diminished,  but  for  health’s  sake  this  is  sufficient,  or  even  less.  Prop- 
erly made,  they  will  be  crisp  and  delicious. 


BREAKFAST  AND  TEA  CAKES. 


41 


Hominy  Crumpets. — One  cup  boiled  hominy,  two  cups  milk, 
one  tablespoon  sugar,  two  tablespoons  melted  butter,  four  table- 
spoons yeast,  four  cups  flour,  or  enough  to  make  a good  batter,  and 
a little  salt  well  beaten  together.  Let  rise  six  hours  or  until  very 
light.  Then  add  one-fourth  teaspoon  soda  dissolved  in  a little  hot 
w^ater,  put  into  muffin  tins,  let  stand  fifteen  minutes  and  then  bake 
quickly.  To  be  eaten  hot.  For  rice  crumpets  substitute  one  cup 
rice  for  the  hominy. 

Royal  Cmim'pets. — Knead  four  tablespoons  melted  butter,  three 
eggs  and  one  cup  sugar  into  three  cups  raised  dough.  Bake  twenty 
minutes  in  buttered  tins  and  serve  with  sugar. 

Corn  Dodgers. — To  one  quart  corn  meal  add  a little  salt  and  a 
small  tablespoon  lard ; scald  with  boiling  water  and  beat  hard  for  a 
few  minutes  ; drop  a large  spoonful  in  a well-greased  pan.  The  bat- 
.ter  should  be  thick  enough  to  just  flatten  on  the  bottom,  leaving 
them  quite  high  in  the  center.  Bake  in  a hot  oven. 

Gems.  — One  tablespoon  each  sugar  and  butter,  one  egg,  one 
cup  milk,  two  teaspoons  baking-powder,  flour  to  stiffen ; beat  sugar 
and  butter  to  a cream  and  add  the  rest.  This  recipe  makes  one 
dozen  gems. 

Corn  Gems. — Two  cups  each  corn  meal,  flour 
and  sweet  milk,  two  eggs,  three  heaping  teaspoons 
baking-powder,  one-half  cup  each  butter  and  sugar,  com  Gem  pans, 
and  a little  salt.  Put  into  hot  gem  pans. 

Good  Graham  Gems. — Three  cups  sour  milk,  one  teaspoon 
soda,  one  of  salt,  one  tablespoon  brown  sugar,  one  of  melted  lard, 
one  beaten  egg ; to  the  egg  add  the  milk,  then  the  sugar  and  salt, 
then  the  Graham  flour  (with  the  soda  mixed  in),  together  with  the 
lard;  make  a stiff  batter,  so  that  it  will  drop,  not  pour,  from  the 
spoon.  Have  gem-pans  very  hot,  grease,  fill  and  bake  fifteen  min- 
utes in  a hot  oven. 

Sweet  Milh  Gems. — Beat  one  egg  well,  add  a pint  new  milk,  a 
little  salt  and  Graham  flour  until  it  will  drop  off  the  spoon  nicely ; 
heat  and  butter  the  gem-pans  before  dropping  in  the  dough ; bake  in 
a hot  oven  twenty  minutes. 

Oat  Meal  Gems. — One  cup  cooked  oat  meal,  or  soaked  over' 
night,  in  one  cup  water.  Add  one  cup  sour  milk,  one  teaspoon 
soda,  one  cup  flour,  a little  salt,  and  bake  in  gem-pans.  Try  one  first 
and  if  too  moist  or  sticky  add  more  flour, 

Wheaten  Gems. — Mix  one  teaspoon  baking-powder  and  a little 
salt  into  one  pint  flour ; add  to  the  beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs  on^-  tea- 
cup sweet  milk  or  cream,  a piece  of  butter  (melted)  half  the  sire  of 
-an  egg,  the  flour  with  baking-powder  and  salt  mixed,  and  th^  well 


42 


BREAKFAST  AND  TEA  CAKES. 


beaten  whites  of  the  two  eggs.  Beat  well,  bake  immediately  in  gem- 
pans  in  a hot  oven,  and  take  out  and  send  to  the  table  immediately. 

Alabama  Johnny- Cajce. — Cook  a pint  of  rice  till  tender,  add  a 
tablespoon  butter;  when  cold  add  two  beaten  eggs  and  one  pint 
meal,  and  when  mixed  spread  on  an  oaken  board  and  bake  by  tip- 
ping the  board  up  before  the  fire-place.  When  done  on  one  side  turn 
over.  The  dough  should  be  spread  half  an  inch  thick. 

Johnny-Cake. — Two  eggs,  one  cup  sugar,  one  ana  one-half  of 
corn  meal,  two-thirds  cup  melted  butter,  or  lard,  two  cups  each  sour 
milk  and  'flour,  two  teaspoons  each  saleratus  and  salt. 

Johnny-Cake. — Two-thirds  teaspoon  soda,  three  tablespoons 
sugar,  one  teaspoon  cream  tartar,  one  egg,  one  cup  sweet  milk,  six 
tablespoons  Indian  meal,  three  tablespoons  flour,  and  a little  salt. 
This  makes  a thin  batter. 

Corn  MniRns. — One  quart  sifted  Indian  meal,  a heaping  tea- 
spoon butter,  one  quart  milk,  a salt-spoon  salt,  a third  cup  yeast,  a 
tablespoon  of  molasses ; let  it  rise  four  or  five  hours,  and  bake  in 
muffin-rings. 


Corn  MnMns. — Two  cups  corn  meal,  one-half  cup  flour. 


one- 


fourth  cup  sugar,  two  eggs,  butter  size  of  a walnut,  one  teaspoon 
salt,  two  tea-spoons  baking  powder  and  enough  sweet  milk  to  make 
quite  thin.  Bake  in  gem  pans. 

Cream  MuMns. — Beat  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  with  one  teaspoon 
salt  and  stir  in  a half-pint  sweet  cream  adding  a half-pint  of  flour 
and  lastly  the  whites  of  the  eggs  beaten  to  a stiff  froth.  Bake  in 
buttered  gem  pans  in  quick  oven  from  ten  to  fifteen  minutes. 


Graham  IfuMns.- 
and  a half  cups  milk, 
Graham  flour  to  stiffen. 


■ One  egg,  heaping  tablespoon  butter,  one- 
little  salt,  one  teaspoon  baking  powder, 
Put  in  slightly  heated  gem  tins  and  bake. 


Graham  MuMns. — Two  cups  sour  milk,  two  tablespoons  brown 
sugar,  a little  salt,  one  teaspoon  soda,  sufficient  Graham  flour  to 
make  moderately  stiff.  If  not  convenient  to  use  sour  milk,  use 
sweet,  adding  cream  of  tartar. 

Indian  MuMns. — Two  cups  Indian  meal  scalded  with  as  little 
water  as  possible,  one  cup  flour,  one  cup 
sweet  milk,  one  tablespoon  butter,  half 
cup  sugar,  one  small  cup  yeast.  Let  rise 
overnight  and  bake  in  rings  .for  breakfeast. 

Rice  MuMns. — One  cup  cold  boiled  rice,  two  eggs,  one  quart 
milk,  one  tablespoon  butter,  one  teaspoon  salt,  one  pint  flour  and  a 
teaspoon  baking  powder. 


Leaf  Cake  Pan.  Scallop  Pan. 


BREAKFAST  AND  TEA  CAKES. 


43 


Rice  Flour  MuMns. — One  and  one-half  cups  rice  flour,  two 
-cups  wheat  flour,  three  teaspoons  baking  powder,  one  nint  sweet 
milk,  one  egg,  a little  salt  and  small  piece  of  butter. 

Rye  MuMns. — One  and  one-half  cups  rye  flour,  same  of  wheat 
flour,  one  egg,  one  scant  teaspoon  cream  tartar,  one-half  teaspoon 
soda,  made  into  a batter  with  sweet  milk. 

• 

Sour  Milk  MuMns. — Stir  one  egg  into  one  pint  sour  milk  with- 
out boiling.  Melt  a teaspoon  of  butter  and  a teaspoon  saleratus  in 
a tablespoon  of  hot  water.  Salt  and  make  a thick  batter  with  wheat 
flour,  beat  well,  drop  in  moderately  hot  muffin  tins,  filling  them  half 
full. 


Wheat  MuMns.  — Mix  one  pint  milk,  two  eggs,  three  ta  le- 
spoons  yeast,  and  salt-spoon  of  salt,  with  flour  enough  to  make  a 
stiff*  batter ; let  rise  four  or  five  hours  or  mix  at  night  for  breakfast 
Rnd  bake  in  muffin-rings  in  a hot  oven,  for  about  ten  minutes.  Thi 
recipe  may  be  made  with  Graham  flour,  by  adding  two  tablespoons 
of  molasses,  and  is  excellent. 

Pocket-Books. — Warm  one  quart  new  milk,  add  one  cup  butter 
or  lard,  four  tablespoons  sugar,  and  two  well-beaten  eggs ; stir  in 
flour  enough  to  make  a moderately  stiff  sponge,  add  a small  cup  of 
yeast,  and  set  in  a warm  place  to  rise,  which  will  take  three  or  four 
hours ; then  mix  in  flour  enough  to  make  a soft  dough  and  let  rise 
again.  When  well  risen,  dissolve  a lump  of  soda  size  of  a bean  in  a 
spoon  of  milk,  work  it  into  the  dough  and  roll  into  sheets  one-half 
inch  in  thickness  ; spread  with  thin  layer  of  butter,  cut  into  squares 
and  fold  over,  pocket-book  shape ; put  on  tins  or  in  pans  to  rise  for 
a little  while,  when  they  will  be 'fit  for  the  oven.  In  summer  the 
sponge  can  be  made  up  in  the  morning,  and  rise  in  time  to  make  for 
tea.  In  cool  weather  it  is  best  to  set  it  overnight. 

Corn  Pones. — Scald  one  pint  corn  meal  with  a quart  of  milk, 
stir  in  six  eggs  beaten  separately,  one  tablespoon  flour,  two  table- 
spoons baking  powder,  and  a little  salt.  Bake  in  buttered  cups,  in 
which  send  to  table  that  they  may  be  turned  out  and  eaten  hot  with 
butter  and  syrup. 

Corn  Pop-over s. — Stir  into  one  pint  scalded  sweet  milk  one  large 
cup  corn  meal,  a piece  of  butter  half  the  size  of  an  egg,  and  a little 
salt.  ' Add  three  well  beaten  eggs  the  last  thing ; no  soda. 

Pop-overs  ■ — Four  well  beaten  eggs,  four  cups  each  of  sweet  milk 
and  flour,  butter  size  of  a walnut,  pinch  of  salt ; beat  thoroughly  to- 
gether and  bake  in  hot  gem  pans.  A tablespoon  sugar  may  be  add- 
led if  liked,  but  very  nice  without. 

Breakfast  Puffs. — If  the  wheat  bread  is  light  enough  for  the 


^4 


BREAKFAST  AND  TEA  OAKES. 


oven  at  breakfast  time,  have  ready  some  hot  lard  in  a deep  kettle: 
with  the  thumb  and  two  fingers  pull  up  some  of  the  dough  quite 
thin,  and  cut  it  in  two  or  three  inches  in  length ; as  these  pieces 
are  cut,  drop  them  in  the  lard  and  fry  like  doughnuts.  At  table 
they  are  eaten  like  biscuit ; they  may  also  be  served  in  a vegetable 
dish  with  a dressing  of  hot  cream,  seasoned  with  pepper  and  salt. 


PufFs  (for  tea). — Kinse*  a saucepan  in  water  to  lessen 
risk  of  burning  and  heat  one  pint  of  new  milk  with  a 
quarter  pound  of  butter  to  boiling,  stir  in  smoothly  a 
half  pound  of  flour  and  when  cool  beat  in  the  yolks  of  pus  Pans, 
nine  eggs,  adding  the  whites  beaten  to  a stiff  froth  last.  ‘Bake 
gem  pans  or  cups,  half  filled,  twenty  minutes  in  hot,  oven. 


in 


Breakfast  Rolls. — Mix  the  dough  in  the  evening,  according  to 
directions  in  the  recipe  for  “Bread  Raised  Once;”  add  a table-spoon 
of  butter,  and  set  where  it  will  be  a little  warm  until  morning ; cut 
off  pieces,  and  carefully  shape  them  into  rolls  of  the  desired  size  by 
rolling  them  between  the  hands,  but  do  not  knead  them ; dip  the 
sides  of  each  into  drawn  butter  when  they  are  shaped,  and  place 
them  in  the  baking  pan  (the  butter  prevents  their  sticking  together 
when  baked,  and  they  will  be  smooth  and  perfect  when  separated). 
Rub  them  over  the  top  with  drawn  butter,  and  dust  a little  fine  salt 
over  the  top ; set  in  a warm  place,  and  they  will  quickly  rise  ready 
for  baking.  These  are  delicious. 


Cinnamon  Rolls. — Take  a piece  of  raised  biscuit  dough,  add  a 
little  sugar,  roll  out  to  one-fourth  an  inch  thick,  spread  with  butter, 
sugar  and  cinnamon,  roll  up  as  you  would  jelly  cake  and  cut  off 
pieces  about  half  an  inch  thick,  put  on  buttered  tins  to  rise  and 
when  light  put  a little  butter,  sugar  and  cinnamon  on  the  top  of  each 
and  bake. 


Coifee  Rolls. — Work  into  a quart  of  bread  dough  a rounded 
tablespoon  of  butter,  and  a half  tea-cup  of  white  sugar ; add  some 
dried  currants  (well  washed  and  dried  in  the  oven),  sift  some  flour 
and  sugar  over  them,  work  into  the  other  ingredients,  make  into 
small  rolls,  dip  into  melted  butter,  place  in  tins,  let  rise  a short  time 
and  bake. 

Corn  Rolls. — One  pint  of  corn  meal,  two  tablespoons  sugar 
one  teaspoon  salt,  one  pint  boiling  milk ; stir  all  together  and  let 
stand  till  cool.  Add  three  eggs  well  beaten,  and  bake  in  gem-pans, 

Dinner  Rolls. — Make  dough  as  directed  in  recipe  for  “Finger 
Rolls,”  make  into  balls  as  large  as  a medium-sized  hen’s  egg, 
place  on  a well-floured  board,  flour  a small  rolling-pin  (three- 
quarters  of  an  inch  in  diameter),  press  down  so  as  nearly  to  divide 


BREAKFAST  AND  TEA  CAKES. 


45 


each  ball  of  dough  in  the  center,  place  in  baking-pans  so  they  will 
/lot  touch  each  other,  grease  the  space  made  by  the  rolling  pin  with 
melted  butter,  let  them  rise  until  light,  and  bake.  These  rolls  are  so 
small  and  bake  so  quickly,  that  they  have  the  delicious  sweet  taste 
of  the  wheat.  Some  grease  the  hands  with  butter  while  making  the 
rolls.  Bread  dough,  by  adding  the  other  ingredients,  may  be  used 
for  these  rolls. 

Egg  Rolls. — To  three  well  beaten  eggs  add  one  cup  each  of 
sugar,  yeast  and  lard  or  butter,  and  a pint  of  sweet  milk.  Sponge  at 
night,  mix  in  the  morning,  adding  a little  soda ; roll  them  as  pie 
crust,  spread  with  lard,  roll  up  and  bake. 

Every-Day  Rolls. — Take  a piece  of  bread  dough  on  baking 
day,  when  molded  out  the  last  time,  about 
e7iough  for  a small  loaf,  spread  out  a little, 
add  one  egg,  two  tablespoons  sugar  and 
tl  iree-fourths  cup  lard ; add  a little  flour  rvo..«. 

and  a small  teaspoon  soda  if  the  least  bit  sour ; mix  well,  let  rise, 
mold  into  rolls  or  biscuits,  set  to  rise  again,  and  they  will  be  ready 
for  the  oven  in  twenty  or  thirty  minutes. 

Finger  Rolls. — Three  and  one-half  cups  sweet  milk,  one  cup 
butter  and  lard  mixed  in  equal  proportions,  one  cup  potato  yeast, 
flour  enough  to  make  into  dough.  Let  rise  overnight ; in  the  morn- 
ing add  one  beaten  egg,  half  cup  sugar ; knead  well  and  let  rise.  With 
the  hands  make  into  balls  as  large  as  a small 
hen’s  egg,  then  roll  between  the  hands,  or  on 
a floured  board,  into  long  rolls,  about  four  in- 
ches long  and  three-quarters  of  an  inch  in 
diameter,  or  size  of  the  second  finger;  place 
in  even  rows  in  the  pans,  not  too  close  together, 
or  in  roll  pan.  Let  rise  until  light,  bake  delicately,  and  glaze  by 
brushing  lightly  with  the  white  of  an  egg.  Or,  to  bread  dough  add 
naif  cup  sugar,  an  egg,  and  cup  butter,  let  rise  and  roll  as  above. 

French  Rolls. — Peel  six  medium-sized  mealy  potatoes,  boil  in 
two  quarts  of  water,  press  and  drain  both  potatoes  and  water  through 
a colander ; when  cool  enough  so  as  not  to  scald,  add  flour  to  make 
a thick  batter,  beat  well,  and  when  lukewarm  add  one-half  cup  pota- 
to yeast.  Make  this  sponge  early  in  the 
morning,  and  when  light  turn  into  a bread 
pan,  add  a teaspoon  salt,  half  cup  lard,  and 
flour  enough  for  a soft  dough ; mix  up  and 
set  in  a warm,  even  temperature ; when  risen, 
knead  down  and  place  again  to  rise,  repeating  this  process  five  or  six 
times ; cut  in  small  pieces  and  mold  on  the  bread-board  in  rolls  about 
one  inch  thick  by  five  long ; roll  in  melted  butter  or  sweet  lard  and 
place  in  well-greased  baking  pans  (nine  inches  long  by  five  wide 


Finger  Rolls. 


46 


BREAKFAST  AND  TEA  CAKES. 


and  two  and  a half  in  depth,  makes  a convenient  sized  pan,  which 
holds  fifteen  of  these  rolls  ; or,  if  twice  the  width,  put  in  two  rows)  ; 
press  the  rolls  closely  together  so  that  they  will  only  be  about  half 
an  inch  in  width.  Let  rise  a short  time  and  b^fke  twenty  minutes  in 
a hot  oven ; if  the  top  browns  too  rapidly,  cover  with  paper.  These 
rolls,  if  properly  made,  are  very  white,  light  and  tender. 

Or,  make  rolls  larger,  and  just  before  putting  them  in  the  oven, 
cut  deeply  across  each  one  with  a sharp  knife.  This  will  make  the 
cleft  roll,  so  famous  among  French  cooks. 


French  Rolls. — For  about  sixty  split  rolls,  three  large  cups 
water  or  milk ; one  large  cup  yeast ; heaping  tablespoon  salt ; two 
ounces  each  sugar  and  lard  or  butter ; four  pounds  flour.  Set  sponge 
at  eight  in  the  morning  with  half  the  flour,  adding*  sugar  and  butter, 
then  beat  it  again  about  one,  add  the  salt  and  make  up  stiff  dough 
with  the  rest  of  the  flour.  Knead  the  dough  on  the  table,  alternate!}' 
drawing  it  up  in  round  shape  and  pressing  the  pulled-over  edges 
into  the  middle  and  then  pressing  it  out  to  a flat  sheet,  folding  ove^ 
and  pressing  out  again. 

Brush  the  clean  pan  over  with  the  least  touch  of  melted  lard  or 
butter — which  prevents  sticking  and  waste  of  dough — place  the  dougl  i 
in  and  brush  that  over,  too.  Wiere  economy  reigns  the  strictest,  a 
little  warm  water  in  a cup  and  teaspoon  lard  melted  in  it  will  do 
for  this  brushing  over  and  insures  the  truest  saving  and  smoothest 
bread.  Let  the  dough  rise  till  four,  then  spread  dough  on  table  b>' 
pressing  out  with  the  knuckles  till  it  is  a thin  uneven  sheet.  Double.^ 
it  over  on  itself  and  press  the  two  edges  together  all  around  first. 
This  imprisons  air  in  the  knuckle  holes  in  large  masses.  Then 
pound  and  press  the  dough  with  the  fists  till  it  has  become  a thin 
sheet  again,  with  the  inclosed 
air  distributed  in  bubbles  all 
through  it.  Fold  over  and  re- 
peat this  process  several  times, 
then  roll  it  up ; it  will  be  like 
an  air  cushion.  Let  it  stand  a few  minutes  before  making  into  plain 
rolls,  cleft  rolls,  or  loaves.  Persons  in  practice  find  it  quickest  to 
pull  off  pieces  of  dough  of  right  size  and  mold  them  up  instantly. 
Others  cut  off  strips  of  dough,  roll  tliem  in  lengths  and  cut  these  up  in 
roll  sizes ; mold  them  up  round  with  no  flour  on  the  board  and  only 
a dust  on  the  hands,  and  place  them  in  regular  rows  on  the  table — 
the  smoothest  side  down ; take  a little  rolling  pin — it  looks  like  a 
piece  of  new  broom  handle — and  roll  a depression  across  the  middle 
of  each  ; brush  these  over  with  the  least  possible  melted  lard  or  but- 
ter, using  a tin-bound  varnish  brush  for  the  purpose ; double  the 
rolls,  the  two  buttered  sides  together  as  seen  in  the  cut  above,  and 
place  them  in  the  pans  diagonally,  with  plenty  of  room  so  they  will 
not  touch  ; brush  over  th-e  to]')s  of  the  rolls  in  the  pans  with  the  least 


BREAKFAST  AND  TEA  CAKES. 


47 


poss.ible  melted  lard  again,  and  set  them  to  rise  about  an  hour — less  or 
more  according  to  temperature.  Bake  in  a hot  oven,  about  ten  min- 
utes ; brush  over  with  clear  water  when  done. 

Graham  Rolls. — Mix  thoroughly  with  a spoon  one  quart  each 
of  Graham  and  white  flour,  one  and  a half  pints  lukewarm  water, 
one  gill  each  of  molasses  and  yeast,  two  ounces  drippings  or  butter, 
two  teaspoons  salt.  Let  rise,  drop  in  buttered  roll  pans  and  bake. 
For  breakfast  mix  at  night. 

Italian  Rolls. — A pound  of  bread  dough,  quarter-pound  soft- 
ened butter ; work  the  butter  well  into  the 
dough,  and  roll  out  about  half  an  inch  thick  ; 
cut  into  strips  nearly  an  inch  wide  and  seven 
or  eight  inches  long;  sift  over  them  flne 
corn  meal,  place  them  apart  on  a buttered 
pan,  and  when  light  bake  in  a quick  oven. 

Oatmeal  Rolls. — To  one  cup  oatmeal  mush  add  half  cup  sweet 
milk,  thicken  with  white  flour  till  stiff  enough  to  roll,  roll  out  one 
inch  thick,  cut  out  with  a cutter  four  inches  long  by  one  and  a half 
inches  wide.  Sprinkle  a pan  with  corn  meal,  place  in  rolls  and  bake 
at  once  in  a hot  oven  from  half  to  three  quarters  of  an  hour. 

Parher  House  Rolls. — Rub  one-half  tablespoon  of  butter,  and 
one-half  tablespoon  of  lard  into  two  quarts  of  sifted  flour ; into  a 
well  in  the  middle  pour  orie  pint  of  cold  boiled  milk,  and  add  one- 
half  cup  of  yeast,  one-half  cup  sugar,  and  a little  salt.  If  wanted 
for  tea,  rub  the  flour  and  butter,  and  boil  the  milk,  and  cool  it  the 
night  before ; add  sugar,  yeast  and  salt,  and  turn  all  into  the  flour, 
but  do  not  stir.  Let  stand  oVernight ; in  the  morning  stir  up,  knead 
and  let  rise  till  near  tea  time ; mold  and  let  rise  again,  and  bake 
quickly.  To  mold,  cut  with  cake-cutter;  put  a little  melted  butter 
on  one-half  and  lap  nearly  over  on  the  other  half.  Place  them  in 
the  pan  about  three-quarters  of  an  inch  apart. 

Riiig  Rolls. — Make  dough  as  for  Finger  Rolls,  roll  to  the  same 
thickness  In  strips  eight  or  nine  inches  in  length  and  pinch  together 
in  a ring  with  about  three  inches  space  in  the  center.  Be  careful 
not  to  have  the  rolls  of  dough  too  large,  as  they  will  rise. 

Snowflake  Rolls. — Make  like  pie  crust,  roll  pretty  nearly  as  thin, 
cut  into  narrow  strips,  roll  and  twist  them  in  the  hands,  pinch  the 
ends  together  and  bake  in  hot  oven  ten  minutes.  Eat  with  honey. 

Vienna  Rolls. — Have  ready  in  a bowl  a tablespoon  of  butter 
or  lard,  made  soft  by  warming  a little,  and  stirring  with  a spoon. 
Add  to  one  quart  of  unsifted  flour  two  heaping  teaspoons  baking 
powder ; mix  and  sift  thoroughly  together,  and  place  in  a bowl  with 


45 


BREAKFAST  AND  TEA  CAKES. 


butter.  Take  more  or  less  sweet  milk  as  may  be  necessary  to  form 
a dough  of  usual  stiffness,  according  to  the  flour  (about  three-fourthi3 
of  a pint),  put  into  the  milk  half  a teaspoon  of  salt,  and  then  stir 
it  into  the  flour,  etc.,  with  a spoon,  forming  the  dough,  which  turn 
out  on  a board  and  knead  sufficiently  to  make  smooth.  Roll  out 
half  an  inch  thick,  and  cut  with  a large  round  cutter ; fold  each  one 
over  to  form  a half  round,  wetting  a little  between  the  folds  to  make 
them  stick  together ; place  on  buttered  pans,  so  as  not  to  touch,  wash 
over  on  top  with  milk  to  give  them  a gloss,  and  bake  immediately 
in  a hot  oven  about  twenty  minutes.  It  will  do  them  no  harm  to 
stand  half  an  hour  before  baking,  if  it  is  desired. 


Vienna  Rolls. — Two  pounds  flour;  two  cups  milk;  one-half 
cake  compressed  yeast,  or  one-half  cup  potato  yeast ; two  teaspoons 
each  sugar  and  salt.  Make  the  milk  lukewarm  and  dissolve  the 
yeast  in  it.  Set  sponge  at  nine  in  the  morning,  at  noon  add  the  salt 
and  sugar  and  make  up  stiff  dough.  Let  rise  till  about  four.  Then 

work  the  dough  well  on  the 
table  by  pressing  out  and  fold- 
ing over.  Roll  out  the  dough 
in  one  large  sheet  as  thin  as  you 
can,  which  will  be  about  the 
thinness  of  a dinner  plate  edge ; 
then,  measuring  with  hand,  cut 
the  dough  into  strips  or  bands 
as  wide  across  as  hand  is  long. 
Cut  these  again  into  triangular 


Vienna  Rolls. 


pieces  for  rolls,  not  equal  sided  but  long  and  narrow  triangles.  Roll 
these  triangular  pieces  up,  beginning  at  the  broad  bottom  end,  and 
the  point  will  come  up  in  the  middle,  and  there  will  be  a spiral  mark 
around  from  end  to  end.  Give  each  roll  a few  turns  under  the  hands 
to  smooth  it  and  place  it  on  the  baking-pan  in  the  form  of  a crescent 
— just  the  shape  and  size  of  the  new  moon.  Brush  over  with  water 
or  melted  lard.  Let  rise  in  the  pans  about  half  an  hour  and  bake 
about  ten  minutes. 


Wedding  Sandvnch  Rolls. — Late  in  the  evening  make  a rather 
stiff  potato  sponge  (see  directions  under  “Bread-Making”),  and  in 
the  morning  mix  in  as  much  flour  as  will  make  a soft  dough,  knead 
well,  and  place  to  rise ; when  sufficiently  light,  knead  down  again, 
repeating  the  operation  two  or  three  times,  remembering  not  to  let 
the  dough  become  sour  by  rising  too  light ; mold  into  common-sized 
loaves,  place  in  your  dripping-pan  to  rise,  and  bake  very  carefully,  so 
as  to  secure  the  very  slightest  brown  crust  possible.  On  taking  out  of 
the  oven,  roll  in  a cloth  tightly  wrung  out  of  water,  with  a large 
bread-blanket  folded  and  wrapped  around  all.  Let  cool  three  or 
four  hours,  cut  lengthwise  of  the  loaf  (not  using  the  outside  piece)  , 
first  spreading  lightly  with  good  sweet  butter,  then  cutting  in  slices 


BREAKFAST  AND  TEA  CAKES. 


49 


not  more  than  a quarter  of  an  inch,  or  just  as  thin  as  possible,  using 
for  this  purpose  a very  thin,  sharp  knife ; lay  on  cold  boiled  ham 
cut  in  very  thin  shavings  (no  matter  if  in  small  pieces),  roll  up  very 
slowly  and  carefully,  and  place  where  it  will  not  unroll.  Treat  each 
sandwich  in  the  same  manner,  always  spreading  the  bread  with  but- 
ter before  cutting.  If  by  chance  the  bread  is  baked  with  too  hard  a 
crust,  cut  off 'a  thin  shaving  of  the  brownest  part  very  smoothly  be- 
fore making  into  sandwiches.  These  sandwiches  are  truly  delicious 
if  properly  made,  but  they  require  gre*t  care,  experience,  and  good 
judgment.  Served  on  an  oblong  platter,  piled  in  pyramid  style,  row 
upon  row,  they  will  resemble  nicely  rolled  dinner  napkins.  They 
must  be  made  and  served  the  same  day.  The  best  bread  for  use 
for  these  rolls  is  a sort  of  steamed  bread  made 
as  follows  : When  bread  has  raised  in  a single 
loaf  pan,  invert  it  into  an  ordinary  dripping-pan, 
leaving  the  other  pan  still  over  the  loaf.  Bake 
in  this  way.  This  makes  a 
can  be  rolled  at  any  time. 


Wedding  Rolls. 

tougher  bread  than  ordinary,  which 


Winter  Rolls. — Put  three  quarts  flour  into  a large  crock  or 
jar,  scald  one  quart  buttermilk,  add  one  cup  lard,  and  pour  all 
over  the  flour,  beating  it  up  well ; then  add  one  quart  cold  water, 
stir  and  add  one-half  cup  potato  yeast,  or  one  cup  brewer’s ; beat  in 
well  and  set  in  a warm  place  to  rise  overnight.  In  the  morning  add 
salt  and  flour  enough  to  make  a moderately  stiff  dough ; set  in  a 
warm  place  to  rise,  and  when  risen,  knead  down  and  set  to  rise 
again.  This  time  knead  down  and  place  in  a large  stone  crock  or 
bowl,  covered  tightly  with  a tin  pan  to  prevent  the  surface  from 
drying,  and  set  away  in  a cool  place.  When  needed,  turn  out  on  a 
bread-board,  cut  off  a piece  as  large  as  3mu  wish  to  use,  roll  out  to 
the  thickness  of  ordinary  soda  biscuit,  cut,  and  put  in  the  oven  to 
bake  immediately.  Set  away  the  rest  of  the  dough  as  before,  and  it 
will  keep  a week  in  winter,  and  is  very  convenient  for  hot  breakfast- 
rolls. 


Roll  Glaze. — Take  yolks  of  two  eggs  and  twice  their  bulk  in 
water ; put  on  with  brush  when  rolls  or  bread  are  half  baked,  return 
to  oven  and  finish  baking. 


Rusk. — One  pint  milk,  three  eggs,  one  tea-cup  each  of  butter 
and  sugar,  and  one  coffee-cup  potato  yeast ; thicken  with  flour,  and 
sponge  overnight ; in  the  morning  stir  down,  let  rise,  and  stir  down 
again  ; when  it  rises  make  into  a loaf,  and  let  rise  again ; then  roll 
out  like  soda  biscuit,  cut  and  put  in  pans,  and,  when  light,  bake  care- 
fully. Or  when  baking  take  four  cups  dough,  one-half  cup  butter, 
one  cup  sugar,  three  eggs ; mix  thoroughly,  adding  enough  flour  to 
mold  easily ; let  rise,  make  into  rather  high  and  narrow  biscuit,  let 
rise  again,  rub  the  tops  with  a little  sugar  and  water,  then  sprinkle 
over  them  dry  sugar.  Bake  twent\"  minutes. 


50 


BREAKFAST  AND  TEA  CAKES. 


Baking  Powder  Rusk. — Mix  the  beaten  yolks  of  three  eggs 
with  a half  cup  butter  and  one  cup  sugar.  Make  a dough  of  the  con- 
sistency of  bread  dough  of  a quart  of  sifted  flour  wet  with  water^  in 
which  two  heaping  teaspoons  of  baking  powder  and  one  of  salt  has 
been  well  mixed.  Then  add  the  eggs,  butter  and  sugar,  form  into 
little  cakes,  rub  the  tops  with  sugar  and  water,  sprinkle  dry  sugar 
over  them  and  bake  immediately. 

Fancy  Rusk. — Break  an  egg  into  a cup,  beat  light  and  fill  up 
with  milk,  add  half  cup  sponge,  three-fourths  cup  sugar,  one-fourth 
cup  butter,  enough  flour  for  soft  dough  and  a little  cinnamon.  Knead 
well,  let  rise,  knead  again,  form  into  small  rolls  with  buttered  fin- 
gers and  place  in  deep  pan.  Let  them  get  very  light  before  baking. 

Lebanon  Rusk. — One  cup  mashed  potatoes,  one  of  sugar,  one  of 
home-made  yeast,  three  eggs  ; mix  together ; when  raised  light,  add 
half  cup  butter  or  lard,  and  flour  to  make  a soft  dough,  and,  when 
quite  light,  mold  into  small  cakes,  and  let  them  rise  again  before 
baking.  If  wanted  for  tea,  set  about  nine  a.  m. 

Marblehead  Rusk. — Warm  six  ounces  butter,  two  of  sugar  and 
fialf  cup  milk,  or  cream,  with  one  pound  dough,  mix  well,  beat  in 
yolks  of  ten  eggs,  two  at  a time,  and  add  gradually  one  and  one- 
fourth  pounds  flour.  Knead,  set  to  rise,  in  three  hours  knead  again, 
lot  rise,  knead  yet  again,  and  finish  as  French  Rolls,  page  46.  The 
dough  may  be  flavored  with  vanilla,  vanilla  and  rose  mixed,  orange, 
nutmeg,  or  lemon  rind  and  little  juice.  Add  raisins,  currants  and 
citron  if  liked. 

Southern  Egg  Bread. — Two  cups  white  Indian  meal,  one  cup 
cold  boiled  rice,  three  well  beaten  eggs,  one  tablespoon  melted  but- 
ter, two  and  a half  cups  milk,  or  enough  for  a soft  batter,  one  tea- 
spoon salt  and  a pinch  soda.  Stir  the  beaten  eggs  into  the  milk, 
then  the  meal,  salt  and  butter,  and  lastly  of  all  the  rice.^  Beat  up 
well  from  the  bottom  two  or  three  minutes,  and  bake  quickly  in  a 
round  shallow  pan. 

Scones. — Rub  one-fourth  pound  butter  and  enough  sweet  milk 
to  make  a smooth  paste  into  one  quart  sifted  flour  and  two  heaping 
teaspoons  baking  powder.  Roll  out  to  one-fourth  inch  thickness, 
cut  into  triangular  cakes  each  side  about  four  inches  long,  lay  on 
buttered  tin,  and  bake  in  hot  oven.  When  half  done  brush  over 
with  sweet  milk. 

Sally  Lunn. — Sift  into  a pan  a pound  and  a half  flour,  put  in 
two  ounces  butter  warmed  in  a pint  new  milk,  one  saltspoon  salt, 
three  eggs  well  beaten,  and  two  tablespoons  good,  yeast.  Mix  well 
together,  and  put  the  whole  into  a tin  pan  well  greased,  and  set  to 
rise  all  night.  Bake  a little  brown  in  a quick  oven.  Warm  the  milk 
and  butter  over  water  until  the  butter  is  melted ; beat  the  eggs  in  a 


BREAKFAST  AND  TEA  CAKES. 


51 


two-quart  tin  pail,  and  if  the  milk  is  not  hot  pour  it  over  them.  Stir 
in  half  the  flour,  then  add  the  yeast,  stirring  thoroughly  with  the 
rest  of  the  flour.  Let  rise  overnight.  Some  add  two  tablespoons 
sugar  and  use  a teaspoon  soda  and  two  of  cream  tartar  instead  of 
the  yeast. 


Triples. — Three-quarters  cup  cream  (milk  may  be  used  with  a 
teaspoon  butter),  three  eggs  beaten  separately,  scant  teaspoon  baking 
powder,  pinch  each  salt  and  cinnamon  ; flour  to  roll  out ; roll  as  thin 
as  can  be,  cut  into  two-inch  squares,  drop  in  hot  lard  prepared  as 
described  in  doughnut  preface ; place  on  brown  paper  to  drain  and 
sprinkle  with  pulverized  sugar ; or  add  more  milk,  making  batter  a 
little  thicker  than  for  pancakes,  press  through  a meringue  bag  as  de- 
scribed in  confectionery  preface  into  the  hot  lard  in  rings  or  any 
shapes  wished.  When  done  drain  and  sprinkle  as  above.  ^ 

Corn  Meal  WaMes. — To  the  beaten  yolks  of  three  eggs,  add  one 
quart  of  sour  milk  or  butter-milk,  corn  meal  to  make  a batter  a lit' 
tie  thicker  than  for  pancakes,  one  teaspoon  salt,  one 
of  soda  dissolved  in  a little  warm  water,  then  the  well 
beaten  whites.  For  dressing  put  on  the  stove  a half 
cup  cream,  a tablespoon  butter,  and  two  of  sugar ; 
when  hot,  put  two  tablespoons  on  each  waffle  when  wame  iron, 
placed  in  the  dish  to  serve.  Nice  also  for  buckwheat  cakes. 


Quick  WaMes. — Two  pints  sweet  milk,  one  cup  butter  (melted), 
sifted  flour  to  make  a soft  batter ; add  the  well-beaten  yolks  of  six 
eggs,  then  the  beaten  whites,  and  lastly  (just  before  baking)  four 
teaspoons  baking  powder,  beating  very  hard  and  fast  for  a few  mii/-’ 
utes.  These  are  very  good  with  four  or  five  eggs,  but  much  betha 
with  more. 


Raised  WaMes. — One  quart  flour,  one  pint  sweet,  lukewarm 
milk,  two  eggs,  a tablespoon  melted  butter,  teaspoon  salt,  half  tea- 
cup good  yeast. 

Rice  WaMes. — Boil  half  a pint  rice  and  let  it  get  cold,  mix  with 
it  one-fourth  pound  butter  and  a little  salt.  Sift  in  it  one  and  a 
half  pints  flour,  beat  five  eggs  separately,  stir  the  yolks  together  with 
one  quart  milk,  add  whites  beaten  to  a stiff  froth,  beat  hard,  and 
bake  at  once  in  waffle  irons 


WaMes. — Mix  thoroughly  three-fourths  quarts  sifted  flour,  pint 
sweet  milk,  yolk  of  an  egg  and  pinch  salt,  then  add  heaping  tea- 
spoon baking  powder  sifted  with  a little  flour,  beaten  white  of  egg 
and  bake  at  once  ; makes  eight  waffles.  Two  eggs  may  be  used,  also 
tablespoon  melted  butter,  and  sour  milk  and  level  teaspoon  soda, 
instead  of  sweet  milk  and  baking  powder^ 

WaMes^  ( Without  Yeast  or  Soda). — Melt  two  teaspoons  butter 
in  pint  milk,  and  when  cooled  stir  in  half  teaspoon  salt  and 


LIBRARY 

UNIVERSITY  OF  ILLINOIS  ‘ 
AT  URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 


52 


BREAKFAST  AND  TEA  CAKES. 


scant  pint  and  a half  flour.  Beat  whites  and  yolks  of  three  eggs 
separately,  stirring  in  the  yolks  and  then  the  whites  very  lightly. 

Wafers. — One  pint  sifted  flour,  saltspoon  salt,  one  ounce  lard 
or  butter,  white  of  one  egg,  and  sweet  milk  enough  to  make  dough 
to  roll  out.  Beat  with  a rolling  pin  for  twenty  minutes  or  longer. 
Every  stroke  adds  sweetness  to  the  wafers.  Form  dough  into  balls 
size  of  pigeon’s  egg  and  roll  to  size  of  a saucer,  or  as  thin  as  can  he. 
Sprinkle  flour  over  tins  and  bake  with  care.  / 

Sweet  Wafers. — One  pint  flour,  one  cup  sugar,  three  eggs,  one 
tablespoon  butter,  flavor  with  lemon,  mix  into  batter  same  as  for 
cake,  and  bake  in  wafer  irons. 

Walnuts. — Sift  one  quart  of  flour,  take  one-fourth  of  it,  and  add 
rather  mqre  than  half  a cake  compressed  yeast,  -dissolved  in  half  a 
^ill  warm  water,  make  into  sponge  with  a very  little  more  water,  put 
it  in  a warm  place ; when  it  is  double  its  size  make  a hole  in  the 
center  of  the  rest  of  the  flour,  and  put  in  it  a teaspoon  each  salt  and 
smgar,  two  tablespoons  tepid  water,  three-quarters  pound  butter 
and  four  eggs  ; beat  well,  then  add  another  egg,  beat  again,  and  add 
another,  and  so  on  until  seven  have  been  used ; the  paste  must  be 
soft,  but  not  spread;  if  too  firm,  add  another  egg.  Now  mix  this 
paste  thoroughly  with  the  sponge,  beating  until  the  paste  leaves  the 
sides  of  the  bowl,  then  put  it  in  a crock  and  cover ; let  stand  four 
hours  in  a warm  place,  turn  it  out  on  a board,  spread  it  and  double 
it  four  times.,  return  it  to  the  crock,  and  let  it  rise  again  two  hours ; 
repeat  the  former  process  of  doubling  and  spreading,  and  put  it  in  a 
very  cold  place  for  two  hours,  or  until  wanted  for  use.  Mold  in  any 
form  liked,  but  a preferred  way  is  to  make  two  pieces,  one  as  large 
again  as  the  other ; form  the  large  one  into  a ball,  make  a deep  de- 
pression in  the  center,  on  which  place  the  smaller  ball,  pressing  it 
gently  in ; cut  two  or  three  gashes  round  it  with  a sharp  knife,  and 
bake  a beautiful  golden  brown.  These  Walnuts  are  the  same  as  the 
renowned  French  Brioche. 

Weimarlies. — Take  one  quart  bread  dough,  or  make  a sponge 
with  a pint  flour  and  a yeast-cake  soaked  in  half  a pint  warm  water 
or  milk,  then  add  another  pint  flour ; when  light  add  four  tablespoons 
butter,  a little  sugar,  and'  two  eggs  ; work  well.  If  bread  dough  is 
used,  dredge  in  a little  more  flour  on  account  of  eggs,  but  not  very 
much ; let  rise,  and  when  lighter  than  for  bread,  proceed  as  in  making 
rolls  by  pushing  it  down  with  fist  till  not  larger  than  when  put  in  pan ; 
let  rise  and  again  push  down  but  not  so  much  as  before ; let  rise,  and 
push  down  again  ; then  turn  dough  on  molding  board  lightly  floured,^ 
roll  as  pie-crust  into  pieces  six  inches  square,  and  quarter  of  an  inch 
thick,  make  two  sharp,  quick  cuts  across  from  corner  to  corner,  and 
there  will  be  from  each  square,  four  three-cornered  pieces  of  paste ; 
spread  each  thinly  with  soft  butter,  flour  lightly,  and  roll  up,  as  in 
Vienna  Rolls,  (page  48)  very  lightly  from  the  wide  side,  taking  care 


YEAST. 


53 


that  it  is  not  squeezed  together  in  any  way ; lay  them  on  a tin  with 
the  side  on  which  the  point  comes  uppermost,  and  bend  round  in 
the  form  of  a horseshoe ; these  will  take  some  time  to  rise ; when 
they  have  swollen  much  and  look  light,  brusl}  over  with  white  of 
egg  (not  beaten)  or  milk  and  butter,  and  bake  in  a good  oven. 
Kringles  are  made  as  above  only  add  another  egg  and  two  table- 
spoons sugar  (powdered),  and  instead  of  rolling  as  pie-crust,  break 
off  pieces,  roll  between  the  hands  until  thick  as  fingers,  and  form 
into  figure  eights,  rings,  fingers,  or  make  twists 
as  in  cut ; or  take  three  strips,  flour  and  roll 
them  as  thick  as  the  finger,  tapering  at  each 
Twist  Rolls.  end ; lay  them  on  the  board,  fasten  the  three 

together  at  one  end,  and  then  lay  one  over  the  other  in  a plait,  fasten 
the  other  end,  and  set  to  rise  ; bak^,  and  when  done,  brush  over  with 
sugar  dissolved  in  milk,  and  sprinkle  with  sugar. 


Yeast. 

The  best  is  potato  yeast,  with  or  without  hops,  because  bread 
made  with  it  is  moister ; without  hops  there  is  no  danger  of  injuring 
the  flavor  of  the  bread  by  an  excess  of  yeast,  but  there  is  a preserv- 
ing quality  in  hops  that  prevents  the  yeast  from  becoming  sour  as 
soon  as  simple  potato  yeast,  which  is  only  “good  for  one  day.”  The 
proportion  of  hop  yeast  given  in  any  of  our  recipes  will  not  cause 
a bitter  taste.  Dry  yeast  should  be  made  in  May  or  June  for  sum- 
mer use,  and  in  October  for  winter  use.  In  hot  and  damp  weather 
dry  yeast  sometimes  loses  its  vitality ; however,  many  use  it  on  ac- 
count of  its  convenience,  since  there  is  no  danger  of  its  souring  in 
summer  or  freezing  in  winter.  -Soft  hop  or  potato  yeast  will  keep  in 
a cool  place  one  or  two  weeks  in  warm  weather,  and  in  cold  weather 
five  or  six  weeks,  care  being  taken  that  it  does  not  freeze,  but  it 
makes  more  wholesome  bread  to  make  fresh  every  week  or  two  the 
year  round.  Never  add  soda  to  yeast;  if  it  becomes  sour  it  will  do 
to  start  fresh  yeast,  but  will  never  make  good  bread.  Boil  the  hops 
{without  tying  in  a cloth^^'S>  that  keeps  the  pollen,  an  important 
rising  property,  out  of  the  yeast)  in  a new  coffee-pot  and  make  the 
yeast  in  a bright  tin  pan  kept  for  these  purposes  alone.  When  boiled 
thick  like  starch  put  in  a large  jar,  cover,  set  in  a pan  in  a warm 
(not  hot)  jjlace,  and  stir  down  as  it  ferments,  adding  yeast  as  given 
in  recipe,  when  milk  warm.  When  it  is  risen  sufficiently,  which  will 
be  in  about  a day,  a thick  white  scum  rises  to  the  top ; then  place  in 
a stone  or  glass  jar  with  a close  fitting  cover,  or  in  a jug,  on  the  cel- 


54 


YEAST. 


lar  bottom,  in  the  refrigerator,  or  some  other  cool  place.  The  jar  or 
jug  should  be  filled  to  the  brim,  and  the  cork  should  be  loose  for 
first  twelve  hours,  then  tightened  perfectly.  Always  shake  the  jug 
before  taking  out  yeast  for  use.  Extreme  heat  or  freezing  kills  the 
plant,  which  grows  while  fermentation  goes  on.  The  jar  or  jug, 
when  emptied,  should  be  washed  first  in  cold  water,  then  in  soap 
and  water,  and  afterward  in  hot  water,  which  may  be  allowed  to 
stand  a half  hour,  when  pour  out.  Let  jar  cool  and  it  is  ready  for 
use.  The  cork  or  cover  needs  the  same  careful  attention.  Many 
times  the  yeast  is  spoiled  by  want  of  care  and  neatness  in  washing 
the  yeast  jar.  Use  dried  or  pressed,  never  fresh  hops.  Dried  hops 
keep  good  a year,  but  pressed  retain  their  strength  longer,  and  eith- 
er should  be  kept  in  a paper  sack  in  a cool,  dry  place.  Select  hops 
showing  the  pollen  dust,  and  always  boil  them  without  sack,  as  sug- 
gested above.  One  pint  potato  yeast,  one  tea-cup  hop  yeast,  a piece 
compressed  yeast  size  of  a walnut,  and  one  yeast  cake,  or  two-thirds 
tea-cup  yeast  crumbs  are  equal  in  strength.  Well  made  yeast  cakes 
will  keep  good  if  put  in  a tin  box  in  a dry  place  from  two  to  three 
months.  When  yeast  cakes  that  have  been  put  to  soak  are  quite  soft 
mash  them  entirely  and  stir  them  thoroughly  with  the  sponge. 
Their  odor  and  taste  is  sometimes  thought  to  be  given  to  the  bread, 
rendering  their  use  objectionable ; but  if  properly  used  one  cannot 
perceive  any  difference  between  bread  made  with  them  and  withsoit 
yeast.  A difference  of  opinion  exists  in  regard  to  the  use  of  cooked 
and  raw  potatoes  for  yeast.  Individually  we  prefer  the  grated  pota- 
toes, but  others  use  them  boiled  with  good  success.  Boiled  potatoes 
should  be  mashed  fine  and  put  through  a colander  before  using  for 
yeast,  and  raw  ones  must  be  peeled  and  grated  into  a crock  contain- 
ing sufficient  water  to  cover  them,  which  prevents  their  darkening 
and  so  discoloring  the  yeast  and  bread.  Some  grate  the  potatoes 
with  ^ quantity  of  water,  letting  stand  until  they  settle  to  the  bot- 
tom and  then  pouring  off  the  water. 


Dry  Yeast. — Boil  two  large  potatoes  and  a handful  hops  (the 
latter  in  a bag)  in  three  pints  water ; when  done,  take  out  potatoes, 
mash  well,  add  one  pint  flour,  and  pour  the  boiling  hop  water  over 
all ; beat  well  together,  adding  one  tablespoon  salt,  one  of  ginger,  and 
one-half  cup  sugar ; when  lukewarm  add  one  cup  good  yeast  and  let 
stand  two  days  (or  only  one  day  if  very  warm  weather),  stirring 


YEAST. 


55 


down  frequently ; add  good  white  corn  meal  until  thick  enough  t(? 
make  into  cakes  about  half  an  inch  in  thickness  ; place  to  dry  in  the 
shade  (never  expose  to  the  sun  or  to  stove  heat)  where  the  air  will 
pass  freely,  so  as  to  dry  them  as  soon  as  possible,  as  the  fermentation 
goes  on  as  long  as  there  is  any  moisture ; turn  the  cakes  frequently, 
breaking  them  up  somewhat,  or  even  crumbling,  so  they  will  dry  out 
evenly  and  quickly ; when  thoroughly  dried  put  in  a paper  sack  and 
keep  in  a dry  place.  A small  cake  will  make  a sponge  sufficient  to 
bake  five  or  six  ordinary  loaves. 

Yeast. — Pare  and  boil  four  ordinary  sized  potatoes  in  two 
quarts  of  water,  boiling  at  the  same  time  in  a separate  vessel  a good 
handful  hops.  When  potatoes  are  done,  mash  fine,  pass  through  a 
colander,  and  add,  after  straining,  the  water  in  which  the  hops  were 
boiled ; put  into  this  one  cup  white  sugar  and  one-half  cup  salt,  and 
add  sufficient  water  to  m^ke  one  gallon ; when  cold  add  one  cup 
good  yeast,  let  stand  in  a warm  place  for  a few  hours,  until  it  will 
sing  ” on  being  stirred,  when  it  is  ready  for  use.  Keep  covered  in 
a cellar  or  cool  place. 

Farmers’  Yeast. — A yeast  which  is  especially  good  for  the  use 
of  farmers,  and  others  who  use  a great  deal  of  bread  and  bake  fre- 
quently, is  made  as  follows:  -Take  a handful  unpressed  or  two 
ounces  pressed  hops  (those  showing  the  pollen  dust  are  best),  put 
them  in  one  quart  water  with  four  ordinary  potatoes,  and  boil  till 
the  potatoes  are  well  cooked ; mash  all  together,  and  strain  through 
a linen  strainer,  add  flour  enough  to  make  a thick  batter,  a teaspoon 
salt,  a tablespoon  pulverized  ginger  and  half  a cup  sugar ; set  it  back 
on  the  fire  and  let  it  come  to  a boil,  stirring  constantly,  and  set  by 
to  cool ; when  only  milk-warm  add  a cup  old  yeast,  or  two  cakes 
grocers’  dry  hop  yeast,  or  half  a cup  bakers’.  This  will  be  light  in 
two  or  three  hours.  The  yeast' may  be  made  perpetual,  by  saving  a 
cup  when  started,  but  it  must  be  kept  from  freezing  in  winter  and  in 
a cool  place  in  summer.  This  is  a good  mode,  and  acceptable  to  all 
who  prefer  yeast  bread. 

Hop  Yeast. — Place  a handful  hops  in  two  quarts  cold  water, 
boil  slowly  for  a half  hour,  strain  boiling  hot  on  one  pint  flour  and 
one  tablespoon  salt  (gradually  at  first  in  order  to  mix  smoothly) ; 
when  lukewarm  add  a half  pint  yeast,  and  set  in  a warm  place  to 
rise.  When  light,  cover  and  keep  in  a cool  place. 

Lightning  Yeast.— a half-cup  warm  water  add  a pinch  each 
salt  and  sugar  and  stir  in  corn  meal  until  quite  thick.  Put  in  a 
warm  place  overnight,  or  stirred  in  the  morning  and  kept  warm  it 
will  be  light  in  a few  hours.  Put  about  two  tablespoons  of  this 
lightning  into  your  rising  and  it  will  be  up  in  an  hour.  The  yeast 
will  not  look  very  light  but  will  be  very  porous. 

Potato  Yeast. — Boil  one  cup  hops  in  two  quarts  water  fifteen 


56 


YEAST. 


minutes.  While  hops  are  boiling  grate  five  good-sized  Irish  potatoes 
as  directed  in  yeast  preface,  add  one  cup  white  sugar  and  one  table- 
spoon each  salt  and  ginger.  Pour  this  mixture  into  the  bright  tin 
yeast  pan  and  strain  the  hop  water  upon  it.  Cook  from  five  to  ten 
minutes,  stirring  occasionally,  when  it  will  boil  up  thick  like  starch ; 
some  do  not  boil  the  mixture,  simply  turn  the  boiling  hop  water  over 
it ; turn  into  a jar,  and  when  just  tepid  in  summer,  or  quite  warm  in 
winter,  add  one-half  pint  good  yeast  (always  save  some  to  start 
with) ; set  jar  in  a large  tin  pan,  and  as  often  as  it  rises  stir  down 
until  fermentation  ceases,  when  it  will  be  quite  thin.  Cover  closely, 
set  away  in  a cool  place,  and  it  will  keep  two  weeks.  When  yeast 
smells  sour  but  does  not  taste  sour  it  is  still  good ; if  it  has  no  smell 
it  is  dead.  One  cup  will  make  six  good-sized  loaves. 

Potato-Ball  Yeast. — Boil  and  mash  four  or  five  medium-sized 
potatoes,  or  enough  to  make  about  a pint^  add  scant  tablespoon  each 
salt,  white  sugar  and  when  cool  a half  package  compressed  yeast,  or  if 
you  cannot  get  the  compressed,  take  half  cake  dry  yeast,  soak  in  as 
little  water  as  possible  and  add ; mold  into  a ball,  lay  away  where  it 
yfill  not  freeze  ; after  a day  prepare  potatoes  in  same  way  except  that 
instead  of  adding  yeast  when  cool,  add  first  ball,  work  together 
thoroughly  and  mold  into  two  balls  of  same  size.  These  are  ready 
for  use  any  time  after  twelve  hours,  and  one  will  be  sufficient  to  raise 
four  ordinary  loaves.  Set  sponge  overnight,  dissolving  the  potato 
ball  in  about  a quart'  lukewarm  water,  which  will  be  sufficient  wet- 
ting. A supply  of  this  yeast  can  be  kept  on  hand  by  preparing  po- 
tatoes and  making  a new  ball  as  above  directed  the  day  before  baking. 

Potato  Yeast  Without  Hops. — Four  good-sized  potatoes  peeled, 
boiled  and  mashed,  four  tablespoons  white  sugar,  one  of  ginger,  one 
of  salt,  two  cups  flour ; pour  over  this  a pint  boiling  water,  and  beat 
till  all  the  lumps  disappear.  After  itTias  cooled,  add  to  it  one  cup 
good  yeast,  and  set  away  to  rise , when  risen  put  in  glass  or  stone 
jar,  cover  and  set  away  in  a cool  place. 

Yeast  without  Yeast. — This  requires  no  yeast  to  raise  it,  and 
has  been  called  the  ‘‘  best  yeast  in  the  world.”  Monday  morning, 
boil  one  pint  hops  in  two  gallons  water  for  half  an  hour,  strain  into 
a crock  and  let  the  liquid  become  lukewarm,  add  two  even  teaspoons 
salt  and  half  a pint  best  brown  sugar ; mix  half  a pint  flour  smooth 
with  some  of  the  liquor  and  stir  all  well  together.  On  Wednesday, 
add  three  pounds  potatoes  boiled  and  mashed,  stir  well  and  let  stand 
till  Thursday,  then  strain  and  put  in  stone  jugs,  but  for  the  first  day 
or  two  leave  the  corks  quite  loose.  Stir  the  yeast  occasionally  while 
making,  and  keep  near  the  fire.  It  should  be  made  two  weeks  before 
using,  and  will  keep  any  length  of  time,  improving  with  age.  Keep 
it  in  a cool  place  and  shake  the  jug  before  pouring  from  it,  but  with 
the  cork  out,  holding  the  palm  of  the  hand  over  the  mouth  to  pre- 
vent the  escape  of  the  yeast.  ) 


TOAST. 


57 


Yahoo  Yeast. — Mix  one  quart  flour,  one  teacup  sugar,  two  tea- 
spoons alum  with  warm  water  to  a creamy  consistency,  and  add  one 
teacup  yeast.  When  well  risei^it  can  be  made  into  cakes  with  meal 
and  dried  ; or  for  Saltless  Yeast.,  wash,  pare  and  boil  six  potatoes ; 
when  done,  pour  potatoes  and  water  upon  half  quart  flour  in  pan, 
mash  to  a smooth  paste,  add  more  boiling  water  if  needed,  one 
tablespoon  sugar  and  thin  with  ice  water  till  like  thick  cream.  When 
tepid,  add  half  pint  yeast  and  flnish  as  directed  in  general  directions. 
Some  claim  that  grated  raw  potato  j^east  can  in  winter  be  frozen 
solid  and  kept  so,  thawing  as  wanted  and  then  refreezing.  This 
might  be  well  worth  trying. 


Toast. 


Although  toast  is  commonly  used,  few  know  how  to  prepare  it 
nicely.  Take  bread  not  too  fresh,  cut  thin  and  evenly,  trim  ofi*  the 
crust-edges  for  the  crumb-jar ; first  warm  each  side  of  the  bread,  then 
present  the  first  side  again  to  the  fire  until  it  takes  on  a rich,  even 
brown  color ; treat  the  other  side  in  the  same  way.  The  coals  should 
be  bright  and  hot.  Toast  properly  made  is  very  digestible,  because 
all  the  moisture  is  extracted,  and  the  bread  has  become  pure  farina 
of  wheat;  but  when  it  is  exposed  to  a hot  fire  and  the  outside 
charred,  the  inside  remains  as  moist  as  ever, 
and  butter  applied  to  it  while  warm  does  not 
penetrate,  but  floats  on  the  surface  in  the 
form  of  rancid  oil.  Vegetable  and  meat 
toasts  are  improved  by  dipping  the  slices  in 
a shallow  dish  of  hot  water,  slightly  salted, 
in  which  a piece  of  butter  has  been  melted. 


made  after  the  recipe  gW,n  is  an  excellent  foundation  for  the  various 


dishes  under  this  heading,  as  it  may  be  prepared  in  a quantity  and 
kept  a long  time,  and  is  thus  always  at  hand. 

Anchooy  Toast. — Slice  bread  the  day  after  baking,  and  toast  iv 
evenly  and  quickly ; renj.ove  the  crust,  spread  with  a little  liutter, 
and  then  with  anchovy  butter  made  as  follows  : Scrape  the  skin 
from  a dozen  fine  anchovies,  take  the  flesh  from  the  bones,  pound  it 
smooth  in  a nioHar ; rub  +hrono;h  n,  hnir-sieve,  put  the  anchovies 


58 


TOAST. 


into  the  mortar  with  three-fourths  pound  fresh  butter,  a small  quan- 
tity cayenne,  and  a saltspoon  each  of  grated  nutmeg  and  mace ; heat 
thgether  until  thoroughly  blended.  # 

Asparagus  Toast. — Wash  the  asparagus  clean,  cut  off  the  white 
part  except  a mere  end,  put  into  slightly  salted  boiling  water,  boil 
five  minutes,  pour  off  water,  add  more  boiling  hot ; boil  ten  to  fifteen 
minutes,  then  put  in  a lump  of  butter,  salt  and  pepper  ( some  stir  in 
a thickening  made  of  one  teaspoon  flour  mixed  up  with  cold  water)  ; 
cut  and  toast  thin  slices  of  bread,  spread  with  butter  and  put  in  a 
dish,  and  over  them  turn  asparagus  and  gravy.  The  water  must  be 
boiled  down  until  just  enough  for  the  gravy,  which  is  made  as 
above. 

BreaMast  Toast. — Chop  cold  steak  or  tongue  very  fine,  cook  in 
a little  water,  put  in  cream  or  milk,  thicken,  season  with  butter,  salt 
and  pepper,  and  pour  it  over  slices  of  toast.  Cold  boiled  beef  oj 
fried  liver  may  be  used  instead  of  steak.  Prepare  boiled  ham  in  the 
same  way,  adding  the  yolk  of  an  egg. 

Buttered  Toast. — Toast  slices  of  bread  as  directed  in  preface, 
butter  well  and  serve  immediately ; or,  beat  one  cup  butter  and  three 
tablespoons  flour  to  a cream.,  pour  over  this  one  and  a half  pints 
hoiling  water;  place  over  a kettle  of  boilirg  water  for  ten  minutes, 
dip  into  it  the  toast,  and  serve  hot ; or,  dip  each  slice  of  toast  in 
boiling  hot  water  (slightly  salted),  spread  with  butter,  cover  and 
keep  hot. 

Cheese  and  Egg  Toast. — Melt  a cup  cheese  crumbs  in  a half 
pint  rich  milk  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper  and  butter  to  taste,  and 
stir  in  two  well  beaten  eggs.  Cook  a few  minutes,  stirring  constantly. 
Spread  over  toasted  bread  and  serve  on  hot  platter. 

Cream  Toast. — Scald  but  do  not  boil  one  quart  milk,  salted,  and 
thicken  with  two  tablespoons  flour  or  one  of  corn  starch;  add  two 
tablespoons  butter  and  the  whipped  whites  of  three  eggs  or  a gill  of 
cream.  Boil  up  once  and  pour  over  the  toast,  lifting  each  lower 
slice  so  that  the  mixture  may  penetrate  them.  The  slices  of  toast 
should  first  be  dipped  into  a shallow  dish  of  hot  water  into  which  a 
tablespoon  of  butter  has  been  melted.  Excellent  without  the  egg  or 
cream. 

Chicken  Toast. — Prepare  the  meat  as  for  beefsteak  toast,  using 
with  or  instead  of  cream  or  milk  the  gravy  from  the  chicken  when 
you  have  it.  Delicious. 

Codhsh  Toast. — Make  a codfish  cream  as  given  in  “Fish  Reci- 
pes'^ and  pour  over  slices  of  nicely  buttered  toast.  Chipped  dried 
beef  may  be  served  in  same  way.  ' % 


TOAST. 


59 


Dry  Toast. — After  bread  dough  has  been  prepared  for  biscuits 
by  adding  egg,  butter  and  sugar,  make  into  long,  narrow  loaves, 
place  in  pan,  let  rise  and  bake.  Day  after  baking  slice  thin,  put  in 
large  baking  pan  and  brown  in  oven,  turning  and  browning  other 
side.  A quantity  can  be  browned,  or  brown  as  needed  each  day. 
Serve  with  soup,  or  very  nice  broken  in  milk,  tea  or  coffee. 

Egg  Toast. — Break  eggs  in  sufficient  boiling  hot  (but  not  really 
boiling)  water  to  cover  them,  slightly  salted.  Simmer  gently  until 
the  eggs  are  delicately  cooked,  or  until  the  yolks  are  covered  with  a 
white  film.  Take  them  up  with  a skimmer,  and  lay  each  on  a slice 
of  buttered  toast,  previously  dipped  in  salted  hot  water.  Butter  and 
pepper  may  be  added  at  table,  and  eat  with  Worcestershire  sauce. 
This  is  an  unexcelled  breakfast  dish. 

Excellent  Toast. — Cut  slices  of  a uniform  thickness  of  half  an 
inch ; move  around  over  a brisk  fire,  to  have  all  parts  toasted  alike ; 
keep  only  so  near  the  coals  that  the  pieces  will  be  heated  through 
when  both  sides  are  well  browned.  If  the  slightest  point  is  blacken- 
ed or  charred,  scrape  it  off*  or  it  will  spoil  the  flavor  of  the  whole. 
If  covered  with  an  earthen  bowl,  it  will  keep  both  warm  and  moist. 
A clean  towel  or  napkin  will  answer  if  it  is  to  go  at  once  to  the  table. 
Stale  bread  may  be  used  for  milk-toast ; sour  bread  may  be  improv- 
ed by  toasting  it  through,  but  sweet,  light  bread,  only  a day  old  or 
less,  makek  the  best  toast. 

Erencli  Toast. — Add  to  one-half  pint  sweet  milk  two  table- 
spoons sugar,  a little  salt  and  a well-beaten  egg ; dip  in  this  slices  of 
bread  (if  dry,  let  it  soak  a minute),  fry  on  a buttered  griddle  until  it 
is  a light  brown  on  each  side ; sprinkle  with  sugar  and  serve.  This 
is  a good  way  to  use  dry  bread. 

Lemon  Toast. — Into  three  cups  sweet  milk  stir  the  well-beaten 
-yolks  of  six  eggs..  Dip  slices  of  bread  iilto  the  mixture  and  fry  in 
butter  to  a delicate  brown ; froth  the  whites  of  the  eggs,  add  a large 
cup  white  sugar,  two  cups  boiling  water,  and  the  juice  and  a little  of 
the  grated  rind  of  two  lemons.  Pour  this  juice  over  the  toast  and 
you  have  a delicious  supper  dish. 

Mennonite  Toast. — Beat  up  three  eggs  well,  add  a pint  sweet 
milk  and  a pinch  salt ; cut  slices  an  inch  thick  from  a loaf  baker’s 
bread,  remove  crust,  dip  slices  into  the  eggs  and  milk,  fry  like  dough- 
nuts in  very  hot  lard  or  drippings,  till  a delicate  brown,  butter  and 
sprinkle  with  powdered  sugar,  and  serve  hot. 

Oyster  Toast. — Prepare  an  oyster  stew  with  plenty  of  milk, 
lightly  seasoned  with  butter  or  cream  if- you  have  it,  pepper,  salt, 
etc.,  and  pour  over  slices  of  toast  previously  dipped  in  hot  water. 
Place  oysters  carefully  on  the  slices  and  serve  on  hot  platter. 


60 


TOAST. 


Sausage  Toast. — Is  made  by  scalding  the  sausages  in  boiling 
water,  frying  to  light  brown,  chop  fine,  and  spread  on  bits  of  toast. 

# 

Tomato  Toast. — Run  a quart  of  stewed  ripe  tomatoes  through 
a colander,  place  in  a porcelain  stew-pan,  season  with  butter,  pepper 
and  salt  and  sugar  to  taste ; cut  slices  of  bread  thin,  brown  on  both 
sides,  butter  and  lay  on  a platter,  and  just  as  the  bell  rings  for  tea 
add  a pint  of  good  sweet  cream  to  the  stewed  tomatoes,  and  pour 
them  over  toast. 

Marrow-Bone  Toast. — Cover  two  beef  shinbones,  five  to  seven 
inches  long,  with  dough  and  wrap  in  muslin ; cover  with  hot  water 
and  boil  an  hour  and  a half.  Remove  cloth  and  dough,  shake  or 
draw  out  the  marrow  with  a fork  upon  slices  of  hot  toast ; season  • 
with  salt,  a bit  of  cayenne  and  a little  chopped  celery. 

Oyster  Toast. — Take  one  and  a half  dozen  nice  oysters,  chop 
fine,  put  in  saucepan  with  some  of  their  liquor,  add  pepper  and  a 
small  pinch  of  nutmeg ; cook  a minute  or  two,  stir  in  the  beaten 
yolks  of  two  eggs  and  a gill  of  cream ; let  boil  up  once,  add  salt  and 
pour  over  slices  of  buttered  bread ; serve  hot. 

Salmon  Toast. — Mince  some  canned  salmon  fine,  put  in  sauce- 
pan with  a little  milk  or  cream,  let  heat,  season  and  serve  on  toast. 
Poaching  egg  and  placing  on  center  of  each  slice  of  toast,  putting 
the  salmon  around  the  egg,  is  a more  elaborate  manner  of  serving, 
and  is  very  delicious 

Tongue  Toast. — Put  finely  chopped  cold  tongue  in  saucepan 
with  a little  water ; when  heated  add  a small  lump  butter,  salt  and 
pepper,  then  stir  in  two  beaten  eggs  and  pour  mixture  on  each  slice 
of  toast ; or  add  with  the  seasoning  milk  to  make  quite  a gravy; 
stir  in  a little  thickening  of  flour  and  water,  let  boil  a few  moments, 
and  pour  over  the  toast  without  adding  eggs.  The  latter  way  is  good 
for  any  bits  of  meat,  fowl  or  game,  and  requires  less  than  without 
the  milk. 

Water  Toast. — Cut  either  white  or  Graham  bread  into  slices  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  trim  off  crusts  and  brown  in  a moderate 
oven,  as  in  Dry  Toast  recipe.  This  is  the  way  to  prepare  all  toasts, 
as  all  the  moisture  is  thus  evaporated,  while  holding  before  the  fire 
only  warms  the  moisture,  making  inside  of  bread  doughy  and  indi- 
gestible. For  dry  toasts  butter  slightly  and  serve  in  a folded  napkin 
if  wished  hot,  as  racks  allow  heat  to  escape ; dip  edges  into  hot 
water  quickly,  and  'butter  at  once.  In  making  milk  toast,  the 
utensil  to  be  used  in  cold  water,  as  this  will  prevent  burning 


CAKE  MAKING. 


61 


* 


CAKE  MAKIISTG-. 


“ Let  all  things  be  done  decently  and  in  order,”  and  the  first  to 
put  in  order  when  yon  are  going  to  hake  is  yourself.  Secure  the 
hair  in  a net  or  other  covering,  to  prevent  any  from  falling,  and 
brush  the  shoulders  and  back  to  be  sure  none  are  lodged  there  that 
might  blow  off ; make  the  hands  and  finger  nails  clean,  roll  the 
sleeves  up  above  the  elbows,  and  put  on  a large,  clean  apron.  Clean 
the  kitchen  table  of  utensils  and  every  thing  not  needed,  and  pro- 
vide every  thing  that  will  be  needed  until  the  cake  is  baked,  not 
forgetting  even  the  broom-splints  previously  picked  off  the  new 

broom  and  laid  away  carefully  in  a litt].e 
box.  (A  knitting  or  trussing-needle  may 
be  kept  for  testing  cake  instead  of  splints). 
If  it  is  warm  weather,  place  the  eggs  in 
cold  water,  and  let  stand  a few  minutes,  as 
they  will  then  make  finer  froth ; and  be 
sure  they  are  fresh,  as  they  will  not  make  a stiff  froth  after  any 
amount  of  beating  if  old.  To  beat  eggs  quickly,  add  a pinch  of 
salt,  which  cools  and  freshens  them.  Break  the  eggs  one  at  a time 
into  a saucer  so  that  if  there  he  a bad  one  it  will  not  spoil  the  others, 
and  carefully  remove  all  specks  before  heating.  The  cake-tins  should 
be  prepared  before  the  cake,  when  baking  powder  is  used,  as  it  effer- 
vesces hut  once,  and  there  should  be  no  delay  in  baking,  as  the  mix- 
ture should  he  made  firm  by  the  heat  while  the  effervescing  process 
is  going  on.  Grease  the  pans  with  fresh  lard,  or  American  Cooking 
Oil,  either  of  which  is  much  better  than  butter ; line  the  bottom  with 
paper,  using  six  or  eight  thicknesses  if  the  cake  is  large,  and  greas- 


Fluted  Cake  Pan, 


62 


CAKE  MAKING. 


ing  ihe  top  one  well.  (In  some  ovens,  however,  fewer  thicknesses 
of  paper  would  he  needed  on  the  bottom,  and  in  some  the  sides  also 
should  be  lined  with  one  or  two  thicknesses.)  Never  bake  cakes  or 
confectionery  that  contain  no  shortening  on  buttered  paper  or  tin. 
Use  fine,  clean  manilla  paper,  obtained  for  the  purpose,  instead. 
Sift  iJouT  and  sugar  (if  not  pulverized),  and  measure  or  Aveigh. 
Firkin  or  very  salt  butter  should  be  cut  in  bits  and  washed  to  fresh- 
en a little ; if  very  hard,  Avarm  carefully,  but  in  no  case  alloAV  any  of  • 
it  to  melt.  Good  butter  must  be  used,  as  the  heat  develops  any 
latent  bad  qualities.  Use  pulverized  sugar  for  all  delicate  cakes; 
for  rich  cakes  coffee-crushed,  powdered  and  sifted ; for  dark  cakes, 
the  best  broAvn  sugars  are  best;  for  jelly-cakes,  light  fruit  cakes,  etc., 
fine  granulated  and  coffee  “A”  are  best  and  most  economical.  In 
ordering  granulated  sugar  always  specify  the  iine  which  is  cheaper 
and  much  better  for  all  uses  than  the  coarse.  Beat  the  yolks  of 
eggs  thoroughly,  or  until  they  assume  a light,  froth  appearance 
(this  is  as  important  as  to  whip  the  whites,)  and  strain  ; set  the  whites 
away  in  a cool  place  until  the  cake  is  ready  for  them,  then  beat  them 
vigorously  in  a cool  room  till  they  Avill  remain  in  the  dish  Avhen 
turned  upside  down.  Rinse  the  cup  or  boAvl  used  for  yolks  Avith 
part  of  the  milk ; remember  this  in  all  cooking  Avhe're  yolks  and 
milk  are  used.  Sift  a part  of  the  measured  flour  with  the  baking 
pOAvder  or  soda  and  cream  tartar  through  a hand- 
sieve  (Avhich  should  be  among  the  utensils  of  ev- 
ery housekeeper),  and  mix  thoroughly  Avith  the 
J:est  of  the  flour.  In  using  neAV  flour  for  either 
bread  or  cake-making,  it  can  be  “ripened”  for 
use  by  placing  the  quantity  intended  for  baking 
in  the  hot  sun  for  a feAv  hours,  or  before  the 
kitchen  fire.  In  using  milk,  note  this  : that  sour  sieve, 

milk  makes  a spongy,  light  cake ; SAveet  milk,  one  that  cuts  like 
pound  cake ; remembering  that  AAuth  sour  milk  soda  alone  is  used, 
while  with  SAveet  milk  baking  poAvder  or  soda  and  cream  tartar  are 
to  be  added. 

HaAung  thus  gathered  the  material,  cut  butter  (in  cold  weather) 
into  small  pieces,  and  Avarm,  not  the  butter  to  a cream, 

then  add  the  sugar  and  beat  again  to  a cream,  add  the  milk  in  small 
quantities  (never  use  fresh  and  stale  milk  in  same  cake),  next  the 
yolks  of  eggs,  then  a part  of  the  flour,  then  a part  of  the  Avhites,  and 


CAKE  MAKING. 


63 


SO  on  until  the  whole  is  used ; lastly,  add  the  flavoring.  Many  good 
cake-makers  first  stir  the  milk  and  flavoring  into  the  creamed  butter 
and  sugar,  then  the  yolks,  next  the  whites,  and  lastly  the  flour,  first 
taking  about  two-thirds  of  it  and  thoroughly  mixing  the  baking 
powder  through  it ; the  remainder  of  the  flour  is  then  left  to  be  used 
at  discretion.  A little  more  or  less  flour  may  be 
needed,  according  to  the  climate,  or  to  the  kind  of 
flour  used,  as  the  ^‘New  Process  ” flour  requires  one- 
eighth  less  than  other  brands.  There  is  great  “knack” 


Plain  Cake  Pan. 


in  beating  cake ; don’t  stir^  but  heat  thoroughly,  bringing  the  batter 
up  from  the  bottom  of  the  dish  at  every  stroke ; in  this  way  the  air  is 
driven  into  the  cells  of  the  batter,  instead  of  out  of  them — but  the  cells 
will  be  finer  if  beaten  more  slowly  at  the  last,  remembering  that  the 
motion  should  always  be  upward  and  the  spoon  always  come  up  full. 
In  winter  it  is  easier  to  beat  with  the  hand,  but  in  summer  a wooden  or 
silver  spoon  is  better,  and  a wooden 
paddle  is  best,  though  some  prefer  the 

peculiar  form  of  spoon  given  in  our  Beating  Spoon, 

illustration,  the  spaces  through  the  bowl  of  which  double  the  amount 
of  work  done  by  it  in  beating  cakes,  eggs,  etc.  An  iron  spoon 
turns  the  mixture  dark.  Never  beat  a cake  in  tin,  but  use  earthen 
or  stoneware.  Unskillful  mixing,  too  rapid  or  unequal  baking,  or  a 
sudden  decrease  in  heat  before  it  is  quite  done,  will  cause  streaks  in 
the  cake.  Always  bake  a small  cake  first ; fill  a patty  pan,  or  cover 
to  a baking-powder  can,  one-third  full,  and  bake ; then  add  more  or 
less  flour  as  required.  If  the  cake  is  hard  and  solid,  it  needs  a few 
teaspoons  of  milk ; if  more  flour  is  needed  it  will  fall  in  the  middle 
and  be  spongy  and  crumbly.  Powdered  sugar  may  be  sifted  on  the 
top  of  any  cake  while  it  is  a little  warm ; if  it  dissolves  add  more 
when  it  is  cold ; keep  some  for  that  pur- 
pose  in  a spice  box  with  a perforated  top. 

Cake  Paddle.  The  wlflte  portion  of  orange  or  lemon-peel 

should  never  be  used ; grate  only  the  yellow.  When  recipes  call  for 
soda  and  cream  of  tartar,  baking  powder  may  be  used  by  taking  a 
quantity  equal  to  both.  “Milk”  always  means  sweet  milk.  “A  cup” 
always  means  a ^e<2-cup,  not  a coffee-cup.  But  in  making  any  recipe 
if  the  same  size  cup  is  used  in  measuring  the  ingredients,  the  result 
will  be  the  same.  The  regulation  tea-cup  means  two  gills,  and  as  tea 
and  coffee-cups  vary  so  in  size  now,  a set  of  regular  measures,  quarts. 


54 


CAKE  MAKING. 


pints,  gills,  etc.,  would  be  advisable,  two  sets  being  really  necessary, 
so  as  to  have  one  of  each  size  for  measuring  dry  articles,  flour, 
sugar,  etc.  In  using  recipes  given  by  weight,  if  scales  are  not  at  hand, 
the  table  of  weights  and  measures  given  in  back  part  of  book  will 
be  found  a reliable  guide.  Sour  milk  may  always 
be  used  instead  of  sweet,  by  using  soda  only. 

The  proportions  of  raising  powder  to  one  quart  of 
flour  are  two  heaping  teaspoons  baking  powder,  or 
one  teaspoon  soda  and  two  teaspoons  cream  tartar, 
or  one  pint  sour  milk  and  one  level  teaspoon  soda.  Owing  to  the 
alarming  adulterations  in  cooking  materials,  a chemist  advises  using 
tartaric  acid  instead  of  cream  of  tartar.  It  costs  about  twice  as 
much,  but  only  half  the  quantity  is  needed. 

In  blanching  almonds,  do  not  put  them  into  the  water  until  it 
e»3mes  to  a boil ; let  boil  a few  minutes  after  nuts  are  put  in,  then 
throw  them  into  cold  water,  slip  off  the  skins  and  dry  them  in  the 
open  air.  Do  not  dry  them  in  the  oven,  which  takes  away  the  oil. 
Prepare  the  day  before  wanted. 

Fruit,  wedding  and  black  cake  keep  well  in  waxed  paper,  but  bet- 
ter and  longer  if  wrapped  in  tin  foil,  or  wrap  in  clean  towel  or  nap- 
kin wet  in  alcohol  or  whisky,  re-wetting  occasionally,  say  once  a 
week,  and  set  in  a cool  place. 

Chocolate  loaf  and  white  sponge  or  delicate  cake  can  be  made  to 
advantage  at  the  same  time,  using  yolks  of  eggs  for  former  and  whites 
for  latter.  Cut  into  squares  and  heaped  together  in  the  cake  basket 
they  present  an  agreeable  appearance. 

To  make  an  economical  marble  cake,  any  ordinary  cake  recipe 
vill  do,  using  whites  of  eggs  and  white  sugjy  with  .lemon  flavoring 
for  the  light  part,  and  the  yolks,  brown  sugar  and  spices,  or  grated 
chocolate,  for  the  dark,  taking  for  each, part  half  the  quantity  given 
in  the  recipe.  Layer  cakes  may  be  varied  in  the  same  way,  alternat- 
ing dark  and  light  layers  when  putting  together ; or,  stir  fruit  into 
one  or  two  layers.  Clarified  butter  is  much  better  than  either  lard 
or  butter  for  greasing  cake  pans,  and  is  prepared  by  putting  butter 
over  the  fire  in  a porcelain  bowl  or  farina  boiler  until  the  white 
cheesy  grains  have  formed  in  it.  Then  set  to  one  side,  skim  off  all 
that  rises  to  the  top,  settle  and  strain  and  bottle  for  future  use.  It 
will  keep  for  years,  and  should  be  always  at  hand,  as  beside  its  su- 
periority for  the  purpose  named  above,  it  is  especially  prized  for  fry- 


CAKE  MAKING. 


65 


ing  oysters,  croquettes,  fritters,  etc.  If  the  butter  is  stale  or  rancid, 
after  skimming  it  put  in  one  or  more  slices  of  toasted  bread,  which 
will  absorb  the  offensive  taste  or  odor  in  a few  minutes. 

FRUIT  CAKE. 

Most  ladies  think  fruit  cake  quite  incomplete  without 
wine  or  brandy,  but  it  can  be  made  equally  good  on  strictly 
temperance  principles,  by  substituting  one-third  cup  molasses  for  a 
wineglass  of  brandy.  The  objection  to  the  use  of  brandy  in  sauces 
does  not,  however,  hold  good  against  that  used  in  cake 
making,  as  the  alcohol  is  converted  to  vapor  by  the  heat 
and  passes  off  with  the  other  gases.  There  are  many, 
however,  who  object  to  the  use  of  liquors  in  any  way  and 
to  keeping  them  in  the  house,  and  such  will  find  the  above  an  excel- 
lent and  cheap  substitute. 

Raisins  should  never  be  washed,  as  it  is  difficult  to  dry  out  the 
moisture  absorbed  by  them,  and  every  particle  of  moisture  retained 
tends  to  make  the  cake  heavy.  To  remove  the  stems  and  extraneous 
matter,  place  the  raisins  in  a coarse  towel  and  rub  them  in  this  un- 
til as  clean  as  rubbing  will  make  them ; then  pick  over  carefully,  re- 
moving any  stems  or  other  defects  which  may  be  left.  The  raisins 
should  be  prepared  -before  the  cake,  sprinkled  with  flour,  and  added 
the  last  thing  before  putting  it  in  oven,  as  being  heavy,  they  sink 
to  the  bottom  if  allowed  to  stand.  To  seed,  clip  with  the  scissors  or 
cut  with  a sharp  knife.  Do  not  chop  too  fine  ; if  for  light  fruit  cake 
seeding  is  all  that  is  necessary.  Slice  the  citron  thin,  and  do  not 
have  the  pieces  too  large,  or  they  will  cause  the  cake  to  break  apart 
in  cutting.  Currants  should  be  kept  prepared  for  use  as  follows: 
Wash  in  warm  water,  rubbing  well,  pour  off  water,  and  repeat  until 
the  water  is  clear ; drain  them  in  a sieve  spread  on  a cloth  and  rub 
dry ; pick  out  bad  ones,  dry  carefully  in  a cool  oven  or  in  the 
‘‘  heater  ” (or  in  the  sun  and  wind,  with  a thin  gauze  over  them  to 
keep  off  flies,  insects  and  dust),  and  set  away  for  use.  When  the 
fruit  is  all  mixed,  cream  the  butter  and  sugar — this  is  very  impor- 
tant in  all  cakes — add  the  spices,  molasses,  or  liquors,  then  the  milk 
(if  any  used),  next  the  eggs  well  beaten,  adding  whites  with  the  flour 
as  previously  directed.  Always  beat  whites  and  yolks  separately. 
Next  add  the  flour  (which,  in  making  black  fruit  cake,  may  be 
browned),  prepared  with  baking  powder  or  soda  and  cream  tartar, 

5 


66 


CAKE  MAKING. 


then  the  flavoring  (lemon  and  vanilla,  in  equal  parts,  make  the  best 
flavoring),  and  lastly  the  fruit  dredged  with  divery  little  flour.  Some 
prefer  to  mix  the  fruit  with  all  the  flour.  When  but  little  fruit  is 
used  it  may  be  dropped  into  the  dough  after  it  is  in  the  pan,  and 
pushed  just  beneath  the  surface,  which  prevents  it  from  settling’ to 
the  bottom.  The  batter  for  fruit  cake  should  be  quite  stiff. 

In  making  very  large  cakes  that  require  three  or  four  hours  to 
bake,  an  excellent  way  for  lining  the  pan  is  the  following : Fit  three 
papers  carefully,  grease  thoroughly,  make  a paste  of  equal  parts 
Graham  and  fine  flour,  wet  with  water  just  stiff  enough  to  spread 
easily  with  a spoon,  place  the  first  paper  in  the  pan  with  the  greased 
side  down,  and  spread  the  paste  evenly  over  the  paper  about  as 
thick  as  pie-crust.  In  covering  the  sides  of  the  pan,  use  a little  paste 
to  stick  a portion  of  the  paper  to  the  top  of  the  pan  to  keep  it  from 
slipping  out  of  place,  press  the  second  paper  carefulh^  into  its  place, 
with  the  greased  side  up,  and  next  put  in  the  third  paper  as  you 
would  into  any  baking  pan,  and  pour  in  the  cake.  Earthen  pans 
are  used  by  some,  as  they  do  not  heat  so  quickly  and  are  less  liable 
to  burn  the  cake. 

When  using  a milk-pan,  or  pans  without  stems,  a glass  bottle 
filled  with  shot  to  give  it  weight,  well  greased,  may  be  placed  in  the 
center  of  the  pan,  or  a stem  may  be  made  of  paste-board,  rolled  up, 
but  the  latter  is  more  troublesome  to  keep  in  place.  The  cake  is  apt 
to  burn  around  the  edges  before  it  is  done  unless  there  is  a tube  in 
the  center. 

This  handled  strainer  is  made  in  several  sizes  and  is  not  only  a 
convenience  in  cake  making  for  straining  yolks,  etc.,  but  is  also  very 
useful  for  straining  drinks  for  nursery 
and  sick  room,  yeast,  blanc  mange,  gra- 
vies, custards,  syrups,  jellies,  and  for  sift- 
ing sugar  upon  fruit,  cakes  and  pies, 
and  sifting  salt  into  butter,  excluding 
all  lumps.  The  strainer  may  be  placed  over  a tumbler  or  bowl,  rest- 
ing on  the  knob  on  one  side  and  handle  on  the  other. 

All  except  layer  cakes  should  be  covered  .with  a paper  cap,  (ora 
sheet  of  brown  paper,  which  the  careful  housewife  will  save  from  her 
grocers’  packages),  when  first  put  into  the  oven.  Take  a square  of 
brown  paper  large  enough  to  cover  well  the  cake  pan,  cut  off  the  cor- 
ners and  lay  a plait  on  four  sides,  fastening  each  with  a pin  so  as  to 


Handled  Strainer. 


CAKE-MAKING. 


67 


fit  nicely  over  the  pan.  This  will  throw  it  up  in  the  center,  so  that 
the  cover  will  not  touch  the  cake.  Save  the  cap,  as  it  can  be  used 
several  times. 

Before  commencing,  clean  out  the  stove,  take  off  the  lids  and 
brush  inside,  rake  it  out  underneath,  get  all  the  ashes  out  of  the  cor- 
ners, have  the  best  of  fuel  at  hand.  Don’t  build  a baking  fire  before 
it  is  needed,  have  it  only  moderate,  and  add  the  extra  fuel  in  time 
to  get  it  nicely  burning. 

THE  OVEN. 

Too  much  care  cannot  be  given  to  the  preparation  of  the 
oven,  which  is  oftener  too  hot  than  too  cool ; however,  an  oven 
too  cold  at  first  will  ruin  any  cake.  But  fruit  cake  requires  a very 
moderate  oven — not  hot  enough  to  thoroughly  brown  apiece  of  com- 
mon white  note-paper  in  less  than  an  hour — ^and  a loaf  of  ordinary 
size  requires  from  three  to  four  hours  to  bake.  Cake  should  rise  and 
begin  to  bake  before  browning  much,  large  cakes  requiring  a good, 
steady,  solid  heat,  about  such  as  for  baking  bread ; layer  cakes,  a 
brisk,  hot  fire,  as  they  must  be  baked  quickly.  A good  plan  is  to  fill 
the  stove  with  hard  wood  (ash  is  the  best  for  baking), let  it  burn  un- 
til there  is  a good  body  of  heat,  and  then  turn  damper  so  as  to 
throw  the  heat  to  the  bottom  of  the  oven  for  fully  ten  minutes  be- 
fore the  cake  is  put  in.  In  this  way  a steady  heat  to  start  with  is  se- 
cured. Generally  it  is  better  to  close  the  hearth  when  the  cake  is  put 
in,  as  this  stops  the  draft  and  makes  a more  regular  heat.  Keep 
adding  wood  in  small  quantities,  for  if  the  heat  becomes  slack  the 
cake  will  be  heavy.  Great  care  must  be  taken,  for  some  stoves  need 
to  have  the  dampers  changed  every  now  and  then,  but  as  a rule  more 
heat  is  needed  at  the  bottom  of  the  oven  than  at  the  top.  Many 
test  their  ovens  in  this  way : if  the  hand  can  be  held  in  from  twenty 
to  thirty-five  seconds  (or  while  counting  twenty  or  thirty-five),  it  is 
a “quick”  oven,  from  thirty-five  to  forty-five  seconds  is  “moderate,” 
and  from  forty-five  to  sixty  seconds  is  “slow.”  Sixty  seconds  is  a 
good  oven  to  begin  with  for  large  fruit  cakes.  All  systematic  house- 
keepers will  hail  the  day  when  some  enterprising  person  shall  in- 
vent a stove  or  range  with  a thermometer  attached  to  the  oven,  so 
that  the  heat  may  be  regulated  accurately  and  intelligently.  A good 
test  for  baking  sponge  cake  is  to  place  a piece  of  white  paper  in  the 
oven  and  let  it  brown.  If  it  browns,  not  chars,  in  ten  minutes  the 


68 


CAKE-MAKING. 


oven  is  right  for  the  cake.  If  necessary  to  move  the  cake  while 
baking,  do  it  very  gently.'  Do  not  open  the  oven  door  until  the  cake 
has  had  time  to  form,  and  do  not  open  it  oftener  than  necessary, 
then  be  careful  to  close  it  quickly  and  gently,  so  as  not  to  jar  the 
cake.  Be  sure  the  outside  door  of  the  kitchen  is  closed  so  that  no 
cold  air  may  strike  it.  If  the  oven  bakes  too  hard  on  the  bottom, 
place  the  grate  under  the  pan ; ii  too  hot  on  top,  set 
a pie-pan  of  water  on  the  top  grate.  If  one  side  bakes 
faster  than  the  other,  turn  very  gently.  Be  careful 
not  to  remove  from  the  oven  until  done;  test  thor- 
oughly before  removing,  for  if  the  cooler  air  strikes  it  before 
it  is  done  it  is  certain  to  fall.  Allow  about  thirty  minutes 
for  each  inch  of  thickness  in  a quick  oven,  and  more  time 
in  a slow  one.  Test  with  a broom-splint  or  knitting-needle, 
and  if  the  dough  does  not  adhere,  it  is  done.  Settling  away  from 
the  pan  a little,  and  stopping  its  “singing,”  are  other  indications  that 
the  cake  is  ready  to  leave  the  oven.  When  removed,  set  the  cake, 
while  in  the  pan,  on  an  inverted  sieve  to  cool ; this  secures  a free 
circulation  of  air  all  around  it,  and  cools  it  evenly.  It  should  re- 
main in  the  pan  at  least  fifteen  minutes  after  taking  from  the  oven, 
and  it  is  better  to  leave  the  ‘cap”  on  until  the  cake  is  carefully  re- 
moved from  the  pan  and  set  away,  always  right  side  up.  A tin  chest 
or  stone  jar  is  best  to  keep  it  in.  Coffee  cake  should  be  put  away 
before  it  is  cold,  and  so  closely  wrapped  in  a large  napkin  that  the 
aroma  will  not  be  lost. 

The  patent  pan  with  perforated  cover,  illustrated,  is  highly 
recommended  for  baking  cakes.  Cakes  in  fanc}^  forms  are  baked 
in  molds,  the  Turkish-head  mold  being  most  commonly  used. 
When  baking  in  a brick  oven  the  mold  is  used  with  a cover,  but 
in  a stove  oven  the  cover  is  removed  and  a stem  placed  inside,  but 
can  be  used  without  stem.  If  mold  when  inverted  has  not  suffi- 
cient base  (most  molds  are  more  or  less  conical)  to  stand  in  oven, 
make  a pasteboard  box  which  will  support  it,  as  heat  sufficient  to 
bake  any  delicate  or  fruit  cake  will  not  burn  the  jjasteboard.  Many 
persons  frost  the  bottom  of  cake  instead  of  the  top,  as  it  presents 
a smooth  surface. 


Patent  Pan. 


SPONGE  AND  WHITE  CAKES. 

The  good  quality  of  all  delicate  cake,  especially  of  sponge-cake. 


CAKE  MAKING, 


6^ 


depends  very  much  upon  its  being  made  with  fresh  eggs.  It  can 
never  be  perfect  unless  pulverized  sugar  is  used.  It  must  be  quickly 
put  together,  beaten  with  rapidity,  and  baked  in  a 
rather  quick  oven.  It  is  made  “ sticky  ” and  less 
light  by  being  stirred  long.  There  is  no  other  cake 
so  dependent  upon  care  and  good  judgment 
in  baking  as  sponge-cake.  In  making 
swhite  cake,  if  not  convenient  to  use  the 
yolks  that  are  left,  they  will  keep  for  sever- 
al days  if  thoroughly  beaten  and  set  in  a 
cool  place.  The  whites  of  eggs,  when  not 
used,  must  not  be  beaten,  but  will  keep  for 
several  days  if  set  in  a cool  place.  The 
white  or  yolk  of  a medium-sized  egg  weighs 
one  ounce,  a fact  that  it  is  convenient  to  know,  as 
sometimes  the  white  or  yolk  of  one  or  more  eggs 
is  wanted  from  several  that  have  been  put  away  Dover  Egg  Beater, 
together.  Whenever  it  is  necessary  to  cut  a cake  while  warm, 
do  it  with  a warm  knife.  To  prepare  cocoa-nut,  cut  a hole 
through  the  meat  at  one  of  the  holes  in  the  end,  draw  off  the  milk, 
pound  the  nut  well  on  all  sides  to  loosen  the  meat,  crack,  take 
out  meat,  and  set  the  pieces  in  the  heater  or  in  a cool,  open  oven 
overnight,  or  for  a few  hours,  to  dry,  then  grate ; if  all  is  not  used, 
sprinkle  with  sugar  (after  grating)  and  spread  out  in  a cool,  dry 
place,  and  it  will  keep  for  weeks.  If  dessicated  is  used  moisten 
with  milk  before  using. 


Wire  Whisk, 


Almond,  Hickory-nut  or  Cocoa-nut  Cake. — One  pound  flour, 
half  teaspoon  salt,  fourth  pound  butter,  pound  sugar,  tea-cup  sour 
cream,  four  eggs,  lemon  flavor  to  taste,  and  a teaspoon  soda  dissolv- 
ed in  two  teaspoons  hot  water ; mix  all  thoroughly,  grate  in  the 
white  part  of  a cocoa  nut,  or  stir  in  a pint  chopped  hickory-nuts,  or 
a pint  blanched  almonds  pounded. 

Almond  Cake.  — Blanch  and  pound  to  a paste  three  ounces 
sweet  and  one  ounce  bitter  almonds,  shelled.  To  three-fourths 
pound  sugar  gradually  add  yolks  of  twenty-four  eggs  and  stir  until 
light,  then  add  the  almond  pulp,  the  juice  and  grated  rind  one  lem- 
on, a pinch  mace,  and  beat  until  it  thickens.  Beat  whites  six  eggs 
to  a firm  froth,  adding  by  pinches  a tablespoon  powdered  sugar  and 
stir  it  in,  one-third  at  a time,  with  the  above  mixture.  Lastly  add 


70 


CAKE  MAKING. 


four  ounces  flour  well  sifted  with  one  ounce  corn  starch.  Mix  well, 
pour  into  round  pans  two  inches  thick,  if  it  is  to  be  iced,  or  into 
square  pans  one  inch  thick  if  intended  for  slicing,  bake  in  moderate 
oven  and  turn  out  at  once. 

Angel  Cake. — Whites  twelve  eggs,  one  and  one-half  tumblers 
sifted  powdered  sugar,  one  tumbler  sifted  flour,  one  teaspoon  each 
vanilla  and  cream  tartar.  The  tumblers  for  meas- 
uring should  hold  two  and  one-fourth  gills.  Beat 
eggs  in  a bowl  to  as  flne  a froth  as  possible  and  add 
one-half  tumbler  sifted  sugar,  gradually  beating  in 
two  tablespoons  at  a time,  and  stir  into  this  mix- 
ture  the  teaspoon  vanilla ; sift  the  cream  tartar  with  the  flour,  then 
sift  flour  and  remaining  tumbler  sugar  together  four  times,  and  put 
with  the  first  mixture  with  as  little  stirring  as  will  mix  and  combine 
them  thoroughly  and  smoothly.  The  dough  should  be  very  light 
and  feathery.  Test  the  oven  by  laying  in  it  a piece  of  white  paper, 
which  should  brown,  not  char,  in  ten  minutes.  A pan  made  express- 
ly for  this  purpose  should  be  used,  and  can  be  ordered  of  any  tinner. 
It  should  be  about  eight  inches  in  diameter,  three  inches  deep,  with 
a funnel  in  the  center  two  inches  in  diameter  at  the  bottom  tapering 
to  an  inch  and  a half  at  top,  and  be  provided  with  legs  half  an  inch 
high.  May  be  smooth  or  fluted  edges  as  preferred.  Do  not  grease 
the  pan,  but  line  it  with  clean  manilla  paper  kept  for  the  purpose. 
Bake  forty  minutes  and  do  not  open  the  oven  for  the  first  fifteen.  It 
should  rise  to  the  top  of  the  pan  but  may  shrink  a little.  When  done 
turn  the  piin  upside  down  and  let  stand  one  hour,  when  if  it  does 
not  drop  out  readily  the  edges  may  be  carefully  loosened  with  a 
knife.  Ice  the  hottoin  with  transparent  glaze  made  as  follows  : Take 
one  and  one-half  cups  sifted  powdered  sugar,  whites  two  eggs  that 
have  not  been  beaten,  and  as  much  cold  water  as  eggs ; stir  very 
hard  with  a whisk  or  egg  beater  until  perfectly  smooth ; now  add 
three-fourths  cup  of  confectioner’s  sugar  known  as  “ XXX,”  and 
enough  water  to  bring  it  to  a smooth  paste  free  from  lumps,  adding 
the  sugar  a little  at  a time  and  stirring  constantly.  Ice  cake  smoothly 
with  this  and  set  in  a real  hot  oven  for  a second  or  two  to  harden. 
If  preferred  use  boiled  icing.  Any  cake  pan  may  be  used,  but  it 
should  be  placed  on  a pie  tin  while  baking.  It  is  well  to  cover 
with  the  paper  cap,  heretofore  described,  while  baking. 

Apple  Cake. — Soak  two  cups  dried  apples  over  night,  in  the- 
morning  drain  and  chop  fine  in  chopping  bowl ; add  one  cup  mo- 
lasses and  let  it  boil  slowly  on  back  of  stove  three  or  four  hours  ; let 
it  cool  and  add  one  and  a half  cups  brown  sugar,  one  cup  butter,  half 
cup  sour  milk,  one  teaspoon  each  cloves,  allspice  and  cinnamon,  one 
teaspoon  soda,  three  eggs,  three  and  one-half  cups  flour ; bake  in  two 
square  tins,  or  one  five-quart  basin ; if  baked  in  latter,  bake  slowly 
two  hours.  Very  nice  and  will  keep  six  months. 


CAKE  MAKING. 


71 


Black  Cake. — One  pound  powdered  white  sugar,  three-quarters 
pound  butter,  pound  sifted  flour  (brown  or  not  as  preferred),  twelve 
eggs  beaten  separately,  two  pounds  raisins  stoned  and  part  of  them 
chopped,  two  of  currants  carefully  cleaned,  half  pound  citron  cut  in 
strips,  quarter  ounce  each  cinnamon,  nutmeg  and  cloves  mixed,  wine- 
glass wine  and  one  of  brandy ; rub  butter  and  sugar  together,  add 
yolks  of  eggs,  part  of  flour,  the  spice,  and  whites  of  eggs  well  beaten ; 
then  add  remainder  of  flour,  and  wine  and  brandy ; mix  all  thor- 
oughly together ; cover  bottom  and  sides  of  a four-quart  milk-pan 
with  buttered  white  paper,  put  in  a layer  of  the  mixture,  then  a layer 
of  the  fruit  (first  dredging  the  fruit  with  flour)  until  pan  is  filled  up 
three  or  four  inches.  A small  cup  of  Orleans  molasses  makes  the 
cake  blacker  and  more  moist,  but  for  this  it  is  not  necessary  to  add 
more  flour.  Bake  three  and  one-half  or  four  hours  in  a slow  oven. 
This  is  excellent. 

Black  Cake. — Two  cups  brown  sugar,  one  and  one-half  cups 
butter,  six  eggs  beaten  separately,  three  cups  flour  (brown  the  flour), 
two  tablespoons  molasses,  one  of  cinnamon,  one  teaspoon  each  mace 
and  cloves,  two  cups  sweet  milk,  two  pounds  each  raisins  and  cur- 
rants, a half  pound  citron,  one  teaspoon  soda,  two  of  cream  tartar. 
Bake  three  hours. 

Bread  Cake. — Three  coffee-cups  yeast  dough,  light  enough  to 
bake  for  bread,  two  and  two-thirds  cups  sugar,  one  cup  butter,  three 
eggs,  one  nutmeg ; put  all  together,  and  work  with  the  hands  until 
smooth  as  pound-cake.  It  is  very  important  that  all  should  be 
mixed  very  thoroughly  with  the  light  dough.  Add  raisins  and  as 
much  fruit  as  desired,  and  let  rise  half  an  hour  in  the  pans  in  which 
you  bake.  The  oven  should  be  about  right  for  bread.  This  is  easily 
made,  and  is  quite  as  nice  as  common  loaf-cake.  Leave  out  fruit 
and  add  from  a half  to  a whole  tablespoon  caraway,  coriander,  card- 
amon, or  fennel  seeds,  or  a mixture  of  all,  and  this  recipe  makes  a 
nice  Seed  Cake. 

Bread  Cake. — Two  cups  light  bread  dough,  one  and  one-half 
cups  sugar,  half  cup  butter,  three  tablespoons  sour  milk  in  which  has 
been  dissolved  half  teaspoon  soda,  half  a grated  nutmeg,  teaspoon 
cinnamon,  cup  raisins  chopped  a little  and  floured ; stir  all  well  to- 
gether, adding  fruit  last ; let  rise  half  an  hour  and  bake  in  a mod- 
erate oven. 

Bride’s  Cake. — Whites  twelve  eggs,  three  cups  sugar,  small  cup 
butter,  cup  sweet  milk,  four  small  cups  flour,  half  cup  corn  starch, 
-wo  teaspoons  baking  powder,  lemon  to  taste.  A perfect  cake.  Ad- 
ding a cup  citron  sliced  thin  and  dusted  with  flour  makes  a beauti- 
ful Citron  Cake. 

Bride  Cake. — One  pound  each  butter  and  sugar,  one  gi?l  double 
cream,  one-half  pint  brandy,  one  pound  two  ounces  flour,  two  pounds 


72 


CAKE  MAKING. 


zante  currants,  washed  and  picked,  two  pounds  raisins,  seeded  and 
chopped,  two  pounds  sultanas,  washed,  picked  and  dried,  one  and 
one-half  pounds  citron,  cut  into  long,  thin  strips,  two  tablespoons 
cinnamon,  two  grated  nutmegs,  one  teaspoon  mace,  one  tablespoon 
each  powdered  cloves,  powdered  allspice  and  orange  flower  water. 
Rub  butter  and  sugar  together  until  smooth ; whip  whites  sixteen 
eggs  to  stiff  froth  and  stir  them  into  the  cream,  one-third  at  a time, 
working  until  smooth ; mix  flour  with  fruits  and  spices  until  all  are 
evenly  diffused  and  stir  all  together,  adding  the  orange  flower  last. 
Beat  the  whole  very  lively,  pour  into  long,  square 
pans  lined  with  buttered  paper,  smooth  over 
with  wet  knife  blade,  and  bake  in  moderate  oven 
three  hours.  If  too  hot  at  bottom  put  several 
folds  of  paper  under  pans,  or  cover  with  paper 
if  too  hot  at  top.  Do  not  turn  out  until  cold.  Rub  with  flour,  wipe 
with  cloth,  ice  with  white  of  egg  icing  and  finish  with  chocolate 
icing.  Will  keep  for  a year  or  more.  If  to  be  eaten  within  a week 
or  two  no  brandy  is  needed.  When  properly  and  carefully  made, 
one  of  the  richest  and  best. 

Buckeye  Cake. — One  cup  butter,  two  of  white  sugar,  four  of 
sifted  flour,  five  eggs  beaten  separately,  one  cup  sour  milk,  teaspoon 
soda,  pound  seeded  raisins  chopped  a little ; beat  the  butter  and 
sugar  to  a cream,  add  the  yolks  and  milk,  and  stir  in  the  flour  with 
soda  well  mixed  through  it ; then  add  the  whites  of  eggs  beaten  to  a 
stiff  froth,  and  lastly  the  raisins  dredged  with  a little  flour;  (one- 
fourth  pound  sliced  citron  is  a nice  addition) ; bake  one  and  one- 
half  hours.  Use  coffee-cups  to  measure.  This  makes  a cake  for  a 
six-quart  pan,  or  two  large  loaves,  and  is  a very  economical  yet  de- 
licious fruit  cake.  In  making  half  the  recipe  use  three  yolks  and 
two  whites  for  the  cake,  reserving  the  extra  white  for  frosting. 

Caramel  Cake. — One  cup  butter,  two  of  sugar,  a scant  cup  milk, 
one  and  a half  cups  flour,  cup  cornstarch,  whites  seven  eggs,  three 
teaspoons  baking  powder  in  the  flour ; bake  in  a long  pan.  Take 
half  pound  brown  sugar,  scant  quarter  pound  chocolate,  half  cup 
milk,  butter  size  of  an  egg,  two  teaspoons  vanilla ; mix  thoroughly 
and  cook  as  syrup  until  stiff  enough  to  spread ; spread  on  cake  and 
set  in  the  oven  to  dry . 

Carolina  Cake  (Without  eggs). — Rub  two  large  tablespoons 
butter  into  one  coffee-cup  powdered  sugar,  add  one-half  cup  sweet 
cream,  one-half  teaspoon  soda,  one  and  one-half  cups  flour ; bake 
quickly  in  small  tins  or  gem-pans,  and  send  to  table  warm. 

Charlotte  Cachee  Cake. — Cut  a thick  loaf  of  sponge  or  other 
plain  cake  into  five  or  six  slices  horizontally  of  uniform  width.  Spread 
each  slice  with  jelly,  using  first  tart  and  then  sweet  jelly  if  you  have 
both,  fit  them  together  again  in  the  loaf  and  ice  all  over  with  the 
whipped  whites  of  five  eggs  and  enough  powdered  sugar  to  make  a 


CAKE-MAKING. 


rrr, 
i O 


stiff  icing,  adding  the  juice  of  one  lemon.  Set  in  slow  oven  for  a few 
minutes  to  harden.  A quick  and  easy  way  to  prepare  a fancy  cake 
for  tea  when  company  appears  unexpectedly. 

Cheap  Cake. — Beat  two  eggs  in  a cup  and  fill  up 
with  thick  sour  cream ; add  one  cup  sugar,  one  and 
one-half  cups  flour,  one  even  teaspoon  soda.  Flavor  smaii  cake  Tins, 
to  taste  and  bake  in  small  pans.  May  be  iced  and  marked  in  gold, 
as  in  directions  for  icing. 

CJiOGolate  CakQ. — One  cup  butter,  three  of  brown  sugar,  one  of 
sweet  milk,  four  of  flour,  yolks  seven  eggs,  nine  tablespoons  grated 
Baker’s  chocolate,  three  teaspoons  baking  powder.  This  may  be 
baked  as  a layer  cake,  making  a white  cake  of  whites  of  eggs,  baking 
in  layers  and  putting  them  together  with  frosting,  alternating  the 
layers. 

Chocolate  Marhle  Cake. — Make  a batter  as  for  white  cake,  take 
out  one  cup,  add  to  it  five  tablespoons  grated  chocolate,  moisteu 
with  milk  and  flavor  with  vanilla ; pour  a layer  of  the  white  battei 
into  the  baking-pan,  then  drop  the  chocolate  batter  with  a spoon  in 
spots,  and  spread  the  remainder  of  the  white  batter  over  it. 

Cincinnati  Cake. — Pour  over  one  pound  fat  salt  pork,  chopped 
fine  and  free  from  lean  and  rind,  one  pint  boiling  water ; let  stand 
until  nearly  cold ; add  two  cups  brown  sugar,  one  of  molasses,  one 
tablespoon  each  cloves  and  nutmeg,  and  two  of  cinnamon,  two 
pounds  raisins,*  fourth  pound  citron,  half  glass  brandy,  three  tea- 
spoons baking  powder,  and  seven  cups  sifted  flour.  Bake  slowly 
two  and  a half  hours.  This  is  excellent,  and  requires  neither  butter 
nor  eggs. 

Citron  Cake. — One  cup  butter,  two  of  sugar,  three  of  flour,  four 
eggs,  one  cup  milk,  one  teaspoon  soda,  two  of  cream  tartar,  and 
pinch  salt.  After  the  above  has  been  put  in  the  pan,  cut  the  citron 
thin  and  put  into  the  cake  endways,  pushing  down  until  the  batter 
covers  it.  This  will  prevent  the  citron  falling  to  the  bottom. 

Cocoa-nut  Cake. — One  cup  butter,  three  of  sugar,  one  sweet  milk, 
four  and  a half  flour,  four  eggs  with  whites  beaten  to  a stiff  froth,  a 
teaspoon  soda,  two  of  cream  tartar,  one  grated  cocoa-nut  or  one- 
fourth  pound  prepared  cocoanut. 

Corn- Starch  Cake. — Two  coffee-cups  pulverized  sugar,  three- 
fourths  cup  butter,  cup  corn  starch  dissolved  in  cup  sweet  milk,  two 
cups  flour,  whites  seven  eggs,  two  teaspoons  cream  tartar  teaspoon 
soda,  or  two  teaspoons  baking  powder  mixed  thoroughly  with  flour ; 
cream  butter  and  sugar,  add  starch  and  milk,  then  add  whites  and 
flour  gradually  until  all  is  used.  Flavor  with  lemon  or  rose. 

Coifee  Cake. — Two  cups  brown  sugar,  one  of  butter,  one  of  mo- 


74 


CAKE-MAKING. 


iasses,  one  of  strong  coffee  as  prepared  for  the  table,  four  eggs,  one 
teaspoon  saleratus,  two  each  cinnamon  and  cloves,  one  of  grated 
nutmeg,  pound  each  raisins  and  currants,  four  cups  flour. 

Coifee  Cake. — One  cup  brown  sugar,  cup  molasses,  half  cup 
butter,  cup  strong  coffee,  one  egg  or  3mlks  of  two,  four  even  cups 
flour,  heaping  teaspoon  soda  in  the  flour,  tablespoon  cinnampn,  tea- 
spoon cloves,  two  pounds  raisins,  fourth  pound  citron.  Soften  the 
butter,  beat  with  the  sugar,  add  the  egg,  spices,  molasses,  and  coffee, 
then  the  flour,  and  lastly  the  fruit  dredged  with  a little  flour.  Bake 
one  hour  in  moderate  oven,  or  make  in  two  smah  loaves  which  will 
bake  in  a short  time.  This  may  be  made  vdthout  the  egg. 

Delicate  Cake. — Three  cups  sifted  flour,  two  ot  sugar,  three- 
fourths  cup  sweet  milk,  whites  ot  six  eggs,  half  cup  butter,  teaspoon 
cream  tartar,  half  teaspoon  soda.  Flavor  with  lemon.  Good  and 
easily  made. 

Delicate  Cake. — Cream  one-half  pound  butter  with  one  pound 
powdered  sugar,  add  whites  sixteen  eggs  beaten  stiff,  half  a nutmeg 
grated,  and  one  teaspoon  rose  water.  Stir  well  together  and  add 
gradually  one  pound  sifted  flour.  Bake  at  once  in  moderate  oven. 

Eggless  Cake. — One  and  a halt  teacups  sugar,  one  of  sour  milk, 
three  (level)  of  sifted  flour,  half  cup  butter,  teaspoon  soda,  half  tea- 
spoon cinnamon,  half  teaspoon  grated  nutmeg,  cup  raisins  chopped 
and  well  floured. 

Eggless  Cake  ( Plain ).^One  cup  sugar,  half  cup  butter,  half 
cup  sweet  milk,  two  cups  flour,  one  teaspoon  cream  tartar,  half  tea- 
spoon soda. 

Everlasting  Cake. — Beat  together  the  yolks  of  six  eggs  and 
three-fourths  pint  white  sugar,  add  one  and  a half  pints  blanched 
and  shelled  almonds,  half  pound  sliced  citron  well  floured,  and  the 
whipped  whites  with  one  and  a half  pints  sifted  flour ; pour  one  and 
a half  inches  thick  in  well-greased  dripping  pans,  bake  in  a quick 
oven,  and,  when  done,  cut  slices  one  inch  thick  across  the  cake,  turn 
each  slice  over  on  its  side,  return  to  oven  and  bake  a short  time. 
When  cold  place  in  a tin  box.  These  will  keep  a year  and  a half  or 
more. 

Ejection  Cake. — Five  pounds  sifted  flour,  two  of  butter,  two  of 
sugar,  three  gills  distillery  yeast,  or  twice  the  quantity  of  home 
brewed,  four  eggs,  gill  each  wine  and  brandy,  one  quart  sweet  milk, 
half  an  ounce  of  nutmeg,  two  pounds  raisins,  one  of  citron ; rub  but- 
ter and  flour  together  very  fine,  add  half  the  sugar,  then  the  yeast 
and  half  the  milk  (hot  in  winter,  blood-warm  in  summer),  then  add 
eggs,  then  remainder  of  milk  and  the  wine ; beat  well  and  let  rise  in  a 
warm  place  all  night ; in  the  morning  beat  a long  L.me,  adding  brandy, 
sugar,  spice,  and  fruit  well  floured,  and  allow  to  rise  again  very  lights 


CAKE-MAKING. 


75 


;after  which  put  in  cake  pans  and  let  rise  ten  or  fifteen  minutes  ; have 
the  oven  about  as  hot  as  for  bread.  This  cake  will  keep  any  length  of 
time.  For  raised  cakes  use  potato  yeast  if  fresh  made ; it  is  alwaya 
a perfect  success.  This  recipe  is  over  one  hundred  years  old. 

Feather  Cake. — One  cup  white  sugar,  one  teaspoon  melted  but- 
ter, one  egg,  two-thirds  cup  milk,  two  cups  sifted  flour,  two  tea- 
spoons cream  tartar  and  one  of  soda  sifted  in  flour.  Flavor  with 
lemon.  Delicious  and  cheap. 

Fig  Cake. — Two  cups  sugar,  one  small  cup  butter,  one  cup 
sweet  milk,  three  and  one-half  cups  flour,  whites  eight  eggs  beaten 
stiff,  two  teaspoons  baking  powder,  one  pound  figs  split ; put  in  a 
layer  of  batter  and  then  one  of  figs,  and  so  on  until  all  is  used. 

Choice  Fig  Cake. — A large  cup  butter,  two  and  a half  of  sugar, 
one  of  sweet  milk,  three  pints  flour  wuth  three  teaspoons  baking  pow- 
der, whites  sixteen  eggs,  a pound  and  a quarter  figs  well  floured  and 
cut  in  strips  like  citron ; no  flavoring. 

Marlled  Fig  Cake. — Light  part : one  cup  sugar,  one-third  cup 
butter,  one-third  cup  sweet  milk,  four  eggs,  whites  only,  one  and  one- 
half  teaspoons  baking  powder,  one  and  one-half  cups  flour.  Dark 
part : one-half  cup  brown  sugar,  one-third  cup  butter,  one-third  cup 
milk,  one  teaspoon  baking  powder,  one  cup  flour,  four  egg-yolks  and 
one  whole  egg,  one  teaspoon  allspice,  one  teaspoon  cinnamon,  one 
pound  figs  sliced  ; put  in  a layer  of  the  dark  with  figs  on  top,  then  a 
layer  of  the  light,  and  so  on  till  all  is  used,  in  a deep  cake-pan. 


Fruit  Cake. — One  cup  butter,  one  of  brown  sugar,  half  pint  mo- 
lasses, two  eggs,  cup  sour  milk,  teaspoon  soda,  pound  each  flour  and 
currants,  one  and  a half  pound  raisins.  Flavor  to  taste.  This  has 
been  thoroughly  tested  and  is  a great  favorite. 


Fruit  Cake. — Twelve  eggs,  one  and  a half  pounds  each  of  but- 
ter, sugar^and  flour,  two  pounds  each  raisins  and  currants,  one  pound 
citron,  one  half  pint  molasses,  one  ounce  each 
nutmeg,  mace  and  cloves,  one  and  a half  glasses 
jelly  (grape  is- best),  one-fourth  pint  each  wine 
and  brandy,  more  flour  if  needed.  Put  dough  in 
pans,  set  in  steamer,  taking  care  that  the  cover  is  made  to  fit  very 
tight ; if  necessary,  put  cloth  under  the  lid  and  shut  it  down  on  it, 
taking  care  that  it  does  not  touch  the  cake,  or  lay  several  thicknesses 
of  cloth  over  the  lid.  Steam  two  hours  and  bake  one  hour. 


Fruit  Cake. 


Fruit  Loaf  Cake. — One  cup  butter,  two  brown  sugar,  one  New 
Orleans  molasses,  one  sweet  milk,  three  eggs,  five  cups  sifted  flour, 
two  teaspoons  cream  tartar  in  the  flour,  teaspoon  soda  in  the  milk, 
tablespoon  cinnamon,  one  nutmeg,  one  pound  each  raisins  and  cur- 
rants, quarter  pound  citron  (citron  may  be  omitted,  and  half  the 


76 


CAKE-MAKING. 


quantity  of  raisins  and  currants  will  do).  Put  flour  in  a large  crock, 
mix  well  with  cream  tartar,  make  a well  in  the  center,  put  in  other 
ingredients,  having  warmed  the  butter  and  molasses  a little ; mix 
well  together  with  the  hands,  putting  in  the  fruit  last  after  it  has 
been  floured ; bake  two  hours  in  a moderate  oven.  This  will  make 
two  common  sized  loaves. 

Fruit  Cahe. — One  pound  each  brown  sugar,  butter,  eggs  and 
flour,  two  each  raisins  and  currants,  half  pound  citron,  a nutmeg, 
tablespoon  cloves,  one  of  allspice,  half  pint  brandy,  and  two  tea- 
spoons baking  powder.  After  baking,  while  yet  warm,  pour  over 
cake  a half  pint  wine.  This  makes  the  cake  delicious. 

Excellent  Fruit  Oahe. — One  and  a half  pounds  raisins,  one 
and  a fourth  pounds  currants,  three-fourths  pound  citron,  pound 
each  butter  and  sugar,  one  and  one-fourth  pounds  flour,  ten  eggs, 
two  tablespoons  lemon,  two  teaspoons  yeast  powder ; mix  a fourth 
pound  of  the  flour  in  the  fruit. 

German  Fruit  GaJce. — Sift  one  pound  flour  into  pan  in  a heap 
and  make  a hole  in  the  top  ; in  this  put  half  teaspoon  salt,  one  tea- 
spoon cinnamon,  twelve  ounces  butter,  and  two  ounces  pulverized 
sugar  Mix  and  add  yolks  of  eight  eggs  and  a little  cold  water, 
leaving  it  a stiff  dough ; wrap  it  in  a clean  cloth,  and  set  in  a cool 
place  for  an  hour.  In  the  summer  it  ought  to  be  put  on  ice.  This 
can  be  used  for  a variety  of  layer  cakes.  Roll  out  some  of  the 
dough  about  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  cut  it  round  and  put  it  on 
piece  white  paper  cut  to  fit ; cut  a strip  of  dough  an  inch  wide,  and 
stand  it  up  around  the  edge,  and  take  a strip  of  white  paper  and 
paste  around  the  cake  and  to  the  paper  under  it  so  as  to  keep  it  in 
shape.  Into  this  dish  of  dough  put  enough  apricot  marmalade  to 
cover  the  bottom,  over  this  put  a layer  of  dough  cut  in  little  bis- 
cuits, then  a layer  of  preserved  cherries,  then  another  layer  of  little 
biscuits.  Chop  two  ounces  beef’s  marrow  fine,  and  cover  over  the 
top  ; put  it  on  a tin  carefully,  and  set  in  a slow  oven.  While  this  is 
baking  mix  yolks  of  six  eggs,  four  ounces  sugar,  one-half  quart  thick 
cream,  and  a cup  cherry  juice,  and  put  over  cake  when  half  bak- 
ed. When  it  is  well  settled  put  back  in  the  oven  again  and  let  re- 
main till  done.  Turn  on  a large  plate  and  serve  while  warm. 

Jam  Fruit  Gake. — One  and  a half  cups  brown  sugar,  two  of 
flour,  one  each  butter  and  chopped  raisins,  three  eggs,  three  table- 
spoons sour  milk,  half  teaspoon  soda,  half  cup  blackberry  jam. 
This  is  excellent  as  well  as  economical. 

Pepper  Fruit  Gake. — ^Yolks  seven  eggs,  two  cups  brown  sugar, 
one  cup  each  molasses,  butter  and  sour  cream,  one  teaspoon  each 
soda  and  pepper,  one  teaspoon  each  cinnamon,  allspice  and  cloves, 
one  quart  flour,  one  pound  raisins,  half  pound  currants,  fourth 


CAKE-MAKING. 


77 


pound  citron,  wine  glass  brandy.  See  directions  for  preparing  fruit 
in  cake  preface. 

Pound  Fruit  Cake. — One  pound  each  flour,  brown  sugar,  citron, 
raisins,  currants,  candied  fruits  (figs  and  dates)  mixed  nuts,  (shell- 
ed), butter,  twelve  eggs,  one  teaspoon  each  ground  cloves  and  cin- 
namon, one  pint  best  brandy,  one  cup  molasses.  Brown  the  flour, 
chop  nuts  slight!}^  and  add  whites  of  eggs,  beaten  separately,  last. 
Bake  four  to  five  hours  in  slow  oven. 

Scotch  Fruit  Cake. — A cup  butter,  two  of  white  sugar,  four^  of 
sifted  flour,  three-fourths  cup  sour  milk,  half  teaspoon  soda,  nine 
eggs  beaten  separately,  one  pound  raisins,  half  pound  currants,  a 
fourth  pound  citron ; cream  the  butter  and  sugar,  add  milk  gradu- 
ally, then  beaten  yolks  of  eggs,  and  lastly,  while  stirring  in  flour, 
the  whites  well  whipped.  Flavor  with  one  teaspoon  each  lemon  and 
vanilla  extract,  and  have  raisins  chopped  a little,  or,  better  still, 
seeded,  and  citron  sliced  thin.  Wash  and  dry  currants  before  using, 
and  flour  all  fruit  slightly.  In  putting  cake  in  pan,  place  first  a 
thin  layer  of  cake,  then  sprinkle  in  some  of  the  three  kinds  of  fruit, 
then  a layer  of  cake,  and  so  on,  always  finishing  off  with  a thin 
layer  of  cake.  Bake  in  a moderate  oven  for  two  hours.  Tested  by 
many  and  has  never  failed. 

GroorPs  Cake. — Ten  eggs  beaten  separately,  one  pound  each 
butter,  white  sugar,  and  flour,  two  of  almonds  blanched  and  chop- 
ped fine,  one  of  seeded  raisins,  half  pound  citron,  shaved  fine ; the 
juice  and  rind  of  one  lemon  may  be  added ; beat  butter  to  a cream, 
add  sugar  gradually,  then  the  well-beaten  yolks ; stir  all  till  very 
light,  and  add  the  chopped  almonds ; beat  the  whites  stiff  and  add 
gently  with  the  flour ; take  a little  more  flour  and  sprinkle  over  the 
raisins  and  citron,  then  put  in  the  cake-pan,  first  a layer  of  cake 
batter,  then  a layer  of  raisins  and  citron,  then  cake,  and  so  on  till 
all  is  used,  finishing  off  with  a layer  of  cake.  Bake  in  a moderate 
oven  two  hours. 

Hard-Money  Cake. — Gold  part:  Yolks  of  eight  eggs,  scant  cup 
butter,  two  of  sugar,  four  of  flour,  one  of  sour  milk,  teaspoon  soda, 
tablespoon  corn  starch ; flavor  with  lemon  and  vanilla.  Silver  part ; 
Two  cups  sugar,  one  of  butter,  four  (scant)  of  flour,  one  of  sour 
milk,  teaspoon  soda,  tablespoon  corn  starch,  whites  eight  eggs ; 
flavor  with  almond  or  peach.  Put  in  pan,  alternately,  one  spoon 
each  gold  and  silver. 

Hayes  Cake. — One  cup  sugar,  half  cup  butter,  three  eggs  beaten 
well  together,  level  teaspoon  soda  stirred  in  half  cup  sour  milk,  two 
small  cups  flour;  flavor  with  lemon,  pour  in  small  dripping-pan, 
bake  half  an  hour,  and  cut  in  squares. 

Hickory-Hut  Cake. — Two  cups  sugar,  one  of  milk,  two-thirds 


78 


CAKE-MAKING. 


cup  butter,  three  of  flour,  three  eggs,  two  teaspoons  baking  powder, 
a cup  nut-kernels  cut  fine.  Tried,  and  not  found  wanting.  Without 
nuts  makes  a good  layer  cake  for  any  filling. 

Hichory-nut  Cake. — A cup  butter,  two  of  sugar,  three  of  flour, 
one  of  sweet  milk,  whites  of  seven  and  yolks  of  two  eggs,  a teaspoon 
soda,  two  of  cream  tartar,  one  pint  hickory-nut  meats  rolled  and 
sprinkled  with  flour ; beat  whites  to  stiff  froth.  Rich  and  excellent. 

HucTdeherry  Cake. — One  cup  butter,  two  cups  sugar,  three  cups 
flour,  five  eggs,  one  cup  sweet  milk,  one  teaspoon  soda,  dissolved  in 
hot  water,  one  teaspoon  each  of  nutmeg  and  cinna^mon,  one  quart 
berries,  dredged  well  with  flour.  Stir  them  in  carefully.  Bake  in 
loaf. 


Ladjfs  Cake. — One-half  cup  butter,  one  and  a half  of  sugar, 
two  of  flour,  nearly  one  of  sweet  nailk,  half  teaspoon  soda,  one  of 
cream  tartar,  whites  four  eggs  well  beaten ; flavor  with  peach  or  al- 
mond. 

Yellow  Lady^s  Cake. — One  and  a half  cups  flour,  one  of  sugar, 
half  cup  each  butter  and  sweet  milk,  teaspoon  soda,  two  teaspoons 
cream  tartar,  yolks  four  eggs,  teaspoon  vanilla. 

Lemon  Cake. — One  pound  each  flour  and  sugar,  three-fourths 
pound  butter,  seven  eggs,  juice  of  one  and  rind  of  two  lemons.  The 
sugar,  butter  and  yolks  of  eggs  must  be  beaten  a long  time,  adding 
by  degrees  the  flour,  and  the  whites  of  eggs  last.  A tumbler  and  a 
half  sliced  citron  may  be  added.  This  keeps  well 

Loaf  Cake. — Two  cups  sugar  and  one  of  butter  beaten  to  a 
cream,  three  eggs,  the  whites  beaten  separately , three  cups  flour  with 
one  teaspoon  cream  tartar  stirred  in,  yolks  of  the  eggs  stirred  well 
with  the  sugar  and  butter ; now  add  two  cups  more  flour  with  one 
teaspoon  cream  tartar,  one  cup  sweet  milk  and  the  whites  of  the 
eggs,  and  then  stir  again ; add  one  nutmeg,  one  pound  raisins  or 
currants  dredged  with  flour,  one  teaspoon  soda  dissolved  in  four 
tablespoons  water.  This  makes  two  nice  loaves,  and  is  excellent. 

French  Loaf  Cake. — Five  cups  sugar,  three  of  butter  two  of 
milk,  ten  of  flour,  six  eggs,  three  nutmegs,  pound  seeded  raisins,  a 
grated  lemon,  small  teaspoon  soda,  two-thirds  cup  Orleans  molasses. 

Old-Fashioned  Loaf  Cake. — Three  pounds  (three  quarts  sifted 
and  well  heaped)  flour,  one  and  a fourth  pounds  (a  rounded  pint  of 
soft)  butter,  one  and  three-fourths  pounds  (one  quart)  sugar,  five 
gills  new  milk,  half  pint  yeast,  three  eggs,  two  pounds  raisins  (half 
pound  citron  may  be  added,  but  most  excellent  without),  teaspoon 


CAKE-MAKING. 


79 


Boda,  fourth  pint  molasses,  two  teaspoons  each  cinnamon  and  nut- 
meg. Scald  the  milk,  cool  to  blood-warm,  add 
the  yeast,  then  the  flour,  to  which  all  the  but- 
ter and  half  the  sugar  have  been  added ; then 
mix  together,  and  let  rise  until  light.  It  is 
better  to  set  this  sponge  overnight,  and  in  the  Loaf-cake. 

morning  add  the  other  ingredients  (flouring  raisins)  and  let  rise 
again.  When  light,  fill  baking  pans  and  let  rise  again.  Bake  in  a 
moderate  oven.  This  recipe  makes  three  large  loaves,  and  is  a stand- 
ard, economical  loaf-cake. 

Marble  Cake. — Dark  part:  Yolks  three  eggs,  one-half  cup  but- 
ter, one  cup  brown  sugar,  one  tablespoon  molasses,  one-half  cup 
sour  milk,  one  teaspoon  soda,  one  and  one-third  cups  flour,  spices  to 
taste  and  one  cup  raisins  and  currants,  or  leave  out  spices  and  fruit 
and  use  three  tablespoons  grated  chocolate.  Light  part : Whites 
three  eggs,  one-half  cup  corn  starch,  one  cup  white  sugar,  one-half 
cup  each  sweet  milk  and  butter,  one  cup  flour,  one  teaspoon  baking 
powder.  Alternate  the  light  and  dark  parts  by  spoonfuls  or  layers, 
or  both,  in  tin  before  baking. 

Marble  Cake. — White  part : Whites  seven  eggs,  three  cups  white 
sugar,  one  of  butter,  one  of  sour  milk,  four  of  flour,  sifted  and  heap- 
ing, one  teaspoon  soda ; flavor  to  taste.  Dark  part : Y oik  s seven  eggs, 
three  cups  brown  sugar,  one  of  butter,  one  of  sour  milk,  four  of  flour, 
sifted  and  heaping,  one  tablespoon  each  cinnamon,  allspice  and 
cloves,  one  teaspoon  soda;  put  in  pans  a spoonful  of  white  part 
and  then  of  dark,  and  so  on.  Bake  an  hour  and  a quarter.  Use 
coffee-cups  to  measure.  This  will  make  one  large  and  one  medium 
cake.  The  white  and  dark  parts  are  alternated,  either  by  putting  in 
a spoonful  of  white,  then  of  dark,  or  a layer  of  white  and  then  of 
dark  part,  being  careful  that  the  cake  may  be  nicely  “marbleized.’’ 

One- Egg  Cake, — One  cup  butter,  one  and  a half  cups  sugar, 
three  of  flour,  one  of  sweet  milk,  one  egg,  teaspoon  soda,  two  tea- 
spoons cream  tartar  in  the  flour,  cup  raisins  chopped  fine. 

Orange  Cake. — Two  cups  sugar,  four  eggs,  leaving  out  whites  of 
two,  half  cup  butter,  one  of  water,  two  teaspoons  baking  powder, 
three  cups  flour,  juice,  grated  rind,  and  pulp  of  one  orange ; use  the 
remaining  whites  for  frosting  the  top. 

Plum  Cake. — Cut  one  pound  butter  in  small  pieces  and  work 
into  two  and  one-half  pounds  flour  with  half  a 
nutmeg,  grated,  and  two  pounds  currants,  picked 
and  washed.  Add  one  pound  sugar  and  six 
yolks  eggs  rubbed  together,  one-half  pint  each 
3^east  and  cream  and  work  to  a smooth  batter. 
Pound  one-half  pound  shelled  and  blanched  almonds  with  a 
little  rose  water  to  a paste  and  add  with  one-fourth  pound  citron 


Fruit  Cake. 


CAKE-MAKING. 


and  one-fourth  pound  candied  orange  and  lemon  peels,  sliced  and 
dredged.  Let  rise  and  bake  in  paper  lined  pans  in  moderate  oven. 

Peanut  Cake.  — One-half  cup  butter,  one  and  one-half  cups 
milk,  two  and  one-half  cups  flour,  whites  four  eggs,  one-half  tea- 
spoon cream  tartar,  one-quarter  teaspoon  soda;  just  before  putting 
into  oven  sprinkle  over  top  one  cup  peanuts  broken  into  pieces. 

Poor-Man’s  Cake. — Three  cups  bread  dough,  two  cups  sugar, 
one  of  butter,  two  eggs,  mix  well,  put  in  spice  to  taste,  and  fruit  if 
preferred.  Let  rise  and  bake  in  brisk  oven.  Do  not  use  any  flour. 

Citron  Pound  Cake. — One  pound  each  sugar  and  flour,  three- 
fourths  pound  butter,  eight  large  or  ten  small  eggs,  one  and  one- 
fourth  pounds  citron  finely  shredded ; cream  butter  and  sugar,  add 
the  yolks,  then  the  flour  and  well-whipped  whites  ; put  layer  of  bat- 
ter  in  cake-pan  and  sprinkle  thickly  with  citron,  then  another  layei 
of  batter,  etc.,  till  pan  is  filled.  Bake  slowly  one  and  a half  to  two 
hours. 

Pyramid  Pound  Cake. — One  pound  each  sugar,  butter  and 
flour,  ten  eggs ; bake  in  a dripping-pan  one  inch  in  thickness  and 
cut  when  cold  into  pieces  three  and  a half  inches  long  by  two  wide, 
or  bake  in  sponge  cake  pans,  and  frost  top  and  sides ; form  on  the 
cake  stand  in  pyramid  before  the  icing  is  quite  dry  by  laying  first 
in  a circle,  five  pieces  with  some  space  between  them ; over  the  spaces 
between  these  lay  five  other  pieces,  gradually  drawing  in  the  column 
and  crowning  the  top  with  a bouquet  of  flowers. 

White  Pound  Cake. — One  pound  each  sugar  and  flour,  hall 
pound  butter,  whites  sixteen  eggs,  teaspoon  baking  powder  sifted 
thoroughly  with  flour ; put  in  cool  oven  with  gradual  increase  of 
heat.  For  boiled  icing,  three  cups  sugar  boiled  in  one  of  water  until 
clear ; beat  whites  three  eggs  to  very  stiff  froth  and  pour  over  them 
the  boiling  liquid,  beating  all  the  time  for  ten  minutes  ; frost  whihi 
both  cake  and  icing  are  warm. 

Pice  Cake. — One  pound  each  sugar  and  ground  rice,  half  pound 
butter,  nine  eggs,  rose-water  to  taste  ; add  a little  salt,  beat  butter 
and  sugar  together,  add  rose-water,  salt  and  eggs,  lastly  the  rice ; 
bake  in  shallow  pans. 

Snow  Cake. — Half  cup  butter,  one  of  sugar,  one  and  a half 
sifted  flour,  half  cup  sweet  milk,  whites  four  eggs,  teaspoon  baking 
powder ; flavor  with  lemon. 

Snow  Cake. — Beat  one-half  pound  butter  to  a cream,  stir  in  one- 
half  pound  granulated  sugar  and  one  pound  arrowroot  flour  gradu- 
ally, beating  steadily ; add  whipped  whites  six  eggs,  and  beat  well 
twenty  minutes ; flavor  to  taste  with  essence  almonds,  vanilla  or 
lemon.  Bake  in  moderate  oven  one  to  one  and  one-half  hours. 


CAKE-MAKING. 


8\ 


Spice  Cake.  (Without  Eggs) — One  heaping  cup  sugar,  one- 
half  cup  butter,  one  and  one-half  cups  sour  milk,  one  teaspoon  each 
cinnamon,  cloves  and  nutmeg,  one  cup  fruit,  one  teaspoon  soda; 
stir  in  flour  until  it  will  just  drop  from  the  spoon. 

Spice  Cake. — Three  eggs,  one  cup  butter,  one  cup  brown  sugar, 
four  cups  hour,  two  teaspoons  baking  powder,  one  cup  each  molas- 
ses and  milk,  one  teaspoon  each  extract  nutmeg,  cinnamon  and 
ground  cloves. 

Sponge  Cake. — Beat  to  a cream  four  eggs  and  a large  coffee-cup 
white  sugar.  Sift  two  teaspoons  baking  powder  with  two  cups  hour, 
and  stir  this  in  carefully  with  sugar  and  eggs,  then  add  two-thirds 
cup  boiling  water.  Flavor  to  taste.  Beat  lightly  together  and  bake 
in  four-quart  pan.  The  hot  water  makes  it  deliciously  tender. 

Sponge  Cake. — Three  eggs, 
one  and  a half  cups  powdered 
sugar,  two  sifted  hour,  two  tea- 
spoons cream  tartar,  half  cup 
cold  water,  teaspoon  soda,  grat- 
ed rind  and  half  the  juice  one 
lemon ; bake  in  dripping-pan, 
or  in  sponge  cake  pans  given  in  cut. 

Sponge  Cake. — Twelve  eggs,  one  and  one-third  pints  pulverized 
sugar,  one  and  a half  pints  hour,  measured  before  sifting,  small  tea- 
spoon salt,  heaping  teaspoon  baking  powder,  essence  of  lemon  for 
havor ; beat  whites  to  very  stiff  froth  and  add  sugar ; beat  yolks, 
strain  and  add  them  to  whites  and  sugar;  put  three  tablespoons 
cold  water  in  bowl  where  yolks  were  beaten,  stir  until  all  yolk  is  taken 
up,  and  add  batter  and  beat  the  whole  thoroughly ; mix  baking  pow- 
der and  salt  in  the  hour  and  add  last,  stirring  in  small  quantities  at 
a time ; bake  one  hour  in  a six-quart  pan  in  a moderate  oven.  This 
makes  one  very  large  cake.  By  weight  use  one  pound  pulverized 
sugar  and  three-fourths  pound  hour. 

Sponge  Cake. — One  pound  each  sugar  and  hour,  ten  eggs  ; stir 
yolks  of  eggs  and  sugar  till  perfectly  light ; beat  whites  and  add 
them  with  the  hour  after  beating  together  lightly ; havor  with  lemon. 
Three  teaspoons  baking  powder  in  the  hour  will  add  to  its  lightness, 
but  it  never  fails  without.  Bake  in  a moderate  oven. 

Lemon  Sponge  Cake. — One  lemon,  three  gills  hour,  one  pint 
sugar,  eight  eggs  ; beat  yolks  of  eggs  thoroughly,  add  sugar  little  by 
little,  and  the  grated  rind  of  the  lemon ; beat  whites  of  eggs  to  stiff 
•^roth,  and  add  them  alternately  with  the  hour,  beating  very  gently 
and  barely  long  enough  to  mix  well;  when  part  of  the  hour  is  in, 
iidd'the  lemon  juice.  Bake  twenty  minutes,  in  small  loaves. 


82 


CAKE-MAKING. 


Philadelphia  Sponge  Cake. — Weigh  ingredients  and  prepare 
baking  pans,  then  pour  one  gill  boiling  water  on  three-quarters  pound 
sugar  in  a bowl ; stir  it,  cover  and  let  stand  on  the  table  until  yolks 
of  six  eggs  are  beaten,  add  the  grated  rind  of  half  a lemon  to  the 
eggs ; froth  whites  and  pour  yolks  on  them,  beat  thoroughly  togeth- 
er, then  add  the  syrup  (sugar  and  water)  and  beat  ten  minutes,  or 
till  thick,  sift  in  half  pound  flour,  mixing  very  gently  with  a knife, 
add  juice  of  half  a lemon,  pour  in  pans  and  bake  from  twenty  to 
thirty  minutes.  The  syrup  is  sometimes  left  on  the  range,  and  when 
boiling  is  poured  into  the  eggs  which  are  then  beaten  until  cold. 
The  eggs  thicken  more  quickly  in  this  way,  and  the  cake  is  excellent, 
but  perhaps  not  quite  as  moist  as  that  made  with  cold  syrup.  This 
«ake  has  the  advantage  of  keeping  much  longer  than  ordinary 
sponge  cake. 

White  Sponge  Cake. — Sift  together  one  cup  powdered  sugar, 
one-half  cup  each  flour  and  corn  starch,  one  teaspoon  baking  pow- 
der. Have  ready  the  whites  of  eight  eggs  beaten  to  stiff  froth  and 
one  tablespoon  rose  extract,  mix  thoroughly  and  bake  in  square  tins 
about  two  inches  deep  in  quick  oven.  Serve  cut  in  small  squares. 

Ten  Minute  Cake. — One-fourth  pound  butter,  a little  less  than  a 
pound  flour,  the  same  of  sugar,  six  eggs  beaten  separately ; flavor 
with  mace  and  bake  in  muffin  rings. 

Tilden  Cake. — One  cup  butter,  two  of  pulverized  sugar,  one  of 
sweet  milk,  three  of  flour,  half  cup  corn  starch,  four  eggs,  two  tea- 
spoons each  baking  powder  and  lemon  extract.  Adding  a quarter 
pound  citron  sliced  fine  makes  an  economical  Citron  Cake,  using 
extra  half  cup  starch.  Either  cake  is  very  easily  made,  and  when 
well  beaten  is  almost  a white  cake.  Is  very  delicious  and  never  fails. 

Tin-  Wedding  Cake. — Rub  one  cup  butter  and  three  of  sugar  to 
a cream ; add  one  cup  milk,  four  of  flour,  five  eggs,  one  teaspoon 
cream  tartar,  half  teaspoon  soda,  one-fourth  pound  citron.  This 
makes  two  loaves. 

Watermelon  Cake. — White  part:  Two  cups  white  sugar,  one 
each  of  butter  and  sweet  milk,  three  and  a half  of  flour,  whites  eight 
eggs,  two  teaspoons  cream  tartar,  one  of  soda  dissolved  in  a little 
warm  water.  Red  part : One  cup  red  sugar,  half  cup  butter,  third 
cup  sweet  milk,  two  cups  flour,  whites  four  eggs,  teaspoon  cream 
tartar,  half  teaspoon  soda,  cup  raisins ; be  careful  to  keep  the  red 
part  around  the  tube  of  the  pan  and  the  white  around  the  edge.  It 
requires  two  persons  to  fill  the  pan.  This  is  a very  attractive  and 
ornamental  cake. 

White  Cake. — One  cup  butter,  two  of  sugar,  one  of  sweet  milk, 
three  of  flour,  whites  five  eggs,  two  teaspoons  baking  powder.  Easily 
made,  and  very  good.  A very  handsome  cake  may  be  made  from 


CAKE-MAKING. 


83 


this  recipe  by  coloring  one-fourth  of  the  dough  with  a small  tea- 
spoon cochineal  dissolved  in  a little  hot  water  and  strained  through 
a piece  of  muslin.  When  the  batter  is  put  into  the  tin,  marble  with 
this  red  dough.  Ice  it  when  baked. 

Whipped -Cream  Cahe. — One  cup  sugar,  two  eggs,  two  table- 
spoons softened  butter  and  four  of  milk ; beat  all  well  together ; add 
a cup  of  Hour  in  which  has  been  mixed  teaspoon  cream  tartar  and 
half  teaspoon  soda.  Bake  in  rather  small  square  dripping-pan. 
When  cake  is  cool  have  ready  a half  pint  sweet  cream  whipped  to  a 
stiff  froth,  sweeten  and  flavor  to  taste,  spread  over  cake  and  serve 
while  fresh.  The  cream  will  froth  easier  to  be  made  cold  by  setting 
on  ice  before  whipping. 

White  Perfection  Cake. — Three  cups  sugar,  one  of  butter,  one 
of  milk,  three  of  flour,  one  of  corn  starch,  whites  twelve  eggs  beaten 
to  a stiff  froth,  two  teaspoons  cream  tartar  in  the  flour,  and  one  of 
soda  in  half  the  milk ; dissolve  the  corn  starch  in  the  rest  of  the 
milk,  and  add  it  to  the  sugar  and  butter  well  beaten  together,  then 
the  milk  and  soda,  and  the  flour  and  whites  of  eggs.  This  cake  is 
rightly  named  “Perfection.” 

German  Yeast  Cake. — Take  one  pound  melted  butter,  put  into 
a glazed  dish  and  beat  for  half  an  hour,  until  it  foams  and  seems 
twice  the  quantity ; take  the  yolks  of  eighteen  eggs,  and  twelve 
ounces  warmed  flour ; stir  one  yolk  and  one  large  spoon  flour  into 
the  batter,  at  a time,  till  all  are  used  up.  Add  two  tablespoons  sugar 
one  teaspoon  salt,  four  or  five  tablespoons  good  yeast.  Stir  these 
well  together,  then  add  the  whites  of  six  eggs,  well  beaten ; grease 
the  mold  with  fresh  butter,  and  sprinkle  a little  flour  in  it ; then  put 
the  dough  in,  and  cover  it,  and  set  it  in  a warm  place  to  rise.  Let 
it  rise  till  an  inch  from  the  top  of  the  mold,  then  put  in  a slow  oven 
and  bake  for  an  hour.  It  must  not  be  moved  in  the  oven,  while 
baking,  as  it  will  make  hollow  places  in  the  cake,  and  will  be  im- 
perfect when  turned  out.  When  it  is  done,  turn  out  of  the  mold 
carefully  and  sprinkle  with  sugar  while  hot. 

Yule  Cake. — Cream  two  and  one-half  cups  butter  and  three 
cups  sugar;  add  ten  beaten  eggs,  four  cups  flour  with  two  teaspoons 
baking  powder,  four  cups  currants,  two-thirds  cup  chopped  citron, 
one  teaspoon  grated  nutmeg,  and  quarter  teaspoon  powdered  cloves. 
Bake  in  a well-greased,  paper-lined  tin,  in  a moderate  oven  two  and 
one-half  hours  ; or  bake  in  j^atty  pans  and  frost  with  chocolate  icing. 

Zephyr  Cake. — Wash  the  salt  out  of  nearly  a quarter  pound 
butter;  add  a quarter  pound  powdered  sugar  and  three  well-beaten 
eggs,  a teaspoon  rosewater,  and  sifted  flour  enough  to  make  a thin 
batter ; stir  with  a wooden  spoon  till  batter  is  perfectly  smooth  and 
so  light  that  it  will  break  when  it  falls  against  the  sides  of  the  mix- 
ing crock ; fill  well-buttered  patty  pans  nearly  half  full  with  the  bat- 
ter, and  bake  in  quick  oven  ; serve  warm.  Excellent  tea  cakes. 


84 


LAYER  CAKES. 


Zufolos. — Sift  together  tea-cup  powdered  sugar,  rounded  coffee^ 
cup  flour  and  teaspoon  cream  tartar,  add  to  the  well-frothed  whites 
of  eight  eggs  and  stir  without  beating  till  well  mixed.  Fill  mer- 
ingue bag  and  press  out  in  finger  shapes  or  in  drops,  or  bake  in  lady- 
finger  pan  as  described  or  in  patty  pans.  The  white  fingers  are 
nice  for  charlotte-russe  ; or  make  a batter  of  three  eggs,  one  and  a 
half  cups  sugar,  two  of  flour,  half  cup  water,  teaspoon  cream  tartar 
and  half  of  soda,  bake  in  fancy-shaped  patty  pans  and  ice  with 
chocolate  icing,  either  plain,  boiled  or  caramel ; or  cut  any  kind  of 
plain  cake  into  small  squares,  cut  small  piece  from  center  of  each 
square,  and  fill  cavity  with  some  kind  of  marmalade  or  jelly,  re- 
place part  that  was  removed,  and  cover  with  icing.  The  small  sponge 
cakes  may  be  iced  with  white  icing  and  when  cold  “marked  in  gold’’ 
by  dipping  a very  small  bristle  brush  in  the  yolk  of  an  egg  and 
writing  a word  or  name  upon  them. 


Layer  Cakes. 

In  making  la^^er  cake  batter  follow  directions  given  in  cake  pref- 
ace, always  remembering  to  sift  the  flour  before  measuring.  In  bak- 
ing it  is  important  to  thoroughly  grease  the  tins — to  make 
it  emphatic  we  will  say,  thoroughly  grease  with  lard  or 
American  cooking  oil,  and  then  grease  again  (it  is  not  al- 
ways necessary  to  line  tins  for  layer  cakes  with  paper) — 
and  after  using  rub  off  with  a coarse  towel,  taking  care  Quart  Measure, 
that  they  are  perfectly  free  from  all  particles  of  cake,  grease  and  fill 
again,  thus  obviating  the  necessity  of  washing  every  time  they  are 
filled.  A much  hotter  fire  is  required  for  layer  than  for  loaf  cakes ; 
a good  test  for  the  oven  is  to  put  in  a piece  of  white  paper,  which 
should  be  browned  in  one  minute,  when  the  oven  is  ready  for  the 
cake.  If  jelly  is  used  to  spread  between  the  layers  it  is  a good  plan 
to  beat  it  smoothly  and  spread  it  before  the  cakes  are  quite  cool.  In 
“building,”  an  inverted  jelly  tin  furnishes  a perfectly 
level  surface  on  which  to  lay  and  spread  the  cake,  and 
Jelly  Cake  Tin.  it  may  be  allowed  to  remain  on  it  until  perfectly  cold 
when  it  should  be  set  away  in  a cake  box  in  a cool  place.  In  put- 
ting the  layers  together  many  place  them  bottom  side  up,  because  of 
the  smoother  surface  afforded.  In  cutting  it  is  better  to  first  make 
a round  hole  in  the  center  with  a knife  or  tin  tube  about  an  inch  and 
a quarter  in  diameter,  which  prevents  the  edge  of  the  cake  from 
crumbling  when  cut.  In  making  the  custard  or  “filling”  for  layer 
cake,  place  in  a custard  kettle  or  tin  pail  and  set  in  boiling  water  to 
cook,  thus  avoiding  all  danger  of  burning. 


LAYER  CAKES. 


85 


To  blanch  almonds,  pour  boiling  water  over  them, let  boil  a mo- 
ment, drain  and  throw  them  into  cold  water,  slip  off  the 
skins  and  pound.  To  prepare  cocoa-nut  see  cake  preface. 

When  dessicated  cocoa-nut  is  used  for  filling  moisten  with  a 
little  milk.  The  cut  of  grater  given  illustrates  an  inexpen- 
sive article  necessary  in  every  kitchen,  used  for  grating  co- 
coa-nuts, lemons,  oranges  and  other  flavoring,  cheese,  horse- 
radish, etc. 

The  “German”  cakes  may  be  baked  in  jelly  tins. 

Almond  Cake. — Two  cups  sugar,  three-fourths  cup  butter,  one 
of  sweet  milk,  two  of  flour,  and  one  of  corn  starch  well  mixed, 
whites  of  six  eggs,  two  teaspoons  cream  tartar  in  the  flour,  one  tea- 
spoon soda  in  the  milk  ; cream  the  butter  and  sugar,  add  milk  grad- 
ually, then  the  whites  of  eggs  together  with  the  flour,  and  bake  in 
jelly  tins.  To  put  between  layers,  take  two  pounds  almonds,  blanch 
and  pound  fine  in  a mortar  (or  a cloth  will  do),  beat  whites  and 
yolks  of  two  eggs  together  lightly,  add  a cup  and  a half  sugar,  then 
the  almonds,  with  one  tablespoon  vanilla. 


Almond  Cream  Cake. — On  beaten  whites  of  ten  eggs,  sift  one 
and  a half  goblets  pulverized  sugar,  and  a goblet  flour  through 
which  has  been  stirred  a heaping  teaspoon  cream  tartar ; stir  very 
gently  and  do  not  beat  it ; bake  in  jelly  pans.  For  cream,  take  a 
half  pint  sweet  cream,  yolks  of  three  eggs,  tablespoon  pulverized 
sugar,  teaspoon  cornstarch ; dissolve  starch  smoothly  in  a little  milk, 
beat  yolks  and  sugar  together  with  this,  boil  the  cream,  and  stir 
these  ingredients  in  as  for  any  cream-cake  Ailing,  only  make  a little 
thicker ; blanch  and  chop  fine  a half  pound  almonds  and  stir  into 
the  cream.  Put  together  like  jelly  cake  while  icing  is  soft,  and  stick 
in  a half  pound  almonds  split  in  two. 

Apple  Cake. — One  cup  butter,  two  of  sugar,  three  of  flour,  four 
eggs,  half  cup  milk,  three  teaspoons  baking  powder ; bake  in  jelly 
tins.  For  Ailing,  stir  together  a grated  lemon,  a large  grated  tart 
apple,  an  egg,  and  a cup  sugar,  and  boil  four  minutes.  A very  ex- 
cellent cake. 


German  Apple  Cake. — Pare  twenty-four  good  apples  and  cut 
each  into  six  equal  pieces.  Take  some  dough  made  as  for  German 
Fruit  cake  and  roll  out  enough  for  two  layers,  cut  round,  turn  up 
some  for  margin,  place  on  white  paper  and  paste  band  of  paper 
around  to  keep  in  shape.  Put  the  apples  on  the  dough  in  rows,  set 
in  a quick  oven  and  bake  till  light  brown.  While  hot  sprinkle  with 
sugar  and  cinnamon. 

Banana  Cake. — Six  eggs,  one  cup  butter,  two  cups  each  sugar, 
flour  and  corn  starch,  one  cup  sweet  milk,  three  teaspoons  baking 


LAYER  CAKES. 


S6 


powder.  Bake  in  layers,  and  while  warm  place  sliced  bananas  be- 
tween. Ice  and  eat  while  fresh.  Enough  for  two  cakes.  . 

Boston  Cream  PuiTs. — Put  half  pint  milk  and  two-thirds  cup 
butter  over  the  fire  ; when  it  comes  to  a boil  stir  in  one  and  one-half 
cups  sifted  flour  and  continue  stirring  until  smooth  and  the  mixture 
leaves  the  sides  of  the  pan.  Remove  from  the  fire  and  beat  thor- 
oughly into  it  five  eggs,  first  stirred  together  lightly  to  break  up  and 
mix  the  whites  and  yolks,  but  do  not  beat  them  before  adding  to  the 
flour  and  milk.  Drop  on  cold  greased  tins,  a tablespoon  in  a place, 
leaving  space  between  to  prevent  touching,  brush  over  with  the  yolk 
of  an  egg  mixed  with  a little  water,  and  sprinkle  with  granulated 
sugar.  Bake  thirty-one  minutes  in  a medium  oven  (test  same  as  for 
angel  cake),  or  until  all  moisture  is  thoroughly  dried  out,  lest  they 
may  fall.  When  done  they  will  be  hollow.  Let  them  get  cold,  then 
make  an  opening  in  the  side  and  fill  the  space  with  whipped  cream  or 
custard.  The  neatest  way  to  put  in  the  filling  is  to  inject  it  through 
the  meringue  bag,  but  a spoon  may  be  used.  For  the  whipped 
cream,  ten  ounces  powdered  sugar,,  a quart  of  cream ; whip  up  stiff 
and  flavor  with  one  tablespoon  vanilla,  or  juice  of  one  orange  or  grat- 
ed peel  dissolved  in  a little  hot  water  and  strained  off.  For  custard  fil- 
ling, take  one  pint  milk,  place  one-half  in  a tin  pail  and  set  in  boiling 
water ; reserve  from  the  other  half  two  tablespoons  to  mix  with  eggs, 
and  into  the  rest,  while  cold,  mix  one  cup  of  flouruntil  smooth  ; when 
the  milkis  hot  pour  in  the  flour  and  stir  until  thicker  than  boiled  cus- 
tard, then  beat  well  together  the  two  tablespoons  milk,  two  eggs,  one 
cup  granulated  sugar,  a level  tablespoon  butter,  and  a teaspoon  vanilla 
or  lemon  ; add  gradually,  and  continue  stirring  briskly  until  so  thick 
that  when  cold  it  will  drop,  not  pour,  from  the  spoon.  The  puffs 
may  be  kept  on  hand.  Make  the  cream  or  custard  fresh,  and  fill  as 
many  as  are  wanted. 

Buckeye  Cream  Puifs. — Five  eggs,  whites  and  yolks  beaten 
separately,  one  and  a half  cups  each  white  sugar  and  sifted  flour,  two 
teaspoons  baking  powder  in  the  flour  ; bake  in  tea-cups,  filling  about 
half  full.  The  cream  is  prepared  by  placing  a small  tin  pail  contain- 
ing a pint  sweet  milk  in  a kettle  of  boiling  water ; beat  whites  and 
yolks  of  two  eggs  separately ; stir  in  milk  while  boiling,  a half  tea- 
cup sugar,  a large  tablespoon  corn  starch  dissolved  in  a little  sweet 
milk,  then  the  beaten  yolks  and  a piece  of  butter  the  size  of  a large 
walnut ; flavor  with  lemon  or  vanilla.  When  done,  cut  the  cakes 
open,  put  in  a spoonful  of  the  cream,  place  together  again,  roll  in  the 
whites  and  then  in  coarse  granulated  sugar. 

Cake  with  Maple  Frosting.  — Three  eggs,  one  cup  white 
sugar,  two  tablespoons  sweet  milk,  one  heaping  cup  flour  with  two 
teaspoons  baking  powder  in  it.  Filling : One  cup  maple  syrup 
boiled  to  wax ; beat  white  of  one  egg  to  stiff  froth,  and  pour  on  the 
syrup,  stirring  briskly.  Very  nice. 


LAYER  CAKES. 


87 


Caramel  Cake. — One  and  a half  cups  sugar,  three-fourths  cup 
butter,  half  cup  milk,  two  and  a fourth  cups  flour,  three  eggs,  three 
and  a half  heaping  teaspoons  baking  powder,  or  a small  teaspoon 
soda,  and  two  teaspoons  cream  tartar;  bake  in  jelly  tins.  Make 
caramel  as  follows : Butter  size  of  an  egg,  pint  brown  sugar,  half 
cup  milk  or  water,  half  cake  chocolate ; boil  twenty  minutes  ( or  un- 
til thick  enough)  and  pour  over  cakes  while  warm,  piling  the  layers 
one  upon  the  other.  For  frosting  for  top  of  cake,  take  whites  of  two 
eggs,  one  and  a half  cups  sugar,  teaspoon  vanilla,  three  heaping  tea- 
spoons grated  chocolate. 

Chocolate  Cake. — One  cup  butter,  two  of  sugar,  one  of  milk,  five  eggs, 
leaving  out  whites  of.  three,  four  cups  sifted  flour,  two  teaspoons 
baking  powder  or  one  small  teaspoon  soda  and  two  of  cream  tartar 
in  the  flour ; flavor  with  vanilla  and  bake  in  four  layers.  For  filling 
and  icing,  take  whites  of  three  eggs  beaten  stiff,  one  and  a half  cups 
powdered  sugar,  six  tablespoons  grated  chocolate.  Or,  use  one  of 
the  recipes  for  boiled  frosting  given  under  “ Directions  for  Icing  ” 
(adding  the  chocolate)  which  is  considered  by  many  to  be  much  su- 
perior, especially  for  chocolate  cakes.  The  boiled  frosting  without 
eggs  is  economical,  and  the  cake  may  be  made  with  one  or  two, 
using  a little  more  flour. 

Delicious  Chocolate  Cake. — Whites  of  eight  eggs,  two  cups  sugar, 
one  of  butter,  three  full  cups  flour,  one  of  sweet  milk,  three  teaspoons 
baking  powder ; beat  the  butter  to  a cream,  stir  in  the  sugar,  and 
beat  until  light ; add  the  milk,  then  the  flour  and  beaten  whites. 
When  well  beaten  divide  into  equal  parts,  and  into  half  grate  a cake 
sweet  chocolate.  Bake  in  layers,  spread  with  custard,  and  alternate 
the  white  and  dark  cakes.  For  custard  for  the  cake,  add  a table- 
spoon butter  to  one  pint  milk  and  let  come  to  a boil ; stir  in  two 
eggs  beaten  with  one  cup  sugar,  add  two  teaspoons  corn  starch  dis- 
solved in  a little  milk  ; or,  leave  the  chocolate  out  of  the  cake,  and  use 
boiled  frosting  with  six  tablespoons  grated  chocolate,  instead  of  the 
custard,  icing  the  top  also  with  the  mixture. 

Chocolate  Filling, — Two  ounces  chocolate  cooked  over  hot 
water,  with  one  cup  water  and  one  ounce  sugar.  Spread  between 
layers. 

German  Chocolate  Cake. — Mix  four  ounces  each  fresh  butter 
and  fine  sugar  and  yolks  of  twelve  eggs  beaten  to  a froth ; then  add 
eight  ounces  each  powdered  almonds  and  grated  vanilla  chocolate ; 
stir  well  together,  then  put  in  two  ounces  sifted  flour  and  last  the 
well  whipped  whites  twelve  eggs.  Cut  two  pieces  of  white  paper 
round,  leaving  a margin  to  turn  up  around  the  edge.  Make  the  cake 
equally  thick  on  both  pieces  of  paper,  set  in  a slow  oven  and  bake ; 
when  cold  put  a layer  of  preserved  cherries  on  one  and  lay  the  other 
cake  on  top  of  it ; trim  the  edges  smooth  and  ice  with  chocolate  icing, 


88 


LAYER  CAKES. 


made  by  dissolving  six  ounces  sugar  in  water  and  adding  six  ounces 
chocolate ; stir  constantly ; let  cook  till  it  will  follow  the  spoon 
when  taken  out  or  a skin  has  formed  upon  it.  You  can  trim  the 
cake  with  white  icing  in  fancy  designs  and  garnish  the  plate  with 
fruit  and  white  icing. 

Chocolate  Eclairs. — Make  paste  after  recipe  for  “Boston  Cream 
Puffs,”  shape  into  cakes  about  four  inches  long  and  one  and  one- 
half  wide,  placing  them  on  cold  greased  tins  about  two  inches  apart ; 
bake  as  puffs.  As  they  come  from  the  oven  dip  the  tops  of  the 
eclairs  into  an  icing  made  by  stirring  over  the  fire  two  squares  scraped 
chocolate  with  five  tablespoons  powdered  sugar  and  three  of  boil- 
ing water.  When  cold  make  an  opening  in  the  side  and  fill  with 
this  custard ; Heat  to  boiling  one  and  one-half  cups  milk  in  steam 
boiler,  beat  together  two-thirds  cup  sugar,  one-fourth  cup  flour,  two 
eggs,  and  one-fourth  teaspoon  salt,  and  stir  the  mixture  into  the 
boiling  milk.  Cook  fifteen  minutes,  stirring  often ; when  cold  flavor 
with  vanilla  extract ; if  a chocolate  flavor  is  preferred  in  the  cream 
add  one  teaspoon  dissolved  chocolate. 

Cocoa-nut  Cake. — To  the  well-beaten  yolks  of  six  eggs  add  two 
cups  powdered  white  sugar,  three-fourths  cup  butter,  one  of  sweet 
milk,  three  and  a half  of  flour,  one  level  teaspoon  soda  and  two  of 
cream  tartar,  whites  of  four  eggs  well  beaten  ; bake  in  four  layers.  For 
icing,  grate  one  cocoa-nut,beat  whites  of  two  eggs,  and  add  one  tea-cup 
powdered  sugar ; mix  thoroughly  with  the  grated  cocoa-nut,  and 
spread  evenly  on  the  layers  of  cake  when  they  are  cold. 

Cream  Cake. — One  cup  sugar,  yolks  of  two  eggs  and  white  of  one, 
one-half  cup  sweet  milk,  one  and  one-half  cups  flour,  butter  size  of 
an  egg,  three  teaspoons  baking  powder ; bake  in  layers.  Cream  for 
filling : One-half  cup  sweet  milk,  or  water,  three  teaspoons  powdered 
sugar,  one  tablespoon  corn  starch.  Boil  until  thick,  remove  from 
stove,  and  when  partially  cool  stir  in  the  whipped  white  of  one  egg ; 
flavor  with  vanilla  and  spread  between  layers.  Economical,  deli- 
cious, and  easily  made. 

French  Cream  Cake. — Three  eggs,  one  cup  granulated  sugar, 
one  and  a half  cups  flour,  two  tablespoons  cold  water,  teaspoon  bak- 
ing powder.  This  is  enough  for  two  cakes  baked  in  pie-pans,  to  be 
split  while  warm,  spreading  the  hot  custard  between  them,  or  for 
four  cakes  baked  in  jelly-pans,  with  the  hot  custard  spread  between 
them,  the  latter  being  the  preferable  plan.  For  custard,  boil  nearly 
one  pint  sweet  milk,  mix  two  tablespoons  corn  starch  with  half  a 
teacup  sweet  milk,  add  two  well-beaten  eggs  ; when  milk  has  boiled 
add  nearly  a cup  sugar,  and  add  gradually  the  corn  starch  and 
eggs,  stirring  briskly ; add  a half  cup  butter,  stirring  until  dissolved, 
flavor  with  one  teaspoon  vanilla,  and  spread  between  cakes  while 
hot.  This  cake  can  be  used  as  a pudding  by  pouring  over  each  piece 
a spoonful  of  the  custard  that  is  left. 


LAYER  CAKES. 


89 


Golden  Cream  Cake. — Cream  one  cup  sugar  and  one-fourth  cup 
butter,  add  half  cup  sweet  milk,  and  the  well-beaten  whites  three  eggs, 
one  and  a half  cups  flour,  with  half  a teaspoon  soda,  and  a teaspoon 
cream  tartar  sifted  with  it ; bake  in  three  deep  jelly-tins  ; beat  very 
light  yolks  of  two  eggs,  one  cup  sugar,  and  two  tablespoons  rich  sweet 
cream,  flavor  with  vanilla,  and  spread  on  cakes  ; or  to  yolks  add  one 
and  a half  tablespoons  corn  starch,  three-quarters  cup  sweet  milk 
and  small  piece  butter ; sweeten  and  flavor  to  taste,  cook  in  a cus- 
tard-kettle till  thick,  let  cool,  and  then  spread. 

Peach  Cream  Cake. — Bake  three  sheets  of  sponge  cake  as  for 
jelly  cake ; cut  peaches  in  thin  slices,  prepare  cream  by  whipping, 
sweetening  and  adding  flavor  of  vanilla  if  desired,  put  layers  of 
peaches  between  the  sheets  of  cake,  pour  cream  over  each  layer  and 
over  the  top.  This  may  also  be  made  with  ripe  strawberries,  banana 
or  other  fruit. 

Straicherry  Cream  Cake. — One  cup  sugar,  two  eggs,  one-half 
cup  sweet  milk,  three  tablespoons  melted  butter,  one  and  one-half 
cups  flour,  one  teaspoon  soda,  two  teaspoons  cream  tartar ; bake  in 
layers.  Cream  : Take  one-half  cup  thick  sweet  cream,  beat  till  stiff, 
add  two  tablespoons  sugar,  have  one  large  cup  of  berries  w^ell  sweet- 
ened, add  to  cream  and  spread  your  cake ; or,  mash  a sufficient  quan- 
tity of  berries,  thicken  with  confectioner’s  (fine  powdered)  sugar  and 
spread  between  layers. 

Vienna  Cream  Cake. — Four  eggs,  one  cup  sugar,  one  cup 
flour,  one  tablespoon  melted  butter,  three  teaspoons  baking  powder, 
one  teaspoon  lemon ; bake  in  jelly-tins.  Cream  : One  cup  thick 
sour  cream,  one  cup  sugar,  one  cup  hickory-nut  or  walnut  meats 
rolled  fine ; stir  all  together  and  put  on  stove,  boil  five  minutes, 
spread  between  the  layers ; ice  the  top  ; delicious. 

Whipped  Cream  Cake. — Make  a white  sponge  cake,  bake  half 
im  inch  thick  in  jelly  pans  and  let  them  get  perfectly  cold ; take  a 
pint  thickest  sweet  cream,  beat  until  it  looks  like  ice-cream,  make 
very  sweet  and  flavor  with  vanilla ; blanch  and  chop  a pound  al- 
monds, stir  into  cream  and  put  very  thick  between  each  layer.  This 
is  the  queen  of  all  cakes. 

Dominoes — Make  cake  after  recipe  given  for  Lemon  Sponge  Cake^ 
bake  in  long  pie-tins  (two  such  tins  will  make  twelve  dominoes,  and 
i:  no  more  are  required  the  rest  of  tbe  batter  may  be  baked  in  a loaf). 
The  batter  in  the  pie-tins  should  not  be  more  than  one-third  of  an 
inch  deep ; spread  it  evenly  and  bake  in  a quick  oven.  Have  a 
broAvn  paper  nearly  twice  the  size  of  the  cake  on  the  table,  and  the 
moment  one  of  the  cakes  comes  from  the  oven  turn  it  upside  down 
in  the  center  of  the  paper,  spread  it  with  a thin  layer  of  currant  jelly 
and  lay  the  other  cake  on  it  upside  down,  cut  it  with  a hot,  sharp 
knife  lengthwise,  directly  through  the  center,  then  divide  it  across  in 


90 


LAYER  CAKES. 


six  equal  parts,  push  them  with  the  knife  about  an  inch  apart  aad 
ice  them  with  ordinary  white  icing,  putting  a large  dessert-spoonful 
on  every  piece ; the  heat  of  the  cake  will  soften  it  and  with  a little 
help  the  edges  and  sides  will  be  smoothly  covered.  All  of  the  icing 
that  runs  over  on  the  paper  may  be  carefully  taken  up  and  used 
again.  It  must  then  dry,  which  it  will  do  very  quickly.  Make  a 
horn  of  stiff  white  paper  about  five  inches  long,  one  and  a half  inches 
across  the  top  and  one-eighth  of  an  inch  at  the  other  end ; put  in 
a dessert-spoon  of  dark  chocolate  icing,  close  the  horn  at  the  top, 
and  pressing  out  the  icing  from  the  small  opening,  draw  a line  of  it 
across  the  center  of  every  cake,  and  then  make  spots  like  those  on 
ivory  dominoes;  keep  the  horn  supplied  with  icing.  Or  use  a 
meringue  bag  if  you  have  one. 

Eggless  Jelly  Cake. — Two  cups  flour,  two  teaspoons  each  cream 
tartar  and  soda,  evenly  mixed  with  flour ; one  cup  each  sweet  milk 
and  sugar,  and  one  large  spoon  butter  or  lard.  Beat  all  together 
and  bake  in  a quick  oven.  An  excellent  cheap  jelly  cake. 

Fig  Cake. — Two  cups  sugar,  one  cup  each  butter  and  milk, 
three  of  flour,  two  teaspoons  baking  powder  sifted  with  flour,  whites 
of  eight  eggs.  Bake  in  layers.  Make  an  icing  of  whites  of  two  eggs  and 
half  pound  sugar,  and  mix  with  it  one  pound  each  figs,  blanched  al- 
monds and  filberts  chopped  fine  and  spread  between  layers ; or  cut 
half  pound  figs  fine  and  boil  until  soft  with  one  cup  sugar  and  half 
cup  water,  and  use  for  filling.  The  cake  may  be  more  economically 
made  by  using  yolks  of  five  eggs  and  whites  of  three  for  layers,  re- 
serving whites  of  two  for  icing. 

Fig  Cake. — Silver  part : Two  cups  sugar,  two-thirds  cup  but- 
ter, not  quite  two-thirds  cup  sweet  milk,  whites  of  eight  eggs,  three 
heaping  teaspoons  baking  powder  thoroughly  sifted  with  three  cups 
flour;  stir  sugar  and  butter  to  a cream,  add  milk  and  flour,  and 
last  whites  of  eggs.  Gold  part : One  cup  sugar,  three-fourths  cup 
butter,  half  cup  sweet  milk,  one  and  a half  teaspoons  baking  pow- 
der sifted  in  a little  more  than  one  and  a half  cups  flour,  yolks  of  seven 
eggs  thoroughly  beaten,  and  one  whole  egg,  one  teaspoon  allspice, 
and  cinnamon  until  it  tastes  ; bake  the  white  in  two  long  pie-tins. 
Put  half  the  gold  in  a pie-tin,  and  lay  on  one  pound  halved  figs 
(previously  sifted  over  with  flour),  so  that  they  will  just  touch  each 
other,  put  on  the  rest  of  the  gold  and  bake.  Put  the  cakes  together 
with  frosting  while  warm,  the  gold  between  the  white  ones,  and  cover 
with  frosting. 

Hard  Times  Cake. — Half  cup  butter,  two  of  sugar,  one  of  sour 
cream,  three  of  flour,  three  eggs,  half  teaspoon  soda ; bake  in  layers 
and  spread  with  jelly. 

Hickory-Nut  Custard  Cake. — Cream  one  pound  sugar  and  half 
pound  butter ; add  five  eggs  beaten  separatel}^  one  cup  sweet  milk, 


LAYER  CAKES. 


91 


one  pound  flour,  three  teaspoons  baking  powder,  flavor  with  lemon, 
and  bake  in  jelly-pans.  For  custard,  place  one  pint  milk  in  a tin 
pail  and  set  in  boiling  water ; add  a tablespoon  corn  starch  dissolv- 
ed in  a little  milk,  two  eggs,  one-half  cup  sugar,  two  cups  chopped 
hickory-nut  meats,  well  mixed  together,  to  the  boiling  milk  ;«stir,  and 
put  between  the  layers  of  the  cake,  while  both  cake  and  custard  are 
warm.  This  is  excellent. 

ice- Cream  Cake. — One-fourth  pound  each  butter  and  powdered 
sugar,  half  pint  milk,  half-pound  flour,  six  eggs,  one  glass  wine,  one 
nutmeg ; bake  quickly  in  iron  gem-pans.  They  rise  light  with  hol- 
low center.  When  cold,  cut  a round  hole  in  top  (as  you  would 
“plug”  a melon),  fill  with  ice-cream  just  before  serving,  so  that  it 
will  not  have  time  to  melt. 

Jelly  Roll. — Beat  twelve  eggs  and  one  pound  pulverized  sugar 
together  very  lightly,  then  stir  in  three-fourths  pound  flour,  making 
batter  as  light  as  for  sponge  cake,  aud  thin 
enough  to  spread  nicely  when  poured  ; make 
up  as  quickly  as  possible.  Have  shallow 
tin  pans  prepared  (about  twelve  by  eigh- 
teen inches  and  an  inch  deep)  by  lining 
with  thin  brown  paper,  using  no  grease  on  pan  or  paper ; pour  in 
batter,  spread  out  with  a knife  as  thin  as  possible  (about  half  an  inch 
thick),  and  bake  in  solid  oven.  When  done,  remove  from  oven,  let 
cool  a few  minutes,  and  while  still  warm,  but  not  hot,  turn  out  of 
pan  upside  down.  With  a brush  or  soft  cloth  wet  in  cold  water 
brush  over  the  paper  and  pull  it  off ; spread  cake  thin  with  jelly  and 
roll  it  up,  being  careful  to  place  the  outer  edge  of  roll  against  some- 
thing so  that  it  will  not  unroll  until  cold.  Sprinkle  with  powdered 
sugar  and  serve.  If  baked  in  pans  such  as  are  described  above,  the 
recipe  will  make  two  rolls,  each  twelve  inches  long,  which  should  be 
cut  in  two,  making  four  rolls.  Use  no  baking  powder  as  it  makes 
the  cake  too  brittle.  Many  use  none  in  sponge  cake.  The  paper 
lining  should  be  larger  than  pan,  to  lift  out  the  cake  by  taking  hold 
of  the  projecting  edges.  This  never  fails. 

Jelly  Roll. — Cream  one  cup  sugar  with  one  tablespoon  butter, 
and  add  three  eggs,  whites  and  yolks  beaten  separately,  one  cup  flour 
and  one  teaspoon  baking  powder ; bake  carefully  in  large  square  pan 
lined  with  buttered  paper,  spread  the  under  side  with  jelly,  and  roll 
while  hot,  folding  in  clean  towel  or  paper  to  keep  in  place.  Eco- 
nomical and  good.  For  Chocolate  Roll  use  this  filling.  One  cup 
powdered  sugar,  half  cup  grated  chocolate,  one  egg,  nearly  one- 
half  cup  milk  or  water,  boil  steadily  until  thick  as  jelly ; let  it  cool 
before  your  cake  is  ready. 

Lemon  Jelly  Cake. — Tavo  eggs,  one  cup  sugar,  one-third  cup 
butter,  one-half  cup  milk,  two  cups  sifted  flour,  a heaping  teaspoon 
baking  powder  ; bake  in  layers.  Jelly  : Two-thirds  cup  water,  on^ 


92 


LAYER  CAKES. 


cup  sugar,  juice  and  grated  rind  one  lemon ; let  boil  and  stir  in  two 
well-beaten  eggs.  When  cold  spread  between  layers.  The  top  may 
be  iced,  but  delicious  without. 


Lemon  CaJce. — One  and  one-half  cups  sugar,  one  butter,  two 
and  one*-half  flour,  flve  eggs  beaten  separately,  four  teaspoons  sweet 
milk,  teaspoon  cream  tartar,  half  teaspoon  soda.  For  jelly : Take 
coffee-cup  sugar,  two  tablespoons  butter,  two  eggs  and  the  juice  of 
two  lemons ; beat  all  together  and  boil  until  the  consistency  of  jelly. 
For  Orange  Cake  use  oranges  instead  of  lemons.  For  Pine-ajgjgle 
Cake  spread  the  layers  with  grated  pine-apple  sprinkled  with  sugar ; 
and  a nice  ornament  of  a pine-apple  is  described  in  Charlotte  Russe 
recipe. 


Lemon  Filling. — Grate  rind  of  one  lemon  and  pound  well  in  a 
mortar  with  one  ounce  sugar ; rub  into  this  with  the  pestle  one  egg 
and  juice  of  one  lemon  and  enough  ^^XXX  ” sugar  to  make  a nice 
smooth  paste. 

Lady  Fingers. — One  and  one-eighth  pound  of  flour,  one  of  pow-* 
dered  sugar,  ten  eggs ; beat  eggs  and  sugar  as 
light  as  for  sponge  cake;  sift  in  with  flour 
one  teaspoon  baking  powder  and  stir  slowly ; 
use  the  meringue  bag  described  in  confection- 
ery for  shaping  the  cakes ; press  and  run  the 
Plate  of  Lady  lingers.  dough  out  quickly  through  the  tube  into  a pan 
lined  with  light  brown  paper  (not  buttered),  making  each  about  a- 
finger  long  and  about  as  thick  as  a lead 
pencil,  being  careful  not  to  get  them  too 
wide.  Sprinkle  with  granulated  sugar, 
bake  in  a quick  oven,  and  when  cool  wet 
the  under  side  of  the  paper  with  a brush, 
remove  and  stick  the  fingers  together 
back  to  back.  The  bag,  when  made  of  ticking,  will  be  useful  in  mak- 
ing macaroons  and  other  small  cakes. 


Lady  Finger  Pan. 


Metropolitan  Cake. — Two  cups  sugar,  one  of  butter,  one  of  milk, 
nearly  four  cups  flour,  whites  eight  eggs,  three  teaspoons  baking 
powder,  flavor  with  lemon.  Take  a little  more  than  three-fifths  of 
this  mixture  in  three  jelly-tins,  add  to  the  remaining  batter  one  ta- 
blespoon ground  allspice,  one  and  a half  tablespoons  cinnamon,  tea- 
spoon cloves,  fourth  pound  each  of  sliced  citron  and  chopped  raisins ; 
bake  in  two  jelly-tins  and  put  together  with  frosting,  alternating 
dark  and  light, 

Minnehaha  Cake. — One  and  a half  cups  granulated  sugar,  half 
cup  butter  stirred  to  a cream,  whites  six  eggs,  or  three  whole  eggs, 
two  teaspoons  cream  tartar  stirred  in  two  heaping  cups  sifted  flour, 
one  teaspoon  soda  in  half  cup  sweet  milk ; bake  in  three  layers. 
For  filling,  take  a cup  sugar  and  a little  water  boiled  together  until 
it  is  brittle  when  dropped  in  cold  water,  remove  from  stove  and  stir 


LAYER  CAKES. 


93 


quickly  into  a well  beaten  white  of  an  egg ; add  to  this  a cup  of 
stoned  raisins  chopped  fine,  or  a cup  of  chopped  hickory-nut  meats, 
and  place  between  layers  and  over  the  top.  A universal  favorite. 

Neapolitan  Cake  (Yellow,  Pink,  White  and  Brown). — Yel- 
low : Two  cups  powdered  sugar  creamed  with  one  cup  butter,  five 
eggs,  yolks  and  whites  beaten  separately,  one-half  cup  milk,  three 
cups  prepared  flour,  a little  nutmeg.  Pink  and  White : One-half 
pound  butter  creamed  with  one  pound  powdered  sugar,  whites  ten 
eggs  whipped  stiff,  and  one  pound  prepared  flour ; divide  this  batter 
into  two  equal  portions,  leave  one  white  and  color  the  other  with  a 
very  little  prepared  cochineal.  Use  carefully,  as  a few  drops  too 
much  will  ruin  the  color.  Brown  : One-fourth  cup  butter  creamed 
with  one  cup  powdered  sugar,  add  three  eggs  beaten  lightly,  two 
tablespoons  cream,  one  heaping  cup  prepared  flour,  and  two  table- 
spoons vanilla  chocolate  grated  and  rubbed  smooth  in  cream ; bake 
in  layers,  the  above  quantity  making  three  of  each  color.  Half  as 
much  will  be  sufficient  for  a family  cake,  but  for  a large  supper  or 
church  “sociable”  use  the  whole  recipe.  Filling — Yellow  and 
Brown : Tavo  cups  milk,  two  tablespoons  corn  starch  wet  with  milk, 
two  eggs,  Uvo  cups  powdered  sugar ; heat  the  milk  to  boiling,  stir  in 
the  sugar  and  corn  starch,  cook  a fcAV  minutes  and  put  in  the  eggs, 
boiling  until  thick.  Divide  the  custard  into  two  parts,  and  stir  into 
one  Uvo  tablespoons  grated  chocolate,  and  into  the  other  a teaspoon 
bitter  almond.  White  : Whip  into  the  stiffened  whites  of  three  eggs 
one  heaping  cup  powdered  sugar,  and  the  juice  and  half  the  grated 
peel  of  one  lemon.  Use  a layer  of  the  brown  cake  as  a foundation 
for  the  pile  spread  with  yellow  custard,  then  the  pink  coated  with 
chocolate,  then  the  white  and  yellow  layers  separated  with  the  white 
frosting,  or  put  together  in  any  order  fancied.  Very  elaborate  and 
nice. 

Orange  Cane. — Beat  whites  of  three  and  yolks  of  five  eggs  sep- 
arately ; cream  two  cups  sugar  and  a half  cup  butter ; add  one-half 
cup  cold  Avater,  Uvo  and  one-half  cups  flour,  two  teaspoons  baking 
poAvder  and  the  grated  rind  and  juice  of  one  orange  (saving  one  ta- 
blespoon juice  for  frosting).  Bake  in  layers  and  put  together  with 
this  frosting : Whites  of  tAvo  eggs,  tAvo  cups  sugar  and  the  table- 
spoon orange  juice.  Frosb  top  also. 

Orange  Custard  Cake. — One  and  one-half  cups  sugar,  one  cup 
butter,  two  and  one-half  cups  flour,  five  Avell  beaten  eggs,  four  tea- 
spoons SAveet  milk,  tAvo  teaspoons  baking  poAvder.  Bake  in  layers. 
For  filling:  Taa^  AAdiole  oranges  grated  Avith  peel  of  one;  one  cup 
sugp,  tAvo  tablespoons  butter,  two  eggs  : beat  Avell  together  and  boil 
until  it  thickens,  stirring  to  keep  it  from  burning  on  the  bottom. 

Orange  Cake. — Taa^o  cups  sugar,  half  cup  butter,  three  and  a 
half  cups  sifted  flour,  half  cup  SAveet  milk,  three  eggs  beaten  sepa- 
rately. three  teaspoons  baking  poAvder  mixed  in  flour ; bake  in  jelly- 


94 


LAYER  CAKES. 


pans.  For  jelly,  take  the  juice  and  grated  rind  of  two  oranges,  two 
*ablespoons  cold  water,  two  cups  sugar ; set  in  a . pot  of  boiling 
water  and  when  scalding  hot  stir  in  the  yolks  of  two  well  beaten 
eggs,  and  just  before  taking  from  the  fire  stir  in  the  white  of  one  egg 
slightly  beaten,  and  when  cold  put  between  the  layers  of  cake ; frost 
the  top  with  the  other  egg. 

Ribbon  Cake. — Two  and  a half  cups  sugar,  one  of  butter,  one 
sweet  milk,  teaspoon  cream  tartar,  half  teaspoon  soda,  four  cups 
flour,  four  eggs  ; reserve  a third  of  this  mixture  and  bake  the  rest  in 
two  loaves'  of  the  same  size ; add  to  third  reserved,  one  cup  each 
raisins  and  currants,  fourth  pound  citron,  two  tablespoons  molasses, 
teaspoon  each  of  all  kinds  of  spice ; bake  in  a tin  the  same  size  as 
other  loaves ; put  the  three  loaves  together  with  a little  icing  or  cur- 
rant jelly,  placing  the  fruit  loaf  in  the  middle;  frost  the  top  and 
sides. 

Cream  Rose  Cake. — Stir  into  a cup  sweet  cream  with  a pinch 
soda,  one  cup  butter  creamed  with  three  cups  powdered  sugar ; whip 
with  egg  beater  five  minutes,  or  until  like  whipped  cream ; flavor 
with  vanilla  and  add  by  turns  five  cups  prepared  flour  and  the  frosted 
whites  of  ten  eggs.  Color  a fine  pink  with  cochineal,  which  is  per- 
fectly harmless  and  which  your  druggist  will  prepare  for  you  in 
either  powdered  or  liquid  form.  If  in  the  former,  moisten  before 
using  with  a very  little  water.  Strain  and  stir  in  drop  by  drop  until 
you  get  the  right  tint.  Bake  in  four  layers.  For  filling,  take  one 
and  one-half  cocoa-nuts  pared  and  grated,  whites  four  eggs  whisked 
stiff,  one  and  one-half  cups  powdered  sugar,  two  teaspoons  rose  water. 
Heap  the  cake  after  it  is  filled  with  this  mixture,  beating  in  more 
sugar  for  the  purpose.  Very  pretty. 

Snow  Cake. — Beat  one  cup  butter  to  a cream,  add  one  and  a 
half  cups  flour  and  stir  very  thoroughly  together  ; then  add  one  cup 
corn  starch  and  one  cup  sweet  milk  in  which  three  teaspoons  baking 
powder  have  been  dissolved ; last,  add  whites  eight  eggs  and  two 
cups  sugar  well  beaten  together ; flavor  to  taste,  bake  in  sheets  and 
put  together  with  icing.  For  Coeoa-n  ut  Cream  Cake  use  this  filling : 
AVhip  one  cup  cream,  one-half  cup  sugar,  one  cup  cocoa-nut ; spread 
between  layers  and  on  top ; flavor  to  taste. 

Cream  Sponge  Cake. — Cream  yolks  of  ten  eggs  with  one  pound 
sugar,  add  the  whipped  whites,  sift  in  six  ounces  flour  and  flavor 
with  one  teaspoon  almond  extract.  Have  ready  this  filling  : Mix 
four  eggs,  four  ounces  sugar,  two  ounces  flour,  and  stir  smoothly 
into  one  quart  milk.  Cook  until  thick,  stirring  well ; take  from  the 
stove,  add  one  teaspoon  extract  nectarine,  and  let  cool  before  spread- 
ing the  cake,  which  must  be  baked  in  layers  twenty  to  thirty  min- 
utes, covered  with  a paper  to  prevent  scorching. 

Thanksgiving  Cake. — Make  batter  as  for  cocoa-nut  cake  (page 
72).  Bake  four  layers  in  jelly-tins  ; make  frosting  of  whites  of  three 


LAYER  CAKES. 


9D 


eggs,  three  teaspoons  baking  powder  and  three-fourths  pound  pul- 
verized sugar;  with  frosting  for  first  layer  mix  — ^ 

rolled  hickory-nut  meats,  with  that  for  second  lay- 
er  mix  fine-sliced  figs,  for  third  with  blanched  al- 
monds  chopped,  and  on  the  top  spread  the  plain  Layer  cake, 
frosting,  and  grate  cocoa-nut  over  thickly. 

Vanity  Cake. — One  and  a half  cups  sugar,  half  cup  butter,  half 
cup  sweet  milk,  one  and  a half  cups  flour,  half  cup  corn  starch,  tea- 
spoon baking  powder,  whites  six  eggs ; bake  in  four  cakes,  putting 
frosting  between  and  on  top. 

Velvet  Cake: — Two  cups  sugar,  six  eggs,  leaving  out  the  whites 
of  three,  one  cup  boiling  hot  water,  two  and  one-half  cups  flour,  one 
tablespoon  baking  powder  in  flour ; beat  the  yolks  a little,  add  the 
sugar,  and  beat  fifteen  minutes  ; add  the  three  beaten  whites,  and  the 
cup  of  boiling  water  just  before  the  flour ; flavor  with  a teaspoon 
lemon  extract  and  bake  in  three  layers,  putting  between  them  icing 
made  by  adding  to  the  three  whites  of  eggs  beaten  to  a stiff  froth, 
six  dessert-spoons  of  pulverized  sugar  to  each  egg,  and  lemon  to 
flavor. 

White  Fruit  Cake. — To  one  cup  butter  beaten  to  a cream,  add 
two  of  sugar,  three  of  flour  in  which  two  teaspoons  baking  powder 
have  been  sifted,  and  the  stiffly  beaten  whites  of  six  eggs.  Bake  in 
jelly-cake  tins  ; when  done  (while  still  hot)  put  between  the  layers 
this  filling  : Chop  fine  a quarter  pound  each  of  figs,  seeded  raisins, 
citron,  preserved  ginger  and  blanched  almonds,  and  stir  them  into 
whites  three  eggs  beaten  stiff,  a cup  powdered  sugar,  and  the  juice 
of  one  lemon ; frost  the  wfflole  quickly.  A most  delicious  cake. 

White  Mountain  Cake. — Two  cups  pulverized  sugar,  half  cup 
butter  beaten  to  a cream ; add  half  cup  sweet  milk,  two  and  a half 
cups  flour,  two  and  a half  teaspoons  baking  powder  in  the  flour^ 
whites  eight  eggs;  bake  in  jelly-tins  and  put  together  with. icing 
made  by  boiling  a half  cup  water  and  three  cups  sugar  till  thick  ; 
pour  it  slowly  over  the  well-beaten  whites  three  eggs,  and  beat  all 
together  till  cool.  Beat  before  putting  on  each  layer ; or  use  plain 
icing.  Sprinkle  each  layer  thickly  with  grated  cocoa-nut,  also  sides 
and  top,  using  two  cocoa-nuts,  and  a handsome  Cocoa-nut  Cake  will 
result. 


^6 


COOKIES  AND  JUMBLES. 


Xenophon  Cake. — One  cup  sugar,  half  each  of  butter  and  milk, 
whites  of  four  eggs,  scant  two  cups  flour,  flavor  with  vanilla ; two 
teaspoons  baking  powder.  Stir  flour  in  last  very  lightly.  Bake  in 
layers  and  when  cold  spread  with  this  Ailing ; scant  pound  shelled 
almonds,  blanched  and  pounded  in  a mortar  ( or  a bowl  may  be  used 
with  the  potato-masher),  half  cup  thick  sour  cream,  juice  of  half  a 
lemon,  make  very  sweet.  Mix  and  let  stand  in  cold  place  one  hour 
before  using.  Delicious  but  must  be  eaten  the  day  it  is  made. 


Cookies  and  Jnmbles.  • 


Cookie  Cutters. 


Sift  before  measuring  all  flour  used  in  mixing  and  rolling,  and 
bake  in  a quick  oven.  A nice  “ finishing  touch  ” can  be  given  by 
sprinkling  them  with  granulated  sugar  or  seeds,  and  rolling  over 
lightly  with  the  rolling  pin,  then  cutting  out  and  press- 
ing a whole  raisin  in  the  center  of  each ; or,  when  done 
a very  light  brown,  brush  over  while  still  hot  with  a 
small  bristle  brush  called  a pastry  brush,  and  kept  for 
such  purposes,  or  a soft  bit  of  rag  dipped  in  a thick 
syrup  of  sugar  and  water,  or  the  roll  glaze  made  of  yolk  of  one  egg. 
Its  bulk  in  water  and  quarter  teaspoon  sugar ; sprinkle  with  currants, 

cocoa-nut,  or  any 
seed  preferred,  and 
return  to  the  oven 
a m o m ent.  Seed 
cookies  may  oe 
made  by  adding  one 
tablespoon  caraway 
seeds  to  any  of  the  following  recipes.  Flour  should  never  he  used 
for  any  purpose  without  sifting,  so  it  is  well  to  always  have  a large 
covered  can  or  bucket  full  of  sifted  flour  in  the  pantry. 


Combination  Cake  Board. 


BacheloCs  Buttons. — Mix  two  ounces  butter,  three  of  sugar,  five 
of  flour  ; to  this  add  two  ounces  sugar  mixed  with  one  egg ; flavor  to 
taste.  Boll  in  hand  to  size  of  a large  nut,  then  roll  in  sugar,  place 
on  tins  with  buttered  paper  and  bake  lightly. 

Chocolate  Cookies. — Three-fourths  cake  chocolate,  two  cups 
white  sugar,  one  of  butter,  one-half  cup  cold  water,  two  eggs,  one 
'^f^asDoon  soda,  flour  to  roll.  To  finish  nicely  ice  the  tops. 


COOKIES  AND  JUMBLES. 


97 


Cream  Cookies.  — One  cup  each  sour  cream  and  sugar,  one  egg, 
jne  level  teaspoon  soda,  nutmeg ; mix  as  soft  as  can  be  handled,  roll 
thin  and  bake  quickly. 

Eggless  Cookies. — Two  cups  sugar,  one  each  milk  and  butter, 
half  teaspoon  each  nutmeg  and  soda,  flour  to  roll. 

Fruit  Cookies. — Two  cups  sugar,  half  cup  butter,  cup  sour 
cream,  (or  sour  milk  may  be  used  with  more  butter),  two  cups 
chopped  raisins,  two  eggs,  two  tablespoons  cinnamon,  one  teaspoon 
each  nutmeg,  cloves,  and  soda.  Bake  same  as  other  cookies. 

Graham  Cookies. — Shave  two  cups  maple  sugar,  and  stir  with 
one  of  butter,  one  egg,  one  cup  sour  milk,  one  teaspoon  soda ; mix 
with  graham  flour ; use  white  flour  on  molding  board.  Brown  or 
white  sugar  may  be  used  instead  of  maple. 


Good  Cookies. — Two  cups  sugar,  one  each  butter  and  sour  cream 
or  milk,  three  eggs,  one  teaspoon  soda ; mix  soft,  roll  thin,  sift  gran- 
ulated sugar  over  them,  and  gently  roll  it  in. 


Hickory-Nut  Cookies. — Two  cups  sugar,  two  eggs,  half  cup 
melted  butter,  six  tablespoons  milk,  one  teaspoon  cream  tartar,  hall 
:easpoon  soda,  flour  to  roll  and  one  cup  chopped  meats  stirred  in  the 
Tough. 

Nutmeg  Cookies. — Two  cups  white  sugar,  three-fourths  cup 
butter,  two-thirds  cup  sour  milk,  nutmeg  or  caraway  seed  for  flavor, 
two  eggs,  half  teaspoon  soda,  and  six  cups  flour,  or  enough  to  roll. 
Boll  thin,  and  bake  in  quick  oven. 


North  German  Christmas  Cookies.— pounds  flour,  two 
oach  of  sugar,  butter,  and  molasses,  one  teaspoon  saleratus  dissolved 
in  rose  water,  arrack,  or  spirits,  a few  cloves  and  cinna- 
mon pounded  together,  one  pound  raisins  pounded  in 
a mortar,  half  pound  citron  chopped  fine.  Warm  mo- 
lasses, sugar  and  butter  slightly,  and  gradually  stir  in 
the  flour;  knead  well  and  roll  out,  and  cut  in  various  cookie  cutters, 
shapes.  One-half  the  dough  may  be  flavored  with  anise  or  carda- 
mon, omitting  the  raisins.  This  recipe  will  make  a large  quantity, 
and  they  are  pretty  to  hang  upon  the  tree  during  Christmas  week, 
and  to  pass  in  baskets  to  holiday  callers.  This  is  the  hona  fide 
Christmas  cookie. 


Seed  Cookies. — Cream  one-half  pound  butter  with  three-fourths 
pound  sugar,  and  sift  in  one  and  one-half  pounds  flour,  adding  one 
well-beaten  egg,  a half  gill  rose  water,  and  a pinch  soda  dissolved  in 
tablespoon  warm  water,  knead  well,  roll  into  a sheet,  cut  with  cutter 
having  scalloped  edge,  and  bake  in  buttered  pan  fifteen  minutes. 
Use  fennel,  coriander,  caraway,  or  cardamon  seeds,  or  any  mixture 
jf  them  preferred.  y 


98 


COOKIES  AND  JUMBLES. 


Scotch  Cookies. — Half  cup  molasses,  one  and  a half  of  sugar^ 
one  and  a quarter  of  butter  ( or  half  butter  and  half  lard),  two  eggs,  tea- 
spoon each  soda,  cloves  and  allspice,  two  of  cinnamon,  and  flour 
to  roll ; roll  thin,  cut  and  oake ; or  a richer  recipe  is  two  and  a half 
pounds  sugar,  one  and  a fourth  of  butter,  three  of  flour,  five  eggs, 
half  pint  molasses  and  one  ounce  soda  mixed  with  it ; roll  very  thin, 
cut  with  cake  cutter,  place  in  pan,  giving  each  cake  plenty  of  room, 
and  put  in  oven ; when  half  done  brush  over  top  with  glaze  made 
with  yolk  of  an  egg,  as  much  water  as  there  is  egg,  and  quarter  of 
teaspoon  sugar]  return  to  oven  and  hake. 

Whortleherry  Soft  Cookies. — One  cup  sugar,  one  and  a half  of 
milk,  with  half  teaspoon  soda  dissolved  in  it,  tablespoon  butter,  one 
quart  berries,  teaspoon  cream  tartar,  and  flour  to  make  a stiff  batter ; 
bake  in  small  cake  tins. 

Crescents. — Hub  eight  ounces  each  rice  flour  and  sugar  togeth- 
er, and  add  eight  eggs  mixed  to  a cream  after  the  yolks  and  whites 
have  been  beaten  separately;  stir  all  together  smoothly,  spread  thin- 
ly on  buttered  paper,  and  bake  twenty  minutes ; then  cut  wdth  u 
crescent  cutter  into  cakes,  ice  each  one,  and  set  in  the  oven  for  ai 
minute  to  dry.  Vary  the  icing  if  liked  by  coloring  portions  with 
cochineal  and  saffron,  icing  some  of  the  crescents  pink,  some  yellow 
and  the  effect  is  very  pretty. 

JeiD  Cakes. — Three-fourths  pound  each  butter  and  sugar,  onC' 
pound  flour,  two  eggs,  two  teaspoons  baking  powder ; roll  thin,  cut 
out,  wash  over  top  with  an  egg  beaten  in  half  cup  cream,  sprinkle 
with  pound  finel}"  chopped  almonds  mixed  with  pound  fine  granU' 
lated  sugar,  and  bake  in  quick  oven . 

Jurahles. — One  and  a half  cups  white  sugar,  three-fourths  cu;^ 
butter,  three  eggs,  three  tablespoons  sweet  milk,  half  teaspoon  soda, 
and  one  of  cream  tartar ; mix  with  sufficient  flour  to  roll ; roll  and 
sprinkle  with  sugar  ; cut  out  and  bake. 

Cocoa-nut  Jumbles. — Two  cups  sugar,  one  cup  butter,  two  eggs, 
half  a grated  cocoa-nut ; make  just  stiff  enough  to  roll  out ; roll  thin. 

Lemon  Jumbles. — One  egg,  one  cup  sugar,  half  cup  butter,  three 
teaspoons  milk,  one  teaspoon  cream  tartar,  half  teaspoon  soda,  two 
small  lemons,  juice  of  both  and  grated  rind  of  one  ; mix  rather  stiff, 
roll,  and  cut  with  cake  cutter. 

Tjemon  Snaps. — A large  cup  sugar,  two-thirds  c‘up  butter,  half 
teaspoon  soda  dissolved  in  two  teaspoons  hot  water,  flour  enough  to 
roll  thin  ; flavor  with  lemon, 

Pepper-mi.U. — One  pound  sugar,  five  eggs,  half  pound  butter, 
half  cup  milk,  two  teaspoons  baking  powder,  flour  enough  to  roll. 

Warranted  Scotch  ‘‘  Short  BreadJ — Wash  all  particles  of  salt 


CEULLERS  AND  DOUGHNUTS. 


99 


from  one  pound  best  butter  and  cream  with  scant  one-half  pound 
sugar.  Dry  and  slightly  warm  two  pounds  flour  and  mix  gradually 
with  the  hand  with  the  butter  and  sugar.  The  longer  it  is  kneaded 
the  better  it  will  be.  Lay  on  molding-board  and  press  with  the  hand 
into  sheets  half  an  inch  thick.  Do  not  roll,  as  rolling  toughens  it. 
Cut  into  any  desired  shapes,  prick  or  stamp  a pattern  on  top,  and 
bake  in  moderate  oven  until  a flne  yellow  brown. 

SprmgerUes.  — One  pound  sugar,  lour  eggs  beaten  light  and 
thick,  add  pound  flour  into  which  teaspoon  baking  powder  has  been 
sifted  and  roll  into  little  balls,  press  with  a small  glass  plate  or  salt 
cellar,  let  stand  until  morning  and  bake  in  quick  oven.  Or,  roll  and 
cut  out  with  any  of  the  cookie  cutters  illustrated ; let  rise  and  bake 
as  above. 

Sand  Tarts. — Two  cups  sugar,  one 
of  butter,  three  of  flour,  two  eggs,  leaving 
out  the  white  of  one ; roll  out  thin  and  cut 
in  square  cakes  with  a knife ; spread  the 
white  of  egg  on  top,  sprinkle  with  cinna- 
mon and  sugar,  and  press  a blanched 
almond  or  raisin  in  the  center,  or  cut 
and  ornament  with  stamps  similar  to 
those  in  cut 


A 

JM 

£ 

a| 

Cookie  Starups. 


Crullers  and  Dougliiiuts. 


To  cook  these  properly  the  fat  should  be  of  the  right  heat. 
When  hot  enough  it  will  cease  to  bubble  and  be  perfectly  still,  and  a 
blue  smoke  will  arise ; try  with  a bit  of  the  batter  and  if  the  heat  is 
right  the  dough  will  rise  in  a few  seconds  to  the  top  and  occasion  a 
bubbling  in  the  fat,  the  cake  will  swell  and  the  under  side  quickly 
become  brown.  Clarifled  drippings  of  roast  meat  or  the  American 
Cooking  Oil  just  introduced,  and  made  of  refined  Cotton  Seed  Oil,  are 
more  wholesome  to  fry  them  in  than  lard.  A good  suet  may  be  prepared 
as  follows  for  those  who  are  sensible  enough  not  to  like  greasy  dough- 
nuts, or  who  Hebraically  oppose  lard.  Use  only  beef  suet,  which  is 
quite  as  cheap,  cleanly  and  healthy.  Buy  from  the  meat  markets, 
speaking  before-hand  and  securing  nice,  whole,  clean  leaves,  which 
cut  up  in  small  pieces,  put  into  a dinner-pot,  which  will  hold  well 
about  ten  pounds.  Put  in  a pint  of  water,  and  after  the  first  hour  stir 
frequently ; it  takes  about  three  hours  with  a good  heat  to  render  it. 
Drain  through  a coarse  towel,  and  if  the  suet  is  good  it  will  require 
but  little  squeezing  and  leave  but  little  scraj)  or  cracklings.  Cool  in 


100 


CRULLERS  AND  DOUGHNUTS. 


Doughnut  Twists, 


pans  or  jars,  then  cover  and  put  in  a cool  place,  and  you  have  an  ele- 
ment into  which,  when  well  heated,  you  can  drop 
the  twisted  goodies  with  the  assurance  that  they 
will  not  only  be  “ done  brown,”  but  that  they  will 
emerge  with  a flavor  and  grain  that  will  commend 
them  to  the  favor  of  an  epicure.  Doughnuts 
thus  cooked  are  more  digestible  and  of  better 
flavor  than  if  cooked  in  lard,  and  the  most 
fastidious  will  not  need  to  peel  them  before 
eating.  Make  the  dough  as  soft  as  it  can  he  handled^  always  sifting 
the  flour ; if  cut  about  half  an  inch  thick,  five  to  eight  minutes  will 
be  time  enough  to  cook,  but  it  is  better  to  break  one  open  as  a test. 
When  done  drain  well  in  a skimmer  and  place  in  a colander  or  on 
brown  paper,  which  absorbs  the  fat.  If  to  be  sifted  over  with  sugar, 
use  powdered  sugar,  and  sprinkle  over  them  while  hot.  The  use  of 
eggs  prevents  the  dough  from  absorbing  the  fat.  Doughnuts  should 
be  watched  closely  while  frying,  and  the  fire  must  be  regulated  very 
carefully.  When  you  have  finished  frying,  cut  a potato  in  slices  and 
put  in  the  fat  to  clarify  it,  place  the  kettle  away  ■ until  the  fat 
“ settles,”  strain  into  an  earthen  pot  kept  for  this  purpose,  and  set 
in  a cool  place.  The  sediment  remaining  in  the  bottom  of  the  kettle 
may  be  used  for  soap-grease.  Fry  in  an  iron  'kettle,  the  common 
skillet  being  too  shallow  for  the  purpose.  Do  not  eat  doughnuts  be- 
tween April  and  November.  Crullers  are  better  the  day  after  they 
are  made.  If  lard  is  not  fresh  and  sweet,  slice  a raw  potato,  and  fry 
before  putting  in  the  cakes. 

Crullers. — One  egg,  one  tablespoon  melted  butter,  three  table- 
spoons sugar,  make  very  stiff  with  flour,  roll  rather  thin ; they  will 
fry  very  quickly ; take  them  from  the  fat  well  drained  and  dip  them 
in  sugar. 

Crullers. — Six  tablespoons  each  melted  butter  and  sugar,  six 
eggs  and  flour  to  roll. 

Crullers. — One  pound  butter,  one  and  one-half  pounds  powder- 
ed sugar,  twelve  eggs,  one  teaspoon  cinnamon,  one-half  teaspoon 
each  nutmeg  and  mace,  flour  to  make  stiff  dough.  Eoll  to  a half 
inch  in  thickness ; cut  out  and  fry. 

Crullers. — Two  coffee-cups  sugar,  one  of  sweet  milk,  three  eggs, 
a heaping  tablespoon  butter,  three  teaspoons  baking  powder  mixed 
with  six  cups  flour,  half  a nutmeg,  and  a level  teaspoon  cinnamon. 
Beat  eggs,  sugar  and  butter  together,  add  milk,  spices,  and  flour ; put 
another  cup  flour  on  molding  board,  turn  the  dough  out  on  it, 


CEULLERS  AND  DOUGHNUTS. 


101 


and  knead  until  stiff  enough  to  roll  out  to  a quarter  inch  thick ; 
cut  in  squares,  make  three  or  four  long  incesions  in  each  square, 
lift  by  taking  alternate  strips  between  the  finger  and  thumb,  drop 
into  hot  lard,  and  cook  like  doughnuts,  or  they  may  be  shaped  as 
in  Figure  1,  or  given  the  much  more  elaborate  shape  of  Figure  3. 


2 


To  give  them  the  shape  of  Fig.  3,  first  cut  the  paste,  as  in  Fig.  2 ; 
hold  the  first  line  with  thumb  and  finger  of  the  left  hand,  then 
with  the  right  hand  slip  the  second  line  under  the  first,  then  the 
third  under  the  second,  and  so  on  until  they  are  all  slipped  under ; 
pinch  the  two  ends  together,  and  the  cruller  will  be  in  form  of  Fig.  3. 

Doughnuts —OnQ  cup  each  sugar  and  milk,  butter  size  of  an 
egg,  one  large  teaspoon  baking  powder,  nutmeg  or  other  spice  to 
taste ; knead  and  roll  out  soft  as  possible.  An  egg  is  often  added. 


Cream  Doughnuts. — Beat  one  cup  each  sour  cream 
(or  sour  milk  with  tablespoon  butter),  cup  sugar  and 
two  eggs  together,  add  level  teaspoon  soda,  a little  salt, 
spices  if  wished,  and  flour  enough  to  roll  and  cut  out 
easily.  When  partly  cool  roll  in  white  sugar. 


Doughnut  Cutter. 


Corn  Meal  Doughnuts. — A tea-cup  and  a half  boiling  milk 
poured  over  two  tea-cups  meal ; when  cool  add  two  cups  flour,  one 
of  butter,  one  and  one-half  of  sugar,  three  eggs,  flavor  with  nutmeg 
or  cinnamon ; let  rise  till  very  light ; roll  about  half  an  inch  thick, 
cut  in  diamond  shape,  and  boil  in  hot  lard. 


French  DoughmUs. — One  cup  butter,  three  of  white  sugar,  one 
pint  sweet  milk,  four  eggs,  teaspoon  soda,  two  of  cream  tartar  and 
juice  of  one  lemon. 


Raised  Doughnuts. — Peel  and  boil  four  good  sized  potatoes  ; 
mash  fine  and  pour  boiling  water  over  them  until  consistency  of 
gruel ; let  cool,  add  a yeast  cake  and  a little  flour,  let  rise  till  light, 
then  add  one  pinb  sweet  milk,  one  and  a half  cups  sugar,  one-fourth 
cup  (large  measure)  lard,  a salt-spoon  salt,  a little  nutmeg  and  cin- 
nam(>n,  stir  in  flour  until  stiff,  let  rise  again,  then  add  a half  tea. 
spoon  soda  dissolved  in  a little  milk,  pour  out  on  molding  board, 
mix  stiff  enough  to  cut  out,  and  roll  to  half  an  inch  thickness ; cul, 
in  long  strips  two  inches  wide  and  divide  diagonally  into  pieces  thref? 
inches  long,  set  where  it  is  warm,  let  rise  on  the  board  until  lighi,, 
and  then  fry.  These  do  not  cook  through  as  easily  as  others,  and  i f, 
is  safer  to  drop  in  one,  and,  by  breaking  it  open,  learn  the  time  re- 
quired for  them  to  fry.  A very  nice  variation  of  this  recipe  may  be 
made  as  follows  ■.  Boll  part  of  the  dough  about  half  an  inch  thick, 


GINGER-BREAD. 


/ 


:i02 


out  into  small  biscuits,  let  rise,  and  when  light  roll  down  a little,  lay 
a few  raisins  rolled  in  cinnamon  in  the  center,  wet  the  edges  by  dip- 
ping the  finger  in  cold  water  and  passing  it  over  them ; draw  them 
together  and  press  -firmly^  and  drop  them  in  the  hot  fat.  A teaspoon 
apple-butter  or  any  kind  of  jam  may  be  used  instead  of  the  raisins. 
When  made  with  the  raisins,  they  are  the  real  German  ‘^Olly  Koeks.” 

Berlin  Pa/ncahes. — Roll  out  dough  slightly  sweetened  and 
shortened,  as  if  for  very  plain  doughnuts ; cut  in  circles  like  biscuit, 
put  a teaspoon  currant  jam  or  jelly  on  the  center  of  one,  lay  another 
upon  it,  press  the  edges  tightly  together  with  the  fingers  and  fry 
quickly  in  boiling  fat.  They  will  be  perfect  globes  when  done,  a little 
smaller  than  an  orange. 

Trifles. — A quart  fiour,  a cup  sugar,  two  tablespoons  melted 
butter,  a little  salt,  two  teaspoons  baking  powder,  one  egg,  and  sweet 
milk  sufficient  to  make  rather  stiff ; roll  out  in  fhin  sheets,  cut  in 
pieces  about  two  by  four  inches ; make  as  many  cuts  across  the  short 
way  as  possible,  inserting  the  knife  near  one  edge  and  ending  the  cut 
just  before  reaching  the  other.  Pass  two  knitting-needles  under 
every  other  strip,  spread  the  needles  as  far  apart  as  possible,  and 
with  them  hold  the  trifles  in  the  fat  until  a light  brown.  Only  one 
can  be  fried  at  a time. 

Andover  Wonders. — Boil  together  one  cup  water,  tablespoon 
powdered  sugar,  half  teaspoon  salt  and  two  ounces  butter,  and  while 
boiling  add  sufficient  flour  to  make  it  leave  sides  of  pan ; stir  in  one 
by  one  the  yolks  four  eggs  ; drop  into  hot  lard  from  a teaspoon  and 
fry  light  brown. 


Gringer  - Bread. 


Use  sifted  flour  for  mixing  and  rolling  ginger-bread  (sifting  be- 
fore measuring),  and  if  the  dough  becomes  too  stiff  before  it  is  rolled 
out  set  it  before  the  fire.  Snaps  will  not  be  crisp  if  made  on  a rainy 
day.  Ginger-bread  and  cakes  require  a moderate  oven,  snaps  a 
quick  one.  If  cookies  or  snaps  become  moist  in  keeping,  put  them 
in  the  oven  and  heat  them  for  a few  moments.  Always  use  New 
Orleans  or  Porto  Rico  molasses,  and  never  syrups.  Soda  is  used  to 
act  on  the  “ spirit  ” of  the  molasses.  In  making  the  old-fashioned, 
soft,  square  cakes  of  ginger-bread,  put  a portion  of  the  dough  on  a 
well  floured  tin  sheet,  roll  evenly  to  each  side,  trim  off  evenly  around 
the  edges,  and  mark  off  in  squares  with  a floured  knife  or  wheel  cut- 


GINGER-BEEAD. 


103 


ter.  In  this  way  the  dough  may  be  softer  than  where  it  is  necessary 
to  pick  up  to  remove  from  board  after  rolling  and  cutting.  Always 
have  the  board  well  covered  with  sifted  flour  before  rolling  all  kinds 
of  soft  ginger-breads,  as  they  are  liable  to  stick,  and  should  always 
be  mixed  as  soft  as  they  can  be  handled. 

Ginger -hr ead. — 'One  gallon  molasses  or  strained  honey,  one  and 
a quarter  pounds  butter,  quarter  pound  soda  stirred  in  a half  cup 
sweet  milk,  teaspoon  alum  dissolved  in  just  enough  water  to  cover 
it,  flour  to  make  it  stiff  enough  to  roll  out ; put  the  molasses  in  a 
very  large  dish,  add  the  melted  butter  and  soda,  then  all  the  other 
ingredients  ; mix  in  the  evening  and  set  in  a warm  place  to  rise  over^ 
night ; in  the  morning  knead  it  a long  time  like  bread,  roll  into 
squares  half  an  inch  thick,  and  bake  in  bread-pans  in  an  oven  heated 
about  right  for  bread.  To  make  it  glossy,  rub  over  the  top  just  be- 
fore putting  it  into  the  oven  the  following : One  well  beaten  egg,  the 
same  amount  or  a little  more  sweet  cream,  stirring  egg  and  cream 
well  together.  This  ginger-bread  will  keep  an  unlimited  time.  The 
recipe  is  complete  without  ginger,  but  two  tablespoons  may  be  used 
if  preferred.  Over  iifty  years  old^  and  formerly  used  for  general 
muster  days 

Ginger-hread. — One  cup  each  sugar  and  molasses,  one-half  cup 
butter,  two  eggs,  one  tablespoon  each  saleratus  and  ginger,  one  tea- 
spoon allspice,  one  cup  boiling  water,  four  cups  flour. 

Alum  Ginger-hread. — Pint  molasses,  cup  melted  lard,  table- 
spoon each  ginger  and  salt,  cup  boiling  water ; in  half  the  water  dis- 
solve tablespoon  pulverized  alum,  and  in  the  other  half  a heaping 
tablespoon  soda;  stir  in  just  flour  enough  to  knead ; roll  about  half 
an  inch  thick,  cut  in  oblong  cards,  and  bake  in  a tolerably  quick 
oven. 

Fairy  Ginger-hread. — Cream  one  cup  butter  with  two  of  sugar, 
add  tablespoon  ginger,  three-fourths  teaspoon  soda  in  cup  milk,  and 
four  cups  flour ; butter  baking  pans,  spread  cake  mixture  thin  as  a 
wafer  on  them,  and  bake  in  moderate  oven  till  brown.  The  moment 
it  comes  from  the  oven  cut  into  squares  with  case-knife  and  slip 
from  pan.  Delicious.  Keep  in  tin  box. 

Loaf  Ginger-hread.--lA^.dX  together  for  ten  minutes  one  cup  each 
butter,  molasses,  and  sugar  with  a tablespoon 
each  ginger  and  cinnamon,  then  add  a half 
cup  cold  water,  tablespoon  soda  dissolved  in 
boiling  water,  and  flour  to  stir  very  hard.  ^.ugeroreaa  ..oai. 

Bake  in  loaves  ; brush  them  over  with  syrup  while  hot,  and  eat  fresh. 

Soft  Ginger-hread. — One  and  a half  cups  Orleans  molasses,  half 
cup  each  brown  sugar,  butter  and  sweet  milk,  teaspoon  each  soda 


104 


GINGER-BREAD. 


and  allspice,  half  teaspoon  ginger ; mix  all  together  thoroughly,  add 
three  cups  sifted  flour  and  bake  in  shallow  pans.  Excellent. 

Spiced  Ginger-hread. — One  cup  each  sugar,  butter,  and  molasses, 
three  eggs,  three  cups  flour,  one  teaspoon  soda  dissolved  in  a cup 
sour  cream,  half  a nutmeg,  teaspoon  cloves,  tablespoon  ginger.  Ex- 
tra good. 

Sponge  Ginger-hread. — One  cup  each  sour  milk  and  Orleans  mo- 
lasses, a half  cup  butter,  two  eggs,  teaspoon  soda,  tablespoon  ginger, 
flour  to  make  as  thick  as  pound  cake ; put  butter,  molasses  and  gin- 
ger together,  make  them  quite  warm,  add  the  milk,  flour,  eggs,  and 
soda,  and  bake  as  soon  as  possible. 

. White  Ginger-bread. — Rub  a half  pound  each  butter  and  flour 
together,  add  half  pound  finely  powdered  and  sifted  loaf  sugar,  the 
finely  minced  rind  of  one  lemon,  an  ounce  ground  ginger,  and  a 
grated  nutmeg ; mix  well  together,  and  work  into  a smooth  paste 
with  one  gill  milk  just  warm,  in  which  a half  teaspoon  carbonate  of 
soda  has  been  dissolved ; make  into  cakes  and  bake  in  moderate 
oven  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes. 

Ginger  Cakes.  — One  quart  Orleans  molasses,  pint  lard 
or  butter,  pint  buttermilk,  two  tablespoons  each  soda  and  ginger, 
three  quarts  sifted  flour,  making  a stiff  batter ; pour  the  molasses 
and  milk  boiling  hot  into  a large  tin  bread-pan  in  which  have  been 
placed  the  ginger  and  soda  (the  pan  must  be  large  enough  to 
prevent  running  over)  ; stir  in  the  flour,  after  which  stir  in  the  lard 
or  butter ; when  cold,  (better  let  stand  overnight)  mold  with  flour 
and  cut  in  cakes,  either  with  biscuit  or  cookie  cutter.  Care  must 
be  taken  to  follow  these  directions  implicitly  or  the  cakes  will  not 
be  good ; remember  to  add  the  lard  or  butter  last,  and  buttermilk, 
not  sour  milk,  must  be  used ; boil  the  molasses  in  a skillet,  and  after 
pouring  it  into  the  pan,  put  the  buttermilk  in  the  same  skillet,  boil 
and  pour  it  over  the  molasses,  ginger  and  soda.  This  excellent 
recipe  was  kept  as  a secret  for  a long  time  by  a professional  baker. 

Ginger  Cookies. — Two  cups  molasses,  one  each  lard  and  su^ar, 
two-thirds  cup  sour  milk,  tablespoon  ginger,  three  teaspoons  soda 
stirred  in  the  flour  and  one  in  the  milk,  two  eggs. 

Ginger  Cookies. — One  egg,  one  cup  each  sugar  and  molasses, 
one  tablespoon  each  soda,  vinegar  and  ginger ; roll  thin  and  bake 
quickly. 

Best  Ginger  Drops. — Half  cup  sugar,  cup  molosses, 
half  cup  butter,  one  teaspoon  each  cinnamon,  ginger  and  mmm 
cloves,  two  teaspoons  soda  in  a cup  boiling  water,  two  and 
a half  cups  flour  ; add  two  well-beaten  eggs  the  last  thing 
beiore  baking.  Eaked  in  gem-tins  or  as  a common  ginger-  Drops, 
bread,  and  eaten  warm  with  a sauce,  they  make  a nice  dessert. 


GINGER-BREAD. 


105 


Ginger  Drop  Cakes. — Take  three  eggs,  one  cup  each  lard, 
baking  molasses  and  brown  sugar,  one  large  tablespoon  ginger,  one 
tablespoon  soda  dissolved  in  a cup  of  boiling  water,  five  cups  un- 
sifted flour ; drop  tablespoons  of  this  mixture  into  a slightly  greased 
dripping-pan  about  three  inches  apart. 

Ginger  Snaps. — Boil  together  one  cup  each  molasses,  butter 
and  sugar.  Add  two  teaspoons  each  soda  and  cinnamon,  one  each 
cloves  and  ginger,  flour  enough  to  roll  out  smoothly.  Koll  thin  and 
bake  quickly. 

Ginger  Snaps. — One  pound  and  six  ounces  flour,  four  of  sugar, 
eight  of  butter,  six  of  preserved  orange  peel,  half  pint  molasses,  one  tea- 
spoon soda  dissolved  in  two  tablespoons  boiling  water,  one  teaspoon 
cloves,  two  of  ginger ; soften  the  butter  and  mix  it  with  the  sugar  and 
molasses,  add  the  spices,  orange  peel  and  soda,  beat  well  and  stir  in 
the  flour,  flour  the  board  and  roll  the  paste  as  thin  as  possible,  cut 
in  circles  and  bake  in  a very  quick  oven.  This  quantity  makes  one 
hundred  and  twenty-nine  snaps,  about  three  inches  across. 

Hotel  Ginger  Snaps. — One  gallon  molasses,  two  pounds  brown 
sugar,  one  quart  melted  butter,  half  cup  each  ground  cloves,  mace, 
cinnamon  and  ginger,  one  cup  soda. 

Plain  Ginger  Snaps.— cups  molasses,  one  of  lard,  table- 
spoon each  soda  and  ginger,  and  flour  to  roll,  being  careful  not  to 
make  it  too  stiif.  Tablespoon  grated  orange  peel  is  a nice  addition. 
Cut  with  small  cutter.  Some  add  teaspoon  black  pepper. 

Ginger  Tea-cakes. — Mix  two  cups  each  powdered  sugar  and 
warmed  butter,  add  three  well-beaten  yolks,  a cup  molasses,  four 
heaping  cups  flour,  tablespoon  each  ginger  and  soda.  Bake  in  patty 
pans  in  a moderate  oven. 


106 


CREAMS  AND  CUSTARDS. 


t 


CREAMS  AND  CIJSTARES. 


For  creams  and  custards  eggs  should  never  be  beaten  in  tin,  but 
always  in  stone  or  earthen  ware,  as  there  is  some  chemical  influence 
about  tin  which  prevents  their  attaining  that  creamy  lightness  so 
desirable.  Beat  quickly  and  sharply  right  through  the  eggs,  beating 
whites  and  yolks  separately.  When  gelatine  is  used  for  creams  it  is 
better  to  soak  it  for  an  hour  or  two  in  a little  cold  water  or  milk,  set 
in  a warm  place;  (it  is  convenient  to  place  in  a howl  set  in  the  top 
of  the  boiling  tea-kettle  to  dissolve)  ; when  dissolved,  pour  into  the 
hot  custard  just  after  removing  from  the  stove.  For  custards  the 
common  rule  is  four  eggs,  one  cup  sugar,  one  salt-spoon  salt  to  each 
quart  milk.  Custards,  like  cakes,  are  nicer  if  yolks  and  whites  are 
beaten  separately  and  whites  added  last.  Bake  in  baking  dish,  or 
cup  set  in  pan  of  hot  water  until  firm  in  center,  taking  care  that  heat 
is  moderate  or  the  custard  will  turn  in  part  to  whey.  The  delicacy 
of  the  custard  depends  on  its  being  baked  slowly.  It  is  much  nicer 
to  strain  the  yolks,  after  they  are  beaten,  through  a small  wire  strain- 
er. For  boiled  custards  or  floats  the 
yolks  alone  may  be  used,  which  makes 
the  custard  much  finer,  or  for  economy’s 
sake  the  entire  eggs.  For  a more  ele- 
gant custard  whip  whites  of  eggs  and 
place  over  the  top  when  hot.  Always  place  milk  to  boil  in  a custard 
kettle  (made  of  iron  with  another  iron  kettle  inside,  the  latter  lined 


Wire  Strainer. 


CREAMS  AND  CUSTARDS. 


107 


with  tin),  or  in  a pan  or  pail  set  in  a kettle  of  boiling  water ; when 
the  milk  reaches  the  boiling  point,  which  is 
shown  by  a slight  foam  rising  on  top,  add 
the  sugar  which  cools  it  so  that  the  eggs 
will  not  curdle  when  added ; or,  another 
convenient  way  is  to  mix  the  beaten  and 
strained  yolks  with  the  sugar  in  a bowl,  then 
add  gradually  several  spoons  of  the  boiling 
milk,  until  the  eggs  and  sugar  are  heated 
through,  when  they  may  be  slowly  stirred  into  the  boiling  milk. 
Let  remain  a few  moments,  stirring  constantly  until  it  thickens  a 
little,  but  not  long  enough  to  curdle,  then  either  set  the  pail  imme- 
diately in  cold  water  or  turn  into  a cold  dish,  as  it  curdles 
if  allowed  to  remain  in  a hot  basin ; add  flavoring  extracts 
after  removing  from  the  stove.  Peach  leaves,  vanilla 
beans,  or  laurel  leaves  give  a fine  flavor,  but  must  be 
boiled  in  the  milk  and  taken  out  before  other  ingredients 
are  added.  The  only  spices  used  in  flavoring  custards 
are  nutmeg  and  cinnamon.  Lemon  is  liked  by  many  but 
the  w^hite  part  of  lemon  rind  is  exceedingly  bitter,  and 
the  outer  peel  only  should  be  used  for  grating.  A better  way 
is  to  rub  the  rind  off  with  hard  lumps  of  sugar.  The  sugar 
thus  saturated  with  the  oil  of  the  lemon  is  called  ‘^zest,”  and  is 
used,  pounded  fine,  for  creams,  etc.  Boiled  custards  are  very  diffi- 
cult to  make,  and  must  have  closest  attention  until  finished.  Cus- 
tards may  be  prepared  as  above,  mixing  the  milk,  eggs  and  sugar, 
and  then  placing  in  pan  to  steam  instead  of  boiling. 

In  making  Charlotte-russe  it  is  not  necessary  to  add  gelatints. 
The  filling  may  be  made  of  well-whipped  cream,  flavored  and  sweet- 
ened, using  a “whip-churn”  or  the  “Dover  Egg-beater ” to  do  the 
whipping.  When  other  ingredients  are  to  be  combined  with  the 
wLipped  cream  for  filling,  leave  the  cream  on  ice  until  all  are  ready, 
then  turn  cream  into  the  mixture,  whip  through  gently,  let  stand  a 
few  minutes  and  whip  again,  keeping  it  on  ice  till  it 
seems  to  be  thickening,  when  it  should  be  turned 
into  a plain  mold  previously  lined  with  cake,  which 
should  also  be  kept  on  ice  until  ready  to  serve.  Any  deep  pan  will 
do,  which  should  not  be  wet  or  greased  but  lined  with  clean  manilla 
paper.  If  sponge  cake  is  used  cut  in  sheets  to  fit  bottom  and  sides 


108 


CREAMS  AND  CUSTARDS. 


Pastry  Brush. 


smoothly.  When  lady-fingers  are  used  the  ingenuity  of  the  cook 
may  be  brought  into  play  in  their  arrangement,  placing  them  diago- 
nally around  the  sides,  forming  a star  or  rosette  in  the  bottom,  cut- 
ting into  desired  shapes  to  carry  out  any  design. 

A large  charlotte-russe  could  easily  be  given  the  form  of  a fort 
by  molding  in  deep  conical  shaped  pan,  leaving  holes  at  intervals 
in  the  sides  of  the  cake  lining,  and  after  turning  out  inserting  there- 
in lady-fingers  to  represent  cannon,  ornamenting  top  with  darts  or 
arrows  of  isinglass  with  hits  of  jelly  on  the  points.  A full  slice  of 
]3ine-apple  divided  into  eighths  and  the  rind  turned  in  the  center, 
leaving  the  points  to  turn  out  in  the  form  of  a star,  filling  the  center 
with  whipped  cream,  makes  a handsome  finish  for  the  top  of  char- 
Jotte-russe  or  a pine-apple  cake.  Icing  the  sides  is  also  an  improve- 
ment; in  short,  ornament  in  any  manner  as  fancy  may  dictate,  with 
candied  fruits,  nuts,  etc.,  which  may  be  made  to  adhere  to  the  cake 
by  first  dipping  in  syrup  (sugar  boiled  to  crackling).  To  make  the 
cake  lining  retain  its  place  firmly,  brush  edges 
wherever  cake  or  lady-fingers  join  with  a very 
little  of  this  hot  syrup  or  with  the  white  of  an  egg,  or  a little 
gum  arabic  dissolved  in  water,  putting  on  so  little  that  none 
adheres  to  the  mold.  The  whole  interior  is  sometimes  brushed 
over  with  white  of  egg  to  make  the  cake  firmer.  If  any  sheet  of 
cake  is  left,  put  upside  down  on  board  and  spread  over  it  a wet 
towel  and  it  will  keep  -perfectly.  If  eggs  are  used  in  the 
cream  whip  them  first.  If  preferred,  the  charlotte-russe  may 
be  made  into  small  molds,  one  for  each  person.  Great  care 
must  be  used  in  turning  out,  or  the  cream  may  burst  the  cake. 
Holding  the  mold  in  the  left  hand,  place  the  plate  or  dish  on  which 
it  is  to  be  served  over  it  with  the  right  hand, 
and  slowly  and  gently  invert  it.  If  desired, 
a piece  of  the  cake  may  be  shaped  for  a 
cover  to  the  mold,  which  when  served  be- 
comes the  foundation.  A much  simpler 
and  very  nice  way  of  preparing  a case  for 
charlotte-russe,  is  to  bake  a sponge  cake  in 
a fancy  mold  and  when  cold  turn  out  and 
with  a sharp  knife  carefully  cut  off  the  top, 
laying  it  to  one  side  for  the  cover ; replace 
cake  in  mold  and  remove  the  hiside 


Charlotte  Eusse. 


carefully,  leaving 


CREAMS  AND  CUSTARDS. 


109 


the  cake  at  least  an  inch  thick  and  as  smooth  as  possible ; then 
fill  with  the  prepared  cream,  put  on  the  cover  and  serve 
inverted,  as  above  on  plate ; or  simply  scoop  out  the  inside 
and  after  filling  and  turning  from  the  mold  tnrn  it  on  another 
plate,  leaving  the  cake  right  side  np,  and  heap  whipped  cream 
upon  the  open  top  as  illustrated. 

Cream  intended  for  whipping  should  first  be  chilled  on  ice,  and 
may  be  sweetened  or  flavored  to  taste  either  before  or  after  whip- 
ping. Have  a deep  tin  pan  half  filled  with  snow  or  pounded  ice,  and 
into  this  set  another  pan  that  will  hold  two  or  three  times  the  quan- 
tity of  cream  before  it  is  whipped ; place  the  cream  in  a bowl,  set  on 
ice,  and  with  a whip  churn  (or  an  egg  beater  if  you  have  not  a 
(hum)  whip  to  a froth,  and  when  the  bowl  is  full  let  stand  a moment 
i.ntil  the  air  bubbles  break,  then  skim  the  froth  into  the  pan  standing 
on  the  ice,  and  repeat  this  until  the  cream  is  all  froth ; then  with  the 
spoon  draw  the  froth  to  one  side,  and  it  will  be  found  that  some  of 
the  cream  has  gone  back  to  milk  ; turn  this  into  the  bowl  again  and 
v^hip  as  before ; or  use  a sieve  as  the  receptacle  for  the  whipped 
cream,  placing  it  over  a bowl  to  catch  the  drippings,  which  are  re- 
v/hipped. The  whip  churn  shown  in  the  cut  can  be  procured  of 
almost  any  dealer  or  may  be  ordered  from  the  tinner.  It  is  operated 
by  placing  the  handle  inside  the  tube  and  inserting 
the  perforated  end  of  the  tube  ( slightly  tipped)  into 
the  bowl  of  cream.  By  drawing  up  the  handle  and 
forcing  it  down  again  the  cream  is  forced  in  and 
out  of  the  holes  in  the  tube  and  soon  becomes  a 
light  froth,  which  is  taken  off  as  directed  above.  In  cold  weather  it 
is  not  considered  necessary  by  some  to  thus  skim  the  froth,  simply 
whipping  rapidly  until  the  v/hole  stiffens  Be  careful  not  to  whip 
too  long  or  particles  of  butter  will  form.  When  cream  is  difficult 
to  whip,  add  to  and  whip  with  it  the  white  of  an  egg.  After  the 
cream  is  whipped,  work  the  froth  with  an  egg  whisk  which  makes  it 
finer  grained.  If  perfectly  sweet  use  double  cream  for  whipping.  If 
too  thick  a little  milk  may  be  added. 

Single  cream  is  cream  that  has  stood  on  the  milk  twelve  hours, 
and  is  best  for  tea  or  coffee ; double  cream  has  stood  twenty-four 
hours,  and  cream  for  butter  often  stands  forty-eight  hours.  In  put- 
ting together  ingredients  for  custards  always  rinse  out  the  bowl  in 


110 


CREAMS  AXD  CUSTARDS. 


which  yolks  were  beaten  with  a part  of  the  milk  used,  so  that  none 
of  the  yolks  Avill  he  wasted.  When  creams  or  custards  through  lack 
of  proper  attention  have  been  cooked  too  long  and  become  curdled, 
beating  thoroughly  with  an  egg  beater  will  remove  the  unpleasant 
effect.  The  measurement  of  cream  in  the  following  recipes  is  given 
before  it  is  whipped.  The  Bavarian  cream  recipes  will  make  three 
or  four  times  the  quantity  of  unwhipped  cream  called  for,  and  are 
therefore  comparatively  inexpensive  for  so  elegant  a dessert.  Molds 
should  always  be  wet  in  cold  water  for  creams,  russes,  blanc-manges, 
etc.,  that  are  placed  in  them  to  stand  until  cold.  If  they  do  not  turn 

out  easily,  dip  for  an 
instant  into  warm  water. 
Before  turning  into 
molds  some  prefer  tc 
strain  all  blanc-mangeSj 
Custard  ,®-"rainer.  and  cool  six  hours  before 

serving,  or  are  even  better  made  the  day  before  wanted.  Should 
custards  cook  up  lumpy  they  should  be  strained,  and  many  strain 
them  before  cooking,  after  putting  all  ingredients  together. 

Gelatine  is  usually  put  up  in  two-ounce  packages,  so  that  where 
recipes  call  for  half  package,  one  ounce  should  be  used.  In  choos- 
ing gelatine  or  isinglass  select  that  which  is  whitest,  has  no  un- 
pleasant odor,  and  which  dissolves  most  readily  in  water.  To  test 
its  purity  drop  a few  threads  of  the  substance  into  boiling  water, 
some  into  cold  water,  and  some  into  vinegar.  In  the  first  it  vdil] 
dissolve,  in  the  second  become  white  and  cloudy,  and  in  vinegar  it 
will  swell  and  become  jelly-like.  But  if  adulterated  it  will  not  sci 
completely  dissolve  in  hot  water,  in  cold  water  it  will  become  jelly- 
like,  and  in  vinegar  will  harden.  In  preparing 
small  fruits  with  seeds  for 
creams,  etc.,  mash  through  a 
-fine  woven-wire  sieve,  called  a 
puree  sieve — the  ordinary  flour 
sieve  being  too  coarse.  A very 
useful  kitchen  utensil  is  the  little  steamer  de- 
signed to  set  over  top  of  teakettle,  in  which  creams  and  custards 
that  need  to  be  cooked  over  hot  water  may  be  very  easily  prepared, 
saving  space  of  one  utensil. 

Macaroon  Basket — A pretty  and  unique  way  of  serving  maca- 


CREAMS  AND  CUSTARDS. 


Ill 


/.X 


roons  with  cream  is  as  follows  : Dissolve  a tablespoon  gum  arabic 
in  half  cup  hailing  water  thoroughly ; then 
stir  in  one  large  cup  white  sugar.  Boil 
gently  until  very  thick.  Set  it  while  using 
in  a pan  of  boiling  water  to  keep  hot. 

Take  a round  tin  pail,  butter  thickly  on 
bottom  and  sides,  dip  the  edges  only  of 
each  macaroon  in  the  hot  candy  and  lay 
them  in  close  rows  on  the  bottom  until 
it  is  covered.  Let  them  get  perfectly  dry, 
and  be  sure  they  adhere  firmly  to  one  an- 
other before  beginning  the  lower  row  of 
the  sides.  Build  up  the  wall  one  row  at  a 
time,  letting  each  harden  before  adding 
another.  When  the  basket  is  done  and  firm,  lift  carefully  from  the 
mold,  make  a loop-handle  at  each  end  with  four  or  five  macaroons 
stuck  together,  set  on  a flat  dish  and  heap  with  whipped  cream. 
Sprinkle  comfits  over  cream  or  ornament  with  bits  of  red  jelly.  Lady- 
fingers,  brushing  edges  with  white  of  egg,  may  be  thus  utilized. 
Another  pretty  dish  is  made  by  slicing  oranges  nicely,  and  placing 
on  skewers  dip  them  into  the  hot  candy,  and  line  bottom  and  sides 
of  pail  or  mold  (which  must  first  be  buttered)  in  same  way.  Leave 
until  hard  and  cemented  together,  fill  with  whipped  cream  and  you 
have  an  Orange  Basket. 


Macaroon  Basket. 


Orange  Baskets. — Remove  the  fruit  from  the  interior  of  oranges 
carefully  by  making  a small  incision  on  one  side  of  the  fruit,  then 
cut  the  skin  into  the  shape  of  a basket,  leaving  about  half  an  inch 
of  the  stalk  ends  for  handles.  Fill  the  baskets  with  any  cream, 
ices,  ice  cream,  whipped  cream,  jellies,  etc.,  and  they  make  a very 
pretty  ornament  for  the  table.  The  juice  and  pulp  removed  can  be 
made  into  jelly  or  custard,  or  sent  to  table  sweetened  with  sugar. 


Blanc- Mange. — Dissolve  three  heaping  tablespoons  each  corn 
starch  and  sugar  in  one  pint  milk  ; add  to  this  three  eggs  well  beaten, 
and  pour  the  mixture  into  one  pint  boiling  milk,  stirring  constantly 
until  it  boils  again ; after  taking  from  the  stove  flavor  to  taste  and 
pour  into  cups  or  small  moulds ; when  cool  take 
out  and  place  on  dish  as  illustrated,  or  with  a 
mold  of  jelly  in  center.  Serve  a spoon  of  jelly 
and  a sauce  of  sv;eetened  cream  with  each  mold, 
or  omit  jelly  entirely  and  serve  with  sweetened  cream  or  whipped 
cream  ; or,  put  one  quart  milk  (reserving  three  tablespoons  with  which 
mix  three  heaping  tablespoons  corn-starch)  with  a pinch  salt  and 
five  tablespoons  sugar.  When  milk  is  hot,  pour  in  the  mixed  corn- 
starch, and  stir  until  it  is  a thick  batter ; pour  this  on  the  well-beaten 
whites  of  four  eggs,  add  two  teaspoons  vanilla,  pour  into  mold  wet 
in  cold  water,  and  set  on  ice ; when  cold  turn  from  the  mold  and 


112 


CREAMS  AND  CUSTARDS. 


serve  in  a custard  made  as  follows  : Put  one  pint  milk  in  a basin 
over  boiling  water,  mix  in  a tea-cup  two  even  teaspoons  cprn-starcli 
in  two  of  cold  milk,  beat  in  the  four  yolks  of  eggs,  and  two  and  a 
half  tablespoons  sugar.  When  the  milk  is  hot  pour  part  of  it  into 
the  cup  and  stir  well,  pour  it  back  into  the  basin  and  stir  until  as 
thick  as  desired  ; put  on  ice  until  chilled  thoroughly.  Blanc-mange 
may  be  colored  brown  with  chocolate,  green  with  spinach  juice,  or 
pink  with  the  juice  of  strawberry,  currant  or  cranberry,  or  a hand- 
some yellow  with  saffron  or  the  grated  peel  of  an  orange  or  lemon, 
moistened  with  the  juice  and  strained  through  a cloth.  An  easy 
and  ornamental  dish  can  then  be  made  by  putting  into  the  bottom 
of  the  mold  a layer  of  the  white  blanc-mange, 
smoothing  it  nicely,  then  a layer  of  the  colored, 
and  finish  with  the  white,  or  vice  versa.  Very 
pretty  half-pint  molds  may  be  made  as  follows  : 

Tilt  mold  in  a pan  of  snow  or  pounded  ice,  color  one-fourth  the 
blanc-mange  pink,  another  fourth  green ; wet  the  molds  and  pour 
into  them  a little  of  the  colored  blanc-mange,  putting  only  one  color 
into  each  mold,  and  filling  it  so  that  when  tilted  the  blanc-mange 
reaches  nearly  to  the  top  and  covers  about  two-thirds  of  the  bot- 
tom ; when  cold  set  mold  level  and  fill  with  the  white  blanc-mange, 
which  has  meantime  been  kept  in  so  warm  a place  as  not  to  hard- 
en. If  the  molds  are  made  to  imitate  roses  or  fruit,  the  fruit  may 
be  green,  and  roses  pink ; if  corn,  yellow ; and  various  ways  of  com- 
bining colors  and  forms  will  suggest  themselves  to  the  ingenious 
housewife. 

Chocolate  Blanc-Mange. — Half  box  gelatine,  soaked  till  dis- 
solved in  as  much  cold  water  as  will  cover  it,  four  ounces  sweet 
chocolate  grated,  one  quart  sweet  milk,  one  cup  sugar ; boil  milk, 
sugar  and  chocolate  five  minutes,  add  gelatine  and  boil  five  minutes 
more,  stirring  constantly ; or  to  the  grated  chocolate  add  half  the 
sugar,  place  in  sauce  pan  with  two  table- 
spoons boiling  water,  stir  over  a hot  fire  a 
minute  or  two,  add  to  milk  in  custard  ket- 
tle with  the  rest  of  sugar,  strain,  flavor 
with  vanilla,  put  in  molds  to  cool,  and  eat 
with  cream.  If  wanted  for  tea,  make  in 
the  morning ; if  for  dinner,  the  night  before. 

For  a plain  blanc-mange  omit  the  choco-  Pudding  mow. 

late.  To  serve  very  handsomely  with 
cream  set  to  form  in  a mold  with  cylinder 
in  center  (any  pudding  or  cake  mold  will 
do).  One  may  be  improvised  by  stitching 
together  a roll  of  stiff  paper  just  the  height 
of  mold,  butter  it  well  and  hold  in  center  of  mold  while  filling,  put- 
ting a light  weight  on  it  to  keep  in  place ; or,  better  still,  use  a bottle 
filled  with  shot  or  damp  salt.  When  blanc-mange  is  turned  out  slip 


CREAMS  AND  CUSTARDS. 


ns 


out  this  cylinder,  fill  the  cavity  Avith  whipped  cream,  raising  it  to  " 
pyramidal  form,  and  heap  same  about  the  base ; or,  form  in  melon 
mold  and  serve  AAuth  whipped  cream  around  it. 

Farina  Blanc-Marige. — Set  a quart  neAV  milk  over  boiling 
Avater,  reserving  a feAv  spoonfuls  in  which  mix  three  ounces  farina ; 
AA^hen  the  milk  films  add  one-third  cup  sugar,  the  farina  and  a quar- 
ter teaspoon  salt,  and  stir  until  cooked  to  thick  batter ; pour  into 
Avet  mold,  let  stand  three  hours,  and  eat  with  sugar  and  cream,  or 
any  custard  or  sauce  preferred. 

Raspberry  Blanc-Mange. — Stew  nice  fresh  raspberries,  strain 
off  the  juice  and  SAveeten  to  taste ; place  over  the  fire  and  when  it 
boils  stir  in  corn  starch  Avet  in  cold  water,  allowing  tAvo  table- 
spoons corn  starch  for  each  pint  juice;  continue  stirring  until 
sufficiently  cooked,  pour  into  molds  Avet  in  cold  Avater  and  set 
away  to  cool ; eat  with  cream  and  sugar ; other  fruit  can  be  used 
instead  of  raspberries. 

Rice  Blanc-Mange.  — Five  ounces  rice  flour  and  one  quart 
milk ; mix  flour  with  a little  cold  milk  and  stir  till  smooth,  then  add 
and  stir  in  six  ounces  fine  sugar,  a teaspoon  grated  yellow  rind  of  a 
lemon,  or  tAvo  teaspoons  pure  vanilla  extract,  or  a drop  or  two  essence 
of  almonds  ; then  add  the  rest  of  the  milk,  stir  all  well  together,  place 
on  the  fire  and  boil  and  stir  constantly  until  it  thickens,  then  imme- 
diately pour  into  mold ; let  it  remain  till  perfectly  stiff  and  cold ; 
eat  with  sugar  and  cream  or  any  sauce  preferred. 

Sago  Blanc-Mange. — Boil  a half  pint  pearl  sago  in  one  quart 
milk,  or  half  milk  and  half  water,  until  perfectly  soft ; stir  in  two 
well-beaten  eggs  and  pour  into  mold  wet  Avith  cold  water.  Serve 
with  the  SAveetened  cream,  or  it  may  be  eaten  warm  if  preferred  Avitli 
“ Fairy  Butter.” 

Vanilla  Blanc-Mange. — One  ounce  gelatine  soaked  in  one^ 
quart  milk  one  hour ; set  over  fire,  add  yolks  of  three  eggs  beaten  with 
one  cup  sugar,  beat  to  boiling,  flavor  with  vanilla  and  turn  into 
mold.  Eat  Avith  SAveetened  cream. 

Apple  Charlotte. — Soak  one-third  box  gelatine  an  hour  in  third 
cup  cold  water,  pour  half  cup  boiling  water  over  it,  stir  until  thor- 
oughly dissoh^ed  and  pour  upon  a scant  pint  of  tart  apples  steamed 
and  rubbed  through  a puree  sieA^e,  add  one  cup  sugar  and  juice  of 
one  large  lemon ; place  in  a basin  of  pounded  ice  and  beat  until  it 
begins  to  thicken  add  Avell-frothed  Avhites  of  three  eggs,  pour  into 
tAvo-quart  mold  that  has  been  lined  Avith  sponge  cake  and  set  on  ice 
to  harden ; make  a custard  of  the  yolks,  one  pint  milk  and  three  ta- 
blespoons sugar,  and  Avhen  the  charlotte  is  turned  out  on  a dish 
pour  this  around  it. 


8 


114 


CREAMS  AND  CUSTARDS. 


Large  Mold. 


Strawberry  Charlotte. — Dissolve  half  an  ounce  gelatine  in  a 
pint  warm  water,  strain  and  when  nearly  set  dip  fresh  strawberries 
into  it  and  line  bottom  and  sides  of  a plain  round  mould  packed  in 
ice ; fill  v/ith  cream  made  after  any  cream  or  russe  recipe  preferred. 
Raspberries,  blackberries  and  cherries  may  be  used  for  same  pur- 
pose. Serve  when  cold  with  whipped  cream  poured  round  it,  dip- 
ping mold  in  'warm  water  before  turning  out.  A most  beautiful  and 
delicious  dish. 

Charlotte- Riisse. — Split  two  dozen  lady-fingers  (slices  of 
sponge  or  other  cake  may  be  used),  lay  them  in  a mold,  put  one- 
third  l)ox  gelatine  into  half  pint  milk,  place  it  where  it  will  be  w'arm 
enough  to  dissolve.  Whip  three  pints  cream  to  a froth  and  keep 
cool ; beat  yolks  of  three  eggs  and  mix  with  half  pound  powdered 
sugar,  then  beat  whites  very  stiff  and  add  to  it,  strain  the  gelatine 
upon  these,  stirring  quickly  ; then  add  the  cream,  fla  vor  with  vanilla 
or  lemon,  pour  over  the  cake,  let  stand  upon  ice  two  hours.  Serve 
with  Mdiipned  cream.  Some  add  a layer  of  jelly  at  bottom  of  mold. 

Charlotte- Ru^se. — One  ounce  gelatine  dissolved  in  two  gills 
boiling  milk,  Avell-frothed  wdiites  of  four  eggs, 
one  and  a half  cups  white  powdered  sugar,  one 
pint  thick  cream  whipped  to  froth,  and  rose- 
water or  vanilla  for  flavoring ; line  a large  mold 
with  thick  slices  sponge  cake,  mix  the  gelatine, 
sugar,  cream  and  flavoring  together,  add  lightly  the  frothed  whites, 
pour  into  mold,  set  away  on  ice  till  required  for  use.  This  is  an 
easy  and  excellent  mode  of  making  this  most  delicate  dessert. 

Charlotte- Russe. — Cut  stale  sponge  cake  into  slices  about  half 
an  inch  thick  and  line  three  molds  with  them,  leaving  a space  of  half 
an  inch  between  each  slice ; set  molds  where  they  wfill  not  be  dis- 
turbed until  filling  is  ready  ; whip  one  and  one-half  pints  cream  to 
stifl'  froth,  stir  into  it  two-thirds  cup  powdered  sugar,  one  teaspoon 
vanilla,  and  half  a box  gelatine  soaked  in  cold  water  enough  to 
cover  it  for  one  hour,  and  then  dissolved  in  boiling  Avater  enough  to 
dissoh^e  it  (about  half  a cup) ; stir  from  the  bottom  of  the  pan  until 
it  begins  to  grow  stiff,  fill  the  molds  and  set  on  ice  one  hour,  or 
until  they  are  sent  to  table.  When  ready  to  serve  loosen  lightly  at 
the  sides  and  turn  out  on  a flat  dish. 

Charlotte- Russe. — Make  a sponge  cake  and  bake  in  a sheet,  or 
better,  buy  a sheet  at  bakery,  Avet  bottom 
of  paper  Avith  cold  Avater  and  takeoff  care- 
fully, or  if  cake  has  accidentally  been 
baked  too  hard,  let  stand  after  dampening 
:;Tor  fifteen  minutes  before  taking  off  paper. 
Line  an  unbuttered  mold  by  trimming  off 
edges  of  cake  and  just  cutting  a piece  to 

Charlotte-Russe.  fit  the  bottom,  then  the  sides,  putting 

light  colored  side  of  cake  next  to  mold  and  fill  Avith  the  folloAving 


OREAMS  AND  CUSTARDS. 


115 


prepared  Avhipped  cream  : One  pint  thick  sweet  cream,  four  heaping 
tablespoons  sugar  and  .teaspoon  flavoring,  third  each  of  lemon,  va- 
nilla and  almond,  or  all  of  one  kind ; place  dish  in  a pan  of  ice  and 
whip  with  egg  heater  or  whip  churn.  After  filling  mold  place  in 
bed  of  ice  till  wanted,  turn  out  on  platter  and  serve. 

Almond  Bavarian  Cream. — Whip  one  and  one-half  pints  cream 
until  only  a half  pint  is  left  unwhipped,  which  put  into  a double 
boiler  with  a pint  blanched  sweet  almonds  pounded  to  paste,  and  add 
three  eggs  and  a small  cup  sugar,  first  thoroughly  beaten  together ; 
cook  until  it  begins  to  thicken,  then  stir  in  one  ounce  gelatine 
soaked  two  hours  in  half  cup  milk  ; remove  from  fire,  strain  and  add 
one-fourth  teaspoon  essence  of  almond ; bea,t  until  it  thickens  and 
stir  in  the  whipped  cream,  pour  into  molds,  set  away  until  cold,  and 
serve  with  whipped  cream.  Use  one  pint  pistachio  nuts  instead  of 
almonds,  omitting  essence  of  almond,  and  you  have  Pistachio 
Bavarian  Cream. 

Chocolate  Bavarian  Cream. — Scrape  one  ounce  Baker’s  choc- 
olate, add  two  tablespoons  sugar,  put  over  a hot  fire  with  one  table- 
spoon hot  water  and  stir  until  smooth  and  glossy.  Have  a half  cup 

milk  boiling,  stir  the  chocolate  into  it 
and  add  one  ounce  gelatine  soaked  two 
hours  in  a half  cup  milk.  Strain  into 
tin  basin,  add  two  tablespoons  sugar, 
place  in  ice  water  and  stir  until  it 
begins  to  thicken  ; add  a pint  cream 
whipped  to  a stiff  froth,  mixing  well, 
and  turn  into  mold  to  harden.  Serve 
with  whipped  cream.  The  crown  molds 
are  best  for  Bavarian  cream,  as  the  opening  in  the  center  may  be 
filled  with  the  whipped  cream  served  with  it. 

Orange  Bavarian  Cream. — Whip  one  and  one-half  pints  cream, 
and  skim  off  until  less  than  a half  pint  remains  unwhipped : put 
this  in  a double  boiler,  add  beaten  yolks  six  eggs,  stir  until  it 
begins  to  thicken,  and  add  one  ounce  gelatine  that  has  been  soaked 
two  hours  in  a half  cup  cold  water,  also  grated  rind  of  two  oranges 
When  gelatine  is  dissolved  take  off  and  set  in  pan  of  powdered  ice  > 
stir  till  it  begins  to  cool  and  add  juice  five  oranges  strained  over  one 
large  cup  sugar.  Beat  until  it  thickens  like  custard,  add  whipped 
cream,  stiruntil  thoroughly  mixed,  and  pour  into  molds.  The  oranges 
rnyy  be  omitted,  and  flavored  with  vanilla  the  above  makes  a delicious 
Yomilla  Cream.  Serve  when  cold  heaped  around  with  whipped 
cream.  Make  Lenton  Cream  in  same  manner,  using  juice  four 
lemons,  or,  leave  out  the  cream,  taking  instead  a scant  pint  cold 
water  mixed  with  the  well-beaten  yolks  five  eggs,  stirred  in  with  the 
sugar  and  juice,  adding  the  whipped  whites  last  instead  of  the 
cream,  and  you  will  have  Orange  or  Lemon  Sponge^  as  you  prefer. 


116 


CREAMS  AND  CUSTARDS. 


Pine-apple  Cream. 


Pine-a2'>ple  Bavarian  Cream, — Chop  one  pint  canned  pine- 
apple, and  simmer  over  fire  with  small  cup  sugar  twenty  minutes  and 
add  one  ounce  gelatine  previously  soaked  two  hours  in  half  cup 
cold  water,  strain  through  a sieve  into  bright  tin 
basin,  rubbing  through  as  much  of  the  pine-apple 
as  possible.  Beat  until  it  begins  to  thicken,  then 
stir  in  one  pint  cream,  whipped,  pour  into  mold 
and  serve  cold,  with  whipped  cream  around. 

Decorate  with  tuft  of  pine-apple  leaves,  or  if  want- 
ed more  elaborate  use  pine-apple  decoration  described  in  charlotte- 
russe.  Coffee  Bavarian  Cream  is  made  the  same,  Avith  one  cup 
strong,  boiling  hot  coffee  instead  of  the  cooked  pine-apple ; or,  take 
Avhites  four  eggs  and  a cup  cold  water,  leaAung  out  Avhipped  cream, 
mixing  the  Avater  Avith  the  sugar  and  fruit  before  cooking,  and  add- 
ing the  frothed  AAdrites  of  eggs  instead  of  cream,  and  you  will  have 
a,  delicious  Pine-a2yple  Sponge. 

Straioherry  Bavarian  Cream. — Soak  one  ounce  gelatine  tAvo 
hours  in  half  cup  cold  Avater,  mash  one  quart  strawberries 
Vidth  large  cup  sugar  and  let  stand  one  hour;  AA^hip  one  pint 
cream  to  froth,  strain  mashed  berries  through  cloth  into  bright 
tin  basin,  pour  half  cup  boiling  AA^ater  oA^er  the  soaked  gelatine, 
and  Avhen  dissoh^ed  strain  it  into  the  straAvberry  juice.  Set 
basin  in  pan  of  pounded  ice  and  beat  the  mixture  until  it 
begins  to  thicken  ; AAdien  like  soft  custard  stir  in  and  mix 
thoroughly  the  whipped  cream,  turn  into  a tAvo-quart  mold,  or 
two  or  more  smaller  ones,  and  set  aAvay  to  cool  and  harden.  SerA^e 
ftold  with  whipped  cream.  Raspberry  and  Blachherry  Ba- 
varian Creams  are  made  in  exactly  same  manner,  as  are  also 
Peachy  Apricot,  and  Pear  Creams^  first  putting  these  fruits 
(which  may  be  either  canned,  partially  cooked,  or  fresh)  through  a 
puree  sieve,  and  then  cooking  gently  Avith  the  sugar  twenty  minutes, 
stirring  often ; leave  out  the  hot  Abater  and  stir  the 
soaked  gelatine  into  the  hot  fruit,  Avhich  must 
-C/Ai  before  beating  and  adding  Avhipped  cream. 

Pieces  of  fresh  fruit  may  be  served  around  it. 
Or,  for  Sponges  with  any  of  the  above  fruits  use  a cup  Avater  and 
whites  of  four  eggs  instead  of  pint  cream,  boiling  half  the  sugar  and 
Avater  together  tAventy  minutes,  then  adding  the  gelatine,  then  the 
berries  or  fruit  prepared  as  above,  and  stirring  in  the  whipped  whites 
of  eggs  Avhen  the  mixture  is  partially  cold  and  begins  to  thicken. 
Mold  and  serve  same  as  creams. 


Peach  Cream. 


Italian  Cream. — Soak  one-third  box  gelatine  half  an  hour  in 
cold  milk,  put  a quart  milk  in  custard  kettle  and  AAdien  boiling  stir 
in  well-beaten  yolks  of  eight  eggs,  add  one  and  a half  cups  sugar 
and  the  gelatine ; Avhen  the  custard  begins  to  thicken  take  it  off 
and  pour  into  a deep  dish  in  Avhich  the  eight  AAdiites  haA^e  been  beaten 
to  a stiff  froth  ; beat  thoroughly  togetlier  and  flavor  to  taste  ; put  in 


CREAMS  AND  CUSTARDS. 


117 


molds,  and  allow  four  hours  to  cool.  This  cream  is  much  more 
easily  made  in  winter  than  in  summer. 

Chocolate  Cream. — Scald  one  quart  milk  and  stir  into  it  half 
package  gelatine,  previously  dissolved  in  one  cup  milk,  and  add 
cup  powdered  sugar.  Heat  up  once  and  when  gelatine  is  quite  dis- 
solved strain.  Wet  four  tablespoons  chocolate  with  cold  water  and 
add  to  the  mixture,  which  must  again  he  heated 
smoking  hot,  then  add  gradually  beaten  yolks  two 
eggs,  and  boil  for  five  minutes,  not  longer,  as  the 
eggs  may  curdle.  Turn  into  a large  shallow  dish 
or  pan  to  cool,  and  when  it  begins  to  coagulate  chocolate  cream, 
whip  in  gradually  and  thoroughly  beaten  whites  two  eggs.  Lastly 
add  pint  cream,  whipped,  pour  into  wet  mold,  let  stand  until  per- 
fectly cold  and  serve  with  sweetened  cream.  By  taking  half  the 
chocolate  and  coloring  only  half  the  cream,  using  a buttered  paste- 
Ijoard  to  separate  the  two  in  the  mold,  the  effect  is  quite  pleasing. 

Raspberry  Cream. — One  quart  good  cream,  one  pint  fresh 
raspberries ; mash  and  rub  fruit  through  a fine  sieve  or  strainer  to 
extract  the  seeds,  bring  the  cream  to  a boil  (having  reserved  one 
pint  for  froth),  and  add  it  to  the  berries  while  it  remains  hot, 
Bveeten  with  powdered  sugar  to  taste,  let  it  become  cold.  Now 
riise  cream,  which  has  been  reserved,  to  a froth  with  a beater,  take 
off  the  froth  and  lay  it  on  a sieve  to  drain ; fill  dish,  or  glasses  as  in 
almond  custard,  with  the  cream  and  place  froth  on  top.  Very  nice. 
Any  kind  of  berries,  jam  or  jelly  is  good,  and  can  be  used  without 
straining. 

Roch  Cream. — Boil  one  cup  rice  in  a custard-kettle  in  sweet 
milk  until  soft,  add  two  tablespoons  loaf  sugar,  a salt-spoon  salt ; 
pour  into  a dish  and  place  on  it  lumps  of  jelly ; beat  whites  of  five 
eggs  and  three  tablespoons  pulveri'zed  sugar  to  stiff  froth,  flavor  to 
taste,  add  one  tablespoon  rich  cream,  and  drop  the  mixture  on  the 
rice,  giving  it  the  form  of  a rough  snowy  rock ; or,  flavor  the  rice 
with  essence  almonds,  or  any  other  preferred,  put  into  cups  and 
let  stand  till  cold ; then  turn  out  in  a deep  glass  dish  and  pour 
round  them  a soft  custard  made  after  any  good  recipe,  placing  on 
top  of  each  ball  a bit  of  bright  colored  jelly.  Flavoring  must  be 
same  in  rice  and  custard. 

Ruby  CreOjm. — Soak  half  pint  tapioca  over  night  in  half  pint 
W’ater ; simmer  over  slow  fire  in  a pint  cold  water  until  clear,  the 
soaked  tapioca  and  a lemon  rind  cut  in  pieces ; skim  out  lemon 
paring  and  stir  in  four  ounces  sugar,  half  pint  currant  jelly,  juice 
one  lemon,  two  teaspoons  scokeberry  syrup ; let  simmer  a few  min- 
utes and  pour  into  one  large  or  tw'o  small  glass  dishes,  and  Avhen 
perfectly  cold  (just  before  serving)  cover  it  with  either  of  these 
snows : Whipped  whites  four  eggs  with  three  ounces  powdered 


118 


CREAMS  AND  CUSTARDS. 


sugar  added  gradually,  flavored  with  a little  lemon,  or  one  pint 
cream  whipped  with  two  and  one-half  ounces  sugar.  Very  ornamen- 
tal, and  called  also  Ruhy  under  the  snow^ 

Tapioca  Cream. — Soak  over  night  two  tablespoons  tapioca  in 
one-half  cup  milk  (or  enough  to  cover);  bring  one  quart  milk  to 
boiling  point ; beat  well  together  yolks  of  three  eggs,  half  cup  sugar 
and  one  teaspoon  lemon  or  vanilla  for  flavoring ; add  the  tapioca, 
and  stir  the  whole  into  the  boiling  milk,  let  boil  once,  turn  into  the 
dish,  and  immediately  spread  on  the  whites.  Serve  when  cold. 

Tea  Cream. — Dissolve  one-half  package  gelatine  in  one  cup 
milk,  add  one  cup  white  sugar,  and  pour  over  it  one  large  cup  strong 
tea,  boiling  hot,  strain  through  flne  muslin  and  let  cool ; whip  pint 
of  rich  cream  and  also  two  eggs ; when  the  gelatine  is  perfectly 
cold  beat  in  the  whites  until  it  is  a firm  froth,  then  whip  in  the  cream  ; 
set  away  in  a wet  mold  for  eight  or  ten  hours,  and  serve  cold  with 
sweetened  cream.  Coifee  Cream  is  made  in  same  manner,  substi- 
tuting cup  strong  black  colfee  for  the  tea.  Both  made  at  a time, 
molded  in  cups  or  individual  molds,  and  turned  out  in  alternate 
rows  upon  a plate,  they  make  a handsome  dish,  and  give  guests  a 
choice.  The  stronger  and  blacker  the  coflee  the  greater  the  contrast. 

Turret  Cream. — One  pint  sweet,  rich  cream,  one  quart  milk, 
one  package  Cox’s  gelatine,  one  heaping  cup  white  sugar,  three  eggs 
beaten  light,  whites  and  yolks  separately,  one-half  pound  crystal- 
lized fruit — cherries  and  peaches,  or  apricots — vanilla  flavoring,  juice 
one  lemon.  Soak  gelatine  four  hours  in  one  cup  milk,  scald  re- 
mainder of  milk  and  add  the  sugar,  and  when  this  is  dissolved  the 
soaked  gelatine ; stir  over  the  fire  until  almost  boiling,  and  divid? 
into  two  parts ; return  one  part  to  the  fire,  and  when  near  boiling 
stir  in  the  beaten  yolks,  cook  two  minutes,  and  turn  into  a bowl  to 
cool.  AVhen  it  cools  whip  the  cream  very  stiff  and  beat  whites  of 
eggs  until  they  stand  alone ; divide  the  latter  into  two  heaps.  As 
the  yellow  gelatine  begins  to  form  ” whip  one-half  the  whites  into 
it,  a little  at  a time  ; to  the  white  gelatine  add  rest  of  whites  in  same 
manner  alternately  with  whipped  cream ; season  yellow  with  vanilla 
and  white  v/ith  lemon  juice  beaten  in  last.  Wet  a tall  fluted  mold 
with  water  and  place  around  bottom  on  inside  a row  crystalized 
cherries,  then  a layer  white  mixture,  then  a layer  apricots  or  peach- 
es, sliced,  layer  yellow  mixture,  another  border  of  cherries,  and  bo 
on  until  all  materials  are  used.  When  firm,  which  will  be  in  a few 
hours  (in  summer  set  on  ice),  wrap  a cloth  wrung  out  of  hot  water 
on  the  mold,  and  invert  upon  a flat  dish ; serve  with  sweet  cream. 
A very  beautiful,  ornamental  and  delicious  dessert,  and  sure  to  be  a 
success  if  above  directions  are  followed.  Bitter  almond  may  be 
used  instead  of  lemon  if  preferred.  Made  in  the  fluted  mold  with 
stem,  filling  in  whipped  cream  in  center,  makes  a still  more  elabo- 
rate dish. 


CREAMS  AND  CUSTARDS. 


119 


Vy hipped  Cream. — Prepared  according  to  directions  in  preface 
vrhipped  cream,  s’weetened  and  flavored  is  a choice  dessert  alone, 
but  may  be  served  in  various  ways.  Baked  apples,  and  fresh  or 
preserved  berries  are  delicious  with  it.  Jelly  served  in  glasses  one* 
third  full  and  filled  up  with  cream  makes  a very  wholesome  and 
delicious  dessert. 

Wh{pp>ed  Cream. — One  and  one-half  pints  good  rich  cream 
sweetened  and  flavored  to  taste,  three  teapoons  vanilla ; whip  to 
stiff  froth.  Dissolve  three-fourths  ounce  best  gelatine  in  a small 
cup  hot  water,  and  when  cool  pour  into  the  cream  ; stir  thoroughly, 
pour  in  molds  and  set  on  ice,  or  in  very  cool  place. 

Almond  Custard. — Heat  a quart  milk  (half  cream  is  better)  to 
boiling  and  add  the  beaten  yolks  of  six  eggs,  whites  of  four  and  a 
half  pounds  almonds  blanched  and  pound- 
ed to  paste  with  four  tablespoons  rose  water. 

Put  over  boiling  water  and  stir  constantly 
until  it  thickens.  Then  remove  from  fire 
and  when  nearly  cold  stir  up  thoroughly  and 
pour  into  cups  or  glasses  ; make  a meringue  with  the  whites  of  four 
eggs  and  a half  cup  powdered  sugar,  flavored  with  one  teaspoon 
extract  bitter  almond,  and  heap  on  each  cup. 

Apple  Custard. — One  pint  mashed  stewed  apples,  one  pint  sweet 
milk,  four  eggs,  one  cup  sugar,  and  a little  nutmeg,  or  juice  and 
grated  rind  of  one  lemon  is  a nice  flavoring ; bake  slowly  in  custard 
cups  or  deep  dish,  and  serve  either  hot  or  cold. 

Boiled  Custard. — One  quart  milk,  two  tablespoons  corn-starch, 
two  eggs,  one-fourth  teaspoon  salt,  butter  size  of  hickory-nut ; wet 
starch  in  a little  of  the  milk,  heat  the  remainder  to  near  boiling  in  a 
tin  pail  set  in  boiling  water.  The  proper  heat  will  be  indicated  by  a 
froth  or  film  rising  to  the  top  ; add  the  starch  till  it  thickens,  stirring 
constantly,  then  add  the  eggs  well-beaten  with  four  tablespoons 
sugar,  let  it  cook,  stirring  briskly,  take  off  and  beat  well.  Flavor  to 
taste,  and  served  vith  grated  cocoa-nut  it  is  elegant.' 

Caramel  Custard. — To  make  a baked  custard,  separate  the 
whites  and  yolks  of  five  eggs  (or  four),  beat  yolks  well  with  a quar- 
ter pound  (half  tea-cup)  sugar,  add  the  well-beaten  whites,  and  mix 
well  with  a quart  milk.  Flavor  and  then  pour  into  buttered  mold 
or  cups.  Set  immediately  into  a pan  boiling  hot  water,  in  moder- 
ately hot  oven.  About  half  an  hour  will  be  required  to  set  it  firmly. 
When  nicely  browned  and  puffed  up,  touch  the  middle  with  a knife 
blade ; if  it  cuts  as  smooth  as  around  the  sides  it  is  done ; take  care 
not  to  overdo.  This  makes  a plain  custard.  To  make  Caramel 
Custard.,  let  stand  until  perfectly  cool,  turn  out  gently  on  a plate 
and  dust  thickly  with  sugar,  place  in  upper  part  of  hot  oven ; the 
sugar  soon  melts  and  browns.  Or,  put  half  cup  sugar  in  saucepan 


Custard  in  Glasses. 


120 


CREAMS  AND  CUSTARDS. 


over  the  fire,  stir  constantly  until  dissolved,  pour  into  unhuttered 
pudding  dish,  tipping  the  dish  so  it  will  run  round  the  sides,  fill  with 
custard  and  bake ; or  some  butter  the  mold  carefully,  sprinkle  sugar 
over  bottom  and  set  on  stove  to  brown,  pour  in  custard  and  ba& ; 
when  turned  out  the  caramel  will  be  on  top.  Use  less  sugar  for  the 
custard  when  carameled  if  not  liked  very  sweet.  Grated  almonds 
or  coacoa-nut  may  be  added.  A thinner  custard  may  be  made  with 
less  eggs,  but  it  cannot  be  carameled  unless  baked  in  individual  cups. 
Less  eggs  may  also  be  used  by  substituting  a portion  of  corn  starch, 
boiled  rice,  gelatine  or  something  else  to  give  firmness,  but  the  qual- 
ity of  custard  will  be  impaired.  Baking  too  rapidly  or  too  long 
injures  custard,  hence  do  not  scald  milk  and'  eggs  before  setting  in 
oven,  as  many  recommend.  By  baking  in  boiling  water  the  temper- 
ature is  regular,  and  scorching  prevented. 

Boiled  Caramel  Custard. — One  quart  milk,  half  cup  sugar,  six 
eggs,  half  teaspoon  salt.  Put  the  milk  on  to  boil,  reserving  a cup- 
ful. Beat  the  eggs,  and  add  the  cold  milk  to  them.  Stir  the  sugar 
in  a small  frying-pan  until  it  becomes  liquid  and  just  begins  to  smoke. 
Stir  it  into  the  boiling  milk,  then  add  the  beaten  eggs  and  cold  milk, 
and  stir  constantly  until  the  mixture  begins  to  thicken.  Set  away 
to  cool.  Serve  in  glasses. 

Chocolate  Custard. — Break  two  sections  chocolate  in  a hali 
dozen  pieces,  put  in  a pan  over  boiling  water  with  milk  enough  to 
barely  cover ; inash  and  stir  perfectly  smooth,  then  add  the  rest  of 
the  milk  (one  quart  in  all,  reserving  three  tablespoons  in  which  to 
dissolve  corn-starch)  one  cup  sugar,  yolks  of  six  eggs,  heaping  table- 
spoon corn-starch;  beat  yolks,  add  sugar  and  corn-starch  (dissolved 
in  milk),  stir  all  slowly  in  the  boiling  milk  in  which  the  chocolate  is 
dissolved,  add  pinch  salt  and  let  cook  a few  minutes,  stirring  con- 
stantly. Serve  cold  in  glasses  with  a meringue  of  whites  of  eggs  on 
top,  or  only  half  fill  glasses  with  custard  and  finish  with  whipped 
cream  as  in  almond  cake.  Or  pour  this  custard  in  a deep  glass 
dish  lined  with  pulped  apples,  sift  powdered  sugar  over  top  and 
glaze  with  salamander  iron. 

CoiFee  Custard. — Boil  together  a pint  each  fresh  strong  coffee 
and  cream  and  turn  the  mixture  over  eight  eggs  beaten  up  with  one 
and  one-half  cups  sugar,  stirring  rapidly,  then  set  into  boiling  hot 
water  and  cook,  stirring  constantly  until  it  thickens ; pour  into  cus- 
tard cups  and  serve  cold  with  whipped  cream  or  frothed  whites  of 
eggs  on  top. 

Corn  Meal  Custard. — To  the  well  beaten  yolks  of  three  eggs 
add  a quart  milk  and  tablespoon  each  butter  and  sugar ; then  add 
gradually  scant  three-quarters  tea-cup  fine  corn  meal,  well  whipped 
vhites  and  flavor  with  nutmeg ; pour  in  cups,  boil  or  steam  fifteei; 
minutes  and  brown  delicately  in  oven ; or  reserve  whites  of  two  eggs^ 


CREAMS  AND  CUSTARDS. 


121 


add  to  them  two  tablespoons  sugar,  cover  tops  and  browm  as  above 
and  serve  hot  or  cold. 

Cup  Custards. — One  scant  quart  milk,  four  well-beaten  eggs 
one  cup  sugar,  liavor  to  taste ; stir 
thoroughly  together  until  sugar  is  dis- 
solved ; pour  into  cups  and  set  in  pan 

boiling  hot  'water  in  oven  to  bake.  — — bustard  in  cups. 

They  'will  be  done  in  about  thirty  minutes.  Serve  cold  in  the  cups. 

Fruit  Custards. — Stew  any  kind  of  fruit  almost  to  a jelly, 
s;train  otf  the  juice,  cool,  and  s'weeten  to  taste.  To  one  quart  sweet- 
ened juice  add  eight  Avell-beaten  eggs  stirred  into  three  pints  new 
milk.  Set  in  boiling  water  until  it  thickens,  or  bake  twenty  to  thirty 
minutes.  Serve  in  cups  or  a deep  dish  as  preferred  either  hot  or 
cold.  Whipped  whites  of  eggs  over  the  top  iniprovesits  appearancCo 

Gelatine  Custard. — To  one-third  package  Cox’s  gelatine  add  a 
little  less  than  one  pint  boiling  water  : stir  until  gelatine  is  dissolved, 
add  juice  one  lemon,  and  one  and  a half  cups  sugar ; strain  through 
9 jelly-strainer  into  dish  for  the  table,  and  set  in  a cool  place.  For 
custard,  to  one  and  a half  pints  milk  add  yolks  of  four  eggs  (reserv- 
ing the  whites),  and  four  tablespoons  sugar;  cook  and  flavor  when 
cool.  When  required  for  the  table  cut  gelatine  into  small  squares 
find  pour  the  custard  over  them.  Add  four  tablespoons  powdered 
sugar  to  whites  of  four  eggs  well  beaten,  and  when  ready  for  the  table 
place  over  the  custard  with  a spoon. 

Lemon  Custard. — Put  the  thin  yellow  rind  of  two  lemons,  with 
mice  of  three,  and  sugar  to  taste,  into  one  pint  warm  water.  As 
lemons  vary  in  size  and  juiciness  the  exact  quantity  of  sugar  can 
not  be  given.  Ordinary  lemons  require  three  gills.  It  will  be  safe 
to  begin  with  this  qiiantity  and  more  may  be  added  if  required. 
Beat  the  whites  to  stiff  froth,  then  the  yolks,  then  beat  both  together^ 
pour  in  gradually  while  beating  the  other  ingredients ; put  all  in  a 
pail,  set  in  a pot  boiling  water,  and  stir  until  thick  as  boiled  custard. 
Strain  in  a deep  dish ; when  cool  place  on  ice.  Serve  in  glasses. 

Snow-hall  Custard  -Half  package  Cox’s  gelatine,  three  eggs, 
two  cups  sugar,  juice  one  lemon ; soak  gelatine  one  hour  in  cup  cold 
water,  add  one  pint  boiling  water,  stir  until  thoroughly  dissolved  ; 
add  two-thirds  of  the  sugar  and  the  lemon  juice  ; beat  whites  of  eggs 
to  stiff  froth,  and  when  the  gelatine  is  quite  cold  whip  it  into  tlie 
whites  a spoonful  at  a time,  beating  from  half  an  hour  to  an  hour 
Whip  steadily  and  evenly,  and  when  all  is  stiff  pour  in  a mold  or  in 
a dozen  egg-glasses  previously  wet  with  cold  water  and  set  in  a cold 
place.  In  four  or  five  hours  place  in  a glass  dish.  Make  a custard 
of  one  and  one-half  pints  milk,  jmlks  of  eggs  and  remainder  of  the 
'mgar,  flavor  with  vanilla  and  when  the  snow-balls  are  turned  out  ol 
the  mold  pour  this  around  the  base. 


122 


CREAMS  AND  CUSTARDS. 


Cocoa-nut  Island. — Line  with  cake  bottom  and  sides  of  dish  in 
which  dessert  is  to  be  served ; dissolve  in  custard  kettle  one  pint 
sugar  in  half  pint  water,  add  one  tablespoon  corn-starch  previously 
mixed  smooth  with  a little  water  and  well-beaten  yolks  of  four  eggs  ; 
cook  till  it  Sickens,  add  juice  of  two  lemons,  heaping  taolespoon 
butter  and  cook  a few  minutes  then  pour  into  dish ; grate  one  cocoa- 
nut,  sweeten  a little  and  put  over  the  custard ; place  a meringue  of 
the  well-beaten  whites,  half  cup  sugar  and  a few  drops  lemon  juice 
in  flakes  over  the  top,  brown  delicately  in  oven  and  serve  either  hot 
or  cold.  A nice  way  is  to  make  in  souffle  dish,  or  baking  dish  that 
will  fit  and  serve  in  silver  receptacle,  or  use  a fancy  disn  and  brown 
top  with  salamander  iron  as  directed  in  souffles. 


.Tam.  Floating  Island. 


Floating  Island. — Make  custard  of  yolks  of  six  eggs,  one  quart 
milk,  small  pinch  salt,  sugar  to  taste ; beat  and  strain  yolks  before 
adding  to  milk ; place  custard  in  a large  tin  pan  and  set  in  stove, 
stirring  constantly  until  it  boils,  then  remove,  flavor  with  lemon  or 
rose,  and  pour  into  a dish  (a  shallow,  wide  one  is  best),  spread 

smoothly  over  the  boiling  hot 
custard  the  well-beaten  whites, 
grating  some  loaf  sugar  ( some  add 
grated  cocoa-nut)  on  top ; set  the 
dish  in  a pan  of  ice-water  and 
serve  cold ; or  turn  into  glasses 
and  serve  with  whipped  cream  or 
frotlied  whites  of  egg  on  top, 
finishing  with  lump  of  jelly  in 
center.  Some  prepare  the  whites 
by  placing  a tablespoon  at  a time  on  boiling  water  or  milk,  lifting 
them  out  carefully,  when  cooked,  with  a skimmer  and  laying  them 
gently  on  the  float.  Do  not  crowd  them  while  cooking.  This  is  the 
“old  reliable  recipe.’’  Another  way  of  serving  is  to  pour  the  above  cus- 
tard over  slices  of  small  round  sponge  cakes,  spread  with  fruit  jelly 
and  placed  in  ice  cream  saucers,  piling  a spoonful  whipped  cream 
on  top  of  each  ; or  cut  sponge  cake  in  slices  and  lay  them  on  a round 
dish  on  the  top  of  the  custard.  On  this  put  a layer  of  apri- 
cots or  currant  jam,  and  some  more  slices  of  cake.  Pile  upon  this 
very  high  a whip  made  of  damson  or  other  jam  and  the  whites  of 
four  eggs.  It  should  be  rough  to  imitate  a rock.  Garnish  with  fruits 
or  sweetmeats.  Still  another  beautiful  and  delicious  island  is  made 
by  whipping  whites  four  eggs  very  stiff  and  beating  with  one  tumbler 
jelly,  adding  one  pint  powdered  sugar  gradually,  then  beating  the 
whole  until  perfectly  stiff.  Chill  on  ice  and  serve  by  half  filling  a 
glass  dish  with  milk  and  cover  it  with  the  island  in  spoonfuls  stand- 
ing in  peaks.  To  be  eaten  with  sweetened  cream. 


Moonshine. — This  dessert  combines  a pretty  appearance  with 
palatable  flavor,  and  is  a convenient  substitute  for  ice  cream.  Beat 


CREAMS  AND  CUSTARDS. 


123 


whites  of  six  eggs  to  ver}^  stiff  froth,  add  gradually  six  tablespoons 
owdered  sugar  (to  make  it  thicker  use  more  sugar  up  to  a pint), 
eating  not  less  than  thirty  minutes,  then  beat  in  about  one  heaping 
tablespoon  preserved  peaches  cut  in  tiny  bits  (or  some  use  one  cup 
jelly),  and  set  on  ice  until  thoroughly  chilled.  In  serving,  pour  in 
each  saucer  some  rich  cream  sweetened  and  flavored  with  vanilla, 
and  on  the  cream  place  a liberal  portion  of  the  moonshine.  This 
quantity  is  enough  for  seven  or  eight  persons. 

Hidden  Mountain. — Six  eggs,  a few  slices  citron,  sugar  to  taste, 
three-quarters  pint  cream,  a layer  of  any  kind  of  jam  ; beat  whites 
and  yolks  of  eggs  separately,  then  mix  and  beat  again,  adding  citron, 
cream  and  sugar;  when  well-beaten  put  in  a buttered  pan  and  fry; 
cover  with  the  jam  and  garnish  with  slices  of  citron;  to  be  eaten 
cold. 

Orange  Float. — One  quart  water,  the  juice  and  pulp  two  lemons, 
one  coffee-cup  sugar ; when  boiling  add  four  tablespoons  corn-starch, 
let  boil  fifteen  minutes,  stirring  all  the  time  ; when  cold  pour  it  over 
four  or  five  peeled  and  sliced  oranges,  and  over  the  top  spread  the 
beaten  white  of  three  eggs ; sweeten  and  add  a few  drops  vanilla. 

Tride.—ln  the  bottom  of  a deep  glass  bowl  place 
bits  of  sponge  cake,  it  matters  not  how  stale,  cut  into 
squares  or  strips ; a small  piece  of  preserved  citron 
cut  into  slices ; soak  these  in  cream  nicely  flavored, 
then  fill  the  bowl  to  within  half  an  inch  of  the  top 
with  boiled  custard,  rich  and  cold ; lastly,  heap  the 
bowl  up  high  with  whipped  cream  or  whites  of  eggs, 
and  place  on  it  nuts,  fruits  or  jelly,  cut  in  thin  slices, 
so  that  they  will  not  sink  into  the  cream. 

Trifle. 

Ambushed  Trifle. — Take  a round  stale  sponge  cake,  cut  the  top 
from  it  in  one  piece  and  lay  it  aside.  With  sharp  knife  carefully 
remove  inside  of  cake  leaving  sides  and  bottom  about  an  inch  thick 
and  coat  well  with  sweet  jelly  or  jam;  crab-apple  jelly  is  very  nice. 
Scald  a pint  milk,  beat  three  eggs  with  two  tablespoons  powdered 
sugar,  and  stir  into  milk  when  almost  boiling ; crumb  the  cake  taken 
out  and  beat  into  the  hot  custard ; return  to  the  hot  fire  and  cook, 
stirring  constantly,  until  thick  and  smooth,  then  add  one  teaspoon 
corn-starch  wet  with  a little  milk,  cook  a minute  longer  and  take 
from  fire ; when  nearly  cold  flavor  with  vanilla,  lemon,  or  bitter 
almond,  and  fill  the  cake  with  it.  Cover  inside  of  the  lid  of  cake 
laid  aside  with  jelly,  and  fit  neatly  into  its  place.  Brush  the  whole 
cake  with  white  of  an  egg,  sift  powdered  sugar  thickly  over  it,  or 
frost  with  plain  or  boiled  frosting,  and  set  in  a cool,  dry  place  until 
tvanted.  A simple,  delightful  dessert. 

Lemon  Trifle.  — Strain  juice  two  lemons  over  one  lai’ge  cup 
sugar  and  grated  rind  of  one  lemon  and  let  stand  two  hours  ; then 


124 


SOUFFLES. 


add  one  cup  juice  of  any  fruit  preferred,  and  a little  nutmeg.  Strain 
and  whip  into  it  gradually  a pint  sweet  cream  that  has  been  whipped 
stiff.  Serve  in  jelly  glasses  and  send  around  with  cake.  .Should 
be  eaten  soon  after  it  is  made. 


Souffles. 


The  extreme  lightness  and  delicacy  of  a well-made  souffle  ren- 
der it  a general  favorite.  It  may  be  varied  greatly  in  its  composition 
and  is  commonly  served  under  the  name  of  the  flavoring  used, 
Vanilla  is  one  of  the  jnost  delicate  flavorings  for  this  elegant  dish, 
The  secret  of  making  a souffle  well  is  to  have  the  eggs  well  whipped, 
particularly  the  whites,  using  for  them  a perfectly  dry  dish  and 
beater  as  the  slightest  moisture  will  prevent  their  coming  to  a froth, 
and  unless  the  froth  of  egg  be  very  stiff  the  omelette  souffle  will  be 
made  heavy  by  it  and  so  spoiled.  Put  all  ingredients  together 
quickly  but  gently,  stirring,  not  beating, -and  if  to  be  baked  place  in 
oven  as  soon  as  whites  a, re  added  in  a buttered  souffle  dish  or  pan, 
filling  only  half  full,  .as  it  will  rise  very  light.  Do  not  have  the  oven 
too  hot  nor  open  oven  door  for  the  first  quarter  of  an  hour^ 
at  least.  When  the  souffle  has  risen  very  high,  is  of  a 
fine  yellow  color,  and  quite  done  in  the  center,  as  it  will 
be  in  from  a half  to  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  send  immedi- 
ately to  table,  for  if  allowed  to  stand  it  will  sink  in  the  centea* 
and  its  appearance  and  goodness  be  entirely  spoiled.  To  keep  hot, 
and  so  preserve  its  lightness,  the  souffle  is  often  carried  to  table  on  a 
hot  shovel,  or  with  a hot  salamander 
iron  held  over  it,  and  placed  in  the 
ornamental  dish  already  on  the  table, 
and  served  in  a dinner  of  ceremony  as  saiamwi4«r. 

an  entremert,  a remove  of  the  second  course  roast,  or  for  luncheon; 
quickly  hand  it  round  instead  of  placing  on  the  table.  The  sala- 
mander, or  braising  iron,  is  a very  convenient  utensil  for  browning 
the  tops  of  boiled  souffles,  puddings  and  the  menngues  spread  over 
creams,  blanc-manges,  or  puddings  to  be  served  cold,  or  in  glass 


SOUFFLES. 


125 


dishes,  doing  away  with  the  necessity  of  placing  them  in  the  oven. 

The  souffle  pan  maybe  of  either  earthenware 
or  tin,  and  should  be  about  three  inches  dee]), 
fitting  into  an  ornamental  dish  for  serving, 
which  is  usually  of  silver.  This  article  will 
be  found  very  convenient,  as  it  may  be  used 
for  custards,  puddings,  scalloped  oysters. 

Ornamental  Souffle  Dish.  potato  creaiu,  or  any  dlsh  served  in  the  pan 
in  which  it  is  baked.  Souffles  may,  however,  be  baked  in  any  deep 
tin  or  earthen  baking  pan,  which  may  be  sent  to  table  on  a plate  or 
platter,  surrounded  b}^  a neatly  folded  napkin. 

Apple  SouMe. — One  pint  steamed  apples,  pulped  ; one  tablespoon 
melted  butter,  half  cup  sugar,  whites  of  six  eggs  and  yolks  of  three, 
a slight  grating  of  nutmeg,  and  a little  lemon  peel.  Stir  into  the 
hot  apple  the  butter,  sugar  and  nutmeg,  and  the  yolks  of  the  eggs, 
well-beaten.  When  this  is  cold,  beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a stiff 
froth,  and  stir  into  the  mixture.  Butter  a three-pint  dish,  and  turn 
the  souffle  into  it.  Bake  thirty  minutes  in  a moderate  oven.  Serve 
immediately  with  any  kind  of  sauce. 

Cheese  SouMe. — Melt  a tablespoon  butter,  stir  into  it  two  table- 
spoons flour,  add  one  gill  milk  and  stir  until  boiling ; throw  in  one- 
half  teaspoon  each  salt  and  white  pepper  and  a grain  Cayenne ; take 
from  fire  and  stir  in  one  by  one  yolks  of  three  eggs  and  three  ounces 
grated  cheese,  beating  the  whole  thoroughly,  then  add  well-frothed 
whites  four  eggs,  stirring  so  carefully  as  not  to  beat  down  the  froth ; 
bake  in  cups  in  quick  oven  ten  minutes.  Serve  in  the  cups  on  hot 
plate  the  moment  the  souffle  is  done,  placing  them  in  a napkua 
folded  in  basket  shape  upon  the  table. 

Chestnut  SouMe. — Throw  one  pint  fresh  chestnuts  into  boilin^^ 
water  and  boil  until  shells  begin  to  crack  open.  Take  from  tho 
water,  remove  shells  and  inner  skins,  pound  in  a mortar  and  make 
perfectly  smooth  by  passing  them  through  a sieve.  Pour  one  pint  milk 
over  the  chestnut-flour  and  stirring  these  together  put  the  mixture  into 
a small  saucepan  and  let  it  cook  over  a slow  fire  ten  minutes,  melt 
a tablespoon  butter  and  stir  into  it  two  tablespoons  flour ; turn  this 
into  the  milk  and  chestnuts,  and  the  instant  the  mixture  boils  take 
from  fire  and  add  two  tablespoons  powdered  sugar,  yolks  three  eggs, 
and  beat  all  well  together ; stir  in  lightly  the  stiffly  frothed  whites  of 
four  eggs,  pour  into  well-greased  souffle  pan  and  bake  in  moderate 
oven  twenty  minutes.  Serve  as  soon  as  taken  from  the  oven. 

Chicken  SouMe. — Take  the  breast  of  one  raw  chicken,  chop  fine, 
and  pound  in  a mortar,  melt  a half  tablespoon  butter  and  stir  into  it  one 
tablespoon  each  flour  and  sweet  cream ; when  boiling  take  from  fire 


SOUFFLES. 


i6 


ind  pour  over  the  mixture  in  the  mortar  adding  one  egg ; pound 
veil  together,  season  with  pepper  and  salt  and  pass  through  a sieve ; 
whip  a gill  of  cream  (less  the  tablespoon  used)  to  a froth  and  add  to 
the  mixture  ; have  ready  two  truffles,  cut  into  stars,  and  place  one 
star  in  the  bottom  of  each  buttered  cup-tin,  fill  half  full  of  the  souffle 
mixture,  cover  with  greased  paper,  put  into  a pan  boiling  water  and 
let  them  simmer  slowly  fifteen  minutes ; when  done  turn  out  on  hot 
platter,  leaving  truffles  uppermost,  and  serve  at  once. 

Chocolate  SouMe. — Break  four  eggs,  whites  and  yolks  sepa- 
rately ; add  to  the  yolks  three  teaspoons  sugar,  one  teaspoon  flour ; 
three  ounces  chocolate,  grated,  and  stir  rapidly  five  minutes ; whip 
whites  of  eggs  till  firm  and  add  them  to  the  other  ingredients.  But- 
ter the  souffle  pan,  put  in  the  mixture  and  bake  in  moderate  oven 
fifteen  or  twenty  minutes ; strew  sugar  over  and  serve  immediately, 
carrying  to  table  with  hot  salamander  over  the  top.  Another  excel- 
lent chocolate  souffle  is  made  by  melting  one  large  tablespoon  butter, 
stirring  into  it  over  the  fire  two  tablespoons  flour,  adding  a gill  of 
milk,  and  when  boiling  remove  from  the  stove,  add  nine  tablespoons 
grated  chocolate  and  a heaping  tablespoon  sugar,  and  drop  in  one  by 
one  the  yolks  of  four  eggs,  stirring  briskly  all  the  time ; whip  whites 
of  four  eggs  and  stir  in  last  very  lightly ; pour  the  mixture  into  the 
souffle  pan,  set  in  a pan  of  hot  water  reaching  half  way  up  its  sides, 
cover  and  simmer  on  back  of  range  thirty  minutes  without  uncover- 
ing ; when  done,  brown  with  salamander,  set  pan  into  souffle  dish  or 
envelop  in  a napkin ; serve  at  once.  Or  to  the  well-beaten  yolks  of  six 
eggs  add  half  pint  butter,  cup  flour,  pint  milk  and  half  cup  grated 
chocolate ; bake  in  souffle  dish  in  hot  oven ; serve  at  onee. 

Chocolate  SouMe.  (Cold).  — Two  cups  milk,  one  and  a half 
squares  Baker’s  chocolate,  three-fourths  cup  powdered  sugar,  two 
tablespoons  corn-starch,  three  eggs,  one-fourth  teaspoon  salt,  half 
teaspoon  vanilla  extract.  Boil  the  milk  in  double  boiler,  leaving  out 
’third  of  a cup  to  mix  with  the  corn  starch.  After  mixing,  stir  into 
the  boiliug  milk  and  cook  eight  minutes.  Dissolve  the  chocolate 
with  half  a cup  of  the  sugar  and  two  tablespoons  boiling  water ; add 
to  the  other  mixture ; beat  the  yolks  and  add  them  and  the  salt. 
Cook  two  minutes.  Set  in  ^old  water  and  beat  until  cool,  then  add 
flavor  and  pour  into  a dish ; beat  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a stiff  froth, 
add  the  remaining  sugar  and  heap  on  the  custard.  Dredge  with 
sugar  and  brown  with  a salamander  or  hot  shovel. 

Cream  SouMe. — Four  eggs,  two  tablespoops  sugar,  a speck  of 
salt,  half  teaspoon  vanilla  extract,  one  cup  cream,  whipped.  Beat 
whites  of  eggs  to  stiff  froth,  and  gradually  add  sugar  and  flavoring 
to  them.  When  well-beaten  add  yolks,  and  lastly  the  whipped 
cream.  Have  a dish  holding  about  one  quart  slightly  buttered.  Pour 
the  mixture  into  this  and  bake  just  twelve  minutes.  Serve  the  mo- 
ment it  is  taken  from  the  oven. 


SOUFFLES. 


m 


Jelly  SouMe. — Boil  one  quart  milk  and  add  three  tablespoons 
€orn-starch  wet  with  a little  cold  milk ; stir  one  minute  and  pour 
into  a bowl  over  beaten  yolks  of  six  eggs,  whites  of  two,  and  one- 
half  cup  powdered  sugar;  whip  two  or  three  minutes,  put  into  but- 
tered dish,  set  in  pan  of  boiling  water  in  oven  and  bake  half  an  hour, 
or  until  firm.  Just  before  taking  out  cover  quickly  with  jelly  or  jam 
and  over  this  put  a meringue  of  the  four  whites  of  eggs  and  a half 
cup  powdered  sugar.  Close  oven  doors  for  a moment  till  meringue 
is  slightly  colored.  When  cold  serve  with  cream. 

Lemon  SouMe. — Melt  two  tablespoons  butter  and  stir  into  it 
four  tablespoons  flour ; add  one  ounce  arrowroot,  four  tablespoons 
sugar  and  one  pint  milk  (having  previously  taken  one  gill  of  the 
milk  in  which  to  steep  the  thin  yellow  rind  of  a lemon  for  flavoring), 
stir  until  it  boils  and  when  boiling  strain  into  it  the  milk  from  the 
lemon  rinds.  Set  aside  and  when  slightly  cool  drop  in  one  by  one 
the  yolks  of  four  eggs,  stir  well  together  and  add  the  frothed  whites 
of  five  eggs,  stirring  them  in  very  lightly.  Turn  quickly  into  souffle 
pan,  cover  and  set  in  boiling  water ; draw  to  back  of  range  and  let 
simmer  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  keeping  closely  covered.  Serve 
when  done  as  quickly  as  possible. 

Macaroon  SouMe. — Soak  one-third  box  gelatine  in  half  cup 
water  two  hours,  then  set  over  hot  water  and  stir  until  dissolved, 
strain  and  stir  it  into  one  pint  juice  of  any  kind  of  fruit  preferred 
Add  a half  cup  sugar,  or  sweeten  to  taste,  place  the  pan  on  ice  and 
as  soon  as  the  mixture  begins  to  thicken  whip  uutil  it  hardens  like 
jelly ; set  away  on  ice.  Brown  ten  macaroons  in  oven,  cool  them 
and  roll  fine.  Just  before  ready  to  serve  make  any  soft  custard 
liked,  omitting  the  flavoring,  turn  it  into  a scuffle  dish,  heap  the 
fruit  jelly  on  this  and  cover  with  the  macaroon  crumbs. 

Omelette  SouMe. — Cream  yolks  of  three  eggs  and  three  table- 
spoons sugar  in  a deep  bowl  and  flavor  as  wished ; add  well-frothed 
whites  of  six  eggs,  and  with  a spoon,  giving  it  a rotary  motion,  cut 
the  two,  mixing  carefully  together ; turn  on  the  souffle  dish  (or  any 
baking  dish)  slightly  buttered,  smooth,  sprinkle  with  sugar  and  bake 
in  moderate  oven ; when  risen  well  and  of  fine  yellow  color,  serve ; 
or,  for  Fruit  Omelette  SouMe  add  to  the  well  frothed  whites  of  three 
eggs  a tablespoon  marmalade  or  fresh  peaches  cut  in  fine  pieces,  mix 
with  powdered  sugar  and  bake  in  a rather  quick  oven ; or  place  a 
layer  of  marmalade  on  bottom  of  dish  and  pour  the  omelette  souffle 
over  and  bake. 

Omelette  SouMe — Put  one  pint  milk  over  the  fire,  reserving  suffi- 
cient to  wet  up  three  heaping  tablespoons  potato  flour,  rice  flour, 
arrowroot,  or  tapioca,  as  preferred,  stir  this  into  the  milk,  add  piece 
of  butter  size  of  walnut,  and  sweeten  to  taste.  Stir  over  the  fire  un- 
til it  thickens,  then  take  off  iind  cool  a little.  Separate  the  whites 


128 


SOUFFLES. 


from  the  yolks  of  four  eggs,  beat  the  yolks,  and  stir  them  into  the 
souffle  batter.  Whisk  the  whites  of  eggs  to  the  firmest  possible 
froth,  for  on  this  depends  the  excellence  of  the  dish;  stir  them  to 
the  other  ingredients,  and  add  a few  drops  of  essence  of  any  flavor- 
ing preferred  ; pour  the  batter  into  a souffle  dish,  put  it  immediately 
into  the  oven,  and  bake  about  half  an  hour ; then  take  out  and  put  the 
dish  into  the  more  ornamental  one,  hold  a salamander  or  hot  shovel 
over  the  souffle,  strew  it  with  sifted  sugar,  and  send  it  instantly  to 
table.  Another  delicious  souffle  is  made  by  beating  yolks  of  four 
eggs,  two  tablespoons  sugar,  a speck  of  salt  and  tablespoon  flavor- 
ing together,  and  adding  quickly  the  well- 
frothed  whites.  Have  a large  omelette  pan 
very  hot.  Put  in  one  tablespoon  butter  and 
pour  in  half  the  mixture.  Shake  rapidly  for 
a minute ; then  fold  and  turn  on  a hot  dish. 

Omelette  Pan,  Put  the  remainder  of  the  butter  and  mixture 

in  the  pan  and  proceed  as  before.  Turn  this  omelette  on  the  dish 
by  the  side  of  the  other.  Dredge  lightly  with  sugar,  and  place  in 
oven  for  eight  minutes.  Serve  the  moment  it  comes  from  oven. 

Orange  SouMe. — Peel  and  slice  six  oranges,  put  in  a glass  dish 
a layer  of  oranges  ; then  one  of  sugar,  and  so  on  until  all  the  orange 
is  used,  and  let  stand  two  hours  ; make  a soft  boiled  custard  of  yolks 
of  three  eggs,  pint  milk,  sugar  to  taste,  with  grating  of  orange  peel 
for  flavor,  and  pour  over  the  oranges  when  cool  enough  not  to  break 
dish  ; beat  whites  of  eggs  to  stiff  froth,  stir  in  sugar  and  put  over  the 
top  ; may  be  browned  with  salamander  iron  or  hot  shovel.  Praised 
by  all. 

Potato  SouMe. — Clean  well  with  a brush  and  bake  four  large 
otatoes,  cut  off  the  tops,  scoop  out  the  inside,  taking  care  not  to 
reak  the  skins ; rub  the  potato  through  a sieve  and  add  to  it  a half 
gill  of  boiling  milk  into  which  a tablespoon  of 
butter  and  half  teaspoon  each  salt  and  white 
pepper  have  been  stirred ; continue  stirring  until 
potato  becomes  hot,  take  from  the  fire  and  drop  in  potato  soume. 
the  yolks  of  three  eggs,  stirring  each  one  thoroughly  with  the  potato 
mixture  before  dropping  in  another ; lastly,  stir  in  lightly  the  frothed 
whites  of  five  eggs,  being  careful  not  to  break  the  froth ; fill  the 
potato  skins  two-thirds  full  of  this  mixture,  stand  upright  in  a pan, 
and  bake  in  a quick  oven  from  seven  to  ten  minutes.  The  souffle 
will  be  done  when  the  finger  can  be  pressed  upon  it  and  withdrawn 
without  any  adhering.  Serve  on  hot  platter. 


CONFECTIONERY. 


129 


C0]SrFECTI01SrER.Y. 


There  are  very  few  modern  kitchens  in  which  some  cooking 
utensils  may  not  he  found  convenient  for  making  candy.  A sauce- 
pan of  tinned  iron,  with  a handle  and  flaring  sides,  and  a lip  ta 
facilitate  the  pouring  of  the  contents,  will  be  found  best  adapted  to 
such  use  ; or  a small  iron  or  brass  kettle  will  do  if  kept  quite  cleam 
Dissolve  four  pounds  white  sugar  (granulated  sugar  is  preferred) 
in  one  quart  water,  place  this  in  a porcelain  kettle  over  a slow  fire 
for  half  an  hour,  pour  into  it  a small  quantity  of  gelatine  and  gum- 
arabic  dissolved  together,  or  white  of  an 
egg ; all  the  impurities  which  rise  to  the 
surface  skim  off  at  once.  To  make  the 
c iarifying  process  still  more  perfect,  strain 
'thromgh  a flannel  bag.  Another  way  to 
clarify  sugar  or  syrup  is  to  put  two  pounds  sugar,  one  pint  water,  and 
well-beaten  white  of  an  egg  into  a preserving-pan  or  lined  saucepan. 
When  sugar  is  dissolved  place  over  the  fire,  and  when  it  boils  throw 
in  a cup  cold  water,  and  do  not  stir  the  sugar  after  this  is  added. 
Bring  to  the  boiling-point  again,  and  then  place  the  pan  on  back  of 
stove  or  range  to  settle.  Remove  all  scum  and  the  syrup  will  be 
ready  for  use.  The  scum  should  be  placed  on  a sieve,  so  that  what 
syrup  runs  from  it  may  be  boiled  up  again ; this  must  also  be  well 
skimmed.  It  will  take  about  twenty  minutes  for  the  sugar  to  dis- 
solve, and  five  minutes  to  boil.  After  clarifying  confectioners  pre- 
pare different  degrees  of  sugars  as  follows : 

9 


Sauce-pan 


130 


CONFECTIONERY. 


Candy  or  Thread  Sugar. — Having  clarified  the  sugar  put  syrup 
over  the  fire  and  let  boil  until  smooth,  dip  a skimmer  into  sugar, 
touch  it  with  thumb  and  and  fore-finger,  first  dipping  them  in  water, 
and  instantly  open  them,  when  a fine  short  thread  of  sugar  will 
form ; a few  minutes’  more  boiling  and  the  thread  will  be  longer  and 
stronger,  and  has  attained  the  first  degree.  SouMe  Sugar. — Boil 
the  syrup  still  longer,  then  dip  in  the  skimmer  and  blow  off  the  syrup. 
If  boiled  long  enough  bubbles  will  form  on  the  holes  of  the  skim- 
mer. The  second  degree  is  reached.  Feathered  Sugar. — Boil  still 
longer,  again  dip  the  skimmer,  shake  it,  and  give  a sudden  flirt ; if 
boiled  enough  the  sugar  will  fly  off  like  small  feathers  or  down. 
Cr adding  Sugar. — Boil  still  longer,  till  on  dipping  a stick  into  the 
pan  and  plunging  into  cold  water  the  sugar  snaps  and  becomes 
instantly  hard.  Caramel  or  Spun  Sugar. — First  boil  one  pound 
sugar  and  one  gill  water  together  very  quickly  over  a clear  fire, 
skimming  it  very  carefully  as  soon  as  it  boils.  Keep  boiling  until 
it  snaps  when  a little  of  it  is  dropped  in  a pan  of  cold  water.  If 
it  remains  hard,  the  sugar  has  attained  the  right  degree ; then 
squeeze  in  a little  lemon-juice  and  let  remain  an  instant  on  the  fire ; 
then  set  the  pan  into  another  of  cold  water,  and  tli^e  caramel  is  ready 
for  use.  The  insides  of  well-oiled  moulds  are  often  ornamented  with 
this  sugar,  which  with  a fork  should  be  spread  over  them  in  fine 
threads  or  network.  A dish  of  light  paste,  tastefully  arranged, 
looks  very  pretty  with  this  sugar  spun  lightly  over  it,  and  it  makes 
an  elegant  coloring  for  any  sweetmeats.  The  sugar  must  be  care- 
fully watched,  and  taken  up  the  instant  it  is  done.  Unless  one  is 
very  experienced  and  thoroughly  understands  the  work,  it  is  scarcely 
worth  while  to  attempt  this  elaborate  ornament,  yet  if  these  direc-  • 
tions  are  carefully  folloAved  one  may  be  successful.  To  make  rock 
candy,  boil  the  syrup  a few  moments,  allow  to  cool,  and  crystalliza- 
tion takes  place  on  the  sides  of  the  vessel.  To  make  other  candies, 
bring  the  syrup  very  carefully  to  such  a degree  of  heat  that  the 
threads”  which  drop  from  the  spoon  when  raised  into  the  colder 
air  will  snap  like  glass.  When  this  stage  is  reached  add  a teaspoon 
of  vinegar  or  cream  tartar  to  prevent  “ graining,”  and  pour  into  pans 
as  directed  in  the  recipes  which  follow.  Butter  should  be  put  in 
when  candy  is  almost  done,  and  flavors  are  more  delicate  when 
added  just  after  taking  from  the  fire.  To  make  round  stick  candies, 
pull,  and  roll  into  shape  with  well-floured  hands  as  soon  as  cool 


CONFECTIONERY. 


131 


enough  to  handle.  In  making  candy  into  flat  sticks,  squares,  or  any 
shape,  indent  it  when  partially  cool  with  a warm  knife  rubbed  with 
butter,  and  when  cold  it  will  separate  easily.  Colored  candies  are 
often  injurious,  and  sometimes  even  poisonous,  and  should  be 
avoided.  In  making  meringues,  trifles  and  kisses,  use  fine  powdered 
sugar  (“  Confectioners’  XXX  ” is  the  best  grade) 
and  provide  a cone-shaped  bag  of  strong,  heavy 
linen  or  ticking — or  for  once  using,  strong 
brown  paper  will  do — through  a hole  in  the 
small  end  put  a funnel-shaped  tin  tube  one- 
half  inch  in  diameter  at  the  small  end,  and  pro- 
vided with  a flange  at  the  other  to  prevent  it  Meringue  Bag. 
from  slipping  quite  through  (these  tubes  are  of  various  shapes  for 
kisses,  trifles,  lady-fingers,  etc.),  tie  the  small  end  of  the  bag  firmly 
■around  the  tube,  and  holding  bag  in  right  hand  squeeze  the  mixture 
through  in  shapes  desired,  using  a good  deal  of  pressure  if  cakes 
are  to  be  large,  but  if  small  very  little  will  do.  Bake  in  a very  mod- 
erate oven,  or  let  dry  in  cool  oven  for  two  hours.  The  oven  for 
meringues,  kisses,  etc.,  should  be  slower  than  for  angel  cake,  and 
kept  at  an  even  temperature;  if  meringues  are  exposed  to  much 
heat  they  will  be  spoiled.  When  powdered  almonds  are  to  be  used, 
they  should  be  thoroughly  dried  in  the  open  air  after  blanching,  and 
iliey  will  pulverize  more  easily.  In  making  macaroons  or  drops,  or 
pulling  butter-SQotch  or  taffy,  butter  hands  lightly  to  prevent  stick- 
ing. Flouring  the  hands  is  apt  to  give  an  unpleasant  taste  to 
the  candy. 

Blanched  almonds  should  always  be  prepared  the  day  before 
wanted  that  they  may  become  perfectly  dry  before  using.  To  blanch 
them,  shell  and  put  them  into  hot  water  after  it  comes  to  a boil,  and 
let  boil  a few  minutes,  then  throw  them  into  cold  water,  slip  off  the 
skins  and  dry  in  the  open  air.  Never  dry  them  in  the  oven,  which 
takes  away  the  oil.  Shelled  almonds  are  more  economical  for  use 
in  cakes  or  confectionery.  One  pound  of  unshelled  almonds  only 
makes  six  and  one-half  ounces  or  one  coffee-cupful  when  shelled, 
while  the  shelled  are  generally  only  double  the  price,  and  sometimes 
not  that  per  pound.  The  Princess  is  the  best  variety  to  buy  in  the 
shell.  The  bitter  almond  is  considered  injurious  to  animal  life  and 
should  be  used  with  great  caution.  Of  the  shelled  sweet  almonds 
tlie  Jordan  is  the  finest,  though  the  Sice! 3^  is  good.  To  prepare 


132 


CONFECTIONERY. 


cocoanut  make  an  incision  through  the  meat  at  one  of  the  holes  in 
the  end,  draw  off  the  milk,  pound  the  nut  well  on  all  sides  to  looseii 
the  meat,  crack,  take  out  meat,  and  set  pieces  in  heater  or  in  a cool, 
0{)en  oven  overnight,  or  for  a few  hours,  to 
dry — or  better  in  open  air,  as  too  much  heat 
dries  the  oil — then  grate  ; if  all  is  not  used, 
sprinkle  with  sugar  (after  grating)  and 
spread  out  in  a cool,  dry  place,  and  it  will 
keep  for  weeks.  Dessicated  cocoanut  may 
always  be  used  in  place  of  the  fresh,  first 
moistening  slightly  witli  milk.  If  one  is  at 
hand  use  the  la])or-saving  grater  for  grating 
cocoa-nut  and  almonds,  for  which  it  is  de- 
signed, as  well  as  for  pumpkins,  horse-radish,  and  such  other  arti- 
cles as  need  treatment  on  a coarse  grater.  It  is  fastened  to  a strong 
frame  v/hich  is  screwed  to  a table,  and  as  will  be  readily  seen  do(jH 
its  work  with  great  rapidity.  This  is  as  great  an  imjirovement  inits 
way  as  the  modern  egg  beater  is  over  a spoon.  For  sending  awssv 
home-made  confections  or  bride’s  cake  very  pretty  little  satin  satch* 
ets  are  made,  which  are  of  course  much  more  highly  prized  by  the 
recipients  than  the  fancy  boxes  for  that  purpose 
to  be  had  of  confectioners.  The  white  wire 
candy  tongs  illustrated  are  an  excellent  substi- 
tute for  silver,  where  the  latter  can  not  be  ^ caudy  Tongs, 
afforded,  for  use  in  serving  candies  provided  for  dessert. 


Butter-Scotch. — Three  pounds  “coffee  A”  sugar,  fourth  pound 
butter,  half  teaspoon  cream  tartar,  eight  drops  extract  lemon ; add 
as  much  cold  water  as  will  dissolve  the  sugar ; boil  without  stirring 
till  it  will  easily  break  vvhen  dropped  in  cold  water,  and  when  done 
add  lemon ; have  a dripping-pan  well  buttered  and  pour  in  one-fourth 
inch  thick,  and  when  partly  cold  mark  off  in  squares  as  directed  in 
preface.  If  pulled  when  partly  cold  till  very  white,  it  will  be  like 
ice-cream  candy. 

Hoar  hound  Candy. — Boil  two  ounces  dried  hoarhound  in  a pint 
and  a half  water  for  about  half  an  hour ; strain  and  add  three  and  a 
half  pounds  brown  sugar  ; boil  over  a hot  fire  until  it  is  sufficiently 
hard,  pour  out  in  fiat,  well-greased  tin  trays,  and  mark  into  sticks  or 
small  squares  as  above. 

Lemon  Candy. — Take  a pound  loaf  sugar  and  a large  cup  watei, 


Labor-saviug  Grater. 


CONFECTIONERY. 


133 


and  after  cooking  over  a slow  fire  half  an  hour  clear  with  a little  hot 
vinegar,  take  off  the  scum  as  it  rises,  testing  hy  raising  with  a spoon, 
and  when  the  “ threads”  will  snap  like  glass  pour  into  a tin  pan  and 
when  nearly  cold  mark  in  narrow  strips  with  a knife.  Before  pour- 
ing into  the  pams,  chopped  cocoa-nut,  almonds,  peanuts,  hickory- 
nuts,  or  Brazil-nuts  cut  in  slices,  may  be  stirred  into  it. 

Maple  Candy. — Three  and  a half  pounds  or  two  quarts  maple 
sugar,  one  and  a half  pints  water ; mix  in  a vessel  large  enough  to 
hold  the  candy  Avhen  expanded  by  heat ; boil  over  a brisk  fire  taking 
care  that  it  does  not  burn.  The  heat  should  be  applied  at  bottom 
and  not  at  sides.  When  it  boils  up  throw  in  a little  cold  water,  take 
from  fire  and  skim  well,  and  do  this  as  often  as  impurities  arise. 
After  boiling  fifteen  minutes  remove  a small  portion  of  the  melted 
sugar  with  a spoon  and  cool  by  placing  in  a saucer  set  in  cold  water. 
When  cool  enough  take  a portion  between  thumb  and  finger  and  if 
it  forms  a “ string  ” or  “ thread  ” as  they  are  separated,  the  process  is 
nearly  done,  and  great  care  must  be  used  to  control  the  heat  so  that 
the  boiling  may  be  kept  up  without  burning.  Test  frequently  by 
dropping  a bit  into  cold  water  placed  near ; if  it  becomes  hard  and 
brittle,  snapping  apart  when  bent,  it  is  done.  Stir  in  a teaspoon 
cream  tartar  or  tablespoon  vinegar,  remove  from  stove  at  once  and 
pour  into  shallow  dishes,  thoroughly  but  lightly  greased,  covering 
each  thinly.  Cool  until  it  can  be  handled,  pull  to  any  length  or 
width  desired  and  finish  as  directed  in  preface  ; indent,  separate  or 
roll  into  sticks  or  make  any  desired  shapes.  Begin  pulling  as  soon 
as  possible,  as  it  is  more  brittle  than  molasses  candy. 

Molasses  Candy. — Two  cups  molasses,  one  cup  brown  sugar  and 
butter  half  the  size  of  a walnut ; boil  twenty  minutes,  then  add  two 
teaspoons  cream  tartar,  one  of  soda  and  one  tablespoon  vinegar. 
Pull  till  light.  Taffy : Two  tablespoons  vinegar,  four  of  water,  six 
of  sugar  (white  is  nicest) ; boil  twenty  minutes  and  pour  into  a 
buttered  plate. 

Peanut  Candy. — Boil  two  pounds  brown  sugar,  one  gill  good 
molasses  and  a half  pint  water  until  it  hardens  in  cold  water  when 
dropped  from  a spoon,  and  add  two  teaspoons  vanilla,  a teaspoon 
soda  (dry)  and  four  quarts  skinned  peanuts  (measured  before  they 
are  shelled).  Turn  into  shallow,  well-buttered  pans  and  press  down 
smooth  with  wooden  spoon.  When  partially  cold  cut  into  strips. 
Unrivalled  of  its  kind.  For  other  nut  candy  use  walnuts,  hickory- 
nuts  or  almonds.  Another  way  is  to  fill  a buttered  tin  tray  to  the 
depth  of  about  an  inch  with  the  nuts,  and  pour  over  them  just 
enough  of  the  c^ndy  mixture  to  barely  cover ; cool  and  mark  as 
directed 

_ Cocoa-nut  Patties. — Kasp  a good  fresh  cocoa-nut  on  a grater, 
letting  none  of  the  rind  fall.  Spread  the  cocoa-nut  thus  grated  on 


134 


CONFECTIONERY. 


a dish  and  let  it  stand  in  some  cool,  dry  place  two  days  to  dry  grad- 
ually.  Add  to  it  double  its  weight  of  sifted 
poivdered  sugar,  the  whites  of  six  eggs,  well- 
whipped,  and  a cup  flour  to  every  pound 

S>coa-nut  Patties.  sugar.  Drop  the  mixture  on  a baking-tin,  a 

spoonful  at  a time,  or  into  drop-cake  tins.  Bake  in  very  gentle 
oven  about  twenty  minutes,  take  from  tins  while  warm  and  when 
cold  put  away  in  close  tin  box  or  can. 

Bergamot  Drops. — One  pound  sifted  granulated  sugar,  one  gil 
bergamot  water,  mixed  well  over  the  fire  about  five  minutes.  Drop 
in  very  round  drops  on  paper. 

Centennial  Drops. — White  of  one  egg  beaten  to  a stiff  froth, 
quarter  pound  pulverized  sugar,  half  teaspoon  baking  powder ; flavor 
with  lemon ; butter  tins  and  drop  with  teaspoon  about  three  inches 
apart ; bake  in  a slow  oven  and  serve  with  ice-cream.  This  is  also 
a very  nice  recipe  for  icing. 

Chocolate  Drops. — Scrape  or  grate  chocolate  to  a powder,  and 
mix  one  ounce  of  it  with  each  pound  sugar  used ; make  into  paste 
with  cold  water  and  boil  up  gently.  Drop  on  thick  white  paper 
from  a spoon  to  cool  and  dry.  Co'fee  Drops  made  same  way,  allow- 
ing one  ounce  finely  powdered  coffee  to  one  pound  sugar. 

Cinnamon  Drops. — Put  one  ounce  cinnamon  in  a mortar,  sift- 
ing it  afterwards  through  a fine  hair  or  silk  sieve ; mix  with  it  over 
the  stove  a pound  loaf  sugar  moistened  with  a very  little  water. 
Take  the  mixture  up  in  a teaspoon  and  drop  on  stiff  white  writing- 
paper.  Let  them  get  cold  and  they  will  come  off  easily.  Make 
Clove  Drops  same  way. 

Cocoa-nut  Drops. — One  pound  cocoa-nut,  half  pound  powdered 
sugar,  and  the  white  of  an  egg ; work  all  together  and  roll  into  little 
balls  in  the  hand ; bake  on  buttered  tins. 

Fresh  Damson  Drops. — Bake  some  damsons,  skin,  stone  and 
strain  through  a sieve.  Mix  enough  sifted  powdered  sugar  to  make 
a thin  paste,  drop  on  paper  and  let  them  get  quite  dry ; then  put 
them  on  a sieve,  wetting  it  a little  or  they  will  stick.  They  must 
again  dry  on  a stove  and  be  kept  in  a box. 

Ginger  Drops. — Pound  and  sift  as  much  ginger  as  you  wish 
the  drops  to  taste  of,  and  stir  with  one  pound  loaf  sugar  and  a little 
w-ater  over  the  fire  until  it  boils  up.  Drop  and  dr}^  on  paper. 

Lemon  Drops. — Squeeze  the  juice  from  six  good  lemons  and 
add  sifted  loaf  sugar  until  so  stiff  it  can  hardly  be  stirred ; put  in 
shallow  saucepan  and  stir  over  the  fire  five  minutes.  Drop  from  a 
spoon  on  thick  paper. 


CONFECTIONERY. 


135 


Lemon  and  Peppermint  Drop^s. — Set  a quantity  of  granulated 
sugar  and  a little  water  over  the  fire  in  a saucepan  with  a lip,  in  the 
proportion  of  two  ounces  water  to  one  pound  sugar.  It  must  not 
come  to  a full  boil,  hut  remove  from  stove  just  as  the  bubbles  that 
denote  the  boiling  point  is  reached  begin  to  form ; let  cool  a little, 
stirring  rapidly,  add  strong  essence  lemon  or  peppermint  to  taste, 
and  drop  as  uniformly  as  possible  on  sheets  of  manilla  paper,  tilting 
the  vessel  slightly  and  stroking  off  the  drops  from  the  lip  with  bit 
of  stiff  wire  or  a spoon.  Keep  in  a warm  place  for  a few  hours  to 
dry.  Delicious  drops  may  be  made  by  substituting  juice  of  fresh 
fruits  for  essence,  or  using  any  other  essence  preferred. 

Orange  Drops. — Squeeze  out  the  juice  of  three  good  lemons, 
adding  some  sifted  powdered  sugar ; grate  six  small  sweet  oranges, 
put  all  in  a shallow  pan  on  the  fire  till  it  is  of  a nice  thickness,  stir 
continuously  with  a wooden  spoon  five  or  six  minutes.  Take  the 
mixture  from  the  fire  and  drop  it  on  thick  white  paper  in  small 
drops. 

Orgeat  Drops. — Pound  well  in  a mortar  four  ounces  blanched 
almonds,  moistening  with  a little  water,  and  make  a paste.  Flavor 
with  orange  flower  water,  strain  the  whole  through  a cloth,  moisten 
with  half  pound  powdered  sugar  and  form  into  drops  on  paper  to 
dry. 

Strawberry  Drops. — One-half  pound  each  juice  and  powdered 
sugar,  well-frothed  whites  of  two  eggs ; mix  all  together  and  drop 
on  tins,  putting  in  very  cool  oven  to  dry.  Any  Fresh  Fruit  Drops 
made  same  way. 

Evsrton  Cream  Candy. — Squeeze  juice  of  one  large  lemon  into 
a cup  ; boil  one  and  one-half  pounds  moist  white  sugar,  two  ounces 
butter,  one  and  a half  cups  water,  together  with  half  the  rind  of  the 
lemon,  and  when  done  (which  may  be  known  by  its  becoming  quite 
crisp  when  dropped  into  cold  water)  set  aside  till  boiling  has  ceased 
and  then  stir  in  the  juice  of  the  lemon,  butter  a ‘dish  and  pour  in 
about  an  inch  thick  ; when  cool  take  out  peel  (which  may  be  dried), 
pull  until  white,  draw  out  into  sticks  and  check  about  four  inches 
long  with  a knife.  If  you  have  no  lemons,  take  two  tablespoons 
vinegar  and  two  teaspoons  lemon  extract.  The  fire  must  be  quick 
and  the  candy  stirred  all  the  time. 

French  Cream  Candy. — Put  into  a saucepan  one  pint  water  to 
each  pound  sugar ; boil  carefully,  for  upon  this  de]:)ends  the  success 
of  the  candies;  when  it  has  boiled  ten  minutes  (do  not  stir  while 
boiling)  it  is  time  to  try  it ; drop  from  the  spoon  into  a bowl  of  ice 
water  and  if  when  it  falls  to  the  bottom  you  can  take  it  up  between 
the  thumb  and  finger  into  a soft  hall,  which  must  not  be  sticky,  it  is 
^0  the  right  point.  Set  from  the  fire,  and  if  when  cool  a thin,  jelly 


136 


CONFECTIONERY. 


like  film  forms  over  the  surface,  it  is  properly,  done,  and  the  candy 
may  be  made ; but  if  the  coating  over  the  top  seems  at  all  sugary 
and  the  candy  is  wanted  creamy  and  nice,  a few  spoonfulls  of  water 
must  he  added  and  the  syrup  returned  to  the  fire  and  boiled  until 
the  proper  consistency  is  reached,  which  test  as  before.  Do  not  let 
it  become  the  least  brittle ; if  it  does,  add  water  and  cook  again.  A 
pinch  of  cream  tartar  helps  to  check  the  tendency  to  return  to  sugar. 
When  the  syrup  is  perfectly  done  and  cooled  so  that  the  finger  may 
be  borne  in  it,  beat  rapidly  with  a spoon,  and  in  ten  minutes  it 
should  be  a white  paste  resembling  lard,  which  can  be  worked  like 
bread  dough.  This  is  the  foundation  for  all  fine  candies  and  is  called 
by  French  confectioners  Fondant.  The  simplest  French  candies  are 
made  from  this  by  coloring  yellow  and  flavoring  with  lemon,  or  pink 
and  flavoring  with  raspberry,  and  working  into  balls,  cones,  shells, 
grooved  cones,  or  any  shape  fancy  dictates,  and  letting  them  stand 
until  they  harden.  Or  into  the  pink  colored  fondant  work  chopped 
English  walnuts,  flavor  with  vanilla,  press  into  oiled  paper  cases  an 
inch  wide  and  deep,  and  three  or  four  inches  long,  and  when  firm 
turn  out  and  cut  into  cubes  for  Walnut  Creams.-  Or  use  chopped 
almond,  leaving  the  paste  white,  flavor  with  vanilla,  and  make 
Vanilla  Almond  Cream.  Work  into  a jiiece  of  the  paste  or  fondant 
chopped  almonds,  citron,  a few  currants  and  seedless  raisins,  flavour 
with  lemon,  vanilla  or  raspberry,  shape  in  paper  forms  and  the  result 
is  Tutti  Frutti  Candy.  One  should  bring  into  use  the  inventive 
faculties  and  with  the  above  as  helps  make  as  many  other  varieties 
as  wished.  A very  handsome  variety  is  called  Ribbon  Cream  Candy 
and  is  made  thus : Divide  a quantity  of  the  paste  prepared  as 
directed  into  three  equal  parts,  leaving  one  white,  color  one  pinlc 
with  cochineal  and  another  brown  with  melted  chocolate,  flavoring 
each  to  taste  ; divide  the  brown  and  white  into  two  parts,  making  into 
strips  an  inch  and  a half  wide  ; make  the  pink  also  into  a strip  of 
same  width  and  length,  which  will  leave  it  twice  as  thick  as  the 
others.  Lay  a strip  of  the  brown  on  a piece  of  manilla,  or  buttered 
or  waxed  paper,  then  a strip  of  white  on  that,  then  the  pink,  then 
the  white,  and  finish  with  the  brown  ; press  lightly  to  make  them 
adhere  but  do  not  squeeze  out  of  shape ; leave  a few  hours  to  harden, 
trim  smoothly  with  a knife  and  cut  crosswise  into  slices  half  an  inch 
thick,  lay  on  waxed  or  manilla  paper  to  dry,  turning  occasionally, 
and  pack  away  in  boxes.  If  the  paste  becomes  hard  while  working, 
let  it  stand  over  hot  water  a few  minutes ; or  if  wished  fresh  for 
dessert,  do  not  divide  the  colors  but  form 
into  a small  brick,  as  in  cut,  with  brown 
layer  first,  then  the  pink,  with  white  on  top. 

Place  on  small  fruit  plate  and  serve  by  ^ 
cutting  in  thin  slices.  Cream  Walnuts  or 
Almonds  are  made  by  shelling  and  drying 


the  nuts  and  then  dipping  into  the  paste,  first  melted 


Ribbon  Cream  Candy. 


over 


boil 


CONFECTIONERY. 


137 


ing  water  until  it  is  like  cream.  If  the  nut  shows  through  the  cream 
it  is  too  hot  and  must  be  set  out  of  the  water  and  beaten  until  cool  and 
thick  enough  to  thoroughly  coat  the  nuts.  If  it  hardens  return  to 
the  boiling  water.  Dry  the  creamed  nuts  on  manilla  paper. 
Another  variety  of  nut  candy  is  made  by  rolling  the  paste  into  balls 
and  placing  half  a whole  kernel  of  walnut,  almond,  or  other  nuts  on 
each  side,  pressing  it  in  until  it  adheres  firmly.  Chocolate  Creams 
are  made  by  boiling  a half  pound  sugar  and  three  tablespoons  thick^ 
sweet  cream,  till  it  makes  a soft  ball  in  water ; let  it  cool,  then  beat 
till  it  is  very  white,  flavor  with  a few  drops  vanilla  and  make  into 
balls  size  of  a small  marble ; warm  some  unsweetened  chocolate  and 
mix  it  with  a piece  of  the  melted  paste  (using  more  chocolate  than 
paste)  until  quite  smooth  and  thick  enough  to  coat  the  creams.  Drop 
the  balls  into  this  with  a fork  and  take  them  out  to  dry  on  waxed 
paper. 

French  Cream  (Uncooked). — Used  by  all  confectioners. 

Mix  whites  of  two  eggs  and  their  bulk  in  water  in  a large  bowl ; beat 
very  well,  add  a dessert-spoon  vanilla  and  about  two  pounds  “XXX’' 
confectioners’  sugar  finest  grade  of  powdered  sugar),  well  sifted, 
beat  well,  and  the  paste  is  ready  Take  one-half  pound  dates, 
remove  stones,  put  in  a piece  of  the  candy  paste  and  roll  each  one 
in  granulated  sugar.  For  Fig  Candy ^ split  one-half  pound  figs 
and  place  a layer  of  the  dough  on  a board,  first  sprinkled  well  with 
powdered  sugar  to  prevent  its  adhering,  then  a layer  of  figs,  again  a 
layer  of  dough,  and  cut  in  squares.  Nuts  of  any  kind  may  be  made 
up  into  candy  by  using  the  meats  for  the  foundation  or  inside  of 
little  balls  of  paste,  and  then  roll  in  coarse  sugar ; set  each  kind  out 
in  a cool  place  to  harden.  For  Chocolate  Creams  roll  any  number 
of  balls  size  of  small  marbles  from  the  dough  and  when  they  are 
hardened  dip  with  a fork  into  some  baker’s  chocolate  melted  on  the 
stove.  Be  careful  not  to  allow  it  to  boil ; better  to  melt  in  a little 
cup  placed  in  pan  of  hot  water  on  the  stove.  Cocoa-nut  Candy 
may  be  made  by  rolling  out  another  portion  of  the  dough  on  the 
floured  board,  sprinkle  vfith  cocoa-nut,  roll  a few  times  with  the 
roller,  and  cut  into  squares.  A mixture  of  cocoa-nut  and  nuts 
chopped  fine  makes  a delicious  candy.  For  English  Walnut  Candy 
split  the  walnuts,  shape  some  of  the  dough  into  round  flat  balls, 
place  a half  of  the  nut  on  each  side  and  press  firmly.  Use  hickory- 
nut  meats  for  Hickory-nut  Candy.  This  candy  is  now  being  made 
in  society  circles  a good  deal,  as  there  is  no  cooking  to  be  done  and 
it  is  very  easy  and  clean  work.  A dollar’s  worth  of  all  the  ingredi- 
ents together  will  make  many  pounds  of  candy. 

Lemon  Cream  Candy. — Steep  grated  peel  of  one  lemon  in  juice 
of  two  one  houi  and  strain,  squeezing  cloth  hard  to  get  out  all  the 
strength ; boil  six  pounds  best  white  sugar  with  three  cups  water 
until  it  hardens  in  cold  water;  stir  in  the  lemon  juice,  boil  one  min- 


138 


CONFECTIONERY. 


iite,  add  one  teaspoon  dry  soda,  stirring  in  well,  and  turn  out  upon 
broad,  shallow,  buttered  dishes.  Pull  as  soon  as  can  be  handled  into 
long  white  ropes  and  cut  into  lengths  w^hen  brittle.  Use  same  recipe, 
substituting  vanilla  flavoring  instead  of  lemon  for  Vanilla  Cream 
Candy, 

Chocolate  Caramels. — One  cup  chocolate  shaved  fine,  one  cup 
molasses  or  brown  sugar,  half  cup  milk  or  one  cup  cream,  one  cup 
sugar ; when  nearly  done,  if  milk  is  used,  add  apiece  of  butter  size  of 
a walnut ; when  cream  is  used  no  butter  will  be  needed ; stir  until 
perfectly  dissolved  but  not  after  it  begins  to  boil,  as  that  will  make 
it  grain  j it  is  done  w'hen  it  hardens  and  becomes  brittle  when 
dropped  in  cold  water,  but  do  not  make  too  hard ; grease  plates  with 
butter,  pour  it  on  about  half  an  inch  thick ; when  nearly  cool  cut 
with  a buttered  knife  into  small  squares. 

Chocolate  Caramels. — One  ana  a half  cups  grated  chocolate 
four  of  brown  sugar,  one  and  a half  of  cold  water,  piece  of  butter  size 
of  an  egg,  tablespoon  very  sharp  vinegar ; if  liked,  flavor  with  two 
tablespoons  vanilla  just  before  removing  from  fire;  do  not  stir,  but 
shake  the  vessel  gently  while  cooking ; boil  on  the  top  of  stove  over 
a brisk  fire  until  it  becomes  brittle  when  tried  in  water ; pour  into  a 
well  buttered  and  floured  dripping-pan,  and  check  off  in  squares 
while  soft. 

Cocoa-niU  Caramels. — One  pint  milk,  butter  size  of  an  egg,  one 
cocoa-nut  grated  fine  (or  dessicated  cocoa-nut  may  be  used),  three 
pounds  white  sugar,  two  teaspoons  lemon ; boil  slowly  until  stiff 
(some  then  beat  to  a cream),  pour  into  shallow  pans  and  when  partly 
cold  cut  in  squares.  The  butter  may  be  omitted. 

Cocoa-nut  Cones. — Pound  one  pound  blanched  and  shelled 
almonds  in  a mortar  with  whites  of  twelve  eggs  till  smooth.  Prepare 
and  grate  three  large  cocoa-nuts,  and  with  three  pounds  sugar  work 
into  the  pounded  almonds  and  eggs,  mold  into  cones  size  of  an 
English  walnut,  place  on  buttered  paper  a little  distance  apart  and 
bake  in  moderate  oven.  Dust  with  powdered  sugar  before  baking,  if 
liked. 

Maple  Chocolate  Creams.-V:\No  and  a half  cups  maple  sugar,  one- 
half  cup  cold  water  or  cream ; boil  until  it  makes  a soft  ball  in  cold 
water ; place  the  saucepan  in  cold  water,  and  beat  till  cold  enough  to 
make  into  little  balls  ; take  half  a cake  of  Baker’s  chocolate,  shave  off 
fine,  put  in  bowl  on  top  of  boiling  tea-kettle  to  melt,  and  when  balls 
are  cool  enough,  roll  in  the  chocolate  with  a fork.  This  makes 
eighty.  Or  while  making  into  balls,  mold  an  almond-meat  into  the 
center  of  each  ball,  roll  in  coarse  sugar,  and  you  have  delicious 
Cream  Almonds.  Or,  mold  the  unbroken  halves  of  walnut-meats 
into  the  soft  sugar,  and  when  cold,  roll  in  the  chocolate.  When 
finished,  take  out  and  lay  on  buttered  paper  until  cold 


CONFECTIONERY. 


139 


Kisses. — Beat  wiiites  of  four  small  eggs  to  a high,  firm  froth, 
stir  into  it  a half  pound  sifted  powdered  sugar,  two  teaspoons  at  a 
time,  flavor  with  essence  of  lemon  or  rose,  and  beat  very  light ; then 
squeeze  through  the  meringue  or  confectioner’s  hag  heretofore 
described  (using  tube  like  one  in  cut  if  you  have  it),  or  drop 
half  the  size  of  an  egg  a little  more  than  an  inch  apart  on  ma- 
nilla  paper  spread  over  a half  inch  board,  previously  soaked  in 
cold  water,  and  place  in  moderate  oven.  As  soon  as  they  begin  to 
look  yellowish  take  them  out. 

Almond  Macaroons. — One  pound  blanched  almonds  ground 
very  fine  with  a little  sugar  to  keep  from  oiling,  rub  whites  of  twelve 
eggs,  without  whipping,  into  the  almonds  until  perfectly  smooth. 
Add  one  and  one-half  pounds  pulverized  sugar,  two  ounces  corn- 
starch and  two  ounces  flour,  stirring  each  in  grad- 
ually and  thoroughly ; make  into  balls  with  a knife 
or  meringue  bag,  place  on  ungreased  papers  on 
Macaroons,  tios  and  wlth  a pastry  brush  dampen  each  one  and 

pat  into  shape  before  putting  in  oven.  Chocolate  Macaroons  are 
made  in  exactly  the  same  manner , working  two  ^ 
ounces  chocolate  cooked  with  one-half  cup  water^ 
and  one  ounce  sugar  into  the  almond  macaroon  Pastry  Brush. 

j>aste  when  ready  to  make  into  balls.  Make  Ilichory-nut  and  Pecan, 
Macaroons  in  same  way,  taking  the  finely-chopped  nut  meats  instead 
of  almonds,  and  omitting  the  flour,  using  four  ounces  corn-starch. 


Mjemon  Macaroons. — One  pound  powderea  sugar,  four  eggs 
whipped  very  light,  juice  of  three  lemons  and  grated  peel  of  one, 
one  heaping  cup  flour,  heaping  teaspoon  baking  powder,  one-half 
teaspoon  nutmeg;  butter  the  hands,  take  up  small  lumps  of  the 
mixture  and  make  into  balls  the  size  of  a walnut.  Bake  in  brick 
oven  on  sheets  of  manilla  paper,  placing  them  more  than  two  inches 
apart. 

Pyramid  of  Macaroons. — Boil  loaf  sugar  to  the  candy  point 
(see  preface  candy),  rub  butter  over  the  outside 
of  the  tin  or  paper  form,  set  firmly  on  a plate 
or  table,  and  begin  at  the  bottom  by  putting  a 
row  macaroons  around  it,  sticking  them  to- 
gf-ther  with  the  prepared  sugar,  then  adding 
another  row,  and  so  on  until  finished.  When 
the  cement  is  cold  the  pyramid  may  be  taken 
from  the  form.  Kisses,  or  cocoa-nut  drops,  be- 
ing lighter,  are  more  difficult  to  make  in  this 
form  than  macaroons. 

Meringues. — One  pound  powdered  sugar,  whites  of  nine  eggs ; 
whip  eggs  until  dish  can  be  inverted  without  their  falling  off,  and 
ihen  simply  add  the  sugar,  two  teaspoons  at  a time,  incorporating  it 


140 


CONFECTIONERY. 


thoroughly,  but  stirring  as  little  as  possible ; put  together  quickly 

fand  'svhen  properly  made  the  dough  will  stand  up  stiffly  if  cleft 
with  a knife.  The  dough,  or  a part  of  it,  is  sometimes  colored 
with  cochineal ; have  ready  either  hickory  or  maple  boards  three- 
fourths  of  an  inch  thick,  to  fit  oven,  soak  them  fifteen  minutes 
in  cold  water  and  cover  them  with  strips  of  heavy  manilla  paper 
about  two  and  a half  inches  wide ; on  these  drop  the  mixture  from 
the  end  of  a dessert-spoon  (or  use  the  meringue  hag),  giving  the 
meringues  the  form  of  an  egg,  dropping  them  about  two  inches  apart 
on  the  paper,  and  bake  till  a light  brown.  They  should  bake  very 
slowly,  as  the  longer  they  are  baked  the  thicker  the  crust  will  be. 
Leave  the  oven  door  open  for  a half  hour  at  least. 

Take  up  each  strip  of  paper  by  the  two  ends,  turn 
it  gently  on  the  table,  and  with  a small  spoon 
take  out  the  soft  part  of  each  meringue,  strew 
over  them  some  sifted  sugar  and  return  to  oven 
bottom  side  up  to  brown.  This  recipe  makes  four 
dozen  double  meringues  and  they  may  be  kept  for 
weeks.  When  Avanted  for  table,  fill  with  whipped 
cream,  ice-cream  or  jelly,  place  two  of  them 
i ogether  so  as  to  inclose  the  filling  and  serve.  To  Meringues, 
vary  their  appearance,  finely  chopped  almonds  or  currants  may  be 
strewn  over  them  before  the  sugar  is  sprinkled  oA^er,  and  they  may 
he  garnished  AAuth  any  bright  colored  preserA^e.  Or,  instead  of  mak- 
ing aboA^e  shape,  form  the  meringue  dough  into  half  balls  about  six 
inches  in  diameter;  dry  them  in  the  oven  very 
sloAvly,  so  that  the  crust  is  about  one-third  of  an 
inch  thick.  When  emptied  of  the  soft  interiors 
and  Avhen  cold,  tAvo  shells  are  placed  on  a platter 
like  an  open  clam  shell,  and  the  whipped  cream 
(already  set  by  being  on  ice)  is  banked  betAveen  them,  as  shoAvn  in 
cut,  reacliing  as  high  as  suits  the  fancy.  The  cream  may  be  deco- 
^ rated  AAutli  lierries,  sliced  nuts  or  candied  fruits,  or  serA^ed  without 
ornamentation. 

Marsh-Mallow. — Take  one  pound  each  gum  arabic  and  fine 
sugar,  half  a pint  of  the  decoction  of  marsh-malloAV  root,  tAVo  or 
three  drops  essence  of  neroli,  or  a small  quantity  of  orange  flower 
water  and  whites  of  six  eggs ; pulverize  the  gum  arabic  very  finely, 
after  Avhich  place  it  in  a round-bottomed  basin  (Avhich  must  be  A^ery 
clean  and  bright).  Add  to  it  one  and  a half  pints  water,  place  it  upon 
a sloiD  fire  to  dissoh^e,  stirring  it  constantly 
with  a Avooden  spatula  or  paddle  to  preA^ent  its 
adhering  to  the  bottom  and  scorching.  When 
it  is  entirely  dissolved  strain  through  a fine 
wire  strainer  into  a clean  basin.  Noav  add  the 
decoction  of  marsh-mallow  and  sugar,  place  over  a sIoav  fire  (one  cov- 
ered with  a thin  layer  of  ashes),  and  cook  to  a thick  consistence,  stir- 


CONFECTIONERY. 


141 


ring  constantly  ;add  well-whipped  whites  and  continue  stirring  without 
intermission  in  order  to  whiten  it  and  also  to  prevent  its  sticking  to 
the  pan,  which  would  discolor  and  entirely  spoil  the  paste.  Test  it 
by  placing  the  back  of  the  hand  upon  the  paste ; if  it  does  not 
adhere  to  it,  it  is  done . Add  the  neroli  or  the  orange  flower  water, 
continue  to  stir  a few  minutes  longer,  then  place  on  marble  slab  well 
dusted  with  starch  or  sugar  powder.  Flatten  out  and  dust  with 
starch  powder,  and  when  it  has  become  cold  cut  it  into  strips  or 
pieces.  Keep  in  tin  boxes  well  powdered  with  starch  in  order  to  pre* 
vent  it  from  sticking.  Cover  boxes  tightly  so  as  to  keep  the  air  from 
it  as  much  as  possible.  This  is  the  genuine  and  original  marsh-mal- 
low paste,  the  best  article  that  can  be  made.  Some  dispense  with  the 
mallow  root  on  account  of  its  unpleasant  taste  and  in  lieu  thereof  use 
apple  juice,  or  a decoction  of  apples,  which  is  supposed  to  be  equally 
good  and  to  possess  the  same  healing  qualities  as  the  mallow.  Others 
again  use  only  pure  water  in  the  preparation  of  this  paste.  It  is  then 
pate  ae  gomme^  although  its  appearance  is  precisely  the  same 
as  that  of  mallow  paste.  It  is  also  sometimes  flavored  with  extract  of 
v.anilla  or  raspberry  juice,  and  sold  dc^pate  de  guimauve. 

White  JSfoitgat. — Ten  pounds  white  sugar,  half  gallon  strained 
honey,  three  pounds  blanched  almonds,  one  tablespoon  oil  of  lemon, 
i.fter  the  sugar  is  melted  and  strained  cook  until  nearly  done ; have 
tire  honey  boiling  and  pour  on  the  sugar  in  the  kettle ; set  it  on  the 
fire  again  and  when  it  boils  up  well  pour  out  on  a greased  marble; 
add  the  oil  of  lemon.  When  cool  enough  to  handle  turn  it  up  and 
bleach  on  a candy-hook ; when  white  take  off  and  spread  it  on  the 
marble  and  sprinkle  the  blanched  almonds  over  it,  fold  up  and 
spread  out  again,  adding  more  almonds.  Continue  working  it  over 
the  same  way  until  all  the  almonds  are  worked  in,  then  form  into  a 
long  bar  and  cut  up  in  square  pieces. 

Pop-corn  Balls. — Dissolve  one  ounce  white  gum  arabic  in  half 
pint  water,  strain,  add  one  pound  granulated  sugar  and  boil  until 
when  a little  is  cooled  in  a saucer  it  becomes  so  thick  as  to  be 
stirred  with  difficulty.  Pour  over  a half  bushel  of  freshly  popped 
corn  and  when  well  stirred  up  the  kernels  will  adhere  in  a mass ; 
form  into  balls  by  pressing  with  the  floured  hands.  Ordinary  mo- 
lasses may  be  used  for  this  purpose  boiled  to  same  degree,  no  gum 
being  necessary.  Pop-corn  Cake  is  prepared  the  same,  putting  the 
mass  while  warm  into  tins  and  pressing  with  rollers  into  thin  sheets, 
afterwards  dividing  them  into  small  square  cakes. 

Ever  ton  Taffy. — Use  brown  sugar,  and  to  each  cup  take  quarter 
pound  very  best  butter ; put  into  a clean,  bright  basin  or  pan  and 
melt  together  over  a brisk  fire,  stirring  constantly  with  a wooden 
spatula,  adding  a few  drops  lemon  juice.  Ten  minutes’  boiling  will 
bring  it  to  the  desired  degree,  the  crack.,  which  may  be  known  by 
dropping  a little  upon  a cold  plate  or  saucer ; if  it  hardens  at  once. 


142 


CONFECTIONERY. 


it  is  done  ; add  lemon  or  vanilla  flavoring  just  before  the  cooking  is 
completed  ; pour  it  into  buttered  pans  or  on  a marble  table  (slightly 
buttered),  and,  when  cool  enough,  cut  or  mark  it  with  a greased 
knife  into  square  tablets ; loosen  it  from  the  marble  by  running  a 
knife  under  it  before  it  'becomes  entirely  cold.  This  is  the  real 
English  recipe  and  and  is  the  favorite  confection  of  all  true  Britons. 

Hickory-nut  Taify. — Two  pints  maple  sugar,  half  pint  w^ater, 
or  just  enough  to  dissolve  sugar ; boil  until  it  becomes  brittle 
b}^  dropping  in  cold  water ; just  before  pouring  out  add  table- 
spoon  vinegar ; having  prepared  the  hickory-nut  meats  in 
halves,  butter  patty  pans  well,  line  with  the  meats,  and  pour  taffy 
over  them. 

French  Trifles. — These  are  made  same  as  kisses,  but  the  board 
upon  which  they  are  baked  should  not  be  wet,  that  they  may 
harden  through.  A cut  of  tube  to  be  used  in  confectioner’s 
bag  when  shaping  them  is  here  given. 

Suc/ar  Threads. — Boil  sugar  until  brittle,  put  a few  drops  on 
buttered  form  and  draw  out  the  thread.  If  sufficiently  cooked  the 
thread  can  be  twisted  into  any  shape.  If  it  becomes  too  cold  to 
work,  heat  again. 

Kiss  Wafers. — Half  pint  blanched  bitter  almonds,  heaping 
cup  powdered  sugar,  whites  of  six  eggs,  one-third  cup  flour,  two 
tablespoons  corn-starch ; blanch  the  almonds  and  pound  them  in  a 
mortar,  adding  as  soon  as  they  are  broken  the  white  of  an  egg. 
Pound  until  very  fine.  When  there  is  a smooth  paste  add  the  sugar, 
a little  at  a time,  the  whites  of  two  eggs,  one  at  a time,  and  the  floui 
and  corn-starch.  When  thoroughly  mixed,  add  by  degrees  the  three 
remaining  whites.  Butter  the  bottom  of  a flat  baking  pan  and  put 
the  mixture  on  it  in  spoonfuls  ; spread  it  very  thin,  especially  in  the 
center,  and  bake  in  a quick  oven.  The  moment  the  cakes  are  taken 
from  the  oven  roll  into  the  shape  of  cornucopias.  If  allowed  to 
cool  they  cannot  be  rolled,  and  for  this  reason  it  is  best  to  bake  only 
half  a dozen  at  a time.  When  all  are  shaped,  fill  with  the  kiss  mix- 
ture made  by  beating  whites  of  three  eggs  to  a stiff  froth,  and  stir- 
ring into  them,  lightly,  four  tablespoons  powdered  sugar.  Place  the 
wafers  in  a warm  oven  for  twenty  minutes  or  half  an  hour,  to  dry. 
With  the  quantities  given  two  dozen  can  be  made. 

Cochineal  Coloring. — This  is  sanl  to  be  quite  harmless  and  is 
made  by  taking  one  ounce  each  powdered  cochineal,  cream  tartar, 
two  drachms  alum  and  a half  pint  water.  Boil  cochineal,  Avater  and 
cream  tartar  till  reduced  one-half,  a'^d  the  alum  and  put  into  small 
bottles.  Use  to  color  candies,  cake  blanc-mange  and  jellies. 


CANNING  FRUITS. 


143 


CAisnsrnsTG^  fr.tjits. 


In  order  to  work  intelligently,  the  principle  applied  in  canning 
should  be  understood.  The  fruit  is  prepared  by  placing  it  in  a 
vessel  from  which  the  external  air  is  entirely  excluded,  and  this  is 
effected  by  the  use  of  heat  to  rarefy  and  expel  the  air  that  may  be 
entangled  in  the  mass  of  fruit  or  lodged  in  its  pores.  The  preserva- 
tion of  fruit  does  not  depend  upon  sugar,  though  enough  of  this  is 
generally  used  to  make  it  palatable.  The  heat  answers  another  pur- 
pose ; it  destroys  the  ferment  which  fruits  naturally  contain,  and  so 
long  as  they  are  kept  from  contact  with  the  external  air  they  do  not 
decompose. 

Fruits  for  canning  should  be  selected  carefully,  and  are  much 
better  if  gathered  in  the  morning,  in  dry  weather,  with  the  morning 
sun  upon  them,  if  possible ; they  will  then  have  their  fullest  flavor, 
and  keep  in  good  condition  longer  than  when  gathered  at  any 
other  time.  Until  fruit  can  be  used,  it  should  be  placed  in  the  dairy, 
an  ice-house,  or  a refrigerator.  In  an  ice-house  it  will  remain  fresh 
and  plump  for  several  days.  Fruit  gathered  in  wet  or  foggy  weather  • 
will  soon  be  mildewed.  All  imperfect  and  over-ripe  fruit  must  be 
rejected.  Large  fruits,  such  as  peaches,  pears,  etc.,  are  in  the  best 
condition  to  can  when  not  quite  fully  ripe,  and  should  be  put  up  as 
soon  as  possible  after  picking.  An  easy  way  to  peel  peaches  is  to 
place  them  in  a wire  basket,  to  the  handle  of  which  a cord  has  been 
tied,  let  down  into  boiling  water  for  a moment  (some  use  strong 
white  lye),  then  into  cold  water,  and  strip  off  the  skin.  This  is 
called  the  dipping  process.  The  fruit  must  be  at  a certain  stage  to 
be  prepared  in  this  way,  for  if  too  green  it  will  not  peel,  and  if  too 


144 


CANNING  FRUITS. 


Paring  Knife. 


ripe  it  will  be  too  much  softened  by  the  hot  water.  Peaches,  pears, 

and  all  large  fruits  should  be  thrown  into 
an  earthen  vessel  of  cold  water  as  soon  as 
peeled, as  exposure  to  the  air  darkens  them. 
But  the  fruit  should  not  stand  long  in  the  water,  as  it  will  soon  be- 
come soft,  and  it  is  better  to  prepare  only  enough  for  one  can  at  a 
time.  Cooking  reduces  peaches  about  one-half  and  pears  one- 
third.  Small  fruits,  such  as  berries,  should  never  stand  overnight 
if  it  is  possible  to  avoid  it,  and  should  never  be  put  in  tin.  The 
highest-flavored  and  longest-keeping  fruits  are  best  put  up  without 
paring,  after  having  carefully  removed  the  down  with  a fine  but  stiff 
brush.  Use  only  the  best  sugar  in  the  proportion  of  half  a pound 
of  sugar  to  a pound  of  good  fruit,  varying  the  rule,  of  course,  with 
the  sweetness  of  fruit.  Fine  granulated  sugar  is  the  best  for  can- 
ning. In  canning  for  pies  many  omit  sugar,  as  the  natural  flavor  is 
better  preserved  without  it,  and  some  prefer  this  method  for  all  pur- 
poses ; several  recipes  without  sugar  are  given.  It  is  econom- 
ical, and  well  worthy  of  experiment.  Cans  put  up  in  this  way 
should  have  a special  mark  to  distinguish  them  from  the  rest. 
Before  beginning  the  work  of  canning  have  ready  all  the  neces- 
sary utensils,  which  include  the  following : A thin-bladed,  sharp, 
steel  knife  which  should  be  often  wiped  off  during  the  paring  pro- 
cess (though  a silver  knife  is  better  when  fruit  is  wanted  extra  nice), 
an  earthen  vessel  to  hold  fruit  after  it  is  peeled,  scales  for  weighing, 
or  two  pint  measures,  one  each  for  measuring  sugar  and  fruit,  a por- 
celain-lined or  granite  ironware  kettle  with  lip  (a  six-quart  kettle  is 
a good  size  and  two  will  be  found  convenient),  a tin  skimmer  for 
removing  the  scum,  a silver  or  thoroughl}^  clean  wooden  spoon 
(never  use  any  other  in  fruit),  a silver  knife  for  one-quart  cans  or 
round  woOden  stick  for  two-quart  ones  for  expelling  the  air  from 
cans  after  filling,  a silver  fork  or  a broom  splint  for  testing  cooked 
fruit  (a  steel  fork  discolors),  a wide-mouthed  fun- 
nel or  can-filler  made  to  set  into  the  can,  though  a 
small  tin  strainer  or  dipper  of  the  right  size  ivith- 
out  a bottom  will  do,  a wire  spoon  for  lifting  the 
larger  fruits,  a bright  tin  dipper  (if  old  or  rusty  it 
will  discolor  the  fruit),  or  a small  pitcher  or  large 
coffee-cup  with  handle  for  dipping  syrup  and  small 
fruits,  and  a small  handled  strainer  for  dipping  small  fruits  as  de- 


CANNING  FRUITS. 


145 


scribed  with  recipe,  a large  pan  with  heavy  folded  towel  in  bottom 
on  which*  to  stand  cans  while  heating,  and  plenty  of  holders  and 
towels  for  lifting  from  stove  and  wiping  off  cans.  Canned  fruit  is 
much  nicer  if  syrup  is  strained  when  pouring  into  can,  and  for  this 
purpose  make  a strainer  of  cheese-cloth  cut  round  and  large  enough 
to  sink  into  can-filler,  and  run  a fine  wire  or  string  into  the  top  to 
tie  or  hold  it  in  place,  or  use  handled  strainer  as  given  above. 

The  cans  must  be  thoroughly  cleaned  and  tested  to  see  if  any 
leak  or  are  cracked.  If  tin  cans  leak  send  them  to  the  tinner ; if 
discolored  inside  they  may  be  lined  with  writing  paper  and  are  thus 
used  by  many  with  success,  but  glass  cans  are  always  preferable.  In 
bu3ung  stoneware  for  canning  purposes  be  sure  that  it  is  well  glazed, 
as  fruits  canned  in  jars  or  jugs  imperfectly  glazed  sometimes  become 
poisonous.  Never  use  defective  glass  cans,  but  keep  ^them  for  stor- 
ing things  in  the  pantry,  and  in  buying  them,  take  care  that  they 
are  free  from  flaws  and  blisters,  else  the  glass  will  crumble  off  in 
small  particles  when  subjected  to  heat.  Self-sealers  are  very  con- 
venient, those  with  a porcelain-lined  screw  top  being  the  best,  the 
Mason  preferred.  (The  improved  Mason  has  a glass  top  held  in 
place  b}^  a metal  band  screwing  down  over  the  can,  and  these  are  not 
reliable.)  The  “Almy”  is  highly  recommended  by  many.  The  heat 
hardens  the  rubber  rings  used  on  self-sealers  but  new  ones  may  now 
be  procured  at  any  furnishing  store.  Most  of  the  earthenware  and 
tin  cans  have  a groove  around  the  top  for  sealing  with  wax  or  putty ; 
sealing  with  the  latter  is  most  convenient  as  the  jars  can  be  opened 
readily  with  a strong  fork  or  knife,  and  are  much  more  easily  cleaned 
than  when  wax-sealed.  Putty  may  be  bought  ready  for  use,  and  is 
soon  made  soft  by  molding  in  the  hand.  In  using  it  should  be 
worked  out  into  a small  roll,  and  pressed  firmly  into  the  groove  with 
a knife,  care  being  taken  to  keep  it  well  pressed  down  as  the  can 
cools.  Sealing-wax  is  bought  ready  prepared  or  can  be  made  of  two 
parts  resin  to  one  part  beeswax  melted  together.  In  sealing  pour  wax 
over  covers,  filling  the  grooves,  and  break  the  air  bubbles  that  rise 
with  the  wet  finger,  adding  more  if  necessary  to  make  air  tight. 
Fruit  intended  for  transportation  should  be  put  up  in  tin  cans  with 
the  flat  tops  that  are  soldered  on,  as  if  shipped  in  glass  the  danger 
of  breakage  is  great,  and  if  the  tin  cans  sealed  with  resin  or  putty 
are  used  bits  are  liable  to  crack  offl  letting  the  air  in  and  so  spoiling 
the  fruit. 


10 


146 


CANNING  FRUITS. 


There  are  several  ways  of  preparing  glass  cans  for  fruit,  among 
them  the  following : Wring  a towel  from  cold  water,  double  and 
wrap  closely  about  and  under  the  can  so  as  to  exclude  the  air,  and 
fill ; or,  put  a towel  in  a steamer,  set  in  the  cans,  and  place  over  a 
kettle  of  cold  water ; boil  the  water,  and  when  ready  to  fill,  remove 
the  cans  and  wrap  in  a towel  wrung  from  warm  water ; or  wash  the 
cans  in  tepid  water  and  at  once  pour  in  the  boiling  fruit,  but  not  too 
fast ; and  in  any  method  used  always  pour  into  the  center ; or, 
when  ready  to  can  fruit,  place  the  glass  jars  in  a large  pan  of  warm 
water  on  the  back  of  the  stove,  in  which  a thick  folded  towel  has 
been  previously  placed  to  guard  against  too  great  heat  for  the  bot- 
tom of  cans,  placing  the  covers  on  the  stove  in  a smaller  vessel  of 
water,  make  ready  the  syrup  in  the  clean  porcelain-lined  or  granite 
ironware  kettle  before  mentioned,  put  in  the  fruit — it  is  better  to 
prepare  only  enough  fruit  or  syrup  for  two  or  three  cans  at  a time — 
and  by  the  time  it  is  done  the  water  in  the  pan  will  be  hot  and  the 
cans  ready  for  use.  Peaches  and  pears  are  properly  cooked  when 
they  can  be  pierced  vith  a silver  fork.  Use  the  wire  spoon  for  lift- 
ing the  larger  fruits  from  the  syrups  and  a silver  fork  to  help  place 
in  the  cans,  which  should  be  done  closely  and  compactly  but  care- 
fully, filling  around  the  sides  first,  turning  the  inside  halves  of  the 
fruit  outward,  fut  in  as  much  fruit  as  possible  and  then  fill  up 
with  the  hot  syrup,  first  tying  on  the  little  cheese-cloth  strainer  here- 
tofore described,  which  catches  all  loose  particles  of  fruit  and  makes 
a clearer  syrup.  Berries  should  be  cooked  from  five  to  fifteen  min- 
utes, according  to  the  ripeness  of  the  fruit.  When  done  place  the 
can-filler  in  the  can,  fill  to  within  a half  inch  ()f  the  top  with  hot 
fruit,  always  pouring  into  the  center,  and  using  for 
this  purpose  the  bright  tin  dipper  (if  a pitcher  or 
cup  is  used  it  must  first  be  heated  to  prevent  crack- 
ing), then  place  on  a hot  platter,  remove  to  table,  wipe  off  upper 
parts  and  put  on  the  rubber  rings ; be  sure  these  are  perfect  and 
close-fitting,  throwing  away  all  that  are  imperfect ; let  stand  two  or 
three  minutes,  or  till  other  cans  have  been  filled,  when  the  fruit  will 
have  shrunk  away  a little ; fill  almost  to  top  with  the  hot  syrup,  or 
if  you  have  none,  boiling  water  from  the  teakettle  will  do  Now 
carefully  insert  a silver  knife  into  the  cans,  putting  it  in  at  the  sides 
so  as  not  to  bruise  the  fruit,  let  it  touch  the  bottom,  and  push  gently 
around  to  remove  the  air  bubbles,  slowly  pressing  and  withdrawing 


CANNING  FRUITS. 


147 


from  all  sides  until  the  hubbies  cease  to  come  up ; seal  at  once,  first 
filling  to  overflowing  so  that  when  the  covers  are  screwed  dov/n  the 
syrup  squeezes  out  around  the  edge,  taking  care  when  canning  ber- 
ries or  tomatoes  that  none  of  the  seeds  overflow  and  are  left  on  the 
rubber  rings  under  the  covers.  Many  insert  a spoon  in  cans  before 
filling  and  use  the  spoon  to  remove  the  air  bubbles ; in  canning  ber- 
ries this  answers  very  well,  but  the  knife  is  better,  especially  for 
peaches,  pears  and  all  the  larger  fruits,  as  it  is  not  so  liable  to  bruise 
them  and  slips  in  easier  around  the  sides.  In  the  two-quart  cans  a 
round  wooden  stick  may  be  used  for  this  purpose,  neither  knife  nor 
spoon  being  long  enough.  Wipe  off  the  cans  with  cloth  wet  in 
hot  water  and  also  inside  of  covers,  in  sealing,  first  screw  on  the 
covers  as  closely  as  possible  with  the  hand,  and  as  the  cans  cool 
turn  down  with  the  can-tightener,  which  always  comes  with  the  cans, 
this  is  a great  help  as  it  is  impossible  to  screw  covers  on  perfectly 
tight  with  the  hands.  Care  must  be  taken  to  have  the  rubber  ring 
show  an  even  surface  all  round,  for  if  it  slips  back  at  any  point  air 
will  be  admitted.  When  this  is  found  to  be  the  case  take  off  the 
cover,  find  a ring  to  fit  perfectly  and  re-seal  (it  may  be  necessary  to 
add  more  syrup,  which  must  squeeze  out  again  as  cover  is  tightened). 
Remove  the  cans  from  the  hot  platter  and  place  where  no 
current  of  air  will  strike  them,  wringing  out  a towel  from 
hot  water  on  which  to  stand  them.  When  other  caiio'  are 
filled  remove  these  to  another  part  of  table  and  set  those  filled  last 
on  the  towel.  After  all  are  canned  re-tighten  the  tops ; this  retight- 
ening is  very  important  and  the  tops  must  be  turned  down  again,  and 
again,  the  glass  contracting  as  the  fruit  cools.  Let  the  cans  stand  over 
night  hottom  side  up ; in  the  morning  turn  down  covers  again  with 
the  can-tightener,  wrap  well  in  paper,  tying  it  on  to  exclude  all  light, 
label — the  gummed  labels  that  can  be  purchased  in  book  form  ready 
to  cut  and  use  are  very  convenient — and  place  in  fruit  closet  or  cel- 
lar. Where  one  can  have  a small  room  in  cellar,  with  one  or  more 
windows,  place  shelves  around  the  sides  on  which  to  put  stone 
jars  of  pickles,  preserves,  jam,  etc.  It  is  nice  to  make  in  one  corner 
a fruit  closet  with  a door,  and  shelves  arranged  in  heights  to  fit  one 
and  two-quart  cans  and  jelly  glasses ; then  each  shelf  or  part  of  shelf 
can  be  labeled  with  the  fruit  or  j elly  placed  upon  it.  Have  in  upper  part 
of  door  a small  piece  of  window  wire  put  in,  or  two  or  three  augur 
holes  made  to  admit  the  air.  In  lieu  of  this  closet  many  bury  cans 


148 


CANNING  FRUITS. 


in  boxes  of  sand.  Light  injures  all  fruits,  but  especially  strawber- 
ries. The  place  should  be  dry  and  dark  and  cool^  but  where  there  is 
fresh  air;  if  too  warm  the  fruit  will  spoil,  as  heat  rnakes  it  fer- 
ment and  dampness  causes  mold.  Cans  should  be  examined  two  or 
three  days  after  filling,  and  if  syrup  leaks  out  from  the  rim  they 
should  be  unsealed,  the  fruit  thoroughly  cooked  and  kept  for  jam  or 
jelly,  as  it  will  have  lost  the  delicacy  of  color  and  flavor  so  desirable 
in  canned  fruits. 

AVhen  canning  a quantity  of  fruit,  after  removing  the  first  lot  of 
cans  from  the  pan  of  hot  water  the  water  must  be  made  tepid  before 
setting  in  the  remaining  cans,  then  heated  gradually  to  boiling  again 
and  kept  hot  until  those  cans  are  filled,  repeating  thus  until  all  are 
d.one.  If  at  any  time  there  is  not  fruit  enough  to  fill  a can  it  may 
l>e  left  standing  partly  filled  in  the  hot  water  until  more  fruit  is 
( ooked,  then  filled  and  removed  like  the  rest  to  the  hot  platter.  It 
i 3 always  best  to  cook  a small  quantity  of  fruit,  either  large  or  small, 
sd  a time  (not  more  than  one  or  two  quarts  of  the  large  varieties, 
S'nd  two  or  three  of  berries)  that  it  may  be  done  evenly.  If  a large 
mass  is  cooked  at  once  that  in  the  bottom  will  be  done  sooner  than 
that  on  top,  and  if  stirred  to  secure  uniformity  its  shape  will  be 
injured.  It  should  also  be  cooked  slovuly  to  preserve  the  form,  and 
ihe  larger  fruits  after  being  put  in  the  syrup  must  be  watched  very 
(losely  and  each  piece  taken  out  and  placed  in  can  as  soon  as  it  be- 
comes tender,  as  some  pieces  will  cook  in  xnuch  less  time  than  oth- 
(;rs.  In  canning  berries  use  as  little  water  as  possible,  and  some  can 
successfully  without  water.  To  better  preserve  the  form  of  fruit 
many  place  it  in  the  cans  raw,  cover  with  a hot  syrup  and  cook  by 
jfiacing  in  a boiler  of  water.  The  same  object  is  attained  by  first 
steaming  the  fruit,  and  when  done  carefully  removing  to  the  boiling 
syrup  a moment  or  two,  then  place  in  cans  when  steamed  tender,  or 
place  at  once  in  cans  and  fill  up  with  hot  syrup,  testing  by  pierc- 
ing with  a silver  fork.  The  cold  process  has  also  been  successfully 
tried  by  good  housekeepers,  and  considering  the  amount  of  labor 
saved  is  certainly  worth  an  experiment  by  all.  Recipes  are  given 
for  each  method.  To  clarify  sugar  for  canning  break  a pound  of 
loaf  sugar  in  small  pieces,  put  on  the  stove  in  porcelain-lined  or 
granite  ironware  vessel  with  half  pint  water  and  well-whisked  white 
of  one  egg.  Have  a cup  of  cold  water  ready  and  throw  in  a little 
when  the  sugar  begins  to  rise,  skim  and  let  rise  thus  three  times, 


CANNING  FRUITS. 


149 


skiiuming  until  clear,  then  strain  through  a flannel  bag  and  when 
cool  bottle  for  use.  Scientists  claim  that  cane  sugar  when  added  to 
boiling  fruit  is  converted  to  grape  sugar  which  has  far  less  sweeten- 
ing power  than  cane  sugar,  and  advise  housekeepers  to  sweeten 
fruits  when  brought  to  table  for  consumption  instead  of  before  can- 
ning. When  dissolving  sugar  for  syrup  it  should  he  stirred  con- 
stantly to  prevent  scorching.  A good  proportion  for  syrup  for  can- 
ning is  one  pint  sugar  to  one  quart  water,  which  is  enough  for  a two- 
quart  can  of  fruit. 

The  flavor  of  canned  peaches  is  improved  by  adding  two  or 
three  whole  peaches  or  dropping  in  the  center  of  each  can  a few  of 
the  stones.  Many  leave  the  stone  attached  to  one  half,  and  others 
( ook  a number  of  stones  with  the  fruit,  then  blanch  as  almonds  and 
]i  ut  meats  in  the  cans.  Peaches  are  sometimes  canned  whole,  and 
tlie  clingstone  varieties  are  of  course  always  put  up  in  this  way. 
Before  peeling  with  a knife  it  is  well  to  rub  the  fuzz  off  peaches  with 
a coarse  towel.  Many  parboil  quinces  before  peeling.  In  preparing 
g ?apes  it  is  better  not  to  press  the  skins  too  closely,  to  avoid  the 
formation  of  the  disagreeable  small  particles,  or  what  are  called 
“ clinkers,’^  in  the  canned  fruit.  As  the  acid  is  not  fully  developed 
until  the  fruit  is  thoroughly  ripened  this  may  be  avoided  also  by 
canning  before  fully  ripe.  Currants  are  nice  mixed  Avith  an  equal 
weight  of  raspberries,  and  pears  are  improA^ed  by  adding  quinces  or 
lemon  peel.  Equal  quantities  of  quince  and  apple  canned  together 
will  taste  as  if  quince  entirely.  For  ordinary  family  use  quart  cans 
are  better  for  peaches  and  the  larger  fruits,  tAVO-quart  cans  for  toma- 
toes and  other  vegetables,  and  pint  cans  for  berries.  StraAvberries 
keep  their  color  best  in  stone  jars;  if  glass  cans  are  used  for  them 
they  should  be  buried  in  sand.  If  syrup  is  left  after  canning  ber- 
ries it  may  while  ‘thin  be  flavored  Avith  Aunegar,  boiled  a moment  and 
then  bottled  and  corked  for  a drink  mixed  Avith  ice-water ; or  add 
the  proportion  of  sugar  given  in  recipes  for  jellies,  alloAving  for  the 
sugar  used  in  canning,  and  make  into  jelly.  All  skimmings  from 
fruits  can  be  added  to  the  vinegar  barrel. 

If  tin  cans  Avhich  are  closed  Avith  resin  or  soldering  are  used, 
great  care  should  be  taken  that  none  drops  into  the  can,  as  a single 
drop  of  resin  Avill  often  make  the  whole  can  bitter.  By  covering 
first  AAuth  a piece  of  cloth  or  Avhite  paper  cut  to  fit  the  top,  this  will 
be  avoided,  and  wetting  this  Avith  brandy  or  alcohol  tends  to  help 


150 


CANNING  FRUITS. 


preserve  the  fruit*  On  opening  tin  cans  remember  to  pour  all  the 
fruit  into  an  earthen  or  glass  dish.  If  any  part  is  not  used  at  the 
time,  recook  and  return  to  dish,  and  it  will  keep  for  a day  or  two, 
many  of  the  less  perishable  fruits  longer.  Or  if  put  up  in  self-seal- 
ing glass  cans  the  fruit  or  vegetables  left  over  will  keep  a day  or  two 
by  simply  returning  to  the  cans,  screwing  on  the  cover  and  setting 
in  refrigerator.  Wines,  cider,  shrubs,  etc.,  must  be  bottled,  well 
corked,  sealed,  and  the  bottles  placed  on  their  sides  in  a box  of  sand 
or  sawdust.  To  can  maple  syrup,  pour  hot  into  cans  or  jugs  and 
seal  well.  Quinces,  pears,  citrons,  watermelon  rinds  and  some  of 
the  smaller  fruits,  such  as  plums,  cherries,  currants,  etc.,,  harden 
when  put  at  first  into  a syrup  of  their  own  weight  of  sugar.  These 
should  first  be  boiled  tender  in  water,  or  in  a very  weak  syrup,  and 
the  rest  of  the  sugar  added  afterward.  Fruits  which  become  soft  too 
readily  and  fall  to  pieces  may  be  hardened  a little  by  pouring  the 
hot  syrup  over  the  fruit,  or  strewing  part  of  the  sugar  over  it  and 
letting  it  stand  awhile  to  draw  out  the  juice ; or  it  may  be  skimmed 
out  of  the  syrup  after  cooking  a few  minutes,  placed  in  the  sun  two 
or  three  hours,  and  the  boiling  syrup  poured  over  it  afterward.  Aa 
many  recipes  for  canning  give  proportions  in  pounds,  the  table  of 
weights  and  measures  in  back  part  of  book  will  be  found  a conven- 
ient reference  when  scales  are  not  at  hand.  A bushel  of  peaches 
makes  about  twelve  or  thirteen  quarts,  and  pears  almost  twice  as 
many  as  peaches;  a bushel  of  either  blackberries,  blueberries  or 
raspberries  makes  about  nineteen  quarts,  and  strawberries  about 
sixteen  or  seventeen.  The  above  estimates  are  given  from  tests,  but 
no  really  definite  rule  can  be  given,  as  some  use  more  or  less  syrup 
in  canning,  and  a great  deal  depends  upon  the  ripeness  of  fruits.  In 
opening  a can  without  the  can-tightener,  as  that  answers  for  opening 
self-sealers  if  hard  to  open,  insert  the  point  of  a thin-bladed  pen- 
knife or  other  instrument  beneath  the  rubber  and  push  it  in  towards 
the  neck,  which  lets  in  the  air,  and  the  top  can  then  be  readily  un- 
screwed. When  not  in  use  the  rubber  rings  may  be  left  in,  not  on, 
cans,  but  the  tops  should  not  he  screwed  on^  as  the  cans  will  become 
musty  if  kept  closed.  Keep  the  covers  (best  place  also  for  rubbers) 
in  a box  or  basket  near  the  cans.  Those  who  use  tin  cans  advise 
throwing  them  away  after  the  second  year,  as  the  fruit  acids  dam- 
age the  tin.  All  cans,  jars  or  bottles,  should  be  carefully  washed 
as  soon  as  emptied,  taking  care  that  the  stoppers  and  covers 


CANNING  FRUITS. 


151 


have  their  share  of  attention.  It  is  well  to  put  soda  or  ammonia 
into  the.  jars  or  bottles,  fill  np  with  water, 
and  let  stand  an  hour,  putting  the  stoppers 
or  covers  into  a bowl  to  soak  in  the  same 
way.  Then  pour  out  and  scald  nicely,  but 
not  with  boiling  water,  as  that  cracks  the 
polished  surface  inside ; wipe  dry,  set  in 
the  sun  or  wind  to  air,  and  then  set  away 
carefully.  It  is  often  difficult  to  remove 
the  tops  of  glass  jars  when  screwed  on,  on 
account  of  the  slippery  nature  of  the  glass.  The  holder  represented 
in  the  cut  will  be  understood  at  a glance.  It  clasps  and  holds  the 
jar  without  danger  of  breaking  it. 

The  following  table  gives  the  time  required  for  cooking  and  the 
quantity  of  sugar  to  the  quart  for  the  various  kinds  of  fruit.  By 
observing  these  rules  and  the  general  directions  given  above  any 
fruit  may  be  successfully  canned.  However,  for  convenience,  a 
number  of  valuable  recipes  are  appended. 


Bartlett  pears,  halved. . . 

Time  for 
b iling 
fruit. 

Quant, 
sugar 
to  qt. 

6 oz 

Quinces,  sliced 

Time  for 
boiling 
fruit. 

Quant, 
sugar 
to  qt. 
10  oz. 

Blackberries 

...  6 “ 

6 “ 

Raspberries 

..  6 “ 

4 “ 

Blueberrries 

...  5 “ 

5 “ 

Ripe  Currants 

..  6 “ 

8 “ 

Cherries 

...  5 “ 

6 “ 

Siberian  crab-apples 

..  25  “ 

8 “ 

Gooseberries 

...  8 “ 

8 “ 

Small  sour  pears,  whole.. 

..80  “ 

8 “ 

Peaches 

...  8 “ 

4 “ 

Sour  apples,  quartered. . . 

..10  •* 

6 “ 

Peaches,  whole 

. ..  15  “ 

4 “ 

Strawberries 

..8  “ 

8 “ 

Pie-plant,  sliced 

...10  “ 

8 “ 

Tomatoes  

..  30  “ 

none. 

Pine-apples,  sliced 

...15  “ 

6 “ 

Whortleberries 

..5  “ 

5 “ 

Piums 

...10  “ 

10  “ 

Wild  Grapes 

..10  “ 

8 “ 

A quart  of  stemmed  currants  or  berries  by  measure  weighs  one 
and  a quarter  pounds. 


Canned  Berries. — Select  those  the  skins  of  which  have  not 
been  broken,  or  the  juice  will  darken  the  syrup ; fill  cans  compactly, 
set  in  kettle  of  cold  water  with  a cloth  beneath  them,  over  an  even 
heat ; when  sufficiently  heated  pour  over  the  berries  a syrup  of  white 
sugar  dissolved  in  boiling  water,  cover  the  cans  closely  to  retain  heat 
on  the  top  berries.  To  insure  full  cans  when  cold,  have  extra  cans 
of  berries  heated  in  like  manner  t6  supply  the  shrinkage.  If  the 
fruit  swims  pour  off  surplus  syrup,  fill  with  hot  fruit,  and  seal  up  as 
soon  as  fruit  on  top  is  thoroughly  scalded.  In  using  this  or  any  of 
the  following  recipes  refer  to  the  preface  above  for  general  directions. 

Canned  Berries. — Pick  out  stems  or  hulls  if  any — if  gathered 
carefully  the  berries  will  not  need  washing,  put  in  porcelain  kettle 
on  stove,  adding  a scant  cup  water  to  prevent  burning  at  first. 


152 


CANNED  FRUITS. 


When  they  come  to  a boil,  skim  well,  take  off  all  surplus  juice,  keep- 
ing it  for  jelly,  add  sugar  to  taste  (for  pies  it  may  be  omitted),  or  a 
half  pound  sugar  to  each  pound  fruit,  let  boil 
five  minutes,  fill  in  glass,  stone,  or  tin  cans, 
using  a small  strainer  for  dipping  berries  so 
that  the  quantity  of  juice  put  up  may  be  reg- 
ulated, filling  in  the  juice  with  dipper.  The 
strainer  if  of  size  to  fit  in  cans  may  be  set  into  them  and  syrup 
poured  through  instead  of  using  the  cheesecloth  strainer  described.- 
Seal  with  putty  unless  self-sealers  are  used.  This  rule  applies  to 
all  berries  and  small  fruits. 

Canned  Blacl^herries.  (Without  water.) — Place  fruit  in  preserv- 
ing kettle,  sweeten  as  for  eating,  or  add  sugar  according  to  above 
table,  let  stand  on  back  of  stove  until  dissolved,  then  draw  gradu- 
ally to  the  front,  keep  at  boiling  point  long  enough  to  thoroughly 
cook  the  fruit,  skimming  well,  and  can  as  previously  directed.  All 
berries  may  be  put  up  in  this  way,  blueberries  requiring  less  sugar 
than  other  varieties,  and  some  can  Peaehes  and  Pears  thus. 

Canned  Cherries. — Boil  moderately  five  minutes  the  propon 
tion  of  six  ounces  sugar  to  each  quart  stoned  cherries ; or  make  a 
syrup  of  one  pint  water  and  three  pounds  sugar,  add  cherries  and 
cook  as  above.  Can  as  in  general  directions. 

Canned  Cr ah- Apples. — To  each  pound  fruit  allow  half  pound 
sugar,  and  a pint  water  to  three  pounds  sugar.  When  the  syrup  is 
boiling  hot  drop  in  the  apples.  They  will  cook  very  quickly.  Or 
better,  steam  till  tender,  place  in  syrup  a moment,  then  fill  cans  with 
fruit  and  fill  up  with  syrup. 

Canned  Currants. — Look  them  over  carefully,  stem  and  weigh, 
allov/ing  a pound  sugar  to  every  one  of  fruit ; put  in  kettle,  cover, 
a)id  leave  to  heat  slowly  and  stew  gently  for  twenty  or  thirty  min- 
utes, then  add  the  sugar,  and  shake  the  kettle  occasionally  to  make 
it  mix  with  the  fruit ; do  not  allow  it  to  boil,  but  keep  as  hot  as  pos- 
sible until  the  sugar  is  dissolved,  then  pour  it  in  cans  and  secure  the 
covers  at  once.  White  currants  are  beautiful  preserved  in  this  way. 

Canned  Gooseberries. — Cut  off  tops  and  stems  and  cook  the 
berries  in  water  until  white,  but  not  enough  to  break  them ; put  into 
cans  with  as  little  water  as  possible,  fill  up  the  can  with  boiling 
water  and  seal ; when  opened  pour  off  water  and  cook  like  fresh 
berries.  Or  put  berries  into  wide-mouthed  bottles,  cork  or  put  on 
covers,  and  set  in  vessel  of  cold  water  on  the  stove  until  it  boils.  Do 
not  boil  long  enough  to  break  the  berries.  Take  usual  precautions 
in  sealing.  Will  keep  a year  in  a dry  place. 

Canned  Gooseberries. — Prepare  and  place  in  a large  pan,  pour 
boiling  water  over  them,  let  stand  until  cold;  fill  jars  as  full  as  you 


Handle  Strainer. 


CANNED  FRUITS. 


153 


can,  pour  boiling  water  over  them,  be  sure  it  covers  the  berries,  then 
seal.  You  will  find  berries  as  solid  as  when  first  gathered. 

Canned  Grapes. — Pick  grapes  off  stems,  wash  in  cold  water 
and  squeeze  the  pulps  into  an  earthen  dish  or  preserving  kettle, 
throwing  skins  into  another.  Boil  skins  with  a very  little  water 
until  tender,  and  pulps  until  seeds  separate,  then  strain  through  a 
colander  (to  remove  seeds)  into  dish  with  the  skins.  Add  sugar  to 
taste,  or  half  as  much  sugar  as  fruit,  stew  and  can  as  other  fruits. 
To  can  Green  Grapes  halve  them,  extract  the  seeds  with  a small 
knife,  sweeten,  cook  as  above,  and  can. 

Canned  Peaches.  (With  vinegar.) — Pour  boiling  water  over  one 
peck  of  large  clingstone  peaches  to  remove  the  fuzz ; make  a syrup 
of  three  pounds  sugar  and  one  pint  vinegar,  using  a little  water  if 
required  to  cover  the  peaches ; cook  until  pretty  soft,  and  can  as 
usual. 

Canned  Peaches. — Have  one  porcelain  kettle  with  boiling  water 
and  another  with  a syrup  made  sweet  enough  with  white  sugar  for 
the  peaches,  well  skimmed,  or  clarified  according  to  directions  in 
preface ; pare,  halve,  and  drop  the  peaches  into  the  boiling  water,  let 
remain  until  a silver  fork  will  pierce  them,  lift  them  out  with  a wire 
spoon,  fill  can,  pour  in  all  the  boiling  syrup  the  can  will  hold,  and 
seal  immediately.  Continue  in  this  way,  preparing  and  sealing  only 
one  can  at  a time,  until  done.  Or,  rich  proportions  for  the  same 
recipe  are  seven  pounds  sugar  and  seven  gills  boiling  water  for  the 
syrup,  sweetening  the  water  in  which  peaches  are  cooked,  using  two 
pounds  sugar  to  three  quarts  water.  Boil  down  the  water  in  the 
first  kettle  vdth  the  syrup  if  any  is  left ; if  not,  add  more  sugar  and 
quite  a nice  marmalade  will  result.  This  manner  of  canning  peaches 
has  been  thoroughly  tested,  and  is  pronounced  by  the  experienced 
the  best  of  all  methods. 

Canned  Peaches. — When  wanted  extra  nice  for  prize  competi- 
tion, or  for  use  on  state  occasions,”  select  with  great  care  fruit  of 
uniform  size  and  shape  and  all  perfect.  Peel  with  a thin  sharp  sil- 
ver fruit  knife,  which  does  not  discolor,  dropping  as  soon  as  pared 
into  an  earthen  vessel  of  water  to  prevent  the  air  from  darkening 
them.  As  soon  as  fruit  enough  for  one  can  is  pared  put  up  by  lay- 
ing piece  by  piece  in  the  can,  turning  the  inside  of  halves  from 
which  stones  were  removed,  outward,  which  gives  a handsome  ap- 
pearance, and  fill  up  with  syrup  as  clear  as  crystal,  placing  the 
cheese-cloth  strainer  over  the  filler.  Screw  on  covers  without  the 
rubbers,  stand  cans  in  wash-boiler  on  slab  or  a board  perforated  with 
holes,  or  a folded  towel  with  a towel  between  them  (some  use  straw 
or  hsy),  fill  up  with  cold  water  to  within  two  or  three  inches  of  top 
of  cans,  gradually  bring  to  a boil  and  boil  fifteen  minutes.  Draw  to 
back  of  stove  to  let  steam  pass  off,  roll  the  hand  in  a towel,  lift  cans 


154 


CANNED  FRUITS. 


out  and  place  on  hot  platter.  Take  off  covers  and  let  out  air  bubbles 
with  a knife,  as  directed  in  preface.  The  fruit  will  settle  some  and 
the  contents  of  one  or  two  cans  will  be  needed  to  fill  up  the  others ; 
prepare  for  this  purpose  nearly  a fourth  more  cans.  Fill  up,  put  on 
rubbers,  seal  and  put  away  according  to  previous  directions.  The 
same  process  may  be  used  for  canning  all  kinds  of  fruit. 

Canned  Peaches. — Prepare  peaches  and  weigh  out  half  a pound 
best  loaf  sugar  to  each  pound  fruit.  Sprinkle  a little  sugar  in  a deep 
earthen  bowl,  put  in  a layer  of  peaches,  then  one  of  sugar,  and  so 
alternate  until  closely  packed,  covering  top  with  sugar;  cover 
lightly  and  let  stand  ten  or  twelve  hours.  Drain  juice  off  into  pre- 
serving kettle,  let  come  to  a boil,  put  in  peaches,  and  as  fast  as 
pieces  swell  sufficiently  take  out  with  silver  fork  and  place  in  air- 
tight glass  jar.  When  filled  pour  the  Doiling  syrup  over,  filling  to 
top  and  seal  at  once.  Peaches  and  other  fruits  prepared  in  this  way 
have  been  kept  three  or  four  years. 

Canned  Peaches.  (Cold) — Pare  and  halve  peaches  and  pack 
closely  as  possible  in  cans  without  sugar,  and  pour  in  enough  cold 
water  to  fill  to  brim.  Let  stand  long  enough  for  water  to  soak  into 
all  crevices — six  hours  or  so — then  let  out  air  bubbles  with  a silver 
knife,  fill  up  again  with  cold  water  and  seal.  Canned  thus,  peaches 
retail  all  their  freshness  and  flavor.  A cold  syrup  may  be  used 
instead  of  water  if  preferred,  but  peaches  taste  most  natural  without 
sweetening.  Can  pears  same  way. 

Canned  Peaches.  (Steamed.) — After  peeling,  seed  and  place  in 
a steamer  over  a kettle  of  boiling  water,  first  laying  a cloth  in  bot- 
tom of  steamer ; fill  about  half  full  of  fruit,  cover  tightly,  make  a 
syrup  in  a porcelain  kettle  for  fruit  alone,  let  the  fruit  steam  until  it 
can  be  easily  pierced  with  a silver  fork,  drop  gently  for  a moment 
into  the  hot  syrup,  place  in  the  cans,  fill,  cover,  and  seal.  The  above 
recipe  is  for  canning  a few  at  a time.  This  recipe,  applies  equally 
well  to  pears. 

Canned  Peaches. — Pare,  halve  and  seed ; make  a syrup  of  a 
pint  granulated  sugar  to  a quart  water  (enough  for  two  quart-cans) 
place  on  stove  in  porcelain  kettle  and  when  syrup  boils,  skim,  and 
drop  in  enough  fruit  (two  quarts  halved  peaches)  for  a one-quart 
can ; watch  closely,  test  and  can  as  in  general  directions.  Add  more 
peaches  to  the  hot  syrup  for  next  can,  and  repeat  the  operation.  If 
there  are  more  peaches  than  will  fill  the  can,  place  them  in  another 
can  and  keep  hot  until  more  are  ready,  and  so  on  until  allare  canned. 
Apples  may  be  canned  in  the  same  manner. 

Canned  Pears. — Prepare  and  can  precisely  like  peaches  in  pre- 
ceding recipes  except  that  they  require  longer  cooking.  When  done 
they  are  easily  pierced  with  a silver  fork.  Some  add  a half  pint 
peeled  and  quartered  quinces  to  every  two  quarts  halved  pears ; cook 


CANNED  FRUITS. 


155 


quinces  fifteen  minutes  before  adding  pears.  More  quinces  may  be 
added,  but  the  above  is  an  excellent  proportion  for  Pears  With 
Quinces. 

Canned  Pie  Plant. — Cut  pie  plant  in  pieces  two  inches  long, 
put  over  a slow  fire  with  its  weight  in  sugar ; when  sugar  is  dis- 
solved let  boil  slowly  until  clear,  but  do  not  cook  long  enough  to 
become  dark  colored.  Put  up  in  air-tight  cans. 

Canned  Pie  Plant.  (Cold) — Skin  and  cut  as  for  pie,  fill 
glass  cans  full  as  possible,  shaking  down  while  packing,  then  fill  up 
with  pure  fresh  cold  water,  let  stand  a little  while  and  expel  the  air, 
add  more  water,  then  screw  on  covers.  No  cooking  or  heating.  Will 
keep  perfectly.,  and  fruit  will  be  as  nice  and  fresh  when  opened  as  if 
just  brought  from  garden. 

Canned  Pine-apple. — Peel  and  slice,  or  pick  to  pieces  with 
silver  fork,  make  syrup  in  proportion  of  three-fourths  pound 
best  white  granulated  sugar  and  one  cup  water  to  each  pound  fruit, 
boil  five  minutes,  skim  or  strain,  add  the  fruit  and  let  it  boil  (cook- 
ing long  discolors  it) ; have  can  hot,  fill  and  seal  up  as  soon  as  pos- 
srble.  Or,  peel  and  grate  on  coarse  grater,  rejecting  cores  ; using 
above  proportions,  put  in  an  earthen  vessel  sprinkled  with  sugar, 
first  a layer  of  fruit,  then  a layer  of  sugar,  thus  alternating  until  all 
is  used.  Cover,  let  stand  overnight,  and  in  the  morning  bring  to  a 
boil,  boil  one  minute  and  can  immediately. 

Canned  Pine-apple. — Pare  and  be  careful  to  cut  out  the  eyes, 
chop  fine,  weigh,  and  add  to  it  same  weight  of  sugar ; mix  thor- 
oughly, let  stand  twenty-four  hours  and  (without  cooking)  fill  cans 
full  and  seal  tight.  Look  at  them  in  about  two  weeks,  and  if  there 
are  signs  of  working,  pour  into  a kettle,  heat  through  and  put  back 
into  cans. 

Canned  Plums. — Wash  and  put  whole  into  a syrup  made  in 
the  proportion  of  a pint  Avater-  and  a pound  sugar  to  every  two 
pounds  fruit ; boil  eight  minutes,  can,  and  seal  immediately.  If 
pricked  A\dth  a fork  before  placing  in  syrup  they  Avill  be  less  liable 
to  burst.  Cherries,  damsons,  and  green  gages  are  canned  in  same 
Avay.  The  large  AA^hite  plums  must  be  skinned  by  using  the  dipping 
process  as  for  peaches. 

Gomned  Plums. — Wipe  good  sound  fruit  with  a cloth  and  place 
carefully  in  cans ; pour  boiling  hot  water  over  them  and  seal  Avhile 
hot.  Grapes  put  up  in  same  Avay  are  nice  for  pies. 

Canned.  Quinces. — Pare  and  quarter  the  fruit,  and  take  out  all 
the  cores  and  the  hard  place  around  them.  Boil  the  fruit  in  clear 
water  until  tender,  then  spread  on  toAAnls  to  dry.  For  one  pound 
fruit  alloAv  half  pound  sugar  and  one  pint  Avater  for  three  pounds 
sugar.  When  syrup  is  boiling  hot  put  in  fruit,  and  let  it  cook  very 


156 


CANNED  FRUITS. 


slowly ; or,  set  back  on  the  stove  so  that  it  hardly  cooks  at  all,  and 
keep  on  for  an  hour  or  more,  if  you  can  without  its  cooking  to 
pieces — as  the  longer  it  cooks,  the  brighter  red  color  it  will  be.  Put 
it  in  jars,  and  strain  the  syrup  over  it,  as  with  other  fruits.  Can  ap^ 
pies  or  pears  at  same  time  and  add  to  them  when  first  put  on  a half 
pint  quinces  (and  juice)  cooked  in  syrup  as  above  half  an  hour. 

Canned  Strawherries. — Fill  glass  cans  with  fresh,  whole  straw- 
berries, alternating  layers  of  berries  and  sugar,  in  the  proportion  of 
half  pound  sugar  to  pound  berries  ; lay  covers  on  lightly,  stand  in 
wash-boiler  and  proceed  as  in  third  recipe  for  peaches.  Great  care 
must  be  taken  to  keep  the  berries  whole  and  round ; as  the  cans  cool 
invert  them  occasionally  to  prevent  the  fruit  from  forming  in  a mass 
at  one  end.  Damsons  may  be  put  up  in  same  way,  cooking  until 
soft  but  not  broken.  Strawberries  are  very  nice  put  up  as  peaches 
in  fourth  recipe. 

Canned  Strawberries. — For  every  quart  fresh  strawberries  take . 
one  coffee-cup  white  sugar,  add  a tablespoon  or  two  of  water  if  there 
is  no  juice  in  the  bottom,  to  prevent  burning  before  the  heat  brings 
out  the  juice  ; as  soon  as  fruit  boils  add  the  sugar,  and  stir  gently 
for  a few  minutes  until  it  boils  up  again,  and  can  immediately.  Or 
make  a syrup  of  one  pound  sugar  and  as  little  water  as  possible,  add 
three  pounds  berries  and  cook  slowly  for  twenty  minutes.  The 
color  and  flavor  of  the  strawberries  depend  upon  gentle  cooking. 
Cherries  and  Gooseberries  are  nice  canned  same  way.  It  is  better 
not  to  cook  any  more  fruit  than  can  be  put  into  one  glass  fruit-jar. 
Usually  a few  spoonfuls  syrup  will  be  left  with  which  to  begin  the 
next  can.  Another  method  is  to  stem  the  largest,  finest  ber- 
ries obtainable,  put  into  cans,  giving  them  a shake  occasionally 
while  filling  to  settle  them,  and  fill  in  with  a rich  syrup,  using  only 
just  enough  water  to  dissolve  sugar,  first  boiling  it  ten  minutes,  then 
seal.  Strawberries  are  considered  difficult  to  keep,  but  there  need 
be  no  trouble  if  the  fruit  is  fresh,  closed  air-tight  in  glass,  and  kept 
as  directed  in  general  directions  for  canning  fruits. 

Canned  Strawberries. — Put  four  pounds  white  sugar  in  a ket- 
tle, add  a cup  cold  water,  let  boil  till  perfectly  clear,  then  add  four 
quarts  nice  berries.  Boil  ten  minutes,  keeping  them  covered  with 
syrup,  but  avoid  stirring  in  order  to  preserve  their  good  appearance. 
Take  out  berries  with  a small  strainer  or  skimmer,  place  in  cans,  fill- 
ing about  three-quarters  full,  and  let  the  syrup  boil  ten  minutes 
longer,  and  fill  each  can  with  it.  Let  stand  till  cool,  then  cover  with 
a tablespoon  brandy  (take  out  a little  juice  if  necessary),  screw  on 
the  lid  and  put  in  a dry,  dark  place.  This  method  is  claimed  to  be 
the  only  means  of  preserving  the  peculiar  flavor  of  the  strawberries. 
If  after  two  or  three  weeks  the  least  fermentation  appears,  put  the 
cans  in  a boiler  (on  a small  board  to  prevent  contact  with  bottom), 
fill  with  cold  water  nearly  to  top  of  cans,  loosen  the  lids,  but  do  not 


CANNED  VEGETABLES. 


151 


take  them  off,  let  water  boil  for  a little  while,  then  take  out  cans, 
tighten  the  covers  and  the  berries  will  keep  over  a year.  Fully  ripe 
currants  and  acid  cherries  canned  in  same  manner,  one  pound  of 
sugar  to  one  of  dressed  fruit,  are  delicious.  They  never  need  a sec- 
ond boiling  if  carefully  prepared. 

Canned  Watermelon. — Cut  rind  of  ripe  melons  (first  cutting 
off  all  green  parts)  into  small  pieces  two  or  three  inches  long,  and 
boil  in  water  until  tender  enough  to  pierce  with  fork ; have  a syrup 
made  of  white  sugar,  allowing  half  pound  sugar  to  pound  fruit; 
skim  out  melon  and  place  in  syrup  together  with  a few  pieces  race 
ginger,  let  cook  a few  minutes,  put  in  cans  and  seal  as  in  general 
directions. 


Oanning  V egetables. 


All  vegetables  intended  for  canning  should  be  perfectly  fresh-- 
especially  is  this  true  of  corn — and  of  the  best  quality.  To  prepaie 
corn,  cut  with  a sharp  knife  through  the  center  of  every  row  of 
grains,  and  cut  off  the  outer  edge ; then  with  the  back  of  the  blade 
push  out  the  yellow  eye,  with  the  rich,  creamy  center  of  the  grain, 
leaving  the  hull  on  the  cob.  Or,  simply  cut  off  with  a knife,  being 
careful  not  to  cut  too  close  to  the  cob,  and  scrape  down  the  cob 
with  the  back  of  the  knife  to  get  all  the  rich  milk.  Remove  the 
skins  from  tomatoes  in  the  usual  way,  by  covering  with  boiling  hot 
water,  but  do  not  let  them  stand  in  the  water  but  a moment  or  two 
or  they  will  be  softened  more  or  less,  and  if  to  be  canned  whob 
their  shape  Avill  he  injured.  A bushel  of  tomatoes  makes  about 
twenty  quarts.  Peas  and  beans  should  be  shelled  just  before  can- 
ning. String-beans  are  prepared  as  for  ordinary  cooking.  The  very 
complete  directions  given  in  “Canning  Fruit”  preface  for  preparing, 
filling,  sealing  and  putting  away  cans  should  be  consulted  and  fol- 
lowed in  canning  vegetables.  Especial  care  should  be  taken  to  ex- 
clude the  light  from  tomatoes,  as  it  causes  the  formation  of  citric 
acid,  which  no  amount  of  sugar  will  sweeten.  For  this  reason  many 
prefer  earthen  or  tin  cans  for  tomatoes,  hut  tliey  can  be  put  up  suc- 
cessfully in  glass,  when  they  should  be  buried  in  sand  or  oats ; oi 
simply  wrapped  in  paper  and  set  away  in  a box  or  cupboard  in  a. 


158 


CANNED  VEGETABLES. 


dry,  cool  cellar  they  keep  perfectly.  When  put  up  in  tin  all  vegeta- 
bles must  be  turned  out  as  soon  as  the  can  is  opened.  If  the  whole 
is  not  used  the  remainder  may  he  kept  a day  or  two  by  salting 
slightly  and  placing  in  refrigeraxor.  If  put  up  in  glass  set  away  in 
can. 


Canned  Beans. — Take  Lima,  butter  or  caseknife  beans,  cook  as 
for  the  table,  boiling  one  hour ; season  with  pepper  and  salt  and  fill 
jars  quite  full,  seal  carefully  as  directed,  and  they  will  keep  the 
year  round,. 

Canned  Corn. — Dissolve  an  ounce  tartaric  acid  in  half  cup  water 
and  take  one  tablespoon  to  two  quarts  sweet  corn.;  cook,  and  while 
boiling  fill  the  cans.  AVhen  used  turn  into  a colander,  rinse  with 
cold  water,  add  a little  soda  and  sugar  while  cooking,  and  season 
with  butter,  pepper  and  salt. 

Canned  Corn.—QvX  sweet  corn  from  cob,  put  a handful  or  two 
into  the  can,  then  a pinch  of  salt,  also  a pinch  of  sugar ; take  a 
polato  masher  or  anything  else  convenient  that  will  go  in  the  can, 
and  press  corn  down  as  close  as  possible,  then  repeat  putting  in 
corn,  salt  and  sugar  as  before  until  the  can  is  full ; seal  up  and  set 
away  with  other  fruit.  Be  sure  and  not  put  in  any  more  salt  than 
is  required  for  seasoning  when  cooked.  To  cook  it,  simply  turn  from 
the  bottle  and  cook  as  you  would  fresh  corn.  Or  cut  the  corn  from 
cob,  pack  in  glass  cans,  pound  the  corn  as  hard  as  possible  without 
breaking  cans  ; screw  on  top  but  not  tight.  Put  on  boiler  with  cold 
water  and  proceed  as  in  third  recipe  for  peaches.  After  putting  on 
rubbers,  screw  tight,  put  back  into  the  water,  set  the  boiler  off  the 
stove  ; let  the  cans  stand  till  morning,  take  out,  tighten  the  covers, 
and  Ivec])  in  a dark  place.  Can  Pea^s  and  Beans  same  way. 

Canned  Corn. — Pick  sweet  corn  when  milk-ripe,or  if  bought,nave 
as  fresh  as  possible  ; cut  from  the  cob  and  scrape  to  get  the  juice, 
fill  tin  cans  and  seal  air-tight,  surround  with  straw  to  prevent  strik- 
ing against  each  other,  and  put  into  a boiler  over  the  fire  with 
enough  cold  water  to  cover.  Heat  the  water  gradually  and  when 
they  have  boiled  an  hour  and  a half,  puncture  the  tops  of  the  cans 
to  allow  the  escape  of  gasses,  then  seal  them  immediately  while  they 
are  still  hr^t.  Continue  to  boil  them  for  two  hours  and  a half.  In 
packing  the  cut  corn  in  the  can  the  liberated  milk  and  juices  sur- 
round the  kernels,  forming  a liquid  in  which  they  are  cooked.  Peas 
and  Beans  are  canned  same  way. 

Canned  Corn  and  Tomatoes. — Scald, peel  and  slice  tomatoes,  (not 
too  ripc'^  m the  proportion  of  two-thirds  tomatoes  to  one-third  corn ; 
put  on  in  a porcelain  kettle,  let  boil  hiilf  an  hour,  and  can  immedi- 


CANNED  VEGETABLES. 


159 


ately  in  tin  or  glass  (if  glass  keep  in  the  dark).  Some  take  equal 
parts  of  corn  and  tomatoes,  preparing  them  as  above.  Others,  after 
cutting  the  corn  from  the  cob,  cook  half  an  hour  in  custard  kettle ; 
prepare  the  tomatoes  as  above,  cooking  in  a separate  kettle  twenty 
minutes,  adding  the  corn  in  the  proportion  of  one-third  corn  to  two- 
thirds  tomatoes,  mixing  well  until  they  boil  up  once ; then  can  as 
in  general  directions. 

Canned  Pumpkin. — Peel,  scrape  the  pulp  and  seeds,  cut  in 
small  pieces,  put  in  a close-fitting  steamer  and  steam  two  hours ; 
then  put  in  a kettle ; to  every  quart  add  two  ounces  sugar,  boil  five 
minutes  and  can.  Or,  after  peeling  and  removing  seeds  cut  into 
pieces  three  or  four  inches  square,  stand  in  oven  on  the  rind  and 
bake  until  done,  when  it  will  peel  out  of  the  shell  easily.  Then 
mash  and  can  while  hot,  sealing  as  fruit.  Cannot  be  told  from 
fresh. 

Canned  String- Beans. — String  fresh  string-beans,  break  in  sev- 
eral pieces,  cook  in  boiling  water  ten  minutes,  and  can  like  tomatoes. 

Canned  Snccotash. — Cook  Lima  beans  and  corn  as  for  eating  in 
the  proportion  liked,  either  half  and  half,  or  with  a less  quantity  of 
beans,  and  can. 

Canned  Tomatoes. — The  tomatoes  must  be  entirely  fresh  and 
not  over-ripe ; pour  over  them  boiling  water,  let  stand  a few  minutes, 
drain  off,  remove  the  skins,  and  slice  in  small  pieces  into  a stone 
jar,  cutting  out  all  the  hard  or  defective  portions ; some  add  a little 
salt ; cook  for  half  an  hour,  or  as  for  eating,  in  their  own  juice, 
skimming  off  the  scum  which  rises,  and  stirring  with  a wooden 
spoon  or  paddle ; can  and  seal  as  in  general  directions ; put  up  in 
glass,  wrap  in  paper  and  keep  in  dark  place.  Tin  or  stone  cans  may 
be  used. 

Canned  Tomatoes. — Take  ripe,  round,  firm  tomatoes,  freshly 
gathered  and  not  too  large  to  go  into  the  mouth  of  cans.  Prepare 
only  enough  at  one  time  to  fill  one  or  two  cans  and  drop  them  at 
once  into  the  preserving  kettle  in  which  should  be  ready  some  toma- 
toes cut  fine.  Boil  until  heated  through,  then  put  into  cans,  filling 
up  with  the  cut  tomatoes  in  which  they  were  cooked  and  seal. 

Canned.  Tomatoes. — Skin  tomatoes  as  usual,  place  on  sieve  to 
drain  and  pack  as  solidly  as  possible  in  cans ; then  set  cans  in  boiler 
of  cold  water,  heat  up  and  boil  half  an  hour,  and  fill  and  seal  as  in 
third  recipe  for  peaches. 


160 


CATSUPS  ANU  SAUCES. 


CATSUPS  AISTU  SAUCES. 


Always  select  perfect  fruit;  cook  in  porcelain  or  granite 
iron-ware,  never  in  brass.  In  making  catsup,  instead  of  boil- 
ing, some  sprinkle  the  tomatoes  with  salt  and  let  them 
stand  overnight,  then  strain  and  add  spices,  etc.,  and  a 
kittle  sugar.  Bottle  in  glass  or  stone,  and  never  use  tin 
cans  ; keep  in  a cool,  dry,  dark  place.  If  on 
opening  there  is  a leathery  mold  on  top,  care" 
fully  remove  every  particle  of  it  and  the  catsup 
will  not  be  injured.  To  prevent  this  molding  some  do  not  fill  the 
bottles  quite  to  the  top  with  catsup,  but  fill  up  with  hot  vinegar. 
If  there  are  white  specks  of  mold  all  through  the  catsup  it  is  spoiled, 
[f  on  opening  and  using  a part  there  is  danger  that  the  rest  may 
sour,  scald,  and  if  too  thick  add  vinegar.  Sauces  should  always 
be  made  with  great  care  in  a pan  set  in  hot  water,  having  the  sauce- 
pan bright  and  clean  if  a delicate  flavor  is  desired,  especially  if  the 
jsauce  is  drawn  butter  ; or  the  custard-kettle  will  be  found  conven- 
ient, as  the  stock  or  other  foundation  may  first  be  heated  quickly  by 
putting  the  inner  kettle  on  the  stove,  and  when  other  ingredients  are 
added  and  there  is  danger  of  burning  place  again  in  the  outer  ket- 
tle made  read}^  with  boiling  water.  Butter  and  those  sauces  con- 
taining eggs  should  never  boil.  Wooden  spoons  or  paddles  must 
be  used  for  stirring.  A set  of  pad- 
dles of  different  sizes  will  be  found 
convenient  for  stirring  sauces,  gravies,  spatuw. 

mushes,  and  many  other  dishes,  and  Avill  not  scral-ch  or  mar  the 
kettle  pan.  When  necessary  to  scrape  down  the  sides  of  kettle 


CATSUPS  AND  SAUCES. 


161 


in  which  catsup  or  other  mixtures  of  like  character  are  being  cooked, 
an  artist’s  spatula  will  be  found  the  best  utensil  and  should  be  pro- 
vided in  every  kitchen  rather  than  destroy  the  temper  of  sharpened 
knives  by  heat. 

The  pulp  of  fruits  is  used  for  the  foundation  of  all  catsups  and 
wonderfully  retains  the 
flavor,  notwithstanding 
all  the  ingredients  added. 

Use  a fine  wire  sieve  or 
strainer  in  their  prepara- 
tion — the  extension 


Extension  Strainer. 


strainer  is  the  most  convenient — and  a good  rule  is  to  allow  for  every 
quart  of  the  juicy  pulp  one  pound  sugar,  two  blades  mace,  three  of 
cinnamon,  one  teaspoon  each  whole  cloves  and  pepper  corns ; boil 
all  down  one-third,  then  skim  out  spices,  add  sugar,  boil  till  thick, 
reduce  to  a proper  consistency  with  vinegar,  and  bottle  for  use, 
This  applies  to  cherries,  plums,  grapes,  and  all  kinds  of  berries. 

The  preparation  and  appearance  of  sauces  and  gravies  are  ol 
tire  highest  consequence,  and  in  nothing  does  the  talent  and  taste  ol 
the  cook  more  display  itself.  Their  special  adaptability  to  the  va- 
rious viands  they  are  to  accompany  cannot  be  too  much  studied,  in 
order  that  they  may  harmonize  and  blend  with  them  perfectly,  and 
in  serving  do  not  pour  over  but  around  the  meat.  Sauces  should 
possess  a decided  <Tiaracter,  and  whether  sharp  or  sweet,  savoury  or 
plain,  they  should  carry  out  their  names  in  a distinct  manner,  al- 
though, of  course,  not  so  much  flavored  as  to  make  them  too  piquant 
on  the  one  hand,  or  too  mawkish  on  the  other.  Brown  sauces, 
generally  speaking,  should  scarcely  be  so  thick  as  white  sauces,  and 
it  is  well  to  bear  in  mind  that  when  intended  to  mask  the  various 
dishes  of  j)oultry  or  meat,  they  should  be  of  a sufficient  consistency 
to  slightl}^  adhere  to  the  fowls  or  joints  over  which  they  are  poured. 
For  browning  and  thickening  sauces,  etc.,  browned  flour  may  be 
properly  employed.  The  caramel  coloring  answers  very  well  for 
sauces  and  gravies,  but  when  they  can  be  made  to  look  brown  by 
using  browned  flour,  catsup,  tomatoes,  or  any  color  sauce,  it  is  far 
preferable.  As,  however,  in  cooking  so  much  depends  upon  appear- 
ance, perhaps  it  would  be  as  well  for  the  inexperienced  cook  to  use 
the  caramel.  When  no  browning  is  at  hand  to  heighten  the  color  of 
saucp..  qigsolve  a lump  of  sugar  in  an  iron  spoon  over  a sharp  fire ; 


162 


CATSUPS  AND  SAUCES. 


when  it  is  in  a liquid  state,  drop  it  into  the  sauce  or  gravy  quite  hot. 
Care,  however,  must  be  taken  not  to  put  in  too  much,  as  it  would 
impart  a very  disagreeable  flavor. 

Gravies  and  sauces  should  be  sent  to  table  very  hot,  and  there  is 
all  the  more  necessity  for  the  cook  to  see  to  this  point,  as  from  their 
being  usually  served  in  small  quantities,  they  are  more  liable  to 
cool  quickly  than  if  they  were  in  a larger  body.  The  hahi  marie 
will  be  found  almost  indispensable  for  this  purpose.  This  is  a large 
open  vessel  kept  filled  with  hot  (not  boiling)  water  at  the  back  of 
the  stove  or  range  or  in  some  warm  place.  In  this  several  stew- 
pans,  or  large  tin  cups  with  covers  and  hand- 
les, are  fitted  Avhich  are  intended  to  hold  all 
the  cooked  dishes  that  are  to  be  kept  hot  until 
the  rest  of  the  dinner  is  ready  to  serve.  When 
a dinner  is  delayed,  there  is  no  better  way  of 
keeping  all  dishes  hot,  and  preserving  their 
flavor.  If  a hain  marie  is  not  among  the  cooking  utensils  a large 
dripping-pan  of  hot  Avater  Avill  be  found  a A'^ery  good  substitute,  or 
lay  tAvo  or  three  bricks  on  back  of  stoA^e  or  range  on  Avhich  to  set 
sauces,  A^egetables,  etc.,  until  ready  to  serve. 

Those  sauces  of  Avhich  cream  or  eggs  form  a component  part 
should  be  Avell  stirred  as  soon  as  these  ingredients  are  added  to 
them,  and  must  never  be  alloAved  to  boil,  as  they  Avould  instantly 
curdle.  White  pepper  is  a much  nicer  seasoning  than  black  for 
sauces  and  all  fine  cooking,  as  it  does  not  color  and  has  not  so 
pungent  a flavor.  An  excellent  thickening  for  soups,  sauces  and 
graAues  is  prepared  as  folloAvs  : Bring  butter  just  to  the  boiling 
point  in  a small  steAvpan,  dredge  in  flour,  stirring  together  unt  il 
AA^ell  cooked.  This,  AA^hen  not  cooked  broAvn,  is  “White  Roux,”  and 
AAdien  broAAuied,  “BroAAui  Roux.”  Thin  this  AAuth  a part  of  the  soup, 
sauce  or  gravy,  and  add  it  to  the  Avhole,  stirring  thoroughly.  The 
flour  may  be  broAvned  before  using  if  intended  for  broAvn  graAues  or 
sauces.  A richer  thickening  is  made  in  the  proportion  of  the  yolks 
of  three  eggs  to  eight  tablespoons  milk  or  cream.  Beat  the  yolks, 
add  the  milk  and  strain  through  a fine  sieve.  When  adding  to  the 
sauce  it  must  be  stirred  during  the  Avhole  time  or  the  eggs  aauII  cur- 
dle, and  the  mixture  should  only  just  simmer,  not  boil.  If  sauce  is 
lumpy  after  adding  thickening  rub  agrdn  through  a sieAT.  Melted 
butter  or  American  Cooking  Oil  may  be  used  in  place  of  oil  in  afi 


CATSUPS  AND  SAUCES. 


163 


mr 

Puree  Sieve, 


recipes  in  which  the  latter  is  named.  Sauces  may  also  he  thick- 
ened with  potato  flour,  ground  rice,  baked  flour,  arrowroot,  etc. ; the 
latter  will  be  found  far  preferable  to  ordinary  flour  for  white  sauces. 
Milk  or  water  may  be  used  instead  of  stock  in  sauces,  but  the  latter 
is  better,  giving  a finer  flavor,  though  milk  is  richer.  When  any 
green  coloring  is  used  if  lemon  juice  is  to  he  added  it  should  not  be 
put  in  until  just  before  sending  to  table.  Any  flavored  vinegar  pre- 
ferred may  be  used  instead  of  the  plain.  An  English  salt  sold  by 
most  grocers  is  best  for  seasoning  sauces  and  all  cooking,  giving  a 
more  delicate  flavor,  with  none  of  the  fishy  taste 
found  so  objectionable  in  most  salt.  Where  a 
sieve  is  to  be  used  in  making  sauces,  use  the^ 

])uree  8ieve. 

Herbs  for  seasoning  are  usually  dried  dur- 
ing the  summer.  The  best  kinds  are  sage,  thyme, 
sweet  marjoram,  tarragon,  mint,  sweet  basil,  parsley,  bay  leaves, 
cloves,  mace,  celery  seed  and  onions.  If  the  seed  of  any  of  the  seven 
first  mentioned  is  planted  in  little  boxes  on  the  window  sill,  or  in  a 
sunny  spot  in  the  juircl,  all  needed  can  generally  be  raised.  Gather 
and  dry  as  follows  : Parsley  and  tarragon  should  be  dried  in  June 
and  July,  just  before  flowering;  mint  in  June  and  July;  thyme, 
marjoram  and  savory  in  July  and  August;  basil  and  sage  in  August 
and  September ; all  herbs  should  be  gathered  in  the  sunshine,  and 
dried  by  artificial  heat;  their  flavor  is  best  preserved  by  keeping 
them  in  air-tight  tin  cans,  or  in  tightly-corked  glass  bottles.  Mint, 
when  used  in  recipes,  usually  means  ^^spearmint”  or  “green  mint,” 
though  pennyroyal  and  peppermint  are  of  the  same  family.  The 
young  leaves  of  from  one  to  six  inches  in  length  are  the  parts  used. 
It  grows  on  any  good  garden  soil,  but  comes  forward  earlier  in  a 
warm,  sunny  spot.  It  is  propagated  by  cuttings  or  dividing  the 
roots  of  old  plants  in  the  spring,  is  very  prolific,  and  ought  to  find  a 
place  in  every  garden.  Those  who  have  conservatories  should  keep 
a root  in  pots,  to  use  with  spring  lamb  before  the  leaves  would  ap- 
pear in  the  open  air.  Mint  leaves  for  drying  should  be  cut  from  the 
stalks  just  before  the  plant  blossoms,  and  spread  out  thinly  in  some 
dry,  shady  place,  where  they  can  dry  slowly.  When  dry,  put  up  in 
paper  bags  and  keep  in  a dry  place  until  wanted.  Celery  seed  is  a 
very  nice  addition  to  the  flavoring  of  sauces,  and  may  be  used  in- 
stead of  the  fresh  celery  when  the  latter  is  out  of  season.  Pickled 


164 


CATSUPS  AND  SAUCES. 


nasturtium  seed,  for  which  a recipe  is  given  under  Pickles,  will  be 
found  a good  substitute  for  capers  and  is  often  used.  Ghprkins, 
(small  cucumber  pickles)  cut  in  small  pieces,  are  also  used  instead 
of  capers  when  the  latter  are  not  obtainable.  When  drawn  butter 
is  used  in  the  composition  of  sauce  to  which  lemon  juice  or  vinegar 
is  to  be  added,  always  make  it  with  water,  never  with  milk,  as  the 
combination  of  the  latter  with  the  acid  would  be  most  unwhole- 
some. 

The  common  practice  of  preparing  mustard  for  the  table  with 
vinegar,  or  still  more,  with  boiling  water,  materially  checks  the 
development  of  those  peculiar  principles  on  which  its  pungency  or 
strength  almost  entirely  depends,  and  cold  water  may  cause  it  to 
ferment.  It  should  therefore  be  mixed  with  water  that  has  been 
boiled  and  cooled  to  lukewarm.  Put  the  mustard  in  a (5up  with  a 
small  pinch  of  salt  and  mix  with  it  very  gradually  sufficient  watei 
to  make  it  drop  from  the  spoon  without  being  watery.  Stir  and 
mix  well,  rubbing  the  lumps  down  with  the  back  of  a spoon  until 
smooth,  and  do  not  add  flavoring  until  this  paste  is  made.  Mustard 
is  much  better  freshly  made,  and  only  a small  quantity  should  be 
mixed  at  once. 


Barberry  Catsup. — Three  quarts  barberries  stewed  and  strained, 
four  quarts  cranberries,  one  cup  raisins,  a large  quince  and  four 
small  onions,  all  stewed  with  a quart  of  wa-'^'er  and  strained.  Mix 
these  ingredients  with  the  barberries  and  add  half  cup  vinegar, 
three-fourths  cup  salt,  two  cups  sugar,  one  dessert-spoon  each 
ground  clove  and  ground  allspice,  two  tablespoons  each  black  pep- 
per and  celery  seed,  and  one  of  ground  mustard,  one  teaspoon  each 
cayenne,  cinnamon  and  ginger,  and  a nutmeg.  Let  the  whole  boil 
one  minute ; if  too  thick  add  vinegar  or  water.  With  the  quantities 
given  about  three  quarts  of  catsup  can  be  made. 

Cherry  Catsup. — One  pint  pure  cherr}^  juice,  half  pound  sugar, 
teaspoon  each  ground  cloves  and  cinnamon.  Boil  to  thick  syrup 
and  bottle. 

Cucumber  Catsup. — Peel,  seed  and  grate  on  coarse  grater,  one 
dozen  large  green  cucumbers ; put  the  pulp  in  a large  towel  and 
wring  out  all  moisture  that  can  be  extracted ; peel  and  grate  or  chop 
fine  four  large  onio.iB  and  mix  with  the  grated  cucumber,  adding 
one  ounce  celery  seed,  .a  .aping  teaspoon  white  pepper  tablespo  n 
salt,  half  pint  salad  oil  or  American  Cooking  Oil,  and  sufficient  vin- 
egar to  make  as  thin  as  ordinary  catsup.  When  all  are  thoroughly 


CATSUPS  AND  SAUCES. 


165 


blended  put  into  wide-mouthed  glass  jars,  put  a teaspoon  oil  in  top 
of  each  jar  and  seal  air-tight ; or  peel  and  chop  three  dozen  cucum- 
bers and  eighteen  onions  very  fine ; sprinkle  over  them  three-fourths 
pint  table  salt,  put  the  whole  in  a sieve  and  let  drain  overnight ; add 
a cup  mustard  seed,  half  cup  ground  black  pepper,  mix  well,  and 
cover  with  good  cider  vinegar. 

Currant  Catsup. — Four  pounds  fully-ripe  currants,  one  and  a 
half  pounds  sugar,  tablespoon  ground  cinnamon,  teaspoon  each  salt, 
ground  cloves  and  pepper,  pint  vinegar ; stew  currants  and  sugar 
until  quite  thick,  add  other  ingredients  and  bottle  for  use ; or,  take 
juice  of  five  pounds  currants,  three  pounds  sugar,  one  pint  vinegar, 
two  tablespoons  ground  cinnamon,  one  each  of  cloves,  allspice  and 
black  pepper,  one  grated  nutmeg  and  a pinch  of  salt.  Cook  one-half 
hour. 

Elderherry  Catsup.- — Pick  from  the  stalk  as  many  ripe  elder- 
berries as  are  wanted  to  put  down,  put  into  a stone  jar  with  enough 
strong  vinegar  to  cover  them,  bake  in  a hot  oven  three  hours  and 
strain  while  hot.  Boil  the  liquor  thus  obtained  with  cloves,  mace, 
peppercorns  and  four  or  five  shallots,  enough  to  give  a considerable 
flavor ; taste,  and  when  flavored  as  liked,  put  in  one-half  pound  of 
the  best  anchovies  to  every  quart  of  liquor ; stir  and  boil  only  until 
dissolved ; bottle  in  pint  bottles  and  cork  carefully,  sealing  by  dip- 
ping corks  in  hot  sealing-wax. 

Grape  Catsup. — Boil,  and  strain  five  pounds  grapes  through  a 
colander,  add  to  the  juice  one  pint  vinegar,  two  and  a half  pounds 
sugar,  one  tablespoon  each  ground  cinnamon,  cloves,  allspice,  pep- 
per, and  a half  tablespoon  salt.  Boil  again  until  a little  thick,  bottle 
and  seal. 

Gooseberry  Catsup. — Nine  pounds  gooseberries,  five  pounds 
sugar,  one  quart  vinegar,  three  tablespoons  cinnamon,  one  and  a half 
each  of  allspice  and  cloves ; the  gooseberries  should  be  nearly  or 
quite  ripe.  Take  off  blossoms,  wash  and  put  them  into  a porcelain 
kettle,  mash  thoroughly,  scald  and  put  through  the  colander,  add 
sugar  and  spices,  boil  fifteen  minutes  and  add  the  vinegar  cold ; bot- 
tle immediately  before  it  cools.  Kipe  Grapes  prepared  by  same  rule 
make  an  excellent  catsup. 

Lemon  Catsup. — One  pound  and  a quarter  of  salt,  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  ground  mustard,  one  ounce  each  of  mace,  nutmeg,  cayenne 
and  allspice,  one  gallon  of  cider  vinegar,  eight  or  nine  garlic  cloves, 
fifteen  large  lemons  ; slice  the  lemons,  add  the  other  ingredients,  let 
simmer  from  twenty  to  thirty  minutes,  place  in  a covered  jar,  stir 
every  day  for  seven  or  eight  weeks,  strain,  bottle,  cork  and  seal. 

Liver  Catsup. — Rub  a very  fresh  beef  liver  thoroughly  with 
rolled  salt  and  place  it  in  a vessel  that  will  not  crush  it ; turn  and 


166 


SAUCES  AND  CATSUPS. 


lub  thoroughly  for  ten  days,  then  mince  into  small  dice  and  boil  in 
a gallon  of  water  closely  covered  until  reduced. to  three  quarts ; strain 
through  a sieve  and  let  settle  till  next  day ; add  one  ounce  each  gin- 
ger and  allspice  and  two  ounces  whole  black  pepper,  and  boil  slowly 
until  reduced  to  three  pints.  When  cold  bottle  and  keepwell  corked. 

• Oyster  Catsup. — Procure  oysters  very  fresh  and  open  sufficient 
to  fill  pint  measure ; save  the  liquor,  and  scald  the  oysters  in  it  with 
one  pint  good  cider,  strain  the  oysters  and  put  them  in  a mortar 
with  a tablespoon  salt,  one  drachm  cayenne,  and  two  drachms  pounded 
mace ; pound  the  whole  until  reduced  to  a pulp,  then  add  it  to  the 
liquor  in  which  they  were  scalded ; boil  it  again  five  minutes,  and 
skim  well ; rub  the  whole  through  a sieve,  and  when  cold,  bottle  and 
cork  closely.  The  corks  should  be  sealed. 

Pepper  Catsup. — Take  four  dozen  large  red  pepper-pods,  three 
(juarts  vinegar,  three  tablespoons  grated . horse-radish,  five  onions 
and  one  clove  garlic.  Boil  until  soft,  and  strain  through  a sieve. 
Then  add  two  tablespoons  each  of  black  pepper,  allspice,  mace, 
cloves  and  salt.  Boil  again  ten  minutes ; then  bottle.  Some  add 
one  quart  tomatoes  and  one  cup  sugar. 

Plum  Catsup. — To  three  pounds  fruit  take  one  and  three- 
fourths  pounds  sugar,  one  tablespoon  each  cloves,  cinnamon  and 
pepper,  and  a very  little  salt ; scald  and  put  plums  through  the  sieve 
then  add  sugar  and  spices  and  boil  to  right  consistency. 

Tomato  Catsup. — Half  bushel  ripe  tomatoes,  four  ounces  salt, 
three  ounces  ground  black  pepper,  one  ounce  cinnamon,  half  ounce 
ground  cloves,  one  drachm  cayenne  pepper,  one  gallon  vinegar ; slice 
the  tomatoes  and  stew  in  their  own  liquor  until  soft,  and  rub  through 
a sieve  fine  enough  to  retain  the  seeds  ; boil  the  pulp  and  juice  down 
to  the  consistency  of  apple-butter  (very  thick),  stirring  steadily  all 
the  time  to  prevent  burning ; then  add  the  vinegar  with  which  a 
small  cup  sugar  and  the  :.pices  have  been  mixed,  boil  up  twice,  re- 
move from  fire,  let  cool  and  bottle.  Those  who  like  the  flavor  of 
onions  may  add  about  half  a dozen  medium  sized  ones,  peeled  and 
sliced,  fifteen  minutes  before  the  vinegar  and  spices  are  put  in. 

Tomato  Catsup. — Take  one  bushel  firm  ripe  tomatoes,  wipe 
them  off  nicely  with  a damp  cloth,  cut  out  the  cores,  and  put  them 
in  a poicelain-lined  iron  kettle  or  a genuine  bell-metal  one.  Place 
over  the  fire,  and  pour  over  them  about  three  pints  water,  throw  in 
two  large  handfuls  peach  leaves,  with  ten  or  twelve  onions  or  shal- 
lots cut  fine.  Boil  until  the  tomatoes  are  done,  which  will  take 
about  two  hour: ; then  strain  through  a coarse-mesh  sieve,  pour  the 
liquid  back  again  into  the  boiling  kettle  and  add  half  a gallon  good 
strong  cider  vinegar , have  ready  two  ounces  ground  spice,  two 
ounces  ground  black  pepper,  two  ounces  mustard  ( either  ground  or 
in  the  seed,  as  you  prefer),  one  ounce  ground  cloves,  two  grated  nufi 


CATSUPS  AND  SAUCES. 


11^7 


megs,  two  pounds  light  brown  sugar,  and  one  pint  salt;  mix  the^e 
ingredients  well  together  before  putting  in  the  boiler ; then  boil  t\^^J) 
hours,  stirring  continually  to  prevent  burning.  If  you  like  the  cat- 
sup “hot,”  add  cayenne  pepper  to  your  taste.  When  cool,  fill  bot- 
tles (reeded  bottles  are  the  nicest,  they  can  be  procured  at  the  house 
furnisher’s  and  a set  will  last  some  time ; they  look  better  than  ones 
of  all  sizes  and  styles).  Cork  and  seal  with  bottle-wax  so  as  to  ex- 
clude the  air.  Keep  in  a cool,  dry  place  for  future  use.  This  recipe 
is  preferred  to  all  others — it  has  been  used  for  years.  It  keeps  well, 
and  has  been  pronounced  by  competent  judges  superior  to  all 
others. 

Tomato  Catsup. — Stew  and  strain  four  quarts  unpared,  sliced 
tomatoes,  add  two  tablespoons  each  salt,  mustard  and  black  pepper 
and  quarter  tablespoon  cayenne,  more  or  less  as  liked,  cup  of  brown 
sugar  and  pint  vinegar.  Boil  to  the  consistency  of  cream,  watching 
carefully  to  prevent  burning,  then  set  on  back  of  stove  and  add  half 
a tablespoon  each  of  cinnamon  and  cloves  and  a pint  of  currant  jel- 
ly, mixing  thoroughly ; can  or  bottle  while  hot.  Horse-radish  bot- 
tles or  any  small,  wide-mouthed  bottles  are  best  for  this  purpose ; 
seal  with  corks  and  dip  in  sealing  wax.  This  will  keep  two  years. 

WalmU  Catsiip. — Procure  one  hundred  walnuts  at  the  time 
when  you  can  run  a pin  through  them,  slightly  bruise,  and  put  them 
into  a jar  with  a handful  salt  and  one  quart  vinegar;  let  them  stand 
eight  day^  stirring  every  day,  then  drain  the  liquor  off  them,  add 
one-fourth  ounce  each  mace,  nutmeg,  cloves,  ginger,  and  whole  black 
peppers,  small  piece  horse-radish,  twenty  shallots,  or  onions,  and  one- 
fourth  pound  anchovies,  and  boil  half  an  hour.  It  may  be  strained 
or  not  as  preferred,  and  if  required  a little  more  vinegar  can  l;ie 
added  according  to  taste.  Bottle  and  seal. 


Almond  Sauce. — Blanch  and  pound  sweet  almonds  and  add 
enough  white  stock  to  make  it  of  the  consistency  of  thickeneil 
gravy.  Pour  over  boiled  mutton-chops. 

Anchovy  Sauce.. — Bone  four  anchovies  and  pound  them  in  a 
mortar  to  a paste  with  one  ounce  butter.  Melt  a half  pint  butter  and 
Avhen  hot  stir  in  the  pounded  anchovies  and  cayenne  to  taste,  sim- 
mer three  or  four  minutes  and  if  liked  add  a few  drops  of  lemon 
juice.  A quicker  and  easier  way  of  making  this  sauce  is  to  stir  one 
and  one-half  tablespoons  anchovy  essence  into  one-half  ])int  drawn 
butter,  add  a little  lemon  juice  and  seasoning  to  taste  ; boil  one  min- 
ute and  serve.  Less  of  tlie  essence  may  be  used  if  thought  too 
strong.  Serve  with  baked  fish. 

Apple  Sauce. — Pare,  core  and  quarter  tart  apples,  throwing  into 
cold  water  until  all  are  parcnl.  to  preserve  their  whiteness  ; put  them 


CATSUPS  AND  SAUCES. 


i,68 


in  a saucepan  with  sufficient  water  to  moisten  them  and  boil  till 
soft  enough  to  pulp ; beat  them,  adding  a small  piece  butter,  and 
some  like  a little  sugar  and  nutmeg.  Serve  with  roast  pork,  goose, 
or  duck.  May  be  colored,  if  desired,  with  beet  root,  cochineal,  or  a 
little  spinach  juice.  To  make  Brown  Apple  Sauce^  cook  the  apples 
in  half  pint  brown  gravy  and  finish  as  above,  leaving  out  sugar,  and 
seasoning  with  cayenne  instead  of  nutmeg. 

Asparagus  Sauce. — Break  ^ bundle  of  green  asparagus  in  the 
tender  part,  wash  well  and  put  into  boiling  salt  water,  to  render 
green ; when  tender  take  out,  put  into  cold  water  and  drain  on  a 
cloth  until  all  moisture  is  absorbed.  Put  one  tablespoon  fresh  but- 
ter in  a saucepan  with  a small  bunch  parsley  and  three  or  four  green 
onions  ; lay  in  the  asparagus  and  fry  the  whole  over  a sharp  fire  five 
minutes ; add  salt,  a large  lump  sugar  and  four  tablespoons  white 
utock  and  simmer  another  five  minutes ; rub  all  through  a sieve  and 
if  not  a good  color  use  a little  spinach  coloring.  This  sauce  should 
be  rather  sweet. 

Bread  Sauce. — Put  giblets  of  a fowl  with  the  neck  and  legs  in  a 
saucepan  with  one  onion,  twelve  whole  peppers,  one  blade  mace,  salt 
to  taste,  and  rather  more  than  a pint  water ; let  simmer  one  hour, 
strain  the  liquor  over  three-fourths  pound  bread  crumbs,  cover  and 
leave  one  hour  where  it  will  keep  warm,  then  beat  up  with  a fork 
until  nice  and  smooth ; boil  three  or  four  minutes,  stirring  until 
rather  thick,  add  three  tablespoons  melted  butter  or  cream,  and  send 
to  table  hot  with  roast  fowl  or  game.  A nice  way  of  serving  is  to  fry 
coarse  crumbs  a light  brown  in  tablespoon  very  hot  butter,  stir  over 
hot  fire  two  minutes  without  burning.  Cover  the  breasts  of  roasted 
birds  with  these,  and  serve  the  sauce  poured  around  the  birds,  or  in 
a gravy  dish.  Add  the  chopped  giblets  for  Gihlet  Sauce.  Another 
good  bread  sauce  can  be  made  by  placing  a sliced  onion  and  six 
peppercorns  in  a half  pint  milk  over  boiling  water  until  onion  is  per- 
fectly soft ; strain  it  over  a half  pint  grated  bread  crumbs  without 
crust  and  leave  it  covered  for  an  hour ; beat  it  smooth,  add  pinch  of 
salt  and  two  tablespoons  butter  rubbed  in  a little  flour ; add  enough 
sweet  cream  or  milk  to  make  it  the  proper  consistency  and  boil  a few 
minutes.  It  must  be  thin  enough  to  pour. 

Caper  Sauce. — To  a pint  drawn  butter  sauce  add  three  table- 
spoons capers,  either  whole  or  chopped  once  or  twice ; a hard 
boiled  egg  chopped  fine  may  be  added,  or  just  after  taking  from  fire 
stir  in  yolk  of  an  egg  beaten  with  teaspoon  water.  If  to  be  served 
with  fish  flavor  with  teaspoon  each  lemon  juice  and  essence  of 
anchovy.  Or  chop  two  tablespoons  capers  and  add  them  to  a half 
pint  drawn  butter,  with  piece  of  lemon,  teaspoon  Worcestershire 
sauce  and  a pinch  cayenne  ; put  on  fire  and  simmer  a few  minutes ; 
mix  a teaspoon  flour  with  a very  little  cold  water  and  add  to  sauce. 
Mutton  Caper  Sauce  is  made  as  follows : Fifteen  minutes  before 


CATSUPS  AND  SAUCES. 


169 


the  mutton  is  done  melt  two  tablespoons  butter  in  a saucepan,  stir 
into  it  one  tablespoon  flour ; when  thoroughly  mixed  add  half  a pint 
of  the  liquor  in  which  the  mutton  is  boiling,  and  half  a pint  of  milk, 
season  with  pepper  and  salt,  cook  a few  minutes,  and  just  before 
serving  (in  order- that  their  color  may  not  be  lost  by  standing)  add 
two  heaped  tablespoons  capers.  Never  let  sauce  boil  after  adding 
capers. 

Celery  Sauce. — Scrape  the  outside  stalks  of  celery  and  cut  in 
pieces  an  inch  long,  let  stand  in  - ■< 


in  boiling  salted  water,  enough 


drain  off  water  and  dress  with  butter,  salt,  a little  mace,  and  milk  or 
cream,  thickened  with  a little  flour.  Or  make  a dressing  by  adding 
to  half  pint  milk  or  cream  the  well-beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs,  a bit  of 
butter,  a little  salt  and  pepper  and  grated  nutmeg ; bring  just  to 
boiling  point,  pour  over  stewed  celery.  Another  sauce  is  made  by 
cutting  the  tender  parts  of  a head  of  celery  very  flne.  Pour  on  water 
enough  to  cover  them,  cover  the  saucepan  and  set  where  it  will  sim- 
mer one  hour ; mix  tAvo  tablespoons  flour  and  four  of  butter ; 
when  the  celery  has  boiled  one  hour  add  to  it  the  butter  and  flour, 
one  pint  milk  or  cream,  season  to  taste,  boil  up  once  and  serve  with 
roast  duck,  or  roast  or  boiled  fowl. 

Chestnut  Sauce. — Take  one-half  pound  shelled  chestnuts,  and 
put  them  into  boiling  Avater  for  a feAv  minutes ; throAV  into  cold 
water,  take  off  the  thin  inside  skin  and  put  them  into  a saucepan 
Avith  a half  pint  Avhite  stock  and  two  strips  lemon  peel,  or  a tea- 
spoon juice,  and  let  them  simmer  an  hour  and  a half,  or  until  chest- 
nuts are  quite  tender.  Put  the  Avhole  through  a hair  sieve  with  a 
Avooden  spoon,  add  seasoning  of  cayenne  and  a gill  of  cream ; let  it 
just  simmer,  but  not  boil  and  keep  stirring  all  the  time.  Serve  very 
hot  and  quickly.  If  milk  is  used  instead  of  cream,  tAVO  teaspoons 
butter  and  one  of  flour  aauII  be  required ; melt  butter,  stir  in  flour, 
and  when  smooth  add  to  the  mixture.  If  sauce  is  not  perfectly 
smooth  rub  again  through  a sieve.  To  vsi2^q  Broion  Chestnut  Sauce 
take  same  proportions,  using  any  soup  stock,  or  the  broth  from  the 
foAvl,  if  boiled,  stirring  butter  and  flour  o\"er  the  fire  until  browned, 
or  adding  a teaspoon  caramel  coloring.  Serve  either  of  the  above 
sauces  AAuth  roast  turkey  or  other  roast  or  boiled  fowl. 

Chili  Sauce. — TAveh^e  large  ripe  tomatoes,  three  ripe  or  tAvo 
green  peppers,  leaAung  out  half  the  seeds,  two  onioAs,  tAvo  table- 
spoons each  salt  and  sugar,  one  of  cinnamon,  three  cups  vinegar ; 
peel  tomatoes  and  onions,  chop  separately  very  Une^  add  the  finely 
chopped  peppers  AAuth  the  other  ingredients,  and  boil  one  and  a half 
hours.  Bottle,  and  it  aauII  keep  a long  time.  Stone  jugs  are  better 
than  glass  cans.  One  quart  of  canned  tomatoes  may  be  used  instead 
of  the  ripe  ones.  This  chili  sauce  is  excellent  and  much  better  and 
more  healthful  than  catsups.  If  liked  more  highly  spiced  add  one- 


170 


CATSUPS  AND  SAUCES. 


half  teaspoon  cloves  and  one-third  teaspoon  each  ginger  and  nutmeg. 
A half  pint  of  W orcestershire  sauce  is  sometimes  added. 

Crab  Sauce. — Choose  a nice  fresh  crab,  pick  all  the  meat  away 
from  the  shell,  and  cut  it  into  small  square  pieces.  Make  a half 
pint  drawn  butter,  put  in  the  fish  and  season  with  salt,  pounded 
mace  and  cayenne  to  taste ; let  it  gradually  warm  through  and  sim- 
mer two  minutes.  It  should  not  boil.  Almost  equals  lobster  sauce 
and  served  the  same. 

Cranherry  Sauce. — After  removing  all  soft  berries,  wash  thor- 
oughly, place  for  about  two  minutes  in  scalding  water,  remove,  and 
to  every  pound  fruit  add  three-quarters  of  a pound  granulated  sugar 
and  a half  pint  water ; stew  together  over  a moderate  but  steady 
fire.  Be  careful  to  cover  and  not  to  stir  the  fruit,  but  occasionally 
shake  the  vessel,  or  apply  a gentler  heat  if  in  danger  of  sticking  or 
]>urning.  If  attention  to  these  particulars  be  given,  the  berries  will 
1 stain  their  shape  to  a considerable  extent,  which  adds  greatly  to  theii 
a ppearance  on  the  table.  Boil  from  five  to  seven  minutes,  remove 
f rom  fire,  turn  into  a deep  dish,  and  set  aside  to  cool.  If  -to  be  kept, 
they  can  be  put  up  at  once  in  air-tight  jars.  Or,  for  strained  sauce, 
Cine  and  a half  pounds  of  fruit  should  be  stewed  in  one  pint  water 
for  ten  or  twelve  minutes,  or  until  quite  soft,  then  strain  through  h. 
puree  or  fine  wire  sieve,  and  three-quarters  pound  sugar  thoroughly 
vStirred  into  the  pulp  thus  obtained ; after  cooling  it  is  ready  for  use. 
Serve  with  roast  turkey,  roast  pork  or  game.  When  to  be  kept  for  a 
long  time  without  sealing  more  sugar  may  be  added,  but  its  too  free 
use  impairs  the  peculiar  cranberry  flavor.  For  dinner-sauce  half  a 
pound  is  more  economical,  and  really  preferable  to  three-quarters  as 
given  above.  Use  a porcelain  or  granite  ironware  kettle.  Some  pre- 
fer not  to  add  the  sugar  until  the  fruit  is  almost  done,  thinking  this 
plan  makes  it  more  tender,  and  preserves  the  color  better. 

Cream  Sauce. — Heat  one  tablespoon  butter  in  a skillet,  add  a 
tablespoon  flour  and  stir  until  perfectly  smooth,  then  add  gradually 
a cup  cold  milk  or  cream,  let  boil  up  once,  season  to  taste  with  salt 
and  pepper,  and  a little  mace  or  lemon  juice  if  wished,  and  serve. 
Butter  may  be  omitted  when  cream  is  used  if  thought  too  rich.  This 
is  very  nice  for  vegetables,  omelets,  croquettes,  delicate  meats,  fish,  or 
sweet  breads. 

Currant  Sauce.— ''Kdli  an  hour  before  venison  is  done  pick  over 
an  ounce  of  dried  currants,  wash  them  well,  put  them  over  the  fire 
in  half  pint  hot  water  and  boil  them  fifteen  miDutes ; then  add  two 
heaping  tablespoons  bread  crumbs,  one  of  butter,  a palatable  season- 
ing of  salt  and  pepper,  and  six  whole  cloves,  and  boil  the  sauce 
gently ; just  before  serving  it  add  a tablespoon  currant  jelly  hoaten 
with  a cup  water  or  stock,  or  gravy  from  the  game.  with 

venison  or  other  game. 


CATSUPS  AND  SAUCES. 


171 


Currant  Jelly  Sauce. — Three  tablespoons  butter,  one  onion, 
one  bay  leaf,  one  sprig  celery,  two  tablespoons  vinegar,  half  cup  cut^- 
rant  jelly,  one  tablespoon  flour,,  one  pint  stock,  seasoning.  Brown 
butter  and  onion,  add  flour  and  herbs,  then  the  stock,  and  simmer 
twenty  minutes.  Strain,  skim  off  the  fat,  add  the  jelly  and  stir 
over  the  fire  until  melted ; serve  with  game. 

Curry  Sauce. — One  tablespoon  each  butter  and  flour,  one  tea- 
spoon curry  powder,  one  large  slice  of  onion,  one  large  cup  stock, 
salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Cut  the  onion  fine  and  brown  in  the  but- 
ter, add  the  flour  and  curry  powder,  stir  one  minute,  add  the  stock 
and  season  to  taste.  Simmer  five  minutes,  strain  and  serve.  Good 
with  a boil  or  saute  of  fish  or  meat. 

Drawn  Butter  Sauce. — Rub  two  tablespoons  butter  into  half  a 
tablespoon  flour,  beating  to  a cream, adding, if  needed,a  little  salt ; pou?c  , 
on  it  half  a pint  boiling  water  or  milk,  stirring  it  one  -way  rapidly, 
and  taking  care  not  to  let  it  quite  boil,  as  boiling  makes  it  oily  and 
unfit  for  use.  The  boiling  may  be  prevented  by  cooking  in  the  cus- 
tard kettle  as  heretofore  suggested,  or  placing  the  saucepan  in  a 
larger  one  of  boiling  water,  covering  and 
shaking  frequently  until  it  reaches  the  boiling 
point.  Now  pass  through  a sieve  and  stir  in  a 
tablespoon  butter  cut  in  pieces.  If  necessary 
to  reheat,  return  to  custard  kettle.  This  makes 
one  pint  sauce.  If  liked  acid,  a few  drops  vin- 
egar or  lemon  juice  may  be  added  just  before 
serving.  In  the  thickening  of  all  sauces,  let  it  iveu.e. 

be  remembered  that  butter  and  flour  should  be  well  cooked  together 
before  the  sauce  is  added,  to  prevent  the  flour  from  tasting  uncooked. 
In  butter  sauces,  however,  only  enough  butter  should  be  used  to 
cook  the  flour,  adding  the  remainder  cut  in  pieces  after  the  sauce  is 
taken  from  the  fire.  This  preserves  its  flavor.  An  excellent  Pickle 
Sauce  is  made  by  adding  two  tablespoons  finely  chopped  pickled 
cucumbers  to  drawn  butter  sauce  prepared  as  above.  Or,  make  with 
cream  and  add  boiled  cauliflowers  cut  with  vegetable  cutter,  for 
Cauliflower  Sauce^  excellent  with  boiled  fowl.  Another  good  sauce 
for  fowl  is  the  Lemon  Sauce,  made  by  adding  to  the  drawn  butter 
sauce  the  chopped  inside  of  a lemon  (without  the  seeds)  and  the 
liver  of  the  fowl  chopped  fine.  A great  variety  of  sauces  which  are 
excellent  to  eat  with  fish,  poultry  or  boiled  meats  can  be  made  with 
the  drawn  butter  sauce  by  adding  different  herbs,  such  as  parsley, 
mint  or  sweet  marjoram.  First  throw  them  into  boiling  water,  cut 
fine,  and  they  are  ready  to  be  added,  when  serve  immediately  with 
two  hard-boiled  eggs  chopped  fine.  This  makes  a nice  sauce  to  serve 
with  baked  fish.  The  chopped  inside  of  a lemon  without  the  seeds, 
to  which  the  chicken  liver  has  been  added,  makes  a good  sauce  for 
boiled  chicken. 


172 


CATSUPS  AXD  SAUCES. 


Egg  Sauce. — Put  one  cup  each  water  and  milk  on  fire  to  scald, 
and  when  hot  stir  in  tablespoon  flour,  previously  mixed  smooth 
with  a very  little  cold  water,  add  three  eggs  well  beaten  and  strained, 
season  with  salt  and  peppei,  two  tablespoons  butter  and  a little  white 
vinegar ; do  not  let  boil  after  eggs  are  put  in  ; boil  four  eggs  hard, 
slice  and  lay  over  the  dish ; a little  nutmeg  and  a few  thin  slices  of 
lemon  are  sometimes  added ; pour  over  sauce,  and  serve  with  boiled 
fish.  Or,  take  yolks  of  two  eggs  boiled  hard  and  mash  with  a table- 
spoon mustard,  a little  pepper  and  salt,  three  tablespoons  vinegar 
and  three  of  salad  oil.  A tablespoon  of  catsup  improves  this  for 
some.  Very  nice  for  boiled  fish.  Or,  to  a pint  drawn  butter  sauce, 
without  herbs,  add  four  hard-boiled  eggs  chopped  fine. 

Gooseberry  Sauce. — Boil  one  pint  green  gooseberries  in  water 
until  quite  tender ; strain  them,  and  rub  them  through  a sieve.  Put 
. into  a saucepan  three  tablespoons  French  White  ' Sauce,  or  veal 
gravy  will  do,  with  two  tablespoons  butter  and  seasoning  of  salt, 
pepper  and  grated  nutmeg  to  taste ; add  the  pulp  from  the  goose- 
berries, mix  all  well  together,  and  heat  gradually  through.  A little 
pounded  sugar  added  to  this  sauce  is  by  many  persons  considered 
an  improvement,  as  the  saccharine  matter  takes  off  the  extreme 
acidity  of  the  unripe  fruit.  Serve  with  boiled  mackerel. 

Ilollandaise  Sauce. — One-half  cup  broth,  milk  or  water,  cup 
butter,  yolks  of  four  eggs,  juice  of  one  iemon,  a dozen  pepper-corns, 
nutmeg  and  salt.  Boil  the  broth  with  the  peppercorns,  a scrap  of 
broken  nutmeg  and  level  teaspoon  salt.  When  flavored  strain  the 
broth  into  another  saucepan  or  tin  cup.  Put  in  two-thirds  of  the 
bufter  and  the  four  yolks  and  beat  it  with  a fork  over  the  fire  until  it 
thickens  like  cream.  Then  take  it  off  and  beat  in  the  rest  of  the 
butter  in  little  bits,  beating  until  all  is  melted.  Then  squeeze  in  the 
lemon  juice,  or  use  vinegar  for  a substitute.  The  sauce  must  never 
fairly  boil,  only  jus-t  begin  to.  It  should  be  cooked  in  cup  set  in 
boiling  water.  There  is  a moment,  about  a minute  after  set  to  cook, 
that  the  sauce  is  at  its  thickest  degree,  like  softened  butter.  After 
that  a separation  or  curdling  takes  place,  not  very  plain  to  the  eye, 
but  that  makes  the  sauce  thin  and  spoils  it.  Serve  with  hsh,  cauli- 
flower, asparagus,  or  any  vegetable.  It  is  golden  yellow,  shining 
and  smooth,  just  thick  enough  to  be  taken  up  on  the  point  of  a 
knife,  if  for  fish,  but  needs  to  be  thinner  for  vegetable  dressing. 

noTse-radish  Sauce. — Grate  very  fine  a root  of  horse-radish, 
mix  two  tablespoons  of  it  with  a teaspoon  salt  and  four  tablespoons 
.cream,  stir  briskly  and  add  by  degrees  a fourth  tablespoon  vinegar. 
Or,  take  four  tal:>lespoons  horse-radish  and  mix  well  with  one  table- 
spoon each  sugar  and  salt,  one-half  teaspoon  pepper  and  two  tea- 
spoons made  mustard,  with  sufficient  vinegar  to  give  it  the  consis- 
tency of  cream.  Especially  nice  with  corned  beef,  and  acceptable 
with  almost  any  meat.  It  is  sometimes  prepared  by  adding  to  two 


CATSUPS  AND  SAUCES. 


173 


tablespoons  grated  horse-radish  one  dessert-spoon  olive-oil  (or  melted 
butter  or  cream),  and  one  of  made  mustard.  To  prepare  Horse- 
radish  for  Winter^  in  the  fall  mix  the  quantity  wanted  in  the  fol- 
lowing proportions : A coffee-cup  grated  horse-radish,  two  table- 
spoons white  sugar,  half  teaspoon  salt,  and  a pint  and  a half  cold 
vinegar.  Bottle  and  seal. 

Italian  Sauce. — One  cup  brown  sauce  (roast  meat  gravy, 
strained  and  skimmed),  one  teaspoon  minced  onion,  two  each  of 
minced  mushrooms  and  parsley,  juice  of  one  lemon,  cayenne  and 
salt  to  taste.  Pour  half  the  juice  from  the  can  of  mushrooms  into 
the  brown  sauce,  add  the  other  ingredients  and  simmer  together  fif- 
teen minutes.  Nice  with  fried  trout  or  other  fish.  If  fresh  mush- 
rooms are  used  they  should  not  stand  after  chopping  or  they  will 
turn  black. 

Indian  Chetney  Sauce. — Chop  eight  ounces  sharp  sour  apples, 
])ared,  cored  and  cut  in  small  square  pieces,  and  add  to  them  eight 
ounces  each  tomatoes,  salt,  brown  sugar  and  stoned  raisins,  four  ouncea 
each  cayenne  and  powdered  ginger,  two  ounces  each  garlic  and  shah 
lots,  three  quarts  vinegar,  one  quart  lemon  juice;  mix  the  whole 
well  together,  and  put  in  a well-covered  jar.  Keep  this  in  a warm 
place,  and  stir  every  day  for  a month,  taking  care  to  put  on  the  lid 
after  this  operation ; strain,  but  do  not  squeeze  it  dry ; store  it  away 
in  clean  jars  or  bottles  for  use,  and  the  liquor  will  serve  as  an  ex- 
(iellent  sauce  for  meat  or  fish.  Some  prefer  to  cook  the  apples  in 
j;he  vinegar  before  adding  other  ingredients. 

Leamington  Sauce. — Be  very  particular  in  choosing  the  walnuts 
>rs  soon  as  they  appear  in  the  market;  for  they  are  more  easily 
bruised  before  they  become  hard  and  shelled.  Pound  them  in  a 
mortar  to  a pulp,  strew  some  salt  over  them,  and  let  them  remain 
thus  for  two  or  three  days,  occasionally  stirring  and  moving  them 
about.  Press  out  the  juice,  and  to  each  quart  walnut-liquor  allow 
three  quarts  vinegar,  one  pint  soy,  one  ounce  cayenne,  tow  ounces 
shallots,  three-fourth  ounce  garlic,  and  half  pint  cooking  wine. 
Pound  each  ingredient  separately  in  a mortar,  then  mix  them  well 
together,  and  store  away  for  use  in  small  bottles.  The  corks  should 
be  well  sealed.  This  sauce  should  be  made  as  soon  as  walnuts  are 
obtainable,  from  the  beginning  to  the  middle  of  July.  The  soy 
spoken  of  above  is  a sauce  frequently  made  use  of  for  fish  and  is 
manufactured  by  both  the  Japanese  and  Chinese,  that  of  the  for- 
mer being  the  best.  This  article  is  sometimes  adulterated  but  when 
genuine  it  is  of  an  agreeable  flavor,  thick,  and  of  a clear  brown 
color. 

Lemon  Sauce. — Put  three-fourths  pint  cream  into  a very  clean 
saucepan  (a  lined  one  is  best),  with  one  lemon-peel,  one-half  teaspoon 
whole  white  pepper,  and  a sprig  of  lemon  thyme,  and  let  these  infuse 


174 


CATSUPS  AND  SAUCES. 


for  half  an  hour,  when  simmer  gently  for  a few  minutes,  or  until 
there  is  a nice  flavor  of  lemon.  Strain  it,  and  add  a thickening  of 
three  tablespoons  of  butter  and  one  of  flour;  stir  this  well  in,  and 
put  in  juice  of  one  lemon  at  the  moment  of  serving;  mix  one  cup 
white  stock  with  the  cream,  and  add  a little  Balt.  This  sauce  should 
not  boil  after  the  cream  and  stock  are  mixed  together.  Milk  may 
he  used  instead  of  cream,  vdth  another  tablespoon  flour.  An  excel- 
lent sauce  for  fowls,  fricassees,  etc.  The  recipe  makes  enough  for  two 
fowls.  Or,  a simple  method  is  to  cut  three  slices  lemon  into  very 
small  dice,  add  to  drawn  butter,  let  boil  up  once  and  serve. 

Liver  and  Lemon  Sauce. — Wash  the  liver  of  a fowl  and  Tet  it 
boil  a few  minutes  ; peel  one  lemon  very  thin,  reserve  the  white  part 
and  pips  and  cut  it  into  very  small  slices ; mince  the  liver  and  a 
small  quantity  of  the  lemon  rind  very  fine ; add  these  ingredients  to 
a half  pint  smoothly  made  drawn  butter,  season  with  a little  salt, 
put  in  the  cut ‘lemon,  heat  it  gradually,  hut  do  not  allow  it  to  boil 
lest  the  butter  should  oil.  Serve  with  poultry. 

Liver  and  Parsley  Sauce. — Wash  and  score  the  liver  of  a fowl, 
boil  it  for  a few  minutes  and  mince  it  very  fine  ; scald  a small  bunch 
of  parsley  of  which  there  should  be  sufficient  when  chopped  to  fill  a 
tablespoon ; add  this  with  the  minced  liver  to  a half  pint  smoothly 
made  drawn  butter,  let  it  just  boil  and  serve  with  fowl. 

Lobster  Sauce. — Choose  a hen  lobster,  as  this  is  indispensable 
in  order  to  render  this  sauce  as  good  as  it  ought  to  be.  Pick  the 
meat  from  the  shells,  and  cut  it  into  small  square  pieces ; put  the 
spawn,  which  will  be  found  under  the  tail  of  the  lobster,  into  a mor- 
tar with  half  ounce  butter,  and  pound  it  quite  smooth ; rub  it 
through  a hair-sieve,  and  cover  up  till  wanted.  Make  three-fourths  pint 
of  drawn  butter,  and  add  one  tablespoon  anchovy  sauce,  one-half 
ounce  butter,  salt  and  cayenne  to  taste,  a little  pounded  mace  if 
liked,  and  two  or  three  tablespoons  cream.  Mix  well  before  the 
lobster  is  added  to  it,  as  it  should  retain  its  square  form,  and  not 
come  to  table  shredded  and  ragged.  Put  in  the  meat,  let  it  get 
thoroughly  hot,  but  do  not  allow  it  to  boil,  as  the  color  would  im- 
mediately be  spoiled ; for  it  should  be  remembered  that  this  sauce 
should  always  have  a bright  red  appearance.  If  it  is  intended  to  be 
served  with  turbot  or  brill,  a little  of  the  spawn  (dried  and  rubbed 
through  a sieve,  without  butter)  should  be  saved  to  garnish  with ; 
but  as  the  goodness,  flavor,  and  appearance  of  the  sauce  so  much 
depend  on  having  a proper  quantity  of  spawn,  the  less  used  for  gar- 
nishing the  better.  This  makes  sufficient  to  serve  with  a small 
turbot,  a brill  or  salmon  for  six  persons.  For  a very  small  lobster, 
use  only  a half  pint  drawn  butter  and  season  as  above.  The  re- 
mains of  a cold  lobster  may  with  a little  care  be  converted  into  a 
very  good  sauce.  Or,  break  the  shell  of  the  lobster  into  small 


CATSUPS  AND  SAUCES. 


175 


pieces ; pour  over  them  one  pint  water  or  veal  stock,  add  a pinch  of 
salt  and  simmer  gently  until  the  liquid  is  reduced  one-half.  Mix 
two  ounces  butter  with  an  ounce  flour,  strain  the  liquid  upon  it  and 
stir  all  over  the  Are  until  the  mixture  thickens  ; do  not  let  it  boil. 
Add  two  tablespoons  of  the  lobster  meat,  the  juice  of  half  a lemon, 
and  serve.  Improved  by  a tablespoon  of  lobster  butter  if  at  hand. 
An  economical  sauce  may  he  made  by  chopping  the  meat  of  the 
tail  and  claws  of  a good-sized  lobster  into  pieces  (not  too  small). 
Half  an  hour  before  dinner,  make  half  a pint  of  drawn  butter,  add 
the  chopped  lobster,  a pinch  of  coral,  another  of  cayenne,  and  a 
little  salt. 

Mayonnaise  Sance. — Work  the  yolks  of  two  raw  eggs  to  a 
smooth  paste  and  add  two  salt-spoons  salt,. half  a salt-spoon  cay- 
enne, a salt-spoon  dry  mustard  and  a teaspoon  olive  oil ; mix  these 
ingredients  thoroughly  and  add  the  strained  juice  of  half  a lemon; 
take  the  remainder  of  half  a pint  olive  oil  and  add  it  gradually,  a tea- 
spoon at  a time,  and  every  fifth  teaspoon  add  a few  drops  of  lemon 
juice  until  you  have  used  two  lemons  and  the  half  pint  oil.  Or,  rub 
the  yolks  of  three  hard-boiled  eggs  with  the  yolk  of  one  raw  egg  to 
a smooth  paste  ; add  a heaping  teaspoon  salt,  two  salt-spoons  white 
pepper,  and  two  salt-spoons  made  mustard ; mix  thoroughly  and 
work  a gill  of  oil  gradually  into  the  mixture  alternating  with  a tea- 
spoon of  tarragon  vinegar  until  you  have  used  three  tablespoons 
vinegar.  Should  the  sauce  appear  too  thick  add  a wineglass  of 
cream  gradually.  In  mixing  the  oil  and  lemon  juice  or  vinegar, 
some  put  in  only  a few  drops  at  a time,  alternately,  to  insure  against 
curdling.  For  a Fish  Mayonnaise  this  sauce  may  be  colored  with 
lobster-spawn,  pounded ; and  for  poultry  or  meat,  where  variety  is 
desired,  a little  parsley  juice  may  be  used  to  add  to  its  appearance. 

Mint  Sauce. — Take  fresh  young  mint,  strip  leaves  from  stems, 
wash,  drain  on  a sieve,  or  dry  them  on  a cloth ; chop  very  fine,  put 
in  a sauce-tureen,  and  to  three  heaped  tablespoons  mint  add  two  of 
pounded  sugar ; let  remain  a few  minutes  well  mixed  together,  and 
pour  over  it  gradually  six  tablespoons  of  good  vinegar.  If  members 
of  the  family  like  the  flavor  but  not  the  substance  of  the  mint,  the 
sauce  may  be  strained  after  it  has  stood  for  two  or  three  hours, 
pressing  it  well  to  extract  all  the  flavor.  It  is  better  to  make  the 
sauce  two  or  three  hours  before  dinner,  so  that  the  vinegar  may  be 
impregnated  with  the  mint.  Serve  with  either  boiled  or  roast  lamb. 
The  addition  of  three  or  four  tablespoons  of  the  liquor  from  the 
meat  is  an  im.provement.  This  makes  sufficient  sauce  for  a three  or 
four-pound  joint.  When  green  mint  is  scarce  and  not  obtainable, 
mint  vinegar  may  be  substituted  for  it  and  will  be  found  acceptable 
in  early  spring. 

Olive  Sauce. — Two  dozen  queen  olives,  one  pint  rich  stock,  the 
juice  of  one  lemon,  two  tablespoons  salad  oil,  one  of  flour,  salt,  pep- 


176 


CATSUPS  AND  SAUCES. 


per,  a small  slice  of  onion.  Let  the  olives  stand  in  hot  water  half  an 
hour  to  extract  the  salt,  then  place  in  cold  water  five  minutes.  Put 
onion  and  oil  in  stewpan,  and  as  soon  as  the  onion  begins  to  color 
add  flour.  Stir  until  smooth,  and  add  stock.  Set  hack  where  it 
will  simmer.  Carefully  stone  the  olives  by  paring  them  round  in 
ribl)ons  so  that  they  ma}^  recover  their  shape  when  stoned.  Put 
them  in  the  sauce,  add  seasoning,  and  simmer  twenty  minutes. 
Skim  carefully  and  serve.  If  sauce  is  liked  thin,  half  the  amount 
of  flour  given  can  be  used.  This  sauce  is  for  roast  duck  and  game. 

0)iion  Sauce. — Peel  nine  large  or  twelve  middling-sized  white 
onions,  and  put  them  into  water  to  which  a little  salt  has  been 
added,  to  preserve  their  whiteness,  and  let  them  remain  fifteen  min- 
utes. Put  in  saucepan,  cover  with  water  and  boil  until  tender, 
changing  the  water,  if  onions  are  very  strong,  when  they  have  boiled 
fifteen  minutes.  Drain  thoroughly,  chop  and  rub  through  sieve. 
Make  a pint  drawn  butter,  and  when  it  boils  put  in  the  onions,  sea- 
son with  salt,  stir  till  it  simmers  and  the  sauce  will  be  ready  to  serve. 
If  directions  are  carefully  followed  this  White  Onion  Sauce  will  be 
delicious.  Serve  with  roast  shoulder  of  mutton  or  broiled  rabbit. 
To  make  this  sauce  very  mild  and  delicate  use  Spanish  onions  which 
may  be  obtained  from  first  of  September  to  Christmas.  Two  or 
three  tablespoons  cream  added  just  before  serving  improves  it  very 
much.  A knife  and  sieve  or  small  wire  strainer  should  be  kept  ex- 
])ressly  for  preparing  onions,  that  their  flavor  may  not  be  imparted 
to  other  dishes.  To  make  Broum  Onion  Sauce  slice  and  fry  the 
onions  in  butter,  add  half  pint  any  gravy,  simmer  until  tender,  skim 
off  all  fat,  season  with  pepper  and  salt  and  put  through  a sieve,  re- 
heat and  serve.  When  a high  flavoring  is  liked  add  one  tablespoon 
mushroom  catsup. 

Orange  Sauce. — Peel  half  an  orange,  removing  all  the  pith ; cut 
into  slices,  and  then  in  fillets ; put  them  in  a gill  of  water  to  boil  for 
two  minutes ; drain  on  a sieve,  throwing  the  water  away ; place  in 
the  saucepan  two  spoons  of  demi-glaze,  or  ten  of  broth ; and,  when 
boiling,  add  the  orange  and  a little  sugar ; simmer  ten  minutes, 
skim,  and  serve.  The  juice  of  half  an  orange  is  an  improvement. 
This  is  served  with  ducklings  and  water  fowl;  cayenne  and  mustard 
may  be  added  if  liked. 

Oyster  Sauce. — Strain  the  liquor  from  a half  pint  oysters  and 
add  enough  milk  or  water  to  make  one  pint ; stir  in  a half  cup  but- 
ter beaten  to  a cream  with  two  tablespoons  flour.  Let  this  come  to 
a -boil,  add  the  oysters  and  let  them  boil  iq)  once — cooking  long 
hardens  them.  If  wanted  really  nice  the  oysters  should  be  bearded. 
Or  add  a few  drops  lemon  juice  or  vinegar,  a tablespoon  capers,  or 
use  a seasoning  of  cayenne  or  anchovy  sauce.  The  sauce  is  richer 
if  cream  instead  of  water  is  used  in  making  the  drawn  butter,  but 
in  this  case  do  not  add  the  lemon  juice  or  vinegar.  Never  allow  less 


CATSUPS  AND  SAUCES. 


177 


than  six  oysters  to  each  person,  unless  making  a large  quantity. 
Serve  with  fish  or  boiled  poultry.  To  make  Brown  Oyster  Sauce^ 
use  above  ingredients,  stirring  butter  and  flour  together  over  the  fire 
until  a dark  brown,  and  serve  with  boiled  or  stewed  beefsteak. 

Parsley  Sauce.  — Boil  two  tablespoons  parsley  slowly  in 
slightly  salted  water,  drain  and  cut  fine,  and  add  it  to  one-half  pint 
smoothly-made  drawn  butter,  with  one-half  teaspoon  salt  and  a 
tablespoon  vinegar.  Boil  up  and  serve.  If  sauce  is  wanted  to  look 
green  boil  the  other  ingredients  together  and  pour  over  the  scalded 
and  chopped  parsley  already  in  the  gravy  tureen.  Stir  once  or 
twice  and  serve  with  calf’s  head,  boiled  fowl,  etc. 

Shrimp  Sauce. — Free  a pint  of  shrimps  from  bits  of  sea-grass 
and  broken  shells,  throw  them  into  salted  boiling  water,  and  boil 
them  for  a few  moments,  until  the  shells  turn  red,  then  drain  them 
and  break  off  the  heads,  legs  and  shells  ; the  available  part  is  the  flesh 
of  the  tails.  After  the  shrimp  are  prepared,  put  a tablespoon  each 
of  butter  and  flour  in  a saucepan  over  the  fire  and  stir  them  until 
they  are  smoothly  blended ; then  gradually  stir  in  a pint  boiling 
water,  season  the  sauce  with  two  saltspoons  salt  and  a liberal  dust 
of  cayenne,  put  in  the  shrimp,  and  serve  the  sauce  with  boiled  fish. 
Garnish  the  dish  with  a few  whole  shrimps.  Another  method  of 
making  this  sauce  is  to  add  to  a pint  drawn  butter  sauce  a half  can 
shrimps,  flavor  with  two  tablespoons  essence  of  anchovies  or  a tea- 
spoon anchovy  paste.  At  the  last  moment  a few  drops  lemon  juice 
and  a little  cayenne  may  be  added. 

Tartare  Sauce. — Yolks  two  eggs,  gill  salad  oil  or  melted  butter, 
salt-spoon  salt,  half  a salt-spoon  pepper,  a tablespoon  good  cider 
vinegar,  half  teaspoon  each  mustard  and  sugar,  and  a tablespoon 
gherkins.  Beat  together  lightly  in  a small  bowl  the  vinegar  and 
yolks,  add  to  these,  drop  by  drop,  the  salad-oil  or  melted  butter, 
taking  care  to  stir  the  same  way  all  the  time ; when  this  is  done, 
season  the  mixture  with  pepper,  salt,  and  mustard ; add  also  the 
gherkins  finely  chopped  tor  capers  may  be  substituted),  and  serve 
in  a gravy  boat  with  bciled  salmon  or  cold  meats.  Or,  mince  two 
small  English  pickles,  one-fourth  of  an  onion,  and  a few  sprigs  of 
parsley  together.  Add  them  to  three  tablespoons  mayonnaise  sauce 
and  the  juice  of  half  a lemon.  ^lix  and  serve  (see  mayonnaise 
sauce).  A few  tarragon  leaves  will  improve  the  sauce.  This  is 
called  the  perfection  of  sauces  for  fried  fish. 

Tomato  Sauce. — Stew  ten  tomatoes  with  three  cloves,  and  pep- 
per and  salt,  for  fifteen  minutes  (some  add  a sliced  onion  and  a sprig 
of  parsley),  strain  through  a sieve,  put  on  the  stove  in  a saucepan 
in  which  a lump  of  butter  the  size  of  an  egg  and  level  tablespoon 
flour  have  been  well  mixed  and  cooked,  stir  all  until  smooth,  and  if 
wanted  to  remove  seeds  put  through  a sieve,  reheat  and  serve. 

12 


178 


CATSUPS  AND  SAUCES. 


Canned  tomatoes  may  be  used  as  a substitute.  Or  stew  half  a dozen 
tomatoes  in  a pint  stock  with  a slice  of  ham  cut  into  dice,  a bay- 
leaf,  a blade  of  mace,  three  drops  pepper  sauce  and  three  small 
pickled  onions ; stir  the  whole  over  a gentle  fire  until  done,  then 
press  them  tlirough  a sieve,  add  salt,  and  put  the  sauce  again  upon 
the  fire*  till  it  is  very  hot. 

French  Tomato  Sauce. — Cut  tomatoes  into  quarters  and  put 
them  in  saucepan  with  salt  to'  taste,  a good  handful  of  basil,  and 
three  or  four  cloves  of  garlic  ; a little  water  should  be  put  into  the 
saucepan  to  prevent  the  tomatoes  catching.  When  they  are  thor- 
oughly done  turn  them  out  upon  a hair  sieve  and  wait,  till  all  the 
water  has  drained  from  them.  Throw  away  this  water  and  pass  the 
tomatoes  through  the  sieve  ; put  the  pulp  into  a saucepan,  boil  half 
an  hour,  and  a moderate  quantity  of  black  pepper  may  be  added  to 
1 aste.  When  the  sauce  is  quite  cold  put  it  into  wide-mouthed  bot- 
1 les,  cork  tightly  and  tie  up  each  cork  with  string  or  wire  ; dip  the 
neck  of  each  bottle  into  melted  resin  and  they  may  then  be  put  away 
to  be  used  when  required.  The  bottles  should  be  of  moderate  size, 
f ar  once  opened  the  sauce  will  no  longer  keep  good.  If  before  put- 
t.  ng  on  the  wire  the  bottles  of  sauce  are  placed  upright  in  a large 
VBSsel  full  of  cold  water  and  this  is  put  on  the  fire  until  the  water, 
b ails,  the  preservation  will  be  more  certain  still,  and  the  sauce  will 
b eep  good  for  any  length  of  time.  Care  must  be  taken,  however, 
n ot  to  remove  the  bottles  from  the  vessel  until  the  water  has  become 
perfectly  cold. 

White  Sauce. — Stir  one  tablespoon  each  butter  and  flour 
together  over  the  fire  until  smooth,  add  one'pint  milk,  season  with 
s alt  and  white  pepper,  and  let  boil  up  once.  Strain  if  not  perfectly 
smooth.  This  is  the  plain  white  sauce,  so  nice  served  with  vegeta- 
bles, and  which  is  also  used  by  many  as  the  foundation  for  other 
sauces  instead  of  the  rich  drawn  butter.  Brown  Sauce  is  made 
same  way,  stirring  tlie  butter  and  flour  over  the  fire  until  a dark 
brown  color,  and  when  it  is  at  hand  using  a pint  froth  from  boiling 
meat  instead  of  the  milk. 

French  White  Sauce. — As  white  stock  is  the  foundation  of  this 
sauce,  it  must  be  prepared  first  as  folloAvs : Cut  up  four  pounds 
knuckle  of  veal,  any  poultry  trimmings,  and  four  slices  of  lean  ham, 
put  it  into  a saucepan  which  has  been  rubbed  with  butter,  moisten 
with  half  pint  water  and  simmer  till  gravy  begins  to  flow ; then  add 
four  quarts  water,  three  carrots,  two  onions,  one  head  celery,  twelve 
white  pepper-corns,  a blade  of  mace,  bunch  of  herbs,  tablespoon 
each  butter  and  salt.  Simmer  five  hours,  skim,  strain  carefully,  and 
the  White  Stock  is  ready  for  use.  Consomme  is  made  exactly  the 
eame  with  double  the  quantity  of  meat  or  half  the  water.  For  the 
sauce  put  one  pint  stock  in  the  saucepan  with  a small  bunch  pars- 


CATSUPS  AND  SAUCES. 


179 


ley,  two  cloves,  half  bay-leaf,  small  bunch  savory  herbs,  three  or 
four  mushrooms  when  obtainable,  and  salt  to  taste.  When  it  has 
boiled  enough  to  extract  the  flavor  from  the  herbs,  etc.,  strain  and 
boil  up  quickly  again  until  it  is  nearly  half  reduced.  Mix  one  table- 
spoon arrowroot  smoothly  with  a pint  cream  and  simmer  gently  five 
minutes  over  slow  fire  ; add  to  it  the  reduced  stock,  and  if  stock  is 
thick  continue  to  simmer  slowly  for  ten  minutes,  but  if  thin,  stir 
over  brisk  fire  till  it  thickens.  This  is  the  well  known  Bechamel 
Sauce^  and  is  the  foundation  of  many  others,  especially  white 
sauces.  Many  make  it  thick,  as  it  is  easily  thinned  with  cream  or 
white  stock.  To  make  Brown  Stoch:  or  Sauce  stir  three-fourths 
tablespoon  flour  with  a tablespoon  butter  over  the  fire  until  a dark 
brown  color  and  add  to  white  stock. 


Caper  Butter . — Chop  one  tablespoon  capers  very  fine,  rub 
through  a sieve  with  a wooden  spoon,  and  mix  with  a salt-spoon 
salt,  quarter  of  a spoon  pepper,  and  one  ounce  cold  butter.  Put  a 
layer  of  this  butter  on  a dish,  and  serve  fish  on  it. 

Drawn  Butter. — Cut  one-fourth  pound  (or  four  well-rounded 
tablespoons)  butter  up  into  small  pieces,  put  in  saucepan,  dredge 
over  a dessert-spoon  flour,  and  add  four  tablespoons  water  and  a 
seasoning  of  salt ; stir  it  one  way  constantly  till  the  whole  of  the 
ingredients  are  melted  and  thoroughly  blended.  Let  it  just  boil, 
when  it  is  ready  to  serve.  If  the  butter  is  to  be  melted  with  cream, 
use  the  same  quantity  as  of  water,  but  omit  the  flour ; keep  stirring, 
but  do  not  allow  it  to  boil.  Another  way  of  making,  which  is  also 
used  as  a sauce,  is  to  mix  the  flour  and  water,  rubbing  down  all 
lumps  with  a spoon,  and  put  in  a saucepan  with  the  water  and  salt, 
adding  one-half  spoon  Vhite  vinegar  and  a very  little  grated  nut 
meg.  Simmer,  not  boil,  until  it  thickens. 

Lohster  Butter. — Mix  the  spawn  and  coral  of  a lobster  with 
double  the  quantity  of  butter,  a little  cayenne,  and  pound  in  a mor- 
tar to  a paste.  Ma}^  be  used  in  flavoring  lobster  sauce  and  garnish- 
ing or  decorating  cold  salmon,  etc. 

Parsley  Butter. — One-fourth  pound  butter,  two  dessert-spoons 
minced  parsley,  the  juice  of  one  large  lemon  and  salt  and  pepper  to 
taste,  well  worked  together.  Serve  over  or  around  either  meat  or 
fish. 

Caramel  Coloring. — Put  one  cup  sugar  and  two  teaspoons  water 
in  a saucepan  over  the  fire,  stir  constantly  till  it  is  a dark  color,  then 
add  a half  teacup  water  and  a pinch  of  salt,  let  boil  for  a few  mo- 
ments. take  off.  and  when  cold,  bottle. 


180 


CATSUPS  AND  SAUCES. 


Parsley  Coloring. — Procure  nice  young  parsle}^  and  wash  and 
dry  thoroughly  in  a cloth ; pound  the  leaves  in  a mortar  until  all 
the  juice  is  extracted,  and  put  juice  in, teacup  or  small  jar,  set  in  a 
saucepan  of  boiling  water  and  warm  it  just  enough  to  take  off  its 
rawness.  Let  it  drain  and  it  will  be  ready  for  coloring. 

Spinach  Coloring. — Wash  a peck  of  spinach,  pour  on  it  two 
quarts  boiling  water  and  let  it  stand  one  minute.  Pour  off  the 
water,  and  pound  the  spinach  to  a soft  pulp.  Put  this  in  a coarse 
towel  and  squeeze  all  the  juice  into  a small  frying  pan.  (Two  people, 
by  using  the  towel  at  the  same  time,  will  extract  the  juice  more 
thoroughly  than  one  can).  Put  the  pan  on  the  fire,  and  stir  until 
the  juice  is  in  the  form  of  curd  and  whey.  Watch  dosely  and  do 
not  boil.  Turn  on  a sieve,  and  when  all  the  liquor  has  been  drained 
off,  scrape  the  dry  material  from  the  sieve  and  put  away  for  use. 
Another  mode  is  to  put  with  the  juice  in  the  frying-pan  three  table- 
spoons sugar,  and  cook  five  minute^ ; then  bottle  for  use.  This  is 
rcially  the  more  convenient  way.  Spinach  green  is  used  for  coloring 
soups,  sauces  and  creams. 

French  Mustard. — Slice  an  onion  in  a bowl  and  cover  it  with 
good  vinegar;  after  two  days  pour  off.  the  vinegar,  add  to  it  a tea- 
s])oon  each  cayenne  pepper  and  salt,  a tablespoon  sugar,  and  mus- 
ts,rd  enough  to  thicken ; set  on  the  stove  until  it  boils ; when  cold 
it  is  fit  for  use. 

Indian  Mustard. — Put  one-fourth  pound  each  mustard  and 
flour  and  a half  .tablespoon  salt  into  a basin,  and  make  them  into  a 
stiff  paste  with  boiling  water.  Boil  four  shallots  with  four  table- 
spoons each  vinegar  and  catsup,  and  one-fourth  bottle  anchovy 
sauce,  for  ten  minutes,  and  pour  the  whole,  boiling^  over  the  mixture 
in  the  basin ; stir  well,  and  reduce  it  to  a proper  thickness  ; put  it 
into  a bottle,  with  a bruised  shallot  at  the  bottom,  and  store  away 
for  use.  If  properly  prepared  will  keep  for  years.  An  excellent 
relish  for  bread  and  butter  and  very  nice  with  meats. 

Prepared  Mustard. — Three  teaspoons  ground  mustard,  one  of 
flour  (two  if  the  mustard  seems  very  strong),  half  teaspoon  sugar; 
pour  boiled  water  cooled  to  lukewarm  on  these  and  mix  into  a 
smooth,  thick  paste ; when  cold  add  vinegar  enough  to  make  ready 
for  use,  and  serve  with  salt.  This  resembles  the  French  mustard. 
Another  mode  of  preparing  is  to  make  a dressing  of  one  cup  vin- 
egar, two  eggs,  one  tablespoon  each  pepper,  sugar  and  salt,  butter 
size  of  a walnut ; beat  well  and  simmer  over  the  fire  to  cook  the 
eggs  ; then  add  a tablespoon  mustard  wet  in  lukewarm  water.  Mus- 
tard may  be  flavored  in  various  ways,  with  tarragon,  shallot,  celery, 
and  many  other  vinegars,  herbs,  spices,  etc. 

Tartar  Mustard. — Mix  a half  cup  mustard  and  a slight  season- 
ing of  cayenne  with  sufficient  horse-radish  vinegar  to  render  it  per- 


CATSUPS  AND  SAUCES. 


181 


fectly  smooth,  rubbing  lumps  down  with  back  of  spoon,  adding  the 
•jrinegar  a little  at  a time,  and  not  making  it  too  thin. 

Curry  Powder —ki\  ounce  each  ginger,  mustard,  and  pepper, 
three  each  of  coriander  seed  and  turmeric,  one-half  ounce  carda- 
mon, quarter  ounce  each  cayenne  pepper  and  cumin  seed ; pound 
all  fine,  sift  and  cork  tight.  One  teaspoon  of  powder  is  sufficient 
to  season  any  thing.  This  is  nice  for  sauces,  boiled  meats  and  stews. 

Pried  Celery  and  Parsley. — Wash  the  leaves,  stalks,  roots 
and  trimmings  of  celery  and  put  them  in  a cool  oven  to  dry  thor- 
oughly ; then  grate  the  root,  rub  leaves  and  stalks  through  a sieve 
and  put  all  in  tightly  corked  bottle.  Delicious  seasoning  for  sauces, 
soups,  stews  and  dressing.  Save  all  bits  of  parsley  and  preserve  for 
future  use  in  same  manner,  not  using  the  roots  ; or,  take  freshly 
gathered  parsley  and  wash  it  perfectly  free  from  grit  and  dirt ; put 
into  boiling  water  which  has  been  slightly  salted  and  well  skimmed, 
and  then  let  it  boil  for  two  or  three  minutes  ; take  out,  let  drain,  and 
place  on  a sieve  in  front  of  the  fire,  when  it  should  be  dried  as  ex- 
peditiously as  possible.  Store  it  away  in  a very  dry  place  in  bot- 
tles, and  when  wanted  for  use  pour  over  it  a little  warm  water,  and 
let  stand  for  about  five  minutes.  This  may  be  done  any  time  be- 
tween June  and  October.  Celery  salt  is  made  by  mixing  the  root 
dried  and  ground  as  above  with  one-fourth  its  quantity  of  salt.  A 
very  nice  seasoning,  and  will  keep  a long  time. 

Fried  Parsley. — Gather  some  young  parsley  ; wash,  pick,  and 
dry  it  thoroughly  in  a cloth  ; put  it  into  the  wire  egg  basket  and  hold 
it  in  boiling  lard  or  drippings  for  a minute  or  two.  Directly  it  is 
done,  lift  out  basket,  and  let  stand  before  the  fire  that  the  parsley 
may  become  thoroughly  crisp,  and  the  quicker  it  is  fried  the  better. 
Should  the  kitchen  not  be  furnished  with  the  above  article,  throw 
the  parsley  into  the  frying-pan,  and  when  crisp,  lift  it  out,  dry  before 
the  fire,  and  when  thoroughly  crisp  it  will  be  ready  for  use.  This  is 
used  for  garnishing. 

Spiced  Salt. — Dry,  powder,  and  mix  by  repeated  siftings  the 
following : One-fourth  ounce  each  powdered  thyme,  bay-leaf  and 
pepper,  one-eighth  ounce  each  marjoram  and  cayenne  pepper,  one' 
half  ounce  each  powdered  clove  and  nutmeg,  and  to  every  four 
ounces  of  this  powder  add  one  ounce  salt.  Keep  in  an  air-tight 
vessel.  Nice  for  spicing  sauces,  and  one  ounce  of  it  added  to  three 
pounds  stuffing,  or  force  meat  of  any  kind  makes  a delicious  sea- 
soning. 


182 


CHEESE. 


CHEESE. 


The  many  appetizing,  varied  and  really  elegant  dishes  con 
cocted  with  the  aid  of  cheese  by  modern  cooks,  render  this  prod 
net  of  the  dairy  indispensable  to  every  well  appointed  table.  AneJ' 
while  the  opinion  prevails  to  some  extent  in  this  country  tha< 
imported  cheese  is  superior  to  that  of  home  manufacture,  this  is  noi 
by  any  means  true,  as  is  proven  by  the  fact  that  immense  quantities 
of  American  cheese  are  annually  exported,  most  of  which  is  mar^ 
keted  in  England,  where  it  is  eagerly  sought  for.  The  English,  how 
ever,  and  other  foreign  manufacturers,  brand  their  cheese  with  the 
name  of  the  locality  in  which  it  is  made,  and  hence  several  fine 
varieties,  as  the  Stilton,  the  Cheshire,  Gruyere,  Parmesan  and  others 
have  very  justly  become  celebrated.  While  equally  as  good  cheese 
is  manufactured  in  America,  notably  in  New  York  and  Northern 
Ohio,  and  nearly  every  state  has  factories  turning  out  excellent  prod- 
ucts, it  goes  abroad  with  no  distinctive  brand,  and  is  sold  along 
with  other  cheese,  good,  bad  and  indifferent,  simply  under  the  name 
of  American  cheese ; and  as  a buyer  who  may  have  once  been  fortu- 
nate enough  to  secure  a good  American  article  has  no  means  of 
knowing  that  his  next  purchase  will  be  of  the  same  manufacture, 
because  of  the  American  want  of  foresight  in  neglecting  to  properly 
brand  cheese,  and  often  gets  poor  stuff  under  the  same  general  name, 
we  are  placed  at  a great  disadvantage  in  competing  with  foreign 
manufacturers.  Instead  of  aiming  to  make  home  cheese  famous, 
American  manufacturers  have  taken  to  catering  to  the  popular  pre- 


CHEESE. 


183 


judice  in  favor  of  the  imported  article,  and  much  of  what  is  sold  here 
as  English,  Swiss  and  Italian  cheese,  is  made  upon  our  own  shores, 
and  is  of  such  excellent  quality  that  the  most  pi’ejudiced  cannot  dis- 
tinguish between  it  and  the  real  imported  brand. 

Cheese  varies  in  quality  and  richness  according  to  the  quality 
of  the  materials  of  which  it  is  composed,  and  is  made  of  the  “entire” 
milk — new  milk,  or  milk  Avith  the  cream  unskimmed — of  milk  and 
cream,  that  is,  the  morning’s  milk  Avith  the  cream  of  the  evening 
before;  of  ncAV  milk  mixed  AAuth  skimmed  milk,  and  of  skimmed 
milk  only.  Strong,  means  of  a high  flavor  and  odor  but  not  neces- 
sarily sharp.  Most  ncAV  cheeses  are  relatively  mild,  and  develop 
their  characteristics,  especially  sharpness,  Avith  age.  The  Romans 
smoked  their  cheese  to  give  it  a sharp  taste.  The  most  celebrated 
V arieties  of  the  foreign  cheeses  are  the  folloAAung  : The  Parmesan,  a 
hard,  high  flaAmred  article,  slightly  sharp,  manufactured  in  Parma 
and  Piacenza,  Italy,  AAdiich  is  supposed  to  get  its  flavor  from  the  rich 
herbage  of  the  pastures  of  the  river  Po,  is  made  entirely  of  skimmed 
milk,  and  the  best  is  that  which  has  been  kept  three  or  four  years, 
none  being  marketed  under  six  months  ; it  is  highly  prized  for  grat- 
ing and  cooking.  The  best  English  cheeses  are  the  Stilton,  Ches- 
hire and  Cheddar,  the  first  of  Avhich  is  finest  and  richest,  made  from 
cream  and  milk,  and  requires  tAvo  years  to  ripen ; the  Cheshire  is 
made  of  entire  milk,  and  the  Cheddar,  of  mild  flavor,  is  made  of 
skimmed  milk,  like  the  Parmesan,  which  it  much  resembles ; the 
Dunlop  is  the  only  Scotch  cheese  Avell  knoAvn  in  America,  and  has  a 
peculiarly  mild  and  rich  taste ; the  Gruyere  is  the  best  of  the  SAviss 
cheeses  and  has  a fine  flavor,  but  the  Neufchatel,  which  comes  in 
little  rolls  about  an  inch  thick  and  three  inches  long,  is  perhaps  best 
knoAvn  in  America  and  is  cheap  and  delicious  ;•  care  must  be  taken 
when  purchasing  to  see  that  it  is  not  musty.  The  German  Limburger, 
a very  strong  cheese,  AA^hich  is  not  considered  fit  for  consumption 
until  partly  putrefied,  is  Avell  knoAvn  here.  French  cheeses  are  gen- 
erally for  winter  consumption,  and  come  to  us  only  from  October  to 
May.  The  best  knoAvn  here  are  the  Brie,  made  of  cream,  and  Avhich 
comes  in  flat,  round  boxes  Aveighing  usually  four  pounds,  and  the 
Roquefort,  a mixture  of  the  milk  of  goats  and  sheep,  made  in  same 
shape  and  size ; the  Dutchman’s  Head,  or  Edam,  from  Holland, 
prized  principally  for  grating  and  cooking,  is  also  sold  here.  The 
American  cheeses  are  the  Pineapple,  Avhich  is  double  the  price  of 


184 


CHEESE. 


ordinary  cheese,  imitations  of  English  Dairy,  American  Factory,  and 
California  cheese,  which  is  only  about  half  the  weight  and  thickness 
of  Eastern,  and  instead  of  being  incased  in  a round  wooden  box  like 
the  Eastern,  is  handled  loose  or  naked  in  the  wholesale  market. 
None  of  the  American  cheeses  are  classed  among  strong  cheeses. 
They  are  good  all  the  year  round.  The  foreign  varieties,  or  equally 
as  good  American  imitations,  may  all  he  had  in  the  larger  cities, 
while  excellent,  if  not  the  best,  American  factory  cheese  is  obtainable 
everywhere.  Sage  cheese  is  made  by  the  addition  of  bruised  sage 
leaves  to  the  curd,  which  imparts  a greenish  color  and  a flavor  liked 
by  many.  Cream  cheese  is  not  properly  a cheese,  although  so  called, 
but  is  simply  cream  dried  sufflciently  to  be  cut  with  a knife.  Cheese 
from  milk  and  potatoes  is  manufactured  in  Thuringia  and  Saxony. 
Cheese  may  be  had  in  small,  round  shapes,  brickbats,  the  thin  Cali- 
fornia cheeses,  etc.,  as  well  as  shaped  in  the  ordinary  large  round 
hoop,  or  by  the  pound  therefrom.  All  cheese,  except  the  foreign 
skim-milk  makes,  contains  more  or  less  coloring  matter,  principally 
annatto,  turmeric,  or  marigold,  all  perfectly  harmless  unless  they  are 
adulterated. 

In  families  where  much  cheese  is  consumed,  and  it  is  bought  in 
large  quantities,  a piece  from  the  whole  cheese  should  be  cut,  the 
larger  quantity  spread  with  a thickly  buttered  sheet  of  white  paper, 
and  the  outside  occasionally  wiped.  To  keep  cheese  moist  a damp 
cloth  should  be  wrapped  round  it  (wet  with  white  wine  or  alcohol  is 
better),  and  the  cheese  put  into  a pan  or  crock  kept  covered  in  a 
cool  but  not  very  dry  place.  To  ripen  cheeses,  and  bring  them  for- 
ward, put  them  into  a damp  cellar,  and  to  check  the  production  of 
mites  spirits  may  be  poured  into  the  parts  affected.  Pieces  of  cheese 
which  are  too  near  ‘the  rind,  or  too  dry  to  put  on  table,  may  be 
made  into  Welsh  rare-bits,  or  grated  down  and  mixed  with  maca- 
roni. Cheeses  may  be  preserved  in  a perfect  state  for  years,  by 
covering  them  with  parchment  made  pliable  by  soaking  in  water,  or 
by  rubbing  them  over  with  a coating  of  melted  fat.  The  cheeses  se- 
lected should  be  free  from  cracks  or  bruises  of  any  kind.  The  usual 
mode  of  serving  cheese  is  to  cut  a small  quantity 
of  it  into  neat  square  pieces,  and  to  put  them  into  a 
glass  cheese-dish,  this  dish  being  handed  round. 

Should  the  cheese  crumble  much,  of  course  this  Dish  of  Cheese, 
method  is  rather  wasteful  and  it  may  then  be  put  on  the  table  in  the 


CHEESE. 


185 


piece,  and  the  host  may  cut  from  it.  When  served  thus,  the  cheese 
must  always  be  carefully  scraped,  and  laid  on  a white  doyley  or 
napkin,  neatly  folded.  Cream-cheese  is  often  served  in  a cheese 
course,  and,  sometimes,  grated  Parmesan the  latter  should  be  put 
into  a colored  glass  dish.  Rusks,  cheese-biscuits,  and  salad,  or 
water-cress,  should  always  form  part  of  a cheese  course,  which  is 
served  just  before  the  dessert.  It  is  English  to  serve  celery  or  cucum- 
bers with  it.  Thin  milk  crackers  or  wafer  biscuits  (put  into  the 
oven  just  a moment  before  serving,  to  make  them  crisp)  should  be 
served  with  cheese ; butter  also  for  spreading  the  crackers,  this  being 
the  only  time  that  it  is  usually  allowed  for  dinner.  Macaroni  with 
cheese,  AVelsh  rare-bits,  cheese  omelets,  or  little  cheese  cakes,  are 
good  substitutes  for  a cheese-course.  In  serving  a Stilton  cheese, 
the  top  of  it  should  be  cut  off  to  form  a lid,  and  a napkin  or  piece 
of  white  paper  with  a frill  at  the  top,  pinned  round.  When  the 
cheese  goes  from  table,  the  lid  should  be  replaced.  Those  made  in 
May  or  June  are  usually  served  at  Christmas;  or,  to  be  in  prime 
order,  should  be  kept  from  ten  to  twelve  months,  or  even  longer. 
An  artificial  ripeness  in  Stilton  cheese  is  sometimes  produced  by 
inserting  a small  piece  of  decayed  Cheshire  into  an  aperture  at  the 

From  three  weeks  to  a month  is  sufficient 
to  ripen  the  cheese.  An  additional  flavor 
also  be  obtained  by  scooping  out  a piece 
the  top,  and  pouring  therein  port,  sherry, 
3ria,  or  old  ale,  and  letting  the  cheese  ab- 
these  for  two  or  three  weeks.  But  that 
Stilton  Cheese.  cheeseis  the  finest  which  is  ripened  without  any 
Artificial  aid,  is  the  opinion  of  those  who  are  judges  in  these  matters. 
A dry  cheese  is  best  for  grating,  and  the  Parmesan,  Edam  and  Ched- 
dar are  largely  used  for  this  purpose,  but  any  dry 
cheese  or  bits  left  over  may  be  utilized.  If  the  kind 
called  for  in  any  of  the  following  recipes  is  not  at 
hand,  use  the  ordinary  cheese.  Serve  as  hot  and  as 
quickly  as  possible,  for  if  allowed  to  cool  the  flavor 
and  quality  of  the  melted  or  cooked  cheese  is 
spoiled.  In  buying  cheese,  that  which  feels  soft  cheese  Bucket, 
between  the  fingers  is  richest  and  best.  When  mites  have  taken  pos- 
ession  of  a cheese,  and  one  wishes  to  use  it,  the  following  recipe 
will  have  the  effect  of  destroying  them  without  injury  to  the  cheese  ; 


186 


CHEESE. 


Wipe  the  cheese,  put  it  into  a pot  in  which  mutton  has  been  cooked, 
whilst  the  water  is  yet  hot,  make  the  water  boil  a few  seconds,  take 
out  cheese,  wipe  immediately,  dry  and  then  put  it  away  in  a dry 
place  until  required  for  use.  The  cheese  bucket  illustrated  will 
be  found  the  most  convenient  receptacle  for  cheese,  the  close-fitting 
cover  excluding  air  and  insects,  and  is  much  more  easily  moved 
about  thc^a  a crock. 


Cheese  Cakes. — Take  twelve  ounces  curd  made  as  in  recipe  for 
cream  cheese,  (product  of  four  quarts  milk),  half  cup  each  sugar, 
and  butter,  four  yolks  of  eggs  and  a pinch  of  salt,  flavoring  with 
grated  lemon  rind,  or  extract  and  nutmeg.  Rub  the  curd,  as  taken 
from  the  draining  cloth,  through  a puree  sieve,  add  the  other  in- 
gredients and  mix  well  together.  Line  patty-pans  with  paste,  near- 
ly All  with  the  mixture,  bake  about  fifteen  minutes.  The  curd 
mixture,  though  seemingly  too  firm  at  first,  melts  and  puffs  up  in 
the  oven.  Dredge  powdered  sugar  over  the  tops  when  done.  These 
are  very  delicious.  As  substitutes  for  rennet  curd,  which  is  as  sweet 
as  pounded  almonds,  the  curd  of  sour  milk  and  the  curd  of  a custard 
that  is  spoiled  through  letting  it  boil,  can  be  used  if  prepared  by 
scalding  and  draining  in  the  same  way,  but  will  not  be  quite  so 
good. 

Cheese  Cmsts. — Cut  stale  bread  in  slices  about  two  inches  and 
a half  thick ; trim  off  crust,  place  on  a baking-pan  and  on  each  slice 
of  bread  put  a heaping  tablespoon  of  any  mild  cheese  grated,  or  a 
very  thin  layer  of  strong,  rich  cheese ; on  the  top  of  the  cheese  put 
very  little  salt  and  pepper,  and  a bit  of  butter,  and  set  the  pan  in  a 
hot  oven  just  long  enough  to  slightly  brown  the  crusts  ; watch  them, 
because  they  should  only  be  browned  a little ; let  them  cool  on  the 
baking-pan,  and  then  transfer  them,  without  breaking  them  or  dis- 
turbing the  cheese,  to  the  dish  on  which  they  are  to  be  served. 
Cheese  crusts  may  be  used  at  family  dinners  as  a sort  of  dessert,  or 
served  at  dinner  or  luncheon  with  any  green  salad  or  celery. 


Cheese  Diablotins.  — Put  a gill  milk  in  a stewpan,  with  two 
tablespoons  butter ; when  boiling,  stir  in  two  tablespoons  flour,  keep 
stirring  over  the  fire  until  the  bottom  of  the  stew- 
^ pan  is  dry,  then  add  four  eggs  by  degrees,  and  a 

pound  grated  clieese  ; mix  well,  season  Avith  pep- 

Diabiotina.  per.  Salt,  and  cayenne,  rather  highly,  mold  the 
paste  into  balls  with  the  forefinger  against  the  side  of  the  steAA^pan 
containing  it,  drop  them  into  hot  lard ; fry  of  a nice  light  broAvn, 
and  serve  very  hot ; a quarter  of  this  quantity  may  of  course  be 
made.  An  excellent  dish. 


CHEESE. 


187 


Cheese  Fingers. — Roll  pie  paste  out  thin  and  cut  into  strips 
about  four  inches  long  and  one  and  one-half  wide ; strew  each 
thickly  with  grated  cheese,  season  with  pepper  and  salt,  double  the 
paste  lengthwise,  enclosing  the  cheese,  pinch  the  edges  and  bake  in 
quick  oven,  ^yash  over  with  beaten  egg  just  before  taking  out  and 
sift  a little  powdered  cheese  on  top.  Shut  oven  door  a moment  to 
glaze  them  well ; pile  log-cabin  fashion  on  a napkin  in  a warm  dish 
and  serve  hot. 

Cheese  Fondu. — There  are  many  ways  of  preparing  this  dish,  of 
which  the  following  are  considered  the  best : Four  eggs,  the  weight 
of  two  in  cheese,  Parmesan  or  Cheshire  if  obtainable,  the  weight  of 
two  in  butter ; pepper  and  salt  to  taste.  Separate  the  yolks  from 
the  whites  of  the  eggs ; beat  the  former  in  a basin  and  grate  the 
cheese,  or  cut  it  into  very  thin  flakes.  Break  the  butter  into  small 
pieces,  add  it  to  the  other  ingredients  with  sufficient  pepper  and  salt 
1 3 season  nicely,  and  beat  the  mixture  thoroughly.  Well  whisk  the 
'^1  whites  of  eggs,  stir  them  lightly  in  last,  and  put  into  oven  as  quickly 
as  possible.  Bake  in  a souffle  dish  or  small  round  cake  tin.  Fill 
only  half  full,  as  it  should  rise  very  much.  Pin  napkin  round  the 
dish  if  there  is  no  ornamental  receptacle,  and  serve  very  hot  and 
quickly.  If  allowed  to  stand  after  taken  from  the  oven,  the  beauty 
aad  lightness  of  the  fondu  will  be  completely  spoiled.  If  one  has 
not  an  ornamental  receptacle,  a pretty  way  of  serving  is  to  line  the 
baking  pan  with  paper  cut  in  a fringe  at  the  top.  Or  bake  in  indi- 
vidual molds  or  tins  of  small  size  lined  thus  with  paper,  or  in  thick 
paper  molds  of  any  fancied  form,  remembering  that  they  must  be 
only  half  filled  when  put  in  oven.  Another  excellent  recipe  is  to 
take  as  many  eggs  as  there  are  to  be  persons  at  table,  weigh  them  in 
the  shell,  and  take  one-third  their  weight  in  the  best  cheese  to  be 
had,  and  one-sixth  as  much  butter  as  cheese.  To  the  well-beaten 
eggs  add  the  grated  cheese  and  the  butter  broken  into  small  pieces, 
and  stir  together  with  a wooden  spoon ; put  over  the  fire  and  stir 
until  thick  and  soft ; add  salt  and  pepper  to  taste  and  serve  on  very 
hot  silver  or  metal  plate.  Do  not  allow  the  fondu  to  remain  on  the 
fire  after  the  mixture  is  set,  for  if  it  boils  it  will  be  entirely  spoiled. 
Or,  take  one  cup  bread-crumbs,  very  dry  and  fine,  two  scant  cups  of 
milk,  rich  and  fresh  or  it  will  curdle,  one-half  pound  dry  old  cheese, 
grated,  three  eggs  whipped  very  light,  one  small  tablespoon  melted 
butter,  pepper  and  salt  to  taste,  and  a pinch  of  soda  dissolved  in  hot 
water  and  stirred  into  the  milk  ; soak  the  crumbs  in  the  milk,  beat 
into  these  the  eggs,  butter  and  seasoning,  and  lastly  the  cheese.  But- 
ter a neat  baking  dish,  pour  the  fondu  into  it,  strew  dry  bread- 
crumbs on  the  top  and  bake  in  a rather  quick  oven  until  delicately 
browned.  Serve  immediately  in  the  baking  dish,  as  it  soon  falls. 
Economical  and  delicious. 

Cheese  Fritters. — Put  six  tablespoons  flour  in  a bowl  and  pour 
a half  tablespoon  melted  butter  into  the  center ; add  to  this,  by 


188 


CHEESE. 


degrees,  eight  tablespoons  tepid  water,  beating  all  the  time,  yolk  of 
one  egg,  half  teaspoon  each  pepper  and  dry  mustard,  and.  three 
heaping  tablespoons  grated  Parmesan  cheese,  • and  last  the  welh 
beaten  white.  Drop  a tablespoon  at  a time  into  hot  clarified  fat  or 
lard.  As  the  fritters  brown  and  rise  to  top,  turn  and  brown  the 
other  side;  place  piece  of  kitchen  paper  (any  clean,  coarse  brown 
paper)  in  a baking  pan  in  open  oven  and  put  the  browned  fritters 
upon  it  for  a moment  that  the  paper  may  absorb  the  fat,  then  serve 
upon  a hot  plate  covered  with  a hot  napkin  and  .garnished  with 
sprigs  of  parsley. 

Cheese  Omelet. — Beat  up  eggs  as  for  ordinary  omelet  (see  Eggs) 
and  add  to  them  the  cheese  cut  in  small  pieces,  a tablespoon  to 
three  eggs.  The  cheese  may  be  stirred  in  quickly  just  before  fry- 
ing, or  strewn  over  the  omelet  in  the  pan.  A seasoning  of  salt  and 
pepper  should  be  added  after  putting  in  pan.  Parmesan  cheese 
should  be  grated  and  beaten  in  with  the  eggs,  adding  a little  more 
just  before  folding  the  omelet,  and  serving  with  the  grated  cheese 
sprinkled  on  top.  Serve  as  hot  as  possible  and  it  will  be  delicious. 

Cheese  Pudding. — One-half  pound  dry  cheese,  grated  fine,  one 
cup  dry  bread-crumbs,  four  well-beaten  eggs,  one  cup  minced  meat— 
one-third  ham,  two-thirds  fowl — one  cup  milk  and  one  of  good 
gravy — veal  or  fowl — one  teaspoon  butter,  and  a pinch  of  soda  in 
the  milk  ; season  with  pepper  and  a very  little  salt.  Stir  ' the  milk 
into  the  beaten  eggs,  then  the  bread-crumbs,  seasoning,  and  meat ; 
lastly  the  cheese.  Beat  up  well,  but  not  too  long,  else  the  milk  may 
curdle  in  spite  of  the  soda.  Butter  a mold,  pour  in  the  pudding, 
cover,  and  boil  three-quarters  of  an  hour  steadily.  Turn  out  upon 
a hot  dish  and  pour  the  gravy  over  it.  Or,  grate  three  ounces  cheese 
and  five  of  bread ; and  having  warmed  one  ounce  butter  in  a quar- 
ter pint  new  milk,  mix  it  with  the  above,  add  two  well-beaten  eggs 
and  a little  salt.  Bake  half  an  hour. 

Cheese  Pud's. — Three  ounces  cream  curd,  one  quart  rich  milk 
curdled  with  rennet,  one  gill  milk,  one  tablespoon  butter,  one  cup 
flour,  two  ounces  grated  cheese,  three  eggs.  Have  the  curd  scalded 
and  drained  dry,  as  in  making  cheese  or  smearkase.  Boil  the  milk 
with  the  butter  in  it,  drop  in  the  flour  all  at  once  and  stir  the  paste 
over  the  fire  a few  minutes  ; take  off  fire  and  put  in  the  curd  and  the 
grated  cheese,  and  pound  the  mixture  smooth ; then  add  the  eggs 
one  at  a time  and  beat  them  in.  Drop  spoonfuls  of  this  mixture 
into  patty-pans,  lined  thinly  with  pie  paste,  and  bake  in  a slack 
oven  ; or  else  roll  mixture  very  thin,  cut  in  triangular  shapes,  put  a 
spoonful  of  the  mixture  in  the  middle  and  pinch  up  the  sides  like  a 
three-cornered  hat,  and  bake  on  a biscuit  pan.  They  will  open  out 
in  baking.  Good  to  eat  with  apple-sauce. 

Cheese  Relish. — Place  small  piece  butter  in  frying-pan  with 
one-fourth  pound  thinly  sliced  fresh  cheese  and  pour  over  it  a cup 


CHEESE. 


189 


sweet  milk,  quarter  teaspoon  dry  mustard,  pinch  salt  and  pepper, 
stirring  all  the  time,  then  add  gradually  three  finely  rolled  crackers 
and  serve  at  once  in  a warm  dish. 

Cheese  Sandwiches. — Rub  yolks  of  three  hard  boiled  eggs  to  a 
smooth  paste  with  one  tablespoon  melted  butter,  season  with  pepper 
and  salt,  and  work  in  one-fourth  pound  good  English  cheese,  grated, 
or  any  cheese  may  be  used.  Spread  the  mixture  on  very  thin  slices 
of  bread,  and  fold.  Or  place  slices  of  good  rich  cheese  half  an  inch 
thick  between  slices  of  brown-bread  and  butter,  set  them  on  a plate 
in  oven  until  well  toasted  and  serve  on  napkin  quickly  while  very 
hot. 


Cheese  SouMe. — Two  tablespoons  butter,  one  heaping  table- 
spoon flour,  half  cup  milk,  cup  grated  cheese,  three  eggs,  half  tea- 
spoon salt,  speck  of  cayenne.  Put  the  butter  in  the  saucepan  and 
w^hen  hot  add  the  flour  and  stir  until  smooth  but  not  browned,  add 
the  milk  and  seasoning  and  cook  two  minutes,  then  add  the  well 
beaten  yolks  of  eggs  and  the  cheese ; set  away  to  cool ; when  cold 
add  the  stiffly  frothed  whites,  turn  into  a buttered  souffle  pan  or 
baking  dish  and  bake  from  twenty  to  twenty-five  minutes.  Serve  the 
moment  it  comes  from  the  oven.  The  dish  in  which  this  is  baked 
should  hold  a quart. 

Cheese  So^ip. — Mix  one  and  a half  cups  flour  with  one  pint  rich 
cream,  four  tablespoons  each  butter  and  grated  Parmesan  cheese 
wdth  a speck  of  ca^^enne ; place  the  basin  in  another  of  hot  water 
and  stir  until  the  mixture  becomes  a smooth,  firm  paste  ; break  into 
it  two  eggs  and  mix  quickly  and  thoroughly,  cook  two  minutes 
longer  and  set  away  to  cool ; when  cold  roll  into  little  balls  size  of 
American  walnut.  When  the  balls  are  all  formed  drop  them  into 
boiling  water  and  cook  gently  five  minutes;  ]ait  them  in  a soup- 
tureen  and  pour  three  quarts  of  clear  boiling  soup-stock  over  them. 
Pass  a plate  of  finely  grated  Parmesan  cheese  with  the  soup. 


Cheese  Yol  au  Vents. — Cut  rounds  of  bread  from  slices  an  inch 
thick,  cut  out  an  inner  round,  leaving  a shallow 
cavity.  Dip  in  beaten  egg  and  fry  a light  brown. 

Then  fill  the  cavities  with  a mixture  made  by  stir- 
ring into  a half  cup  of  boiling  water  one  table-  Cheese  Vol  au  Vents, 
spoon  butter  and  five  tablespoons  grated  cheese,  and  when  this  is 
melted  the  well -beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs.  Season  with  pepper  and 
salt,  beat  together  one  minute  and  put  in  a handful  bread-crumbs. 
After  filling  the  rounds  of  fried  bread  brown  very  quickly  in  oven  and 
serve  on  folded  napkin. 


Cheese  Straws. — Sift  six  ounces  flour  on  the  pastry-board,  make 
a hole  or  well  in  the  center ; into  this  Avell  put  two  tablespoons 
cream,  three  ounces  grated  Parmesan,  or  any  rich  dry  cheese,  four 
ounces  butter,  half  a level  teaspoon  salt,  quarter  salt-spoon  each 


190 


. CHEESE. 


pepper  and  grated  nutmeg,  together  with  as  much  cayenne  as  can 
be  taken  up  on  the  point  of  a very  small  penknife  blade ; mix  all 
these  ingredients  with  the  tips  of  the  fingers  to  a firm  paste,  knead 
it  well,  roll  it  out  an  eighth  of  an  inch  thick,  and  with  a sharp  knife 
or  pastry  j agger  cut  it  in  straws  about  eight  inches  long  and  quar- 
ter of  an  inch  wide  ; lay  the  strips  carefully  on  a buttered  tin,  and 
bake  them  light  straw  color  in  a moderate  oven.  These  cheese 
straws  make  a delicious  accompaniment  to  salad,  and  may  be  served 
as  a course  at  dinner,  either  with  or  without  crackers,  but  always 
with  a dressed  green  salad,  or  with  plain  celery.  Another  mode  of 
making  is  to  rub  four  tablespoons  sifted  flour  with  two  of  butter, 
and  four  of  grated  cheese,  add  one  egg  and  season  with  salt  and 
cayenne  pepper,  roll  very  thin,  cut  in  narrow  strips  three  inches  in 
length,  and  mold  either  into  straws  or  tie  in  true  lover’s  knots,  bake 
a pale  brovm  in  a hot  oven  and  serve  hot  on  napkin,  with  salads. 
Four  tablespoons  bread-crumbs  may  be  used  instead  of  the  egg,  and 
the  straws  made  thus  are  often  served  cold  for  luncheon  or  tea. 
Still  another  excellent  recipe  is  two  cups  grated  cheese,  one-third 
cup  butter,  cayeniK^to  taste,  three-fourths  cup  flour,  or  enough  to 
roll  as  pie-crust,  one-half  cup  warm  water;  beat  all  to- 
gether,  roll  out  and  cut  in  naa-row  strips  four  inches  long, 
and  bake  on  writing  paper  in  a hot  oven,  to  a lightbrown. 

Or,  mix  three-quarters  pint  grated  cheese,  pint  flour,  pinch 
salt;  with  lard  as  pie  crust,  roll  and  finish  as  above.  Serve  Cheese  Stniw?. 
with  salad,  piled  on  plate,  crossing  them  in  pairs  and  tying 
wi  .'h  ribbon  of  different  colors ; or,  bake  in  eight-inch  lengths  and 
idi-ve  in  log-cabin  style.  Use  cream,  milk  or  water  for  mixing. 

Cheese  loith  Celery. — One-half  cup  each  grated  cheese,  gravy 
and  butter,  or  poultry  fat,  two  cups  celery  cut  small,  and  a little 
pepper  and  salt.  The  celery  should  be  in  pieces  about  an  inch  long 
split  to  look  like  macaroni ; boil  ten  minutes  in  water,  drain,  mix  in 
the  cheese,  butter,  pepper  and  salt,  and  bake  in  a pan,  basting  the 
top  with  spoonfuls  of  the  meat  gravy.  Serve  like  a vegetable  in 
tureen  or  individual  dishes. 

Cheese  with  Crackers. — Soak  in  boiling  water  round  milk 
crackers  split  in  two,  take  them  out  carefully  so  as  not  to  break 
them ; make  layers  of  these  slices  in  a little  grcitin  dish  or  a deep 
baking-dish,  each  slice  buttered,  spread  with  a little  made  mustard, 
and  sprinkled  with  pepper,  salt,  and  plenty  of  grated  cheese.  When 
all  is  prepared,  bake  them  in  a hot  oven  for  ten  minutes. 

Cheese  vjith  Eggs. — Cut  hard-boiled  eggs  into  slices  and  lay  in 
a well-buttered  dish  that  has  been  sprinkled  with  bread-crumbs,  and 
place  on  each  slic>e  of  egg  a slice  of  Gruyere  cheese  of  same  shape 
and  size ; place  a bit  of  butter  on  each,  pepper  well,  sift  a few  bread- 
crumbs over  and  put  into  good  oven  for  about  five  minutes.  Serve 
as  hot  as  possible 


CHEESE. 


191 


Cheese  with  Macaroni. — Put  a pint  milk  and  two  pints  water 
into  a s-aucepan  with  sufficient  salt  to  flavor  it;  place  it  on  the  flie 
and  when  it  boils  quickly  drop  in  a half  pound  pipe  macaroni. 
Keep  the  water  boiling  until  it  is  quite  tender  (an  hour  or  more), 
drain  the  macaroni  and  put  it  into  a deep  dish.  Have  ready  six 
ounces  grated  cheese,  either  Parmesan  or  Cheshire,  sprinkle  it 
amongst  the  macaroni  and  some  of  the  butter  cut  into  small  pieces, 
reserving  some  of  the  cheese  for  the  top  layer.  Season  with  a little 
pepper,  and  cover  the  top  layer  of  cheese  with  some  very  flne  bread- 
crumbs. Warm,  without  oiling,  the  remainder  of  one-fourth  pound 
butter,  and  pour  it  gently  over  the 
bread-crumbs.  Place  the  dish  before  a 
bright  fire  to  brown  the  crumbs  ; turn 
it  once  or  twice  that  it  may  be  equally  salamander, 

colored,  and  serve  very  hot.  The  top  of  the  macaroni  may  be 
browned  with  a salamander,  which  is  even  better  than  placing  it  be- 
fore the  fire,  as  the  process  is  more  expeditious ; but  it  should  nevei 
be  browned  in  the  oven,  as  the  butter  would  oil  and  so  impart  a 
very  disagreeable  flavor  to  the  dish.  In  boiling  the  macaroni,  let  it 
be  perfectly  tender  but  firm,  no  part  beginning  to  melt,  and  the  form 
entirely  preserved.  It  may  be  boiled  in  plain  water,  with  a little 
salt,  instead  of  using  milk,  but  should  then  have  a small  piece  of 
butter  mixed  with  it.  Sufficient  for  six  or  seven  persons. 

Cottage  Cheese. — Set  a gallon  or  more  of  clabbered  milk  on  the 
stove  hearth,  or  back  of  stove,  or  in  the  oven  after  cooking  a meal, 
leaving  the  door  open  ; turn  it  around  frequently,  and  cut  the  curd 
into  squares  Avith  a knife,  stirring  gently  now  and  then  till  about  as 
Avarm  as  the  finger  Avill  bear,  and  the  AAdrey  shoAvs  all  around  the 
curd;  pour  all  into  a coarse  bag  and  hang  to  drain  in  a cool  place 
for  three  or  four  liours,  or  overnight  if  made  in  the  evening.  When 
Avanted,  turn  from  the  bag,  chop  rather  coarse  Avith  a knife  and  dress 
AAuth  salt,  pepper  and  SAveet  cream.  Some  mash  and  rub  thoroughlf^ 
AAuth  the  cream ; others  dress  AAuth  sugar,  cream  and  a little  nutmeg, 
omitting  the  salt  and  pepper.  Another  Avay  is  to  chop  fine,  add  salt 
to  taste,  AAmrk  in  a A^ery  little  cream  or  butter,  and  mold  into  round 
balls.  If  Avanted  to  serve  immediately,  drain  the  curd  through  a col- 
ander, pressing  out  all  the  AAffiey  possible  Avith  the  back  of  a spoon, 
dress  as  above  as  soon  as  cold  and  send  to  table,  cutting  the  top  of 
cheese  in  little  squares. 

('ream  Cheese. — Take  three  pints  thick  cream  and  put  it  into  a 
clean  Avet  cloth,  adding  a teaspoon  salt  after  the  cream  is  sour;  tie 
it  up  and  hang  it  in  a cool  place  for  seven  or  eight  days ; take  it 
from  the  cloth  and  put  it  in  another  and  then  into  a mold  Avith  a 
AA'eight  upon  it  for  tAvo  or  three  days  longer.  Turn  it  tAvice  a day, 
AA'hen  it  aauII  be  fit  to  use  Sour  cream  may  be  made  into 
cheese  same  Avay.  If  Avanted  to  ripen  quickl}^  coA^er  AA'ith 


192 


CHEESE. 


’[Hint  or  nettle  leaves.  Or  take  a small  pan  of  fresh  morning’s  milk, 
ivarm  from  the  cow  is  best,  and  mix  with  the  cream  skimmed  from 
an  equal  quantity  of  the  last  night’s  milk.  Warm  it  to  blood  heat, 
])Our  into  it  a cup  of  water  in  which  a piece  of  rennet  the  size  of  two 
fingers  has  soaked  all  night,  and  put  it  in  a warm  place  till  the  curd 
luis  formed.  Cut  the  curd  into  squares,  put  it  in  a thin  straining 
cloth,  squeeze  it  dry,  then  crumble  and  salt  it  to  taste.  Wash  the 
straining  cloth,  lay  it  in  the  cheese  hoop  (a  bottomless  vessel  the 
size  of  a dinner  plate  perforated  with  small  holes),  put  the  crumbled 
curd  into  the  cloth  and  fold  the  rest  of  the  cloth  over  it.  Put  on  the 
cover  and  set  a weight  on  it.  In  six  hours  turn  the  cheese,  and  let 
stand  six  hours  longer.  Then  take  it  out,  rub  it  with  fresh  butter, 
and  set  it  in  a dark,  dry  place.  Turn  it  every  day  for  four  or  five 
days,  when  it  is  fit  for  use,  and  it  must  be  eaten  immediately  when 
cut.  It  will  keep  but  a few  days,  even  in  cold  weather.  To  make  a 
])lain  family  cream  cheese,  take  three  half  pints,  milk  to  one-half 
pint  cream,  warm  it  and  put  in  a little  rennet ; keep  it  covered  in  a 
n.  arm  place  till  it  is  curdled ; put  the  curds  into  the  colander  on  a 
doth  to  drain  about  an  hour,  serve  with  good  plain  cream  and 
})ounded  sugar  over  it.  To  color,  pound  fresh  sage  leaves  in  a mor- 
tar to  obtain  the  juice,  and  mix  it  with  the  milk  while  warm  after 
the  rennet  is  put  in.  Spinach  juice  is  an  improvement. 

Potato  Cheese. — Boil  good  white  potatoes,  and  when  cool,  peel 
them  and  grate  or  mash  them  to  a light  pulp  ; to  five  pounds  of  this, 
V hich  must  he  free  from  lumps,  add  a pint  of  sour  milk  and  salt  to 
taste ; knead  the  whole  welly  cover  it,  and  leave  it  for  three  or  four 
days,  according  to  the  season ; then  knead  it  afresh,  and  put  the 
cheeses  into  small  baskets,  when  they  will  part  with  their  superflu- 
ous moisture ; dry  them  in  the  shade,  and  place  them  in  layers  in 
large  pots  or  kegs,  where  they  may  remain  a fortnight.  The  older 
they  are  the  finer  they  become.  This  cheese,  it  is  said,  never  engen- 
ders worms,  and  in  well  closed  vessels,  in  a dry  place,  will  keep  for 
years.  This  is  celebrated  in  various  parts  of  Europe. 

Poiioded  Cheese. — To  every  pound  cheese  allow  three  table- 
spoons butter.  Cut  cheese  into  small  pieces  and  pound  smoothly 
in  mortar  (or  use  a bowl  and  potato  masher),  then  thoroughly  mix 
the  butter  with  it;  press  into  a jar,  cover  with  clarified  butter  audit 
will  keep  several  days.  A good  way  to  dispose  of  dry  cheese ; very 
nice  for  sandwiches,  and  the  best  mode  of  preparing  for  those  whose 
digestion  is  weak.  May  be  flavored  by  adding  a teaspoon  mixed 
mustard,  cayenne  or  powdered  mace,  to  each  pound  cheese,  and 
curry  powder  is  often  used. 

Toasted  Cheese. — Rub  the  bottom  of  a heated  frying-pan  with  a 
cut  onion,  then  with  butter.  Put  a half  pound  dry  grated  cheese 
into  it,  stirring  fast  to  prevent  burning.  AVhen  it  is  melted  put  in  a 
tablespoon  each  melted  butter  and  made  mustard,  and  a pinch  cay- 


CHEESE. 


193 


enne  pepper,  and  lastly  a tablespoon  bread-crumbs,  which  have 
been  previously  soaked  in  cream,  then  pressed  almost  dry.  Spread 
smoking  hot  on  rounds  or  slices  of  thin  toast  from  which  the  crust 
has  been  pared,  and  serve  at  once.  F or  Toasted  Cheese  with  Eggs 
take  one-half  pound  good  English  cheese,  three  eggs  beaten  light, 
three  tablespoons  bread-crumbs  soaked  in  cream,  tablespoon  mustard, 
a little  minced  parsley,  three  table- 
spoons  butter,  melted,  but  not  hot. 

Beat  the  soaked  crumbs  into  the 
eggs,  then  the  butter  and  seasoning,  lastly  the  cheese.  Beat  very 
light,  spread  smoothly  on  slices  of  delicate  toast  and  brown  quickly 
upon  the  upper  grating  of  the  oven.  The  cheese  knife  will  be  found 
useful  in  preparing  cheese  for  toasting,  scooping  out  the  inside  of  a 
dry  cheese,  etc. 

Ramakin^. — Four  ounces  grated,  high-flavored  cheese,  half 
Cheshire  and  half  Parmesan  if  obtainable,  or  all  of  one  kind,  two 
ounces  each  butter  and  bread  (without  crust),  a scant  gill  milk,  one- 
tiaird  teaspoon  each  mustard  and  salt,  small  pinch  cayenne  pepper, 
two  or  three  eggs.  Crumb  the  bread  and  boil  it  soft  in  the 
milk  ; add  the  butter,  mustard,  salt,  pepper,  cheese,  and  the 
yolks  of  the  eggs ; beat  thoroughly,  then  stir  in  the  whites  of  the 
eggs  beaten  to  a stiff  froth.  Pour  this  into  patty  pans  or  saucers, 
which  ought  not  to  be  more  than  half  filled ; bake  the  paste  from 
five  to  ten  minutes,  when  it  should  be  puffed  high  above  the  edge  of 
the  pans.  Serve  immediately,  or  they  will  fall.  A good  cheese  course 
for  dinner  and  nice  for  lunch  or  supper.  This  batter  is  equally  nice 
for  macaroni.  Another  excellent  recipe  for  ramakins  is  to  boil  half 
pint  milk  and  half  the  quantity  of  cream ; melt  one  ounce  butter 
and  a little  salt ; mix  in  a spoonful  flour,  and  stir  it  over  the  fire 
five  minutes  ; pour  in  milk  and  cream  by  degrees  and  work  smooth, 
taking  care  that  it  is  thoroughly  cooked,  then  take  off  and  add  half 
a pound  grated  cheese,  some  coarse  ground  pepper  and  an  atom  of 
nutmeg,  with  a very  little  powdered  sugar,  the  yolks  of  eight  eggs 
and  whites  of  two,  well  beaten ; when  perfectly  mixed,  add  the  well- 
frothed  whites  of  six  eggs ; the  batter  should  be  as  thick  as  cream. 
Make  little  paper  trays,  fill  them  half  full,  and  bake  in  a very  slow 
oven  eighteen  minutes.  Or,  bake  in  patty  pans  or  small  cups. 
Serve  hot. 

Pastry  Ramakins. — The  remains  or  odd  pieces  of  paste  left 
from  large  tarts,  etc.,  answer  for  making  these  little  dishes.  Gather 
up  the  pieces  of  paste,  roll  out  evenly,  and 
sprinkle  with  grated  cheese  of  a nice  flavor.  ^ ^ 

Fold  the  paste  in  three,  roll  it  out  again  and  

sprinkle  more  cheese  over ; fold  the  x^aste,  paste  jaggar. 

roll  it  out,  and  with  a paste  jaggar  shape  it  in  any  way  that  may  be 
desired.  Bake  the  ramakins  in  a brisk  ov^en  from  ten  to  fifteen  min- 
utes ; just  before  taking  from  the  oven  brush  with  beaten  egg  and 
13 


194 


CHEESE. 


sift  over  with  powdered  sugar,  let  brown  a moment,  dish  them  on  a 
hot  napkin  and  serve  quickly.  Where  expense  is  not  objected  to,  Par- 
mesan is  the  best  kind  of  cheese  to  use  for  making  this  dish.  The 
recipe  makes  a quantity  sufficient  for  six  or  seven  persons. 

Toast  Rarnakins. — Three  tablespoons  grated  cheese,  two  eggs 
beaten  light,  one  tablespoon  melted  butter,  one  teaspoon  anchovy 
sauce,  one  teaspoon  hour  wet  with  cream,  a pinch  of  cayenne  pepper. 
Beat  the  butter  and  seasoning  in  with  the  eggs,  then  the  cheese,  lastly 
the  hour,  working  until  the  mixture  is  of  creamy  lightness.  Spread 
thickly  upon  slices  of  lightly  toasted  bread  and  brown  quickly  in  the 
oven.  Or,  grate  a half  pound  cheese  and  melt  two  ounces  butter ; 
while  the  latter  is  getting  cool  mix  it  with  the  cheese  and  well-beaten 
whites  of  three  eggs ; lay  buttered  papers  in  a frying  pan,  put  in 
slices  of  bread*  and  lay  the  cheese  mixture  on  top.;  set  it  over  the 
hre  for  about  hve  minutes,  then  take  it  off  and  brown  with  a 
salamander. 

Scotch  Rare-hit. — Cut  nice,  rich,  sound  cheese  into  rather  thiij 
slices,  melt  it  in  a cheese-toaster  on  a hot  plate,  or  over  steam,  and 
when  melted  add  a small  quantity  mixed  mustard  and  a seasoning 
of  x^epper.  Stir  the  cheese  until  it  is  completely  dissolved,  then 
broAvn  it  before  the  fire  or  AA'ith  a hot  salamander.  Serve  with  dry 
or  buttered  toasts,  whichever  may  be  preferred.  If  the  cheese  is  not 
very  rich  a few  pieces  of  butter  may  be  mixed  with  it  to  great  ad- 
vantage. Sometimes  the  melted  cheese  is  spread  on  the  toasts,  and 
then  laid  in  the  cheese-toaster.  Whichever  way  it  is  served  it  is 
highly  necessary  that  the  mixture  be  very  hot  and  very  quickly  sent 
to  table. 

Welsh  Rare-hit. — Cut  bread  into  slices  about  half  an  inch  in 
thickness,  allowing  a slice  for  each  person ; pare  off  the  crust,  toast 
the  bread  slightly  without  hardening  or  burning  it,  and  spread  it 
with  butter.  Cut  some  slices,  not  quite  so  large  as  the  bread,  from 
a good  rich  fat  cheese;  lay  them  on  the  toasted  bread  in  a cheese- 
toaster  ; be  careful  that  the  cheese  does  not  burn,  and  let  it  be  equal- 
ly melted.  Spread  over  the  top  a little  made  mustard  and  a sea- 
soning of  x^epper,  and  serve  very  hot,  with  very  hot  plates.  To  facil- 
itate the  melting  of  the  cheese  it  may  be  cut  into  thin  flakes  or 
toasted  on  one  side  before  it  is  laid  on  the  bread.  As  it  is  so  essen- 
tial to  send  this  dish  hot  to  table  it  is  a good  plan  to  melt  the  cheese 
in  small  round  silver  or  metal  pans,  and  to  send  these  x>ans  to  table, 
alloAving  one  for  each  guest.  Slices  of  dry  or  buttered  toast  should 
always  accompany  them,  with  mustard,  pepx)er  and  salt ; or  stir  to- 
gether in  a saucepan  over  the  fire  until  smoothly  blended,  four 
heaping  tablespoons  grated  cheese,  two  of  butter,  one  oi  milk,  salt- 
spoon  each  salt  and  dry  mustard,  quarter  of  pepper  and  a dust  oi 
cayenne.  The  pan  must  be  hot  and  rubbed  Avell  with  butter  before 
putting  in  the  cheese  ; stir  rapidly  and  when  melted  put  in  butter. 


CHEESE. 


195 


next  mustard  and  pepper.  Some  add  a cup  bread-crumbs  soaked 
in  a little  milk,  which  should  be  pressed  dry  and  put  in  last.  Or 
the  well-beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs  may  be  added  after  the  butter  and 
cheese  are  melted.  Have  ready  some  nicely-toasted  slices  of  bread 
cut  in  square  or  diamond-shaped  pieces  of  any  size  desired,  and 
serve  at  once  on  a hot  platter,  as  it  is  quite  spoiled  if  allowed  to  get 
cold.  The  mustard  may  be  omitted  if  desired,  and  some  think  it 
more  delicate  to  dip  the  toast  quickly,  after  buttering,  into  a shallow 
pan  of  boiling  water ; have  some  cheese  ready  melted  in  a cup,  and 
pour  some  over  each  slice.  The  best  way  to  serve  is  to  have  little 
plates  made  hot,  place  a slice  on  each  plate,  and  serve  one  to  each 
person.  The  Welsh  rare-bit  makes  a decidedly  pretty  course,  served 
in  little  chafing-dishes  in  silver,  or  plated  silver,  about  four  inches 
square,  one  of  which,  standing  in  a plate,  is  to  be  served  to  each 
person  at  table.  The  reservoir  contains  boiling-hot  water ; the  little 
platter  holds  the  slice  of  Welsh  rare-bit,  which  is  thus  kept  hot.  A 
poached  egg  is  sometimes  placed  on  each  slice,  and  it  is  then  served 
under  the  name  of  Golden  Buck.  Poach  the  eggs  in  boiling  water 
seasoned  with  a little  salt,  half  gill  vinegar  and  teaspoon  butter, 
place  a slice  of  fried  or  boiled  bacon  on  top  of  the  poached  eggs 
and  it  is  sent  to  table  as  Yorkshire  Rare-hit. 


To  Toast  Cheese. — Grate  or  slice  the  desired  quantity  of  cheese 
and  put  with  a bit  of  butter  into  the  cheese  toaster, 
which  is  prepared  by  filling  the  bottom  with  hot  |i,p|||pi 
water.  Our  engraving  illustrates  a cheese  toaster 
with  hot  water  reservoir ; the  cheese  is  melted  in  cheese  Toaster, 
an  upper  tin  placed  in  the  reservoir.  If  one  of  these  useful  little 
utensils  cannot  be  had,  melt  the  cheese  in  a pie  tin  on  back  of  stove 
)r  range,  or  over  a kettle  of  hot  water. 

English  Bread  and  Butter. — This  is  to  serve  with  a cheese 
course.  Cut  an  even  slice  off  a large  loaf  of  fresh  home-made  bread, 
butter  the  cut  end  of  the  loaf  thinly, 
then  hold  it  against  the  side  with  the’ 
left  hand  and  arm,  and  wfith  a sharp,  Knife, 

thin  knife,  cut  an  even  slice  not  more  than  an  eighth  of  inch  thick ; 
a little  practice  and  a steady  grasp  of  the  bread  and  knife  will  en- 
able any  one  to  produce  regular  whole  slices  ; fold  each  slice  double 
with  the  butter  inside,  and  serve  them  on  a clean  napkin.  The 
slices  may  be  rolled  like  a napkin,  and  served,  in  this 
ijj  case  bake  the  bread  in  the  following  manner  : When 
risen  in  the  single  loaf  pan,  invert  it  upon  an  ordi- 
“Rteamod- Pan.  nary  dripping-pan,  leaving  the  other  pan  still  over 
the  loaf,  as  illustrated,  and  bake  as  other  bread,  taking  off  upper 
pan  at  end  of  one  hour  to  see  if  it  is  done.  This  bread  is  more 
easily  rolled  than  any  other,  and  is  also  prized  for  eating  as  well  as 
rolling;  slice  and  roll  as  directed  in  Wedding  Rolls. 


CHEESE. 


m 


Fromage. — Beat  two  eggs  very  light,  stir  in  a half  pint  cream 
and  add  a half  pound  grated  cheese  and  a pinch  of  cayenne  pepper ; 
pour  into  buttered  soup  plates,  bake  fifteen  minutes  and  serve. 

. Italian  Balls. — Boil  together  tablespoon  butter  and  eight  of 
water,  add  pinch  each  salt  and  pepper,  ten  tablespoons  flour  and 
three  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese,  stirring  all  the  time,  and  boil  a 
a minute  or  two.  Take  off  and  stir  in  thoroughly  three  well-beaten 
eggs.  Divide  mixture  into  balls  and  poach  them  in  three-quarters 
pint  boiling  milk ; when  done  place  on  sieve  to  drain.  Make  a sauce 
of  tablespoon  butter,  four  of  flour  and  one  and  a half  pints  milk ; 
let  simmer  for  fifteen  minutes  or  till  it  thickens.  Put  a layer  of 
balls  in  a small  baking  dish,  then  a layer  of  grated  cheese,  then  a 
layer  of  the  sauce ; repeat  till  dish  is  full,  strewing  grated  cheese 
over  the  top;  brown  in  oven  and  serve  hot.  Very  delicious. 

Mock-Cral). — Break  up  a half  pound  soft  rich  cheese  with  2 
cheese-knife,  qr  fork,  mix  with  it  a teaspoon  dry  mustard,  a salt 
spoon  salt,  half  a saltspoon  pepper  and  a dessert-spoon  vinegar ; 
serve  it  cold  with  a plate  of  thin  bread  and  butter  or  crisp  crackers. 

RagamuMns. — Take  raised  biscuit  dough,  roll  out  to  inch  thick- 
ness, sprinkle  thickly  with  grated  cheese,  roll  up  like  a jelly  roll, 
cut  in  about  inch  slices  fiom  the  end  and  place  in  pans,  with  cut 
side  down ; let  rise  a little  while  and  bake  quickly.  Baking  powder 
dough  may  be  used,  placing  at  once  in  oven.  Very  nice. 

Spaghetti  Butter. — Spaghetti  is  macaroni  in  another  form,  ,a 
solid  cord  instead  of  a tube.  Take  two  cups  broken  spaghetti,  oiiq 
each  of  minced  cheese  and  milk,  butter  size  of  an  egg,  and  twc^ 
yolks  of  eggs.  Throw  the  spaghetti  into  Avater  that  is  already  boil- 
ing, and  salted.  After  cooking  tAventy  minutes  drain  it  dry,  and 
put  it  into  the  buttered  dish  in  Avhich  it  is  to  be  baked.  Put  the 
cheese  and  butter  and  half  the  milk  into  a saucepan  and  stir  them 
over  the  fire  till  the  cheese  is  nearl}"  melted ; mix  the  yolks  AAuth  the 
rest  of  the  milk,  pour  that  into  the  saucepan,  then  add  the  AAfiiole  to 
the  spaghetti  in  the  pan,  and  bake  it  a yelloAA^  broAAui  in  as  short  a 
time  as  possible.  It  loses  its  richness  if  cooked  too  long,  through 
the  toughening  of  the  cheese.  This  butter  ought  to  be  yelloAA^  as  gold. 

Scallopade. — Soak  one  cup  dry  bread-crumbs  in  ncAv  or  fresh 
milk.  Beat  into  this  three  AA^ell-beaten  eggs.  Add  tablespoon  melted 
butter  and  a half  pound  grated  cheese.  Sprinkle  the  top  AAuth  sifted 
bread-crumbs  and  bake  in  the  oven  a delicate  broAAui.  A delicious 
relish  to  eat  Avith  thin  bread  and  butter. 


DRINKS. 


197 


DR.INKS. 


Beside  the  wines  and  liquors  still  served  at  so  many  tables, 
though  rigorously  and  wisely  excluded  from  many  others,  and  the 
universal  and  well-nigh  indispensable  coffee  and  tea,  there  are  in- 
numerable pleasant,  refreshing  drinks  that  are  easily  concocted  and 
within  the  reach  of  all.  The  basis  of  most  of  these  is  the  juice  of 
fruits,  which,  combined  with  sugar  and  flavoring  in  liked  propor- 
tions, forms  an  infinite  variety  of  healthful  as  well  as  pleasing  bev- 
erages. 

A knowledge  of  the  proper  preparation  of  the  two  every-day 
beverages,  coffee  and  tea,  should  be  among  the  acquirements  of  every 
housekeeper.  To  avoid  adulteration,  buy  coffee  in  the  grain,  either 
raw  or  in  small  quantities  freshly  roasted.  In  selecting  raw  coffee 
choose  that  which  is  dry  and  light ; if  it  feels  dense  and  heavy  it  is 
green  ; buy  that  at  least  eight  or  ten  months  old,  and  the  claim  is 
made  that  the  longer  the  raw  berry  is  kept  the  riper  and  better 
flavored  it  becomes.  The  best  kinds  are  the  Mocha  and  Java,  and 
some  prefer  to  mix  the  two,  having  roasted  them  separately  in  the 
proportion  of  one-third  of  the  former  to  two-thirds  of  the  latter. 
Mocha  alone  is  too  rough  and  acrid,  but  thus  blended  it  is  delicious. 
Pure  Java,  if  of  a high  order,  does  not  need  other  brands  of  coffee 
to  make  it  palatable ; but,  as  a rule,  above  mixing,  or  one-third  each 
of  pure  Mocha,  Java,  and^  Maracaibo,  makes  a rich  cup  of  coffee, 
while  a mixture  of  two-thirds  Mandehling  Java  and  one-third  ‘‘male 
berry”  (so  called)  Java  produces  excellent  results;  or  one  pound 
Java  to  about  four  ounces  Mocha  and  four  ounces  of  one  or  two 


198 


DKINKS. 


other  kinds ; and  it  is  said  that  from  three  parts  Rio,  with  two  parts 
Old  Government  Java,  a coffee  can  be  made  quite  as  good,  if  not 
superior,  to  that  made  of  Java  alone.  West  India  coffee,  though  of 
a different  flavor,  is  often  very  good.  Mexico  coffee  is  quite  accept- 
able, but  the  producers  must  clean  it  properly  if  they  expect  to 
receive  patronage.  Java,  or  East  India  coffee,  may  be  known  by 
its  large  yellow  beans ; Mocha  comes  from  Arabia  and  has  small  gray 
beans  inclining  to  greenish.  The  Rio  berries  are  of  the  same  color 
with  the  greenish  tinge,  hut  are  of  larger  size,  midway  between  Mo- 
cha and  Java.  In  buying  roasted  coffee  ascertain  that  it  has  been  kept 
in  closely  covered  air-tight  tin  box,  as  if  in  pine  it  will  he  flavored  with 
pine,  and  purchase  of  a dealer  who  roasts  frequently,  or  buys  roasted 
coffee  in  small  lots.  Coffee  roasted  by  machinery  is  of  course  more 
evenly  browned,  but  by  roasting  it  at  home  one  is  sure  of  having  it 
perfectly  fresh  and  pure.  When  buying  roasted  coffee  compare  it 
with  the  raw  beans  of  the  kind  desired.  If  pure  and  properly 
roasted  the  coffee  will  be  of  a rich  brown  color  and  have  increased 
fifty  per  cent  in  bulk,  or  each  bean  will  be  a half  size  larger  than 
when  raw.  Coffee  loses  twenty-five  per  cent  its  weight  in  roasting 
a pound  of  raw  coffee  making  only  three-quarters  of  a pound 
roasted. 

Roast  coffee  with  the  greatest  care — for  here  lies  the  secret  of 
success  in  coffee-making — and  in  small  quantities,  for  there  is  a 
peculiar  freshness  of  flavor  when  newly  roasted.  To  make  the  most 
perfect  and  delicious  coffee,  the  desired  quantity  should  he  roasted 
just  before  it  is  made.  But  this  involves  more  time  and  trouble 
than  can  be  given  by  most  housewives  for  every-day  use.  Pick  over 
carefully,  wash  if  berries  are  not  clean,  and  weigh  (the  best  will  not 
iieed  washing),  and  dry  in  a moderate  oven,  increase  the  heat  and 
roast  quickly,  either  in  the  oven  or  on  top  of  the  stove  or  range ; in 
the  latter  case  stir  constantly  and  in  the  oven  stir  often  with  a 
wooden  spoon  or  ladle  kept  for  this  purpose.  The  coffee  must  he 
thoroughly  and  evenly  roasted  to  a dark  rich  brown  (not  black) 
throughout,  and  must  be  free  from  any  burnt  grains,  a few  of  which 
will  ruin  the  flavor  of  a large  quantity.  It  must  be  tender  and  brit- 
tle, to  test  which  take  a grain,  place  it  on  the  table,  press  with  the 
thumb  and  if  it  can  be  crushed,  it  is  done.  Blow  off  any  loose  par- 
ticles separated  by  the  heat  and  stir  in  a lump  of  butter  while  the 
coffee  is  hot,  or  wait  until  about  half  cold  and  then  stir  in  a well- 


DRINKS. 


199 


beaten  egg.  The  latter  plan  is  very  economical,  as  coffee  so  pre-  ^ 
pared  needs  no  further  clarifying.  A French  method  of  roasting 
coffee  is  to  add  to  every  three  pounds  coffee  apiece  of  butter  the  size 
of  a nut  and  a dessert-spoonful  powdered  sugar,  and  then  roast  in 
the  usual  manner.  The  addition  of  the  butter  and  sugar  develops 
the  flavor  and  aroma  of  the  berry,  but  the  butter  must  be  of  the  very 
best.  Another  French  method  is  to  roast,  grind  to  a flour,  moisten 
slightly,  mix  it  with  twice  its  weight  in  sugar  and  then  press  into 
tablets,  using  a tablet  when  needed.  Keep  coffee  in  a closely  cov- 
ered tin  or  earthen  vessel.  Never  attempt  other  work  while  roasting 
coffee  but  give  it  the  entire  attention.  Grind  quantities  as  needed, 
for  the  flavor  is  dissipated  if  it  is  long  unused  after  grinding,  even 
when  under  cover.  The  grinding  is  a very  important  part  of  the 
preparation  of  coffee,  and  the  old  method,  still  very  generally  prac- 
ticed, was  to  grind  into  coarse  particles,  but  it  is  now  claimed  that 
if  ground  too  coarse  much  of  the  strength  and  aroma  of  the  coffee  is 
lost ; by  grinding  as  fine  as  possible  these  qualities  are  much  more 
perfectly  preserved,  and  the  only  objection  urged  is  that  it  is  dif- 
ficult to  make  the  beverage  clear.  This  may  be  obviated  by  filtering, 
or  using  the  sack  described  in  Filtered  Coffee,  as  the  little  wire  cups 
opening  in  center  for  holding  coffee  are  not  fine  enough,  though 
some  inventive  genius  will  doubtless  soon  bring  forward  a strainer 
of  the  requisite  fineness  for  this  purpose.  Many  grind  coffee  mod- 
erately fine  or  to  particles  the  size  of  pin,  heads,  obtaining  there- 
from a satisfactory  beverage,  and  claim  that  this  grinding  frees  the 
oil,  as  it  should  be,  and  any  finer  develops  properties  very  injurious. 
A step  further  is  to  reduce  the  coffee  to  a fine  powder — as  fine  as  flour. 
If  appliances  for  doing  this  are  not  at  hand  then  the  dealer  must  be 
depended  upon,  but  prepare  at  home  if  possible^  and  thus  secure 
perfectly  fresh  and  unadulterated  coffee.  When  necessary  to  pur- 
chase of  a dealer  be  sure  that  the  coffee  is  roasted  and  ground  fre- 
quently, if  not  daily,  and  buy  only  in  small  quantities  sufficient  for 
a week’s  consumption  is  a good  rule,  though  for  large  families  it  has 
been  bought  in  five-pound  cans,  and  by  keeping  closely  covered  was 
thought  to  have  lost  but  little  of  its  strength  and  flavor.  In  any 
case,  keep  in  air-tight  can. 

MAKING  COFFEE. 

To  make  coffee  from  the  powder  it  will  be  necessary  to  use  a 
patent  pot  or  put  the  powder  in  the  sack  described  below.  The  pow- 


DRINKS. 


<Ier  is  claimed  to  be  much  more  economical  than  the  ordinary  ground 
coffee,  requiring  only  about  one-third  as  much,  or  one  teaspoon  to 
>each  person  (with  half  pint  water),  and  is  also  much  more  quickly 
made,  the  boiling  water  filtering  through  and  the  coffee  being  ready 
to  serve  within  a minute  or  two  after  it  is  put  in  the  sack.  The  old- 
fashioned  way  of  making  coffee  by  boiling  is  still  practiced  by  prob- 
ably a majority  of  housekeepers.  ^‘One  for  the  pot”  and  a heaping 
tablespoon  ordinary  ground  coffee  for  each  person,  is  the  usual  al- 
lowance. Mix  well,  either  with  a part  or  the  whole  of  an  egg  when 
only  a part  is  used  putting  in  the  shell  also,  and  when  eggs  are 
scarce  some  are  careful  to  wash  shells  before  breaking,  and  keep  for 
this  purpose,  crushing  three  or  four  into  the  pot  instead  of  the  egg ; 
or  codfish  skin  washed,  dried,  and  cut  in  inch  pieces,  may  be  used 
and  enough  cold  water  to  thoroughly  moisten  it,  place  in  a heated, 
well-scalded  coffee-boiler,  pour  in  half  the  quantity  of  boiling  water 
needed,  allowing  one  pint  less  of  water  than  there  are  tablespoons  of 
coffee.  Roll  a canton  flannel  cloth  tightly — one  must  be  kept  for 
this  purpose  and  washed  and  dried  after  using — and  stop  up  the 
nose  or  spout,  thus  keeping  in  all  the  coffee  flavor.  Boil  rather  fast 
five  minutes,  stirring  down  from  the  top  and  sides  as  it  boils  up, 
and  place  on  back  part  of  stove  or  range  where  it  will  only  simmer 
for  ten  or  fifteen  minutes  longer.  When  ready  to  serve  add  the  re- 
mainder of  the  boiling  water  Some  think  the  flavor  is  better  pre- 
served to  put  a small  quantity  of  cold  water  with  the  coffee,  bring  it 
to  boiling  point  and  add  sufficient  boiling  water.  Or,  another  method 
of  making  coffee  without  clearing  is  to  stir  the  coffee  directly  into 
the  boiling  water,  boil  and  simmer  as  above,  then  pour  out  a large 
cupful,  and,  holding  it  high  over  the  pot,  pour  it  in  again ; repeat 
this,  and  set  it  on  stove  where  it  will  keep  hot,  without  simmering. 
The  coffee  will  be  clear  if  instructions  are  carefully  followed. 
Another  method  is  to  pour  boiling  water  over  the  coffee,  cover  close- 
ly, boil  one  minute,  remove  to  the  side  of  the  stove  a few  minutes  to 
settle,  and  serve.  Allow  two  heaping  tablespoons  coffee  to  a pint 
water.  The  less  time  the  coffee  is  cooked  the  more  coffee  of  ordi- 
nary grinding  is  required,  but  the  finer  the  flavor.  The  late  Profes- 
sor Blot  protested  against  boiling  the  coffee  at  all,  as  in  his  opinion 
the  aroma  was  evaporated,  and  only  the  bitter  flavor  left.  The  ad- 
vantages of  boiled  coffee  are  that  when  the  egg  is  used  the  yolk 
gives  a very  rich  flavor,  and  when  the  milk  or  cream  is  added  the 


DRINKS. 


201 


coffee  has  a rich,  yellow  look,  which  is  pleasing.  It  has  also  a pe- 
culiar flavor,  which  many  people  prefer  to  the  flavor  gained  by  any 
other  process.  The  disadvantages  are  that  the  egg  coats  the  dry 
coffee,  and  when  the  hot  water  is  added  the  coating  becomes  hard, 
and  a great  deal  of  the  best  of  the  coffee  remains  in  the  grounds 
after  boiling,  compelling  one  to  use  nearly  double  the  amount  of 
coffee.  Also,  in  boiling,  much  of  the  fine  flavor  is  lost  in  the  steam 
that  escapes  from  the  pot,  and  the  tannic  acid  of  the  coffee  is  ex- 
tracted, which  in  combination  with  the  milk  or  cream  taken  with  it 
hardens  the  albumen  they  contain  into  an  indigestible  compound 
that  is  excessively  irritating  to  the  delicate  internal  membranes. 

For  these  reasons  the  practice  of  making  coffee  without  boiling 
is  gradually  becoming  more  general.  And  for  this  a fair  proportion 
for  good  coffee  is  three  tablespoons  of  the  pure  ground  berry  to  each 
quart  water,  which  makes  sufficient  for  three  persons.  The  water 
must  be  boiling  when  poured  on  the  coffee  but  must  not  boil  aften 
ward.  The  vessel  in  which  it  is  made  must  stand  near  enough  the 
fire  to  be  kept  as  hot  as  possible  without  boiling  for  five  or  ten  min- 
utes before  using.  If  made  in  a pot  containing  a strainer  the  coffee 
will  be  clear,  and  if  made  in  an  ordinary  pot  or  pitcher  it  should  be 
stirred  for  three  minutes  after  pouring  boiling  water  over  it,  to  thor- 
oughly saturate  the  grounds  and  so  cause  them  to  sink  to  the  bottom 
of  the  pot.  If  coffee  is  allowed  to  stand  for  about  ten  minutes  to 
settle,  and  is  poured  off  carefully,  it  will  be  perfectly  clear.  The 
water  used  in  making  coffee  should  be  fresh  and  have  boiled  two  or 
three  minutes  before  pouring  over  the  coffee ; never  take  that  which 
has  stood  long  in  the  tea-kettle.  Always  have  the  coffee-pot  hot 
before  putting  in  the  coffee.  Many  think  that  heating  the  dry  coffee 
just  before  making  improves  its  flavor.  When  serving  coffee  have 
the  cups  hot.  They  are  very  easily  heated  when  coffee  is  poured  at 
table  by  filling  first  with  hot  water  from  the  water-pot,  that  should 
always  be  provided,  and  turning  it  into  the  slop-bowl.  If  served  from 
butler’s  pantry,  set  cups  over  the  heater,  or  fill  first  with  hot  water, 
as  at  table.  Serve  both  coffee  and  tea  with  the  richest  cream,  but 
where  this  cannot  be  had,  a substitute  is  prepared  as  follows  : Take 
fresh,  new  milk,  set  in  a pan  or  pail  in  boiling  water  where  it  will 
slowly  simmer,  but  not  boil  or  reach  the  boiling  point,  stir  frequently 
to  keep  the  cream  from  separating  and  rising  to  the  top,  and  allow 
to  simmer  until  it  is  rich,  thick  and  creamy.  In  absence  of  both 


202 


DRINKS. 


cream  and  milk  the  whites  of  fresh  eggs  beaten  to  a froth,  with  a 
small  bit  of  butter  well  mixed  in,  may  be  used,  taking  one  egg  for 
every  two  cups,  and  placing  the  froth  in  the  cup  first ; in  pouring 
the  coffee  or  tea  it  must  be  turned  on  gradually  and  constantly  stirred 
so  as  not  to  curdle  the  egg ; or  omit  the  butter  and  use  the  whole  egg  y 
or  for  a richer  dressing  with  cream,  beat  the  white  of  an  egg  to  a 
stiff  froth,  mix  with  an  equal  quantity  of  whipped  cream,  put  in 
plain  cream  first,  then  coffee  and  lastly  this  mixture.  Physicians 
say  that  coffee  without  cream  is  more  wholesome,  particularly  for 
persons  of  weak  digestiono  There  seems  to  be  some  element  in  the 
coffee  which,  combining  with  the  milk,  forms  a leathery  coating  on 
the  stomach  and  impairs  digestion.  The  convenient  cofiee  or  tea 
strainer,  of  which  an  illustration  is  given,  is  applied  or  detached  in  a 
moment,  being  held  in  place  by  a spring,  as 
shown  in  cut,  inserted  in  the  spout.  The 
strainer  separates  the  dregs  from  the  tea  or 
coffee  as  it  is  poured.  It  is  made  to  fit  any 
coffee  or  tea-pot.  The  solid  rim  is  of  pure 
britannia  and  is  easily  kept  clean  and 
bright.  A similar  strainer  is  made  to  attach 
to  the  faucets  of  urns.  In  serving  from  the 
butler’s  pantry  the  liquid  may  be  poured  into  cups  through  a small 
handled  strainer  answering  the  same  purpose.  To  keep  the  coffee- 
pot or  tea-pot  thoroughly  pure,  boil  a little  borax  or  soda  in  them, 
in  water  enough  to  touch  the  whole  inside  surface,  once  or  twice  a 
week,  for  about  fifteen  minutes.  No  dish-water  should  ever  touch 
the  inside  of  either.  It  is  sufficient  to  rinse  them  in  two  or  three 
waters ; this  should  be  done  as  soon  after  they  are  used  as  possible. 
Drain  dry,  and  when  ready  to  use,  scald  out  in  two  waters.  These 
precautions  will  aid  in  preserving  the  flavor  of  the  tea  and  coffee. 

FILTERED  COFFEE. 

The  French  coffee  biggin  furnishes  the  easiest  means  for  filter- 
ing coffee.  It  consists  of  two  cylindrical  tin  vessels,  one  fitting  into 
the  other ; the  bottom  of  the  upper  one  is  a fine  strainer,  another 
coarser  strainer  is  placed  on  this  with  a rod  running  upwards  from 
its  center;  the  finely  ground  coffee  is  put  in,  and  then  another 
strainer  is  slipped  on  the  rod,  over  the  coffee,  the  boiling  water  is 
poured  on  the  upper  sieve  and  falls  ii?  a shower  upon  the  coffeq 


DRINKS. 


203 


filtering  through  it  to  the  coarse  strainer  at  the  bottom,  which  pre- 
vents the  coffee  from  filling  up  the  holes  of  the  finer  strainer  below 
it.  The  coffee  thus  made  is  clear  and  pure ; the  pot  must  stand 
where  it  will  keep  hot  until  the  water  has  entirely  filtered  through. 
When  wanted  extra  nice  the  coffee  is  turned  out  into  a hot  measure 
and  poured  through  the  filter  again.  Let  stand  a moment  on  the 
range  and  it  will  be  as  clear  as  wine.  But  unless  the  pot,  measure 
and  water  are  very  hot,  the  coffee  will  taste  as  though  it  had  become 
cold  and  then  been  ‘‘warmed  over.”  No  eggs  or  other  foreign  sub- 
stances are  used  to  clear  or  settle  the  coffee. 

The  National,  Minute  and  other  patent  coffee-pots  are  too  widely 
known  to  need  description  here,  but  the  “ gude  wife can  improvise 
one  equally  as  desirable  and  much  simpler.  Make  a sack  of  fine 
flannel,  or  unbleached  muslin,  half  so  long  as  the  coffee-pot  is  deep,  or 
shorter  will  do,  and  a little  larger  than  the  top ; stitch  up  the  side 
seam  to  within  an  inch  and  a half  of  the  top,  bend  a piece  of  small 
but  rather  stiff  wire  in  a circle  and  slip  it  through  a hem  made 
around  the  top  of  the  sack,  bringing  the  ends  together  at  the  open- 
ing left  at  the  top  of  the  side  seam.  Having  put  the  coffee  in  the 
sack,  lower  it  into  the  coffee-pot  with  the  ends  of  the  wire  next  the 
handle,  spread  the  ends  of  the  wire  apart  slightly,  and  push  it  down 
over  the  top  of  the  pot.  The  top  of  the  sack  will  then  be  turned 
down  a little  over  the  outside  of  the  pot,  a part  of  it  covering  the 
“ nose,”  and  keeping  in  all  the  aroma,  the  elasticity  of  the  wire  caus- 
ing it  to  close  tight  around  the  pot,  holding  the  sack  close  to  its 
sides.  Instead  of  a wire  (which  must  be  removed  to  wash  the  sack 
after  using),  a tape  may  be  used  by  tying  the  ends  after  turning  the 
top  of  sack  down.  When  the  sack,  with  the  coffee  in  it,  is  in  its 
place,  pour  the  boiling  water  slowly  over  the  coffee,  that  the  infusion 
may  be  stronger,  close  the  lid  tightly,  and  let  simmer  (not  boil)  fif- 
teen minutes  to  half  an  hour.  In  pouring  for  the  table  raise  the 
sack  off  the  nose,  letting  it  remain  in  the  pot  or  not.  This  makes 
good  coffee  without  eggs  or  anything  else  to  settle  it.  Good  clear 
coffee  is  made  without  the  filter,  but  on  the  same  principle,  by  putting 
the  coffee  in  a well-made  and  closely  tied  muslin  bag,  so  that  none 
of  the  grounds  may  escape  and  muddy  the  coffee,  which  is  placed 
in  any  clean  pot  and  boiling  water  poured  over.  Let  it  come  to  the 
boiling  point,  and  stand  a few  moments  to  settle.  Should  it  not  do 
so  rapidly  enough,  pour  a few  tablespoons  cold  water  round  the  in- 


204 


DRINKS. 


side  edge  of  the  coffee-pot.  It  is  advisable  to  tie  a thread  to  the  bag 
with  which  to  remove  it  from  the  pot. 

MAKING  TEA. 

“Polly  put  the  kettle  on,  and  weTl  all  take  tea.” 

Of  all  ‘^cups  that  cheer/’  there  is  nothing  like  the  smoking-hot 
cup  of  tea,  made  with  boiling  water,  in  a thoroughly  scalded  tea-pot, 
which  is  thus  both  cleansed  and  heated.  Put  into  the  pot  the  re- 
quired amount  of  tea,  allowing  one  teaspoon  tea  and  one  tea-cup 
water  for  each  person,  or  one  gill  tea  for  five  persons,  though  some 
who  like  it  very  strong  add  ^‘one  for  the  pot,”  while  the  rule  of  oth- 
ers is  one  teaspoon  tea  to  two  cups  water,  pour  over  it  boiling  water, 
cover  the  tea-pot  so  that  no  steam  may  escape,  and  allow  the  tea  to 
stand  in  a hot  place  and  infuse,  not  boil,  for  seven  minutes,  when  it 
should  be  poured  at  once  into  the  cups,  or  instead  of  pouring  over 
the  tea  all  the  water  needed  at  first,  only  pour  from  a half  to  three- 
fourths  pint,  or  simply  cover  the  tea  and  let  it  stand  to  infuse  in 
same  manner,  then  add  remainder  of  boiling  water  and  serve.  If 
allowed  to  infuse  longer  than  this  time,  which  is  sufficient  to  draw, 
out  the  strength  of  the  leaf,  the  tannin  is  developed,  which  gives  an 
acrid,  bitter  taste,  and,  being  a powerful  astringent,  is  destructive  to 
the  coating  of  the  stomach.  The  tea  will  be  quite  spoiled  unless 
made  with  water  that  is  actually  boiling^  as  the  leaves  will  not  open, 
and  the  flavor  not  be  extract(^d  from  them ; the  beverage  will  conse- 
quently be  colorless  and  tasteless, — in  fact,  nothing  but  tepid  water. 
Where  there  is  a large  company,  it  is  a good  plan  to  have  two  tea- 
pots instead  of  putting  a large  quantity  of  tea  into  one  pot ; the  tea, 
besides,  will  go  further.  When  the  infusion  has  been  once  completed, 
the  addition  of  fresh  tea  adds  very  little  to  the  strength ; so,  when 
more  is  required,  have  the  pot  emptied  of  the  old  leaves,  scalded, 
and  fresh  tea  made  in  the  usual  manner. 

Tea  is  one  of  those  luxuries  which  custom  clothes  in  the  gar- 
ments of  necessity.  There  is,  however,  in  connection  with  tea  one 
point  which  should  not  be  forgotten.  To  maintain  ordinary  health 
the  body  requires  immediate  nourishment  early  in  the  morning,  and 
for  that  reason  tea,  which  retards  the  action  of  the  natural  functions, 
should  be  banished  from  the  breakfast  table,  and  should  appear  at 
lunch  and  after  dinner.  Certain  rules  should  be  followed  by  habit- 
■ftal  tea-drinkers,  if  they  wish  to  use  their  favorite  beverage  without 


DRINKS. 


205 


iijiirious  effects  : After  a full  meal,  when  the  system  is  oppressed; 
for  the  corpulent  and  the  old ; for  hot  climates,  and  especially  for 
those  who,  living  there,  eat  freely,  or  drink  milk  or  alcohol ; in  cases 
of  suspended  animation ; for  soldiers  and  others  marching  in  hot 
climates ; for  then,  by  promoting  evaporation  and  cooling  the  body, 
it  prevents  in  a degree  the  effects  of  too  much  food,  as  of  too  great 
heat.  It  is  a mistake  to  make  tea  strong,  if  the  full  flavor  is  desired. 
Professional  tea-tasters  use  but  a single  pinch  to  a cup  of  boiling 
water’  In  China  and  Russia,  where  tea  is  made  to  perfection,  it  is 
very  weak,  boiling  water  being  poured  on  a few  leaves,  the  decoction 
covered  for  a few  minutes,  and  then  drank  hot  and  clear.  Two 
minutes  is  long  enough  for  tea  to  stand,  and  it  should  never  be 
boiled,  or  the  fine  aroma  which  exists  in  the  volatile  oil  will 
be  thrown  off  by  evaporation,  leaving  as  flavoring  only  the 
principle  of  the  tannic  acid  extracted  by  boiling.  If  tea 
be  ground  like  coffee,  or  crushed  immediately  before  hot  water 
is  poured  upon  it,  it  will  yield  nearly  double  the  amount  of  its  exhil- 
arating qualities.  Freshly  boiled  soft  water  is  the  best  for  either  tea  or 
coffee,  and  the  tea  should  be  added  as  soon  as  it  boils,  as  boiling 
expels  all  the  gases  from  the  water ; but  if  soft  water  can  not  be 
had,  boil  hard  ivater  from  twenty  to  thirty  minutes  before  using ; the 
boiling  drives  off  the  gases  in  this  case,  but  it  also  causes  the  lime 
and  mineral  matters,  which  render  the  water  hard,  to  settle,  thus 
softening  it ; and  to  avoid  the  limy  taste  often  in  water  boiled  in  a 
tea-kettle,  put  a clean  oyster  shell  in  the  kettle,  which  will  always 
keep  it  in  good  order  by  attracting  all  particles  that  may  be  impreg- 
nated in  the  water.  If  hard  water  must  be  used  in  making  tea,  a 
little  carbonate  of  soda  put  into  the  tea-pot  will  both  increase  the 
strength  of  the  tea  and  make  it  more  nutritious,  the  alkali  dissolving 
the  gluten  to  some  extent.  The  best  tea-pot  is  that  which  retains 
heat  longest,  and  this  is  a hright  metal  one,  as  it  radiates  the  least 
heat,  but  the  metal  must  be  kept  bright  and  polished;  some  still  pre- 
fer the  old-fashioned  earthen  pot..  The  most  elegant  mode  of  serving 
tea  is  from  the  tea-urn,  various  forms  and  designs  of  which  are  made 
in  silver  and  plated  ware.  Always  have  a water-pot  of  hot  water  on 
the  waiter  with  which  to  weaken  each  cup  when  desired.  To  insure 
''‘keeping  hot  ” while  serving  in  a different  tea-pot  from  that  in 
which  the  tea  is  made,  the  simple  contrivance  known  as  the 
bonnet/’  or  “ cozy,”  is  warranted  a sure  preventive  against  that 


206 


DRINKS. 


most  insipid  of  all  drinks — a warmish  cup  of  tea.  It  is  merely  a 
sack,  with  a loose  gathering-tape  in  the  bottom,  large  enough  to 
cover  and  encircle  the  tea-pot,  with  a small  opening  to  fit  the  spout, 
and  a slit  though  which  the  handle 
will  he  exposed.  Make  it  with  odd 
pieces  of  silk,  satin  or  cashmere, 
lined,  quilted  or  embroidered ; draw 
this  over  the  tea-pot  as  soon  as  the 
tea  is  poured  into  it ; draw  up  the 
gathering,  string  tightly  at  the  hot-  Tea  or  coifee  stand, 

tom,  and  the  tea  will  remain  piping  hot  for  half  an  hour.  Some 
make  a simple,  quilted,  oval  case  entirely  covering  the  pot  and  reach- 
ing quite  to  the  teapot  stand,  lifting  it  off  each  time  the  tea  is  poured. 

The  tea-float  is  a very  useful  addition  to  the  tea-pot.  The  tea  is 
placed  in  the  float,  and  the  float  in  the  tea-pot.  Boiling  water  is 
added  as  in  ordinary  tea-making.  The  float  rises  to  the  surface  and 
thus  retains  the  tea  at  the  hottest  part  of  the  water,  instead  of  its 
sinking  to  the  bottom,  which  is  the  coldest  part.  By  this  applica- 
tion of  natural  laws  and  the  chemistry  of  tea-making  all  the  strength 
of  the  tea  is  withdrawn,  and  the  infusion  is  far  stronger  than  when 
prepared  in  the  usual  way.  A smaller  quantity  of  tea  is  therefore 
required  when  the  tea-float  is  used.  The  float  can  he  procured  of 
any  grocer  or  tea  dealer.  Some  consider  high  priced  teas  less  desir- 
able for  general  use  than  the  medium  qualities,  both  on  account  of 
their  prices,  and  because,  owing  to  their  purity  and  strength,  they 
abound  in  deleterious  properties. 

The  tea-pot  should  not  only  be  emptied  after  being  used,  but 
made  perfectly  clean  inside  as  well  as  outside.  After  a thorough 
wiping  turn  it  upside  down,  that  the  drops  may  run  from  the  spout, 
and  when  ready  to  be  put  away  twist  the  corner  of  the  towel  and 
wipe  the  inside  of  the  spout,  and  put  the  tea-pot  in  its  place  with 
the  cover  raised ; when  it  is  again  required  pour  in  boiling  water  to 
heat  it  thoroughly.  It  is  well  to  keep  a small  tea-kettle  for  the 
express  purpose  of  boiling  water  for  tea,  thus  surely  avoiding  for 
this  delicate  drink  the  water  which  has  boiled  and  re-boiled  repeat- 
edly during  the  day  for  filling  up  the  various  kettles. 

The  green  teas  are  the  Gunpowder,  considered  the  best,  and 
Hyson  sorts,  with  their  different  varieties,  both  of  which  are  manu- 
factured in  China  and  Japan,  while  only  the  former  is  obtained  from 


DRINKS. 


207 


Java.  The  black  teas  are  manufactured  ir  China,  Assam  and  Java, 
and  from  the  two  former  countries  come  the  Congo  and  Pekoe  sorts 
under  the  latter  of  which  the  Oolong,  a general  favorite,  and 
Souchong  varieties  are  classed.  Java  exports  the  Congo,  and  also  a 
black  tea  made  up  into  little  balls  the  size  of  a pea,  known  as  the 
Imperial.  India  gives  the  English  Breakfast  and  Caper  varieties. 
As  is  now  well  known  the  difference  between  green  tea  and  black 
lies  in  the  fact  that  in  the  former  fermentation  has  been  arrested  by 
“ firing,  ” the  color  of  the  leaf  being  in  this  way  partially  preserved 
and  fixed,  while  with  the  latter,  by  a much  longer  process,  fermen- 
tation up  to  a certain  point  is  permitted,  and  the  leaves  are  not  “fired’^ 
until  they  have  become  oxidized  by  exposure  to  the  air.  Only  green 
lea  is  manufactured  in  Japan,  and  is  considered  superior  to  that  of 
(vhina  and  Java,  where  the  black  teas  are  principally  produced.  The 
Chinese  give  an  artificial  coloring  to  the  green  teas  exported,  em- 
p loying  for  this  purpose  native  indigo  and  gypsum.  In  J apan,  tea  is  no^ 
grown  for  export  only,  but  isthechie-  article  of  home  consumption ; 
ind  the  domestic  teas  as  procured  in  that  country  are  probably  the 
only  samples  of  unadulterated  green  tea  to  be  had,  and  are  known 
SIS  the  green  Japan  and  uncolored  Japan.  In  common  usage  Japan 
tea  means  the  green  variety,  which  is  used  largely  in  tea  mixtures, 
while  the  uncolored  is  used  more  often  by  itself  as  is  also  the  Gum 
powder  and  Hyson.  The  first  pi  kings  of  teas  are  considered  choic- 
est, containing  more  of  the  oil,  and  prices  are  established  in  that 
way,  consequently  each  variety  will  have  a first,  second  and  third 
>5rade.  A cup  of  the  finest  tea  will  show  particles  of  the  oil  upon 
cs  su  ace. 

The  Chinese  employ  numerous  odoriferous  plants  for  the  pur- 
pose of  giving  special  scents  to  different  varieties  of  tea.  Some 
mixtures  we  xiked  are  as  follows,  and  it  is  most  generally  conceded 
that  mixed  tea  is  preferable  : An  excellent  English  mixture  of  black 
teas  combines  cheapness  with  fineness  of  flavor,  and  is  composed  of 
one  pound  of  Congo  tea  with  a quarter  pound  each  of  Assam  and 
Orange  Pekoe ; a mixture  of  black  and  green  teas  is  four  parts  of 
black  to  one  of  green,  but  a very  fine  mixture  in  point  of  flavor  is 
one-half  Oolong  (black),  one  quarter  each  Gunpowder  and  greeii 
Japan,  or  three-fourths  green  Japan  and  one-fourth  Oolong,  or  three- 
fourths  English  Breakfast  and  one-eighth  each  Gunpowder  and  green 
Japan  j or  half  each  English  Breakfast  and  any  green  tea.  Wher« 


208 


DRINKS. 


a mixture  of  uncolored  Japan  is  used  it  is  with  an  equal  part  of 
Oolong.  Where  health  is  taken  into  consideration  the  mixture  using 
less  of  the  green  should  be  -preferred,  as  owing  to  the 
different  process  of  drying  the  green  contains  more 
of  the  injurious  tannin. 

To  preserve  the  strength  of  tea  or  coffee  requires 
a close  receptacle.  Nothing  is  better  than  the  tin 
cans  Avith  close  covers,  japanned  on  the  outside  sur- 
face, kept  for  sale  for  this  purpose.  They  are  made 
neatly  labeled  on  the  side  for  “tea”  or  “coffee,”  sa 
that  there  is  no  mistaking  the  one  for  the  other,  and  no  loss  of  time 
in  getting  what  is  wanted. 

CACAO  AND  CHOCOLATE. 

Cacao  (improperly  called  cocoa)  and  Chocolate,  are  obtained 
from  the  seeds  of  Theobroma  cacao^  a small  tree  that  groAvs  in  Mex- 
ico, Central  America,  the  West  Indies  and  other  islands.  The  seed 
receptacle  resembles  a large  black  cucumber,  containing  from  ten  to 
thirty  beans,  Avhich  are  roasted  like  coffee.  The  husks  are  then 
taken  off,  and  are  called  cacao  shells.  The  best  cacao  is  made  from 
the  bean  after  the  husks  are  removed. 

Cacao  is  rich  in  nutritiA^e  elements.  Like  miik,  it  has  all  the 
substances  necessary  for  the  groAvth  and  sustenance  of  the  body. 
The  active  principle  is  theobromine,  a substance  Avhich  resembles 
the  alkaloids  of  coffee  and  tea,  except  that  it  contai*-s  more  nitrogen 
than  theine  and  caffeine.  Another  important  differ^  e betAAxen 
cacao  and  coffee  or  tea  is  the  large  amount  of  fat  or  cacao-buttei 
contained  in  the  kernel.  These  kernels  consist  of  gum,  starch  and 
vegetable  oil,  and  are  marketed  in  four  different  forms  : cacao  shells, 
which  are  the  husks  of  the  kernel ; cacao  nibs,  the  crushed  kernel ; 
ground  cacao,  the  kernels  ground  fine,  and  chocolate,  the  kernels 
ground  to  a fine  powder  and  mixed  to  a stiff  paste  Avith  or  without 
sugar,  and  sometimes  a little  starch.  It  is  very  nutritious,  but  be- 
ing rich  in  fatty  matters  is  difficult  to  digest.  For  tliis  reason  many 
skim  off  the  oil  that  rises  to  the  surface  as  the  beAwage*  cools  after 
boiling,  and  some  manufacturers  noAV  remoA^e  the  fats.  A small  cake 
weighing  about  tAvo  ounces  aa’III  satisfy  hunger,  and  is  a good  lunch 
for  travelers,  especially  if  eaten  AAuth  fruit.  Cacao  and  chocolate- 
while  very  nutritious,  are  perfectly  free  from  the  possible  injurious 


DRINKS. 


influences  of  tea  and  coflee ; and  the  more  finely  powdered  they  aie 
the  more  palatable  and  nutritious  are  the  beverages  made  from  them. 
Actual  boiling  is  advantageous  in  the  preparation  of  either,  as  it 
thoroughly  incorporates  them  with  the  liquid  used.  Nearly  a^l 
brands  of  cacao  and  chocolate  are  recommended  to  be  prepared  at 
table ; but  it  is  much  better  to  prepare  them  before  the  meal,  and 
allow  to  boil  a minute  or  two  before  serving.  But  too  long  boiling 
spoils  the  flavor.  The  custard  kettle  should  be  used  in  making 
cacao  or  chocolate,  especially  when  milk  is  used,  thus  preventing 
the  possibility  of  burning.  A good  proportion  is  one  tablespoon  of 
either  cacao  or  grated  chocolate  to  each  person,  with  one-half  pint 
milk,  cream  and  milk,  or  milk  and  water,  as  used.  If  sweetened  be^ 
fore  sending  to  table,  the  sugar  must  be  stirred  in  after  it  has  boiled 
and  a grain  of  salt  is  added  by  some  after  taking  from  the  fire  to 
remove  the  flat  taste  noticed.  Excellent  brands  of  chocolate  are 
Baker’s,  Runkle’s  and  Blooker’s ; the  two  former  come  in  cakes,  both 
sweetened  and  unsweetened,  and  the  latter  in  a fine  dry  powder^ 
ready  for  use,  which  saves  the  trouble  of  grating  and  is  preferred  by 
many.  Allow  a large  teaspoon  of  the  powder  to  each  cup  milk,  and 
mix  to  a paste  with  a little  cold  milk,  then  add  boiling  milk. 

In  the  preparation  of  the  above,  and  all  beverages  and  foods,  be 
sure  that  the  water  used  is  pure  and  fresh.  If  there  is  any  reason  to 
suspect  that  it  is  not,  have  it  hailed  before  using.  As  several  pimts 
of  water  are  daily  taken  into  the  body,  this  is  one  of  the  most  impo  r- 
tant foods  we  have,  and  good  water  should  be  one  of  the  indispeii- 
sables  in  every  household.  Distilled  water  is  the  nearest  ally  to  abg(;- 
lutely  pure  water,  but  can  not  be  prepared  by  any  easy  process  at 
home  and  is  made  chiefly  by  chemists  and  druggists  in  their  trade. 
It  is  sometimes  very  essential  in  illness.  The  purest  waters  we  get  in  a 
natural  state  are,  it  is  said,  melted  ice  and  snow.  Rain  water  con- 
tains gases  it  absorbs  in  passing  through  the  air,  but  is  the  best  and 
purest  water  to  use  whan  filtered;  spring  or  well  water,  though 
usually  looking  transparent  enough  and  tasting  well,  is  impregnated 
with  saline  matter ; river  water  has  a smaller  quantity  of  saline  mat- 
ter than  spring  water,  but  its  organic  impurities  are  in  all  likelihood 
far  greater,  and  before  it  can  be  utilized  for  drinking  it  must  have  its 
impurities  removed  by  filtering.  Filters  are  now  comparatively  inex- 
pensive, and  every  family  valuing  health  should  possess  one.  There 
are  many  good  ones,  the  new  upward  filter  possessing  some  ad  van- 
14 


210 


DRINKS. 


tages  over  other  kinds.  To  cool  water  without  ice,  put  it  into  an 
earthen  jug  with  a wet  cloth  wrapped  about  it,  and  hang  in  an  open 
window  where  a breeze  is  blowing  through ; the  evaporation  from  the 
surface  of  the  jug  alistracts  the  heat  from  the  water  within. 


Broma. — Have  three  pints  milk,  or  half  milk  and  water,  scald- 
ing over  boiling  water; mix  two  or  three  tablespoons  broma  smooth 
with  a few  spoonfuls  boiling  water,  and  when  the  milk  is  hot  stir  it 
in,  having  first  mixed  half  a gill  or  more  of  milk  with  the  broma ; leave 
it  ten  minutes,  or  until  slightly  thickened,  then  serve. 

Cacao  Nibs. — Put  a gill  of  the  cacao  nibs  in  a pot  with  two 
quarts  water,  and  boil  gently  one  and  a half  to  two  hours.  There 
should  be  a quart  of  liquid  in  the  pot  when  done.  If  the  boiling 
]ias  been  so  rapid  that  there  is  not  this  quantity,  add  more  water, 
and  let  it  boil  once  again.  Many  people  prefer  half  broken  cacao 
nibs  and  half  shell.  If  the  stomach  is  delicate,  this  is  better  than 
ad  nibs.  Sugar  and  cream  are  used,  as  with  coffee.  When  making 
Cacao  Shells  use  twice  the  quantity  of  shells,  or  less  may  be  used 
'^ith  same  amount  water,  and  boil  as  above ; or,  if  milk  is  liked,  put 
over  the  fire  with  one  quart  water,  and  when  nearly  done  add  a quart 
railk. 

Chocolate. — Take  six  tablespoons  scraped  chocolate,  or  three  of 
Cihocolate  and  three  of  cacao,  dissolved  in  a quart  boiling  water,  boil 
hard  fifteen  minutes,  add  one  quart  rich  milk,  let  scald  and  serve 
hot ; this  is  enough  for  six  persons.  Cacao  can  also  be  made  after 
this  recipe.  Some  boil  either  cacao  or  chocolate  only  one  minute 
and  then  serve,  while  others  make  it  the  day  before  using,  boiling  it 
for  one  hour,  and  when  cool  skimming  off  the  oil  ; when  wanted 
for  use,  heat  it  to  the  boiling  point  and  add  the  milk.  In  this  way 
it  is  equally  good  and  much  more  wholesome. 

Chocolate. — For  twelve  people  take  six  ounces  chocolate,  pour 
over  it  one  pint  boiling  water,  add  eight  ounces  sugar  and  cook  until 
it  becomes  a smooth  paste.  Then  add  enough  sweet  cream  for  the 
number  of  cups.  Heat  the  whole  in  a custard  kettle  and  it  is  ready 
for  use.  This  will  of  course  be  very  rich. 

Meringued  Chocolate. — Three  pints  fresh  milk,  three  table- 
spoons Baker’s  chocolate,  grated,  two  tablespoons  sugar,  powdered 
for  froth.  Heat  milk  to  scalding.  Wet  up  chocolate  with  one  cup 
boiling  water  and  when  the  milk  is  hot  stir  this  into  it.  Simmer 
gently  ten  minutes,  stirring  frequently.  Boil  up  briskly  once,  take 
from  the  fire,  sweeten  to  taste,  taking  care  not  to  make  it  too  sweet, 
and  stir  in  the  whites  of  two  eggs  whipped  stiff,  without  sugar.  Pour 
into  the  chocolate  pot  or  pitcher,  which  should  be  well  heated ; have 


DRINKS. 


211 


ready  in  a cream  pitcher  the  well-whipped  whites  of  three  eggs  with 
three  tablespoons  powdered  sugar.  Cover  the  surface  of  each  cup 
with  the  sweetened  meringue  before  distributing  to  the  guests.  If 
liked,  substitute  scented  chocolate  for  Baker’s. 

Vienna  Chocolate. — Put  into  a coffee-pot  set  in  boiling  water  one 
quart  of  new  milk  (or  a pint  each  of  cream  and  milk),  stir  into  it 
three  heaping  tablespoons  grated  chocolate  mixed  to  a paste  with 
cold  milk,  let  it  boil  two  or  three  minutes,  and  serve  at  once  if  pos- 
sible, but  if  it  has  to  stand  a moment  or  two  longer,  set  where  it  will 
keep  hot,  but  not  boil.  If  not  wanted  so  rich  use  half  water.  Serve 
with  sweetened  whipped  cream  over  the  cups. 

Whipped  Chocolate. — Wet  three  tablespoons  chocolate  with  a 
little  boiling  water ; scald  one  quart  m'ilk,  stir  in  the  chocolate  paste 
and  simmer  ten  minutes ; put  a whip-churn  into  the  boiling  mixture 
and  churn  steadily  over  the  fire  until  it  is  a yeasty  froth.  Serve  at 
once.  Very  delicious  and  easily  prepared ; or,  melt  four  ounces 
grated  chocolate  over  a boiling  kettle,  add  gradually  three  cups  boil- 
ing water  and  one  ounce  sugar.  Set  it  upon  the  fire,  and  when 
scalding  hot  pour  it  upon  the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  well  beaten,  with 
one  and  one-half  gills  cold  water,  and  a pinch  of  cinnamon,  and  re- 
turn it  to  the  fire  for  a few  moments  to  cook  the  egg.  It  must  not 
boil,  but  should  be  beaten  with  an  egg-beater  all  the  time.  Serve 
very  hot. 

Army  Coihee. — Coffee  (or  tea)  may  be  made  quickly  by  placing 
the  required  quantity  of  cold  water. in  the  pot  and  adding  the  coffee 
tied  up  in  a sack  of  fine  gauze  or  piece  of  muslin.  Bring  to  boiling 
point,  boil  five  minutes  and  serve.  Make  Tea  in  the  same  way, 
except  that  the  tea  is  nut  loose  in  the  water  and  simply  allowed  to 
boil  up  once. 

Black  Coifee. — It  is  well  to  make  in  a pot  with  a filter.  Use  one 
cup  ground  coffee  to  every  quart  boiling  water ; put  the  coffee  into 
the  filter  and  pour  the  boiling  water  through  it  very  gradually ; let 
it  stand  where  it  will  keep  hot  while  the  water  is  being  poured  upon 
it ; do  not  stir  or  shake  the  coffee-pot,  and  serve  the  coffee  as  soon 
as  all  the  water  is  added.  When  the  black  coffee  is  wanted  strong 
and  bitter,  it  may  be  boiled  for  a few  moments.  Serve  in  after 
dinner  ” coffee-cups  at  the  close  of  the  meal  or  in  the  parlor  in  half 
an  hour. 

Clear  Coifee. — Coffee  can  be  made  without  straining  or  clarify- 
ing, in  any  kind  of  tin  or  iron  vessel,  in  this  way  : Have  ready  water 
that  is  actually  boiling ; heat  the  coarsely  ground  coffee  one  minute 
in  a frying-pan,  stirring  all  the  time.  For  one  quart  use  two  table- 
spoons ground  coffee.  When  coffee  is  liot  pour  boiling  water  upon 
it  and  stir  with  a spoon  one  minute ; let  stand  by  side  of  fire  where 
it  will  keep  hot  but  not  boil,  for  one  minute,  then  stir  it  again  for 


212 


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one  minute ; keep  by  the  fire  for  two  minutes  to  let  it  settle,  then 
pour  it  into  cups  carefully  enough  to  leave  the  grounds  in  the  bottom 
of  the  coffee-pot.  The  object  in  stirring  is  to  thoroughly  saturate 
the  coffee  with  the  boiling  water,  so  that  the  grounds  will  sink  to  the 
bottom  by  their  own  weight. 

Orusi  CoiFee. — Brown  in  oven  to  almost  charring,outside  crusts, 
slices  or  any  small  pieces  of  white,  rye  or  Graham  bread  (the  latter 
is  richer  and  gives  a finer  flavor),  being  as  careful  as  in  roasting 
coffee  that  it  is  not  burned.  Make  in  proportion  of  two  quarts  hot 
water  to  four  or  five  slices,  or  their  equivalent  in  small  pieces,  boil 
from  an  hour  to  an  hour  and  a half  and  serve  as  other  coffee,  which 
it  should  resemble  in  color.  Make  as  second  recipe  for  Iced  Tea  and 
Iced  Crust  CoiFee  will  result. 

Iced  CoiFee. — Make  more  coffee  than  usual  at  breakfast  time 
and  stronger.  Add  one-third  as  much  hot  milk  as  coffee  and  set 
away.  When  cold  put  upon  ice.  Serve  as  dessert  with  cracked  ice 
in  each  tumbler.  Or,  make  strong  coffee  and  when  it  is  cold  mix  it  with 
an  equal  quantity  of  fresh  cream,  sweeten  to  taste  and  half  freeze. 
Iced  Tea  may  be  made  the  same  way. 

Imperial  CoiFee. — For  two  persons,  take  four  rounding  tea- 
spoons coffee  tied  up  in  a piece  of  Swiss  muslin  (leave  plenty  of 
room  for  expansion) ; pour  on  two  cups  boiling  water,  cover  closely, 
and  set  back  on  the  range  about  ten  minutes.  Break  one  egg  in  a 
large  coffee-cup,  give  it  a good  whip  with  an  egg-beater,  divide  it 
half  in  each  cup,  add  the  usual  quantity  of  sugar,  pour  on  the  hot 
coffee,  add  warm  milk  and  one  spoonful  cream. 

Steamed  CoiFee. — Put  coffee  into  the  pot  and  pour  boiling  water 
on  it ; place  this  pot  (which  is  made  to  fit)  into  the  top  of  the  tea- 
kettle and  let  cook  from  ten  to  twenty  minutes  while  water  in  kettle 
is  kept  boiling  all  the  time.  This  makes  a clear,  delicious  coffee. 

Vienna  CoiFee. — Filter  instead  of  boiling  the  coffee,  allowing 
one  tablespoon  ground  coffee  to  each  person  and  “ one  for  the  pot.” 
Put  a quart  of  cream  into  a custard  kettle  or  pail  set  in  boiling  w^ater 
and  put  it  where  it  will  keep  boiling.  Beat  the  white  of  an  egg  to  a 
froth  and  mix  well  with  three  tablespoons  cold  milk.  As  soon  as 
the  cream  is  hot  remove  from  fire,  add  the  mixed  egg  and  milk,  stir 
together  briskly  for  a minute  and  then  serve. 

Warmed-over  CoiFee. — Save  all  that  is  left  after  each  meal, 
drain  it  off  into  a jar  or  earthen  vessel,  and  when  there  is  enough 
for  a single  meal,  turn  it  into  the  coffee-pot,  beat  an  egg  thoroughly 
and  stir  well  into  it  on  the  stove,  and  let  it  just  come  to  boiling; 
then  take  it  off,  pour  in  half  cup  cold  water,  and  if  the  coffee  was 
good  when  first  made,  it  will  be  just  as  good  the  second  time.  When 
a large  quantity  of  coffee  has  been  made  for  a party,  the  grounds 


DRINKS. 


213 


should  be  drained  and  put  away  in  a stone  jar ; make  coffee  as  usual 
except  using  double  the  quantity.  They  will  keep  good  for  v/eeks 

Whipped  Cream  Coifee. — For  six  cups  of  coffee  of  fair  size, 
take  one  cup  sw^eet  cream  whipped  light  wdth  a little  sugar;  put  into 
each  cup  the  desired  amount  of  sugar  and  about  a tablespoon  boil- 
ing milk ; pour  the  coffee  over  these  and  lay  upon  the  surface  of  the 
hot  liquid  a large  spoonful  of  the  frothed  cream,  giving  a gentle  stir 
to  each  cup  before  serving.  This  is  an  elegant  French  preparation. 
Chocolate  served  in  this  way  is  delicious. 

White  Coifee. — Use  coffee  that  instead  of  being  browned  is 
only  baked  to  a light  yellow  color  and  is  not  ground,  or  at  most  the 
berries  are  only  bruised,  taking  one-half  milk  and  one-half  water. 
It  requires  twice  as  much  coffee  as  the  ordinary.  For  eight  cups 
take  two  cups  light  baked  coffee  berries,  four  cups  boiling  water, 
five  cups  boiling  milk.  The  berries  may  have  been  parched  before, 
but  when  wanted  heat  them  over  again  and  throw  them  hot  into  the 
boiling  water,  close  the  lid  and  let  stand  to  draw  for  one-half  hour, 
then  add  the  boiling  milk  through  a strainer.  When  the  milk  is 
first  set  on  to  boil,  put  in  a tablespoon  or  two  of  sugar  to  prevent 
burning  at  the  bottom.  Serve  sugar  with  the  coffee  as  usual,  and, 
if  for  a party,  a spoonful  of  whipped  cream  in  each  cup. 

Wine  Coifee. — Put  three  ounces  finely-powdered  coffee  in  the 
top  compartment  of  the  percolator  or  coffee-pot,  pour  a quart  boil- 
ing water  over  it,  let  filter  through,  add  half  a pint  more  boiling 
water ; let  filter  through,  and  pour  it  out  into  a hot  measure,  and 
pour  through  the  filter  again.  Let  stand  a moment  on  the  range, 
and  the  coffee  will  be  clear  as  wine.  Care  must  be  taken  to  have 
everything  used  very  hot. 

Cafe  an  Lait. — First  heat  the  coffee-cups  and  then  fill  each 
3ne-third  full  of  hot  but  not  boiled  cream,  filling  up  with  good 
zlear  coffee.  Or  when  cream  cannot  be  had  use  boiled  milk,  in  any 
proportion  liked,  being  guided  by  the  strength  of  the  coffee.  Half 
and  half  is  a good  rule,  though  some  prefer  more  and  others  less 
coffee.  A little  cream  turned  into  the  cup  with  the  hot  milk  just 
before  filling  up  with  coffee  is  a great  improvement.  Frothed  Cafe 
au  Lait  is  made  as  above,  putting  spoonfuls  of  the  whipped  whites 
of  eggs,  slightly  sweetened,  on  the  top  of  each  cup,  heaping  a little 
in  the  center. 

Coifee  for  One  Hundred. — Take  five  pounds  roasted  coffee, 
grind  and  mix  with  six  eggs ; make  small  muslin  sacks,  and  in  each 
place  a pint  of  coffee,  leaving  room  for  it  to  swell ; put  five  gallons 
boiling  water  in  a large  coffee  urn  or  boiler  having  a faucet  at  the 
\>ottom ; put  in  part  of  the  sacks  and  boil  two  hours ; five  or  ten 
minutes  before  serving  raise  the  lid  and  add  one  or  two  more  sacks, 
and  if  you  continue  serving  several  times  add  fresh  sacks  at  regular 


214 


DRINKS. 


intervals,  taking  out  from  time  to  time  those  first  put  in  and  filling 
up  with  boiling  water  as  needed.  In  this  way  the  full  strength  of 
the  coffee  is  secured  and  the  fresh  supplies  impart  that  delicious 
flavor  consequent  on  a few  moments’  boiling.  To  make  coffee  for 
twenty  persons,  use  one  and  a half  pints  ground  coffee  and  one  gal- 
lon of  water. 

Coifee  Syrup. — Take  half  pound  best  ground  coffee,  put  it  into 
a saucepan  containing  three  pints  water,  and  boil  it  down  to  one 
pint ; boil  the  liquor,  put  it  into  another  saucepan,  well  scoured,  and 
boil  it  again.  As  it  boils  add  white  sugar  enough  to  give  the  con- 
sistency of  syrup  ; take  it  from  the  fire,  and  when  it  is  cool  put  in  a 
bottle  and  seal.  When  traveling,  if  3mu  wish  for  a cup  of  good 
coffee  put  two  teaspoons  of  the  S3^rup  into  an  ordinary  cup,  and 
pour  boiling  water  upon  it,  and  it  is  ready  to  use.  A weaker  syrup 
is  made  thus  : To  every  quarter  pound  ground  coffee  allow  one  small 
teaspoon  powdered  chicory,  and  one  pint  water.  Let  the  coffee  be 
freshly  ground,  and,  if  possible,  freshty  roasted ; put  it  into  a filter 
with  the  chicory  and  pour  slowly  over  it  the  above  proportion  of 
boiling  water.  When  it  has  all  filtered  through,  warm  the  coffee 
sufficientl3^  to  bring  it  to  the  simmering  point,  but  do  not  allow  it  to 
boil ; then  filter  it  a second  time,  put  it  into  a clean  and  dry  bottle, 
cork  it  well,  and  it  will  remain  good  for  several  days.  Two  table- 
spoons of  this  essence  are  quite  sufficient  for  a breakfast  cup  of  hot 
milk.  This  essence  will  be  found  particularly  useful  to  those  per- 
sons who  have  to  rise  extremel3^  early,  and  having  only  the  milk  to 
make  boiling,  is  very  easily  and  quickly  prepared.  When  the  es- 
sence is  bottled,  pour  about  three  tea-cups  of  hoiling  water  slowly 
on  the  grounds,  which,  when  filtered  through,  will  be  a very  weak 
coffee.  The  next  time  there  is  essence  to  be  prepared,  make  this 
weak  coffee  boiling,  and  pour  it  on  the  ground  coffee  instead  of  plain 
Avater ; by  this  means  a better  coffee  will  be  obtained.  Never  throAV 
away  the  grounds  without  having  made  use  of  them  in  this  manner, 
and  alAva3"s  cork  the  bottle  Avell  that  contains  this  preparation,  until 
the  day  that  it  is  wanted  for  making  the  fresh  essence. 

Iced  Tea. — To  have  it  perfect  and  without  the  least  trace  of  bit- 
ter, put  tea  in  cold  water  hours  before  it  is  to  be  used,  the  night  pre- 
vious if  for  breakfast  or  twelve-o’clock  dinner,  and  in  the  morning  if 
for  tea ; the  delicate  flavor  of  the  tea  and  abundant  strength  will  be 
extracted,  and  there  will  not  be  a trace  of  the  tannic  acid  which  ren- 
ders tea  so  often  disagreeable  and  undrinkable.  Use  only  the  usual 
quantity  of  tea.  Put  broken  ice  in  it  a few  minutes  before  serAung. 
Iced  tea  can  be  served  with  a light  froth  like  that  of  ale  on  top,  if 
shaken  with  the  ice  in  it  in  tAvo  glasses  placed  one  OA^er  the  other — the 
brims  together.  Another  method  is  to  prepare  tea  in  the  morning, 
making  it  stronger  and  SAveeter  than  usual ; strain  and  pour  into  a 
clean  stone  jug  or  glass  bottle,  and  set  aside  in  the  ice-chest  until 


DRINKS. 


215 


ready  to  use.  Drink  from  goblets  without  cream.  Serve  ice  broken  in 
small  pieces  on  a platter  nicely  garnished  with  well-w^ashe(?l  grape- 
leaves.  Iced  Coifee  may  be  made  same  way.  Iced  tea  may  be  prepared 
from  either  green  or  black  alone,  but  it  is  considered  an  improvement 
to  mix  the  two.  Tea  made  like  that  for  iced  tea  ( or  that  left  in  the  tea- 
pot after  a meal)  with  a slice  or  two  of  lemon,  juice  of  half  a lemon 
to  each  glass,  well  sweetened,  and  some  pieces  of  cracked  ice,  makes 
a delightful  drink,  and  is  called  Lemon  Tea. 

Tea  for  Forty. — Have  two  and  one-half  gallons  boiling  water 
ready,  put  a quarter  pound  tea  in  a box  made  of  perforated  tin,  or 
in  a muslin  bag,  and  drop  it  into  the  water,  which  must  then  be 
kept  from  boiling  and  set  where  it  will  be  kept  hot.  May  be  served 
like  coffee  with  whipped  cream  or  a meringue  of  whites  of  eggs  on 
each  cup. 

Tea  an  Lait. — ^Beat  a teaspoon  or  so  of  sugar  with  the  whipped 
■white  of  an  egg ; stir  in  a glass  of  new  milk  and  then  a cup  very  hot 
tea,  beating  all  up  well  together  and  sweetening  to  taste.  A very 
palatable  mixture  and  valuable  for  persons  wdio  suffer  much  from 
weakness. 


Strawberry  Acid. — Dissolve  five  ounces  tartaric  acid  in  two 
quarts  water  and  pour  it  upon  twelve  pounds  strawberries  in  a por- 
celain kettle ; let  it  simmer  forty-eight  hours,  strain,  taking  care  not 
to  bruise  the  fruit ; to  every  pint  juice  add  one  and  one-half  pounds 
sugar  and  stir  until  dissolved,  then  leave  it  a few  days  ; bottle  and 
cork  lightly ; if  a slight  fermentation  takes  place  leave  the  cork  out 
a few  days,  then  cork,  seal  and  keep  bottles  in  a cold  place.  Drink, 
mixing  desired  quantity  wi  h ice  water.  To  make  Royal  Strawberry 
Acid  take  three  pounds  ripe  strawberries,  two  ounces  citric  acid  and 
one  quart  water ; dissolve  the  acid  in  the  water  and  pour  it  over  the 
berries ; let  them  stand  in  a cool  place  twenty-four  hours,  draw  off, 
and  pour  in  three  pounds  more  berries  and  let  stand  twenty-four 
hours ; add  to  the  liquor  its  own  weight  of  sugar,  hoil  three  or  four 
minutes  each  day  for  three  days,  then  cork  tightly  and  seal.  Keep 
in  a dry  and  cool  place. 

Iced  Buttermilk. — There  is  no  healthier  drink  than  buttermilk, 
but  it  must  be  creamy,  rich  buttermilk  to  be  good.  And  to  provide 
for  this,  when  skimming  the  milk  take  plenty  of  milk  with  the  cream, 
using  a dipper  for  the  purpose  instead  of  a skimmer.  It  shoulcl 
stand  on  ice  to  cool,  though  if  very  rich  and  thick  a little  ice  in  it  is 
an  improvement.  As  a drink  for  men  at  work  in  the  hot  sun  butter- 
milk is  far  preferable  to  cider  or  beer,  as  it  is  not  only  cooling  and 
refreshing,  but  strength-giving ; for  the  butter  taken  from  the  milk 
is  only  the  carbonaceous  or  heat-producing  element,  and  all  the 
nourishing  qualities  that  make  it  so  valuable  as  food  are  left  in  the 
buttermilk. 


216 


DRINKS. 


Cider. — Cider  should  he  made  from  ripe  apples  only,  and  for 
this  reason,  and  to  prevent  fermentation,  it  is  better  to  make  it  late 
in  the  season.  Use  only  the  best  flavored  grafted  fruit,  rejecting  all 
that  is  decayed  or  wormy.  The  best  mills  crush,  not  grind,  the 
apples.  The  utmost  neatness  is  necessary  throughout  the  process. 
Press  and  strain  juice  as  it  comes  from  the  press  through  a woolen 
cloth  into  a perfectly  clean  barrel ; let  stand  two  or  three  days  if 
cool,  if  warm  not  more  than  a day ; rack  once  a week  for  four  weeks, 
put  in  bottles  and  cork  tightly.  This  will  make  perfect  unfer- 
mented cider.  Do  not  put  anything  in  it  to  preserve  it,  as  all  so- 
called  preservatives  are  humbugs.  Lay  the  bottles  away  on  their 
sides  in  sawdust. 

Bottled  Cider. — Take  good  sweet  cider  (if  a tart  flavor  is  wished 
let  it  just  begin  to  ferment),  put  on  stove,  sMm  thoroughly  (as  the 
great  secret  is  to  remove  all  pumice  from  the  cider),  heat  to  boiling 
point,  but  do  not  allow  it  to  boil,  and  then  pour  in  bottles  or  jugs, 
and  seal  while  hot.  Some  put  two  or  three  raisins  in  each  bottle  oi 
jug.  This  keeps  all  winter.  It  certainly  makes  a richer  drink  than 
when  fresh,  and  as  cider  is  pronounced  a great  remedy  for  colds,  all 
should  know  this  simple  way  of  keeping. 

Mulled  Cider. — Dilute  cider  with  an  equal  quantity  of  water, 
and  for  every  two  quarts  mixture  allow  the  yolks  of  three  or  four 
eggs ; beat  eggs  smooth,  mix  with  a little  cold  cider,  stir  into  the/ 
diluted  cider  and  boil  up,  stirring  rapidly  all  the  time,  using  the 
whip-churn  or  egg-beater  as  in  Whipped  Chocolate.  Sweeten  to 
taste  and  season  with  allspice,  unground.,  and  drink  either  hot  or 
cold. 

Curry  Cordial. — Boil  one  pint  good  milk  and  add  a teaspoon 
curry  powder  and  sugar  to  taste.  Drink  while  hot.  Good  on  a 
frosty  morning. 

Raspberry  Cordial. — Three  quarts  black  raspberries  and  one 
quart  vinegar ; let  stand  in  stone  jar  two  or  three  days,  mashing 
thoroughly,  strain,  and  to  every  pint  syrup  add  one  pound  white 
sugar  and  set  in  cool  place,  stirring  frequently.  When  the  sugar  is 
thoroughly  dissolved,  strain  and  bottle.  No  cooking  is  required;  it 
destroys  the  fruit  flavor.  For  use,  mix  in  a glass  with  ice-water  ac- 
cording to  taste ; nice  in  hot  weather,  or  in  sickness,  particularly 
fevers. 

Almond  Cream. — Wash,  and  pound  in  a mortar  two  ounces  Jor- 
dan almonds,  one-half  ounce  bitter  almonds,  that  have  been  scalded 
and  skimmed,  together  with  a tablespoon  orange-flower  water  and  two 
ounces  loaf  sugar.  Add  a few  drops  water  occasionally,  while  pound- 
ing, to  avoid  too  much  oiliness.  When  this  mixture  looks  smooth 
and  creamy,  put  it  into  a clean  basin,  add  one  pint  water  and  stir 
with  a silver  or  thin  wooden  spoon.  Leave  it  thus  two  hours,  when 


DRINKS. 


217 


strain  off  the  cream,  which  should  be  kept  either  on  ice,  or  in  some 
exceedingly  cool  place,  or  it  will  perhaps  turn  sour.  Serve  with  an 
.equal  quantity  of  water. 

Currant  Cup. — To  a pint  currant  juice  add  one  pound  sugar, 
and  ice-water  to  taste ; mix  and  use  at  once. 

Fruit  Cup. — Pare  the  yellow  rind  very  thinly  from  twelve  lem- 
ons, squeeze  the  juice  over  it  in  an  earthen  bowl,  and  let  it  stand 
overnight  if  possible ; pare  and  slice  thinly  a very  ripe  pine-apple, 
and  let  it  lay  overnight  in  a half  pound  powdered  sugar ; crush  one 
quart  berries  and  let  them  lay  overnight  in  half  pound  powdered 
sugar.  If  all  these  ingredients  cannot  be  prepared  the  day  before 
they  are  used,  they  must  be  done  very  early  in  the  morning,  because 
the  juices  of  the  fruit  need  to  be  incorporated  with  the  sugar  at  least 
twelve  hours  before  the  beverage  is  used.  After  all  the  ingredients 
lave  been  properly  prepared  as  above,  strain  off  the  juice,  carefully 
pressing  all  of  it  out  of  the  fruit ; mix  it  with  two  pounds  powdered 
sugar  and  three  quarts  ice-water,  and  stir  until  sugar  is  dissolved. 
Then  strain  again  through  a muslin  or  bolting-cloth  sieve  and  put 
on  the  ice  or  in  very  cool  place  until  wanted  for  use. 

Harvest  Drink. — One  quart  water,  tablespoon  sifted  ginger, 
three  heaping  tablespoons  sugar,  half  pint  vinegar;  add  spices  to 
‘;aste  if  wished. 

Jelly  Drink.  — A little  jelly  or  fruit  syrup  dissolved  in  a glass 
of  ice-water  with  a little  sugar  is  a refreshing  drink. 

Lemon  Drink. — Seven  pounds  white  sugar,  two  quarts  boiling 
water ; let  boil  ten  minutes,  then  take  off  and  let  stand  till  cool ; add 
t.wo  ounces  tartaric  acid,  one-half  ounce  gum  arabic,  fifty-four  drops 
essence  of  lemon. 

Oatmeal  Drink. — Take  four  tablespoons  Scotch  .oatmeal,  put 
into  a small  jug  and  fill  up  with  clear,  cool  water ; shake  well  and 
allow  it  to  settle.  This  makes  a most  refreshing  drink  in  hot  weather 
and  quenches  thirst  more  than  any  other  liquid. 

Soda  Foam. — Two  pounds  white  sugar,  whites  of  two  eggs,  two 
ounces  tartaric  acid,  two  tablespoons  flour,  two  quarts  water  and 
juice  of  one  lemon ; boil  two  or  three  minutes,  and  flavor  to  taste. 
When  wanted  for  use  take  a half  teaspoon  soda,  dissolve  in  half  a 
glass  Avater,  pour  into  it  about  tAVO  tablespoons  of  the  acid,  and  it 
will  foam  to  the  top  of  the  glass. 

Lemonade. — The  method  of  making  this  universally  popular 
and  refreshing  beA^erage  varies  according  to  the  taste  of  individuals, 
some  liking  the  flavor  of  the  rind,  others  not,  and  some  preferring 
more,  others  less  sugar.  It  Avill  be  Avell  to  remember  that  Avhen  the 
rind  or  peel  is  used  the  lemonade  is  spoiled  by  standing,  the  soaked 
rind  giving  it  a bitter  taste,  and  to  be  good  it  must  be  served  imme- 


218 


DRINKS. 


diately  after  making.  Instead  of  using  cracked  ice,  many  prefer  to 
half  freeze  lemonades,  sherbets,  and  all  drinks  of  the  kind,  serving 
in  glasses  as  usual,  and  this  is  considered  much  the  more  elegant 
way.  Or  the  same  effect  may  be  produced  by  pounding  ice  in  a bag 
into  fine  particles  and  add  to  the  lemonade,  previously  cooled  on  or 
with  ice,  just  before  serving.  Or,  if  necessary  to  prepare  hastily, 
crack  the  ice  into  small  bits  and  place  some  in  the  bottom  of  each 
glass  before  filling,  beside  adding  it  to  the  quantity  of  liquid.  Always 
roll  the  lemons  with  the  hand  on  the  table  before  using,  as  this 
breaks  up  the  fibers  and  the  juice  can  then  be  extracted  more  easily 
and  thoroughly ; and  in  making  lemonade  always  remove  the  seeds. 
The  best  way  of  securing  the  flavor  of  the  rind  is  to  rub  the  lemons 
with  lumps  of  sugar,  or  if  there  are  no  lumps  sprinkle  some  of  the 
sugar  on  a plate  and  roll  the  lemons  over  it ; this  extracts  the  oil  of 
the  rind,  and  the  sugar  used,  which  is  now  called  the  ‘^zest,”  is  added 
to  that  intended  for  sweetening.  Some  boil  the  peel  in  a little  watei 
and  strain  it  for  flavoring,  or  let  it  stand  in  water  an  hour  or  two. 

A very  nice  Every-day  Lemonade  is  made  as  follows  : Roll  six 
’’emons  well,  peel,  cut  in  halves,  and 
with  the  lemon  squeezer  squeeze  the 
juice  over  two  cups  white  sugar,  add 
the  pulp  and  let  stand  till  the  sugar 
dissolves,  add  one  gallon  water  and 
lumps  of  ice,  pour  into  pitcher  and 
serve.  Some  add  soda  after  the  glasses 
Are  filled,  and  stir  rapidly  for  Spark- 
liny  Lemonade.  If  the  flavor  is  liked 
add  the  zest  from  two  or  three  of  the  lemons.  Or,  if  wanted  strong- 
er, take  the  juice  of  one  dozen  lemons,  three  quarts  water,  and  eight 
ounces  sugar,  or  sweeten  to  taste ; partially  freeze,  or  add  pounded 
ice.  For  Lemon  Frappee  add  the  whipped  whites  of  six  eggs. 
Some  use  a half  pint  lemon  juice  to  three  pints  water  and  one  pint 
sugar.  Another  excellent  recipe  requires  one-half  pound  loaf  sugar, 
three  large  or  four  small  lemons,  and  a quart  boiling  water.  Rub 
some  of  the  sugar,  in  lumps,  on  two  of  the  lemons  until  they  have 
imbibed  all  the  oil  from  them,  and  put  with  the  remainder  of  the 
sugar  into  a jug  ; add  the  lemon  juice  (but  no  seeds),  and  pour  over 
the  whole  the  quart  of  boiling  water.  When  the  sugar  is  dissolved, 
strain  lemonade  through  a fine  sieve  or  piece  of  muslin,  and  when 
cool  it  will  be  ready  for  use  ; much  improved  by  adding-  the  well- 
beaten  white  of  an  egg.  Tutti  Frutti  L^emonade  is  made  thus : 
Pare  the  yelloAV  rind  thinly  from  two  oranges  and  six  lemons  and 
steep  it  four  hours  in  a quart  of  hot  water.  Boil  a pound  and  a half 
loaf  sugar  in  three  pints  water,  skimming  until  it  is  clear.  Pour 
these  two  mixtures  together;  add  to  juice  of  six  oranges  and 
twelve  lemons,  mix  and  strain  through  a jelly-bag  until  clear,  and 
keep  cool  until  wanted  for  use.  If  the  beverage  is  to  be  kept  several 


DRINKS. 


219 


days,  it  should  be  put  into  clean  glass  bottles  and  corked  tightly. 
If  for  a small  party,  half  the  quantity  will  be  sufficient.  The  juice 
of  oranges  improves  any  lemonade.  When  a lemon  squeezer  is  not 
at  hand  slice  the  lemons  thinly  into  a crock  or  pitcher  over  the 
sugar,  let  stand  a few  minutes  and  pound  with  the  potato  masher  to 
extract  the  juice,  add  the  water  and  strain.  If  it  is  thought  that  the 
slices  of  lemon  add  to  the  appearance  of  lemonade,  cut  one  lemon 
in  very  thin  slices  for  the  purpose,  sprinkling  sugar  over  them,  and 
add  last,  or  put  a slice  or  two  in  each  glass.  Orangeade  is  made 
same  as  lemonade,  substituting  oranges  and  using  a little  less  sugar. 

Eifervescing  Lemonade. — Work  into  one  pound  granulated 
sugar  thirty-three  drops  oil  of  lemon,  and  sift  through  hair  sieve ; 
sift  into  this  two  and  a half  ounces  tartaric  acid  and  then  two  and  a 
half  ounces  carbonate  of  soda.  Keep  the  compound  air-tight  and 
perfectly  dr}^  Use  by  stirring  two  teaspoons  of  it  into  a glass  of 
ice- water.  Buy  the  materials  of  reliable  druggist,  and  keep  in  tight* 
-ly  corked  bottles. 

Egg  Lemonade. — This  recipe  makes  fifty  glasses.  Eight  quarts 
prater,  three  pounds  sugar  (six  or  seven  cups),  two  dozen  lemons, 
two  oranges,  whites  of  eight  or  ten  eggs ; grate  the  rinds  of  eight  or 
ten  lemons  and  the  oranges  into  a large  howl,  using  a tin  grater,  and 
take  less  or  more  according  to  the  size  and  degree  of  ripeness  of  the 
fruit.  Put  a little  sugar  in  the  bowl  and  rub  together  with  the  back 
(•f  a spoon.  Squeeze  in  the  juice  of  all,  add  the  sugar  and  some 
vrater,  and  then  the  frothed  whites  of  eggs  and  beat  the  mixture  until 
the  sugar  is  dissolved.  Put  in  remainder  of  water,  strain  into  a ves- 
sel containing  a quantity  of  cracked  ice,  and  when  served  fill  a glass 
three  parts  full,  invert  another  on  top,  the  rims  close  together,  and 
shake  up  to  make  the  foam.  Use  half  or  quarter  of  the  recipe  if  this 
quantity  is  too  large. 

Hot  Lemonade. — To  six  lemons  allow  three-quarters  pound 
lump  sugar  and  a pint  boiling  water ; rub  the  lemons  with  some  of 
the  sugar,  peel  them  very  thin,  strain  the  juice,  put  it  with  the  sugar 
into  a jug  or  pitcher  and  pour  over  it  four  pints  boiling  water ; cover 
the  jug  well  with  a cloth  to  keep  in  the  steam  and  drink  hot.  Or, 
take  the  juice  of  one  lemon  for  one  glass  and  sweeten  to  taste. 
Excellent  for  a cold. 

Milk  Lemonade. — Loaf  sugar,  one  and  a half  pounds,  dissolved 
in  a quart  boiling  water,  with  half  a pint  lemon  juice  and  one  and  ^ 
half  pints  milk. 

Picnic  Lemonade. — Roll  the  lemons ; peel,  and  squeeze  the 
juice  into  a bowl  or  tumbler — never  use  tin — and  strain  out  seeds,  afi 
they  give  a bad  taste.  Boil  the  pulp  in  water,  a nint  to  a dozen  pulps, 
to  remove  the  acid.  A few  minutes’ boilira^  is  enousdi.  Strain  thu) 


220 


DRINKS. 


water  into  the  juice  of  the  lemons ; take  a pound  white  sugar  to  a 
pint  liquid,  boil  ten  minutes,  bottle,  and  it  is  ready  for  use.  Put  a 
teaspoon  or  two  of  this  syrup  to  a glass  of  water.  Or,  roll  the  fruit 
in  a little  granulated  sugar  spread  upon  a marble  or  other  hard 
surface  to  obtain  the  zest,  squeeze  the  lemons  into  a bowl,  remove 
seeds  and  add  sugar  and  zest.  Bottle  and  add  a teaspoon  or  two  to 
water  as  wanted. 

Pocket  Lemonade. — One  ounce  powdered  tartaric  acid,  six 
ounces  powdered  white  sugar  and  one  drachm  essence  of  lemon ; mix 
and  dr}^  thoroughly  in  the  sun,  divide  into  twenty-four  equal  parts, 
and  wrap  carefully  in  paper;  each  powder  makes  a glass  of  nice 
sweet  lemonade.  Most  excellent  and  refreshing  when  traveling. 

Mead. — Three  pounds  brown  sugar,  one  pint  molasses,  one- 
fourth  pound  tartaric  acid ; pour  over  the  mixture  two  quarts  boil- 
ing water  and  stir  till  dissolved.  When  cold  add  half  ounce  essence 
sassafras,  or  flavor  with  fruit  juices,  orange  or  lemon  peel  or  aro' 
matic  herbs,  and  bottle.  To  make  a nice  drink  put  three  table- 
spoons of  it  in  a tumbler,  half  fill  with  ice  water,  add  a little  more 
than  one-fourth  teaspoon  soda  and  drink  while  foaming. 

Blackherry  Nectar. — To  each  quart  water  take  one  pound 
crushed  berries,  a sliced  lemon  and  teaspoon  orange  flower  water ; 
mix  and  let  stand  in  earthen  bowl  three  hours  ; strain  thoroughly , 
squeezing  all  juice  from  fruit ; dissolve  one  pound  sugar  in  the  liquid, 
strain  again  and  put  on  ice  until  ready  to  serve ; or  half  freeze  it. 
Any  other  berri-BS  may  be  used  in  their  season. 

Cherry  Nectar. — Select  the  finest  and  ripest  of  May-Duke  or 
Morello  cherries.  Pound  well  with  stones  in  them.  The  stones  are 
retained  because  they  add  to  the  native  flavor  of  the  pulp.  Press 
out  the  juice  through  a hair  sieve,  add  a little  water  and  give  one 
boil,  filter  through  a flannel  bag,  add  a small  quantity  sy^rup,  a little 
lemon  juice  and  a little  more  water.  Do  not  make  too  sweet.  The 
tendency  in  all  these  cordials  is  to  extinguish  the  sub-acids  of  the 
fruit  in  too  much  sugar.  Put  into  a freezer  surrounded  by  ice ; keep 
as  cold  as  wished  by  surrounding  with  ice.  Do  not  dilute  it  by  put- 
ting ice  into  the  beverage  itself. 

Cream  Nectar. — Put  into  a porcelain  kettle  three  pounds  loaf 
sugar,  two  ounces  tartaric  acid  and  one  quart  water ; set  on  the  fire, 
and  when  warm  add  the  whites  of  two  eggs  beaten  to  a froth,  stir  it 
well  for  a few  minutes  but  do  not  let  boil.  When  cool,  strain  and 
add  a teaspoon  essence  of  lemon  and  bottle.  Put  two  tablespoonfuls 
in  a glass,  fill  it  half  full  of  cold  water  and  stir  in  one-fourth  tea- 
spoon soda.  Drink  while  effervescing. 

Grape  Nectar. — Stem  and  squeeze  well  two  pounds  Catawba 
grapes  m a coarse  cloth,  add  to  the  juice  three  tablespoons  loaf 


DRINKS. 


221 


sugar  and  when  this  is  dissolved  a cup  cold  water ; set  on  ice  till  cold^ 
pour  into  pitcher  over  a lump  of  ice  and  drink  at  once.  Add  more 
sugar  if  liked,  or  if  grapes  are  not  quite  ripe.  Very  good. 

Welsh  Nectar. — Cut  the  peel  of  three  lemons  very  thin,  poui 
upon  it  two  gallons  boiling  water,  and  when  cool  add  the  strained 
juice  of  the  lemons,  two  pounds  loaf  sugar  and  one  pound  raisins, 
stoned  and  chopped  very  fine.  Let  stand  four  or  five  days,  stirring 
every  day,  then  strain  through  jelly-bag  and  bottle  for  present  use. 

Orangeade. — Put  thin  peel  of  three  oranges  in  one  pint  syrup 
(made  by  boiling  three-fourths  pound  loaf  sugar  in  one  pint 
water).  Press  out  the  juice  of  twelve  fine  large  oranges  through  a 
fine  hair  sieve  into  a crock  or  pitcher.  Add  the  syrup  and  three  pints 
cold  water,  mix,  and  let  stand  in  ice  for  an  hour. 

Lemon  Sherbet. — Grate  the  rinds  of  two  lemons  into  a bowl  and 
squeeze  in  the  juice ; make  a boiling  syrup  of  one  pound  sugar  and 
one  pint  water  and  pour  it  hot  over  this,  and  let  remain  till  cold,  oi 
as  long  as  convenient,  to  extract  the  flavor.  Then  add  one  pint 
water,  strain  into  the  freezer  and  freeze  as  usual.  When  pretty  well 
frozen  whip  whites  of  three  eggs  to  a froth,  stir  them  in,  beat  up 
and  freeze  again.  Or  soak  tablespoon  gelatine  in  a little  cold  water 
and  add  it  to  one  pint  boiling  water ; then  add  pint  each  sugar  and 
water  and  juice  of  five  lemons  and  half-freeze ) or  boil  pint  and  a 
half  sugar  and  three  pints  water  half  an  hour;  add  juice  of  ten 
lemons,  strain  and  half  freeze.  For  Orange  Sherbet  make  as  either 
of  above  recipes  using  twice  as  many  oranges,  and  if  not  very  acid 
add  juice  of  a lemon.  For  Pineapple  Sherbet  use  one  large  pine- 
apple or  one  and  a half  cans.  Cut  hearts  and  eyes  from  the  fruit, 
chop  fine  and  add  pint  sugar  and  juice  from  can  and  the  soaked  table- 
spoon gelatine  dissolved  in  half  pint  boiling  water ; then  add  half 
pint  cold  water  and  half  freeze  as  above  ; or  cook  fruit  in  pint  water 
twenty  minutes,  and  then  pulp  through  a sieve ; boil  a syrup  of 
pint  each  sugar  and  water  fifteen  minutes  and  then  add  fruit  pulp 
and  cook  fifteen  minutes  longer,  add  juice  from  cans  and  freeze. 

Milh  Sherbet. — Boil  two  quarts  milk ; when  cold  put  into 
freezer.  Take  the  juice  of  six  or  seven  lemons — according  to  size, 
and  one  pound  and  a half  sugar,  dissolved  in  as  little  water  as  pos- 
sible. Whip  whites  of  two  eggs  and  stir  in  the  milk ; add  the  lemon 
juice  after  it  begins  to  freeze  a little ; then  mix  thoroughly  and 
freeze. 

Pine-apple  Sherbet. — One  pine-apple,  fuur  lemons,  two  quarts 
water,  two  teacups  sugar;  steep  the  pine-apple  in  the  water  for  two 
hours;  strain  and  add  the  juice  of  the  lemons  and  sugar;  whip  the 
whites  of  five  eggs,  add  to  them  three  tablespoons  sugar,  place  all  in 
freezer  and  half  freeze.  Adding  the  sugar  to  the  whites  gives  bod}.’ 
to  the  sherbet;  it  is  excellent.  To  one-half  gallon  rich  lemonado 


222 


DRINKS. 


add  one  can  prepared  pine-apple ; whip  one  pint  cream  and  sweeten^ 
add  the  whites  of  three  well-beaten  eggs  and  stir  them  both  in  just 
before  freezing.  Serve  in  glasses. 

Strawberry  Sherbet. — Crush  a pound  berries  and  add  to  them 
one  quart  water,  a sliced  lemon,  and  one  teaspoon  orange  flower 
water,  if  at  hand.  Let  stand  in  an  earthen  bowl  for  three  hours ; 
then  strain,  squeezing  all  the  juice  out  of  the  fruit.  Dissolve  one 
pound  powdered  sugar  in  it,  strain  again,  and  put  on  ice  until 
ready  to  serve.  Or  mash  two  quarts  berries  and  one  pint  sugar  to- 
gether and  let  stand  two  hours,  then  add  pint  water  and  strain,  rub 
through  a sieve,  soak  a tablespoon  gelatine  in  cold  water  to  cover, 
add  half  pint  boiling  water  and  pour  this  to  the  mixture  and  half 
freeze.  Raspberry  Sherbet  is  made  same  way.  For  Ciirrant  Sher- 
bet^ take  pint  each  juice,  water  and  sugar,  one  tablespoon  gelatine, 
and  juice  of  one  lemon  ; soak  gelatine  in  a little  cold  water,  and  dis- 
solve it  in  half  pint  boiling  water,  add  other  ingredients  and  freeze ; 
or  boil  one  quart  water  and  pint  sugar  half  an  hour ; add  pint  cur- 
rant juice  and  juice  of  a lemon,  let  cool  and  freeze. 

Currant  Shrub. — Make  the  same  as  jelly,  but  boil  only  ten 
minutes  ; when  cool,  bottle  and  cork  tight,  as  canned  fruits.  Rasp- 
berry^ Strawberry  and  Blackberry  Shrubs  can  be  made  in  the  same 
way ; when  used,  put  in  two-thirds  ice-water ; or  place  currants  in 
crock  and  cover  with  a little  water ; put  in  a kettle  of  hot  water  and 
when  heated  through,  drain,  let  stand  overnight  and  finish  as  Rasp- 
berry Shrub. 

Gooseberry  Shrub. — Pour  enough  boiling  water  over  green 
gooseberries  to  cover  them,  and  place  a cloth  over  them ; let  stand 
till  cold,  drain,  and  place  juice  on  stove,  and  when  boiling  pour 
again  over  the  berries,  cover,  cool,  drain,  and  proceed  as  before. 
Then  drain,  let  stand  overnight,  and  finish  as  Raspberry  Shrub. 

Raspberry  Shrub  or  Vinegar. — Place  red  raspberries  in  a stone 
jar,  cover  with  good  cider  vinegar,  using  about  one  quart  vinegar  to 
two  gallons  fruit,  let  stand  two  or  three  days,  strain  through  a jelly- 
bag,  squeezing  carefully ; let  stand  overnight  so  it  will  become  per- 
fectly clear;  measure  and  place  on  stove,  and  boil  and  skim  until 
it  boils  up  clear;  add  one  pint  sugar  to  every  pint  juice  as  just 
measured,  and  cook  half  an  hour.  Let  stand  till  cold,  then  can  and 
seal  as  directed  in  Canning  Fruits.  Some  use  one-third  vinegar  (one 
quart  to  two  quarts  truit)  but  if  fruit  is  juicy  the  above  proportions 
make  a much  finer  flavored  shrub.  Black  raspberries  may  be  used,  or 
strawberries,  making  Strawberry  Shrub,  and  blackberries,  using 
for  latter  only  a pint  sugar  to  one  quart  juice,  making  Blackberry 
Shrub.  Some,  after  straining,  let  it  simmer  on  back  of  stove  two 
hours,  while  others  let  boil  ten  minutes,  in  either  Avay  canning  when 
hot,  but  the  above  method  has  been  “tried  and  not  found  wanting.” 


DRINKS. 


22;: 


Always  procure  very  ripe,  juicy  fruit.  For  a drink  use  two  or  thre<3 
teaspoons  to  one  glass  water,  according  to  strength  desired. 


Eifervescing  Soda. — Mix  half  a teaspoon  powdered  bicarbonati 
of  soda  thoroughly  with  two  tablespoons  syrup  of  any  flavor  liked ; 
add  six  or  eight  times  as  much  cold  water ; while  stirring  it  mix  in 
half  teaspoon  powdered  tartaric  acid  and  drink  at  once.  This  is  for 
immediate  use.  Or  mix  the  syrup  and  ivater  in  above  proportions  and 
fill  into  bottles  ; put  in  each  bottle  half  a drachm  each  of  crystal- 
lized bicarbonate  of  potassa  and  crystallized  tartaric  acid  and  cork 
immediately.  The  above  quantity  is  for  soda  bottles ; wine  bottles 
will  require  double  the  quantity. 

Lemon  Syrup. — Take  the  juice  of  twelve  lemons,  grate  the  rind 
of  six  in  it,  let  it  stand  overnight,  then  take  six  pounds  white  sugar 
and  make  a thick  syrup.  When  it  is  quite  cool  strain  the  juice  into 
it  and  squeeze  as  much  oil  from  the  grated  rind  as  will  suit  the  taste, 
and  bottle.  A tablespoon  in  a glass  of  water  will  make  a delicious 
drink  on  a hot  day,  far  superior  to  that  prepared  from  the  stuff  com- 
monly sold  as  lemon  S3"rup.  Or,  boil  two  pounds  loaf  sugar  with 
two  pints  water  for  fifteen  minutes  and  put  in  a basin  until  cold. 
Pound  one  ounce  citric  acid  to  a powder  and  mix  with  it  one-half 
drachm  essence  of  lemon  and  add  to  the  syrup,  mix  well  and  bottle 
for  use.  Two  tablespoons  of  the  syrup  are  sufficient  for  a tumbler 
of  cold  water,  and  will  be  found  a ver\"  refreshing  summer  drink. 

Orange  Syrup. — Use  fully  ripe  thin-skinned  fruit;  squeeze  the 
juice  through  a sieve  and  add  a pound  sugar  to  everv  pint ; boil 
slowly  ten  minutes,  skim  carefully,  and  bottle  when  cold.  Two  or 
three  tablespoons  of  this  in  a glass  of  ice  water  will  be  found  a re- 
freshing summer  drink.  It  may  also  be  used  with  melted  butter  for 
pudding  sauce. 

Tisane. — To  make  Prune  Tisane^  take  of  F rench  plums  or 
prunes  two  ounces  and  a half ; cut  them  in  two  and  boil  them  for  an 
hour  in  a sufficient  quantity  of  water  to  make  a quart  of  tisane ; 
strain  through  a sieve.  Date,  Fig  and  J ujube  Tisanes  are  made  in 
a similar  manner. 


Currant  Water. — Pick  over  one  pound  cur- 
rants and  half  pound  raspberries  and  add  one- 
half  pint  water,  bruising  or  crushing  all  tcgether' 
with  a wooden  spoon.  Put  the  pulp  into  a pre- 
serving kettle  with  one-half  pound  crushed  loaf 
sugar.  Stir  over  the  fire  till  just  about  to  sim- 
rner,  put  through  a puree  sieve  and  add  three 
gills  syrup  (made  with  sugar  and  water  as  in  Orangeade)  and  one 
and  one-half  pints  water.  Let  cool  and  bottle  for  use. 

Apple  Water. — Cut  tart  apples  in  small  pieces,  rejecting  the 


Puree  Sieve. 


224 


DRINKS. 


cores,  and  put  over  the  fire  in  enough  boiling  water  to  cook  them, 
with  half  their  weight  in  sugar ; simmer  half  an  hour,  strain  through 
a jelly-bag,  cool  in  ice  and  drink  with  cracked  ice. 

Pine-apple  Water. — Peel  and  slice  a nice  large  pine-apple,  and 
pound  to  a pulp.  When  well  mashed  put  it  into  a basin,  pouring 
upon  it  one  pint  boiling  syrup  as  in  Orangeade,  add  the  strained 
juice  of  one  lemon,  stir  all  together  and  cover.  Let  stand  for  two 
hours  untouched,  then  filter  through  a fine  silk  sieve  and  add  a quart 
water. 

Ice-Cream  Soda  Water. — Put  sufficient  syrup  of  any  flavor 
liked  and  a large  tablespoon  ice-cream  into  a large  tumbler ; mix 
together  with  a spoon,  filf  up  with  bottled  soda  water  made  as  in 
Effervescing  Soda  and  quaff  at  once.  If  desirable,  pounded  or 
shaved  ice  may  also  be  added  to  the  contents  of  the  tumbler  before 
tile  soda  water  is  poured  in. 

Strawberry  Water. — Crush  with  one-half  pound  finely  sifted 
sugar  one  pound  ripe  red  strawberries,  and  put  them  with  one-half 
pint  cold  spring  water.  Filter  this  through  a sieve  into  a pan,  adding 
two  pints  water  and  the  juice  (strained)  of  one  lemon. 


EGGS. 


225 


# 


EG^G^S. 


There  is  only  one  opinion  as  to  the  nutritive  properties  of  egg?;, 
although  the  qualities  of  those  belonging  to  different  birds  vaiy 
somewhat,  and  among  all  nations  they  are  a favorite  article  of  food. 
They  are  pleasing  to  the  palate,  highly  nutritious,  and  easy  of  di- 
gestion, and  are  said  to  contain  all  that  is  required  for  the  constrU(-> 
tion  and  sustenance  of  the  human  body ; so  that  eggs,  even  at  a fancy 
price,  are  the  cheapest  of  food  and  should  form  part  of  the  dail  y 
bill  of  fare  of  every  family.  Either  eggs  or  cheese  or  the  tw  d 
combined  are  good  substitutes  for  meat,  and  in  combination  witd 
vegetables  are  capable  of  sustaining  strength  equivalent  to  a meat 
diet.  The  eggs  of  different  birds  vary  much  in  size  and  color.  Those 
;)f  the  ostrich  are  the  largest;  one  laid  in  the  menagerie  in  Paris 
weighed  two  pounds,  fourteen  ounces,  held  a pint,  and  was  six  inches 
ieep,  which  is  about  the  usual  size  of  those  brought  from  Africa. 
Travelers  describe  ostrich  eggs  as  of  an  agreeable  taste ; they  keep 
longer  than  hens’  eggs.  The  eggs  of  the  turkey  are  almost  as  mild 
as  those  of  the  hen ; the  egg  of  the  goose  is  large,  but  well-tasted. 
Ducks’  eggs  have  a rich  flavor ; the  albumen  is  slightly  transparent, 
or  bluish,  when  set  or  coagulated  by  boiling,  which  requires  less  time 
than  hens’  eggs.  Guinea-fowl  eggs  are  smaller  and  more  delicate 
than  those  of  the  hen.  Eggs  of  wild  fowl  are  generally  colored, 
often  spotted,  and  the  taste  usually  partakes  somewhat  of  the 
flavor  of  the  bird  they  belong  to.  Those  of  land  birds  that  are  eaten , 
-as  the  plover,  lapwing,  ruff,  etc.,  are  in  general  much  esteemed ; bu  / 
'ihose  of  sea-fowl  have,  more  or  less,  a strong  fishy  taste.  The  egg,'/ 
15 


EGGS. 


2>6 


of  the  turtle  are  very  numerous ; they  consist  of  yolk  only,  without 
shell,  and  are  delicious.  Those  of  the  common  hen  are  most 
esteemed  as  delicate  food,  particularly  when  “new-laid,”  and  those  of 
the  bantam  have  a peculiar,  delicate  flavor.  The  quality  of  eggs  de- 
pends much  upon  the  food  given  to  the  hen.  fterbs  and  grain  make 
a much  better  food  than  grain  only ; when  the  hens  eat  too  many 
insects  the  eggs  have  a disagreeable  flavor.  The  eggs  of  ducks  and 
geese  are  often  used  in  cooking,  but  are  of  too  coarse  a nature  to  be 
eaten  alone ; those  of  the  turkey  and  pea-hen  are  highly  esteemed 
for  some  purposes,  and  plovers’  eggs  are  considered  a rare  table  deli- 
cacy. Eggs  are  employed  in  a great  many  articles  of  cookery,  en- 
trees, and  entremets,  forming  an  essential  ingredient  in  pastry^ 
creams,  custards,  etc.,  but  are  considered  most  easily  digestible  wher 
little  subjected  to  the  art  of  cooking.  The  lightest  way  of  dressing. 
e>ggs  is  by  poaching.  The  fresher  they  are  the  better  and  moro 
^^'holesome,  though  new-laid*  eggs  require  to  be  cooked  longer  thar 
others.  Eggs  over  a week  old  Avill  do  to  fry  but  not  to  boil.  Do  not. 
mix  eggs  in  tin ; always  use  earthenware.  AVhen  eggs  are  wanted 
for  boiling  or  packing,  test  them  by  putting  in  water  in  a vessel  with, 
a smooth  level  bottom  ; the  fresh  eggs  will  sink  quickly  to  the  hot 
bom,  those  that  sink  slowly  are  suspicious,  and  those  that  float  an. 
Very  likely  to  be  bad ; or,  those  which  lie  on  the  side  are  good,  bui 
reject  those  which  stand  on  end  as  bad.  Still  another  test  is  to  loot 
t^.irough  each  egg  separately  toward  the  sun,  or  toward  a lamp  in  £ 
darkened  room  ; if  the  white  looks  clear,  and  the  yolk  can  be  easilj 
distinguished,  the  egg  is  good ; if  a dark  spot  appears  in  either  white 
/;r  yolk,  it  is  stale ; if  they  appear  heavy  and  dark,  or  if  they  gurgle 
when  shaken  gently,  they  are  “totally  depraved.”  The  best  and 
safest  plan  is  to  break  each  egg  in  a saucer  before  using  in  cooking, 
and  never  use  one  the  least  spoiled,  as  if  only  one  egg  is  slightly 
tainted  it  will  “ leaven  ” the  whole. 

MAKING  OMELETS. 

There  are  numerous  kinds  of  omelets,  and,  if  properly  made, 
they  generally  give  satisfaction.  As  a rule  an  omelet  is  a wholesome, 
inexpensive  dish,  but  yet  one  in  the  preparation  of  which  cooks  fre- 
ouentlv  fail,  owins  to  imiorance  of  detail.  The  ingredients  used 
mEv  be  varied  indefinitelv.  but  the  nrocess  is  alwavs  the  same.  Bea  t 


EGGS. 


227 


the  yolks  lightly  (twelve  beats  is  said  to  be  the  magic  number),  as 
too  much  beating  makes  them  thin  and  de- 
stroys the  appearance  of  the  omelet,  then  add 
the  milk,  the  salt,  pepper,  and  flour  if  any  is 
used,  and  lastly  the  whites  beaten  to  a stiff 
froth.  Some  claim  that  salt  mixed  with  the 
eggs  prevents  them  from  rising  and  gives  the  omelet  a flabby  ap- 
pearance, and  so  sprinkle  with  a little  salt  just  before  turning  out  on 
dish,  or  salt  at  table.  Have  the  frying  or  omelet  pan  hot  and  dry. 
The  best  way  to  insure  this  is  to  put  a small  quantity  of  fat  into  the 
pan,  let  it  simmer  a few  minutes,  then  pour  it  out,  wipe  the  pan  dr^ 
with  a towel,  and  put  in  a tablespoon  butter  or  American  Cooking 
Oil  and  pour  in  the  omelet,  which  should  at  once  begin  to  bubble 
and  rise  in  flakes ; care  should  betaken  that  the  butter  does  not  burn, 
fhereby  spoiling  the  color  of  the  omelet.  Slip  under  it  a thin, 
b:oad-bladed  knife,  and  every  now  and  then  raise  it  up  to  prevent 
barning,  but  never  turn,  as  this  flattens  and  toughens  it.  As  soon 
fii5  the  under  side  is  hard  enough  to  hold  together,  and  the  eggs  be- 
g'n  to  “ set,”  fold  over,  shake  the  skillet  so  as  to  entirely  free  the 
^>.melet,  carefully  slide  it  on  a hot  platter,  and  serve  at  .once.  It 
?hould  be  cooked  in  from  three  to  five  minutes.  Properly  made, 
E^’nelets  are  not  exactly  rolled  up,  but  there  is  a knack  to  be  learned 
D.’  shaping  in  the  pan  by  shaking  them  while  cooking  over  to  one 
5/de  of  pan,  the  side  farthest  away,  while  the  handle  is  uplifted ; 
loosen  the  edges  with  a knife  when  it  is  cooked  nearly  enough  to 
lhake;  this  is  especially  the  case  if  a large  pan  is  used,  so  that  the 
»ggs  will  cook  in  a small  space  upon  one  side  of  pan  instead  of 
ipreading  all  over  and  becoming  too  dry,  but  a small-sized  omelet 
pan,  six  or  eight  inches  in  diameter,  is  best,  so  that  the  mixture  when 
put  in. pan  may  be  at  least  half  an  inch  thick.  One  reason  of  ome- 
lets and  all  fried  eggs  sticking  to  the  frying-pan  is  allowing  the  pan 
to  get  too  hot.  They  seldom  stick  when  poured  into  a pan  that  is 
kept  not  too  hot  till  wanted.  The  pan  should  be  used  for  no  other 
purpose,  and  should  be  rubbed  smooth,  or  polished,  after  using.  To 
bake  an  omelet,  place  in  the  frying-pan  on  top  of  stove  until  it  be- 
gins to  “ set”  in  the  middle,  then  place  in  a rather  hot  oven  ; when 
slightly  browned,  fold  if  liked,  or  turn  a hot  dish  on  top  of  the  pan, 
npset  the  latter  with  a quick  motion,  and  so  dish  the  omelet  with 
’■-he  under  side  uppermost.  It  should  be  baked  in  from  to  ten 


Omelet  Pan. 


228 


EGGS. 


minutes.  When  a large  quantity  of  eggs  is  used,  instead  of  mak 
ing  into  one  large  omelet,  divide  and  make  several,  sending  each  to 
the  table  as  soon  as  done.  Three  or  four  eggs  make  a good-sized 
omelet,  either  fried  or  baked ; some  think  it  an  improvement  to  add 
a tablespoon  cream  to  every  two  eggs.  Ham,  chicken,  and  all  kinds 
of  meat  omelets  are  made  by  chopping  the  meat  fine  and  placing 
between  the  folds  before  dishing.  In  making  vegetable  (asparagus, 
tomato,  cauliflower,  etc.)  omelets,  cook  the  vegetables  as  if  for  the 
table;  place  them  in  the  center  of  the  omelet  just  before  folding,  or 
scald  a little  parsley,  pour  off  water,  chop  and  mix  with  omelet  just 
before  cooking ; old  cheese  grated  and  added  to  a plain  omelet 
is  also  a favorite  dish. 


Baked  Eggs. — Break, eight  eggs  carefully  into  a well  buttero.'f 
dish,  put  in  pepper  and  salt,  bits  of  butter  and  three  tablespoor  6 
cream — or  some  sprinkle  chopped  pickles,  such  as  gherkins,  cauL 
flower,  etc.,  over  them ; put  in  moderate  oven  and  bake  aboi  it 
twenty  minutes  or  until  whites  are  well  set ; serve  very  hot.  Or,  be;  t 
six  eggs  with  one  tablespoon  flour  and  six  of  sweet  milk ; melt  it 
piece  of  butter  in  the  frying-pan  and  when  hot  turn  the  whole  ii 
and  bake  in  very  hot  oven  ; to  be  served  as  soon  as  done.  A moi  i? 
elaborate  and  very  elegant  dish  is  the  f llowing : Pour  enoug  K 
chicken,  game  or  veal  gravy  into  a neat  baking  dish  to  cover  the  bo  • • 
tom  well  and  stir  with  it  a teaspoon  mixed  parsley  and  onion  fine]  j* 
chopped.  Set  the  dish  in  the  oven  until  the  gravy  begins  to  hiss  an  it 
bubble,  when  break  six  eggs  into  it  so  that  they  do  not  crowd  or  m 
another.  Strew  bread-crumbs  thickly  over  them,  pepper  and  salt  t,'i» 
taste  and  return  to  the  oven  three  minutes  longer,  then  pour  the  res  t 
of  the  gravy,  which  should  be  hot,  over  the  whole ; add  more  bread- 
crumbs as  fine  as  dust  and  bake  until  eggs  are  “ set.”  Send  to  table 
in  baking  dish.  Or  take  up  the  eggs  carefully  one  by  one  and  lay 
them  on  rounds  of  toasted  or  fried  bread  on  a hot  flat  dish  ; ‘add  a 
little  cream,  and  if  liked  some  very  finely  chopped  parsley  and  onion, 
to  the  gravy  left  in  the  baking  dish,  and  turn  it  into  a saucepan  ; boil 
up  once  quickly  and  pour  over  the  eggs.  Or  add  to  yolks  of  six  hard- 
boiled  eggs  one  pint  grated  bread-crumbs,  two  tablespoons  butter  and 
salt  and  pepper  to  taste  ; fill  the  halved  whites  with  this,  put  together 
in  whole  form  again  and  pack  closely  in  a baking  dish.  A little  dress- 
^ ing  will  be  left,  which  stir  into  a batter  with  one  egg  beaten  light,  half 
pint  bread-crumbs  and  pint  sweet  milk  ; pour  this  over  the  eggs  and 
bake  in  oven  until  a nice  brown.  Baked  Eggs  luith  Ham  is  another 
delicious  dish.  Chop  fine  a cup  cold  ham  and  mix  with  it  a cui 


EGGS. 


229 


> cead-crumbs  and  a high  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper ; put  into 
\\  attered  patty-pans,  set  in  dripping-pan  and  put  into  oven  to  heat ; 

soon  as  they  are  hot  take  the  pan  out  of  the  oven,  break  an  egg 
into  each  patt3^-pan  on  the  ham  and  bread  and  return  to  oven  to  just 
set  the  whites  of  the  eggs,  then  serve  the  baked  eggs  hot  in  the  little 
patty-pans,  setting  each  one  on  a tiny  plate. 

Boiled  Eggs. — In  boiling,  eggs  are  less  likely  to  crack  if 
dropped  in  water  not  quite  to  the  boiling  point.  They  will  cook  soft 
in  three  minutes,  hard  in  five,  very  hard  (to  serve  with  salads,  or  to 
slice  thin — seasoned  well  with  pepper  and  salt— and  put  between 
thin  slices  of  bread  and  butter)  in  ten  to  fifteen  minutes.  The  wire 
egg  stand  for  holding  eggs  while  being  boiled,  and  afterward  for  the 
/.able,  is  very  convenient.  By  using  this  all  risk 
('f  breaking  the  eggs  when  dropping  them  into  ( 1 

1.he  boiling  water  or  fishing  them  out  is  avoided.  \ / 

"The  eggs  are  all  put  in  and  all  removed  at  the  \/ 

ti/ime  time,  insuring  uniformity  in  cooking.  M 

’’^^hen  a part  are  to  be  cooked  longer  than  the  § 

Pist  they  can  be  put  in  first,  and  those  cooked 
Irss,  afterwards,  and  all  removed  together. 
cool  the  shells  the  stand  with  the  eggs  can  be 
^Ilipped  for  an  instant  in  cold  water.  These 
Siands  are  made  in  several  sizes,  holding  from  wh^Egg  stand^ 
f *ur  to  twelve  eggs.  There  is  an  objection  to  the  ordinary  way  of 
I'  Diling  eggs  not  generally  understood.  The  white,  under  three  min- 
V tes’  rapid  cooking,  is  toughened  and  becomes  indigestible,  and  yet 
tile  yolk  is  left  uncooked.  To  be  wholesome,  eggs  should  be  cooked 
renly  to  the  center,  and  this  result  is  best  reached  by  putting  the 
<fggs  into  a dish  having  a tight  cover  ( a tin  pail  will  do)  and  pour- 
! -ig  boiling  water  over  them  in  the  proportion  of  two  quarts  to  a 
dozen  eggs ; cover  and  set  away  from  the  stove ; after  cooking  about 
seven  minutes,  remove  cover,  turn  the  eggs,  replace  cover,  and  in  six 
or  seven  minutes  they  will  be  done,  if  only  two  or  three  eggs ; if 
more,  in  from  ten  to  twenty  minutes.  The  heat  of  the  water  cooks  the 
eggs  slowly  to  a jelly-like  consistency  and  leaves  the  yolk  harder 
than  the  white.  The  egg  thus  cooked  is  very  nice  and  rich.  Another 
method  of  cooking  is  to  put  the  eggs  on  in  cold  water  and  let  it  grad- 
ually come  to  a boil,  which  will  bo  in  about  ten  minutes,  when  they 
are  immediately  taken  out  and  served.  The  inside,  white  and  yolk, 
will  then  be  of  "the  consistency  of  custard.  Serve  in  egg  stand,  or  in 
a dish  enfolded  in  a warm  napkin,  placing  an  egg  glass  at  each 
plate ; or  if  well  done,  shell  and  halve  quickly  and  serve  on  hot  plate 
with  a hot  French  mustard  poured  round  them,  dipping  a spoonful 
on  each.  Drop  eggs  a moment  into  cold  water  and  they  will  shell 
more  easily.  If  intended  for  salad  leave  them  in  the  cold  water  for 
»ome  time  for  the  ^mlks  to  harden. 


'230 


EGGS. 


Breaded  Eggs, — Boil  hard  and  cut  in  round  thick  slices,  season 
with  pepper  and  salt  and  dip  each  in  beaten  raw  egg,  then  in  fine 
bread-crumbs,  or  powdered  cracker  crumbs,  and  fry  in  fat  like 
doughnuts.  Drain  off  every  drop  of  grease  and  serve  hot.  A niee 
way  of  serving  is  to  spread  triangles  of  fried  bread  with  anchovy 
paste,  lay  them  in  a hot  platter  and  arrange  the  sliced  egg  on  these  ; 
pour  over  all  a cup  drawn  butter  into  which  a raw  egg  has  been 
stirred. 

Broiled  Eggs. — Toast  pieces  of  bread  on  both  sides,  butter,  and 
break  six  eggs  carefully  upon  them,  sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper, 
and  pass  a clean  red  hot  shovel  or  salamander  over  them  until  they 
are  well  set.  Squeeze  t e juice  of  an  orange  over  them,  strew  with 
a little  grated  nutmeg  and  serve  as  quickly  as  possible.  Dip  the 
toast  into  warmed  cream  and  it  is  much  more  delicious. 

Buttered  Eggs. — Break  four  eggs  into  a bowl  and  beat  well ; pu ' 
two  tablespoons  butter  into  another  bowl,  which  place  in  boilin^^ 
water  and  stir  till  butter  melts ; pour  that  and  the  eggs  into  a lined 
saucepan,  hold  over  a gent  .e  fire  and  as  the  mixture  begins  to  warrii 
pour  it  two  or  three  times  into  the  bowl  and  back  again,  that  the 
two  ingredients  may  be  we  incorporated.  Keep  stirring  the  eggs 
and  butter  one  way  until  they  are  hot,  without  holding.,  and  serve  o a 
hot  buttered  toast.  If  the  mixture  is  allowed  to  boil  it  will  curdl  p 
and  so  be  entirely  spoiled. 

C rried  Egis. — Slice  two  onions  very  thin  and  fry  in  butter  1 p 
a nice  brown,  add  a tablespoon  curry  powder  and  one  pint  good 
broth  or  stock,  stew  til.  onions  are  quite  tender,  add  a cup  cream 
thickened  with  arrowroot  or  rice  flour,  simmer  a few  moments,  theii 
add  eight  or  +en  hard-boiled  eggs,  cut  in  slices,  and  heat  them  well, 
but  do  not  boil.  If  a white  instead  of  a brown  dish  is  wished  the 
onions  must  be  stewed  in  butter,  and  the  sauce  made  of  yeal  broth 
mixed  with  a little  milk  and  flour.  Pepper  and  salt  to  taste.  Serve 
hot.  Or  mix  two  teaspoons  curry  powder  into  a paste  with  a little 
gravy  from  one  and  one-half  pints,  and  rub  it,  adding  the  rest  of 
gravy  until  it  is  completely  incorporated ; let  it  then  simmer  gently 
until  it  is  reduced  to  little  more  than  a half  pint ; thicken,  it  with  a 
little  flour  and  butter,  boil  six  eggs  hard,  cut  them  into  slices,  yolk 
and  white  together,  warm  up  for  five  minutes,  and  serve  very  hot. 
Another  excellent  recipe  : Cut  each  egg  into  four  slices ; put  two 
tablespoons  butter  or  olive  oil  into  a frying-pan,  and  when  well 
heated  throw  into  it  a large  sliced  onion  and  apple ; fry  briskly  till 
well  browned  ; add  a cup  either  milk,  cream,  water  or  stock  in  which 
has  been  mixed  a dessert-spoon  strong  curry-powder ; simmer  about 
ten  minutes  and  thieken  with  the  beaten  yolk  of  an  egg.  Arrange 
the  sliced  eggs  in  a hot  dish,  pour  the  curry  over  them,  or  just  stew 
them  in  it  for  a few  minutes.  Some  epicures  have  the  yolks  only  of 


EGGS. 


2.U 


the  eggs  curried  and  the  whites  minced  fine  to  form  a garnish. 
Tomatoes,  chopped,  savory  herbs,  celery,  green  peas,  sliced  cucum- 
bers, button  mushrooms,  fresh  or  pickled,  orange  or  lemon  juice, 
young  capsicums,  pibkles  of  any  kind,  shred  lemon  rind,  shallot  or 
garlic  in  small  quantity,  or  indeed  almost  any  sort  of  vegetable  may 
be  employed  in  the  curry.  Fillets  of  anchovies  may  be  used  as  a 
decoration  round  the  rim  of  the  dish,  but  observe  that  only  cream 
or  yolk  of  egg  should  rightly  be  made  use  of  for  thickening  a curry. 


Deviled  Eggs. — Take  a sufficient  number  of  the  hard-boiled 
yolks  of  eggs,  dip  them  first  into  some  beaten  egg,  then  dip  them 
into  oil  and  roll  them  in  cayenne  pepper  and  salt ' make  a little  tray  by 
twisting  up  the  corners  of  half  a sheet  of  oiled  writing  paper,  place 
the  eggs  in  it,  put  it  upon  a gridiron  over  a clear  fire  and  shake  it 
about  till  the  eggs  are  quite  hot.  Serve  with  equal  quantities  of  olive 
oil  and  chetney  sauce  made  very  hot.  In  default  of  chetney  sauce. 
Chili  vinegar  may  be  employed.  Or  dip  the  hard-boiled  yolks  intj 
beaten  egg  well  seasoned  with  pepper  and  salt,  then  into  bread  * 
crumbs,  and  drop  into  hot  lard  until  browned  over. 


Forcemeat  Eggs. — Boil  six  eggs  hard,  and  while  boiling  make  v 
forcemeat  by  mixing  a cup  minced  chicken,  veal,  ham  or  tongue  wil  y 
a half  cup  bread-crumbs,  two  teaspoons  mixed  parsley,  onion,  sun  / 
mer  savory  or  sweet  marjoram  chopped  fine,  and  one  raw  eggbeate  /» 
light.  Take  shells  of  eggs  on  carefully,  divide  in  halves,  and  cut  t, 
piece  of  the  white  off  at  each  end  that  they  may  stand  firmly  whe/i 
dished,  and  coat  them  thickly  with  the  forcemeat.  Set  on  upp<  i 
grate  of  very  hot  oven  to  brown,  and  serve  piled  neatly  on  hot  disl  / 
Pour  a cup  of  hot,  rich  gravy  over  them  into  which  a little  lemo  j 
juice  has  been  squeezed,  and  serve.  Or  leave  eggs  whole,  cover  wit^i 
forcemeat,  put  in  a frying-basket  and  set  into  boiling  fat  for  tw/) 
minutes.  Nice  for  lunch,  tea  or  picnics. 


French  Eggs. — Boil  hard,  remove  shells,  roll  in  beaten  egg,  then 
in  cracker  crumbs  and  fry  in  butter  until  brown.  Pour  over  them  i, 
gravy  made  in  pan  of  butter,  crumbs  and  cream.  An  excellent  sid€ 
dish  for  dinner. 


Fricasseed  Eggs. — Put  a half  pound  stale  bread  and  a pint  milk 
or  good  meat  broth  seasoned  with  pepper  and  salt  in  saucepan  and 
boil  three  minutes,  mash  well  and  mix  and  boil  until  a thin  paste  is 
made,  stirring  constantly;  mix  with  this  six  or  eight  hard-boiled 

eggs,  cut  in  slices  or  dice,  seasoned  with 
pepper  and  salt,  stir  over  the  fire  five  minutes 
and  serve  hot.  Or  put  the  broth  on  the  fire 
in  saucepan  with  the  seasoning,  adding  als'o 
parsley  and  a suspicion  of  onion,  and  let 
Saucepan.  comc  to  a boil.  Rub  the  slices  of  egg  with 

melted  butter,  then  roll  them  in  flour.  Lay  them  gently  in  the  gravj 


EGGS. 


^md  let  this  become  smoking  hot  upon  the  side  of  the  range,  but  do 
yiot  let  it  actually  boil  lest  the  eggs  should  break.  They  should  lie 
ihus  in  the  gravy  for  at  least  five  minutes.  Have  ready  upon  a plat- 
ter small  slices  of  nicely  fried  bread,  lay  the  sliced  eggs  evenly 
upon  this,  pour  the  gravy  over  all  and  serve  hob 

Fried  Eggs. — After  frying  ham  drop  the  eggs  one  by  one  in  the 
hot  fat  and  dip  it  over  them  until  the  white  is  set,  or  cook  from  three 
to  five  minutes,  as  liked.  They  may  be  served  alone  or  on  the  ham 
dusted  over  with  pepper  and  salt,  or  they  may  be  fried  in  other  fat 
and  served  with  broiled  ham,  or  on  toast  sprinkled  with  catsup  or  a 
sauce  of  any  kind.  Fried  eggs  may  also  be  served  on  slices  of 
Bologna  sausage  tossed  over  the  fire  in  hot  butter  or  salad  oil. 
Place  an  egg  on  each  piece  of  sausage,  arrange  among  them  some 
parsley  leaves  fried  crisp,  and  serve  as  hot  as  possible.  French  cooks 
pour  over  fried  eggs  a hot  mixture 
of  chopped  onions  and  bread-crumbs, 
little  water  and  a few  drops  vinegar 
reasoned  with  salt.  The  fried  egg 
pan  is  very  nice  where  it  is  desired 
to  retain  the  shape  of  the  egg.  A 
i.'ice  way  of  frying  eggs  is  to  have  as 
in  cups  or  saucers,  and  heat  over  the  fire  a frying-pan  two-thirds 
/all  of  fat  until  it  smokes.  Put  the  eggs  into  the  smoking  hot  fat 
»lnd  fry  for  two  minutes,  putting  in  at  once  only  as  many  eggs  as 
will  float ; as  soon  as  they  are  fried  take  out  of  fat  with  skimmer 
a,nd  lay  on  slices  of  broiled  ham  or  bacon  cooked  while  the  eggs  are 
keing  fried.  Serve  the  dish  very  hot. 

Holland  Eggs. — Cook  seven  eggs  hard  and  cut  in  long  slices ; 
wash  and  clean  a large  herring,  cut  in  small  pieces ; take  the  roe 
ifom  a carp  or  other  fish  and  fry  in  butter ; butter  a baking  dish,  put 
in  the  boiled  eggs  and  pour  over  them  five  tablespoons  cream ; on 
each  egg  put  a piece  of  herring  and  some  of  the  roe,  and  thus  fill  up 
the  dish  with  alternate  layers ; mix  some  chopped  parsley  with  a 
little  more  cream  and  pour  all  over  the  eggs,  and  bake. 

Italian  Eggs. — Beat  six  eggs,  add  two  ounces  grated  Gruyere 
cheese,  and  about  half  tablespoon  butter.  Put  all  together  on  the 
fire  until  quite  thick,  take  off  and  season  to  taste.  A favorite  dish 
in  Switzerland. 

Wugget  Eggs. — Break  the  shells  of  a dozen  eggs,  separate  yolks 
from  whites  and  keep  each  yolk  by  itself ; beat  whites  to  a froth  and 
add  a little  salt,  pepper  and  thick  cream ; pour  this  into  a well  but- 
tered deep  dish  and  arrange  the  yolks  upon  the  top  ; put  the  dish 
into  a gentle  oven  and  when  set  serve  them  hot.  The  whites  of  the 
eggs  should  have  been  beaten  for  at  least  a quarter  of  an  hour. 


Pried  Egg  Pan. 


many  as  are  required  broken 


EGGS. 


23B 


Onion  Eggs. — Boil  twelve  eggs  hard  and  slice  ten,  whites  and 
J oiks  together ; fry  six  sliced  onions  in  butter,  drain,  lay  on  a dish, 
^.'nd  put  the  sliced  eggs  over  them  ; cover  and  keep  hot  v/biie  this 
sauce  is  made  : Grate  yolks  of  the  two  remaining  eggs  and  mix  with 
little  cream,  grated  nutmeg  and  pepper,  boil  up  once  and  pour  over 
eggs  and  onions.  Serve  very  hot.  A nice  dish  for  those  who  like 
onions. 

Pickled  Eggs. — Pint  strong  vinegar,  half  pint  cold  water,  tea- 
spoon each  cinnamon,  allspice  and  mace  ; boil  eggs  till  very  hard, 
and  take  otf  the  shell ; put  spices,  tied  in  a white  muslin  bag,  in  cold 
water,  boil,  and  if  water  wastes  away  add  enough  so  as  to  leave  a 
half  pint  when  done ; add  vinegar,  and  pour  over  eggs,  put  in  as 
many  eggs  as  mixture  will  cover,  and  when  they  are  used,  the  same  will 
do  for  another  lot.  If  liked,  ginger  and  cloves  may  be  used  instead 
u f the  cinnamon  and  mace,  and  some  add  mustard.  Or  after  boiling 
( hard)  and  removing  shell,  place  in  jar  of  beet  pickles  and  the  white 
H ill  become  red ; cut  in  two  in  serving.  Or,  for  sixteen  eggs,  take 
i ne  quart  vinegar,  one-half  ounce  each  black  pepper,  Jamaica  pep- 
j er  and  ginger ; boil  eggs  twelve  minutes,  dip  in  cold  water  and  take 
('  if  shell ; put  vinegar  with  pepper  and  ginger  into  a saucepan  and 
g’mmer  ten  minutes;  place  eggs  in  a jar,  pour  over  the  seasoned 
t inegar  boiling  hot,  and  when  cold  cover  closely  to  exclude  the  air ; 
f sady  for  use  in  a month. 

Plovers'  Eggs. — Boil  from  ten  to  fifteen  minutes,  and  they  are 
flood  either  hot  or  cold.  Serve  in  napkin.  Esteemed  a great  deli- 
■^acy. 

Poached  Eggs. — Break  the  eggs  into  the  egg  poacher  or  drop 
i.ne  at  a time  in  salted  water,  to  which  a small  lump  of  butter  may 
be  added,  or  a little  lemon  juice,  or  vinegar,  using  a teaspoon  to  a ^ 
pint  water ; some  say  drop  in  when  simmering,  others  when  boiling, 
not  letting  it  boil  again  after  putting  in  the  eggs ; others  have  water 
boiling,  salt,  then  place  it  where  it  will  stop  boiling,  drop  in  eggs, 
and  let  simmer  gently  till  done.  It  is  even  said  they  will  be  more 
tender  if  put  on  in  cold  water  and  left  until  the  water  comes  to  a 
boil.  Always  take  great  care  in  keeping  the  yolk  whole.  Use  an 
egg  poacher  if  possible.  Break  the  egg  carefully  into  the  little  cups 
and  place  them  on  the  stand.  Dip  the  stand  into  well-salted  water, 
which  has  been  brought  to  simmering  point.  When  done  each  cup 
in  shape  of  a shell  is  taken  off  the  stand  and  carefully  tipped  over  a 
piece  of  buttered  toast,  leaving  the  egg  in  the  pretty  form  of  the  cup. 
If  one  has  not  a poacher,  muffin  rings  may  be  placed  in  the  water, 
or  the  cup  in  which  the  egg  is  broken  may  be  turned  over  it,  after 
it  is  dropped  in  the  water ; and  some  cook  the  eggs  in  cups  set  in 


234 


EGGS. 


the  hot  water ; others  stir  with  a spoon  and  drop  in  the  eddy  thus 
made,  stirring  till  egg  is  cooked.  The  yolk 
should  only  be  just  so  much  done  as  to  fix  it- 
self firmly  in  the  center  of  the  white ; if  the 
yolk  is  allowed  to  harden  the  egg  is  quite 
spoiled;  if  the  yolks  are  liked  whitened  or 
filmed  over,  cover  the  pan  in  which  the  eggs 
are  poached,  or  dip  the  hot  water  on  them  with  a spoon,  as  the 
is  dipped  over  fried  eggs.  Take  up  with  a perforated  skimmer,  when 
not  cooked  in  egg  poacher  or  cups.  To  serve  them,  toast  squares 
of  bread  three-quarters  of  an  inch  thick,  moisten  with  a little  water, 
put  a very  little  melted  butter  upon  each  slice,  place  on  a heated 
platter,  lay  an  egg  on  each  square,  sprinkle  with  pepper  and  salt, 
and  if  liked,  a few  drops  vinegar  or  essence  of  anchovy.  Or  draivi 
nicely  and  serve  in  individual  dishes  alone  or  over  broiled  ham  cj 
boiled  spinach.  Some  put  a bit  of  butter  on  each  egg.  Serve  with 
Worcester  sauce  if  desired;  or  pour  hot  cream  over  them,  seasoned 
with  butter,  pepper  and  salt.  Some  poach  eggs  in  milk,  serving 
them  in  sauce  dishes  with  some  of  the  milk,  and  season- 
ing with  pepper  and  salt.  For  Egg  Yol  Au  Vents^  fry  rounds  of 
bread  from  which  an  inner  round  has  been  cut,  but  not  quit^ 
through,  trim  the  poached  eggs  to  fit  the  cavities  thus  made,  and 
pour  over  them  a cup  of  hot  gravy  or  chicken  broth.  A very  hand  - 
some dish  is  made  by  trimming  and  serving  poached  eggs  aroum; 
slices  of  fried  beets,  squeezing  a little  lemon  juice  over.  For  Poached 
Eggs  with  Mushrooms^  mince  some  cold  chicken  and  stir  over 
the  fire  with  a beaten  egg  and  pepper  and  salt,  place  this  first  in  th.-j 
rounds  of  bread,  and  on  top  of  this  the  poached  eggs,  carefully 
trimmed,  then  pour  over  them  some  sliced  mushrooms  that  hav.? 
been  cooked  in  highly  seasoned  veal  or  poultry  gravy.  Spanisii 
Eggs  are  poached  eggs  served  on  boiled  rice,  flavored  with  cinnamon , 
and  seasoned  with  a little  butter  and  salt. 

Ringed  Eggs. — Roughly  chop  yolks  of  half-dozen  hard-boilect 
eggs ; cut  whites  into  rings ; put  yolks  into  middle  of  dish,  with 
whites  round  them ; lightly  sift  some  bread-crumbs  over,  sprinkle 
essence  of  anchovy  upon  the  top  and  add  a dessert-spoon  salad  oil 
and  a little  red  pepper,  place  in  an  oven  for  five  minutes  and 
serve. 

Scalloped  ^^5.— Moisten  bread-crumbs  with  milk  or  meat  broth 
and  season  with  salt  and  pepper ; place  a layer  of  this  in  a well-buttered 
dish ; slice  some  hard-boiled  eggs,  and  dip  each  slice  in  a thick  drawn- 
butter  sauce  to  which  a well-beaten  egg  has  been  added ; put  a layer 
of  them  upon  the  crumbs,  then  a slight  layer  of  minced  ham,  veal  or 
chicken,  then  bread,  etc.,  finishing  with  dry.  sifted  bread-crumbs ; 


EGGS. 


235 


bake  until  well  heated ; or,  put  upon  the  layer  of  bread-crumbs  a 
layer  of  minced  ham,  seasoned  with  onion  and  parsley;  set  in  oven, 
closely  covered,  until  smoking  hot.  Have  four  eggs  stiffly  beaten, 
season  with  pepper  and  salt,  add  two  tablespoons  cream  or  one  of 
melted  butter,  and  pour  this  evenly  upon  the  layer  of  ham.  Put 
the  dish  back  into  the  oven  uncovered  and  bake  until  the  egg  is  set. 
Individual  Scallops  are  made  of  lightly  minced  hard-boiled 
eggs,  whites  and  yolks  together,  or  yolks  only.  Butter 
scallop  shells,  or  little  tins  made  to  resemble  them  in 
shape,  strew  in  a portion  of  the  egg,  then  sprinkle 
ouawup.  some  seasoned  grated  toast  over  the  egg,  and  so  on  al- 
ternately until  shells  are  filled ; sprinkle  a little  Chili  vinegar  on  top, 
lay  a piece  of  butter  upon  each,  and  place  them  in  oven  until 
sufficiently  done.  Grated  Parmesan  cheese,  essence  of  shrimps  or 
anchovies,  chetney  sauce,  catsup,  or  truffles,  may  be  added  to  give 
them  the  flavor  liked. 

Scramhled  Eggs. — Warm  sweet  milk  in  a deep  earthen  pie 
plate,  allowing  two  tablespoons  to  each  egg  (or  less,  with  a large 
number  of  eggs),  add  a bit  of  butter  size  of  walnut,  or  omit  the  but- 
ter and  use  cream  in  above  proportion  or  only  half  as  much,  and  r 
little  salt  and  pepper.  When  nearly  to  boiling  point  drop  in  the 
eggs,  broken  one  at  a time  in  a saucer ; with  a spoon  or  thin-bladerl 
knife  gently  cut  the  eggs,  and  scrape  the  mixture  up  from  the  bov 
tom  of  the  plate  as  it  cooks.  If  it  begins  to  cook  dry  and  fast  at 
the  bottom,  move  the  dish  back  instantly,  shifting  it  over  the  hea  t 
as  needed,  or  even  raising  it,  if  cooking  too  fast,  for  success  depends 
wholly  on  cooking  gently  and  evenly,  proportions  being  of  second- 
ary importance.  Take  from  stove  before  it  has  quite  all  thickened., 
and  continue  turning  it  up  from  bottom  of  dish  a moment  longer. 
If  served  in  another  dish  (it  keeps  warmer  served  in  same)  have  it 
well  heated.  The  mixture  should  be  in  large  flakes  of  mingled  white 
and  yellow,  and  as  delicate  as  baked  custard.  Or  for  plain  scrambled 
eggs  omit  the  milk  ; some  beat  eggs  before  scrambling,  just  enough 
to  mix  whites  and  yolks,  and  minced  ham  is  sometimes  added. 
Scrambled  upon  a plate  that  has  been  heated  very,  very  hot  and 
rubbed  with  a bit  of  butter,  they  are  relished  by  those  who  like  eggs 
but  little  cooked.  Serve  scrambled  eggs  hot  over  slices  of  moist 
buttered  toast,  or  fried  bread  spread  with  anchovy  paste,  if  liked, 
and  the  dish  is  called  Mumbled  Eggs.  Or  beat  up  the  eggs  with 
pepper,  salt  and  a little  chopped  thyme ; rub  the  sauce-pan  or  bak- 
ing dish  with  onions  before  putting  in  the  eggs,  cook  as  above  and 
send  to  table  as  Savory  Eggs.  A great  variety  of  dishes  may  be  made 
by  adding  to  the  beaten  eggs  (with  two  tablespoons  milk  to  each  egg 
if  liked),  any  of  the  following  ; For  savory  dishes — chopped  tongue, 
oysters,  shrimps  or  prawns,  preserved  sardines,  dried  salmon,  ancho- 
vies, herbs,  truffles,  pickles,  potted  meats,  sausages,  shred  lemon-pee]^ 


236 


EGGS. 


onions,  artichokes,  shallots,  asparagus  tops,  green  peas, beets, mush- 
rooms, cheese,  bacon,  lobster  spawn,  dried  beef  cut  fine,  cold  meat, 
r ice,  croutons,  cold  macaroni,  or  any  cold  vegetables ; for  sweet  mixed 
eggs  the  following  may  be  employed  : blanched  almonds,  angelica, 
blanched  chestnuts,  conserves  of  any  kind,  stoned  raisins,  candied 
orange,  citron,  or  lemon  peel,  blackberries  and  other  fresh  fruits,  etc. 

Shirred  Eggs. — Place  small  earthen  dishes,  each  large  enough 
to  hold  an  egg,  in  a dripping-pan  with  a little  hot  water ; put  in  each 
a bit  of  butter  and  a raw  egg,  taking  care  not  to  break  the  yolk,  dust 
a little  salt  and  pepper  over  them,  set  in  hot  oven  and  just  harden 
the  whites ; serve  one  dish  to  each  person-,  sending  to  table  set  upon 
pretty  plates.  If  liked  each  egg  may  be  sprinkled  with  bread-crumbs 
and  browned  with  hot  salamander  before  sending  to  table.  Two 
eggs  are  often  served  in  each  dish,  and  a nice  flavor  is  given  by 
sprinkling  a little  finely  chopped  ham  and  parsley  in  the  dishes  be- 
fore putting  in  the  eggs.  Any  small  saucers  will  do  for  this  purpose, 
t/iough  the  little  scalloped  shells  are  much  prettier.  Some  prefer 
to  beat  the  eggs  before  baking. 

Shredded  Egg  a. — Boil  six  eggs  hard  and  cut  the  whites  in  thin 
S' trips  or  shreds ; make  a pint  of  white  sauce,  and  toast  six  slices 
of  bread ; put  a layer  of  sauce  on  each,  then  part  of  the  white  shreds, 
and  rub  part  of  the  yolks  through  a sieve  over  all ; repeat  this  and 
finish  with  a third  layer  of  sauce.  Place  in  the  oven  about  three 
minutes  ; garnish  with  parsley,  and  serve.  It  is  said  that  when  hard- 
1/  oiled  eggs  are  wanted  for  this  or  any  other  purpose,  boiling  them 
an  hour  or  more  renders  them  as  easily  digested  as  soft-boiled  eggs. 

StuiFed  Eggs. — Boil  one  dozen  fresn  eggs  until  well  done,  pour 
ofif  hot  water  and  cover  with  cold;  then  peel  and  cut  the  eggs  in 
halves,  either  lengthwise  or  crosswise,  take  out  the  yolks  and  mash 
ii'iem  with  a piece  of  butter  size  of  an  egg,  one  cup  finely  minced 
Ifoiled  ham,  and  a dressing  of  one  teaspoon  each  black  pepper  and 
salt,  a dessert-spoon  each  mustard  and  celery  seed,  tablespoon  sugar, 
and  three  tablespoons  vinegar.  Mix  all  well  together  and  fill  the  halved 
whites  with  the  mixture,  press  them  together  and  serve  on  a glass 
dish  garnished  with  fresh  ten- 
der lettuce,  or  serve  in  halves 
with  the  false  yolks  well  round- 
ed up.  If  wanted  for  picnics 
wrap  in  tissue  paper  to  pre- 
serve their  form.  Spread  the 

mixture  left  over  between  thin  stuped  Eggs, 

slices  of  buttered  bread,  and  very  i\\qq  Salad  Sandwiches 
or  put  the  dressing  left  over  on  a plate,  place  the  halved  eggs  on 
it  ends  downward  and  set  in  the  oven  to  brown  before  serving. 


EGGS. 


237 


Another  nice  dish  is  Creamed  Eggs^  made  as  follows : Prepare 
eggs  as  above  and  mash  the  yolks  well  with  a little  butter,  onion 
juice  and  salt,  fill  the  halved  whites  with  this,  rounding  up,  and 
place  in  a baking  dish;  make  a rich  cream  gravy  of  milk,  cream  and 
butter,  seasoned  with  white  pepper,  salt  and  a small  pinch  sugar, 
and  pour  into  the  dish,  leaving  a narrow  rim  of  the  whites  and  the 
yolks  of  eggs  showing  above ; sprinkle  grated  cheese  on  the  gravy, 
and  put  in  the  oven  to  brown.  Serve  in  baking  dish.  Delicious. 

Eggs  a la  Maitre  d'’ Hotel. — Cut  five  hard-boiled  eggs  in  quar- 
ters, lengthwise,  and  place  in  dish ; pour  over  them  a hot  gravy 
made  of  cream  and  milk  with  a little  butter,  a seasoning  of  white 
pepper  and  salt,  a small  pinch  sugar,  and  a thickening  of  flour. 
Serve  hot.  A tablespoon  chopped  parsley  and  juice  of  half  a lemon 
may  be  added  to  gravy  if  liked.  Very  nice. 

Egg  Balls. — Pound  the  yolks  of  eight  hard-boiled  eggs  in  a 
mortar  and  moisten  with  beaten  yolks  of  three  raw  eggs,  little  sah , 
pepper,  powdered  mace  or  nutmeg.  Make  into  round  balk/, 
a?ad  put  through  soup  about  two  minutes  before  serving,  or  poach 
t)iem  and  serve  on  buttered  toast  or  with  any  sauce  preferred.  Som  e 
add  a little  flour  to  the  paste  before  making  into  balls. 

Egg  Charlotte. — Cut  thin  slices  of  stale  bread  divested  of  crusv, 
dip  into  warmed  butter,  and  line  a small  mold ; take  enough  hard- 
boiled  yolks  of  eggs  for  the  mold  ; chop  and  add  to  them  half  the;  r 
quantity  of  bread-crumbs  soaked  in  cream,  season  with  pepper,  ad  il 
a couple  of  shred  shallots  and  place  these  ingredients  in  the  mold  ; 
beat  up  a raw  egg  with  a tablespoon  cream  and  add ; lay  upon  the 
top  some  thin  slices  of  bread  dipped  into  liquid  butter  and  put : t 
into  a tolerably  hot  oven  to  get  nicely  browned ; turn  it  out  into  a, 
dish  to  serve.  For  a Sweet  Charlotte.,  sugar,  orange-flower  or  rose- 
water, and  a few  blanched  almonds,  some  shred  lemon-peel,  etc 
should  be  employed  instead  of  the  shallot  and  savory  seasoning. 

Egg  Eritters. — Cut  hard-boiled  eggs  in  two,  remove  yolks, 
and  mix  with  them  chopped  cold  chicken,  lamb,  veal  or  sardines, 
a little  minced  onion  or  parsley  and  a few  soaked  bread-crumbs ; 
season,  and  moisten  with  gravy  or  the  uncooked  yolk  of  an  egg  or 
cream,  fill  in  the  cavities  level,  put  the  two  halves  together,  roll  in 
beaten  egg  and  bread-crumbs,  put  in  wire  egg-basket,  and  dip  in 
boiling  lard ; when  slightly  brown,  serve  with  celery,  tomato  sauce, 
or  make  a sauce  from  lemon  juice,  sardines,  parsley,  and  sliced 
onion,  stewed  in  vegetable  broth,  and  a good  spoonful  cream ; let 
all  cook  together  and  when  well  reduced  pour  over  the  dished  eggs 
and  serve  hot ; or  for  six  eggs  make  a stuffing  of  the  yolks,  two  tea- 
spoons butter,  one  of  cream,  two  or  three  drops  onion  juice  and  salt, 
and  pepper  to  taste.  Fill  eggs  and  fry  as  above. 


238 


EGGg.  • 


Egg  Gems. — Mix  together  any  kind  of  cold  meat  (chopped 
f?ne),  with  an  equal  quantity  of  bread-crumbs ; add  pepper,  salt,  a 
bit  of  butter  and  a little  milk  ; fill  buttered  gem-pans  with  the  mix- 
ture, then  carefully  break  an  egg  on  the  top  of  each ; season  with 
pepper  and  salt,  and  sprinkle  some  very  fine  cracker  crumbs  on  top ; 
bake  eight  minutes ; a little  grated  cheese  may  be  added  to  the 
cracker,  if  desired. 

Egg  Mayonnaise. — Beat  four  eggs  well  with  a tablespoon  vin- 
egar, some  pepper  and  salt,  and  by  degrees  add  oil  enough  to  give  it 
the  proper  consistency,  so  that  it  forms  a smooth  cream.  Slice 
yolks  of  hard-boiled  eggs,  mince  the  whites,  pour  the  mayonnaise 
sauce  over  the  yolks,  which  arrange  in  a dish,  and  place  the  whites 
in  tufts  round  the  margin,  together  with  branches  of  chervil,  tarra- 
gon, watercress,  endive,  lettuce,  etc.,  or  sliced  pickled  cucumbers. 

Egg  Puree. — Mash  yolks  of  six  hard-boiled  eggs  together  with 
Q^ie  ounce  butter,  two  tablespoons  gravy  or  milk,  and  seasoning  to 
tv.ste ; place  in  buttered  dish,  stick  small  pieces  boned  anchovy  on 
top,  and  pour  over  it  the  beaten  yolk  of  a raw  egg ; bake  until  quite 
}mt,  and  serve  immediately. 

JtLgg  Sandwiches. — Cut  hard-boiled  eggs  into  moderately  thin 
Slices,  and  lay  them  between  slices  of  bread  and  butter  cut  as  thin 
as  possible;  season  with  pepper,  salt,  and  nutmeg.  For  picnic  par- 
ses, or  when  one  is  travelling,  these  sandwiches  are  far  preferable 
U)  hard-boiled  eggs  ati  naUirel. 

Egg  Soup. — Beat  yolks  of  four  eggs  with  a teaspoon  butter ; 
season  well  to  taste,  and,  while  stirring,  pour  in  a pint  and  a half 
boiling-hot  stock ; strain  into  a saucepan,  put  over  the  fire,  keep 
stirring  until  it  is  very  nearly  boiling,  and  send  to  table  in  a small 
/tureen.  For  a maigre  soup,  water  takes  the  place  of  the  stock, 
ilavoring  with  either  essence  of  anchovy  or  shrimp.  Or  take  a quart 
good,  clear,  cold  soup  ; beat  yolks  of  twelve  eggs  and  whites  of  four, 
strain  into  the  soup  and  mix  well  together ; put  into  a tureen,  well 
buttered,  and  let  it  stand  over  a pot  of  boiling  water,  or  put  it  into 
a gentle  oven  until  properly  set.  Strew  over  it  a few  chopped 
pickled  peppers  (red  or  green),  and  serve  quite  hot.  This  makes  a 
thick  soup. 

Eggs  with  Cucumhers. — Pare  some  cucumbers  and  cut  into 
pieces  the  size  of  dice.  Put  in  a saucepan  with  a slice  of  ham,  an 
onion  stuck  with  cloves,  and  a few  spoons  good  gravy ; simmer 
slowly,  shaking  occasionally  until  done.  Take  out  the  ham  and 
onion  ; stir  in  yolks  of  two  eggs  l)eaten  in  a cup  cream ; put  into  a 
dish,  lay  half  a dozen  poached  eggs  on  top,  and  squeeze  over  some 
lemon  juice. 


EGGS. 


239 


Egg 
;3nd  take 


Terrace. — Boil  new-laid  eggs  ten  minutes,  shell,  cut  in  two. 
a small  slice  off  the  ends,  so  they  will  stand.  Take  out 
yolks  and  beat  in  a mortar,  after  hav- 
ing passed  them  through  a hair  sieve, 
together  with  an  equal  quantity  of  but- 
^ ter,  a little  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg,  two 
raw  eggs,  and  a large  tablespoon  chop- 
Egg  Terrace.  psd  parslcy.  Mlx  vcry  thoroughly,  and 

put  in  a dish.  Fill  the  eggs  with  this  mixture.  Make  some  good 
highly  flavored  forcemeat  (see  Meats),  and  smooth  a layer  of  it  on 
a plate,  place  the  filled  eggs  round  it,  put  a second  layer  of  the  force- 
meat in  the  centre,  and  arrange  the  other  eggs  upon  it ; baste 
gently  with  butter,  and  set  for  a few  minutes  in  the  oven  to  heat 
through  and  color  the  eggs.  Instead  of  forcemeat,  the  stuffing  may 
be  used  for  the  layers.  Serve  with  tomato  sauce.  This  dish  may 
b e served  as  an  entree,  or  for  breakfast,  luncheon  or  supper. 


Eggs  with  Cheese. — Cut  hard-boiled  eggs  into  slices  ; lay  them 
iijn  a buttered  dish  that  has  been  sprinkled  over  with  bread-crumbs  ; 
upon  each  piece  of  egg  lay  a slice  of  Gruyere  cheese  corresponding 
iiii  size ; place  a good  bit  of  butter  upon  each ; pepper  well,  sift  a few 
h'cead-crumbs  over,  and  put  in  oven  for  about  five  minutes.  Serve 
h Dt. 


Eggs  with  Mushrooms. — Slice,  fry,  and  drain  twelve  button 
mushrooms  and  two  onions ; boil  six  eggs  hard,  and  slice  them, 
v/hites  and  jolks  separately,  add  a tablespoon  butter  and  seasoning 
of  pepper  and  salt,  and  simmer  the  whole  in  a half  pint  good  gravy. 
J^'ut  in  the  sliced  yolks  last,  and  let  them  remain  a minute  only. 
Serve  very  hot,  and  garnish  with  thin  rings  of  some  of  the  white  of 
'';he  eggs.  Or  cut  two  mushrooms  into  dice  and  fry  for  one  minute 
;/i  a tablespoon  butter ; beat  six  eggs,  a little  salt,  pepper  and  a half 
mp  milk  or  cream  together  and  put  in  sauce-pan ; add  the  mush- 
rooms and  three  tablespoons  butter  and  stir  until  it  begins  to  thick- 
en ; take  from  fire  and  beat  rapidly  until  quite  thick  and  creamy. 
Pour  over  slices  of  hot  toast,  garnish  with  points  of  toast  and  serve 
immediately. 

Eggs  with  Peas. — Put  a pint  of  fresh,  tender  green  peas  into  a 
covered  vegetable  dish ; add  four  tablespoons  each  olive  oil  and 
water,  season  with  pepper,  salt  and  nutmeg,  cover  closely  and  place 
the  dish  over  boiling  water  until  the  peas  are  done ; then  make 
indentations  on  their  surface  with  a spoon  and  into  each  of  these 
break  an  egg ; beat  an  egg  and  pour  upon  the  top  ; and  when  well 
set,  serve  it  in  the  dish  in  which  it  was  dressed.  Or  boil  in  salt 
water,  half  pint  tender  green  peas ; drain,  and  when  cold,  mix  with 
the  yolks  of  eight  eggs,  and  whites  of  four,  strained  and  seasoned. 
Meat  some  butter  in  a frying-pan  and  put  in  eggs  and  peas.  Keep 


240 


EGGS. 


stirring  with  a spoon  till  eggs  are  set ; turn  into  a dish,  and  serve 
with  mint  sauce.  Any  cold  peas  can  he  used. 

Eggs  with  Syrup. — Make  a syrup  with  a little  more  than  a 
half  pint  water  and  two  tablespoons  sugar,  boiling  with  it  some 
thickly-sliced  lemon  peel ; strain  through  a sieve  and  when  cold  add 
to  it  yolks  of  eight  eggs  and  whites  of  two ; mix  well  and  flavor  with 
orange  flower  water ; pour  into  deep  dish  and  either  put  it  in  oven 
or  place  over  boiling  water  until  firm. 

Eggs  with  Tomatoes. — Peel  a dozen  tomatoes,  medium  size, 
cut  up  in  a saucepan  with  a little  butter,  pepper  and  salt ; when 
sufficiently  boiled,  beat  five  or  six  eggs,  and  just  before  serving  turn 
them  into  the  sauce-pan  with  the  tomatoes,  and  stir  one  way  for  two 
minutes,  or  until  they  are  well  done. 

Eggs  with  Vinegar. — Heat  some  butter  in  a frying-pan  until  oi 
a good  dark-brown  color ; break  six  or  eight  eggs  into  a dish ; seasof; 
any  flavor  desired,  and  slide  gently  into  frying-pan.  When  dom-' 
turn  carefully  into  a dish;  put  a good  tablespoon  strong  vineg?/ 
into  the  frying-pan,  bring  it  quickly  to  a boil,  pour  upon  the  eggii 
and  serve  hot  as  possible. 

HeEs  West. — Boil  six  or  eight  eggs  hard  and  cut  whites  froini 
yolks  in  long  thin  strips,  or  shavings,  set  aside  to  warmin  ver  v 
gentle  oven,  buttering  them  now  and  then  while  preparing  the  res  i 
Pound  a cup  minced  meat  or  fish  very  fine  in  u 
mortar,  mixing  in  gradually  the  yolks  of  eggs,  {i 
teaspoon  parsley  and  pepper  and  salt  to  tast,^ 
When  all  are  reduced  to  a smooth  paste,  mol  4 
with  the  hands  into  small,  egg-shaped  balls.  Place  in  the  center  c t' 
a dish,  arrange  the  shred  eggs  around  them,  in  imitation  of  a nesl, 
and  send 'to  table  with  small  rounds  of  fried  bread.  A cup  hot  draw;r;^ 
butter  sauce  poured  round  the  nest  is  an  appetizing  addition. 

Ox-Eyes. — Take  slices,  an  inch  thick,  from  good  light  bread  or 
roll,  and  cut  into  circles  with  a paste-cutter  three  inches  in  diameter ; 
with  a smaller  cutter  one  and  one-half  inches  in  diameter  cut  out  the 
middle  of  each  circle  or  cake,  leaving  the  ring  intact.  Fry  the  rings 
in  butter,  a bright  yellow  color ; butter  a dish  well,  lay  the  rings  in, 
and  pour  over  them  enough  sour  cream  to  moisten  well,  and  put, 
very  carefully,  a raw  egg  into  each  ring.  Dredge  with  a little  salt, 
and  put  a very  little  sweet  cream  on  top  of  each  egg.  Set  in  oven, 
and  if  pretty  hot  cover  lightly  with  paper.  When  set,  the  3mlks 
being  soft,  they  are  ready  to  serve.  Send  to  table  garnished  with 
parsley  or  water-cresses. 

Temperance  Egg-Nog. — Beat  well  the  3mlks  of  two  fresh  eggs, 
add  two  tablespoons  each  powdered  loaf  sugar,  and  orange  flower 


Hen’s  Nest. 


OMELETS. 


241 


water.  Stir  quickly,  and  add  a cup  boiling  water.  Drink  as  hot  as 
possible. 

Bread  Omelet. — Boil  one  cup  milk  or  cream  and  pour  over 
one  cup  bread  crumbs  and  let  stand  a few  minutes,  pressing  through 
a sieve  if  wished.  Beat  lightly  the  ycdks  of  six  eggs  in  a bowl,  add 
milk  and  bread,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  add  well-frothed  whites 
and  pour  into  hot  pan  prepared  with  a tablespoon  butter ; finish  as 
in  Plain  Omelette.  Some  add  a little  grated  nutmeg  and  also  cut 
in  squares,  turn,  fry  to  a delicate  brown,  and  serve.  Or  add  one 
tablespoon  flour,  one  onion  chopped  fine,  half  pint  chopped  parsley, 
pepper  and  salt ; finish  as  above  and  serve  as  a French  Omelette; 
or  omit  milk  and  flour  and  use  only  half  cup  bread  crumbs  and  add 
three  tablespoons  soft  butter  and  two  of  grated  cold  ham  and  a 
Savory  Omelette  will  result.  Less  eggs  may  be  used  in  any  of  the 
recipes. 

Cheese  Omelet. — Boil  in  pint  new  milk  until  dissolved  a half 
pound  good  rich  cheese,  sliced  thin.  Stir  in  four  eggs  beaten  very 
light.  Toast  some  bread,  butter  evenly,  putting  on  a little  mustard^ 
keep  stirring  the  omelet  and  add  a little  salt ; when  thickened,  which 
will  be  in  five  minutes,  if  fire  is  good,  pour  the  omelet  over  the 
dished  toast  and  serve  very  hot. 

Corn  Omelet. — Beat  three  eggs  lightly,  separately  if  wished 
extra  nice,  add  third  cup  milk,  three-quarters  pint  sliced  cold  boiled 
corn,  three  tablespoons  butter,  season  and  finish  as  Plain  Omelet. 

Cream  Omelet. — Beat  together  yolks  of  three  eggs,  one  and  a 
half  tablespoons  corn  starch  and  teaspoon  salt.  To  this  add  half 
cup  milk  and  well-frothed  whites.  Have  the  omelet  pan  with  a 
close  fitting  cover,  hot.,  put  in  tablespoon  butter,'  when  it  bubbles 
pour  in  omelet,  cover  and  place  where  it  will  not  burn.  Cook  eight 
minutes,  fold  and  turn  on  a hot  dish,  pour  around  it  a cream  sauce 
and  serve  at  once. 

MeOjt  or  Fish  Omelet. — Take  cold  meat,  ham  or  tongue,  fish, 
game,  or  poultry  of  any  kind  ; remove  all  skin,  sinew,  etc.,  and  either 
cut  in  small  pieces  or  pound  to  a paste  in  a mortar,  with  seasoning 
to  taste  of  spices  and  salt ; then  fry  in  a buttered  frying-pan  till  it 
'begins  to  brown,  and  pour  the  beaten  eggs  upon  it,  or  beat  it  up 
with  the  eggs,  or  spread  it  upon  them  after  they  have  begun  to  set 
in  the  pan.  In  any  case  serve  hot,  with  or  without  a sauce,  but 
garnished  with  fried  parsley,  pickles,  or  sliced  lemon.  The  right 
proportion  is  one  tablespoonful  of  chopi^ed  meat  to  four  eggs.  A 
little  milk,  gravy,  or  water  may  be  added  to  tlie  eggs  wliile  being 
beaten.  Potted  meats  make  admirable  omelets  in  the  above  manner. 
For  Mixed  Omelet  equal  portions  of  cold  chicken  or  turkey  may  be 


242 


OMELETS. 


Used  with  ham  or  tongue,  seasoning  if  liked  with  a little  chopped 
onion,  pepper  and  sweet  herbs.  Put  in  the  pan  with  a ladle  and  fry 
In  flat  cakes. 

Milk  Omelet. — To  lightly  beaten  yolks  of  three  eggs  add  three 
tablespoons  milk,  or  more  if  wished,  and  stir  in  lightly  the  well 
beaten  whites;  cook  as  in  first  recipe,  or  bake  in  oven  as  described  in 
general  directions  and  serve  as  a Baked  Omelet^  adding  salt  just  be- 
fore placing  on  dish. 

Mushroom  Omelet. — Lightly  fry  some  pickled  button  mush- 
rooms in  either  fresh  butter  or  oil.  When  fresh  button  mushrooms 
can  be  obtained,  they  should  be  cleaned  and  dipped  into  lemon-juice, 
and  afterwards  either  lightly  fried  in  butter,  and  the  eggs  poured 
</'Ver  them  ; or  simply,  without  being  fried,  laid  upon  the  eggs  when 
poured  into  the  pan ; add  a little  pepper,  salt,  and  lemon-juice,  and 
serve  when  sufficiently  done. 

Olive  Omelet. — Stone  and  halve' a tablespoon  Italian  olives; 
aiid  them  to  the  yolks  of  seven  and  the  whites  of  five  eggs,  beaten 
u p with  the  juice  of  an  orange.  Heat  some  olive-oil  in  a frying-pan, 
pour  in  the  omelet,  and  directly  it  is  well  set,  double  it  up,  and  serve 
U upon  a napkin  folded  in  a dish. 

Orange  Omelet. — Three  eggs,  teaspoon  each  orange  juice  and 
girated  rind  of  orange ; beat  yolks  and  whites  separately,  then  mix 
tliem  carefully  together  and  put  in  a buttered,  heated  frying  pan.  If 
liked,  strew  fresh  sugar  over  it  and  glaze  with  salamander » Make 
l.smon  Omelet  same  way. 

Oyster  Omelet. — Cook  fifteen  oysters  rare  done  in  little  sauce- 
pan separately,  with  a tablespoon  milk,  scrap  of  butter  and  thicken- 
ing to  make  white  sauce  of  the  liquor ; break  the  four  eggs  in  a bowl, 
put  in  a tablespoon  milk  and  beat  with  the  wire  egg  whisk  ; add  a 
pinch  of  salt.  Shake  a tablespoon  melted  lard  about  in  the  large 
omelet  frying  pan  and  before  it  gets  very  hot  pour  in  the  omelet  and 
let  it  cook  rather  slowly.  When  nearly  done  in  the  center  place  the 
oysters  with  a spoon  in  the  hollow  middle  and  pull  over  the  further 
edge  to  cover  them  in  ; slide  on  to  the  dish,  smooth  side  up.  Gar- 
nish with  parsley  and  lemon. 

Plain  Omelet. — Put  the  yolks  of  three  or  four  eggs  into  a bowl 
and  beat  lightly ; add  one  tablespoon  butter  broken  into  small 
pieces ; this  makes  a much  lighter  omelet  and  should  always  be 
added ; now  gently  stir  in  the  well  frothed  whites  and  a little  pepper. 
Have  the  hot  omelet  pan  prepared  with  one  tablespoon  butter  and 


OMELETS. 


243 


as  soon  as  it  bubbles,  stir  the  omelet  once  or  twice  and  pour  it  in  ; 
lift  it  with  a large  two-pronged  fork  (a  carving 
fork  will  do),  carefully  raising  the  edges  with 
the  fork  as  fast  as  they  cook,  and  turn  them  to- 
ward the  center  until  the  omelet  lies  in  the  mid- 
dle of  the  pan  in  a light  mass,  cooked  soft  or 
hard  to  suit  .the  taste ; the  inside  must  always  be  creamy.  When 
the  omelet  is  done  to  the  degree  desired,  add  salt,  turn  upon  a hot 
dish  without  touching  it  with  either  fork  or  spoon,  and  serve  at  once. 
Another  excellent  method  is  to  beat  three  eggs,  without  separating 
the  whites  and  yolks,  with  a little  salt  and  pepper,  and  put  them  in- 
to a frying  pan  containing  an  ounce  of  butter,  browned ; let  the 
omelet  stand  for  a moment,  and  then  turn  the  edges  up  gently  with 
a fork,  and  shake  the  pan  to  prevent  its  burning  or  sticking  at  the 
bottom.  Five  minutes  will  fry  it  a delicate  brown,  fold  over  and 
serve  on  a very  hot  dish ; never  cook  an  omelet  until  it  is  just  want- 
ed ; the  flavor  may  be  very  much  enhanced  by  adding  minced  pars- 
ley, minced  onions  or  shallot,  or  grated  cheese,  allowing  a level 
tablespoon  of  former,  and  half  the  quantity  of  latteiv  to  the  above 
proportion  of  eggs.  Shrimps  or  oysters  may  also  be  added ; the  lat- 
ter should  be  scalded  in  their  liquor,  and  then  bearded  and  cut  into 
small  pieces.  Be  careful  not  to  have  omelet  greasy,  burnt,  or  too 
much  done,  and  cook  over  a gentle  Are,  that  the  whole  of  the  sub- 
stance may  be  heated  without  drying  up  the  outside.  They  are  some- 
times served  with  gravy ; but  this  should  never  he  2)oured  over  them^ 
but  served  in  a tureen,  as  the  liquid  causes  the  omelet  to  become 
heavy  and  flat,  instead  of  light  and  soft.  In  making  the  gravy,  the 
flavor  should  be  delicate,  and  arrowToot  or  rice  flour  should  be  used 
for  thickening.  For  Cheese  Omelet  make  a plain  omelet  as  above, 
and  as  soon  as  it  begins  to  thicken  sprinkle  in  three  tablespoons 
grated  cheese.  A very  nice  Chicken  Omelet  is  made  by  adding  to 
the  plain  omelet  just  before  folding  a cup  of  cooked  chicken  chopped 
flne  and  and  warmed  in  cream  sauce. 

Potato  Omelet. — Boil  two  tablespoons  potato  flour  in  three- 
fourths  pint,  milk  for  half  an  hour,  with  sugar  to  taste,  and  flavor  if 
desired.  Beat  separately  the  whites  and  yolks'  of  five  eggs,  stir 
through  the  milk,  and  bake  fifteen  minutes  in  hot  oven.  Or  take 
two  mealy  potatoes,  mash  well  with  enough  cream  to  pass  them 
through  a sieve  and  add  a little  white  pepper  and  salt  ( or  sugar,  if 
fqr  a sweet  omelet) ; beat  six  new-laid  eggs,  put  with  the  potatoes  ; 
butter  a frying-pan  and  heat  well ; pour  in  the  omelet,  and  as  soon 
as  it  sets  turn  over  the  ends  and  serve  hot.  With  a sweet  omelet,  a 
little  cinnamon  or  grated  lemon  peel,  ginger  or  nutmeg,  may  be  em- 
ployed. 

Puif  Omelet. — Stir  into  the  yolks  of  six  eggs  and  whites  of 
three  beaten  very  light,  one  tablespoon  flour  mixed  with  a cup  cream 


244 


OMELETS. 


or  milk,  and  salt  and  pepper  to  taste ; melt  a tablespoon  butter  in 
a pan,  pour  in  the  mixture  and  set  the  pan  into  a hot  oven ; when  it 
thickens,  pour  over  it  the  remaining  whites  of  eggs  well  beaten,  re- 
turn it  to  the  oven  and  let  it  bake  a delicate  brown.  Slip  off  on 
large  plate,  and  eat  as  soon  as  done. 

Sweet  Omelet. — (Baked).  Mix  yolks  of  four  eggs  with  four 
heaping  teaspoons  powdered  sugar ; add  teaspoon  vanilla  and  care- 
fully cut  into  this  the  well-frothed  whites  ; pour  it  on  a thick  metal 
dish  well  buttered  and  bake  till  brown,  about  ten  minutes.  Place 
dish  on  a hot  platter  and  serve  at  once.  If  liked,  dust  with  sugar 
just  before  placing  in  oven,  and  the  chopped  rind  of  half  a lemon 
may  be  added.  This  may  be  baked  in  an  iron  frying-pan  and 
slipped  carefully  upon  the  hot  platter. 

Sweet  Omelet. — (Fried).  Mix  with  the  beaten  yolks  of  seven 
<»ggs  two  teaspoons  powdered  loaf-sugar,  the  grated  rind  of  half  a 
lemon,  and  a little  cream ; add  the  beaten  whites,  whip  up  all  together 
and  fry  quickly  so  as  not  to  scorch  it ; when  set,  turn  in  the  ends, 
S/ift  pounded  loaf  sugar  upon  it,  and  glaze  with  a red-hot  salamander 
or  shov.el ; or  use  sugar  with  any  plain  omelet  recipe  instead  of  pep- 
per and  salt.  For  a Fruit  Omelet  enclose  in  the  center  any  kind  of 
jelly,  marmalade  or  jam — currant  or  grape  jelly  is  best.  To  make  a 
Chocolate  Omelet^  put  over  the  eggs  when  slightly  firm  a tablespoon 
scraped  chocolate  mixed  to  a paste  with  two  eggs  ; fold  as  soon  as 
set,  sprinkle  powdered  sugar  or  cinnamon  over  and  serve. 

Vegetable  Omelet. — Make  a puree  by  mashing  up  ready-dressed 
vegetables  together  with  a little  milk,  cream  or  gravy,  and  some 
seasoning.  The  most  suitable  vegetables  are  cucumbers,  artichokes, 
onions,  sorrel,  green  peas,  tomatoes,  lentils,  mushrooms,  asparagus 
tops,  potatoes,  truffles,  or  turnips.  Prepare  some  eggs  by  slightly 
beating  and  straining  them ; pour  them  into  a nice  hot  frying-pan, 
well-buttered ; spread  the  puree  in  the  center,  and  when  perfectly 
hot,  fold  and  serve.  Or,  cold  vegetables  may  be  merely  choppecl 
small,  then  fried  in  a little  butter,  and  some  beaten  and  seasoned 
eggs  poured  over. 

Water  Omelet. — Break  eggs  in  a bowl,  stir  rather  than  beat,  and 
to  each  three  eggs  add  a teaspoon  or  so  cold  water,  salt  and  pepper 
to  taste,  (or  salt  after  cooking)  and  a little  scalded  and  chopped 
parsley.  Put  tablespoon  butter  in  a hot  omelet  pan,  pour  in  eggs, 
cook  as  above  in  first  recipe  and  serve.  The  water  makes  the  ome- 
let light  and  moist. 

Waverly  Ornelet. — Boil  one  pint  and  a half  milk  and  pour  it 
over  one  tablespoon  each  butter  and  flour  well  mixed  and  cook 
three  or  four  minutes,  stirring  all  the  time.  Let  cool  and  then  add 


EGGS. 


245 


four  eggs,  yolks  and  whites  beaten  separately,  a little  salt  and  pour 
in  a buttered  quart  baking  dish  and  bake  twenty  minutes. 

To  Keep  Eggs. — Put  a two-inch  layer  of  salt  in  bottom  of  stone 
jar,  then  a layer  of  fresl).  eggs,  large  end  down,  then  salt,  then  eggs, 
and  so  on  till  jar  is  full,  with  a layer  of  salt  at  top  ; cover  and  put 
in  a cool  place,  but  not  where  they  will  freeze.  This  is  a simple, 
easy,  and  inexpensive  way,  and  has  been  tested  for  years.  Or,  dip 
the  eggs  in  melted  wax,  or  a weak  solution  of  gum,  or  in  flax-seed 
oil,  or  rub  over  simply  with  lard,  each  of  which  renders  the  shell 
impervious  to  air,  and  pack  away  in  oats  or  bran.  For  one’s  own 
use  the  latter  is  a good  method,  keeping  the  eggs  perfectly,  but  it 
discolors  the  shells,  and  renders  them  unfit  for  market.  Or,  mix 
together  three  pounds  quick  lime,  ten  ounces  salt,  one  ounce  cream 
tartar  and  a gallon  and  a half  boiling  water  and  cover  closely.  This 
solution  may  be  poured  over  the  eggs  the  day  after  preparing.  They 
will  keep-  well  but  the  shells  will  become  very  brittle. 

There  has  always  existed  a great  difference  of  opinion  as  to 
which  end  down  eggs  should  be  placed  in  packing  for  winter  use. 
A well  known  poultry  breeder  gives  what  seems  to  be  a sound  reason 
for  packing  them  larger  end  down.  He  says : ^‘The  air-chamber 
is  in  the  larger  end,  and  if  that  is  placed  down  the  yolk  will  not 
break  through  and  touch  the  shell,  and  thereby  spoil.  Another 
thing,  if  the  air-chamber  is  down,  the  egg  is  not  as  liable  to  shrink 
away.  These  are  two  important  reasons  deducted  from  experiments, 
ajid  they  materially  affect  the  keeping  of  eggs.” 


246 


FISH. 


FISH. 


As  a food,  fish  ranks  just  below  meat  on  the  one  hand  and  abov.t 
vegetables  on  the  other.  It  is  easier  of  digestion  but  less  nutritious^ 
than  meats,  if  salmon  is  excepted,  which  is  extremely  hearty  food, 
and  should  be  eaten  sparingly  by  children  and  those  whose  diges^ 
tion  is  not  strong.  But,  though  it  is  not  recommended  that  fish 
should  be  the  only  animal  food  of  which  one  partakes,  its  value  as  y 
part  of  the  diet  is  indicated  by  the  larger  proportion  of  phosphorus 
which  it  contains,  and  which  renders  it  especially  fitted  for  the  uso 
of  those  who  perform  much  brain  work.  There  can  be  no  doubt  that 
fish  might  with  advantage  enter  much  more  largely  into  our  family 
diet  than  it  does  at  present,  as  it  would  not  only  afford  a pleasant 
variety  in  fare,  but  would  also  supply  certain  elements  of  blood 
which  are  not  obtained  in  sufficient  quantity  from  either  meat  or 
vegetables.  On  the  score  of  economy,  too,  fish  should  receive  more 
attention  from  the  housekeeper.  The  white  kinds  are  least  nutri- 
tious ; and  the  oily,  such  as  salmon,  eels,  herrings,  etc.,  most  diffi- 
cult of  digestion.  Fish  must  be  fresh,  the  fresher  the  better — those 
being  most  perfect  which  go  straight  from  their  native  element  into 
the  hands  of  the  cook — and  they  may  be  known  to  be  perfectly  fresh 
when  the  form  is  rigid  and  the  eyes  full  and  bright.  If  fish  is  kept 
on  ice  until  used  it  will  retain  much  of  its  freshness,  but  if  not  kept 
cool  it  will  lose  the  delicate  flavor,  which  nothing  can  bring  back. 
The  season  of  the  year  has  a most  decided  influence  upon  the  qual- 
ity of  flsh.  In  general,  flsh  are  in  the  best  condition  just  before  they 
spawn,  but  as  soon  as  the  spawning  is  over  they  are  unfit  for  food, 
being  sometimes  positively  unwholesome.  This  circumstance  is  of 


FISH. 


247 


such  importance  that  it  has  been  made  a subject  of  legislative  action, 
regulating  the  times  during  which  only  certain  fish  may  be  caught. 
When  fish  are  in  season,  the  muscles  are  firm  and  they  boil  white 
and  curdy ; when  transparent  and  bluish,  though  sufficiently  boiled, 
it  is  a sign  that  they  are  not  in  season  or  not  fresh.  For  further 
hints  on  selecting  fish  see  Marketing. 

Salmon,  mackerel,  herring  and  trout,  and  all  fresh  water  fish, 
soon  spoil  and  should  be  prepared  for  table  as  soon  as  possible  after 
they  are  caught.  Clean  them  on  a dry  table,  not  in  a pan  of  water, 
using  as  Ifttle  water  as  is  compatible  with  cleanliness.  Remove  all 
scales  (if  hard  to  scrape  off  these  may  be  loosened  by  plunging  the 
fish  into  boiling  water,  but  it  must  be  taken  out  instantly  or  it  will 
1/ireak  the  skin  and  spoil  the  fish),  and  scrape  out  entrails,  every  par- 
ticle of  blood,  and  the  white  skin  that  lies  along  the  backbone,  being 
cv-reful  not  to  crush  the  fish  more  than  is  absolutely  necessary  in 
cleaning.  When  a large  fish  for  boiling  or  baking  is  not  to  be 
stuffed,  do  not  split  open  but  draw  it  at  the  gills.  Rinse  thor- 
o ighly  in  cold  water,  using  only  what  is  necessary  for  perfect  clean- 
liness, drain,  wipe  dry,  and  place  on  ice  until  ready  to  cook.  If  to 
be  cut  up  before  cooking  wash  while  whole,  else  much  of  the  flavor 
will  be  lost.  It  is  a common  error  to  wash  fish  too  much,  as  by 
doing  so  the  flavor  is  also  injured.  If  the  fish  is  to  be  boiled,  a lit- 
tle salt  and  vinegar  should  be  put  into  the  water,  to  give  it  firmness, 
after  it  is  cleaned.  Fresh  cod-fish,  whiting  and  haddock  are  none 
the  worse  for  being  a little  salted  and  kept  a day,  but  even  better ; 
and  if  the  weather  is  not  very  hot,  they  will  be  good  for  two  days. 
To  remove  the  earthy  taste  from  fresh-water  fish,  sprinkle  with  salt, 
and  let  stand  overnight,  or  ’at  least  a few  hours,  before  cooking ; 
rinse  off,  wipe  dry,  and  to  completely  absorb  all  the  moisture,  place 
in  a folded  napkin  a short  time.  Fresh-water  fish  should  never  be 
soaked  in  water  except  when  frozen,  when  they  may  be  placed  in 
ice-cold  water  to  thaw,  and  then  cooked  immediately.  Salt  fish  may 
be  soaked  overnight  in  cold  water,  changing  water  once  or  twice  if 
very  salt.  To  freshen  fish,  always  place  it  skin-side  up,  so  that  the 
salt  may  have  free  course  to  the  bottom  of  pan,  where  it  naturally 
settles.  When  fish  is  cheap  and  plentiful,  and  a larger  quantity  is 
purchased  than  is  immediately  wanted,  the  surplus  should  be  potted, 
or  pickled,  or  salted  and  hung  up ; or  it  may  be  fried,  that  it  may 
serve  for  stewing  the  next  day.  All  cold  fish  left  from  any  mode  of 


248 


FISH. 


cooking  may  be  used  in  making  salads,  croquettes,  etc.  If  a portion 
of  a salmon  is  not  used,  parboil  and  set  it  aside  in  the  liquor,  boil  - 
ing  up  when  wanted.  It  is  said  that  fish  may  be  preserved  by 
sprinkling  with  sugar,  which  does  not  harm  its  flavor,  and  that  sal- 
mon thus  treated  has  a more  agreeable  taste.  Those  who  live  re- 
mote from  the  sea  and  cannot  get  fish  hard  and  fresh  should  wet  it 
with  a beaten  egg  before  mealing  or  breading  to  prevent  its  breaking. 
All  fish  which  have  been  packed  in  ice  should  be  cooked  immediately 
after  removal,  as  they  soon  grow  soft  and  lose  their  flavor. 

To  bone  and  skin  a fish,  cut  down  the  middle  till  bone  reached, 

then  cut  the  fillet  or  strip  out  from  the  side, 
avoiding  the  bone ; lay  fillet  on  board,  remove  Boning  Knife, 
from  skin  by  turning  the  blade  of  knife  between  the  flesh  and  skin 
and  keeping  it  perfectly  parallel  with  the  board  and  thus  cutting 
and  separating  the  skin  and  flesh.  To  simply  bone  a fish,  remove 
back  bone  by  running  a thin  sharp  knife  along  under  it,  and  with  a 
smaller  knife  loosen  and  take  out  the  long  bones  one  at  a time. 

Fish  should  always  be  well  cooked,  being  both  unpalatable  and 
unwholesome  when  underdone,  and  the  mode  of  cooking  con- 
siderably affects  their  properties  as  food.  Plain  boiling,  baking, 
broiling  and  roasting  appear  to  be  the  favorite  methods.  Nearly  all 
the  larger  fresh  fish  are  boiled,  the  medium-sized  are  baked  or  broiled 
and  the  small  are  fried.  For  boiling,  a fish  weighing  from  four  to 
seven  pounds,  should  be  chosen ; for  baking,  from  four  to  nkiO 
pounds,  though  the  best  size  is  six  or  seven ; if  wanted  for  broiling 
select  those  weighing  about  three  pounds  and  a half  and  split  in 
two ; for  frying,  a pound  to  a pound  and  a half  weight  is  best.  The 
very  large  ones  are  cut  up  and  sold  in  pieces  of  convenient  size. 
The  method  of  cooking  which  retains  most  nourishment  is  broiling, 
baking  is  next  best,  and  boiling  poorest  of  all.  Steaming  is  better 
than  boiling.  In  baking  or  boiling  place  a fish  as  nearly  as  possible 
in  the  same  position  it  occupies  in  the  water.  To  retain  it  there, 
shape  like  the  letter  “S,”  pass  a long  skewer  through  the  head,  body, 
and  tail,  or  tie  a cord  around  tail,  pass  it  through  body,  and  tie 
around  the  head.  Or  it  may  be  formed  in  circle  with  tail  in  its 
mouth.  Lake  Superior  trout  and  white-fish  are  the  best  for  baking, 
and  white-fish  is  also  nice  for  broiling.  The  gudgeon  is  a cheap 
fish,  rather  bony,  and  is  generally  fried.  The  blue-fish  is  excellent 
boiled  or  baked  with  a stuffing  of  bread,  butter  and  onions.  Green 


FISH. 


249 


or  sea-bass  are  boiled  with  egg  sauce,  and  garnished  ivith  parsley. 
Salmon  are  baked  or  boiled,  and  smelts  are  cooked  by  dropping 
into  boiling  fat.  The  sheep’s-head,  which  requires  most  cooking  of 
all  fish,  is  always  stuffed  and  baked.  The  cod  is  undoubtedly  the 
best  fish  for  all  purposes  that  comes  to  eastern  markets,  and  are 
packed  in  ice  and  sent  over  the  country,  but  because  so  plentiful  and 
cheap  and  always  to  be  had  are  not  so  much  appreciated  as  other 
fish  not  so  easily  obtained.  While  all  delicate  fish  lose  flavor  soon 
after  they  are  caught,  the  cod  not  only  retains  but  improves  in 
flavor  if  kept  a day  or  two,  with  the  addition  of  a little  salt  to  give 
it  firmness.  The  “shoulder”  is  most  highly  esteemed.  As  food  for 
invalids,-  white-fish,  such  as  the  ling,  cod,  haddock,  coal  fish  and 
vhiting,  are  the  best,  while  flat  fish,  as  soles,  skate,  turbot  and 
fl  ounder,  are  also  good.  In  garnishing  fish  great  nicety  is  required. 
The  principal  garnishes  used  are  slices  or  quarters  of  lemon,  fried 
or  raw  parsle}^  fresh  fennel,  pickles,  scraped  horse-radish,  small 
pieces  of  toast,  the  liver  of  the  fish,  lobster  coral,  tomatoes  quartered, 
sliced  cucumber,  sliced  orange,  fried  oysters,  fried  gudgeons  or 
smelts,  etc.  The  latter  when  served  as  a garnish  for  a large  fish 
should  be  fried  in  the  shape  of  rings.  This  is  easily  done  by  putting 
tail  of  fish  in  its  mouth,  and  holding  it  with  a wooden  tooth-pick. 
After  it  is  fried,  the  pin  is  withdrawn,  as  the  fried  fish  will  hold  its 
shape.  Place  these  rings  around  the  fish,  with  an  additional  gar- 
nish of  parsley  and  lemon  slices  ; or  the  rings  may  be  served  alone 
In  a circle  around  the  side  of  a platter,  with  a tomato  or  a tartare 
sauce  in  the  center.  If  Fried  Parsley  be  used  it  must  be  washed, 
and  picked  and  thrown  into  fresh  water ; then  when  the  lard  or  drip- 
ping boils  throw  in  the  parsley  right  from  the  water  and  instantly 
it  will  be  green  and  crisp  and  must  be  taken  up  at  once.  Fish  with 
very  good  sauce  is  more  appreciated  than  almost  any  other 
dish.  The  liver  and  roe,  in  some  instances,  should  be  placed  on  the 
dish,  in  order  that  they  may  be  distributed  in  the  course  of  serving ; 
but  to  each  recipe  is  appended  the  proper  mode  of  serving  and  gar- 
nishing. One  of  the  most  essential  things  in  serving  fish  is  to  have 
everything  hot,  and  quickly  dished,  so  that  all  may  go  to  the  table 
at  once.  Serve  fresh  fish  with  squash  and  green  peas,  salt  fish  with 
beets  and  carrots,  salt  pork  and  potatoes  and  parsnips  with  either. 
If  a fish  is  to  be  served  whole  do  not  cut  off  the  head  and  tail.  It 
also  presents  a better  appearance  to  stand  the  fish  on  its  belly  rather 


250 


FISH. 


than  lay  it  on  its  side.  Always  serve  fish,  if  possible,  with  its  appro- 
priate sauce,  which  is  an  almost  marvelous  improvement  to  som6' 
kinds,  reminding  one  of  the  old  gentleman  who  used  to  remark  that 
‘hhe  egg  sauce  v/as  the  best  of  the  fish.” 

Eels  must  be  dressed  as  soon  as  possible,  or  they  lose  their 
sweetness ; cot  off  the  head,  skin  them,  cut  them  open,  and  scrape 
them  free  from  every  string,  rubbing  them  with  salt,  or  dipping  into 
hot  water  to  remove  the  slime  adhering  to  them.  They  are  good 
except  in  the  hottest  summer  months,  the  fat  ones  being  best. 

In  cooking  fish,  care  must  be  taken  not  to  use  the  same  knives 
or  spoons  in  the  preparation  of  it  and  other  food,  or  the  latter  will 
be  tainted  with  the  fishy  flavor,  and  it  is  well  to  have  special  uten- 
sils for  preparing  and  cooking  fish,  and  used  only  for  that  purpose. 

The  amateur  cook  should  not  be  affrighted  at  the  number, 
names  and  length  of  recipes  given  under  this  (or  any  other)  head, 
but  undertake  any  of  them  without  fear  of  failure.  The  mode  of 
preparing  is  in  most  cases  really  simple,  and  the  directions  so  plain 
that  success  is  sure.  Instead  of  serving  fish  boiled  or  fried  in  the 
same  old  way,  try  some  of  the  newer  and  more  attractive  and  ap- 
petizing methods  under  baking*,  frying,  boiling,  etc.,  as  court  au, 
houilloii^  which  is  merely  boiling  the  fish  in  a vegetable  broth  fla- 
vored with  certain  herbs  and  spices.  The  collared,  curried  and  potted 
fish  will  be  found  very  delicious  changes,  and  are  easily  prepared. 
Some  additions  may  be  needed  to  the  stock  of  spices  and  herbs  before 
beginning,  but  once  used  they  will  be  considered  as  indispensable  as 
pepper  and  salt  and  be  thereafter  kept  on  hand  with  as  little  trouble, 
and  at  very  small  expense.  The  French  owe  their  fame  as  cooks 
largely  to  their  skill  in  combining  ingredients,  flavors  and  season- 
ings, and  their  artistic  methods  of  serving,  producing  from  bits  of 
cold  fish,  meat,  or  vegetables  and  stale  crusts,  with  the  addition  of 
condiments,  dishes  both  handsome  and  delicious.  Go  thou  and  do 
likewise. 

In  buying  fish  there  is  opportunity  for  the  exercise  of  great  care 
and  judgment,  even  more  than  in  buying  meats,  as  freshness  is 
essential  to  delicacy  in  fish.  The  sooner  it  is  cooked  after  leaving 
the  water  the  pleasanter  the  flavor.  For  particular  directions  in 
selecting,  consult  the  chapter  on  marketing. 


FISH. 


251 


The  fish  to  be  had  in  the  markets  of  all  the  larger  cities  are 
enumerated  below ; the  fresh-water  during  Spring  and  Fall,  and  salt- 
water through  the  Winter  also. 

FRESH-WATER  FISH. 


Black  Bass, 

Croppies, 

Herring, 

Ring  Perch, 

Pickerel, 

Blue  Pike, 

Wall-eyed  Pike, 

Brook  Trout, 

Lake  or  Mackinaw  Trout, 
Siskiwit, 

Sturgeon, 

White  Fish. 


SALT-WATER  FISH. 

Sea  or  Green  Bass, 
Blue-Fish, 

Cod, 

Flounders, 

Haddock, 

Halibut, 

Salt-water  Herring, 
Mackerel, 

Spanish  Mackerel, 

Pompano, 

Kennebec  Salmon, 

California  or  Oregon  Salmon, 
Sheeps-head, 

Red  Snappers, 

Smelts. 


Baited  Fish. — After  the  fish  has  been  properly  cleaned  and 
rinsed,  wipe  dry  with  a cloth  and  rub  well  inside  with  salt  and  pep- 
per. When  large  enough,  stuff  the  fish  with  a bread  stuffing,  or  a 
delicate  forcemeat,  and  insert  skewers,  sew  or  wind  with  a cord  to 
keep  it  in  form,  and  dredge  well  with  salt  and  pepper  and  flour. 
The  fish  should  be  placed  on  a trivet,  a 
perforated  tin  sheet,  or  a large  tin  plate,  or 
if  nothing  better  is  at  hand,  a tin  pot  cover 
and  this  set  into  the  baking  pan.  This 
keeps  it  off  the  bottom  of  the  pan,  thus  preventing  its  burning,  and 
the  fish  can  be  much  more  easily  dished  in  perfect  form.  Plenty  of 
butter,  olive  oil,  or  American  cooking  oil  should  be  used  to  prevent 
its  becoming  dry,  and  the  fish  should  be  frequently  basted  while 
baking.  Or  score  or  cut  gashes  across  the  fish,  half  an  inch  deep 
and  two  inches  long,  cut  strips  of  pork  to  fit  and  put  them  in  the 
gashes,  dredge  as  above,  cover  the  bottom  of  the  pan  with  hot 
water  and  place  in  a moderate  oven,  baking  slowly  first  hour,  then 
increase  to  a very  hot  oven.  Baste  ever}^  fifteen  minutes  from  the 
drippings  in  the  pan,  and  after  basting  dredge  each  time  with  a lit- 
tle salt,  pepper,  and  flour.  The  water  in  the  pan  must  be  often  re- 
newed, as  the  bottom  must  only  be  just  covered  each  time.  A good- 
sized  stuffed  fish  should  bake  an  hour  and  a half  to  two  hours  (some 
bake  fifteen  minutes  for  each  pound),  and  when  done  will  be  nicely 
browned  if  above  directions  are  followed.  Take  up  on  a.hot  platter, 
remove  the  strings,  garnish  and  serve  with  a gravy  made  from  the 
drippings  in  the  pan,  or  any  sauce  preferred.  Some  like  fish  baked 


252 


FISH. 


in  the  marinade  given  in  Boiled  Fish;  or  put  into  the  baking  pan 
before  preparing  the  fish  two  tablespoons  butter,  a carrot,  turnij), 
potato,  and  onion,  cut  in  slices,  two  blades  mace,  teaspoon  white 
pepper,  tablespoon  celery  seed,  six  cloves  and  a cup  vinegar ; set  hi 
the  oven  until  the  fish  is  ready  to  bake  when  use  it  for  basting,  add- 
ing hot  water  as  needed,  serving  it  (strained)  with  the  fish  as  a sauce, 
with  the  addition  of  a little  flour  to  thicken.  Almost  any  fish  may 
be  baked,  though  those  most  commonly  cooked  in  this  way  are 
Lake  Superior  trout,  blue-fish,  black-fish,  pike,  rock-fish,  bass, 
white-fish,  shad  and  mackerel.  Any  of  the  larger  kinds  of  fish  may 
be  baked  in  slices.  Fish  too  small  to  be  stuffed  should  be  dipped 
in  beaten  egg  and  sprinkled  with  bread-crumbs  before  baking. 
Should  the  oven  become  too  hot  put  a piece  of  buttered  writing  pa- 
per over  the  fish  to  prevent  its  becoming  scorched.  Mackerel  is 
sometimes  baked  entirely  enveloped  in  greased  writing  paper,  and  is 
then  served  in  the  paper.  When  herrings  are  liked  to  look  red 
some  add  a little  cochineal  and  saltpetre  to  the  drippings. 


Fish-Kettle. 


Boiled  Fish. — For  boiling,  a fish-kettle  is  almost  indispensable, 
as  it  is  very  difficult  to  remove  a large  fish  without  breaking  from 
an  ordinary  kettle.  The  fish-kettle  is  an  oblong  covered  boiler,  in 
which  is  suspended  a perforated  tin  plate,  with  a handle  at  each 

end,  on  which  the  fish  rests  while  boiling, 
and  with  which  it  is  lifted  out  when  done 
and  placed  over  a kettle  to  drain  a mo  • 
ment  or  two.  From  this  tin  it  is  easily 
slipped  off  to  the  platter  on  which  it 
goes  to  the  table.  When  no  fish-kettle  is 
at  hand,  wrap  and  pin  in  a cloth  (some 
flour  it),  lay  in  a circle  on  a steamer  tin, 
a sieve  or  plate,  and  set  in  a kettle.  When 
done  the  fish  may  be  lifted  out  gently  by  the  cloth  and  thus  removed 
to  the  platter.  Some  simply  spread  a napkin  on  the  plate  under' 
the  fish,  leaving  the  four  corners  outside  the  kettle,  with  which  to 
lift  it  out ; or  a towel  or  napkin  may  be  put  under  the  plate,  the 
ends  brought  together  and  tied  over  the  fish,  and  when  done  it  may 
be  lifted  from  the  kettle,  plate  and  all,  hy  putting  a fork  under  the 
knot,  and  so  prevent  all  possibility  of  the  fish  breaking  from  its  own 
weight,  as  it  might  when  lifted  from  the  plate  in  a cloth,  unless 
done  very  carefully.  All  large  fish  ( except  salmon,  which  is  put  on 
in  hot  water  to  preserve  its  color)  should  be’  put  on  in  cold  water, 
but  small  ones  in  boiling  water,  for  the  reason  that  fish  cooks  so 
quickly  that  almost  as  soon  as  it  touches  the  boiling  water  it  is 
done,  and  if  a large  one  were  put  *on  in  boiling  water  the  outside 
would  be  done  and  the  inside  raw.  Large  fish  must  be  cooked  very 
gently  or  the  outside  will  break  before  the  inner  part  is  done,  thus 
creating  a waste  and  spoiling  the  handsome  and  appetizing  appear- 


FISH. 


253 


ance  of  the  fish;  if  necessary  to  add  a little  water  while  the  fish  is 
cooking,  it  should  be  poured  in  carefully  at  the  side  of  the  vessel  , 
but  the  less  Avater  used  the  better.  Fish  should  never  he  alloAved  t ,> 
boil  hard,  but  the  water  should  be  brought  to  the  boiling  point  au 
quickly  as  possible,  when  all  scum  must  be  taken  off,  and  the  fish 
kept  simmering  until  done.  Simmering  is  a gentle  bubbling  of  the 
water.  Should  it  begin  to  boil  rapidly,  draw  it  to  back  of  range,  or 
throw  in  a little  cold  water.  In  boiling  fish,  allow  five  to  ten  mim 
utes  to  the  pound,  according  to  thickness,  after  jnitting  into  the 
water,  and  some  will  be  done  when  the  boiling  point  is  reached. 
To  test,  pass  a knife  along  a bone,  and  if  done  the  fish  Avill  separate 
easily.  Remove  the  moment  it  is  done,  or  it  will  become  “woolly’' 
and  insipid.  Salmon  and  all  dark-*fleshed  fish  require  longer  boih 
ing  than  the  white-fleshed  kinds.  A whole  mackerel  needs  about  a 
quarter  of  an  hour  to  do  it  properly ; herrings,  and  many  other 
sorts  of  fish,  scarcely  half  so  long.  The  addition  of  salt  and  vinegar 
to  water  in  which  fish  is  boiled,  seasons  the  fish,  and  at  the  sam^ 
time  hardens  the  Avater,  so  that  it  extracts  less  of  the  nutritiouf^ 
part  of  the  fish.  Some  rub  vinegar  or  lemon  juice  on  the  outside  o( 
the  fish  before  putting  it  in  the  Avater.  When  only  salt  is  added  to 
the  water  in  AA'hich  fish  is  boiled  it  is,  in  French  parlance,  a Vemi  de 
sel]  Avhen  sea-Avater  is  used  the  fish  is  said  to  be  dressed  a Vllollan- 
daise;  when  the  water  is  flavored  Avith  vinegar,  spices  and  onions,  the 
fish  is  serA^ed  as  au  court  houillon^  and  simmered  in  a small  quan- 
tity of  water  Avith  a seasoning  of  savory  herbs,  it  is  a la  honne  eau , 
A good  recipe  for  Court  Bouillon^  is  the  folloAving : Four 
quarts  Avater,  one  onion,  one  slice  carrot,  tAvo  cloves,  tAVo  tablespoons 
salt,  one  of  Aunegar,  one  teaspoon  pepper,  juice  of  half  a lemon  and 
a bunch  sAA^eet  herbs.  Tie  the  onion,  carrot,  cloA^es  and  herbs  in  a 
piece  of  muslin  and  put  in  the  Avater  AAuth  the  other  ingredients. 
CoA'er  and  boil  sloAvly  an  hour,  then  put  in  the  fish  and  boil 
directed.  This  is  also  called  Marinade^  and  a more  highly  flavore.\t 
preparation  is  made  thus  : Cut  fine. two  carrots,  three  onions,. hal  ’ 
a dozen  shallots,  a cloA^e  of  garlic,  and  put  them  into  a stewpan  with 
a piece  of  butter,  a bunch  of  parsley,  a little  celery,  and  a bunch  of 
SAA^eet  herbs  ; fry  the  whole  for  a few  minutes,  then  add,  very  gradu- 
ally, tAvo  quarts  Avater,  pint  Aunegar,  one  or  tAAm  tablespoons  salt,  tAvo 
dozen  peppercorns,  same  of  allspice,  and  tAvo  cloves.  Simmer  the 
whole  together  one  and  a half  hours,  strain  the  liquor,  and  put  it  by 
for  use,  Avhen  fish  is  to  be  boiled ; if  carefully  strained  after  the 
fish  has  been  taken  out  it  may  be  used  several  times,  adding  a little 
Avater  each  time.  Fish  dressed  in  it  should  simmer  very  gently,  or 
rather  steAV  than  boil,  as  it  affords  to  mackerel,  fresh  herrings,  perch, 
roach,  and  any  of  the  small  river  fish,  the  advantage  of  dissolving, 
or  so  thoroughly  softening  their  bones  as  to  render  them,  more  agree- 
able in  eating.  Large  fish  should  be  cut  into  steaks  before  being 
marinaded.  Instead  of  the  vinegar  a cup  each  of  essence  of  an- 


254 


FISH. 


chovies,  and  catsup  may  be  used ; or  fennel,  chives,  thyme,  and 
hay  leaves,  may  be  added.  Or,  choose  a kettle  that  will  suit  the  size 
of  the  fish,  into  which  put  the  above  proportions  of  water  and 
dnegar  with  a piece  of  butter,  some  fried  onions  and  carrots,  pep- 
per, salt,  two  or  three  cloves,  and  a bunch  of  sweet  herbs  (first  fry- 
ing all  in  a little  butter),  using  less  of  each  than  given  above  if  not 
liked  so  highly  flavored ; simmer  fifteen  minutes,  skim  or  strain,  let 
it  become  cold,  then  put  in  the  fish,  first  rubbing  it  with  lemon  juice 
and  salt,  and  let  it  simmer  until  done.  Serve  with  anchovy  sauce 
and  juice  of  lemon,  or  on  a napkin  surrounded  with  parsley,  with  a 
caper  or  pickle  sauce,  or  any  kind  of  fish  sauce,  in  a sauce-boat. 
The  fresh-water  fish,  or  those  which  have  no  decided  flavor,  are 
much  better  marinaded  or  boiled  au  court  houillon.  The  sea-fish,  or 
such  as  have  a pronounced  flavor,  can  be  boiled  in  simple  salted  and 
acidulated  water,  and  another  plain  stock  for  fish  is  to  two  quarts 
cold  water  put  half  a cup  of  vinegar,  tablespoon  salt,  a teaspoon 
each  whole  cloves ‘and  whole  peppers,  a bay  leaf  and  half  a lemon 
sliced  if  wished.  Fish  of  the  shape  of  herrings  should,  for  boiling, 
be  curled  round  with  their  tails  skewered  in  their  mouths  ; small  fish, 
such  as  smelts,  etc.,  should  be  run  five  or  six  on  a skewer  through 
their  eyes.  Many  prefer  to  serve  boiled  fish  upon  a napkin,  rather 
than  with  a sauce  poured  over  it ; and  a plain  white  sauce  is  thought 
to  be  better  with  boiled  salmon  than  anything  less  simple,  serving 
cucumbers  or  melon  in  slices  apart ; silver  eels  may  have  a sauce 
over  them,  and  salt  cod,  boiled,  is  often  served  masked  with  mashed 
parsnips  or  potatoes.  With  bass,  blue-fish  and  carp,  serve  anchovy, 
caper,  or  tomato  sauce.  Sturgeon  and  some  other  fish  are  better 
if  just  basted  and  frothed  before  the  fire  after  being  boiled;  cod’s 
head  and  shoulders  are  much  better  when  thus  treated.  Pike, 
boiled,  can  be  first  stuffed  with  forcemeat,  but  it  is  best  when 
baked.  Fennel  should  be  boiled  with  mackerel,  and  gooseberry 
sauce  served  with  it ; grated  loaf-sugar  is  generally  offered  with 
mackerel,  and  mint  is  also  eaten  with  it.  MustarTl  is  served  with 
boiled  cod,  smelts,  herrings,  and  perch.  Drawn  butter  sauce  with 
lemon  juice  or  eggs  is  also  a favorite  accompg^niment  with  all  boiled 
fish. 


It  is  quite  appropriate  to  serve  a boiled  middle  cut  of  salmon  or 
any  large  fish  at  a dinner;  it  is  the  best  cut, 
easier  and  cheaper  to  serve,  and  one  never  cares 
to  supply  more  than  is  necessary.  This  cut  is 
better  slowly  boiled,  also,  in  the  acidulated  salted 
water. 


Boiled  Salmon. 


Broiled  Fish. — Fish  weighing  between  half  a pound  and  four 
pounds  are  nice  for  broiling,  though  about  three  pounds  and  a half 
is  the  best  size.  The  small  fish  should  be  fried  whole,  and  the 
larger  ones  scored,  or  split  down  the  back.  See  that  the  fish  is 


FISH. 


25u 


properly  cleaned,  wipe  dry  with  a cloth,  and  either  rub  it  with  vin- 
egar or  dredge  it  with  tlonr,  then  dip  it  into  olive  oil,  or  egg  and 
bread-crumbs  ; or  roll  it  well  in  chopped  herl)S  ; though  many  simpl  f 
rub  it  over  with  butter.  Always  use  a double  broiler,  if  possible, 
and  before  putting  the  fish  into  it,  heat 
hot,  and  rub  over  with  butter  to  prevent 
the  fish  sticking.  The  size  or  thickness 
of  the  fish  will  have  to  be  the  guide  in 
broiling ; if  the  fish  is  small  it  will  re- 
quire a clear,  hot  fire ; if  large  the  fire 
must  be  moderate,  otherwise  the  outside 
of  the  fish  will  be  burned  before  the 
inside  is  cooked.  Some  brown  the  fish  handsomely  over  the  coals 
and  then  put  it  in  the  oven  to  finish  cooking ; when  the  fish  is 
very  thick,  or  broiled  with  a stuffing,  as  mackerel  sometimes  is,  this 
is  a good  plan.  But  when  fish  are  split  they  are  very  easily  broiled 
over  the  fire.  If  the  fish  is  taken  from  the  broiler  to  be  put  into  the 
oven  it  should  be  slipped  on  to  a tin  sheet  that  it  may  slide  easih- 
into  the  platter  when  served,  or  nothing  so  mars  a dish  of  fish  as  to 
have  it  come  to  the  table  broken.  In  broiling,  the  inside  should  be 
exposed  to  the  fire  first,  and  then  the  skin.  Great  care  must  be 
taken  that  the  skin  does  not  burn.  To  turn  the  fish  when  broiling 
on  a gridiron,  separate  carefully  with  a knife  any  part  of  it  that 
sticks  to  the  iron,  then,  holding  a jilatter  over  the  fish  with  one 
hand,  turn  the  gridiron  over  with  the  other,  leaving  the  fish  on  the 
platter,  from  which  it  can  be  easily  turned  back  to  the  gridiron  to 
finish  cooking.  Mackerel  will  broil  in  from  twelve  to  twenty  min- 
utes, young  cod  (also  called  scrod)  in  from  twenty  to  thirty  min- 
utes, blue-fish  in  from  twenty  to  thirty  minutes,  salmon  in 
from  twelve  to  twenty  minutes,  and  white-fish,  bass,  mul- 
let, etc.,  in  about  eighteen  minutes.  As  soon  as  the  fish  is  done, 
sprinkle  with  pepper  and  salt,  spread  butter  all  over  it  with  a knife 
and  set  in  oven  a moment  that  the  butter  may  soak  into  the  fish 
Some  put  over  the  fish  a few  drops  lemon  juice  and  a little  chopped 
parsley  before  spreading  with  butter,  and  this  is  especially  nice  for 
shad,  which  is  much  more  delicious  broiled  than  cooked  in  any 
other  way.  Soaking  fish  in  a marinade  before  broiling  is  considered 
a great  improvement,  and  the  French  soak  it  in  olive  oil  made 
savory  with  spices.  When  broiling  the  more  delicate  kinds  of  fish 
the  gridiron  or  broiler  may  be  strewed  with  sprigs  of  fresh  aromatic 
herbs,  oiling  the  fish  well  before  putting  it  to  broil,  and  cooking 
very  slowly.  Smoked  salmon  should  be  merely  heated  through. 
When  wanted  to  broil  quickly,  fish  may  be  first  parboiled,  but  the 
skin  will  doubtless  be  more  or  less  broken  and  its  appearance  thus 
marred.  Broiled  fish  may  be  either  masked  with  a sauce — tartare, 
tomato,  curry  or  any  sharp  sauce — or  served  upon  a puree  of  sorrel, 
tomatoes,  or  beans,  or  upon  an  oil  or  caper  sauce.  When  possible, 


Double  Broiler. 


256 


FISH. 


garnish  with  parsley,  celery  or  lettuce.  The  salmon,  trout,  perch, 
pickerel,  shad,  mackerel,  black-fish,  blue-fish,  haddock,  white  and 
flat-fish,  are  all  very  excellent  broiled,  as  are  also  cutlets  of  any 
kind  of  fish,  but  the  Spanish  mackerel,  from  the  Gulf,  and  pompano 
are  especially  prized  for  cooking  in  this  manner.  The  California 
salmon  is  the  most  highly  esteemed  of  its  kind  for  many  uses,  and 
the  cutlets  are  very  nice  broiled. 

Collared  Fish. — A side  of  salmon,  a fine  mackerel  or  eel,  or  a 
piece  of  sturgeon  large  enough  for  a handsome  roll  will  make  a good 
collar.  Split  the  fish,  remove  the  head,  tail  and  fins  and  bone  care- 
fully, but  do  not  skin  it  (when  an  eel  is  used  it  must  of  course  be 
skinned),  wipe  dry,  rub  well  on  both  sides  with  spices,  salt  and  very 
finely  shred  herbs,  roll  as  tightly  as  possible,  tie  securely  with  broacl 
tape  and  put  a cloth  round  it ; place  it  in  boiling  hot  vinegar  and 
water — equal  parts  of  each — seasoned  with  bruised  bay  leaves,  salt 
and  a bunch  of  sweet  herbs ; simmer  very  slowly  until  the  fish  is 
done.  A larger  sized  collar  of  sturgeon  or  salmon  requires  two 
hours’  simmering  to  cook  it  well;  eel  or  mackerel  will  be  done  in 
fifteen  or  twenty  minutes.  Take  it  up,  reduce  the  liquor  by  boiling, 
strain,  and  wlien  cold  pour  over  the  fish  and  set  away  until  wanted, 
dlie  cloth  need  not  be  removed  until  just  before  the  fish  is  served. 
If  to  be  served  hot,  the  fish  may  be  tied  only  with  tape  and  baked ; 
garnish  with  sprigs  of  fresh  fennel  or  grated  horseradish.  Serve 
wliole  or  sliced.  When  boiled,  the  bones,  head,  etc.,  may  be  tied  in 
a muslin  bag  and  boiled  in  the  liquor  with  the  fish  to  give  it  a richer 
flavor.  Minced  oysters,  anchovies  or  lobster,  mixed  with  raw  yolk 
of  egg,  may  be  spread  inside  salmon  or  sturgeon  before  rolling  with 
the  spices.  If  kept  long  the  liquor  of  the  fish  must  be  drained  off 
and  l:)oiled  up  from  time  to  time,  and  when  cold  poured  again  over 
the  fish. 

Crimped  Fish. — The  fish  must  be  as  fresh  as  possible ; cut  into 
nice  shaped  slices  about  two  inches  thick,  and  put  into  a saucepan 
of  salted  water  that  has  been  brought  to  a boil,  checking  with  a lit- 
tle cold  water  when  the  fish  is  put  in;  take  out  the  fish  in  a few* 
minutes,  carefully  place  on  a cloth  to  drain,  dredge  with  flour  or 
wash  over  with  yolk  of  egg  and  broil  slowly  over  a clear  fire.  Serve 
with  anchovy,  oyster,  or  caper  sauce  in  the  dish.  Salmon,  cod,  shad, 
rock-fish,  bass  and  halibut  are  all  excellent  crimped. 

Curried  Fish. — Salmon,  cod,  eels,  flounders  and  flat-fish  gener- 
ally, may  be  made  into  curries,  and  must  first  be  carefully  boned, 
then  fried  and  a boiling  gravy  seasoned  with  curry  powder  poured 
over  them ; when  the  v/hole  boils  remove  from  fire  and  add  some 
bits  of  butter  and  beaten  yolk  of  egg.  A little  chopped  onion  fried 
in  butter  is  often  used  in  curries,  and  oysters  are  always  a nice  ad- 
dition. The  French  method  of  currying  fish’  is  to  first  make  some 


FISH. 


257 


butter  hot  in  a pan  and  add  the  curry  powder ; the  fish  is  then  put 
in  (either  raw  or  cold),  and  when  done  add  gravy  mixed  with  the 
well-beaten  jmlk  of  an  egg ; when  this  sauce  becomes  smooth  and 
thick  serve  all  together  with  a rim  of  tomatoes.  Eels  may  be  cut 
into  lengths  and  are  nicer  to  first  slowly  simmer  in  gravy.  Some 
simmer  the  curry  pov,xler  slowly  in  the  gravy  two  hours  on  the  day 
before  using,  to  take  olf  the  rawness  of  the  turmeric.  The  curry  ih 
self  should  be  made  only  a short  time  before  it  is  wanted  for  the 
table  or  the  flavor  will  be  impaired.  Cucumber  and  melon  are  often 
introduced  in  this  dish,  as  well  as  curds,  cream,  rice,  garlic,  etc. 

Deviled  Fish. — Take  any  kind  of  small  fish,  or  cutlets  of  fish 
(raw,  or  previously  cooked  and  grown  cold),  soak  them  half  an 
hour  in  either  soy.  Chili  vinegar,  catsup,  or  any  stock  sauce ; drain 
and  broil  them,  and  serve  with  a,  horseradish,  chutney,  piquant,  or 
Fiustard  sauce.  The  fish  may  be  rolled  in  curry  powder,  if  preferred. 

Dried  Fish. — Fish  may  be  simply  salted  well  and  dried  in  the 
air,  afterwards  smoking  them  if  liked,  or  rubbed  over  with  pepper 
and  salt  and  cured  by  hanging  in  a dry  place  indoors,  which  is 
generally  thought  the  better  v ay.  Codfish  is  most  frequently  plain- 
ly salted,  without  being  spiced  or  smoked.  Hake  is  merely  dried  by 
e 'cposure  to  the  air,  without  having  been  previously  salted.  Small 
li  sh  only  require  to  remain  twenty-four  hours  in  a sufficient  quantity 
of  salt.  Most  others  should  be  split  open,  and  the  backbone  re- 
moved ; sprinkle  with  salt,  and  hang  up  to  drain  for  a da}^  and  a night 
then  rub  Vv'ith  a little  salt,  moist  sugar  (and  pepper  or  spices,  if 
liked),  and  at  the  end  of  twenty-four  hours  put  them  to  dry,  and 
afterwards  slowly  smoke  them.  A great  deal  depends  upon  the 
pains  bestowed  upon  it  to  cure  fish  at  home  successfully.  Beside 
those  above  mentioned,  mackerel,  haddock,  herrings,  salmon,  pike 
•end  trout  will  be  found  very  nice  thus  cured. 

Fricasseed  Fish. — The  fish  to  be  fricasseed  should  be  first 
.ossed  (lightly  fried)  in  oil  or  dripping  until  about  half  done,  then 
slowly  stewed  in  gravy  rendered  savory  with  spices,  shred  onion,  a 
bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  et^.,  flavored  with  vinegar  or  lemon  juice. 
AViien  the  fish  is  sufficiently  dressed,  thicken  the  sauce  with  yolk  of 
egg,  and  serve  ail  together  in  a dish  decorated  with  sliced  lemon  or 
orange.  Less  flavoring  is  needed  for  a fricassee  than  for  a stew  on 
account  of  the  fish  having  gained  greater  savoriness  through  being 
partially  fi-icd.  La.rge  fish  should  always  be  boned  and,  if  neces- 
sary, skinned,  then  fricasseed  in  small  slices  or  rolls.  IMinced  an- 
chovies, as  well  as  oysters,  are  an  admirable  addition.  A fricassee 
should  be  sent  to  tlie  table  as  hot  as  possible ; when  the  fish  is 
sufficiently  dressed  it  sLould  be  served,  instead  of  allowing  it  to 
sodden  in  the  saucepan.  Flat-fish,  perch,  cod-sounds,  eels,  salmon, 
cat-fish,  and  most  kinds  of  river  and  pond  fish  are  thus  fricasseed. 

17 


258 


FISH. 


For  a Fricassee  of  Cod^  wash  and  cut  two  pounds  of  fresh  codfish 
in  two-inch  squares,  removing  skin  and  hones ; put  over  the  fire  in 
sufficient  cold  water  to  cover  it  an  inch,  with  one  teaspoon  salt,  and 
let  it  slowly  approach  the  boiling  point ; then  take  it  from  the  water 
with  a skimmer,  lay  it  on  a warm  dish,  cover  it  with  a towel  wet  in 
warm  water,  and  place  it  where  it  will  keep  warm  without  drying. 
Strain  the  water  in  wich  the  fish  was  boiled  and  use  one  pint  of  it 
together  with  one  tablespoon  each  butter  and  flour  to  make  a white 
sauce,  first  melting  together  the  butter  and  flour,  and  then  gradually 
stirring  in  the  water ; season  the  sauce  to  taste  with  salt  and  pepper, 
put  the  fish  into  it  and  heat  until  the  flakes  begin  to  separate ; then 
remove  the  saucepan  from  the  fire,  stir  in  the  beaten  yolk  of  one  egg 
and  a tablespoon  vinegar ; if  parsley  is  obtainable,  add  one  tablespoon 
chopped  fine ; serve  as  soon  as  done.  Toast  or  two  inch  slices  of 
fried  bread  may  accoinj^any  the  dish.  Three  tablespoons  of  salad 
oil  may  be  added  to  the  sauee,  a few  drops  at  a time,  with  the 
vinegar,  if  desired.  Halibut  and  bass  are  excellent  when  cooked  in 
this  way. 

Fried  Fish. — The  smaller  kinds  of  fish,  as  brook  trout,  perch, 
sun-fish,  and  smelts,  usually  called  pan-fish,  and  the  small  bass  and 
pickerel,  are  best  for  frying,  either  by  “tossing”  or  sauteing  in  a 
small  quantity  of  fat  or  oil  in  a pan  (commonly  called  frying),  or  by 
immersing  in  hot  fat  or  oil  like  doughnuts,  the  latter  being  generally 
considered  the  better  method.  Hot  lard,  bPef  drippings,  olive  oil, 
or  American  cooking  oil  may  all  be  used  for  frying  fish,  though  many 
prefer  tlie  oils,  chiefly  because  of  the  difficulty  of  procuring  pure 
lard  or  fat,  and  as  the  oil  can  be  clarified  and  used  over  and  over 
again  it  is  quite  as  economical  as  lard  or  dripping.  The  secret  of 
frying  to  perfection  Ipv  immersing  is  to  have  the  lard  or  oil  so  deep 
that  it  entirely  covers  the  fish  and  so  hot  as  instantly  to  form  a 
crust  over  the  entire  surface.  If  the  fish  is  large  and  further  cook- 
ing is  necessary,  the  heat  must  be  reduced.  Test  the  fat  (as  directed 
in  Fritters)  before  putting  in  the  fish,  for  if  it  is  not  hot  enough  the 
fish  will  absorb  it  and  thus  become  greasy  and  unwholesome.  The 
fish-kettie  heretofore  illustrated  may  be  used  for  frying  fish,  or  one 
may  be  ordered  of  any  tinner.  Have  an  oval  pan  made  of  tin  and 
an  oval  basket  or  plate  fitting  into  it,  made  with  a heavy  wire  edge 
and  fine  wires  running  across  half  an  inch  apart ; or  have  it  made  of 
coarse  wire  cloth  bound  with  tin,  and  at  each  end  there  must  be  a 
long  wire  loop  for  a handle.  A fish  fried  in  this  is  very  easily  taken 
up ; lift  the  frame  from  the  kettle,  let  it  stand  for  a moment  across 
the  kettle  that  the  lard  may  drip,  loosen  from  the  frame  with  a knife 
and  slide  it  ofl*  on  the  hot  platter.  If  a fish-kettle  cannot  be  had  a 
wire  basket  in  which  the  fisli  is  placed  and  lowered  into  the  fat  is  a 
great  convenience.  Fish  for  frying  should  have  the  heads  cut  off, 
be  thoroughly  cleaned  and  vvfiped  perfectly  dry,  then  rub  over  with 


259 


flour,  or  meal,  or  a mixture  O'^  each,  or  dip  once  or  twice  into 
beaten  egg  and  bread-crumb'j  o7  a batter.  When  browned  on  one 
side,  turn,  and  when  done  drain  quite  dry,  sprinkle  with  salt  and 
send  to  table  on  a nankin  folded  in  a dish  nicely  garnished,  serving 
a sauce  apart,  ifineiy  shred  herbs  may  be  sprinkled  over  some 
kinds  of  fish,  as  eels  and  mackerel,  before  frying,  but  flat-fish  gen- 
erally should  be  done  with  bread-crumbs  and  egg  and  sent  to  table 
a clear,  golden  yellow.  Chopped  onions  are  fried  and  served  with 
fresh  herrings.  If  a sufficient  quantity  of  fat  is  used  a good  thick 
fish  Avill  not  require  more  than  ten  minutes’  fryAUg,  and  smelts  and 
other  such  small  fish  are  done  in  five  minutes  or  less.  Smelts, 
gudgeons  and  oysters  are  often  fried  to  use  as  a garnish  with  other 
fish.  The  larger  fish  may  be  cut  into  cutlets  or  steaks,  rolled  in 
beaten  egg  and  cracker  or  bread-crumbs  and  fried  in  this  manner. 
Some  dip  fish  in  milk  before  breading  them,  then  into  the  crumbs, 
then  into  beaten  egg  and  again  in  the  crumbs,  while  others  roll  them 
first  in  the  crumbs,  and  finish  same.  Prepare  them  in  this  manner 
for  sauteing  or  frying  in  a pan,  and  use  a thick-bottomed  pan,  with 
lard  or  oil  enough  to  keep  them  from  scorching  or  sticking  to  the 
bottom  of  pan.  Never  use  butter  as  it  takes  out  the  sweetness  and 
gives  a bad  color.  If  the  fish  is  large  remove  the  backbone  and 
cut  crosswise  into  fiv^e  or  six  pieces.  Put  into  the  pan  skin  side 
uppermost  and  fry  slowly ; when  brown  on  one  side  turn  over  care- 
fully and  brown  the  other.  When  done  (in  about  an  hour)  remove  to 
hot  platter  and  serve  at  once.  The  roe  and  backbone,  when  pre- 
viously removed,  may  be  cut  up  and  fried  with  the  other  pieces. 
Salt  pork  is  sometimes  put  into  the  pan  with  the  fish,  or  fried  first, 
and  yields  sufficient  fat  for  frying  the  fish,  and  the  slices  of  ])ork 
may  be  served  as  a garnish  for  the  fish.  Fish  is  perhaps  more  often 
fried  or  sauted  thus  in  a pan  than  by  immersing  in  hot  frd,  but  the 
latter  is  much  the  nicer  method,  as  the  fish  is  cooked  more  evenly 
and  its  shajie  is  better  preserved,  though  some  think  them  more 
savory  when  sauted,  ^els  for  frying  should  be  skewered  to  foian  a 
circle.  Large  fish  may  be  first  slightly  fried  and  afterwards  stewed 
in  a gravy  or  marinade.  All  the  best  known  varieties  of  fish  are 
excellent  fried.  Serve  with  tomato  or  any  highly  flavored  sauce  or 
slices  of  lemon. 

Pickled  Fish. — Fish  of  a rich  oily  nature  is  principally  used  for 
pickling,  as  the  dry-fleshed  kinds  do  not  answer  so  well.  Smelts, 
well  rubbed  with  salt  and  powdered  spice,  may  be  packed  in  ajar, 
and  boiling  hot  vinegar  poured  over  them.  The  ordinary  method 
practised  in  pickling  salmon,  shad,  herrings,  mackerel,  etc.,  is  to 
boil  them  nicely  in  a small  quantity  of  salted  water,  to  which  some 
add  onions ; take  them  up,  properly  spice  enough  vinegar,  add  to  it 
the  liquor  (strained)  in  which  the  fish  were  boiled,  and  some  bruised 
bay  leaves,  which  are  an  indispensable  addition,  give  it  a boil  up, 


260 


FISH. 


and  when  this  and  the  fish  are  cold  pour  it  over  the  latter.  If  the 
fish  are  intended  to  be  kept  for  any  length  of  time,  vinegar  and 
spices  alone  may  be  used.  In  Europe,  fish  of  any  kind  is  tossed  in 
oil,  and  when  cold,  covered  with  strong  vinegar,  highly  spiced; 
sometimes  this  method  is  reversed  by  boiling  the  fish  in  vinegar, 
and  vrhen  drained  and  cold  adding  spices  and  pouring  olive  oil  upon 
it ; red  and  green  pepper  should  be  added  to  the  fish,  as  they  give 
flavor  to  the  pickle.  Mackerel  may  be  split  open  and  boned,  or  cut 
into  small  slices  ; salmon  and  shad  should  be  pickled  in  handsome- 
sized pieces.  Scraped  horseradish,  oil,  and  pounded  loaf  sugar  are  to 
be  served  with  pickled  fish.  For  an  Italian  pickle,  slice  any  kind  of 
fish ; dip  it  in  yolk  of  egg,  fry  it — or  rather  boil  it — in  oil ; when 
cold,  rub  it  over  with  pounded  spices  ; put  it  inio  jars  and  pour  over 
it  cold  vinegar  seasoned  with  shallot,  garlic  and  saffron.  This  pickle 
keeps  good  a year  at  least. 

Potted  Fish. — Fish  may  be  potted  whole,  in  slices,  or  pounded 
to  a paste.  Smelts  may  be  done  whole.  Cut  off*  the  heads,  tails  and 
fins  of  trout  for  potting,  wipe,  but  not  wash,  split  open  and  bom> 
them.  Remove  only  the  heads  from  shad,  herring,  and  mackerel, 
and  when  very  large  cut  each  fish  into  three  or  four  pieces.  Salmon 
may  be  potted  in  any  sized  slices.  Having  prepared  the  fish,  season 
well  with  salt,  pepper,  powdered  bay  leaves,  and  a little  nutmeg, 
mace  and  cloves ; then  pack  it  in  pots  with  or  without  butter,  and 
bake  as  long  as  the  size  requires ; when  done  drain  off*  the  grease  or 
gravy  and  when  the  fish  is  cold  pound  in  a mortar  to  a paste  and 
pour  clarified  butter  over,  or  the  butter  may  be  poured  on  without 
pounding  the  fisli ; oil  or  vinegar  may  be  added  to  the  fish  before  it 
is  baked,  afterwards  poured  off  and  fresh  used  to  put  over  the  fish 
for  keeping  it.  After  putting  in  the  pots  cover  closely  to  exclude 
the  air,  or  the  butter  will  become  rancid  and  the  fish  spoil.  Some 
prefer  to  pack  the  fish  and  seasoning  in  layers,  and  for  this  the  fol- 
lowing will  be  found  an  excellent  recipe  : For  five  pounds  fish  take 
three  ounces  salt,  two  each  of  ground  black  pepper  and  cinnamon, 
one  of  allspice,  and  a half  ounce  cloves ; cut  fish  in  slices,  or  some 
pack  whole,  and  place  in  the  jar  in  which  it  is  to  he  cooked,  first  a 
layer  o fish,  then  the  spices,  salt,  and  bits  of  butter  sprinkled  on, 
repeating  till  done.  Fill  the  jar  with  equal  parts  vinegar  and  Vvater, 
cover  closely  with  a cloth  well  floured,  or  a piece  of  dough,  on  top 
so  that  no  steam  an  escape,  and  bake  six  hours.  Let  it  remain  in 
jar  until  cold,  cut  in  slices,  and  serve  for  tea.  Fish  so  potted  will 
keep  a long  time,  if  always  immersed  in  the  liquor  and  kept  closely 
covered  ; and  the  very  bones  become  eatable.  It  affords  a conven- 
ient resource  in  an  emergency,  for  a few  pieces  of  the  fish  can  be 
taken  from  the  pot,  laid  on  a small  dish,  a little  of  the  liquor  poured 
over  them,  and  served  garnished  with  sprigs  of  parsley.  What  is 
left  can  be  returned  to  the  pot.  A nice  spice  to  be  used  in  potting 


FISH. 


261 


meats  is  composed  of  the  following  ingredients  thoroughly  mixed  : 
One  ounce  each  ground  cloves,  pulverized  mace,  Jamaica  pepper, 
and  grated  lemon-rind,  one-fourth  ounce  cayenne,  one  grated 
nutmeg.  Besides  the  fish  already  mentioned,  perch,  pike  and  eels 
are  excellent  potted.  Salmon  should  be  skinned  for  potting  and  is 
first  baked  in  slices  in  a pan  with  butter,  seasoned  with  mace,  cloves, 
whole  peppers  and  bay  leaves,  and  when  done  drained  from  the 
gravy  and  potted  with  clarified  butter  over  the  top. 

Salted  Fish. — Fish  intended  for  salting  should  never  be  washed 
or  wet.  The  larger  kinds  of  fish  should  be  split  open,  and  the  heads 
and  intestines  of  the  others  removed,  first  properly  scraping  them ; 
then  pack  in  a jiickle-tub,  with  finely-powdered  salt  between  each 
layer ; the  tub  containing  them  must  be  kept  full,  and  the  fish  well 
covered  on  the  top  with  salt.  The  proportion  of  salt  should  be  one- 
sixth  the  weight  of  the  fish.  If  intended  . or  drjdng,  the  fish  should 
remain  in  the  salt  from  twenty-four  hours  to  eight  days,  according 
to  size.  Herrings  are  only  laid  in  salt  and  a little  saltpetre  for 
twelve  hours,  and  then  smoked  for  a day  and  a night.  The  French 
way  is  to  split  open  mackerel  haddock,  etc  , but  only  to  draw  and 
divest  herrings  of  their  heads.  They  are  then  placed  in  a pan,  with 
a small  quantity  of  water,  and  a handful  or  two  of  salt ; at  the  end 
of  a few  hours  they  are  drained  and  wiped  dry,  and  salted  with  a 
mixture  of  four  parts  each  of  salt  and  bay  salt,  and  one  part  each  of 
saltpetre  and  loaf-sugar  in  powder ; keep  them  well-covered  for  three 
months  before  using  them.  Large  cod  may  be  opened  and  laid  upon 
a stone  or  brick  floor  and  occasionally  sprinkled  with  fresh  salt  un- 
til sufficiently  cured ; then  dry  by  exposure  to  a current  of  air» 

’ Shad  and  bass  are  also  salted  and  whenever  too  great  a quantity  of 
any  kind  of  fresh  fish  is  on  Hand  it  may  be  preserved  by  salting. 
An  easy  way  to  keep  fish  a short  dme  is  to  put  it  in  salted  water  or 
brine  that  has  served  for  beef  or  oacon,  and  when  wanted  wipe  dry, 
pepper  and  devil  it,  or  cook  in  any  manner,  when  it  will  be  greatly 
relished.  The  following  is  a good  recipe  for  Salted  Herrimg:  Mix 
half  peck  each  fine  and  rock  salt ; take  one  hundred  and  seventy- 
five  herring,  put  them  loosely  in  layers  with  salt  between,  and  after 
four  days,  drain  well  and  repack  in  close  layers  on  their  backs,  cover- 
ing each  layer  with  a mixture  of  half  peck  each  fine  and  rock  salt, 
quarter  pound  brown  sugar,  three  quarters  ounce  saltpetre.  Leave 
several  months  till  salt  takes  effect.  These  are  in  season  in  Febru- 
ary, March  and  April. 

Scalloped  Fish. — Boil  a cup  oyster  liquor,  or  milk,  thicken 
with  a little  flour  or  corn-starch,  add  two  tablespoons  butter,  a little 
chopped  parsley  and  pepper  and  salt  to  taste  and  let  cool ; put  a 
handful  fine  bread-crumbs  on  bottom  of  buttered  baking  dish  and 
cover  with  above  sauce ; then  ])iit  in  a layer  of  cold  boiled  cod  or 
other  fish  minced  fine ; have  three  hard-boiled  eggs  chopped  fine, 


FISH. 


*^62 


and  put  a layer  of  the  egg  next,  then  more  sauce,  and  so  on,  leav- 
ing out  bread-crumbs  until  dish  is  full,  when  put  a thick  layer  of 
crumbs  over  the  top,  plentifully  strewn  with  butter.  Cover  and 
bake  until  hot  through,  then  remove  cover  and  brown.  Or  put  the 
remains  of  any  cold  fish,  carefully  picked  from  the  bones,  into  a 
stewpan  with  a half  pint  cream,  half  tablespoon  anchovy  sauce, 
half  teaspoon  each  made  mustard  and  walnut  catsup,  and  pepper 
and  salt  to  taste.  Set  over  fire  to  heat  hot,  stirring  occasionally, 
but  do  not  let  boil ; put  into  a deep  dish  or  scallop  shells  with 
plenty  of  bread-crumbs,  place  bits  of  buttnr  on  top  and  brown  with 
the  salamander.  The  anchovy  sauce,  walnut  catsup  or  mustard 
may  be  omitted,  if  not  liked,  and  milk  with  an  egg  and 
a little  fiour  may  be  used  instead  of  the  cream.  In 
preparing  cold  fish  dishes  a little  more  butter  is  always 
ouei..  needed  than  for  fresh  fish.  For  a nice  fish  scallop  wfth 
mashed  potatoes,  take  any  cooked  fish,  boned,  and  mix  with  it  a 
white,  egg,  or  drawn  butter  sauce  seasoned  to  taste ; put  a layer 
finely  mashed  potato  in  bottom  of  porcelain  baking  dish,  put  in  the 
fish  and  cover  with  another  layer  of  potatoes.  Smooth  the  top  over 
neatly  and  bake  in  moderate  oven  twenty  minutes.  Or  form  by 
heaping  the  fish  high  in  the  center  of  first  layer  of  potatoes  and 
cover  this  pyramid  with  the  mashed  potatoes  and  hake.  Another 
very  simple  way  of  scalloping  fish  is  to  put  thin  slices  of  salmon, 
jfike  or  turbot  in  scallop  shells  or  small  tins  with  bits  of  butter  on 
top  and  bake  until  browned.  Squeeze  lemon  juice  over  and  serve. 
Cold  fish  is  nice  warmed  over  in  this  way. 

Steamed  Fish. — After  cleaning  a fish,  as  for  boiling  or  not,  in 
either  case,  place  tail  of  fish  in  its  mouth  and  secure  it,  lay  on  a plate, 
])our  over  it  a half  pint  vinegar,  seasoned  with  pepper  and  salt ; let 
stand  an  hour  in  refrigerator,  pour  off  vinegar,  and  put  in  a steamer 
over  boiling  water ; steam  twenty  minutes,  or  longer  if  the  fish  is 
very  large  (when  done  the  meat  easily  parts  from  the  bone) ; drain 
well,  and  serve  on  a napkin  garnished  with  curled  parsley.  Serve 
drawn  butter  in  a boat.  Or  when  nearly  done,  place  in  oven  for  a 
few  minutes,  baste,  brown,  and  finish  as  haked  fish.  Fish  intended 
for  baking  are  very  nice  to  be  first  steamed  about  an  hour,  and 
steaming  is  a much  better  method  of  cooking  than  boiling.  Mack- 
erel merely  steamed,  with  no  sauce,  eaten  with  vinegar,  or  oil  and 
vinegar,  is  delicious. 

Steiued  Fish. — Almost  any  kind  of  fish  are  excellent  stewed, 
except  those  of  a coarse-fleshed  nature,  like  mackerel  or  smelts  ; 
eels,  trout,  carp,  and  fresh-water  fish  generally,  are  capital  in  a stew. 
A nice  way  of  stewing  is  to  put  the  fish  in  beef  or  any  other  gravy 
that  is  rich  and  well-seasoned,  and  cook  it  very  gently  from  fifteen 
minutes  to  an  hour,  according  to  size ; add  some  vinegar  or  cider, 
thicken  the  liquor  with  yolk  of  egg,  cream,  or  butter  rubbed  in  fiour, 


FISH. 


263 


and  serve  the  fish  and  sauce  together.  The  large  kinds,  like  salmon, 
sturgeon,  cod,  etc.,  must  be  cut  in  slices ; trout  and  other  medium 
sized  fish  may  be  stewed  whole  and  served  with  a sauce  over  them. 
Silver  eels  should  be  divided  into  short  lengths.  Some  cooks  flour 
the  fish  itself  before  putting  it  into  the  gravy,  but  the  sauce  is  rarely, 
by  this  means,  so  smoothly  thickened  as  it  should  be.  A few  oys- 
ters may  be  advantageously  added  to  most  stews,  put  in  with  the 
egg  or  flour ; essence  of  anchovy,  catsup,  herbs,  or  mushrooms  may 
also  be  employed  to  increase  the  flavor,  for  stews  should  never  taste 
insipid,  but  quite  relishing  and  savory,  and  for  this  reason  spices, 
lemon,  pickle,  chutney,  tomatoes,  savory  herbs,  caviare,  or  indeed 
any  kind  of  flavoring  in  good  taste,  is  admissible.  Another  good 
recipe  for  a stew  is  the  following  : Take  six  pounds  any  kind  of 
fish,  large  or  small,  three  pints  water,  quarter  pound  pork,  or  half 
cup  butter,  two  large  onions,  three  tablespoons  flour,  salt  and  pepper 
to  taste.  Cut  heads  from  fish  and  remove  all  bones  ; put  heads  and 
bones  on  to  boil  in  the  three  pints  water  and  cook  gently  half  an 
hour ; cut  the  pork  in  slices  and  fry  brown ; slice  the  onions  and 
fry  in  the  pork  fat ; stir  the  dry  flour  into  the  onion  and  fat  and 
cook  three  minutes,  stirring  all  the  time.  Pour  over  this  the  watei 
in  which  the  bones  have  been  cooking,  'and  simmer  ten  minutes. 
Have  the  fish  cut  in  pieces  about  three  inches  square,  season  welJ. 
with  salt  and  pepper,  and  place  in  the  stew-pan ; season  the  sauce 
with  salt  and  pepper,  and  strain  on  the  fish,  cover  tight,  and  sim- 
mer twenty  minutes.  A bouquet  of  sweet  herbs  simmered  with  the 
bones  is  an  improvement.  Dish  on  a large  platter  and  garnish  with 
potato  balls  and  parsley.  The  potato  balls  are  cut  from  the  raw 
potatoes  wfith  a vegetable  scoop,  and  boiled  ten  minutes  in  salted 
■svater.  Put  them  in  little  heaps  around  the  dish.  For  a plainer 
stew,  cut  a fish  across  in  slices  an  inch  and  a half  thick,  and  sprinkle 
with  salt ; boil  two  sliced  onions  until  done,  pour  off  water,  season 
with  pepper,  add  twm  cups  hot  water  and  a little  parsley  to  the 
onions,  and  in  this  simmer  the  fish  until  thoroughly  done.  Serve 
hot.  A little  lemon  juice  or  vinegar  may  be  added.  Garnish  with 
parsley  and  sliced  lemons. 

A nice  French  Steic  is  made  as  follows  : Clean  and  wipe  dry 
any  kind  of  fish  and  cut  into  slices  two  inches  in  thickness  ; put  a 
cup  of  oil  or  butter  into  an  earthen  baking  dish ; add  chopped  pars- 
le}^  fennel,  shallot,  and  a clove  of  garlic  and  bring  to  a boil ; rub 
the  fish  in  plenty  of  spices  pounded  together  wfith  some  saffron,  and 
put  it  into  the  oil ; fry  it  for  a few^  moments  ; add  a half  pint  wuxter, 
and  stew  slowly  till  done.  Beat  together  yolks  of  txvo  eggs  with 
juice  of  a lemon  and  some  coarse  red  pepper ; pour  these  into  the 
dish,  and  when  the  sauce  is  set,  serve  all  together  in  a dish  garnished 
with  pickled  peppers. 

Fish  Balls. — Mix  a quart  mashed  potatoes  with  a cup  of  bits 
of  butter,  two  teaspoons  made  mustard  and  a half  teaspoon  salt: 


FISH 


stir  in  two  eggs  beaten  with  a tablespoon  or  two  of  cream  or  milk, 
and  add  a pint  finely  shredded  and  chopped  cold  salt  fish,  stirring 
in  a little  at  a time  until  it  is  thoroughly  mixed  Take  a heaping 
tablespoon  at  a time  and  roil  on  a floured  board,  making  with  the 
hands  into  as  perfect  balls  as  possible  until  all  made 
up.  Have  the  skillet  of  fat  hot  and  drop  in  a few 
balls  at  a time ; turn  to  brown  nicely,  take  out  with 
skimmer  and  put  on  sieve  or  colander  in  oven  to  Fish  Bans, 
drain  and  keep  hot  until  all  are  ready  to  serve.  Some  prefer  to  re- 
verse the  proportions  given  above,  using  twice  as  much  fish  as  potato. 
Freshly  baked  and  mashed  potato  is  best,  but  cold  may  be  used,  if 
carefully  re-heated,  and  any  remains  of  cold  fish  will  do.  To  make 
Dropped  Fish  Balls,  take  a pint  raw  fish,  a quart  pared  potatoes, 
(under  medium  size),  two  eggs,  butter  the  size  of  an  egg,  and  a lit- 
tle jiepper.  Pick  the  fish  very  fine,  and  measure  lightly ; put  pota- 
toes into  the  boiler,  and  fish  on  top,  cover  with  boiling  water,  and 
boil  half  an  hour.  Drain  off  water,  and  mash  fish  and  potatoes  to- 
gether until  fine  and  light ; then  add  butter  and  pepper,  and  the 
well-beaten  egg.  Have  a deep  kettle  of  hot  fat ; dip  a tablespoon  in 
it,  and  take  up  a spoonful  of  the  mixture,  being  careful  to  get  it  into 
as  good  shape  as  possible.  Drop  into  the  boiling  fat  and  cook  until 
brown,  which  should  be  in  two  minutes.  Be  careful  not  to  crowd 
the  balls,  better  not  let  them  touch,  and  be  sure  the  fat  is  hot  enough. 
The  s])Oon  should  be  dipped  in  the  fat  every  time  a spoonful  of  the 
mixture  is  taken.  These  balls  are  delicious.  A pretty  way  of  serv- 
ing fish  balls  is  to  line  the  dish  with  clean,  white  paper,  and  edge 
this  with  a frill  of  colored  tissue  paper — green  or  pink, — making  a 
very  ornamental  dish. 

Fish  Cake. — Take  the  boned  meat  of  any  fish,  beat  in  a mortar 
or  merely  mince  it  fine,  add  a chopped  onion,  some  chopped  herbs, 
nutmeg,  pepper  and  salt,  a little  catsup,  or  fish  sauce,  such  as 
essence  of  anchovies,  or  shrimps,  and  mix  it  with  either  mashed  po- 
tatoes, bread-crumbs  soaked  in  milk,  chopped  hard-boiled  eggs,  or 
})ulped  tomatoes,  in  equal  parts,  put  all  into  a buttered  dish,  pour 
some  beaten  eggs  upon  the  top,  and  bake  till  nicely  browned.  Or 
put  the  boned  fish,  with  the  head  and  fins,  into  a stewpan  with  a 
pint  water ; add  pepper  and  salt,  an  onion  and  bunch  of  herbs,  and 
stew  slowly  for  gravy  about  two  hours ; chop  the  fish  fine,  and  mix 
it  well  with  equal  quantities  bread-crumbs  and  cold  potatoes,  adding 
half  teaspoon  parsley  and  seasoning ; make  the  whole  into  a cake 
with  the  white  of  an  egg,  brush  it  over  with  egg,  cover  with  bread- 
crumbs, and  fry  a light  brown ; strain  the  gravy,  pour  it  over,  and 
stew  gently  for  fifteen  minutes,  stirring  it  carefully  once  or  twice. 
Serve  hot,  garnished  with  slices  of  lemon  and  parsley. 

To  make  White  Fish  Cakes,  pound  the  flesh  of  some  cold  fish, 
season  it  with  white  pepper,  add  a little  lemon-juice,  and  mix  all 


FISH. 


265 


with  enough  white  of  egg  to  make  it  form  a thick  batter,  fry  it  in 
small  cakes,  and  serve  garnished  with  crisp  green  parsley.  If  the 
yolks  instead  of  the  whites  of  eggs  he  used,  and  a little  curry  pow- 
der added,  the  result  will  he  nice  Yelloio  Fish  Cakes;  serve  in  a 
damask  napkin  with  grated  lemon-peel  over  them. 

Fish  Chowder. — The  best  fish  for  chowder  are  haddock  and 
striped  bass,  though  cod,  swordfish  and  all  kinds  of  whitefish  are 
excellent,  and  any  fresh  fish  may  be  used.  For  a good  chowder 
prepare  the  ingredients  by  first  slicing  a quarter  pound  pickled 
pork,  and  fry  it  in  a pot ; then  cut  five  pounds  fresh  codfish  or  had- 
dock in  slices  an  inch  thick  and  free  from  skin  and  bone ; peel  and 
cut  two  onions  in  thin  slices,  and  put  them  to  fry  with  the  pork  as 
soon  as  there  is  enough  fat  to  keep  them  from  burning ; peel  and 
slice  four  more  onions  and  keep  them  to  use  later ; peel  and  slice 
ten  potatoes  in  pieces  a quarter  of  an  inch  thick ; (boiled 
potatoes  are  sometimes  used) ; have  ready  a pound  of  sea-biscuit,  or 
Boston  crackers.  As  soon  as  the  pork  and  onions  are  brown  take 
them  from  the  pot  with  fat  in  which  they  were  fried,  leaving  about 
four  tablespoons  of  the  fat  in  the  bottom  of  the  pot ; put  into  the 
pot  a layer  of  fish,  next  a layer  of  potatoes,  then  a layer  of  the  fried 
and  raw  onions,  and  season  at  this  layer  with  a quarter  saltspoon 
ground  pepper,  and  a level  teaspoon  salt.  Repeat  the  layers  of  fish, 
potatoes  and  onions  until  one-half  the  ingredients  have  been  used ; 
then  add  one-half  the  pork  and  biscuit  or  crackers,  split,  pour- 
ing half  the  drippings  from  the  pork  on  the  crackers.  Put  the  re- 
mainder of  the  fish,  potatoes  and  onions  in  the  pot  in  layers,  add 
pepper  and  salt  as  before,  and  place  on  the  top  the  rest  of  the  crack- 
ers, pork  and  drippings.  Pour  over  all  these  ingredients  cold  water 
enough  to  reach  three  inches  above  the  top  layer,  and  place  the  pot 
over  the  fire  where  the  chowder  will  boil  gently  for  an  hour,  or  until 
the  whole  is  thoroughly  cooked;  if  it  should  burn  it  would  be 
spoiled.  At  the  end  of  an  hour  add  a half  pint  cream,  and  serve  in 
a tureen  and  soup-plates  ; eat  with  dry  sea-biscuits,  or  Boston  crack- 
ers. Another  way  of  preparing  the  fish,  if  large,  is  to  remove  the 
backbone  and  skin,  cut  in  pieces  about  three  inches  square  and  roll 
them  in  flour ; put  the  skin,  bones  and  head  into  twd  quarts  water 
and  boil  half  an  hour,  meantime  preparing  and  placing  other  in- 
gredients, with  the  fish,  in  the  kettle  as  above ; pour  over  the  top 
the  water  in  which  the  skin  and  bones  have  been  boiled  and  at  tl  io 
end  of  half  an  hour,  or  when  the  chowder  is  done,  add  a quart  milk 
or  a cup  cream  and  serve  as  above.  Some  prepare  the  fish  by  cut- 
ting into  pieces  an  inch  thick  and  two  inches  square,  and  some  boil 
the  pork  instead  of  frying,  while  others  use  it  in  raw  slices,  in  both 
cases  putting  a layer  of  the  pork  in  bottom  of  kettle  and  alternating 
with  the  layers  of  crackers,  fish  and  potatoes.  When  the  pork  is 
fried  some  prefer  to  chop  it  fine  and  use  it  in  layers,  alternating 


266 


FISH. 


with  the  other  ingredients.  Both  crackers  and  potatoes  may  be 
nsed,  as  above,  or  one  or  the  other  may  be  omitted.  Some  simply 
soak  crackers  in  water  or  milk,  or  they  may  be  split  open  and  but- 
tered, then  ‘‘crisped”  in  the  oven  if  liked,  scalded  with  sufficient  hot 
milk  and  put  in  just  before  taking  up.  Onions  may  be  put  in  raAV, 
if  chopped.  Layers  of  potatoes  in  thin  slices  are  sometimes  added, 
and  a sprinkling  of  parsley  is  liked  by  many.  Instead  of  dishing 
up  all  together,  the  fish  may  be  skimmed  out  into  the  tureen  and 
kept  hot  while  the  gravy  is  thickened  with  cracker  dust  or  flour ; 
boil  up  once,  add  chopped  parsley,  catsup  and  lemon-juice  to  taste, 
and  pour  over  the  fish. 

Fish  Croquettes. — Stir  together  in  saucepan  over  the  fire  a 
tablespoon  each  flour  and  butter,  and  add  either  water  or  milk,  making 
a thick  sauce ; let  boil,  season  with  salt  and  pepper  and  put  in 
pint  cold  flaked  fish  and  scald;  remove  from  fire  and  stir  into  it  the 
yolks  of  two  or  three  eggs.  Rub  a deep  plate  with  salad  oil, 
pour  the  mixture  in  and  let  get  thoroughly  cold.  Then  make  up 
into  cork-shaped  rolls.  Wet  the  hands  to  prevent  sticking.  Roll 
in  sifted  bread  crumbs,  dip  in  beaten  egg  then  again  in  bread- 
crumbs, and  fry  in  smoking  hot  fat,  like  doughnuts,  until  a delicate 
brown.  Take  out  with  skimmer,  and  lay  on  brown  paper  an  instant 
to  absorb  fat.  A teaspoon  onion  chopped  fine  and  fried  in  the  but- 
ter before  the  sauce  is  made,  imparts  a nice  flavor  to  the  croquettes. 
A perfect  croquette  is  semi-liquid  in  center.  Melted  butter  is  not  so 
good  as  oil  for  greasing  the  dish,  as  it  will  not  prevent  sticking. 
The  cracker  dust  should  be  rolled  and  sifted,  as  the  finer  it  is  the 
more  easily  the  croquettes  are  prepared,  and  the  nicer  they  will  fry. 
Another  way  is  to  remove  the  bones  and  chop  fine  any  Cold  fish 
— boiled,  baked  or  fried — and  mix  with  it  one-third  as  much  mashed 
potato  rubbed  to  a cream  with  a little  melted  butter ; add  a little 
white  sauce  made  of  butter  melted  in  milk,  and  thickened  with 
corn  starch  and  a beaten  egg ; season  with  chopped  parsley,  salt, 
pepper  and  anchovy  sauce  or  walnut  catsup.  Mix,  make  into  balls 
and  roll  in  beaten  egg  and  cracker  dust  and  fry  as  above.  Send  to 
table  hot  with  sliced  lemon  round  them.  An  improvement  on  the 
old  fish  balls.  Or,  put  a piece  of  butter  in  a saucepan,  dredge  in 
some  flour,  and  stir  over  the  fire  some  minced  cold  fish,  chopped 
mushrooms,  bread-crumbs,  herbs  and  shallot,  pepper  and  salt ; cook 
until  thick  and  when  cold  form  into  balls.  Egg  and  bread-crumb 
them  twice,  fry  a nice  brown  in  hot  fat,  arrange  in  pyramid  form  on 
a plate  and  garnish  with  parsley. 

Fish  Dressing — Two  cups  bread  or  cracker  crumbs,  one  of 
mashed  potatoes,  one  well-beaten  egg,  two  tablespoons  butter,  tea- 
spoon sage  and  savory,  or  a little  thyme,  and  one  dozen  chopped 
clams  or  oysters  ; moisten  with  warm  rich  new  milk,  salt  and  pepper 
to  taste.  This  dressing  is  also  good  for  duck  or  game  with  a finely 


FISH. 


2(r^ 


chopped  onion  added.  Or,  for  a plainer  dressing,  taKe  one  pint 
bread-crumbs,  two  tablespoons  melted  butter,  one  raw  egg,  peppei  , 
salt  and  one  tablespoon  celery  seed. 

Fish  Fritters. — Put  two  tablespoons  flour  in  a bowl  with  half 
saltspoon  salt,  and  stir  in  gradually  a gill  tepid  water  and  tablespoon 
salad  oil  (melted  butter  or  fat  will  do),  and  the  well-frothed  whites 
of  two  eggs.  The  batter  is  the  better  for  standing  before  used,  and 
if  made  without  the  eggs  it  must  stand  at  least  four  hours.  If  the 
fish  are  small  skin  them,  wipe  dry  wdth  a cloth  and  put  the  tail  in 
the  mouth ; roll  w-ell  in  flour — dusting  is  not  sufficient — dip  them 
into  the  batter  and  fry  in  hot  fat.  If  the  fish  are  large,  bone  and 
cut  into  neat  slices  and  dry,  flour  and  fry  them  as  small  fish.  To  make 
them  extra  nice  rub  the  fish  'first  with  powdered  spices  or  herbs, 
then  roll  in  flour  and  dip  in  batter.  Or  fritters  may  be  made  of  any 
cold  fish,  which  must  be  minced  very  fine,  or,  better,  pounded  in  a 
mortar ; add  any  seasoning  liked,  spices,  herbs,  onions,  etc.,  and 
either  stir  the  fish  in  the  batter  and  drop  by  spoonfuls  into  the  fat, 
or  carefully  place  little  heaps  of  it  on  spoonfuls  of  the  batter  and 
23ut  into  the  hot  fat  with  the  fish  uppermost. 

Fish  Pies. — Salmon,  eels,  cod,  mackerel,  trout,  herrings,  floun 
ders,  salt  fish,  and  in  short  almost  any  kind  of  fish  are  good  in  pies 
Large  fish  must  of  course  be  used  in  slices,  small  fish  must  hav^ 
heads,  tails  and  fins  removed,  bone  them  also  if  possible,  and  flat 
fish  should  be  skinned.  Line  a shallow  baking  pan  or  a pie  tin 
with  a nice  paste,  or  rich  baking  powder  crust,  leaving  a good  rim, 
and  put  the  fish  in,  covered  with  a rich,  highly-seasoned  white  sauce, 
or  with  bits  of  butter  plentifully  strewm  over,  and  season  with  salf 
pepper,  herbs  and  spices  to  taste ; when  the  white  sauce  is  not  used 
add  cream  and  fine  bread-crumbs  or  cracker  dust — and  hard-boiled 
eggs,  chopped,  if  liked — to  a pie  made  of  cold  fish,  and  many  like 
them  in  a pie  made  of  aii}^  fresh  fish.  Alternate  layers  of  oysters 
seasoned  with  nutmeg  and  chopped  parsley,  with  the  bread-crumbs 
and  fish,  make  a very  nice  Fish  Oyster  Pie^  but  should  be  put  bx 
dish  without  the  under  crust.  Cover  with  bread-crumbs,  which 
must  be  browmed,  or  wdth  a good  crust,  pinching  the  edges  well 
together  and  bake.  Some  prefer  to  cut  pie  paste  in  strips  and  lay 
in  cross-bars  over  the  top  with  a roll  of  the  paste  round  the  edge. 
A pie  of  ordinary  size  will  bake  in  a moderate  oven  in  about  an 
Lour.  If  of  cold  cooked  fish  much  less  time  will  be  required.  If 
the  fish  is  first  lightly  fried  in  butter  the  flavor  of  the  pie  will  be 
greatly  improved.  Eels  should  be  previously  stew^ed.  Salt  fish 
must  first  be  soaked,  boiled,  boned,  minced,  and  mixed  with  plenty 
of  fresh  butter;  serve  with  mustard  or  horseradish  sauce. 

Foiled  Fish  Puddings  are  made  in  much  the  same  way,  using 
a deep  baking  dish  or  bowl ; always  cover  with  the  top  crust,  and 
tie  the  dish  in  a cloth,  then  place  in  a kettle  of  hot  water.  The 


268 


FISH. 


time  required  for  boiling  will  depend  upon  the  size  of  the  pudding. 
Bruised  hay  leaves,  chopped  parsley,  onion,  pepper,  bottled  sauce, 
etc.,  are  used  for  flavoring.  Small  trout  and  perch,  with  the  addition 
of  a few  button  mushrooms,  are  exceedingly  good  in  puddings,  and 
the  fish  mentioned  for  nies  are  excellent  for  this  dish. 

Fish  Rissoles. — Cut  thin  slices  of  any  fish,  or  finely  chop  it ; 
sprinkle  with  catsup,  cayenne  pepper,  shred  lemon-peel,  or  any  other 
savory  addition  preferred.  Enclose  portions  of  the  fish  between  very 
thin  paste,  fasten  the  edges  together,  and  fry  the  rissoles,  like  dough- 
nuts, till  nicely  browned  ; they  may  be  of  any  shape — rounds,  stars, 
crescents,  or  triangles.  Serve  hot,  decorated  with  a bunch  of  crisp 
parsley.  Or  line  patty  pans  with  a nice  paste,  put  in  the  fish 
moistened  with  a little  cream  and  bake  in  oven,  for  Fish  Patties. 

Fish  Salad. — Rub  yolks  of  three  eggs  to  smooth  paste  with  a 
little  salad  oil ; add  one  teaspoon  each  salt  and  pepper,  one  table- 
spoon each  made  mustard  and  sugar,  and  lastly  six  tablespoons 
vinegar.  Beat  the  mixture  until  light  and  just  before  pouring  over 
the  fish  stir  in  lightly  the  frothed  white  of  an  egg.  Put  fish  in  dish 
with  six  tablespoons  vinegar  and  stir  half  the  dressing  in  with  it ; 
spread  remainder  over  the  top  and  lay  blanched  lettuce  leaves  around 
the  edges  to  be  eaten  with  it,  or  garnish  with  a row  of  sliced  toma- 
toes. Or  arrange  in  a dish  cold  fish  of  any  kind  and  pour  over  it  a 
mayonnaise  made  by  beating  gradually  together  raw  yolks  of  eggs, 
lemon-juice,  and  Italian  olive-oil;  season  to  taste,  and,  if  preferred, 
color  it  green  by  emph-ying  spinach-juice  or  bruised  herbs.  Propor- 
tion according  to  quantity  of  fish.  Decorate  the  dish. with  lumps  of 
clear  fish  jelly,  capers,  gherkins,  etc.  Or  pour  over  the  fish  a sauce 
made  as  follows  : Chop  together  chervil,  tarragon,  cress  and  mus- 
tard leaves ; add  pepper  and  salt,  and  mix  together  with  enough 
olive-oil  and  vinegar  to  make  it  of  the  proper  consistency  ; garnish 
the  dish  with  slices  of  lemon  and  cucumber,  placed  alternately, 
sprinkled  with  cayenne  pepper  and  minced  anchovy.  A more 
simple  salad  is  made  by  melting  some  fresh  butter  in  a stew-pan 
and  adding  lemon-juice,  pepper,  chopped  shallot  and  parsley,  and 
olive  oil;  pour  over  the  fish,  strew  crushed  bay  salt  and  grated 
lemon-rind  on  top  before  sending  to  table,  and  decorate  with  pickles. 
For  a nice  Salmon  Salad^  cut  cold  boiled  salmon  into  slices  or 
pieces  two  inches  long,  and  marinade  by  letting  stand  two  or  three 
hours  in  vinegar  well  seasoned  with  pepper,  salt,  a little  salad  oil 
and  chopped  onion  and  parsley.  Arrange  lettuce  leaves  in  bottom 
of  salad  dish  and  cover  with  Italian  dressing,  (see  Salads),  placing 
the  salmon,  bordering  with  a row  of  hard-boiled  eggs  in  slices,  in  a 
ring  on  this,  and  fill  in  center  with  mayonnaise  sauce.  Sprinkle 
capers  over  all.  Pike,  blue-fish,  flounders,  etc.,  may  be  used  in 
salads  in  same  manner.  The  fish  may  be  either  fried  or  boiled,  or 


FISH. 


269 


remnants  of  cold  used.  Slices  may  be  more  neatly  shaped  before 
cooking,  if  cold  fish  is  not  u»«d. 

Fish  Sandwiches. — Butter  thin  slices  of  bread  on  both  sides, 
la}^  thin  pieces  of  anchovy,  tunny  fish,  sardine,  smoked  salmon, 
bloater,  or  other  cured  fish  on  half ; sprinkle  some  seasoning  upon  the 
tops,  and  place  the  other  slices  of  bread  upon  them ; lay  the  sand- 
wiches in  a dish,  and  set  them  in  a ^ quick  oven  till  the  bread  is 
• nicely  browned.  The  soft  roe  of  a shad  or  herring,  mashed  and 
spread  between  bread-and-butter,  and  baked,  is  a very  savory  relish. 
Pressed  cavaire  used  in  the  same  way  is  particularly  good.  Chopped 
hard-boiled  eggs  may  be  mixed  with  the  fish  and  a little  mayonnaise 
or  any  sauce  preferred  is  a relished  addition.  Fish  Canapes  may 
also  be  classed  with  sandwiches  and  are  prepared  thus  : Cut  some 
rather  thick  slices  of  bread  ; cut  out  a round  from  the  center  of  each, 
fry  them  in  olive-oil  or  butter  and  place  upon  them  minced  anchovy, 
tunny  fish,  cured  salmon,  sardine,  or  fresh  shell-fish  of  any  kind ; 
add  seasoning,  and  some  yolk  of  hard-boiled  egg  chopped  fine,  to- 
gether with  any  chopped  pickles  or  herbs  liked. 

Fish  SouMe. — Pare  eight  good-sized  potatoes  and  boil  thirty 
minutes,  drain  the  water  from  them,  and  mash  very  fine ; then  mix 
thoroughly  vdth  a pint  finely  chopped,  cooked  salt  fish.  Add  two 
tablespoons  butter,  salt  and  pepper,  and  three-fourths  cup  hot  milk 
or  cream ; stir  into  the  mixture  two  well-beaten  eggs,  and  heap  this 
in  the  dish  in  which  it  is  to  be  served.  Place  in  the  oven  for  ten 
minutes.  Beat  the  whites  of  two  eggs  to  stiff  froth,  and  add  a quar- 
ter teaspoon  salt;  then  add  yolks.  Spread  this  over  the  dish  of 
fish  ; return  to  the  oven  to  brown,  and  serve. 

Fish  Soups. — Fish  soups  may  be  made  as  rich  or  as  thin  as 
liked;  but  about  a pound  of  fish  to  a pint  of  water,  with  the  requisite 
seasoning,  will  make  a very  good  soup.  When  stock  is  required  to 
make  anything  richer,  it  should  be  compounded  wholly  of  fish 
rather  than  from  meat.  The  liquor  in  which  a salmon  has  been 
boiled  makes  a capital  foundation  for  a fish  soup.  With  the  excep- 
tion of  the  richer  kinds,  such  as  herrings,  mackerel,  or  sprats,  almost 
any  fish  is  suitable  for  soup.  The  thickenings  used  for  fish  soups 
are  potato  flour,  fried  bread-crumbs,  cream,  butter  rolled  in  flour, 
ground  rice,  cod  roe,  lobster  spawn,  or  caviare,  beaten  to  a paste ; 
yolk  of  egg,  either  raw  or  hard-boiled,  and  pounded  smooth,  together 
with  an  admixture  of  olive  oil ; mashed  turnip,  crushed  macaroni, 
or  Italian  paste,  etc.  Eels  for  soup  should  be  simmered  until  the 
flesh  leaves  the  bones,  then  strain,  and  add  thickening  and  season- 
ings. The  following  are  all  nice  adjuncts  to  fish  soup  : Small  bits 
fried  bread  or  toast,  hard-boiled  eggs  in  .quarters,  forcemeat  balls, 
picked  shrimps,  prawn,  or  crayfish ; French  roll,  fried  brown ; slips 
of  pickled  anchovies,  little  onions,  first  lightly  fried  in  butter,  sliced 


270 


FISH. 


cucumber,  mushrooms,  or  quartered  tomatoes.  To  make  Brown  Fish 
Soupy  take  any  kind  of  fish,  cut  in  small  pieces,  roll  in  flour,  and 
brown  in  olive-oil  or  butter  in  saucepan ; cover  with  hot  water,  sea- 
son wdth  salt  and  pepper,  and  boil  slowly  for  about  fifteen  minutes. 
See  that  there  is  plenty  of  water.  One  pound  will  make  a quart  of 
soup.  A clove  of  garlic  or  any  flavoring  liked  may  be  added. 

Fish  Straws. — With  the. exception  of  mackerel  the  fish  should 
be  skinned,  and  good  fillets  (narrow  strips)  taken  lengthwise  free 
from  bone ; soak  for  two  hours  in  lemon-juice  seasoned  with  chopped 
onions,  parsley  and  pepper ; take  out,  wipe  dry,  roll  in  flour,  and 
fry  in  dripping  or  oil  until  a fine  brown ; drain  from  fat,  pile  in  a dish, 
and  serve  a tomato  sauce  round  them.  Haddock,  mackerel,  or  any 
kind  of  flat  fish  are  used  for  these  straws. 

Fish  Toast. — Bone  any  preserved  fish,  such  as  smoked  salmon, 
herring,  etc.,  season  with  cayenne  pepper,  made  mustard  (if  liked) 
and  salt ; when  it  is  a smooth  paste  add  an  equal  quantity  of  fresh 
butter,  incorporate  both  well  together,  and  spread  upon  pieces  of  hot 
toast ; put  these  for  a few  moments  into  an  oven,  and  send  to  table 
when  well  heated. 

Fish  Turbans. — Bone  and  skin  a fish,  as  directed  in  preface, 
and  after  cutting  the  entire  fish  into  fillets  or  slices,  roll  each  one  up 
and  fasten  wdth  a broom  straw.  These  little  rolls  are  called  Turbans. 
Stuff  or  not,  as  wushed,  with  highly  seasoned  soaked  bread,  and 
place  in  pan  with  butter  or  oil  in  the  bottom,  but  no  water.  Cook 
in  oven  only  long  enough  for  the  flakes  to  separate.  Dish  and  serve 
on  tartare  sauce.  Flounders  or  any  fish  may  be  used. 

Fish  toith  Parmesan  Cheese.— all  bone  and  skin  from 
some  cold  fish ; trim  it  nicely,  and  place  in  a stew'pan  over  the  fire ; 
add  sufficient  white  sauce  to  moisten  it.  Butter  a dish,  arrange  the 
fish  and  sauce  upon  it,  and  strew  it  rather  thickly  wdth  bread- 
crumbs and  grated  Parmesan  cheese  ; sprinkle  it  wdth  melted  butter, 
and  place  in  oven  to  brown.  If  the  flavor  of  Parmesan  is  too  strong 
Gruyere  cheese  may  be  used ; or  the  bread-crumbs  alone  may  be 
employed,  when  a dish  of  cold  fish,  au  gratin^  is  intended  to  be 
served. 

Fish  in  Jelly. — Make  a savory  jelly  of  calves’  feet,  (see  Jellies), 
or  by  slowly  boiling  any  kind  of  fish — flounders  or  any  flat  fish, 
whatever  is  cheapest — until  it  jellies,  wdiich  may  be  ascertained  by 
the  usual  test  for  jellies,  which  see.  Some  like  the  flavor  of  a few' 
button  onions,  a little  lemon  juice,  parsley,  and  a slight  sprinkling 
of  sugar  cooked  with  the  fish.  Strain,  and  if  not  perfectly  clear, 
clarify  according  to  directions  in  soups  and  pour  a little  into  a mold  ; 
w^hen  properly  set,  arrange  upon  it  the  previously  cooked  fish  ( smelts, 
perch,  or  other  small  fish  should  be  fried  or  baked  wdth  the  tail  in 


FISH. 


271 


the  moiuh)^  and  carefully  pour  in  more  jelly  until  the  mold  is  filled. 
AVhen  entirely  cold  and  congealed  wrap  it  in  a hot  cloth  for  a few 
monients  and  turn  out  on  an  ornamental  dish.  Serve  for  supper  or 
luncheon.  Slices  or  strips  of  cold  salmon,  turbot  or  soles,  when 
used,  may  be  cut  in  fancy  shapes  or  arranged  in  ornamental  devices 
in  the  jell}^  and  0}'sters,  cooked  just  enough  to  plump  them,  hard- 
boiled  eggs  in  rings,  or  forcemeat  balls  colored  a bright  green  with 
spinach  juice,  are  nice  additions.  A very  handsome  and  appetizing 
dish. 

Fish  with  Olives. — Peel  and  cut  a nice  tender  cucumber  into 
slices  an  inch  thick fry  them  in  olive  oil,  and  fry  in  another  pan 
some  fillets  of  fish  bound  and  rubbed  in  flour  and  white  pepper ; 
when  done,  arrange  the  slices  of  cucumber  in  a dish  and  place  the 
fillets  upon  them.  Throw  some  stoned  olives  into  the  oil  and  let 
remain  just  long  enough  to  get  hot.  Put  them  round  the  dish  and 
serve  at  once. 

Fish  with  Rice. — Carefully  bone  enough  cold  fish  to  make  a’ 
moderate-sized  dish,  add  cayenne  pepper  and  salt,  and  lightly  fry  in 
a stewpan  with  a piece  of  fresh  butter ; when  quite  hot  add  a teacup 
boiled  rice  and  chopped  yolks  of  four  hard-boiled  eggs  ; stir  well  to- 
gether until  perfectly  hot;  shape  it  upon  a dish,  and  serve  with 
pickles. 

Boiled  Bass. — Clean  a handsome  piece  of  fish,  open  it  at  the 
belly  and  remove  the  bone ; lard  the  flesh  with  slips  of  anchovy, 
truffles,  tunny  fish,  and  gherkins ; stuff  it  with  the  flesh  of  other 
hsh,  such  as  lobster,  oysters,  crayfish,  prawns,  etc ; season  and 
fasten  it  together  so  that  it  may  retain  its  original  form  as  nearly  as 
possible  ; wrap  in  a cloth  and  boil  in  richly-flavored  liquor  till  done ; 
when  cold  remove  the  covering,  lay  in  a dish,  glaze  and  decorate 
round  with  crusts  of  jelly  and  little  ornamental  heaps  of  butter. 
Salmon,  sturgeon  and  pike  can  be  cooked  as  above. 

Potted  Bloater. — Cut  off  heads  and  clean  as  many  fish  as 
wanted,  then  put  in  oven  till  cooked  through ; take  from  oven,  skin 
and  carefully  separate  meat  from  bones;  put  the  meat  in  ajar  with 
half  its  weight  of  butter  and  set  in  cool  oven  to  cook  slowly  half  an 
hour ; then  put  the  fish  into  a mortar  or  bowl,  pour  the  butter  over 
it,  taking  care  not  to  let  the  gravy  pass  too,  unless  fish  is  to  be  eaten 
soon,  as  it  v/ill  not  keep  so  well ; pound  butter  and  fish  together 
with  a pestle  or  potato  masher,  to  a paste,  add  a little  cayenne,  and 
press  into  small  pots,  pouring  melted  butter  or  mutton  suet  a third 
of  an  inch  thick  over  top  of  each.  Least  expensive  and  most 
appetizing  of  all  potted  meats,  and  makes  excellent  sandwiches. 

Boiled  Cod’s  Head  and  Shoulders. — Cleanse  the  fish  thorough- 
ly, and  rub  a little  salt  over  the  thick  part  and  inside  of  the  fish, 


272 


FISH. 


one  or  two  hours  before  dressing  it,  as  this  veiy  much  improves  the 
flavor.  Lay  the  head  and  shoulders  in  fish-kettle  or  deep  pan  with 
sufficient  cold  water  to  cover.  Be  very  particular  not  to  pour  the 
water  on  the  fish,  as  it  is  liable  to  break  it,  and  only  keep  it  just 
simmering.  If  the  water  should  boil  away,  add  a little  by  pouring 

it  in  at  the  side 
of  the  kettle, 
and  not  on  the 
fish.  Add  salt 
in  proportion 
of  three  table- 
spoons to  each 
gallon  of  wa- 
ter, and  bring 
gradually  to  a 

boil ; a little  horse-radish  and  vinegar  or  lemon  juice  added  now  inn 
prove  the  fish.  Skim  very  carefully,  draw  to  the  back  of  range,  and 
let  it  gently  simmer  till  done,  about  half  an  hour.  Take  out  and 
drain ; dish  on  a hot  napkin,  garnish  with  cut  lemon,  and  horse- 
radish and  serve  with  either  drawn  butter  or  eggs.  Prepare  Boiled 
White  Fish  in  same  manner.  For  a Cod  Pie^  carefully  remove  all 
skin  from  any  fish  that  is  left  and  pick  from  the  bones,  place  in  a pie 
dish  or  pan,  pour  over  melted  butter  to  moisten,  and  a dozen  or  so 
oysters  (or  oyster  sauce  if  left)  and  cover  with  mashed  potatoes. 
Bake  half  an  hour  and  serve  nicely  browned.  Any  cold  fish  may  be 
used  and  is  delicious  and  very  economical.  A more  elaborate  Cod 
Pie  is  made  by  laying  two  fresh  slices  large  cod  in  salt  for  four 
hours,  wash,  place  in  a dish,  season,  add  two  tablespoons  butter, 
half  pint  any  good  stock,  cover  with  pie  or  baking  powder  crust  as 
rich  as  liked  with  center  cut  out  by  a cup  and  bake  one  hour.  Make 
a sauce  of  quarter  pint  cream  or  milk,  one  tablespoon  stock,  a littlo 
thickening  of  flour  and  butter,  finely-chopped  lemon  peel  and  a 
dozen  or  so  oysters,  let  boil  once  and  pour  it  into  the  pie  at  opening 
in  center.  The  piece  cut  out  can  be  placed  upon  the  pie  and  carefully 
lifted  up  to  add  the  sauce.  Bake  a quarter  of  an  hour  and  then 
serve  in  dish  in  which  it  is  baked.  Cooked  cod  may  be  used  and 
any  fish  may  be  substituted  for  the  cod.  For  a Codhsh  Roll^  chop 
fine  cold  cooked  fish,  pour  over  it  drawn-butter  or  egg  sauce,  season 
to  taste.  Warm  thoroughly,  stirring  to  prevent  burning;  makeup 
in  rolls  or  any  other  form  and  brown  in  oven ; or  after  prepared 
with  sauce  put  in  the  frying-pan  with  a little  oil,  lard  or  drippings, 
and  heat  through  and  then  shape  into  a roll  and  brown,  turning  it 
over  and  over  to  brown  evenly. 

Cold  cod  is  an  admirable  material  for  making  pretty  little  din- 
ner and  breakfast  dishes.  An  excellent  curry  may  be  made  by 
breaking  up  cold  fish  into  flakes  as  neatly  as  possible.  These  should 
be  fried  in  butter,  with  onions  cut  in  rings  and  a suspicion  of  shal 


FISH. 


273 


lot,  to  a fine  light  brown  color ; then  take  some  butter  rolled  in  flour, 
put  into  a stewpan,  and  let  it  take  a light  color ; add  some  good 
white  stock  or  gravy,  and  a large  spoonful  curry  powder  made  into 
paste  with  cream ; throw  in  flaked  fish  (not  the  onions),  simmer  for 
about  ten  minutes,  and  serve  with  rice  in  separate  dish.  Cold  salt 
cod  may  be  used. 

Cod  Sounds. — These  are  the  air  or  swimming  bladders  of  the 
fish  and  should  be  well  soaked  in  salted  water,  and  thoroughly  washed 
before  dressing.  They  are  considered  a great  delicacy,  and  may 
either  be  broiled,  fried,  or  boiled ; if  they  are  boiled,  mix  a little 
milk  with  the  water.  Cod  Sounds  with  Forcemeat. — Make  a force- 
meat of  twelve  chopped  oysters,  three  chopped  anchovies,  quarter 
pound  bread-crumbs,  tablespoon  butter,  two  eggs ; seasoning  of  salt 
pepper,  nutmeg,  and  mace  to  taste.  Mix  the  ingredients  well  to- 
gether. Wash  the  sounds,  and  boil  them  in  milk  and  water  for 
half  an  hour ; take  out  ?md  let  cool.  Cover  each  with  a layer  of 
forcemeat,  roll  up  in  nice  form,  and  skewer  them.  Rub  over  with 
butter,  dredge  with  flour,  and  broil  gently  over  the  fire  or  bake  in 
oven. 

CoddsJi  a la  Mode. — One  cup  codfish  (if  salt  codfish  is  used 
freshen  overnight),  picked  up  fine,  two  cups  mashed  potatoes,  om 
pint  cream  or  milk,  two  eggs  well-beaten,  half  cup  butter,  salt  and 
pepper ; mix  well,  bake  in  baking-dish  from  twenty  to  twenty-five 
minutes.  For  Scalloped  Coddsh,  use  bread-crumbs  instead  of  pota- 
toes, moistening  them  with  the  cream  or  milk,  putting  in  the  dish 
in  layers,  alternating  with  the  fish,  and  finishing  with  the  crumbs ; 
sprinkle  bits  of  butter  over  the  top  and  bake  half  an  hour,  or  the 
mashed  potatoes  may  be  used  also. 

Coddsh  and  Eggs. — Take  a pint  each  freshened  and  flaked  cod- 
fish (or  any  cooked  salt-fish)  and  milk  or  cream,  two  tablespoonij 
flour,  one  of  butter  and  six  eggs.  Mix  the  flour  smooth  in  a little 
of  the  milk,  putting  the  remainder  on  to  boil ; stir  in  the  flour,  and 
add  the  fish,  season  with  pepper  (it  should  be  salt  enough)  and 
cook  ten  minutes.  Poach  the  eggs  carefully.  Turn  the  cooked  fish 
over  six  slices  or  rounds  of  nicely  toasted  bread  on  a platter,  and 
place  the  eggs  on  the  fish.  Garnish  with  points  of  toast  and  sprigs 
of  parsley.  A delicious  dish. 

Coddsh  Fritters. — One  pint  finely  picked  salt  codfish,  two  of 
whole  raw  peeled  potatoes.  Place  together  in  cold  water  and  boil 
till  potatoes  are  done.  Remove  from  fire  and  drain ; mash  well,  add 
tablespoon  butter,  two  well-beaten  eggs  and  a little  white  pepper. 
Mix  with  a wooden  spoon  and  drop  in  hot  cooking-oil  or  lard  in 
spoonfuls  as  fritters- 
18 


274 


FISH. 


CodHsli  Mountain.— some  codfish,  and  simply  boil  in 
water ; take  up,  bone  and  flake  nicely,  and  put  into  a stewpan  over 
the  fire ; keep  stirring  while  gradually  dropping  upon  it  some  good 
Italian  olive-oil ; when  the  fish  becomes  a sort  of  cream,  add  finely- 
chopped  parsley,  a bruised. garlic,  and  a grated  lemon-neel;  serve 
heaped  up  in  a dish. 

Cream,  Coddsh. — Soak  pieces  of  codfish  several  hours  in  cold 
water,  o^’  wash  thoroughly,  heat  in  oven  and  pick  fine,  and  place  in 
skillet  with  cold  water ; boil  a few  minutes,  pour  off  water  and  add 
fresh,  boil  again  (if  not  very  salt  the  second  boiling  is  not  necessary), 
and  drain  off  as  before ; then  add  a pint  and  a half  sweet  milk  to 
each  pint  codfish — or  part  cream  and  part  milk,  half  and  half  is  very 
nice — a |>iece  of  butter  size  of  an  egg  when  cream  is  not  used  and  a 
thickening  made  of  a tablespoon  flour  (or  half  tablespoon  corn 
starch)  mixed  with  two  tablespoons  cold  milk  until  smooth  like 
cream;  season  with  white  pepper,  stir  well  just  before  taking  from 
fire,  drop  in  an  egg  if  liked,  stir  very  briskly,  and  serve.  This  is 
very  rich  and  thick,  and  is  a very  nice  dish  of  fish.  If  wanted  as 
a gravy,  or  ivlien  much  gravy  is  liked,  use  double  the  quantity  of 
milk,  butter  and  flour.  Salt  codfish  is  also  excellent  broiled.  Soak 
overnight,  and  broil  as  other  fish. 

Masked  Coddsh. — Stir  four  tablespoons  butter  with  a pint  hot 
mashed  potatoes  and  add  a half  pint  finely  shredded  codfish,  a gill 
milk  or  cream  and  teaspoon  pepper.  Butter  a quart  tin  mold  and 
pack  it  evenly  and  smoothly  ivith  the  above  mixture  ; let  it  stand  in 
the  OA^en  ten  minutes  ; turn  it  out  on  the  perforated  plate  of  the  fish- 
kettle,  cover  with  beaten  yolk  of  egg  and  bread-crumbs  ; have  ready 
enough  hot  fat  in  the  fish-kettle  to  immerse  it,  sink  the  plate  into 
the  fat  and  let  stand  until  the  whole  is  nicely  browned.  Be  sure 
the  fat  is  hot  enough  or  the  dish  ivill  be  spoiled.  Slide  carefully 
upon  a platter  and  garnish  with  curled  parsley.  If  a fish-kettle  is 
not  at  hand  mask  by  browning  in  the  oven,  covered  with  egg  only. 
Egg  sauce  is  excellent  with  this. 

Fried  Eels. — Skin,  take  off  head  and  tail,  cut  into  small  pieces, 
throAV  into  boiling  water  for  five  minutes,  drain,  roll  in  flour  or  corn 
meal  peppered  and  salted,  and  fry  in  very  hot  lard.  A favorite  Avay 
of  cooking  them  is  to  skin  and  boil  in  salted  water  with  a few  pepper- 
corns. Let  stand  in  ivater  until  cold  and  serve  cold. 

Fried  Flounders. — Bone  the  flounders  and  divide  into  four 
pieces.  Have  a deep  skillet  of  hot  fat  ready,  wipe  each  piece  of  fish 
dry,  dip  in  milk,  then  in  flour,  drop  them  into  the  fat  and  Avhen 
beautifully  broivn,  w^hich  will  be  in  about  ten  minutes,  take  up  in  a 
colander,  and  then  lay  them  on  a toAvel  to  absorb  any  fat,  place  on 
a hot  dish,and  garnish  with  slices  of  lemon  and  parsley  or  celery 
tops.  Pronounced  equal  to  the  Delmonico  Mlet  de  sole. 


FISH. 


275 


Boiled  Haddock. — Wash  a three-pound  haddocl?  as  soon  as  it 
comes  from  market,  and  someplace  in  a large  pan  containing  plenty 
of  cold  water  and  a handful  of  salt  for  a short  time.  To  cook,  place 
in  fish-kettle  with  cold  water  to  cover,  a gill  of  vinegar,  tablespoon 
salt,  a small  root  of  parsley,  six  cloves  and  one  sprig  each  of  thyme 
and  majoram.  AVhen  the  water  boils  fish  will  usually  be  done  ; test 
h}"  pulling  out  a fin,  if  it  comes  out  easily  and  flesh  of  fish  looks 
clear  white  it  is  done.  Take  up  carefully  without  breaking,  remove 
the  skin  by  scraping  gently  so  as  to  avoid  tearing  the  fish.  Serve 
with  parsley  or  anchovy  sauce.  For  small  haddocks,  fasten  tails  in 
their  mouths  and  pin  with  a wooden  toothpick  and  jilace  in  boiling 
water.  Generally  they  do  not  weigh  more  than  two  or  three  pounds, 
or  exceed  ten  or  twelve  inches  in  length  and  such  are  esteemed  very 
delicate  eating.  Haddocks  are  at  their  best  in  November,  December, 
June  and  Juh\  Any  fish  may  be  cooked  as  above. 

Creamed  Haddock. — Put  a fish  weighing  five  or  six  pounds  on 
in  cold  water  enough  to  cover,  and  which  contains  one  tablespoon 
of  salt.  Cook  gently  twenty  minutes  ; then  lift  out  of  the  water,  but 
let  it  remain  on  the  tray.  Now  carefully  remove  all  the  skin  and 
the  head ; then  turn  the  fish  over  into  the  dish  in  which  it  is  to  be 
served  (it  should  be  stone  china),  and  scrape  off  the  skin  from  the 
other  side.  Pick  out  all  the  small  bones  ; they  are  down  the  whole 
length  of  the  back,  and  a few  in  the  lower  part  of  the  fish,  near  the 
tail,  in  rows  like  pins  in  a paper,  and  it  will  take  but  a few 
minutes  to  remove  them.  Then  take  out'the  back-bone,  starting  at 
the  head  and  working  gently  down  toward  the  tail.  Great  care 
must  be  taken,  that  the  fish  may  keep  its  shape.  Cover  with  pre- 
pared cream  as  follows  : Put  one  quart  milk,  two  sprigs  parsley  and 
small  sliced  onion  on  to  boil,  reserving  half  a cup  milk  to  mix  with 
two  tablespoons  flour.  When  it  boils,  stir  in  the  flour  paste.  Cook 
eight  minutes.  Season  highly  with  salt  and  pepper,  add  tablespoon 
butter,  strain  on  the  fish,  and  bake  about  ten  minutes,  just  to  brown 
it  a little.  Garnish  with  parsley  or  little  puff-paste  cakes  ; or,  cover 
it  with  the  whites  of  three  eggs,  beaten  to  a stifi’  froth,  and  then 
slightly  brown.  A cusk  or  cod  can  be  cooked  in  same  way. 

Baked  Halibut. — Use  neck  of  halibut,  the  thin  part  just  below 
the  head,  under  the  gills.  Wash  in  cold  water,  and  if  not  ready  to 
use  let  it  stand  in  cold  water.  Put  butter,  drippings,  or  pieces  of 
salt  pork  in  baking  pan,  lay  in  the  fish  and  bake  three-quarters  of 
an  lioui,  basting  with  the  drippings,  being  careful  not  to  let  l)urn ; 
place  on  hot  platter  without  breaking  the  fish  and  serve  with  tomato 
sauce  around  it.  To  make  the  sauce  for  three  pounds  fish,  take  a 
pint  canned  or  fresh  tomatoes,  cook  and  season  with  salt,  pepper, 
and  if  wished,  a clove  of  garlic,  chopped  very  fine. 

Creoled  Halibut. — Wash  a thick  square  piece  of  fresh  halibut, 
place  in  baking  dish,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  strew  over  it 


276 


FISH. 


a finely  chopped  clove  of  garlic,  about  the  size  of  a bean,  and  cover 
with  a cup  of  fresh  or  canned  tomatoes.  Bake  until  flakes  separate ; 
-dish  without  breaking. 

Baited  Herrings. — Scale  and  clean  two  pounds  herrings  care- 
fully without  washing,  unless  it  be  absolutely  necessary.  Split 
down  the  back  and  remove  backbones,  sprinkle  inside  with  a little 
pepper,  salt,  and  pounded  mace  mixed  together.  If  there  are  an^/ 
roes  enclose  them  in  the  fish  and  place  latter  in  layers  in  a baking 
dish  with  six  each  whole  cloves  and  pepper-corns,  and  two  bay 
leaves.  Cover  with  an  equal  mixture  of  vinegar  and  water  or  all 
vinegar,  salt  iplentifully  and  tie  a sheet  of  oiled  Y)aper  over  the  dish, 
mid  bake  one  hour ; serve  cold.  Baked  Salt  Herring  are  prepared 
liy  soaking  the  herring  overnight,  roll  in  flour  and  butter,  and  place 
in  a dripping  pan  with  a very  little  water  over  them ; season  with 
pepper,  and  after  putting  in  oven  baste  frequently. 

Herring  Pudding. — First  thoroughly  wash  and  then  soak  two 
salt  herrings  in  water  overnight,  or  in  sweet  milk  four  or  five  hours, 
as  the  milk  extracts  the  salt  in  half  the  time  and  even  less.  Pick  in 
pieces  and  place  in  a quart  baking  dish  a layer  of  fish  with  little 
bits  of  butter  and  then  a layer  of  cold  boiled  potatoes  sliced,*  and 
one  of  cooked  rice,  then  fish,  etc.,  with  potatoes  for  last  layer ; cover 
with  a custard  made  of  one  pint  milk,  two  eggs,  seasoned  with  salt 
and  pepper,  and  bake  in  oven  half  an  hour ; rice  may  be  omitted. 
Any  salt  or  fresh  fish  (not  soaking)  may  be  used,  and  any  cold 
cooked  fish. 

Baked  Mackerel. — Clean  four  medium-sized  fish,  the  largest 
seldom  weigh  over  two  pounds,  take  out  the  roes  and  fill  with  a 
forcemeat  made  by  mixing  well  together  tablespoon  each  fresh  but- 
ter, finely  shredded  suet  and  fat  bacon,  diced,  small  teaspoon  minced 
/liavory  herbs  and  parsley,  a little  finely  minced  onion,  if  liked,  four 
tablespoons  bread-crumbs,  one  egg,  salt,  nutmeg  and  cayenne  to 
taste.  Sew  up  slit,  flour,  and  put  in  a baking  dish,  heads  and  tails 
alternately,  put  on  bits  of  butter,  pepper  and  salt,  then  the  roes. 
Bake  half  an  hour  and  serve  with  plain  drawn  butter  or  a maitre 
ddiotel  sauce. 

Boiled  Mackerel. — Cleanse  tlie  inside  of  the  fish  thoroughly, 
and  lay  it  in  the  kettle  with  sufficient  water  to  cover,  with  quarter 
pound  salt  to  each  gallon  water ; bring  it  gradually  to  boil,  skim 
well,  and  simmer  gently  till  done, 
when  the  tail  splits  and  the  eye 
starts  out,  generally  about  ten  min- 
utes ; dish  on  a hot  napkin,  heads 
and  tails  alternately,  and  garnish 
with  fennel.  Fennel  sauce  and  plain  melted  butter  are  the  usual 
accompaniments  to  boiled  jnackerel ; but  caper  or  anchovy  sauce  is 


Boiled  Mackerel. 


FISH. 


277 


sometimes  served  with  it.  When  variety  is  desired,  fillet  the  mack- 
erel, boil  it,  and  pour  over  parsley  and  butter ; send  some  of  this 
besides,  in  a tureen.  Or  for  Pickled  Mackerel^  boil  as  above,  place 
in  dish,  take  half  the  liquor  in  which  they  were  boiled,  add  as  much 
vinegar,  a few  pepper-corns  and  a bay  leaf  or  two,  boil  ten  minutes 
and  when  cold,  pour  over  the  fish. 

Broiled  Mackerel. — Mackerel  should  never  be  washed  when 
intended  to  be  broiled,  but  merely  wiped  very  clean  and  dry  after 
taking  out  the  gills  and  inside.  Open  the  back,  and  put  in  a little 
pepper,  salt,  and  oil ; broil  it  over  a clear  fire,  turn  it  over  on  both 
sides,  and  also  on  the  back.  When  sufficiently  cooked,  which  will 
be  in  about  ten  minutes  for  a small  mackerel,  the  flesh  can  be  de- 
tached from  the  bone.  Chop  a little  parsley,  mix  with  butter,  pep- 
per and  salt  to  taste,  and  a squeeze  of  lemon-juice,  and  put  it  in  the 
back.  Serve  before  the  butter  is  quite  melted,  with  a maitre  d'’ hotel 
sauce  in  a tureen. 

Salt  Mackerel. — Take  mackerel  from  the  salt,  wash  carefully, 
and  lay  them  inside  downward  in  a pan  of  cold  water  for  twelve  to 
fifteen  hours  ; change  the  water  frequently,  and  if  wanted  sooner  the 
hsh  may  be  soaked  in  sweet  or  sour  milk — it  will  freshen  in  half  the 
time.  Scrape  clean,  and  for  Boiled  Mackerel  wrap  in  a cloth  and 
simmer  fifteen  minutes ; it  will  be  almost  done  when  the  water 
reaches  boiling  point ; remove,  lay  on  it  two  hard-boiled  eggs  sliced, 
pour  drawn  butter  over  and  trim  with  parsley  leaves.  Boiling  salt- 
fish  hardens  it.  For  Baked  Mackerel^  lay  in  shallow  pan,  the  inside 
of  fish  down  ; cover  with  water,  and  set  it  over  a gentle  fire  or  in  an 
oven  for  twelve  or  fiften  minutes ; then  pour  off  water,  turn  fish,  put 
bits  of  butter  in  pan,  and  over  the  fish,  sprinkle  wuth  pepper  and  fry 
for  five  minutes,  then  serve. 

Baked  Mullet. — Cut  one  carrot  and  two  onions  into  thin  slices  ; 
add  thyme,  parsley  and  marjoram,  with  pepper  and  salt  to  taste, 
and  three  tablespoons  salad  oil ; mix  well  together,  cover  each  mul- 
let with  the  mixture,  and  roll  it  up  in  a piece  of  white  paper,  previ- 
ously oiled ; bake  in  a moderate  oven  half  an  hour,  then  carefully 
open  the  paper,  place  the  fish  neatly  on  a dish,  ready  to  serve,  and 
keep  it  warm.  Melt  a small  piece  butter,  add  a large 'pinch  flour, 
a half  cup  good  stock,  and  the  vegetables,  etc.,  the  fish  were  cooked 
in.  Let  the  sauce  boil  five  minutes,  add  salt  if  wanted ; strain, 
skim,  pour  over  the  fish,  and  serve. 

Fried  Pan-Fish. — Take  perch,  sun-fish,  or  any  small  fish ; 
place  in  pan  with  heads  together,  and  fill  spaces  with  smaller  fish; 
when  ready  to  turn,  put  a plate  over,  drain  off  fat,  invert  pan,  and 
the  fish  will  be  left  unbroken  on  the  plate.  Put  the  lard  back  in 
the  pan  and  when  hot.^  slip  back  the  fish,  and  when  the  other  side  is 


brown,  drain,  turn  on  plate  as  before,  and  slide  them  on  the  platter 
to  go  to  the  table.  This  improves  the  appearance,  if  not  the  flavor. 
The  heads  should  be  left  on,  and  the  shape  preserved  as  fully  as 
possible. 

Baked  Pickerel. — Clean  the  fish  thoroughly,  wipe  carefully, 
and  lay  in  a dripping-pan  with  hot  water  enough  to  prevent  scorch- 
ing ; a perforated  tin  sheet  or  rack  fitting  closely  in  the  pan,  or  hard- 
wood sticks  laid  crosswise,  or  several  muffiiirrings  may  be  used  to 
keep  the  fish  from  the  bottom  of  the  pan,  and  the  fish  may  be  made 
to  form  a circle  by  tying  head  and  tail  together ; cover  with  an  in- 
verted pan  and  bake  slowly,  basting  occasional!}^  with  butter  and 
water.  It  will  not  need  so  frequent  basting  if  covered.  Remove 
pan  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes  before  done  to  brown  nicely.  When 
done  have  ready  a cup  sweet  cream  into  which  a few  spoons  hot 
water  have  been  poured,  stir  in  two  tablespoons  melted  butter  and 
a little  chopped  parsley,  and  heat  in  a vessel  of  boiling  water ; add 
the  gravy  from  the  fish  and  boil  up  once.  Place  the  fish  in  a hot 
dish,  and  pour  over  the  sauce.  Bake  Salmon  and  Trout  same  way. 

Pike  a la  Godard. — The  inside  of  a fine  pike  must  be  removed 
through  the  gills,  and  the  fish  put  into  scalding  water  in  order  that 
the  skin  may  be  stripped  off  easily ; also  tie  the  head  with  fine 
twine.  Wrap  the  fish  in  buttered  paper,  put  it  into  a fish-kettle  and 
cover  with  cold  water.  When  pike  is  done,  which  can  be  told  by 
touching  it  gently,  drain  it  and  garnish  with  cray-fish,  which  are 
simply  the  homely  craw-fish,  and  quenelles  of  forcemeat  made  as 


, Pike  a la  Godard. 

follows : Take  one  teacup  bread-crumbs,  one  teaspoon  minced 
savory  herbs,  eight  oysters,  tw*o  anchovies  (or  omit* the  latter),  two 
ounces  suet ; salt,  pepper,  and  pounded  mace  to  taste ; six  table- 
spoons of  cream  or  milk,  and  two  eggs.  Beard  and  mince  the  oys- 
ters, prepare  and  mix  the  other  ingredients,  and  when  properly  pre- 
pared, pound  all  together  in  a mortar  for  some  time  ; for  the  more 
quenelles  are  pounded,  the  more  delicate  they  are.  Now  moisten 
with  the  eggs,  whites  and  yolks,  and  continue  pounding,  adding  a 
seasoning  of  pepper,  spices,  &c.  When  the  whole  is  well  blended 
together,  mold  into  balls,  roll  in  flour,  and  poach  in  boiling  water 


• FISPI. 


279 


to  which  a little  salt  has  been  added.  If  the  quenelles  are  not  firm 
enough,  add  the  yolk  of  another  egg,  hut  omit  the  white,  which  only 
makes  them  hollow  and  puffy  inside,  and  whites  may  be  omitted 
altogether.  In  the  preparation  of  the  quenelles  the  ingredients  are 
to  be  well  yyounded  and  seasoned,  for  this  is  the  secret  of  the  French 
quenelles ; when  they  are  wished  very  small,  extreme  delicacy  will 
he  necessary  in  their  preparation.  Their  flavor  may  he  varied  by 
using  the  flesh  of  rabbit,  fowl,  hare,  pheasant  or  grouse,  with  the 
addition  of  mushroom,  parsley,  etc.  Prepare  the  crayfish  by  throw- 
ing into  boiling  water,  to  which  has  been  added  a good  seasoning  of 
salt  and  a little  vinegar.  When  done,  which  will  be  in  fifteen  minutes, 
take  out  and  drain  them.  Let  them  cool,  arrange  around  the  fish 
as  illustrated,  alternately  with  the  quenelles.  This  fish  is  also  nice 
for  garnishing  boiled  turkey,  boiled  fowl,  calf’s  head,  and  all  kinds 
of  boiled  fish.  It  should  be  oftener  employed  for  the  delicious  soup 
it  makes  than  it  at  present  is,  and  housewives  should  excite  a de- 
mand for  it  among  the  fishmongers  and  a supply  would  soon  be 
forthcoming.  They  are  also  nice  as  Potted  Craydsh.  Boil  one  hun- 
dred crayfish  in  salt  and  water ; pick  out  all  the  meat  and  pound  it 
in  a mortar  to  paste.  Whilst  pounding,  add  two  tablespoons  butter 
gradually,  and  mix  in  pounded  mace,  pepper  and  salt  to  taste.  Put 
it  in  small  pots,  and  pour  over  it  clarified  butter,  carefully  exclud- 
ing the  air. 

Fried  Red  Snapper, — Cut  a red  snapper  in  pieces  and  fry 
brown.  In  a separate  vessel,  cut  up  and  fry  one  onion  and  two 
cloves  of  garlic ; when  brown,  add  two  tablespoons  flour,  one  pint 
prepared  tomatoes,  a little  pepper,  salt  to  taste,  one  tablespoon 
W orcestershire  sauce,  and  half  a dozen  whole  cloves.  Let  this  sim- 
mer half  an  hour,  and  stir  in  a tablespoon  vinegar.  Pour  over  the 
fried  fish,  and  serve  immediately.  Or  fry  by  immersing  in  hot  fat 
as  directed  in  Fried  Fish.  Red  Snapper  is  also  very  nice  boiled. 

Fried  Roe. — Fish-spawn,  especially  the  shad,  is  a delicacy  great- 
ly prized  by  epicures.  Wash  and  wipe,  fry  twenty  minutes  in  hot 
fat  in  a frying  pan  on  both  sides  ; sea.  on,  dish  on  a hot  platter  and 
place  around  it  a row  or  double  row  of  plain  hied  oysters.  Put  a bunch 
of  parsley  in  the  center,  and  half  a lemon  with  the  peel  cut  in  saw 
teeth,  dr  first  boil  the  roes  (cutting  them  in  two  if  large),  in  water 
seasoned  wit?i  vinegar,  salt  and  pep])er,  ten  minutes,  take  out  and 
plunge  them  in  slightly  salted  cold  v/ater,  wipe  dry  again  and  let 
them  lay  a minute  or  two  ; then  loll  in  beaten  gg  and  bread-crumbs 
and  fry  a nice  brown  on  both  sides  in  hot  lard  or  drippings.  Serve 
with  a sauce  made  of  a cup  drawn  butter,  a teaspoon  anchovy  sauce, 
piece  of  half  a lemon,  a .dtle  minced  parsley  and  a pinch  of  cayenne 
pepper.  Send  around  in  a gravy  boat.  Another  nice  way  of  frying 
and  serving  roe  is  to  first  wash  any  kind  of  fish-roe  in  salted  cold 
water,  and  dry  it  on  a towel ; then  put  into  a frying-pan  containing 


280 


FISH. 


sufficient  hot  fat  to  prevent  burning ; -cover  the  pan  anu  Drown  the 
roe,  first  on  one  side  and  then  on  the  other ; when  it  is  done  lay  it 
on  brown  paper  to  free  it  from  fat,  and  then  on  a hot  dish.  Mean- 
time, peel  half  a dozen  potatoes,  cut  in  small  balls  with  a vegetable 
scoop,  or  in  pieces  an  inch  square ; throw  them  into  salted  boiling 
water,  and  boil  until  a trussing  needle  or  sharp  fork  will  easily 
pierce  them,  but  do  not  boil  them  soft;  as  soon  as  they  are  tender 
drain  them  and  lay  them  between  the  folds  of  a towel  until  the  fish- 
roe  is  brown.  Theil  put  the  potatoes  into  the  hot  fat  where  the  roe 
was  fried,  set  the  pan  over  the  fire  and  shake  the  potatoes  about  in 
it  until  they  are  brown.  Serve  them  under  the  fish-roe  after  dusting 
them  over  with  pepper  and  salt.  For  Roe  Croquettes  take  four 
medium-sized  shad  roes,  two  boiled  potatoes,  ounce  each  butter  and 
flour,  gill  cold  water,  tablespoon  chopped  parsley,  teaspoon  each 
lemon  juice  and  salt,  half  teaspoon  pepper,  two  hard-boiled  eggs, 
one  raw  egg  and  four  tablespoons  bread-crumbs.  Boil  the  roes 
twenty  minutes,  take  out,  drain  and  placing  in  a bowl  separate  with 
a wooden  spoon ; add  the  pepper,  salt  and  chopped  parsley ; rub 
through  a sieve  over  the  bowl  the  hard-boiled  yolks  and  then  the 
potatoes ; add  the  two  hard-boiled  whites,  finely  chopped,  and  the 
Lemon  juice.  Melt  the  butter  in  a saucepan,  stir  in  the  flour  and 
gill  cold  water  by  degrees,  and  when  boiling  pour  it  over  the  materials 
in  the  bowl  and  stir  all  thoroughly  together.  Make  into  small  shapes 
resembling  the  shad-roe,  beat  the  raw  egg  and  dip  these  into  it,  roll 
in  the  bread-crumbs,  and  fry  as  doughnuts  in  hot  fat,  draining  on  a 
piece  of  kitchen  paper  over  a sieve  in  oven  to  keep  hot,  and  serve  in 
a folded  napkin.  Or  for  the  four  shad  roes  take  one  pint  cream, 
four  tablespoons  each  corn-starch,  and  butter,  one  teaspoon  salt, 
juice  of  two  lemons,  slight  grating  of  nutmeg  and  a speck  cayenne. 
Boil  the  roe  as  above,  then  drain  and  mash.  Put  the  cream  on  to 
boil,  mix  the  butter  and  corn-starch  together,  and  stir  into  the  boil- 
ing cream  ; add  the  seasoning  and  roe;  boil  up  once,  and  set  away 
to  cool.  Make  into  balls,  or  hape  and  fry  as  directed  above. 

Baked  Salmon. — Procure  a middle  cut  of  salmon ; butter  both 
sides  of  a large  sheet  of  writing  paper  and  roll  the  fish  in  it,  pinning 
the  ends  securely  together.  Put  it  in  the  baking  pan  and  pour  a 
half  cup  butter  and  water  over  it.  Cover  with  another  pan  and  bake 
in  a moderat  oven  one  hour,  lifting  the  cover  occasionally  to  baste 
and  see  that  the  paper  does  not  scorch.  Make  a sauce  by  beating  a 
cup  of  cream  over  boiling  water,  thicken  with  a heaping  teaspoon 
corn-starch,  add  a tablespoon  butter,  and  pepper,  sal'  and  finely 
chopped  parsley  to  taste.  When  the  salmon  is  done,  take  off  the 
paper,  place  on  a hot  platter,  pour  half  the  sauce  slowly  over  it  and 
send  the  rest  to  table  in  a boat.  If  cream  cannot  be  had  for  the 
sauce  use  milk  and  a well  beaten  egg. 

Salmon  Croquettes. — This  dainty  dish  may  be  made  of  the 
fresh  fish,  boiled  and  cold,  or  of  the  canned  salmon.  The  meat  must 


FISH. 


281 


be  carefully  separated  from  bones  and  skin,  chopped  fine  and  the 
juice  of  half  a lemon,  a tablespoon  chopped  parsley,  a little  salt  and 
a pinch  of  cayenne  added ; mix  all  together.  Put  two  tablespoons 
best  butter  for  each  pint  and  a half  chopped  salmon  into  a sauce- 
pan with  two  teaspoons  flour  and  cook  together,  stirring  constantly. 
Add  a little  of  the  stock  the  fish  was  boiled  in  and  a cup  of  cream.  Boil 
for  five  or  six  minutes,  stirring  steadily,  then  mix  in  the  chopped 
salmon,  stir  well  together,  and  add  and  stir  rapidly  in  yolks  four 
eggs.  Continue  to  stir  briskly  a few  minutes  longer,  then  pour  the 
mixture  out  upon  a large  flat  dish  and  set  it  in  a cool  place  until 
perfectly  cold.  Then  make  in  small  rolls  or  pear-shaped  cones,  using 
mst  enough  flour  to  prevent  the  mixture  from  sticking  to  the  hands, 
when  all  are  done,  dip  them  one  at  a time  into  eggs  beaten  up  with 
a little  cream,  and  roll  them  in  freshly-made  bread-crumbs.  Let 
them  rest  for  an  hour,  then  fry  them  to  a delicate  brown  color  in 
plenty  of  boiling  hot  lard.  Or,  mix  with  three-fourths  pint  shred 
salmon,  five  tablespoons  bread-crumbs ; melt  one  and  one-half  table- 
spoons butter  and  pour  over  the  mixture,  adding  half  teaspoon  each 
salt  and  pepper  and  saltspoon  each  grated  nutmeg  and  powdered 
mace ; beat  all  together  and  add  juice  of  half  a lemon,  teaspoon 
anchovy  sauce  and  two  beaten  eggs,  stirring  well ; shape  and  fry  as 
above. 

Salmon  Fritters. — Remove  skin  and  bone  from  a pound  canned 
salmon,  mince  and  add  an  equal  quantity  potato  that  has  been 
mashed  and  mixed  with  butter  and  cream ; work  the  mixture  into 
little  cakes  and  fry  in  a little  butter. 

Boiled  Salmon. — Scale  and  clean  fish,  and  be  particular  that 
no  blood  is  left  inside ; lay  in  fish-kettle  with  sufficient  hot  water, 
to  cover  (hot  is  used  to  better  preserve  the  color)  adding  salt  in  the 
proportion  of  six  tablespoons  to  a gallon  water.  Bring  it  quickly  to 
a boil,  take  off  scum,  and  let  simmer  gently  till  the  fish  is  done, 
which  will  be  when  the  meat  separates  easily  from  the  bone.  Drain 
it,  and  if  not  wanted  for  a few  minutes,  keep  warm  l>v  means  of 
warm  cloths  laid  over  it.  Serve  on  a hot  napkin,  garnish  with  cut 
lemon  and  parsley,  and  send  lobster,  oyster,  shrimp  or  hollandaise 
sauce,  and  plain  melted  butter  to  table  with  it.  A dish  of  dressed 
cucumber  usually  accompanies  this  fish,  and  a little  lemon-juice 
squeezed  over  it  is  considered  by  many  persons  a most  agreeable 
addition.  Peas  are  also,  by  some  connoisseurs,  considered  es})ecially 
adapted  to  be  served  with  salmon.  Boiled  is  the  best  way  of  cook- 
ing salmon.  For  a more  fancy  dish  arrange  in  the  form  of  a letter 
S,  as  follows : Thread  a trussing-needle 
with  some  twine  ; tie  the  end  of  the  string 
around  the  head,  fastening  it  tight;  then 
pass  the  needle  through  the  center  part  of 
the  body,  draw  the  string  tight,  and  fasten 
it  around  the  tail.  The  fish  will  assume  the  desired  form.  Salmon 


28z 


prepared  thus  is  very  nice  served  cold  at  evening  parties  with  a 
mayonnaise  sauce  poured  over.  It  may  then  he  mounted  on  a 
pedestal  which  may  be  carved  with  a sharp  knife  in  any  form  de- 
sired from  bread  two  or  three  days  old,  fried  a nice  brown  in  deep 
lard,  or  made  of  wood  covered  with  Avhite  paper  brushed  over  with 
aspic  jelly ; the  salmon  should  then  also  be  decorated  with  bits 
of  aspic  jelly  in  squares  or  other  forms.  Cauliflower  blossoms  and 
sliced  or  quartered  hard-boiled  eggs  make  a very  pretty  and  appro- 
priate decoration  when  served  with  the  mayonnaise  sauce. 

Broiled  Salmon  Cutlets. — Cut  slices  an  inch  thick,  and  season 
with  pep})er  and  salt ; butter  a sheet  of  white  paper,  lay  each  slice 
on  a separate  piece,  with  the  ends  twisted ; broil  gently  over  a clear 
fire,  and  serve  with  anchovy  or  caper  sauce.  When  higher  season- 
ing is  liked,  add  a few  chopped  herbs  and  a little  spice. 

Escalloped^  Salmon. — Roll  fine  one  quart  crackers,  season  with 
salt  and  pepper  and  mix  with  one  can  salmon ; put  in  a skillet  and 
add  milk  (or  milk  and  water)  to  moisten  well,  and  some  bits  of  but- 
ter. Cover  and  steam  thoroughly. 

Fried  Salmon  Steaks. — Cut  slices  an  inch  thick  from  the  mid- 
dle of  the  fish,  wipe  dry  and  sprinkle  on  a little  salt,  then  dip  in  egg 
and  cracker  dust  and  fry  in  hot  salad  oil  or  butter,  turning  to  brown 
both  sides.  Drain  and  serve  on  hot  platter  lined  with  clean  paper 
fringed  at  the  ends ; garnish  with  parsley. 

Canned  Salmon. — The  California  canned  salmon  is  nice  served 
cold  with  any  of  the  fish  sauces ; mix  together  yolks  of  three  eggs, 
half  cup  each  cream  and  vinegar,  two  teaspoons  brown  sugar,  salt, 
pepper,  and  celery-seed  to  taste ; boil  thick  like  custard  and  pour 
over  one  can  salmon.  For  a breakfast  dish,  it  may  be  heated, 
seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  served  on  slices  of  toast,  with 
milk  thickened  with  flour  and  butter  poured  over  it. 

Crimped  Salmon. — Take  a middle  cut  of  fresh  salmon  and  cut 
in  slices  two  or  three  inches  thick.  Lay  in  cold  salted  water  one 
hour ; then  place  in  boiling  salted  water,  skim  and  simmer  gently 
twenty  minutes,  if  very  thick  slices.  Garnish  as  in  boiled  salmon 
and  serve  with  same  sauce. 

Salmon  Pudding. — Chop  a can  of  preserved  salmon  or  an 
equal  amount  of  cold,  either  roast  or  boiled,  and  rub  it  in  a mortar, 
or  in  a bowl  with  the  back  of  a spoon,  adding  four  tablespoons  melt- 
ed— not  hot — butter,  until  it  is  a smooth  paste.  Beat  a half  cup  fine 
bread-crumbs  with  four  eggs  and  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  minced 
parsley,  and  mix  all  together.  Put  into  a buttered  pudding  mold 
and  boil  or  steam  one  hour.  Make  a sauce  with  one  cup  milk 
thickened  with  tablespoon  coru-starch,  the  liquor 'from  the  canned 


FISH. 


283 


salmon,  and  tablespoon  butter,  or  double  the  quantity  of  butter  when 
the  liquor  is  not  used,  teaspoon  anchovy,  mushroom  or  tomato  cat- 
sup, a pinch  of  mace  or  cayenne,  and  a beaten  egg  stirred  in  last 
very  carefully.  Boil  one  minute,  and  when  the  salmon  is  turned 
from  the  mold  pour  the  sauce  over  it.  Cut  in  slices  at  table.  A 
very  nice ’supper  dish. 

Stewed  Salmon. — Stew  a can  of  salmon  in  the  liquor,  (or  cold, 
boiled  or  roast  in  a very  little  water),  slightly  salted,  ten  minutes. 
Have  ready  in  a large  saucepan  a cup  drawn  butter  thickened  with  rice- 
flour  or  corn-starch.  Season  with  cayenne  and  salt  to  taste  and  stir 
in  carefully  two  beaten  eggs,  then  the  salmon.  Let  it  come  to  a 
gentle  boil,  add  two  hard-boiled  eggs  and  some  capers  or  green 
pickles,  all  chopped  fine,  and  turn  into  a covered  deep  dish.  Or  add 
the  hard-boiled  eggs  and  capers  to  the  stewed  salmon,  with  a table- 
spoon butter^  toss  up  lightly  with  a fork,  pepper  slightly,  and  heap 
ia  the  center  of  a hot  flat  dish,  then  pour  the  boiling  sauce  over  all. 
l^ery  nice  either  way. 

Sardines. — These  are  small  fish  of  the  herring  family  and  come 
tX)  us  in  half  pound  and  pound  tin  boxes,  preserved  in  oil,  averaging 
from  a dozen  to  twenty-four  fish.  They  are  an  excellent  relish  and 
form  a wholesome  and  agreeable  addition  to  a breakfast,  luncheon, 
or  tea.  Take  out  carefully,  whole  if  possible,  place  on  platter  and 
garnish  with  parsley  and  slices  of  lemon,  serving  a slice  with  the 
fish.  The  American  Sardines.,  or  shrimps,  are  used  but  are  larger  and 
not  considered  as  delicate.  For  Fried  Sardines^  procure  largest- 
sized  sardines,  remove  from  oil,  place  on  dish,  and  let  drain  a few 
minutes ; dip  fish  in  well-beaten  egg,  and  roll  in  cracker  crumbs ; 
fry  brown  as  fritters  or  in  a little  butter  or  oil ; mix  oil  left  in  box 
nuth  cracker-crumbs,  make  in  very  small  cakes  and  fry  and  use  as  a 
garnish  for  the  fish,  alternated  with  sprigs  of  parsley.  Serve  hot. 
If  one  wishes  ^^''me-Afade  Sardines  can  be  made : Clean 
email  fish,  shrimps  are  nice,  salt  slightly  and  let  stand  overnight ; in 
the  morning  drain.  Fry  in  oil,  just  enough  to  cook  them,  then  pack 
in  tin  cans  or  boxes,  or  glass  cans,  putting  them  in  as  closely  as  pos- 
sible. Cover  with  oil,  and,  if  in  boxes,  solder  the  tops  on  ; if  bottles, 
screw  the  covers  on  tight.  Put  cans  in  a kettle  of  cold  water,  and 
bring  to  a boil  as  quickly  as  possible.  Let  boil  a])out  an  hour  and 
a quarter,  then  punch  a small  hole  in  tin  cans  to  let  out  the  gas,  and 
seal  agahx  immediately.  If  in  glass,  unscrew  the  top  and  screw  it 
on  again  as  soon  as  possible.  Let  stand  awhile  before  using.  A 
favorite  Parisian  dish  is  made  of  sardines  carefully  skinned  and 
boned,  laid  on  slices  of  buttered  toast,  and  then  put  into  the  oven, 
with  buttered  paper  over  them.,  to  get  hot.  Before  serving,  lemon 
juice  is  sprinkled  o\xr. 

Baked  Shad. — Open  and  clean  fish,  cut  off' head  (or  not  as  pre- 
ferred), cut  out  backbone,  from  the  head  to  within  two  inches  of  the 


284 


FISH. 


tail,  and  fill  with  the  following  mixture  : Soak  stale  bread  in  watei*, 
squeeze  dry ; cut  a large  onion  in  pieces,  fry  in  butter,  chop  fine, 
add  bread,  two  ounces  of  butter,  salt,  pepper,  and  a little  finely 
chopped  onion,  parsley  or  sage ; heat  thoroughly,  and  when  takeii 
from  the  fire,  add  two  yolks  of  eggs  well-beaten ; stuff,  and,  when 
full,  sew  or  wind  the  fish  several  times  with  tape,  place  in  baking- 
pan  and  cover  the  bottom  of  pan  with  water,  adding  a little  butter, 
and  baste  often.  When  done  serve  with  the  following  sauce  : Re- 
duce the  yolks  of  two  hard-boiled  eggs  to  a smooth  paste,  add  two 
table-spoons  olive  oil,  half  teaspoon  mustard,  and  pepper  and 
vinegar  to  taste.  Planked  Shad  is  very  delicious.  Take  a heavy 
oak  plank  18x24  inches  in  size,  and  about  an  inch  thick.  The  shad 
must  be  a perfectly  fresh,  solid  and  firm  roe  shad ; wash,  wipe,  salt 
on  both  sides  and  lay  on  board,  skin  side  down ; put  the  roes  in 
their  places,  and  bake  from  thirty  to  forty  minutes.  If  it  does  not 
brown  easily,  rub  butter  over  when  partly  done.  The  smoking  of 
the  wood  in  the  oven  adds  to  the  flavor. 

Baked  Sheeps-head. — When  ready  for  cooking,  salt  and  pepper 
well,  gash  the  sides  in  three  or  four  places,  mince  four  onions  fine, 
add  one  pint  bread-crumbs,  a little  finely  minced  fat  meat,  yolks  of 
two  eggs ; blend  all  together ; season  with  a little  cayenne  pepper, 
salt  and  thyme  ; with  this  stuff  the  fish  and  fill  gashes  on  the  out- 
side ; sprinkle  over  with  flour  and  black  pepper ; bake  slowly  in  a, 
large  pan  with  one  quart  hot  water  two  hours.  Serve  with  any 
sauce  preferred.  Sardine  Sauce  is  a capital  fish  sauce.  For  this 
bone  half  a dozen  large  sardines,  make  an  ordinary  sauce  of  buttei 
and  gravy,  and  in  this  boil  the  bones,  together  with  a minced  shalot, 
lemon  peel,  a bay  leaf,  and  some  pepper,  and  either  nutmeg  or 
mace.  Boil  fifteen  minutes,  or  until  all  the  several  flavors  have  been 
obtained ; then  strain  the  sauce  and  add  to  it  the  sardines,  chopped 
small. 


Baked  Smelts. — Wash,  and  dry  twelve  smelts  thoroughly  in  a 
cloth,  and  arrange  them  nicely  in  a flat  baking-dish.  Cover  with  fine 
bread-crumbs,  and  little  pieces  of  butter.  Season  with  salt,  cayenne, 
and  two  blades  pounded  mace,  and  bake  for  fifteen  minutes.  Just 
before  serving,  add  a squeeze  of  lemon-juice,  and  garnish  with  fried 
parsley  and  cut  lemon.  For  Fried Smelts^kic^  fish  should  be  very  fresh, 
and  not  washed  more  than  is  necessary.  Dry  them  in  a cloth,  lightly 
flour,  dip  them  in  egg,  and  sprinkle  over  with  very  fine  bread-crumbs, 
and  fry  in  hot  lard  as  doughnuts  to  nice  pale  brown ; be  careful 

not  to  take  off  the  liglit  roughness  of  the  crumbs,  or  their 

— . o beauty  will  be  spoiled.  Dry  them  before  the  fire  on  a 

— drainer,  and  serve  at  once  (or  the  crispness  and  flavor  will 
be  lost,)  with  plain  melted  butter.  Or  place  on  skewers 
with  thin  slices  of  bacon  between  the  fish ; fiy  in  hot 
' — 0^-6  lard  or  oil  as  above,  serving  one  skewerful,  skeiver  and 
all,  to  each  person,  garnishing  v.iih  lemon  slices.  Use  either  silver 


FISH. 


285 


plated  or  polished  wire  skewers.  They  are  about  three  inches  long. 

Fried  Filleted  Soles. — Soles  for  filleting  should  be  large,  as  the 
flesh  can  be  more  easily  separated  from  the  bones,  and  there  is  less 
Avaste.  Skin  and  wash  the  fish,  raise  the  meat  carefully  from 
the  bones,  and  divide  it  into  nice  handsome  pieces.  The  more  usual 
way  is  to  roll  the  fillets,  after  dividing  each  one  in  two  pieces,  and 
either  bind  them  round  with  twine,  or  run  a small  skewer  through 
them.  Brush  over  Avith  egg,  and  cover  Avith  liread-crumbs ; fry  as 
doughnuts.  Lift  them  out  carefully,  and  lay  them  before  the  fire  on 
a reversed  sieve  and  soft  paper,  to  absorb  the  fat ; or  place  a sheet 
of  kitchen  paper  in  a dripping  pan ; place  the  fillets  on  that  and 
set  in  OA^en  a moment  or  tAvo.  Particular  attention  should  be  paid 
to  this,  as  nothing  is  more  disagreeable  than  greasy  fish.  Serve 
hot  and  garnish  Avith  fried  parsley  and  cut  lemon.  When  a pretty 
dish  is  desired,  this  is  by  far  the  most  elegant  mode  of  dressing 
soles,  as  they  look  much  better  than  Avhen  fried  Avhole.  Instead 
of  rolling  the  fillets,  they  may  be  cut  into  square  pieces,  and  arranged 
in  the  shape  of  a pyramid  on  the  dish.  Any  fish  may  be  filleted 
as  aboA^e. 

Bahed  Sturgeon. — A piece  of  sturgeon  AA^eighing  five  or  six 
pounds  is  enough  for  a handsome  dish ; skin  and  put  in  salted 
Avater  and  parboil  for  half  an  hour  to  remove  superfluous  oil ; pre- 
'pare  a dressing  of  bread-crumbs,  fine  bits  of  fat  salt  pork,  SAA^eet 
herbs  and  butter ; gash  upper  end  of  fish  quite  deeply  and  rub  this 
forcemeat  in  Avell ; place  in  baking  dish  on  triA^et  Avith  a little  hot 
Avater  to  preA^ent  burning  and  bake  an  hour.  SerA^e  Avith  a draAvn 
butter  sauce  in  Avhich  has  been  stirred  a tablespoon  caper  sauce  and 
one  of  Avalnut  catsup  or  anchoAy  sauce. 

* Sturgeon  Steaks. — Skin  steaks  carefully  and  place  in  cold  salted 
water  for  an  hour  to  remove  oily  taste ; Avipe  dry,  broil  over  hot 
coals  on  a buttered  gridiron.  When  done  serA^e  on  hot  platter 
seasoned  Avith  pepper  and  butter,  and  salt  if  needed,  and  garnish 
Avith  parsley  and  slices  of  lemon.  SerA^e  the  latter  Avith  the  fish. 
Make  a sauce  by  broAvning  tablespoon  butter  in  pan,  then  add  a 
tablespoon  broAvned  flour  first  Avet  Avith  a little  cold  Avater  and  then 
stirred  into  a half  teacup  boiling  Avater.  season  and  add  a teaspoon 
Worcestershire  or  anchovy  sauce  and  juice  of  a lemon  ; Avhen  it  boils 
serA^e  in  gravy  boat  Avith  the  steaks. 

Baked  Trout. — Scale  and  scrape  clean  a seven-pound  Lake 
Superior  trout,  but  do  not  cut  off  head  or  tail ; Avash  inside  quickly 
with  cold  Avater  and  rub  Avell  Avith  salt  and  pepper  if  Avished ; then 
score  the  top  (back)  of  fish  by  making  gashes  two  and  a half  inches 
long,  an  inch  deep  and  three  inches  apart ; noAV  stuff  AAuth  a rather 
dry  dressing  made  by  cutting  off  crusts  from  four  or  five  slices  bread, 


286 


FISH. 


put  in  pan,  pour  over  a little  boiling  water,  cover  tightly 

with  a cloth,  and  when  soft  add  tablespoon  butter,  pepper,  salt,  an  egg 
and  the  bread  from  which  the  crusts  were  cut.  Mix  well  and  add  a 
little  seasoning  of  sage,  marjoram,  or  any  mixed  seasoning,  using 
only  a very  small  pinch ; sew  up  and  tie  securely  in  a circle  by 
placing  a string  around  the  back  of  head  under  the  gills  and  then 
around  tne  first  score  above  the  tail,  and  putting  the  tail  in  the 
rnoutli ; cutting  a few  small  gashes  in  the  side  offish  next  to  the  in- 
side of  circle  facilitates  the  shaping.  Beat  two  eggs  and  spread 
over  fish,  having  first  placed  it  on  a large  tin  or  earthen  plate, 
putting  egg  batter  well  inside  the  gashes,  sprinkle  with  finely  rolled 
cracker  crumbs  and  put  a little  butter  in  each  gash  and  more  on 
top,  unless  a very  fat  hsh.  Place  in  dripping  pan  on  the  plate  or 
trivet  in  a moderately  hot  oven  and  add  one  quart  boiling  water 
and  tablespoon  salt ; in  ten  minutes  baste  well  and  baste  every  ten 
minutes  till  fish  is  done  (in  two  hours).  Bake  slowly  first  hour, 
add  more  water  if  needed,  then  increase  heat  third  half  hour  so  that 
for  last  half  hour  the  oven  is  very  hot,  thus  nicely  browning  the 
fish.  The  basting  eveiy  ten  minutes  is  very  important  and  must 
be  done  to  avoid  a dried-up,  taste- 
less fish.  Slip  from  plate  to  hot 
platter  and  serve  at  once,  garnished 
with  parsle}".  The  marinade  given 
in  preface  may  be  used  in  place  of 
part  of  the  water,  and  gives  a fine  Fish  Knife  and  Fork, 

flavor.  To  serve  easily  carve  with  a fish  knife  and^  fork.  Treat  a 
white  fish  as  above  and  a delicious  Baked  White  Fish  will  result. 

Brook  Trout— and  drain  in  a colander  a few  minutes, 
split  nearly  to  the  tail,  flour  nicely,  salt,  and  put  in  pan,  which 
should  be  hot  but  not  burning ; throw  in  a little  salt  to  proven 
sticking,  and  do  not  turn  until  brown  enough  for  the  table.  The 
general  defect  in  cooking  trout  when  fried,  is  over  cooking.  They 
should  never  be  done  to  a crisp.  Fry  also  in  a little  butter  or  oil 
and  omit  the  flour,  frying  them  perfectly  plain.  For  Broiled  Trout 
wrap  in  a piece  of  glazed  paper,  which  should  be  well  buttered ; 
sprinkle  a very  little  salt  and  pepper  on  them ; put  them  in  a 
double  broiler  and  turn  the  broiler  over  from  side  to  side.  Serve 
with  lemon  juice  over  them.  Boiled  Trout  is  better  than  fried  or 
broiled.  Put  trout  on  a napkin,  sprinkle  with  salt,  fold  together 
and  put  in  boiling  salted  water.  If  they  are  of  medium  size  will  be 
cooked  in  two  or  three  minutes.  When  done  place  on  a clean 
napkin  on  a hot  platter  and  serve  with  fresh  butter^  and  boiled 
potatoes.  For  Baked,  Trouts  dry  the  fish,  do  not  split  then*  ; lay 
on  baking  dish,  add  a little  butter,  pepper  and  salt.  Serve  as  soon 
as  done,  which  will  be  in  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes. 


FISH. 


’ ^ 

Fried  Whitebait. — These  fish  must  he  put  into  ice  water  as 
soon  as  bought  unless  cooked  immediately.  Drain  from  the  water 
in  colander,  and  have  ready  a clean  dry  cloth,  over  which  put  two 
good  handfuls  flour.  Toss  in  the  whitebait,  shake  lightly  in  the 
cloth,  and  put  in  a wicker  sieve  to  take  away  the  superfluous  flour. 
Throw  into  a pan  of  boiling  lard,  very  few  at  a time,  and  let  fry  till 
a whitey-brown  color ; take  out  and  lay  over  the  fire  for  a minute  or 
two  on  a sieve  reversed,  covered  with  blotting  paper  to  absorb  the 
fat.  Dish  on  a hot  napkin,  arrange  the  fish  very  high  in  the  center, 
and  sprinkle  a little  salt  over  the  Avhole. 

Baked  White  Fish. — Take  out  bone  and  skin  as  in  general 
directions,  and  cut  fish  in  pieces  three  inches  long  and  two  inches 
wide.  Use  two  soup  plates  or  deep  earthen  dishes  same  size,  butter 
thickly  with  cold  butter,  place  in  layer  of  fish,  season  with  pepper, 
salt  and  a little  butter,  then  anoth.ei  layer  fish,  season  as  above 
using  mucli  more  butter  on  last  layer ; then  butter  inside  of  second 
dish  very  thoroughly  and  turn  it  upside  down  over  the  fish  ; put  ii-^^ 
oven  and  bake  twenty  minutes,  or  till  flakes  break. 

Boiled  White  Fish. — Clean,  wash  and  put  a whole  fish  in  kettle 
and  cover  with  stock  made  as  follows  : Fry  in  saucepan  two  onions, 
a carrot,  a piece  of  celery  or  celeiy  seed,  a tables;  oon  butter,  one  of 
flour,  a sprig  of  parsley,  a teaspoon  of  whole  black  peppers,  and 
three  cloves ; add  two  and  a half  quarts  of  water  and  two  cups 
vinegar,  boil  twenty  minutes,  salt  and  skim,  and  when  cold  pour 
over  fish,  and  boil  gently  until  done.  Dish  on 
hot  platter  and  garnish  with  potatoes  cut  in 
little  balls,  and  placed  like  little  piles  of  cannon 
balls  around  the  dish.  The  potatoes  should  be 
simply  boiled  in  salted  water,  and,  if  liked,  may  be  browned  in  a 
little  butter  in  frying-pan.  An  alternate  pile  of  button  mushrooms 
are  a nice  addition,  and  good  also.  Parsley  or  small  curled  lettuce 
leaves  are  placed  between  the  piles.  The  fish  may  be  stuffed  before 
boiling  with  a dressing  of  rolled  crackers  seasoned  with  butter,  pepper, 
salt  and  sage.  See  directions  for  boiled  fish.  For  Spicerl  Fish 
take  any  cold  cooked  fish=  Take  out  all  bones  and  bits  of  skin,  lay 
in  a deep  dish  and  barely  cover  with  hot  vinegar  in  which  a few 
cloves  and  allspice  have  been  boiled.  It  is  ready  for  use  as  soon  as 
cold.  For  Kedgeree^  pick  cup  cold  fish  carefully  from  the  bones,  mix 
with  cup  boiled  rice,  tablespoon  butter,  teaspoon  mustard,  two  soft 
boiled  eggs,  salt  and  cayenne  to  taste  ; place  in  oven  fifteen  minutes 
and  serve  hot.  The  quantities  may  l^e  varied  according  to  amount 
of  fish  used.  Or,  chop  two  hard-boiled  eggs  slightly  and  put  into  a 
saucepan  with  a litfie  melted  I utter,  add  fish  and  rice  as  above,  stir 
over  the  fire  until  very  hot,  taking  care  that  it  does  not  burn,  and  just 
before  serving  add  ,a  teaspoon  curry  powder  and  a saltspoon  each 


288 


FISH. 


pepper  and  salt.  Pile  high  in  the  middle  of  a hot  dish  and  sprinkle 
finely  chopped  parsley  over  the  top. 

Creamed  White  Fish. — Steam  a white  fish  till  tender,  take  out 
bones  and  sprinkle  with  white  pepper  and  salt.  For  dressing,  heat 
a pint  of  milk,  or  stock,  thicken  with  two  tablespoons  flour  and 
season  with  a little  chopped  onion  or  onion  juice  and  parsley  ; some 
add  also  juice  of  half  a lemon  or  a tablespoon  vinegar;  when  cool 
add  two  tablespoons  butter  and  two  well-beaten  eggs.  Put  in  a 
Ijuttered  baking  dish  a layer  of  fish,  then  a layer  of  the  sauce  or 
dressing  till  full,  with  sauco  last ; cover  the  top  with  bread  crumbs, 
add  a little  grated  cheese  if  Idied,  bake  half  an  hour,  and  serve  in 
dish  in  which  it  was  baked,  garnished  with  slices  of  hard-boiled 
eggs  alternated  with  sprigs  of  parsley.  In  making  the  sauce  some 
prefer  to  brown  the  flour  in  the  butter,  then  add  the  stock  or  milk 
f nd  other  ingredients.  A less  rich  sauce  is  one  quart  rich  milk 
t ihckened  with  three  tablespoons  flour  mixed  smooth  with  a little 
ef  the  quart  A milk,  two  or  three  sprigs  of  parsley,  an  onion 
chopped  fine,  nttle  cayenne  and  salt.  Stir  over  fire  till  it  thickens 
and  add  butter  size  of  an  egg.  Some  do  not  cool  the  fish  before 
creaming,  but  skin  and  bone  it,  cut  into  pieces  about  three  inches 
square,  and  bake  in  a shallow  dish  in  two  layers,  with  sauce  inter- 
vening. Serve  garnished  with  parsley  and  slices  of  hard-boiled  egg. 
This  quantity  is  enough  for  three  pounds  of  fish,  weighed  after 
being  skinned  and  boned,  and  will  serve  six  persons  if  it  is  the 
only  solid  dish  for  dinner,  or  ten  if  served  in  a course.  This 
dish  is  also  called  Fish  au  Gratin,  and  another  way  is  to  skin,  cut  off 
the  head,  and  take  out  the  back-bone,  leaving  the  fish  in  two  large 
|deces.  Season  the  fish,  and  prepare  the  sauce  as  before  ; butter  a 
tin  sheet  that  will  fit  loosely  into  a large  baking-pan,  lay  the  fish 
on  this  and  moisten  well  with  sauce,  cover  thickly  with  bread- 
crumbs, and  cook  half  an  hour  in  a rather  quick  oven.  Slip  on 
hot  platter  and  serve  with  tomato,  tartare  or  hollandaise  sauce 
poured  around  the  fish.  Cod  cusk,  flounder  or  any  kind  of  light 
fish  may  be  served  after  one  or  the  other  above  methods. 

Warmed  over  lush. — Stir  a tablespoon  flour  into  two  of  hot 
butter  in  saucepan,  and  add  a half  pint  cold  flaked  fish,  a tea- 
spoon cold  buttei,  dessert-spoon  each  anchovy  or  any  other  meat 
sauce  and  mixed  mustard,  a cup  cream  or  thickened  milk,  pepper 
and  salt  to  taste  and  a few  bread-crumbs.  Heat  to  boiling  point 
and  serve  hot.  Or,  put  into  buttered  dish  with  bread-crumbs  and 
bits  of  butter  over  the  top,  and  brown. 


FRITTERS  AND  CROQUETTES. 


289 


FRITTERS  AISTE  CROQUETTES. 


Make  the  fritter  batter  quickly  and  beat  thoroughly  until 
smooth.  A good  rule  is  two  eggs,  whites  and  yolks  beaten  sepa- 
rately, half  pint  milk,  one  level  teaspoon  salt,  and  pint  flour,  a 
tablespoon  American  cooking  oil,  or.  butter,  or  salad  oil,  and  a 
reasoning  of  cinnamon  or  nutmeg  may  be  added  if  wished ; if  the 
batter  is  for  fish  or  meat  fritters  add  a saltspoon  white  pepper  and  a 
tlash  of  cayenne.  Water  may  be  used  instead  of  milk,  with  a table- 
i?poon  or  two  of  lemon  juice  if  liked,  and  some  add  the  wetting 
^yadually.  The  batter  for  fritters  should  be  just  thick  enough  to 
'Jrop,  not  run,  from  the  spoon — do  not  make  too  stiff — and  should 
t e made  an  hour  before  using.  Some  claim  it  is  better  to  stand  a 
^.ay,  as  the  grains  of  flour  swell  by  standing  after  being  nioistened 
and  thus  become  lighter.  Add  the  whites  of  eggs — and  when 
baking  powder  is  used,  that  ixl^o—just  before  frying.  Less  eggs 
are  needed  with  baking  powder,  using  one  egg  in  the  above  batter 
with  a heaping  teaspoon  baking  powder  or  teaspoon  cream  tartar 
and  half  teaspoon  soda.  The  fritters  are  much  nicer  with  the  eggs, 
and  without  the  rising  powders,  but  it  is  convenient  to  use  the 
latter  when  p eparing  for  immediate  use.  Some  use  cracker  dust 
instead  of  flou] , thinking  it  makes  the  batter  lighter.  Arrowroot 
may  be  used  to  thicken  batters,  sauces,  etc.,  making  the  mixture 
much  more  delicate,  and  with  it  butter  can  be  omitted.  Its  thick- 
ening property  is  rbout  three  times  that  of  flour.  It  is  better  not  to 
use  sugar  in  the  batter,  as  it  tends  to  make  it  heavy,  but  sprinkle  it 
over  the  fritters  in  the  dish  when  just  ready  to  serve,  though  in 
19 


290 


FRITTERS  AND  CRO^eUETTES. 


making  fruit  fritters  some  stir  in  a little  sugar.  Fruit  fritters  are 
made  by  chopping  any  kind  of  fresh  or  canned  fruit  fine  and  mixing 
•it  with  batter,  or  by  dipping  it  whole,  halved,  quartered  or  sliced 
into  the  batter,  using  a skewer  or  fork  for  this  purpose,  and  taking 
a pint  or  less  of  any  kind  of  fruit  for  the  above  quantity  of  batter. 
The  fruit  may  be  improved  in  flavor  by  sprinkling  sugar  and  grated 
lemon  or  orange  peel  over  it,  and  allowing  it  to  remain  two  or 
three  hours,  after  v/hich  drain  and  dip  in  the  batter  as  above ; or, 
marinade  the  fruit  in  a thin  orange  or  lemon  syrup.  To  marinade 
anything  is  to  leave  it  in  a composition  long  enough  to  absorb  the 
flavor — in  this  case,  from  one  to  two  hours.  Pork  fritters  are  made 
by  dipping  thin  bits  of  breakfast  bacon  or  fat  pork  in  the  batter, 
'^he  common  practice  is  to  fry  fritters  in  lard,  but  the  American 
cooking  oil  is  much  superior  and  no  more  expensive.  It  never 
burns,  can  be  used  again  and  again,  and  keeps  clear  and  perfectly 
sweet.  Clarified  drippings  (see  index),  or  half  drippings  and  half 
lard,  is  much  better  than  all  lard.  Have  the  fat  in  which  to  cook 
them  nice  and  sweet,  and  heat  slowly.  Clarified  fat  boils  at  about 
five  hundred  degrees — more  tlian  double  the  heat  of  boiling  water — 
and  fat  actually  boiling  will  burn  to  a cinder  anything  that  is 
dropped  into  it.  The  proper  cooking  heat  is  three  hundred  and 
seventy-five  degrees,  and  is  indicated  by  a blue  smoke  arising  from 
the  surface  of  the  fat.  When  this  point  is  reached,  the  fat  may  be 
held  at  that  degree  of  heat,  and  prevented  from  burning  by  drop- 
ping into  it  a peeled  potato  or  a piece  of  hard  bread,  which  furnishes 
something  for  the  fat  to  act  up  m.  Generally  the  cold  batter  lowers 
the  temperature  of  the  fat  sufficiently  to  keep  it  at  proper  cooking 
heat.  The  heat  may  be  tested  by  dropping  in  a teaspoon  of  the 
batter ; if  the  temperature  is  right  it  will  quickly  rise  in-  a light  ball 
with  a splutter,  and  soon  brown ; drop  the  batter  in  by  spoonfuls, 
being  careful  not  to  crowd,  and  fry  to  a golden-brown,  turning  with 
a wire  spoon  to  brown  both  sides  ; if  the  fat  is  of  the  right  heat  the 
fritters  will  be  done  in  from  three  to  five  minutes  and  be  light  and 
delicious  ; if  they  should  begin  to  brown  too  much  check  the  heat 
at  once ; take  up  carefully  the  moment  they  are  done,  with  a wire 
spoon  or  skimmer,  drain  in  a hot  colander,  or  in  a pan  with  brown 
kitchen  paper  or  blotting  paper  in  the  bottom  to  absorb  the  fat,  set 
in  oven  to  keep  hot ; some  drain  on  an  inverted  sieve,  placing  paper 
both  under  and  over  the  fritters.  Sift  powdered  sugar  over  them. 


FRITTERS  AND  CROQUETTES. 


291 


some  use  a little  nutmeg  or  cinnamon  also,  and  serve  hot  on  a clean 
napkin  to  absorb  any  remains  of  fat ; or  line  the  dish  with  tissue 
paper  fringed  at  the  ends ; paper  napkins  are  nice  for  this  purpose. 
To  keep  hot,  cover  with  a napldn^  never  with  a dish-cover ; the 
former  absorbs  the  steam  that  arises,  which  would  otherwise  gathei 
on  the  inside  of  the  cover,  and  dropping  back  on  the  fritters  would 
make  them  soggy  and  heavy.  A Fritter  Doily ^ made  of  butchers’ 
linen  in  the  shape  of  a maltese  cross,  with  any  pretty  design  worked 
in  the  corners,  is  a new  and  happy  conceit,  as  the  fritters  may  be 
served  upon  it  and  the  four  ends  be  brought  up  to  cover  them. 
Always  serve  at  once  (frying  as  wanted)  with  syrup  or  honey, 
or  an}^  sweet  sauce  preferred,  for  which  see  Puddings. 

In  all  the  recipes  that  follow,  the  mode  of  testing  the  fat  and 
frying  is  the  same  as  given  above.  A tablespoon  of  batter  makes  a 
fritter  of  the  usual  size,  a teaspoon  about  the  size  of  an  oyster. 

Fritters  bear  a bad  reputation,  but  when  properly  made,  and 
tPiaten  occasionally  for  a change,  are  quite  as  wholesome  as  many  of 
ithe  messes  recommended  as  food  for  dyspeptics 


Apple  Fritters. — Make  a batter  in  proportion  of  one  cup  sweet 
milk  to  two  cups  flour,  a heaping  teaspoon  baking  powder,  two  eggs 
beaten  separately,  one  tablespoon  sugar,  and  saltspoon  salt ; heat 
ihe  milk  a little  more  than  milk-warm,  add  slowly  to  the  beaten 
folks  and  sugar,  then  add  flour  and  whites  of  eggs ; stir  all  together 
md  throw  in  thin  slices  of  good  sour  apples,  dipping  the  batter  up 
Dver  them ; drop  in  lard  in  large  spoonfuls  with  piece  of  apple  in 
Bach,  and  fry  to  a light  brown.  Serve  with  maple  syrup  or  a nice 
syrup  made  of  sugar.  Another  way  of  making  is  to  beat  three  eggs 
very  lightly,  stir  in  one  teaspoon  salt,  one-half  cup  sugar,  one  XDint 
milk,  two  cups  chopped  apple  and  two  cups  flour.  Flavor  with 
nutmeg.  Stir  all  well  together  and  fry  as  directed  in  preface ; sift 
sugar  over  them  and  serve.  Or,  peel,  steam  and  pulx^  six  good 
sized  ap]3les,  add  juice  two  lemons,  four  well-beaten  eggs,  sugar  to 
taste  and  a little  cream.  Mix  thoroughly,  roll  into  balls  with 
enough  cracker  dust  or  flne  bread-crumbs  to  keep  in  shape  and  fry 
as  above.  Serve  strewn  with  powdered  sugar.  A very  nice  way  of 
preparing  the  apples  is  to  pare  and  cut  them  across  in  slices  about 
an  inch  thick,  then  with  the  corer  remove  the  core  from  each  slice, 
leaving  a round  opening  in  the  center.  Dij)  into  the  batter  and  fry 
each  slice  separately,  lay  them  in  a dish  in  a circle  overlapping  one 
Another,  sprinkle  with  sugar,  and  serve  with  a sweet  sauce  in  the 


292 


FRITTERS  AND  CROQUETTES. 


center.  Orange  Fritters  are  prepared  as  above,  and  make  a deli- 
cious desert. 

Apricot  Fritters. — Cut  apricots  in  quarters,  remove  skins  care- 
fully and  soak  for  an  hour  in  orange  syrup,  drain  on  a sieve  and 
dip  each  piece  into  this  batter  : Mix  with  one  and  one-half  pints 
flour  two  tablespoons  butter,  two  yolks  of  eggs -and  a little  salt ; stir 
in  slowly  and  a little  at  a time  a tablespoon  more  than  a pint  luke- 
warm water,  and  work  the  batter  with  a wooden  spoon  until  it  looks 
creamy,  then  add  well-whipped  whites  of  three  eggs.  Fry  a golden 
brown  color,  place  in  a dish,  sift  powdered  sugar  over,  and  send  to 
table  with  a custard  poured  around  them,  dipping  a spoonful  over 
each  fritter  in  serving.  Fritters  may  be  prepared  as  above  with  any 
stoned  fruit. 

Banana  Fritters. — One  cup  flour,  yolks  of  two  eggs,  pinch  of 
salt,  two  tablespoons  melted  lard  or  butter,  water  to  make  a batter 
as  above.  Add  the  whites  beaten  to  a stiff  froth,  and  stir  in  lightly 
three  or  four  bananas  cut  in  slices.  Dip  with  a spoon  and  fry  as 
directed  in  preface.  Dust  with  powdered  sugar  and  serve  with 
whipped  Or  plain  sweetened  cream.  This  will  make  a dessert  for 
eight  persons. 

Berry  Fritters. — One  and  a half  pints  flour,  gill  cream,  or 
tablespoon  melted  butter,  pint  milk,  six  eggs,  teaspoon  salt ; mix 
well  and  add  either  blackberries,  currants,  gooseberries  or  rasp- 
berries and  fry  by  spoonfuls.  Eat  Avith  a hard  sauce. 

Brain  Fritters. — Beat  one  egg  and  a half  cup  SAveet  milk  with 
sufficient  flour  to  make  a thick  batter,  seasoning  Avith  salt  and 
pepper  to  taste.  Beat  AA^ell  and  stir  in  beef  or  pork  brains.  Drop 
by  spoonfuls,  and  fry  in  hot  fat.  Considered  by  some  superior  to 
oysters  cooked  in  same  AA^ay 

Ca,ke  Fritters. — Taxe  six  or  eight  stale  small  sponge  cakes  and 
roll  or  pound  fine ; pour  a cup  boiling  hot  cream  over  them  and  stir 
in  tablespoon  corn  starch  wet  with  a little  cold  milk  ; coA^er  for  half 
an  hour,  then  beat  until  cold  and  add  the  yolks  of  four  eggs,  beaten 
light  and  strained,  the  whipped  A\ffiites,  then  a quarter  pound  cur- 
rants thickly  dredged  AAuth  flour.  Beat  all  Avell  together.  Drop 
from  tablespoon,  fry  quickly  and  serve  hot  Avith  any  nice  sauce.  Or, 
make  a sponge-cake  batter,  drop  by  teaspoonfuls  and  fry  as  aboA^e. 
Serve  for  dessert  Avith  a hot  sauce. 

Celery  Fritters. — Boil  thick  but  tender  stalks  of  celery  in 
salted  Avater ; AAffien  done  dry  on  a cloth,  cut  in  equal  lengths  about 
one  and  a half  inches ; fry  in  batter  to  a golden  color,  sprinkling 
fine  salt  Avell  oA^er,  and  serA’e.  If  Avanted  extra  nice  cut  a half  dozen 
stalks  tender,  Avell  blanched  celery  into  pieces  an  inch  or  tAA-o  long 


FRITTERS  AXD  CROQUETTES. 


293 


and  boil  in  salted  water  until  tender.  'While  boiling  make  a batter 
' as  follows  : Mix  smooth  the  yolk  of  a raw  egg  and  a tablespoon 
salad  oil ; add  a little  salt,  pepper  and  grated  nutmeg,  sift  in  a half 
pint  flour  and  add  water  to  make  a batter  that  will  drop  from  spoon. 
Just  before  using  add  whipped  whites  of  two  eggs.  Dip  the  cooked 
celery  in  this  and  fry  a delicate  brown  in  hot  fat ; drain  and  serve 
at  once. 

Clam  Fritters. — Wash  one  dozen  hard  or  soft  shell  clams, 
divide  soft  and  hard  parts  of  each  clam,  boil  the  latter  in  water  half 
an  hour,  or  till  tender,  drain,  chop  fine  and  add  the  water  in  which 
they  were  cooked,  also  the  soft  parts,  yolks  of  two  well-beaten  eggs, 
saltspoon  salt,  dash  or  tAVo  of  cayenne,  half  pint  milk,  whites  of 
eggs,  and  flour  so  that  batter  Avill  drop  from  spoon  ; fry  as  above. 
Or,  make  a batter  with  juice,  an  equal  quantity  of  sweet  milk,  four 
eggs  to  each  pint  of  liquid,  and  flour  sufficient  to  stiffen ; add 
chopped  raw  clams,  or  dip  in  the  AA^hole  clam  and  fry. 

Corn  Fritters. — To  one  quart  grated  raw  sweet  corn,  (fifteen 
common-sized  ears)  add  yolks  of  three  eggs  and  scant  three-fourths 
pint  cracker-crumbs  ; if  corn  is  not  juicy  useless,  making  hatier  only 
stiff  enough  to  drop  from  spoon.  Beat  very  thoroughly,  season 
with  salt  and  pepper,  add  well-frothed  whites,  and  drop  with  tea- 
spoon and  fry ; turn  out  and  drain  as  directed.  Serve  hot,  using 
the  fritter  doily  in  dish,  or  place  an  ordinary  napkin  under  and 
over.  Some  add  to  this  batter  a piece  of  salt  codfish,  size  of  a silver 
dollar,  shredded  very  fine,  as  this  gives  the  peculiar  oyster  taste, 
and  hence  the  name  sometimes  given  them  of  Corn  Oysters.  Above 
proportions  make  six  dozen  fritters,  and  are  very  easily  made.  Or, 
for  Dried  Corn  Fritters^  grate  corn  as  above  and  dry  on  plates  so 
as  to  preserve  all  the  juice,  as  in  recipe  for  drying  corn,  or  better  on 
the  evaporator  hereafter  described.  To  make,  soak  the  grated  corn 
overnight  in  Avater  or  milk,  and  add  eggs  and  crackers  as  above. 
These  are  as  delicious  as  when  made  from  raAV  corn,  and  aa'cII  repay 
the  trouble  of  drying  the  corn. 

Corn  Meal  Fritters. — Beat  and  strain  the  yolks  of  four  eggs ; 
add  one  tablespoon  each  sugar  and  melted  butter,  one  teaspoon 
salt,  one-half  teaspoon  soda  dissolved  in  hot  Avater,  a pint  each  milk 
and  best  corn  meal,  (sugar  may  be  omitted).  Beat  hard  fiA^e 
minutes  and  stir  in  tbe  AAdiipped  AA^hites  of  the  eggs  and  a half  cup 
flour  into  AA^hich  a teaspoon  cream  tartar  has  been  sifted.  Beat  again 
thoroughly,  adding  more  milk  if  necessary  to  make  it  drop  from  the 
spoon ; fry,  drain  and  serve  at  once  AAuth  a hard  sauce. 

Cream  Fritters. — Whip  the  AA^hites  of  five  eggs  ana  stir  into 
one  cup  cream,  add  two  full  cups  flour,  a saltspoon  nutmeg, 
a pinch  of  salt,  and  teaspoon  baking  poAvder.  Beat  hard  tAVO 


FRITTEES  AND  CROQUETTES. 


'J94 


minutes,  fry  by  spoonfuls,  drain  and  serve  hot  on  napkin.  Eat  with 
jelly  sauce. 

Currant  Fritters. — Put  a half  pint  milk  into  a bowl  with  two 
tablespoons  flour,  which  should  previously  be  rubbed  smooth  with 
a little  cold  milk  ; stir  well  together  and  add  four  well-beaten  eggs, 
three  tablespoons  each  boiled  rice,  and  fresh  or  dried  currants, 
sugar  and  nutmeg  to  taste.  Beat  the  mixture  a few  minutes,  and  if 
not  thick  enough  add  a little  more  boiled  rice ; fry  by  spoonfuls  a 
nice  brown,  pile  on  a white  napkin,  strew  sifted  sugar  over  and 
serve  very  hot  with  a garnish  of  sliced  lemon. 

Egg  Plant  Fritters. — Take  a large-sized  egg  plant,  leave  on 
stem  and  skin  and  boil  in  porcelain  kettle  until  very  soft,  just  so 
that  it  can  be  taken  out  with  the  aid  of  a fork  or  spoon ; take  off  all 
the  skin  and  mash  very  fine  in  an  earthen  bowl.  When  cold  add 
teaspoon  salt,  plenty  of  pepper,  two  tablespoons  flour,  a half  cup 
cream  or  milk  and  three  eggs.  Have  fat  hot,  drop  in  batter  as  for 
any  fritters  and  brown  nicely  on  each  side. 

Grape  Fritters. — Cup  flour,  yolks  of  two  eggs,  two  tablespoons 
salad  oil,  pinch  each  spice  and  salt,  and  enough  cold  water  to  make  a 
batter  about  like  sponge  cake.  When  mixed  smoothly  add  whites 
of  eggs  beaten  to  stiff'  froth.  Dip  little  clusters  of  grapes  in  the 
batter  and  fry  in  smoking  hot  fat.  Take  up,  drain,  dust  with  pow- 
dered sugar,  and  serve  either  hot  or  cold  as  a dessert. 

Hominy  Fritters. — Mix  well  one  pint  boiled  hominy,  one  gill 
cream,  two  tablespoons  corn  starch,  two  eggs,  half  teaspoon  baking 
powder,  saltspoon  salt.  If  too  stiff  add  a little  more  cream  or  milk. 
Fry,  drain  and  dust  as  above,  and  serve  with  any  sauce  liked. 

Italian  Fritters. — With  a wooden  spatula  stir  rapidly  into 
one  pound  sifted  flour  one  and  a half  pints  boiling  water.  Add 
three  or  four  eggs,  one  at  a time,  and  beat  well  in,  thus  forming  a 
very  delicate  batter  paste.  Press  this  through  a syringe  or  confec- 
tioners’ bag  into  hot  lard,  and  as  soon  as  a bright  yellow  color  they 
are  done.  Drain  in  colander,  pile  on  a dish  and  powder  plenti- 
fully with  fine  sugar.  This  is  a favorite  dish  in  Italy,  called  there 
“cinci.”  May  be  served  with  a sauce  if  liked. 

Lemon  Fritters. — Three  eggs,  one  pint  flour,  three-fourths  tea- 
cup powdered  sugar ; beat  the  yolks  well,  add  flour  and  enough  milk 
— alK)ut  a gill — to  make  a stiff  batter ; beat  the  whites  stiff  with  the 
sugar,  the  juice  of  a lemon  and  some  of  the  yellow  peel  grated  off, 
or  teaspoon  extract  of  lemon,  and  beat  into  the  batter  just  before 
frying. 

Lobster  Fritters. — Put  one  lobster  in  two  quarts  boiling  water 
with  a half  cup  salt,  and  boil  twenty-five  minutes ; when  cold 


FRITTERS  AND  CROQUETTES. 


295 


remove  the  meat  and  fat  and  cut  into  small  slices ; put  into  a sauce- 
pan a tablespoon  each  butter  and  flour,  a cup  cream,  little  celery, 
salt,  thyme,  white  pepper,  and  a saltspoon  parsley ; let  boil  two 
minutes  and  add  yolks  four  eggs  and  the  lobster ; mix  and  set  back 
to  simmer  five  minutes ; pour  it  out  on  a well  greased  dish  and  set 
away  to  get  firm  by  cooling ; cut  into  slices,  dip  into  fritter  batter, 
(see  preface)  and  fry  as  directed.  Serve  on  the  fritters  a few  sprigs 
of  parsle}^  quite  dry,  fried  in  lard  fifteen  seconds. 

Mince  Meat  Fritters. — Mix  half  pound  (about  one  pint)  mince 
meat,  four  tablespoons  bread-crumbs  or  one  tablespoon  flour,  two 
eggs  and  juice  of  half  a lemon ; beat  well  together  and  fry  as 
directed. 

Nutmeg  Fritters. — One  cup  sugar,  butter  size  of  hickory  nut, 
one  and  a half  cups  sour  milk,  one  teaspoon  soda  and  a little  nub 
meg.  Stir  in  flour  till  thick  as  fruit  cake ; drop  a teaspoon  at  a 
time  in  hot  fat.  Very  nice  for  breakfast  with  coffee. 

Orange  Fritters. — Make  a nice  light  batter  with  one  pint  flour, 
tablespoon  butter,  half  saltspoon  salt,  two  eggs  and  sufficient  milk 
to  make  it  proper  consistency  ; peel  oranges,  remove  as  much  of  the 
white  skin  as  possible,  and  divide  each  orange  into  eight  pieces 
without  breaking  the  thin  skin,  unless  necessary  to  remove  pips ; 
dip  each  piece  of  orange  in  the  batter,  drop  in  hot  fat,  and  fry  a del- 
icate brown.  Serve  sprinkled  with  powdered  sugar.  Or,  cut 
oranges  in  slices  across,  take  out  all  seeds,  dip  slices  in  batter,  fry 
and  serve  as  above. 

Oyster  Fritters. — Drain  one  dozen  oysters  and  dry  thoroughly 
in  a towel ; make  a batter  of  two  cups  flour,  yolk  of  one  egg,  table- 
spoon salad  oil,  saltspoon  salt,  dust  of  cayenne,  well-beaten  white, 
chopped  oysters,  and  sufficient  oyster  liquor  to  make  a batter  thick 
enough  to  drop  from  spoon.  Or,  leave  oysters  whole  and  dip 
singly  in  batter,  using  a fork  or  skewer,  and  fry.  For  latter  way 
have  batter  thicker  than  if  chopped  oysters  are  used.  One  cup 
milk  may  be  substituted  for  the  liquor,  and  some  add  half  teaspoon 
lemon  juice. 

Parsnip  Fritters. — One  cup  dry  mashed  parsnip,  tablespoon 
each  butter  and  flour,  an  egg,  and  salt  and  pepper.  Stir  all  together ; 
drop  by  spoonfuls  and  fry  as  directed. 

Peach  Fritters. — (With  yeast.)  Sift  a quart  flour  into  bowl, 
add  a cup  milk  and  half  cup  yeast,  and  set  in  warm  place  to  rise. 
This  will  take  five  or  six  hours.  Then  beat  four  eggs  very  light, 
with  two  tablespoons  each  sugar  and  butter  and  a little  salt ; mix 
with  the  risen  dough  and  beat  thoroughly  with  wooden  spoon. 
Knead  with  the  hands;  pull  off  bits  of  dough  about  the  size  of  an. 


296 


FRITTERS  AND  CROQUETTES. 


egg,  flatten  each  and  put  in  the  center  a peach,  from  which  the 
stone  has  been  taken  through  a slit  in  the  side ; enclose  it  in  the 
dough,  make  into  a roll  and  set  in  order  upon  a floured  pan  foi 
second  rising.  The  balls  must  not  touch  and  should  be  light  in  an 
hour.  Have  ready  a large  kettle  or  saucepan  of  hot  lard,  drop  in 
the  halls  and  fry  more  slowly  than  fritters  made  in  the  usual  way. 
Drain  on  hot  white  paper,  sift  powdered  sugar  over  and  serve  hot 
with  rich  sauce.  These  fritters  may  be  made  of  canned  peaches 
or  apricots  drained  and  wiped  dry. 

Pineapple  Fritters. — Pare  a pineapple  with  as  little  waste  as 
possible  and  cut  into  rather  thin  slices ; soak  the  slices  four  hours 
in  a lemon  syrup,  dip  into  the  fritter  batter  given  in  preface  and  fry. 
Serve  quickly,  strewn  with  sifted  sugar.  A very  elegant  dish. 

Potato  Fritters. — Boil  two  potatoes,  and  beat  up  hghtly  with  a 
fork — do  not  use  a spoon,  as  that  would  make  them  heavy.  Beat 
yolks  of  four  eggs  well,  add  two  tablespoons  each  cream  and  orange 
juice,  two-thirds  tablespoon  lemon  juice  and  half  teaspoon  grated 
nutmeg  and  beat  all  together  for  at  least  twenty  minutes,  or  until 
the  batter  is  extremely  light ; then  add  well  frothed  whites  of  three 
eggs  and  fry  as  directed.  Serve  with  the  following  hot  sauce  : Four 
tablespoons  orange  juicC  and  half  pint  boiling  water,  mixed  with  the 
strained  juice  of  a lemon,  warmed  together  and  sweetened  Avith  white 
sugar.  Or  scoop  out  the  insides  of  four  nicely  baked  potatoes  and 
make  as  above,  using  four  tablespoons  cream  and  adding  two  of 
powdered  sugar ; flavor  with  juice  of  a lemon  and  half  the  grated 
peel,  or  a half  teaspoon  vanilla. 

Queen  Fritters. — Put  three  heaping  tablespoons  flour  into  a 
bowl  and  pour  over  it  enough  boiling  water  to  m^ake  a stiff  paste, 
stirring  and  beating  well  to  prevent  lumps.  Let  cool,  break  into  it 
(Avithout  beating)  yolks  of  four  eggs  andAvhites  of  tAvo,  and  stir  and 
beat  all  well  together ; drop  by  dessertspoonfuls,  and  fry  a light 
brown.  They  shoul^i  rise  so  much  as  to  be  almost  like  balls.  SerA^e 
on  a dish,  with  a spoonful  of  preserve  or  marmalade  dropped  in  be- 
tAveen  the  fritters.  Excellent  for  a hasty  addition  to  dinner,  AAdien 
a guest  appears  unexpectedly ; easily  and  quickly  made,  and  ahvays 
a favorite. 

Rice  Fritters. — Boil  one  cup  rice  in  one  pint  milk  until  soft ; 
add  3mlks  of  three  eggs,  one  tablespoon  sugar,  tAvo  tablespoons 
each  butter  and  flour ; Avhen  cold  add  the  Avhites  of  the  eggs  AAdiipped 
to  a stiff  froth;  drop  in  spoonfuls  and  fry  a light  broAvn.  Seiwe 
with  sweetened  cream  or  lemon  sauce.  To  make  nice  fritters  Avith 
marmalade  cook  seven  tablespoons  rice  in  a quart  milk,  with  six 
tablespoons  sugar  and  one  of  butter,  over  a sIoav  fire  until  perfectly 
tender,  which  Avill  be  in  about  three-quarters  of  an  hour ; then  strain 


FRITTERS  AND  CROQUETTES. 


297 


away  the  milk,  should  there  be  any  left,  and  mix  with  it  six  table- 
spoons orange  marmalade  and  four  well-beaten  eggs ; stir  over  the 
fire  until  the  eggs  are  set ; then  spread  mixture  about  half  an  inch 
thick,  or  rather  thicker,  on  plate  or  board.  When  perfectly  cold, 
cut  into  long  strips,  dip  in  batter  and  fry  a nice  brown.  Dish  on  a 
white  doily,  strew  sifted  sugar  over,  and  serve  quickly.  Another 
excellent  way  is  to  soak  a cup  rice«  three  hours  in  enough  warm 
water  to  cover  well ; then  put  it  into  a farina-kettle,  set  in  an  outer 
vessel  of  hot  water,  and  simmer  until  dry.  Add  two  cups  milk  and 
cook  until  it  is  all  absorbed.  Stir  in  one  tablespoon  butter  and  take 
from  fire.  Beat  three  eggs  very  light  with  three  tablespoons  sugar, 
and  when  the  mixture  is  cold  stir  them  in  wuth  a flavoring  of  nut- 
meg and  a little  salt.  Make  into  round  flat  cakes.  Place  in  the 
middle  of  each  two  or  three  raisins  which  have  been  “plumped’’  in 
boiling  water,  roll  the  cake  into  a ball  enclosing  the  raisins,  flour 
well  and  fry  in  hot  fat.  Serve  on  a napkin,  with  sugar  and  cinna- 
mon sifted  over.  Eat  with  sweetened  cream,  hot  or  cold.  Or  scald 
nine  tablespoons  rice  and  boil  it  in  just  enough  milk  to  keep  rather 
thick.  When  partially  cooled  mix  with  it  a lump  of  butter,  four 
tablespoons  grated  cheese  and  yolks  of  three  eggs.  Season  to  taste, 
drop  into  hot  fat  by  spoonfuls  and  fry  a nice  brown.  Arrange  in  a 
circle  on  a napkin  lapping  over  one  another  and  serve. 

Rye  Fritters. — Two  eggs,  three  cups  flour,  one  cup  rye-meal, 
one  teaspoon  soda,  two  of  cream  tartar,  one  cup  sugar,  a little  salt ; 
mix  with  milk  or  water,  drop  from  a spoon  into  hot  lard. 

SandioicTi  Fritters. — Cut  thin  slices  of  bread  and  butter  them ; 
spread  half  with  any  jam  that  may  be  preferred,  and  cover  with  the 
other  slices ; slightly  press  together,  and  cut  in  square,  long,  or 
round  pieces.  Dip  in  a batter,  prepared  as  in  preface,  and  fry  in 
hot  fat  for  about  ten  minutes  ; drain  and  sprinkle  over  with  sifted 
sugar,  and  serve. 

Snow  Fritters. — The  success  of  these  depends  upon  using  snow 
that  has  just  fallen  and  is  full  of  bubbles  of  air,  which  makes  them 
light.  Have  the  fat  hot,  and  make  a thick  batter  of  a pint  milk, 
level  teaspoon  salt,  and  sifted  flour  to  make  thick  enough  so  that 
when  dropped  the  batter  will  cling  for  a moment  to  the  spoon ; 
when  the  fat  begins  to  smoke,  stir  into  the  batter  very  quickly  a cup 
newly  fallen  snow  and  fry  at  once  by  tablespoonfuls.  If  the  batter 
stands  after  snow  is  added  the  fritters  will  not  be  light,  because  the 
air  will  soon  escape  from  the  batter.  Serve  with  syrup,  sugar  and 
butter,  or  any  sauce  preferred.  Some  add  an  egg  and  an  apple 
chopned  fine. 

Walnut  Fritters. — Take  two-inch  squares  of  baked  “walnuts’* 
rolled  very  thin,  marinade  in  orange  syrup  and  dip  in  batter  and  fry. 


298 


FRITTERS  AND  CROQUETTES. 


Vanities. — Beat  two  eggs,  stir  in  pinch  salt  and  a half  teaspoon 
rose-water,  add  sifted  flour  till  just  thick  enough  to  roll  out,  cut  with 
a cake-cutter,  and  fry  quickly  in  hot  fat.  Sift  powdered  sugar  on 
them  while  hot,  and  when  cool  put  a tea-spoon  jelly  in  the  center  of 
each  one.  Nice  for  tea  or  dessert. 


Croqmettes. 


To  make  croquettes  successfully  has  been  said  to  require  both 
painstaking  and  practice,  but  by  observing  the  directions  given  here 
and  in  the  recipes  that  follow,  one  who  has  never  before  attempted 
these  dainties  may,  with  a few  odds  and  ends  from  the  breakfast  or 
dinner  table,  create  surprisingly  tempting  dishes,  both  to  the  eye 
and  the  palate.  All  ingredients  must  be  thoroughly  mixed  ; when 
meat  is  used  all  bits  of  bone,  gristle,  skin  and  fat  must  be  carefully 
removed  and  meat  chopped  very  fine,  and  the  whole  mixture  made 
as  moist  as  can  be  handled.  Very  dry  or  tough  meat  is  not  suitable 
for  croquettes ; tender,  roasted  pieces  give  the  best  flavor.  When 
the  mixture  is  to  be  cooked  it  is  only  necessary  to  thoroughly  heat 
through,  and  it  must  then  stand  until  cold  before  shaping.  If  too 
moist  add  a little  cracker-dust  or  crumbs,  if  too  dry  a little  cream 
or  yolk  of  an  egg.  Use  white  pepper  for  seasoning. 

Croquettes  may  be  made  into  flat,  oval,  pear  or  egg  shapes,  balls 
and  rolls,  of  which  the  latter  are  most  easily  made,  but  the  pear 
shape  is  the  handsomest;  when  fried  and-  ready  to  serve  make  an 
incision  in  the  stalk  end  and  insert  a piece  cf  citron  an  eighth  of  an 
inch  square  and  about  an  inch  long  for  a stem, 
and  a clove  for  the  blossom ; great  care 
is  required  in  shaping  and  frying.  AVhen 
shaped  as  rolls  they  should  be  about  three  inches  long,  and  are 
made  by  taking  the  desired  quantity  of  the  mixture  and  rolling  it 
very  gently  on  a board  sprinkled  lightly  with  fine  bread-crumbs  or 
cracker-dust.  Handle  very  carefully,  slightly  flouring  the  hands, 
as  the  slightest  pressure  will  break  them.  Let  them  lie  on  the 


Croquettes. 


CROQUETTES. 


299 


board  until  all  are  finished,  when  if  any  have  flattened  they  must  be 
rolled  into  form  again.  When  croquettes  are  shaped  have  ready 
some  well-beaten  eggs  in  a soup  plate  or  shallow  dish — the  number 
will  of  course  depend  upon  the  number  of  croquettes — and  some 
finely  rolled  bread  or  cracker-crumbs  or  cracker-dust  on  a board, 
or  sheet  of  clean  brown  paper.  Save  all  bits  of  bread  for  such  pur- 
poses, and  prepare  by  drying  in  the  oven  and  rolling  mry  Une^  as 
fine  as  possible,  keeping  in  a covered  box,  tin  can  or  glass  jar,  or  in 
a closely  tied  paper  sack,  in  dry  place.  Cracker-dust  may  be 
bought  at  almost  any  grocery.  The  croquettes  may  be  single- 
breaded,  double-breaded  or  double-egg-breaded,  according  to  the 
amount  of  moisture  they  contain,  and  must  alway::  be  so  thoroughly 
encased  in  the  egg  and  crumbs  that  the  fat  may  not  penetrate  them. 

Single-ljread  coat  with  the  beaten  egg  first  (either  by 

dipping  the  croquettes  into  it  or  brushing  them  over)  and  then  roll 
them  in  crumbs,  beginning  with  those  that  were  first  egged  and 
proceeding  in  that  order  until  all  are  done.  Douhle-hreading  is 
rolling  them  first  in  the  crumbs,  then  coating  with  beaten  egg,  and 
again  rolling  in  the  crumbs.  To  Double-egg-hread^  dip  first  in  egg, 
then  roll  in  crumbs,  dip  again  into  the  egg,  and  roll  in  crumbs  again. 
The  croquettes  are  very  much  nicer  to  let  stand  fifteen  minutes 
after  they  are  crumbed  before  egging  and  breading  again,  and  from 
a half  hour  to  an  hour  before  frying,  which  dries  the  eggs  and 
crumbs  thoroughly  into  a sort  of  shell.  The  improvement  in 
appearance  and  lightness  will  well  repay  one  for  the  extra  time 
and  trouble.  When  double-egg-breading  some  think  the  croquettes 
much  handsomer  to  roll  the  last  time  in  rather  coarse  bread-crumbs, 
using  either  cracker-dust  or  fine  crumbs  for  first  breading.  It  is 
also  recommended  to  add  to  the  eggs  to  be  used  in  breading  a 
mixture  of  oil,  water  and  salt,  in  the  proportion  of  one  tablespoon 
each  oil  and  water  and  a little  salt.  Use  either  American  cooking 
oil  or  salad  oil.  Fry  in  hot  fat  or  oil,  as  fritters,  a 
few  at  a time  ( a frying  basket  is  very  convenient 
for  this  purpose),  cooking  until  a rich  brown  color, 
which  will  take  a minute  or  two ; then  take  up, 
drain,  and  serve  as  directed  for  fritters.  Or  they 
may  be  fried  in  frying-pan  in  a little  butter  or 
drippings,  but  are  not  as  nice.  In  making  croquettes  after  recipes 
given,  any  seasoning  or  flavoring  not  liked  may  be  omitted  and 


800 


CROQUETTES. 


another  substituted  for  it  or  not  as  preferred.  Croquettes  may  be 
fried  without  breading  if  making  in  a hurry,  by  simply  rolling  in 
flour,  without  using  the  eggs,  but  the  result  will  not  be  so  satisfac- 
tory or  pleasing. 

A pretty  breakfast  dish  may  be  made  of  croquettes  of  fish, 
lobster,  fowl  or  meat  in  the  shape  of  hen’s  eggs  heaped  upon  a dish 
and  surrounded  by  very  thin  strips  of  fried 
potato,  arranged  to  look  as  much  as  possible 
like  straw,  and  garnished  with  croutons  of  bread. 

Corn  fritters  and  any  good  meat  croquettes  are 
nice  served  together  at  tea  or  luncheon  on  same  platter,  neatly 
arranged  heaps  of  fritters  on  one  end  of  platter  and  croquettes  on 
the  other,  placing  two  fritters  and  two  croquettes  upon  each  plate. 


Hen’s  Nest. 


Bread  Croquettes. — Cut  the  crust  from  a stale  loaf  of  bread  or 
rolls,  and  cut  into  balls,  squares,  circles,  diamonds,  etc.  Soak  them 
in  a shallow  dish  containing  a cup  milk  with  two  teaspoons  sugar 
and  a flavoring  of  cinnamon  and  nutmeg  (some  add  a beaten  egg), 
turning  occasionally  until  the  whole  is  absorbed ; or,  soak  them  in 
a thin  custard  flavored  with  lemon-zest,  vanilla  or  rose-water.  Do 
not  let  them  become  moist  enough  to  break.  Bread  and  fry  as 
directed  in  preface,  and  serve  with  lemon  sauce. 

Chichen  Croquettes. — Take  cold  minced  chicken  and  bread 
crumbs  in  the  proportion  of  one-fourth  as  much  bread-crumbs  as 
meat,  and  one  egg  beaten  light  to  each  cup  of  meat,  with  grav}^ 
enough  to  moisten  the  crumbs  and  chicken — or,  if  there  is  no  gravy, 
a little  drawn  butter  or  cream ; add  pepper,  salt  and  chopped 
parsley  to  taste,  and  mix  with  meat  the  yolks  of  two  hard-boiled 
eggs  rubbed  fine  with  a spoon.  Mix  all  into  a paste,  shape  into 
balls  with  floured  hands,  double-bread  them  and  drop  into  hot  lard. 
Drain  and  serve  in  a heated  dish,  garnished  with  cresses  or  parsley. 
Mashed  potato  may  be  used  instead  of  bread-crumbs,  taking  two- 
thirds  as  much  potato  as  rheat.  Or,  fry  three  shallots  in  butter,  add 
half  pint  chopped  chicken,  dredge  in  teaspoon  flour,  season  with 
pepper,  salt,  mace,  j)ounded  sugar,  and  add  sufficient  white  sauce 
to  moisten  it ; stir  in  yolks  of  two  well-beaten  eggs,  and  cool. 
Then  make  mixture  up  in  balls,  single-bread  and  fry  a nice  brown. 
They  may  be  served  on  top  of  border  of  mashed  potatoes  with 
gravy  or  sauce  in  center.  Or,  chop  cold  chicken  with  a few  slices 
ham,  fat  or  lean,  add  half  as  much  bread-crumbs,  season  with  salt 
and  pepper,  a little  nutmeg,  teaspoon  each  made  mustard  and 
catsup  and  tablespoon  butter ; mix  and  work  well  together,  make 


CROQTTETTES. 


301 


into  cakes,  single-bread  and  fry ; or  another  good  proportion  is  a 
full  pint  cooked  and  finely  chopped  chicken,  one  tablespoon  each 
flour  and  salt,  half  teaspoon  each  pepper  and  onion  juice,  one  cup 
cream  or  chicken  stock,  and  three  tablespoons  butter.  Boil  the 
cream  or  stock,  add  chicken  and  seasoning  and  boil  two  minutes ; 
stir  in  two  well-beaten  eggs  and  take  from  fire  immediately.  When 
cold,  shape,  roll  in  crumbs  and  fry.  Finely  chopped  onion  is  often 
used  instead  of  onion  juice,  and  chopped  mushrooms  are  a nice 
addition.  Chopped  parsley,  thyme,  sage,  mace,  nutmeg,  or  any 
seasoning  liked,  may  be  employed,  and  some  prefer  cracker-dust  to 
bread-crumbs.  The  meat  of  any  fowl  may  be  used,  and  Yeal^ 
Mutton  and  Ham  Croquettes  are  make  in  same  way,  or  half  veal 
and  half  ham  is  a nice  mixture.  Ham  and  chicken  mixed  is  also 
good.  For  a more  elaborate  dish  make  the  'Croquettes  with 
TruiR.es : Cut  cold  roast  chicken  into  tiny  squares ; take  same 
quantity  of  truffles,  diced,  and  mix  all  with  some  thick,  well- 
seasoned  white  sauce,  into  which  has  been  stirred  some  chopped 
mushrooms,  onions,  and  yolks  of  two  eggs.  Make  into  balls  or  any 
shape  fancied,  single-bread  and  fry.  Garnish  with  fried  parsley. 

Chicken  Croquettes  with  Brains. — Chop  fine  the  meat  of  one 
cold  boiled  chicken  and  add  to  it  the  finely  chopped  meat  of  two 
or  three  calves’  brains,  first  soaking  them  in  cold  salted  water  one 
hour,  then  skinning  and  placing  in  cold  salted  water  and  a little 
vinegar  and  boiling  ten  to  fifteen  minutes ; season  the  mixture  with 
salt,  pepper,  finely-chopped  parsley,  lemon  juice,  and  a little  grated 
lemon-peel,  and  add  three-quarters  cup  butter.  If  too  stiff  add  a 
little  cream.  The  softer  and  more  creamy  they  are  the  better — -just 
so  they  will  hold  together  ; shape,  double-egg-bread  and  fry.  Serve 
with  tomato  sauce  with  sliced  mushrooms ; or,  for  a Triple  Cro- 
quette^ prepare  as  above  half  a chicken,  one  sweet-bread  boiled  till 
tender,  and  one  brain,  and  to  the  finely-chopped  mixture  add  a 
well-beaten  egg,  teaspoon  chopped  parsley,  and  salt  and  pepper  to 
taste.  Put  in  stewpan  half  pin  cream  and  add  one  tablespoon 
corn-starch,  first  mixed  smootldy  with  a little  of  the  cream,  then 
add  the  chopped  and  seasoned  mixture  and  stir  till  it  bubbles. 
Take  off,  and  when  cold  shape  and  double-egg-bread ; fry  in  basket 
as  directed  in  preface. 

Chicken  Croquettes  witti  Sweetbreads. — Take  the  white  meat 
of  a chicken  and  pound  it  to  a paste  with  a large  boiled  sweetbread 
free.d  from  sinews ; beat  one  egg  with  a teaspoon  flour  and  four 
tablespoons  cream,  and  add,  with  salt  and  pepper,  mixing  all  well 
together;  put  in  a pan  and  simmer  just  enough  to  absorb  part  of 
the  moisture,  stirring  constantly ; turn  out  on  flat  dish  and  set  in 
ice-box  to  become  cold  and  firm,  then  roll  into  small  neat  shapes 
of  cones,  rolls  or  balls,  handling  carefully,  and  fry  a delicate  brown. 
Some  add  a little  grated  nutmeg.  Or,  for  a Royal  Sioeetbreaa,  stir 


802 


CROQUETTES. 


two  tablespoons  butter  and  one  of  flour  in  stewpan  over  fire  ; Vv^hen 
it  bubbles  add  little  by  little  one  pint  creaiUj  then  the  finely-chopped 
meat  from  two  sweetbreads  soaked  five  minutes  in  boiling  water, 
and  one  boiled  chicken,  dark  and  white  meat,  seasoned  with  one 
tablespoon  each  onion  juice  (or  half  teaspoon  grated  onion)  and 
chopped  parsley,  one  teaspoon  mace,  and  salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 
Stir  till  well  heated,  take  from  fire,  add  lemon  juice  and  let  cool. 
When  cold  roll  into  shape  with  fine  cracker-crumbs  and  double-egg- 
bread  as  directed,  letting  them  stand  till  dry  after  rolling  in 
cracker-crumbs  first  time,  and  then  using  rather  coarse  bread- 
crumbs for  last  rolling.  Or,  for  Croquettes  with  Bread  Crnmhs^ 
take  after  chicken  and  sweetbreads  are  finely  chopped  and  seasoned 
as  above  (without  the  lemon  juice)  an  equal  quantity  of  fine  bread- 
crumbs. Place  in  stewpan  as  much  broth  from  boiled  chicken 
(having  saved  it  all)  as  will  moisten  the  crumbs,  in  proportion  of 
about  half  pint  to  a pint  crumbs  ; add  four  tablespoons  cream  and 
two  of  butter;  when  boiling  add  crumbs  till  they  adhere  to  spoon. 
Mix  with  meat  and  when  cool  add  two  well-beaten  eggs  and  mold 
into  croquettes ; double-bread  and  fry  as  above. 

Crab  Croquettes. — Boil  two  crabs  fifteen  minutes,  remove  the 
meat  from  the  shells  and  choj)  it  coarsely.  Melt  three  tablespoons 
butter  in  a saucepan,  stir  into  it  six  tablespoons  flour  and  add  to 
this  by  degrees  a half  pint  milk.  When  this  is  brought  to  the 
boiling  point  let  it  boil  for  two  minutes  and  take  from  fire.  Throw 
into  the  saucepan  the  meat  from  the  crabs,  add  to  the  mixture  one 
grain  cayenne,  half  teaspoon  pepper,  teaspoon  each  anchovy  sauce 
and  salt,  and  when  thoroughly  mixed  turn  it  out  upon  a plate  and  let 
cool.  When  quite  cold  form  into  small  rolls  three  inches  in  length, 
single-bread  and  fry ; serve  on  a folded  napkin  garnished  with 
sprigs  of  parsley. 

Cream  Croquettes. — Put  stick  cinnamon  one  inch  long  in  pint 
new  milk  in  custard  kettle.  When  hot  stir  in  three  tablespoons 
sugar,  two  of  corn-starch  and  one  of  flour,  the  two  latter  rubbed 
smooth  with  two  or  three  additional  tablespoons  cold  milk ; let 
cook  ten  or  fifteen  minutes,  stir  in  beaten  yolks  of  three  eggs, 
take  out  cinnamon  and  place  inner  kettle  on  table  and  stir  in  half 
tablespoon  butter  and  half  teaspoon  vanilla.  Pour  on  a buttered 
platter  till  one-half  inch  high  ; when  cold  cut  in  two-inch  squares, 
carefully  double-bread  with  cracker-crumbs,  having  the  beaten 
egg  slightly  sweetened.  Fry  as  directed  and  place  on  papered  pan 
in  oven  for  five  minutes  to  drain  and  soften  the  croquettes.  Serve 
hot  on  a hot  dish — this  is  imperative — first  sprinkling  with  sugar. 
A richer  cream  may  be  made  by  using  three  tablespoons  butter,  two 
v/holeeggs,  and  four  additional  yolks.  Either  is  simpl}^  delicious. 

Hominy  Croquettes. — Pour  one  and  a half  pints  boiling  water 
on  a half  pint  hominy,  stir,  cover  and  boil  slowly,  stirring  occasion* 


CROQUETTES. 


803 


ally  for  twenty  minutes,  or  until  the  water  is  absorbed  and  the 
hominy  rather  stiff ; add  one  and  a half  gills  milk  and  teaspoon 
salt,  stir  thoroughly,  cover  and  let  stand  ten  minutes,  cooking  again 
if  necessary,  very  slowly ; it  should  be  like  a tolerably  thick  batter, 
but  not  too  thick  to  drop.  Beat  in  a taldespoon  butter  and  pour 
the  whole  into  a shallow  pan  to  cool — if  allowed  to  get  cold  it  will 
be  too  stiff.  Make  into  balls  the  size  of  an  egg,  single-bread  and 
fry.  This  quantity  should  make  fifteen  croquettes.  Or,  to  make 
with  cold  hominy,  work  two  tablespoons  melted  butter  with  two 
cups  cold  boiled  hominy,  add  two  well-beaten  eggs  and  a pinch  of 
salt,  beat  thoroughly  and  make  into  balls  or  rolls.  Some  add  a cup 
milk  by  degrees  and  two  teaspoons  sugar.  Single-bread  them  and 
fry.  Serve  with  syrup  or  a sweet  sauce. 

LohstcT  Croquettes. — Finely  chop  the  meat  of  a lobster,  work 
in  two  tablespoons  butter — melted,  but  not  hot — then  a teaspoon 
each  anchovy  sauce  and  lemon  juice,  a little  salt,  pepper,  mace  and 
lemon  peel,  two  raw  eggs,  and  lastly  a half  cup  bread-crumbs. 
Make  into  egg  shapes,  single-bread  them  and  fry  quickly.  Drain 
thoroughly  and  serve  very  hot.  These  croquettes  are  delicious. 
The  dish  should  be  garnished  with  slices  of  lemon.  Pass  milk  or 
cream  crackers  with  them. 

Meat  Croquettes. — Take  cold  chicken,  or  roast  or  boiled  beef 
or  veal,  mince  very  fine,  moisten  with  cold  gravy  if  at  hand,  or 
moisten  well,  and  add  one  egg,  season  with  pepper,  salt,  and  an 
onion,  or  sage ; make  into  small  cakes  or  rolls,  single-bread,  and 
fry  in  lard  and  butter.  One  cup  fresh  boiled  rice  may  be  added 
before  making  into  cakes.  Or,  take  one-quarter 
as  much  cold  potato,  either  mashed  or  chopped 
pounded  fine,  as  cold  cooked  beef  or  meat 

M^at  Croquettes!  of  aiiv  kiiid,  cliopped  very  fine,  with  gravy  or 
;ream  enough  to  moisten,  add  one  beaten  egg  and  pepper  and 
salt  to  t.'rste,  with  a pinch  of  marjoram ; mix,  season,  and  form  into 
balls.  Double-bread  them  and  fry  in  hot  lard  to  delicate  brown. 
Drain  and  serve  hot.  Bread-crumbs  may  be  used  instead  of  potato, 
using  half  and  half,  or  any  proportion  wished ; or  one-third  meat, 
potatoes  and  bread-crumbs.  For  Fresh  Meat  Croquettes  take  any 
fresh  meat,  beef,  veal  or  mutton,  and  grind  through  a small  meat 
cutter,  or  chop  and  pound  very  thoroughly  to  a jelly,  then  add 
quarter  as  much  either  bread-crumbs  or  potatoes ; add  egg,  etc.,  and 
finish  as  above.  Or,  prepare  meat  as  above,  add  pepper  and  salt, 
and  one-fourth  as  much  bread-crumbs  as  meat,  moisten  with  a little 
boiled  milk  that  has  cooled,  add  one  egg,  a little  chopped  onion, 
and  single-bread  and  fry  in  a little  butter,  or  immerse  in  hot  fat. 

Oyster  Croquettes. — Take  half  pint  each  raw  oysters  and 
cooked  veal,  a heaping  tablespoon  butter,  three  of  cracker  crumbs, 


I 


304  CROQUETTES. 


yolks  of  two  eggs,  one  tablespoon  onion  juice ; chop  oysters  and 
veal  very  fine,  soak  the  crackers  in  oyster-liquor,  and  then  mix  all 
the  ingredients  and  shape,  single-bread  in  cracker-dust  and  fry. 
Tlie  butter  should  be  softened  before  mixing. 

Parsnip  Croquettes. — Boil  six  parsnips  till  tender ; when  cold 
grate  and  mix  with  two  eggs,  season  and  add  flour,  and  shape  into 
balls,  single-bread  or  not,  and  fry  by  immersion ; or  fry  plainly  in  a 
little  oil,  drippings  or  lard. 

Potato  Croquettes. — Two  cups  cold  mashed  potatoes,  two  well- 
beaten  eggs,  one  tablespoon  melted  butter,  a teaspoon  fine  bread- 
crumbs, salt,  pepper  and  a little  chopped  parsley,  or  other  seasoning 
to  taste.  Mix  well,  make  into  balls,  single-bread  and  fry.  Or,  melt 
butter  in  saucepan,  add  two  tablespoons  milk,  let  boil ; then  add 
potatoes  first  pressed  through  sieve,  stir  well  together  till  potatoes 
are  very  hot;  take  from  fire,  add  pepper,  salt  and  cayenne,  drop  in 
yolks  of  two  eggs,  and  stir  till  the  heat  of  potato  dries  the  egg ; let 
cool  and  roll  into  small  balls  with  a little  flour  to  prevent  sticking 
to  hands,  and  then  single-bread,  using  the  whites  of  the  two  eggs. 
The  yolks  give  the  croquettes  a rich  yellow  color ; if  whites  were 
added  to  croquettes  they  would  be  difficult  to  form  into  balls  and 
the  color  would  not  be  so  fine. 

Rice  Croquettes. — Put  three-fourths  pound  of  rice  over  the 
fire  in  a quart  milk  and  simmer  slowly  twenty  minutes ; remove 
from  fire,  stir  in  beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs,  a teaspoon  lemon  juice, 
saltspoon  salt,  and  three  tablespoons  sugar ; beat  all  thoroughly 
together,  turn  into  a bowl  and  let  stand  until  cool,  then  make  inta 
balls  ; beat  the  whites  of  two  eggs  until  quite  light  but  not  to  a 
firm  froth,  dip  the  balls  into  this,  then  into  fine  bread-crumbs  and 
fry.  Serve  thickly  sprinkled  with  sugar.  Or,  take  one  large  cup 
cooked  rice,  half  cup  milk,  one  egg,  one  tablespoon  each  sugar  and 
butter,  half  a teaspoon  salt,  slight  grating  of  nutmeg.  Put  milk  on 
to  boil,  and  add  rice  and  seasoning.  When  it  boils  up,  add  the  egg, 
well  beaten,  stir  one  minute,  then  take  off  and  cool.  When  cold, 
shape,  single-bread,  fry,  and  serve  very  hot.  Any  flavoring  can  be 
substituted  for  the  nutmeg.  For  nice  croquettes  without  eggs  put 
a quarter  of  a pound  of  Carolina  “head”  rice — or  nine  tablespoons — 
a pint  milk,  three  tablespoons  powdered  sugar,  butter  size  of  a 
walnut,  and  a teaspoon  extract  vanilla  into  a saucepan  and  simmei 
gently  until  the  rice  is  tender  and  the  milk  absorbed.  It  must  be 
cooked  until  thick  and  dry,  or  it  will  be  difficult  to  mold  into  cro- 
quettes. Beat  thoroughly  three  or  four  minutes  ; turn  out  on  a flat 
tin,  and  when  cold  and  stiff  form  into  balls,  single-bread  them  and 
fry.  A very  excellent  recipe  for  croquettes  when  one  has  to  prepare 
them  hastily  and  has  not  time  to  bread  them,  is  one  cup  cold  boiled 
rice,  a teaspoon  each  sugar  and  melted  butter,  half  teaspoon  salt, 


CROQUETTES. 


oU./ 


one  egg  beaten  light,  eight  crackers  rolled  fine,  and  a little  swee  t 
milk ; mix  all  well  together,  make  into  oval  cakes  and  fry  in  butte^r 
till  a nice  yellow  brown.  Syrup,  or  a nice  sweet  sauce,  should  bo 
served  with  rice  croquettes. 

T^we  Ball  Croquettes. — Boil  a half  pound  rice — or  eighteen 
tablespoons — in  a quart  stock,  broth  or  water  very  gently  for  half  an 
hour,  add  three  tablespoons  butter  and  simmer  until  quite  dry  and 
soft.  When  cold  make  into  balls  and  fill  with  the  chopped  meat  of 
a cold  fowl,  mixed  with  six  tablespoons  each  white  sauce  and  broth, 
which  should  be  rather  thick;  cover  over  with  rice,  single-bread 
them  and  fry.  Garnish  with  fried  parsley.  Oysters,  white  sauce, 
or  a little  cream  may  be  stirred  into  the  rice,  if  liked,  before  it  cools. 
Or,  for  a dessert  dish,  boil  tbe  rice  in  milk,  with  three  or  four  table- 
spoons sugar,  flavor  with  lemon  peel,  vanilla  or  bitter  almonds,  and 
make  into  balls  with  a small  piece  of  jelly  or  jam  in  the  center  oj 
each,  bread  them  and  fry. 

Salsify  Croquettes. — Wash,  scrape  and  boil  the  salsify  ti^f 
tender ; rub  it  through  a colander,  and  mix  with  pulp  a little  butter, 
cream,  salt,  cayenne  and  lemon  juice ; mix  ingredients  thoroughly 
together  to  a smooth  paste,  and  set  dish  in  ice-box  to  get  cold ; then 
shape  it  into  small  cakes  or  cones,  single-bread  and  fry  crisp  and 
brown. 

Venison  Croquettes. — Three-fourths  pint  chopped  venison,  one* 
fourth  pint  stale  bread,  crumbed  fine,  one  cup 
gravy  thickened  with  browned  flour,  one  teaspoon 
jelly,  a pinch  of  mace,  very  little  grated  lemon 
peel,  and  chopped  parsley  to  taste.  Stir  the  jelly  Venison  Croquet  es. 
into  the  gravy  with  the  seasoning ; with  this  mix  the  meat  and 
crumbs,  add  the  beaten  egg,  make  into  rolls,  single-bread  them  and 
fry.  Mutton  Croquettes  are  nice  made  same  way. 


20 


FRUIT. 


?,06 


FRUIT. 


Fruit  is  very  generally  and  erroneously  regarded  as  a luxury 
rather  than  as  a valuable,  even  necessary,  article  of  food,  and  many 
housekeepers  who  now  stint  this  supply  for  economy’s  sake  would 
do  better  to  banish  rich  pastry  entirely  from  their  tables  and 
substitute  instead  an  abundance  of  fruit.  Acid  fruits  furnish 
oxygen  in  abundance,  and  consequently  assist  in  the  assimilation 
'of  the  carbonaceous  elements  of  food.  If  the  diet  is  largely  made 
up  of  fats,  sweets  and  starchy  foods,  which  are  mostly  carbon,  a 
great  deal  of  oxygen  is  needed  to  carry  on  the  necessary  chemical 
combustion,  and  when  this  is  not  obtained  either  by  out-of-door 
exercise  or  the  free  consumption  of  fruit,  headaches  and  biliousness 
result  ultimately  followed  by  more  serious  disorders,  such  as 
neuralgia,  rheumatism,  fevers  and  inflammatory  diseases.  So  that 
for  persons  engaged  in  sedentary  pursuits  it  is  evident  that  fruit  is 
as  necessary  as  bread  and  meat.  The  hydroganic  acid  found  in 
most  northern  fruits  not  only  stimulates  digestion,  but  is  itself  a 
nerve  food ; peaches,  apricots,  apples  and  cherries  abound  in  this 
acid,  retaining  it  in  a large  degree  when  dried,  and  it  is  contained 
also  in  almonds,  raisins  and  peach  pits,  which  eaten  after  meals 
often  aid  digestion.  One  or  two  peach  pits  eaten  regularly  thus 
have  been  known  to  effect  permanent  cures  of  the  nervous  forms  of 
indigestion,  and  if  their  value  in  this  respect  were  generally  known 
they  would  not  be  so  universally  wasted.  A prominent  physician 
has  suggested  that  “Feast  on  Fruit  Freely,”  be  hung  as  a motto  in 
every  dining  room  and  taught  to  every  person.  Fruit  should  be 
eaten  at  meals  instead  of  between  meals,  and  no  breakfast,  especially, 


FRUIT. 


307 


should  be  made  without  it.  All  fruits  intended  for  immediate 
eating  should  be  gathered  before  ten  o’clock  in  summer  in  order  to 
obtain  their  best  flavor.  And  if  the  market  is  to  be  depended  upon 
the  utmost  care  should  be  exercised  in  its  selection. 

California  and  Florida  oranges  are  the  best,  a difference  of  opin- 
ion existing  among  fruit  connoisseurs  as  to  the  comparative  merits 
of  the  two,  which  rival  each  other  so  closely  that  there  is  perhaps 
but  little  choice. 

The  only  really  desirable  lemons,  aside  from  a few  from  River- 
side, California,  are  the  Messinas,  Palermos  and  Sicilys,  all  foreign 
importations,  ranking  in  the  ordeT  named.  Choose  the  heavy  fruit, 
with  clean,  smooth,  thin  skin,  of  a bright  yellow  color,  and  the 
medium  sized  lemon,  known  among  dealers  as  the  ^^360”  is  the  besh 
The  large  lemons  are  more  showy  and  expensive  but  are  apt  to  be 
dry. 

The  banana  is  the  most  nutritious  of  all  fruits,  and  is  becoming 
more  popular  every  year. 

The  plantain'  is  a tropical  fruit  of  the  banana  species,  of  the 
same  shape  and  color  but  much  larger — about  two  feet  long  and 
three  inches  in  diameter — is  of  a coarse  fibre  and  is  not  palatable 
raw,  but  very  good  fried  or  baked.  It  is  considered,  very  nutritious 
and  wholesome,  and  is  one  of  the  main  products  of  Honduras. 

The  guava  is  a fruit  not  generally  known  in  the  north,  though 
quite  a demand  exists  in  southern  markets.  There  are  several 
varieties  of  this  fruit,  some  of  which  are  natives  of  Asia,  some  of 
America,  and  some  are  common  to  both.  The  best  of  these  is  the 
white  guava,  which  is  abundant  in  the  West  Indies  ; is  rather  larger 
than  a hen’s  egg,  smooth,  yellow  and  of  a peculiar  smell.  The  pulp 
is  of  a very  agreeable  taste,  sweet  and  aromatic,  and  is  used  at 
dessert  and  preserved.  Gauva  jelly  comes  from  the  West  Indies, 
is  highly  esteemed,  and  excellent  for  giving  strength  and  tone  to 
one  after  a long  illness  or  when  digestion  is  impaired. 

Pineapples  when  w'ell  matured  are  delicious  and  wholesome, 
and  may  be  had  at  almost  any  season. 

Of  the  smaller  domestic  fruits  strawberries  may  be  had  from 
the  last  of  April  until  into  July.  The  Crescent  is  the  best  variety 
for  table  use.  Cherries  ripen  in  June  and  the  best  table  varieties 
are  the  Oxheart,  Whiteheart  and  Blackheart.  The  sweet  ^^ground 
cherry,”  as  it  is  called,  is  a fruit  but  little  knovm  in  market  though 


308 


FRUIT. 


it  has  been  successfully  grown  in  private  gardens  for  many  years. 
It  is  the  fruit  of  a plant  which  in  its  general  appearance,  habits  and 
growth  resembles  the  tomato  plant.  The  fruit  is  round  as  a cherry, 
and  about  three-fourths  of  an  inch  in  diameter  when  taken  out  of 
the  husk  in  which  it  is  enclosed.  When  ripe  the  fruit  falls  from 
the  plant  and  is  better  to  lie  in  the  husk  awhile,  when  it  becomes 
very  sweet.  It  makes  most  excellent  pies,  sauce  or  preserves,  and 
requires  very  little  sweetening.  When  dried  with  a little  sugar  it  is 
equal  to  raisins  for  many  purposes.  It  begins  to  blossom  the  last 
of  July,  and,  like  the  tomato,  continues  to  blossom,  set  and  ripen 
till  killed  by  the  frost.  Currants  include  red,  white  and  black 
varieties,  the  best  of  which  are  known  as  Cherr}^  Fay’s  Prolific, 
White  Dutch,  and  White  Grape,  and  choice  fruit  can  be  obtained 
in  almost  any  market  during  July.  The  ripening  season  begins  in 
June,  and  the  fruit  may  be  had  until  into  August.  Of  red  rasp- 
berries the  Cuthbert  is  the  finest  of  any  yet  known,  though  excellent 
fruit  is  plentiful  in  its  season,  which  is  from  the  middle  of  June  to 
the  middle  of  August.  White  raspberries  are  scarce  and  highly 
prized.  Fine  black  raspberries,  or  ‘‘black-caps,”  are  common 
everywhere  in  this  country,  as  are  also  blackberries,  of  which  the 
Lawton  ranks  the  highest.  Gooseberries  are  not  so  much  used 
fresh  at  table  as  they  should  be,  as  when  perfectly  ripe  they  make 
a delicious  dessert.  There  are  a number  of  varieties,  red,  3^ellow, 
green  and  white,  and  may  be  had  from  May  till  August.  What  are 
known  as  whortleberries  and  huckleberries  are  often  confounded 
with  blueberries,  which  are  much  superior  though  of  the  same 
species.  The  former  have  larger  seeds  and  not  so  fine  flavor  as  the 
latter,  and  are  not  so  desirable  for  any  purpose.  Blueberries  make 
a delicious  dessert  sprinkled  with  ice  and  sugar  and  served  with 
cream  as  any  other  fruit. 

Every  section  has  its  favorite  varieties  of  melons — the  earliest 
shipments  coming  from  the  gulf  coast  islands  about  June  1st — any 
of  which  make  a wholesome  addition  to  breakfast  or  dessert. 
The  nutmeg  melons  are  very  choice  and  have  long  ranked  highest 
in  market,  but  the  Japan  melon  is  a later  and  still  more  perfect 
production.  It  has  a rough  green  rind,  and  when  well  ripened,  a 
smooth,  yellow  pulp,  sweet  and  luscious.  Watermelons  are  plenty 
and  cheap  everywhere. 


FRUIT. 


309 


Of  the  delicious  peach  only  the  freestones  are  suitable  for 
table  use  when  raw,  but  the  “clings”  are  very  fine  in  compotes, 
stews,  etc.  The  vegetable  or  vine  peach  is  another  fruit  but  little 
known,  though  very  desirable.  It  grows  on  a vine  similar  to  a 
muskmelon  vine,  and  ripens  in  August.  It  is  of  about  the  size  of  a 
large  peach,  yellow  when  ripe,  and  when  peeled,  halved  and  the 
seeds  taken  out,  looks  very  much  like  a peach  treated  in  the  same 
manner ; it  makes  very  nice  pies,  and  for  sweet  pickles  and  pre- 
serves is  unsurpassed.  Apricots  and  nectarines  are  fruits  similar 
in  character  to  the  peach,  without  its  rough,  fuzzy  coat,  and  not  to 
be  compared  with  it  in  lusciousness  and  fine  flavor. 

Pears  may  be  obtained  .from  the  middle  of  July  until  well  into 
the  winter,  the  Bartlett  being  the  choicest  and  the  Winter  Nellis 
being  the  best  keeper.  The  fine-grained  pears  are  best  for  eating. 
There  are  several  good  varieties  of  plums,  the  California  and  Oregon 
fruit,  sweet,  large  and  fine  flavored,  leading. 

The  apple  is,  however,  the  staple  American  fruit,  and  no  other 
is  grown  to  such  perfection  or  can  be  so  easily  preserved  through 
the  winter.  This  fruit  is  palatable  and  nutritious,  easily  digested 
when  perfectly  ripe,  so  common  as  to  be  found  on  the  humblest 
tables,  and  may  be  prepared  in  a great  diversity  of  ways. 

The  albuminous  fruits,  such  as  cocoa-nuts,  filberts,  almonds, 
hickory  nuts,  etc.,  are  really  seeds,  and  contain  a large  proportion 
of  nutritive  matter.  Cocoa-nuts  should  be  bought  cautiously  in 
summer,  heat  being  likely  to  sour  the  milk.  The  Jordan  sweet 
almond  is  the  best,  the  Tarragon  ranking  next,  and  t]ie  ’California 
Soft  Shell  being  third.  The  kernels  of  the  sweet  almonds  are 
served  in  either  a green  or  a ripe  state  at  dessert,  but  the  bitter 
almonds  are  little  used  and  only  in  cookery. 

The  arrangement  of  fresh  fruits  for  the  table  affords  play  for  the 
most  cultivated  taste  and  not  a little  real  inventive  genius.  Melons, 

oranges,  and  indeed  all  kinds  of 
fruits,  are  apjiropriate  breakfast  dishes, 
and  a center  piece  of  mixed  fruits 
furnishes  a delicious  dessert, 
and  is  an  indispensable  orna- 
ment to  an  elegant  dinner- 
table.  Large  fruits,  or  large 
bunches  of  fruits  are  required, 
and  that  shown  in  cut  is  composed  of  pears,  peaches,  apricots,  and 


SIO 


FRUIT. 


plums  as  a kind  of  raised  ground-work,  with  a magnificent  bunch  of 
royal-purple  grapes  on  top.  The  colors  of  the  fruits  should  blend 
harmoniously  and  the  effect  should  he  fresh  and  apparently  un- 
studied, but  they  should  be  firmly  placed  so  that  when  the  dish  is 
moved  there  will  be  no  danger  of  an  avalanche.  Green  leaves  are 
well-nigh  indispensable  to  the  preparation  of  fresh  fruit  for  dessert, 
but  there  should  be  just  enough  and  no  more ; a judicious  peep  of 
one  here  and  another  there,  a tuft  of  green  on  this  side  and  on  that 
is  all  that  is  needed.  Too  many  leaves  will  utterly  spoil  the  effect 
and  render  it  inartistic.  This  garnishing  with  foliage  needs  especial 
attention,  as  the  contrast  of  the  brilliant-colored  fruits  with  nicely 
arranged  leaves  is  very  charming.  The  garnishj9(xr  excellence  ioY  des- 
sert is  the  ice-plant,  its  crystallized  dewdrops  producing  a marvelous 
effect  in  the  height  of  summer,  giving  a most  inviting  sense  of  cool- 
ness to  the  fruit  it  encircles.  The  double-edged  mallow,  strawberr}> 
and  vine-leaves  have  a pleasing  effect ; and  for  winter  desserts  the 
bay,  Cuba,  and  laurel  are  sometimes  used.  Flowers  may  be  very 
gracefully  and  artistically  combined  with  fruits,  and  a pyramid  ol 
grapes  made  up  of  Malagas,  Delawares  and  Concords  makes  a 
showy  center  piece  and  a delicious  dessert.  Rosy-cheeked  apples 
in  a firm  row  for  a base,  and  fine  yellow  pears  piled  carelessly  on 
top,  stems  upward,  with  a green  leaf  here  and  there, make  a pretty  dish. 
Apples  and  pears  look  well  mingled  with  plums  and  grapes  hanging 
from  the  border  of  the  dish  in  a neglige  sort  of  manner,  with  a large 
bunch  of  grapes  lying  on  top  of  the  apples.  Strawberries  and  black 
raspberries  in  alternate  rows,  separated  by  a light  fringe  of  green 
leaves,  in  cone-like  form,  is  another  attractive  dish.  Peaches  and 
apricots  mingle  prettily  with  green  leaves,  and  plums  and  green 
gages  set  one  another  off  advantageously  with  a judicious  addition 
of  leaves.  Attractive  methods  of  serving  melons  and  small  fruits 
are  given  in  recipes  that  follow.  Almonds  and  raisins  are  served 
together,  the  almonds  being  first  blanched,  and  then  thrown  in 
among  the  fruit.  Serve  large  nuts  of  various  kinds  together,  a 
sufficient  portion  for  the  dessert  cut  open  or  cracked,  and  all  care- 
fully arranged  in  a pyramid.  Nuts  of  any  kind  should  be  so  cracked 
and  heaped  up.  Dates  and  figs  may  be  put  together  in  a variety  of 
ways,  the  two  colors  giving  a distinct  character,  and  look  well  with 
a few  leaves  and  tufts  here  and  there.  Pine-apples  are  thought  to 


FRUIT. 


Z\1 


Pine-apple. 


be  much  more  delicious  if  sliced  and  sprinkled  with  sugar,  some 
lime  before  serving,  but  if  wished  for  a 
more  ornamental  dish  they  should  be  cut 
as  illustrated,  and  served  with  a border 
of  oranges  and  cherries  or  grapes,  with 
the  tuft  i*n  the  top  and  a few  green  leaves 
scattered  about.  A pine-apple  in  the  cen- 
ter of  a dish,  surrounded  with  large  plums  of  various  sorts  and 
colors,  mixed  with  pears  or  rosy-cheeked  apples,  all  arranged  with 
a due  regard  to  color,  have  a good  effect. 

Frozen  fruits  should  stand  an  hour  or  so  after  freezing,  and  in 
adding  whipped  cream  beat  it  in  thoroughly  with  a wooden  spoon 
or  paddle.  Fruit  creams  are  very  elegant  desserts,  and  are  made 
by  adding  double  the  quantity  of  cream  to  the  fruit  pulp,  which  is 
obtained  by  passing  through  a puree  sieve.  Whip  together,  sweeten 
to  taste,  and  serve  in  glasses  with  whipped  cream  on  top.  To  mold 
fruits,  cook  slowly  with  sufficient  sugar  to  form  a jelly — pound  for 
pound — and  turn  into  molds.  Or  to  more  perfectly  preserve  the 
form  of  the  fruit  make  a jelly  of  a little  of  the  fruit  juice  and  water, 
stir  in  the  cooked  fruit  when  both  are  nearly  cold,  and  turn  into 
molds.  One  of  the  most  valuable  uses  of  apples  is  to  employ  them 
in  conjunction  with  other  fruit — either  to  ameliorate  the  harshness 
of  damsons  or  add  to  the  flavor  of  blackberries,  and  they  are  cooked 
also  with  quinces,  green  gages,  pineapples,  apricots  and  with  rasp- 
berry or  currant  preserves.  When  used  with  the  larger  fruits 
choose  apples  of  same  size  if  possible,  and  cut  in  same  shaped 
pieces  or  slices.  An  apple-corer,  a cheap  tin  tube, 
made  by  any  tinner,  is  indispensable  in  preparing 
Apple  corers.  uppffis  for  coolviiig.  They  are  made  in  two  sizes, 
one  for  crab-apples  and  the  other  for  larger  varieties.  Rhubarb  or 
pieplant  can  be  mixed  with  any  kind  of  fruit,  half  and  half,  and  in 
a short  time  will  taste  exactly  like  the  fruit  with  which  it  is  mixed. 
Compotes  of  the  light-fleshed  fruits,  such  as  pears,  peaches,  apples, 
etc.,  may  be  handsomely  colored  by  adding  a little  currant  jelly  or 
juice,  a little  water  from  sliced  boiled  beets,  or  a few  drops  of 
cochineal  coloring.  The  syrups  for  compotes  should  boil  until  a 
little  cooled  in  a saucer  will  form  a jelly.  When  cream  is  served 
with  fruit  it  is  always  much  nicer  whipped.  A covered  jar  or  bean- 
pot  is  much  the  best  utensil  for  baking  fruit,  confining  the  steam 


312* 


FRUIT. 


Paring  Knife. 


and  requiring  little  or  no  water ; the  action  of  the  more  gentle  and 
uniform  heat  leaves  it  in  better  form,  and  the  syrup  is  clearer.  In 
peeling  fruit  the  use  of  the  paring  knife 
with  a guard,  which  prevents  the  removal 
of  any  hut  a thin  skin,  will  not  only  effect 
a saving,  hut  as  in  most  fruits  the  best  part  lies  nearest  the  rind 
will  also  insure  a better  flavor.  Sliced  fruits  or  berries  are  more 
attractive  and  palatable  sprinkled  with  sugar  about  an  hour  before 
serving,  and  then  with  pounded  ice  just  before  sending  to  the  table. 
When  berries  are  left,  scald  for  a few  minutes ; too  much  cooking 
spoils  the  flavor.  Some  think  many  of  the  sour  berries  are  im- 
proved by  slightly  cooking  them  with  a little  sugar  before  serving. 
If  a part  of  the  berries  are  badly  bruised,  gritty,  etc.  (hut  not  sour 
or  bitter),  scald  and  drain  them  through  a fine  sieve  without  presS' 
ing  them.  Sweeten  the  juice  and  serve  as  a dressing  for  puddings, 
shortcakes,  etc.,  or  can  for  winter  use.  In  using  molds  for  fruits 
etc.,  dip  in  cold  water  before  filling. 


Apples— varieties  are  almost  innumerable,  every  section 
having  its  preferred  kinds,  though  there  are  some  general  favorites, 
among  them  the  following ; Early  Harvests,  Red  Streaks,  Golden 
Pippins,  Pound  Sweets,  Belle  Flower,  Maiden  Blush,  Snow  Apples, 
Winter  Pippins,  King’s,  Spitzenberg,  Baldwin,  Ben  Davis,  Genitans, 
Rhode  Island  Greenings,  Roxbury  Russets  and  Wine  Saps.  The 
last  eight  varieties  are  all  excellent  keepers,  the  Wine  Sap  keeping 
the  longest,  and  the  Rhode  Island  Greening  is  a famous  pie  apple, 
known  and  used  everywhere.  The  others  named  are  all  excellent 
eating  and  cooking  apples.  Select  smooth,  mellow,  fine-flavored 
ones,  wash  and  wipe  dry  and  serve  at  dessert  heaped  in  fruit  dish 
with  a border  of  green  leaves,  or  with  leaves  interspersed.  A border 
of  small  fruits  makes  a very  attractive  dish. 

Baked  Apples. — Whether  plainly  or  elaborately  prepared  and 
served,  baked  apples  form  an  always  acceptable  and  appropriate 
dish  for  breakfast,  luncheon,  dessert  or  tea.  Sweet  apples  require 
longer  baking  than  sour.  To  bake  tart  apples,  wash  and  cut  out  the 
blossoms  and  stems,  and  in  the  stem  end  put  some  sugar ; bake  till 
soft,  basting  occasionally  with  the  juice  in  the  pan;  serve  either 
warm  or  cold  with  sweetened  cream  or  milk.  Or,  bake  them 
entirely  whole  and  without  paring,  pricking  with  a coarse  needle  to 
prevent  bursting.  Put  in  baking  dish,  stems  upward,  and  as  they 
begin  to  warm  rub  over  well  with  butter.  Serve  either  warm  or 


FRUIT. 


313 


cold  thickly  strewn  with  powdered  sugar.  For  Baked  Apples  with 
Syrup  take  half  a dozen  apples,  a half  pound  of  sugar,  and  little 
cinnamon,  cloves  or  nutmeg ; peel  and  core  the  apples,  put  them 
into  a deep  pie-dish  half  filled  with  water,  and  add  above  ingre- 
dients. Bake  until  fruit  is  soft  and  brown  and  syrup  thick.  When 
cold,  place  the  apples  in  a glass  dish,  pouring  the  syrup  over.  For 
an  extra  nice  dish,  pare  and  core  tart  apples,  place  in  pan  with  a 
little  water,  put  butter  and  sugar  in  cavity,  sprinkle  cinnamon  over, 
and  bake,  basting  often ; serve  with  sweetened  cream  or  milk. 
Or,  fill  cavities  with  sugar,  a little  lemon  juice  or  extract,  and  some 
thin  slices  lemon  rind ; sprinkle  sugar  over  the  tops,  baste  often, 
and  serve  cold  with  cream,  or  with  whipped  cream,  flavored  with 
sugar  and  essence  of  lemon,  or  a boiled  custard,  poured  over  so  as 
to  nearly  conceal  them.  For  Spiced  Apples  pare  and  core  tart 
apples,  fill-  center  with  sugar,  stick  four  cloves  in  the  top  of  each, 
and  bake  in  deep  Pie-plates,  with  a little  water.  For  Stuifed  Apples 
])eel  and  core  large  sour  apples,  put  in  baking  dish  with  a very  little 
water,  and  for  every  half  dozen  take  a cup  sugar,  half  teaspoon 
mixed  ground  spices,  pinch  of  salt,  two  tablespoons  each  cracker- 
crumbs  and  cream,  or  milk  ; mix  all  well  together  and  fill  the  core 
cavities,  bake  until  tender  but  not  broken,  basting  often  with  the 
juice  in  the  dish  ; serve  either  hot  or  cold  with  sweetened  cream,  or 
place  apples  in  center  of  a large  dish  with  border  of  whipped  cream 
around.  A really  elegant  dish.  Another  equally  tempting  dish 
is  Jellied  Pippins^  made  by  putting  in  baking  dish  a layer  of 
pippins  or  other  tender,  juicy  apples,  pared  and  cored  but  not 
sliced.  Pour  over  them  a syrup  of  one  cup  water  and  a half  cup 
sugar,  stirred  over  the  fire  until  sugar  is  dissolved  ; cover  closely  and 
bake  slowly  until  tender.  Take  from  the  oven  and  let  cool  without 
uncovering.  Pour  off  syrup  and  fill  core  cavities  with  bright  fruit 
jelly.  Boil  the  syrup  until  quite  thick,  and  just  before  sending  the 
apples  to  table  stir  into  it  rich  cream  well  sweetened.  Serve  with 
apples.  Y or  Blushed  Apfples^  peel  nice,  round,  tart  apples  care- 
fully, without  coring,  place  in  baking  dish  in  one  layer,  and  make 
a syrup  of  one  pint  water  and  four  tablespoons  sugar;  add  a few 
cloves,  little  grated  lemon  peel  and  small  stick  cinnamon ; pour 
over  fruit,  cover  the  dish  and  bake,  being  careful  not  to  have  them 
break.  \\Tien  done  lift  carefully  to  a handsome  platter,  and  with 
a small  brush  tint  delicately  on  one  side  with  a little  beaten  currant 
jelly.  Strain  the  syrup  and  if  more  than  quarter  of  a pint  place 
on  the  stove  and  boil  it  to  that  quantity.  When  cold  add  juice  of 
half  a lemon  and  pour  around  the  apples.  Another  simple  way  is 
to  quarter  and  core  sour  apjdes  without  paring,  put  in  baking-dish, 
sprinkle  with  sugar  and  bits  of  butter,  add  a little  water  and  bake 
until  tender.  The  proportion  of  sugar  is  a gill,  and  butter  half  size 
of  an  egg,  to  three  pints  of  apples,  and  a gill  and  a half  of  water. 
To  prepare  sweet  apples  for  baking,  wash  and  core  but  do  not  pare, 


314 


FRUIT. 


though  some  simply  cut  out  the  blossom  ends,  and  when  sure  fruit 
is  perfectly  sound  leave  entirely  whole,  pricking  to  prevent  burst- 
ing. Put  them  in  baking-pan  with  a little  water  and  let  them  bake 
very  slowly,  basting  occasionally.  They  require  several  hours,  and 
when  done  are  of  a rich,  dark  brown  color ; if  taken  out  too  soon 
they  are  insipid.  Some  keep  them  covered  while  baking,  removing 
the  cover  just  before  apples  are  done,  while  others  first  steam  them 
until  quite  tender,  then  put  in  oven  and  bake.  Serve  with  whipped  or 
plain  sweetened  cream  or  milk. 

Coddled  Apples. — A¥ash  unripe,  dark-green,  sour  apples,  and 
put  in  porcelain-lined  kettle  ; cover  with  water,  and  boil  until  ten- 
der ; pour  in  a sieve  and  cool,  throw  away  the  water  that  drains  off, 
pulp  through  the  sieve  and  add  sugar  to  taste.  Serve  cold,  pouring 
the  pulp  in  center  of  dish ; leave  it  as  it  falls,  without  smoothing, 
and  grate  a little  nutmeg  over  the  top.  To  be  eaten  with  sugar  and' 
cream. 


Creamed  Apples. — Pare  and  core  tlfe  fruit  and  either  scald  or 
bake  until  soft  enough  to  pulp  through  a colander  or  sieve  ; sweeten 
to  taste,  and  fill  glasses  three-fourths  full ; sprinkle  each  plentifully 
with  powdered  cinnamon,  and  when  cold  put 
" " ' whipped  cream  over  all,  heaping  until  it 

stands  in  peaks.  Another  nice  wa}"  of 
serving  is  to  beat  well  together  two  cups 
Creamed  Apples.  gfatcd  upplcs,  ouc  of  sugaT,  buttcr  size  of 

walnut,  two  tablespoons  water,  one  egg,  and  a bit  of  orange  or 
lemon  peel ; stir  all  over  the  fire  about  ten  minutes,  and  serve 
either  warm  or  cold  with  whipped  cream  heaped  high  over  the  whole, 
or  laid  upon  each  saucer. 


Fried  Apples. — Select  sour  apples  and  quarter  and  core  with- 
out paring  ; prepare  frying-pan  by  heating  and  putting  in  beef  drip- 
pings, lay  apples  in  skin  side  down,  sprinkle  with  a little  brown 
sugar,  and  when  nearly  done  turn  and  brown  thoroughly.  Or,  cut 
in  slices  across  the  core,  about  a quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  put  a 
little  butter  or  drippings  in  pan,  fill  with  the  sliced  apples  and  fry, 
stirring  occasionally  to  prevent  ])urning ; serve  in  dish  sprinkled 
over  Avith  sugar.  If  AA^anted  extra  nice,  cut  a little  thicker  and  fry 
like  pancakes,  turning  AAdien  broAAui : as  fast  as  fried  take  out  on  a dish, 
or  platter,  sprinkle  OA'er  Avith  sugar,  and  place  in  OA’en  to  keep 
hot,  proceeding  thus  Avith  each  panful  until  a sufficient  quantity  is 
done,  taking  care  not  to  break  the  slices.  Seiwe  in  layers  on  the 
platter,  or  neatly  placed  in  indiAudual  dishes.  Or,  for  Fried  Apples 
%oith  Porl\  fry  in  its  drippings  and  serve  arranged  in  a roAA^  around 
the  slices  of  pork,  on  platter.  A dish  of  Fried  Whole  Apples  is 
prepared  thus  ; Peel  Axn’v  small  but  prettily  shaped  apples,  leaAdng 
stems  on.  Put  into  a sancej)an  of  hot  butter,  and  shake  OA^er  a 


FRUIT. 


315 


brisk  fire  until  a nice  brown ; drain,  and  arrange  neatly,  stems  up, 
on  a thick  layer  of  sugar  in  a dish,  and  serve  either  hot  or  cold. 
Transcendent  crabs  are  verv  nice  cooked  thus. 

Frosted  Apples. — Peel  pippins,  stew  in  a thin  syrup  till  tender, 
dip  in  frothed  white  of  egg,  and  sift  powdered  sugar  thickly  over 
them ; put  in  cool  oven  to  harden,  and  serve  in  glass  dish. 

Iced  Apples. — Peel  and  core  one  dozen  large  apples,  fill  with 
sugar  and  a little  butter  and  nutmeg ; bake  until  nearly  done,  let 
cool  and  remove  to  another  plate,  if  it  can  be  done  without  breaking 
them  (if  not,  pour  ofi'  the  juice).  Ice  tops  and  sides  with  cake  ice- 
ing,  and  brown  lightly;  serve  with  cream. 


Jelliedj  Apples. — Pare,  quarter  and  core  nice  golden  pippins, 
cut  into  slices,  stew  in  a little  water  till  tender,  and  beat  to  a pulp. 
Hake  a thick  syrup  by  boiling  a pound  and  a half  white  sugar  and 
jjint  of  water  for  two  pounds  apples, 
skim,  and  put  in  the  apple  pulp  and 
juice  of  three  lemons  ; simmer  gently 
until  almost  a paste,  pour  into  a wet 
mold,  and  when  cold  it  will  turn 

oat  a solid  jelly.  Stick  thickly  with  

blanched  almonds  and  serve  sur-  Jellied  Apple  with  Almonds, 

rounded  with  whipped  cream  or  a thick  custard.  Or,  slice  the 
apples  and  put  in  pudding  dish  with  alternate  layers  of  sugar ; cover 
vfith  a plate,  put  a weight  on  it  and  bake  in  slow  oven  three  hours. 
J^et  stand  until  cold  and  it  will  turn  out  a handsome  form  of  sliced 
apples  imbedded  in  jelly. 


Marbled  Avples. — Peel,  halve  and  core  a dozen  fine  apples, 
place  in  a pan  thickly  spread  with  butter,  powder  with  sugar  and 
grated  lemon  peel,  and  bake  in  oven.  Nearly  fill  an  ornamental 
mold  with  apple  marmalade,  leaving  an  opening  in  center;  pile  the 
baked  apples  in  a ring  upon  the  marmalade,  fill  the  opening  left 
with  custard,  and  cover  the  whole  with  orange  marmalade.  Set 
mold  in  pan  of  hot  water  to  bake,  and  serve  hot.  Or,  pare  and  core 
six  or  seven  apples  leaving  them  whole ; boil  half  pint  water  and 
two  tablespoons  sugar,  put  in  the  apples  and  simmer  gently  till 
tender,  taking  care  not  to  let  them  break.  Cover  l)ottom  of  dish 
with  apple  marmalade  or  apple  butter,  flavored  with  lemon,  and 
place  apples  on  this  with  piece  of  butter  on  each,  and  a few  sppon- 
fuls  apricot  jam  or  marmalade.  Set  the  dish  in  oven  ten  minutes, 
then  sprinkle  over  with  powdered  sugar  and  brown  with  sala- 
mander. 


Meringued  Apples. — Put  one  quart  water  and  two  large  cups 
granulated  sugar  in  saucex)an.  Have  ten  ap])lcs  pared  and  cored, 
and  as  soon  as  sugar  and  water  boils,  put  in  as  many  apples  as  will 


316 


FRUIT. 


cook  without  crowding.  Simmer  gently  until  fruit  is  cooked 
through, turning  when  one  side  is  done.  Drain  and  cool  on  a dish; 
pare,  quarter  and  stew  six  more  apples  in  one  cup  water.  Turn 
stewed  apples  into  syrup  left  from  cooking  the  others,  add  grated 
rind  and  juice  of  one  lemon,  and  simmer  twenty  minutes  or  until  a 
smooth  marmalade  is  formed,  then  let  cool.  Put  one  quart  milk 
in  custard-kettle,  reseiwing  half  a cup  for  mixing  one  tablespoon 
corn-starch,  which  stir  in  when  milk  is  hot,  and  let  cook  five 
minutes.  Beat  yolks  of  six  eggs  and  whites  of  two  with  half  cup 
powdered  sugar ; gradually  pour  boiling  milk  on  this,  return  to 
kettle  and  cook  three  minutes,  stirring  all  the  time,  add  salt,  turn 
into  howl,  and  let  cool ; place  the  whole  apples  in  a mound  on  dish 
using  the  marmalnde  to  fill  up  the  spaces  between  the  apples.  Beat 
four  whites  to  a stiff  froth  with  four  tablespoons  powdered  sugar, 
spread  over  apples,  and  stick  one  pint  blanched  almonds  into  it, 
cutting  each  one  in  two  or  three  strips  as  in  Jellied  Apples.  Brown 
slowly  in  the  oven  and  let  cool.  Serve  with  the  custard  seasoned 
with  lemon  poured  around  the  base  of  meringue. 

Steamed  Apples. — Take  smooth,  rich-flavored  apples,  wash  and 
remove  cores,  leaving  fruit  whole.  Put  in  a steamer  and  cook  until 
perfectly  tender.  The  juice  in  pan  may  be  stewed  down  and 
poured  over  the  apples ; serve  either  warm  or  cold  with  sugar  and 
cream.  Sweet  apples  are  especially  nice  steamed,  and  if  liked  can 
be  browned  in  oven  ten  or  fifteen  minutes,  and  when  placed  in  oven 
put  on  each  apple  a tablespoon  of  meringue  as  above. 

Steioed  Apples. — Take  nice,  smooth,  sweet  apples  and  remove 
cores  without  paring.  Put  into  a covered  saucepan  with  cold  water, 
heat  gradually  and  simmer  gently  until  done.  It  should  take  a half 
day  to  cook  them  properly  without  breaking.  Set  away  to  get  cold 
before  taking  out.  Served  with  sweetened  cream  they  are  delicious. 
If  tart  apples  are  to  be  stewed  put  on  with  enough  water  to  cover, 
a half  cup  vinegar  and  two  cups  sugar,  and  cook  as  above.  For  a 
very  nice  dish  called  Apple  Transparency^  stew  six  large  peeled 
and  cored  tart  apples  slowly  until  tender,  in  a syrup  of  half  pound 
sugar  and  pint  water,  in  which  the  rind  of  a lemon  has  been 
boiled.  When  done  take  out  in  glass  dish  and  add  to  the  S3wup  a 
half  package  of  gelatine  dissolved  in  a gill  cold  water;  stir  until 
gelatine  is  melted,  strain  into  a bowl,  stir  in  six  drops  cochineal 
coloring,  and  when  cold  cut  into  cubes  and  place  among  the  apples, 
interspersing  spoonfuls  of  a meringue  of  whites  of  two  eggs  and  two 
tablespoons  sugar  or  whipped  cream. 

Apple  Calces. — Boil  apples  until  they  will  pulp  easily,  mix 
smoothly  with  well-beaten  eggs,  a little  cream,  some  powdered 
white  sugar,  and  bread-crumb^  enough  to  form  into  small  cakes  ; fry 
as  fritters,  and  when  a nice  I^rown  color  take  up.  When  cold  squeeze 


FRUIT. 


317 


some  lemon  juice  over  them,  lay  upon  each  a spoonful  of  thick 
cream,  sprinkle  with  powdered  sugar,  and  serve. 

Apple  Chocolate. — Boil  a pound  grated  chocolate  and  six 
ounces  white  sugar  in  a quart  new  milk ; beat  yolks  of  six  eggs 
and  whites  of  two,  and  when  the  chocolate  has  come  to  a boil  take 
it  from  the  hre  and  gradually  add  the  eggs,  stirring  well  all  the 
time.  Have  ready  a deep  dish  with  a good  layer  of  cooked  and 
pulped  apples  in  the  bottom,  sweetened  to  taste  and  seasoned  with 
])owdered  cinnamon  ; pour  the  chocolate  gently  over,  and  place  the 
dish  in  a saucepan  of  boiling  water.  When,  the  cream  is  set  firml}^ 
it  is  done ; sift  powdered  sugar  over  it,  and  glaze  with  a salamander 
or  red-hot  shovel.  This  preparation  is  not  only  very  delicious,  but 
exceedingly  salutary,  on  account  of  the  apples  being  a corrective  to 
the  too  great  richness  of  the  chocolate. 

Apple  Compotes. — Compotes  are  very  easily  prepared,  and  are 
said  to  be  the  most  wholesome  manner  of  serving  fruits  for  those 
who  cannot  eat  raw  fruits  or  the  richer  preparations  requiring  a 
larger  proportion  of  sugar.  Fresh  fruits  are  much  more  delicious 
served  raw,  but  the  compote  is  far  better  than  ordinary  stewed  fruit, 
makes  a nice  dessert  dish  that  can  be  hastily  prepared,  and  apples 
are  very  acceptable  served  thus.  A simple  way  of  preparing  is  to 
make  a syriq)  of  a pound  sugar  and  pint  water,  boiled  together 
fifteen  minutes  and  carefully  skimmed.  The  fruit  is  then  cooked 
in  this  syrup,  taken  out  when  tender,  and  the  syrup  reduced  almost 
to  a jelly  by  longer  boiling,  and  poured  over  the  fruit  when  cool. 
To  avoid  danger  of  scorching  man}^  prefer  to  first  stew  the  fruit 
until  tender,  but  not  broken,  in  clear  water,  then  take  it  out  and  add 
sugar  to  the  water  and  boil  to  a nice  syrup,  put  in  the  fruit  again 
and  simmer  gently  until  thoroughly  penetrated  with  the  syrup,  then 
take  out  into  glass  dish  ; boil  the  syrup  until  very  rich  and  thick, 
strain  it,  let  cool,  and  pour  it  over  the  fruit.  For  an  excellent  com- 
pote of  apples,  peel  and  core  twelve  medium-sized  apples,  throwing 
them  into  cold  water  as  fast  as  peeled  to  prevent  darkening,  and 
proceed  after  either  of  the  above  methods.  Any  flavoring  liked 
may  be  added  to  the  syrup — -juice  of  lemon 
and  a little  of  the  rind  is  nice — and  if  wanted 
to  cook  very  quickly  cut  the  apples  into 
halves,  thirds  or  quarters,  when  they  will  be  Apple  compote, 

done  in  from  ten  to  fifteen  minutes.  The  fruit  may  be  colored  pink 
if  liked,  by  adding  fruit  juice  or  currant  jelly  to  the  syrup.  Or 
cook  a half  quince,  cut  into  four  pieces,  until  tender  in  a pint  and  a 
half  water,  then  add  the  sugar  for  the  syrup,  and  put  in  the  apples, 
taking  up  the  quince  with  them.  This  will  color  the  compote 
beautifully,  and  also  flavor  nicely.  Some  cook  sliced  lemon  and 
raisins  in  the  syrup  and  ])our  over  the  apples.  Pass  i)lain  or 
whipped  sweetened  cream  with  the  dish.  For  a handsome  StuiTed 


318 


FRUIT. 


Compote  select  large,  fine  pippins  of  equal  size,  pare,  take  out  cores, 
and  cook  until  nearly  done  in  syrup  as  above ; drain  and  bake  a 
few  moments  in  a qui^k  oven.  When  done,  and  still  hot,  fill  the 
core  cavities  with  peach  marmalade,  and  roll  each  apple  in  the  jelly  _ 
made  by  boiling  down  the  syrup,  which  will  give  them  a beautiful 
gloss.  Serve  in  a pyramid  on  a dish  with  plain  or  whipped  cream 
around  the  base.  Or  form  into  a dome  and  cover  with  a meringue 
of  beaten  whites  of  eggs  and  sugar,  sticking  sweet  almonds  cut  into 
four  lengths  into  the  top  in  regular  form,  and  put  in  the  oven  to 
brown.  Or  pour  among  the  apples,  before  putting  over  the 
meringue,  a - marmalade  of  apples  or  boiled  rice.  Another  method 
of  serving  is  to  prepare  apples  and  syrup  as  above,  put  in  the  fruit 
and  let  cook  until  clear,  remaining  whole.  Remove  the  fruit  to  a 
glass  bowl ; dissolve  one-third  box  gelatine  in  a half  cup  hot 
water,  and  stir  briskly  into  the  syrup,  first  taking  off  the  fire.  Then 
strain  over  the  apples,  and  set  in  cool  place  to  cool.  When  cold 
heap  whipped  cream  over  it.  Some  add  sliced  lemons  to  the  syrup 
and  serve  with  a slice  of  the  lemon  on  each  apple.  Or,  for  2.  Baked 
Compote  take  golden  pippins,  or  any  similar  small  apples,  pare  and 
core,  put  into  a wide  jar  with  a cover,  and  for  two  quarts  apples 
add  rind  of  a lemon  cut  thin,  and  strew  in  a half  pound  sugar. 
Cover  and  set  in  slow  oven  several  hours.  Serve  hot  or  cold.  For 
another  elegant  compote  take  smooth,  prettily  shaped  apples  and 
put  into  saucepan  with  enough  water  to  cover ; add  a tablespoon 
powdered  cochineal  and  simmer  gently ; when  fruit  is  done  take 
out  and  put  into  dessert  dish.  Make  a syrup  of  the  liquor  by 
adding  white  sugar  and  juice  of  two  lemons  ; when  boiled  to  a jelly 
put  it  with  the  apples,  decorating  the  dish  with  lemon  peel  cut  into 
thin  strips. 

Apple  Cream. — Peel,  core  and  cut  three  pounds  of  apples  in 
thin  slices  and  put  in  porcelain-lined  kettle,  with  a half  pound 
sugar,  grated  rind  and  juice  of  a lemon,  and  a teaspoon  ground 
ginger ; simmer  slowly  until  apples  are  tender  enough  to  rub 
through  a sieve.  Scald  a quart  cream,  beat  in  the  apple  pulp,  and 
serve  either  warm  or  cold.  Any  berries  or  soft  fruit  may  be  served 
in  the  same  way,  pulping  through  a sieve  without  cooking. 

Apple  Fool. — Bake  good  cooking  apples  (not  sweet),  remove 
the  pulp  with  a spoon,  and  beat  it  up  with  a little  powdered  sugar. 
To  a cupful  add  the  yolk  of  an  egg  and  a small  sponge  cake  ; mix 
together  and  rub  through  a sieve. 

Apple  Fortress. — Take  good,  firm  apples,  that  will  not  fall  to 
pieces  when  cooked,  and  cut  into  oblong  shapes  twm  inches  long 
and  one  inch  thick ; put  into  a dish,  sprinkle  them  well  with  white 
sugar,  cover  closely  and  let  stand  overnight.  Next  day  place 
c,arefully  in  preserving  kettle  or  pan  with  more  sugar  and  water 


FRUIT. 


31^ 


and  shrea  lemon  peel,  and  cook  gently  over  slow  fire  until  done, 
but  take  care  not  to  do  them  too  soft.  When  cold  build  the  pieces 
in  shape  of  a tower  with  castellated  top,  fill  inside  with  lumps  of 
jelly,  and  on  top  place  candied  cannon,  surrounded  with  a “ditch” 
of  whipped  cream.  A really  elegant  dessert.  Begin  serving  from 
top. 

Apple  Porridge. — Boil  slices  of  white  bread  in  pint  milk ; 
when  soft  take  off  fire,  sweeten  with  sugar,  and  add  teaspoon  ginger ; 
pour  in  a bowl  and  gradually  stir  in  the  pulp  of  three  or  four  nicely 
baked  apples. 

Apple  Sago. — Pare  six  apples  and  punch  out  cores,  fill  holes 
with  cinnamon  and  sugar,  using  two  teaspoons  cinnamon  to  a cup 
sugar ; take  one  tablespoon  sago  to  each  apple ; wash  thoroughly 
and  let  soak  an  hour  in  water  enough  to  cover  apples,  pour  watei 
and  sago  over  apples,  and  bake  an  hour  and  a half. 

Apple  Sauce. — Pare,  core  and  cut  in  quarters  apples  that  do 
not  cut  to  pieces  easily,  and  put  on  to  stew  in  cold  water  with  plen- 
ty of  sugar.  Cover  closely  and  stew  an  hour  or  more.  The  addition 
of  the  sugar  at  first  preserves  the  pieces  whole.  If  they  are  pre- 
ferred finely  mashed  stir  occasionally  while  cooking  and  add  sugar 
after  they  are  done.  Flavor  with  nutmeg,  cinnamon,  or  cloves,  if 
liked,  and  some  stir  in  piece  of  fresh  butter.  Or,  for  Baked  Apple 
Sauce,  pare,  core  and  quarter  tart  apples,  put  a layer  in  earthen 
baking-dish,  add  lumps  of  butter,  sprinkle  with  sugar  and  a little 
cinnamon,  then  a layer  of  apples,  etc.,  till  dish  is  full ; bake  till  soft. 
Or,  omit  butter  and  cinnamon,  and  add  quarter  cup  water  and  half 
cup  SLlgar  to  four  quarts  jirepared  apples  ; or  two  or  three  times  as 
much  water  may  be  used.  For  Cider  xipple  Sauce,  pare,  quarter 
and  core  apples  sufficient  to  fill  a gallon  porcelain-kettle,  put  in  a half 
gallon  boiled  cider  and  let  boil.  Wash  the  apples  and  put  in  kettle, 
place  a plate  over  them,  and  boil  steadily  but  not  rapidly  until 
thoroughly  cooked,  testing  by  taking  one  from  under  plate  with  a 
fork.  Do  not  remove  plate  until  done,  or  the  apples  will  sink  to 
the  bottom  and  burn.  Apples  may  be  cooked  in  sweet  cider  in 
same  way.  For  an  Imitation  Cider  Apple  Sauce,  pare,  quarter 
and  core  the  apples,  strew  sugar  over  and  let  stand  overnight. 
Then  stew  in  their  own  juice,  and  they  will  have  a nice  flavor  and 
color. 

Apple  Snow. — Pare,  core,  and  bring  to  boil  in  as  little  water  as 
possible  six  large,  tart  apples,  cool  and  drain  on  a sieve,  add  two 
cablespoons  sugar,  beat  to  a froth  and  add  the  well-whipped  whites 
of  three  eggs,  mixed  with  two  tablespoons  powdered  sugar,  or  an 
egg  and  two-thirds  tablespoon  sugar  to  each  apple  if  wanted  very 
light  and  elaborate  ; beat  thoroughly  until  a stiff  snow,  flavor  with 


320 


FRUIT. 


lemon  or  vanilla  or  add  the  grated  rind  of  a lemon ; pile  the  snow 
in  a rough  heap  or  pyramid  and  ornament  with  bits  of  bright 
colored  jelly,  or  encircle  with  a row  of  candied  orange  or  lemon 
rings ; iserve  with  sweetened  cream,  or  make  custard  of  yolks,  sugar, 
and  a pint  milk,  place  in  a dish,  and  drop  the  froth  on  it  in  large 
flakes.  For  put  above  mixture  into  a deep  glass 

dish,  cover  with  the  ,fhipped  whites  of  three  eggs  and  three  table- 
spoons mgar,  and  brown  delicately  in  oven,  or  with  salamander. 

ApfJe  Tapioca. — Soak  half  a pint  tapioca  several  hours,  or 
overnight,  in  half  a pint  cold  water ; cover  the  bottom  of  r baking 
dish  with  pared  and  cored  tart  apples;  fill  cores  with  sugar  and 
bake  until  tender.  Put  the  tapioca  on  the  fire  with  the  rind  of  a 
lemon  cut  thin,  and  half  a pint  cold  water ; when  boiling  add 
another  half  pint  of  boiling  water,  a gill  of  sugar,  and  the  juice  of 
the  lemon  ; boil  a moment,  pour  it  over  the  apples,  and  bake  half 
an  hour  or  longer.  Or,  soak  half  teacup  tapioca  in  one  and  a half 
pints  cold  water  on  back  of  stove  as  above  ; then  place  on  the  stove 
and  cook  till  clear,  sweeten,  and  season  with  a little  cinnamon ; 
then  place  a layer  of  pared  apples,  cut  i’^  quarters  or  eighths,  in 
baking-dish,  then  a layer  of  tapioca,  thbx^  apples,  etc.,  till  all  are 
used,  and  bake  as  above.  Or,  for  Pine-apples  and  Tapioca  take 
either  fresh  or  canned  pine-apples,  chop  fine,  and  add  as  above,  or 
mix  with  the  cooked  tapioca  and  bake. 

xipple  Toast — Peel  and  carefully  core  the  apples.  Cut  slices 
of  stale  bread  about  a quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  and  cut  again  to  a 
round  shape  about  the  size  of  the  apples,  with  a paste-cutter.  But- 
ter each  slice  on  both  sides  and  place  an  apple  upon  it.  Butter 
baking-dish  or  pan,  put  in  the  apples  and  bread,  fill  the  core  cavity 
with  cream  and  sugar,  or  sugar  alone,  placing  on  top  of  sugar  a* 
piece  of  butter  size  of  hazelnut,  and  set  in  warm  but  not  quick 
oven.  When  about  half  done  fill  the  hole  again  with  the  cream 
and  sugar,  dust  with  cinnamon  and  finish  cooking.  Serve  warm. 
Or,  halve  the  apples,  hollow  out  the  cores  and  place  the  halves  upon 
the  rounds  of  bread,  fill  the  core  cavity  of  each  with  good  thick  cream 
and  strew  sugar  thickly  over  bread  and  fruit.  Place  in  slow  oven 
and  renew  the  cream  and  sugar  as  they  dissolve.  When  done 
arrange  neatly  in  a dish,  pour  over  any  juice  left  in  pan  and  serve 
warm  ; or  place  cored  side  of  apples  next  bread,  brush  with  a little 
melted  butter,  dust  with  sugar,  a little  nutmeg  or  cinnamon,  and 
bake  as  above. 

AjpTe  Tride. — Scald  and  pulp  through  a sieve  as  many  apples 
as  will  cover  the  dish  to  be  used  to  the  depth  of  Pvo  or  three  inches, 
add  grated  rind  of  half  a lemon  and  sugar  to  taste,  and  place  in 
dish.  Mix  a half  pint  each  milk  and  cieam  and  yolk  of  an  egg, 
and  sweeten  to  taste.  Set  over  fire  and  scahi  stirring  constantly, 


J'RUIT. 


321 


but  do  not  boil.  Let  stand  till  cold,  put  it  over  apples  and  finish 
with  whipped  cream. 

Apples  and  Grapes. — Strain  the  juice  from  ripe  grapes,  adding 
pound  sugar  to  each  quart,  and  boil  until  reduced  one-half.  Put 
into  this  some  golden  pippins,  pared,  cored  and  quartered;  simmer 
very  slowly  until  apples  are  done,  and  serve  either  warm  or  cold  in 
glass  dish,  or  seal  for  future  use  in  cans. 

Apples  and  Quinces. — Take  a quantity  of  golden  pippins,  cut 
into  quarters,  but  do  not  pare,  put  into  saucepan  of  boiling  water 
and  simmer  until  a jelly.  To  each  pound  jelly  add  a pound 
sugar ; then  cut  two  or  three  quinces  into  quarters,  and  cook  them 
slowly  in  the  syrup  until  tender.  Serve  in  glass  dishes  for  dessert. 

Apricot  Compote. — Make  a syrup  by  boiling  together  one 
pound  sugar  and  one  and  a half  pints  water  fifteen  minutes,  care- 
fully removing  all  scum ; put  in  twelve  apricots,  simmering  until 
tender,  taking  care  that  they  do  not  break;  take  out  carefully, 
arrange  on  glass  dish,  let  the  syrup  cool  a little,  pour  it  over  the 
apricots,  and  when  cold  serve.  For  Peach  Compote  take  fifteen 
peaches,  peel  and  stone  them,  cook  ten  minutes  and  take  out  as 
above,  boiling  the  syrup  two  or  three  minutes  to  reduce  it  before 
pouring  over.  A few  kernels  give  a nice  flavor.  To  prepare,  crack 
the  stones,  take  out  kernels  and  blanch  as  almonds.  A Damson 
Compote  is  made  same  as  apricot,  taking  one  quart  fruit.  If  a 
White  Compote  is  wished  of  peaches  or  apricots,  cut  the  fruit  in 
two,  take  out  stones,  throw  them  into  boiling  water  (a  very  little 
lemon  added)  for  two  minutes,  then  plunge  in  cold  or  ice  water, 
taking  out  immediately.  This  makes  them  white.  Peel  and  finish 
as  above.  For  a Red  Compote  add  four  tablespoons  red  currant 
juice,  or  a tablespoon  jelly,  beaten  smooth  and  thinned  with  a cup  of 
water. 

Bananas. — There  are  two  varieties,  the  yellow  and  red ; the 
former  has  a richer,  finer  flavor,  and  ranks  higher  in  market 
than  the  red,  although  the  latter  is  very  delicious,  being  more  solid 
and  nutritious,  and  by  some  prized  more  highly.  The  choicest 
bananas  are  the  Aspinwall  Lady  Fingers,  grown  on  the  Isthmus  of 
Panama.  They  are  of  a pale  lemon  color,  medium  size,  not  round, 
but  having  a sharp  ridge  running  the  whole  length  of  the  fruit,  of 
fine,  firm  flesh,  and  rare  flavor.  The  ripening  season  begins  in 
Januar}^  is  at  its  height  in  March,  and  the  supply  diminishes 
towards  midsummer,  though  in  some  localities  the  fruit  ripens  con- 
stantly, and  may  thus  be  had  the  year  round.  They  .are  often 
served  whole  on  a margin  of  green  leaves,  the  colors  contrasting 
very  prettily,  or  mixed  with  oranges,  the  red  ones  being  especially 
used  thus  ; but  it  is  considered  by  some  much  better  taste  to  peel 


322 


FRUIT. 


them,  and,  if  very  large,  cut  in  two  lengthwise,  or  crosswise  if  long 
and  not  very  large  round.  Serve  neatly  placed  on  a napkin  in  fruit 
dish. 

Baked  Bananas. — Peel  a dozen  bananas  and  split  in  halves 
lengthwise.  Lay  these  strips  closely  in  baking-pan,  strew  sugar 
and  bits  of  fresh  butter  over,  and  grate  in  a little  nutmeg.  Bake  in 
a moderate  oven  about  twenty  minutes.  They  should  come  out 
glazed,  and  if  not  syrup  enough  in  the  pan,  a little  should  be  mixed 
in  a cup  to  baste  them  with.  Serve  as  a last  course  with  cake  and 
milk. 

Fried  Bananas. — Peel  and  slice  lengthwise,  fry  in  butter, 
sprinkle  with  sugar,  and  serve.  Thus  prepared  they  make  a nice 
dessert.  The  bananas  must  be  -quite  ripe. 

Bananas  and  Cream. — Slice  the  bananas  crosswise — not  too 
thin — scatter  powdered  sugar  over,  and  before  it  dissolves  squeeze 
the  juice  of  several  oranges  over  them,  or  oranges  maybe  cutup 
and  mixed  with  them,  or  the  bananas  may  be  served  with  cream 
and  sugar  alone.  Very  nice  for  tea.  They  make  an  agreeable 
dessert  with  whipped  cream  sweetened  and  flavored  with  vanilla, 
poured  over  them.  A tablespoon  of  gelatine  dissolved  and  stirred 
into  the  cream,  gives  a little  body  to  it.  Serve  with  sponge  cake. 

Blackberry  Tride. — Stew  one  quart  blackberries  with  one 
quart  sugar  and  a half  cup  water.  They  should  cook  only  fifteen 
minutes.  When  cold,  serve  with  powdered  cracker  and  sugar  and 
cream.  The  cracker  and  berries  should  be  in  separate  dishes. 

Cherries. — This  fruit  may  be  very  elegantly  served  for  dessert 
by  picking  in  clusters  on  the  twigs  with  a few  leaves  on  each.  An 
hour  before  dinner  place  them  in  the  refrigerator,  and  when  taken 
out  they  will  be  found  not  only  refreshingly  cool,  but  covered  with 
• moisture  like  dew.  Or  treat  the  clusters  simply  in  same  way. 
If  served  plain  send  to  table  heaped  on  saucers  or  glasses  of 
pounded  ice,  one  for  each  guest,  and  pass  sugar  with  them.  Or 
arrange  in  pyramid  on  a glass  dish.  Both  red  and  yellow  varieties 
should  be  obtained  for  this  if  possible. 

Cherry  Compote. — Secure  red  cherries  because  of  their  piquant 
flavor,  and  be  sure  to  have  only  perfect  fruit.  Do  not  stem  them, 
but  shorten  the  stems  with  the  scissors.  Put  the  fruit  in  a preserv- 
ing kettle  with  white  granulated  sugar  in  the  proportion  of  a 
quarter  pound  sugar  to  every  pound  fruit,  and  add  juice  of  one 
lemon  to  same  quantities ; put  over  slow  fire  and  hoil  three 
minutes, 'removing  all  scum  and  shaking  occasionally;  take  out 
fruit  with  a spoon,  put  in  a bowl  and  carefully  drain  off*  all  syrup, 
which  should  be  reduced  by  further  boiling.  To  thicken  th«  syrup 


FRUIT. 


323 


a little  isinglass  or  gelatine  may  be  used,  but  it  is  better  without,  as 
the  thin  jelly  of  pure  syrup  is  beautifully  transparent.  Pour  this 
syrup  or  jelly  into  a dish  to  cool,  and  when  ready  to  serve  the  com- 
pote pile  the  cherries  in  a pyramid  and  turn  the  syrup  over  them. 
Or,  prepare  cherries  the  same,  take  four  tablespoons  sugar  and  a 
pint  water  to  one  quart  cherries,  put  in  a saucepan,  let  boil,  and 
skim ; add  a half  cup  raspberry  juice,  put  in  the  cherries  and  cook 
until  tender ; pile  them  on  a glass  dish,  reduce  the  syrup  to  a thin 
jelly,  and  when  cool  pour  over  them. 

Cherry  Sauce. — To  every  pound  well  ripened,  stoned  cherries 
add  a half  pound  sugar,  melted  and  poured  over  boiling  hot.  Put 
on  ice  till  cold  and  serve. 

Currants. — Select  fine  large  red  and  white  currants  and  arrange 
in  alternate  rows  in  pyramidal  form  on  glass  dish,  placing  the  red 
on  bottom,  with  a border  of  green  leaves  outside,  as 
shown  in  cut.  Sprinkle  liberally  throughout  with 
sugar,  set  in  refrigerator  until  ready  to  serA^e,  when 
dust  fine  granulated  sugar  thickly  over,  Avhich  ivill 
cling  to  the  currants,  that  will  have  become  damp  in  the 
Currant  Pyramid.  ICO  box,  and  give  a pretty  frost-like  effect.  Raspberries 
may  be  serA^ed  in  same  way,  either  red  and  Avhite,  red  and  black,  or 
alternate  layers  of  each.  Currants  are  also  nice  served  in  large  fine 
clusters  heaped  on  fruit  dish,  ahvays  cooling  on  ice  before  sending 
to  table ; or  intersperse  with  layers  of  raspberries  or  other  seasonable 
fruits. 

Gooseberry  Compote.— one  quart  berries,  which  should 
not  be  very  ripe,  and  pour  boiling  water  over  them ; take  out  and 
lunge  them  into  cold  Avater,  Avith  Avhich  a tablespoon  .of  vinegar 
as  been  mixed,  Avhich  Avill  help  preserve  the  color  of  the  fruit. 
Boil  together  half  pint  sugar  and  scant  three-fourths  pint  water, 
skimming  Avell ; drain  the  gooseberries  and  put  them  in,  simmer 
gently  until  nicely  pulped  and  tender,  without  being  broken ; then 
take  out  on  glass  dish,  boil  the  syrup  tAvo  or  three  minutes,  pour 
over  the  gooseberries,  and  serve  cold.  Compote  of  Green  Gages  is 
made  the  same,  carefully  stemming  and  stoning  the  fruit,  Avhich 
will  cook  in  one-third  the  time  required  for  gooseberries. 

Gooseberry  Fool. — Stem  the  gooseberries  and  cut  off*  tops  ; put 
in  a jar  with  tAvo  tablespoons  AA^ater  and  a little  sugar,  set  the  jar  in 
a saucepan  of  boiling  AA^ater,  and  let  boil  until  the  fruit  is  soft  enough 
to  mash  ; or  simply  steAV  the  fruit,  pulp  through  a colander  or  sieve, 
and  to  every  pint  add  a pint  milk,  or  e(|ual  quantities  milk  and  cream. 
SAveeten  Avell  or  it  Avill  not  be  eatable,  and  in  mixing  add  the  milk 
very  gradually ; serve  in  a glass  dish  or  in  small  glasses.  This  old- 
fashioned  dish  is  very  delicious  Avhen  Avell  made,  and  if  properly 


324 


FRUIT. 


sweetened  a very  nice  relish  for  children.  A boiled  custard  may  he. 
stirred  in  instead  of  the  cream,  and  a less  quantity  of  cream  may  be 
used — a gill  to  a quart  of  pulp — stirring  in  carefully  just  before 
serving. 

Gooseberry  Trifle. — Put  a quart  gooseberries  into  a jar,  sweeten 
to  taste,  and  boil  until  reduced  to  pulp.  Put  this 
in  the  bottom  of  a high  glass  dish,  pour  over  it 
a pint  of  boiled  custard,  and  when  cold  cover 
with  whipped  cream.  The  cream  should  be 
whi])ped  the  day  before  it  is  wanted  for  table,  as 
it  will  then  be  much  firmer  and  more  solid.  Gar- 
nish in  any  manner  liked,  with  bits  of  jelly,  or 
sliced  almonds,  etc. 

Grapes. — The  finest  native  ones  are  the  Con- 
cords, Delawares  and  Catawbas,  the  former  of 
which  is  generally  considered  most  desirable,  and  ripens  about 
August  1st.  The  Delawares  are  marketed  about  the  same  time,  and 
the  Catawbas  a little  later.  Later  varieties  come  into  market  the 
last  of  September,  and  may  be  had  during  October.  California 
grapes  are  shipped  during  August,  Septenaber  and  October,  the 
finest  varieties  of  which  are  the  Tokays,  White  Muscats,  Rose  Peru 
and  Black  Morocco.  These  are  very  showy,  but  not  of  so  fine  a 
flavor  as  the  fruit  from  the  middle  states.  Wild  grapes  are  abun- 
dant from  September  to  November,  but  are  not  suited  to  table  use 
Avdien  fresh.  Foreign  grapes  may  be  had  at  the  fruit  stores  through- 
out the  winter.  The  Malaga  leads  all  foreign  grapes,  and  comes 
packed  in  cork-dust,  which  is  a non-conductor  of  heat  and  absorbent 
of  moisture,  and  so  is  always  in  good  condition.  If  left  in  the 
cork-dust  this  fruit  will  keep  three  months  in  prime  order.  When 
used  rinse  well  in  ice-water,  and  place  on  a glass  dish  or  dishes  sur- 
rounded by  fine  ice  ; if  plentiful  do  not  divide  clusters,  but  serve  a 
bunch  for  each  guest. 

Jellied  Grapes. — A very  delicate  dish  is  made  of  one-third  cup 
rice,  two  cups  stemmed  grapes,  half  cup  water,  and  two  tablespoons 
sugar.  Sprinkle  rice  and  sugar  among  the  grapes,  while  placing  in 
a deep  dish ; pour  on  the  water,  cover  closely  and  simmer  two  hours 
slowly  in  the  oven.  Serve  cold  at  dessert. 

Florida  Grape-Fruit. — This  is  a new,  clear-skinned,  lemon- 
colored  fruit,  about  three  times  as  large  as  an  orange,  and  bearing  a 
general  resemblance  to  that  fruit.  Its  flavor  is  sub-acid,  but  its 
juicy  pulp  is  enclosed  in  a tough  white  membrane  of  intensely  bitter 
taste ; when  this  membrane  is  removed  the  fruit  is  delicious.  To 
prepare  it  for  the  table,  cut  the  skin  in  sections  and  j^eel  it  off ; sep- 
arate the  sections  as  you  would  those  of  an  orange,  and  holding 


FRUIT. 


each  one  by  the  ends,  break  it  open  from  the  center,  disclosing  the 
pulp ; tear  this  out  of  the  bitter  Avhite  membrane  which  covers  the 
sections,  carefully  removing  every  part  of  it ; keep  the  pulp  as  un- 
broken as  possible,  and  put  ’it  into  a deep  dish  with  a plentiful 
sprinkling  of  fine  sugar.  Let  it  stand  three  or  four  hours,  or  over- 
night, and  then  use  the  fruit.  It  is  refreshing  and  wholesome. 

Oranges. — The  finest  California  oranges  are  known  as  the  Cali- 
fornia Riverside  varieties,  including  the  Naval  s,  smooth,  sweet,  lus- 
cious fruit,  without  seeds,  the  Mediterranean  Sweets,  and  the  Seed- 
lings. The  Paper-rind  is  also  a California  Orange,  small,  but  sweet, 
and  very  desirable  for  table  use.  Of  the  Florida  fruit  the  Indian  River 
oranges  rank  first,  the  choicest  of  which  is  the  Florida  Bright.  The 
Florida  oranges  appear  in  market  in  December,  and  may  be  had  in 
their  perfection  until  about  February  1st,  after  which  date  they  be- 
come too  ripe  and  spongy  to  be  desirable.  The  California  fruit  be- 
gins ripening  in  December  and  may  be  had  until  late  in  June  in 
excellent  condition.  The  summer  market  is  thus  principally  sup- 
plied by  foreign  importations,  of  which  the  Messinas  and  Rodas  are 
the  best  varieties,  though  neither  are  so  fine  as  the  fruits  above 
mentioned,  and  are  liable  to  be  dry  and  pulpy.  The  Seville  orange 
is  a bitter,  acid  fruit,  used  to  some  extent  in  cooking,  but  unfit  for 
trade  use.  When  buying  oranges  select  from  unwrapped  fruit,  if 
possible,  those  that  are  solid  and  heavy,  with  a smooth,  thin  skin, 
of  a deep  yellow  red  color.  To  remove  any  stale  flavor  absorbed 
from  contact  with  decayed  fruit,  or  from  the  odor  of  the  box,  wash 
lightly  with  a sponge  in  very  cold  water,  dry  with  a soft  towel  with- 
out rubbing,  wrap  again  in  clean,  soft  paper,  and  put  away  until 
wanted  for  use  in  a closely-covered  tin  box  or  stone  crock  or  a drawer, 
in  a cool,  dry  closet.  Lemons  should  be  cared  for  in  same  manner. 
To  serve  oranges  whole  for  breakfast  or  dessert  cut  the  peel  in  six  or 
eight  equal  pieces,  making  the  incisions  from  the  stem  downward  ; 
peel  each  piece  down  about  half  way,  and  liend  it  sharply  to  the 
right,  leaving  the  peeled  orange  apparently  in  a cup,  from  which  it 
is  removed  without  much  difficulty.  For  an  elegant  center  piece 
pile  the  oranges  so  prepared  in  a pyramid  on  a high  fruit  dish  with 
bananas  and  white  grapes,  if  obtainable.  They  are  also  very  nice 
peeled  and  sliced  with  seeds  and  pith  removed,  and  sprinkled  with 
sugar  two  or  three  hours  before  serving  for  either  dessert  or  tea. 
Some  strew  grated  cocoa-nut  over  the  top. 


Orange  Compote. — Peel  six  oranges,  remove  as  much  of  the 
white  pith  as  possible,  and  divide  them  into  small  pieces  without 
breaking  the  thin  skin  enclosing  them.  Make  a syrup  of  half  pound 
sugar  and  scant  three-fourths  pint  water, 
skimming  well,  adding  the  rind  of  the  orange 
cut  into  thin  narrow  stri])s.  When  the  syrup 
has  been  well  skimmed  and  is  quite  clear, 
orange  and  simmer  five  minutes.  Take  out 


put 


Orange  Compote. 

in  the  pieces  of 


826 


FRUIT. 


carefully  with  a spoon  without  breaking  them  and  arrange  on  a 
glass  dish.  Reduce  the  syrup  by  boiling  it  quickly  until  thick ; let 
cool  a little,  pour  it  over  the  oranges,  and  serve  cold.  For  a very 
delicious  compote,  peel  and  remove  the  pulp  of  eight  large  oranges, 
divide  as  above,  squeeze  the  juice  from  four  more  over  three- 
quarters  pound  sifted  sugar  and  the  rind  of  one  orange  cut  in  strips, 
removing  all  the  pulp.  Put  the  pieces  of  orange  in  the  syrup,  boil 
about  six  minutes,  drain,  boil  the  syrup  until  it  thickens,  dish  fruit 
and  pour  the  syrup  over.  Or,  peel  and  cut  the  oranges  into  slices 
crosswise,  and  remove  seeds.  Make  a thick  syrup  as  directed  in 
apple  compote,  and,  when  cold,  pour  it  over  the  sliced  oranges, 
which  are  not  cooked. 

Orange  Float. — One  quart  water,  juice  and  pulp  of  two  lemons, 
coffee-cup  sugar ; when  boiling  add  four  tablespoons  corn-starch, 
let  boil  fifteen  minutes,  stirring  all  the  time ; when  cold  pour  it  OA^er 
four  or  fiA^e  peeled  and  sliced  oranges,  and  oA^er  the  top  spread  the 
beaten  Avhites  of  three  eggs ; sAveeten  and  add  a few  drops  vanilla. 

Orange  Fool. — Mix  the  juice  of  three  Seville  oranges,  three  Avell- 
beaten  eggs,  a pint  cream,  and  a little  nutmeg  and  cinnamon  and 
SAveeten  to  taste.  Set  over  a sIoav  fire  and  stir  till  thick  as  cream, 
but  do  not  let  boil ; then  pour  into  a dish  and  set  by  till  cold.  An 
excellent  dessert  dish. 

Orange  Snoio. — IMix  the  juice  of  four  oranges  and  grated  peel 
of  one  Avith  a large  cup  powdered  sugar  and  a package  gelatine, 
soaked  in  cup  cold  water ; let  stand  an  hour,  add  a pint  boiling 
water,  stirring  until  clear,  and  strain  through  a coarse  cloth,  Avring- 
ing  hard.  When  cold  AA^hip  in  stiffly  frothed  Avhites  four  eggs,  place 
in  a mold,  Avbich  Avas  first  rinsed  Avith  water,  and  let  stand  six  or 
eight  hours.  Some  add  the  juice  and  grated  peel  of  a lemon. 

Peaches. — The  first  crop  marketed  is  from  Mississippi,  picked 
.^bout  May  1st.  Tennessee  peaches  may  be  had  in  June,  and  Cali- 
fornia fruit  appears  about  July  1st.  The  finest  peaches,  hoAvcA'Cr, 
are  groAvn  in  Michigan  and  Maryland,  and  are  marketed  during 
August,  the  supply  lasting  until  into  November.  The  California 
fruit  is  the  handsomest,  but  not  of  so  rich  a flavor  as  the  fine 
A'elloAV  CraAvfords  from  Michigan,  the  finest  peaches  obtainable, 
though  some  prefer  the  AA^hite-meated  A^arieties,  of  AAdiich  the  Old- 
mixon  Freestone  and  early  York  are  the  best. 

If  large  and  perfect  do  not  slice,  but  serve  them  AAdiole  ; Avipe  or 
brush  off  the  feathery  coating,  arrange  them  neatly  on  the  fruit-dish 
and  decorate  with  fresh  green  leaves  and  floAvers.  Sliced  ])eaches 
turn  a rusty  broAAUi  color  ff  alloAved  to  stand  after  cutting  them,  and 
should  be  served  as  soon  as  prepared ; if  necessary  for  thenf  to 
stand,  cover  Avith  whipped  cream  properly  sweetened.  A little  lemon 


FRUIT. 


327 


juice  brings  out  the  flavor  of  all  preparations  of  peaches,  and  may 
be  squeezed  over  sliced  peaches  before  serving.  Peaches  for  stew- 
ing, baking,  etc.,  may  be  peeled  or  wiped  with  a cloth,  or  brushed. 
The  blanched  kernels  cooked  with  them  give  a much  finer  flavor. 

Baked  Peaches. — Wash  the  peaches  (they  need  not  be  fully 
ripe),  put  them  in  a deep  dish,  sprinkle  well  with  sugar,  cover,  and 
bake  until  perfectly  tender.  Serve  with  the  syrup  in  pan  poured 
over.  Or,  take  equal  parts  rich  sliced  peaches,  green  corn  pulp,  and 
water.  Sweeten  to  taste,  place  in  baking  dish,  and  bake  twenty 
minutes. 

Frozen  Peaches. — Pare  and  divide  large,  fresh,  ripe  and  juicy 
peaches,  sprinkle  with  granulated  sugar,  and  half  freeze,  which  will 
take  about  an  hour ; remove  just  before  serving,  and  sprinkle  with 
a little  more  sugar.  Canned  peaches  and  all  kinds  of  berries  may 
be  prepared  in  same  way.  Or,  boil  heaping  pint  sugar,  and  quart 
water  together  twelve  minutes ; then  add  one  quart  of  either  canned 
or  fresh  peaches,  and  cook  twenty  minutes  longer.  Rub  through 
a sieve,  and  when  cool  freeze.  Take  out  beater  and  stir  in  pint 
cream,  whipped.  Cover  and  let  stand  an  hour  or  so.  Frozen  Apri- 
cots are  prepared  same  way. 

Frozen  Peaches  and  Cream. — Peel  and  quarter  fresh  peaches, 
add  sugar  and  cream,  making  very  sweet.  First  place  some  quar- 
ters in  bottom  of  mold,  then  fill  and  surround  with  ice  and  salt, 
freeze  the  mass  solid  without  stirring.  Turn  out  and  serve. 

Jellied  Peaches. — Cut  a dozen  peaches  in  halves,  peel  and  take 
out  stones,  crack  half  the  seeds,  and  blanch  kernels ; make  a clear 
boiling  syrup  of  one  pound  white  sugar,  and  into  it  put  the  peaches 
and  kernels,  boil  very  gently  ten  minutes,  take  out  half  the  peaches, 
boil  the  rest  ten  minutes  longer,  and  take  out  all  the  peaches  and 
kernels;  mix  with  syrup  left  in  kettle  the  strained  juice  of  three 
lemons,  and  an  ounce  isinglass  dissolved  in  a little  water  and 
strained ; boil  up  once,  fill  a mold  half  full,  let  stand  until  “set,” 
add  part  of  the  peaches  and  a little  more  jelly,  and  when  this  is 
“set,”  add  the  rest  of  the  peaches,  and  fill  up  the  mold  with  jelly. 
An  elegant  ornament.  Set  the  jelly  in  pan  of  hot  water  to  keep 
from  hardening  until  all  is  used. 

Peach  Float. — Take  the  whites  of  four  eggs,  beaten  to  a stiff 
froth ; stew  six  peaches  until  soft  enough  to  mash,  sweeten  to  taste 
and  beat  in  the  whites  of  eggs.  Serve  cold  heaped  in  a dish.  Apple., 
Pear  and  Quince  Floats  made  same. 

Peach  Meringue. — Put  a quart  milk  on  to  boil,  omitting  a half 
cup  with  which  to  moisten  two  tablespoons  corn-starch ; when  the 
milk  boils  add  the  moistened  corn-starch,  stir  till  thick,  then  remove 


328 


FRUIT. 


from  fire,  add  one  tablespoon  butter,  and  allow  the  mixture  to  cool ; 
then  beat  in  yolks  of  three  eggs  till  the  whole  seems  light  and 
creamy;  add  a half  cup  powdered  sugar.  Cover  the  bottom  of  a 
well-buttered  baking-dish  with  two  or  three  layers  rich  juicy  peaches, 
pared,  halved  and  stoned,  sprinkle  over  three  tablespoons  powdered 
sugar ; pour  the  custard  carefully  over  them  and  bake  twenty  min- 
utes, then  spread  with  the  light-beaten  whites,  well  sweetened,  and 
return  to  oven  till  a light  brown.  To  be  eaten  warm  with  a rich 
sauce,  or  cold  with  sweetened  cream. 

Peach  Tapioca  half-pint  tapioca  in  cold  water  two  or 

three  hours,  set  on  stove  until  it  boils,  and  sweeten  to  taste.  Peel 
and  slice  ripe  peaches  to  nearly  fill  a baking-dish,  sprinkle  with 
sugar,  pour  the  tapioca  over  them,  and  bake  slowly  one  hour.  Serve 
with  cream  and  sugar. 

Peaches  and  Cream. — The  harder  kinds  of  peaches  should  be 
chopped  to  the  size  of  strawberries  and  mixed  with  sugar  two  or 
three  hours  before  serving.  Allow  about  four  ounces  sugar  to  a 
quart.  Soft  peaches  after  peeling  are  best  eighthed  or  sliced.  A 
nice  way  to  serve  is  in  large  glass  bowls  ornamented  with  quarters 
of  red  or  yellow  peaches  neatly  placed,  and  a pitcher  of  cream  with 
each  bowl  separately.  If  served  individually  in  saucers,  pour  cream 
over  only  as  they  are  dished  up. 

Peaches  in  Marmalade. — Pare  and  halve  four  fine,  ripe  peaches 
and  let  them  /just  simmer  from  five  to  eight  minutes  in  a syrup 
made  with  third  of  a pint  water  and  three  ounces  white  sugar,  boiled 
together  fifteen  minutes ; lift  out  carefully  into  a deep  dish,  pour 
about  half  the  syrup  over  them,  and  into  the  remaining  half  throw 
a couple  of  pounds  more  quite  ripe  peaches  and  boil  to  a perfectly 
smooth  dry  pulp  or  marmalade,  with  as  much  powdered  sugar  as 
the  fruit  may  require,  adding  a little  lemon  juice.  Lift  the  other 
peaches  from  the  syrup,  and  reduce  it  by  very  quick  boiling,  more 
than  half.  Spread  a deep  layer  of  the  marmalade  in  a dish,  arrange 
the  peaches  symmetrically  around  it,  and  fill  all  the  spaces  between 
with  the  marmalade ; place  half  of  a blanched  peach  kernel  in  each, 
pour  the  reduced  syrup  equally  over  the  surface,  and  form  a border 
around  the  dish  with  Italian  macaroons,  or,  candied  citron,  sliced 
very  thin,  and  cut  into  leaves  with  a small  paste-cutter.  The  better 
to  preserve  their  form,  the  peaches  are  sometimes  merely  wiped,  and 
then  boiled  tolerably  tender  in  the  syrup  before  they  are  pared  or 
split.  Half  a pint  water,  and  from  five  to  six  ounces  of  sugar  must 
then  be  allowed  for  them.  If  any  of  those  used  for  the  marmalade 
should  not  be  quite  ripe,  it  will  be  better  to  pass  it  through  a sieve, 
when  partially  done,  to  prevent  its  being  lumpy. 

Pears. — The  California  Bartletts  are  the  finest  to  be  had  in  the 
world,  and  are  in  market  from  July  till  October.  The  New  York 


FRUIT. 


329 


Bartletts  ranR  next,  and  have  fully  as  good  a flavor,  but  are  not  so 
large.  The  New  York  Duchess  is  also  a choice  pear — very  fine  for 
canning — and  the  Seckle,  raised  in  both  New  York  and  California, 
is  best  for  pickling.  The  Pound  pear  is  the  largest,  but  good  only 
for  canning.  To  serve  whole,  wash,  if  necessar}^  wipe  dry,  and  ar- 
range in  glass  dish  with 'green  leaves;  the  addition  of  oranges  has 
a pleasing  effect. 

Baked  Pears. — Bake  washed,  unpeeled  pears  in  pan  with 
only  a teaspoon  or  Dvo  of  water;  leave  stems  on,  sprinkle  with 
sugar,  and  serve  with  their  own  syrup.  Or,  for  a more  elaborate 
dish,  pare  and  cut  twelve  pears  into  halves,  and,  should  they  be 
very  large,  into  quarters  ; leave  the  stems  on,  and  carefully  remove 
the  cores.  Place  them  in  baking-dish  or  bean-pot  with  cover ; add 
one  lemon  rind  cut  in  strips,  and  the  juice  of  half  a lemon,  six 
cloves,  ten  pounded  allspice,  and  sufficient  water  to  just  cover  the 
whole,  with  sugar  in  proportion  of  a half  pound  to  each  pint  water. 
Cover  closely,  put  into  very  cool  oven,  and  bake  from  five  to  six 

hours.  Be  very  careful  that  the  oven  is  not  too  hot.  To  improve 
the  color  of  the  fruit,  a few  drops  of  prepared  cochineal  may  be 
added ; but  this  will  not  be  found  necessary  if  the  pears  are  very 
gently  baked.  Take  out  in  glass  dish,  being  careful  to  preserve 
shape,  and  pour  over  them  the  juice  in  which  they  were  baked. 
Serve  cold,  placing  on  ice  a half  hour  or  so  before  wanted.  If  a 
larger  quantity  is  to  be  baked,  pack  carefully  in  layers  with  season- 
ing between.  Stewed'  Pears  may  be  prepared  in  same  manner  with 
same  ingredients  ; cook  slowly  in  porcelain-kettle  on  top  of  stove 
instead  of  baking.  Serve  as  above.  Or,  peel  the  pears,  leave  the 
stems  on,  and  place  them  whole  in  a stew-pan  with  a little  water, 
sugar,  cloves,  cinnamon  and  lemon  peel.  Stew  gently  and  add  one 
glass  cider,  if  liked,  or  omit  both  spices  and  cider.  Some  like  a 
vanilla  bean  stewed  with  them.  Serve  cold. 

Jellied  Pears. — Peel  and  cut  four  large  or  six  small  pears  into 
quarters,  put  them  into  a jar  with  three-fourths  pint  water,  cloves, 
cinnamon  and  sufficient  sugar  to  sweeten  the  whole  nicely,  cover 
down  the  top  of  the  jar,  and  bake  in  a gentle  ov  ui  until  perfectly 
tender,  but  do  not  allow  them  to  break.  When  done  lay  in  a plain 
mold,  which  should  be  well  wetted ; simmer  three-fourths  pint  of 
the  liquor  the  pears  were  baked  in  with  a strip  of  lemon  peel,  strain- 
ed juice  of  half  a lemon,  and  a half  ounce  gelatine.  Let  these  in- 
gredients simmer  well  five  minutes,  then  strain  the  liquid  warm 
over  the  pears ; put  the  mold  in  a cool  place,  and  when  the  jelly  is 
firm  turn  out  in  a glass  dish.  A less  elaborate  way  is  to  pare  and 
quarter  eight  nice  pears,  and  put  in  a porcelain  saucepan  with  wate'r 
enough  to  cook;  put  on  lid  and  simmer  fruit  gently  until  tender, 
then  remove  to  a platter ; make  a syrup  of  a pound  sugar  and  a 


330 


FRUIT. 


pint  pear-water ; add  juice  two  lemons,  grated  rind  of  one,  and  put 
in  the  pears ; cook  a few  minutes  then  remove  to  the  dish  in  which 
they  are  to  be  molded.  Soak  an  ounce  geL?,tine  an  hour  or  two  in 
enough  water  to  cover,  and  stir  it  into  the  hot  syrup  : let  boil  up  once 
and  turn  it  over  fruit  through  a strainer.  The  mold  should  be 
dipped  in  cold  water  before  putting  in  fruit.  When  cold  turn  jelly 
into  a dish  and  serve  with  whipped  cream  around  the  base,  or  serve 
in  saucers  with  sweet  cream. 

• Pear  Compote. — Make  as  apple  compote,  or  cook  six  or  eight 
canned  pears  in  their  syrup  until  it  becomes  like  honey ; then  re- 
move from  the  fire,  halve  and  lay  in  a dish.  Beat  whites  of  two 
eggs  to  a stiff  froth,  sweeten,  and  spread  over  the  pears.  Brown 
with  salamander  or  in  oven,  if  desired.  Or,  for  a Compote  ivith  Eggs^ 
peel  good,  sound  pears,  cut  into  quarters,  and  take  out  seeds,  flour 
them  lightly  and  fry  in  butter.  Add  enough  water  and  sugar  to 
make  a syrup  and  stew  the  pears  until  tender.  Take  up  the  pears, 
thicken  the  syrup  with  well-beaten  yolks  of  eggs ; pour  over  the 
pears  and  serve. 

Alligator  Pear  Salad. — The  alligator  pear  is  a tropical  fruit 
but  little  known,  that  tastes  something  like  the  American  chestnut, 
and  is  finding  its  way  to  some  tables.  Select  green-colored  fruit,  as 
the  black  over-ripe  fruit  is  not  good.  Cut  the  pear  in  two,  remove 
the  large  seeds,  pare  away  the  outer  rind,  then  cut  the  fruit  into 
strips,  and  season  with  a saltspoon  salt,  two  tablespoons  olive  oil, 
and  a teaspoon  tarragon  vinegar. 

Baked  Pie- Plant — Wash,  peel  and  cut  into  inch  pieces,  and 
place  in  covered  baking-dish,  sprinkling  sugar  on  each  layer,  using 
about  a teacup  to  a quart.  The  nicest  thing  to  cook  it  in  is  a covered 
bean-pot,  allowing  one  hour  from  time  it  is  put  in  oven.  This 
makes  a delicious  sauce,  far  superior  to  stewing  it.  If  baked  with- 
out a cover  it  will  be  done  in  half  an  hour,  but  is  nicer  to  cover  and 
confine  the  aroma 

Stewed  Pie-plant. — Make  a rich  syrup  by  adding  sugar  to 
water  in  which  long  strips  of  orange  peel  have  been  boiled  until 
tender,  put  a single  layer  of  pie-plant  three  inches  long,  and  stew 
gently  until  clear.  When  done  remove  and  cook  another  layer. 
This  makes  a handsome  dessert  dish,  ornamented  with  puff-paste 
cut  in  fanciful  shapes.  Use  one  orange  to  two  and  a half  pounds 
pie-plant.  Some  prefer  to  stew  pie-plant  in  clear  water,  turning  ofi* 
all  the  water  possible  when  done  and  letting  it  get  almost  cold  be- 
fore sweetening.  Less  sugar  is  required,  and  it  is  also  thought  to 
be  much  nicer.  To  remove  the  strong  acid  taste,  and  also  effect  a 
saving  in  sugar,  many  turn  boiling  hot  water  over  it  before  cooking 
and  let  stand  until  cold,  then  turning  it  off;  some  let  stand  in  the 


FRUIT. 


^31 


hot  water  only  five  minutes  or  so.  Fried  Pie-plant  is  also  nice. 
Fry  in  butter  like  apples,  and  sweeten  well. 

Pine-apple. — The  Strawberry  is  the  best  variety,  though  the 
Sugarloaf  is  good,  of  smoother  exterior,  fine-grained  and  tender,  but 
not  so  juicy  and  high-fiavored  as  the  former.  This  fruit  is  so  per- 
ishable that  to  keep  even  a few  days  it  must  be  cooked.  To  prepare, 
peel  and  cut  the  fruit  into  dice.  Throw  away  the  core  or  heart, 
as  it  is  bitter.  Sprinkle  thickly  with  sugar  and  place  on  ice  some 
time  before  serving;  many  let  it  stand  overnight,  but  as  pine- 
apples darken  by  exposure  to  air,  if  wanted  to  look  nicely,  serve 
at  once.  Just  before  wanted  pile  high  in  center  of  fruit-dish,  with 
border  of  sponge  cake  slices,  lady  fingers  or  jelly  sandwiches  (see 
Jellies  and  Jams/,  and  the  tuft  of  the  pine-apple  topping 
the  whole.  Very  nice  if  sliced  on  a slaw-cutter,  and  soma 
after  paring  pick  the  fruit  from  the  core  with  a knife.  A 
dish  of  alternate  layers  of  shredded  pine-apple  and  cocoa' 
nut,  sprinkled  with  sugar  and  served  with  a sauce  of  or- 
ange  juice,  is  a nice  dessert.  Or,  peel  and  cut  a pine-apple 
into  uniform  slices,  put  in  a glass  dish  and  cover  with  a cup  pow- 
dered sugar.  Let  stand  to  form  a syrup,  and  just  before  serving 
add  a half  cup  orange  juice.  To  Keep. — Pare  and  cut  out  the  eyes 
of  a nipe  pine-apple,  strip  all  the  pulp  from  the  core  with  a silver 
fork ; to  a pint  of  this  add  a pound  of  granulated  sugar ; stir  occasion- 
ally until  sugar  is  dissolved,  put  in  glass  fruit-cans,  and  turn  down 
the  covers  as  closely  as  possible.  This  will  keep  a long  time. 


Plnms. — The  California  and  Oregon  varieties  may  be  had 
through  August  and  September,  as  also 
the  domestic  sweet  plums.  The  Blue 
Damsons,  a sour  variety,  come  later,  and 
are  highly  prized,  many  considering  them 
superior  to  the  sweet  plums.  The  Green 
Gages  and  Imperial  Gages  are  excellent 
for  canning  and  preserving.  To  serve,  they  may  be  simply  heaped 
carelessly  on  a border  of  green. 


Plums. 


Balced  Quinces. — Core  the  quinces  and  rub  them  well,  put  m 
baking-pan,  and  fill  core  cavity  with  powdered  sugar.  Bake  till 
tender  and  serve  with  sugar  and  cream.  Or,  pare,  quarter,  extract 
the  seeds  and  stew  in  clear  cold  water  until  a straw  will  pierce  them ; 
put  into  a baking-dish  with  a half  cup  sugar  to  every  eight  quinces, 
pour  over  the  liquor  in  which  they  were  boiled,  cover  closely  and 
steam  in  oven  one  hour.  Pour  the  syrup  over  them  and  serve. 
For  a Quince  Compote.,  cook  as  above,  then  take  out  the  fruit,  la^ 
in  covered  bowl  to  keep  warm,  return  syrup  to  saucepan  and  boil 
twenty  minutes ; pour  over  fruit  and  set  away  covered  to  cool.  Serv'd 
cold. 


332 


FRUIT. 


Steamed  Quinces. — Pare,  quarter  and  core  very  ripe  quinces 
and  steam  in  a deep  dish  until  perfectly  tender  : then  slice  them  in 
the  dish  in  which  they  are  to  be  served,  sprinkle  with  sugar,  and 
pour  the  juice  ov^r  them.  Serve  cold. 

Raisine. — Squeeze  the  juice  from  very  ripe  but  quite  sound 
grapes,  and  boil  till  reduced  one-half.  Peel  and  core  some  pears, 
cut  into  quarters,  and  put  in  the  grape  syrup.  Let  boil  till  reduced 
a third.  Raisine  may  be  made  from  unripe  grapes,  but  in  this  case 
sugar  must  be  added,  allowing  a quarter  pound  to  every  pint  grape 
juice. 

Raspherry  Float. — Crush  a pint  very  ripe  red  raspberries  with 
a gill  sugar ; beat  whites  of  four  eggs  to  a stiff  froth,  and  add  grad- 
ually a gill  powdered  sugar ; press  the  raspberries  through  a fine 
strainer  to  avoid  seeds,  and  by  degrees  beat  in  the  juice  with  the 
egg  and  sugar  until  so  stiff  that  it  stands  in  peaks.  All  berries  may 
be  served  same  way. 

Strawherries. — If  to  be  plainly  served  select  large,  fine  fruit 
with  the  stems  on.  clip  the  stems  within  an  inch  of  the  berry,  and 
arrange  in  basket  as  in  cut,  bordering  with 
leaves,  and  rounding  the  center  by  heaping 
more  leaves.  Arrange  the  strawberries 
carefully,  standing  them  on  their  stems,  and 
pass  with  a tiny  cup  ( wine-glasses,  egg-glasses 
“strawberries.  or  evcii  butter-platcs  will  do)  of  powdered 

sugar  to  each  guest.  The  berries  are  t?tken  by  the  stem,  dipped  into 
the  sugar,  and  eaten.  Never  wash  berries  unless  absolutely  neces- 
sary. But  if  they  must  be  washed,  take  a dish  of  cold,  soft  water, 
put  in  a few  berries,  and  with  the  hand  press  them  down  into  the 
water  once  or  twice,  until  they  look  clean,  then  hull  them.  Repeat 
the  process  till  all  are  hulled,  changing  the  water  often.  Never 
drain  in  a colander.  Some  wash  them  by  putting  them  under  the 
pump  in  an  open  basket,  and  give  them  one  good  showering  that 
passes  through  the  berries  and  carries  off  all  grit  and  dirt.  If  not 
to  be  eaten  for  an  hour  or  more,  hang  the  basket  in  the  refrigerator, 
and  do  not  hull  them  until  the  last  moment,  though  many  prefer  to 
stem  them  and  sprinkle  thickly  with  sugar  two  or  three  hours  before 
serving,  while  others  put  no  sugar  over  them  until  dished  at  table. 

Frozen  Strawberries. — Boil  quart  water  and  font  sugar  together 
half  an  hour ; then  add  two  quarts  strawberries,  and  cook  fifteen 
minutes  longer.  Let  cool  and  freeze.  Take  out  beater  and  add 
onepint  cream,  whipped,  using  a wooden  paddle  and  beating  it  in  thor- 
oughly. Preserved  fruit  can  be  used  instead  of  the  fresh,  when  use 
for  each  quart  preserves  one  quart  water.  Frozen  Raspberries  are 
prepared  as  above,  except  that  before  freezing  add  the  juice  of  three 
lemons.  All  kinds  of  canned  and  preserved  fruits  can  be  thus  pre- 
pared and  frozen.  For  the  freezing  process  see  Ices  and  Ice  Creams. 


FRUIT. 


333 


Mock  Straicherries. — Cut  ripe  peaches  and  choice  well-flavored 
apples,  in  proportion  of  three  peaches  to  one  apple,  into  quarters 
about  the  size  of  a strawberry,  place  in  alternate  layers,  sprinkle  the 
top  thickly  with  sugar,  and  add  pounded  ice ; let  stand  about  two 
hours,  mix  peaches  and  apples  thoroughly,  let  stand  an  hour  longer 
and  serve. 

Oranged  Strawberries. — Place  a layer  of  strawberries  in  a deep 
dish ; cover  thickly  with  pulverized  sugar,  then  a layer  of  berries, 
and  so  on,  until  all  are  used.  Pour  orange  juice  over  them  in  the 
proportion  of  three  oranges  to  a quart  of  berries.  Let  stand  an 
hour,  and  just  before  serving  sprinkle  with  pounded  ice. 

Strawberries  with  Whipped  Cream. — Prepare  in  layers  as  above, 
cover  with  one  pint  of  cream,  whites  of  three  eggs  and  a cup  pow- 
dered sugar,  whipped  together  and  flavored  with  strawberry  juice. 

Stravjberry  Meringue. — Mix  a half  cup  sugar  with  two  cups 
strawberries  by  shaking  about  in  a bowl,  and  spread  them  on  a sheet  of 
sponge  cake  baked  in  a jelly-pan,  and  pressed  while  warm  into  a 
shallow  dish  to  give  it  a hollow  shape.  Whip  whites  of  three  eggs 
firm,  mix  in  two  tablespoons  sugar,  spread  the  meringue  over  the 
berries  and  brown  with  the  salamander  or  hot  shovel.  Serve  cold. 

Frosted  Fruits. — Most  all  fruits  can  be  thus  treated  and  make  a 
delicious  dessert.  Whip  whites  of  two  eggs  and  stir  in  a half  pound  fine 
granulated  sugar,  beating  fifteen  minutes.  Prepare  Frosted  Oranges 
by  skinning  oranges,  removing  as  much  of  the  white  pith  as  possi- 
ble, without  breaking  them,  passing  a thread  through  the  center  of 
each,  dip  them  into  the  frosting  until  thoroughly  coated,  and 
then  tie  them  to  a stick ; place  the  stick  across  the  oven  and  let  the 
balls  remain  until  thoroughly  dry,  when  they  will  have  the  appear- 
ance of  balls  of  ice.  Care  must  be  taken  not  to  have  the  oven  so 
hot  as  to  brown  them.  Send  to  table  heaped  on  dish  with  green 
leaves  around.  A very  pretty  dessert  or  supper  dish.  Or  the 
oranges  may  be  peeled  and  divided  into  sections,  removing  as  much 
pith  as  possible,  whip  together  on  a plate  with  a knife  or  fork  white 
of  one  egg  and  four  tablespoons  water,  add  a dessert-spoon  powder- 
ed sugar,  mix  all  thoroughly  and  strain  through  a sieve  into  an- 
other plate  ; dip  the  fruit  into  these,  roll  carefully  in  sifted  powdered 
sugar  and  place  on  a sieve  to  dry.  Or  some  use  the  stiffly-whipped 
whites  of  two  eggs  with  one  tablespoon  water,  and  proceed  the  same. 
Others  simply  beat  the  whites  until  they  break,  and  do  not  use 
water.  Frosted  Peaches  are  done  same  as  oranges,  first  rubbing 
off  the  fuzz  with  a clean  cloth,  and  when  partially  dry  roll  a 
second  time  in  the  sugar.  Frosted  Currants  may  be  thus  prepared 
in  bunches,  also  Frosted  Grapes^  or  these  may  be  taken  on  a needle 
and  done  singly.  Frosted  Cherries  are  also  done  singly  on  their 
stems,  or  in  bunches.  For  Frosted  Bananas.,  procure  those  of 


834 


FRUIT. 


medium  size,  peel  and  frost  whoie  by  brushing  them  over  with  the 
whipped  egg  mixture,  using  the  pastry  brush  for  this,  and  dipping 
powdered  sugar  over  them ; or  cut  into  nice  slices,  wipe  dry,  and 
frost  as  other  fruits.  For  Frosted  Pears  choose  small  Bartlett  or 
Sugar  pears.  Frosted  Berries  are  nice,  and  any  kind  of  berries 
may  be  thus  served,  if  large,  perfect  and  not  over-ripe.  Frosted 
Plums  are  nice  also.  Very  pretty  effects  are  produced  by  serving 
the  different  kinds  of  frosted  fruits  in  same  dish,  piling  the  sections 
of  oranges  evenly  in  a cone  in  center  and  arranging  the  grapes, 
currants,  etc.,  around  the  base,  interspersed  with  green  leaves,  or 
with  stems  put  into  the  cone  at  intervals,  or  in  any  way  fancied. 

A pretty  dish  of  oranges  alone  is  made  by  first  frosting"  one-third 
the  sections,  as  above,  then  color  one-third  of  the  sugar  with  a few 
drops  liquid  cochineal,  letting  it  dry,  and  rolling  if  it  lumps ; roll 
one-third  of  the  oranges  in  this,  and  glaze  the  remaining  third 
according  to  directions  for  Glazing  Fruits.  Put  together  in  dish, 
in  rows  of  each  color,  or  in  any  pretty  order,  on  a base  of  green 
leaves. 

Frozen  Fruits. — These  are  frozen  the  same  as  water  ices,  re- 
quiring more  salt  in  freezing  than  ice  cream.  If  let  stand  half  an 
hour  in  the  freezer  on  ice  they  will  freeze  easier.  If  in  preparing 
the  mixture  the  sugar  does  not  dissolve  entirely,  which  is  very  nec- 
essary, add  more  water,  or,  better  still,  juice  of  the  same  fruit,  to 
just  dissolve  it,  and  then  when  ready,  freeze.  For  Frozen  Oranges 
take  two  pounds  Florida  oranges,  first  rub  one-third  of  the  oranges 
with  q,  handful  or  two  of  granulated  sugar  taken  from  the  two 
pounds  sugar  to  be  used  in  recipe,  then  peel,  quarter  and  halve  each 
quarter,  take  out  seeds,  and  mix  with  all  the  sugar  as  above,  juice 
of  two  lemons  and  one  quart  water.  When  sugar  is  dissolved  put 
in  freezer  and  turn  slowly,  so  as  to  break  the  orange  pulp  as  little  as 
possible.  For  Frozen  Straioherries  mix  two  pounds  berries  and 
juice  of  two  lemons,  or  for  a richer  flavor  use  oranges,  let  stand  half 
an  hour,  add  two  pounds  sugar,  and  after  another  half  hour  one 
quart  water,  and  as  soon  as  the  sugar  is  dissolved,  freeze,  and  color 
with  a few  drops  of  carmine.  For  Frozen  Pine-apples  take  the 
Birdseye  or  Bose,  prepare  as  for  serving,  cutting  into  dice ; mix  at 
once  in  same  proportions  as  strawberries,  omitting  the  carmine. 
Frozen  Bananas  are  prepared  in  same  ivay.  For  Frozen  Rasp)- 
herries  mix  two  pounds  each  berries  and  sugar,  stir  lightly  once  or 
twice  till  sugar  is  dissolved,  add  one  quart  water  and  freeze,  stirring  • 
only  enough  to  congeal  it.  If  purple  berries  are  used,  put  two  table- 
spoons each  currant  juice  and  sugar  to  each  pound  fruit.  Some 
prefer  juice  of  lemons  to  that  of  currants.  For  Frozen  Cherries 
bruise  one  dozen  kernels  in  a mortar  to  a paste,  and  tie  loosely  in 
muslin.  Mix  two  and  quarter  pounds  cherries,  having  first  stoned 
them,  and  two  pounds  sugar,  put  in  kernels,  let  stand  half  an 


FRUIT. 


335 


hour,  add  water,  stir  gently  to  dissolve  sugar,  take  out  kernels  and 
freeze.  The  very  small  quantity  of  kernels  used  gives  a pleasant 
nutty  flavor,,  and  a hardly  perceptible  bitter  taste,  which  is  acceptable 
to  most  palates  ; but  if  disliked  by  any  it  may  be  omitted.  For  Frozen 
Currants  one  and  one-half  ’ pounds  currants  and  one-half 

pound  raspberries  lightly,  add  two  pounds  sugar,  and  after  half  an 
hour  one  quart  water,  and  when  dissolved,  freeze.  If  the  fruit  is  very 
acid  add  more  sugar.  Frozen  Peaches^  Apricots^  Nectarines 
and  Plums  are  prepared  the  same,  except  the  three  latter 
are  not  pared.  Select  two  pounds  white-fleshed  peaches  and  rub 
ofl*  fuzz,  pare,  cut  in  half  and  drop  at  once  into  ice-cold  water; 
when  all  are  pared,  drain  quickly,  and  mix  with  two  pounds 
sugar,  adding  one  dozen  kernels  which  have  been  pounded 
to  a paste,  and  tied  in  a muslin  bag.  Add  one  quart  water, 
and  when  sugar  is  dissolved,  take  out  bag,  chop  fruit  into 
dice,  mix  and  freeze.  Color  faintly  with  carmine.  Use  canned 
apricots  if  fresh  cannot  be  obtained.  For  Frozen  Apples  pare  and 
core  two  pounds  apples  and  drop  into  cold  water.  When  all  are 
prepared,  drain,  cut  into  dice,  mix  with  two  pounds  sugar,  add 
half  ounce  apple  seeds,  bruised  and  tied  in  a muslin  rag,  stir  lightly, 
after  half  an  hour  add  the  water,  mix  well,  remove  bag  and  freeze. 
For  Frozen  Grapes  stone  and  gently  mash  two  and  a quarter 
pounds  fruit,  mix  with  two  pounds  sugar,  after  an  hour  add  one 
quart  water  and  freeze.  For  a Macedoine  of  Fruits  mix  two  or 
more  fruits  that  harmonize  in  flavor,  as  orange  and  pine-apple, 
peach  and  apricot,  apple  and  orange,  plum  and  grape,  raspberry, 
cherry  and  currant,  strawberry  and  lemon.  Mix  in  any  of  above 
proportions  and  freeze. 

Glazed  Fruits. — Boil  a cup  each  granulated  sugar  and  water 
together  half  an  hour  (less  water  may  be  used),  or  until  it  becomes 
brittle  when  dropped  in  cold  water.  Pour  this  syrup  in  a bowl 
placed  in  hot  water,  and  dip  the  fruit  to  be  glazed  in  this  and  place 
to*  dry.  For  Glo.zed  Oranges  peel  and  separate  into  the  natural 
divisions  without  breaking  the  skin.  Take  each  piece  on  a skewer 
and  dip  into  the  hot  syrup  and  then  place  the  other  end  of  the 
skewers  in  a bowl  of  salt,  with  the  oranges  hanging  over  the  edge, 
that  the  glazing  may  dry  perfectly,  or  lay  them  on  a slightly  but- 
tered* plate.  Plums,  grapes,  cherries,  currants  and  other  fruits  may 
be  glazed  in  same  manner.  Do  not  stir  the  syrup  or  it  will  grain, 
and  it  is  well  to  add  the  juice  of  a lemon  to  prevent  its  turning  to 
sugar.  If  it  begins  to  grain  add  a little  water  and  reheat.  Or  the 
syrup  may  be  made  of  a pound  sugar,  a large  half  cup  water,  and  a 
half  teaspoon  cream  tartar.  Iced  Fruits  are  done  by  simply  coat- 
ing with  plain  white  iceing,  made  with  whites  of  eggs  and  sugar,  as 
for  cake. 


336 


FRUIT. 


Macedoine  of  Fruits. — With  jelly  this  is  a handsome  dish  for  des* 
sert,  and  seems  a very  elaborate  one,  but  is  quite  easily  prepared.  Any 

bright-colored  jelly,  flavored  nicely,  will 
do  for  the  purpose,  and  these  are  speed- 
ily prepared  by  means  of  gelatine. 
First  put  the  mold  on  ice,  and  proceed 
to  fill  alternately  with  jelly  and  different 
kinds  of  fruits ; pour  in  a little  jelly 
and  when  set  arrange  fruits  in  a circle, 
or  according  to  taste ; pour  in  more 
jelly,  and  when  it  hardens  put  in  more 
fruit,  and  continue  thus  until  full. 
Grapes,  cherries,  peaches,  strawberries, 
or  any  fruits,  the  smaller  ones  on  their 
stems,  the  larger  ones  cut  in  pieces,  show  off  handsomely,  and  if 
fresh  fruit  is  scarce,  preserved  or  candied  fruit  may  be  used.  Keep 
the  jelly  in  a pan  of  hot  water  to  prevent  its  hardening  until  used. 
When  firm  turn  it  out  and  surmount  the  whole  with  mixed  fruits. 

Fruit  Balls. — Spread  boiled  rice  over  a cloth  and  lay  on  the 
rice  cherries,  berries  or  oranges,  peeled,  and  as  much  pith  as  pos- 
sible removed,  tie  closely,  boil  long  enough  to  cook  the  fruit, 
sprinkle  with  sugar  and  serve  with  syrup,  or  sugar  and  cream,  or 
any  sauce  liked.  Or,  pare  and  core  apples  whole,  put  some  sugar 
and  a clove  into  each,  put  the  rice  around  them,  tie  in  a cloth  and 
boil  until  tender.  Serve  same. 

Fruit  Juices. — Mash  the  juicy  fruits  to  a pulp,  place  on  fire  till 
scalding  hot.  Pour  into  a puree  sieve  and  allow  the  juice  to  run 
through.  Put  into  bottles  or  cans  and  seal  and  finish  as  in  Canning 
Fruits  by  placing  them  in  boiler  of  cold  water  and  boil  for  twenty 
minutes.  Remove  from  fire  and  allow  to  remain  in  boiler  until 
cold;  then  set  away  for  use.  In  the  case  of  non-juicy  fruits,  such 
as  apples,  pears,  peaches,  etc.,  put  fruit  in  saucepan,  cover  with 
water,  and  boil  to  a pulp,  place  on  a hair  sieve  and  allow  to  drain 
without  any  pressing.  Bottle  this  juice  as  above.  This  makes  the 
clear,  transparent  extracts  for  syrups,  cordials  and  beverages.  In 
cases  where  the  flavorings  are  to  be  used  for  any  purpose  where 
transparency  or  clearness  is  not  desirable,  such  as  for'ice  creams, 
fruit-ices,  or  bon-bons,  then  use  not  only  the  clear  fluid  but  also  the 
pulp,  and  bottle  as  above. 

Fruit  Salad. — For  platter  of  salad  sufficient  for  twelve  or  six- 
teen take  half  dozen  each  oranges  and  pears,  one  dozen  each 
peaches  and  bananas,  pound  each  white  and  red  grapes  and  one 
lemon ; pare  the  large  fruits,  and  first  cut  an  orange  in  small  pieces 
and  place  in  center  of  platter ; on  top  of  or  around  these  pieces  cut 
a peach  or  two  (according  to  size),  then  a banana,  then  a pear — 


FRUIT. 


337 


using  one’s  fancy  in  the  shapes  of  the  pieces,  some  round,  some 
square,  some  oblong,  etc.  Wash  a few  of  the  grapes  and  place  them 
(without  stems)  at  different  points  over  the  layer,  and  dust  over 
with  granulated  sugar,  then  squeeze  upon  it  a little  lemon  juice. 
Now  commence  again  with  orange  and  proceed  as  before  with  all 
the  fruits  until  platter  is  nicely  filled  and  rounded  with  the  different 
fruits.  Finish  with  small  clusters  of  red  and  white  grapes  (on 
stems)  alternately  placed  around  the  edge  of  the  platter  and  small 
thin  slices  of  the  red  core  of  watermelon  may  be  added  with  the  grapes. 
If  the  juice  accumulates  too  much  in  platter  carefully  dip  it  into  a 
small  pitcher,  and  as  the  salad  is  served  pour  over  some  juice. 
This  can  be  made  of  canned  fruits  (adding  strawberries),  but  does 
not  look  as  well. 

Fruit  Toasts. — Halve  and  stone  peaches  and  place  each  half 
inside  uppermost,  on  thin  square  or  round  pieces  of  bread; 
place  in  bottom  of  well-buttered  dish,  with  a piece  of  butter  in  each, 
sprinkle  with  sugar  and  bake  a half  hour  in  moderate  oven ; when 
done,  arrange  carefully  in  a dish,  pour  the  syrup  from  baking  dish 
over,  and  serve  hot.  Apricots,  large  plums  and  pears  are  nice  baked 
thus. 

Fruit  in  Jelly. — Put  a half  pint  clear  melted  calf-foot  jelly  into 
a bowl ; lay  in  three  peaches  and  a bunch  of  grapes,  with  the  stalks 
upward ; put  in  three  small  vine  leaves  next,  and  fill  up  with  the 
jelly;  let  stand  overnight,  then  set  to  the  brim  in  hot  water;  when 
the  jelly  loosens  from  the  bowl  put  dish  over  it  and  turn  out  care- 
fully. 

Ambrosia. — Take  four  each  oranges  and  bananas,  one  pim«- 
apple  (canned  may  be  used),  quart  strawberries  and  ten  tablespoon 3 
grated  cocoa-nut.  Peel  the  fruit,  stem  the  berries,  and  place  in  glass 
dish  a layer  of  berries,  then  sliced  pine-apples,  then  oranges  cut  iu 
small  pieces,  taking  out  seeds,  then  bananas  sliced  crosswise,  adding 
strawberries  here  and  there,  so  that  they  will  show  through  the 
dish  ; now  another  layer  of  pine-apples,  then  bananas,  then  oranges, 
placing  sugar  between  each  layer  and  over  the  top,  using  one  and 
a half  pints  powdered  sugar.  Cover  with  the  grated  cocoa-nut  and  over 
this  place  a layer  of  large  selected  strawberries.  Let  stand  in  a 
cold  place  for  an  hour  or  two  before  serving.  Same  can  be  made 
with  half  as  many  oranges  and  i)ananas,  omitting  cocoa-nut  and  plac- 
ing fruits  in  successive  layers,  not  scattering  the  strawberries  ; or  take 
six  sweet  oranges,  one  pine-apple,  one  large  cocoa-nut,  grated,  and 
sprinkle  pulverized  sugar  over  each  layer.  Or,  use  six  oranges,  six 
lemons,  and  two  cocoa-nuts,  or  only  oranges  and  cocoa-nuts,  pre- 
pared as  above.  Some  pour  over  the  orange  and  cocoa-nuts  a half 
cup  each  orange  and  lemon  juice,  and  it  is  delicious  added  to  any 
ambrosia. 


22 


338 


FRUIT. 


Nutmeg  Melon. 


Melons. — These  fruits  are  always  served  fresh,  and  should  be 
thoroughly  cooled  by  keeping  on  ice  until  just  ready  to  send  to  the 
table,  and  are  nicer  if  left  on  ice  overnight. 

Garnish  with  flowers  or  green  leaves,  or  arrange 
a border  of  the  smaller  fruits  around  it.  The 
latter  gives  a very  pretty  effect.  The  Nutmeg 
Melon  is  the  finest  variety.  To  prepare  for  the 
table,  wash  them  and  wipe  dry,  set  on  the  blos- 
som end,  and  cut  in  several  equal  pieces  from 
the  stem  downward,  leaving  each  alternate  piece  still  attached ; the 
others  may  then  be  loosened,  the  upper  end  clipped  off  and  the  seeds 
removed,  when  the  melon  is  ready  to  serve,  as  shown  in  cut.  Or 
cut  off  the  top  of  each  melon,  remove  the  seeds,  fill  with  powdered 
ice,  replace  the  tops  and  send  to  table  as  if  whole.  Some  prefer  to 
serve  them  cut  in  halves,  with  a lump  of  ice  on  each.  This  cools 
them  perfectly  and  quickly.  As  a dressing  some  place  a table- 
spoon honey  in  each  half,  but  most  people  like  sugar, ' or  a sea- 
soning of  salt  and  pepper,  which  is  usually  sent  round  with  them. 
They  are  also  sometimes  served  with  a salad  dressing,  when  rather 
insipid  and  tasteless,  though  more  of  a breakfast  than  a dinner  dish. 
Melon  is  often  sent  on  after  the  soup  at  dinner.  For  a nice  Melon 
Salad  pare  rind  from  a musk  or  nutmeg  melon  and  slice  lengthwise ; 
cut  these  slices  crosswise  as  sliced  cucumbers,  place  in  bowl,  sprinkle 
with  salt  and  pepper  and  add  three  or  four  tablespoons  oil  or  a little 
melted  butter.  Let  stand  half  an  hour  on  ice,  then  add  a pinch 
sugar  and  a little  vinegar,  spoonful  at  a time,  simply  to  moisten 
without  leaving  any  liquid  in  bowl.  Serve  as  first  course  at  break- 
fast heaped  in  middle  of  platter,  garnished  with  green.  If  a melon 
is  found  insipid  or  over  ripe,  scoop  out  the  pulp  by  spoonfuls  in- 
stead of  serving  in  slices  and  pass  a French  dressing  with  it,  v/hich 
poured  over  the  melon  pulp  makes  a very  appetizing  dainty. 

Watermelons  must  also  be  thoroughly  chilled  by  standing  on 
ice  several  hours  and  are  served  as  fruit  at  dessert.  The  fruit  may  be 
cut  as  illustrated  and  sent  to  table  on  a border  of  green  leaves,  when  it 
is  served  in  slices  with  the  rind  attached ; or  clip  the  ends  of  the 
watermelons,  cut  them  across  in  halves,  set  upon  the  clipped  ends  on 
a platter,  and  serve  the  pulp  only,  removing  it  in  symmetrical  egg- 
shaped  pieces  with  a spoon ; or  if  very  large,  cut  across  in  thick 
slices,  and  serve  in  nice  triangular  shaped  pieces 
on  the  rind.  Some  season  with  sugar  and  some 
wuth  salt,  and  some  not  at  all.  Watermelons 
have  been  kept  fresh  until  into  the  winter  by 
gathering  before  quite  ripe,  wrapping  in  news- 
paper and  packing  in  sawdust. 

Chestnuts. — To  boil  chestnuts,  shell,  and  put  them  into  warm 
water,  slightly  salted,  and  cook  fast  fifteen  minutes.  Turn  off  the 
water  through  a colander ; stir  a good-sized  piece  of  butter  into  the 


■Watermelon. 


FRUIT. 


339 


hot  chestnuts,  tossing  them  over  and  over  until  glossy  and  dry.  Or 
put  half  an  ounce  aniseed  into  water  enough  for  fifty  chestnuts,  and 
boil,  first  clipping  of  the  points  off  the  nuts.  Serve  on  a hot  napkin 
in  deep  dish.  For  Steived  Chestnuts,  first  roast  them  and  when 
done,  shell  and  put  in  a pan  with  water,  allowing  quarter  of  a pint 
to  a pound  of  sugar  and  two  pounds  chestnuts.  Stew  fifteen  min- 
utes, adding  slowly  the  juice  of  a lemon. 

Cocoa-nut — A nice  dessert  is  made  by  grating  a large  cocoa-nut 
into  a glass  dish,  serving  with  cream,  preserves,  jellies  or  jams.  Co- 
coa-nut  PuhFs  are  also  nice  for  dessert.  To  prepare,  break  a fine  ripe 
cocoa-nut,  lay  pieces  in  cold  water,  drain  and  dry  well,  then  grate  and 
put  in  little  heaps  on  a glass  dish.  Flatten  the  heaps  in  the  center 
so  as  to  make  a hollow  and  fill  with  preserves.  Whip  a pint  of  rich 
cream  to  a froth,  sweeten  and  flavor  with  lemon ; pile  this  on  top  of 
the  preserves  and  serve.  The  little  heaps  should  not  be  larger  round 
than  a dollar.  To  Dry  Cocoa-nut,  grate  three  or  four  and  put  in  pan 
with  one  cup  sugar ; steam  over  a kettle  of  hot  water  until  the  sugar 
is  melted ; set  in  the  oven  and  stir  frequently  until  dry. 

Salted  Almonds. — Blanch  shelled  Jordan  almonds,  place  in  a 
bed  of  salt  in  dripping  pan,  put  in  a rather  slow  oven,  watch  care- 
fully and  when  browned  and  nicely  flavored,  take  out.  A-  quantity 
can  be  made  at  a time.  Serve  as  a last  course  at  a dinner  or  even- 
ing party. 

Walnuts  and  Hickory  Nuts. — Crack  and  pick  from  shells; 
sprinkle  salt  lightly  over  and  serve  mixed  in  same  dish.  All  nuts  are 
much  more  wholesome  when  eaten  with  salt. 


Dried  Fruits. 


In  providing  a supply  of  fruit  for  winter  use,  every  experienced 
and  economical  housekeeper  prepares  an  abundance  of  dried  fruits. 
Drying  is  much  less  expensive  than  canning  or  preserving,  and  fruit 
wanted  for  pies,  puddings,  etc.,  is  better  if  preserved  in  this  manner, 
while  many  prefer  the  flavor  of  dried  peaches,  when  properly  done, 
to  that  of  the  finest  canned  fruit.  Time  and  care  are  both  required 
in  its  preparation,  however,  to  attain  satisfactory  results.  Always 
place  to.  dry  in  the  open  air  when  ])ossible,  but  when  much  fruit  is 
dried,  it  is  necessary  to  have  a house  for  the  purpose.  Small  quan- 


340 


DRIED  FRUITS. 


titles  should  be  so  arranged  as  to  be  placed  near  the  kitchen  fire  when 
taken  in  at  night  or  during  stormy  days.  Those  who  have  hot-bed 
sash,  can  easily  arrange  a drying  apparatus  which  will  dry  rapidly 
and  at  the  same  time  keep  off  insects.  A hot-bed  frame  with  a 
bottom  to  it,  and  raised  above  the  ground,  makes  a capital  drying 
box.  The  sash  should  be  elevated  at  one  end  to  allow  the  moisture 
to  pass  off,  covering  the  opening  with  netting.  Or  the  froit  will  dry 
nicely  if  spread  in  shallow  boxes  or  box  covers,  covered  with  mos- 
quito netting  to  prevent  flies  reaching  it.  When  impossible  to  dry 
out  of  doors,  the  fruit  may  be  placed  on  plates  and  dried  in  the  oven, 
but  care  must  be  taken  to  prevent  scorching.  A recently  patented 
convenience  is  a fruit  evaporator  for  family  use,  which  consists  of 
a rectangular  pan  of  thick  tin  about  two  and  a half  feet  long  by  four- 
teen inches  wide,  with  a double  bottom.  The  space  between  the 
bottoms  is  filled  with  hot  water  by  means  of  a little  pipe  that  pro- 
jects to  the  top  of  pan  from  one  corner ; the  fruit  is  placed  on  the 
upper  bottom  and  the  separator  is  set  on  the  stove  or  range  to  keep 
the  water  hot.  The  pan  can  be  moved  about  on  the  range,  or  set  off 
for  a few  minutes  if  wished  and  the  fruit  dries  rapidly  with  no  dan- 
ger of  burning.  Methods  of  preparing  and  drying  the  different  fruits 
are  described  hereafter.  When  thoroughly  dried,  put  away  in  jars 
in  dry  places  and  cover  closely,  or  tie  up  in  paper  sacks.  The  secret 
of  keeping  dried  fruit  is  to  exclude  the  lights  and  to  keep  in  a dry 
and  cool  place.  Paper  sacks,  or  a barrel  or  box  lined  with  paper? 
are  secure  against  moths.  Reheating  fruit,  which  is  necessary  if  it 
becomes  damp,  makes  it  dark  in  color  and  impairs  its  flavor,  and 
should  be  avoided  if  possible  by  keeping  in  a thoroughly  dry  place. 
When  a jar.  or  sack  of  dried  fruit  is  opened,  always  fill  a fruit  can 
or  small  sack,  and  keep  for  present  use,  to  avoid  opening  often.  It 
is  said  that  dried  fruit  put  away  with  a little  sassafras  bark  (say  a 
large  handful  to  a bushel)  will  keep  for  years  unmolested  by  those 
troublesome  little  insects  which  so  often  destro}^  hundreds  of  bush- 
els in  a single  season. 

Any  of  the  fruits  that  have  been  preserved  in  syrup  may  be  con- 
verted into  dry  preserves  by  first  draining  them  from  the  syrup,  and 
then  drying  them  in  a stove  or  very  moderate  oven,  adding  to  them 
a quantity  of  powdered  loaf  sugar,  which  will  gradually  penetrate 
the  fruit,  while  the  fluid  parts  of  the  syrup  gently  evaporate.  They 
should  be  dried  in  the  stove  or  oven  on  a sieve,  and  turned  every  six 


DRIED  FRUITS. 


341 


or  eight  hours,  fresh  powdered  sugar  being  sifted  over  them  every 
time  they  are  turned.  Afterwards,  they  are  to  be  kept  dry  in  draw- 
ers or  boxes.  Currants  and  cherries  preserved  whole  in  this  manner, 
in  bunches,  are  extremely  elegant,  and  have  a fine  flavor. 

Fruits  of  every  kind  may  be  candied  by  first  boiling  them  in 
syrup,  then  take  out  and  dry  in  a pan  on  stove  or  before  the  fire ; 
boil  the  syrup  to  a candy,  dip  fruit  into  it  once  more,  and  set  to  dry. 
Put  into  covered  boxes  or  patent  jars  it  will  keep  a long  time. 

To  freshen  figs,  wash  them  thoroughly  and  dry  on  a towel  and 
heat  them  in  the  oven  ; take  out  and  roll  in  powdered  sugar. 

In  selecting  dried  currants  secure  the  Zante  variety.  They  are 
not  currants  hut  a small  seedless  grape  from  the  Zante  Island,  and 
like  all  candied  and  dried  fruit,  such  as  citron,  lemon  and  orange 
peel,  etc.,  should  be  moist,  tender  and  without  crystals  of  sugar  on 
them.  In  raisins  the  Sultanas  or  Seedless,  which  come  to  us  from 
Smyrna,  packed  in  drums,  and  are  of  a light  amber  color,  plump 
and  moist,  rank  first  for  fine  cakes  and  puddings,  but  the  Valencia 
are  cheaper  and  more  commonly  used ; for  table,  the  loose  Mus- 
catels and  layer  raisins  are  preferred ; of  the  latter,  the  Dehesia  Layer 
is  the  finest,  very  large  and  fancy,  the  Cabinet  Layer,  in  bunches, 
stands  second,  and  the  London  Layer  third.  All  raisins  except  the 
Sultanas  should  be  large,  plump,  tender  and  fleshy,  with  a bluish 
cast  and  no  crystals.  The  California  raisins  have  a tough  skin  and 
large  seed,  and  are  not  nearly  so  desirable  as  foreign  importations, 
but  are  largely  used  on  account  of  the  very  low  price. 


Candied  Almonds. — Blanch  any  quantity  of  almonds,  then  fry 
in  butter  till  a light  brown  color ; wipe  nicely  with  a napkin,  and 
put  into  a pan.  Make  a syrup  of  white  sugar,  and  boil  to  a thread 
— that  is,  until  on  taking  a drop  of  the  sugar  between  the  finger  and 
thumb  it  will  produce  a thread  ; care  must  be  taken  to  boil  it  to  the 
exact  candying-point ; pour  it  boiling-hot  upon  the  almonds,  and  stir 
them  till  quite  cold.  An  excellent  method  of  pre|)aring  almonds  or 
any  nuts  for  dessert.  Or  simply  blanch  them,  roll  while  moist  in 
powdered  sugar,  and  place  in  oven  to  dry. 

Candied,  Apples. — Squeeze  juice  of  two  or  three  lemons  into 
preserving  kettle.  Peel,  core  and  slice  small  apples ; put  into  the 
lemon  juice  and  shake  over  the  fire  a minute  or  two  and  set  aside  to 


342 


DRIED  FRUITS. 


absorb  as  much  juice  as  possible.  When  quite  cold,  put  into  a syrup 
of  boiling  sugar  and  let  simmer  until  the  syrup  is  turned  to  sugar 
again.  Take  out  the  fruit  and  dry.  Or  peel  Golden  Pippins,  or  other 
nice  tart  apples,  and  put  them  into  a sauce-pan  cold  water;  let 
them  gradually  come  to  a boil,  when  remove  a little  from  the  fire, 
and  as  soon  as  they  begin  to  soften  take  up  and  drain.  To  one 
quart  water  in  which  they  were  boiled  put  a pound  and  a half  white 
sugar  ; boil  and  skim  it ; put  in  the  apples,  let  come  to  a boil,  and 
take  them  from  syrup ; repeat  this  operation  three  or  four  times  and 
put  them  on  a sieve  to  dry,  flatten  them  gently  with  the  hands,  and 
arrange  them  in  bon-bon  boxes. 

Candied  Cherries. — Make  a syrup  of  two  pounds  loaf  sugar 
and  one  cup  water  and  boil  until  thick  enough  to  “pull,’’  as  for  can- 
dy. Remove  to  side  of  range,  and  stir  until  it  shows  signs  of  gran- 
ulating, and  it  is  well  to  stir  frequently  while  cooking,  to  secure 
this  end.  When  there  are  grains  or  crystals  on  the  spoon,  drop  in 
carefully  stoned  cherries,  a few  at  a time.  Let  each  supply  lie  in  the 
boiling  syrup  two  minutes,  when  remove  to  a sieve  set  over  a dish. 
Shake  gently  but  long,  then  turn  the  cherries  out  upon  a cool,  broad 
dish,  and  dry  in  a sunny  window.  Enough  for  two  quarts  cherries. 

Candied  Citron. — Pare  the  citron,  remove  seeds, Tet  lay  over- 
night in  a weak  syrup.  Next  morning  drain  through  a colander; 
and  for  each  pound  citron,  take  a pound  white  sugar ; boil  the  sugar 
until  quite  a thick  syrup  is  formed,  then  drop  the  citron  in  and  cook 
down  thick  ; when  done,  pour  out  on  plates  and  leave  near  the  stove 
until  dry,  then  sprinkle  with  granulated  sugar  and  keep  in  glass  jars. 
Lemon  and  orange  peel  can  be  prepared  in  the  same  way,  but  with- 
out laying  in  syrup  overnight.  Or,  simply  boil  the  citron  in  water 
until  it  is  clear  and  soft  enough  to  be  easily  pierced  with  a fork ; 
take  out,  put  in  a nice  syrup  of  sugar  and  water,  and  boil  until  the 
sugar  has  penetrated  it.  Take  out  and  spread  on  dishes  to  dry 
slowly,  sprinkling  several  times  with  powdered  sugar,  and  turning 
until  it  is  dried  enough.  Pack  in  jars  or  boxes  with  sugar  between 
the  layers. 

Candied  Currants. — To  candy  currants  it  is  only  necessary  to 
dip  them  into  syrup  prepared  as  for  Candied  Cherries.  They  are 
made  very  nice  by  sifting  powdered  sugar  over  when  taken  from  the 
syrup.  Candied  Grapes  and  Berries  prepared  same  way. 

Candied  Lemon  Peel. — Soak  the  peels  in  salt  and  water  over- 
night ; in  the  morning  freshen  in  three  waters  and  boil  till  tender ; 
make  a syrup  of  a quart  water  to  a pound  sugar  and  simmer  the  peels 
in  it  half  an  hour ; pour  into  a bowl  together  and  let  stand  until  next 
day,  then  make  a syrup  to  ,cover  them  of  a pound  sugar  to  a pint 
water  for  each  pound  pulp,  Coiling  till  it  threads ; put  the  peel  into 


DRIED  FRUITS. 


343 


the  syrup,  boil  half  an  hour,  take  out  and  drain  on  a sieve,  and  as 
the  candy  dries,  transfer  to  a dish  to  dry  in  a warm  place.  Candied 
Orange  Peel  prepared  same  way.  When  the  orange  peel  is  sliced 
very  thick  it  is  called  Orange  Citron 

Candied  Peaches. — Peel  and  slice  ripe  peaches,  make  a thin 
syrup  and  boil  fruit  until  it  looks  clear ; lay  on  a sieve  to  drain, 
then  roll  in  dry  brown  sugar  and  expose  to  the  sun ; change  to  dry 
dishes,  dip  in  sugar  again  and  leave  until  entirely  dried  and  crys- 
tallized . 

Candied  Tomatoes. — Scald  and  skin  pear-shaped  ( or  any  small- 
sized) tomatoes,  and  to  eight  pounds  add  three  pounds  brown  sugar ; 
cook  without  water  until  the  sugar  penetrates  and  they  have  a clear 
appearance,  take  out,  spread  on  dishes,  and  dry  in  the  sun,  sprink- 
ling on, a little  syrup  while  drying;  pack  in  jars  or  boxes,  in  layers 
with  powdered  sugar  between.  Thus  put  up  they  will  keep  for  any 
length  of  time, ’and  are  nearly  equal  to  tigs.  Candied  Peaches  may 
be  prepared  in  same  way. 

Dried  Apples. — Take  only  good,  sound  fruit,  pare,  quarter  and 
core  and  slice  lengthwise ; spread  in  the  sun  or  fruit  evaporator  to 
dry,  or  run  them  on  strings  and  hang  near  kitchen  fire.  A piece  pf 
coarse  muslin  or  net  stretched  over  a frame  and  hung  from  the  ceil- 
ing, may  also  be  used  for  drying.  When  found  that  winter  apples 
are  not  keeping  well  it  is  an  excellent  plan  to  begin  drying  at  once 
to  prevent  waste,  and  despite  the  prejudice  against  dried  ap]des, 
the  fruit  so  put  up  at  home  may  be  made  with  a little  painstaking 
into  sauce  and  pies  that  will  be  eaten  with  a relish  in  the  spring 
when  fruit  is  scarce  and  high. 

Dried  Apple  Sauce. — Look  over  dried  apples  carefully  ana  soak 
until  tender  in  enough  cold  water  to  cover,  allowing  for  swelling.  The 
old-fashioned  dried  apple  requires  soaking  overnight,  or  for  several 
hours ; the  delicate  sliced  dried  apple,  sold  as  “evaporated  apple,” 
requires  only  about  fifteen  minutes,  in  just  water  enough  to  cover. 
The  former  must  be  carefully  washed  before  soaking,  but  the  sliced 
apple  is  perfectly  clean.  Boil  in  the  water  it  was  soaked  in,  stead- 
ily and  slowly,  and  stir  often,  keeping  closely  covered.  Break  up 
the  dried  rind  of  an  orange  for  every  quart  of  apple,  and  boil  with 
it.  When  soft,  like  jam,  take  off  and  rub  through  sieve.  Sweeten 
to  taste  and  serve  cold.  Some  like  to  season  highly  with  cinnamon. 
To  prepare  quickly,  soak  fifteen  minutes  in  clean  warm  water ; drain, 
cover  with  cold  soft  water,  place  on  the  stove,  let  boil  slowly  two  to 
four  hours,  mash  fine,  sweeten  and  season  with  cinnamon  very  highly. 
For  a nice  sauce  with  raisins,  put  two  pounds  dried  apples  and  one 
pound  raisins  in  a crock  with  plenty  of  Avater  and  set  on  back  of 
stove.  Let  boil  slowly  all  day.  When  almost  done  add  a lemon 


344 


DRIED  FRUITS. 


peeled  and  sliced  very  thin  and  two  pounds  sugar.  Never  add  sugar 
until  about  five  minutes  before  removing  from  the  stove,  otherwise 
the  fruit  will  be  toughened  and  hardened.  A nice  way  of  serving  is 
to  raise  a border  of  dried  apples  prepared  as  in  first  recipe  above, 
in  a large  dish  or  ice  cream  saucer,  as  the  case  may  he,  fill  the  hol- 
low middle  with  boiled  custard  and  spread  a meringue  of  sweetened 
and  whipped  whites  of  eggs  on  top.  Brown  with  hot  salamander  or 
shovel.  Black  Apple  Sauce  is  made  with  dried  apples  and  dried 
black  raspberries  stewed  together.  Soak  both  separately  overnight  in 
water  to  cover.  Stew  the  apples  in  water  soaked  in,  until  half  done, 
then  add  raspberries,  without  the  juice,  and  when  both  are  nearly 
done  sweeten  to  taste  and  simmer  gently  a few  moments  longer. 

Dried  Bananas. — A method  for  drying  bananas  has  been  pat- 
ented in  Jamaica,  and  they  may  now  be  purchased  in  the  larger 
cities.  The  fruit  retains  its  flavor  in  a remarkable  degree.  The 
banana  is  cut  in  half  lengthwise  and  dried  slowly,  which  prevents 
fermentation  and  decay.  They  are  prepared  for  us^  as  other  dried 
fruits. 

Dried  Blackherries. — Dry  in  the  sun,  or  fruit  evaporator,  or  in 
the  oven,  like  apples,  being  careful  when  drying  in  oven  not  to  scorch 
them  in  the  least.  Dried  thus,  blackberries  make  excellent  pies  and 
are  better  if  not  stewed  for  this  purpose.  If  simply  put  in  the  crust 
with  sufficient  water  and  sugar  and  a very  little  flour  they  will  be 
found  to  cook  quickly  and  retain  their  fresh  flavor  in  a remarkable 
degree.  Some  prefer,  however,  to  dry  them  with  sugar,  allowing  a 
pound  sugar  to  eight  or  ten  quarts  berries ; put  over  the  fire  with  a 
half  pint  water  and  bring  slowly  to  boiling  point ; then  skim  out 
berries  and  spread  on  plates  to  dry,  pouring  the  juice  over,  a little 
on  each  plate  Dried  Raspberries  may  be  prenared  after  either 
method. 

Dried  Cherries. — Cherries  may  be  put  into  a slow  oven  and 
thoroughly  dried  before  they  begin  to  change  color.  Be  careful  that 
the  oven  is  not  too  hot.  They  should  then  he  taken  out,  tied  in 
hunches  and  stowed  away  in  a dry  place.  Nice  cooked  with  sugar 
for  winter  dessert.  Another  method  of  drying  is  to  stone  them  and 
put  into  a preserving  kettle  with  plenty  of  sugar,  about  five  table- 
spoons to  each  quart ; simmer  till  the  fruit  shrivels,  when  it  should 
be  strained  from  the  juice.  Place  the  cherries  in  an  oven  cool 
enough  to  dry  without  baking  them.  The  same  syrup  may  be  used 
to  do  another  quantity  of  fruit,  though  some  boil  the  syrup  until 
very  thick  and  pour  it  over  the  fruit  as  it  dries,  a little  at  a time. 
Pack  in  jars  and  paste  paper  over  the  top.  An  excellent  method  of 
drying  both  cherries  and  currants  is  to  put  in  jars  first  a layer  of 
fruit,  then  a layer  of  sugar,  in  the  proportion  of  half  a pound  sugar 
to  pound  fruit  and  let  stand  overnight;  place  them  to  boil,  skim- 


l 


DRIED  FRUITS. 


345 


ining  off  all  scum,  let  boil  ten  or  fifteen  minutes,  skim  out  and 
spread  on  dishes  to  dry  in  the  sun,  or  by  the  fire,  turning  frequently 
vintil  dry ; then  place  on  pans  in  oven,  stirring  with  the  hand  often 
until  the  heat  is  too  great  to  bear.  They  may  then  be  packed  in  jars 
with  sugar,  or  put  away  in  paper  sacks,  or  stone  crocks  with  a cloth 
tied  closely  over  the  top,  and  are  an  excellent  substitute  for  raisins  in 
puddings  or  mince  pies.  To  dry  cherries  without  sugar,  stone,  and 
set  them  over  the  fire  in  the  preserving  pan ; let  them  simmer  in 
their  OAvn  liquor,  and  shake  them  in  the  pan  Put  them  in  common 
china  dishes ; next  day  scald  again  and  when  cold  put  on  sieves  to 
dry  in  moderate  oven.  Twice  heating,  an  hour  each  time,  will  do 
them.  Put  away  in  a box  with  a paper  between  each  layer. 

Dried  Currants. — Take  one  pint  sugar  to  a pint  stemmed  ripe 
currants ; put  them  together  in  a porcelain  kettle,  a layer  of  cur- 
rants at  the  bottom ; when  sugar  is  dissolved,  let  boil,  one  or  two 
minutes,  skim  from  the  syrup,  and  spread  on  plates  to  dry  in  a partly 
cooled  oven.  Boil  the  syrup  until  thickened,  pour  it  over  the  cur- 
rants, and  dry  it  with  them.  Pack  in  jars  and  cover  closely.  Blade- 
herries  may  be  dried  in  the  same  manner.  An  economical  way  of 
making  jelly  is  to  boil  the  liquid  after  currants  are  taken  out,  skim- 
ming well,  until  it  becomes  a jelly,  and  put  away  in  jelly  glasses. 

Dried  Gooseberries. — To  seven  pounds  goosederries  add  a pound 
and  a half  of  powdered  sugar,  strewing  it  over  them  in  preserving 
kettle.  Let  remain  over  a slow  fire  till  the}^  begin  to  break,  and 
then  remove.  Repeat  this  process  two  or  three  days ; then  take  the 
gooseberries  from  the  syrup  and  spread  out  on  sieves  in  the  sun  or 
near  the  fire  to  dry.  The  syrup  may  be  used  for  other  preserves. 
When  quite  dry  put  away  in  tin  boxes  on  layers  of  paper.  They 
will  keep  in  this  way  all  winter,  and  may  be  used  for  pies,  tarts,  etc. 

Dried  Greengages. — Procure  fruit  before  quite  ripe  and  leave 
stems  on.  Weigh,  and  allow  a pound  sugar  and  one-fourth  pint 
water  to  each  pound  fruit,  boil  to  a rich  syrup,  skim,  put  in  the  fruit 
and  boil  ten  minutes,  take  from  fire  and  drain  the -fruit;  next  day 
boil  the  syrup  and  put  in  the  fruit,  and  continue  the  process  five  or 
six  days  ; after  draining  the  last  time,  place  the  greengages  on  a haii 
sieve  and  set  in  oven  or  other  warm  spot  to  dry ; keep  in  a box,  with 
paper  between  each  layer,  in  a dry  place. 

Dried  Peaches. — In  preparing  peaches  for  drying,  if  peeled  at 
all  do  it  by  immersing  for  an  instant  in  hot  water  as  directed  in 
Canning  Fruits.  It  is  said  that  in  peaches,  as  in  potatoes,  the  best 
of  the  fruit  lies  nearest  the  skin,  and  for  this  reason  some  never  peel 
pdaches  for  any  purpose  but  rub  them  thorough^  with  a woolen 
cloth.  Dried  peaches  are  better  when  halved  and  the  cavities  sj^rinkled 
with  sugar  while  drying.  The  fruit  must  be  good,  however,  as  poor 


346 


DRIED  FRUITS. 


fruit  can  not  be  redeemed  by  any  process.  Another  excellent  way 
is  to  dry  them  in  the  oven,  and,  when  about  half  done,  place  in  a 
crock  a layer  of  peaches  alternately  with  a layer  of  sugar ; tie  papers 
over  them  and  set  away. 

Dried  Peach  Sauce. — Prepare  as  Dried  Apple  Sauce,  but  do 
not  mash  or  season  S’o  highly.  Cook  in  porcelain,  without  stirring, 
and  sweeten  to  taste  just  before  taking  from  fire.  Very  nice  sweet- 
ened Avith  maple  sugar. 

Dried  Pineapple. — Pare  and,  slice  the  fruit  thinly,  place  it  on 
dishes,  strew  oA^er  plenty  of  granulated  sugar,  and  keep  in  a hot 
closet  or  very  sloAvoA^en  eight  or  ten  days,  turning  the  fruit  every 
day  until  dry.  Then  put  the  slices  on  tins  and  set  them  in  a quick 
oven  for  ten  minutes.  Let  cool  and  put  aAvay  in  dry  boxes  with 
paper  betAveen  each  layer. 

Dried  Plums. — Selecx  perfect  fruit,  just  ripe  but  not  soft,  Avipe 
and  stone  and  put  in  a porcelain  kettle  with  a quarter  pound 
sugar  for  eA^ery  pound  fruit.  Heat  sloAvly  to  extract  the  juice  and 
scald  thoroughly,  but  Avithout  boiling.  Skim  the  plums  out  with  a 
coarse  Avire  skimmer  and  spread  carefully  on  platters  ; more  plums 
may  be  scalded  in  same  syrup,  and  when  all  are  done  boil  the  syrup 
until  quite  thick  and  pour  over  the  plums  placed  to  dry.  Dry  as 
quickly  as  possible.  Some  gather  plums  AA'hen  full  groAvn  and  just 
turning  color  and  dry  them  Avhole.  Prick  the  fruit,  to  prevent  burst- 
ing, put  into  a saucepan  cold  Avater  and  set  on  fire  until  at  boiling 
point ; then  take  out,  drain,  and  boil  gently  in  syrup,  made  in  pro- 
portion of  one-fourth  pint  Avater  to  eA^ery  pound  sugar.  If  the  plums 
shrink  and  AAullnot  take  the  sugar,  prick  them  as  they  lie  in  the  pan, 
giA^e  them  another  boil  and  set  them  aAvay.  Next  day  add  more 
sugar  boiled  almost  to  candy  ; put  all  together  in  Avide-mouthed  jar 
and  place  in  cool  oA^en  for  tAAn  nights.  Then  drain  the  plums  from 
the  syrup,  sprinkle  a little  poAA^dered  sugar  over  and  dry  in  a cool 
oven. 

Prunes. — Look  over  and  Avash  nice  French  prunes ; simmer 
gently  in  plenty  of  Avater,  Avith  a small  stick  cinnamon  and  a table- 
spoon strong  Aunegar  to  a pound  of  fruit,  for  at  least  six  hours,  and 
when  thus  thoroughly  done,  add  just  enough  brown  sugar  to  slightly 
sweeten  them  and  thicken  juice  Avith  aAnry  little  corn  starch  wnt  up 
in  cold  water ; or  in  placn  of  vinegar  use  a quarter  teaspoon  cream 
tartar  mixed  Avith  corn  starch,  let  prunes  just  boil  and  remoA^e  from 
stoA^e.  This  makes  a most  delicious  sauce  and  AA^hen  nearly  done  a 
feAV  kernels  extracted  from  the  prune  stones,  dropped  in  the  juice, 
give  a delicate  flavor. 

Broioned  Pnm,es. — Soak  prunes  overnight  in  cold  Avater,  boil 
until  tender,  not  allowing  them  to  break,  and  take  out  the  pits. 


DRIED  FRUITS. 


347 


Grate  some  chocolate,  mix  it  with  three  ounces  powdered  sugar  and 
beaten  whites  of  three  eggs.  Dip  the  prunes  one  by  one  in  the  mix- 
ture, and  put  them,  without  allowing  them  to  touch,  on  a buttered 
tin.  Bake  fifteen  minutes  and  serve  hot. 

Prime  Tapioca. — Soak  half  pint  tapioca  in  one  quart  watel 
three  or  four  hours,  keeping  it  just  tepid,  add  juice  of  a lemon,  and 
a little  grated  rind,  three-fourths  cup  sugar  and  boil  till  clear,  stir- 
ring  occasionally.  Place  one  and  half  pints  stewed,  sweetened  and 
seeded  prunes,  without  juice,  in  dish  and  cover  with  the  tapioca.  When 
cold  cover  with  some  whipped  cream  and  serve.  Or  for  Cherry  Tap- 
ioca^ place  two  cups  dried  cherries  or  three  of  stoned  fresh  ones, 
cooked  and  sweetened,  in  dish,  cover  with  the  boiled  tapioca,  and  it 
wished,  stir  together  and  put  in  a mold ; then  serve  with  whipped 
sweetened  cream. 

Prune  Whip. — Sweeten  to  taste  and  stew  three-quarters  pound 
prunes ; when  perfectly  cold^  add  whites  of  four  eggs  beaten  stiff ; 
stir  all  together  till  light,  put  in  a dish,  and  bake  twenty  minutes; 
when  cold,  serve  in 'a  larger  dish,  and  cover  well  with  good  cream. 

Dried  Fruit  in  Cakes. — Any  fruit  may  be  preserved  by  dry- 
ing as  follows  : To  every  pound  fruit  allow  half  pound  sugar,  with 
a little  water.  When  water  and  sugar  are  heated,  take  fruit  in  skim- 
mer, and  dip  it  for  about  a minute  into  the  sugar,  then  spread  it  on 
tins.  After  all  the  fruit  has  been  done  thus,  boil  down  the  sugar  to 
a rich,  thick  syrup,  and  pour  it  over  the  Iruit.  The  fruit  must  now 
be  put  either  in  the  sun,  or  in  a warm  oven,  till  it  is  in  a dried  ge- 
latinous condition.  Let  remain  till  quite  dry,  when  put  in  bags,  di- 
viding it  into  cakes.  These  cakes  v/ill  keep  a long  time,  and  when 
wanted  for  use,  merely  require  a little  hot  water  put  to  them,  and 
probably  extra  sugar. 

Fruit  Pastes. — These  are  really  candied  fruits  in  another  form. 
Oare  must  be  taken  in  cooking  not  to  scorch  them.  For  an  Apple 
Paste,  peel  and  core  sound,  ripe  apples  and  put  in  water  until  quite 
soft ; then  rub  through  a puree  sieve  with  a wooden  spoon,  wxigh  the 
pulp  and  put  in  a preserving  kettle  with  same  Aveight  of  sugar  and 
boil  tAventy  minutes  ; pour  out  thin  on  plates  or  in  molds  and  dry 
on  a cool  stoA^e  or  in  a cool  oven.  Or,  put  an  equal  v/eight  of  ap- 
ples and  stoned  plums  into  a preserving  pan.  Boil  without  adding 
any  Avater.  When  the  fruit  begins  to  get  soft  add  a pound  sugar  to 
each  pound  pulp.  Boil  sloAAdy  for  an  hour,  and  pour  into  shalloAv 
molds ; place  these  in  a sIoav  oven,  Avhen  the  preserve  Avill  dry  un- 
til it  resembles  a Fruit  Cheese.  To  make  an  Apricot  Paste,  take 
ripe  apricots,  and  put  them  in  a preserving-pan  Avith  a little  sugar, 
place  on  the  side  of  tlie  fire  to  reduce  to  paste,  then  rub  through  a hair 
sieve,  alloAving  a half  pound  sifted  sugar  to  every  pound  pulp.  Put 


348 


DRIED  FRUITS. 


it  on  the  fire  and  boil  ten  minutes.  Spread  on  tins  to  dry.  Make 
Peach  Paste  the  same,  cooking  ten  minutes  longer.  For  Currant 
Pastey  take  either  red  or  white  currants,  rub  through  a sieve,  after 
having  picked  them  over  thoroughly ; put  the  mashed  fruit  in  a pan 
over  the  fire,  stirring  until  it  forms  a paste ; remove  it,  and  to  every 
pound  pulp  put  one  and  quarter  pounds  fine  sugar.  Mix  together, 
and  boil  twenty  minutes ; spread  out  on  tin  plates,  cut  into  shapes 
and  dry.  For  Orange  Paste^  press  out  the  juice  of  five  Seville 
oranges,  boiling  the  rinds  till  they  are  very  soft.  With  a thin  wooden 
or  bone  spoon  scoop  out  the  pulp  ; pound  the  rinds  in  a mortar,  as  fine 
as  possible,  with  half  the  juice  of  the  oranges.  Rub  all  through  a 
hair  sieve,  and  keep  on  the  fire  until  it  becomes  like  marmalade. 
Empty  it  out  and  weigh,  allowing  two  pounds  fine  granulated  sugar 
to  each  pound  pulp.  Boil  it  ten  minutes,  spread  out  thin  on  tin 
plates  or  tins,  and  cut  it  to  any  shape  ; dry  it  and  keep  in  tin  boxes. 
Make  Lemon  Paste  in  same  manner,  but  do  liot  use  any  juice.  To 
make  either  Cherry  or  Plum  Paste  stone  the  fruit,  boil  «o  a jam,  put 
through  a sieve  and  finish  as  in  first  recipe  for  Apple  I aste.  These 
pastes  may  be  cut  into  rings  or  any  fancy  shapes,  and  colored  with 
a few  droDS  of  the  usual  coloring. 


GAME. 


349 


G^AME. 


Under  this  head  are  included  all  the  edible  wild  animals  and 
wild  fowl.  No  market  in  the  world  is  so  abundantly  supplied 
'vvith  this  species  of  food  as  the  American.  The  point  of  contrast 
between  the  flesh  of  wild  animals  and  that  of  domesticated  and  ar- 
tifically  fed  ones  is  the  greater  hardness  and  solidity  of  the  flesh,  the 
greater  proportion  of  solid  fibre  to  the  juices,  the  less  proportion  of 
water  and  flit  in  the  juices,  and  the  greater  proportion  of  lean  to  fat. 
Hence  it  follows  that  under  the  same  circumstances  (say  when  both 
the  wild  and  the  tame  animals  have  been  killed  within  a day)  the 
mastication  of  the  flesh  of  wild  animals  is  less  easy,  the  flavor  is 
more  concentrated,  and  the  proportion  of  flesh-forming  compounds 
is  greater.  They  are  therefore  strong  foods,  and  if  well  digested 
are  highly  nutritious.  Their  decided  flavor  is  also  a recommenda- 
tion to  invalids  or  others  who,  being  satiated  with  ordinary  food, 
need  something  to  stimulate  a defective  appetite.  White  meated  game 
should  be  cooked  to  well-done  ; dark  meated  game  rare,  and  should 
always  be  sent  to  table  very  Jwty  with  hot  plates.  Keeping  game 
renders  it  more  tender,  and  brings  out  its  flavor,  and  the  longer  it 
can  be  kept  without  tainting  the  better  it  is.  This  is  especially  true 
of  the  phe'asant  and  snipe.  Any  game  may  be  kept  several  days  in 
good  condition  by  caring  for  it  as  follows : Pick,  draw  and  rinse 
quickly  with  pure  cold  water ; wipe  dry,  and  rub  lightly  inside  with  a 
mixture  of  fine  salt  and  black  pepper.  If  to  be  kept  quite  a while^ 
put  in  the  cavity  of  each  fowl  a piece  of  charcoal,  or  rub  in- 
side and  out  with  powdered  charcoal,  hang  in  a cool  dark 
place  and  cover  with  a cloth,  alwnys  hanging  by  the  neck.  Small 


^AME. 


TdO 


birds,  unless  too  many  of  them,  may  be  kept  in  refrigerator.  Char- 
coal is  an  admirable  preventive  of  decomposition.  If  hunters  would 
draw  game  immediately  after  killing  and  stuff  with  hay,  until  it 
could  be  placed  in  the  hands  of  the  cook,  it  would  be  found  to  have 
a fresher,  finer  flavor  and  would  keep  much  longer.  Of  game  birds 
the  woodcock  outranks  all  in  delicate  tenderness  and  sweet  flavor, 
but  must  not  be  kept  too  long.  The  thigh  is  especially  deemed  a 
choice  tidbit.  The  leg  is  the  finest  part  of  the  sni];e,  but  generally 
the  breast  is  the  most  juicy  and  nutritious  part  of  birds.  When 
birds  have  become  tainted,  pick  clean  as  soon  as  possible  and  im- 
merse in  new  milk  for  twenty-four  hours,  when  they  will  be  quite 
sweet  and  fit  for  cooking.  Prairie  chickens  will  keep  well  two  or 
three  days.  Birds  should  l)e  carefulh/  dry-picked  if  feathers  are 
wished,  and  if  the  wungs  are  wanted,  cut  them  off  at  the  first  joint  be- 
fore picking.  Some  then  remove  all  feathers  that  come  off  easily, 
plunge  for  an  instant  in  boiling  hot  water,  and  finish  picking ; while 
others  do  not  put  in  water  at  all.  When  picked,  singe,  draw,  wipe 
clean  and  remove  all  shot.  Or,  a quicker,  easier  and  much  nicer  way 
is  to  skin  without  picking ; if  the  skin  is  not  broken  make  a small 
incision  in  the  back  and  it  will  easily  pull  off.  It  is  better  not  to  skin 
ducks  and  geese,  which  should  be  dry-picked,  scalded,  and  rolled  in  a 
woolen  cloth  ten  or  fifteen  minutes ; then  finish  picking  and  scrape 
the  skin  if  necessary.  Singe,  draw  and  dress.  Singeing  with  alco- 
hol is  much  nicer  and  cleaner  than  with  paper  and  does  not  darken 
the  skin.  Pour  four  or  five  tablespoons  in  a pan,  light  it  and  hold 
game  over  it.  If  more  alcohol  is  wished,  do  not  add  till  all  is  con- 
sumed. 

Game  should  not  be  washed,  unless  absolutely  necessary  for 
cleanliness.  With  care  in  dressing,  wiping  inside  with  a damp  cloth 
will  render  them  perfectly  clean.  If  necessary  to  wash,  do  it  quickly 
and  use  as  little  water  as  possible.  Some  wash  the  inside  of  game, 
particularly  prairie  chickens,  with  soda  and  water,  rinsing  well  with 
clear  water,  then  dry  with  cloth.  The  more  plainly  all  kinds  of 
wild  birds  are  cooked  the  better  they  retain  their  fine  flavor.  They 
require  a brisker  fire  than  poultry,  but  take  less  time  to  cook.  Their 
color,  when  done,  should  be  a fine  yellowish  brown. 

Broiling  is  a favorite  method  of  cooking  game,  and  all  birds 
are  exceedingly  nice  roasted,  especially  quail.  To  broil,  split  down 
the  back,  open  and  flatten  the  breast  bone  by  covering  with  a cloth 


GAME. 


and  pounding,  and  lay  the  inside  first  upon  the  gridiron ; turn  as 
soon  as*  browned,  and  when  almost  done  take  off,  place  on  a platter, 
sprinkle  with  salt,  and  return  to  the  gridiron.  When  done,  place 
in  a hot  dish,  butter  both  sides  well  and  serve  at  once.  The  time 
required  is  usually  about  twenty  minutes.  Broiling  is  the  simplest 
of  all  forms  of  cooking  and  may  be  done  well  with  a little  attention. 
A brisk,  clear  fire,  not  too  high  in  the  stove,  is  necessary  1 _)  do  it  with 
ease,  but  if  necessary  to  have  a high  fire  for  other  cooking,  elevate 
the  gridiron  on  two  bricks  to  prevent  scorching.  Have  the  gridiron 
very  hot  and  butter  it  before  putting  on  the  birds.  If  the  fire  is  not 
very  clear,  and  a fiat  broiler  or  gridiron  is  used,  put  a cover  over  the 
meat  to  prevent  blackening  or  burning.  It  is  well  to  always  do  this 
with  birds  or  chickens,  which  are  otherwise  apt  to  be  rare  at  the 
joints.  It  is  a good  plan  to  put  birds  in  a hot  oven  about  ten  min- 
utes before  broiling,  and  lay  a spoonful  drawn  butter  on  the  breast 
of  each.  If  very  dry  dip  in  melted  butter,  or,  better  still,  oil  them 
all  over  before  cooking.  There  is  nothing  more  unsightly  than  a 
dish  of  sprawling  chickens  or  birds,  and  to  serve  them  in  good  form 
they  should  be  nicely  placed  in  the  broiler,  with  the  bones  broken  as 
above. 

To  Roast  Gaine. — Rub  inside  with  salt  and  pepper  and  place  a 
lump  of  butter  in  each  bird.  Truss  the  same  as  poultry,  skewer  and 
place  on  spit  before  an  open  fire,  or,  as  is  more  usually  done,  roast 
in  oven.  Some  still  prefer  the  old  way  of  leaving  the  head  on  and 
tucking  under  the  wing,  but  this  is  not  much  practiced  now.  Cut 
off  the  head,  push  the  skin  down  and  cut  off  the  neck,  then  draw  the 
skin  smoothly  over  and  fasten  to  the  back.  The  flavor  is  best  pre- 
served without  stuffing,  but  a plain  bread-dressing  with  a piece  of 
salt  pork  or  ham  skeAvered  on  the  breast  is  A'Cry  nice.  A delicate 
way  of  dressing  small  birds  is  to  place  an  oyster  dipped  in  the  Avell- 
beaten  yolk  of  an  egg  or  in  melted  butter,  and  then  rolled  in  bread 
crumbs,  inside  each  bird.  AIIoav  thirty  minutes  to  roast,  or  longer 
if  stuffed.  Wild  ducks,  pheasants,  prairie  chickens  and  grouse  are 
always  best  roasted.  Do  not  sprinkle  the  outside  of  game  or  any 
meat  with  salt  or  pepper  before  putting  in  oven,  as  salt  draAvs  out 
the  juices,  the  flavor  of  pepper  is  entirely  changed  by  the  parch- 
ing on  the  surface,  and  it  also  emits  an  unpleasant  odor.  This  ap- 
plies also  to  broiling  and  frying.  Ahvays  pepper  the  bird  after  it  is 
cooked,  ujiing  Avhite  pepper.  Baste  often,  every  five  or  ten  minutes, 


352 


GAME. 


with  melted  butter,  hot  water  and  butter  or  the  drippings  in  the 
pan,  and  to  give  a handsome  frothy  appearance,  when  nearly  done 
baste  with  butter,  dredge  over  with  flour  and  brown,  baste  with  but- 
ter again,  close  the  oven  a few  moments  and  the  bird  will  come  out 
beautifully  finished.  Use  an  empty  spice-box  with  perforated  top 
for  dredging  and  a brush  or  spoon  for  basting ; the  brush  is  espe- 
cially nice  "^or  putting  over  the  melted  butter  in  frothing.  To  keep 
hot  while  n ’aking  the  gravy,  place  in  a pan  on  a trivet  in  the  oven, 
or  in  a colander  lined  with  soft  paper,  and  if  in  danger  of  becoming 
too  brown,  cover  with  another  pan,  or  a paper  cap  kept  for  the  pur- 
pose. Larding  game  is  a very  nice  way  of  preparing  it  for  roasting, 
and  will  be  found  fully  described  in  Meats. 

To  Steam  Game^  prepare  as  for  roasting,  place  in  steamer  and 
steam  until  tender.  The  length  of  time  will  of  course  depend  upon 
size  and  kind  of  game.  When  tender  put  in  oven  to  brown,  baste, 
and  finish  as  in  roasting.  As  the  meat  of  most  game  is  rather  dry, 
this  is  an  excellent  mode  of  cooking,  the  steaming  m^aking  it  more 
moist. 

To  Fry  Game,  prepare  small  birds  as  for  roasting,  and  cut  up 
the  larger  ones.  Small  birds  may  be  double-breaded  ( see  Croquettes ) 
and  dropped  whole  into  hot  fat,  others  cut  up  and  fried  in  joints. 
Pigeons  and  the  birds  of  coarser  fiesh  will  need  to  be  parboiled  if 
fried  thus.  Half  drippings  and  half  lard  make  a good  frying  mnxture. 
Some  prefer  to  roll  game  in  corn  meal  and  fry  in  butter,  or  half  but- 
ter and  half  drippings,  in  frying  pan,  and  it  is  excellent  either  way 
but  presents  a finer  appearailce  v/hen  fried  by  immersion. 

Pigeons  should  be  cooked  a long  time,  as  they  are  usually  quite 
lean  and  tough,  and  they  are  better  to  lie  in  salt  water  half  an  hour, 
or  to  be  parboiled  in  it  for  a few  minutes.  Wild  duck  should  be 
cooked  rare,  with  or  without  stuffing.  If  the  ‘ Vild  flavor”  of  the 
Wger  birds,  such  as  pheasants,  prairie  chickens,  etc.,  is  disliked, 
they  may  be  soaked  overnight  in  salt  water,  or  two  or  three  hours 
in  soda  and  water,  or  parboiled  with  an  onion  or  two  in  the  water, 
and  then  cooked  as  desired.  The  coarser  kinds  of  game,  such  as 
geese,  ducks,  etc.,  may  lie  in  salt  water  for  several  hours,  or  be  par- 
boiled in  it  with  an  onion  inside  each  to  absorb  the  rank  flavor,  and 
afterwards  thoroughly  rinsed  in  clear  water,  stuffed  and  roasted ; or 
pare  a fresh  lemon  without  breaking  the  thin,  white,  inside  skin, 
put  inside  the  game  for  a day  or  two,  renewing  the  lemon  everv 


«AME'. 


353 


twelve  hours.  This  will  absorb  unpleasant  flavors  from  almost  all 
meat  and  game.  Some  lay  slices  of  onion  over  game  while  cook- 
ing, and  remove  before  serving,  and  others  baste  two  or  three  times 
at  first  with  hot  water,  to  which  an  onion  apd  a little  salt  have  been 
added.  Use  plent}^  of  butter  in  cooking.  In  preparing  fat  wild 
ducks  for  invalids,  it  is  a good  plan  to  remove  the  skin,  and  keep  a 
day  or  two  before  cooking.  Squirrels  should  be  carefully  skinned 
and  laid  in  salt  water  a short  time  before  cooking  ; if  old,  parboil. 
They  are  delicious  broiled,  and  are  excellent  cooked  in  any  way 
with  thin  slices  of  bacon.  Venison,  as  in  the  days  of  good  old  Isaac, 
is  still  justly  considered  a “savoury  dish.”  The  haunch,  neck, 
shoulder  and  saddle  should  be  roasted ; roast  or  broil  the  breast, 
and  fry  or  broil  steaks  with  slices  of  salt  pork,  and  it  may  be  cooked 
in  almost  the  same  manner  as  beef,  but  requires  longer  cooking, 
must  be  sent  to  table  very  hot,  and  is  generally  preferred  very  rare. 
Venison  is  not  so  delicate  when  fresh  as  after  it  has  been  kept  from 
three  to  eight  days.  When  not  consumed  at  once  keep  in  a dark 
cool  cellar  with  a cloth  round  it.  The  hams  are  excellent  pickled, 
smoked  and  dried,  but  they  will  not  keep  so  long  as  other  smoked 
meats.  French  cooks  improve  the  flavor  of  venison  by  putting  the 
meat  in  a jar  for  several  days  with  one  pint  vinegar  to  eve^^y  six 
pounds  meat,  two  bay  leaves,  two  cloves,  some  garlic  and  onion 
sliced,  thyme,  parsley  and  whole  pepper-corns.  Let  this  mixture 
boil  once,  then  pour  it  over  the  meat,  and  turn  occasionally  while  it 
stands  in  the  jar.  Cutlets  prepared  this  way  are  much  better.  The 
seasonings  are  spread  over  them,  they  are  then  wrapped  in  buttered 
paper  and  broiled  over  a quick  fire. 

Bear  meat,  especially  the  flesh  of  young  bear,  nearly  resembles 
a good  quality  of  beef,  and  may  be  fried,  broiled,  roasted,  or  cooked 
like  beef  in  any  way  preferred.  Many  lard  it  for  roasting,  and  the 
time  required  is  about  twenty  minutes  to  the  pound.  The  meat  of 
young  buffalo  is  also  much  like  that  of  fat  beef  and  may  be  cooked 
as  fresh  beef. 

Any  kind  of  game  may  be  hashed  and  the  flavor  may  be  varied 
by  adding  flavored  vinegars,  curry  powder,  etc. ; but  we  do  not 
recommend  these  ingredients,  as  a dish  of  game  should  really  taste 
of  game ; and  if  too  many  sauces,  essences,  etc.,  are  added  to  the 
gravy,  they  quite  overpower  and  destroy  the  flavor.  In  warming 
over  cold  game,  do  not  cook  too  long — merely  heat  through  or  bring 


354 


GAME. 


to  the  boil,  but  do  not  boil.  In  serving  game  the  beauty  of  the  dish 
is  greatly  enhanced  by  a garnish  of  green  leaves,  or ‘other  things 
mentioned  with  the  recipes,  but  this  is  not  a necessity.  Epicures 
generally  do  not  consider  game  ripe  for  cooking  until  more  or  less 
tainted,  and  prefer  it  cooked  very  rare,  barely  more  than  warmed 
through.  Small  birds  aie  also  often  roasted  or  made  into  pies  with- 
out drctwing,  or  removing  the  trail  as  it  is  called,  and  are  esteemed 
very  dainty  by  the  epicures,  among  whom,  however,  are  numbered 
very  few  of  our  excellent  American  housekeepers. 


Boiled  Wild  Duck. — Dress  and  rub  well  inside  with  salt  and 
pepper,  truss  and  tie  in  shape,  drawing  the  legs  in  to  the  body,  in 
which  put  one  or  two  sage  leaves,  a little  finely-chopped  onion,  and 
a little  jellied  stock  or  gravy ; rub  over  with  salt  and  pepper;  make 
a paste  in  the  proportion  of  one-half  pound  butter  to  one  pound 
flour,  in  which  inclose  the  duck,  tie  a cloth  around  all,  and  boil  two 
hours  or  until  quite  tender,  keeping  it  well  covered  with  boiling 
water.  Serve  by  pouring  round  it  brown  gravy  made  as  follows  : 
Put  a lump  of  butter  size  of  an  egg  in  a saucepan  with  a little 
minced  onion ; cook  until  slightly  brown,  then  add  a small  table- 
spoon flour,  stir  well,  and  when  quite  brown  add  a half  pint  stock 
or  water ; let  cook  a few  minutes,  strain  and  add  to  the  chopped 
giblets,  previously  stewed  till  tender. 

Broiled  Wild  Duck. — Carefully  pluck  a pair  of  ducks,  singe, 
wipe  them  with  a wet  towel,  split  down  the  back,  and  remove  the 
entrails  without  breaking  ; put  the  birds  between  the  bars  of  a but- 
tered gridiron,  place  the  inside  to  the  fire,  and  broil  them  until 
brown  ; then  brown  the  outside,  season  with  salt  and  cayenne, put  a 
very  little  butter  over  the  birds,  and  serve  with  orange  salad  or  jelly. 
For  Baked  Wild  Duck  prepare  in  same  manner  and  bake  in  hot 
oven  till  tender,  placed  in  a dripping  pan  with  a little  butter.  When 
half  done  season  with  salt  and  just  before  removing  from  oven  pep- 
per and  serve  with  the  gravy  from  pan*and  a dish  of  currant  jelly  or 
damson  jam. 

Hashed  Wild  Duck. — Cut  remains  cold  roast  duck  into  neat 
joints,  put  them  into  a stewpan  with  one  pint  good  brown  gravy, 
two  tablespoons  bread-crumbs,  salt,  cayenne,  and  mixed  spices  to 
taste  and  a tablespoon  lemon  or  Seville  orange  juice ; let  them  heat 
gradually,  stirring  occasionally;  when  on  the  point  of  boiling,  serve, 
and  garnish  the  dish  with  croutons  of  toasted  bread. 

Ragout  of  Wild  Duck. — Ducks  that  have  been  dressed  and  left 
from  the  preceding  day  wfiU  answer  for  this  dish.  Cut  into  joints, 


GAME. 


355 


reserve  the  legs,  wings  and  breasts  until  wanted ; put  the  trimmings 
into  a stewpan  with  four  shallots  and  a pint  stock,  simmer  about 
half  an  hour,  and  strain  the  gravy.  Put  a tablespoon  butter  into  a 
stewpan;  when  melted,  dredge  in  a little  flour,  and  pour  in  the 
gravy  made  from  the  bones;  boil  and  strain  again;  add  juice  of 
half  a lemon  and  cayenne  and  salt  to  taste ; lay  in  the  pieces  of 
duck,  and  gradually  warm  through,  but  do  not  boil,  or  the  meat  will 
be  hard.  The  gravy  should  not  be  too  thick,  and  should  be  very 
highly  seasoned.  The  squeeze  of  a Seville  orange  is  a great  im- 
provement to  this  dish. 

Boast  Wild  Duck. — The  peculiar  flavor  of  wild  ducks  is  not 
liked  by  many  and  may  be  removed  by  parboiling  with  a carrot  or 
an  onion  before  roasting,  having  first  singed  them,  wiped  well  the  in- 
side with  wet  towel  and  cut  off  head.  When  tender  stuff  with  a 
bread-dressing  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper,  onion  and  sage ; roast  be- 
fore a brisk  fire  or  in  oven,  basting  often,  until  brown  and  tender. 
When  the  ducks  are  taken  up,  skim  and  thicken  the  gravy  with 
browned  flour  and  send  to  table  in  a tureen.  Serve  currant  or  grape 
jelly  with  the  ducks.  Instead  of  the  stuffing,  a simple  dressing  of 
parboiled  onions  mixed  with  chopped  sage,  salt,  pepper  and  a good 
slice  of  butter  may  be  employed,  or  stuff  with  chopped  celery  or 
mashed  potatoes  and  when  brown  season  with  salt  and  pepper.  It 
will  take  about  three-quarters  of  an  hour  to  roast  ducks  well  ; 
tAventy  minutes  Avill  do  them  rare.  When  preferred  rare  it  is 
best  not  to  stuff  them.  Cut  an  onion  in  two  and  put  in  the 
body,  then  truss  or  bind,  dredge  with  salt,  pepper  and  cloA^es  and 
roast  in  quick  oven  thirty  minutes  or  before  a hot  fire  forty,  basting 
. often.  Serve  with  currant  jelly  or  equal  parts  currant  jelly  and  dry 
mustard  mixed,  or  Avith  garnish  of  fried  hominy  and  currant  jelly, 
or  apple  sauce  and  green  peas.  Teal  can  be  cooked  like  Wild  Duck. 
Many  cooks  stuff  them  Avith  a bread  and  onion  dressing,  but  this 
(spoils  their  flavor ; it  is  better  to  serA^e  an  onion  and  bread  sauce 
with  them,  if  liked.  The  birds  should  be  quickly  roasted  or  baked 
in  a hot  oven  from  tAventy  to  thirty  minutes,  as  they  are  liked 
medium  or  Avell  done.  Season  Avith  pepper  and  salt  and  serA^e  a 
sliced  lemon  or  fresh  green  salad  with  them. 

Stewed  Wild  Duck. — Cut  up  and  parboil  fifteen  minutes  with 
a carrot  or  onion  ; cut  into  joints,  put  in  a steAvpan  and  cover  Avith 
a gravy  made  of  the  giblets,  neck,  etc. ; season  Avith  salt  and  pepper, 
a bunch  sweet  herbs  and  chopped  onions,  and  steAV  gently  till  done. 
Take  up  the  meat,  thicken  the  graA^y  AAuth  broAAmed  flour,  boil  up 
once,  jjour  oA^er  the  duck  and  serve  immediately.  Or  for  a Steio  with 
Green  Peas.,  parboil,  or  half  roast,  then  put  into  a stewpan  Avith  a 
pint  Avater,  or  beef  gravy,  a feAV  chopped  mint  and  sage  leaves,  pep- 
per, salt  and  half  an  onion  chopped  very  fine.  Cook  fifteen  minutes 
9nd  skim  out  the  herbs ; then  add  a quart  green  peas  and  cook  half 


356 


GAME. 


hour  longer.  Stir  in  a tablespoon  each  butter  and  flour,  boil  up 
once,  and  serve  with  the  duck  in  center  of  dish  and  peas  around. 
Some  prefer  to  cook  the  peas  separately  and  serve  rounded  up  in 
center  with  the  joints  around.  Some  stuff  and  roast  the  ducks 
twenty  minutes  then  take  out  and  stew  as  above.  Duck  Stewed  icith 
Rice  is  liked  by  many.  To  prepare,  quickly  brown  the  duck  in  a 
hot  oven ; meantime  peel  an  onion,  chop  it  fine,  and  put  into  a 
saucepan  with  heaping  tablespoon  butter ; when  the  duck  is  brown, 
cut  in  joints,  put  with  the  butter  an  onion,  and  fry  all  together  till 
ihe  onion  is  brown ; then  stir  in  a tablespoon  flour  and  brown  it, 
add  a pint  of  boiling  water,  a high  seasoning  of  salt  and  |:>epper,  and 
half  a cup  of  rice  which  has  been  picked  over  and  washed.  Cover 
and  cook  all  gently  half  an  hour,  being  careful  not  to  burn.  If  rice 
absorbs  all  tlie  water,  add  more  as  required,  but  do  not  make  very 
moist.  When  both  rice  and  duck  are  tender,  serve  them  together. 
The  remains  of  a cold  roast  duck  may  be  made  into  a stew  with  a 
pint  gravy  and  a little  sage  ; cover  closely,  and  simmer  half  an  hour  * 
add  a pint  boiled  green  peas,  stew  a few  minutes,  remove  to  a dish, 
and  pour  over  it  the  gravy  and  peas. 

Salmi  of  Duck, — Save  remnants  of  cold  duck  or  other  game 
trim  meat  off  neatly,  set  aside ; place  all  the  remains  (bones,  gravy, 
etc.,)  in  a saucepan  and  cover  with  cold  water;  bring  gently  to  a 
boil ; skim,  add  an  onion  that  has  been  cut  up  and  fried  brown  {not 
hurned) ; simmer  gently  for  about  an  hour,  then  set  saucepan 
in  a cool  place  long  enough  to  allow  the  fat  to  rise  and  ‘‘settle  on 
top  skim  this  off  carefully — it  will  be  nice  to  fry  potatoes  with. 
Now  return  saucepan  to  fire,  and  when  about  to  boil  strain  off“  liquid  ; 
set  on  again,  add  salt  and  skim.  If  the  liquid  looks  cloudy,  let  it 
boil  up,  throw  in  a little  cold  water,  and  the  scum  will  rise.  Now 
put  in  the  pepper  and  such  spice  as  may  be  desired,  also  a bunch  of 
herbs  tied  up  in  a piece  of  muslin,  or  very  finely  powdered.  Take 
a large  spoon  of  flour  that  has  been  baked  in  the  oven  and  kept  for 
gravy,  mix  it  well  with  a lump  of  butter  same  size,  put  this  and  the 
meat  all  in  together  and  stir  well  until  it  is  just  ready  to  boil  again, 
but  see  that  it  does  not  hoil'y  cover  closely  and  set  back  where  it 
may  keep  very  hot  without  cooking.  The  safest  plan  is  to  put  the 
saucepan  in  a vessel  of  hot  water  for  ten  or  fifteen  minutes. 

Roast  Wild  Goose. — Dry  pick,  as  feathers  are  especiall}^  choice, 
and  if  possible  pick  clean,  as  meat  is  nicer  if  not  scalded,  but  if  all 
cannot  be  removed,  plunge  in  boiling  water,  wrap  quickly  in  a 
woolen  cloth  and  let  stand  fifteen  minutes,  when  finish  picking  and 
scrape  with  a knife  to  better  clean  the  skin,  singe  with  alcohol,  draw, 
wash  or  wipe  clean  andparboil  with  an  onioii  inside  (a large  onion  to 
an  eight-pound  goose)  in  slightly  salted  boiling  water  till  commenc- 
ing to  be  tender,  half  an  hour  for  a young  goose,  longer  if  an  old  one. 
Take  out,  rub  inside  with  salt  and  pepper  and  stuff  with  a Bread' 


GAME. 


357 


Dressing  as  given  in  first  recipe  for  Roast  Turkey,  or  as  follows : 
Quart  finely  minced  bread-crumbs,  tablespoon  minced  onion,  level 
teaspoon  each  salt,  pepper,  sage  and  chopped  parsley  if  liked,  one 
egg,  half  cup  warm  water,  half  cup  butter  or  fat  from  fried  sausage; 
mix  ingredients  all  together  in  a pan,  not  making  the  dressing 
too  moist,  as  it  vfill  absorb  gravy  while  baking.  The  egg  should  be 
first  mixed  with  the  water.  Or  stuff  with  a Potato- Dressing  made 
as  follows  : Mash  six  boiled  potatoes  through  a colander,  and  add 
two  teaspoons  each  butter  and  onion  juice,  and  one  each  salt,  white 
pepper  and  sage ; or  first  chop  an  onion  and  fry  a light  yellow  in  the 
butter,  and  add  the  potato  and  a well-beaten  egg.  Or  for  an  Onion- 
Dressing^  peel  four  large  onions,  put  into  boiling  water,  let  simmer 
five  or  ten  minutes  and  just  before  they  are  taken  out  put  in  ten 
sage  leaves  for  a minute  or  two  to  take  off  their  rawness,  skim  out 
and  chop  very  Une^  add  quarter  pound  bread-crumbs,  seasoning,  and 
two  tablespoons  butter,  and  work  the  whole  together  with  yolk  of 
an  egg,  when  the  stuffing  will  be  ready  for  use.  It  should  be  rather 
highly  seasoned,  and  many  do  not  parboil  the  onions,  but  merely) 
use  them  raw.  The  stuffing  then  is  not  nearly  so  mild.  This  m 
nice  for  either  goose,  ducks  or  pork.  If  for  goose  add  the  liver,  first 
simmered  a few  moments  and  then  very  finely  minced.  Or,  boil  in 
water  to  cover  four  apples,  peeled  and  cored,  four  onions,  sage  and 
thyme  leaves.  When  done,  pulp  through  a sieve,  removing  leaves ; 
then  add  enough  pulp  of  mealy  potatoes  to  cause  stuffing  to  be  so  dry  say 
not  to  stick  to  hand.  Season  with  pepper  and  salt.  For  a Fruit- Dress- 
ing^ stew  one  pound  prunes  as  in  recipe  for  stewed  prunes,  using  as  lit- 
tle water  as  possible,  and  add  to  them  same  quantity  of  tart  apple  sauce 
and  a few  raisins  if  liked,  and  let  stew  together  till  quite  dry,  adding: 
sugar  to  taste  ( some  prefer  twice  as  much  apple  sauce  as  prunes ) ; stuff 
as  above  or,  w})en  bread-dressing  is  used,  it  is  very  nice  to  garnish  with 
spoonfuls  of  this  around  the  goose ; or  omit  prunes  and  use  teacup 
raisins,  using  raisins  also  in  the  gravy  ; or  take  three  quarters  pound 
pulp  of  tart  apples,  which  have  been  previously  baked  or  steamed, 
add  two  ounces  bread-crumbs,  some  powderecl  sage,  a finely  chop- 
ped onion,  and  season  with  a little  cayenne  pepper.  After  goose  is 
stuffed,  sew  up  and  tie  in  shape  as  described  in  recipe  for  roast  tur- 
key. Place  in  oven  on  dripping  pan,  on  a trivet  or  pieces  of  hard 
wood,  with  a little  of  the  water  in  which  goose  was  parboiled  ; ])ut 
bits  of  butter  or  slices  of  fat  salt  pork  over  the  goose,  and  to  make 
extra  nice,  unless  very  fat,  add  a little  butter  to  the  drippings  each 
time  of  basting,  which  will  v^ant  to  be  every  ten  minutes,  adding 
more  of  the  parboiled  water  as  needed.  Where  the  onion  flavor  is 
an  objection,  simply  put  hot  water  in  the  roasting  pan.  When  al- 
most done  baste  with  melted  butter,  dredge  with  flour,  let  brown, 
then  a little  more  butter  till  nicely  frothed  and  browned.  Some 
claim  that  a specially  nice  way  to  roast  is  to  begin  by  basting  with 
a teacup  cider;  then,  when  it  begins  to  warm,  dredge  with  flour; 


358 


GAME. 


afterwards  baste  with  its  own  fat  and  gravy,  mixing  v/ith  the  cider. 
In  either  way,  when  browned,  place  in  pan  in  oven,  as  directed,  till 
gravy  is  made,  using  the  giblets  in  the  same  manner,  if  good, 
as  for  Roast  Turkey,  adding  also  the  parboiled  water  from  the  goose. 
Those  liking  onion  flavor  can  slice  onion  when  used  in  parboiling, 
putting  some  slices  inside  goose  and  some  in  kettle,  and  leave  all  in 
the  water  for  the  gravy.  Place  goose  on  hot  platter,  made  hot  by 
pouring  hot  w^ater  upon  it,  being  careful  to  pour  in  center  first ; gar- 
nish with  a border  of  baked,  cored,  tart  apples,  being  careful  not  to  have 
them  bursted.  Always  serve  apple  sauce  with  goose.  Y\^ild  Duck  can 
be  prepared  in  same  way.  Goose,  duck  and  all  game,  being  rather 
dry,  are  especially  nice  larded,  but  placing  pieces  of  salt  pork  on 
them  while  cooking  answers  the  same  purpose,  but  does  not  present 
the  handsome  appearance  when  served  as  does  a Larded  Goose. 

Smoked  Goose. — Split  the  goose  down  tbe  back,  rubbing  it  well 
with  quarter  ounce  saltpetre,  afterwards  salting  wdth  common  salt, 
and  rubbing  with  coarse  brown  sugar ; let  it  lie  in  pickle  for  about 
ten  days  if  it  be  summer,  but  fourteen  if  winter  ; rub  it  and  turn  it 
regularly  every  day,  roll  in  saw-dust,  and  smoke  it.  The  breast 
alone  is  nice  ])repared  as  above.  Any  wild  game-  can  be  prepared 
in  like  manner. 

Braised  Grouse. — Clean  thoroughly,  washing  out  the  inside  in 
soda  and  water,  and  then  rinsing  and  wiping.  Truss,  but  do  not 
stuff  the  birds  ; tie  them  in  shape.  Cover  the  bottom  of  a saucepan 
with  slices  of  fat  salt  pork ; lay  the  grouse  upon  these ; sprinkle 
minced  onion  and  parsley  over  them.,  with  pepper,  salt  and  a little 
sugar.  Cover  them  with  more  pork,  and  pour  in  a large  cup  of 
soup  stock,  or  other  broth.  Cover  very  closely  ; simmer  one  hour ; 
turn  the  birds  and  cook — always  covered — until  tender.  Dish  the 
grouse,  strain  the  gra\w,  thicken  with  browned  flour,  boil  up  and 
pour  into  gravy-boat.  Patridges  and  Wild.  IBgeons  may  also  be 
cooked  in  tliis  wav. 

Boast'  Grouse. — Clean  and  wash  the  birds,  lard  breast  and  legs 
run  a skewer  into  the  legs  and  through  the  tail,  and  tie  firmly  with 
twine.  Dredge  with  salt,  rub  the  breast  wdth  soft  butter  and  dredge 
thickly  with  flour.  Put  into  a quick  oven  and  cook  twenty  minutes 
if  wanted  very  rare  ; if  wished  better  done,  thirty  minutes.  Baste 
often.  Serve  on  toast  which  has  been  soaked  in  the  dripping-pan 
and  buttered,  or  on  bread  sauce  sprinkled  with  fried  bread-crumbs, 
and  garnish  with  parsley.  Or  clean,  truss,  and  stuff  the  birds  ; cover 
with  thin  slices  of  corned  ham,  binding  all  with  buttered  pack 
thread.  Roast  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  basting  Avith  butter  and 
Avater  three  times,  then  AAuth  the  dripping.  When  quite  done,  dish 
AAuth  the  ham  laid  about  the  body  of  the  bird.  Skim  the  graAw, 
thicken  AAuth  browned  flour,  and  season  AAuth  pepper  and  the  juice  of 


GAME. 


359 


a lemon.  Or  put  a tablespoon  butter  in  each  bird,  then  lay  each 
one,  covered  with  strips  of  bacon,  on  a slice  of  dry  toast  in  the  drip- 
ping-pan ; as  soon  as  they  begin  to  get  at  all  dry  moisten  them  well 
with  stock,  and  baste  and  turn  them  several  times.  Serve  on  a hot 
platter  garnished  with  parsley  or  cress,  and  the  toast  (which  will  be 
delicious)  cut  in  points. 

Grouse  Pie. — Line  the  bottom  of  a pie-dish  with  a pound  rump- 
steak  cut  into  neat  pieces,  and,  should  the  grouse  be  large,  cut  them 
into  joints  ; but  if  small,  they  may  be  laid  in  the  pie  whole ; season 
highly  with  salt,  cayenne,  and  black  pepper;  pour  in  a half  pint 
broth,  and  cover  with  a puff  paste ; brush  the  crust  over  with  the 
yolk  of  an  egg,  and  bake  about  an  hour.  If  the  grouse  is  cut  into 
joints,  the  backbones  and  trimmings  will  make  the  gravy,  by  stew- 
ing them  with  an  onion,  a bunch  of  herhs,  and  a blade  of  mace ; this 
should  be  poured  in  after  the  pie  is  baked 

Grouse  Salad. — Boil  eight  eggs  hard,  throw  them  into  cold 
water  and  shell,  cut  a thin  slice  off  the  bottom  so  they  will  stand  in 
dish,  cut  each  one  into  four  pieces,  lengthwise,  and  make  a very  thin 
fiat  border  of  butter,  about  one  inch  from  the  edge  of  the  dish  the 
salad  is  to  be  served  on ; place  the  pieces  of  egg  upright,  close  to 
each  other,  the  yolk  outside,  or  the  yolk  and  white  alternately lay 
in  the  center  a fresh  green  salad  of  whatever  is  in  season,  and,  hav- 
ing previously  roasted  the  grouse  rather  underdone,  cut  it  into 
eight  or  ten  pieces,  and  prepare  the  sauce  as  follow^s : Put  one 
tablespoon  chopped  shallot  or  onion  into  a bowl  with  two  table- 
spoons sugar,  the  yolk  of  an  egg,  a teaspoon  minced  parsley,  tea- 
spoon and  half  salt,  and  stir  in  gradually  four  tablespoons  Chili 
vinegar  and  twelve  of  oil ; when  all  ingredients  are  well  mixed  put  the 
sauce  on  ice  or  in  a cool  place.  When  ready  to  serve,  whip  four 
tablespoons  cream  rather  thick,  which  lightly  mix  with  it;  then  lay 
inferior  parts  of  grouse  on  the  salad,  put  sauce  over  so  as  to  cover 
each  piece,  then  add  more  salad  and  the  remainder  of  the  grouse, 
pour  the  rest  of  the  sauce  over,  and  serve.  The  eggs  may  he  orna- 
mented with  a little  dot  of  radishes  or  beet-root  on  the  point.  An- 
chovy and  gherkin,  cut  into  small  diamonds  may  be  placed  be- 
tween; or  cut  gherkins  in  slices,  and  use  as  a border.  The  remains 
of  Cold  PheasGMt  or  Partridge  may  be  used  in  same  manner,  and 
will  make  a very  delicate  dish. 

Grouse  Sandiuiches. — Chop  cold  grouse  very  fine,  and  then 
pound  in  a mortar,  or  rub  through  a sieve  with  a potato-masher; 
mix  the  pounded  meat  with  an  equal  quantity  currant  jelly,  and 
put  it  between  thin  slices  of  bread  without  crust.  Or  cut  the  meat 
in  small  thin  slices,  and  put  it  between  leaves  of  lettuce  laid  on  thin 
slices  of  buttered  bread  ; the  lettuce  leaves  may  be  dipped  in  plain 
salad-dressing,  made  by  mixing  three  tablespoons  salad  oil  with  one 


- GAME. 


^>60 


of  vinegar,  and  a seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper,  or  sauce  of  currant 
jelly  and  mustard  may  be  used. 

Jugged  Rare. — Skin,  wipe  with  a towel  dipped  in  boiling  water, 
remove  the  loose  hairs,  dry  thoroughly  and  cut  in  pieces,  strew 
with  pepper  and  salt,  fry  brown,  season  with  two.  anchovies,  a sprig 
of  thyme,  a little  chopped  parsley,  nutmeg,  mace,  cloves,  and  grated 
lemon  peel.  Put  a layer  of  the  pieces  with  the  seasoning  into  a 
wide-mouthed  jug  or  jar,  then  a layer  of  bacon  sliced  very  thin,  and 
so  on  till  all  is  used ; add  a scant  half  pint  of  water,  cover  the  jug 
close  and  put  in  cold  water,  let  boil  three  or  four  hours,  according 
to  the  age  of  the  hare ; take  the  jug  out  of  kettle,  pick'  out  the  un- 
melted bacon  and  make  a gravy  of  a little  butter  and  flour  with  a 
little  catsup.  A teaspoon  of  lemon  peel  will  heighten  the  flavor. 

Roast  Hare. — Have  the  hare  skinned  and  well  cleaned,  stuff*  as 
fowl,  with  a force-meat  of  bread-crumbs,  chopped  fat  pork,  a little 
sweet  majoram,  onion,  pepper  and  salt,  just  moistened  with  hot 
water.  Sew  up  with  fine  cotton,  tie  legs  closely  to  the  bodydn  a 
kneeling  position,  lay  in  dripping-pan,  back  uppermost,  pour  two 
cups  boiling  water  over  it,  cover  with  another  pan  and  bake,  closely 
covered — except  when  basting  with  butter  and  water — for  three  quar- 
ters* of  an  hour.  Uncover,  baste  freely  with  the  gravy  until  nicely 
browned;  dredge  with  flour  and  baste  with  butter  until  a fine 
froth  appears  on  the  surface.  Take  up  hare,  put  in  another  pan  on 
a trivet  or  rack  and  pla-ce  in  oven  while  gravy  is  being  made.  Skim 
that  left  in  the  pan,  add  water  if  necessary,  season,  thicken  with 
browned  flour,  stir  in  tablespoon  currant  jelly  and  some  chopped 
parsley,  boil  up,  pour  a few  spoonfuls  of  it  over  the  hare,  and  serve 
the  rest  in  a gravy-boat.  Clip  the  threads  and  send  the  hare  in  with 
currant  jelly  around  it,  as  this  is  an  indispensable  accompaniment. 
Some  baste  well  with  milk  for  a short  time,' and  afterwards  with  but- 
ter, basting  often  so  as  to  preserve  the  meat  on  the  back  juicy  and 
nutritive.  When  it  is  almost  roasted  enough,  flour  the  hare,  and 
baste  well  with  butter.  When  nicely  frothed,  dish,  remove  the  twine, 
and  send  to  table  with  a little  gravy  in  dish,  and  a gravy-boat  of  same. 
For  economy,  good  beef  dripping  may  be  substituted  for  milk  and 
butter  in  basting,  which  must  be  continued  almost  without  inter- 
mission. If  liver  is  good,  it  may  be  parboiled,  minced,  and  mixed 
with  the  stuffing ; but  it  should  not  be  used  unless  quite  fresh.  The 
Jack  Rabbit  of  our  western  prairies  is  said  to  be  closely  akin  to  the 
much  prized  English  hare  and  equally  as  fine  eating.  Some  broil 
slightly  over  the  coals,  to  give  firmness  to  the  flesh,  then  cover  with 
slices  of  fat  pork  from  the  neck  to  the  legs,  roast  it  for  an  hour, 
and  serve  with  sharp  sauce  to  which  has  been  added  the  chopped 
liver. 

Landrails — After  birds  have  been  drawn  they  should  be  wiped 
very  clean  with  a damp  cloth.  They  must  be  continuously  basted 


GAME. 


361 


with  butter,  and  will  take  about  fifteen  minutes  to  cook.  Put  them 
on  a layer  of  fried  bread-crumbs  on  an  exceedingly  hot  dish.  Send 
to  table  with  a tureen  of  bread  sauce,  and  one  of  good  gravy.  This 
is  a nice  side  dish. 

Hashed  Partridge. — Take  three  partridges  and  after  they  are 
plucked  and  drawn,  roast  rather  underdone,  covering  with  paper, 
as  they  should  not  be  browned  ; cut  into  joints,  take  off  the  skin 
from  the  wings,  legs  and  breasts ; put  these  into  a stewpan,  cover 
and  set  by  until  grav}"  is  ready.  Cut  a slice  of  ham  into  small 
pieces,  and  put  into  a stewpan  with  a sliced  carrot,  three  or  four 
mushrooms,  three  sliced  shallots,  a hunch  of  savory  herbs,  two 
cloves,  and  six  whole  peppers,  and  fry  lightly  in  a little  butter,  pour 
in  three-fourths  pint  stock,  add  the  hones  and  trimmings  from  the 
partridges,  and  simmer  fifteen  minutes.  Strain  the  gravy,  let  cool, 
and  skim  off  every  particle  of  fat ; put  it  to  the  legs,  wings,  and 
breasts ; let  all  gradually  warm  through  on  back  of  stove,  and 
when  on  the  point  of  boiling,  serve,  garnishing  the  dish  with  crom 
tons.  The  remains  of  roast  partridge  do  very  well  dressed  in  this 
way,  although  not  so  good  as  when  the  birds  are  only  half  roasted, 
This  recipe  is  equally  good  for  Pheasants.  Prairie  Chickens.,  etc.^ 
but  care  must  be  taken  always  to  skin  the  joints. 

Potted  Partridge. — Pluck  and  draw  the  partridges  and  wipe 
inside  with  a damp  cloth.  Pound  well  some  mace,  allspice,  white 
pepper  and  salt,  mix  together  and  rub  every  part  of  the  birds  with 
this.  Pack  as  closely  as  possible  in  a baking-pan,  with  plenty  of 
butter  over,  and  cover  with  a coarse  flour-and-water  crust.  Tie  a 
paper  over  this,  and  hake  rather  more  than  one  and  a half  hours  ; 
let  the  birds  get  cold,  then  cut  into  pieces  for  keeping,  pack  closely 
in  large  potting-pot,  and  cover  with  clarified  butter.  This  should  be 
kept  in  a cool  dry  place.*  The  butter  used  for  potting  game  will 
answer  for  hasting,  or  for  paste  for  meat-pies. 

Roast  Partridge. — Clean  and  wash  out  the  inside  with  soda 
water,  afterwards  rinsing  in  fresh  water.  Unjoint  the  legs  at  the 
first  joint,  truss  and  cover  breast  with  a thin  slice  of  fat  salt  pork, 
tying  the  pork  on  with  twine.  Place  the  partridge  on  its  hack  in 
the  baking-pan  with  a piece  of  butter  the  size  of  a walnut  on  it ; set 
it  in  a quick  oven,  baste  often  with  butter  and  serve  on  a dish  sur- 
rounded by  bread-crumbs  fried  brown  and  arranged  in  small  heaps ; 
pour  over  the  bird  a gravy  made  from  the  drippings  in  pan  thickened 
with  browned  flour  and  flavored  with  lemon  juice.  Or  spread  thin 
slices  of  ham  or  bacon  over  the  entire  bird  and  tie  on  with  twine, 
Jemoving  just  in  time  to  brown  nicely. 

Stewed  Partridges. — Prepare  two  young  partridges  as  for  roast- 
ing, lard  the  breasts  with  three  or  four  strips  fat  bacon,  cutting  off 
the  ends,  and  place  the  birds  in  a stew  pan,  with  a cabbage  cut  in. 


362 


GAME. 


quarters  and  heart  removed,  over  them ; put  in  also  a carrot,  an 
onion  stuck  with  a clove,  hunch  sweet  herbs,  quarter  teaspoon  pep- 
per, quarter  pound  Bologna  sausage  (uncooked)  and  half  pound 
rather  lean  bacon,  slightly  freshened.  Put  in  broth  or  stock  to 
cover  and  a half  cup  good  drippings.  Cover  closely,  first  placing  a 
cloth  over  stewpan,  then  fitting  in  the  cover  and  simmer  an  hour 
and  a half.  Take  out  the  meat  and  place  in  oven  to  keep  hot,  drain 
the  cabbage  and  stir  in  a pan  over  fire  with  seasoning  of  salt  and 
pepper  until  free  from  moisture,  then  place  a layer  on  a dish,  take 
out  and  undo  the  birds  and  lay  them  around  the  outer  edge  and 
put  more  cabbage  in  center.  Cut  the  sausage  and  bacon  in  slices 
and  serve  as  a garnish  with  the  sliced  carrot.  Make  a brown  gravy 
in  the  stewpan  and  send  to  table  with  it. 

Partridge  Pie. — Line  a deep  pie  dish  with  veal  cutlets  and  over 
them  place  a slice  of  ham  and  seasoning  of  pepper  and  salt.  Pluck, 
draw  and  wipe  the  partridges,  cut  off  legs  at  first  joint  and  season 
inside  with  salt,  pepper,  minced  parsley  and  a small  piece  butter, 
place  in  dish  and  pour  in  half  pint  any  stock,  or  water  and  table- 
spoon butter  will  do  ; line  edge  with  puff-paste  and  cover  with  same, 
bake  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  brush  over  with  the  Roll  Glaze  or 
simply  a yolk  of  egg  and  bake  fifteen  minutes  longer.  If  partridges 
are  large,  split  in  two. 

Partridges  leitli  Mushrooms. — Prepare  brace  of  young  part- 
ridges, dredge  a little  flour  over  and  brown  them  equally  and  lightly 
in  hot  butter.  Put  them  side  by  side  into  a stewpan,  pour  in  as 
much  rich  brown  gravy,  seasoned  with  salt  and  cayenne,  as  will 
half  cover  them,  and  stew  very  gently  until  half  done.  Turn  them 
over,  put  in  with  them  two  dozen  small  mushrooms,  and  simmer 
again  until  the  birds  are  done  enough.  Serve  on  a hot  dish,  wdth 
the  sauce  poured  over  them.  * 

Rissoles  of  Partridge. — Take  three  roast  partridges,  one  half 
cup  mushrooms,  one  cup  each  butter,  flour,  cream,  and  broth  or 
water,  a slight  grating  of  nutmeg,  a little  lemon  juice,  pepper  and 
salt.  Cut  meat  into  the  smallest  dice,  mince  the  mushrooms  and 
add,  sprinkle  with  a teaspoon  of  mixed  pepper  and  salt,  grate  a lit- 
tle nutmeg  and  squeeze  a lemon  over.  Make  a cream  sauce  by  stir- 
ring the  butter  and  flour  together  in  a saucepan  and  adding  the 
broth  and  cream  when  it  begins  to  bubble,  and  when  the  sauce  is 
ready  moisten  the  meat  with  it,  stir  up  well  and  set  it  away  to  be- 
come cold.  Then  make  out  in  rolls,  about  the  size  of  a finger,  roll 
in  flour,  then  in  egg,  then  in  cracker  crumbs  and  fry  in-  hot  lard. 
Pile  in  the  dish  and  garnish  with  fried  parsley. 

Broiled  Pheasant. — Scald  and  skin,  cut  the  breast  in  two  and 
the  rest  in  joints,  being  careful  to  remove  all  shot ; put  in  hot  water  all 
except  the  breast  (which  will  be  tender  enough  without  parboiling) 


GAME. 


363 


and  boil  until  it  can  be  pierced  with  fork ; take  out,  rub  over  salt 
and  butter,  and  broil  with  breast  over  brisk  fire ; place  a lump  of 
butter  on  each  piece,  season  with  pepper  and  set 
all  in  the  oven  for  a few  minutes.  For  breakfast, 
serve  on  fried  mush,  and  for  dinner,  on  toast  with 
a bit  of  currant  jelly  over  each  piece,  or  with  Sara- 
toga potatoes  in  center.  Or  it  may  be  served 
with  toast  cut  in  pieces  about  two  inches  square,  over  which  pour 
gravy  made  by  thickening  the  liquor  in  which  the  birds  were  boiled 
with  a little  butter  and  flour  rubbed  together  and  stirred  in  while 
boiling.  This  is  more  appetizing  but  not  as  handsome  a method  of 
serving  as  above.  Garnish  with  water-cresses,  pepper-grass  or  other 
greens.  Or  put  pieces  into  a frying-pan  with  a little  lard,  and  when 
browned  on  both  sides,  and  about  half  done,  take  out  and  drain ; 
brush  the  pieces  over  with  egg,  and  sprinkle  with  bread-crumbs  with 
which  has  been  mixed  a good  seasoning  of  cayenne  and  salt.  Broil 
over  moderate  fire  about  ten  minutes,  or  rather  longer,  and  serve 
with  niushroom  sauce,  sauce  piquant,  or  brown  gravy  in  which  a 
few  game-bones  and  trimmings  have  been  stewed.  Prairie  CMch 
ens^  Partridges  and  Squirrels  may  be  prepared  same  way. 


Pheasant  with  Potatoes. 


Roast  Pheasant. — The  bird  should  be  carefully  plucked,  drawn 
and  singed,  then  stuff  with  a dressing  made  as  follows  : Take  two 
snipes  and  draw  them,  putting  the  bodies  on  one  plate,  and  the  liv- 
ers, etc.,  on  another.  Take  off  the  flesh  and  mince  it  finely  with  a 
little  beef,  lard,  a few  truffles,  pepper  and  salt 
to  taste,  and  stuff  the  pheasant  carefully  with 
this.  Cut  a slice  of  bread,  larger  than  the 
bird,  and  cover  it  with  the  liver,  etc.,  a 
few  truffles,  with  an  anchovy  and  a little  fresh 
butter  added,  if  liked.  Put  the  bread  thus  prepared,  into  the  drip- 
ping-pan, and  when  the  bird  is  roasted  place  it  on  the  preparation, 
and  surround  with  Florida  oranges.  Roast  Prairie  Chickens  and 
Partridges  are  equally  delicious. 


Roast  Pheasant. 


Pheasant  Cutlets. — Procure  three  young  pheasants  that  have 
been  hung  for  a few  days  ; pluck,  draw,  and  wipe  them  inside  ; cut 
into  joints  ; remove  the  bones  from  the  best  of  these  ; put  the  back- 
bones, trimmings,  etc.,  into  a stewpan,  with  a little  stock,  herbs, 
vegetables  and  seasoning  to  make  the  gravy.  Flatten  and  trim  the 
cutlets  to  a good  shape,  egg  and  bread-crumb  them,  broil  over  a clear 
fire,  pile  high  in  a dish,  and  pour  under  them  the  gravy  made  from 
the  bones,  which  should  be  strained,  flavored  and  thickened.  One  of 
the  small  bones  should  be  stuck  on  the  point  of  each  cutlet. 


Roast  Pigeons. — Only  young  and  tender  pigeons  should  be 
roasted.  Dress  carefully,  and  after  washing  clean,  wipe  dry  and  put 
into  each  bird  a small  piece  of  butter  dipped  in  cayenne.  Or  fill 


364 


GAME. 


them  with  a stuffing  of  bread-crumbs,  a tablespoon  butter,  a little 
salt  and  nutmeg,  and  three  oysters  to  each  bird  (some prefer  chop- 
ped apple).  Truss  the  wings  over  the  back  and  roast  at  least  thirty 
minutes  in  a quick  oven,  keeping  constantly  basted  with  butter. 
Dish  with  young  water-cresses,  or  a garnish  of  parsley  and  serve 
with  browned  gravy.  Or  they  may  be  roasted  with  a slice  of  bacon 
over  the  breasts. 

Stewed  Pigeons. — Put  the  pigeons  in  a large  stewpan  with  a cup 
water  to  keep  from  burning  and  a tablespoon  butter  for  each  bird. 
Cover,  and  simmer  slowly  until  a nice  dark  brown.  Turn  occas- 
sionally  and  see  that  each  is  well  placed  in  the  liquor.  When  about 
half  done  take  out  and  set  in  oven  or  over  hot  water  to  keep  hot 
while  a gravy  is  made.  Chop  the  giblets  very  fine,  with  a little 
onion  and  parsley.  Put  into  the  gravy,  pepper  and  salt,  boil  up 
and  thicken  with  browned  flour.  Put  the  pigeons  back  in  the  pan, 
cover  tightly  and  cook  slowly  until  tender.  If  there  is  not  enough 
liquor  for  the  gravy,  add  boiling  water  before  putting  in  the  giblets. 
Or  put  slices  of  bacon  in  bottom  of  stewpan ; lay  in  the  pigeons, 
side  by  side,  carefully  tied  in  shape,  all  their  breasts 
uppermost;  add  a sliced  carrot,  an  onion  with  a 
clove  stuck  in,  a teaspoon  sugar,  and  chopped 
parsley,  and  pour  over  enough  stock  or  boiling  ngeous. 

water  to  cover  them.  Put  thin  slices  of  bacon  over  the  pigeons  ; 
cover  them  as  closely  as  possible,  adding  boiling  water  or  stock  when 
necessary,  and  simmer  until  very  tender.  Serve  each  pigeon  on  a 
thin  piece  of  buttered  toast,  and  for  an  extra  dish  with  a border  of 
spinach,  or  make  little  nets  of  spinach  on  pieces  of  toast,  putting  a 
pigeon  into  each  nest.  For  Pigeons  a la  Mode^  make  a stuffing  of 
bits  of  salt  pork,  diy  bread-crumbs,  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper, 
thyme,  and  one  egg.  Stufit  each  bird,  lay  in  a stewpan,  cover 
with  water,  and  add  a little  thyme  and  the  juice  of  a lemon.  Cook 
until  tender  and  serve  v/ith  a gravy  made  as  above. 

Pigeon  Pie. — Make  either  a fine  puff  paste  or  a rich  baking 
powder  crust,  as  liked ; lay  a border  of  it  around  a large  dish,  and 
cover  the  bottom  with  a veal  cutlet,  or  a very  tender  steak  free  from 
fat  and  bone ; season  with  salt,  cayenne  pepper  and  mace.  Prepare 
as  many  pigeons  as  can  be  put  in  one  layer  in  the  dish ; put  in  each 
pigeon  a small  lump  of  butter,  and  season  with  pepper  and  salt ; lay 
them  in  the  dish  breast  downwards,  and  cut  in  slices  a half  dozen 
hard-boiled  eggs,  and  put  with  them ; put  in  more  butter,  some  veal 
broth  and  cover  the  whole  with  crust.  Bake  slowly  an  hour  and  a 
half.  The  pigeons  may  first  be  fried  a light  brown  in  butter.  Or 
split  the  birds  and  cut  in  quarters  and  put  in  first  a layer  of  steak, 
then  one  of  pigeons  and  then  one  of  sausage  meat  highlj^  seasoned 
with  salt,  pepper  and  powdered  allspice,  then  another  layer  of  each 
until  all  are  used.  Pour  in  just  enough  hot  water  to  moisten  and 


GAME. 


365 


cover  the  pie  with  crust,  wetting  the  edges  to  make  them  adhere ; 
cut  little  slits  in  the  crust  to  permit  the  steam  to  escape ; brush  the 
crus’t  with  beaten  egg  and  bake  in  moderate  oven  two  hours.  For 
another  excellent  pie  take  about  eight  pigeons  or  other  small  birds, 
and  make  a stuffing  of  bread  and  onions.  Stuff  each  bird,  then  put 
into  a stewpan  about  a tablespoon  lard,  and  a dessert-spoon  flour 
and  brown  nicely ; cut  a small  onion  very  fine  and  fry  it,  adding 
the  birds  which  should  fry  awhile  before  putting  a pint  of  water 
over  them,  and  let  them  boil  until  done.  Take  them  out ; add  about 
two  dozen  oysters,  with  a little  of  the  oyster-water,  to  gravy,  a table- 
spoon butter,  salt,  black  pepper,  allspice,  and  nutmeg ; line  a bak- 
ing-dish with  pastry,  put  the  birds  in  with  the  gravy,  cover  with  the 
pastry  and  bake. 

Pot-Roast  of  Prairie  Chickens. — Skin,  draw,  wash,  wipe  dry, 
tie  in  shape  without  stuffing,  and  parboil  in  water  to  cover ; cook  till 
tender,  adding  more  water  if  necessary.  Take  out  chicken  and  pour 
broth  in  crock  to  keep  for  gravy.  Put  two  tablespoons  butter  in  ket- 
tle, let  brown,  put  in  chicken  and  keep  turning  it  till  nearly  browned, 
about  five  or  ten  minutes,  then  add  pint  broth  in  which  it  was  par- 
boiled, put  on  cover  and  let  cook  till  almost  dry,  then  add  more 
broth,  season  with  salt  and  pepper  and  keep  cooking  and  adding 
broth  till  chicken  is  done,  and  there  is  a pint  of  rich  brown  gravy 
left  in  kettle.  Take  out  chicken,  put  in  pan  in  oven  to  keep  hot, 
and  make  a Sour  Cream  Gravy  by  adding  one  pint  sour  cream,  and 
one  tablespoon  baking  molasses.  Thicken  with  a tablespoon  flour 
stirred  smooth  in  a little  cream,  either  sweet  or  sour,  let  boil  five 
minutes  and  then  serve  chicken  on  hot  platter,  garnished,  if  liked, 
with  parsley,  and  gravy  in  gravy  boat.  Pheasants^  Quail.)  Duck^ 
Spring  Chickens  and  any  small  game  are  nice  cooked  as  above,  and 
the  gravy  can  be  made  in  same  way  where  game  is  roasted  in  oven. 

Roast  Praiule  Chickens. — Skin  or  pluck  them,  as  preferred,  cut 
off  head  and  feet,  and  draw  without  breaking  intestines,  wash,  and 
for  each  bird  put  a tablespoon  finely  chopped  onion  in  a frying-pan 
over  the  fire  with  tvv^o  heaping  tablespoons  finely-chopped  salt  pork 
or  butter ; .as  soon  as  the  onion  is  brown  add  a heaping  cup  soft 
bread-crumbs,  a level  teaspoon  each  salt  and  any  powdered  sweet 
herb  except  sage,  a saltspoon  pepper,  and  a tablespoon  butter ; use 
this  as  soon  as  hot  for  stuffing  the  birds,  and  either  put  them 
before  a good  fire  to  roast,  or  in  a dripping-pan  set  in  a hot  oven ; 
cook  about  half  an  hour,  basting  occasionally  with  drippings  from 
them ; when  done  keep  hot  while  a gravy  is  made  as  follows  : Place 
the  dripping-pan  over  fire ; for  each  bird  stir  in  a level  tablespoon 
flour  until  it  is  brown,  and  then  gradually  stir  in  a scant  pint  boil- 
ing water ; season  the  gravy  palatably  with  salt  and  pepper,  let  boil 
two  or  three  minutes,  and  serve  with  the  birds.  Garnish  with  sprigs 
of  parsley  alternated  with  currant  jelly.  A delicious  sauce  can  be 


366 


GAME. 


made  by  mixing  half  a glass  currant  jelly  for  each  bird  with  the 
drippings  in  the  pan,  and  stirring  the  sauce  over  the  fire  until  it 
boils  to  the  proper  consistency;  another  excellent  cold  sauce  is 
made  by  mixing  a tablespoon  dry  mustard  thoroughly  with  a glass 
of  currant  jelly.  Plain  boiled  potatoes,  or  potatoes  re-warmed,  with 
butter,  salt  and  pepper,  may  be  served  with  the  birds.  Roast  Pheas- 
ant and  Partridge  the  same  way. 

Steamed  Prairie  Chicken. —W thoroughly  but  quickly, 
using  some  soda  in  the  water,  rinse  and  dry,  fill  with  dressing,  sew 
up  with  cotton  thread,  and  tie  down  the  legs  and  wings  ; place  in  a 
steamer  over  hot  water  till  done,  remove  to  a dripping-pan,  cover 
with  butter,  sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper,  dredge  with  flour,  place 
in  the  oven  and  baste  with  the  melted  butter  until  a nice  brown ; 
serve  with  either  apple  sauce,  cranberries,  or  currant  jelly. 

Stewed  Prairie  Chicken. — Cut  in  joints,  put  over  the  fire  in  a 
saucepan  with  butter  and  brown  quickly  ; for  each  bird  add  half  a 
glass  currant  jelly,  level  teaspoon  salt,  quarter  saltspoon  pepper  and 
sufficient  boiling  water  to  cover ; cook  slowly  until  tender,  adding  a 
little  more  water  if  necessary,  and  serve  them  on  toast,  with  the 
gravy  from  the  pan  poured  over.  Or,  put  about  tablespoon  butter, 
and  two  of  salt  pork,  cut  into  bits,  in  a saucepan,  and  set  on 
quick  fire ; when  butter  is  melted  put  the  bird  in,  and  brown  it  all 
round ; then  add  four  small  onions,  half  a carrot  in  slices,  salt  and 
pepper,  stir  till  onions  and  carrots  are  partly  fried ; then  add  a pint 
of  good  broth  and  a bunch  of  sweet  herbs ; boil  gently  till  done. 
Dish  the  bird,  strain  the  gravy  over  it,  and  serve  hot. 

Salmi  of  Prairie  Chickens. — This  is  an  excellent  way  of  serv- 
ing the  remains  of  roasted  game  ; but  when  a choice  dish  is  desired, 
the  birds  must  be  scarcely  more  than  half  roasted.  In  either  case 
cut  up  neatly,  and  strip  every  particle  of  fat  and  skin  from  the  legs, 
wings,  and  breast ; bruise  the  bodies  well,  and  put  them  with  the 
skin  and  other  trimmings  into  a stewpan ; add  two  or  three  sliced 
shallots  or  onions,  small  blade  of  mace,  and  a few  pepper-corns ; 
pour  in  a pint  or  more  of  good  veal  gravy  or  strong  broth,  and  boil 
briskly  until  reduced  nearly  half;  strain  the  gravy,  pressing  the 
bones  well  to  obtain  all  the  flavor,  skim  off  the  fat,  add  a little  cay- 
enne and  lemon  juice  and  heat  the  birds  very  gradually  in  it  with- 
out allowing  it  to  boil  ; place  bits  of  fried  bread  round  a dish, 
arrange  the  birds  in  the  center,  give  the  sauce  a boil,  and  pour  it 
over  them.  Partridges  and  other  wild-fowl  can  be  prepared  in 
same  way. 

Fried  Quail. — Split  open  on  the  back  and  boil  until  tender ; 
have  an  equal  quantity  butter  and  lard  hot  in  frying-pan,  put  in  the 
birds  and  fry  a nice  light  brown.  Lay  the  quail  on  slices  oi 


GAME. 


367 


toasted  bread  and  pour  over  them  a nice  gravy  made  in  pan. 
Pheasants  raay  be  cooked  in  same  way,  served  on  platter  without 
toast. 

Roast  Quail. — Pluck  and  dress  like  chickens,  wipe  clean,  and 
rub  both  inside  and  out  with  salt  and  pepper ; stuff  with  any  good 
dressing,  and  sew  up  with  fine  thread ; spread  with  butter  and  place 
in  an  oven  with  a good  steady  heat,  turning  and  basting  often  with 
hot  water  seasoned  with  butter,  salt  and  pepper;  bake  three-quar- 
ters of  an  hour.  When  about  half  done  add  a little  hot  water  to  the 
pan,  and  it  is  well  to  place  a dripping-pan  over  them  to  prevent 
browning  too  much.  Add  to  the  gravy,  flour  and  butter  rubbed  to- 
gether, and  water  if  needed.  Or,  when  cleaned,  cover  the  birds  with 
thin  slices  of  ham  or  bacon  and  then  wrap  in  grape  leaves  or  tie  in 
buttered  paper,  place  in  pan  with  piece  of  butter  size  of  hazelnut 
and  baste  well,  adding  very  little  water.  While  the  quail  are  baking 
cut  as  many  square  pieces  of  bread  as  there  are  birds,  fry  in  hot 
lard,  put  on  dish,  and  when  done,  la}^  the  birds  on  them,  removing 
the  twine  which  holds  the  legs,  and  the  paper.  Some  prefer  to  re- 
move the  papers  to  brown  the  birds  before  taking  up.  Turn  the 
gravy,  thickened  with  the  quail  livers  pounded  to  a paste,  over  the 
birds ; decorate  the  dish  with  water-cr(iss  sprinkled  with  vinegar  or 
lemon  juice.  Or  send  to  table  with  a plate  of  fried  bread-crumbs 
and  bread  sauce  in  a tureen.  In  serving  put  a quail  on  each  plate, 
pour  over  a tablespoon  of  the  sauce,  and  on  this  place  a tablespoon 
crumbs,  or  the  sauce-boat  and  plate  of  crumbs  may  be  passed  separ- 
ately. To  make  the  sauce,  roll  a pint  dry  bread-crumbs,  and  pass 
half  of  them  through  a sieve.  Put  a small  onion  into  a pint  milk, 
and  when  it  boils  remove  the  onion,  and  thicken  the  milk  with  the 
half  pint  sifted  crumbs  ; take  it  from  the  fire,  and  stir  in  a heaping 
teaspoon  butter,  a grating  of  nutmeg,  pepper  and  salt.  To  prepare 
the  crumbs,  put  a little  butter  into  a saucepan,  and  when  hot  throw 
in  the  half  pint  of  coarser  crumbs  which  remained  in  the  sieve  ; stir 
over  the  fire  until  they  assume  a light  brown  color,  taking  care  that 
they  do  not  burn,  and  add  a small  pinch  cayenne  pepper. 

Steamed  Quail. — Clean  the  birds  carefulljq  using  a little  soda 
in  the  water  in  which  they  are  washed ; rinse,  wipe  dry,  and  fill 
with  dressing,  sewing  up  nicely,  and  binding  down  the  legs  and 
wings  with  cords.  Put  in  a steamer  over  hot  water,  and  let  cook 
until  just  done.  Then  place  in  a pan  with  a little  butter ; set  them 
in  the  oven  and  baste  frequently  with  melted  butter  until  a nice 
brown.  They  ought  to  brown  nicely  in  about  fifteen  minutes.  Serve 
on  a platter,  with  sprigs  of  parsley  alternating  with  currant  jelly. 

Quail  Fricassee. — Prepare  six  quail  as  for  roasting.  Grate  the 
crumb  of  a small  stale  loaf  of  bread,  scrape  one  pound  fat  bacon, 
chop  thyme,  parsley,  an  onion  and  a lemon  peel  fine,  and  season 


368 


GAME. 


with  salt  and  pepper ; mix  with  two  eggs ; put  this  forcemeat  into 
the  quail,  lard  the  breasts  and  fry  brown ; place  them  in  a stewpan 
with  some  beef  stock  and  stew  three-quarters  of  an  hour  ; thicken 
with  a piece  of  butter  rolled  in  flour.  Serve  with  forcemeat  balls 
around  the  dish  and  strain  the  gravy  over  the  birds.  Pigeon  Fricas- 
see is  prepared  as  above. 

(^uail  on  Toast — Dry  pick,  singe  with  paper,  cut  oif  heads,  and 
disjoint  legs  at  first  joint,  draw,  split  down  the  back,  and  break 
down  breast  and  backbone  so  they  will  lie  flat ; soak  in  salt  and 
water  for  five  or  ten  minutes,  drain  and  dry  with  a cloth,  lard  with 
bacon  or  butter,  and  rub  salt  over  them,  place  on  broiler  and  turn 
often,  dipping  two  or  three  times  into  melted  butter;  broil  about 
twenty  minutes.  Have  ready  as  many  slices  of  buttered  toast  as 
there  are  birds,  and  serve  a bird,  breast  upward,  on  each  slice  with 
currant  jelly.  Or  cook  them,  prepared  as  above,  in  a covered  pan 
in  hot  oven,  with  a very  little  water,  until  nearly  done.  Then  fry  in 
frying-pan  with  hot  butter  to  a nice  brown,  and  serve  on  buttered 
toast.  Make  a sauce  of  the  gravy  in  the  pan,  thicken  lightly  with 
browned  flour  and  pour  over  each  quail.  Plover  and  Reed  Birds 
may  be  broiled  in  same  way.  Pigeons  should  be  first  parboiled  and 
then  broiled  and  served  same. 

Rabbits. — They  are  in  best  condition  in  mid-winter  and  are 
prepared  for  cooking  by  first  skinning  by  cutting  a slit  under  the 
throat;  as  it  is  pulled  off,  turn  skin  over  so  as  to  enclose  the  hair 
that  it  may  not  touch  the  skin  ; or  cut  skin  of  legs  around  first  joints  ; 
loosen  skin  oft  hind  legs  all  around,  and  cut  it  inside  thighs  as  far 
as  tail,  then  turn  the  skin  back  until  the  hindlegs  are  free  from  it,  and 
hang  up  the  carcass  by  them  ; next  pull  the  skin  downward  toward 
the  head,  slipping  out  the  fore  legs  when  they  are  reached ; after 
cutting  off  feet,  either  cut  oft'  head  at  neck  or  skin  it,  and  cut  off 
end  of  nose  with  skin,  then  draw,  wash,  wipe  dry,  and  in  cooking 
them  always  lard,  or  lay  or  tie  pieces  of  salt  pork  or  bacon  over 
them  as  they  are  dry  meated. 

Boiled  Rabbit—^Wri^  wash  well  in  cold  water,  and  let  soak  for 
about  fifteen  minutes  in  warm  water,  to  draw  out  the  blood.  Bring 
the  head  round  to  the  side,  and  fasten  it  there  by  means  of  a skewer 
run  through  that  and  the  body.  Put  the  rabbit  in  sufticient  hot 
water  to  cover,  let  boil  very  gently  until  tender,  which  will  be  from 
half  an  hour  to  an  hour,  according  to  its  size  and  age.  Dish  and 
smother  it  either  with  onions,  mushroom,  or  liver  sauce,  or  parsley 
and  butter ; the  former  is,  however,  generally  preferred  to  any  of 
the  last  named  sauces.  When  liver  sauce  is  preferred,  the  liver 
should  be  boiled  for  a few  minutes,  and  minced  very  finely,  or  rubbed 
through  a sieve  before  it  is  added  to  the  sauce. 


GAME, 


369 


Curried  Rahhit — Have  the  rabbit  carefully  drawn,  skinned 
and  washed ; cut  into  joints  and  put  in  stewpan  with  two  tablespoons 
butter  or  drippings  and  three  sliced  onions  ; let  brown, .but  not  burn  ; 
pour  in  one  pint  boiling  stock ; mix  one  tablespoon  each  curry  and 
flour  smoothly  in  a little  water,  and  put  in  pan  with  pepper  and  salt 
and  one  teaspoon  mushroom  powder ; some  add  also  a few  cloves ; 
simmer  half  an  hour  or  more;  squeeze  in  juice  of  half  a lemon,  a 
little  parsley,  and  serve  in  the  center  of  a platter  with  a half  pound 
rice,  boiled  dry,  piled  round  it.  Water  may  be  used  instead  of  stock, 
and  a little  sour  apple  and  grated  cocoa-nut  stewed  Avith  the  curry  if 
liked. 

Fricasseed  Rahhit. — Skin  and  cut  in  pieces.  Lay  in  cold  water 
a feAV  minutes,  drain  and  put  in  saucepan  with  pepper  and  a quarter 
of  a pound  of  pickled  pork,  cut  in  strips.  Cover  with  Avater,  and 
simmer  half  an  hour.  Then  add  an  onion  chopped,  a tablespoon  of 
chopped  parsley,  a blade  of  mace,  and  two  cloves.  Mix  to  a smooth 
paste  a tablespoon  flour,  stir  it  in  and  simmer  till  meat  is  tender, 
then  stir  in  half  cup  rich  cream.  If  not  thick  enough  add  a little 
more  flour.  Boil  up  once  and  serve.  Or  for  a Creeled  Rahhit.,  put 
pieces  in  an  earthen  bean-pot  Avith  close  cover,  alternate  Avith  lay- 
ers of  sliced  onions,  and  season  highly  Avith  salt  and  pepper ; cover 
the  top  Avith  slices  of  raAV  ham  or  bacon,*  and  bake  in  a moderate 
oven  an  hour  and  three-quarters.  SerA^e  hot. 

Fried,  Rahhit. — When  nicely  dressed  lay  it  in  a pan  with  cold 
water,  add  a half  cup  salt  and  soak  oA^ernight.  In  the  morning 
drain  off  Avater,  cut  up  and  roll  each  piece  in  corn  meal  and  let 
stand  till  time  to  cook  for  dinner;  then  rinse,  cut  up  and  parboil  in 
slightly  salted  Avater,  Avith  one  large  or  two  small  onions  sliced  in 
it,  until  tender  ; take  out,  roll  in  corn  meal  or  equal  parts  meal  and 
flour  and  fry  in  a little  butter  a nice  broAvn.  Make  a gravy  in  the 
pan  or  serve  with  onion  sauce.  Or,  dip  the  pieces  in  beaten 
egg,  then  roll  in  cracker  crumbs  and  immerse  in  lard,  or  half  lard 
and  beef  drippings,  or  American  cooking  oil,  as  fritters,  and  fry  brown. 
Garnish  with  slices  of  lemon  alternated  Avith  green  leaves.  Some 
prefer  to  thus  soak  and  parboil  rabbits  before  roasting,  thinking  it 
gives  a more  delicate  flavor. 

Potted  Rahhit. — Cut  one  large  rabbit  or  two  small  ones  in 
pieces  and  put  it  in  a stone  jar ; cut  one  pound  each  veal  and  bacon 
in  large  dice,  mix  and  add  livers  and  a teaspoon  mace,  cloves,  and 
black  pepper,  and  a teaspoon  salt,  and  fill  the  spaces  between  the 
pieces  of  rabbit.  Lay  a thin  slice  or  tAvo  of  bacon  on  top  and  one 
bay  leaf,  then  cover  AAdth  a lid  of  plain  paste  made  of  flour  and  water 
only,  set  the  jar  in  a pan  or  pot  containing  water  and  bake  in  a slow 
oven  three  or  four  hours.  There  is  no  water  needed  in  the  meat. 
A greased  paper  on  top  will  keep  the  paste  from  burning.  When 


370 


GAME. 


done,  set  the  jar  away  to  become  cold,  then  pick  meat  from  pieces 
of  rabbit  and  pound  to  a paste  with  veal  and  bacon  and  fat,  and  if 
any  gravy  at  the  bottom,  boil  down  almost  dry  and  mix  it  in.  Sea- 
son to  taste.  Press  solid  into  small  jars  or  cups,  and  cover  the  top 
with  the  clear  part  of  melted  butter.  Keep  tightly  covered  in  a cool 
place.  For  Sandwiches  of  Potted  Rabhif  make  baking  powder  or 
buttermilk  biscuits  large  in  diameter,  but  thin  and  flaky,  split  them, 
spread  one  half  with  butter,  the  other  with  potted  rabbit  and  place 
them  together  again. 

Roast  Rahbit, — Rub  inside  with  pepper  and  salt  and  fill  with  a 
dressing  made  of  bread-crumbs,  chopped  salt  pork,  thyme,  onion, 
and  pepper  and  salt,  sew  up,  rub  over  with  a little  butter,  or  pin  on 
it  with  wooden  toothpicks  a few  slices  of  salt  pork,  add  a little  water 
in  the  pan,  and  baste  often,  or  roast  without  a dressing ; and  some, 
larding  as  above,  pour  boiling  water  into  bottom  of  pan,  cover  with 
another  pan  of  equal  size,  letting  rabbit  steam  half  an  hour ; then 
take  off  cover,  baste  with  a little  butter,  and  let  brown.  Serve  wflth 
mashed  potatoes  and  currant  jelly,  and  always  serve  a nice  pickle 
with  any  dish  of  rabbit. 

Roast  Reed  Birds. — ^Roasting  by  suspending  on  the  little  wire 
which  accompanies  the  roaster,  is  the  best  method ; turn  and  ba^ste 
frequently  ; they  are  often  roasted  with  a very  thin  slice  of  salt  pork 
fastened  round  each  with  skewer ; serve  on  toast  with  the  drippings 
from  the  pan  poured  over.  An  oyster  rolled  in  bread-crumbs  and 
well  seasoned  with  pepper  and  salt  may  be  placed  in  each  bird  be- 
fore roasting.  For  Baked  Reed  Birds.,  wash  and  peel  with  as  thin 
a paring  as  possible  large  potatoes  of  equal  size,  cut  a deep  slice  off 
one  end  of  each,  and  scoop  out  a part  of  the  potatoes ; drop 
a piece  of  butter  into  each  bird,  pepper  and  salt,  and  put  it  in 
the  hollows  made  in  the  potatoes ; put  on  as  covers  the 
pieces  cut  off,  and  clip  the  other  end  for  them  to  stand  on ; 
tie  them  with  twine  and  set  in  a baking  pan  upright,  with  a lit- 
tle water  to  prevent  burning,  bake  slowly  and  when  done  remove 
the  twine  and  tie  instead  with  cord,  tape  or  ribbon  and  send  to  table 
on  a napkin.  Or  bake  in  a dripping-pan  with  plenty  of  butter, 
turning  to  brown  both  sides.  They  may  also  be  boiled  in  crust 
like  dumplings. 

Roast  Snipe. — Snipe  are  best  roasted  with  a piece  of  pork  tied 
to  the  breast  and  placed  before  an  open  fire  ; or  rub  with  butter  and  put 
in  pan  on  trivet  or  muffin  rings  without  water  and  cook  half  an  hour,  or 
they  may  be  stuffed  and  baked.  In  either  case  serve  on  toast.  Or  run 
them  on  skewers  alternately  with  thin  slices  of  bacon  or  small  sausages, 
and  roast  as  above ; w^hen  done  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and 
serve  hot  at  once  on  the  skewers ; toast  can  be  served  with  them. 
This  is  a nice  way  for  all  small  birds.  Serve  on  toast. 


GAME. 


371 


Steioed  Squirrel. — Skin  as  rabbits  (see  recipe)  and  cut  in 
pieces,  discarding  the  head ; lay  them  in  cold  water ; put  a large 
tablespoon  lard  in  a stewpan,  with  an  onion  sliced,  and  a tablespoon 
of  flour ; let  fry  until  the  flour  is  brown,  then  put  in  a pint  of  water 
the  squirrel  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  cook  until  tender’ 
When  half  done  put  in  strips  of  nice  puff-paste  and  a little  butter* 

Roast  Teal. — Choose  fat  plump  birds,  after  frost  has  set  in,  aS 
they  are  generally  better  flavored.  Skin,  draw,  and  roast  in  oven  in 
a little  butter  and  water  if  needed ; serve  with  a brown  or  orange 
gravy  and  garnish  with  sliced  lemon.  For  Fried  Teal.,  cut  up, 
fry  in  pan,  turning  to  brown  both  sides,  and  when  done  add  season- 
ing and  half  cup  currant  jelly  ; stir  teal  about  in  the  jelly  and  serve 
on  slices  of  toast  with  the  jelly  turned  over  each  piece.  Fried 
Grouse  is  prepared  in  same  way,  some  using  only  the  breast,  and 
also  Fried  Buck.  The  jelly  dressing  may  be  omitted,  serving  with 
a teaspoon  cold  currant  jelly  on  each  piece  instead. 

Broiled  Venison. — Cut  thin  slices  from  the  loin  or  take  cutletf 
from  the  leg,  season  with  pepper  and  salt  and  broil  quickly  on  but 
tered  gridiron.  Or  bread  the  slices  before  broiling.  Dish  on  hoi 
platter  with  bit  of  butter  under  each  and  serve  with  a gravy  saucf 
or  a dish  of  currant  jelly,  and  for  vegetables  baked  potatoes  and 
stewed  mushrooms. 

Fried'  Venison. — Take  slices  from  the  loin  or  leg  and  place  in 
frying-pan  which  has  been  covered  to  depth  of  half  an  inch  with 
butter  made  smoking  hot,  and  quickly  brown  both  sides  ; season  with 
pepper  and  salt  and  put  in  two  tablespoons  jelly  to  each  pound 
venison.  Slices  an  inch  thick  should  cook  twenty  minutes.  Serve 
hot  with  the  gravy  from  pan  poured  over.  It  may  be  fried  withou^t 
the  jelly  but  is  much  nicer  with  it. 

Hashed  Venison. — Remove  the  bones  from  cold  venison,  and 
mince  it  flne ; to  a pint  of  minced  venison  allow  two  tablespoons 
each  butter  and  currant  jelly ; heat  them  together,  season  the  min^e 
palatably  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  serve  on  toast,  very  hot.  Veni- 
son Patties  is  another  good  way  to  utilize  bits  of  cold  venison  ; chop 
flne,  heat  with  some  of  the  gravy  left  from  dinner,  season  with  pep- 
per and  salt,  then  fill  patty-pans  with  the  venison  and  cover  the  top 
with  crust ; bake  until  crust  is  done  brown*. 

Roast  Venison. — The  haunch,  the  leg,  and  the  saddle  of  veni- 
son, which  is  the  double  loin,  are  best  for  roasting  or  baking.  Wash 
in  warm  water  and  dry  well  with  a cloth,  season  with  salt  and  pep- 
per, and  wrap  in  several  sheets  of  buttered  paper  or  cover  with  a 
coarse  paste  made  of  flour  and  water,  though  some  use  both  paper 
and  paste,  first  putting  a sheet  of  white  paper,  buttered,  over  the  fat, 
then  spread  with  the  paste,  half  an  inch  thick,  and  over  this  put  a 


372 


GAME. 


sheet  or  two  of  strong  paper,  binding  the  whole  firmly  on  with 
twine ; then  either  put  it  before  the  fire  on  a spit,  or  place  in  a drip- 
ping-pan in  very  hot  oven,  and  cook  about  fifteen  minutes  to  the 
pound  if  desired  medium  rare.  If  roasted  before  the  fire  baste  con- 
stantly while  cooking  and  in  either  case,  about  twenty  minutes 
before  it  is  done,  quicken  the  fire,  carefully  remove  the  paste  and 
paper,  dredge  with  flour,  and  baste  well  with  butter  until  it  is  nicely 
frothed,  and  of  a pale  brown  color;  if  a haunch,  garnish  the  knuckle- 
bone with  a frill  of  Avhite  paper,  and  serve  with  an  unflavored  gravy 
made  from  the  drippings  in  a tureen,  and  currant  jelly  or  jelly  and 
mustard  sauce.  As  the  principal 
object  in  roasting  venison  is  to 


preserve  the  fat,  the  latter  is  the 
best  mode  of  doing  so  where  ex- 
pense is  not  objected  to ; but  in 
ordinary  cases  the  paste  may  be  Hoast  Hauncn  or  venison, 

dispensed  with,  and  a double  paper  placed  over  the  roast  instead ; 
it  will  not  require  so  long  cooking  without  the  paste.  Send  to  table 
on  a hot  platter,  or  better  on  a hot-water  platter  as  illustrated,  and 
serve  on  hot  plates,  as  the  venison  fat  so  soon  cools ; to  be  thoroughly 
enjoyed  by  epicures,  it  should  be  eaten  on  hot-water  plates.  The 
neck  and  shoulder  may  be  roasted  in  same  manner.  Some  wash 
the  venison  in  lukewarm  vinegar  and  water  before  roasting  and  rub 
well  with  butter  or  lard  to  soften  the  skin,  while  others  remove  the 
dry  outer  skin  entirely,  and  think  it  better  to  tie  on  the  papers  and 
paste  the  day  before  vv^anted.  One  mode  of  baking  is  to  place  in 
dripping-pan  with  boiling  water  in  the  bottom,  invert  another  pan 
over  it  to  keep  in  the  steam,  and  let  it  cook  thus 'an  hour  with  a 
good  fire ; wet  all  over  with  hot  water,  cover  again  and  bake  an 
hour  and  a half  longer ; then  remove  papers  and  paste,  let  brown 
half  an  hour,  basting  every  five  minutes,  and  finish  by  dredging 
with  flour  and  butter  to  make  a froth.  Or  bake  in  dripping-pan 
simply  covered  with  the  paste,  basting  every  ten  minutes  with  the 
hot  water  or  gravy  from  the  pan,  removing  the  paste  half  an  hour 
before  done,  and  finish  as  above.  Take  up  on  a hot  dish,  skim  the 
gravy  left  in  dripping-pan,  strain,  thicken  with  browmed  flour,  add 
two  teaspoons  currant  jelly,  and  pepper  and  salt.  Boil  for  an  in- 
stant, and  serve  in  a gravy-boat.  Or  a very  nice  gravy  is  made 
thus  : Pour  all  the  fat  ffom  the  baking  pan,  and  put  in  the  pan  a 
cup  boiling  water.  Stir  from  the  sides  and  bottom  and  set  back 
where  it  will  keep  hot.  Put  a tablespoon  butter  in  a small  frying- 
pan  with  small  slice  of  onion,  six  pepper-corns  and  four  whole  cloves. 
Cook  until  the  onion  is  browned,  add  a heaping  teaspoon  flour,  and 
stir  until  browned  ; then  gradually  add  the  gravy  in  the  pan ; boil 
one  minute,  strain,  and  add  a half  teaspoon  lemon  juice  and  three 
tablespoons  currant  jelly.  Serve  both  venison  and  gravy  very  hot. 
Or  after  the  venison  has  been  put  in  the  oven  chop  all  bits  trimmed 


GAME. 


373 


from  it,  and  put  over  the  fire,  with  any  venison  bones  available,  or 
use  beef  bones  ; cover  with  boiling  water,  season  with  salt  and  pep- 
per, add  ten  whole  cloves  or  about  quarter  of  small  nutmeg,  and 
simmer  gently  while  venison  is  baking,  taking  care  to  keep  covered 
with  water.  Take  up  the  venison  when  done  and  keep  very  hot 
while  grav}^  is  made  as  follows  : Set  the  baking-pan  over  the  fire, 
stir  into  it  a heaping  tablespoon  flour,  and  brown  it,  then  strain  into 
it  the  liquid  from  the  bones,  season  with  salt  and  pepper  and  stir  in 
as  much  currant  jelly  as  liked.  To  bake  Venison  a la  Mode^  re- 
move the  bone  from  the  haunch,  and  make  a large  quantity  of  force- 
meat, or  stuffing  of  bread-crumbs,  bits  of  pork,  an  onion  minced 
line,  a small  piece  of  celery,  or  celery-seed,  parsley,  and  sage.  Season 
with  pepper  and  salt  to  taste.  Press  in  the  stuffing  till  the  hole  left 
by  the  bone  is  filled.  Sew  up  the  opening  and  spread  over  it  nice 
lard,  sprinkling  with  pepper  and  salt,  or  bake  as  above,  in  a paste, 
until  well  done.  Serve  with  either  of  the  gravies  given. 

Steioed  Venison. — Use  the  neck,  shoulder,  inferior  part  of  the 
leg  or  the  backbone  with  the  layer  of  tender  meat  each  side,  for  a 
stew;  cut  into  seveial  pieces,  and  put  in  a stewpan  with  just  water 
or  stock  enough  to  cover  it ; add  a grated  onion,  bunch  sweet  herbs, 
salt,  black  pepper,  and  part  of  a red  pepper  pod.  Simmer  gently  from 
three  and  a half  to  four  hours,  and  if  it  becomes  rather  dry  add 
boiling  water  ; it  is  well  to  stew  with  it  some  slices  of  fat  mutton ; 
just  before  serving  thicken  with  flour  rubbed  smooth  in  an  ounce  of 
butter.  Serve  with  red  currant  jelly.  Another  way  is  to  put  the 
v^enison  in  a saucepan  in  which  butter  enough  to  cover  half  an  inch 
'In  depth  has  been  made  smoking  hot.  Brown  the  venison  in  this 
,and  stir  with  it  a tablespoon  flour  for  each  pound ; when  the  flour 
is  browned  cover  the  venison  with  boiling  water,  add  a teaspoon 
.currant  jelly  for  each  pound,  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper. 
Cover  closely  and  stew  half  an  hour,  or  until  tender ; serve  hot  with 
the  sauce  in  which  it  has  been  cooked  poured  over.  For  a stew 
from  the  remains  of  roast,  cut  the  meat  from  the  bones  in  neat 
slices,  and  if  there  is  sufficient  of  its  own  gravy  left,  put  the  meat 
into  this,  as  it  is  preferable  to  any  other.  Should  there  not  be 
enough,  put  the  bones  and  trimmings  into  a stewpan,  with  about  a 
pint  of  any  good  gravy  or  stock ; stew  gently  for  an  hour,  and  strain 
gravy.  Put  a little  flour  and  butter  into  stew])an,  keep  stirring 
until  brown,  then  add  strained  grav}^  and  let  boil,  skim  and  strain 
again,  and  when  a little  cool  put  in  the  slices  of  venison.  Place 
stewpan  on  back  of  stove  and  when  on  the  point  of  simmering,  serve ; 
do  not  allow  it  to  boil,  or  the  meat  will  be  hard. 

Roast  Woodcock. — Put  an  onion,  salt  and  hot  water  into  a drip 
ping-pan  with  the  birds  and  baste  for  ten  or  fifteen  minutes ; then 
change  pan ; put  in  a slice  of  salt  pork  and  baste  with  butter  and 
pork  drippings  very  often ; just  before  serving  dredge  lightly  with 


374 


GAME. 


flour  and  baste.  Or  fill  y\^ith  a rich  forcemeat  of  bread-crumbs,  pep- 
per, salt,  and  melted  butter ; sew  up  and  roast,  basting  with  butter 
and  water,  from  twenty  minutes  to  half  an  hour.  When  half  done, 
put  circular  slices  of  buttered  toast  underneath  to  catch  the  juice, 
and  serve  on  these  when  taken  up.  Roast  Snipe  and  other  small 
birds  same  way. 

Fried  WoodcocJi. — Dress,  wipe  clean,  tie  the  legs  close  to  the. 
body ; skin  the  head  and  neck,  turn  the  beak  under 
the  wing  and  tie  it ; fasten  a very  thin  piece  of  bacon 
around  the  breast  of  each  bird,  immerse  in  hot  fat  for 
two  or  three  minutes.  Season  and  serve  on  buttered 
toast.  Some  pierce  the  legs  with  the  beak  of  the  bird, 
as  illustrated.  Fried  Snipe  is  prepared  in  same  way.  woodcocu. 
Broiled  Woodcock  is  a favorite  clish.  Split  them  down  the  back 
and  broil,  basting  with  butter,  and  serve  on  toast. 

Bird  Compote. — Prepare  as  for  roasting  and  fill  each  with  a 
dressing  made  as  follows  : Allovf  for  each  bird  the  size  of  a pigeon 
one  half  a hard-boiled  egg,  chopped  fine,  a tablespoon  bread-crumbs, 
a teaspoon  chopped  pork ; first  season  the  birds  with  pepper  and 
salt,  then  stufi’  and  lay  them  in  a kettle  that  has  a tight  cover.  Place 
over  the  birds  a few  slices  of  pork,  add  a pint  water  for  twelve  birds, 
dredge  over  them  a little  flour,  cover,  and  put  them  in  a hot  oven. 
Let  them  cook  until  tender,  then  add  a little  cream  and  butter.  If 
sauce  is  too  thin  thicken  with  a little  flour. 

Potted  Game. — Take  any  cooked  remains  of  game  and  pound 
well  together,  having  previously  removed  all  skin  and  bone.  Add 
'to  the  paste  pounded  mace,  allspice,  cayenne  pepper,  salt,  pepper, 
and  a lump  of  sugar  pounded.  Any  remains  of  ham  may  be  in- 
cluded with  the  game,  and  should  be  of  an  equal  quantity.  Rub  the 
paste  through  a wire  sieve,  If  no  ham  be  added  use  an  equal 
amount  of  butter.  Mix  it  well  again,  and  place  in  pots  or  jars,  cov- 
ered with  either  clarified  butter  or  lard.  When  required  for  use,  dish 
on  an  aspic  jell}^  and  garnish  with  fresh  parsley. 

Puree  of  Game  and  Rice. — This  is  a pretty  and  economical 
dish,  coming  under  the  head  of  secondary  cookery.  Take  the  re- 
mains of  any  kind  of  roast  or  boiled  game,  put  into  a stewpan  with 
a gill  of  water,  stick  of  celery,  a little  thyme,  and  an  onion.  S3  oil 
gently  together.  Mince  meat,  and  pound  in  a mortar  with  a small 
bit  of  butter,  and  a spoonful  gravy  from  the  bones.  This  should 
be  in  a state  of  pulp ; rub  through  a hair  seive,  put  in  stewpan  with 
stock  from  bones,  which  ought  to  be  reduced  to  less  than  a gill  in 
quantity.  Add  a gill  cream,  a sprinkling  merely  -of  pepper,  salt  and 
nutmeg,  and  a teaspoon  flour ; dish  with  rice,  potato  croquettes, 
poached  eggs,  and  thin  narrow  strips  of  bacon  as  a garnish,  or  with 
merely  the  rice  and  tufts  of  parsley. 


GA.ME. 


Spanish  Stew. — Use  hare,  rabbit,  chicken,  partridge  or  pheas- 
ants. Cut  up,  wipe  with  damp  towel  and  save  the  giblets.  Put  the 
pieces  in  a pan  with  sweet  oil  and  onion  sliced  and  fried  brown. 
Add  some  chopped  ham  and  sweet  herbs,  season  with  cayennne  pep- 
per, and  sufficient  beef  broth  to  cover  well ; add  the  giblets,  let  sim- 
mer, skim  off  the  grease,  stir  meat  from  the  bottom,  and  when  done 
add  the  juice  of  two  oranges.  Serve  hot  in  covered  dish. 

Western  Pie. — Pluck  and  skin  blackbirds  or  small  birds  of  any 
kind,  enough  to  fill  a baking-dish  of  medium  size,  cut  off  heads  and 
feet,  except  leaving  feet  on  half  a dozen  for  upper  row ; draw  them 
vvithout  breaking  entrails,  put  birds  into  saucepan,  with  enough  boil- 
ing water  to  cover,  tablespoon  each  butter 
and  flour  rubbed  to  a smooth  paste  to  each 
dozen  birds,  and  a palatable  seasoning  of 
pepper  and  salt,  and  let  stew  gently  until 
tender.  For  every  dozen  small  birds  boil 
three  eggs  hard,  remove  shells,  and  cut  eggs 
in  halves  and  while  birds  are  stewing,  make 
a nice  crust  as  directed  in  Pastry,  line  a bak- 
ing dish  and  partly  bake  it ; when  birds  are  tender  put  them  in  it, 
together  with  the  hard  boiled  eggs,  pour  in  as  much  of  the  gravy 
used  in  stewing  the  birds  as  the  dish  will  hold,  put  on  a cover  of 
pastry,  brush  the  top  with  beaten  egg,  and  bake  in  a moderate  oven, 
until  upper  crust  is  done.  If  any  gravy  remains  after  filling  pie, 
keep  hot  and  serve  with  it.  Blackbirds  skinned,  parboiled,  and  fried 
or  broiled  and  served  on  toast  are  delicious. 

Washington  Roast. — Have  a pair  of  young  v/ild  ducks  careful- 
ly skinned  and  cleaned,  wipe  inside  and  out  'with  a wet  towel  and 
stuff  with  potatoes,  boiled  until  tender,  mashed  as  if  for  table,  and 
seasoned  with  teaspoon  grated  onion,  pepper,  salt,  teaspoon  powder- 
ed herbs  and  two  heaping  tablespoons  butter,  or  a dressing  made 
with  milk  or  cream  may  be  used,  or  do  not  stuff  at  all.  Sew  up  the 
ducks,  truss  them,’ put  in  baking  pan,  set  in  hot  oven  and  as  soon  as 
lightly  browned  dredge  them  well  with  flour  and  baste  with  drip- 
pings in  pan,  or  with  butter.  Bake  half  an  hour,  basting  two  or  three 
times.  Serve  with  Giblet  Gravy.  Or  make  an  Orange  Sauce  by 
scraping  tablespoon  each  fat  bacon  and  onions  and  fry  them  togeth- 
er five  minutes,  then  add  juice  of  an  orange  and  tablespoon  currant 
jelly.  Skim  off  all  fat  from  baking  pan,  put  in  above  mixture,  and 
a little  thickening  if  necessary,  boil  up  and  serve.  Epicures  prefer 
this  method  to  that  of  first  parboiling  the  ducks.  For  Stewed  Ducks 
have  them  nicely  picked ; stuff  with  bread  and  butter  flavored  with 
onions,  pepper,  and  a few  celery-seeds  ; flour  them,  then  brown  in  lard 
in  frying  pan  ; put  in  a few  slices  of  ham  in  iron  stew-pot  chopped 
onions,  water,  pepper,  and  salt,  with  a few  blades  of  mace  ; add  ducks 
and  let  them  stew  gently  but  constantl  v for  two  or  three  hours  ; flour 
them  each  time  they  are  turned  in  pot ; thicken  gravy  with  butter 
rolled  in  flour,  and  serve  hot. 


B76 


GEIDDLE  CAKES. 


I 


G^RIDDLE  CAKES. 


Griddle-cakes  should  be  well  beaten  when  first  made,  and  cake? 
in  which  eggs  are  used  are  much  lighter  when  the  eggs  are  separated^, 
whipping  the  yolks  to  a thick  cream,  and  adding  the  whites  beaten 
to  a stiff  froth  just  before  baking.  All  griddle-cakes  are  much  nicer 
mixed  and  kept  overnight,  to  allow  the  flour  to  swell,  stirring  in  the 
whites  of  eggs  and  soda  or  baking  powder,  when  used,  just  before 
baking.  Cakes  are  much  more  easily,  quickly  and  neatly  baked  if 
made  in  a vessel  with  a spout  from  which  the  batter  may  be  poured, 
and  one  can  be  provided  for  this  purpose.  Have  the  griddle  clean,  and 
if  the  cakes  stick  sprinkle  on  salt  and  rub  with  a coarse  cloth  before 
greasing.  The  neatest  way  to  grease  a griddle  is  with  a large  piece 
of  ham  or  pork  rind  kept  for  this  purpose,  and  some  use  a thick 
slice  of  turnip.  Many  prefer  griddles  made  of  soap-stone,  which 
need  no  greasing — grease  spoils  them — but  they  need  to  be  very  hot. 
They  are  more  costly  and  more  easily  broken  than  iron,  and  with 
care  cakes  may  be  baked  on  an  iron  griddle  without  greasing,  if  it  is 
kept  'polished,  and  rubbed  well  with  a cloth  after  every  baking.  The 
artificial  stone  griddle  illustrated  is  a new  article,  light  and  durable, 

equally  as  good  as  the  soap-stone, 
doing  away  with  all  grease  and 
smoke  and  much  cheaper.  Whether 
greased  or  not,  iron  griddles,  if 
Artificial  stone  Griddle.  properly  carcd  for,  need  washing 

but  seldom.  Immediately  after  use  they  should  be  carefully  wiped 
and  put  away  out  of  the  dust,  never  to  be  used  for  any  other  pur- 


GRIDDLE  hakes. 


[30se.  Do  not  turn  griddle-cakes  the  second  time  ivhile  baking,  as  it 


makes  them  heavy ; this  rule  should  never  be  departed  from,  save 


in  making  fruit  cakes,  when  it  is  necessary  to  turn  them  quickly  to 


form  a crust  to  confine  the  juice  of  the  berries,  and  again  to  cook  them 
thoroughly ; serve  all  cakes  the  same  side  up  as  when  taken  from 
griddle.  The  cake  lifter  illustrated 
is  almost  indispensable  in  turning 


cakes  smoothly  and  evenly  and  the 


Cake  Lifter. 


cost  of  it  is  small.  Buckwheat  cakes  are  highly  esteemed  for  win- 
ter breakfast,  but  are  very  properly  never,  or  rarely,  served  in  sum- 
mer, as  the  chief  value  of  buckwheat  as  a food  is  its  heat  produc- 
ing properties. 

In  making  batter,  bread  or  corn  meal  cakes,  either  sour  milk  or 
'outtermilk  may  be  used  with  soda;  or  sweet  milk  or  water  with 
baking  powder,  as  convenient,  using  same  proportion  of  other  in- 
gredients, and  remember  that  one  heaping  teaspoon  baking  powder 
possesses  the  same  rising  properties  as  one  level  teaspoon  soda.  A 
greater  proportion  of  either  of  the  rising  powders  is  necessary  with 
buckwheat,  Graham  and  corn  meal  than  with  flour. 


Batter  Cakes. — Make  a batter  of  one  quart  each  flour  and  sour 
milk,  and  let  stand  overnight.  In  the  morning  add  three  eggs 
beaten  separately,  a tablespoon  butter,  and  two  level  teaspoons 
soda.  Pulverize  the  soda  very  fine  before  measuring,  then  thor- 
oughly mix  with  the  flour.  Add  whites  of  eggs  just  before  baking 
on  the  griddle.  For  Corn  Cakes  use  two-thirds  corn  meal  and  one- 
third  flour.  Sweet  milk  or  water  may  be  used  with  two  heaping 
teaspoons  baking  powder  thoroughly  mixed  with  the  flour.  These 
may  also  be  made  without  eggs,  and  some  prefer  to  sweeten  them, 
using  either  molasses  or  sugar  to  taste.  Buttermilk  may  be  used 
instead  of  sour  milk.  For  Raised  Batter  Cakes  take  three  eggs, 
one  teaspoon  sugar,  one  coffee-cup  each  sweet  milk  and  warm 
water,  four  tablespoons  potato  yeast,  flour  enough  to  make  a stiff 
batter;  beat  yolks  and  sugar  well,  stir  in  milk,  water  and  yeast,  and 
lastly  flour,  stir  well,  and  set  in  warm  place  to  rise  ; when  light,  beat 
whites  to  a stiff  froth,  and  stir  into  batter  with  a pinch  of  salt.  Very 
nice  for  breakfast  if  set  the  night  before.  For  Tomato  Cakes^  slice 
large,  solid  ripe  tomatoes,  cover  with  the  batter  without  yeast  and 
fry  on  a griddle ; season  with  pepper  and  salt  while  frying. 

Bread  Cakes. — Soak  stale  bits  of  bread  overnight  in  sour  milk  ; 
in  the  morning  rub  through  a sieve  or  colander,  and  to  one  quart 
add  yolks  of  two  eggs,  one  teaspoon  each  salt  and  soda,  two  table* 


378 


GRIDDLE  CAKES. 


spoons  sugar,  and  flour  enough  to  make  a batter  a little  thicker  than 
for  buckwheat  cakes ; add  last  the  well-beaten  whites  of  eggs,  and 
bake.  Or  for  Bread  Calces  with  Corn  Meal,  soak  bread-crumbs 
overnight  in  one  quart  sour  milk,  rub  as  above,  and  add  four  well- 
beaten  eggs,  two  teaspoons  soda  dissolved  in  a little  water,  one  table- 
spoon melted  butter,  and  enough  corn  meal  to  make  the  consistency 
of  ordinary  griddle-cakes.  It  is  better  to  bea,t  yolks  and  whites 
separately,  stirring  the  whites  in  just  before  baking.  Either  sweet 
milk  or  water  may  be  used,  with  two  heaping  teaspoons  baking 
powder,  instead  of  sour  milk  and  soda.  And  if  wanted  to  bake  im- 
mediately, pour  enough  hot  water  over  the  bread  to  moisten  it  well, 
then  put  through  a colander  and  add  other  ingredients  as  above, 
with,  if  necessary,  a little  sweet  milk,  sour  milk  oi*  buttermilk,  as 
liked,  to  give  the  proper  consistency.  Some  add  a little  shortening 
of  butter  or  cream.  To  make  Raised  Bread  Cakes,  soak  the  bread 
in  enough  cold  milk  to  make  it  very  soft,  almost  liquid ; then  beat 
it  to  a smooth  batter  over  the  fire  and  let  it  get  scalding  hot ; cool  a. 
little,  and  to  each  quart  soaked  bread  stir  in  one  tablespoon  yeast, 
two  well-beaten  eggs,  level  teaspoon  salt,  and  enough  flour  to  form 
a hatter  that  will  hold  a drop  let  fall  from  the  spoon.  Cover  it  with 
folded  towel  and  let  rise  overnight,  if  the  cakes  are  intended  for 
breakfast,  or  five  hours,  if  to  be  used  at  noon  or  evening. 

Buckwheat  Cakes. — Buckwheat  flour,  when  properly  ground,  is 
perfectly  free  from  grits.  The  grain  should  be  run  through  the  smut- 
ter  with  a strong  blast  before  grinding,  and  the  greatest  care  taken 
through  the  whole  process.  Adulteration  with  rye  or  corn  cheapens 
the  flour,  but  injures  the  quality.  The  pure  buckwheat  is  best,  and 
is  unsurpassed  for  griddle-cakes.  To  make  batter,  warm  one  pint 
sweet  milk  and  one  pint  water  (one  may  be  coLd’and  the  other  boil- 
ing) ; put  half  this  mixture  in  a stone  crock,  add  five  teacups  buck- 
wheat flour,  beat  well  until  smooth,  add  rest  of  milk  and  water, 
teaspoon  salt,  and  last  a teacup  yeast.  Or,  same  ingredients  and  pro- 
portions may  be  used  except  adding  two  tablespoons  molasses  or 
sugar,  which  makes  them  brown  nicely,  and  using  one  quart  ,/ater 
instead  one  pint  each  milk  and  water.  Some  like  also  to  shorten 
themwfith  two  tablespoons  melted,  lard.  Or,  another  rule,  sift  one 
quart  buckwheat  flour  and  add  a cun  scalded  corn  meal,  tablespoon 
sugar  and  teaspoon  salt.  Stir  in  a half  cup  yeast  and  mix  to  a good 
batter  with  lukevrarm  water.  Set  to  rise  in  a warm  n.Iace  overnight 
and  before  baking  in  the  morning,  thin  if  necessary  with  warm 
water,  and  if  it  is  even  the  least  bit  sour  add  a half  teaspoon  soda, 
but  take  out  a cup  of  the  batter,  before  adding  the  soda,  to  serve  as 
a rising  for  the  next  baking  and  put  away  in  a cool  place.  If  this  is 
done  every  morning,  fresh  yeast  will  not  be  necessary  for  several 
days ; some  who  bake  cakes  every  morning  use  no  other  yeast 
all  winter  and  think  them  better  raised  thus.  Some  never  stir  buck- 
wheat cakes  after  they  have  risen,  but  take  them  out  carefully  with 


GRIDDLE  CAKES. 


379 


a large  spoon,  placing  the  spoon  when  emptied  in  a saucer,  and  not 
back  again  in  the  batter.  Wheat  flour  is  used  by  many  instead  of 
corn  meal,  and  it  is  recommended  by  some  that  oats  he  ground  with 
buckwheat,  one-third  oats  to  two-thirds  buckwheat. 

Some  good  housekeepers  in  the  country  who  make  salt-rising 
bread  and  thus  do  not  keep  a supply  of  yeast  constantly  on  hand 
may  be  glad  when  buckwheat  cake  time  comes,  of  a recipe  for  mak- 
ing Yeast  without  Yeast : Take  a tablespoon  and  a half  each  New 
Orleans  molasses  and  warm  water,  stir  in  enough  flour  for  a thin 
batter  and  set  in  a warm  place.  It  will  soon  begin  to  throw  up  bifl)- 
bles  and  in  a short  time  ferment.  \Vhile  waiting  for  this,  make 
ready  for  it  by  boiling  a teacup  of  hops  in  two  quarts  water  twenW 
minutes ; strain  and  stir  in  a pint  flour  and  tablespoon  salt,  beating 
until  free  from  lumps.  Put  over  the  fire  and  boil  again  until  of  the 
consistency  of  good  starch ; if  too  thick,  thin  with  boiling  water. 
l\un  into  a bowl,  cover,  and  let  stand  till  lukewarm  and  stir  in  the 
rising  of  molasses,  etc.  Set  where  it  will  be  kept  warm,  but  not 
hot,  until  light,  when  place  in  a jug,  cork  tight,  and  put  away  in  a 
cool  place.  The  following  recipe  is  considered  by  some  especially 
nice  for  buckwheat  cakes : Catnip  Yeast. — Pare  and  boil  six 
laedium-sized  potatoes ; tie  in  a clean  white  cloth  one  handful  cat- 
nip (fresh  or  dry)  and  boil  with  potatoes  ; when  they  are  thoroughly 
cooked  take  out  catnip,  mash  potatoes  with  a fork  and  if  not  smooth 
put  through  a colander  or  sieve ; add  a half  teaspoon  ginger,  hand- 
ful sugar,  teaspoon  salt,  and  water  in  which  potatoes  were  cooked  to 
Tuake  about  tw,o  quarts,  cool  to  blood-heat,  add  half  pint  yeast.  Set 
in  a warm  place  to  rise.  It  will  rise  rather  sloivly  in  making,  but 
Jvill  raise  cakes,  bread,  etc.,  quicker  than  hop  yeast.  The  advantage 
of  catnip  over  hops  is  that  more  yecst  can  be  used  in  cold  weather, 
«.s  is  always  necessary,  without  danger  of  giving  a bitter  taste. 

Buckwheat  Cakes. — To  make  buckwheat  cakes  without  yeast, 
mix  overnight  with  warm  water,  a little  salt,  and  tablespoon  molas- 
ses, one  pint  buckwheat  flour,  to  the  usual  consistency  of  griddle- 
cakes.  When  ready  to  bake  for  lireakfast  add  two  teaspoons  bak- 
ing powder,  thinning  the  batter  if  necessary,  and  bake  immediately 
on  a hot  griddle.  Or  for  Quick  Buckv^heats^  take  one  pint  sour 
milk  or  buttermilk,  teaspoon  soda,  tablespoon  baking  molasses,  or 
a little  sugar ; thicken  with  buckwheat  flour  to  the  consistency  of 
batter-cakes.  Water  may  be  used,  or  sweet  milk  and  baking  pow- 
der, but  the  cakes  will  not  be  as  tender.  Bake  on  a hot  griddle. 

Cerealine  Cakes. — Sift  three-fourths  cup  flour,  teaspoon  baking 
powder  and'  pinch  of  salt  together,  add  three  well-beaten  eggs,  table- 
spoon sugar  and  a cup  cerealine,  and  stir  in  a pint  milk.  Bake 
as  usual  on  a griddle,  or  in  a buttered  round  frying-pan,  putting  in 
enough  batter  each  time  to  make  a cake  covering  half  bottom  of  pan, 
turn  to  brown  both  sides,  butter  each  cake,  roll  up  separately 


380 


GRIDDLE  CAKES. 


sprinkle  with  powdered  sugar  and  serve.  Or  take  half  pound  boiled 
cerealine,  three  tablespoons  sugar,  two  and  one-  ^^r~rs0L;v 
half  cups  flour,  one  and  one-half  teaspoon  baking 
powder,  three  eggs,  teaspoon  salt  and  three-fourths 
pint  milk.  Bake  on  griddle. 


Cerealine  Cakes. 


Clam  Cojkes. — Sift  two  heaping  teaspoons  baking  powder  with 
a quart  flour  and  make  a batter  with  one  pint  milk  and  one  pint 
liquor  from  canned  clams,  adding  a tablespoon  syrup,  little  salt,  four 
tablespoons  melted  butter,  and  well-beaten  yolks  of  ten  eggs.  Stir 
in  two  two-pound  cans  of  chopped  clams  and  bake  as  other  griddle 
cakes. 


Corn  Cakes. — One  pint  corn  meal,  one  of  sour  milk  or  buttei-- 
milk,  one  egg,  one  teaspoon  soda,  one  of  salt.  A tablespoon  flour 
or  half  tablespoon  corn  starch  may  be  used  in  place  of  the  egg ; bake 
on  a griddle.  The  scalding  of  corn  meal  takes  away  the  raw  taste 
and  cakes  made  as  follows  will  be  much  more  delicious  : One  pint 
corn  meal,  one  teaspoon  salt,  small  teaspoon  soda ; pour  on  boiling 
water  until  a little  thinner  than  mush ; let  stand  until  cool ; add 
yolks  of  four  eggs,  half  cup  flour,  in  which  is  mixed  two  teaspoons 
cream  tartar,  and  stir  in  as  much  sweet  milk  or  water  as  will  make 
the  batter  suitable  to  bake  ; beat  the  whites  well  and  add  just  before 
baking.  Or  pour  three  cups  boiling  milk  gradually  over  one  cup 
corn  meal,  stirring  to  avoid  lumps ; sift  one  teaspoon  salt,  one  of 
baking  powder  and  two  tablespoons  sugar  with  one  cup  Tour  and 
add  when  scalded  milk  is  cool ; then  stir  in  two  well-beaten  eggs. 
A tablespoon  cream  or  a little  butter  may  be  added,  and  some  scald 
the  milk,  pour  over  meal,  stirring  in  the  butter  and  sugar  and  let 
stand  overnight,  adding  other  ingredients  in  the  morning.  To  make 
Braised  Corn  Cakes,  scald  a quart  corn  meal,  cool  with  cold  water 
so  as  not  to  scald  the  yeast,  add  two  tablespoons  yeast,  one  of  flour, 
and  salt  to  taste.  Let  stand  overnight,  and  in  the  morning  add  two 
well-beaten  eggs. 

Fo.ri7ia  Cakes. — Scald  four  tablespoons  farina  at  night  with  a 
pint  boiling  water.  In  the  morning  thin  with  one  quart  milk  stirred 
in  slowly  to  avoid  lumps,  and  add  two  well-beaten  eggs,  one  table- 
spoon melted  butter,  salt  to  taste  and  enough  flour  to  make  a good 
1 matter.  Add  a teaspoon  soda  and  two  of  cream  tartar,  or  two,  heap- 
ing, of  baking  powder. 

Flannel  Cakes. — Make  hot  a pint  of  sweet  milk,  and  into  it  put 
two  heaping  tablespoons  butter,  let  melt,  then  add  a pint  of  cold 
milk,  the  well-beaten  yolks  of  four  eggs — placing  the  wdiites  in  a cold 
\ lace — a teaspoon  salt,  four  tablespoons  potato  yeast,  and  sufficient 
flour  to  make  a stiff  batter  ; set  in  a warm  place  to  rise,  let  stand 
three  hours  or  overnight ; before  baking  add  the  beaten  whites ; fry 
like  any  other  griddle-cakes.  Be  sure  to  make  batter  just  stiff  enough^ 


GRIDDLE  CAKES. 


381 


for  flour  must  not  be  added  in  the  morning  unless  it  is  allowed  to 
rise  again.  Or  take  one  cup  corn  meal,  two  of  flour,  three  of  boil- 
ing milk,  one-fourth  yeast  cake  dissolved  in  four  tablespoons  cold 
water,  or  one-fourth  cup  liquid  yeast,  one  teaspoon  salt,  one  table- 
spoon sugar,  two  of  butter.  Heat  the  milk  to  boiling  and  pour  it 
over  the  meal  and  buttev.  When  cool,  add  the  other  ingredients 
and  let  rise  overnight  and  bake  on  griddle. 

French  Pancakes. — Beat  together  till  smooth  yolks  of  six  eggs 
and  a half  pound  of  flour,  melt  four  tablespoons  butter  and  add  to 
batter,  v\dth  one  of  sugar  and  a half  pint  milk,  and  beat  until  smooth. 
A little  grated  lemon  peel  may  be  added  if  wished.  Put  a large 
tablespoon  at  a time  into  small  hot  frying-pan  about  flve  inches  in 
diameter,  slightly  greased,  spread  batter  evenly  over  surface  of  pan 
by  tipping  it  about,  fry  to  light  brown  on  one  side — about  four  min- 
utes— then  sprinkle  sugar  over  or  spread  with  jelly,  jam  or  preserves, 
roll  up  in  pan,  take  out  carefully  without  breaking  and  set  where  it 
will  keep  hop  while  others  are  fried,  sending  to  table  as  hot  and  as 
quickly  as  possible,  dusting  wdth  sugar  just  before  serving.  By  make- 
ing  cakes  thin  they  will  not  need  turning,  which  is  difficult  to  do  when 
cakes  are  large.  For  Plain  French  Cakes,  make  as  much  batter  as 
will  be  required,  allowing  one  egg  and  a quarter  saltspoon  salt  to 
four  heaping  tablespoons  flour  and  a half  pint  milk.  Beat  yolks  of 
eggs,  add  other  ingredients,  beating  thoroughly,  and  stir  in  well- 
whipped  whites,  bake  and  roll  as  above. 

Fruit  Cakes. — Sift  together  one  and  one-half  pints  flour,  one 
teaspoon  salt,  two  of  baking  powder,  one  tablespoon  brown  sugar 
add  two  well-beaten  eggs,  a pint  of  milk  and  a half  pint  blueberries, 
blackberries  or  raspberries.  Have  the  griddle  hot  enough  to  form 
a crust  as  soon  as  the  batter  touches  it,  turn  quickly  to  form  a crust 
on  the  other  side  to  confine  the  juices  of  the  berries ; turn  again  on 
each  side  to  bake  thoroughly. 

Gluten  Cakes. — One  pint  sour  milk,  level  teaspoon  soda; 
thicken  with. gluten  or  entire  wheat  flour  as  for  batter  cakes  ; one  or 
two  eggs  may  be  added,  and  sweet  milk  and  baking  po^vder  may  be 
used  in  place  of  sour  milk  and  soda.  These  are  as  nice  as  buck- 
wheat cakes  and  more  wholesome. 

Graham  Cakes. — One  cup  each  sour  cream  and  tepid  w^ater,  two 
eggs,  the  best  Graham  flour  (unsifted)  to  make  a thin  batter, 
and  scant  level  teaspoon  soda  dissolved  in  the  tepid  water.  The 
water  must  not  be  too  hot,  or  the-  cakes  wdll  be  greasy  and  soggy. 
Bake  slowly  on  not  too  hot  a griddle.  Or  take  one  quart  sifted 
Graham  flour,  teaspoon  baking  powder,  three  eggs,  and  milk  or  water 
enough  to  make  thin  batter.  Or,  if  a mixture  is  preferred,  take  one 
pint  sifted  Graham  flour,  half  pint  each  corn  meal  and  flour,  or  half 
Graham  and  half  corn  meal,  heaping  teaspoon  sugar,  half  teaspoon 


382 


GRIDDLE  CAKES. 


salt,  one  egg,  pint  buttermilk,  teaspoon  soda.  Another  excellent 
recipe  requires  two  cups  Graham  flour,  one  of  flour,  two  and  a half 
of  milk,  one  tablespoon  sugar,  teaspoon  each  salt  and  cream  tartar, 
half  teaspoon  soda,  two  eggs.  Boil  half  the  milk,  pour  it  on  the 
Graham  and  stir  until  smooth ; add  the  cold  milk,  and  set  awa}^  to 
cool ; mix  the  other  ingredients  with  the  flour  and  rub  through  a 
sieve,  and  add  with  the  eggs,  well  beaten,  to  the  Graham  and  milk. 
Rye  Cakes  made  the  same.  What  is  known  as  “Number  One’' 
Graham  flour  does  not  need  to  be  sifted. 

Green  Corn  Cakes. — To  one  quart  grated  corn  (raw)  add  yolks 
of  three  eggs,  cup  sweet  cream  (milk  maybe  used,  adding  table- 
spoon butter),  one  cup  flour,  the  well-beaten  whites,  teaspoon  bak- 
ing powder ; bake  on  griddle  and  serve  hot.  Some  use  a handful 
fresh  bread-crumbs  and  not  so  much  flour. 

Hominy  Cakes. — Beat  a large  tablespoon  butter  into  two  cups 
soft  boiled  hominy,  add  a tablespoon  white  sugar,  little  salt  and  three 
well-beaten  eggs,"  beating  all  well  together;  then  stir  in  a quart 
milk  and  a cup  flour  with  two  heaping  teaspoons  baking  powder. 
Or  take  half  hominy  and  half  flour,  and  water  may  be  used  instead 
of  milk.  Rice  Cakes  made  same.  Bake  very  quickly. 

Oat  Meal  Cakes. — One  cup  each  cooked  oatmeal  and  flour,  one 
egg,  one  teaspoon  each  sugar  and  baking  powder  and  half  teaspoon 
salt,  mixed  with  enough  cold  water  to  make  a nice  batter.  Beat  all 
well  together  and  bake  on  griddle. 

Potato  Cakes — Six  boiled  potatoes  cooled  and  mashed  through 
a colander  (cold  potatoes  maybe  used),  two  eggs, three  tablespoons 
flour,  sweet  milk  to  make  rather  stifl’  batter,  salt,  and  a little  pepper 
if  liked.  Fry  on  griddle.  Nice  with  butter,  syrup  or  jam.  For  Grated 
Potato  Cakes,  after  peeling  and  washing  potatoes,  wipe  dry,  grate 
quickly  and  to  each  cup  grated  potato  allow  one  egg,  and  heaping 
tablespoon  flour.  Beat  potato  and  egg  thoroughly  five  minutes, 
add  flour  and  teaspoon  salt.  Have  tablespoon  drippings  or  lard  in 
frying-pan,  put  in  batter  to  cover  bottom  half  inch  thick,  and  there 
must  be  enough  fat  to  show  around  the  edge  of  cake.  When  brown 
turn  and  brown  the  other  side.  Place  in  oven  on  plate  and  bake  a 
second  one,  adding  more  fat  to  pan  if  necessary,  then  a third,  etc., 
till  all  are  baked.  Place  in  layers  and  serve  at  table  cut  as  jelly 
cake,  only  larger  slices.  Make  in  the  proportion  of  one  grated  po- 
tato to  each  person.  These  are  nice  for  breakfast  or  tea  and  with 
potato  slaw,  cake  or  fruit  and  a cup  tea,  coffee  or  chocolate,  one  has 
almost  a “company  tea.” 

Rye  Cakes. — Warm  a quart  new  milk,  beat  two  eggs  very  light, 
and  add  gradually  with  sufficient  rye  meal  to  make  a moderate  bat- 
ter, putting  in  the  meal  a handful  at  a time ; add  a saltspoon  salt 


GRIDDLE  CAKES. 


883 


and  large  tablespoon  any  fresh  yeast.  Beat  very  light  and  put 
in  a warm  place  to  rise.  Bake  on  hot  griddle  and  eat  with  butter, 
molasses,  or  honey.  Corn  Cakes  may  be  made  after  this  recipe,  or 
use  rye  and  corn  in  equal  proportions. 

Rice  Cakes. — Boil  half  a cup  rice ; when  cold  mix  one  quart 
sweet  milk,  the  yolks  of  four  eggs,  and  flour  sufficient  to  make  a 
stiff  batter ; beat  the  whites  to  a froth,  stir  in  one 
teaspoon  soda,  and  two  of  cream  tartar ; add  a lit- 
tle salt,  and  lastly  the  whites  of  eggs  ; bake  on  a 
griddle.  A nice  way  to  serve  is  to  spread  them  Rice  cakes, 

while  hot  with  butter,  and  almost  any  kind  of  preserves  or  jelly ; roll 
them  up  neatly,  cut  off  the  ends,  sprinkle  them  with  sugar,  and  serve 
immediately.  Or  boil  until  soft  a half  pound  rice,  drain  off  water, 
mash  well,  stir  in  butter  size  of  an  egg,  and  when  cold  add  six  eggs 
beaten  very  light,  pint  flour,  and  quart  lukewarm  milk.  Beat  all 
well  together,  and  bake  on  a hot  griddle. 

Sqimsh  Cakes. — One  cup  cooked  and  sifted  squash,  two  eggs, 
one  and  a half  pints  milk,  little,  salt,  flour  to  make  good  batter,  and 
two  heaping  teaspoons  baking  powder.  Or  take  one  pint  flour,  scant 
pint  milk,  two  eggs,  teaspoon  each  salt  and  cream  tartarj  half  as 
much  soda,  four  tablespoons  sugar,  two  cups  sifted  squash.  Mix 
the  flour  with  the  other  dry  ingredients,  and  rub  through  a sieve ; add 
beaten  eggs  and  milk  to  the  squash,  and  pour  on  the  flour.  Beat 
till  smooth  and  light  and  bake  on  griddle.  Or  take  a half  pint  cold 
stewed  squash,  pumpkin  or  apple,  rubbed  through  a colander ; mix 
with  two  well-beaten  eggs  and  half  pint  milk.  Sift  together  half  pint 
each  Graham  flour  and  corn  meal,  half  teaspoon  salt,  heaping  tea- 
spoon baking  powder.  Mix  all  smoothly  and  thoroughly  into  a bat- 
ter and  bake  quickly  on  hot  griddle. 


684 


ICES  AND  ICE-CREAM. 


ICES  AISTE  lOE-OKEAM. 


Perfectly  fresh  sweet  cream  makes  the  most  delicious  ice-cream, 
!md  what  we  term  double  cream,  standing  twenty-four  hours,  is  best. 
This  sweetened  and  flavored  gives  the  justly  renowned 
Ice-cream^  having  a cream-white  tint  and  a full  rich  flavor.  It  is 
made  either  of  cooked  or  uncooked  cream  ; the  latter  gives  a light 
snowy  texture,  greatly’  increased  in  quantity  but  not  as  fine  in 
quality  as  if  the  cream  is  cooked,  by  placing  in  a custard  kettle,  stir- 
ring often  till  water  in  outer  pan  boils,  then  adding  sugar,  taking  ofl 
fire,  flavoring,  letting  stand  a moment,  straining,  cooling  and  freez- 
ing as  directed  hereafter.  This  gives  a cream  of  greater  body  and 
richness  and  prevents  any  tendency  to  curdling  if  cream  should  ac- 
cidentally not  be  perfectly  fresh,  caused  by  very  hot  sultry  weather,  or 
a passing  thunder-storm.  This  is  made  more  delicious,  adding  light- 
ness to  the  richness,  by  reserving  a part  of  cream,  whipping  it  and 
adding  when  cream  is  half  frozen,  ‘beating  it  well  in  with  a wooden 
paddle ; and  less  flavoring  is  needed,  a quarter  less  at  least,  if  it  is 
added  to  the  whipped  cream,  as  freezing  diminishes  the  strength  of 
flavoring ; consequently,  when  added  before  freezing,  the  cream  must 
be  over-flavored.  Freezing  also  lessens  the  strength  of  the  sugar,  so 
if  the  cream  preparation  is  sweetened  to  taste,  one  must  also  over- 
sweeten. For  whipped  cream  some  let  single  cream  stand  twelve 
hours  after  skimming,  and  then  skim  off  the  richer  portion,  thus 
obtaining  the  ‘‘cream  of  the  cream.”  It  will  be  so  rich  that  it  can 
all  be  whipped  to  a stiff  froth  without  any  remainder.  This  is  the 
true  double-cream. 

When  eggs  are  added  to  the  cream  before  freezing,  making  a 
custard,  it  is  known  as  Neapolitan  Ice-cream^  and  as  it  contains  a 


ICES  AND  ICE-CREAM. 


385 


large  proportion  of  eggs,  yields  an  ice  as  solid,  rich  and  smooth  as  the 
finest  butter,  and  has  a pronounced  custard  flavor,  and  lemon-yel- 
low color.  It  is  prepared  as  follows  : Strain  and  beat  yolks  of  eggs 
to  a smooth  cream,  add  sugar  and  beat  again.  Strain  and  whisk  the 
whites  to  a froth  as  stiff  as  possible,  stir  briskly  into  the  yolks  and 
sugar,  and  mix  with  the  cream.  Cook  in  a custard  kettle  or  a pail 
set  within  a kettle  of  boiling  water  over  a brisk  fire,  stirring  con- 
stantly, until  it  slightly  coats  a knife  blade  dipped  into  it,  and  does 
not  run.  Be  careful  not  to  let  it  curdle.  Take  off  fire,  strain  through 
a wire  sieve  (or  a linen  crash  towel  kept  for  the  purpose  and  marked 
“Ice  Cream,’’)  into  a crock  or  pan,  cover  with  gauze,  and  let  stand 
till  cool,  then  freeze.  It  is  well  to  reserve  some  of  the  cream  and 
whip  and  add  as  above.  These  two  creams  are  made  of  the  pure 
cream ; when  made  of  part  new  milk  and  cream  it  is  called  Lac- 
teanola  Ice-cream  and  is  made  either  with ' or  without  eggs  : With 
Eggs^  by  boiling  the  new  milk,  reserving  a part  of  it,  in  custard  ket- 
tle and  adding  beaten  yolks  of  eggs  mixed  with  the  reserved  milk 
and  stirred  slowly  into  the  hot  milk ; let  cook  two  or  three  min- 
utes, add  sugar  and  in  fevr  moments  take  from  fire  and  strain  while 
hot,  as  above ; cool,  add  double  cream  and  flavoring,  or  add  only 
part  of  the  cream.  Set  custard  in  a cool  place  and  when  ready  to 
freeze  add  well-frothed  whites,  and  when  half  frozen,  the  reserved 
cream,  whipped.  Or  Without  Eggs^  by  boiling  the  milk,  as  above, 
and  adding  a rounded  tablespoon  flour  (if  cream  to  be  added  is  very 
thick,  use  less),  or  a little  less  of  corn-starch  or  arrowroot,  to  every 
quart  milk,  mixed  smoothly  with  a part  of  the  milk  ; let  cook  fifteen 
minutes,  then  add  sugar  and  cook  five  minutes,  stirring  all  the  time  ; 
remove  from  fire,  strain  and  put  in  a cool  place ; when  cold  and 
ready  to  freeze  add  part  of  the  cream  and  all  the  flavoring,  and 
when  half  frozen,  the  rest  of  the  cream,  whipped ; or  after  straining, 
let  cool  and  then  freeze  and  when  half  frozen  add  all  the  cream, 
whipped,  and  with  it  the  flavoring  as  directed  above.  If  cream 
does  not  whip  easily  add  beaten  white  of  an  egg.  Sugar  is  not 
added  to  the  whipped  cream.  In  any  of  the  methods  the  mixture 
should  be  placed  in  a bed  of  ice  to  cool  so  that  it  may  be  ice-cold 
when  put  in  freezer,  as  it  will  then  freeze  easier,  quick( 
and  require  less  ice.  It  is  also  well  when,poure( 
stand  five  or  ten  minutes  before  freezing  as  it  will 

thoroughly  chilled,  as  the  salt  with  the  ice  makes 
25 


r^nd  smoother 
can  to  let 
t ^n  surely  be 
intense 


386 


ICES  AND  ICE-CREAM. 


cold.  When  eggs  are  used,  strain  through  a sieve — they  beat  easier 
and  smoother  for  it;  if  yolks  and  whites  are  to  be  beaten  separately, 
strain  each  before  beating. 

Fruit  Ice-GreamSy  when  of  berries,  are  made  in  proportion  of  a 
quart  cream,  a quart  fruit  and  a pound  sugar,  allowing  the  berries 
to  stand  for  awhile  well  sprinkled  with  part  of  the  sugar,  mashing, 
straining  the  juice,  adding  the  rest  of  sugar  to  it,  and  stirring  till  a 
clear  syrup,  and  then  adding  to  the  ice-cold  mixture  just  before 
commencing  to  freeze,  or  beating  into  it  after  it  is  frozen,  which  is 
the  better  way.  In  the  latter  case  use  in  preparing  the  cream  or 
custard,  half  the  sugar  to  be  used  in  recipe  and  mix  the  rest  with 
the  fruit  juice  and  stir  in  when  frozen.  If  the  fruit  is  preferred  in 
the  cream,  cut  into  dice  the  firm-fleshed  fruits  such  as  the  pine-apple, 
apricot,  peach  and  plum,  mix  lightly  with  hall  the  sugar  and 
when  it  is  dissolved  mix  with  frozen  cream ; for  strawberries  and 
raspberries,  mash  or  chop  gently,  add  sugar  and  mix  with  the  frozen 
cream.  In  addition  to  this,  add  whipped  cream  and  sweetened 
whole  berries  just  as  the  cream  is  ready  to  serve,  in  the  propor- 
tion of  a cup  berries  and  a pint  of  whipped  cream  to  three  pints 
of  the  frozen  mixture.  Canned  berries  may  be  used  in  the  same 
way.  Or  a pint  mashed  berries  or  peaches,  cut  fine,  added  to  a quart 
ordinary  ice-cream,  when  frozen  makes  a delicious  Fruit  Ice-cream. 
In  either  case,  with  juice  or  fruit,  let  stand  in  freezer  till  ready  to 
serve,  or  put  in  molds  and  pack  as  directed  hereafter. 

In  flavoring  with  vanilla  the  vanilla  bean  may  be  used  by  split- 
ting in  two,  cutting  in  pieces  and  cooking  in  the  milk ; the  flavor- 
ing for  Almond  Cream  should  be  prepared  by  blanching  and  pound- 
ing the  kernels  to  a paste  with  rose  water,  using  arrowroot  for  thick- 
ening. Always  use  the  Princesse  Almond.  For  Cocoa-nut  Ice- 
cream^ grate  cocoa-nut  and  add  to  the  cream  and  sugar  just  before 
freezing.  The  milk  should  never  be  heated  for  pine-apple,  straw- 
berry, or  raspberry  cream.  It  is  often  desirable  to  be  able  to  make 
ice-creams  and  water-ices  of  the  summer  fruits  when  they  are  out  of 
season  and  at  same  time  retain  as  much  as  possible  of  their  ac- 
customed flavor  and  freshness,  also  to  avail  one’s  self  of  the  finest 
fruits  of  the  various  kinds  at  the  lowest  rates  obtainable  in  the 
height  of  the  season,  and  for  this  purpose  make  plentifully  of  Fruit 
Flavors,  as  given  in  Jams  and  Jellies.  Far  making  ice-cream  use 


ICES  AND  ICE-CREAM. 


387 


either  fine  granulated  sugar  or  white  sifted  sugar,  except  where  cream 
or  milk  is  not  cooked,  then  use  best  pulverized  sugar. 

Both  the  Lacteanola  and  Philadelphia,  being  eggless,  are  con- 
sidered better  adapted  to  be  used  with  fruit,  as  the  eggs  and  fruit 
flavors  are  not  thought  to  blend  well,  but  this  is  a matter  of  taste. 
The  eggless  creams  are  more  economical  where  one  has  plenty  of 
cream,  as  each  dozen  eggs  requires  half  pound  sugar  to  sweeten 
them  and  each  quart  cream  or  milk  half  pound,  also.  Any  propor- 
tion of  eggs  may  be  used  to  a quart  of  milk  or  cream,  using  sugar  in 
quantity  to  correspond,  viz  : for  three  eggs,  eighth  pound  sugar, 
making  with  the  half  pound  sugar  for  milk,  five-eighths  pound 
sugar. 

A freezer — White  Mountain,  Peerless  or  any  of  the  best  patent 
?;reezers — a wooden  paddle  made  of  hickory,  maple,  ash  or  oak,  a 
■fine  wire  sieve  or  crash  strainer,  seem  almost  a necessity  in  making  ices 
and  ice-creams,  and  there  are  also  many  other  articles  used  which  are 
given  in  Kitchen  Utensils ; of  course  one  can  make  them  without 
so  complete  an  outfit  but  the  process  is  more  tedious.  Put  ice  in  a 
coarse  coffee-sack,  pound  with  an  ax  or  mallet  until  some  lumps  are 
size  of  an  egg  and  most  of  them  as  small  as  a hickory-nut ; see  that 
the  freezer  is  properly  set  in  tub,  the  beater  in  the  socket,  the  cover 
secure,  and  a cloth  in  the  hole  and  tin  cup  inverted  over  it,  first  hav- 
ing put  on  cross-piece,  and  turned  the  crank  to  see  if  everything  is 
right ; now  place  around  it  a layer  of  ice  three  or  four  inches  thick, 
then  a thin  layer  of  salt — rock  salt  pounded  fine  or  the  common 
coarse  salt  is  best,  some  advise  sea  salt,  but  never  use  table  salt,  as 
it  causes  the  ice  to  melt  too  rapidly — then  ice  again,  then  salt, 
and  so  on  until  packed  full,  with  a layer  of  ice  last.  The  propor- 
tion should  be  about  three-fourths  ice  and  one-fourth  salt.  Pack 
ver}^  solid,  pounding  with  a broom-handle  or  stick,  then  remove  the 
cover  and  pour  in  the  ice-cold  preparation,  filling  only  two-thirds  full, 
leaving  room  for  expansion ; replace  cover  and  after  five  or  ten  min- 
utes pack  ice  down  again  and  begin  to  freeze,  turning  the  crank 
slowly  and  steadily  until  rather  difficult  to  turn ; open  can,  add 
whipped  cream,  beat  in  well  with  wooden  paddle,  cover,  and  again 
turn  till  difficult  to  turn  longer ; some  claim  this  last  turning  of  eight 
or  ten  minutes  should  be  as  rapid  as  possible.  Half  an  hour  will 
freeze  it,  although  the  make  of  freezer  and  quality  and  quantity  of 
cream  govern  the  time,  pure  cream  taking  the  longest.  Unless  dan- 


388 


ICES  AND  ICE-CREAM. 


ger  of  water  entering  can,  do  not  draw  off  while  freezing  as  the  in- 
tense cold  of  the  water  assists  greatly  in  freezing.  When  done,  brush 
ice  and  salt  from  and  remove  the  cover,  take  out  beater,  scrape  the 
cream  down  from  the  sides  of  freezer,  heat  well  several  minutes  with 
a wooden  paddle,  replace  the  cover,  fill  the  hole  with  a cork  or  a 
clean  cloth  and  over  this  invert  a tin  cup,  let  off  all  the  water,  pack 
again  with  ice  (using  salt  at  bottom  and  between  layers  but  none  at 
top  of  tub),  heap  ice  on  the  cover,  spread  over  it  a piece  of  carpet 
or  a thick  woolen  blanket  kept  for  this  purpose,  and  set  away  in  a 
cool  place  to  harden  two  or  three  hours,  or  until  needed.  Some  wet 
the  blanket  or  carpet  well  with  the  icy  brine  that  was  drawn  off  and 
after  an  hour  or  two  open  the  freezer,  scrape  down  and  beat  cream 
again,  and  pack  down  with  fresh  ice  and  salt.  In  very  warm  weathei 
it  may  be  necessary  to  renew  the  ice  and  salt  a second,  or  even  a 
third  time ; the  only  rule  is  that  as  often  as  the  brine  appears  a"! 
the  top,  causing  the  ice  to  float,  it  must  be  drawn  off,  and  the  tub 
repacked.  Keep  the  blanket  wet  with  the  brine ; the  evaporatio}7 
causes  intense  cold,  and  helps  to  keep  the  ice  from  wasting,  but  whe}} 
^‘brine  blanket”  is  used  cover  top  of  freezer  first  with  a dry  blanket, 
then  ice,  etc.  About  twenty-five  pounds  ice  is  necessary  for  two  or  three 
gallons  ice-cream  in  summer  time,  and  the  best  is  that  which  is  por^ 
ous  and  full  of  air  cells,  commonly  called  “snow  ice.”  Snow  itself 
is  also  an  excellent  freezing  material  and  as  it  is  often  desirable  to 
be  able  to  make  ices  in  the  winter  season,  when  there  is  no  ice  in 
the  house,  if  there  be  snow  upon  the  ground  it  makes  an  excellent 
substitute.  It  needs  only  to  be  packed  down  firmly  in  the  freezing 
tub,  and  enough  water  added  to  make  a thick  mush ; then  put  in 
the  salt,  and  freeze  as  usual.  Large  freezers  require  much  less  ice  an  cl 
salt,  in  proportion  to  their  contents,  than  small  ones ; for  a gallon 
freezer  use  about  ten  pints  pounded  ice,  and  three  of  salt.  If  a 
larger  proportion  of  salt  is  used  than  one-fourth,  the  cream  will  freeze 
sooner  but  will  not  be  so  smooth  and  rich,  and  some  only  take  one-fifth 
salt.  Do  not  let  a grain  of  salt  or  a drop  of  hrine  get  into  the  cream. 
For  evening  use,  cream  should  be  cooked  in  the  morning,  cooled  and 
frozen  by  mid-day.  If  wanted  at  the  noon  meal,  cook  previous 
evening,  cool  overnight,  and  freeze  early  next  morning,  or  it  may 
be  cooked  very  early  in  morning.  It  needs  several  hours  to  harden 
and  ripen ; newly  frozen  cream  is  always  somewhat  mushy,  and 
wanting  in  body  and  flavor.  The  creams  produced  by  this  method 


ICES  AND  ICE-CEEAM. 


389 


faithfully  and  skillfully  applied,  will  he  firm,  smooth  and  fine- 
grained like  the  best  butter  or  jelly.  Some  freeze  in  a warm  place, 
believing  that  the  more  rapid  the  melting  of  the  ice  the  quicker  the 
cream  freezes.  If  cream  begins  to  melt  while  serving,  beat  up  well 
from  the  bottom  with  the  long  wooden  paddle. 

After  the  last  beating  and  before  covering  again  with  ice,  if 
wished  molded,  fill  cream  solidly  in  every  part  of  mold,  that  there 
may  be  no  air  spaces,  working  up  and  down  with  a spoon,  which 
presses  the  cream  in  every  part  and  also  lightens  it ; heap  it  a lit- 
tle above  the  brim,  press  the  cover  down  hard,  bind  a buttered  cloth 
over  the  j oint,  or  use  buttered  or  oiled  paper  put  on  with  paste  or  gum 
tragacanth,  bury  it  in  a pan  or  tub  of  ice  and  salt  and  cover  with  a 
/I'lanket.  If  it  be  a figure  or  design  in  two  parts,  fill  each  half  of 
7iiold  a little  more  than  full ; the  excess  squeezes  out  on  shutting 
it.  Some  cover  top  of  cream  in  mold  with  thick  white  paper. 
When  ready  to  serve,  wash  mold  with  cold  water  to  remove  the 
brine ; take  off  cloth,  and  wipe  mold  dry,  lift  off  cover,  turn  mold 
over  on  a plate,  and  if  room  is  warm,  it  will  slip  off  the  cream  in  a 
few  seconds.  It  is  better  not  to  use  warm  water  on  the  mold ; it 
causes  the  cream  to  melt  and  run  down  the  surface  in  unsightly 
streams.  The  variety  of  molds  is  very  large,  from  the  plain  pyra- 
mid to  the  most  elaborate  combinations  of  figures,  animals,  flowers 
and  fruits,  corresponding  to  the  flavor,  as  oranges  for  orange  ice-cream, 
etc.,  and  new  designs  and  devices  are  brought  out  ever}^  year.  The 
Pyramid  is  made  of  a great  many  styles,  both  plain  and  fluted,  and 
is  useful  for  center-pieces,  either  of  one  or  of  several  varieties  and 
colors  of  creams  or  water-ices,  put  in  layers.  The  Brick  is  a plain, 
oblong  mold,  with  straight,  slightly  tapering  sides.  It  is  made  of 
Several  sizes,  from  a pint  to  two  quarts.  The  Cabinet,  so  called  from 
its  being  used  for  Cabinet  puddings,  is  oval  in  shape,  about  nine 
inches  long,  six  inches  wide,  and  four  inches  deep,  and  contains  two 
quarts.  It  is  a very  convenient  mold  for  Tutti  Frutti,  blanc-mange, 
all  kinds  of  boiled  puddings,  and  many  sorts  of  cake.  A small  cab- 
inet mold,  holding  enough  to  serve  one  guest,  is  four  inches  long, 
two  inches  wide  and  two  inches  deep.  All  these  molds  have  tightly 
fitting  covers  and  tapering  sides,  to  allow  their  contents  to  be  easily 
turned  out.  In  the  final  packing  of  salt  and  ice,  and  when  molds  are 
packed,  if  rock  salt  is  used,  have  it  in  small  lumps  size  of  a pea. 

The  directions  for  making  Self-freezing  Ice-cream  with  ar 


390 


ICES  AND  ICE-CREAM. 


old  fashioned  freezer  without  patent  inside,  are  as  follows  : After 
preparing  the  freezer  as  above  and  placing  the  cream  or  custard  in 
can,  remove  lid  carefully,  and  with  a long  wooden  paddle  beat  the 
cream  like  batter  steadily  for  about  five  or  six  minutes.  Replace 
lid,  pack  two  inches  of  pounded  ice  over  it,  spread  above  all  several 
folds  of  blanket  or  carpet,  and  leave  it  untouched  for  an  hour ; at 
the  end  of  that  time  remove  the  ice  from  above  the  freezer-lid,  wipe 
ofi  carefully  and  open  the  freezer.  Its  sides  will  be  lined  with  a 
thick  layer  of  frozen  cream.  Displace  this  with  the  paddle,  work- 
ing every  part  of  it  loose ; beat  up  cream  again  firmly  and  vigorous!}^ 
for  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes,  until  it  is  a smooth,  half-congealed 
paste.  The  perfection  of  the  ice-cream  depends  upon  the  thorough- 
ness of  the  beating  at  this  point.  Put  on  cover  again,  pack  in  more 
ice  and  salt,  turn  off  brine,  cover  freezer  entirely  with  ice,  and  spread 
the  carpet  over  all.  At  the  end  of  an  hour  or  two  again  turn  off 
brine  and  add  fresh  ice  and  salt,  but  do  not  open  the  freezer  for  two 
hours  more.  At  that  time  take  the  freezer  from  the  ice,  open  it, 
wrap  a towel  wet  in  hot  water  about  the  lower  part  and  turn  out  a 
solid  column  of  ice-cream,  close  grained,  firm  and  delicious.  Any  of 
the  recipes  for  ice-cream  may  be  frozen  in  this  way.  Or  they  may  be 
frozen  without  any  freezer,  by  simply  placing  in  a covered  tin  pail, 
setting  latter  in  an  ordinary  wooden  bucket,  and  proceeding  as 
above  directed  for  Self-freezing  Ice-cream,  always  remembering  to- 
not  much  more  than  half  fill  can  or  pail,  as  the  action  of  cream 
against  sides  of  can  when  it  is  beaten  hastens  the  freezing. 

A delicate  w^ay  of  serving  ice-cream  is  to  place  upon  it  a spoon 
of  whipped  cream,  and  the  most  elaborate  is  to  enclose  it  in  me* 
xingues  or  kisses  (see  Confectionery).  Fill  the  shells  with  whatever 
ice-cream  or  other  ices  prepared,  put  together  by  twos,  thus  forming 
a large  egg,  tie  it  around  with  a ribbon  of  suitable  color,  and  send  to 
table.  When  several  kinds  are  served  at  one  time,  they  are  desig- 
nated by  ribbons  of  the  same  color  as  the  creams  or  ices ; white  for 
almond  or  vanilla,  brown  for  chocolate,  pale  and  deep  yellow  for 
lemon, pine-apple  and  orange,  pink  for  strawberry,  green  for  pistachio, 
fawn  for  peach  and  apricot,  and  so  for  all  the  others.  Sometimes, 
after  filling,  the  edges  of  the  shells  are  lightly  touched  with  the 
soft  part  that  was  removed,  to  make  them  stick  together.  For  Mar- 
bled Meringues^  fill  with  two  or  more  creams  of  different  colofs,  as 
for  example,  vanilla  in  one-half  and  chocolate  in  the  other,  or  straw- 


ICES  AND  ICE-CREAM. 


891 


berry  and  orange,  lemon  and  pistachio,  peach  and  almond,  and  any 
other  combination  fancy  may  dictate.  A pleasing  contrast  also  is 
furnished  by  filling  one-half  with  ice-cream  and  the  other  with  water- 
ice,  or  one  with  a vanity  and  the  other  with  frozen  fruit.  The  ribbons 
should  be  double-faced  and  of  shades  to  correspond  with  and  indi- 
cate the  contents ; or  take  plain  ribbons  of  the  two  colors  required, 
stitch  two  pieces,  one  of  each  color,  together  at  ends,  each  half  the  en- 
tire length  wished,  and  tie  around  the  meringue,  finishing  in  a bow- 
knot,  one-half  of  the  bow  thus  being  of  each  color.  Angel  or 
Cream  Cake,  Cream  Sandwiches,  White  Lady  Fingers,  or  Centennial 
Drops  are  nice  served  with  Ice-cream. 

For  freezing  small  molds  and  also  Bisque  or  Biscuit  Glace 
have  a large  tin  mold,  either  square  or  rectangular ; fill  this  with 
little  paper  cases,  which  must  fit  the  tin  mold  exactly  in  every  part. 
These  little  cases  may  be  made  round,  oval,  oblong,  square,  or  as  little 
baskets,  and  about  the  size  of  a patty  pan,  of  smooth,  heavy  white 
paper  or  light  card-board,  and  a frill  of  lace  paper  put  around  the 
edge  gives  a pretty  effect ; fill  with  the  mixture,  and  cover  mold  with 
a hermetically  fitting  top.  In  the  bottom  of  a wooden  box,  made 
for  the  purpose  eight  inches  larger  each  way,  with  a cover  and 
handles,  put  about  six  or  eight  inches  of  pounded  ice  and  coarse 
salt  in  alternate  layers ; in  this  place  tin  mold  of  filled  cases  with 
another  eight  inches  of  ice  and  salt ; cover  the  whole  with  a thick, 
heavy  cloth,  or  blanket,  and  let  stand  six  or  eight  hours.  The  box 
containing  ice  should  have  a small  plugged  hole,  to  allow  escape  of 
water  from  melted  ice.  When  mold  is  taken  from  ice,  wipe  well 
before  opening,  to  prevent  any  salt-water  getting  in.  Or  a more 
elaborate  square  tin  box  is  made  with  shelves,  with  feet  at  each  cor- 
ner to  support  them,  and  called  a “cave,”  and  when  shelves  are 
filled  and  placed  in,  one  above  the  other,  is  also  packed  in  the  outer 
box  with  ice  and  salt.  Then  there  is  a patent  cave  that  is  round 
like  an  ice-cream  freezer ; to  fill,  put  shelf  into  can,  packed  as  for 
ice-cream,  cover  with  cases,  then  another  shelf  and  so  on  till  all  are 
added ; put  on  lid,  press  tightly  down,  bind  the  joint  like  any  mold, 
cover  with  pounded  ice,  then  with  a woolen  cloth  or  blanket,  then 
ice  and  salt  and  the  “brine  blanket.”  Let  stand  as  ice-cream,  draw- 
ing off  water  and  repacking  if  necessary.  There  should  be  a hole, 
with  a wooden  plug,  in  the  side  of  ice-tub  just  above  bottom  the 
same  as  in  an  ice-cream  freezer.  Any  one  having  the  latter  may 


892 


ICES  AND  ICE-CREAM. 


have  tin  shelves  made  to  fit  the  can,  with  three  snpporte  or  feet  two 
or  three  inches  high,  and  if  wished  an  extra  cover  without  any 
opening  in  top,  although  with  that  plugged  and  carefully  protected 
it  will  not  be  necessary ; remove  beater,  put  in  shelves,  fill,  cover, 
bind  and  cover  with  ice  as  above.  In  caring  for  patent  ice-cream 
freezers,  the  cogs  should  be  oiled  occasionally  and  every  part  of 
the  can,  beater,  etc.,  should  be  well  cleaned  and  dried  on  top  the 
stove  or  in  sun  before  putting  away. 

In  making  recipes  refer  to  table  of  weights  and  measures  for 
relative  proportions  of  pounds,  pints,  teacups,  gills,  etc.  Whipped 
cream  may  be  added  when  cream  is  half  frozen,  or  later,  just  before 
it  is  packed  for  hardening,  and  the  quantity  given  in  the  following 
recipes  is  measured  before  whipping.  In  all  recipes  where  only  cream 
is  used,  part  new  milk  may  be  substituted  in  any  proportion  wished, 
using  with  it  the  arrowroot,  corn-starch  or  flour  in  proportion  as 
given,  remembering  that  the  milk  must  always  be  cooked  with  the 
sugar  and  thickening,  strained,  cooled  and  then  the  cream  added ; 
but  when  cream  alone  is  used  it  may  be  cooked  or  not  as  liked. 
Always  use  a custard  kettle  and  strain  all  mixtures  while  hot.  In 
giving  proportions  of  ingredients  in  different  recipes  where  cream 
and  milk  are  used  the  term  liquid  will  be  given  to  cover  both, 
(bustard  ice-cream  or  Neapolitan  is  considered  by  some  preferable 
for  Caramel,  Chocolate,  Coffee,  Lemon,  Vanilla  and  the  different  nut 
creams,  and  the  Philadelphia  and  Lacteanola,  without  eggs,  as 
already  suggested,  better  adapted  to  fruit  flavors,  but  where  the  light- 
ness given  by  eggs  is  wished  without  the  flavor,  the  wLites  alone 
can  be  used  and  added  when  cream  is  partially  frozen.  It  is 
better  to  use  earthen  bowls,  crocks,  jars,  etc.,  to  hold  any  of  the 
milk,  cream  or . fruit  preparations  while  in  process  of  making  ice- 
creams, and  we  feel  like  repeating  instructions  for  adding  fruit  and 
juices,  as  one  will  be  fully  repaid  for  the  extra  trouble.  Always 
add  juice  when  cream  is  partly  frozen,  and  especially  is  this  true  of 
very  acid  fruit,  as  currants,  lemons,  etc.,  for  it  is  apt  to  curdle  the 
cream  if  added  before  freezing;  if  fruit  is  used,  chop  and  udidijiist 
Ijefore  serving^  or  if  to  be  molded,  when  put  in  mold.  In  winter, 
when  fresh  fruit  is  not  obtainable,  a little  jam  may  be  substituted 
for  it ; it  should  be  melted  and  worked  through  a sieve  before  being 
added,  and  if  the  color  should  not  be  good  a little  prepared  cochi- 
neal may  be  put  in  to  improve  its  appearance.  In  recipes  where 


ICES  AND  ICE-CREAM. 


393 


candied  fruits  are  used  the  French  are  of  course  the  best,  but  one 
can  dry  and  prepare  them  at  home,  and  if  either  are  not  obtainable 
a substitute  can  be  had  by  using  any  firm-fleshed,  home-made  pre- 
serves, such  as  cherries,  strawberries,  pears,  peaches,  pine-apples  or 
quinces.  Drain  off  syrup,  chop  into  dice,  roll  in  pulverized  sugar 
and  stir  into  cream,  as  above.  In  vanilla  flavoring  some  use  the 
bean,  a small  bean  to  a quart,  others  heaping  tablespoon  powder, 
others  half  ounce  vanilla  sugar,  while  most  use  half  tablespoon  ex- 
tract to  above  proportion.  The  preparing,  flavoring,  molding  and 
serving  of  ice-creams  can  be  so  varied,  according  to  the  taste  of  the 
kitchen-queen,  that  by  carefully  reading  directions  and  recipes  she 
can  soon  make  any  combinations  wished,  and  by  adding  ^‘here  a 
little  and  there  a little”  create  new  a,nd  delicious  flavors. 


Almond  Ice-cream.— Qodk  two  quarts  cream,  the  prepared 
almonds  and  three  teacups  sugar  in  custard  kettle,  strain,  cool  and 
freeze  ; prepare  almonds  as  follows  : blanch  and  rub  to  a paste,  with 
four  tablespoons  each  sugar  and  cream  reserved  from  the  above 
quantities,  half  pound  shelled  almonds  and  a few  drops  rose  water. 
Add  when  half  frozen  one  quart  cream,  whipped,  teaspoon  almond 
extract  and  half  vanilla.  For  Almond  Caramel^  put  the  blanched 
almonds  in  oven,  roast  quickly  to  a yellow  brown  and  then  prepare 
and  add  as  above,  adding  half  teaspoon  caramel  in  place  of  almond 
extract.  For  Pistachio  Ice-cream  make  as  above,  using  pistachio 
nuts  instead  of  almonds,  with  a heaping  teaspoon  Spinach  Coloring  to 
give  a fine  color.  If  wished  with  eggs,  use  eggs  and  more  sugar  in 
proportion  as  given  in  general  directions.  Some  use  only  two  ounces 
shelled  nuts  to  each  ((uart  cream.  Any  Nut  Ice-cream  can  be 
made  in  same  way  except  that  walnuts  and  hickory  nuts  are  not 
blanched. 

Arrowroot  Ice-cream. — Boil  tv/o  quarts  milk,  add  half  pint  arrow- 
root  mixed  smooth  with  pait  of  the  milk  and  two  pounds  sugar; 
when  cold  add  t^vo  quarts  cream,  whites  of  six  eggs,  tablespoon 
any  flavoring  and  freeze. 

Boston  Ice-cream. — Make  a boiled  custard  of  three  pints  cream 
three  teacups  suga,r  and  yolks  of  ten  eggs  ; strain,  cool,  freeze  and  add 
teacup  crumbs  of  steamed  brown  bread,  prepared  by  drying,  grating 
and  sifting,  pint  cream,  whipped,  and  v^ell-frothed  whites,  and  pack 
as  directed.  This  can  be  made  without  eggs,  and  also  by  cooking 
part  of  crumbs  with  custard,  giving  rather  more  body  to  cream. 

Buttermilk  Ice-cream. — Strain  buttermilk  through  athin  sloth, 
so  as  to  remove  all  lumps  and  particles  of  butter,  add  sugar  until 
very  sweet  and  flavor  with  vanilla.  Freeze  as  directed. 


394 


ICES  AND  ICE-CREAM. 


Caramel  Ice-cream. — One  and  a half  pounds  brown  sugar, 
three  quarts  cream,  one  pint  boiling  milk.  Put  sugar  in  an  iron 
frying-pan  on  fire  and  stir  until  it  is  a liquid,  stir  it  in  the  milk, 
strain,  and  when  cool  add  to  cream.  Whipping  all  or  part  of  the 
cream  makes  it  more  delicious.  Or  to  any  of  the  cooked  founda- 
tions or  preparations  add  only  half  the  sugar  to  the  milk  or  cream 
and  make  a caramel  as  above  with  the  rest,  add  to  boiled  mixture, 
strain,  cool  and  freeze.  The  flavor  may  be  varied  by  browning  the 
sugar  more  or  less. 

Chestnut  Ice-cream. — The  native  chestnut  may  be  used,  but  is 
not  as  fine  as  the  Italian  variety.  Boil,  and  to  a quarter  pound  pulp 
add  two  tablespoons  sugar,  and  four  of  cream,  rub  to  a smooth 
paste  and  add  it  to  three  pints  cream,  three  teacups  sugar  and 
twelve  eggs  ; cook,  strain,  cool,  freeze,  and  add,  just  before  packing, 
a pint  cream,  whipped,  and  juice  of  one  orange. 


Fancy  Ice-cream. 


Chocolate  Ice-cream. — Scald  one  pint  new  milk,  add  by  de 
grees  three-quarters  pound  sugar,  two  eggs,  and  five  tablespoons 
grated  chocolate,  rubbed  smooth  in  a little  milk.  ^ Beat  well  for,a 
moment  or  two,  place  over  fire  and  heat  until  it  thickens,  stir- 
ring constantly,  set  off,  add  a hablespoon  of  thin,  dissolved  gelatine, 
and  when  cold,  place  in  freezer;  when  it  begins  to  set,  add  a quart  of 
rich  cream,  half  of  it  well  whipped.  To  make  a 
mold  of  chocolate  and  vanilla,  freeze  in  separate 
freezers,  divide  a mold  through  the  center  with 
card-board,  fill  each  division  with  a different 
cream,  and  set  mold  in  ice  and  salt  for  an  hour  or 
more.  For  that  delicious  preparation,  Chocolate  Fruit  Ice-cream.^ 
add  when  cream  is  frozen  French  candied  fruit,  or  a coffee-cup  preserv- 
ed peaches,  or  any  other  preserves,  prepared  as  directed.  For  Spiced 
Chocolate  Ice-cream.,  cook  three  pints  cream  and  two  teacups  sugar; 
prepare  spice  by  pouring  over  three-quarters  teaspoon  best  pulver- 
ized cinnamon,  seven  tablespoons  boiling  water  and  let  stand  on 
back  of  stove,  (must  not  boil),  twenty  minutes ; pour  off  clear  liquid 
and  add  to  it  quarter  i^jound  grated  chocolate,  or  less  if  not  wished 
highly  flavored.  Add  this  to  the  hot  cream,  strain,  cool  and  freeze 
as  directed.  When  half  frozen  add  one  pint  cream,  whipped  and  fla- 
vored with  half  teaspoon  vanilla.  Delicious  served  in  glasses  or 
dishes  covered  with  tablespoon  whipped  cream  or  meringue,  also 
very  dainty  molded  in  individual  molds  and  surrounded  with  whip- 
ped cream.  For  Chocolate  Caramel,  m.ake  as  above,  using  four 
tablespoons  caramel  in  place  of  cinnamon,  adding  it  with  the  whip- 
ped cream  and  vanilla.  Or  to  the  above  hot  cream  mixture  add  a 
chocolate  paste  made  as  follows  : Stir  in  a dish,  set  in  pan  of  hot 
water,  six  tablespoons  grated  chocolate,  two  tablespoons  each  sugar 
and  boiling  water,  till  smooth  and  glossy ; adding  whipped  white  of 
an  egg  just  before  removing  from  fire,  is  an  improvement.  After  add- 


ICES  AND  ICE-CREAM. 


395 


ing  to  mixture,  strain,  cool,  freeze  and  finish  as  above,  adding  whip- 
ped cream  and  flavoring.  For  Chocolate  Custard^  to  any  two 
quarts  custard  preparation  add  the  above  paste  and  one  table- 
spoon dissolved  gelatine  and  proceed  as  above.  For  Chocolate  Moss^ 
mix  one  quart  double  cream,  whipped  to  a stiff  froth,  and  drained 
on  sieve,  with  half  pound  sugar  and  three-quarters  tablespoon  vanilla. 
Meantime  have  two  squares  Baker’s  chocolate  melted  by  plac- 
ing in  a small  tin  basin  over  a teakettle  boiling  water.  Stir  choco- 
late carefully  into  the  whipped  cream.  Pour  into  freezer,  taking 
out  beater,  or  in  a pail  and  freeze  without  stirring.  A¥hen  wished 
for  the  table,  dip  a cloth  in  boiling  water  and  wrap  about  the  freezer 
until  the  cream  slides  out,  or  better,  let  freezer  stand  in  warm  room 
for  a little  while.  Slice  and  it  looks  like  variegated  moss.  Two 
tablespoons  gelatine,  soaked  in  cold  water  two  or  three  hours,  may 
be  added  to  the  whipped  cream.  Five  tablespoons  grated  choco' 
iate  to  each  quart  liquid,  in  any  of  the  above  recipes,  gives  a pleas " 
ant  flavored  ice-cream. 

Cocoa-nut  Ice-cream. — Cook  one  pint  milk,  three  eggs,  grated 
rind  of  one  lemon  and  a teacup  and  a half  sugar  in  custard  kettle ; 
when  thickened,  strain,  cool,  freeze,  and  when  half  frozen  add  cup 
grated  fresh  cocoa-nut,  prepared  as  candied  fruits  in  Cabinet  Ice- 
cream, -one  quart  cream,  whipped,  and  juice  of  one  lemon.  Des- 
sicated  cocoa-nut  can  be  used  without  any  preparation. 

Custard  Ice-cream. — Beat  yolks  of  five  eggs, add  eight  well  round- 
ed tablespoons  white  sugar ; boil  a quart  milk,  stir  with  it  one  table- 
spoon corn-starch  (previously  dissolved  in  a little  cold  milk) ; when 
cooked  until  as  cream,  cool,  add  one  quart  cream,  the  eggs  and 
sugar;  season  with  lemon  or  vanilla  and  freeze.  Plain  custard  is 
also  good  frozen.  Sliced  peaches  greatly  improve  this  or  any 
frozen  custard,  added  just  before  serving  the  cream. 

Codec  Ice-cream. — Grind  very  fine  a quarter  pound  coffee, 
naif  each  Mocha  and  Java,  or  use  the  pulverised,  taking  only  half  as 
much.  Put  one  quart  cream  on  in  custard  kettle ; when  hot  add 
coffee  and  cook  ten  or  fifteen  minutes,  strain,  add  pint  more  cream, 
yolks  of  twelve  eggs  and  three  teacups  sugar ; cook,  strain,  cool, 
freeze  and  when  half  frozen  add  pint  cream,  v/hipped,  and  also  the 
whites ; or  where  the  made  coffee  is  used,  scald  a pint  milk  and  stir 
in  a tablespoon  arroAvroot,  mixed  smooth  in  a little  cold  cream,  add 
two  cups  sugar  and  cup  very  strong  clear  coffee  sweetened  to  taste  ; 
when  cold  stir  in  quart  cream,  whipped,  and  freeze  ; or  for  Whipped 
Coifee  Ice-cream,  whip  one  quart  double  cream,  add  cup  each 
sugar  and  strong  black  coffee,  whip  to  a froth,  pile  in  goblets,  freeze 
and  serve.  In  winter  time  can  be  placed  out  doors  or  in  summer 
time  in  Cave  as  described.  For  White  CoiFee  Ice-cream,  pour  one 
quart  boiling  cream  over  half  pound  freshly  roasted  whole  Mocha 


396 


ICES  AND  ICE-CREAM. 


and  Java,  half  and  half;  place  in  custard  kettle  and  keep  on  back 
of  range  for  an  hour  or  so,  where  water  in  outer  kettle  will  keep  hot, 
not  boil ; strain,  return  to  inner  kettle  and  add  yolks  of  twelve  eggs, 
beaten  smooth  with  teacup  and  half  sugar ; when  it  begins  to  thicken, 

take  off,  strain,  cool,  freeze,  and  when  half 
done  add  pint  cream,  whipped,  and  if 
wanted  very  delicious  the  well-frothed 
whites  may  be  used ; if  so,  add  with  the 
Coffee  ice-cream.  creaiii,  aod  use  iu  the  custard  a half  teacup 

more  sugar.  Mold  in  melon  mold  and  serve  surrounded  by  whip- 
ped cream.  Tea  Ice-CTeam  is  made  as  above,  using  one  ounce 
tea. 

Eggless  Ice-creani. — One  quart  cream, two  quarts  new  milk,  scant 
half  teacup  flour,  or  two  ta-blespoons,  and  one  and  a half  pounds  gran- 
ulated sugar,  or  three  teacups ; put  three  pints  milk  in  custard 
kettle,  or  in  pail,  set  in  kettle  of  water ; when  hot  stir  in  flour, 
previously  mixed  smooth  in  one  pint  new  milk;  let  cook  ten 
or  fifteen  minutes,  stirring  once  or  tvfice,  then  add  sugar  and 
stir  constantly  for  a few  minutes  till  it  is  well  dissolved.  Remove 
and  strain  while  hot  through  a crash  strainer.  When  cold  add  one 
pint  cream  and  place  in  freezer.  When  half  frozen,  take  a wooden 
paddle,  scrape  down  sides  and  stir  in  well  one  pint  double  cream, 
previously  whipped  and  flavored  with  one  and  a half  tablespoons  va- 
nilla, put  on  cover  and  pack  as  directed.  This  makes  one  gallon  and 
is  sufficient  for  two  dozen  dishes  : or  take  in  all  three  pints  new  milk, 
one  and  a quarter  pints  cream,  one  tablespoon  flour,  two  teacups 
sugar,  and  one  tablespoon  vanilla,  and  prepare  as  above,  reserving 
and  whi23ping  all  instead  of  part  of  cream  and  adding  when  half 
frozen.  This  makes  sufficient  for  sixteen  or  eighteen  dishes  and 
any  proportion  maybe  taken  for  a less  number.  For  Eig  Ee-cveain 
two  teacups  figs  cut  fine  may  be  added  with  the  whipped  cream. 
For  Almond  Ice-cream^  to  each  quart  liquid,  milk  or  cream,  usefouj 
ounces  shelled  almonds  preparecl  as  follows  : Blanch  and  pound  tc 
a paste  with  half  pint  cream  or  milk  and  four  tablespoons  sugar,  rO' 
served  from  above  quantities  and  a few  drops  rose  water  to  prevent 
oiling  of  nuts;  add  to  milk  in  custard  kettle  and  cook  with  rest  of 
sugar ; finish  as  above  and  add  with  whipped  cream  half  teaspoon 
almond  extract  and  quarter  teaspoon  vanilla;  or  if  a, more  decided 
nutty  taste  is  wished  add  the  nuts  with  the  flavoring;  or  for  ('ar- 
amel  Cream  add  in  proportion  of  two  tablepoons  caramel,  made  as 
directed,  and  a quarter  teaspoon  vanilla  to  each  quart  liquid 
when  preparation  is  half  frozen.  For  Eilbert  Ice-cream^  make 
as  the  Almond  and  Almond  Caramel. 

Any  of  the  recipes  with  fruit,  nut  or  any  flavor  where  all  cream 
is  used  can  be  made  as  above,  using  same  ])roportions  of  liquid, 
only  two-thirds  new  milk  to  one-third  cream,  or  half  and  half,  or  any 
proportion  wished,  preparing  milk  as  above,  and  adding  other  in- 


ICES  AND  ICE-CREAM, 


397 


gredients  as  in  recipe.  In  shipping  cream  for  ice-cream,  if  double 
cream  is  used,  it  is  not  always  necessary  to  drain  on  sieve,  as-  it  will 
all  whip  stiff  enough  to  be  used. 

Gelatine  Ice-cream. — Soak  one  half  package  of  Cox’s  gelatine 
in  a pint  new  milk ; boil  two  pints  new  milk,  and  pint  and  a third 
sugar,  strain,  add  the  soaked  gelatine,  stirring  well ; when  cold  add 
one  quart  cream,  tablespoon  vanilla,  and  freeze ; or  reserA^e  half  of 
cream,  whip  and  add  as  directed. 

Ginger  Bruise  four  ounces  preserved  ginger  in  a 

mortar  or  bowl,  using  potato  masher,  add  tivo-thirds  pint  poAvdered 
sugar,  and  one  pint  cream;  mix  aa’cII,  strain,  freeze  and  when  ready 
to  pack  add  two  ounces  preserved  ginger,  cut  in  dice,  and  juice  of 
one  lemon  and  pint  cream,  whipped. 

Harlequin  Ice-cream. — This  is  any  three  ice-creams  wished 
arranged  in  layers,  as  illustrated,  in  the  Brick  mold  ; vanilla,  pistachio 

and  strawberry  are  used  together,  or  choco- 
late, strawberry  and  vanilla,  or  almond, 
or  any  nut  or  fruit  cream,  or  a Avater-ice 
is  used  for  one  layer.  The  mold  is  then 
bound  and  packed  as  directed, 

Hichory-nut  Ice-cream. — A pound  hickory-nut  kernels,  two 
cups  sugar,  quart  cream.  Pick  over  the  kernels  carefully  for  pieces 
of  shell,  then  pound  in  a mortar  AAutha  little  sugar  and  Avater  added. 
Put  tAVo  tablespoons  of  the  sugar  over  fire  AAuthout  Avater,  stir  con- 
stantly till  melted  and  broAvned,  add  a little  water  to  dissolve  it, 
then  add  to  cream  AAuth  the  sugar  and  nut  paste  and  freeze. 

Jam  Ice-cream. — Prepare  one  pound  of  jam  as  directed,  add 
me  and  a quarter  pints  cream,  mix  well  and  strain,  freeze,  and 
when  partly  frozen  add  juice  cf  one  lemon.  Apricoi,  Raspberry,  etc., 
are  A^ery  nice  made  in  this  Avay. 

Kentucky  Ice-crea^m. — Make  a half  gallon  rich  boiled  custard, 
sweeten  to  taste,  add  tAvo  tablespoons  gelatine  dissolved  in  a half 
cup  cold  milk ; let  the  custaud  cool,  put  it  in  freezer,  and  as  soon  as 
it  begins  to  freeze  add  one  quart  cream,  whipped,  and  just  before 
seiwing  one  pound  raisins  and  one  pint  straAvberry  preserves. 
Blanched  almonds  or  grated  cocoa-nut  are  additions.  Some  pre- 
fer currants  to  raisins,  and  some  also  add  citron  chopped  fine. 

Italian  Ice-cream,. — Whip  three  pints  cream  and  add  to  it 
three-quarters  pound  best  pulverized  sugar  and  tablespoon  vanilla ; 
freeze,  and  Avhen  frozen  and  ready  for  packing  stir  carefully  into  it 
the  folloAving  : Half  teacup  granulated  sugar,  cooked  in  quarter  pint 
water  till  it  “threads”  Avhen  a little  is  taken  up  on  a spoon,  or  will 
])ecome  as  soft  Avax  Avh§n  tested  in  cold  Avater ; then  pour  it  slowly 


398 


ICES  AND  ICE-CREAM. 


over  the  well-frothed  whites  of  two  eggs,  pouring  with  the  left  hand 
and  beating  constantly  with  the  right,  as  in  making  Boiled  Icing, 
till  it  is  cold.  After  stirring  into  frozen  cream,  cover  and  pack  as 
directed,  or  the  cream  may  be  cooked  instead  of  whipped.  For 
Italian  Custard  Ice-Gveam^  cook  the  cream  with  two  teacups  gran- 
ulated sugar,  yolks  of  nine  eggs  ; strain,  cool,  add  the  vanilla,  freeze 
and  finish  as  above.  For  Whipped  Ice-cream^  whip  quart  cream, 
add  two-thirds  pint  pulverized  sugar  and  half  tablespoon  vanilla  ; 
freeze  as  directed.  Any  other  flavoring  may  be  used. 

Lemon  Ice-cream. — To  two  quarts  sour  cream  that  has  soured 
quickly,  take  one  of  sweet  cream,  pound  and  a half  sugar,  the  juice 
and  rind  of  one  lemon ; cut  the  rind  thin,  and  steep  it  ten  or  fifteen 
minutes  in  half  a pint  of  the  sweet  cream  over  boiling  water  ; strain, 
cool,  and  add  to  the  rest,  and  freeze  ; or  make  a custard  of  one  quart 
cream,  yolks  of  six  eggs  and  three  and  a half  teacups  sugar,  (reserving 
six  tablespoons,  twoforiueparingthe  zest,  as  in  Saratoga  Ice-cream, 
and  four  to  mix  with  the  juice,  obtained  as  directed,  of  three  lemons 
and  one  small  orange  ;)let  boil,  strain,  cool  and  freeze  : To  grated 
rind  of  twn  lemons,  being  careful  not  to  grate  any  of  wdiite  pith,  ai 
it  is  bitter,  add  the  prepared  juice,  let  stand  an  hour  or  two,  strain  and 
add  with  pint  cream,  whipped,  and  the  well  beaten  whites,  to  the  cus- 
tard when  half  frozen ; or  make  as  above,  omitting  juice  and  rind 
and  flavor  with  tablespoon  lemon  extract. 

Maxaroon  Ice-cream. — One  and  one-half  pints  cream,  half  tea- 
cup dry  macaroons,  grated  and  sifted,  teacup  white  sugar,  yellow  rind 
of  one  orange,  grated,  and  the  juice  of  two.  Whip  cream,  add  sugar, 
freeze,  and  when  half  frozen  add  macaroons  and  the  orange  juice  and 
rind ; or  to  any  half  frozen  preparation,  in  proportion  of  teacup 
or  half  pound  sugar  to  each  quart  cream  or  milk,  add  the  sifted 
macaroons  and  if  almond  macaroons  add  six  drops  extract  almond 
to  same.  For  Macaroon  Caramel^  first  roast  macaroons  to  a yello\^ 
brown  and  add  a few  drops  caramel,  and  for  Triple  Ice-cream 
make  as  above  and  add  tablespoon  each  sponge  cake,  macaroon  and 
mermgue  crumbs,  prepared  by  grating  and  sifting  when  dry.  Flavor 
with  teaspoon  and  a half  nectarine  extract.  Serve  in  the  little 
cases,  first  placing  them  in  the  “cave”  as  described. 

New  York  Ice-cream. — Boil  quart  thin  cream,  with  teacup 
and  a half  sugar  and  a vanilla  bean  in  it.  Beat  yolks  of  twelve  eggs 
light  and  pour  the  boiling  cream  to  them.  Set  on  fire  again  for  a 
minute.  This  yellow  custard  will  not  become 
frothy,  rich  and  1 ght  in  the  freezer  if  cooked  too 
much,  and  should  be  taken  off  and  strained  as 
soon  as  slightly  thickened.  Freeze  as  directed. 

Mold  in  a round  mold  with  a chocolate  cream  for  center  layer  and 
a lemon  cream  above.  This  is  very  deliciorfs. 


ICES  AND  ICE-CREAM. 


399 


Orange  Ice-cream. — Cook  two  quarts  cream  and  two  teacups 
sugar,  cool,  strain  and  freeze.  Prepare  juice  of  one  dozen  oranges 
and  one  lemon  as  in  Saratoga  Ice-cream,  add  grated  rind  of  two 
oranges,  and  cook  to  a syrup  with  one  and  one-third  teacups  sugar, 
strain,  cool  and  mix  with  cream  when  half  frozen.  Strawberry 
Ice-cream  is  made  as  above,  first  preparing  one  quart  juice  from 
two  or  three  quarts  berries,  b}^  mashing  through  the  wire  sieve,  add- 
ing to  pulp  in  sieve  when  juice  ceases  to  run,  two-thirds  teacup  sugar 
(this  is  in  addition  to  quantity  given  for  ice-cream),  let  stand  an 
hour,  mash,  strain  and  add  lo  first’ juice,  then  cook  to  a syrup  and 
finish  as  above.  A teaspoon  or  two  orange  juice  added  with  the 
syrup  makes  a delicious  flavor„  Raspberry  Ice-cream  is  made  as 
the  Strawberry  using  the  Cuthbert  variety.  For  Riced  Orange  Ice- 
cream, wash  and  parboil  eight  or  nine  tablespoons  best  rice,  put 
in  custard  kettle  with  quart  milk  and  pint 
cream,  teacup  and  a half  sugar  and  a pinch 
salt ; cook  till  grains  are  almost  dissolved ; when 
done,  stir  in  yolks  of  six  eggs  and  two  tea- 
spoons vanilla,  mix  well  together,  freeze  as 
directed,  then  place  in  mold  and  pack.  When  Kiced  Orange  Ice-cream, 
ready  to  serve  take  from  mold  and  place  on  the  top  and  around 
the  base  a dozen  oranges  prepared  as  in  Orange  Compote. 


Peach  Ice-cream. — Mash  to  a pul]-)  one  quart  peaches,  strain 
through  a hair  sieve  and  add  six  ounces  of  loaf-sugar  which  has 
been  on  range  to  dissolve  a few  minutes ; add  one  pint  and  a half 
cream,  a few  drops  of  cochineal  to  give  a nice  peach-color  and  freeze 
as  directed ; or  cook  three  pints  cream  and  two  teacups  sugar,  strain 
and  when  cool  freeze  ; when  half  frozen  add  one  heaping  pint  peach 
pulp  mixed  to  a smooth  paste  with  two  teacups  sugar  and  add  also 
the  pint  of  cream,  whipped.  Two  quarts  peaches  make  one  pint 
pulp.  If  wished,  reserve  quarter  of  them,  cut  in  dice  and  add  to 
cream  just  before  serving.  To  prepare  pulp  do  not  peel  till  just 
ready  to  use,  as  ali  light  fruits  darken  so  quickly,  and  it  is  better  to 
even  drop  in  cold  water  as  soon  as  peeled,  but  must  not  remain 
long  as  juice  will  be  extracted ; chop  in  fruit 
bowl,  mash,  and  add  sugar  as  above,  stirring  till 
dissolved  and  strain  before  adding  to  frozen  cream. 
If  Peach  Flavor  is  used,  take  twice  as  much  as  of 
the  pulp  and  mix  it  with  the  cooked  cream  after 
Canned  peaches  are  used  same  way  as  fresh  fruit, 
utilizing  the  juice  for  pudding  sauces  or  ices.  Any  of  above  recipes 
may  be  molded  and  surrounded  with  pieces  of  the  fruit  when  served. 
Nice  Apricot  and  Apple  Ice-cream  may  be  made  as  above,  except  do 
not  pare  fruit.  Plum  and  Cherry  Ice-cream  are  made  same  way, 
except  after  stoning  and  mashing  the  fruit  add  a few  of  the  kernels 
pounded  to  a paste,  and  the  dark  fruits  can  stand  an  hour  or  so, 
stirring  occasionally ; if  the  light  fruits  are  placed  in  a covered 


Peach  Ice-cream. 


latter  has  cooled. 


400 


ICES  AND  ICE-CREAM. 


dish  they  may  also  he  kept  awhile  and  will  strain  easier.  Any  fruit 
may  be  used  as  above  and  for  Swiss  Ice-cream  whip  all  of  the 
cream,  instead  of  cooking  a part,  using  powdered  sugar  and  not 
straining ; freeze,  add  fruit  and  finish  as  above,  and  if  wished  even 
more  delicious  add  with  the  fruit  whites  of  six  eggs,  beaten  with  a 
quarter  teacup  sugar. 

Pine-apple  Ice-cream. — Three  pints  cream,  two  large  ripe  pine- 
apples, pared,  and  eyes,  heart  or  core  removed,  as  latter  is  bitter,  two 
pounds  powdered  sugar ; slice  pine-apples  thin,  scatter  sugar  between 
slices,  cover  and  let  stand  three  hours ; cut  or  chop  it  up  in  the 
syrup,  and  strain  through  a hair  seive  or  double  hag  of  coarse  lace ; 
beat  gradually  into  the  cream,  and  freeze,  adding  when  half  frozen  a 
pint  of  cream,  whipped  ; reserve  a few^ieces  of  pine-; 
cut  into  square  bits,  and  stir  through  cream  when 
frozen.  Peach  Ice-cream  may  be  made  in  same 
way  ; or  for  Saratoga  Ice-cream  take  above  pro- 
portions, using  granulated  sugar ; cook  the  cream 
and  two  teacups  sugar,  strain,  cool  and  freeze  and 
when  half  frozen,add  fruit  juice  prepared  as  follows  : 

Mash  and  strain  the  pulp,  a heaping  pint,  and  to  this  add  juice  of  tw(i 
oranges  and  one  lemon.  (To  better  obtain  juice  of  latter,  roll,  rub  with 
a spoonful  or  two  of  sugar  to  obtain  the  zest,  then  pare,  scrape  off  al] 
of  the  inner  white  rind  down  to  pulp,  as  this  is  feter,  cut  in  hal^ 
pick  out  seeds,  squeeze  out  juice,  dissolve  the  zest  in  it  and  strain.) 
Cook  all  the  juice  with  two  teacups  sugar  to  a syrup,  strain  andcooj 
and  add  with  the  pint  of  cream,  whipped,  when  preparation  is  hall 
frozen.  Mold  and  serve  with  whipped  cream  as  a garnish.  Pine 
apple  darkens  very  quickly  and  should  be  cooked  as  soon  as  pre^ 
pared.  Banana  Ice-cream  is  made  as  above,  using  teacup  less  sugar^ 
and  juice  of  one  lemon,  or  half  and  half  orange  and  lemon. 

Straioherry  Ice-cream. — Sprinkle  strawberries  with  sugar, 
mash  well  and  rub  through  a sieve ; to  a pint  juice  add  half  a pint 
good  cream,  make  very  sweet,  freeze,  and  when  half  frozen,  stir  in 
lightly  one  pint  of  cream,  whipped,  and  handful  of  whole  strawber- 
ries, sweetened.  Mold  and  pack ; or  mash  with  a potato  pounder  in 
an  earthen  bowl  one  quart  of  strawberries  with  one  pound  of  sugar  ; 
rub  through  a colander,  add  one  quart  sweet  cream  and  freeze.  Or  ii 
not  in  the  strawberry  season,  use  the  French  bottled  strawberries  ( or 
any  canned  ones),  mix  juice  with  half  a pint  of  cream,  sweeten,  freeze 
and  add  whipped  cream  and  strawberries  as  above.  Peach  or  Apple 
Ice-cream  may  be  made  in  same  way,  using  very  ripe  peaches  and 
the  yellow  bellflower  apple.  In  molding,  one  can  put  an  inch  layer 
of  any  of  the  above  fruit  creams  and  then  fill  with  Vanilla  Ice-cream, 
dropping  in  here  and  there  a little  candied  fruit.  This  makes  Cab- 
inet Ice-cream  and  can  be  prettily  molded  by  placing  carefully  some 
of  the  candied  fruit  next  mold  bt^fore  filling,  and  more  elaborately 


apple,  unsugared. 


Pine-apple  Ice'cream. 


ICES  AND  ICE-CREAM. 


401 


by  filling  the  mold  two-third:]^  full  of  Almond  Ice-cream  ; set  it  in  bed 
of  ice  and  salt;  then  to  two  (^“carts  ice-cream,  whip  half  pint  double 
cream,  mix  in  lightly  one-thii!*d  pint  pulverized  sugar  and  add  quar- 
ter pound  each  blanched  almonds,  candied  cherries,  pears  and 
apricots,  first  soaking  fruits  and  nuts  in  a hot  sugar  syrup  till  soft, 
then  chopping  into  dice  and  lig;htly  dusting  with  pulverized  sugar ; 
mix  this  prepared  cream  carefully  through  the  ice-cream  in  mold, 
put  on  cover,  bind  and  pack  as  directed.  For  Sitrprise  Ice-cream^ 
put  three  pints  of  strawberries  in  a deep  dish  with  one  cup  pulverized 
sugar  and  juice  of  one  orange  ; ^i^hip  four  pints  cream  and  add  two 
cups  sugar,  freeze,  take  out  beater  and  drav/  frozen  cream  to  sides  of 
freezer.  Fill  space  in  center  with  the  strawberries  and  sugar,  and 
pile  the  frozen  cream  over  them.  Put  on  cover  and  pack  as  di- 
rected. When  the  cream  is  turned  out,  garnish  the  base  with  straw- 
berries. Raspberries  or  any  fruit  may  be  used  in  same  way,  taking 
a little  less  sugar  for  sweeter  fruit  s,  and  may  be  molded  as  in  Fruit 
Surprise. 

Tea  Ice-cream. — Pour  a pint  cream  over  four  tablespoons  Old 
Hyson  tea,  scald  in  custard  kettle,,  or  by  placing  the  dish  contain- 
ing it  in  a kettle  of  boiling  water,  remove  from  fire  and  let  stand 
five  minutes ; strain  into  a pint  co\'d  cream,  scald  again,  and  when 
hot  mix  with  it  four  eggs  and  teacup  and  a half  sugar,  well  beaten 
together ; let  cool  and  freeze. 

Yanilla  Ice-cream. — Mix  three  pints  sweet  cream,  pint  ne^^ 
milk,  pint  pulverized  sugar,  whites  of  two  eggs,  beaten  light;  freeze 
Serve  plain  or  as  Fruit  Surprise  by  hning  a mold  with  it,  then  fi],i 
center  with  fresh  berries,  sweetened,  or  fruit  cut  in  slices,  and  cover 
with  the  ice-cream,  put  on  lid,  bind  and  set  in  freezer  for  half  an 
hour,  with  salt  and  ice  well  packed  around  it.  The  fruit  must  bo 
chilled,  but  not  frozen.  Strawberries  and  peaches  are  delicious  thus 
prepared.  Or  for  Yanilla  Custard  Ice  cream^  cook  in  kettle  in 
proportion  of  one  quart  cream,  six  eggs  and  teacup  and  a half  sugar  ; 
strain,  cool,  add  third  of  tablespoon  vanilla  and  freeze  as  directed ; 
reserving  the  whites,  beating  and  adding  when  custard  is  half  frozen, 
makes  it  lighter ; adding  when  this  is  frozen  ready  to  pack,  half  pint 
mixed  candied  cherries,  raisins,  currants  and  citron  prepared  as  in 
Cabinet  Ice-cream,  makes  Tutti  Frutti  Ice-cream. 

Cream  Biscuit. — These  are  generally  made  of  all  cream, although 
we  give  a recipe  with  part  milk  and  three  with  a syrup.  The  cream 
must  be  pure  double  cream,  whipped  to  a stiff  froth  and  drained  on 
sieve  as  directed.  There  are  only  one  or  two  kinds  that  are  frozen 
as  ice-cream  ; for  the  others,  molds,  paper  cases,  fruit  cases,  etc.,  are 
filled  with  the  mixture  and  placed  in  the  cave,  as  directed,  for  three 
or  four  hours.  The  cave  in  which  the  ice-cream  freezer  is  utilized  is 
best,  and  using  the  same  care  in  packing  as  with  ice-cream  there 
would  be  no  necessity  for  a different  cover  or  for  binding  the  joint 
26 


402 


ICES  AND  ICE-CREAM. 


after  covered ; so  the  only  additional  article  needed  would  be  a set 
of  shelves  to  fill  the  size  freezer  used,  and  it  would  be  wise  to  have 
two  or  three  extra  shelves  with  feet  of  different  heights  so  that  in- 
dividual molds,  glasses,  fruit  cases  and  any  other  receptacle  in 
which  ice-cream,  biscuits,  ices,  etc.,  are  molded  could  be  frozen. 
Or  as  a substitute  for  all  a large  tin  pail  can  be  used  for  freezer  and 
round  pieces  to  fit  made  of  heavy  white  card-board  for  shelves,  plac- 
ing them  on  top  each  layer  of  cases,  etc.  When  thus  used  do  not 
fill  cases  quite  full  and  after  placing  a layer  of  them  in  pail,  cover 
with  a round  piece  of  clean  white  paper  to  fit,  then  the  card-board 
shelf,  then  more  cases  and  so  on  till  all  are  used,  when  cover  pail,  pack 
and  finish  as  directed.  Below  are  recipes  of  different  varieties  of 
biscuits. 

Custard  Biscuit. — Beat  well  eight  yolks  of  eggs,  with  teacup 
and  a quarter  sugar,  a very  little  salt  and  one  pint  cream.  Stir  over 
the  fire  until  slightly  thickened.  Flavor  with  either  vanilla  pow- 
der, the  almond  or  lemon  extract  or  coffee  or  chocolate.  It  may  also 
be  made  by  adding  2,  puree  of  peaches,  strawberries,  raspberries,  oi’ 
pine-apple  to  custard.  Freeze  as  ice-cream  and  when  half  frozen 
stir  in  lightly  one-half  pint  of  cream,  whipped ; then  partly  fill  pa- 
per cases  with  the  mixture,  smooth  over  the  tops  and  place  in  ice- 
cream cave. 

Fruit  Biscuit. — Beat  yolks  of  eight  eggs  and  four  teacups 
sugar  well  together,  add  quart  of  any  fruit  juice,  cook  in  custard 
kettle,  strain  and  place  on  ice,  and  add  to  it  two  ounces  gelatine,  dis- 
solved by  adding  a very  little  warm  water,  placing  it  in  pan  of  hot 
water  and  setting  on  back  of  range.  When  mixture  thickens  add 
quart  cream,  fill  cases,  and  place  in  cave. 

Italian  Biscuit. — Boil  together  pint  each  granulated  sugar  and 
water  twenty  minutes,  add  well-beaten  white  of  an  egg  and  boil  ten 
minutes  longer.  Strain  into  an  earthen  dish  and  add  yolks  of 
twelve  eggs  and  whites  of  two  and  five  tablespoons  orange  juice. 
Set  dish  in  a pan  of  hot  water  during  process  of  beating.  Beat 
briskly  until  it  resembles  a well-prepared,  firm,  sponge-cake  batter. 
Fill  cases  with  it  and  smooth  over  tops  and  pack  and  freeze  as 
above.  Or  the  mixture  may  be  frozen  in  one  mold,  and  some  sifted 
macaroon  powder  or  grated  chocolate  sprinkled  over  the  surface,  to 
imitate  a baked  souMe,  and  with  care  the  hot  salamander  maybe  used. 
By  adding  three-quarters  pint  peach  pulp  and  stirring  lightly  with 
the  mixture  half  pint  cream,  whipped,  and  a quarter  teaspoon  va- 
nilla, luscious  Peach  BiscuitF'\S\.  be  the  result,  and  can  be  filled  in 
paper  cases,  or  in  the  Brick  mold,  or  in  a long  mold  j ust  the  width  and 
height  of  the  cases,  and  when  frozen,  turn  out,  cut  in  slices,  or  if  in 
long  mold  in  pieces  size  of  cases  and  frost  with  a Chocolate  Ice., 
made  of  half  pint  syrup  and  four  ounces  best  chocolate,  smoothly 
mixed,  and  frozen ; or  a Strawberry  or  Raspberry  Ice  may  be  used, 


ICES  AND  ICE-CREAM. 


403 


and  some  add  to  the  ice  whites  of  three  eggs  beaten  well  with  three 
tablespoons  sugar.  Serve  in  paper  cases.  Or  for  Straioherry 
Biscuit  add  pint  strawberry  pulp  instead  of  peach  and  then  the 
half  pint  cream,  whipped.  Fill  in  cases  and  surround  each  with  a 
hand  of  stiff  paper,  reaching  half  an  inch  above  the  edge  of  the 
case,  pinning  ends  together  to  secure  them  ; freeze  in  cave,  and  when 
ready  to  serve,  remove  the  hands  and  cover  with  macaroons  bruised 
fine  and  browned  in  oven,  and  one  can  quickly  use  the  Salamander 
iron  if  liked.  The  bands  of  paper  are  meant  to  give  the  appearance 
to  the  biscuit  of  having  risen  in  process  of  baking. 

Nut  Biscuit. — Make  a syrup  as  in  Vanilla  Biscuit,  cool  and 
add  the  nuts  blanched  and  prepared  as  for  ice-cream,  quarter  pound 
shelled  nuts  to  each  quart  cream,  and  the  well-beaten  yolks  of  eight 
eggs ; return  to  fire,  stir  quickly  till  it  thickens,  coating  the  spoon, 
then  strain  into  a large  boAvl  and  beat  till  cold.  Whip  quart  cream 
and  add  lightly  with  half  teaspoon  almond  extract,  if  almond  oi 
pistachio  nuts  are  used,  and  fill  in  cases.  Any  flavoring  may  be 
used,  and  blanched  nuts  and  candied  fruits,  prepared  as  in  Cabinel 
Ice-cream,  may  be  added  just  before  filling  cases. 

% 

Yanilla  Biscuit. — Beat  well  together  the  yolks  of  eight  eggs, 
and  eight  ounces  powdered  sugar.  Flavor  one  pint  new  milk  with 
vanilla,  and  boil  it.  Dissolve  in  a vessel  set  in  hot  water  one  and 
a half  ounce  of  gelatine,  and  as  soon  as  it  is  dissolved  mix  with  the 
boiling  milk,  pour  slowly  over  eggs  and  sugar,  stirring  all  the  time  ; 
when  well  mixed  pass  through  a sieve  and  put  in  very  cold  place  to 
cool.  Whip  one  pint  cream  and  add  it  slowly  to  the  cold  mixture  ; 
fill  cases  and  freeze.  Or,  With  Syritp^  cook  in  custard  kettle  tea- 
cup and  a quarter  sugar  and  one  gill  water,  add  yolks  of  eight  eggs 
and  stir  well  for  five  or  ten  minutes ; strain  into  an  earthen  bowl 
and  beat  with  an  egg  beater  till  it  is  stiff  and  cold.  Whip  quart 
thick  double  cream,  flavor  with  quarter  tablespoon  vanilla  and  stir 
it  lightly  into  the  above ; fill  the  cases,  pack  in  cave,  and  finish  as 
directed ; or  part  of  mixture  may  be  colored  and  flavored  with  rasp- 
berry syrup  and  placed  in  bottom  of  cases,  then  fill  them  with  the 
plain  vanilla  and  freeze.  Or  in  Fruit  Biscuit^  fill  two-thirds  full 
with  the  mixture,  freeze,  and  fill  up  with  some  water-ice  that  blends 
with  the  flavor  used  in  mixture : For  Strawberry  Biscuit  use  a 
layer  of  Orange  Ice ; for  Pineapple  Biscuit,  Lemon  Ice,  etc.  Any  of 
the  above  mixtures  may  be  made  more  elaborate  by  glazing,  but  as 
that  needs  a confectioner’s  skill  we  will  not  describe  it ; but  the  mere 
icing  of  them  is  given  in  Strawberry  Biscuit,  and  one  can  cover 
their  tops  when  ready  to  serve  with  whipped  cream  or  with  a plain 
meringue,  and  the  mixture  can  also  be  filled  in  Lemon  or  Orange 
cases,  made  by  cutting  off  top  from  fruit  and  carefully  removing 
pulp. 

Sherbet  Crystal. — Boil  one  pint  sugar  and  pint  and  half 


404 


ICES  AND  ICE-CREAM. 


water  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes,  beat  yolks  of  fifteen  eggs  very  light 
and  strain.  Place  syrup  in  custard  kettle  and  add  yolks,  beating 
with  an  egg-whisk  for  ten  minutes.  Remove  inner  kettle  from  fire, 
place  in  a pan  of  cold  water  and  continue  beating  fifteen  min- 
utes. Pack  mold  in  ice  and  salt,  and  spread  on  sides  and  bottom 
of  it  one  quart  Strawberry  or  Raspberry  Sherbet ; when  hardened, 
put  the  cooked  mixture  in  center,  being  careful  not  to  disturb  the 
sherbet,  cover  all  with  a piece  of  thick  white  paper,  put  on  cover 
and  finish  as  directed  in  packing  molds. 

Glazed  Meringue. — Any  ice-cream  maybe  meringued  and  glazed 
successfully.  Boil  three-quarters  pint  milk  and  stir  in  tablespoon  gela- 
tine that  has  been  soaked  anhour  or  two  in  half  cup  cold  water,  strain 
into  quart  cream,  add  tablespoon  vanilla  and  half  pound  pulverized 
sugar ; when  frozen,  take  out  beater  and  pack  the  cream  smoothly,  be- 
ing careful  to  have  the  top  perfectly  level, and  pack  with  ice  as  directed. 
When  ready  to  serve,  make  a meringue  of  the  whites  of  six  eggs  and 
six  tablesj)oons  pulverized  sugar. . Turn  the  cream  out  on  a fancy 
dish  and  cover  every  part  well  with  the  meringue.  Brown  v/ith  ’a 
red  hot  salamander  or  shovel  and  serve  immediately ; or  put  the 
frozen  creAm  in  round  mold  and  imbed  in  ice  and  salt;  have  a 
flat  round  sponge  cake  on  plate,  and  when  ready  to  serve  turn  mold 
quickly  out  upon  it,  cover  witli  the  meringue  and  glaze  as  above. 
Another  way  to  serve  any  ice  cream,  without  the  gla^zing,  is  to  bake 
a sponge  cake  in  one  of  the  crown  molds,  ice  it  with  a white  icing, 
and  when  ready  to  serve  place  on  platter,  spread  inside  with  any 
fruit  jelly  liked  and  fill  center  with  any  ice-cream,  frozen  in  freezer 
but  not  molded ; heap  whipped  cream,  sweetened,  on  top  of  center 
and  around  base  of  cake  and  serve. 

Frozen  Pudding.— Vui  one  pint  milk  in  custard  kettle,  beat 
three  eggs  and  teacup  sugar  together,  and  add,  stirring  all  the  while. 
Pour  the  hot  custard  on  twenty-five  dry  lady  fingers,  add  cup  dried 
currants  and  let  cool.  When  cold,  add  two  tablespoons  orange 
juice  and  pint  cream,  whipped  to  a froth.  Freeze  the  same  as  ice- 
cream. When  frozen  wet  a melon  mold  in  cold  water,.sprinkle  a few 
currants  on  the  sides  and  bottom  and  filbwith  frozen  mixture  ; bind 
and  pack  as  directed.  Serve  with  Apricot  Sauce  around  it.  Or 
With  take  dozen  each  macaroons  and  cocoa-nut  cakes,  doz- 

en and  a half  lady  fingers,  and  a cup  dried  currants.  Prepare  mold  as 
above,  sprinkle  sides  ancl  bottom  with  currants  and  put  in  lay- 
ers of  the  cakes,  sprinkling  with  currants  till  all  are  used.  Put  a 
pint  and  a half  milk  in  custard  kettle,  when  hot,  stir  in  two  table- 
spoons gelatine,  soaked  one  hour  in  half  cup  cold  milk,  then  add 
four  eggs  beaten  well  with  teacup  sugar,  and  cook  four  minutes,  stir- 
ring all  the  while.  Take  off,  and  add  pinch  salt  and  one  teaspoon 
vanilla.  Pour  this,  a few  spoonfuls  at  a time,  on  the  cake  and  let 
cool.  When  cold,  cover  with  -thick  white  paper,  and  it  is  well  to 


ICES  AND  ICE-CREAM. 


405 


let  paper  extend  over  the  edges  and  then  close  the  cover  tight  upon 
it ; bind  and  pack  in  ice  and  salt.  Or  a more  elaborate  pudding  is  made 
by  adding  to  the  gelatine  custard  a pint  cream  and  three  more  eggs, 
while  cooking ; remove  from  fire  and  add  half  tablespoon  nectarine 
extract  and  strain  into  mold  till  within  half  an  inch  of  top, 
having  first  half  filled  it  with  cake,  fruit  and  nuts,  placed  in  layers  as 
above,  using  macaroons,  lady  fingers,  currants,  seedless  raisins, 
citron  and  blanched  almonds,  preparing  currants,  raisins  and  cit- 
ron as  in  Cabinet  Ice-cream  and  chopping  the  almonds.  Now  cut 
a piece  from  a sheet  of  sponge  cake  to  fit  top  and  place  on  the  cus- 
tard, cover  tightly  v/ith  the  lid  and  let  the  pudding  cool.  When 
cold,  bind  and  pack  as  directed,  for  three  or  four  hours.  Serve  with 
any  pudding  sauce,  or  a rich  custard,  or  whipped  cream,  sweetened. 
Any  kind  of  stale  cake,  macaroons  or  meringues,  dried  or  preserved 
fruit,  candied  fruit  or  flavoring  may  be  used,  although  for  the  latter 
our  confectioner  tells  us  that  Nectarine  Extract  is  more  delicious 
for  cabinet  puddings ; while  we  have  had  success  in  all  fruit  pud- 
dings in  mixing  the  flavor,  vanilla  and  lemon,  half  and  half.  The 
famous  Nesselrode  Pudding  can  be  made  with  or  without  eggs  and 
differs  ver}^  little  from  any  of  the  iced  puddings,  save  there  must  be 
chestnuts  in  it.  With  Eggs^  boil  or  blanch  forty  chestnuts,  and  as 
in  ice-cream  the  Italian  are  best  to  use,  peel,  mash  and  rub  through 
a sieve  and  cook  in  custard  kettle  with  yolks  of  twelve  eggs,  pint 
cream  and  two  teacups  sugar;  when  it  thickens  strain  and  add 
teaspoon  vanilla  and  pinch  salt ; or  mix  the  chestnut  pulp  with  clari- 
fied syrup,  pint  sugar  and  pint  water,  as  in  Italian  Biscuit,  add  cream 
and  eggs  as  above  and  place  in  custard  kettle,  stirring  constantly 
until  it  begins  to  thicken,  remove  and  add  vanilla.  When  either 
mixture  is  cold,  put  in  freezer  and  freeze,  adding  when  partly  frozen, 
four  tablespoons  orange  juice,  pint  of  cream,  whipped,  and  two 
ounces  each  citron,  currants  and  raisins,  three  ounces  each  preserved 
pine-apples,  and  candied  apricots  and  cherries,  soaked  or  cooked  in 
syrup  as  above;  then  chop  raisins,  slice  citron  very  fine  and  cut  the 
pine-apple  and  apricots  into  dice ; or  put  mixture  in  freezer,  and 
freeze  without  stirring,  scraping  down  the  cream  from  sides  of  can 
with  the  paddle  as  fast  as  it  freezes  and  lightly  mixing  till  smooth. 
Cover,  and  when  frozen  place  inmold,  stirring  carefully  into  it  the 
fruit  prepared  as  above,  and  pint  cream,  whipped ; cover,  bind,  and 
set  in  cave.  To  make  Without  Eggs^  take  a pint  chestnut  pulp,  add 
two  teacups  sugar  and  rub  to  a smooth  paste,  add  teaspoon  vanilla 
and  mix  it  gently  with  a pint  of  cream,  whipped  ; put  in  freezer  and 
freeze  without  stirring,  as  above ; then  add  to  it  quarter  pound  each 
currants,  raisins  and  citron,  prepared  as  directed ; put  in  molds  and 
place  in  cave  or  the  pail  as  described.  Serve  with  any  pudding 
sauce,  custard  or  whipped  cream.  Or,  With  Pineapple^  boil  one 
pint  and  a half  shelled  chestnuts  half  an  hour,  rub  off  skins,  pound 
to  a paste  and  to  it  add  a pint  shelled  almonds,  blanched  and  pre- 


406 


ICES  AND  ICE-CREAM. 


pared  as  above.  Make  a syrup  of  pint  each  sugar  and  water  and  the 
juice  from  one  can  pine-apple,  cook  twenty  minutes  in  custard  kettle 
and  add  beaten  yolks  of  eleven  eggs,  placing  on 
back  of  range  and  stirring  constantly  till  it  thick- 
ens, some  using  an  egg  beater.  Take  off,  place 
inner  kettle  in  a pan  of  cold  water  and  beat 
fifteen  minutes  longer  and  let  cool;  then  mix 
nut  paste  with  half  pint  cream  and  rub  through' 
the  sieve,  add  to  mixture  and  freeze.  Prepare  MeiionMoiou 
three-quarters  pound  mixed  French  candied  fruit,  as  in  Cabinet 
Ice-cream,  chop  and  add  with  the  canned  pine-apple  cut  fine,  table- 
spoon vanilla,  six  tablespoons  orange  juice  and  half  pint  cream, 
whipped,  when  mixture  is  half  frozen,  or  when  ready  to  mold. 
A melon  mold  makes  the  handsomest  dish  and  when  served 
stick  here  and  there  roasted  chestnuts  or  blanched  almonds,  dipped 
in  a candy  syrup,  then  slightly  cooled,  and  also  garnish  the  melon 
with  them.  Some  add  the  candied  fruit,  flavoring,  etc.,  to  the 
mixture  before  freezing,  but  the  extra  trouble  will  well  repay  one. 

Strawbemj  Yanity. — Beat  yolks  of  nine  eggs  and  two  teacups 
pulverized  sugar  to  a cream,  and  to  this  add  one  quart  strawberry 
juice,  prepared  as  for  Strawberry  Ice-cream,  mixed  with  two  teacups 
sugar  till  all  dissolved.  Place  mixture  on  ice  and  strain  into  it  half 
box  gelatine,  dissolved,  and  when  it  thickens  slightly,  stir  in  gently 
one  quart  pure  double  cream,  whipped.  When  it  begins  to  harden, 
fill  in  a large  mold,  or  individual  molds,  and  pack.  Serve  in  two  or 
three  hours,  as  Vanities  are  more  like  the  different  creams  and  do 
not  want  to  be  as  hard  as  ice-cream.  Whole  strawberries  may  be 
dropped  in  just  before  molding.  Serve  with  whipped  cream  sweet- 
ened, or  it  is  nice  with  simply  sweetened  cream,  flavored  with  straw- 
berry juice;  or  vrith  a custard  made  by  cooking  in  custard  kettle 
one  pint  milk  or  cream,  yolks  of  three  eggs  and  half  teacup  sugar ; 
remove  from  fire  and  add  the  v»^eil-whipped  whites,  quarter  pint 
strawberry  juice  and  a teaspoon  orange  juice  and  let  become  ice-cold. 
The  same  flavor  of  Vanities  can  be  made  as  of  ice-creams,  using  same 
proportion  of  fruit  juice  as  above,  and  candied  and  preserved  fruits 
can  be  added  as  before  in  ice-creams.  For  other  flavors  as  vanilla, cof- 
fee, chocolate,  etc.,  use  quart  water  instead  of  fruit  juice.  Orange  and 
Lemon  Vanities  maybe  served  in  the  Fruit  Cases  by  cutting  off 
about  an  inch  from  the  top  of  fruit  corresponding  to  the  Vanity, 
carefully  taking  out  the  pulp  and  filling  wi  ch  the  mixture  ; or  a more 
economical  way  is  to  cut  fruit  in  halves,  take  out  pulp,  then  paste 
on  a rim  of  buttered  paper  extending  an  inch  and  a half  above  the 
edge,  fill  and  place  in  Ice-cream  Cave  ; or  any  Vanity  can  be  filled  in 
a cake-case  as  described  on  bottom  of  page  108  and  then  placed  in 
cave.  It  would  be  better  to  first  loosen  cake  from  mold,  then 
return  to  mold,  carefully  cut  out  center,  fill  and  set  in  cave  in 
the  cake-mold,  as  that  would  keep  it  in  shape.  When  ready  to  serve 


ICES  AND  ICE-CREAM. 


407 


take  out  carefully,  invert  on  platter,  placing  it  right  side  up,  and 
• heap  a meringue  or  whipped  cream  upon  the  Vanity  in  center.  In 
Lemon  Vanity  use  only  one  and  a half  pints  juice,  and  in  Banana 
and  Chocolate  use  teacup  less  sugar. 


Ices. 


These  are  genera  lly  made  of  water,  sugar  and  juice  of  fruits,  al- 
though the  fruit  juice  is  used  alone  with  its  measurement  of  sugar, 
as  pint  for  pint.  The  juice  is  obtained  by  rubbing  fruit  through  a 
wire  sieve,  all  except  oranges  and  lemons  (as  with  them  none  of  the 
pulp  is  used),  and  then  straining  through  the  ice-cream,  or  three 
cornered  jelly  strainer,  although  with  peaches,  apples,  apricots,  etc., 
some  prefer  the  pulp  also,  and  do  not  strain.  Where  any  seeded 
fruits  are  used,  it  gives  a fine  flavor  to  leave  a few  of  the  kernels  of 
the  seed  in  the  pulp  for  an  hour  or  so,  and  some  mash  them  to  a 
paste  and  add,  straining  juice  when  used,  but  as  in  all  flavoring, 
give  only  a slight  hint  rather  than  a decided  taste.  In  making  the 
first  kind,  if  the  water  and  sugar  are  not  well  mixed  before  freezing, 
Mi3  sugar  will  sink  to  bottom  and  there  will  be  a sharp  unpleasant 
iaste,  or  the  mixture  will  be  granular  and  mushy  in  texture,  like  a 
hardened  mixture  of  sweetened  snow  and  water,  and  melt  very 
quickly,  even  in  the  freezer,  if  it  is  left  open  a few  moments,  and  will 
soon  become  soft  and  spongy.  But  by  following  directions  given 
ices  can  be  made  as  smooth  and  firm  as  the  best  ice-cream  and  much 
resemble  it  in  texture.  The  sugar  and  water  must  be  cooked  in  a 
kettle  to  a clear  syrup,  clarified  if  not  clear,  scum  removed,  and 
the  hot  syrup  strained  through  the  ice-cream  strainer  and  let  he- 
come  ice-cold.  Pour  it  into  freezer,  packed  as  for  ice-cream,  add  the 
strained  fruit  juice,  and  other  materials,  if  any,  and  freeze  as  directed  ; 
it  will  usually  take  from  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes  to  effect  the  first 
freezing  of  ices,  as  they  require  more  time  than  ice-cream.  Then 
open  can,  scrape  down  sides,  and  beat  till  smooth,  and  add  ( if 
three  pints  water)  one  white  of  egg,  beatenwith  a tablespoon  pulver- 
ized sugar  to  a stiff  froth,  or  Merinyue,  and  work  as  smoothly  as  pos- 
sible. Too  many  whites  of  eggs  are  apt  to  give  a milky  look,  as 
tney  melt  out  rapidly.  Draw  off  brine,  renew  ice  and  salt,  place  the 


408 


ICES  AND  ICE-CREAM. 


“brine  blanket’’  over  all  as  in  ice-cream,  and  let  stand  to  harden  and 
ripen,  for  two  or  three  hours.  Open  can,  renew  beating,  repack  as 
before  and  when  frozen,  serve. 

Water-ices  increase  in  bulk  one-half  when  frozen  as  above.  For 
what  are  termed  Granites  or  Sherbets,  where  a syrup  is  not  made 
nor  the  meringue  added,  turn  out  as  soon  as  half  frozen,  or  as  wet 
snow.  When  Fruit  Flavors  are  used,  add  them  to  the  syrup  when 
partially  cooled,  or  place  in  dish  in  a pan  of  hot  water  and  beat  till 
melted  and  then  add.  Use  earthen  bowls,  crocks,  wooden  spoons, 
etc.,  for  mixing  as  in  ice-cream.  For  ices,  a good  general  rule  is 
pint  syrup  to  each  pint  fruit  juice,  or  pint  and  a half  Fruit  Flavor,  and 
to  make  syrup,  take  pint  and  a half  granulated  sugar  to  one  pint 
water,  boil  fifteen  minutes,  add  half  of  white  of  an  egg,  well  beaten, 
Jet  boil,  strain  and  cool.  Any  of  the  fruit  shrubs  or  fruit  juices, 
canned  expressly  for  this,  make  delicious  ices,  and  juice  from  can- 
ned plums  and  all  the  berries  may  be  used  with  good  results.  The 
above  is  one  rule,  but  we  give  many  different  recipes  that  have  been 
successfully  used,  making  different  grades  of  richness,  flavoring,  etc., 
although  care  must  be  taken  not  to  make  too  sweet  as  it  will  not 
freeze  as  readily. 

Ices  are  usually  served  in  glasses  as  illustrated, but  if  molded,  must 
have  a small  quantity  of  dissolved  gelatine  added  to  enable  them  to 
keep  their  shape.  After  mold  is  filled  make 
air-tight  by  placing  a piece  of  writing  paper 
around  the  edges,  and  then  shutting  cover 
of  mold  upon  it ; bind  and  pack  as  directed, 
and  when  ready  to  serve  wipe  the  ice  and  salt  off  mold  very  carefully 
and  dip  in  cold  water.  Ices  when  frozen  should  be  perfectly  smooth 
and  soft  enough  to  yield  easily  to  the  spoon,  if  brittle  or  solid  it  is 
an  indication  that  too  much  water  has  been  used.  A pretty  orna- 
mentation for  them  is  made  by  preparing  a gelatine  jelly  in  the  usual 
manner,  then  reduce  by  slow  boiling  to  little  more  than  half,  color 
as  desired,  strain,  flavor,  and  cool  on  large  platters,  pouring  it  about 
third  inch  thick ; when  cold  cut  out  with  any  of  the  vegetable  cut- 
ters, leaves,  flowers,etc.,  place  on  the  molded  ices  and  also  garnish  with 
them  when  served.  This  is  equally  ornamental  for  ice-cream. 
Any  fresh  fruit  cut  in  pieces,  or  candied  or  preserved  fruit,  or  nuts, 
the  last  three  prepared  as  in  Cabinet  Ice-cream,  may  be  added  just 
before  molding,  or  if  not  molded  just  before  serving  the  ice.  It  is 


Dish  of  Ices. 


ICES  AND  ICE-CREAM. 


409 


especially  necessary  with  ices  that  they  be  beaten  up  well  before 
dishing  from  freezer,  and  in  using  canned  fruit  use  less  water  in 
proposition  to  fruit. 


Apple  Ice. — Grate,  sweeten  and  freeze  yellow  bellflower  apples  ; 
canned  apples  may  be  mashed  and  prepared  in  same  way.  Pears, 
peaches  or  quinces  can  also  be  frozen  as  above.  Or  make  a syrup 
of  three  pints  of  water  and  four  teacups  sugar ; let  cool.  Quickly 
slice  unpared,  tart  and  nicely  flavored  apples,  then  chop,  mash  and 
rub  through  mre  sieve  until  a pint  of  pulp  and  juice  is  obtained, 
which  add  immediately  to  syrup  ; freeze,  add  meringue  and  finish  as 
directed.  Peachy  Pear.,  Apricot^  Cherry^  Nectarine  and  Plum  lees 
are  made  in  same  manner.  Canned  fruit  may  be  used  with  less 
water  in  syrup  and  if  Fruit  Flavor  is  used,  take  proportion  as  given. 

- Apricot  Ice. — Cut  in  pieces  two  cups  best  apricots  and  stew 
vath  the  blanched  kernels  in  two  cups  water  and  one  cup  sugar  un- 
til tender,  then  rub  through  sieve  and  put  in  freezer.  Freeze,  and 
when  partly  frozen  beat  in  well-frothed  whites  of  two  eggs,  or  the 
meringue  as  described  above,  and  finish  as  directed.  Just  before 
serving  stir  in  cup  sliced  apricots.  Canned  apricots  may  be  used 
with  their  syrup  using  less  water.  Peach  ./ce' may  be  prepared  in 
same  way. 

Cherry  /ce.— -Take  two  quarts  sweet  cherries,  one  of  water  and 
three  teacups  sugar.  Pound  fruit  in  mortar  so  as  to  break  the  stones 
and  strain  the  juice  through  a fine  strainer.  Boil  the  cherry  pulp 
with  some  of  the  sugar  and  water  to  extract  the  flavor  from  the  ker- 
nels, and  rub  that  through  the  sieve;  mix  all, together  and  freeze. 
This  may  be  molded  with  a nut  cream  by  lining  a mold  with  the 
ice  and  filling  the  middle  with  the  cream ; bind  and  pack  as 
directed.  Or  if  served  direct  from  the  freezer,  place  the  ice  as  a border 
in  the  individual  dishes  aud  the  nut  ice-cream  in  the  center.  This 
is  a nice  way  to  serve  different  creams  and  ices. 

Citron  Ice. — Make  two  quarts  rich  lemonade,  well  flavored  with 
the  rind ; if  grated  rind  is  used,  the  lemonade  must  be  strained  before 
putting  in  citron.  Slice  enough  citron  thin  and  small  to  loosely 
fill  a half-pint  measure,  and  add  to  lemonade.  Let  boil  a moment, 
or  if  made  previous  evening,  this  will  not  be  necessary  ; cool,  freeze, 
and  when  partly  frozen  add  the  meringue  and  finish  as  directed. 
Preserved  Watermelon  can  be  used  in  same  way. 

Currant  Ice. — Boil  down  three  pints  water  and  a pound  and  a 
half  sugar  to  a quart,  skim,  add  two  cups  currant  juice,  and  when 
partly  frozen,  add  whites  of  five  eggs. 


410 


ICES  AND  ICE-CREAM. 


Gooseberry  Ice. — Stew  gooseberries  until  soft,  squeeze  through 
ice-cream  strainer,  and  to  every  pint  juice  add  pint  and  a half  gran- 
ulated sugar  and  pint  water ; mix  well,  and  freeze ; when  half  frozen 
add  whipped  whites  of  three  eggs. 

Grape  Ice. — Stew  a cup  ripe  Concord  grapes,  mash  with  a pint 
sugar,  add  juice  of  a lemon  and  pint  water,  strain  and  freeze. 

Lemon  Ice. — To  one  pint  lemon  juice,  add  one  quart  sugar,  and 
one  quart  water,  in  which  the  thin  rind  of  three  lemons  has  been 
allowed  to  stand  until  highly  flavored ; when  partly  frozen  add  the 
whites  of  two  eggs,  beaten  to  a stiff  froth.  Or  prepare  nine  lemons 
and  three  oranges,  as  in  Saratoga  Ice-cream,  being  very  careful  to 
extract  every  seed,  as  they  cause  a bitter  taste.  To  a syrup  made  of 
quart  and  a half  water  and  four  teacups  sugar  add  lemon  juice,  will 
be  about  half  pint,  and  half  as  much  orange,  and  when  partly  frozen 
add  the  meringue  of  one  egg ; prej^are  zest  from  only  half  the  lemons. 
Serve  in  glasses  with  tablespoon  meringue,  (whites  of  two  eggs 
beaten  well  with  two  tablespoons  sugar),  flavored  with  orange  juice, 
on  each  glass. 

Orange  Ice. — Make  as  above,  using  nine  oranges  and  one  lemon ; 
when  frozen  fill  in  the  orange  fruit  cases  and  place  in  Ice-cream 
Cave  for  three  or  four  hours,  and  it  is  then  made  more  delicious  by 
covering  the  ice  in  each  case  with  a meringue  and  browning  quickly 
with  a red  hot  salamander,  serving  immediately.  The  orange  pulp 
taken  from  cases  can  be  used  in  obtaining  juice.  Or  make  a thick 
syrup  by  boiling  two  teacups  sugar  with  teacup  water ; divide  three 
of  the  oranges,  after  peeling,  b}^  the  natural  divisions,  and  drop  the 
pieces  into  the  boiling  syrup,  first  extracting  the  seeds ; grate  the 
yellow  zest  of  the  remaining  three  oranges  into  a bowl  and  squeeze 
in  the  juice;  then  pour  the  syrup  from  the  scalded  slices  into  the 
bowl,  and  keep  the  slices  on  ice,  to  be  added  last.  Add  quart  water 
and  juice  of  a small  lemon  to  syrup,  strain  and  freezOc  When  partly 
frozen  Tvhip  four  whites  firm,  stir  them  in  and  beat  up  the  ice  till  it 
looks  like  cream ; cover  closely  and  pack  with  more  ice  and  salt,  and 
when  done  mix  in  gently  the  orange  slices,  without  breaking  them. 
Serve  in  ice-cups,  glasses  or  saucers.  Raspberry  and  Strawberry 
Ice  can  be  made  as  above,  using  with  the  lemon  juice,  a little  orange 
juice  also  in  the  strawberry. 

Peach  Ice. — Make  a syrup  or  not  as  liked,  in  proportion  as 
given  in  directions  and  add  one  can  or  twelve  fresh  peaches  well 
mashed.  When  frozen  add  beaten  whites  of  three  eggs  and  finish  as 
directed.  Or,  peel  and  quarter  the  fresh  peaches,  add  syrup,  and  put 
at  once  in  mold,  having  first  placed  some  of  the  slices  of  peaches 
in  bottom  of  mold  ; cover,  bind  and  pack  for  five  or  six  hours  ; cream 
and  sugar  may  be  used  instead  of  the  sj^rup,  making  Peaches  ana 
Cream  Ice.  Whipping  the  cream  is  an  addition. 


ICES  AND  ICE-CREAM. 


411 


Pine-apple  Ice. — Bruise  a half  pound  fresh  pine-apple  in  a 
n«vi>rtar,  add  juice  of  one  lemon,  half  pint  water,  pint  clarified  syrup^ 
sti^ain  and  freeze,  adding  the  meringue  when  half  frozen  if  wished. 
For  Tutti  Frntti  Ice.,  place  a layer  of  Lemon  or  above  ice  in  a 
Brick  mold,  making  it  quarter  full,  and  place  in  ice  and  salt ; then 
mix  an  equal  portion  each  candied  apricots,  cjierries,  strawberries 
or  any  fruits  wished,  and  blanched  almond  or  pistachio  nuts,  pre- 
pared as  in  Cabinet  Ice-cream,  in  all  about  a pound  of  mixture,  with 
a quart  of  Strawberry  or  Orange  Ice,  and  add  to  mold  till  three- 
fourths  full ; smooth  and  add  of  first  ice.  Lemon  or  Pine-apple,  till 
full  to  overflowing.  Bind  and  pack  as  directed  for  three  or  four 
hours.  Preserved  fruits  may  he  used,  prepared  as  in  ice-cream 
directions,  and  a little  preserved  ginger  or  angelica  root  is  a choice 
addition.  Use  other  ices  also,  according  to  different  tastes. 

Snoio  Ice. — Add  quarter  pound  sugar  to  half  pint  cream,  and 
flavor  highly  with  vanilla  or  lemon ; if  lemon  juice  is  used,  more 
sugar  will  be  required.  Stir  in  newly-fallen  snow  until  thick  as  ice- 
cream, and  any  kind  of  fruit  juice  may  be  used  instead  of  cream. 
In  either  case  the  snow  must  not  be  added  until  just  before  serving. 

Strawberry  Ice. — Nice  sound  fruit  should  be  obtained,  stems 
removed,  and  the  berries  gently  wiped  perfectly  clean  and  dry ; then 
put  into  a dish,  and  place  pulverized  sugar  over  them,  stirring  with 
a wooden  spoon  until  fruit  is  slightly  mashed.  Rub  pint  pulp  with 
gill  and  a half  juice  through  wire  sieve,  add  pint  clarified  syrup 

freeze.  Pour  into  small  glasses,  and 
arrange  in  dish  as  illustrated,  on  a foun- 
dation  of  green  leaves ; or  mash  two  quarts 
strawberries  with  two  pounds  sugar ; let 
Strawberry  Ice.  stand  an  hour  or  more,  squeeze  in  a crash 

?;tramer.  pressing  out  all  juice,  add  equal  measure  water,  and  when 
naif  frozen,  add  che  white  of  one  egg  beaten  with  tablespoon  pulver- 
ized sugar. 

Colorings. — For  Blue  rub  a piece  of  indigo  with  a little  water 
and  add  by  drops  to  the  mixture  to  be  colored  until  the  desired 
' shade  is  reached.  For  Brown  use  grated  chocolate,  or  for  a very 
light  brown,  Caramel^  which  is  prepared  for  immediate  use  by  put- 
ting cup  granulated  sugar  in  iron  skillet  or  frying-pan  set  over  fire, 
and  stirring  constantly  until  a dark  brown  color  and  as  thick  as 
molasses.  When  properly  done  a cup  sugar  will  make  five  table- 
spoons coloring.  When  preparing  for  bottling,^  boil  a longer  tim.e, 
then  add  a half  pint  water  and  boil  again,  until  a little  cooled  in 
saucer  is  found  thick  as  molasses  or  honey.  If  too  thick,  or  if  h 
candies,  add  a little  more  water  and  boil  again.  Bottle,  and  if  kept 
corkea  it  will  never  spoil.  For  Green  use  either  the  Parsley  or 
Spinach  Coloring,  given  on  page  180.  For  Pinh  use  strawberry, 
currant  or  cranberry  juice  or  jelly.  If  a bright  lied  is  desired,  mis 


m 


ICES  AND  ICE>CREAM. 


one  drachm  each  pulverized  alum  and  cream  tartar,  four  drachms 
powdered  cochineal,  two  ounces  loaf  sugar  and  saltspoon  soda  ; or 
same  proportions  in  level  tablespoons  are  two-thirds  tablespoon  pul- 
verized alum,  half  tablespoon  cream  tartar,  two  and  a half  of  pow- 
dered cochineal,  four  of  pounded  loaf  sugar  and  the  saltspoon  soda ; 
boil  ten  minutes  in  half  pint  pure  soft  water  and  when  cool  bottle 
and  cook  for  use.  *For  Yellow,  use  the  juice  of  a carrot  or  the 
grated  peel  of  an  orange  or  lemon,  moistened  with  the  juice  or  a lit- 
tle water,  and  squeezed  through  a cloth.  When  a deeper  color  is 
wanted  boil  a little  American  saffron  v/ith  a little  water  till  a bright 
yellow,  strain  and  cool,  and  use  enough  to  give  desired  shade ; some 
use  a mixture  of  an  ounce  turmeric  with  four  of  deodorized  alcohol, 
Bhaking  till  dissolved  and  then  straining  and  bottling.  No  objec- 
tion can  be  made  to  the  use  of  any  of  the  above,  save  perhaps  to  the 
blue,  which  is  very  seldom  used,  and  only  for  Ornamental  Icing. 
The  others  are  all  fruit  or  vegetable  preparations,  and  their  use  adds 
greatly  to  the  handsome  appearance  of  ices  and  ice-creams,  icing, 
jellies,  cakes,  creams  and  pudding  and  other  sauces.  To  guard 
against  getting  in  too  much  coloring,  use  by  putting  in  a very  little 
at  first,  mixing  well,  then  add  a very  little  more  until  desired 
shade  is  obtained. 

Gopher  Orange  lee — Make  a syrup  of  three  pints  water  and 
one  quart  sugar;  when  cool  add  two  gills  lemon  juice  and  three  of 
oraAige  juice  ; freeze  and  when  half  frozen  add  white  of  one  egg,  beat- 
en wel  l with  tablespoon  sugar.  Thoroughly  beat  it  with  the  ice,  finish 
freezing  and  serve.  Strawberries  or  slices  of  pineapples  gently  stir- 
red XY’HO'^^rijvMhefore  serving  (if  added  too  long  before,  they  freeze 
and  are  unpleasant  to  eat)  make  a delicious  variety.  Pine-app  e 
Ice  mny  be  made  of  canned  pine-apple  using  pint  of  juice,  and  gill 
lemon  juice  with  above  proportion  of  syrup,  adding  the  pine-apple 
cat  in  dice  just  before  serving,  if  wished.  With  all  ices  it  is  always 
better  to  add  a gill  of  lemon  juice,  as  the  acid  assists  in  the  freezing 
and  also  adds  to  the  flavor.  Any  proportions  of  the  recipe  may  be 
made ; above  makes  about  two  dozen  dishes. 


ICING. 


413 


lOTNGr, 


Nothing  adds  more  to  the  elegance  of  a well  spread  table  then 
a handsomely  iced  and  ornamented  cake,  which  with  a little  care 
and  painstaking  can  as  well  be  prepared  at  home  as  ordered  from 
the  caterer,  and  at  much  less  expense.  For  a plain  quickly  made 
icing  for  a loaf  of  cake  of  ordinary  size  take  white  of  one  egg  and 
eleven  heaping  teaspoons  pulverized  sugar.  If  obtain^lble,  usethe 
confectioners’  sugar  known  as  ‘‘XXX.”  Be  careful  not  to  get  in  any 
of  the  yolk  of  the  eggs,  as  then  the  icing  will  not  beat  up  well,  and  be 
sure  the  bowl,  spoon  or  spatula,  and  all  utensils  used  are  perfectly 
free  from  grease.  Beat  well,  and  do  not  attempt  to  make  the  icing 
thick  and  stiff  by  adding  sugar  alone,  or  it  will  run.  Good  icing  de- 
pends upon  good  beating  as  well  as  quantity 
of  sugar.  Beat  whites  of  eggs  to  stiff  froth,  and 
add  pulverized  sugar  gradually,  beating  all 
the  time.  A wooden  spatula  is  better  than  a spoon  for  beating  in 
the  sugar.  There  are  various  opinions  about  the  length  of  time 
icing  should  be  beaten,  some  giving  half  an  hour,  others  a much 
shorter  time.  Some  break  the  whites  into  a broad  platter  and  at 
once  begin  adding  sugar,  and  keep  adding  gradually,  beating  well 
all  the  v/hile  until  all  sugar  is  dissolved  and  the  icing  is  perfectly 
smooth.  Thirty  minutes’,  beating  ought  to  be  sufficient.  Lastly, 
add  flavoring,  rose,  pine-apple  or  almond  for  white  or  delicate  cake, 
and  lemon  or  vanilla  for  dark  or  fruit  cake.  The  same  amount  of 
material,  prepared  with  the  whites  of  eggs  unbeaten,  will  make  one- 
third  less  icing  than  if  the  eggs  are  beaten  to  a stiff  froth  before 
adding. the  sugar;  but  those  who  prefer  this  method  think  the 
icing  is  enough  smoother  and  softer  to  pay  for  the  extra  quantity 
required.  There  is  a medium  method  much  used  by  the  best  of 


414 


TCING. 


housekeepers ; the  eggs  are  beaten  to  a slight  foam,  sugar  added 
gradually,  or  all  at  once,  and  when  thoroughly  incorporated,  flavor 
and  use.  Sometimes  the  whites  of  eggs  will  not  froth  readily,  when 
add  a pinch  of  alum,  sugar,  salt  or  soda  ; a teaspoon  lemon  juice  or 
a little  citric  acid  whitens  icing,  and  the  white  of  one  egg  whipped 
separately  and  beaten  in  just  before  putting  on  the  cake  makes  the 
icing  smooth  and  glossy.  A little  corn-starch  helps  to  thicken  ic- 
ing. If  the  flavor  is  lemon  juice,  allow  more  sugar  for  the  additional 
liquid. 

Have  the  icing  ready  when  the  cake  is  baked  and  be  sure  that 
it  is  thoroughly  beaten  before  removing  cake  from  oven ; if  pos- 
sible, have  some  one  beating  while  cake  is  being  removed.  Invert 
a common  tin  milk-pan,  placing  it  on  a clean  paper,  so  that  if  any 
icing  falls  off  it  can  be  used  again,  then  place  the  cake  on  the  pan, 
trim  oflT  all  unsightly  excrescences  with  a clean,  sharp  knife  and  ap- 
ply icing,  pouring  it  around  the  center  of  the  cake  and  smoothing  off 
as  quickly -as  possible  with  a knife  ; it  should  run  over  the  cake,  be- 
coming as  smooth  as  glass,  and  adhere  firmly  to  it.  If  the  icing  is 
a little  stiff  dip  the  knife  in  cold  water.  Dredging  the  cake  well 
with  flour  when  taken  from  the  oven  and  wiping  carefully  before  ic- 
ing will  keep  the  icing  from  running ; when  icing  only  the  top  of  cake, 
place  a rim  of  stiff  white  paper  around  it  to  keep  the  icing  in  place 
until  it  sets.  If  but  one  person  is  engaged  in  preparing  cake  and  ic- 
ing, and  must  necessarily  stop  beating  while  getting  the  cake  in 
readiness,  it  will  be  best  to  beat  the  icing  a few  minutes  again  be- 
fore placing  on  cake.  As  eggs  vary  in  size,  some  common  sense 
must  be  used  in  the  quantity  of  sugar.  Practice  only  will  teach  just 
how  stiff  icing  ought  to  be.  An  excellent  proportion  is  three-fourths 
teacup  pulverized  sugar  to  the  white  of  one  full-sized  egg,  but  more 
sugar  is  sometimes  required.  In  preparing  for  a large  party,  when 
it  is  inconvenient  to  ice  each  cake  as  it  is  taken  from  the  oven,  and 
a number  have  become  cold,  place  in  the  oven  to  heat  before  icing. 
If  wanted  very  nice,  put  the  icing  on  in  two  coats,  letting  the  first 
dry  before  putting  on  the  second,  when  the  icing  left  may  be  suffi- 
ciently thinned  with  water,  if  necessary,  to  work  smoothly,  or  more 
icing  may  be  prepared,  taking  care  to  have  it  just  soft  enough  to  run 
smoothly,  and  yet  not  run  off  cake — better  to  be  a little  too  stiff 
than  too  thin.  To  apply  the  second  coat,  place  the  icing  in  a lump 
in  center  of  cake,  and  let  it  run  level  of  its  own  accord  ; or  if  a lit- 


ICING. 


415 


tie  stiff,  spread  it  out  with  a knife,  taking  care  not  to  spread  it  quite 
to  edge  of  cake  (within  a quarter  of  an  inch),  as  it  will  run  to  the 
edge  of  itself ; if  it  is  not  fully  smooth,  place  a knife  under  the  cake 
and  shake  it  a little,  which  will  cause  all  the  rough  parts  to  become 
smooth.  To  ice  the  sides  of  the  cake,  add  a little  more  sugar  to  the 
icing,  and  beat  it  in  well ; then  with  the  knife  place  it  on  the  sides  of 
cake  until  fully  covered ; and  by  holding  the  knife  perpendicularly, 
with  the  edge  to  the  icing,  and  the  back  leaning  a little  towards  the 
icing,  draw  it  all  around  the  side  of  the  cake ; when  it  comes  round 
to  the  starting  point,  suddenly  give  the  knife  a twist,  and  turn  the 
back  from  the  icing,  and  at  the  same  time  and  by  the  same  motion, 
remove  the  edge  from  contact  v/ith  the  icing.  If  this  is  done  neatly 
and  quickly  one  will  hardly  be  able  to  find  where  it  is  joined.  The 
cake  now  needs  only  to  be  dried,  and  it  is  ready  for  the  ornamental 
icing  or  piping.  Ornaments,  such  as  gum  drops,  candies,  orange 
flowers  or  ribbons  should  be  put  on  while  the  icing  is  moist.  It  is 
nice  when  the  frosting  is  almost  cold,  to  take  a knife  and  mark  the 
cake  in  slices. 


Almond  Icing, — Blanch  half  pint  sweet  almonds  by  putting 
them  in  boiling  water,  taking  off  skins,  and  spreading  upon  a dry 
cloth  until  cold ; pound  a few  of  them  at  a time  in  a mortar  till  well 
pulverized : mix  carefully  whites  of  three  eggs  and  three-quarters 
pint  powdered  sugar,  add  almonds,  flavor  with  a teaspoon  vanilla  or 
lemon,  ice  the  cake  and  dry  in  a cool  oven  or  in  the  open  air  when 
weather  is  pleasant.  Or  take  two  cups  sugar,  pour  over  a half  cup 
boiling  water,  cook  until  ropy ; beat  whites  of  two  eggs,  stir  into 
sugar  and  beat  until  cold  ; add  flavoring  extract  (bitter  almonds  is 
best),  and  one  and  a half  cups  blanched  and  chopped  sweet  al- 
monds. 

Boiled  Icing.—^Qoi  white  of  one  egg  to  a stiff  froth ; boil  one 
cup  granulated  sugar  and  one-half  gill  or  four  tablespoons  water  till 
it  threads  when  dropped  from  spoon.  Pour  in  a fine  stream  while 
boiling  hot,  into  the  beaten  egg,  stirring  briskly  all  the  time  and  con- 
tinue stirring  the  mixture  in  the  “round  and  round”  way,  never  stop- 
ping till  icing  is  thick  and  cold.  Flavor  as  liked.  For  6onfectioner’ s 
Boiled  Icing^^  take  whites  of  six  eggs  and  beat  to  a stiff  froth  with 
half  pound  sifted  granulated  sugar.  Boil  another  half  pound  sugar 
with  a pint  water  (adding  piece  of  cream  tartar  size  of  a pea)  until 
a drop  taken  on  the  finger  (first  dip  the  finger  in  cold  water)  will 
^ull  into  a fine  thread  by  touching  with  the  thumb.  Then  pour  this 


ICING. 


llG 


into  the  whites  of  eggs,  stirring  very  swiftly  to  cook  all  alike,  and 
lastly  add  six  ounces  sifted  XXX  sugar.  Or,  boil  three-fourths  pint 
granulated  sugar,  moistened  with  four  tablespoons  hot  water,  briskly 
for  five  minutes  or  until  it  “jingles”  on  the  bottom  of  the  cup  when 
dropped  into  cold  water,  or  “ropes”  or  threads  when  dropped  from 
the  end  of  spoon.  Then  with  left  hand,  pour  the  boiling  syrup  upon 
the  well-beaten  whites  of  three  eggs  in  a small  stream,  while  beating 
hard  with  right  hand.  This  is  an  excellent  frosting  and  may  be 
flavored  as  liked.  If  preferred,  add  half  pound  sweet  almonds, 
blanched  and  pounded  to  a paste,  or  a cup  of  hickory-nut  meats, 
chopped  fine,  and  it  will  be  delicious.  Some  also  add  half  cup  stoned 
and  chopped  raisins.  This  will  ice  the  top  of  two  large  cakes.  An- 
other method  is  to  beat  Avhites  of  four  eggs  with  one  and  one-third 
pints  powdered  sugar,  stir  in  a cup  water  and  boil  all  together  until 
thick  and  creamy,  adding  flavoring  after  taking  from  fire.  For  Boiled 
' 'cing  Without  Eggs^  boil  a cup  granulated  sugar  four  or  five  min- 
* 3S  with  five  tablespoons  milk.  Stir  on  ice  or  in  cool  place  until  cold 
^ ud  creamy,  and  wait  until  cake  is  cold  before  icing.  Economical, 
and  preferred  by  some  to.  that  with  eggs.  Any  of  the  above  recipes 
makes  a nice  Chocolate  Icing  with  the  addition  of  grated  chocolate  to 
taste. 

'Chocolate  Icing. — Six  rounded  tablespoons  grated  chocolate, 
one  and  a half  cups  powdered  sugar,  whites  of  three  eggs ; beat  whites 
but  very  little  (they  must  not  become  white),  add  chocolate,  stir  it 
in,  then  pour  in  the  sugar  gradually,  beating  to  mix  it  well.  An- 
other method  used  by  c(»nfectioners  is  to  put  the  desired  quantity 
of  Baker’s  eagle  cocoa  in  a pan  and  place  it  in  boiling  water  until 
cocoa  is  dissolved,  then  add  powdered  sugar  to  taste,  and  beat  it  in 
tv^ell ; to  give  a gloss  add  also  the  whites  of  two  eggs,  slightly  whipped, 
to  every  pound  of  cocoa  used  ; beat  the  sugar  and  whites  of  eggs  well 
together,  and  with  a knife  spread  the  cocoa  (or  rather  the  chocolate 
Qow  that  it  has  the  sugar  in  it,  for  chocolate  is  simply  cocoa  sweet- 
ened), evenly  on  the  cake ; be  as  quick  as  possible,  for  as  soon  as  it  cools 
it  hardens.  If  simple  Cocoa  Icing  is  wanted  use  the  cocoa  and  whites 
of  eggs  only ; but  if  sweet  or  chocolate  icing,  add  sugar.  To  help  a 
little  in  first  attempt,  add  one  tablespoon  hot  water  to  a pound  cocoa ; 
this  will  keep  it  moist  and  liquid  a little  longer,  but  it  ^ will  take 
longer  to  harden.  What  is  known  as  Cream  Chocolate  Icing  is  pre- 
pared in  same  manner,  using  half  cocoa  and  half  pure  cream,  and 
sweetening  to  taste.  In  this  case  use  no  whites  of  eggs,  but  simply 
dissolve  the  co'^oa  as  above  described,  then  add  sugar,  and  afterwards 
gradually  stir  ix.  ov<>qm.  Cho<^olote  icing  is  aBc  4-’ sod  to  ic'^  ioll3r 
cakes  and  other  small  caKts,  anzi  cnocidi/i&  eclairs ; it  n:*ay  also  Oc 
used  as  an  icing  for  anything,  and  can  be  piped,  ornamented,  or 
decorated  with  Piping  Icing.  Cocoa  may  also  be^  mixed  with  plain 
icing ; add  little  or  much  cocoa  as  desired,  and  it  may  be  used  for 
icing  a cake  or  for  piping  or  ornamenting  in  the  same  manner  as 


ICING. 


417 


other  icing.  For  Chocolate  Icing  With  Gelatine^  soak  a teaspoon 
gelatine  one  or  two  hours  in  three  tablespoons  water.  Pour  on  it 
one-fourth  cup  boiling  water,  and  stir  in  one  and  two-thirds  cups 
powdered  sugar.  Grate  two  squares  chocolate  and  stir  into  this 
mixture.  Use  immediately.  Yoy  Boiled  Chocolate  Icing,  hedit  ouq 
and  two-thirds  cups  pulverized  sugar  into  unbeaten  whites  of  two 
eggs.  Grate  two  squares  chocolate,  and  put  it  and  one-third  cup 
sugar  and  four  tablespoons  boiling  water  in  small  frying-pan.  Stir 
over  a hot  lire  until  smooth  and  glossy,  and  then  stir  this  into  beaten 
whites  and  sugar.  Enough  for  two  loaves  or  one  layer  cake. 
Or  for  a much  richer  icing  boil  two  cups  granulated  sugar 
and  half  cup  water  together  for  five  minutes  and  add  small  cup 
grated  chocolate.  When  a drop  hardens  in  cold  water  stir  four 
whole  eggs  in  rapidly,  beating  all  the  while.  Cook  five  minutes,  stir- 
ring constantly,  and  flavor  with  vanilla,  if  liked.  Does  not  crack 
iior  break,  and  for  this  reason  is  highly  prized.  To  make  Chocolate 
Caramel  Icing, one  cup  brown  sugar,  one  square  Baker’s  choc- 
(date,  grated,  and,  one  tablespoon  water  or  milk ; simmer  gently 
twenty  minutes,  and  spread  on  cake  while  hot.  Or  boil  half  cup  milk, 
coffee-cup  sugar,  butter  size  of  an  egg  and  two  tablespoons  grated 
chocolate  twenty  minutes,  or  till  thick.  Flavor  with  vanilla,  or  son^p 
add  a pinch  best  pulverized  cinnamon.  To  ice  small  cakes  with 
this,  take  them  on  a fork  and  dip  into  the  icing  deep  enough  to  ice 
both  top  a^d  sides.  If  to  be  put  together  in  pyramidal  form,  ice  the 
bottom  ana  sides,  instead  of  top,  because  of  the  more  uniform  sur- 
face. To  keep  the  icing  from  becoming  cold  and  hard  while  using, 
Bet  in  a pan  of  hot  water  or  over  steam  until  all  are  iced.  The  above 
.caramel  is  nice  in  Avhich  to  dip  the  balls  made  in  French  Candy. 
For  Spiced  Chocolate  Icing,  warm  a half  cake  chocolate  in  the  oven 
ten  minr'*'es  ; add  a heaping  cup  of  sugar,  teaspoon  cinnamon,  half 
teaspoon  each  pulverized  cloves  and  ginger,  two  teaspoons  vanilla, 
pour  in  a little  water,  stir  all  well  together  and  melt  to  a smooth 
paste. 

Clear  Icing. — Mix  a cup  nice  gelatine  jelly  with  a teaspoon 
lemon  juice  and  whites  of  two  eggs  until  smooth,  and  pour  over  the 
cake._  If  the  cake  is  not  hot  enough  to  dry  it,  place  for  a few  min- 
utes in  a moderately  warm  oven. 

Confectioned s Icing. — Break  whites  of  four  eggs  into  a large 
shallow  platter  in  a cool  room — in  summer  set  on  ice — and  whip 
until  they  foam  but  do  not  whiten.  Sift  in  a pound  (one  and  one- 
third  pints)  powdered  sugar,  quite  slowly,  beating  all  the  time 
steadily  from  the  bottom  so  as  to  bring  up  every  drop  of  egg  at  each 
sweep  of  the  egg  whip,  and  so  continue  until  the  mixture  is  as  white 
and  fine  as  snow,  and  can  be  cut  with  a knife  as  clean  and  smooth  as 
if  it  were  cake,  when  it  is  ready  for  use.  Apply  in  two  coats.  Suf- 


418 


ICING. 


ficient  for  one  large  or  two  small  loaves  of  cake,  and  those  who  pre- 
fer a Hard  Icing  will  find  nothing  better. 

Corn-starch  Icing. — White  of  an  egg  beaten  to  a stifi*  froth,  ten 
heaping  teaspoons  powdered  sugar  and  one  of  corn-starch. 

Eggless  Icing. — To  one  heaping  teaspoon  laundry  starch  and 
just  enough  cold  water  to  dissolve  it,  add  a little  hot  water  and  cook 
in  a pan  set  in  hot  water  till  very  thick  (or  cook  in  a crock ; either 
will  prevent  its  burning  or  becoming  lumpy).  Stir  in  two  and  two- 
thirds  cups  sugar  while  the  starch  is  hot ; flavor  to  taste,  and  spread 
on  while  the  cake  is  a little  warm.  This  should  be  made  the  day 
before  using,  as  it  takes  longer  to  harden  than  when  made  with 
eggs,  but  it  will  never  crumble  in  cutting,  and  is  excellent. 

French  Icing. — Take  white  of  one  egg  with  twice  its  bulk  in 
water,  about  four  tablespoons,  and  beat  as  stiff  as  possible ; then  add 
XXX  sugar  till  as  thick  as  plain  icing,  and  teaspoon  flavoring.  It 
will  take  about  one  pint  sugar,  or  three-quarters  of  a pound.  This 
is  especially  nice  for  layer  cakes,  and  in  building  sprinkle  over  each 
layer  any  nut  meats  liked,  English  walnuts,  hickory  nuts  or 
blanched  almonds,  chopped,  and  for  top  layer  place  on  in  halves. 
One  large  egg  or  two  small  eggs  will  ice  three  layers.  Use  also  for 
top  of  large  cakes  but  is  not  nice  for  the  sides.  This  is  very  deli- 
cious, can  be  put  on  in  as  thick  a layer  as  wished,  and  is  like 
the  French  Candy  (uncooked),  except  more  water  is  used;  when 
making  it  one  can  use  part  for  icing  and  thicken  the  rest  for  the 
candy. 

Gelatine  Dissolve  one  teaspoon  gelatine  in  three  table 

spoon  warm  water, add  a cup  pulverized  sugar  and  beat  until  smooth 
Flavor  to  taste.  Or  soak  the  gelatine  in  a tablespoon  cold  water 
half  an  hour;  dissolve  in  two  tablespoons  hot  water;  add  one  cup 
powdered  sugar  and  stir  until  smooth. 

Glaze  Icing. — Stir  beaten  white  of  one  egg  with  a little  water  and 
set  over  boiling  water  until  the  mixture  boils ; then  put  in  a few 
drops  cold  water,  stir  in  a cup  powdered  sugar,  boil  to  a foam  and 
use.  Or  stir  into  one  pound  powdered  sugar,  one  tablespoon  cold 
water ; beat  whites  three  eggs  a little,  not  to  a stiff  froth,  and  add 
to  the  sugar  and  water;  put  in  a deep  bowl,  place  in  a vessel  of 
boiling  water  and  heat.  It  will  become  thin  and  clear,  afterward 
begin  to  thicken.  When  quite  thick  take  from  fire  and  stir  while  it 
cools  till  thick  enough  to  spread  with  a knife.  This  will  ice  several 
ordinary  sized  cakes. 

Isinglass  Icing. — Pour  a half  cup  boiling  water  on  a sheet  isin- 
glass and  stand  it  in  warm  place  to  dissolve  slowly.  AVhen  there  is 
no  scum  on  top  add  a pound  powdered  sugar  and  a heaping  teaspoon 


ICING. 


419 


corn-starch.  When  cakes  are  cold,  pour  the  icing  over,  smooth  it 
down  as  little  as  possible  and  set  away  in  a cool  place  to  harden. 
Nice,  and  much  easier  than  to  make  icing  with  eggs. 

Lemon  Icing. — Beat  whites  of  two  eggs  and  two  cups  sugar  to- 
gether, and  add  juice  and  part  of  the  grated  rind  of  two  lemons^ 
strained.  Or  make  Confectioner’s  Icing  and  add  the  strained  juice 
and  zest  of  one  lemon,  with  eight  tablespoons  more  powdered  sugar. 
Color  if  desired  with  a few 'drops  Yellow  Coloring.  Orange  Icing 
made  s^’me,  adding  also  teasjioon  lemon  juice. 

Marhle  Icing. — Cover  cake  with  any  plain  white  icing,  let  hard- 
en a little,  color  some  of  the  icing  with  chocolate  and  spread  it  over 
the  white,  and  so  on  as  many  layers  as  desired.  Spread  with  a knife 
and  dry  in  cool  oven. 

Meringue  Icing. — A nice  icing  for  pies,  puddings,  etc.,  is  made 
by  beating  the  whites  of  six  eggs  to  a very  firm  froth,  they  cannot 
be  beaten  too  stiff,  and  if  not  stiff  the  meringue  will  not  be  good. 
While  beating  add  a saltspoon  salt,  and  heaping  teaspoon  powdered 
sugar ; when  well  beaten  stir  in  well  but  very  lightly  half  a 
pound  (a  little  more  than  half  a pint)  powdered  sugar;  with  a 
knife  spread  a coating  of  the  meringue  all  over  the  pie  after  baking, 
and  if  wanted  ornamented  fill  a cone  with  the  meringue  icing  and 
proceed  to  work  out  some  design.  When 
finished  return  to  oven  to  take  a light  brown 
color.  Any  design  may  be  worked  with  this 
as  well  as  with  other  icing,  but  the  patterns 
are  larger  and  are  done  with  a cone  with  a 
larger  portion  cut  off  the  point.  For  centers 
of  meringue  pies  use  such  designs  as  a swan, 
an  ear  of  corn,  an  anchor,  a “true  lover’s 
knot,”  a Maltese  cross,  a bunch  of  grapes, 
or  whatever  fancy  dictates  ; the  pie  may  be 
decorated  with  fruit  jelly  in  addition  to  the 
meringue  piping,  putting  on  the  jelly  with  a 
cone,  and  in  the  same  manner  as  the  piping.  Chocolate  is  not  used 
on  meringue  work,  neither  is  the  meringue  ever  colored  except  a 
light  cream  ; pink  colored  sugar  is  sometimes  sprinkled  over  it.  To 
color  pink  simply  drop  a little  cochineal  color  on  some  granulated 
sugar,  and  rub  it  together  until  colored,  then  dry,  rub  it  apart  and 
keep  in  bottle  ready  for  use.  It  will  keep  its  color  for  years.  This 
icing  is  used  on  lemon  pies,  peach  pies,  etc. 

Orange  Icing. — Mix  a half  pound  powdered  sugar  with  one 
tablespoonful  each  orange  juice  and  boiling  water,  and  half  the  grat- 
ed rind  of  an  orange ; beat  till  fine  and  smooth,  strain,  and  spread 
on  the  cake,  while  still  warm,  about  an  eighth  of  an  inch  thick, 


420 


ICING. 


smoothing  it  carefully  with  a wet  knife.  This  is  especially  nice  for 
sponge  cake. 

Pearl  Icing. — Break  whites  of  three  eggs  in  clean  china  bowl 
with  a round  bottom.  Add  about  half  pound  finest  powdered  sugar 
and  beat  vigorously  with  a wooden  spatula  till  it  begins  to  thicken, 
then  add  level  saltspoon  cream  tartar  and  one  drop  indigo  blue ; add 
about  quarter  pound  sugar ; continue  beating  and  add  more  sugar, 
a teaspoon  at  a time,  until  the  icing  is  as  thick  as  wished,  using  in 
all  about  a pound. 

Plain  Icing. — Beat  whites  of  three  eggs  until  frothy,  not  white? 
adding  one  and  a third  pints  powdered  sugar  gradually  with  one 
hand,  beating  briskly  with  the  other.  Flavor  with  teaspoon  vanilla. 
Another  proportion  is  whites  of  two  eggs  to  a half  pound  sugar  (a 
little  more  than  a half  pint),  with  a little  lemon  juice  or  tartaric 
acid  to  whiten.  When  icing  sponge  cake  with  plain  icing  it  is  an 
improvement  to  first  grate  orange  peel  over  top  of  cake. 

Quick  Icing. — Put  cup  sugar  into  a bowl  with  a tablespoon  lemon 
juice  and  unwhipped  whites  of  two  eggs,  or  add  the  sugar  gradually. 
Beat  together  until  just  smooth  and  pour  over  the  cake ; if  the  cake 
is  not  hot  enough  to  dry  it,  place  in  a moderately  warm  oven. 

Snow  Icing. —VvX  one  pint  white  sugar,  unbeaten  whites  of 
three  eggs  and  a teaspoon  rose  or  lemon  extract  into  an  earthen 
dish,  stir  well  together  and  set  in  saucepan  boiling  water ; stir  con- 
stantly and  cook  eight  or  ten  minutes,  or  until  white  and  glistening. 
Put  on  cake  while  icing  is  warm,  as  it  hardens  quickly. 

Soft  Icing. — Mix  a half  pound  finely  pulverized,  sifted  sugar, 
with  a tablespoon  boiling  water,  and  the  same  of  lemon  or  any  fruit 
juice,  and  spread  at  once  on  the  cake  while  still  warm  from  the 
oven,  about  an  eighth  of  an  inch  thick.  Especially  nice  for  all  kinds 
of  sponge  cake,  and  other  light  and  dry  cakes,  such  as  snow  cake,  etc. 

Transparent  Icing. — Boil  a pound  granulated  sugar  with  a half 
pint  water  until  thick  as  mucilage  : then  rub  with  a wooden  spoon 
against  sides  of  pan  until  white  and  milky.  Stir  in  one  teaspoon 
vanilla  extract  and  pour  while  hot  over  the  top  of  the  cake,  com- 
pletely covering  it. 

Tutti  FrutU  Icing. — Boil  a pint  granulated  sugar  with  a half 
cup  water  until  it  ‘^-threads.”  Pour  this  into  the  well-frothed  whites 
of  two  eggs  and  beat  till  cool;  mix  together  a half  pound  blanched 
and  chopped  sweet  almonds,  and  a quarter  pound  sultana  or  seed- 
less raisins,  swelled  in  hot  water,  and  the  same  of  finely  chopped 
citron,  a.nd  stir  into  the  icing.  Very  nice  for  sponge  and  fruit  cake. 

Water  Icing. — Take  any  quantity  powdered  sugar  required,  add 
enough  cold  water  to  form  a thick  paste  (it  will  not  take  much); 


ICING. 


421 


beat  well,  and  if  too  thin  so  that  it  runs  too  much,  add  a little  more 
sugar.  To  every  pound  sugar,  add  a level  teaspoon  cream  tartar ; 
when  this  icing  is  prepared,  spread  it  with  a knife  over  the  cake,  and 
allow  it  to  dry  ; then  ornament  or  decorate  it  with  Piping  Icing  or 
currant  jelly.  This  water  icing  may  also  be  colored  a light  shade  of 
■pink  with  cochineal,  or  a light  cream  color  with  saffron.  For  a 
mauve  color,  add  a drop  of  indigo  blue  to  the  pink  color ; but  none 
of  these  colors  must  be  decided,  only  a simple  tint.  Water  icing  is 
used  for  tops  of  pound,  sponge  and  jelly  cakes. 

Yellow  Icing. — Take  the  yolk  of  one  egg  to  nine  heaping  tea- 
spoons powdered  sugar,  and  flavor  with  vanilla.  Use  day  it  is  made. 


Ornameiital  Icing. 


Ornamental  icing  consists  in  working  two  or  more  colors  of 
icing  on  one  surface — such,  for  instance,  as  pink  and  white,  or  choco- 
late and  white,  either  with  or  without  the  addition  of  crystallizing. 
To  ice  a cake  white  and  pipe  or  ornament  it  with  pink  pipery,  or  ice 
it  with  pink  or  chocolate  icing  and  pipe  it  with  white  icing,  would 
constitute  ornamental  icing.  But  there  is  another  method  called 
^flnlaid,”  which  consists  of  different  colored  icing  on  the  same  sur- 
face, not  simply  a different  colored  piping  on  icing.  To  do  this  take 
a cone,  cut  a fine  point  off^  fill  it  as  instructed  in  Artistic  Piping, 
draw  fine  lines  first  straight  down  one  inch  apart,  then  across  at 
same  distance  at  right  angles,  forming  squares  one  inch  across.  Fill 
these  in  alternately  with  either  white  or  pink  and  white,  and  then 
chocolate  icing  or  pink  and  chocolate,  which  leaves  the  squares  in 
two  colors,  as  they  appear  on  a chess-board.  The  icing  must  be 
soft  enough  to  just  run  smoothly ; the  lines  will  prevent  it  from  run- 
ning together.  Any  desired  pattern  may  be  worked  in  this  manner 
by  simply  running  a line  of  piping  to  form  the  design,  then  filling 
in  as  above.  This  may  be  varied  by  marking  out  any  design,  and 
with  a small  pastry  brush  washing  it  over  with  white  of  egg  or  gum- 
water,  then  covering  with  fine  granulated  sugar,  either  white 
or  colored ; or  cover  it  with  powdered  chocolate  or  rolled  rock  candy, 
either  pink  or  white ; shake  off  what  will  not  stick,  and  the  design 
will  be  covered  with  sugar;  pipe  around  the  edge  of  the  design  with 
a fine  cone  of  Piping  Icing,  and  it  is  complete. 


422 


ORNAMENTAL  ICING. 


Crystallization. — Simply  cover  the  cake  while  the  icing  is  v/et 
with  granulated  sugar,  white  or  pink.  Or  use  pink  or  white  sugar 
or  rock  candy  crushed.  To  crystallize  only  a portion  of  the  icing, 
and  that  in  any  particular  design,  first  allow  the  icing  to  dry,  then 
wash  the  part  to  be  crystallized  with  white  of  egg  or  gum-water,  and 
cover  with  sugar ; then  shake  off  what  will  not  remain  on. 

Artistic  Piping  loith  Diagrams. — For  the  benefit  of  those  v/ho 
wish  to  excel  in  the  art  of  ornamenting  bride  or  other  cakes  with 
icing,  technically  called  “piping,”  a sheet  of  diagrams  is  given  which 
almost  explains  itself,  and  will  require  but  little  study  by  those 
having  a taste  for  artistic  wmrk,  and  by  mastering  this  sheet  of 
diagrams  before  attempting  anything  more  elaborate,  one  will  soon 
be  able  to  ornament  a cake  equal  to  an  expert.  This  applies  to  all 
kinds  of  ornamenting,  as  it  is  all  done  in  the  same  manner,  no  mat- 
ter whether  the  material  used  be  butter,  lard,  or  savor}^  j^Hy  for  the 
decoration  of  tongues,  roast  chicken,  hams,  etc.,  or  sweet  jelly,  choco- 
late or  sugar  for  the  ornamentation  of  all  kinds  of  cakes.  To  use 
jelly  for  decorating  or  piping  cakes,  set  in  a place  where  it  will  get 
just  warm  enough  to  pass  through  the  cone  with  a gentle  pressure  ; 
in  cold  weather  it  is  well  to  also  beat  it  with  a spoon,  making  it  of 
uniform  consistency.  When  ready  for  use  fill  cone  with  it,  and 
proceed  as  directed  for  piping,  using  cone  as  if  it  contained  icing. 

Piping  Icing. — Prepare  in  same  mLanner  as  plain  icing,  but 
make  stiff  enough  to  retain  its  shape,  or  at  least  so  that  it  will  not 
run  smoothly  by  adding  a little  more  sugar  (a  teaspoon  perhaps), 
and  a little  extra  beating.  To  use  it,  fill  the  meringue  bag  already 
described  in  confectionery,  or  have  ready  some  paper  cones,  made 
by  folding  or  rolling  up  a piece  of  paper  in  form  of  a cornet,  and  se- 
curing joint  with  a little  mucilage  or  white  of  eggs  (see  No.  1,  in  page 
r)f  diagrams)  ; with  a sharp  knife  cut  off  point  of  cone  so  as  to  leave 
hole  aii}^  size  needed,  from  a pin’s  size  to  half  an  inch  in  diameter 
(see  2,  for  plain  round  work).  If  a star  is  wished  (3),  cut  off  point 
of  cone  to  form  an  aperture  equal  to  center  of  star,  then  cut  out 
points,  as  shown  in  22.  If  for  a leaf,  cut  as  shown  in  24.  To  save 
trouble  of  cutting  cones  use  little  brass  tubes,  made  for  the  purpose, 
to  be  had  at  a cost  of  from  ten  to  fifteen  cents  each.  In  using  these 
cut  off  ]ooint  of  paper  cone  large  enough  to  allow  tube  to  come 
through  half  its  length.  Fill  the  cones  three-fourths  full  with  pre- 
pared icing,  fold  down  top  securely,  so  the  icing  wall  not  force  back, 
and  commence  the  ornamentation.  Have  the  cake  ready  iced,  and 
mark  out  with  a lead-pencil  as  lightly  as  possible  the  design  on  the 
cake ; then  go  over  design  with  the  cones  of  icing,  as  hereafter 
described,  until  the  design  is  complete.  It  is  of  course  necessary 
to  have  first  mastered  the  diagrams  in  order  to  so  arrange  the  vari- 
ous ones  as  to  form  a harmonious  whole  and  produce  an  artistic 
design. 


DIAGRAMS. 


423 


424 


ORNAMENTAL  ICING. 


To  practice  the  use  of  the  cones,  procure  a perfectly  smooth 
walnut  board,  about  twelve  inches  square.  This  being  dark  and  the 
(cing  white  the  work  can  be  easily  seen,  and  if  every  thing  is  clean 
the  sugar  need  not  be  wasted,  as  it  can  be  scraped  off  and  used  for 
other  purposes. 

Fill  a cone  with  icing,  take  it  in  left  hand,  and  place  thumb  of 
right  hand  on  the  folded  part  or  top ; use  thumb  to  press  on  cone 
to  force  out  icing  at  point,  in  same  manner  as  when  using  a syringe. 
Force  out  the  icing  with  regular  and  even  pressure,  and  draw  a 
number  of  fine  lines,  as  even  and  straight  as  possible,  by  dropping 
point  of  cone  in  left  hand  corner  of  board,  and  with  an  onward  mo- 
tion, in  accordance  with  the  flow  of  icing,  which  wfill  be  little  or 
much,  in  proportion  to  pressure  given  tube,  run  it  straight  on 
to  right  hand  corner  (4).  This  line  can  be  made  larger  by  pressing 
harder  on  cone.  Repeat  this,  giving  cone  a zigzag  motion  (5) ; then 
c ommence  light,  gradually  increasing  pressure,  to  produce  a line 
small  at  one  end  and  large  at  the  other  (6) ; reverse  by  beginning 
heavy  and  finishing  light  (7).  Disconnect  cone  from  icing,  by 
taking  off  pressure  from  cone,  and  giving  a quick,  sudden  upward 
jerk.  Do  some  cross  stringing  (8),  then  9 to  17;  with  same  cone, 
held  perpendicularly,  (pushing  the  icing  out  till  drop  is  required  size, 
then  suddenly  detach  in  manner  above  mentioned),  drop  different 
sized  dots  ( 18  to  20) ; then  commencing  at  large  end  first  and  gradu- 
ally drawing  fine  thread,  do  No.  21.  Take  the  star  cut  cone  (22), 
and  drop  star  dots,  same  as  in  18,  19,  and  20 ; with  a circular  or 
rotary  motion,  make  roses  (23) ; then  repeat  with  the  star  cone  all 
done  with  plain  round  cone.  Next  take  the  leaf  cone  (24),  and  by 
beginning  at  large  end  of  leaf  first,  and  gradually  drawing  to  a point, 
make  the  leaf  as  long  as  desired  (25)  ; form  veins  in  leaf  by  giving 
cone  a wavy  motion.  Then  put  tw^o  together  (26),  and  with  star 
cone  add  a rose  (27),  then  three  leaves  and  a rose  (28)  ; then  four, 
as  in  29;  then  five,  with  simple  plain  dot  in  center  (30).  With 
plain  round  cone,  make  31,  adding  21  for  top  finish  ; with  same  cone, 
make  stems  of  32  and  33,  and  with  leaf  cone  add  leaves.  Do  the  same 
in  34,  adding  a ring  of  dots,  also  a rose,  with  star  cone ; next,  with 
same  plain  round  cone,  do  35,  by  giving  cone  a wavy  motion  ; also 
36,  by  giving  it  a sudden  jerk,  first  to  left,  then  to  right,  then  straight 
down  middle,  as  shown  in  37. 

This  seems  a good  deal  on  paper,  but  can  all  be  done  on  a board 
very  easily  if  one  has  the  patience  to  go  slowly  at  first. 

Having  gone  thus  far,  one  may  now  forrn  an  original  design  by 
making  whatever  combination  fancy  dictates,  from  the  scrolls,  lines, 
curves,  etc.,  shown  in  diagrams ; it  may  be  somewhat  crude  at  first, 
but  practice  will  make  perfect.  As  an  example,  wdiich  will  explain 
the  whole,  first  make  a simple  combination,  producing  a bunch  of 
grapes.  With  leaf  cone  make  four  leaves  (38),  and  with  plain  round 


ORNAMENTAL  ICING. 


425 


cone  add  stem ; also,  with  same  kind  of  cone,  only  cut  a little  larger 
to  make  a larger  drop,  add  grapes  by  making  a succession  of  dots, 
gradually  making  higher  in  the  middle  (39) ; then  as  a finish,  with 
plain  small  cone  add  the  scroll  shown  running  over  the  grapes.  An- 
other illustration  : To  make  a large  leaf,  in  imitation  of  those  used 
on  bride’s  cake,  first  mark  the  outline  of  leaf  (40),  and  with  plain 
round  cone  run  cross  lines,  as  shown  in  8,  also  in  41 ; then  with 
plain  round  cone  add  the  edge  in  dots,  shown  in  20  and  42.  For 
further  illustration,  see  cut  for  top  of  jelly  or  other  cake  (page 
429)  made  up  of  grapes  and  leaves  described.  Heavy  and 
light  work  may  be  done  with  same  cone  by  adding  pressure; 
for  instance,  if  using  a cone  with  fine  point,^  by  drawing  with 
a regular  motion  and  even  pressure,  a line  of  icing  is  produced  the 
same  size  as  the  hole  though  which  it  comes ; but  if  the  c one  is  drawn 
along  slower  than  icing  comes  out,  a heavier  line  results ; to  make 
a very  fine  line  Avith  same  cone,  use  even  pressure,  but  draw  cone 
along  very  fast ; bear  in  mind  there  is  a limit  to  size,  and  when  that 
is  reached  to  press  harder  ivill  burst  the  cone ; ivhen  the  limit  is 
reached,  if  a larger  flow  is  wanted  have  another  cone  ivith  larger 
opening  at  point.  This  applies  to  all  shapes,  whether  round,  star,  or 
leaf.  The  cone  may  be  used  same  as  a pen,  pressing  heavy  and  light ; 
for  example,  if  making  a scroll,_like  11,  with  fine  round  cone,  when 
the  bend  of  scroll  is  reached  giving  the  cone  a little  more  pressure 
causes  more  sugar  to  flow^  thus  producing  the  fullness  in  the  curve ; 
when  this  is  done  withdraw^  pressure  and  continue  as  before. 


Bride's  Cake. — A reference  to  the  design  for  bride’s  cake  top, 
No.  1,  will  show  that  it  is  a combination  of  the  scrolls,  etc.,  given  in 

the  diagrams  for  artistic  piping ; it  is  not 
given  as  a design  or  a work  of  art,  but  sim- 
ply to  show  hoAV  those  scrolls,  etc.,  can  be 
connected  and  arranged  so  as  to  form  a de- 
sign. After  making  this,  one  will  be  sur- 
nised  to  find  hoiv  easy  a task  a second  will 
)e.  Note  that  this  design  is  made  up  of  36, 
20,  13,  18,  6,  8,  and  21  of  the  diagrams ; 
also  note  that  tivo  leaves  are  of  one 
pattern  and  two  of  another.  When  pip- 
ing cake  make  all 
pattern,  whichever 


Bride’s  Cake  Top,  No.  1 

are  given  simply  to  illustrate  the  diagrams, 
cake  is  given  for  refer- 
ence if  wished  to  pipe 
the  side.  This  is  17  in 


four  leaves  of  same 
preferred.  The  two 
A cut  for  the  side  of 


Sides  for  Cakes. 


the  diagrams,  and  the  bottom  is  finished  off  ivith  simple,  plain  round 
dots  (2  in  diagrams),  all  of  one  size.  The  cut  for  bride’s  cake  top  No. 


426 


ORNAMENTAL  ICING. 


IS 


Bride’s  Cake  Top  No.  2. 

also  admissible  to 


2 is  more  correct  as  a design,  and  should  be  attempted  after 
practicing  on  design  No.  1.  These  designs  will  answer  for  top  of 

any  cake  as  well  as  bride’s  cake ; and  for 
latter,  use  nothing  but  white  icing,  and 
white  piping,  and  in  the  center  marked  “for 
vase,”  insert  a vase  for  bouquet,  or  spray  of 
flowers.  The  addition  of  a few  sugar  roses 
and  silver  leaves,  procurable  at  all  confec- 
tioners, will  add  to  the  effect.  Place  the 
cake  on  a lace  paper,  on  a silver  or  plated 
salver.  The  use  of  orange  blossoms  is 
not  imperative  in  the  decoration  of 
bride’s  cake,  though  generally  used.  It 
use  pink  roses  or  other  flowers,  very  spar- 
ingly, or  even  yellow  to  match  with  the  orange  blossoms,  or  in  place 
of  them ; but  use  none  rather  than  too  many.  If  the  side  of  bride’s 
cake  is  not  piped,  place  a silver  band  round  it.  This  can  be  pro- 
cured of  any  confectioner. 

Dessert  Cake. — This  consists  of  either  a pound  or  sponge  cake 
mixture  baked  in  a high  mold ; if  no  other  is  at  hand  use  an  ice- 
cream mold  as  represented  in  cut.  Thoroughly  clean  and  dry  the 
mold,  then  warm  and  butter  it  with  a brush  (by  warm- 
ing it  the  butter  goes  in  all  parts),  turn  it  bottom  up  to 
drain  out  all  excess  of  butter,  dust  with  sifted  flour, 
giving  it  a knock  to  remove  any  excess  of  flour ; place 
it,  small  end  down,  in  a tin  or  pasteboard  box  to  pre- 
vent its  falling  over,  fill  it  three-fourths  full  with  the 
cake  mixture  and  bake  in  steady  heat.  Remove  it 
from  mold,  and  when  cold,  if  to  be  ornamented, 
have  ready  some  icing  thin  enough  to  just  run 
smoothly  but  not  run  off.  Place  cake  on  a 
plate,  and  with  a spoon  place  the  icing  on  top 
of  cake,  and  let  it  run  down  the  sides ; continue 
this  until  all  parts  are  covered  ; let  it  drain  ^ake. 

down  a minute  or  so,  then  place  a knife  under  bottom 
of  cake,  remove  to  another  plate,  and  set  in  warm  place 
to  dry.  This  method  of  icing  shows  up  the  pattern  of  the 
cake  nicely.  To  ornament  the  cake,  simply  pipe  it,  as  before 
described,  allowing  pattern  of  cake  to  be  the  guide ; where  there 
is  no  pattern  ornament  it  as  fancied,  but  usually  the  pattern  of  cake 
will  furnish  the  design.  In  an  ice-cream  mold  there  is  not  much 
pattern  further  than  fluting.  A cut  of  one  baked  in  a pyramid  ice- 
cream mold  is  given,  together  with  some  idea  as  to  how  to  ornament 
it.  Where  the  dots  appear,  substitute  red  and  yellow  gum  drops,  if 
desired.  When  the  cake  is  piped  set  it  on  a plate  or  salver  on  lace 
paper,  place  a bouquet  or  spray  of  flowers  on  top  and  add  a few  silver 


ORNAMENTAL  ICING. 


427 


leaves.  It  looks  very  pretty  iced  a light  pink  and  piped  in  white  j 
but  do  not  use  chocolate  icing,  as  it  sets  so  soon,  unless  pretty  well 
accustomed  to  it. 

Jelly  Cake. — Trim  off  edge  of  cake,  and  give  it  a thin  coating 
of  Water  Icing,  have  a cone  of  Piping  Icing  ready  and  proceed  to  work 
out  the  design  given  in  cut.  After  making  that,  any  other  can  be 

easily  made.  With  cone  of  white  icing 
or  pink,  if  preferred,  pipe  on  the  white 
lines  in  cut  and  fill  in  between  these 
lines  with  fruit  jelly,  using  a cone  filled 
with  jelly ; next,  with  the  leaf  cone  pipe 
on  the  leaves  for  the  grapes,  as  de- 
scribed in  diagrams  for  Artistic  Piping, 
No  38 ; then  with  plain  round  cone 
pipe  on  the  grapes,  as  described  in  No. 
39,  in  diagrams.  The  edge  is  simple 
plain  dots  of  white  icing ; see  diagram 
No.  2.  The  bunch  of  grapes  may  be 
piped  on  with  fruit  jelly  instead  of 
Jelly  Cake  Top.  iciiig  ; chocolato  icing  instead  of 

water  icing  may  also  be  used  for  the  top.  Then  pipe  in  icing  and 
jelly  as  before,  or  ice  with  jelly  instead  of  either  chocolate  or  water 
icing.  In  that  case,  where  jelly  was  used  between  the  white  lines  of 
icing,  use  chocolate  or  pink  icing.  Or  dispense  with  the  top  icing 
of  either  jelly,  chocolate,  or  water  icing,  if  wished,  and  simply  work 
out  the  design  as  shown  in  the  white  piping  and  jelly.  But  the  above 
is  most  artistic. 

Charlotte  Russe. — This  maybe  made  of  either  sponge  or  pound- 
cake mixture,  and  baked  in  a fancy  mold,  but  if  this  is  not  at  hand 
an  ordinary  two-quart  ice-cream  mold  will  answer  the  purpose.  Af- 
ter being  baked  and  completely  cooled,  carefully  scoop  T 

out  the  inside,  leaving  the  walls  an  inch  thick,  and  fill  j 

with  whipped  cream  or  russe  filling.  Ice  the  cake  with  thin 
icing,  either  pink  or  white,  and  pipe  in  contrasting  colors. 

Thus,  if  iced  white,  it  should  be  piped  pink,  and  vice 
versa.  Further  ornamentation  can  be  made  by  a proper  dis- 
tribution of  pastilles,  crystallized  fruits,  etc.,  and  the  whole 
surmounted  by  a small  spray  or  bouquet  of  flowers.  Another 
way  of  making  is  to  use  stale  sponge  or  pound-cake ; first  cut  the  base 
Avith  a sharp  knife  (see  figure  1 in  cut),  then  a piece  as  in  figure 
2,  then  figure  3.  Then  hollow  out  cake  as  aboA^e,  ( see  dotted  line  in 
1 and  2)  and  fill  Avith  cream ; then  piece  3 is  added  and  secured. 
Next  take  a thin  piece  of  cake,  not  more  than  a quarter  of  an  inch 


428 


ORNAMENTAL  ICING. 


in  thickness,  and  cut  out  pieces  4,  5,  6,-  7 and  8,  and  set  aside  for 
future  use.  Then  take  the  artist’s  spatula  and  cover  the 
wholerusse  with  red  or  some  other  colored  jelly.  This  done, 
place  on  the  pieces  4,  5,  6,  7 and  8,  in  their  respective 
QZD  places — the  j ^lly  v/ill  hold  them.  Leave  the  cut  part  out- 
side,  so  that  none  of  the  baked  parts  will  show,  and  the  de- 
sired  effect  is  produced.  Next  pipe  and  otherwise  ornament 
the  russe  as  heretofore  directed  and  finish  the  whole  by  adding  a spray 
or  bouquet  of  flowers  on  top,  or  with  a bouquet 
of  leaves  piped  on  with  a leaf  tube.  Another  way 
to  make  the  russe  is  to  cut  the  base  out  of 
a solid  piece  of  cake  ; make  the  hole  and  fill  with 
cream  ; lay  on  that  a thin  piece  of  cake.  Then  with 
a cone  and  tube  pile  up  the  cream  in  pyramid 
shape.  Have  ready  six  strips  cut  the  proper 
shape,  i.  e.,the  same  width  at  the  bottom  as  one 
of  the  six  sections  of  the  base,  and  gradually 
tapering  to  the  top.  Place  these  pieces  in  their 
proper  position,  fasten  them  with  a little  icing, 
cover  the  whole  with  jelly,  as  in  the  other  case, 
or  leave  plain.  In  either  case  pipe  and  otherwise 
ornament  it.  If  preferable,  place  the  strips  to  charlotte  Russe. 
form  piece  3,  securing  them  with  icing ; then  force  cream  through 
the  opening  on  top. 

Chantilly  Custard. — The  plates  from  1 to  4,  inclusive,  show 
the  manner  of  making  the  receptacle  for  the  custard,  which  is  thus 
described : First,  procure  a mold  for  sponge-cake 
or  jelly,  about  one  quart  or  three  pints  size,  with  a 
fancy  fruit  or  flower  top  (see  plate  No.  1).  Bake 
in  this  a cake  of  sponge  or  plain  pound  mixture, 

preferred,  and  when  baked  and  cold — it  is  all  the 

better  if  kept  for  a day  or  two — cut  off  the  top  (see  figures  2 and  3), 
and  ice  it  with  thin  white  icing.  When  thoroughly  dry,  lightly  col- 
or the  different  fruits  or  flowers  with  their  natural  colors.  Do  not 
lay  on  the  colors  too  heavily,  or  the  effect  will  be  spoiled.  Next  cut 
out  center  of  cake  (see  figure  1),  and  fill  cavity  thus  made  with  a 
boiled  custard,  adding  chopped  almonds  if  liked.  • 

When  the  custard  is  set  and  cold  replace  the  top  as  in  " " 
figure  2,  and  pipe  the  outside  of  cake  in  any  w^ay  liked,  following  the 
^ ^ design  here  given,  or  the  design  for 

dessert  cake,  or  selecting  from  pa.ge  of 
diagrams.  The  light  and  dark  balls 
at  the  bottom  of  the  design  given  are 
intended  to  represent  pink  and  yellow  pastilles  placed  alternately 


ORNAMENTAL  ICING. 


429 


Chantilly  Custard. 

which  would  be  charged 


(see  figure  6).  But  a much  easier,  cheaper,  and  mor^effective  mode 
is  simply  to  stick  on  gum-drops  of 
different  colors.  If  a good,  clear 
white  gum-drop  can  be  procured  use 
the  three  colors  alternately — red, 
yellow  and  white — and  the  effect  is 
very  nice.  The  beaut)^  of  such  a 
piece  of  work  amply  repays  any 
lady  who  has  the  time  and  taste,  for 
the  trouble  of  mastering  the  accom- 
plishment, and  for  the  small  cost 
of  material.  The  cost  of  the  lat- 
ter, when  compared  with  the  price 

professional  caterer  for  a similar  piece  of  vrork,  is  very  small. 

Raised  Pie. — Make  dough  as  for  Meat  Pie ; roll  half  inch 
thick  and  cut  out  the  base,  (2),  prick  with  a fork  to  prevent 
blistering,  and  lay  aside  on  the  pan  ready  for 
baking.  Then  prepare  the  oval  bottom,  (3),  wash 
over  with  egg,  and  place  evenly  on  cen- 
ter of  base.  Now  roll  out  dough,  half  an 
inch  thick,  in  a narrow  strip,  long  enough 
to  go  all  round  oval  bottom  (measure  out- 
side of  oval  by  passing  a string  around  it)  ; 
cut  straight  and  even,  one  inch  wide. 

Wet  ends,  which  should  be  cut  slanting  to 
make  fit  closely,  and  lower  edge,  and  wrap 
this  around  the  oval  piece  which  lies  on  base,  join- 
ing ends  and  bottom  edge  securely.  Now  fill  case  to  within  half  an  inch 
of  top  with  bran,  place  over  it 
a thin  cover  of  dough  (ivith 
small  hole  in  center  ) ; wash 
the  outside  (except  top,  which 
only  serves  to  keep  sides  in 
place, and  is  not  used ) with  egg, 
and  bake  in  a moderate  oven 
till  brown.  When  cold,  cut  out 
top,  turn  out  bran,  and  shell 
is  ready  for  filling.  To  make  cornucopias,  fold  up  dough  the  same  as 
in  making  a paper  cone,  and  also  fill  with  bran.  Bake  separately  from 
pie.  Now  fill  shell  with  a meat  or  game  filling  as  in  Meat  Pies  ; place 
jelly  (cut  in  pieces  one-half  inch  square)  on  top  (6),  and  mold  a but- 
ter lamb  and  place  on  top  of  it,  (7).  Add  the  chopped  parsley,  (8)  ; 
also  place  the  cornucopias  in  position.  Place  cut  roots  (4)  one  in  each 
cornucopia  (9) ; place  sliced  lemon  on  top  edge  and  add  small  root 
flowers  at  base  of  cornucopias,  securing  them  with  butter.  Pipe  side 
of  pie  as  illustrated,  using  butter  instead  of  sugar. 


430 


JAMS  AND  JELLIES. 


JAMS  AND  JELLIES. 


It  is  as  important  when  making  jams  as  when  canning  tn??:' 
only  perfect  fruit  be  used,  as  if  fruit  has  passed  tne  ripe  stage  and 
begun  to  ferment  in  the  slightest  degree  the  jam  will  not  keep  well, 
The  fruit  should  be  carefully  cleaned  and  thofougldy  bruised,  as 
mashing  it  before  cooking  prevents  it  from  becoming  hard. 
Cook  in  a porcelain-lined  or  granite  iron -ware  preserving 
kettle.  Never  put  fyuit  or  fruit  juice  in  tin,  either 
to  let  stand  or  to  cook.  Boil  the  fruit  fifteen  or 
twenty  minutes  and  skim  before  adding  the  sugar, 
as  the  fiavor  is  thus  better  preserved,  usually  ah 
lowing  three-quarters  of  a pound  sugar,  granulated 
is  best,  to  a pound  of  fruit — by  measure  a scant 
pint  sugar  to  quart  whole  fruit,  or  pint  when 
mashed;  and  then  boil  half  an  hour  longer^ 
skimming  if  necessary.  Have  a plate  at  hand  for  the  skimmings, 
which  should  be  added  to  vinegar  barrel,  as  directed  in  Economical 
Vinegar.  Use  same  utensils  in  making  jams  as  in  Canning  Fruit,  and 
it  is  also  convenient  to  have  a plate  upon  which  to  put  spoon,  dipper, 
etc.,  when  not  in  use.  If  loaf  sugar  is  used  it  should  be  dried  and 
broken  into  small  pieces  before  mixed  with  fruit.  If  left  in  large 
lumps  it  will  be  a long  time  in  dissolving,  and  if  crushed  to  powder 
it  will  make  the  jam  look  thick  instead  of  clear  and  bright.  Do  not 
remove  lid  from  range,  as  this  will  be  likely  to  make  the  jam  burn. 
To  prevent  scorching  while  cooking,  jams  require  almost  constant 
stirring,  and  every  house-keeper  should  be  provided  with  ..  small 
paddle  with  handle  at  right  angles  with  the  blade  (similar  to  an 
apple-butter  ^‘stirrer, only  smaller),  to  be  used  in  making  jams  and 


JAMS  AND  JELLIES. 


431 


marmalades.  Jams  are  usually  made  from  the  more  juicy  berrieSj 
such  as  blackberries,  currants,  raspberries,  strawberries,  etc. ; marma- 
lades from  the  firmer  fruits,  such  as  pine-apples,  peaches  and  apri- 
cots. Both  require  the  closest  attention,  as  the  slightest  degree  of 
burning  ruins  the  flavor.  They  must  be  boiled  sufficiently,  and 
have  plenty  of  sugar  to  keep  well.  To  tell  when  any  jam  or  mar- 
malade is  sufficiently  cooked,  take  out  some  on  a plate  and  let  it 
cool.  If  no  juice  or  moisture  gathers  about  it,  and  it  looks  dry  and 
glistening,  it  is  done  thoroughly.  Pour  in  small  cans,  jars  or  glasses, 
let  cool,  and  either  seal  as  canned  fruit,  or  secure  like  jelly,  by  first 
pressing  paper,  cut  to  fit  glasses,  dipped  in  alcohol  or  brandy,  down 
close  on  fruit,  and  then  putting  on  the  tin  covers ; or  if  one  has  not 
covers,  larger  papers,  brushed  on  the  inside  with  white  of  egg,  with 
the  edges  turned  down  over  the  outside  of  the  glasses.  Keep  in  a 
cool,  dry,  dark  place.  Examine  every  two  or  three  weeks  for  the 
first  two  months,  and  if  there  are  any  signs  of  mold  or  fermentation 
the  jam  must  be  boiled  over  again.  When  jelly  glasses  or  glass 
cans  are  used  for  either  jams  or  jellies,  as  a precaution  against 
breaking  when  the  hot  mixture  is  poured  in,  prepare  the  cans  or 
glasses  as  directed  in  last  method  given  on  page  146  of  Canning 
Fruits.  It  has  recently  been  found  that  cotton  is  one  of  the  best 
coverings  for  any  preparation  of  fruit,  as  neither  light,  air  nor  mois- 
ture easily  penetrates  it.  Make  a covering  of  the  cotton  for  the  top 
of  jelly  and  jam  glasses  and  tie  down  over  the  tin  covers  or  papers. 
Some  housekeepers  have  excellent  success  in  keeping  fruit  by  pour- 
ing over  tops  of  cans  clarified  butter  or  mutton  tallow,  a half  inch 
thick,  or  covering  to  that  depth  with  fine  white  sugar.  This  will  apply 
equally  as  well  to  jellies. 


Apple  Jam. — Peel,  core  and  cut  apples  in  thin  slices  and  put  in 
preserving  kettle  with  three-quarters  pound  white  sugar  to  every 
pound  fruit ; add  a few  cloves,  a small  piece  ginger  and  a thin  rind 
of  lemon  (tied  in  piece  of  muslin),  stir  with  a wooden  spoon  over 
quick  fire  half  an  hour,  when  it  will  be  ready  to  can  or  put  into 
glasses 

Apricot  Jam. — Pare  as  thinly  as  possible  (by  immersion  is 
best)  and  halve  three  pounds  sound,  ripe  apricots,  and  take  out 
stones  ; place  in  deep  dish,  and  strew  over  half  their  weight  of  finel}^ 
sifted  sugar ; let  stand  overnight.  Then  put  them  with  syrup  that 


432 


JAMS  AND  JELLIES. 


will  have  oozed  from  them  in  preserving-kettle,  add  a few  kernels 
blanched  and  sliced,  and  boil  very  gently  half  an  hour,  stirring  con- 
stantly. Put  into  glasses  or  cans  and  cover  closely.  Or  the  fruit 
may  be  simply  stewed  tender,  and  passed  through  a colander,  add- 
ing sugar, pint  for  pint;  boil  until  clear,  and  put  up  as  above. 

Blachherry  Jam. — Measure  or  weigh  and  put  fresh  ripe  berries 
into  preserving-kettle,  crush  to  a pulp  with  potato  masher,  and  boil 
fifteen  or  twenty  minutes,  or  until  about  half  the  juice  has  boiled 
aAvay,  skimming  often ; add  three-fourths  pound  sugar  to  each  pound 
fruit  and  finish  as  directed.  Currant  and  all  Berry  Jams  made 
same  way. 

Carrot  Jam. — Select  young  carrots,  wash  and  scrape  clean,  cut 
in  round  pieces,  put  over  fire  with  water  to  cover  and  simmer  until 
perfectly  soft;  then  press  through  puree  seive,  weigh,  and  for  every 
pound  allow  pound  sugar,  grated  rind  of  a lemon,  strained  juice  of 
two,  and  six  chopped  bitter  almonds ; put  pulp  over  the  fire  with 
sugar  and  boil  five  minutes,  then  add  other  ingredients  and  as  soon 
as  these  are  well  mixed  put  up  in  self-sealing  cans.  This  is  an  imi- 
tation of  Apricot  Preserves,  for  which  it  is  a very  good  substitute, 
but  must  be  put  up  in  thoroughly  tight  cans,  according  to  directions 
for  Canning  Fruits,  or  it  will  not  keep. 

Cherry  Jam. — Stem  and  wash  cherries  and  boil  till  soft  in  very 
little  water ; put  through  colander  to  remove  stones,  then  return  to 
fire,  sweeten  to  taste,  boil  thick  as  other  jams  and  put  up  same. 
To  make  a very  nice  jam,  take  six  pounds  cherries  weighed  before 
stoning,  stone  and  boil  in  their  juice  until  nearly  dry ; then  add  four 
pounds  sugar  and  pint  currant  juice  and  boil  all  together  until  it 
jellies,  which  will  be  in  from  twenty  minutes  to  half  an  hour ; skim 
jam  well,  keep  it  well  stirred,  and  a few  minutes  before  done,  crack 
some  of  the  stones  and  add  the  kernels  ; these  impart  a very  deli- 
cious flavor. 

Cihrrant  Jam. — Pick  from  stems  and  wash  thoroughly  with  the 
hands,  put  in  preserving-kettle  and  boil  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes, 
stirring  often,  and  skimming  off  all  scum ; then  add  sugar  in  pro- 
portions given  and  finish  and  put  up  as  directed  in  preface. 
The  addition  of  one  pound  raisins  to  each  gallon  currant  jam 
converts  this  into  very  fine  French  Jam. 

Damson  Jam. — Stone  the  damsons,  weigh,  and  to  every  pound 
allow  three-fourths  pound  sugar.  Put  fruit  and  sugar  over  the  fire, 
keep  stirring  gently  until  sugar  is  dissolved,  and  carefully  remove 
scum.  Boil  about  an  hour  from  the  time  it  commences  to  simmer 
all  over  alike  ; it  must  be  well  stirred  all  the  time,  or  it  will  be  liable 
to  burn  and  stick  to  the  pan.  When  the  jam  looks  firm,  and  the 
juice  appears  like  jelly,  it  is  done. 


JAMS  AND  JELLIES. 


433 


Gooseberry  Jam. — Stew  nice  ripe  berries  in  a little  water,  press 
through  a coarse  sieve,  return,  to  the  kettle  and  add  three-fourths 
pound  sugar  to  each  pound  pulped  gooseberry ; boil  three-quarters 
of  an  hour,  stirring  constantly;  pour  in  jars  or  bowls,  and  cover  as 
directed  in  preface.  Some  use  an  equal  weight  of  fruit  and  sugar. 
If  one  prefers  to  keep  the  berries  whole,  put  the  sugar  into  kettle 
and  add  water  enough  to  melt  it ; drop  the  fruit  into  the  hot  syrup 
and  cook  until  the  syrup  begins  to  thicken  around  the  berries.  Do 
not  stir  but  shake  the  kettle  gently  occasionally  to  keep  the  fruit 
from  burning,  and  cook  until  a little  jellies  when  cooled  in  a saucer. 
Put  up  as  previously  directed.  Blackberry  Jam\^  made  same  way. 
To  make  Gooseberry  Jam  loith  Currant  juice  select  the  rough  red 
gooseberries,  if  possible,  stem  and  weigh  them  and  allow  a half  pint 
currant  juice  and  five  pounds  sugar  to  six  pounds  fruit  j put  goose- 
berries and  currant  juice  over  the  fire  and  heat  until  fruit  begins  to 
break,  then  add  the  sugar  and  keep  simmering  until  the  mixture  be- 
comes firm  or  jellies.  Skim  carefully,  and  keep  stirring  that  it  ma}^ 
not  burn. 

Grape  Jam. — Stem  ripe  grapes  and  slip  off  skins  ; put  pulp  in 
kettle  with  cup  water  and  boil  until  seeds  separate ; strain,  allow 
one  pound  sugar  to  one  pint  pulp,  put  all  together  in  kettle  with 
half  the  skins,  boil  until  skins  are  tender,  strain  and  put  in  glasses. 
Or  simply  stew  the  grapes  in  a little  water,  and  press  through  a cob 
ander  or  coarse  sieve,  add  sugar  in  proportion  of  three-quarters 
pound  to  a pound  fruit,  and  finish  as  directed.  Plum  Jam  made 
same  way,  adding  a little  water  to  plums  to  assist  in  straining. 

Green-gage  Jam. — To  every  pound  fruit,  weighed  before  ston- 
ing, allow  three-fourths  pound  sugar.  Halve  the  green-gages,  take 
out  stones,  and  put  fruit  in  preserving  kettle ; bring  to  a boil,  then 
add  sugar,  and  keep  stirring  over  a gentle  fire  till  melted  ; remove 
scum  as  it  rises,  and  just  before  jam  is  done  add  half  the  blanched 
kernels  and  boil  rapidly  five  minutes. 

Peach  Jam. — Peel  the  peaches  thinly  with  a silver  knife,  or  if 
not  too  ripe  by  immersing  in  hot  water,  remove  stones  and  weigh, 
allowing  one-third  their  weight  of  sugar.  Put  in  preserving  kettle 
with  sugar  strewn  in,  set  over  fire,  bring  gradually  to  a boil  and  boil 
gently  and  steadily  two  hours,  skimming  as  often  as  scum  rises  and 
stirring  occasionally — constantly  toward  the  last  to  prevent  burning. 
Ver}^  ripe  peaches,  or  the  sound  portion  of  those  partly  decayed  may 
be  used  for  jam.  Some  prefer  rather  more  sugar,  and  stew  the 
peaches  until  soft,  then  put  them  through  a sieve  or  colander  before 
adding  sugar. 

Pie-plant  Jam. — Cut  in  pieces  about  one  inch  in  length ; to 
pound  pie-plant,  add  a pound  sugar  : cut  it  up  in  the  afternoon  be- 
fore it  is  to  be  cooked;  scatter  the  sugar  over  it  and  let  stand 
28 


434 


JAMS  AND  JELLIES. 


overnight ; in  the  morning  drain  off  the  syrup  and  boil  till  it  thick- 
ens ; then  add  the  pie-plant  and  boil  fifteen  minutes,  or  till  it  is  done. 
Or  to  every  pound  pie-plant  allow  a pound  sugar  and  rind  and  juice 
of  half  a lemon ; wipe  pie-plant  dry,  cut  in  small  pieces  and  put 
over  fire  with  the  sugar ; mince  the  lemon  peel  very  fine  ; add  it  and 
the  juice  to  the  other  ingredients  and  keep  well  stirred;  if  very 
young,  boil  one  hour,  if  old  two  hours.  It  will  keep  good  for  years. 
Omit  the  lemon  and  it  is  called  Pie-plant  Butter.  For  Pie-plant 
and  Orange  Jam.,  peel  six  oranges  ; remove  as  much  white  pith  as 
possible,  divide  them,  and  take  out  seeds  ; slice  the  pulp  in  preserving 
kettle,  add  rind  of  half  the  oranges  cut  into  thin  strips,  and  the  loaf 
sugar,  which  should  be  broken  small.  Peel  one  quart  pie-plant,  cut 
in  thin  pieces,  add  to  the  oranges,  and  stir  all  together  over  gentle 
fire  until  jam  is  done.  Remove  all  scum  as  it  rises,  put  the  jam  into 
pots,  and,  when  cold,  cover.  Should  pie-plant  be  very  old,  stew  it 
alone  for  quarter  of  an  hour  before  other  ingredients  are  added. 

Pine-apple  Jam. — To  one  pound  grated  pine-apple  add  three- 
fourths  pound  sugar  and  boil  ten  minutes. 

Plum  Jam. — Weigh,  then  halve  and  stone  the  plums,  spread  on 
large  dishes,  sprinkle  sugar  over  in  the  proportion  of  three-fourths 
pound  to  pound  fruit,  and  let  stand  one  day.  Then  simmer  gently 
half  an  hour  and  boil  rapidly  fifteen  minutes.  Remove  scum  as  fast 
as  it  raises  and  stir  constantly.  May  be  flavored  nicely  by  cracking 
a few  stones  and  adding  kernels  just  before  jam  is  done.  The  sweet 
varieties  of  plums  do  not  require  so  much  sugar. 

Quince  Jam. — Boil  fruit  in  as  little  water  as  possible  until  soft 
enough  to  break  easily ; pour  off  all  water  and  rub  with  spoon  until 
entirely  smooth.  To  each  pound  quince  add  ten  ounces  brown 
sugar,  and  boil  twenty  minutes,  stirring  often.  A more  elaborate 
recipe  requires  seven  pounds  quinces,  two  of  sour  oranges  and  nine 
of  sugar  ; cut  quinces  into  dice  and  boil  with  them  in  one  quart  water, 
one-third  or  less  of  the  orange  rind ; when  quinces  are  tender  add 
oranges  and  sugar  and  boil  fifteen  minutes.  If  sour  oranges  cannot 
he  obtained  use  lemons.  If  quinces  are  not  acid  use  less  sugar. 
Very  excellent. 

Raspberry  Jam. — Use  small  or  crushed  berries,  carefully  re- 
jecting all  decayed  ones;  prepare  as  directed,  and  allow  two- 
thirds  their  weight  in  sugar  ; crush  the  berries  in  preserving  kettle 
with  potato-masher  or  wooden  spoon,  and  beat  well  and  boil  fifteen 
or  twenty  minutes,  add  sugar  and  finish  as  in  general  directions. 
Or  add  currants  in  proportion  of  one-third  currants  to  two-thirds 
raspberries ; or  use  only  the  juice  of  currants,  half  pint  to  each  quart 
mashed  raspberries,  and  as  a substitute  two  or  three  tablespoons 
currant  jelly  may  be  well  beaten,  thinned  with  a little  water  and 
added  as  the  juice.  Another  method  of  making  is  to  crush  the  ber- 
ries and  sugar  together,  and  let  stand  two  or  three  hours  before  cook- 


JAMS  AND  JELLIES. 


435 


ing,  then  proceed  as  above.  Make  Strawherry  Jam  same  way,  al- 
lowing sugar  in  proportion  of  three-fourths  the  weight  of  the  fruit. 


Fruit  Jellies. 


Vegetable  jelly  is  a distinct  principle  existing  in  fruits,  which 
possesses  the  property  of  gelantinizing  when'boiled  and  cooled,  and 
is  a principle  entirely  different  from  the  gelatine  of  animal  bodies, 
although  the  name  of  jelly,  common  to  both,  sometimes  leads  to  an 
erroneous  idea  on  the  subject.  When  made  of  gelatine,  jellies  have 
no  nutrition,  and  are  simply  used  to  carry  a palatable  flavor,  but  the 
fruit  jellies  are  wholesome  as  well  as  palatable.  Always  make  in  a 
porcelain  or  granite  iron- ware  kettle.  Never  use  tin  utensils  either 
in  preparing  the  juice  or  making  the  jelly.  Use  the  best  refined  or 
granulated  sugar,  and  do  not  have  the  fruit,  especially  currants  and 
grapes,  overripe.  To  make  clear,  handsome  jelly  the  fruit  must  be 
quite  fresh  and  all  blemishes  removed.  Currants  and  berries  must 
be  made  up  as  soon  as  picked,  and  should  never  be  gathered  imme- 
diately after  a rain,  as  they  are  greatly  impoverished  by  the  moisture 
absorbed.  Never  on  any  account  let  them  stand  overnight.  Nearly 
all  fruit  jellies  may  be  made  in  same  way,  whether  currant,  plum, 
crab-apple,  gooseberry,  quince,  apple,  peach  or  grape,  using  less  su- 
gar for  the  sweeter  fruits.  The  first  five  fruits  mentioned  jelly  very 
easily  and  quickly,  and  the  others  will  give  no  trouble  if  directions 
are  faithfully  followed.  Cherries  will  not  jelly  alone,  and  must  be 
mixed  with  one-fourth  their  quantity  of  currants,  or  gelatine  may  be 

used  with  them,  an  ounce  to  a quartof 
juice.  All  fruit  forms  into  jelly  more  readi- 
ly if  not  quite  ripe.  Have  the  flannels  and 
cloths  used  for  straining  perfectly  clean 
and  white,  and  the  strainer  stand 
illustrated  will  be*  found  a great  conven- 
ience. The  cut  explains  itself,  and  the 
stand  can  be  made  by  any  one  at  all  fa- 
miliar with  the  use  of  tools. 

To  extract  the  juice,  place  fruit  in 
kettle  with  just  enough  water  to  keep 
from  burning,  or  bruise  with  potato  masher  until  enough 
juice  starts  for  the  same  purpose,  stir  often,  and  let  remain 


Strainer  Stand. 


436 


FRUIT  JELLIES. 


over  fire  until  thoroughly  scalded ; or  a better  but  rather  slow- 
er method  is  to  place  it  in  a stone  jar  set  in  kettle  of  tepid 
water,  boil  until  fruit  is  well  softened,  stirring  frequently,  and 
then  strain  a small  quantity  at  a time  through  a strong  coarse  flan- 
nel, crash  or  cotton  bag,  wrung  out  of  hot  water,  after  which  let  it 
drain,  and  squeeze  it  with  the  hands  as  it  cools,  emptying  the  bag 
and  rinsing  it  off  each  time  it  is  used.  A three-cornered  bag  is  best 
and  there  is  not  so  much  need  of  pressing  a bag  of  this  shape,  the 
weight  of  the  fruit  in  the  large  part  causing  the  juice  to  flow  freely 
at  the  point.  Press  occasional!}^  at  the  top  and  sides  if  necessary, 
but  the  jelly  will  be  clearer  if  the  juice  is  allowed  to  drain  through 
without  squeezing.  The  small  salt  bags  do  nicely  for  straining  a 
small  quantity  and  can  be  kept  for  this  purpose.  If  jelly  is  wanted 
very  nice,  strain  the  juice  again  tlirough  a clean  cloth,  then  return  it 
to  the  clean  preserving  kettle.  The  larger  fruits,  such  as  apples  and 
quinces,  should  be  cut  in  pieces,  cores  removed  if  at  all  defective, 
water  added  to  just  cover  them,  boiled  gently  until  tender,  turned 
into  bag  and  placed  to  drain  for  three  or  four  hours,  or  overnight. 
Make  not  over  two  or  three  pints  of  jelly  at  a time  as  larger  quanti- 
ties require  longer  boiling.  As  a general  rule  allow  equal  measures 
juice  and  sugar.  Some  boil  juice  rapidly  ten  minutes  from  the  first 
moment  of  boiling,  skim,  add  sugar,  and  boil  ten  minutes  longer; 
but  a better  way,  which  insures  a clearer  jelly,  is  to  spread  the  sugar 
in  a large  dripping-pan,  set  in  oven  and  stir  often  to  prevent  burn- 
ing ; boil  the  juice  twenty  minutes,  skimming  carefully,  add  hot 
sugar,  let  boil  five  minutes  and  pour  into  the  prepared  jelly-glasses 
immediately,  as  a thin  skin  forms  over  the  surface  when  jelly  cools, 
which  should  not  be  broken  as  it  keeps  out  the  air,  and  if  formed 
upon  the  top  of  glasses  of  jelly  acts  as  a preservative.  Do  not  put 
on  paper  dipped  in  alcohol  or  brandy  till  jelly  is  cold,  as  the  skin 
might  thus  be  broken.  This  applies  to  jams  when  put  up  in  glasses 
or  stone  jars.  It  is  always  best  to  test  jelly  before  pouring  into 
glasses,  as  some  fruit  juices  require  longer  boiling  than  others  to  re- 
duce to  jelly.  The  simplest  test  is  to  take  a few  drops  on  a spoon 
and  by  holding  it  in  a cool  place  and  turning  from  side  to  side  one 
can  easily  tell  when  it  jellies,  as  it  will  jelly  on  the  spoon  and  not  run  ; 
or  drop  a little  in  a glass  of  very  cold  water,  and  if  it  immediately 
falls  to  the  bottom  it  is  done ; or  if  when  dropped  in  a saucer  and 
set  on  ice  or  in  a cool  place  it  does  not  spread,  but  remains  rounded,  it 


FRUIT  JELLIES. 


437 


is  finished.  Be  careful  not  to  have  so  hot  a fire  when  boiling  as  to 
scorch  and  so  ruin  the  jelly,  and  too  long  cooking  after  the  sugar  is 
added  will  make  it  dark  and  strong.  Some  strain  through  the  bag 
into  glasses,  but  this  involves  waste,  and  if  skimming  is  carefully 
done  is  not  necessary.  A little  butter  or  lard,  rubbed  with  a cloth 
on  outside  of  glasses  or  cans,  will  enable  one  to  pour  in  the  boiling 
fruit  or  liquid,  the  first  spoon  or  two  slowly,  without  breaking  the 
glass.  If  jelly  is  not  very  firm,  let  it  stand  in  the  sun  covered  with  bits 
of  window  glass  or  pieces  of  mosquito  netting,  for  a few  days.  Never 
attempt  to  make  jelly  in  damp  or  cloudy  weather  if  firmness  and 
clearness  are  desired.  When  ready  to  put  away,  cover  as  directed  for 
jams. 

If  pulp  is  wanted  for  jam  do  not  squeeze  the  fruit  too  hard,  and 
it  can  be  made  up  very  nicely.  The  jelly  should  be  placed  in  a dry, 
dark,  cool  place  and  examined  toward  the  end  of  summer,  when  if 
there  are  any  signs  of  fermentation,  reboil.  Jelly  needs  more  at- 
tention in  damp  rainy  seasons  than  in  others. 

When  jelly  is  wanted  in  its  greatest  perfection  do  not  squeeze 
through  strainer  at  first,  simply  use  what  will  drain  through  of  itself. 
This  will  make  a beautifully  clear  jelly.  The  remainder  of  the  juice 
may  be  squeezed  through  and  jelly  made  of  it  as  usual,  but  it  will 
not  be  so  nice  as  that  made  from  the  first  drippings. 

Jelly  designed  for  frequent  use,  as  for  making  jelly  cake,  sand- 
wiches, serving  with  meats,  etc.,  maybe  put  up  in  stone  jars,for  which 
the  half  gallon  is  a nice  size,  but  must  be  carefully  covered  again 
each  time  after  opening.  Writing  paper  cut  to  fit  the  tops  and  dip- 
ped in  alcohol  or  brandy  is  best  for  the  first  covering  for  jars  as 
well  as  glasses,  then  cover  as  directed  in  jams. 


Apple  Jelly. — Quarter  and  core  but  do  not  pare  nice  tart  red- 
cheeked apples,  and  boil  until  soft;  then  strain  with  very  little 
pressing  and- after  boiling  up  and  skimming  thoroughly  add  three- 
fourths  the  quantity  of  sugar  and  boil  until  it  jellies  nicely.  It  will 
be  delicious  and  of  a beautiful  pink  color.  Too  ripe  apples  will  make 
it  dark.  Some  do  not  add  sugar  until  about  five  minutes  before  jelly 
is  done,  and  if  apples  are  perfectly  sound  many  cook  the  cores. 
Green  apples  are  often  used  for  jelly,  and  a very  good  article  maybe 
made  by  boiling  the  parings  of  apples  with  the  sound  cores  in  as 
little  water  as  possible  until  soft,  and  finish  as  above.  Three-quarters 
ot  a pint  sugar  to  a pint  juice  is  the  rule  of  some  housekeepers,  who 


438 


FRUIT  JELLIES. 


also  clear  the  jelly  with  whites  of  eggs.  But  if  juice  is  properly 
strained  and  skimmed  this  should  not  be  necessary.  A German 
method  of  making  is  to  let  the  apples  boil  untouched  until  they 
break,  then  set  away  in  the  kettle,  if  it  can  be  spared,  otherwise  in 
an  earthen  bowl,  for  three  days ; then  drain  without  pressing,  add  a 
pound  sugar  to  every  pint  juice,  and  boil  three-quarters  of  an  hour. 
Fill  glasses,  and  cover.  Some  economical  housekeepers  pare  and 
core  the  apples  and  do  not  strain  so  closely  but  that  they  may  be 
used  for  sauce  or  pies.  If  the  flavor  of  lemon  is  liked  boil  half  the 
peel  of  one  with  every  two  dozen  apples,  but  lemon  juice  is  thought 
by  some  to  render  the  jelly  muddy  and  thick ; when  used  strain  it  in 
just  before  jelly  is  done.  If  the  jelly  is  wanted  light  colored  peel 
the  apples.  Apple  jelly,  ornamented  when  put  into  the  molds  with 
preserved  greengages  or  otlier  preserved  fruit,  turns  out  very  prettilv 
for  dessert.  Apple  jelly  is  also  made  very  delicious  by  the  addition 
of  orange  and  lemon  iuice,  equal  parts  of  both,  in  any  proportion 
liked,  half  and  half,  or  one-fourth  orange  and  lemon  to  three-fourths 
apple  juice. 

Crab- Apple  Jelly. — Wash  and  quarter  large  Siberian  crabs,  but 
do  not  core,  cover  to  depth  of  an  inch  or  two  with  cold  water,  and 
cook  to  a mush ; pour  into  coarse  cotton  bag  or  strainer,  and  when 
cool  enough,  press  or  squeeze  hard,  to  extract  all  juice.  Wring  a 
piece  of  fine  Swiss  muslin  or  crinoline  out  of  water,  spread  over  col- 
ander placed  over  a crock,  and  with  a cup  dip  juice  slowly  in,  al- 
lowing plenty  of  time  to  run  through ; repeat  this  process  twice, 
rinsing  out  the  muslin  frequently.  Allow  the  strained  juice  of  four 
lemons  to  a peck  of  apples,  and  three-quarters  of  a pound  sugar  to 
each  pint  juice,  though  some  use  a pound  sugar  to  pint  juice.  Boil 
the  juice  from  ten  to  twenty  minutes  ; v/hile  boiling  sift  in  the  sugar 
slowly,  stirring  constanthq  and  boil  five  minutes  longer.  This  is 
generally  sufficient,  but  it  is  always  safer  to  try  it,  and  ascertain 
whether  it  will  jelly.  This  makes  a very  clear,  sparkling  jelly.  The 
pulp  may  be  made  into  jam  or  marmalade.  For  Transcendent 
Crab-  Apyle  Jelly ^ prepare  the  transcendent  or  any  variety  of  crab- 
apples  as  Cultivated  Wild  Plums,  adding  flavoring  of  almond,  lemon, 
peach,  pine-apple  or  vanilla  to  the  jelly  in  the  proportion  of  one 
teaspoon  to  two  pints,  or  more  if  wished  stronger,  just  before  it  is 
done.  Or  make  without  flavoring. 

Dried  Ayple  Jelly. — Wash  carefully  two  quarts  dried  apples 
and  let  soak  in  soft  water  to  cover  for  half  an  hour ; put  on  to  cook 
in  same  water,  adding  if  needed  moie  to  cover,  and  cook  two  or  three 
hours  ; strain  the  juice’,  and  to  every  pint  add  three-quarters  pound 
sugar  and  juice  of  two  lemons  ; boil  till  when  tested  it  will  jelly,  then 
finish  as  directed.  Some  add  a few  raisins  to  apples  when  cooking. 

Apricot  Jelly. — Take  out  stones  from  two  quarts  apricots,  cut 
in  small  pieces,  and  lay  them  in  preserving-kettle  with  a clove,  well 


FRUIT  JELLIES. 


439 


pounded,  and  juice  of  half  lemon  ; cover  with  water,  set  on  moderate 
fire,  and  boil  slowly  till  well  cooked.  Strain,  and  when  juice  is  all 
squeezed  out,  put  it  in  kettle  with  three-quarters  pint  sugar  to  every 
pint  juice ; boil  till  it  jellies. 

Blackherry  Jelly. — Select  nice,  not  over-ripe  berries,  and  pre 
pare  as  directed  for  all  jellies  in  preface,  allowing  three-fourths  as 
much  sugar  as  juice,  though  some  use  pint  for  pint.  Others  prefer 
to  use  the  berries  while  still  red,  but  the  jelly  from  fruit  in  so  green 
a state  will  wholly  lack  the  delicious  flavor  of  that  made  from  the 
ripe  berries. 

Cherry  Jelly. — Stone  and  stem  a quantity  of  best  cherries,  and 
•to  every  four  pounds  add  one  pound  red  currants  ; put  into  preserv" 
ing-kettle,  place  over  the  fire  and  reduce  all  to  a mash,  stirring  all 
the  while  with  the  wooden  spatula.  Strain  by  pressing  through  a 
hair  sieve,  and  filtering  through  a jelly  bag.  To  each  pint  fruit  add 
three-quarters  pint  or  a pint  sugar  as  liked.  Place  again  on  fire  and 
boil  to  a jelly,  removing  the  scum,  and  fill  glasses  or  jars.  A very 
nice  jelly,  and  excellent  for  flavoring  summer  drinks. 

Cranberry  Jelly. — Prepare  juice  as  in  general  directions,  add 
one  pound  sugar  to  every  pint,  ooil  and  skim,  and  test  by  dropping 
a little  into  cold  water.  When  it  does  not  mingle  with  the  water  it 
is  done.  The  pulp  may  be  sweetened  and  used  for  sauce.  Instead 
of  squeezing  to  obtain  juice  some  prefer  to  let  the  cooked  fruit  hang 
in  the  jelly  bag  to  drip  overnight.  Then  proceed  as  directed  for  ail 
jellies. 

Currant  Jelly. — Do  not  pick  from  stem,  but  carefully  remove 
all  leaves  and  imperfect  fruit,  place  in  a stone  jar  and  follow  general 
directions,  allowing  for  each  pint  juice  a pint  sugar.  Some  use  a 
pound  sugar  to  pint  juice.  Or  weigh  the  fruit  and  to  each  pound 
allow  half  the  weight  of  granulated  or  pure  loaf  sugar.  Put  a few 
currants  in  porcelain-lined  kettle,  and  press  with  potato-masher,  or 
anything  convenient,  in  order  to  secure  sufficient  liquid  to  prevent 
burning ; then  add  the  remainder  of  fruit,  and  boil  freely  twenty 
minutes,  stirring  occasionally,  to  prevent  burning.  Take  out  and 
strain  carefully  through  the  three-cornered  strainer  above  mentioned, 
putting  the  liquid  into  either  earthen  or  wooden  vessels.  When 
strained  return  liquid  to  kettle,  without’  trouble  of  measuring,  and 
let  it  boil  thoroughly  for  a moment  or  so,  skim  well  and  add  the 
sugar,  which  has  been  heated  as  directed  in  preface.  The  moment 
the  sugar  is  entirely  dissolved,  the  jelly  should  be  done,  and  must 
be  immediately  dished,  or  placed  in  glasses.  It  will  jelly  upon  the 
side  of  the  cup  as  it  is  taken  up,  leaving  no  doubt  as  to  the  result. 
Blackberry  and  Strawberry  Jelly  are  made  by  either  of  above  meth- 
ods, and  a very  finely  flavored  jelly  is  obtained  by  mixing  red  rasp- 
berry and  currant  juice,  two  parts  former  to  one  of  latter.  Make 


440 


FRUIT  JELLIES. 


Black  Currant  Jelly  as  above,  using  only  half  pound  sugar  to  pint 
juice.  Or  if  the  currants  are  wished  for  jam  or  to  dry  take  pint  cur- 
rants, picked  off  stem,  pint  sugar,  place  in  kettle  on  stove,  scald  well, 
skim  out  currants,  strain  juice  and  cook  until  it  jellies.  Dry  cur- 
rants on  plates,  or  make  into  jam,  adding  half  pint  sugar  with  one- 
third  currants  and  two-thirds  raspberries.  When  currants  are 
dried  put  in  stone  jars  and  cover  closely. 

To  extract  currant  juice  without  boiling  fruit,  crush  the  fruit 
with  the  hands  in  large  earthen  bowl,  about  a quart  at  once.  Pour 
the  currants  into  the  strainer,  and  when  all  crushed  and  draining, 
stir  them  about  with  the  hand  and  squeeze  the  thin  juice  from  them  ; 
then  take  about  a pint  and  a half  of  the  crushed  fruit  at  a time  in  a 
strong  towel  and  squeeze ; the  thick  juice  that  comes  at  the  very  last 
it  is  well  to  put  aside  for  currant  shrub  ; the  first  can  be  used  with 
that  already  strained  for  the  jelly.  A jelly  of  a prettier  color  is  ob- 
tained by  mixing  the  white  and  red  currants,  half  and  halt.  Some 
take  the  trouble  to  make  jelly  from  the  white  and  red  currants  sep- 
arately, then  harden  it  in  successive  layers  in  glasses.  For  the  pro- 
cess see  directions  given  for  making  Ribbon  Jelly.  Another 
pretty  arrangement  is  to  melt  jelly  before  serving,  add  little  dissolved 
gelatine,  put  in  mold  and  set  in  ice-box  or  cool  place  to  harden.  Some 
housekeepers  report  excellent  success  in  making  Uncooked  Currant 
Jelly:  To  one  pint  currant  juice  from  raw  fruit,  add  a pint  granu- 
lated sugar;  stir  the  juice  very  slowly  into  the  sugar  until  sugar  is 
dissolved,  then  let  stand  twenty-four  hours  and  it  will  be  stiff  jelly. 
Turn  into  glasses,  cover  with  a thin  covering  and  set  in  the  sun  two 
or  three  days,  then  cover  as  directed  and  put  away.  Half  a bushel 
of  currants  makes  twenty -two  and  one-half  pint  glasses  of  jelly. 

Elderberry  Jelly. — One  quart  elderberries,  one  pint  watei  : boil 
together  a few  minutes,  then  press  through  a towel  till  all  juice  is 
extracted ; one  quart  crab-apples  and  one  pint  water  boiled  to- 
gether, and  juice  extracted  in  same  way  ; the  apples  should  be  cut 
once  or  twice  through  before  boiling ; mix  juice  of  both  together,  and 
for  every  pint  juice  take  one  pound  white  sugar  and  boil  about  ten 
or  fifteen  minutes,  till  it  will  jelly  nicely;  elderberry  juice  will  not 
jelly  when  taken  alone,  but  by  adding  the  juice  of  apples  a beautiful 
jelly  is  made. 

Four-Fruit  Jelly. — Take  equal  quantities  ripe  strawberries, 
raspberries,  currants,  and  red  cherries  ; all  should  be  fully  ripe,  and 
the  cherries  must  be  stoned,  taking  care  to  preserve  the  juice  that 
escapes  in  stoning,  and  add  it  to  the  rest ; mix  the  fruit  together, 
put  into  a linen  bag,  and  squeeze  thoroughly ; when  it  has  ceased  to 
drip,  measure  the  juice,  and  to  every  pint  allow  a pound  and  two 
ounces  best  loaf  sugar,  in  large  lumps.  Mix  juice  and  sugar  together ; 
put  them  in  a porcelain-lined  preserving  kettle,  and  boil  for  half  an 
hour,  skimming  frequently.  Try  the  jelly  by  dipping  out  a spoon- 


FRUIT  JELLIES. 


441 


fill,  and  holding  it  in  the  open  air ; if  it  hardens  readily  it  is  suffi- 
ciently done. 

Gooseberry  Jelly. — To  every  quart  green  gooseberries  add  a 
pint  water  and  boil  until  bursting  and  almost  a jam.  Then  strain 
and  proceed  as  in  general  directions,  adding  a pound  sugar  to  each 
pint  juice.  Requires  longer  boiling  than  most  jellies.  Juice  may 
be  obtained  without  boiling  the  fruit  as  in  Currant  Jelly,  if  preferred, 
and  some  let  them  stand  twenty-four  hours  after  cooking  before 
straining,  or  hang  in  jelly  bag  all  night. 

Grape  Jelly. — Prepare  fruit  and  rub  through  a sieve ; to  every 
pound  pulp  add  a pound  sugar,  stir  well  together,  boil  slowly  twenty 
minutes,  then  follow  general  directions ; or  prepare  the  juice,  boil 
twenty  minutes,  and  add  one  pound  sugar  to  one  pound  juice  after 
it  is  reduced  by  boiling ; then  boil  ten  or  fifteen  minutes.  Or  crush 
the  grapes  over  the  fire  and  do  not  strain  until  thoroughl_y  heated 
through.  Or  put  on  grapes  just  beginning  to  turn,  boil  until  broken, 
place  in  jelly-bag,  let  drain  without  pressing  and  finish  as  in  general 
directions.  Just  before  jelly  is  done  some  add  a teaspoon  dissolved 
gum-arabic,  or  a little  gelatine,  but  if  fruit  is  not  too  ripe  and  the 
directions  heretofore  given  have  been  carefully  followed  this  will 
not  be  necessary.  Some  use  pound  sugar  to  each  pint  juice,  meas- 
tired  just  after  straining.  Green  grapes,  about  half  ripened,  are  best 
for  jelly.  Wild  Grape  Jelly  is  made  same  way.  Some  cook  the 
grapes  whole,  but  if  first  pulped  through  a sieve,  the  pulp  may  be 
used  for  jam,  marmalade,  or  be  eaten  while  fresh  for  sauce  at  tea. 

Muscadine  Jelly . — Squeeze  skins  from  muscadines,  saving  all 
the  pulp  and  juice,  and  add  to  each  quart  a dozen  or  twenty  of  the 
ekins,  or  enough  to  give  a rich  crimson  color ; too  many  will  make 
the  jelly  dark,  and  if  none  are  used  it  will  have  a muddy  color.  If 
there  is  not  sufficient  juice  to  prevent  scorching  add  a little  water, 
set  on  brisk  fire  and  cook  twenty  to  thirty  minutes ; take  off  and 
strain  through  flannel  jelly-bag,  once  only ; add  pint  sugar  to  each 
quart  juice,  return  to  fire  and  boil  hard  twenty  minutes  without 
stirring.  Test,  boiling  until  it  will  jelly,  and  put  away  in  glasses. 

Peach  Jelly. — Crack  one-third  of  the  kernels  and  put  them  in 
the  jar  with  the  peaches,  which  have  been  pared,  stoned  and  sliced, 
though  some  jirefer  not  to  pare,  and  simply  rub  off  the  down.  Heat 
in  a kettle  of  boiling  water,  stirring  occasionally  until  the  fruit  is 
well  broken.  Strain,  and  to  every  pint  juice  add  the  juice  of  a lemon. 
Measure  again,  and  to  every  pint  juice  add  a pound  sugar.  Heat 
sugar  very  hot,  and  add  when  the  juice  has  boiled  twenty  minutes, 
and  been  well  skimmed.  Let  it  come  to  a boil  and  take  instantly 
from  the  fire.  Very  nice  for  jelly  cake. 

Pie-plant  Jelly. — Wash  the  stalks  well  but  do  not  peel,  cut  in- 
to pieces  an  inch  long,  put  them  into  a preserving-kettle  with  enough 


442 


FRUIT  JELLIES. 


water  to  cover,  and  boil  to  a soft  pulp;  strain  through  a jelly-bag. 
To  each  pint  juice  add  pound  sugar ; boil  again,  skimming  often, 
and  when  it  jellies  on  the  skimmer  remove  from  the  fire  and  put  in- 
to jars.  Or  after  cut  in  pieces  put  in  crock  with  a very  little  sugar 
and  a few  spoonfuls  water ; place  in  oven,  cover  and  cook  slowly  till 
soft,  strain  and  to  each  pint  juice  take  pint  sugar  and  finish  as  in 
general  directions.  Some  flavor  with  extract  of  lemon  just  before  it 
is  done. 

Pine-apple  Jelly. — ^Pare  and  grate  fruit  and  to  each  pound  fruit 
take  pound  sugar,  stir  till  sugar  is  dissolved  and  cook  and  test  as 
above.  Strain  into  glasses  and  cover  as  directed.  This  is  delicious 
molded  and  served  as  a Dessert  Jelly,  surrounded  with  sweetened 
whipped  cream  if  liked. 

Plum  Jelly. — If  plums  are  wild  (nof  cultivated)  put  in  pan  and 
sprinkle  with  soda  and  pour  hot  water  over  them,  let  stand  a few 
moments,  then  stir  once  or  twice ; take  out  and  put  on  with  water  just 
to  cover,  or  less  if  plums  are  very  juicy ; boil  till  soft,  dip  out  juice 
with  a china  cup ; then  strain  the  rest  without  squeezing.  Take 
pint  for  pint  juice  and  sugar,  and  boil,  test  and  finish  as  directed  in 
preface.  For  Cultivated  Wild  Plum  Jelly  make  as  above  without 
using  soda.  Take  plums  that  are  left  after  straining  and  press 
through  a sieve  and  take  pint  for  pint  of  sugar  and  pulp,  boiling 
the  latter  half  an  hour,  and  then  adding  sugar,  boiling  ten  or  fifteen 
minutes  more.  Half  a pint  sugar  to  a pint  pulp  makes  a good  Plum 
Marmalade.,  and  one-third  pint  to  pint,  boiling  it  longer,  is  nice 
canned  and  used  for  pies,  adding  milk,  eggs  and  sugar  as  for  squash 
pies.  Plum- Apple  Jelly  may  be  made  by  preparing  the  juice  of 
crab-apples  and  plums  as  above,  mixing  the  juice  in  any  proportion 
wished,  half  and  half,  or  less  of  either  fruit,  and  finish  as  in  general 
directions.  The  marmalade  is  ma.de  in  the  same  way  as  above. 
Some  add  a little  ginger  root.  A bushel  apples  and  peck  of  plums 
make  forty  pints  jelly,  part  crab-apples  and  part  mixed,  and  sixteen 
quart  glass  cans  of  mixed  marmalade.  In  making  either  kind  of 
jelly  the  fruit  may  be  squeezed  and  juice  strained  twice  through 
swfiss  or  crinoline  and  made  into  jelly.  The  pulp  can  not  then  be 
used  for  marmalade.  For  a Rich  Alarmalade  take  the  crab-apple 
and  plum  pulp  without  first  straining  for  jelly  and  make  as  in  Plum 
Marmalade. 

Quince  Jelly. —WCio  the  quinces  with  a cloth  until  perfectly 
smooth,  cut  in  small  pieces,  pack  tight  in  a kettle,  pour  on  cold 
water  until  level  with  the  fruit,  boil  until  very  soft  but  not  red ; pour  in 
three-cornered  strainer  and  hang  up  to  drain,  occasionally  pressing 
to  make  the  juice  run  more  freely,  taking  care  not  to  press  hard 
enough  to  expel  the  pulp  ; some  let  it  hang  overnight.  To  a pint 
juice  allow  pint  sugar,  and  boil  fifteen  minutes,  or  until  it  will  jelly  : 
pour  into  tumblers,  or  bowls,  and  finish  according  to  general  direc- 


FRUIT  JELLIES. 


443 


tions.  If  the  quinces  are  pared  and  cored  before  cooking,  the  pulp 
can  be  made  into  marmalade  by  adding  three-fourths  pound  sugar, 
and  a fourth  pound  juicy  apples  to  each  pound  quinces,  if 
quinces  are  scarce,  the  parings  and  cores  of  quinces  with  good  tan 
apples,  boiled  and  strained  as  above,  make  excellent  jelly,  and  the 
quinces  may  be  used  for  preserves. 

Uaspherry  Jelly. — Cook  red  raspberries  until  the  juice  separ- 
ates, then  strain  and  proceed  as  directed  in  preface,  adding  three- 
fourths  as  much  sugar  as  juice.  Or  the  juice  may  be  obtained  by 
mashing  and  straining,  without  cooking.  Care  must  be  exercised 
in  selecting  the  berries,  as  if  at  all  over-ripe  the  juice  may  not  jelly 
readily.  Success  is  sure,  however,  if  one  part  currant  juice  is  added 
to  two  parts  raspberry,  and  some  use  half  and  half. 

tStrawberry  Jelly. — Mash  the  berries  and  strain  through  jelly- 
bag  without  squeezing.  Put  juice  on  stove  and  follow  general  di- 
rections, adding  sugar  pint  for  pint.  The  berries  must  be  firm  and 
■freshly  gathered,  as  the  slightest  tendency  to  fermentation  will  pre- 
rent  the  juice  becoming  jelly. 

Tomato  Jelly. — Cut  a peck  yellow  tomatoes  in  pieces,  boil  until 
soft,  and  strain ; put  the  jitice  on,  after  measuring,  with  a sliced  lemon 
added  and  boil  half  an  hour;  add  sugar  pint  for  pint,  let  dissolve 
wnd  come  to  boiling  point,  v/hen  it  should  be  jelly.  Test  until  prop- 
erly done,  then  strain  into  glasses. 

Fruit  Flavors. — These  are  very  easily  prepared,  and  very  con- 
venient for  flavoring  and  coloring  ices  and  ice-creams,  dessert  jel- 
lies, sherbets,  drinks  for  the  sick,  creams,  pudding  sauces,  etc.,  when 
fruit  is  out  of  season.  Directions  for  preparing  the  juices  or  pulps 
of  the  different  fruits  have  already  been  given  in  Ices  and  Ice-creams, 
and  the  process  of  making  is  the  same  for  all : Mix  the  given  quan- 
tities prepared  fruit  juice  or  pulp  and  sugar  together,  stirring  until 
sugar  is  dissolved  and  a clear  syrup  results ; then  pour  into  glass 
fruit  jars  of  pint  or  quart  size,  same  as  used  for  canning,  cover  closely 
with  their  lids,  stand  in  wash-boiler  and  finish  as  directed  in  third 
recipe  for  Canned  Peaches,  on  page  153,  boiling  half  an  hour  after 
boiling  point  is  reached.  Put  cans  away  as  directed  in  Canning 
Fruit.  If  properly  prepared  these  flavors  will  keep  two  or  three 
years  and  when  used  will  have  all  the  flavor  of  the  fresh  fruit  juices. 
For  Orange  Flavor  to  each  pint  prepared  orange  juice  add  juice  of 
one  lemon  and  three  cups  granulated  sugar.  Make  Strawberry 
Flavor  same  way  using  prepared  strawberry  juice  and  juice  of  only 
half  a lemon.  For  Raspberry  Flavor  take  a pint  prepared  rasp- 
berry juice,  juice  of  half  a lemon,  or  half  gill  currant  juice,  three  and  a 
half  cups  sugar.  For  Cherry.,  Currant^  Grape.,  Plum  Apple 
Flavors  use  a pint  prepared  juice  and  three  cups  sugar.  For  Reach, 
Apricot,  and  Nectarine  Flavors  allow  three  cups  sugar  to  each  pint 
prepared  pulp. 


444 


DESSERT  JELLIES. 


Dessert  Jellies. 


Very  handsome  jellies  for  dessert  are  made  with  gelatine  formed 
in  fancy  molds,  and  when  fruit  is  added  exceedingly  elegant  and  or- 
namental dishes  result.  But  there  are  a few  points  connected  with 
the  use  of  gelatine  for  culinary  purposes  which  cannot  he  too  strongly 
impressed  upon  housekeepers  and  cooks  . It  should  always  be  soaked 
in  cold  water  till  thoroughly  saturated  or  so  soft  that  it  will  tear 
wuth  the  fingers.  In  some  cases  it  should  be  soaked  for  not  less 
than  five  or  six  hours.  The  liquid  containing  gelatine  should  never 
be  boiled,  except  in  cases  when  it  cannot  be  avoided,  such  as  in 
clearing  a jelly  with  white  of  egg,  when  it  is  necessary  to  raise  the 
temperature  to  boiling  point  to  coagulate  tlie  albumen ; but  two 
minutes’  boiling  is  quite  sufficient  for  that  purpose.  Use  as  little 
gelatine  as  possible  ; that  is,  never  use  more  than  will  suffice  to  make 
a jelly  strong  enough  to  retain  its  form  when  turned  out  of  the  mold. 
The  prejudice  common  against  gelatine  which  existed  in  former 
years  was  doubtless  caused  by  persons  unacquainted  with  its  qual- 
ities using  too  large  a quantity,  and  producing  a jelly,  hard,  tough, 
and  unpalatable,  which  compared  very  unfavorably  with  the  deli- 
cate jellies  made  from  calves’  feet,  the  delicacy  of  which 
arose  from  the  simple  fact  that  the  gelatine  derived  from 
calves’  feet  is  so  weak  that  it  is  almost  impossible  to  make  the  jel- 
lies too  strong.  Persons  accustomed  to  use  gelatine  will  know  that 
its  “setting”  power  is  very  much  affected  by.  the  temperature.  In 
hot  weather  a little  more  gelatine  than  ordinary  should  be  added.  If 
jelly  is  not  perfectly  clear  after  straining,  beat  up  whites  of  eggs  and 
add,  bring  to  aboil  and  skim,  then  strain  again.  Do  not  use  lemon 
extract  for  flavoring  jellies  made  with  gelatine,  as  it  imparts  a milky 
appearance,  and  as  in  making  these  jellies  ornament  is  the  chief  aim, 
it  is  desirable  to  have  them  as  clear  and  transparent  as  possible.  To 
mold,  rinse  the  mold  in  cold  water,  and  then  fill.  Jelly  is  some- 
times formed  in  a mold  with  . a cylindrical  tube  in  the  center,  and 
Avhen  turned  out  the  space  in  center  is  filled  with  whipped  cream.  If 
wanted  still  more  ornamental  dot  the  whipped  cream  with  straw- 
berries, or  any  kind  of  preserved  fruits,  such  as  cherries,  grapes,  slices 
of  peaches,  etc.  Any  jelly  left  over,  whether  fruit  or  gelatine,  may 
be  reheated  in  a custard  kettle  and  molded  again.  If  of  two  colors, 
mold  as  directed  for  Ribbon  Jelly,  or  in  any  way  fancied.  Blanc- 


DESSERT  JELLIES. 


445 


manges  may  also  be  remolded  in  same  way,  and  by  placing  with  the 
jelly  in  mold,  half  and  half,  makes  a pretty  dish.  To  serve  any  des- 
sert jelly  wrap  a cloth  wrung  out  of  water  around  the  mold  and  turn 
out. 


Apple  Jelly. — Core  and  cut  two  dozen  apples  into  quarters  , 
boil  with  rind  of  a lemon  until  tender;  drain  off 
juice,  strain  it  through  jelly-bag,  and  to  each  pint  add  a 
^ lialf  pint  sugar  and  a half  ounce  gelatine,  previously 
fl ll ^ soaked  and  simmered  gently  in  half  pint  water ; boil  all 
t(![J|)l|][Mr  together  slowly  fifteen  minutes  and  strain  into  molds. 

Turn  out,  when  cold,  and  serve  surrounded  with  whipped 
cream  or  custard. 

Aspic  Jelly. — To  three  pints  clear  stock  (that  made  from 
knuckle  of  veal  is  good)  add  two  ounces  gelatine  that  has  been  soft- 
ened in  cold  water.  Beat  up  whites  and  shells  of  two  eggs  and  one 
yolk ; add  them  to  the  stock,  and  put  into  a saucepan,  with  a table- 
spoon catsup,  one  of  vinegar,  and  a teaspoon  each  savory,  thyme, 
marjoram  and  parsley,  and  a smaller  quantity  of  mace,  cloves,  all- 
spice, white  pepper  and  salt,  with  one  wineglass  wine.  Set  over  a 
slow  fire,  stirring  till  it  boils  ; then  cook  slowly  a fcAV  minutes,  giv- 
ing it  constant  attention ; set  aside  to  settle,  strain  through  a coarse 
cloth  or  a fine  sieve,  and  turn  into  mold  to  harden.  It  should  be 
perfectly  clear,  and  ma}^  be  cut  into  blocks  or  dice  for  garnish,  or 
cut  into  thin  slices  and  alternated  with  slices  of  ham  or  beef ; or  it 
may  be  melted  and  poured  upon  chopped  chicken  in  a mold.  There 
are  many  other  ways  in  which  it  may  be  useful  and  ornamental.  It 
is  very  nourishing,  and  generally  very  acceptable  to  sick  persons, 
especially  if  given  to  them  in  small  quantities  ice-cold.  Another 
Aspic  or  Savory  Jelly  is  prepared  from  four  pounds  knuckle  of 
veal,  one  beefs  foot,  three  or  four  slices  ham,  any  poultry  trimmings, 
two  carrots,  one  onion,  a bunch  of  savory  herbs,  glass  of  sherry,  three 
quarts  water,  seasoning  to  taste  of  salt  and  whole  white  pepper.  Put 
ham  in  bottom  of  stewpan  with  other  ingredients  on  top  and  sim- 
mer all  very  gently  four  hours.  Then  strain  and  cool,  turn  into  a 
clean  stewpan,  leaving  all  sediment  behind,  add  whites  of  three  eggs 
to  clarify,  boil  until  it  becomes  white,  stirring  constantly,  then 
strain  and  use  as  above. 

Calf’s- Foot  Jelly. — Boil  four  feet  cut  in  three  pieces  in  thre 
quarts  water  very  slowly,  until  reduced  to  one  quart ; strain  and  se 
away  until  cold ; then  take  off  fat,  and  put  the  clear  jelly  in  a stew 
pan,  add  a half  pound  powdered  sugar,  juice  of  two  lemons,  and 
chopped  peel  of  one  if  flavor  is  liked,  and  whites  of  two  eggs  ; boil 
ten  minutes,  strain  and  put  in  glasses  or  molds  to  harden.  A more 


446 


DESSERT  JELLIES 


elaborate  recipe  is  the  following : Cut  the  feet  across  the  first  joint, 
and  through  the  hoof,  place  in  a large  sauce-pan,  cover  with  cold 
water,  and  bring  quiclily  to  the  boiling  point ; when  water  boils,  re- 
move them,  and  wash  thoroughly  in  cold  water.  When  perfectly 
clean  put  into  a porcelain-lined  or  granite  iron-ware  saucepan,  add 
cold  water  in  the  proportion  of  three  pints  to  two  calf’s  feet,  put 
sauce-pan  over  fire,  and  when  water  boils,  set  aside  to  a cooler  place, 
where  it  will  simmer  very  slowly  five  hours ; strain  through  a fine 
sieve,  or  a coarse  towel,  let  stand  overnight  to  set,  remove  the  fat 
that  has  risen  to  the  top,  and  to  make  quite  clean  dip  a towel  in 
boiling  water  and  wash  the  surface,  which  will  be  quite  firm.  Now 
place  in  saucepan,  and  melt,  add  juice  two  lemons,  rinds  of  three 
cut  into  strips,  one-fourth  pound  cut  loaf-sugar,  ten  cloves,  and  one 
inch  cinnamon  stick.  Put  -whites  of  three  eggs,  together 
with  the  shells  (which  must  first  be  blanched  in  boiling 
water),  into  a bowl,  beat  slightly,  and  pour  into  sauce- 
pan, continuing  to  use  the  egg-beater  until  the  whole 
boils,  when  the  pan  should  be  drawn  aside  where  it  wall  simmer 
gently  for  ten  minutes,  skimming  off  all  scum  as  it  rises.  While 
simmering,  prepare  a piece  of  flannel  by  pouring  through  it  a little 
warm  water ; and  when  the  jelly  has  simmered  ten  minutes,  pour  it 
through  this  bag  into  a bowl,  and  repeat  the  process  of  straining  un- 
til it  is  perfectly  clear,  when  add  a half  gill  of  sherry  ( or  brandy,  or 
brandy  and  sherry  mixed  in  equal  proportions),  stir  well,  pour  into 
molds,  and  place  upon  ice  or  in  a cool  place  until  jelly  sets  and  be- 
comes firm  enough  to  turn  out  and  serve. 

Chocolate  Jelly. — Two  pints  cream,  three  ounces  sugar,  four 
ounces  chocolate,  grated ; boil  all  together,  stirring  well  until  fine 
and  frothy,  add  three-fourths  ounce  gelatine,  stir  until  thoroughly 
dissolved,  turn  into  mold  and  let  cool  on  ice. 

Cider  Jelly. — One  package  of  gelatine,  grated  rind  of  one  lemon 
and  juice  of  three ; add  one  pint  cold  water,  and  let  stand  one  hour ; 
then  add  two  and  one-half  pounds  loaf  sugar,  three  pints  boiling 
water,  and  one  pint  cider,  put  into  molds  and  set  in  a cool  place. 


Coifee  Jelly. — Half  box  Cox’s  gelatine  soaked  half  an  hour  in 
half  cup  cold  water  (as  little  as  possi- 
ble), one  quart  strong  cof- 
fee, made  as  if  for  table 
and  sweetened  to  taste ; 
add  dissolved  gelatine  to 
the  hot  coffee,  stir  well, 
strain  into  a mold  rinsed 

just  before  using  with  cold  water;  set  Jelly  witt  AYhipped  Cream, 

on  ice  or  in  a very  cool  place,  and  serve  with  whipped  cream.  This  jel- 
ly is  very  pretty  formed  in  a crown  mold.  When  turned  out  fill 


DESSERT  JELLIES. 


447 


the  space  in  center  with  whipped  cream.  Orange  Jelly  is  delicious 
served  in  same  way. 

Corn- star  oh  Jelly. — Wet  five  tablespoons  corn-starch,  one  cup 
sugar,  and  pinch  of  salt  with  cold  water,  and  add  one  teaspoon  lemon 
or  vanilla  extract  for  flavoring ; stir  the  mixture  into  one  quart  boil- 
ing water  and  boil  five  minutes,  stirring  all  the  while  ; pour  into  cups 
previously  dipped  in  cold  water.  This  quantity  will  fill  six  or  seven 
cups.  If  wished  richer,  milk  may  be  used  instead  of  water.  Good 
for  invalids. 


Easter  Jelly. — Color  calf  s-foot  jelly  a bright  3"ellow  by  steep- 
ing a small  quantity  of  American  saffron  in  the  water.  Pare  lemons 
in  long  strips  about  the  width  of  a straw,  boil  in  water  until  tender, 
throw  them  into  a rich  syrup,  and  boil  until  clear.  Make  a blanc- 
mange of  cream,  color  one-third  pink  with  poke-berry  syrup,  one- 
third  green  with  spinach,  and  leave  the  other  white.  Pour  out  eggs 
from  a hole  a half  inch  in  diameter  in  the  large  end.  Wash  and 
drain  the  shells  carefully,  set  them  in  a basin  of  salt  to  fill,  pour 
in  the  blanc-mange  slowly  through  a funnel,  and 
place  the  dish  in  a refrigerator  for  several  hours, 

When  ready  to  serve,  select  a round,  shallow  dish 
about  as  large  as  a hen’s  nest,  form  jelly  in  it  as  a Easter  jeiiy. 
lining,  remove  the  egg-shells  carefully  from  the  blanc-mange  and 
fill  the  nest  with  them ; scatter  the  strips  of  lemon  peel  around  it 
like  straws,  and  around  the  edges  place  pieces  cf  the  green  blanc- 
mange cut  out  from  a small  sheet  of  it,  cooled  in  a dish  as  in  Italian 
Jelly. 

Fruit  Jelly. — Soak  a box  of  gelatine  one  hour  in  pint  cold  water ; 
when  well  soaked  pour  on  a pint  boiling  Avater ; then  put  in  a quart 
of  any  kind  of  fruit,  strawberries,  raspberries  or  cherries  are  nice  ; 
add  half  cup  sugar  and  one  spoonful  lemon  juice ; pour  into  a mold, 
and  when  cold  eat  with  cream  and  sugar  or  Avhipped  cream.  It  is 
delicious. 


Lemon  Jelly. — Three  good-sized  lemons,  sliced,  half  a pound 
white  sugar,  two  ounces  isinglass  or  gelatine,  dissolved  in  two  quarts 
cold  Avater,  a stick  of  cinnamon,  and  a little  grated  nutmeg.  Beat 
Avhites  of  three  or  four  eggs,  and  when  the  gelatine  is  dissolved  stir 
them  Avell  Avith  the  other  ingredients ; boil  five  minutes,  strain 
through  a flannel  jelly-bag  into  molds  and  set  on  ice ; or  the  eggs, 
cinnamon  and  nutmeg  may  be  omitted.  Or  soak  half  a box  gela- 
tine one  hour  in  cold  Avater ; add  nearly  a 
pint  boiling  Avater,  one  and  a half  cups  su- 
gar, a little  salt,  and  the  grated  rind  and 
juice  of  three  lemons  ; set  on  the  stove  till 
Jelly  in  Glasses.  it  boils,  then  Strain  it  into  glasses,  and 

when  cold  serve  with  Avhipped  cream  heaped  on  top.  For  Lemon 


448 


DESSERT  JELLIES. 


Snow  Jelly  dissolve  a box  gelatine  in  nearly  a quart  boiling  water, 
add  the  juice  of  five  lemons  and  enough  sugar  to  sweeten  to  taste  ; 
strain  and  set  aside  until  nearly  cool.  Beat  whites  of  five  eggs  and 
whip  into  the  jelly  ; turn  into  a mold  and  let  stand  until  cool.  After 
it  becomes  solid,  turn  out  and  decorate  with  pieces  of  red  jelly. 


Orange  Jelly. — Two  quarts  water,  four  ounces  gelatine,  nine 
oranges  and  three  lemons,  a pound  sugar,  whites  of  three  eggs  ; soak 
gelatine  in  pint  of  water,  boil  the  three  pints  water  and  sugar  to- 
gether, skim  well,  add  dissolved  gelatine,  orange  and  lemon  juice, 
and  beaten  whites ; let  come  to  a boil,  skim  carefully,  boil  until  it 
jellies,  and  pour  into  mold.  The  eggs  may  be  omitted,  when  the 
jelly  must  be  strained.  The  grated  rind  of  one  orange  put  in  with 
the  juice  gives  a fine  flavor,  or  some  of  the  sugar  may  be  rubbed  on 
the  rinds.  A very  attractive  way  of  serving  is  to  keep  the  orange 
l inds  whole  by  removing  juice  and  pulp  with  the  handle  of  a tea- 
spoon from  a small  opening  in  one  end,  drain 
and  wipe  them  dry.  Use  the  juice  for  the 
jelly,  made  as  above  without  the  eggs,  and 
carefully  strained ; then  color  one-half  of  it 
pink  with  a few  drops  cochineal  coloring, 
let  stand  until  nearly  cold,  and  fill  the  rinds 
with  alternate  stripes  of  the  pink  and 
white  jellies.  When  perfectly  cold  cut  in- 
to quarters  and  pile  tastefull}^  on  a dish 
Oranges  Pilled  with  Jelly.  with  tufts  of  green  leaves  interspersed.  Calf’s 
Foot,  or  any  variety  of  jelly,  or  difierent  blanc-manges,  may  be  used 
at  choice  to  fill  the  rinds ; the  colors,  however,  should  contrast  as 
much  as  possible..  For  Mock  Oranges.,  prepare  as  above  (without 
eggs)  but  do  not  color  the  jelly  with  which  they  are  to  be  filled,  and 
when  cold  carefully  cut  in  halves.  Should  be  prepared  the  day  be- 
fore wanted.  Serve  as  real  fruit  piled  in  glass  dish  with  green  leaves 
around.  Another  elegant  dish  is  made  by  preserving  the  sections 
of  two  oranges  whole,  taking  care  not  to  break  the  thin  inner  skin 
surrounding  them.  Pour  half  the  jelly  in  mold  and  let  harden  on 
ice,  keeping  remainder  hot  by  standing  in  hot  water.  Then  arrange 
the, prepared  sections  of  orange  in  a circle  on  jelly  in  mold,  around  the 
edge,  then  add  just  enough  jelly  to  cover  the  orange  sections,  let  it 
harden,  put  in  remainder  and  set  away  to  cool.  If  all  of  last  half 
of  jelly  is  poured  over  the  sections  they  will  rise  to  the  top.  When 
making  in  a hurry,  instead  of  molding  sections  in  jelly  keep  to  gar- 
nish the  dish. 


Peach  Jelly. — Add  to  the  juice  from  a can  of  peaches  a cup 
granulated  sugar  and  boil  until  clear,  skimming  carefully ; when  no 
more  scum  rises,  put  in  the  peaches  and  let  boil  up  once ; then  care- 
fully take  them  out  without  breaking,  and  pour  the  hot  syrup  over 
a box  gelatine  that  has  soaked  an  hour  in  a cup  cold  water ; add 


DESSERT  JELLIES. 


449 


juice  of  a lemon,  cup  each  granulated  sugar  and  boiling  water  and  put 
all  over  the  fire,  stirring  constantly  until  the  gelatine  is  entirely  dis- 
solved; strain  while  hot;  put  the  peaches  in  a mold,  pour  the  jelly 
over,  and  set  in  a cold  place  for  several  hours  before  wanted. 

Pie-plant  Jelly. — Peel  enough  pie-plant  to  fill  a quart  mold,  cut 
in  half-inch  lengths,  and  stew  gently  to  a pulp  with  an  equal  weight 
of  sugar  ; dissolve  half  an  ounce  gelatine  in  a gill  of  water  over  the 
fire ; add  it  to  the  pie-plant  when  tender,  and  let  it  boil  up  ; then 
pour  in  a mold  wet  with  cold  water,  and  let  cool.  Serve  with  whipped 
cream  or  powdered  sugar. 

Pig's  Foot  Jelly. — Take  the  liquor  in  which  fresh  pig’s  feet 
have  been  boiled,  strain  through  a flannel  bag  and  set  away  to  cool 
until  next  day ; then  remove  all  grease  from  the  top,  return  to  the 
fire  and  add  to  each  quart  of  jelly  one-half  pound  white  sugar,  juice 
of  two  lemons  or  two  dessertspoons  lemon  extract,  a little  cinna- 
mon bark  and  the  whites  of  two  eggs  (the  latter  to  clarify  it)  ; boil 
all  together  ten  or  fifteen  minutes  and  strain  again  into  glasses,  bowls, 
cups  or  molds  of  any  shape.  Let  cool,  after  which  cover  closely  and 
set  in  a cool  place ; it  will  keep  a long  time,  is  delicious  eaten  with 
cake,  either  with  or  without  cream,  according  to  taste,  and  is  very 
.strengthening  and  refreshing  for  invalids. 

Pine-apple  Jelly. — Take  a small  can  pine-apple,  a cup  and  a 
half  sugar,  package  of  gelatine,  one  lemon,  white  of  an  egg,  and  a 
quart  water.  Soak  the  gelatine  in  half  a pint  cold  water  for  two 
hours  and  a half.  Cut  pine-apple  into  small  pieces  and  put  it  with 
juice  and  remainder  of  water  into  a saucepan  to  simmer  for  ten 
minutes  ; beat  white  of  egg  well,  and  put  it  into  a stewpan  with  the 
soaked  gelatine,  the  sugar,  and  juice  of  lemon.  At  the  end  of  ten 
minutes  strain  the  pine-apple  mixture  into  the  stewpan.  Heat  slowly 
to  boiling  point,  then  set  back  where  it  vfill  keep  hot  for  twenty 
minutes  without  boiling.  Strain  and  put  away  in  molds  to  harden. 
It  will  take  five  or  six  hours  for  the  liquid  to  become  perfectly  set. 

Ribbon  Jelly. — Color  half  the  desired  quantity  of  lemon  or  any 
light  jelly  with  a few  drops  of  cochineal  coloring ; pour  in  wet  mold 
a little  of  the  light  jelly,  and  when  set  a layer  of  equal  thickness  of 
the  red,  and  so  alternate  until  mold  is  full,  waiting  until  each  lay(ir 
has  hardened  before  adding  another,  and  keeping  the  jelly  warm  in 
hot  water  until  all  is  used. 

Tapioca  Jelly, — One  cup  tapioca,  three  cups  cold  water,  juice 
of  one  lemon  and  a pinch  of  the  grated  peel ; sweeten  to  taste ; soak 
the  tapioca  in  water  four  hours ; set  in  a saucepan  boil- 
ing water ; pour  more  lukewarm  water  over  the  tapioca, 
if  it  has  absorbed  too  much  of  the  liquid,  and  heat,  stir- 
ring frequently.  If  too  thick  after  it  begins  to  clear, 
put  in  very  little  boiling  water.  When  quite  clear,  put  in  the  sugar 


450 


DESSERT  JELLIES. 


and  lemon.  Pour  into  molds.  Eat  cold  with  sweetened  cream 
flavored  to  taste.  For  a nice  jelly  with  fruit  juice  put  a quarter  of  a 
pound  tapioca  over  a gentle  fire  in  sufficient  water  to  reach  two  inches 
above  it ; use  custard  kettle  in  order  that  it  may  cook  very  slowly 
without  danger  of  burning ; it  must  be  stirred  thoroughly  about  every 
five  minutes  if  an  ordinary  saucepan  is  used ; if  the  water  cooks 
away  add  half  a cup  cold  water  at  a time,  using  only  sufficient  to  keep 
tapioca  moist  enough  to  prevent  burning ; when  only  very  small 
white  particles  are  visible  in  the  center  of  the  grains  of  tapioca,  in- 
stead of  adding  more  water  stir  in  a pint  of  any  fruit  juice,  or  the 
syrup  from  canned  or  preserved  fruit,  and  let  it  be  slowly  absorbed 
b}^  the  tapioca.  Unless  the  fruit  juice  is  quite  sweet  enough,  sugar 
may  be  added,  to  make  the  tapioca  palatable  ; when  it  has  absorbed 
the  fruit,  turn  it  out  into  a plain  mold  or  bowl,  and  let  stand  until 
perfectly  cold  before  using.  Milk  and  powdered  sugar  may  be  served 
with  it ; or  it  may  be  iced  and  ^erved  alone. 

Whipped  Jelly. — This  is  a very  pretty  dessert  dish  and  easih 
prepared.  When  any  gelatine  jelly  is  set  a little,  put  in  bowl  and 
whip  with  egg-whisk  until  full  of  air-bubbles.  Fill  the  mold,  and  put 
on  ice.  The  light  frothy  appearance  is  very  pleasing,  and  the  ad- 
dition of  preserved  fruits,  well  stirred  in,  about  two  cups  to  a quar’^ 
jelly,  forms  a handsome  dish. 

Jelly  with  Fruit — Fresh  ‘fruits  arc  often  molded  With  gelatine 
jellies  for  dessert  and  present  a very  handsome  appearance,  the 
fruit  being  arranged  around  sides  of  mold,  or  placed  in  center,  or  in 
any  manner  fancied.  The  cut  given  shows 
jelly  molded  with  cherries.  Have  ready 
a pint  and  half  jelly  which  must  be  very 
clear  and  very  sweet,  the  raw  fruit  requir- 
ing additional  sugar.  Select  nice,  per- 
fect fruit  and  pick  off  sttilks.  Begin  by  putting  a little  jelly  at  bot- 
tom of  mold,  placed  in  pan  of  ice  in  lumps ; let  stand  until  hard 
before  putting  in  fruit,  keeping  remainder  of  jelly  hot  by  placing  in 
kettle  of  hot  water.  When  the  jelly  is  hard  arrange  the  fruit  around 
sides  of  mold,  bearing  in  mind  that  it  will  be  reversed  when  turned 
out.  Then  add  a little  more  jelly  to  make  the  fruit  adhere,  and 
when  that  has  hardened  add  another  row  of  fruit  and  jelly  in  same 
way,  and  so  on  until  mold  is  full.  Strawberries,  raspberries,  grapes, 
cherries  and  currants  are  put  in  raw,  but  peaches,  apricots,  plums, 
apples,  etc.,  are  better  for  being  first  boiled  in  a little  clear  syrup. 
In  winter,  when  fresh  fruits  are  not  obtainable,  a very  pretty  jelly 
may  be  made  with  preserved  fruits.  When 
served  garnish  with  the  same  fruit  as  laid 
in  the  jelly , for  instance  an  open  jelly  with 
Open  Mold.  sUawberries  may  have  a little  of  the  same  Strawberries, 
fruit  filled  in  the  center  as  illustrated.  This  is  also  a delicious  way 


Jelly  Molded  with  Cherries. 


DESSERT  JELLIES. 


451 


of  serving  ice-cream,  as  the  open  mold  can  be  filled  with  Straw- 
berry  Ice-cream,  or  any  ice-cream,  placed  in  the  cave  and  then 
quickly  turned  out  and  the  center  filled  with  the  berries. 

A stem  of  fresh  grapes  apparently  suspended  in  a deep  mold  of 
transparent  jelly  is  also  a beautiful  ornament  for  the  table.  To 
secure  this  effect,  place  the  grapes  stem, downward  in  mold,  and  to 
keep  in  position  while  pouring  in  jelly  attach  two  threads  as  near 
top  of  stem  as  possible,  bring  around  the  mold  and  tie,  having 
bunch  exactly  in  center.  Have  jelly  quite  cold  but  not  hardened, 
pour  it  in  around  grapes,  filling  up  to  top  of  mold  and  set  away  to 
cool.  Before  turning  out  of  mold,  clip  the  threads  as  closely  as 
possible,  and  by  using  a sharp-pointed  pair  of  scissors  they  may  l)e 
clipped  quite  closo  to  the  stem.  Or  if  jelly  is  cold  enough  the  threads 
may  be  carefully  removed  when  they  are  reached  in  pouring  in,  then 
fill  to  top.  ItaMan  Jelly  is  also  very  ornamentaL  and  is  made  by 
half  filling  a mold  with  jelly  and  when  hard  arranging  round  sides 
of  mold  a circle  of  little  cakes  of  blanc-mange,  which  must  have 
been  cooled  in  a sheet  of  the  desired  thickness  and  cut  out  for  this 
purpose.  Finish  as  directed  above. 

Jelly  SandicicJies. — These  are  very  nice  for  children’s  parties,  and 
are  an  attractive  addition  to  any  table.  The  Accommodating  Cake 
recipe,  in  which  neither  butter  nor  milk  is  used,  is  excellent  for 
sandwiches : Beat  six  eggs  very  light,  add  a cup  and  a half  sugar 
and  beat  again ; then  lightly  stir  in  a cup  and  a half  sifted  flour.  A 
teaspoon  baking  powder  in  the  flour,  and  a tablespoon  vinegar  may 
be  used,  but  neither  are  essential.  Bake  in  deep ‘round  cans  (the 
ordinary  baking  powder  cans  are  a nice  size  for  this  purpose),  well 
buttered,  filling  only  a little  more  than  half  full  to  allow  for  rising. 
When  done  and  cold  turn  out  and  cut  in  slices  as  thick  as  liked, 
spread  with  jelly,  place  two  together, and  neat  little  round  sandwiches 
are  made.  The  cake  is  also  excellent  baked  in  a loaf,  and  any  loaf 
cake  may  be  baked  in  the  cans,  the  round  slices  being  a novelty  on 
any  table.  Chocolate  Cake  baked  as  above  and  made  into  sand- 
wiches is  a favorite  with  the  little  folks.  The  following  is  one  of  the 
best  recipes  : Put  a half  cup  sweet  milk,  yolk  of  one  egg  and  two 
and  a half  tablespoons  grated  chocolate  over  the  fire  until  it  comes 
to  boiling  point,  then  take  off,  let  cool,  sweeten  to  taste  and  beat  it 
into  the  following  cake  mixture : One  cup  granulated  sugar,  half 
cup  butter,  two  eggs,  teaspoon  baking  powder,  half  cup  sweet  milk, 
two  cups  flour.  This  may  also  be  baked  in  a loaf  or  makes  a very 
elegant  layer  cake  spread  with  white  icing  flavored  with  vanilla.  Or 
make  after  this  recipe  : One  cup  each  cream  and  sugar,  two  eggs,  two 
teaspoons  baking  powder  and  flour  to  make  good  cake  batter.  Bake 
in  the  cans,  slice  and  spread  with  jelly  ; or,  if  variety  is  wanted,  bake 
in  gem  or  patty  pans  and  ice  with  the  Chocolate  Caramel  Icinq 
given  in  Icing. 


452 


DESSERT  JELLIES. 


French  Sandwiches  are  also  favorites  with  children.  Make  bat- 
ter after  any  sponge  cake  or  other  recipe  preferred  and  bake  in  small 
round  cans,  so  that  the  slices  will  be  about  the  size  of  silver  half 
dollars.  Or  drop  on  buttered  paper,  a teaspoon  at  a time,  stirring 
a little  stiff  for  this,  and  when  baked  trim  off  edges  to  size  desired  as 
above  with  tin  cutter  or  any  small  round  tin  box  lid  Spread  with 
jelly,  put  together  and  ice  the  tops.  For  a nice  variety  use  different 
jellies  and  icings  ; ice  those  spread  with  red  currant  jelly  with  choc- 
olate icing,  those  with  peach  jelly  with  any  white  icing  flavored  with 
almond,  and  the  icing  for  the  raspberry  sandwiches  should  be  cob 
ored  pink  with  a few  drops  cochineal  coloring  or  cranberry  juice, 
and  may  also  be  flavored  with  almond.  The  easiest  way  to  ice  these 
sandwiches  is  to  take  each  half  on  a skewer  or  fork  and  dip  it  in  the 
icing,  of  which  there  must  be  quite  a quantity  so  as  to  give  the  right 
depth  ; stand  the  other  end  of  skewer  in  a box  of  sand,  salt  or  su- 
gar until  icing  is  dry ; then  put  together  with  the  jelly  as  above.  For 
Cream  Sandwiches  cream  a pound  each  butter  and  sugar ; froth 
whites  of  twelve  eggs,  stir  in  the  yolks  and  beat  all  smoothly  to- 
gether. Mix  three-fourths  pound  corn-starch  with  fourth  pound 
flour,  sift  twice  and  add  to  above  with  teaspoon  vanilla ; beat  till 
light  and  fine,  bake  in  can  as  above,  slice  and  put  together  with 
whipped  cream.  Boiled  Icing  or  French  Icing.  Or  bake  in  patty 
pans  and  ice  tops.  Nice  with  ice-cream. 

Victoria  Sandwiches  are  also  nice  : Take  four  eggs,  and  half 
pound  each  sugar,  butter  and  flour  with  a quarter  saltspoon  salt ; 
beat  the  butter  to  a cream,  dredge  in  flour  and  sugar,  stir  well  to- 
gether, and  add  the  eggs,  well  beaten.  Beat  all  together  about  ten 
minutes,  butter  a long  shallow  tin,  pour  in  batter,  and  bake  in  mod- 
erate oven  twenty  minutes.  Let  cool,  spread  one  half  cake  with  a 
layer  of  any  nice  jelly  or  jam,  place  over  it  the  other  half,  press  the 
pieces  slightly  together,  and  then  cut  in  long  finger-pieces  and  pile 
in  cross  bars  on  a glass  dish. 


MEATS. 


453 


MEATS 


Every  practical  housekeeper  should  spare  no  pains  to  perfect 
herself  in  this,  one  of  the  most  important  (by  many  considered  the 
most  important,)  departments  of  cooking.  Complete  directions  for 
buying  and  curing  meats  will  he  found  under  the  heads  of  Market- 
ing and  Curing  Meats,  so  that  here  only  instructions  for  cooking  are 
given.  If  cooked  when  first  killed,  meat  will  be  found  tender ; if 
kept  a little  time  the  muscles  stiffen  and  it  will  be  tough,  but  if  left 
a longer  time  the  muscles  relax  and  the  meat  becomes  more  tender 
than  at  first.  Young  meat  of  all  kinds  should  be  cooked  very 
thorough!}^  to  be  wholesome.  Beef  is  always  ^^hung,”  as  it  is  termed, 
at  least  a week  in  all  first-class  markets  before  cut  up,  in  the  re- 
frigerator in  summer,  and  is  kept  sometimes  two  weeks  in  cold 
winter  weather.  The  leg  and  haunch  of  mutton  is  also  preferred 
by  man}^  after  it  has  been  hung  three  days  or  longer,  but  all  other 
meats,  save  game,  should  be  cooked  as  soon  after  being  killed  as 
possible.  If  necessary  to  keep  meat  several  days  in  summer,  wash 
over  with  vinegar,  cover  lightly  with  bran  and  hang  in  a high  room 
or  passage  where  there  is  a constant  current  of  air.  AVhile  hanging, 
change  the  position  of  the  meat  occasionally  to  distribute  the  juices 
evenly.  Should  there  be  any  signs  of  a change  before  it  is  possible 
t.)  use  it,  rubbing  the  meat  over  lightly  with  salt  will  preserve  it  a 
day.  or  two  longer.  Meat  is  more  likely  to  spoil  in  rainy 
weather  than  dry  and  should  be  cared  for  accordingly.  Beef  suet 
may  be  kept  a long  time  in  a cool  place  without  freezing,  or  by 
burying  it  deep  in  the  flour  barrel  so  as  to  entirely  exclude  the  air. 
To  restore  tainted  meat,  wash  in  water  in  which  a little  borax  has 
been  dissolved,  cutting  away  all  discolored  portions. 


454 


MEATS. 


The  best  manner  of  cooking  tough  meat  is  to  boil  it  very  slowly 
until  tender,  letting  the  water  all  boil  away,  then  brown  in  kettle  or 
oven.  Tough  steaks,  etc.,  are  improved  by  laying  two  hours  on  a 
dish  containing  three  or  four  tablespoons  each  vinegar  and  salad- 
oil,  or  butter,  a little  pepper,  but  no  salt ; turn  every  twenty  minutes. 
The  action  of  the  oil  and  vinegar  softens  the  fibers  without  extract- 
ing their  juices.  Some  simply  soak  in  vinegar  and  water,  allowing 
three-fourths  pint  vinegar  to  three  quarts  water  for  a ten-pound 
piece,  and  let  lie  in  this  six  hours,  or  longer  if  a larger  piece.  To 
thaw  frozen  meat,  place  in  a warm  room  overnight,  or  lay  it  for  a 
few  hours  in  cold  water — the  latter  plan  being  best.  The  ice  w^hich 
forms  on  the  surface  as  it  thaws  is  easily  removed.  If  cooked  be- 
fore it  is  entirely  thawed,  it  will  be  tough.  Meat  once  frozen  should 
not  be  allowed  to  thaw  until  just  before  cooking. 

When  ordering  a rolled  roast  have  the  butcher  send  home  the 
bones  to  be  used  in  making  soup,  stock,  gravies,  etc.  Chop  or  break 
them  in  small  pieces  and  boil  with  onion,  celery,  turnip,  carrot  and 
parsley  or  any  one  or  two  of  these.  American  housekeepers  have 
3^et  much  to  learn  from  the  French  cook  who  throws  nothing  away. 
Instead  of  going  to  the  butcher  for  meat  out  of  which  to  make  stock 
he  utilizes  bones  as  above,  or  employs  the  trimmings  of  joints  for 
this  purpose,  and  converts  the  skimmings  from  the  soup  pot  or 
drippings  from  roast  or  boiled  meats  into  uses  for  which  butter  and 
lard  are  pressed  into  service  by  most  cooks.  For  directions  as  to 
the  care  and  preparation  of  drippings  etc.,  see  recipe  for  Clarified 
Drippings. 

Most  people  also  have  the  idea  that  a finely  flavored  dish  must 
cost  a great  deal ; this  is  a mistake,  for  if  one  has  untainted  meat, 
or  sound  vegetables,  or  even  Indian  meal,  to  begin  with,  it  can  be 
made  delicious  with  proper  seasoning.  One  reason  why  French 
cooking  is  much  nicer  than  any  other  is  that  it  is  seasoned  with  a 
great  variety  of  herbs  and  spices ; these  cost  very  little,  and  if  a few 
cents’  worth  were  bought  at  a time  one  would  soon  have  a good  as- 
sortment. The  mixed  spices  and  herbs,  now  to  be  had  in  all  large 
cities,  are  very  nice  for  seasoning  meats,  gravies,  etc.,  and  save  the 
trouble  of  preparing.  Recipes  for  their  preparation  are  given,  how- 
ever, for  those  who  prefer  to  mix  them  at  home.  If  all  the  season- 
ings— spices,  herbs,  etc., — mentioned  in  recipes  are  not  to  be  had, 
make  the  best  use  of  those  at  hand  by  combining  them  judiciously. 


MEATS. 


455 


But  no  matter  how  nicely  cooked  and  seasoned,  meat  is  often  utterly 
spoiled  in  serving.  It  should  always  be  neatly  dished  on  hot  plat- 
ter and  sent  to  table  with  very  hot  plates,  heated  in  warming  oven  or 
in  a pan  over  hot  water.  Especial  attention  to  this  point  is  neces- 
sary when  serving  mutton,  as  nothing  is  more  unpleasant  than  a 
shoAving  of  cold  mutton  fat  on  a still  colder  plate.  For  very  full 
directions  for  garnishing  meats  see  Garnishes,  though  suggestions 
will  be  found  with  nearly  eA^ery  recipe.  If  one  has  not  the  articles 
recommended,  others  may  he  substituted,  according  to  the  fancy  of 
the  cook'and  the  meat  may  of  course  be  served  without  any  garnish, 
yet  its  attractiveness  adds  much  to  the  enjoyment  of  any  dish. 

Glazing  adds  greatly  to  the  appearance  of  meat  and  full  direc-  ' 
tions  Avill  be  found  under  Glaze,  in  Gravies.  Braising  is  a favorite 
method  of  cooking  meats  in  France  and  Germany  and  several  rec- 
ipes are  given.  Complete  general  directions  for  the  more  common 
methods  employed  follow  under  appropriate  heads.  Y ery  complete 
instructions  for  Car\dng  Meats  will  also  be  found  under  that  head 
later  on,  a careful  study  of  Avhich,  Avith  the  many  illustrations  given, 
will  enable  anyone  to  become  an  accomplished  carver. 


Boiled  Meats. is  the  most  economical  way  of  cooking 
meats,when  properly  done, as  there  is  comparatively  little  waste  in  boil- 
ing from  the  fact  that  fat  melts  less  quickly  than  in  broiling  or  roast- 
ing, and  the  covering  of  the  pot  retards  evaporation,  while  the  water 
absorbed  by  the  meat  adds  to  its  bulk  to  a certain  extent  Avithout 
detracting  from  its  quality ; the  liquor  in  which  it  is  boiled,  or 
‘‘stock,’’  makes  excellent  soups  and  gravies  and  should  always  be 
put  by  for  this  purpose.  Every  economical  housekeeper  will  provide 
herself  with  a stock-pot,  which  should  be  kept  in  a cool  place  and 
all  remains  of  soups,  gravies,  etc.,  emptied  therein,  save  that  from 
mutton  or  fish,  which  must  be  kept  separate.  Inattention  to  the 
temperature  of  the  Avater  and  too  early  application  of  salt  causes  great 
waste  in  boiling  meats.  To  make  fresh  meat  rich  and  nutritious  it 
should  be  placed  in  a kettle  oi  boiling  (pure  soft  water  is  best), 
skimmed  Avell  as  soon  as  it  begins  to  boil  again,  and  placed  where 
it  will  boil  slovjly  but  constantly.  There  should  be  enough  water 
to  entirely  cover  the  meat  and  to  last  until  thoroughly  cooked.  The 
kettle  should  be  large  enough  so  that  the  meat  will  not  touch  the 
sides,  and  some  place  a plate  in  the  bottom  to  prevent  scorching. 
Care  must  be  taken  to  remoA^e  all  scum  at  the  first  boiling,  and  as 
fast  as  it  rises,  or  it  Avill  quickly  sink  and  spoil  the  appearance  of 
the  meat.  The  meat  should  be  occasionally  turned  and  kept  well 


456 


MEATS. 


under  the  water,  and  fresh  boiling  water  supplied  if  it  evaporates  too 
much  in  boiling,  Plunging  in  hot  water  hardens  the  fibrine  on  the 
outside,  encasing  and  retaining  the  rich  juices — and  the  whole  theory 
of  correct  cooking,  in  a nut-shell,  is  to  retain  as  much  as  possible  of 
the  nutriment  of  food.  No  salt  should  be  added  until  about  half  an 
hour  before  the  meat  is  done,  as  it  extracts  the  juices  of  the  meat  if 
added  too  soon ; do  not  fail  to  remove  the  scum  that  rises  after  salt* 
ing.  Boil  gently,  as  rapid  boiling  hardens  the  fibrine  and  renders 
the  meat  hard,  tasteless,  and  scarcely  more  nutritious  than  leather, 
without  really  hastening  the  process  of  cooking,  every  degree  of  heat 
beyond  the  boiling  point  being  worse  than  wasted.  There  is  a pithy 
saying : “ The  pot  should  only  smile,  not  laugh.”  The*  bubbles 

should  appear  in  one  part  of  the  surface  of  the  water  only,  not  all 
over  it.  This  differs  from  “simmering,”  as  in  the  latter  there  is 
merely  a sizzling  on  the  side  of  the  pan.  But  the  water  must  always 
be  kept  at  boiling  heat,  or  simmering,  else  it  will  soak  into  the  meat 
and  render  it  flat  and  insipid.  Salt  meat  should  pe  put  on  in  cold 
water  so  that  it  may  freshen  in  cooking.  Allow  twenty  minutes  to 
the  pound  for  fresh,  and  thirty-five  for  salt  meats,  the  time  to  be 
modified,  of  course,  by  the  quality  of  meat.  A pod  of  red  pepper  in 
the  water  will  prevent  the  unpleasant  odor  of  boiling  meat  from  fill- 
ing the  house.  Never  pierce  meat  with  a fork  when  taking  up  or 
turning,  as  this  allows  the  rich  juices  to  escape  ; tie  a stout  cord 
around  the  m*eat  when  put  into  kettle  with  which  to  lift  it  out.  If 
meat  seems  tough,  put  a tablespoon  or  two  of  vinegar  in  the  water 
before  putting  in  meat.  Dried  and  smoked  meats  should  be  soaked 
for  some  hours  before  putting  into  water.  White  meats,  like  mutton 
and  poultry,  are  improved  in  appearance  by  boiling  rice  with  them ; 
or  boiling  closely  tied  in  a coarse  well-floured  cotton  cloth  is  better, 
and  cooked  in  this  way  the  meat  will  be  very  juicy.  The  cloth 
must  be  wrung  out  of  scalding  water  and  dredged  inside  thickly  with 
flour.  When  the  meat  is  wanted  to  slice  cold  it  will  be  much  im- 
proved if  left  to  cool  in  the  water  in  which  it  is  cooked.  When  to 
be  served  hot  take  up  as  soon  as  done. 

To  boil  meat  Au  Court  Bouillon  make  a Marinade  by  cooking 
in  a saucepan  one  large  onion  and  two  slices  each  carrot  and  turnip 
ten  minutes  in  two  tablespoons  butter ; then  add  four  cloves,  a bunch 
of  sweet  herbs,  two  or  three  stalks  celery,  half  teaspoon  each  pepper 
and  mustard,  stick  cinnamon  and  one  quart  cider,  or  pint  each  vine- 
gar and  water.  Put  meat  in  kettle,  add  marinade  and  water  to  cover 
and  cook  till  tender,  adding  two  tablespoons  salt  quarter  of  an  hour 
before  it  is  done.  This  is  also  nice  for  stewed  beef  or  fish.  Any  flavor- 
ing not  liked  can  be  omitted  in  any  marinade.  The  meat  boiled  for 
soup  may  be  made  into  Jellied  Meat  by  taking  from  the  bones, 
chopping,  and  seasoning  well  with  catsups  and  spices,  moistening 
with  a bowl  of  the  liquor  in  which  it  was  boiled  (taken  out  for  this 
before  vegetables  are  put  in)  and  put  into  molds ; when  cold  turn 


MEATS. 


457 


out  and  slice.  If  the  liquor  is  not  thick  enough  to  jelly,  boil  down 
or  add  a little  gelatine. 

Broiled  Meats. — Broiling  is  the  most  wholesome  method  of 
cooking  meats,  and  is  most  acceptable  to  invalids.  Tough  steak  is 
made  more  tender  by  pounding  or  hacking  with  a dull  knife,  but 
some  of  the  juices  are  lost  by  the  operation ; cutting  it  across  in 
small  squares  with  a sharp  knife  on  l)oth  sides,  being  careful  not  to 
cut  quite  through,  is  better  than  either.  Tough  meats  are  also  im- 
proved by  laying  for  two  hours  on  a dish  containing  three  or  four 
tablespoons  each  of  vinegar  and  salad  oil  (or  butter),  a little  pepper, 
but  no  salt ; turn  every  twenty  minutes  ; the  action  of  the  oil  and 
vinegar  softens  the  fibers  without  extracting  their  juices.  Trim  off 
all  superfluous  fat,  but  never  wash  a freshly-cut  steak.  Never  salt 
or  pepper  steaks  or  chops  before  or  while  cooking,  but  if  very  lean, 
dip  in  melted  butter.  Place  the  steak  on  a hot,  well-greased  grid- 
iron and  leave  only  long  enough  to  sear  one  side  so  that  the  juices 
cannot  escape,  then  turn  and  sear  the  other,  and  cook  from  five  to 
twelve  minutes,  as  wanted  rare  or  well  done,  turning  often,  almost 
continually,  to  keep  in  the  juices  and  prevent  scorching;  the  time 
required  for  cooking  depends  also  upon  thickness  of  steak  and  kind 
of  broiler  used.  Dish  on  a hot  platter,  season  with  salt  and  pepper 
and  bits  of  butter,  cover  with  a hot  platter  and  serve  at  once.  A 
small  pair  of  tongs  are  best  to  turn  steaks,  as  piercing  with  a fork 
frees  the  juices.  If  fat  drips  on  the  coals  below,  the  blaze  may  be 
extinguished  by  sprinkling  with 

salt,  always  withdrawing  the  * 

gridiron  to  prevent  the  steak 
from  acquiring  a smoky  flavor. 

Always  have  a brisk  fire, 
whether  cooking  in  a patent 

broiler  directly  over  the  fire,  or  

on  a gridiron  over  a bed  of  live  - 

coals.  As  the  success  of  the 
broil  depends  upon  the  state  of 

the  fire,  be  sure  that  it  is  very  hot,  perfectly  free  from  smoke  and 
wdll  last  during  the  broiling,  whether  one  or  more  steaks  are  to  be 
cooked.  If  the  fire  is  not  very  clear  put  a cover  over  the  meat  when 
using  a gridiron,  which  will  prevent  its  blackening  or  burning,  and 
this  is  an  ^ especially  good  plan  when  the  meat  is  thick,  or  when 
broiling  birds  or  chickens,  which  are  apt  to  be  rare  at  the  joints  un- 
less this  is  done.  A charcoal  fire  is  of  course  best  for  broiling.  ~ 
Broiling  steak  is  the  very  last  thing  to  be  done  in  getting  breakfast 
or  dinner ; every  other  dish  should  be  ready  for  table,  so  that  this 
may  have  the  cook’s  undivided  attention.  A steel  gridiron  with 
slender  bars  is  better  than  the  ordinary  iron  one,  as  the  broad,  flat 
iron  bars  fry  and  scorch  the  meat,  imparting  a disagreeable  flavor. 
A light  wire  broiler  that  can  be  kept  in  the  hand  and  turned  quickly 


458 


i 


MEATS. 


is  the  best,  if  one  has  not  a patent  broiler.  In  using  the  patent 
broilers,  such  as  the  American  and  the  later  and  better  Dover,  care 
must  be  used  to  keep  all  doors  and  lids  of  stove  or  range  closed  dur- 
ing the  process.  The  dampers  which  shut  off  the  draft  to  chimney 
should  be  thrown  open  before  beginning,  to  take  the  flames  in  that 
direction.  Never  take  lid  from  broiler  without  first  removing  it 
from  fire,  as  the  smoke  and  flames  rush  out  past  the  meat  and  smoke 
it. 


Fried  Meats. — Frying,  proper,  is  immersing  in  enough  hot  fat 
to  cover  the  article,  and  when  the  fat  is  hot,  and  properly  managed, 
the  food  is  quickly  crisped  at  the  surface  and  does  not  absorb  the  fat. 
The  process  of  cooking  in  just  enough  fat  to  prevent  sticking  has 
not  yet  been  named  in  English,  but  is  called  Sauteing  iruFrench  and 
is  popularly  known  as  frying  in  this  country;  it  is  not  nearly  so 
nice  nor  healthful  a method  as  Frying  hy  Immersion.,  though  very 
generally  practiced  everywhere.  The  secret  of  success  in  immersing 
is  what  the  French  call  the  “surprise.”  The  fire  must  be  hot  enough 
to  sear  the  surface  and  make  it  impervious  to  fat,  and  at  the  same 
time  seal  up  the  rich  juices.  As  soon  as  meat  is  browned  by  this 
sudden  application  of  heat,  the  pan  may  be  moved  to  a cooler  place 
on  stove,  that  the  process  may  be  finished  more  slowly.  This  method 
of  frying  renders  the  meat  more  tender,  and  is  a nice  way  of  cook- 
ing tough  steaks.  For  instructions  as  to  preparing  and  heating  fat, 
see  Fritters.  When  improperly  done,  frying  results  in  an  unwhole- 
some and  greasy  mess,  unfit  for  food,  but  with  care,  plenty  of  fat 
(which  may  be  used  again  and  again),  and  the  right  degree  of  heat, 
nothing  is  easier  than  to  produce  a crisp,  delicious  and  healthful 
dish.  Steaks  and  chops,  or  cutlets,  are  very  nice  either  single- 
breaded  or  dipped  in  batter,  as  Fritters,  and  fried.  For  complete  di- 
rections for  breading  see  Croquettes.  Finely  sifted  bread-crumbs, 
cracker  dust,  granula,  cerealine,  Graham  and  corn  meal  are  all  used 
for  breading  meats.  Be  sure  that  the  fat  for  frying  is  clean  and 
fresh  and  free  from  salt,  or  the  article  fried  will  have  a bad  odor. 
Half  lard  and  half  beef  drippings  make  a good  frying  mixture  for 
either  sauteing  or  immersing,  though  lard  is  largely  used  alone,  and 
for  those  who  cannot  eat  articles  fried  in  lard,  drippings  or  Ameri- 
can cooking  oil  should  be  used.  The  latter  is  much  superior  to  any- 
thing else  for  frying  purposes,  and  the  drippings  from  veal,  lamb, 
beef  and  pork  are  better  than  lard,  if  carefully  clai*ified  according  to 
directions  hereafter  given  ; but  the  mutton  fat  should  be  clarified 
and  put  away  by  itself  and  used  only  for  frying  mutton  chops,  etc., 
as  many  persons  dislike  the  flavor.  Fried  meat  should  be  sent  to 
table  the  moment  it  is  done,  as  the  smallest  delay  tends  to  make  the 
meat  lose  its  crispness  and  become  flabby,  ^ 

Larding  Meats. — This  is  a very  nice  way  of  preparing  meat, 
game  or  poultry  for  roasting.  Either  fat  bacon  or  fat  salt  pork  may 


MEATS. 


459 


be  used,  and  is  better  for  this  purpose  if  cured  without  saltpeter, 
which  reddens  white  meats.  For  larding  small  birds  cut  the  bacon 
or  pork  into  strips  of  same  size  one  and  a half  inches  long  and  a six- 
teenth of  an  inch  thick ; for  chickens  from  an  eighth  to  quarter  of 
an  inch  thick,  and  for  venison,  beef  and  other  meats  two  inches  long 
and  half  an  inch  thick.  These  strips  are  called  lardoons  and  are 
inserted  in  the  surface  of  the  meat  with  a larding  needle  as  follows  : 
With  the  point  of  larding  needle  make  three  distinct  lines  across 
half  an  inch  apart ; run  needle  into  third  line,  at  further  side,  and 
bring  it  out  at  the  first,  placing  one  of  the  lar- 
doons in  it ; draw  the  needle  through,  leaving 
one-fourth  inch  of  bacon  exposed  at  each  end ; 
proceed  thus  to  end  of  row  ; then  make  another 
line  half  an  inch  distant,  stick  in  another  row  of 
lardoons,  bringing  them  out  at  the  second  line, 
leaving  the  ends  of  the  bacon  all  same  length ; make  the  next  row 
again  at  the  same  distance,  bringing  the  ends  out  between  the  lar- 
doons of  the  first  row  ortwo,proceeding  in  this  manner  until  the  whole 
surface  is  larded  in  chequered  rows  as  shown  in  cut.  After  inserting 
the  needle  work  it  around  a little  to  enlarge  the  opening,  and  the 
lard  .ons  will  slip  through  easier.  In  warm  weather  it  is  well  to  place 
the  lardoons  in  a bowl  of  ice  to  harden  before  using.  Care  must  be 
taken  not  to  have  the  strips  too  large  for  the  needle  or  they  will  be 
pressed  out  as  soon  as  the  loose  part  of  the  needle  touches  the  meat. 
Before  Larding  Blrds^  hold  breast  over  clear  fire  for  a min- 
ute, or  dip  it  in  boiling  water,  then  proceed  as  above,  using  a smaller 
needle  than  for  meats.  Larding  needles  are  not  expensive  costing 
only  from  ten  to  thirty  cents,  but  if  one  is  not  at  hand  the  larding 
can  be  very  neatly  done  by  making  incisions  with  a pen-knife  and 
pushing  the  lardoons  through  with  the  fingers,  pinching  the  meat 
up  with  one  hand  while  cutting  and  putting  the  lardoons  in  with 
the  other.  When  preparing  a roast  in  haste,  strips  of  fat  salt  pork 
or  bacon  are  often  tied  over  meat  or  breasts  of  birds,  instead  of 
larding,  and  this  is  called  “barding.”  The  fat  from  the  fowl  itself 
may  be  used  for  this  purpose  instead  of  bacon.  All  white-fleshed 
birds  are  improved  by  larding,  as  well  as  veal  and  sweetbreads. 

Molded  Meat. — Chop  fine  a pound  lean  meat  of  any  kind,  and 
add  to  it  a chopped  onion,  tablespoon  fine  bread-crumbs,  teaspoon 
salt,  saltspoon  white  pepper,  cup  gravy  (made  by  boiling  the  bones 
or  pieces  left  after  cutting  off  the  lean,  then  straining  and  season- 
ing). Stir  all  together  and  let  stand  half  an  hour.  Butter  a deep 
bowl,  pudding  dish  or  mold,  press  in  the  mixture  and  cover  with  a 
plate.  Place  in  a pan  of  water  and  cool  in  moderate  oven  one  hour. 
Turn  out  carefully  and  serve  hot  with  any  of  the  following  sauces : 
For  Molded  Mutton^  W\\h.  a dessertspoon  of  currant  jelly; 

for  Beef^  gravy  flavored  with  mushrooms  or  horse-radish  sauce ; for 


460 


MEATS. 


Yeal  or  Fowl,  tomato  sauce ; for  Pork,  apple  auce,  fresh  onions  or 
onion  sauce.  It  can  also  be  sliced  cold. 

Potted  Meats. — If  wanted  to  be  kept  for  some  time,  the  -meat 
must  be  good  and  well  dressed,  but  if  to  be  used  within  a day  or 
two  any  odds  or  ends  will  do  ; when  cooked,  all  bone,  skin  and  sinew 
must  be  removed,  and  the  meat  pounded  in  a mortar  with  clarified 
butter,  cayenne,  and  spices  to  taste,  until  a smooth  paste.  Press  the 
mixture  into  pots  or  jars  of  small  size,  until  about  two-thirds  full. 
Pour  a layer  of  clariried  melted  butter,  or  good  drippings  (beer  is  pref- 
erable to  any  other),  or  mutton  suet,  upon  the  top  of  the  paste  to 
the  depth  of  an  eighth  of  an  inch,  for  the  purpose  of  excluding  the 
air.  Always  wait  till  the  meat  is  cold  before  potting  and  press  very 
firmly  into  the  jars,  not  allowing  a drop  of  gravy  to  get  in,  for  it  will 
turn  the  potted  or  preserved  meat  sour.  Tie  oilskin  or  oiled  paper 
over  the  jars.  The  air  must  be  excluded.  Although  these  pastes 
are  tit  to  eat  almost  immediately  they  will  keep  perfectly  good  for  a 
year,and  often  a longer  period.  The  most  popular  meats  for  potting  are 
Yeal,  Ham,  Beef,  Tongae,  Game  and  Poultry.  Fish  is  done  in  the 
same  way — such  as  Anchovies,  Prawns  and  Shrimps.  Potted  foods 
of  this  description  are  intended  as  relishes  for  the  breakfast,  lunch- 
eon and  supper-table  chiefly,  served  in  slices  or  spread  on  toast  or 
bread.  Any  cold  remains  of  meat  may  be  potted,  and  in  every  well- 
regulated  English  house  potting  is  an  every-day  affair  for  the  cook. 
If  ham,  game,  tongue,  beef,  or  fish  is  served  one  day,  it  comes  on 
potted  next  day  at  lunch  or  breakfast.  This  is'  a very  good  way  of 
managing  left-over  food,  instead  of  invariably  making  into  hashes, 
stews,  etc.  Clarified  Butter  for  potting,  or  any  of  the  other  pur- 
poses for  which  it  is  used,  is  prepared  by  placing  the  butter  in  a 
bowl  and  set  in  a saucepan  of  cold  water,  (or  use  a custard ‘kettle), 
which  should  be  heated  slowly  until  butter  melts  and  the  scum 
forms ; remove  from  fire,  skim,  and  return  to  warm  again  gently, 
then  let  stand  a moment  or  two  to  settle,  strain  and  put  over  the 
potted  meat,  or  bottle  for  future  use.  When  taken  off  the  pots  as 
opened  for  table  the  butter  may  be  used  for  common  pie  paste,  bast- 
ing meg.ts  and  for  fish  sauce. 

Roasted  A/e«?^5.~Roasting  proper  is  almost  unknown  in  these 
days  of  stoves  and  ranges — baking,  a much  inferior  process,  having 
taken  its  place.  In  roasting,  the  joint  is  placed  close  to  abrisk,  open 
fire,  on  a spit  or  in  a tin  kitchen,  turned  so  as  to  expose  every  part 
to  the  fire,  and  then  moved  back  to  finish  in  a more  moderate  heat. 
The  roast  should  be  basted  frequently  with  the  drippings,  and,  when 
half  cooked,  with  salt  and  water.  To  roast  in  oven,  the  preparations 
are  very  simple.  The  fire  must  be  bright  and  the  oven  hot.  Trim 
off  any  torn  or  bruised  portions  from  the  roast,  which  will  need  no 
washing  if  it  comes  from  a cleanly  butcher ; wiping  with  a towel 
dampened  in  cold  water  is  all  that  is  needed;  if  washing  is  necessary. 


MEATS. 


461 


dash  over  quickly  with  cold  water  aud  wipe  dry.  Washing  and 
soaking  fresh  meat  draws  out  its  juices  and  impairs  its  nutriment. 
A large  piece  is  best  for  roasting,  this  being  especially  true  of  beef. 
If  meat  has  been  kept  a little  too  long,  wash  in  vinegar,  wipe  dry, 
and  dust  with  a very  little  hour  to  absorb  the  moisture.  Place  in 
pan,  on  a trivet,  or  two  or  three  clean  bits  of  hard  Avood  or  bones 
laid  cross-wise  of  pan,  to  keep  it  out  of  the  fat.  If  meat  is  very  lean, 
add  a tablespoon  or  two  of  Avater  ; if  fat,  the  juices  of  the  meat  aauII 
he  sufficient,  and  the  addition  of  the  water  renders  it  juiceless  and 
tasteless.  The  oA^en  should  he  A^ery  hot  when  the  meat  is  put  in  that 
the  surface  may  be  quickly  seared  or  broAvned  over  and  the  juices 
confined.  Keep  the  fire  hot  and  bright,  baste  every  ten  or  fifteen 
minutes,  and  when  about  half  done  season  well  with  salt  and  turn 
the  roast,  also  seasoning  the  turned  side,  ahvays  keeping  the  thick 
part  of  the  meat  in  the  hottest  part  of  the  oven.  Take  care  that 
every  part  of  the  roast,  including  the  fat  of  the  tenderloin,  is  cooked 
so  that  the  texture  is  changed.  If  the  fire  has  been  properly  made, 
and  the  roast  is  not  large,  it  should  not  require  replenishing,  but,  if 
necessary,  add  a little  fuel  at  a time,  so  as  not  to  check  the  fire,  in- 
stead of  Avaiting  until  a great  deal  must  be  added  to  keep  up  the 
bright  heat.  Most  persons  like  roast  beef  and  mutton  underdone, 
and  less  time  is  required  to  cook  them  than  for  pork  and  veal  or 
lamb,  which  must  be  very  Avell  done.  Fifteen  minutes  to  the  pound 
and  fifteen  minutes  longer  is  the  rule  for  beef  and  mutton,  and  twenty 
minutes  to  the  pound  and  tAA^enty  minutes  longer  for  pork,  veal  and 
lamb.  The  directions  for  beef  apply  equally  well  to  pork,  veal,  mut- 
ton and  lamb.  Underdone  meat  is  cooked  throughout  so  that  the 
bright  red  juices  folloAv  the  knife  of  the  carver ; if  it  is  a livid  purple 
it  is  raw,  and  unfit  for  food.  When  done,  the  roast  should  be  a rich 
broAvn,  and  the  bottom  of  the  pan  coA^ered  with  a thick  glaze  Re- 
moA^e  the  joint,  and  those  who  do  not  salt  before  or  Avhile  roasting 
now  sift  evenly  over  Avith  fine  salt,  and  it  is  ready  to  serve.  Never 
salt  before  cooking,  as  it  draws  out  the  juices.  To  keep  the  roast 
hot  Avhile  making  the  graA^y  place  it  in  a pan  or  on  an  old  platter  in 
the  oven.  To  prepare  graA^y,  pour  off  the  fat  gently,  holding  pan 
steadily,  so  as  not  to  lose  the  gravy  which  underlies  it ; put  pan  on 
stove,  and  pour  into  it  a half  cup  boiling  water,  varying  the  quantity 
AAuth  the  size  of  the  roast ; soup  or  thin  stock  of  any  kind  is  better 
than  Avater  if  at  hand  ; add  a little  salt,  stir  with  a spoon  until  the 
particles  adhering  to  sides  of  pan  are  removed  and  dissolved,  making 
a rich  broAvn  gravy ; if  necessary  add  a thickening  of  a little  flour, 
mixed  smooth  Avith  water,  though  if  a nice,  juicy  roast,  the  gravy  is 
much  better  Avithout.  Some  first  stir  the  flour  into  the  drippings, 
then  pour  in  boiling  Avater. 

In  roasting  all  meats,  success  depends  upon  basting  frequently  by 
dipping  the  gravy  from  the  pan  over  the  meat  with  a large  spoon, 
turning  often  so  as  to  prevent  burning,  and  carefully  regulating  heat 


462 


MEATS. 


of  oven.  Roasts  prepared  with  dressing  require  more  time  than  those 
without.  In  roasting  meats  if  necessary  to  add  water  do  not  put  it 
in  until  the  meat  has  been  in  the  oven  about  half  an  hour,  or  until 
it  begins  to  brown,  and  then  only  a very  little,  a half  cup  or  so,  of 
hot  water.  The  appearance  of  a roast  is  very  much  improved  by 
dredging  with  flour  after  each  basting,  commencing  about  half  an 
hour  before  the  meat  is  done.  Do  this  with  the  flour  after  dredging 
evenly  all  over,  first  seasoning  with  salt.  When  the  flour  has  be- 
come thoroughly  lirowned,  which  will  be  in  about  ten  minutes,  baste 
and  dredge  again  ; continue  thus  until  done,  then  season  Avith  pep- 
per and  the  meat  aauII  be  sent  to  table  coA^ered  with  a handsome  broAvn 
crust.  Do  not  baste  after  the  last  dredging,  and  never  baste  after 
dredging  until  the  flour  has  become  thoroughly  browned.  If  Avanted 
nicely  frothed,  baste  AAuth  butter  the  last  time,  then  dredge  with 
hour. 

Although  Ave  consider  the  above  much  the  better  method  of 
roasting  meat,  some  prefer  to  omit  the  dredging  entirely,  and  others 
begin  to  dredge  Avith  the  first  basting.  Some  good  cooks  first  covei 
the  bottom  of  pan  rather  lightly  Avith  flour,  then  put  meat  on  trivet 
in  pan  and  place  in  oA^en  until  the  flour  is  broAvned ; sufficient  watei 
is  then  added  to  cover  bottom  of  pan,  the  oven  is  closed  for  about 
ten  minutes,  Avhen  the  meat  is  basted  Avith  the  liquid  in  pan  and 
dredged  with  salt,  pepper  and  flour ; this  is  repeated  every  fifteen 
minutes  until  roast  is  done.  The  claim  is  made  that  though  the 
steam  from  the  Avater  and  the  salting  of  the  meat  both-  have  a ten- 
dency to  draAv  out  the  juices,  by  beginning  thus  early  to  dredge  Avith 
flour  a paste  is  formed  oA^er  the  meat  Avhich  keeps  in  the  juices  and 
also  enriches  the  roast.  WhicheA'^er  method  is  followed,  be  sure  that 
the  oven  is  hot  Avhen  the  meat  is  put  in  and  the  heat  kept  steady 
throughout.  The  meat-rack  or  trivet  is  a necessity  no  housekeeper 
should  attempt  to  do  without,  and  its  cost  is  small.  It  keeps  the 
meat  from  the  bottom  of  pan  and  preA^ents  scorching,  or  the  soaking 
out  of  the  juices  Aidien  Avater  is  used.  An  excellent  marinade  for 
basting  roast  meats  is  made  by  chopping  some  fat  bacon  with  a 
clove  of  garlic  and  sprig  of  parsle}^  adding  salt,  pepper,  tablespoon 
vinegar,  and  four  of  oil;  beat  up  well,  and  baste  the  meat  Avith  it 
Avhile  roasting.  The  variation  in  roasted  meats  consists  simply  in 
the  method  of  preparing  before  putting  in  the  oven.  Some  are  to  be 
larded,  some  stuffed  with  bread  dressing,  and  others  plain,  as  above, 
only  seasoning  Avith  pepper  and  salt.  To  prepare  a Pot-roast^  Avhich 
is  a favorite  method  of  cooking  meats  Avith  many,  place  the  meat, 
neatly  trimmed  if  a thick  piece,  or  rolled  and  skeAvered  if  thin,  in  a 
hot  stewpan  or  round-bottomed  kettle,  in  Avhich  there  is  a little  fat 
or  butter  if  needed  and  turn  to  quickly^  broAvn  or  sear  OA^er  on  all 
sides  to  confine  the  juices.  Then  turn  in  a little  hot  water,  coA^er 
closely  (a  seasoning  of  herbs  or  spice  may  be  added  as  liked),  and 
simmer  gently  until  done.  The  time  required  depends  upon  size 


MEATS. 


463 


and  quality  of  roast,  a four-pound  piece  from  shoulder  of  beef  re 
quiring  about  three  hours.  Care  should  be  taken  that  the  meat  does 
not  scorch  or  burn  to  bottom  of  kettle,  though  only  just  sufficient 
water  to  prevent  this  should  be  kept  in  kettle,  adding  a little  as  it 
cooks  away.  Turn  the  meat  occasionally  to  brown  and  cook  all 
sides  alike,  and  toward  the  last  it  should  fry  gently  in  its  drippings. 
Observe  the  same  rule  for  seasoning  with  salt  and  pepper  as  given 
for  other  roasts.  The  cheaper  cuts  of  meat  are  usually  cooked  in 
this  way,  though  some  think  almost  any  piece  juicier  and  richer  when 
properly  done.  Pot-roasts  are  sometimes  larded,  when  meat  is  very 
lean.  A rich  gravy  may  be  made  from  drippings  in  kettle. 

Steamed  Meats. — This  is  by  far  the  nicest  and  most  economical 
way  of  cooking  meats  ; place  in  steamer  over  hot  water  and  cook  till 
tender ; put  in  pan,  with  any  herbs  or  spices,  if  wished,  season  with 
salt  and  brown  in  oven  by  basting  and  dredging  with  flour  as  in 
Roasted  Meats.  In  a hot  oven  it  will  brown  nicely  in  twenty  or 
thirty  minutes. 

Stewed  Meats. — The  inferior  parts  of  meat  are  generally  used 
for  stews,  which  if  properly  prepared  are  very  palatable.  If  made 
from  fresh  meat,  it  should  be  immersed  in  boiling  water  at  first,  and 
then  placed  where  it  will  simmer  slowly  until  done,  as  in  Boiled 
Meats,  skimming  well ; when  done,  season,  add  thickening,  and  flavor 
to  taste.  Sliced  potatoes  and  any  vegetables  liked  are  cooked  in 
stews,  and  some  first  fry  both  meat  and  vegetables  a few  minutes,  or 
until  brown,  before  pouring  over  the  water  in  which  they  are  to  be 
cooked,  and  which  should  be  only  just  enough  to  cook  the  meat  and 
leave  sufficient  for  gravy.  A simple  stew  of  meat,  well  seasoned, 
with  dumplings  dropped  in  just  before  done,  is  relished  by  nearly 
every  one,  and  dumplings  are  often  added  when  vegetables  are  used. 
Thin  pieces  of  meat  may  be  spread  with  a dressing,  rolled  and  tied, 
then  stewed  with  any  additions  of  flavoring,  vegetables  etc.,  preferred. 
Trimmings  from  roasts  anq  other  meats,  cut  into  pieces  of  same 
size,  may  be  made  into  stews,  and  any  cold  meat  may  be  thus 
utilized.  Stews  should  cook  very  slowly  after  the  boiling  point  is 
reached. 

Boiled  Beef. — Select  a good  rib  piece,  or  thick  piece  from  the 
round  or  rump,  as  a simple  cut  would  be  too  thin ; the  flank,  plate 
and  brisket,  though  all  good  boiling  pieces,  are  too  thin  to  boil  to 
advantage  without  rolling,  but  are  very  easily  rolled  and  kept  in 
place  with  twine  or  skewers.  Wipe  the  meat  with  a damp  cloth  and 
put  on  to  boil  as  directed  in  Boiled  Meats.  Allow  twenty  minutes 
to  each  pound  for  boiling,  and  when  just  done,  add  seasoning  of  salt 
and  serve  with  any  salad  preferred,  or  Horse-radish  Sauce,  made  as 
follows  : Take  equal  proportions  of  horse-radish  and  boiled  apples, 
grate  together  with  good  vinegar  and  a little  sugar  and  rub  with  a 


464 


MEATS. 


wooden  spoon  until  mixture  is  smooth.  Garnish  with  tufts  of 
scraped  horse-radish,  boiled  vegetables  or  parsley.  If  meat  seems 
tough  add  a tablespoon  or  two  vinegar  when  put  on  to  boil.  Fora 
Pot-au-feu  put  six  pounds  beef  in  pot  containing  four  quarts  water, 
set  on  back  of  stove,  skim,  and  when  nearly  boiling  add  teaspoon 
and  a half  salt,  half  pound  liyer,  two  carrots,  four  turnips,  one  head 
celery,  two  onions  (one  of  them  browned),  with  a clove  stuck  in 
each,  and  a piece  of  parsnip.  Skim  again,  and  simmer  four  or  five 
hours,  adding  a little  cold  water  now*  and  then ; skim  off  part  of  fat, 
put  slices  of  bread  in  a soup-tureen,  dish  half  the  vegetables  over 
them,  and  pour  in  the  broth ; serve  the  meat  separately  with  the 
other  half  of  the  vegetables. 

Bouilli  Beef. — Procure  a piece  of  rump  weighing  from  twelve 
to  thirteen  pounds  and  have  the  butcher  remove  hone ; put  an  onion 
in  cavity,  rub  meat  all  over  with  mixed  spices  and  let  stand  two  days 
to  become  tender.  Remove  the  onion  when  put  to  boil,  ^oil  slow- 
ly three  or  four  hours,  skimming  carefully ; add  six  or  eight  cloves 
two  blades  mace  and  a few  celery  tops  to  water  in  which  it  is  to  be 
boiled,  and  about  two  hours  before  done  put  in  two  carrots,  thinly 
sliced,  an  onion  and  some  allspice  and  whole  peppers.  For  the 
gravy,  thicken  a pint  of  the  meat  liquor  with  browned  flour,  add  a 
few  capers  and  a tablespoon  catsup,  pour  over  beef  and  serve. 

Braised  Beef. — Lard  six  or  eight  pounds  good,  lean  beef  with 
salt  pork.  Slice  and  brown  two  onions,  a half  carrot  and  half  tur^ 
nip,  with  six  slices  pork.  When  a rich  color  draw  vegetables  to  one 
side  of  stewpan;  dredge  the  beef  with  flour  seasoned  with  salt  and 
pepper  and  put  in  pan.  Brown  on  all  sides  but  do  not  burn ; add  a 
quart  boiling  water,  any  sweet  herbs  liked,  and  cook  slowly  four 
hours,  basting  every  twenty  minutes.  Add  to  gravy  a can  of  toma- 
toes and  cook  ten  minutes,  strain,  pour  around  beef  and  serve. 
Braised  Chicken  is  cooked  the  same,  trussing  as  for  roasting  with- 
out stuffing.  To  prepare  a Braised  Brisket.^  first  skin  and  trim  it ; 
then  cut  out  bone,  put  in  bottom  of  kettle  and  add  a carrot,  turnip, 
and  small  onion  cut  in  small  pieces,  sprig  of  parsley,  a root  of  parsley, 
a bay  leaf,  tablespoon  whole  cloves,  two  of  pepper-corns,  red  or  dried 
pepper,  half  cup  vinegar.  Place  meat  on  this  with  boiling  water  to 
cover ; set  kettle  where  it  will  boil,  keep  covered,  and  when  boiling 
put  on  back  of  stove,  add  heaping  teaspoon  salt  and  simmer  three 
hours  or  longer.  Take  up  and  keep  hot  while  making  gravy  by 
straining  broth  and  rubbing  vegetables  through  a sieve,  put  a little 
in  saucepan  with  heaping  teaspoon  cold  drippings  and  tablespoon 
flour ; stir  till  nicely  browned,  then  add  little  over  pint  of  the  strained 
broth,  half  cup  at  a time,  till  a nice  gravy,  and  season  to  taste ; or  if 
vegetables  are  cooked  with  meat  allow  time  for  each  kind  to  cook 


MEATS. 


465 


Braised  Fillet  of  Beef. 


before  meat  will  be  done.  Braised  Fillet  of  Beef  is  done  after 
either  of  above  methods,  putting  it  in  the 
oven  a few  minutes  before  serving  to  dry 
the  larding.  Garnish  with  cut  vegetables, 
cutting  into  squares,  diamonds,  or  balls  or 
other  shapes  with  vegetable  cutter,  and 
pile  in  little  heaps  around  the  platter,  interspersing  with  aspara- 
gus heads,  cauliflower  blossoms,  celery  tops  or  sprigs  of  parsley.  The 
fillet  maybe  served  whole  or  cut  in  slices  ready  for  serving,  as  illus- 
trated. For  a Braised  Roll  of  Beef^  procure  a piece  of  flank  fifteen  to 
eighteen  inches  long  and  six  or  eight  inches  wide.  Have  butcher  take 
off  outside  skin.  Season  with  salt,  pepper  and  powdered  cloves  and 
allspice  to  taste.  Roll  up  in  tight  roll,  tie  in  shape  and  cook  same 
as  brisket  with  vegetables.  Best  cooked  in  jar  with  cover  cemented 
on,  or  use  great  care  in  keeping  covered.  To  make  more  elaborate  a 
forcemeat  can  be  made  of  one  cup  soaked  bread,  quarter  cup  chopped 
salt  pork  with  seasoning  of  pepper,  and  spread  over  the  flank,  oi 
sausage  can  be  used  in  same  way,  then  rolled  up  as  before.  Th^ 
regular  utensil  used  by  the  French  for  braising  is  an  earthenware 
pot  or  pan  with  lid  cemented  down  with  a paste  of  flour  and  water. 
Another  utensil  is  a kettle  with  a sunken  lid  or  pan  fitting  tightly 
inside  of  kettle,  and  hot  ashes  and  charcoal  put  in  this.  A gentle 
fire  under  the  kettle  cooks  the  meat  perfectly.  An  ordinary  iron 
kettle  does  very  well,  however,  if  kept  closely  covered.  When  the 
kettle  with  hot  charcoal  is  used  cover  the  meat  with  buttered  paper. 


Curried  Beef. — Fry  two  sliced  onions  a light  brown  in  two 
tablespoons  batter  and  mix  in  a tablespoon  and  a half  curry  powder ; 
add  beef  cut  into  inch  square  pieces,  with  a pint  milk,  and  a quarter 
of  a cocoa-nut,  grated  and  strained  through  muslin  with  a little 
water,  and  simmer  thirty  minutes,  stirring  constantly  to  prevent 
burning.  Turn  into  a dish,  squeeze  in  a little  lemon  juice  and 
send  to  table  with  a wall  of  mashed  potato  or  boiled  rice  around  it. 

Potted  Beef. — Season  three  pounds  beef  with  pepper  and  salt 
and  put  in  a pan,  with  a half  pound  butter  cut  into  bits  over  it. 
Cover  closely  with  an  air-tight  cover  or  a paste  crust  and  bake  four 
hours  and  a half.  When  cold  cut  out  all  stringy  pieces,  pound  the 
beef  in  a mortar  and  work  to  a paste  with  four  tablespoons  fresh 
butter,  some  of  the  gravy  from  baking  pan  and  a seasoning  of  ground 
allspice  and  cloves,  a little  mace  and  pepper.  Press  into  jars  and 
cover  with  clarified  butter.  Some  use  any  cold  beef  left  over  for 
potting.  Potted  Veal  may  be  prepared  same,  omitting  the  cloves. 
If  to  be  kept  long  the  beef  should  first  be  rubbed  with  a pound  com- 
mon salt,  quarter  ounce  saltpetre  and  two  ounces  coarse  sugar  and 
let  remain  in  brine  two  days  before  seasoning  and  cooking,  and  when 
potted  it  should  be  covered  with  the  butter  and  tied  doAvn  with  but- 
tered paper  or  oil-cloth  cover.  For  Pounded  Beef,  boil  a shin  of 
30 


4G6 


MEATS. 


twelve  pounds  of  beef  until  it  falls  readily  from  the  bone ; pick 
to  pieces,  mash  or  pound  gristle  and  all  very  fine  and  pick  out  all 
hard  bits.  Set  the  liquor  away  and  when  cool  take  off  all  fat ; boil 
the  liquor  down  to  a pint  and  a half,  then  return  the  meat  to  it  while 
hot,  add  what  salt  and  pepper  is  needed,  and  any  spice  liked  ; boil 
up  a few  times,  stirring  all  the  while  and  put  in  mold  or  deep  dish 
to  cool.  Serve  cold  and  cut  in  thin  slices  for  tea,  or  warm  it  for 
breakfast.  Another  excellent  method  is  to  cut  the  lean  meat  from 
a tenqDOund  shin  of  beef,  break  up  the  bone  and  lay  it  in  the  bot- 
tom of  a soup-kettle,  lay  the  meat  on  the  bones,  cover  with  cold 
water,  set  over  the  fire  and  slowly  heat  to  boiling  point,  removing 
all  scum  as  it  rises.  Meantim^e  peel  two  turnips  and  two  onions  of 
medium  size,  scrape  a carrot,  and  put  them  with  the  beef  after  broth 
is  skimmed  ; put  in  about  half  a cup  parsley  or  sweet  herbs,  if  ob- 
tainable, without  breaking  the  stems,  and  a level  tablespoon  salt ; 
cover  kettle  closely,  and  boil  slowly  six  hours ; then  take  up  the 
meat,  fat  and  gristle,  and  free  it  from  bone ; put  into  a colander 
and  rub  through  with  a potato-masher ; season  highly  and  press  it 
down  firmly  in  a tin  or  earthen  mold.  Strain  the  broth  in  which 
the  beef  was  boiled  and  save  it  for  soup,  first  using  enough  to  just 
moisten  the  beef  in  mold ; put  a weight  on  the  beef  to  keep  it  down, 
and  let  cool  entirely  before  using.  When  quite  cold  turn  out  of 
mold,  and  nut  in  thin  slices  before  sending  to  the  table.  Nice  for 
luncheon  or  supper. 

Pressed  Beef. — Roll  and  tie  a piece  of  corned  brisket  of  beef 
in  a cloth  and  simmer  gently  in  plenty  of  water  four  or  five  hours ; 
when  done  remove  the  string,  tie  the  cloth  at  each  end,  put  upon  a 
dish  with  another  dish  over,  upon  which  place  a heavy  weight,  leav- 
ing it  until  quite  cold,  then  take  the  meat  from  the  cloth,  trim  and 
glaze  it  lightly,  and  serve  garnished  with  a few  sprigs  of  fresh  pars- 
ley. Or  take  any  fresh,  lean  beef  and  boil  closely  covered  till  it  will 
fall  from  the  bones  ; use  only  enough  water  to  prevent  burning  ; 
mix  and  chop  tine  ; put  it  in  a pan  or  deep  dish  ; skim  excess  of 
grease  from  the  cooking  liquor  and  add  to  each  three  or  four  pounds 
of  meat  a tablespoon  gelatine,  dissolved  ; put  it  on  a large  platter  or 
tin  that  rnll  fit  the  dish,  and  place  on  this  a twelve  to  twenty  pound 
weight ; when  cold  it  will  be  a solid  mass  from  which  slices  may  be 
cut ; will  keep  several  days,  even  in  warm  weather,  if  kept  cool. 

Roast  Beef. — The  fillet  or  tenderloin  is,  of  course,  the  choicest 
roast,  but  so  expensive  that  it  is  served  only  at  very  elegant  dinners 
or  banquets  ; next  comes  the  sirloin  roast,  then  the  rib,  round,  rump, 
and  shoulder  or  chuck  roasts.  In  choosing  a rib  roasf  some  prefer 
the  first  second  and  third  ribs,  called  the  fore-rib  roast,  while  others 
order  the  third,  fourth  and  fifth,  which  contain  more  meat  and  are 
without  doubt  most  economical.  There  are  twelve  ribs  of  which  the 
last  five  are  classed  with  chuck  roasts.  A two-rib  roast  is  sufficient 


MEATS. 


4G7 


for  a half-dozen  persons,  and  no  less  should  be  roasted  for  a smaller 
number,  as  a one-rib  roast  wastes  and  dries  up  greatly  in  cooking. 
Prepare  and  cook  as  directed  in  Roasted  Meats,  or  in  any  of  the 
recipes  that  follow.  When  ordering  a rib  roast  have  the  hones  re- 
moved and  the  roast  rolled  and  skewered  or  tied  in  compact  form. 
When  served  take  out  wooden  skewer  and  replace  with  a silver  one. 
If  one  has  not  a meat  rack  or  trivet,  the  hones  may  be  ordered  sent 
home  with  the  roast  and  placed  under  it  when  put  in  pan.  Some 
prefer  to  cover  the  roast  with  a coarse  flour  and  water  paste,  which 
should  be  taken  off  to  baste  and  brown  the  meat  before  serving.  For 
a nice  Riimn  take  three  pounds  of  rump,  trim  nicely,  and  cut 

off  ali  fat.  Chop  all  sorts  of  sweet  herbs  together,  very  fine,  with  a 
little  shallot  and  a great  deal  of  spice,  put  in  saucer  that  has  been 
rubbed  vflth  garlic,  and  cover  with  vinegar.  Cut  fat  bacon'into  long 
slips,  dip  it  into  the  herbs  and  vinegar,  and  let  the  herbs  be  very 
thick  upon  the  bacon ; lard  the  beef  regularly  with  these  on  both 
sides,  if  necessary,  in  order  that  it  should  be  thoroughly  flavored. 
Rub  the  beef  over  with  the  remainder  of  the  herbs  and  spice,  flour 
it,  add  piece  of  butter,  size  of  walnut,  rolled  in  flour,  and  pint  water. 
Bake  in  oven,  strain  the  gravy,  which  will  scarcely  require  either 
thickening  or  browning,  and  serve  with  pickles  on  top.  Excellent 
when  cold,  but  should  be  served  hot  at  first.  The  gravy  may  be 
boiled  to  a glaze  if  liked.  For  a German  Roast  procure  a rib-piece  or 
loin-roast  of  seven  to  eight  pounds.  Beat  it  thoroughly  all  over, 
lay  it  in  the  baking  pan  and  baste  with  melted  butter.  Put  it  inside 
the  well-heated  oven,  and  baste  frequently  with  its  own  fat,  which 
will  make  it  brown  and  tender.  If,  when  it  is  cooking  fast,  the  gravy 
is  growing  too  brown,  turn  a glass  of  German  cooking  wine  into  the 
bottom  of  the  pan,  and  repeat  this  as  often  as  the  gravy  cooks  away. 
The  roast  needs  about  two  hours  time  to  bo  done,  and  must  be  brown 
outside  but  inside  still  a little  red.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper. 
Squeeze  a little  lemon  juice  over  it,  and  also  turn  the  gravy  upon  it, 
after  skimming  off  all  fat.  Or  choose  four  pounds  rib  beef,  take  out 
bones,  put  in  pan  with  some  beef  broth  and  cook  until  all  broth  is 
absorbed.  Then  take  some  parsley,  garlic  and  twenty  mushrooms 
chopped  fine,  a good  piece  of  butter,  pepper,  salt,  mix  well  and  spread 
the  beef  with  it,  cover  with  buttered  paper  and  bake  in  a quick  oven 
till  well  cooked  on  all  sides.  ¥ or  French  Roast  Beef^len^YQ  the 
meat  two  days  in  winter  and  eighteen  hours  in  summer  in  a prepa- 
ration of  four  tablespoons  sweet  oil,  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper, 
two  tablespoons  chopped  parsley,  four  sliced  onions,  two  bay  leaves 
and  juice  of  half  a lemon  ; put  half  on  meat  and  half  under  it ; this 
improves  the  meat  and  makes  it  more  tender.  Place  the  meat  on 
the  spit  or  in  pan  for  roasting,  and  baste  with  these  seasonings  or 
with  melted  butter.  The  oven  should  be  quick  and  as  soon  as  a 
coating  or  crust  forms,  the  fire  can  be  slackened  a little  to  prevent 
burning.  Baste  well  and  often,  and  serve  underdone  and  juicy. 


468 


MEATS. 


Some  like  a Bed  of  Vegetables  for  roast  beef,  which  is  prepared  by 
placing  in  pan  some  scraps  of  salt-pork,  a tablespoon  each  sliced 
carrots,  and  turnips,  teaspoon  each  sliced  onions  and  pepper-corns, 
half  a dozen  whole  cloves,  half  a bay  leaf  and  a little  parsley ; or  use 
only  the  pork  with  a part  of  the  vegetables,  etc.  Add  a very  little 
water,  unless  a great  deal  of  pork  is  used.  When  done,  pour  away 
nearly  all  the  drippings,  leaving  about  two  tablespoons,  which  rub 
through  a fine  sieve  Avith  the  vegetables,  using  a potato-masher,  and 
return  pulp  to  pan,  or  put  in  saucepan,  add  one  tablespoon  flour, 
stir  till  brown  and  then  slowly  add  one  pint  water.  A Round  Roast 
of  beef  is  nice  with  the  bone  remoA^ed  and  the  cavity  filled  with 
force-meat.  A nice  AA^ay  to  prepare  a thin  piece  of  flank  or  low  priced 
steak,  is  to  make  a dressing  of  bread-crumbs  as  for  roast  turkey  or 
chicken,  spread  over  the.  meat,  and  beginning  at  one  end  roll  up 
tightly,  bind  AAuth  tAvine  and  roast  as  directed.  Very  nice  sliced  off 
thin  for  luncheon  or  tea.  A good  Mustard  Sauce  to  serve  Avith  roast 
beef  is  made  by  thoroughly  mixing  one  tablespoon  Aunegar,  two  of 
dry  mustard,  a teaspoon  each  flour,  salt  and  sugar,  beaten  yolks  of 
two  eggs,  and  a cupAvater.  Dissolve  tAvo  tablespoons  butter  on  the 
fire,  add  to  the  aboA^e  mixture  and  stir  till  it  boils.  If  too  stiff,  add 
Avater  or  Aunegar,  as  it  must  pour  out  like  cream.  Thinly-sliced 
pickles,  or  a teaspoon  tarragon  Aunegar  improve  the  sauce. 

Roast  Beef  with  Yorkshire  Pudding  is  a favorite  dish  in  many 
families.  Prepare  and  bake  as  above,  and  about  half  an  hour  before 
the  roast  is  done  make  the -pudding  and  turn  into  a hot  buttered 
pan  like  the  one  in  Avhich  the  meat  is  cooking. 
Place  a rack  across  it,  not  in  it,  and  remoA^e  the 
roast  from  the  pan  in  Avhich  it  is  cooking  and 
With  Yorkshire  Pudding,  placc  it  Oil  tlfls,  that  thc  drippings  from  it  may 
enrich  the  pudding.  If  one  has  not  another  pan,  the  meat  ma.y  be 
taken  up,  the  gravy  poured  off,  the  pudding  placed  in  the  same  pan, 
the  rack  placed  over  and  the  meat  returned.  If  a rack  is  not  at  hand 
skcAvers  or  strips  of  clean  hard  Avood  may  be  put  aceoss  the  pan 
resting  on  the  edges,  to  keep  the  meat  off  the  pudding.  Serve  the 
pudding  cut  in  squares  as  a garnish  for  the  roast.  The  folloAA'ing  is 
the  recipe  for  the  real  old-fashioned  English  pudding  : Put  six  large 
tablespoons  flour  Avith  a teaspoon  salt  into  a boAvl  and  stir  in  enough 
milk  from  a pint  and  a half  to  make  a stiff  batter  ; Avhen  perfectly 
smooth  add  remainder  of  milk  and  four  Avell-beaten  eggs  ; beat  ail 
thoroughly  for  a few  minutes,  then  turn  into  pan  as  above  directed. 
An  ordinary  bread  dressing  is  often  baked  in  the  pan  with  the  roast 
and  served  with  it. 


Rolled  Beef. — Procure  a nice  flank  of  beef  and  Avhen  ready  for. 
cooking,  pepper  and  salt  it  well  and  spread  over  thinly  with  a dress- 
ing made  as  for  turkey  stuffing,  then  roll  up  and  tie,  winding  Avith 


MEATS. 


469 


twine  to  keep  in  place  and  sew  in  a clean,  floured  cloth ; put  a small 
plate  in  the  pot  and  on  this  put  the  meat,  pouring 
over  sufficient  boiling  Avater  to  cover.  Boil  gently 
six  hours,  or  until  well  done,  then  remove  the 
cloth  and  tAvine  and  send  to  table  garnished  Avith 
parsley.  Cut  off  in  nice  slices,  shoAving  alternate  strips  of  dressing 
and  meat.  If  to  be  serA^ed  cold,  leave  bound  Avith  tAvine  until  Avant- 
ed.  Another  very  nice  roll  is  made  from  a flank  piece  as  folloAvs  : 
RenroA^e  the  tough  skin  and  prepare  by  cutting  a thin  slice  from  the 
thicker  part  and  placing  it  upon  the  thin,  that  the  meat  may  be  of 
CA^en  thickness  ; strew  over  it  a tablespoon  sugar  and  a mixture  of 
salt,  pepper,  ground  cloves,  cinnamon,  allspice  and  teaspoon  sum- 
mer savory,  then  sprinkle  Avith  three  tablespoons  A^inegar ; roll  up 
and  tie  Avith  twine.  Let  stand  in  cold  place  tAveAe  hours,  then  cover 
with  boiling  water  and  simmer  gently  from  three  to  four  hours.  If 
to  be  serA^ed  hot,  half  an  hour  before  done  stir  in  four  heaping  table- 
spoons flour  mixed  smooth  Avith  Avater,  season  to  taste,  and  when 
dished  pour  the  gravy  over  the  meat.  Very  nice  serA^ed  cold  in  neat- 
ly arranged  slices  Avith  a garnish  of  parsley.  Still  another  method 
of  preparing  a roll,  also  called  Beef  Ganneloii^  is  to  trim  off  all  fat 
from  one  slice  of  the  upper  part  of  the  round  and  give  the  piece 
a regular  shape.  Chop  trimmnngs  very  fine,  with  a quarter  pound 
boiled  salt  pork  and  a pound  lean  cooked  ham  ; add  a speck  cayenne, 
one  teaspoon  each  mixed  mustard  and  onion  juice,  one  tablespoon 
lemon  juice  and  three  eggs.  Season  the  beef  Avith  salt  and  pepper, 
spread  the  mixture  over  it,  roll  up  and  tie  Avith  tAAnne,  being  careful 
not  to  draw  too  tightly,  and  cook  as  in  first  recipe  for  Braised  Beef. 
Add  more  seasoning  to  graAy  if  necessary,  but  the  constant  dredging 
with  flour  will  thicken  it  sufficientlA\  Slide  the  cake  turner  under 
the  beef,  lift  carefully  to  hot  dish,  and  remove  the  string,  skim  off 
all  fat  and  strain  the  gravy  through  a fine  sieA^e  on  the  meat.  Gar- 
nish Avith  a border  of  toast  or  diced  potatoes. 

Beef  Loaf. — Three  pounds  round  of  beef  chopped  fine,  three 
eggs  beaten  together,  six  crackers  rolled  fine,  tablespoon  salt,  one 
teaspoon  pepper,  one  tablespoon  melted  butter,  sage  to  taste.  Mix 
well  and  make  like  a loaf  of  bread  ; put  a little  Avater  and  bits  of 
butter  into  the  pan,  inA^ert  a pan  over  it,  baste  occasfonally,  bake  an 
nour  and  a quarter,  and  AA'hen  cold  slice  very  thin.  Or  it  may  be 
packed  in  pudding  dish  and  turned  out  to  serve  Avhole,  slicing  at 
^able.  Or  take  tAAm  pounds  of  the  round,  rind  of  half  a lemon,  three 
cpngs  parsley,  teaspoon  salt,  quarter  teaspoon  pepper,  quarter  of  a 
nutmeg,  two  tablespoons  melted  butter,  one  raAV  egg,  half  a teaspoon 
onion  juice,  and  mustard  if  liked.  Chop  meat,  parsley  and  lemon 
rind  very  fine.  Add  other  ingredients  and  mix  thoroughly  : shape 
into  a roll,  about  three  inches  in  diameter  and  six  in  length  ; roll  in 
buttered  paper  and  bake  thirty  minutes,  basting  with  butter  and 


470 


MEATS. 


water.  When  cooked,  place  on  hot  dish,  gently  unroll  from  paper^ 
and  serve  with  tomato  or  mushroom  sauce  poured  over. 

Beef  Steio. — Pieces  from  the  flank,  the  shoulder  or  chuck  meat, 
the  brisket,  the  neck  and  shin  of  beef  are  usually  selected  for  stew- 
ing, because  of  their  cheapness  and  also  because  this  is  the  most  ac- 
ceptable way  of  serving  the  inferior  parts,  though  a good  round  or 
rump  piece  is  often  used.  For  an  ordinary  stew  take  two  pounds  oi 
flank  or  an^^  cheap  part,  or  if  there  is  bone  in  it  two  and  a half 
pounds  will  be  required  ; prepare  also  an  onion,  carrot,  a half  turnip 
and  four  potatoes,  with  three  tablespoons  flour,  salt,  pepper  and  a 
quart  water.  Cut  all  the  fat  from  the  meat  and  put  the  fat  in  a 
stewpan ; fry  gently  for  ten  or  fifteen  minutes ; cut  the  meat  in 
small  pieces,  season  Avell  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  sprinkle  over  it 
two  tablespoons  flour ; cut  the  onion,  carrot  and  turnip  in  very 
small  pieces,  put  in  pot  with  the  fat  and  fry  all  five  minutes,  stirring 
well  to  prevent  burning.  Put  in  the  meat,  move  it  about  in  the  pot 
until  brown  on  all  sides,  then  add  a quart  boiling  water.  Cover,  let 
boil  up  once,  skim,  and  set  back  where  it  will  just  bubble  for  two 
and  a half  hours.  Then  add  the  potatoes,  cut  in  thin  slices,  and  one 
tablespoon  flour,  mixed  smooth  with  a half  cup  cold  water,  pouring 
about  one-third  of  water  on  flour  at  first,  and  adding  the  rest  when 
perfectly  smooth.  Taste,  and  if  stew  is  not  seasoned  enough  add 
more  salt  and  pepper.  Bring  to  a boil  again,  and  cook  ten  minutes, 
then  add  dumplings  of  raised  biscuit  dough  without  eggs  or  sugar, 
or  made  as  for  baking  powder  biscuit,  cover  tightly  and  boil  rapidly 
at  least  twenty  minutes  before  uncovering.  Some  like  a seasoning 
of  ground  spices,  and  a head  of  celery  gives  a nice  flavor.  Instead 
of  cutting  into  small  pieces,  both  meat  and  vegetables  maybe  cut  in 
slices,  or  cut  the  latter  in  fancy  shapes  with  a 
vegetable  cuttei,  and  serve  with  the  meat  in 
Vegetable  Cutter.  ceiiter  of  platter,  vegetables  at  one  end  and 
dumplings  at  the  other.  A tablespoon  catsup  and  a little  vinegar 
or  any  sharjj  sauce  flavors  the  gravy  nicely.  For  a large  stew  take 
seven  pounds  brisket  of  beef  and  about  an  hour  before  dressing  rub 
over  with  vinegar  and  salt ; put  into  a stewpan  with  sufficient  stock 
or  water  to  cover  it.  Skim  well,  and  when  it  has  simmered  very 
gently  one  hour,  put  in  as  many  carrots,  turnips  and  onions  as 
wanted  and  continue  simmering  till  the  meat  is  perfectly  tender. 
Draw  out  the  bones,  dish  the  meat,  and  garnish  either  with  tufts  of 
cauliflower  or  braised  cabbage  cut  in  quarters.  Thicken  as  much 
gravy  as  required  with  a little  butter  and  flour ; add  spices  and  cat- 
sup as  liked,  give  one  boil,  pour  some  of  it  over  the  meat,  and  place 
the  remainder  in  a tureen.  Serve  the  vegetables  separately,  or  a 
part  of  them  may  be  sliced  and  served  as  a garnish  round  the  meat. 
A bunch  of  herbs,  two  onions  and  twelve  cloves,  with  pepper  and 
salt  to  taste,  flavor  a stew  nicehq  and  force-meat  balls  are  used  for 
garnishing.  Some  prefer  a plain  stew  with  dumplings  and  no  vege- 


MEATS. 


471 


tables.  A most  excellent  stew  is  made  from  a piece  of  the  rump  ; 
pound  it  till  tender,  lay  in  an  iron  kettle  previously  lined  with  slices 
of  pork  and  onions,  with  a few  pepper-corns,  dredge  it  with  salt, 
and  baste  'with  melted  butter.  Cover,  set  over  a good  heat,  and 
when  it  has  fried  a nice  brown,  add  one  pint  German  cooking  wine, 
as  much  more  good  soup  stock,  and  stew  till  soft.  Before  serving, 
take  out  the  meat,  skim  off  the  fat,  add  a tablespoon  flour  mixed 
smooth  with  broth,  add  gradually  still  more  broth  for  the  grav}’, 
strain  it  through  a sieve  and  turn  over  the  previously  dished  meat. 
The  meat  can  be  laid  for  some  days  before  in  vinegar^  or  in  a spiced 
pickle,  or  be  basted  with  either  occasionally  instead  of  lying  in  it. 
A stew  from  Rih  of  Beef  Bones  makes  a pretty  dish.  The  bones 
should  have  left  on  them  a slight  covering  of  meat ; saw^  into  pieces 
three  inches  long ; season  wuth  pepper  and  salt,  and  put  in  stew'pan 
with  one  onion  chopped  flne,  a few  slices  carrot  and  turnip  and 
quarter  pint  gravy.  Stew  gently  till  the  vegetables  are  tender  and 
serve  on  a flat  dish,  within  walls  of  mashed  potatoes. 

For  another  nice  stew,  procure  two  pounds  rump  steak,  and 
make  deep  incisions  in  it,  but  d(»  not  cut  quite  through ; All  them 
with  a mixture  of  bread-crumbs,  a minced  onion,  a little  cream  or 
butter  and  pepper  and  salt.  Roll  up  the  steak  and  put  it  in  a stew- 
pan  with  plenty  of  butter  or  fat;  let  it  stew  very  gently  for  niore 
than  two  hours ; then  serve  wdth  its  own  gravy,  thickened  with  a 
little  flour,  and  flavored  wnth  tomato  sauce,  catsup  or  anything  liked. 
Steieed  Beef  with  Tomatoes  relished  by  many.  First  scald  the 
tomatoes,  skin  and  quarter  and  sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper,  then 
bury  the  meat  in  a stewpan  with  tomatoes,  and  add  bits  of  butter 
rolled  in  flour,  a little  sugar,  and  an  onion  mincea  flne  ; cook  until 
meat  is  done  and  tomatoes  dissolved  to  a pulp.  For  an  Arabian 
Stew  take  the  tender  part  of  the  round  of  beei,  lard  with  raisins, 
spice  well  with  ground  cloves  and  allspice  and  put  over  the  Are  with 
jnly  a little  water  to  prevent  burning ; add  pepper  and  salt  and 
plenty  of  raisins  through  the  gravy  or  sauce.  Any  bits  of  beef 
trimmed  from  roasts  or  steaks,  or  cold  meat  left  over,  may  be  cut  in- 
to slices  or  pieces  of  uniform  size  and  made  into  stews.  Thin  pieces 
of  beef  may  be  seasoned,  then  rolled  and  tied,  first  spreading  with  a 
dressing  if  liked.  The  other  ingredients  composing  the  stew  may  be 
varied  at  pleasure,  also  the  seasonings.  When  no  vegetables  are 
"sed  the  gravy  should  be  thickened  with  a little  flour  and  flavored 
vith  spices,  lemon  juice  and  grated  rind,  catsup,  or  any  sharp  sauce, 
and  served  poured  over  the  beef.  Chopped  mushrooms  are  very  nice 
in  a stew  and  scraped  or  grated  horse-radish  is  often  served  as  a gar- 
nish. An  excellent  Powder  for  Steivs  is  composed  of  one-fourth 
ounce  each  thyme  and  bay  leaf,  one-eighth  ounce  each  marjoram  and 
rosemary ; dry,  pound  and  bottle,  and  use  according  to  taste.  A 
dainty  little  stew  is  called  Beef  Collo'^s;  for  this  have  rump  steak 
cut  thin  and  divide  into  pieces  about  three  inches  long ; hack  with 


472 


MEATS. 


a knife  and  dredge  with  flonr.  Fry  about  three  minutes  in  little 
butter,  then  put  in  stewpan  and  pour  the  gravy  over.  Add  a finely 
chopped  shallot  or  small  onion,  teaspoon  capers,  little  walnut  catsup, 
a piece  of  butter  with  a little  flour  rubbed  in,  and  salt  and  pepper  to 
taste.  Simmer,  not  boil,  ten  minutes  and  serve  in  hot  covered  dish. 

Beef  a la  Mode. — A good  cut  from  the  round  of  beef,  or  the 
rump,  is  generally  used  for  this  dish,  though  a piece  from  the  thick 
flank  is  sometimes  chosen,  and  there  is  a shoulder  cut  which  answers 
ver}^  well.  If  the  round  is  used,  take  out  the  bone,  and  with  a small 
sharp  knife  cut  deep  incisions  nearly  through  the  meat;  into  these 
put  strips  of  tongue,  suet,  pork  or  bacon,  previously  rolled  in  pep- 
per, salt,  cloves  and  nutmeg,  or  a mixture  of  sweet  herbs  and  spices, 
and  some  dip  them  first  in  vinegar,  then  roll  in  the  spices.  Rub  the 
remainder  of  the  herbs,  spices,  etc.,  over  the  beef  and  tie  in  shape. 
Put  slices  of  pork  in  the  bottom  of  an  iron  stewpan  with  sliced  on- 
ions, slices  of  lemon,  one  or  two  carrots  and  a bay  leaf ; lay  the  beef 
in  and  put  over  it  a piece  of  bread-crust  as  large  as  the  hand,  a half- 
pint German  cooking  wine  and  a little  vinegar,  and  afterwards  an 
equal  quantity  of  water  or  broth  till  the  meat  is  half  covered ; cover 
the  dish  closely  and  cook  very  slowly  till  tender,  turning  it  once  or 
twice ; do  not  boil  too  fast  or  it  vrill  be  tough  and  tasteless  when 
done.  Take  out  the  meat,  rub  the  gravy  thoroughly  through  a sieve, 
skim  off  the  fat,  add  some  sour  cream,  return  to  the  stewpan  and 
cook  ten  minutes.  Instead  of  the  cream,  capers  or  sliced  cucumber 
pickles  can  be  added  to  the  gravy  if  preferred,  or  a handful  of  grated 
ginger-bread  or  rye  bread.  The  meat  can  also  be  laid  overnight  or 
for  some  days  in  a vinegar  pickle  spiced  with  a teaspoon  each  ground 
cloves,  mace  and  pepper,  two  teaspoons  salt  and  four  of  sugar.  Or 
a nice  pickle  is  made  with  the  following  ingredients  * One  carrot, 
one  white  turnip,  and  one  onion  sliced,  a leek,  a few  sprigs  of  pars- 
ley, and  a stalk  of  celery  if  in  season,  half  a dozen  cloves,  an  inch 
stick  cinnamon,  two  blades  mace,  one  lemon  sliced,  one  teaspoon 
salt,  and  a saltspoon  white  pepper : put  the  meat  in  a deep  dish  with 
this  mixture,  cover  with  vinegar  and  water  mixed  in  equal  quanti- 
ties, and  let  stand  two  or  three  days,  turning  twice  each  day.  It  will 
then  be  in  good  condition  to  cook.  Tough  meat  may  be  made  very 
tender  by  treating  it  in  this  way  : the  vinegar  softens  the  fibres  of 
the  meat  while  the  vegetables  flavor  it  pleasantly.  This  pickle  may 
be  put  away  in  cold  weather  and  used  again. 

Another  way  of  preparing  this  excellent  dish  is  to  fill  the  open- 
ing made  by  removing  the  bone  with  a bread  stufiing,  tie  in  shape, 
rub  the  meat  well  with  chopped  sweet  herbs,  stick  in  some  cloves 
and  boil  until  tender,  allowing  fifteen  minutes  to  each  pound ; then 
season  with  pepper  and  salt,  thicken  the  gravy  with  flour,  add  cup 
butter  and  chopped  onions  and  cover  pan  again  until  meat  is  brown ; 
add  a scraped  carrot  boiled  with  a little  chopped  parsley  and  some 
tomato  catsup.  If  the  gravy  is  too  thin  add  a little  more  flour  and 


MEATS. 


473 


serve  poured  over  the  meat.  Or  make  a force-meat  by  mixing  to- 
gether in  frying-pan  over  fire  two  tablespoons  butter,  one  of  chopped 
onion,  one  level  teaspoon  each  ground  thyme,  marjoram  and  savory, 
teaspoon  salt,  quarter  saltspoon  pepper,  and  a pint  broken  stale 
bread  moistened  with  cold  water ; when  force-meat  is  hot  fill  the 
place  of- bone  with  it,  or  if  the  meat  had  no  bone,  make  a large  cut 
and  fill  with  the  force-meat ; lay  small  pieces  of  clean  cloth  over  the 
force-meat  on  both  sides,  put  the  meat  into  compact  shape,  and  tie 
firmly,  arranging  the  string  to  keep  the  cloth  in  place  over  the  force- 
meat. Turn  a small  plate  bottom  up  in  a deep  pot  or  saucepan,  lay 
the  meat  on  it,  and  half  cover  with  cold  water ; add  an  onion  peeled 
and  stuck  with  cloves,  and  a level,  tablespoon  each  salt  and  any  good 
table-sauce  or  vinegar,  or  a glass  of  cooking-wine;  set  overthe  fire, 
and  simmer  slowly  four  hours  ; then  put  the  meat  in  a dripping-pan 
remove  the  string,  add  the  gra\y,  dust  thickly  with  flour,  and  brown 
quickly  in  very  hot  oven.  Serve  on  platter  with  a little  gravy  poured 
over  and  the  rest  in  a bowl;  serve  with  a dish  of  hot  boiled  or  baked 
potatoes.  The  meat  is  sometimes  first  browned  by  putting  over  the 
fire  with  slices  of  pork  and  turning  to  brown  all  sides,  sprinkling  in 
a tablespoon  flour  and  turning  to  brown  in  that  also.  The  pot  or 
skillet  in  which  the  meat  is  cooked  should  be  kept  closely  covered. 
Sliced  onions,  carrots,  turnips  and  parsnips  are  often  cooked  with  it, 
first  cut  into  dice  and  fried,  then  meat  put  in,  well  dredged 
with  flour,  and  browned  before  adding  water  and  spices 
in  which  it  is  cooked.  The  meat  is  sometimes  simply 
scored  and  the  incisions  filled  with  a bread  stuffing,  and  some  pre- 
fer steaming  or  baking  to  boiling.  Or  the  meat  may  be  half  roasted 
after  lying  in  either  pickle  given,  then  larded  Vvuth  mushrooms,  and 
returned  to  oven  to  finish,  basting  often.  For  a more  economical 
dish  cut  three  pounds  from  shoulder  into  small  pieces  and  roll  in 
flour ; put  two  tablespoons  drippings  into  stewpan  with  one  thinly 
sliced  onion;  .when  hot  put  in  the  beef  and  stir  well ; as  soon  as 
browned  acid  by  degrees  two  quarts  boiling  water,  (stirring  all  the 
time),  a dozen  allspice,  two  bay  leaves,  half  teaspoon  pepper-corns 
and  salt ; cover  closely  and  stew  very  gently  till  meat  is  tender, 
about  three  hours ; remove  spice  before  serving. 

Fillet  of  Beef. — A fillet,  to  be  plainly  5^et  skillfully  roasted,  to 
be  carved  in  the  kitchen  and  not  sent  to  table  whole,  need  not  have 
all  the  fat  removed,  only  cut  down  thin.  It  must  be  cut  off'  the  top 
side,  however,  which  means  the  side  that  had  the  kidney  fat  upon 
it,  and  a ribbon-like  strip  of  the  skin  covering  taken  off  the  meat  the 
whole  length  down,  as  otherwise  it  will  draw  up  in  oven.  Make  pan 
hot  first  and  put  into  it  all  pieces  of  meat  and  a little  of  the  fat  that 
has  been  trimmed  off*  the  fillet,  and  let  stew  and  bake  in  pan  with 
pint  water  and  a little  salt  to  make  a glaze  or  gravy  on  the  bottom 
for  the  fillet  to  be  rolled  in  at  the  last.  An  hour  after,  or  when  the 
water  is  nearly  all  gone  out  of  the  pan,  make  the  oven  hotter  and 


474 


MEATS. 


put  the  fillet  in  and  roast  quickly.  It  may  be  done  enough  with  the 
thickest  part  medium  rare  in  a hot  oven  in  half  an  hour  or  three- 
quarters,  and  is  sure  to  be  done  through  in  an  hour.  Never  stick  a 
fork  in  it,  but  roll  it  over  in  the  pan  by  means  of  a broad  fork  and 
spoon  several  times,  which  will  make  it  shine  with  the  light  brown 
glaze,  and  cut  full  of  juice  when  done.  Make  a Brown  Gravy  (see 
Gravies)  in  the  pan  and  serve  on  the  slices  of  meat  with  a mush- 
room sauce  around.  Some  think  the  flavor  of  the  fillet  improved  if 
soaked  twelve  hours  in  vinegar  to  cover  with  a sliced  onion,  hunch 
of  parsley  and  seasoning  of  pepper  and  salt.  A Larded  Fillet  of 
Beefi^  a dish  served  at  almost  every  dinner  party,  and  an  excellent 
and  most  satisfactory  one  if  properly  prepared,  but  it  is  nothing  if 
not  neat,  uniform,  precise  and  Avorkman- 
like  in  appearance.  Procure  the  fillet  or 
tenderloin  of  beef  with  the  fat  on  it,  that  is 
with  the  coating  of  suet  that  covers  the  up- 
per side,  and  shave  that  down  until  the  Larded  met  of  Beef, 

covering  of  fat  is  about  as  thick  as  a beefsteak  all  over.  Then  rais< 
the  edge  of  the  fat  at  one  side,  skinning  the  fillet,  and  lay  the  shee^ 
of  fat  over  on  tlie  other  side  without  cutting  otf.  This  is  to  have  it 
attached  ready  to  cover  the  fillet  again  after  larding.  Draw  point  oi 
a sharp  knife  across  and  across  the  skin  inside  the  fat,  to  score  it  so 
that  it  Avill  not  draw  up  in  cooking ; trim  off  the  thin  end  of  the  fil- 
let and  round  off  the  thick  end.  Commence  at  the  thick  end  with 
the  larding  and  lard  as  directed  in  Larding  Meats,  using  lardoons 
an  inch  and  a half  long  and  about  as  thick  as  a common  pencil ; 
then  cover  with  the  sheet  of  fat.  Heat  a long  and  narrow  baking 
pan  with  a tablespoon  salt  and  cup  of  drippings  in  it ; chop  into 
small  pieces  a feAV  beef  or  veal  hones,  and  cover  the  bottom  of  pan 
with  them ; add  three  slices  bacon,  two  carrots,  two  onions,  and  one 
turnip,  sliced,  Avith  a pint  stock.  Season  Avith  salt,  bruised  Avhole 
peppers,  a hay  leaf,  a fcAV  cloA^es,  and  a blade  of  mace.  Place  the 
fillet  in  the  pan  with  the  larded  side  up  and  moisten  with  four  table- 
spoons vinegar.  Have  the  oven  hot,  put  in  fillet  and  roast  it  with 
the  fat  covering  it  half  an  hour  ; then  take  off  fat,  baste  the  fillet 
with  the  contents  of  pan,  and  let  cook  fifteen  minutes  longer,  by 
Avhich  time  the  surface  should  be  broAvn,  and  strips  of  larding  brown 
too,  Avithout  being  burnt  at  the  ends.  Unless  especially  ordered  other- 
Avise,  the  thick  part  of  fillet  should  cut  slightly  rare  in  middle,  while 
the  thinner  portion  is  AA^ell  done.  SerA^e  Avith  BroAvn  Gravy,  or  mush- 
room, Hollandaise  or  tomato  sauce,  and  garnish  AAuth  potato  balls, 
mushrooms,  stuffed  tomatoes,  sliced  vegetables  in  fancy  shapes,  or 
onions  boiled  and  glazed.  If  serA^ed  AAuth  sauce,  this  should  hepoured 
around  the  fillet  The  time  given  cooks  a fillet  of  any  size,  the  shape 
being  such  that  it  aauII  take  half  an  hour  for  either  two  or  six  pounds. 
Save  the  fat  trimmed  from  the  fillet  for  frying,  and  the  lean  part  for 
soup  stock.  A small  fillet  Aveighing  from  two  and  a half  to  three 


MEATS. 


475 


pounds  (the  average  weight  from  a very  large  rump),  will  suffice  for 
ten  persons  at  a dinner  where  served  as  one  course  ; and  if  a larger 
quantity  is  wanted  a great  saving  will  be  made  'if  two  small  fillets 
are  used.  They  cost  about  two  dollars  each,  while  a large  one, 
weighing  the  same,  would  cost  five  dollars.  Fillet  of  Beef  in  Jelly 
is  another  elegant  dish.  For  this  procure  a small  fdlet,trim  and  cut 
a deep  incision  in  the  side,  being  careful  not  to  go  through  to  the 
other  side  or  the  ends.  Fill  this  with  one  cup  veal,  prepared  as  for 
force-meat,  and  whites  of  three  hard-boiled  eggs,  cut  into  rings.  Sew 
up  the  openings,  and  bind  the  fillet  into  good  shape  with  broad  hands 
of  cotton  cloth.  Put  in  a deep  stewpan  two  slices  each  ham  and 
pork,  and  place  the  fillet  on  them ; then  put  in  two  calf’s  feet,  two 
stalks  celery  and  two  quarts  clear  stock  ; simmer  gently  two  hours 
and  a half;  take  up  the  fillet  and  set  away  to  cool ; strain  the  stock, 
and  set  away  to  harden ; when  hard,  scrape  ofi’  every  particle  of  fat, 
and  put  on  the  fire  in  a clean  saucepan,  with  half  a slice  of  onion 
and  whites  of  two  eggs,  beaten  with  four  tablespoons  cold  water. 
When  this  boils  season  well  with  salt  and  setback  where  it  will  just 
simmer  for  half  an  hour,  then  strain  through  a napkin.  Pour  a lit- 
tle of  the  jelly  into  a two-quart  charlotte-russe  mold  (half  an  inch 
deep),  and  set  on  ice  to  harden  ; as  soon  as  hard,  decorate  with  egg 
rings ; add  about  three  spoonfuls  of  the  liquid  jelly,  to  set  the  eggs  ; 
when  hard,  add  enough  jelly  to  cover  the  eggs,  and  when  this  is  also 
hard,  trim  the  ends  of  the  fillet,  and  draw  out  the  thread  ; place  in 
center  of  mold,  and  cover  with  remainder  of  jelly.  If  the  fillet  floats, 
place  a slight  weight  on  it  and  set  in  ice  chest  to  harden.  When 
ready  to  serve,  place  the  mold  in  a pan  of  warm  water  for  half  a 
minute,  and  then  turn  out  the  fillet  gently  upon  a dish.  Put  here 
and  there  a sprig  of  parsley  and  garnish  with  a circle  of  egg  rings, 
each  of  which  has  a stoned  olive  in  the  center.  The  olives  may  he 
opened  very  carefully,  the  stones  removed,  and  the  cavities  thus 
made  filled  in  with  pounded  anchovy.  These  Stuffed  Olives  are  al- 
so served  as  ‘^appetizers,”  and  are  eaten  with  a little  oil,  either  at  the 
beginning  of  the  meal  or  with  the  cheese.  Olives  are  served  occas- 
sionally,  when  quite  sweet,  and  as  imported,  with  a little  of  the  liquor 
in  which  they  are  preserved,  at  dessert,  and  are  also  -often  sent  to 
table  without  removing  the  stones. 

Fricandeau  of  Beef. — Procure  about  three  pounds  of  the  in- 
side fillet  of  the  sirloin,  or  a nice  piece  of  the  rump  may  be  used  ; 
lard  the  beef  as  directed  in  Larding  Meats,  first  sprinkling  the  lar- 
doons  with  a seasoning  of  pepper  and  salt  mixed  with  three  cloves, 
two  blades  of  mace,  and  six  allspice,  well  pounded.  Putin  stewpan 
with  one  pint  stock  or  water,  bunch  sweet  herbs,  two  shallots,  two 
cloves,  and  more  pepper  and  salt.  Stew  meat  gently  until  tender, 
Mffien  take  out,  cover  closely,  skim  off  all  fat  from  gravy  and  strain 
it ; set  it  on  the  fire  and  boil  till  it  becomes  a glaze.  Glaze  the  larded 
side  of  beef  with  this,  and  serve  on  Sorrel  Sauce.,  which  is  made  as 


476 


MEATS. 


follows  : Wash  and  pick  some  sorrel,  and  put  in  a stewpan  with  only 
the  water  that  hangs  about  it ; keep  stirring  to  prevent  its  burning, 
and  when  done,  lay  in  a sieve  to  drain ; chop  and  stew  with  a small 
piece  of  butter  and  four  or  five  tablespoons  good  gravy  for  an  hour, 
and  rub  through  a sieve.  If  too  acid,  add  a little  sugar,  and  brussels 
sprouts  boiled  with  the  sorrel  will  be  found  an  improvement. 

Pot-Roast  of  Beef . — Put  a rather  thick  piece  of  beef  in  a wide, 
flat-bottomed  kettle  with  some  fat  or  slices  of  pork,  or  suet,  and  a 
sliced  onion  or  two,  if  liked,  and  fry  brown,  turning  to  brown  all 
sides  ; four  hours  before  needed  pour  on  just  toiling  water  enough 
to  cover ; cover  with  a closely-fitting  lid,  boil  gently,  and  as  the 
water  boils  away  add  only  just  enough  from  time  to  time  to  keep 
from  burning,  so  that  when  meat  is  tender,  the  water  may  all  be  boiled 
away,  as  the  fat  will  allow  the  meat  to  brown  without  burning ; turn 
occasionally,  brown  evenly  over  a slow  fire,  and  make  a gravy  by 
adding  hot" water  if  necessary  to  the  drippings  and  thicken  wdth 
browned  flour.  Season  the  meat  with  salt  an  hour  before  it  is  done. 
A nice  flavor  is  given  by  putting  in  the  water  three  bay  leaves,  or  a 
bunch  savory  herbs,  with  a half  dozen  each  allspice  and  whole  pep- 
pers. Serve  with  the  gravy  poured  over  the  meat,  which  will  be 
juicy  and  tender  if  properly  cooked,  all  the  juices  having  been  con- 
fined to  the  pot  and  returned  to  the  meat  by  the  process  of  frying 
down.  Potatoes  pared  and  halved  are  sometimes  put  in  with  the 
meat  and  as  the  liquor  boils  away  are  browned  with  it.  Serve  as  a 
garnish  around  the  meat.  Corned  Beef  may  be  freshened  in  cold 
water  by  soaking  overnight,  changing  the  water  once  or  twice,  and 
used  for  pot-roasts,  and  any  other  fresh  meat  may  be  cooked  thus. 
When  the  meat  is  fat  no  other  fat  will  be  needed. 

Ragout  of  Beef. — For  six  pounds  of  the  round,  take  half  dozen 
ripe  tomatoes,  cut  up  with  two  or  three  onions,  put  in  vessel  with 
tight  cover,  add  half  a dozen  cloves,  a stick  cinnamon,  and  a little 
whole  black  pepper ; lard  the  meat  with  fat  pork,  place  it  on  the 
other  ingredients,  and  pour  over  them  half  a cup  vinegar  and 
cup  water;  cover  tightly  and  bake  slowly  in -a  moderate  oven 
four  or  five  hours ; when  about  half  done,  salt  to  taste.  When 
done,  take  out  the  meat,  strain  the  gravy  through  a colander  and 
thicken  with  flour. 

Broiled  Beefsteak. — The  tenderloin,  porterhouse  and  sirloin 
steaks  are  choicest  and  most  expensive,  but  the  flank  steak  is  con- 
sidered a rare  bit,  and  the  round  and  rump  steaks  are  more  nutri- 
tious and  better  flavored.  Have  the  steak  cut  about  three-fourths  of 
an  inch  thick ; trim  off  tough  outer  skin,  gristle  and  bits  of  suet, 
which  will  melt  and  drip  into  the  fire  and  smoke  the  meat,  but  never 
wash  a freshly  cut  steak,  wiping  with  a damp  cloth  instead,  if  neces- 
sary. If  sure  that  the  steak  is  tender  do  not  pound  or  chop  it ; if  a 
little  tough  some  pound  just  enough  to  break  the  fibre,  but  it  is  bet- 


MEATS. 


477 


ter  to  hack  with  a sharp  knife  each  way,  not  cutting  quite  through. 
When  thus  prepared  care  must  be  taken  in  placing  the  steak  to  broil 
to  gather  it  up  in  compact  shape  or  it  will  not  look  well  when  served. 
Never  salt  or  pepper  steak  before  broiling,  for  reasons  heretofore 
given,  hut  if  very  lean  dip  into  melted  butter.  For  complete  direc- 
tions as  to  broiling  see  Broiled  Meats.  Inexperienced  cooks  will 
need  to  try  the  steak  to  know  when  it  is  done ; make  a small  clean 
cut  in  center  with  sharp  knife  and  if  the  inside  is  purple  and  raw 
looking  it  must  be  cooked  longer,  but  if  a bright  red  just  verging  on 
brown,  with  nicely  browned  edges,  it  is  done.  Only  the  mere  out- 
side should  be  browned  for  a well-broiled  steak,  which  should  be 
cooked  in  from  seven  to  twelve  minutes,  as  wanted  rare  or  well  done. 
Some  like  steak  cut  from  an  inch  to  an  inch  and  a half  thick,  which 
will  require  longer  cooking.  Instead  of  seasoning  by  sprinkling 
with  pepper  and  salt  and  putting  bits  of  butter  over  the  steak,  have 
the  butter  placed  on  hot  platter  on  which  it  is  to  be  served,  with  a 
liberal  sprinkling  of  pepper  and  salt ; take  the  steak  up  quickl}^  on 
this  and  press  a little,  then  turn  and  press  again,  and  it  will  be  found 
nicely  seasoned,  and  much  more  evenly  than  in  the  old  way.  Send 
to  table  immediately  as  hot  as  possible,  for  nothing  is  more  tame 
and  unsatisfactory  than  a cold,  clammy  steak.  If  it  must  stand 
while  more  is  broiled  set  over  a kettle  of  hot  water,  in  the  hot  closet, 
or  open  oven,  aiming  to  keep  hot  and  confine  the  steam  and  juices 
without  placing  where  it  will  cook  more.  Broiled  steak  may  be  gar- 
nished with  fried  sliced  potatoes,  or  browned  potato  balls  the  size  of 
a marble,  piled  at  each  end  of  platter,  with  scraped  horse-radish  or 
slices  of  cucumber  or  lemon  or  sprigs  of  parsley.  Mushroom,  oyster, 
tomato,  brown  onion,  drawn  butter  and  other  sauces  are  frequent 
accompaniments  to  steak,  but  true  lovers  of  this  dish,  when  properly 
prepared,  generally  reject  all  additions  but  pepper  and  salt,  though 
some  like  steaks  dished  on  a little  catsup  or  minced  onion.  A bit 
of  onion  rubbed  over  the  platter  before  taking  up  the  steak,  gives  a 
delicate  flavor  that  is  delicious,  without  any  of  the  offensiveness  the 
onion  taste  imparts,  if  used  more  largely.  Some  dredge  round  or 
rump  steaks  on  turning  them  the  last  time  with  a mixture  of  four 
tablespoons  sifted  biscuit  or  rusk  crumbs,  one  tablespoon  salt,  one 
teaspoon  pepper,  a saltspoon  of  either  onion-powder,  mushroom- 
powder  or  finely  pulverized  celery  salt,  and  dish  with  a little  mush- 
room catsup  and  small  piece  of  butter.  Another  nice  way  of  serving 
is  to  have  potatoes  cut  into  long  thin  slices  and  fried  brown  in  but- 
ter, take  up  and  add  to  the  butter  in  which  they  were  fried  a tea- 
spoon minced  herbs,  stir  and  place  on  hot  platter,  dish  the  broiled 
steak  on  this  and  put  the  fried  potatoes  round  as  a garnish. 

For  broiled  or  fried  steaks,  cutlets  and  chops  of  beef,  veal,  lamb 
or  mutton,  a Gold  Marinade  is  made  by  mixing  together  a buuch 
of  sweet  herbs,  cut  fine,  juice  of  half  a lemon,  two  tablespoons  oil, 
six  of  vinegar,  one  of  onion  juice,  a pinch  of  cayenne,  quarter  tea- 


478 


MEATS. 


spoon  pepper  and  half  as  much  ground  cloves.  Sprinkle  the  meat 
with  this  and  let  stand  a day,  or  ten  or  twelve  hours.  When  meat 
is  cooked  season  with  salt  to  taste. 

Fried  Beefsteak. — When  the  means  to  broil  are  not  at  hand, 
the  next  best  method  is  to  heat  the  fr^dng-pan  very  hot,  put  in  steak, 
prepared  as  for  broiling,  but  cut  rather  thinner,  brown  or  sear  as 
quickly  as  possible  on  both  sides  to  keep  in  the  juices,  then  cook 
until  done,  turning  several  times.  A small  pair  of  tongs  are  best  to 
turn  steaks,  as  piercing  with  a fork  frees  the  juices.  When  done 
transfer  to  a hot  platter,  season  Avith  salt  and  pepper,  and  put  over 
it  bits  of  butter ; pile  the  steaks  one  on  top  of  another,  and  cover 
with  a hot  platter.  This  Avay  of  frying  is  both  healthful  and  delicate, 
and  a steak  cooked  thus  has  all  its  juices  preseiwed,  and  in  some  re- 
spects is  nearly  as  good  as  broiled  steak.  Or,  another  Avay  is  to  heat 
frying-pan,  trim  off  the  fat  from  the  steak,  cut  in  small  bits  and  set 
on  to  fry  ; meanwhile  pound  steak,  then  draw  bits  of  suet  to  one  side 
and  put  in  steak,  turn  quickly  over  several  times  so  as  to  sear  the 
outside,  take  out  on  a hot  platter  previously  prepared  Avith  salt  and 
pepper,  turn  once  or  tAAuce  and  return  to  pan,  repeating  the  operation 
until  steak  is  done ; dish  on  a hot  platter,  coA^ering  with  another 
platter,  and  place  Avhere  it  aauII  keep  hot  while  making  gravy.  Place 
a tablespoon  dry  flour  in  frying-pan,  being  sure  to  have  the  fat  boil- 
ing hot,  stir  until  broAvn  and  free  from  lumps  (the  bits  of  suet  may 
be  left  in,  draAving  them  to  one  side  until  flour  is  browned),  pour  in 
about  half  a pint  boiling  Avater  (milk  or  cream  is  better),  stir  well, 
season  Avith  pepper  and  salt,  and  serve  in  graAy  tureen.  Spread  bit^ 
of  butter  over  steak  and  send  to  table  at  once.  Or,  after  seasoning 
with  pepper  and  salt,  sprinkle  Avith  flnely  chopped  parsley,  then  drop 
lemon  juice  over,  and  put  on  bits  of  butter  last ; set  in  hot  oven  a 
moment  for  butter  to  melt  and  soak  into  steak.  Or,  With  Oysters.^ 
put  those  from  which  all  bits  of  shell  have  been  carefully  removed, 
over  the  cooked  steak  AAuth  pieces  of  butter  on  top  and  set  in  hot 
oven  until  the  edges  of  oysters  begin  to  curl,  then  serve.  A little 
water  may  be  added  to  liquor  from  oysters,  with  a thickening  of 
corn-starch,  and  seasoning  to  taste,  making  a sauce  which  may  be 
served  in  spoonfuls  over  the  steak  and  oysters.  Or  put  a pint  oys- 
ters to  drain  in  colander,  turning  cup  AA^ater  over  them  ; put  all  liquor 
that  drains  off  on  to  heat,  and  Avhen  it  boils,  skim  and  set  back.  Fry 
the  steak  as  above,  then  take  up  and  stir  tablespoon  flour  into  the 
fat  in  pan  until  dark  broAvn ; add  the  oyster  liquor,  boil  one  minute, 
season  with  salt  and  pepper,  put  the  steak  in,  coA^er  and  simmer  ten 
or  fffteen  minutes ; then  add  the  oysters  and  tablespoon  lemon  juice, 
boil  one  minute  and  serve  on  hot  dish  Avith  oysters  on  steak,  the 
gravy  poured  round,  and  a garnish  of  croutons.  Some  like  white 
onions,  sliced  and  fried  a golden  broAvn  in  deep,  hot  fat,  laid  over 
steak.  Broiled  steak  may  be  served  same.  For  Beefsteak  Smoth- 
ered in  Onions.,  slice  the  onions  thin  and  drop  in  cold  AA^ater — somp 


MEATS. 


479 


parboil  them ; put  steak  in  hot  pan  with  a little  suet ; skim  out  on- 
ions and  add  to  steak,  season  with  pepper  and  salt,  cover  tightly, 
and  put  over  the  fire:  When  the  juice  of  the  onions  has  dried  up, 
and  the  meat  has  browned  on  one  side,  remove  onions,  turn  steak, 
replace  onions  and  fry  till  done,  being  careful  not  to  burn.  Serve 
hot,  both  on  same  platter.  Another  way  of  preparing  is  to  boil  the 
onions  until  tender,  and  fry  the  steak  alone  as  directed  above ; when 
done,  take  out,  season  as  usual  and  place  where  it  will  keep  hot. 
Drain  the  onions  and  mash  them  in  the  frying-pan  with  the  steak 
gravy,  season  with  salt  and  pepper  and  stir  over  the  fire  until  hot  all 
through,  then  place  them  over  the  steak  and  serve.  Beefsteaks  are 
nice  to  first  stew  them  in  three  gills  water  and  two  tablespoons  vinegar, 
to  which  has  been  added  a bunch  sweet  herbs,  two  blades  mace,  an 
onion  stuck  with  cloves,  an  anchovy,  and  a lump  of  butter  mixed 
smooth  with  flour.  Stew  with  the  pan  covered,  until  the  steaks  are 
just  tender ; then  place  in  a frying-pan  with  enough  fresh  butter,  hot, 
to  cover,  fry  brown,  pour  ofi‘  fat,  and  pour  into  pan  gravy  in  which 
steaks  were  stewed ; when  gravy  is  thoroughly  heated,  place  steaks 
in  a hot  dish*  and  pour  sauce  over  them. 

Hamburg  Steak. — Cut  two  pounds  round  or  rump  steak  into 
small  pieces  and  pass  through  a chopping  machine,  or  have  butchei 
chop  very  fine;  or  the  meat  maybe  scraped  off  the  fiores  with  a 
heavy  tin  or  iron  spoon.  Pepper  and  salt  the  meat  to  taste,  mix  ir\ 
two  tablespoons  melted  butter,drippings  or  lard  (butter  is  preferable), 
form  into  steaks  and  fry  in  a little  hot  butter  or  drippings,  being 
careful  not  to  cook  too  much.  Any  kind  of  meat  can  be  used  for 
this  steak  if  one  has  a machine  to  pass  it  through.  A few  slices  of 
onion  may  be  put  into  the  hot  butter  and  fried  with  the  steak,  as 
they  remove  the  taste  of  the  fat,  and  yet  do  not  leave  their  own  fla- 
vor ; take  out  the  onion  before  serving.  For  a Hamburg  Roll.,  chop 
round  steak  fine,  season  well  and  shape  into  a roll ; put  in  a frying- 
pan  a tablespoou  or  more  of  butter  to  each 'pound  meat,  when  hot 
place  the  meat  in  it,  cover  and  cook  until  as  well  done  as  liked. 
Take  out  the  meat  and  make  a brown  gravy  by  stirring  into  the 
drippings  in  the  pan  a thickening  of  flour  and  water  and  serve  poured 
over  the  meat. 

Hidden  Steaks. — Have  two  slices  of  beef,  each  half  an  inch 
thick,  cut  from  round.  Take  two  or  more  porterhouse  steaks,  from 
one  and  a half  to  two  inches  thick  ; remove  bones  from  each,  taking 
care  not  to  separate  tenderloin  from  upper  part  of  steak.  Butter, 
salt  and  pepper  the  steaks  on  each  side  ; spread  over  one  slice  of  the 
round  half  a can  of  mushrooms ; place  porterhouse  steaks  on  the 
mushrooms,  then  distribute  the  rest  of  the  mushrooms  over  the 
steaks,  covering  them  with  the  other  slice  of  beef  from  the  round. 
Bring  the  edges  of  the  two  slices  together  and  sew.  Rub  vinegar 
and  salt  over  the  outside  of  each  slice,  which  will  harden  them  and 


480 


MEATS. 


not  only  prevent  their  juices  from  dropping  into  the  fire  when  being 
cooked,  but  force  them  into  the  enclosed  steaks.  Place  the  meat 
then  on  a double  wire  broiler  and  cook  for  from  ten  to  fifteen  min- 
utes over  a bed  of  hot  coals,  turning  the  broiler  every  minute  or  two. 
The  outside  of  the  slices  from  the  round  will  be  done  to  a crisp.  Be- 
fore serving,  draw  the  thread  binding  them  together,  and  lift  care- 
fully off  the  upper  slice,  placing  it  with  the  crisp  side  down  on  a 
platter.  Remove  the  steaks  to  a hot  dish  and  spread  over  them  all 
of  the  mushrooms.  Scrape  with  a spoon  the  inside  of  each  slice  of 
the  round,  obtaining  a quantity  of  rich  juice,  which  pour  over  the 
steaks.  If  a gravy  is  desired  turn  this  juice  into  a 'saucepan,  add  a 
portion  of  the  mushrooms,  a piece  of  butter  the  size  of  an  egg  and 
a gill  beef  stock  ; when  it  boils  pour  it  over  the  steak. 

Oyster  Steaks. — Cut  beefsteak  into  pieces  two  inches  square,  or 
about  the  size  of  large  oysters,  single-bread  them  and  fry  a nice  brown 
by  immersing  in  hot  lard  as  Croquettes.  Pork,  Veal  and  Mutton 
may  be  fried  same  way.  Or  they  may  be  dipped  in  a batter  and 
fried  as  above. 


Stuffed  Beefsteak. — This  can  be  prepared  from  a round  steak 
and  is  as  nice  for  dinner  as  a much  more  expensive  roast ; pound 
well,  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  bits  of  butter,  then  spread  with  a 
nice  dressing  made  of  one  egg,  bread-crumbs,  pepper,  sage  and  a 
little  cream  or  butter ; roll  up  and  tie  closely  with  twine  ; put  in  ket- 
tle with  quart  boiling  water,  and  a lump  of  butter  if  liked,  and  boil 
slowly  one  hour ; take  out  and  place  in  dripping-pan,  adding  water 
tn  which  it  was  boiled,  basting  frequently  until  a nice  brown,  and 
making  gravy  of  the  drippings ; or  put  it  at  once  into  the  dripping- 
pan,  omit  the  boiling  process,  skewer  a couple  slices  salt  pork  on 
top,  add  a very  little  water,  put  in  oven,  baste  frequently,  and  if  it 
bakes  too  rapidly  cover  with  a dripping-pan.  It  is  delicious  sliced 
cold.  This  is  known  also  as  Mock  Duck.  For  Beef  Olives  have 
two  pounds  nice  rump  steak  cut  rather  thin,  slightly  beat  to  make 
level,  cut  into  six  or  seven  pieces,  brush  over  witb  egg,  and  sprinkle 
with  herbs,  which  should  be  very  finely  minced ; season  with  pepper 
and  salt,  roll  up  the  pieces  tightly,  and  fasten  with 
small  skewers  or  wooden  toothpicks.  Put  a pint 
stock  in  a stewpan  that  will  exactly  hold  them,  for 
by  being  pressed  together  they  will  keep  their 
shape  better ; lay  in  the  rolls  of  meat,  cover  them  with  bacon,  cut  in 
thin  slices,  and  over  that  put  a piece  of  paper.  Stew  very  gently 
two  hours  ; the  slower  they  are  done  the  better.  Take  out,  remove 
skewers,  thicken  gravy  with  butter  and  flour,  and  flavor  with  any 
sauce  preferred.  Give  one  boil,  pour  over  the  meat  and  serve.  Or 
after  cutting  and  seasoning  the  steaks  spread  them  thinly  with  a 
nice  force-meat,  then  roll  up  tightly,  fasten  with  a skewer,  single- 
bread them  and  fry  a pale  brown  by  immersing  in  hot  fat.  Serve 
with  any  sauce  liked. 


Beef  Olives. 


MEATS. 


481 


Beefsteak  Pie. — Cut  three  pounds  rump  steak  into  pieces  about 
three  inches  long  and  two  wide,  allowing  a small  piece  of  fat  to  each 
piece  of  lean,  and  arrange  the  meat  in  layers  in  a pudding  dish.  Be- 
tween each  layer  sprinkle  a seasoning  of  salt,  pepper,  and  when 
liked,  a small  pinch  cayenne  or  some  chopped  parsley.  Fill  the 
dish  with  sufficient  meat  to  support  the  crust,  and  to  give  it  a nice 
raised  appearance  when  baked.  Pour  in  enough  water  to  half  fill 
the  dish,  and  border  it  with  paste  (see  pastry)  ; brush  it  over  with  a 
little  water,  and  put  on  the  cover ; slightly  press  in  edges  with  thumb, 
and  trim  off  close  to  dish.  Ornament  pie  with  leaves,  or  pieces  of 
paste  cut  in  any  shape  that  fancy  may  direct,  brush  it  over  with  the 
Roll  Glaze,  cut  a hole  in  top  of  crust,  and  bake  in  a hot  oven  for 
about  an  hour  and  a half.  Or  first  prepare  seasoning  of  three  parts 
salt  and  one  part  black  pepper,  Avith  just  a dash  of  ground  nutmeg, 
and  season  with  it  enough  thin  slices  of  nice  tender  steak  to  fill  the 
dish,  which  must  be  lined  with  paste ; sprinkle  slices  with  chopped 
]*arsley  and  roll  up,  passing  a small  wooden  skewer  or  wooden  tooth- 
pick through  each  to  hold  in  place.  When  dish  is  full  add  enough 
water  to  make  a good  gravy  and  lay  on  top  slices  of  hard-boiled  eggs, 
cover  'with  the  crust,  wash  over  with  beaten  eggs  and  bake  in  moder- 
ate oven.  Should  be  done  when  it  has  baked  twenty  minutes. 
For  another  nice  pie  take  slices  of  beef  cut  very  thin  and  a few 
thicker  pieces  out  of  a loin  of  pork.  Spread  slices  of  beef  with  pota- 
toes, chopped  onion  and  fine  herbs  ; roll  up  and  tie  with  thread.  Pack 
the  meat  into  dish  with  parsley  between  each  layer ; pour  a little 
graAW  over  the  whole,  season  liberally  and  bake  under  a light  crust. 
Beefsteak  pies  may  be  flavored  with  oysters,  mushrooms,  minced 
onions,  etc.,  and  the  crust  may  be  made  of  suet  instead  of  lard  or 
butter,  and  where  economy  is  necessary,  clarified  drippings  may  be 
used.  Cutting  the  meat  in  small  pieces  as  above  makes  it  more  ten- 
der and  more  easily  served  and  also  gives  more  gravy  than  when 
left  in  larger  pieces.  For  a Bea  Pie^  line  a good-sized  dish  with 
paste  made  Avith  fresh  beef  suet.  Cut  in  small  pieces  one  pound 
beef ; lay  it  on  bottom  of  dish ; slice  in  an  onion,  sprinkle  a handful 
of  flour  over  and  add  a little  pepper  and  salt  to  taste.  Cover  all 
AAuth  water,  fill  the  dish  Avith  potatoes  that  have  been  peeled  and  laid 
in  clean  cold  Avater ; coA'Cr  the  top  of  the  dish  Avith  a good  paste,  tie 
a cloth  tightly  round,  plunge  into  boiling  Avater,  and  boil  quickly 
two  hours.  A very  nourishing  dish  when  AA^ell  cooked.  This  is  of- 
ten made  of  corned  beef,  Avhen  the  dish  is  lined  with  any  plain  pastry 
or  rich  baking  poAvder  crust.  Put  in  first  a layer  of  sliced  onions,  then 
a layer  corned  beef  cut  in  slices,  then  sliced  potatoes,  a layer  of  pork, 
and  another  of  onions ; streAV  pepper  over  all,  cover  with  a crust  and 
tie  doAvn  tightly  Avith  a cloth  preAnously  dipped  in  boiling  water  and 
fioured.  Boil  two  hours,  and  serve  hot. 

Beefsteak  Pudding. — Chop  fine  a half  pound  nice  suet  and  mix 
with  it  a scant  pound  flour,  teaspoon  salt,  half  saltspoon  pepper  and 


482 


MEATS. 


enoiigli  cold  water  to  form  a dough  to  roll  as  for  biscuit ; roll  out  to 
three-fourths  of  an  inch  in  thickness  and  line  a buttered  two-quart 
bowl  with  it,  leaving  the  crust  hanging  over  the  edge  all  round.  Cut 
two  pounds  round  steak  into  inch  squares,  some  add  also  two  sheep’s 
kidneys  cut  in  squares,  and  place  in  the  crust  with  a dessertspoon 
each  Worcester  sauce  and  mushroom  catsup ; season  well  with  pep- 
per and  salt,  turn  in  a half  cup  cold  water  and  draw  the  crust  up 
over  the  meat,  wetting  the  edges  to  make  them  stick  together,  and 
tie  to  confine  the  juices  or  gravy  while  the  meat  is  cooking,  or  the 
dish  will  be  spoiled ; wet  a cloth  in  hot  water,  dust  over  with  flour, 
and  tie  the  pudding  in  it  by  placing  the  center  of  cloth  on  top  of 
dish  and  bringing  corners  underneath,  tie  them  tightly  with  cord. 
Have  ready  a large  pot  of  boiling  water  in  which  stand  the  pudding 
bowl  and  boil  steadily  three  hours.  To  serve,  remove  cloth,  turn 
the  pudding  out  on  a hot  platter  without  breaking  the  crust  and  send 
to  table  hot.  Or  it  may  be  served  in  the  bowl  enveloped  in  a nap- 
kin. A rich  gravy  will  come  from  the  meat,  a spoonful  or  tv^o  of 
which  will  be  served  on  each  plate  with  a slice  of  the  pudding.  Some 
make  paste  as  above,  roll  out  half  an  inch  thick  and  lay  on  it  slices 
of  steak  well  seasoned  with  pepper  and  salt,  roll  up,  tie  in  a cloth, 
and  boil  three  hours.  A few  oysters  and  a sliced  onion  improve  the 
dish  for  some. 

Mock  Quail. — Cut  tenderloin  into  nice-sized  pieces  and  boil  un- 
til cooked  through,  then  brown  in  a frying-pan  with  a little  butter 
and  serve  on  slices  of  toasted  bread  a little  larger  than  the  slices  of 
meat,  pouring  a rich  brown  gravy  made  in  pan  over  all. 

Toad-in- Hole. — Cut  a pound  round  or  rump  steak  into  dice  and 
make  this  batter  : Beat  an  egg  very  light,  stir  into  one  pint  milk 
with  a half  teaspoon  salt,  and  pour  gradually  over  one  cup  flour, 
beating  until  light  and  smooth ; butter  a two-quart  baking  dish  and 
put  in  the  meat,  season  well  with  butter,  pepper  and  salt  and  pour  in 
the  batter.  Bake  an  hour  in  a moderate  oven  and  serve  hot.  Mut- 
ton or  Lamb  may  be  used  instead  of  beef.  Or  mix  with  the  steak  a 
sheep’s  kidney  cut  into  pieces  of  same  size.  The  remains  of  cold 
beef  may  be  substituted  for  the  steak,  and  when  liked  the  smallest 
quantity  of  minced  onion  or  shallot  may  be  added. 

Boiled  Corned  Beef. — Soak  the  meat  overnight  if  very  salt,  but 
if  beef  is  young  and  properly  corned  this  is  not  necessary;  skewer 
into  nice  form  and  put  on  with  cold  water  enough  to  cover  well,  af- 
ter washing  off  the  salt.  Corned  beef  should  be  placed  on  a part  of 
the  stove  or  range  where  it  will  simmer,  not  boil,  uninterruptedly 
from  four  to  six  hours,  according  to  the  size  of 
the  piece.  When  done,  remove  skeAvers,pour  over 
it  a little  of  the  liquor  and  garnish  with  vegetables 
neatly  sliced  or  cut  into  balls  or  fancy  shapes. 

Boiled  Corned  Beef.  outer  slices  that  are  often  rough  and  unsightly 

may  be  cut  off  before  sending  the  meat  to  table  and  kept  for  potting. 


MEATS. 


483 


Put  away  the  liquor  for  soup.  Boiled  vegetables  and  sometimes 
suet  dumplings  accompany  this  dish  and  are  often  boiled  with  meat. 
Serve  with  Horse-radish  Gravy.  If  to  be  sliced  cold,  let  meat  re- 
main in  liquor  until  cold ; some  let  tough  beef  remain  in  liquor  until 
next  day  to  make  tender,  bringing  to  boiling  point  just  before  serv- 
ing. Simmer  a brisket  or  plate-piece  until  the  bones  are  easily  re- 
moved, fold  over, forming  a square  or  oblong  piece,  wrap  in  a towel, 
place  sufficient  weight  on  top  to  pressthe  parts  closely  togetlier,  and 
set  where  it  will  become  cold.  This  gives  a firm,  solid  piece  to  cut 
in  slices,  and  is  a delightful  relish.  Boil  liquor  down,  remove  fat, 
season  with  pepper  or  sweet  herbs,  and  save  it  to  pour  over  finely 
minced  scraps  and  pieces  of  beef;  press  them  firmly  into  a mold, 
pour  the  liquor  over  and  place  a close  cover  with  a weight  upon  it. 
When  turned  from  the  mold,  garnish  wdth  sprigs  of  parsley  or  cel- 
ery, and  serve  with  fancy  pickles  or  French  mustard.  Any  bottled 
sauce  is  nice  with  cold  beef,  or  make  Carrack  Sauce  by  slicing  two 
heads  garlic,  adding  one  quart  good  vinegar,  three  spoonfuls  mango 
pickle,  five  of  essence  of  anchovies  (or  fifteen  anchovies),  eight  of 
walnut  pickle,  five  of  mushroom  catsup,  and  five  of  soy.  Mix  all 
in  a bottle,  and  set  in  cupboard  by  the  kitchen  fire  or  in  some  dry, 
warm  place.  Shake  it  regularly  every  day  for  a month.  The  man- 
go pickle  may  be  omitted.  For  Sandioiches  slice  cold  beef  very 
ffiin.  For  Collared  Beef^  take  seven  pounds  corned  beef,  not  too  fat, 
from  thin  end  of  flank,  bone  it,  remove  all  gristle  and  the  coarse  skin 
of  the  inside  part,  sprinkle  thickly  with  a mixture  of  a large  hand- 
ful of  parsley,  a dessertspoon  sage  finely  minced,  half  teaspoon 
powdered  allspice,  and  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Roll' the  meat  up  in 
a cloth  as  tightly  as  possible  in  nice  round  form,  bind  firmly  with 
broad  tape  and  boil  gently  six  hours.  Take  up  and  put  under  a 
weight  without  undoing  it  and  let  remain  until  cold.  Very  nice  for 
breakfast,  luncheon  or  tea.  Some  use  ribs  of  beef  and  remove  bones 
before  rubbing  wdth  salt,  etc.,  and  bake  instead  of  boiling,  first  sea- 
soning with  ground  pepper,  mace,  cloves,  allspice  and  a clove  of  gar- 
lic, chopped  very  fine,  then  covering  well  with  parsley,  thyme  and 
sweet  marjoram.  Form  into  a roll  as  above,  omitting  the  cloth, 
simply  binding  wdth  tape  and  bake.  Put  under  weights  for  a day  or 
two  and  serve  cold. 

Corned  Beef  Stew. — Procure  a piece  of  brisket  of  corned  beef 
about  three  times  its  width  in  length,  weighing  about  six  pounds. 
Wash  in  cold  water,  season  with  pepper,  roll  and  tie  very  tightly  ; 
put  over  fire  in  pot  with  cold  water  to  cover  and  bring  slowly  to 
boiling  point ; then  pour  off  the  water  and  cover  again  with  fresh, 
add  a half  pint  vinegar,  an  onion  stuck  with  ten  cloves,  a small  red 
pepper,  blade  of  mace,  and  a stalk  of  celery  or  parsley  with  root  at- 
tached. Boil  gently  until  done,  allowin  g half  an  hour  for  each  pound 
meat.  When  done,  take  out  a pint  of  liquor,  and  if  too  salt  for  gravy 
add  water  and  a very  litrle  vinegar.  Brown  a tablespoon  each  but- 


4S4 


MEATS. 


ter  and  flour  in  saucepan,  add  the  pint  liquor,  season  to  taste  and 
serve  with  the  beef,  which  should  he  accompanied  with  boiled  beets, 
cabbage  or  turnips.  If  to  be  served  cold  let  cool  in  the  liquor.  Any 
cut  of  corned  beef  may  be  cooked  same.  Suet  dumplings  may  be 
added.  Or  cut  pieces  of  salt  beef  and  pork  into  dice,  putir.  stewpan 
with  six  whole  pepper-corns,  two  blades  mace,  a few  cloves,  teaspoon 
celery  seed,  and  bunch  of  dried  sweet  herbs  ; cover  with  v ater,  and 
stew  gently  for  an  hour,  then  add  diced  carrots,  turnips  and  parsnips, 
or  any  other  vegetables  at  hand,  with  two  sliced  onions,  and  some 
vinegar  to  flavor ; thicken  with  flour,  or  rice,  remove  the  herbs  and 
pour  in  dish  with  toasted  bread,  or  freshly  baked  biscud  broken 
small,  and  serve  hot.  A few  potatoes  should  also  be  cooked  with  it. 

Stuifed  Brisket  of  Beef. — Wash  a brisket  of  corned  beef  in  cold 
water,  cut  out  hone,  spread  a bread  and  onion  dressing  over  it,  roll 
it  up  and  tie  securely  ; then  roll  the  beef  in  a cloth, 
tie  the  ends  of  the  cloth,  and  again  a few  inches 
from  each  end.  Put  it  into  enough  boiling  water 
to  cover  and  boil  gently  four  hours.  Unroll  it,  stuffed  siet  of  Beef, 
take  off  strings,  wet  the  cloth  in  cold  water,  and  roll  it  again  around 
the  beef;  put  the  roil  between  two  platters,  set  a heavyweight  on  the 
upper  one,  and  press  the  meat  until  it  is  cold.  After  the  meat  is 
pressed  and  cold,  the  cloth  may  be  removed,  and  the  meat  sliced 
and  served. 

Frizzled'  Beef  with  Eggs. — Cut  a pound  smoked  dried  beef  in 
very  thin  slices.;  put  it  in  frying-pan  with  cold  water  to  cover  and 
when  it  begins  to  boil,  drain  off  water  and  put  in  two  tablespoons 
butter ; beat  six  eggs  smoothly  with  half  cup  cold  milk  and  add  to 
beef,  season  with  salt  and  pepper  and  stir  over  fire  until  the  eggs 
begin  to  thicken.  Serve  on  toast. 

Yankee  Dried  Beef. — Slice  very  thin,  put  in  frying-pan  with 
water  to  cover,  let  come  to  boiling  point,  pour  off,  and  add  pint  milk, 
lump  of  butter,  and  thickening  of  little  flour  and  milk,  stir  well,  and 
just  before  seiving  some  add  an  egg,  stirring  it  in  quickly  ; or,  chip 
very  fine,  freshen,  add  a lump  of  butter  and  six  or  eight  eggs,  stir 
well  and  serve  at  once.  Cold  boiled  or  baked  beef  maybe  sliced  and 
cooked  in  same  way.  Or,  after  the  freshening,  first  frizzle  it  in  but- 
ter, dredge  with  flour,  and  add  the  milk.  When  ends  or  thin  pieces 
of  dried  beef  become  too  dry  and  hard,  put  in  cold  water  and  boil 
very  slowly  six  or  eight  hours  ; slice  when  cold,  and  the  broth  is  nice 
for  soup ; or  soak  overnight  in  cold  water,  and  boil  three  or  four 
hours.  Many  think  all  dried  beef  is  improved  by  this  method. 

New  England  Boiled  Dinner. — Remove  bone  from  a compact 
cut  of  round  of  corned  beef  weighing  about  six  pounds,  and  tie  meat 
as  firmly  as  possible ; put  in  deep  pot,  cover  with  cold  water,  add  a 
teaspoon  salt  and  half  saltspoon  white  pepper ; let  boil  quickly, 


MEATS. 


485 


removing  all  scum ; when  no  more  scum  rises  put  in  the  following 
vegetables,  peeled  and  cut  in  slices  two  inches  thick  : two  carrots, 
four  beets,  four  white  turnips,  and  one  yellow  turnip,  six  small 
onions,  peeled  so  that  they  will  remain  unbroken,  and  a large  head 
of  celery  cut  in  two-inch  lengths.  Place  the  pot  where  its  contents 
will  simmer  slowly  two  hours.  A glass  of  any  table  sauce  preferred 
may  be  added  before  the  dish  is  finished.  To  serve  it,  put  meat  in 
middle  of  platter,  arrange  vegetables  around  it,  and  pour  a little  of 
the  gravy  over.  More  of  the  gravy  should  be  served  in  a small  boat, 
with  a dish  of  boiled  potatoes.  The  united  flavor  of  the  meat  and 
vegetables  characterizes  the  dish.  The  beets  may  be  boiled  separ- 
ately, keeping  them  whole,  if  preferred. 

Potato  Pot. — Slice  a quarter  pound  bacon,  cut  two  pounds 
freshened  corned  beef  in  small  pieces  and  put  over  the  fire  in  frying- 
pan  to  brown  with  two  sliced  onions.  Peel  and  quarter  a dozen 
potatoes  and  when  meat  and  onions  are  brown  put  them  in  deep 
baking  dish,  in  layers  with  the  potatoes.  Make  a pint  gravy  by 
adding  boiling  water  and  seasonings  to  the  drippings  in  frying-pan, 
thicken  with  two  teaspoons  flour  dissolved  in  a little  cold  water ; 
pour  the  gravy  over  the  meat  and  potatoes,  and  put  them  in  quick 
oven  to  bake.  They  will  be  done  in  about  an  hour,  and  should  be 
served  hot ; if  sent  to  table  in  the  same  dish  in  which  it  is  baked, 
a clean  dish  must  be  placed  under  it. 


Baked  Heart. — Take  the  heart  of  a beef,  sheep  or  veal,  wash 
thoroughly,  and  some  seal?:  in  warm  water  or  vinegar  and  water  from 
two  to  four  hours  to  remove  all  blood ; make  the  two  cells  into  one 
by  cutting  through  the  partition  with  a long,  sharp  knife,  being 
careful  not  to  cut  through  to  the  outside  ; fill  the  cavity  with  a stuffing 
of  bread-crumbs,  or  veal  or  other  highly  seasoned  force-meat ; cover 
with  greased  paper  or  cloth  to  secure  stuffing,  and  bake  in  a deep 
pan  with  a few  slices  salt  pork  and  plenty  of  wnter,  in  a moderate 
oven  for  two  hours  or  longer,  basting  and  turning  often,  as  the  upper 
part  particularly  is  apt  to  get  dry ; dredge  with  flour  and  baste  as  in 
Roasted  Meats  the  last  half  hour.  MTiile  this  is  roasting,  put  the 
valves  of  the  heart,  or  ^‘deaf  ears,”  which  must  be  cut  off  after  wash- 
ing, into  a saucepan  with  a pint  of  cold  water  and  a sliced  onion. 
Let  simmer  slowly  one  hour , melt  in  saucepan  tablespoon  butter, 
add  a tablespoon  flour,  then  the  strained  liquor  from  valves,  and 

serve  as  gravy.  Garnish  v/ith  baked  onions 
currant  jell}".  Some  parboil  the 
heart  before  stuffing,  which  makes  it  more 
tender,  and  it  may  be  simply  stuffed  with 
sage  and  onion.  If  to  be  served  cold,  soak 
overnight  in  weak  brine  and  boil  three  hours  be- 
fore stuffing,  then  put  in  oven  twenty  minutes,  or  just  long  enough 
to  cook  the  dressing.  Serve  cold,  cut  in  thin  slices.  Sheep’s  and 


486 


MEATS. 


lambs’  hearts  are  often  baked  with  a slice  of  fat  bacon  tied  round 
each.  Make  a gravy  in  pan  and  serve  poured  round  them.  Calf’s 
heart,  baked  as  above,  is  nice  served  with  the  lights  and  liver ; boil 
the  lights  till  tender  then  cut  in  small  pieces,  add  enough  of  the 
water  they  were  boiled  in  for  gravy  and  table- 
spoon lemon  juice,  a little  nutmeg,  pepper  and 
salt,  and  tablespoon  butter  mixed  with  flour  to 
thicken ; let  boil  and  serve  with  the  liver,  cut  in 
pieces  an  inch  square  and  broiled,  as  a garnish  for  the  heart.  Cold 
boiled  heart  can  be  sliced  thin,  then  fried  or  broiled. 

Fried  Heart. — Soak  the  heart  in  warm  water  an  hour,  then  cut 
into  slices  half  an  inch  thick,  dip  in  flour,  then  in  egg,  then  in  bread- 
crumbs seasoned  with  pepper  and  salt  and  fry  in  a small  quantity 
of  butter  or  American  cooking  oil.  If  all  cannot  be  fried  at  once  be 
sure  to  place  the  slices  fried  first  where  they  will  keep  hot  until  all 
are  done.  Pour  off  part  of  the  fat  and  make  a gravy  by  stirring  in 
a teaspoon  flour  and  adding  a gill  water,  pepper  and  salt,  four  table- 
spoons vinegar  from  piccalilli  and  a little  of  the  pickle  finely  chopped , 
boil  all  one  minute,  pour  over  the  fried  heart  and  serve  very  hot.  It 
is  also  very  good  served  with  broiled  bacon  with  ^ plain  gravy,  gar- 
nished with  slices  of  lemon.  Or  the  slices  of  heart  may  be  plainly 
fried  in  a little  hot  drippings  or  butter  and  served  with  each  slice 
covered  with  a slice  of  fried  bacon.  Thicken  two  or  three  table- 
spoons water  with  a little  flour  and  boil  in  pan  with  drippings  heart 
was  fried  in,  season  with  pepper  and  salt,  add  teaspoon  red  currant 
jelly  and  serve  poured  round  the  heart,  all  as  hot  as  possible. 

Piclded  Heart. — Wash  the  heart  well  and  put  on  to  boil  with 
a tablespoon  salt  in  water  to  cover.  Cook  until  tender,  take  out  and 
cool,  then  cut  into  slices.  Boil  two-thirds  cup  vinegar  with  a half 
cup  water,  seasoned  with  a tablespoon  cinnamon  and  half  tablespoon 
pepper,  ten  minutes  and  pour  over  the  sliced  heart.  Will  be  nicely 
pickled  and  ready  for  use  in  two  or  three  hours.  Pickle  may  be 
seasoned  with  any  spices  liked. 

Bahed  Liver. — Any  liver  may  be  baked,  though  calf’s  liver  is  a 
much  more  delicate  dish  than  any  other.  To  bake  or  roast  plainly, 
first  soak  in  clear  water,  though  some  use  salted  water  to  extract  the 
blood,  and  some  skin,  as  this  gives  a more  delicate  flavor.  Then 
dry  in  a cloth,  rub  over  well  with  salt  and  melted  butter  or  drip- 
pings and  bake  in  a pan  on  a trivet,  as  Roast  Beef,  basting  often  with 
butter  or  drippings.  When  done  sprinkle  with  pepper  and  serve 
with  a piquant  sauce,  flavored  with  chopped  capers  or  gherkins, 
poured  over.  Larded  Liver  is  a delicious  dish.  Soak  as  above  and 
lard  a whole  calf’s  liver,  about  three  pounds,  as  directed  in  Larding 
Meats ; place  in  a pan  on  bed  of  vegetables  prepared  as  for  Roast 
Beef  and  bake  an  hour  and  a half,  basting  often.  Some  put  a but- 


MEATS. 


487 


tered  paper  over  it  until  nearly  done,  then  remove  to  let  the  liver 
and  larding  brown.  To  make  the  gravy,  pour  away  nearly  all  the 
drippings  from  pan,  leaving  about  two  tablespoons ; rub  through 
sieve  with  potato  masher  and  put  in  saucepan  with  tablespoon  flour, 
stir  until  brown  and  add  slowly  a pint  water.  Or  lard  the  liver  and 
sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper  and  a teaspoon  mixed  spices,  putting 
another  teaspoon  spices  in  pan  with  half  pint  water.  Baste  with 
butter  until  gravy  in  pan  is  rich  enough  to  baste  with  that,  dredging 
with  flour  after  each  basting.  Serve  with  gravy  from  pan  poured 
over,  flavored  with  lemon  juice,  first  skimming  otf  all  fat  from  top. 
After  larding,  the  liver  is  sometimes  put  in  a pickle  of  vinegar  with 
spices  and  herbs  and  left  twenty-four  hours.  Then  bake  as  above, 
using  some  of  the  vinegar  from  pickle  in  pan  instead  of  water.  For 
Boiled  Larded  Liver ^ prepare  as  above,  season  with  salt  and  pepper, 
tie  a cord  around  the  liver  to  keep  in  shape,  put  in  kettle  with  quart 
cold  water,  quarter  pound  bacon,  onion  chopped  fine,  and  teaspoon 
sweet  marjoram;  simmer  slowly  for  two  hours,  pour  off  gravy  into 
gravy-dish,  and  brown  liver  in  kettle.  Serve  with  the  gravy.  For 
StuiLed  Liver ^ soak  as  above,  then  make  one  or  more  incisions  and 
fill  with  any  stuffing  liked,  or  a force-meat  made  of  part  of  the  liver 
parboiled  and  chopped  fine  with  fat  bacon,  bread-crumbs,  powdered 
sweet  herbs,  spices  and  pepper  and  salt ; roll  the  liver,  bind  pieces 
of  fat  pork  or  bacon  over,  or  lard  it,  and  bake  as  above.  Serve  hot 
for  dinner  with  gravy  from  pan,  or  sliced  cold  for  luncheon  or  tea. 

Broiled  Liver. — -Cut  the  liver  in  thin  slices,  pour  boiling  hot 
water  over  and  immediately  drain  it  ofi* ; this  seals  the  outside,  takes 
away  the  unpleasant  flavot,  and  makes  it  much  more  palatable  ; then 
skin,  as  this  also  gives  a strong  flavor,  season  with  pepper  and  salt, 
dip  in  melted  butter  or  drippings  and  broil  on  buttered  gridiron  or 
broiler,  as  directed  in  Broiled  Meats.  Some  dip  also  in  flour  before 
broiling.  Dish  on  a hot  platter,  pour  melted  butter  over  and  sprinkle 
with  chopped  parsley.  Calf’s  liver  is  very  nice  broiled,  though  any 
liver  may  be  thus  cooked.  Slices  of  broiled  bacon  may  be  seryed 
with  it. 

Ourried  Liver. — Cut  the  liver  in  small,  thin  pieces,  and  for  every 
pound  take  four  tablespoons  butter,  two  slices  of  onion,  two  table- 
spoons flour,  speck  of  cayenne,  salt,  pepper  and  teaspoon  curry 
powder.  Heat  butter  in  frying-pan  and  cook  the  liver  in  it  slowly 
five  minutes,  then  add  flour  and  other  ingredients ; cook  two  min- 
utes, stirring  all  well,  add  a cup  stock,  boil  up  and  serve. 

Deviled  Liver. — Chop  three  pounds  liver  with  a quarter  pound 
salt  pork  and  mix  with  a half  pint  bread-crumbs,  three  tablespoons 
salt,  teaspoon  pepper,  half  teaspoon  each  cayenne,  mace  and  cloves. 
Put  in  covered  mold  and  set  in  saucepan  cold  water ; bring  to  a boil 
and  boil  two  hours.  Take  out  the  mold,  uncover  and  place  in  oven 


488 


MEATS. 


to  dry  off,  then  set  away  to  get  cold.  To  serve,  turn  out  of  mold  and 
slice  as  wanted  at  table. 

Fried  Liver. — Prepare  as  directed  in  Broiled  Liver,  and  have 
ready  in  skillet  on  stove  some  hot  lard  or  beef  drippings,  or  better, 
half  and  half;  roll  the  liver  in  flour  (Graham  is  nice),  cracker  or 
bread-crumbs,  nicely  seasoned  with  pepper  and  salt,  put  in  skillet, 
placing  the  tin  cover  on,  fry  slowly  until  both  sides  are  dark-browm, 
when  the  liver  will  be  thoroughly  cooked.  The  time  required  is 
about  a quarter  of  an  hour.  Make  a gravy  by  stirring  into  the  drip- 
pings a tablespoon  flour  and  adding  a pint  milk.  Boil  up,  season 
and  serve  poured  over  the  liver.  Some  always  single-bread  liver. 
Or  first  throw  into  the  hot  drippings  a half  onion  minced  fine,  if  the 
flavor  is  liked,  and  one  or  two  sprigs  parsley,  chopped.  Turn  the 
liver  several  times  that  it  may  absorb  the  flavor.  When  done  put 
where  it  will  keep  hot  and  make  a sauce  in  another  pan  by  stirring 
a teaspoon  flour  into  tablespoon  hot  butter  until  brown,  add  cup 
boiling  water,  stirring  well,  and  pepper,  salt,  tablespoon  vinegar  and 
heaping  tablespoon  capers.  Drain  the  slices  of  liver  from  fat  and  put 
into  sauce  until  ready  to  serve,  when  arrange  neatly  on  dish  and  turn 
the  sauce  over.  For  Royal  Fried  Liver,  cut  two-thirds  pound 
calf’s  liver  into  slices,  and  fry  half  in  butter  ; then  pound  in  a mor- 
tar, with  a few  capers,  a few  gherkins,  allspice,  and  sugar,  press 
through  a sieve,  and  add  juice  of  a lemon,  and  a little  pepper,  salt, 
and  vinegar.  Put  in  hot  water  or  near  the  fire,  but  not  on  it,  to  keep 
hot.  Flour  the  remaining  slices  and  fry  in  fresh  butter,  place  on  a 
plate,  and  pour  over  them  the  first  part,  reduced  to  a thick  sauce. 
Will  be  found  delicious.  Liver  Rolls  may  be  served  with  the  above 
sauce.  Fried  Liver  and  Bacon  is  a dish  common  at  most  tables. 
Fry  in  a pan  slices  of  bacon  and  keep  hot  while  frying  thin  slices  of 
liver,  prepared  as  in  Broiled  Liver,  in  same  fat.  When  done  serve 
liver  and  bacon  on  same  dish,  garnished  with  slices  of  lemon  or 
force-meat  balls.  Make  a gravy  by  dredging  a little  flour  in  pan  af- 
ter pouring  off  some  of  the  fat,  adding  a fourth  pint  broth,  salt,  pep- 
per, tablespoon  mushroom  catsup  and  one  of  finely  chopped  gher- 
kins or  pickled  walnuts  if  liked.  Boil  and  pour  round  the  liver  in 
dish.  Or  serve  with  tomato  sauce.  Liver  is  apt  to  be  dry  and  hard 
unless  first  dropped  into  boiling  water,  or  let  stand  ten  minutes  or 
so  in  warm  water.  A good  way  is  to  steep  it  in  vinegar  and  water 
half  an  hour,  then  cut  into  thin  slices,  skin,  roll  in  flour,  fry  very 
crisp,  and  serve  with  fried  onions.  Some  cut  bacon  and  liver  into 
small  squares,  place  on  skewers  alternately,  fry  by  immersing  in 
hot  fat,  or  in  dripping  pan  in  oven,  turning  two  or  three  times, 
and  serve  on  moist  buttered  toast.  Sheep’s  liver  should  be  par- 
boiled before  frying.  For  Minced  Liver ^ cut  in  pieces  and  fry  with 
slices  of  pork  ; then  cut  both  into  dice,  nearly  cover  with  water,  add 
a little  lemon-juice  and  pepper,  thicken  the  gravy  with  bread-crumbs 
or  browned  flour,  and  serve. 


MEATS. 


489 


Steioed  Liver. — Scald  and  skin  the  liver,  cut  into  slices  and 
fry  till  both  sides  are  brown,  then  pour  on  boiling  water,  or  canned 
tomatoes,  also  boiling,  to  cover,  and  stew  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes, 
keeping  closel}^  covered.  Serve  hot,  with  macaroni  if  liked.  ^ If 
rolled  in  flour  before  frying  there  will  be  a nice  gravy  for  stewing. 
Or  parboil,  then  cut  into  small  pieces,  dust  over  with  flour,  and 
stew  in  as  little  water  as  possible ; season  with  butter,  pepper 
and  salt,  and  a little  chopped  onion  if  liked.  Just  before  serving 
thicken  the  gravy  with  flour  and  serve  hot.  To  stew  calf’s  liver, 
cut  in  pieces,  lard  nicely,  and  spread  chopped  parsley,  pepper  and 
salt  over  them  ; put  a small  piece  of  butter  well  mixed  with  flour  in 
the  bottom  of  a stewpan,  lay  in  the  liver,  and  let  it  cook  gently  in 
its  own  juice  until  done. 

Liver  Balls. — Any  liver  may  be  used,  but  chicken  livers  are 
preferred.  Chop  very  fine,  adding  parsley,  onion,  and  lemon  juice 
until  all  forms  a good  sauce.  Beat  a cup  butter  to  a cream,  add  six 
whole  eggs,  one  at  time,  and  stir  well,  adding  little  salt.  If  the  mix- 
ture gets  too  cold  and  the  butter  separates,  beat  it  near  the  fire. 
Then  mix  in  the  liver  and  thicken  with  sifted  bread-crumbs.  Have 
ready  a kettle  with  either  boiling  water  or  soup — the  latter  is  better — 
take  the  liver  mixture  by  the  spoonful,  taking  care  to  dip  the  spoon 
in  hot  water  each  time,  drop  in  the  hot  liquid  and  boil.  These  balls 
are  for  soup,  and  Meat  Balls  from  the  same  recipe  are  very'good. 

Liver  Bolls. — Slice  the  liver,  let  stand  in  boiling  water  five  min- 
utes or  so,  remove  the  skin  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Put  a 
thin  piece  of  fat,  salt  pork  or  bacon  on  each  slice  and  roll  up,  fasten- 
ing with  a string  or  pinning  with  toothpicks.  Fry  until  nicely 
browned  in  hot  drippings  or  butter,  then  stir  in  a tablespoon  flour 
and  when  this  has  browned  cover  with  water,  add  more  seasoning 
if  ne(3essary  and  cook  half  an  hour.  May  be  served  as  a regular 
meat  course  at  dinner.  A slice  of  truffle  may  be  rolled  with  the 
bacon.  Or,  cut  two  sheep’s  livers  in  slices  half  an  inch  thick  ; season 
with  salt  and  pepper,  spread  over  each  a layer  of  sausage  meat  as 
thick  as  the  liver,  season  that,  roll  each  slice  up,  and  tie  in  place 
with  a string,  put  in  baking  pan  on  a bed  of  vegetables  as  in  Roast 
Beef,  put  over  each  roll  a tablespoon  of  brown  gravy,  and  bake  in 
moderate  oven  about  forty  minutes  or  until  thoroughly  cooked ; lay 
them  on  a hot  platter,  add  a gill  stock  or  water  to  the  pan,  stir  the 
vegetables  about  in  it,  and  strain  over  the  liver.  Serve  very  hot. 

Liver  Pudding. — Chop  three  pounds  raw  liver  and  a fourth 
pound  fat  salt  pork  together,  add  half  pint  bread-crumbs,  three  tea- 
spoons salt,  one  of  black  pepper,  half  teaspoon  each  mace  and  cay- 
enne, a pinch  of  cloves,  and  put  in  covered  mold  or  tin  pail ; set  in 
kettle  of  cold  water,  having  water  reach  half  the  height  of  mold, 
cover  the  kettle,  and  cook,  after  it  begins  to  boil,  two  hours.  Take 


490 


MEATS. 


out  mold,  uncover  and  set  in  open  oven  to  let  steam  pass  off.  Serve 
cold, 

Blanquette  of  Calfs  Liver. — Wash  two  pounds  of  calf’s  liver, 
put  it  into  a stewpan  with  two  quarts  of  boiling  water,  and  simmer 
three  hours.  Take  up  and  cool,  then  cut  it  'nto  little  cubes,  and 
season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Put  three  tablespoons  pepper  in  fry- 
ing-pan with  one  large  slice  of  onion,  and  cook  slowly  three  minutes ; 
then  add  three  tablespoons  flour,  and  stir  until  mixture  is  smooth 
and  frothy,  but  not  brown.  Draw  the  pan  back,  and  gradually  add 
a pint  white  stock  ; then  remove  the  onion,  and,  drawing  the  pan  to 
hot  part  of  stove,  stir  until  it  boils.  Season  to  taste  with  salt  and 
pepper.  Put  the  liver  in  pan,  and  cook  eight  minutes,  add  a half 
cup  milk,  and  when  the  blanquette  boils  up,  remove  from  fire,  add 
tablespoon  lemon  juice  and  serve  without  delay. 

Mock  Terrapin. — Season  half  a calf’s  liver  with  salt  anq  fry 
brown  in  butter,  cut  in  small  bits,  dredge  well  with  flour,  add  naif 
pint  water,  teaspoon  each  mixed  mustard  and  lemonjuice,  half  salt- 
spoon  cayenne,  two  hard-boiled  eggs,  chopped  fine,  and  two  table- 
spoons butter.  Boil  a minute  or  two  and  serve.  Cold  veal  may  be 
used  instead  of  liver. 

Broiled  Kidneys. — Chop  fine  one  teaspoon  each  onions,  parsley 
and  any  green  herb  in  season ; add  one  level  teaspoon  salt,  half 
saltspoon  pepper,  pinch  of  cayenne  and  tablespoon  butter ; mix  on 
a plate  and  set  where  it  will  get  hot.  Wash  the  kidneys  in  cold 
salted  water,  split  and  take  out  membrane  and  white  fat,  lay  in  hot 
melted  butter  a moment,  then  broil  on  hot  buttered  gridiron  or 
broiler,  then  roll  them  over  and  over  in  the  hot  prepared  seasonings. 
Serve  as  quickly  as  possible  garnished  with  sprigs  of  parsley  or 
slices  of  lemon.  Or  before  broiling  dip  the  kidneys  into  a mksture 
of  tablespoon  each  oil  or  melted  butter  and  vinegar,  saltspoon  salt, 
pinch  of  pepper  and  teaspoon  mustard.  Slices  of  Veal  Kidneys 
and  Bacon  are  sometimes  broiled  on  skewers,  placed  alternately,  and 
served  on  the  skewers.  Broiled  Sheep's  Kidneys  are  done  same ; 
or,  cut  open  on  the  back  without  entirely  separating  them,  run  them 
on  a skewer  to  keep  them  flat,  dredge  with  pepper  and  salt,  rub 
lightly  with  butter  or  oil  and  broil  three  minutes  on  each  side  over 
hot  lire,  laying  the  flat  sides  first  on  gridiron  to  keep  the  gravy  in. 
Some  slice  them  through  the  fat  before  broiling,  leaving  just  enough 
fat  on  for  a border  round  the  kidney.  Serve  very  hot  with  a bit  of 
butter,  pepper  salt  and  a little  lemon  juice  on  each,  or  with  drawn 
butter  sauce  poured  over,  or  on  slices  oi  buttered  toast  cut  in  fancy 
shapes,  or  thin  slices  of  broiled  potatoes,  with  a bit  of  butter  on  each. 
Some  think  sheep’s  kidneys  better  than  calves’  for  broiling.  ^ Broiled 
Sheep'  Heart  is  cooked  the  same.  Or  place  either  flat  side  up  in 
baking  dish  in  oven  and  when  done  serve  dressed  as  above  in  dish  in 


MEATS. 


491 


which  they  were  baked.  Kidneys  must  always  he  cooked  very  quick- 
ly or  they  will  be  dry  and  hard.  Some  skin  kidneys  before  cooking. 

Fried  Kidneys. — Cut  a beef  kidney  into  thin  slices,  removing 
all  fat,  and  soak  an  hour  or  two  in  warm  water,  changing  the  water 
two  or  three  times  ; dry  in  a clean  cloth  and  fry  in  clarified  butter 
or  drippings  till  a nice  brown,  rolling  first  in  flour  if  preferred. 
Season  well  with  salt  and  pepper  and  serve  around  a dish  with  gravy 
in  the  center ; just  before  dishing  add  a little  lemon  juice  and  sugar  to 
the  gravy.  Some  sprinkle  the  kidney  slices  with  minced  parsley 
and  onion  and  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper  before  frying.  If  the 
onion  flavor  is  not  liked  use  a small  quantity  of  savory  herbs. 
Flavor  the  gravy  with  tablespoon  mushroom  catsup  and  add  a 
little  lemon  juice.  Pour  over  the  kidney  and  garnish  with  border  of 
croutons.  Mutton  Kidneys  may  be  done  same. 

Stewed  Kidneys.— li  wanted  for  breakfast,  boil  kidneys  the 
night  before  till  very  tender,  turn  into  a dish  with  the  gravy  and 
cover.  In  the  morning,  boil  for  a few  moments,  thicken  with  flour 
and  water,  add  part  of  an  onion  chopped  very  fine,  pepper,  salt,  and 
a lump  of  butter,  and  pour  over  toasted  bread  well  buttered.  Or 
split  the  kidneys  and  slice  them  thin  on  a plate ; dust  with  flour, 
pepper  and  salt ; brown  some  flour  in  butter  in  a stewpan,  mix 
smooth  with  a little  water,  put  in  the  sliced  kidneys  and  let  them 
simmer,  but  not  boil,  until  done.  Butter  slices  of  toast  and  pour 
the  stew^ed  kidneys  over,  gravy,  and  all.  Or  put  a small  onion,  or 
two  heaping  tablespoons  chopped  onion,  in  frying  pan  with  one 
heaping  tablespoon  butter  and  set  over  fire  where  butter  will  simply 
melt.  Cut  kidneys  into  pieces  one-half  inch  square,  put  in  pan  and 
fry  very  quickly  about  five  minutes,  add  heaping  tablespoon  flour 
and  stir  till  flour  browns,  then  pour  in  a pint  boiling  water  and  half 
a cup  tomato  catsup,  or  two  tablespoons  any  good  table  sauce,  add 
a seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper,  stir  until  all  are  smoothly  blended,  let 
them  cook  ten  minutes,  and  serve  the  dish  at  once,  garnished  with 
croutons.  If  the  fire  is  hot  the  kidney  ought  to  be  cooked  in  twenty 
minutes  ; it  is  not' necessary  to  parboil  kidney,  or  to  cook  it  for  a long 
time,  and  the  more  quickly  it  is  cooked  the  more  tender  it  will  be  ; 
the  kidney  should  be  quite  brown  before  the  flour  is  put  with  it,  then 
the  gravy  will  be  brown. 

Kidney  Ragout. — Take  two  beef  kidneys,  nicely  washed  and 
well  salted ; cut  into  bits  of  half  an  inch  each,  dredge  or  roll  in  flour, 
then  drop  in  hot  lard  and  cook  until  brown.  Scald  two  quarts 
tomatoes  and  stew  in  their  own  liquor  half  an  hour.  When  kidneys 
are  v/ell  browned  put  them  in  stewpan  with  tomatoes,  add  an  onion 
and  a half,  finely  chopped,  cayenne  pepper  to  taste,  and  a little 
parsley.  Simmer  two  hours  over  slow  fire  ; should  the  stew  be  too 
thick  a cup  hot  water  may  be  added.  Serve  hot,  with  a dish  of 


492 


MEATS. 


boiled  rice.  In  winter  canned  tomatoes  may  be  used.  A delicious 
dish  is  made  by  substituting  mushrooms  for  the  tomatoes,  and  pre- 
paring in  same  way,  except  that  the  mushrooms  are  added  to  the  kid- 
ne^^s  without  being  first  stewed,  and  the  ragout  requires  simmering 
another  hour. 

Broiled  Ox-tails. — Joint  and  cut  two  tails  into  convenient- 
sized pieces  and  put  in  a saucepan  with  a pint  and  a half  stock,  or 
boiling  water,  with  seasoning  of  salt  and  cayenne,  and  if  liked' a. 
bunch  savory  herbs.  Simmer  gently  about  two  and  one-half  hours 
then  take  out,  drain  and  let  them  cool.  Dip  into  beaten  egg  and 
bread-crumbs  and  broil  or  fry  in  hot  fat  until  a rich  brown  on  both 
sides  ; or  they  may  be  brovrned  in  buttered  pan  in  quick  oven.  Serve 
with  a rich  gravy  made  from  liquor  in  which  they  were  stewed,  or 
any  sauce  preferred. 

Steioed  Ox-tails. — Cut  two  ox-tails  into  pieces  about  four 
inches  long;  cut  a large  onion,. half  carrot,  three  slices  turnip  and 
two  stalks  celery  in  small  pieces  and  fry  in  three  tablespoons  hot 
butter  until  beginning  to  brown,  then  stir  in  two  tablespoons  flour ; 
cook  two  or  three  minutes,  put  in  the  tails,  season  with  salt  and 
pepper,  add  pint  and  a half  stock  or  v/ater  and  simmer  gently  about 
three  hours.  Serve  hot  with  the  gravy  strained  over.  Or  more  of 
the  vegetables  may  be  used,  with  addition  of  potatoes,  putting  tur- 
nips and  carrots  in  after  meat  has  cooked  an  hour,  and  potatoes 
twenty  minutes  before  done.  The  onion  may  be  chopped  and  fried 
first  as  above.  Serve  with  vegetables  heaped  in  center  of  dish  with 
tails  round  them  and  the  gravy  poured  over  all.  Or  divide  two 
ox-tails  at  the  joints,  wash  and  put  in  stewpan  with  water  to  cover 
and  set  over  the  fire.  When  water  boils,  skim  and  add  an  onion 
cut  into  rings,  three  cloves,  blade  of  mace,  quarter  teaspoon  each 
whole  black  pepper  and  allspice,  half  teaspoon  salt  and  bunch  savory 
herbs.  Cover  closely  and  simmer  gently  until  tails  are  tender,  about 
two  and  a half  hours.  Take  them  out,  add  thickening  of  butter  and 
flour  and  boil  fifteen  minutes.  Strain  through  sieve  into  saucepan, 
put  in  tails,  add  tablespoon  each  lemon  juice  and  catsup,  boil  up 
once  and  serve.  Garnish  with  croutons  or  bits  of  toasted  bread. 

Beef  Palates.— the  palates  in  water  several  hours,  till 
they  will  peel ; then  cut  into  slices,  or  leave  them  whole,  as  preferred, 
and  stew  in  a rich  gravy  till  quite  tender.  Before  serving,  season 
with  cayenne,  salt  and  catsup.  If  the  gravy  is  wanted  thick,  add 
butter  and  flour  and  boil  up.  If  to  be  served  white,  boil  the  palates 
in  milk  till  tender  and  add  cream,  butter,  flour  and  a little  pounded 
mace,  stev/  a few  moments  and  serve. 

Baked  To7igue.—V oxhoil  a fresh  tongue  in  water  until  done  enough 
to  peel.  Then  make  a sauce  by  stewing  together  about  twenty  minutes 
a dozen  ripe  tomatoes  and  a large  onion, seasoned  with  pepper  and  salt. 


MEATS. 


493 


Put  the  tongue  in  baking  pan,  pour  the  sauce  over  and  bake  a nice 
brown.  For  Baked  Spiced  Tongue^  wash  a spiced  tongue  (for  which 
see  recipes  in  Cutting  and  Curing  Meats)  put  it  in  small  pan  just  large 
enough  to  hold  it,  place  pieces  of  butter  on  it,  and  cover  with  a com- 
mon crust.  Bake  in  slow  oven  until  so  tender  that  a straw  will 
penetrate  it ; take  oF  skin,  fasten  it  down  to  a board  by  running  a 
fork  through  the  root  and  another  through  the  tip,  at  the  same  time 
straightening  and  putting  it  into  shape.  When  cold,  glaze  it,  put  p. 
paper  ruche  round  the  root,  which  is  generally  very  unsightly,  anc. 
garnish  with  tufts  of  parsley.  A boiled  tongue  can  be  trussed  in 
same  way.  The  tongues  of  beef,  veal,  sheep  or  lamb  can  all  be  cooked 
in  same  manner,  as  above,  or  as  directed  in  any  of  the  recipes  that 
follow,  the  three  latter  being,  of  course,  the  more  delicate. 

Boiled  Tongue. — Wash  clean,  put  in  pot  with  water  to  cover, 
a pint  salt,  and  a small  pod  of  red  pepper  seasons  it  nicely ; if  the 
water  boils  away,  add  more  so  as  to  keep  the  tongue  nearly  covered 
until  done ; boil  until  it  can  be  pierced  easily  with  a fork,  take  out, 
and  if  needed  for  present  use,  trim  off  the  fleshy  bits  near  the  roots, 
take  off  skin  and  set  away  to  cool ; if  to  be  kept  somie  days,  do  not 
peel  until  wanted  for  table,  and  it  will  be  much  more  juicy  if  left 
till  cool  in  the  water  in  which  it  was  boiled.  A nice  flavor  is  given 
the  tongue  by  boiling  with  it  a bunch  sweet  herbs,  dozen  cloves,  blade 
of  mace,  and  a red  pepper  or  teaspoon  pepper-corns,  and  some  add 
a little  vinegar.  The  same  amount  of  salt  will  do  for  three  tongues 
if  the  pot  is  large  enough  to  hold  them,  always  remembering  to  keep 
sufficient  water  in  the  kettle  to  cover  all  while  boiling.  Soak  salt 
tongue  overnight,  put  on  in  cold  water  and  cook  in  same  way,  omit- 
ting the  salt.  Or,  after  peeling,  place  the  tongue  in  saucepan  with 
one  cup  water,  half  cuy)  vinegar,  four  tablespoons  sugar,  and  cook 
till  liquor  is  evaporated.  Serve  garnished  with  tufts  of  cauliflower 
or  brussels  sprouts.  The  tongue  may  be  trussed  while  hot  in  the 
form  of  an  arch,  by  y^utting  it  to  press  on  its  side  between  two  dishes 
with  a weight  on  top,  and  when  cold  trim  it  smooth,  or  with  a small, 


sharp  knife  carve  the  surface  so 
as  to  represent  leaves.  Or  place  it 
with  the  root  end  against  the  back 
of  dresser,  and  put  a strong  fork 
in  toy>  of  tongue  ; this  will  make  it 
assume  an  erect  and  nice  appear 
ance.  Let  it  get  quite  cold,  glaze 
it,  ornament  with  a paper  ruff  and 


a vegetable  flower,  and  garnish  with  aspic  jelly.  If  hot  serve  with 
spinach.  Boiled  tongue  is  nice  served  with  Polish  Sauce  made  as 
follows  : Skin  the  tongue  while  hot  and  put  in  another  pan  with  slices 
of  pork,  an  onion,  sliced  carrots,  spices  and  a calf’s  foot.  Stew  till 
brown,  dust  with  little  flour,  and  thin  the  gravy  or  sauce  with  a cup 
vinegar.  Boil  a few  moments,  take  out  tongue,  strain  sauce  and  add 


494 


MEATS. 


two  ounces  each  currants  and  whole  almonds,  blanched,  and 
pour  over  the  tongue.  Another  way  of  preparing  is  to  half 
boil  the  tongue  and  then  stew  it  in  a sauce  made  of  a little  broth, 
flour,  parsley,  one  small  onion,  small  carrot,  salt  and  pepper  and  one 
can  tomatoes,  cooked  and  strained.  Dish  the  tongue  and  strain  the 
sauce  over  it.  Or  pour  over  the  tongue  a sauce  made  of  a can  of 
tomatoes  half  boiled  down,  salted,  and  thickened  with  a tablespoon 
butter  and  teaspoon  flour  rubbed  together.  Fried  Tongue  is  very 
nice ; first  boil,  then  cut  into  slices  and  fry  in  hot  butter  with  a lit 
tie  minced  onion,  and  serve  with  a Pickle  Sauce  made  as  follows  : 
Put  a teaspoon  flour  in  pan  in  which  tongue  was  fried  and  when 
brown  add  cup  hot  water ; strain,  season  with  salt  and  pepper  and 
add  a tablespoon  any  chopped  pickles — piccalilli  is  best,  but  pickled 
cucumbers  may  be*  used  by  chopping  and  mixing  with  a little  mus- 
tard. Soak  the  slices  of  tongue  in  this  till  ready  to  serve,  when 
arrange  on  a platter  overlapping  one  another  and  pour  the  sauce 
over.  Or  braise  the  slices  of  tongue  and  serve  with  a little  spinach 
on  each,  or  with  a mayonnaise  or  tartare  sauce. 

Braised  Tongue— a fresh  beef  tongue,  and  with  a truss- 
ing needle  run  a strong  twine  through  the  roots  and  end  of  it,  draw- 
ing tightly  enough  to  have  the  end  meet  the  roots,  and  tie  firmly. 
Cover  with  boiling  water,  and  boil  gently  two  hours ; then  take  up 
and  drain.  Roll  in  flour  and  braise  as  Braised  Beef.  When  it 
has  been  cooking  an  hour  and  a half  add  the  juice  of  half  a lemon 
to  the  gravy.  When  done,  take  up,  melt  two  tablespoons  glaze  and 
pour  over  the  tongue,  and  place  in  the  heater  until  the  gravy  is  made. 
Mix  one  tablespoon  corn-starch  with  a little  cold  water,  and  stir  into 
the  boiling  gravy,  of  which  there  should  be  one  pint.  Boil  one 
minute,  then  strain,  and  pour  around  the  tongue.  Garnish  with 
parsley,  and  serve.  Another  nice  dish  is  made  by  braising  an  ox 
tongue,  then  cut  into  thick  slices,  cover  them  with  slices  of  bacon 
sprinkled  with  chopped  herbs ; wrap  carefully  in  oiled  ^ sheets  of 
paper  so  that  no  gravy  may  escape,  and  broil.  They  will  be  done 
in  a few  moments. 

Pickled  Tongue. — Procure  ten  small  tongues,  wash  in  cold 
w^ater  and  put  to  cook  in  boiling  water,  with  a sliced  lemon,  table- 
spoon salt  and  teaspoon  whole  cloves  and  pepper-corns  : keep  cov- 
ered with  boiling  water,  and  boil  gently  until  tender,  which  'will  b 
in  half  or  three-quarters  of  an  hour.  When  tongues  are  done  take 
them  up,  trim  them,  remove  the  skin  and  pack  in  glass  jars,  with  a 
tablespoon  each  whole  cloves  and  pepper-corns,  and  a blade  of  mace ; 
cover  with  cold  vinegar,  and  let  stand  overnight  before  using,  or 
longer  if  desired.  In  cool  w^eather  they  will  keep  several  weeks  if 
kept  closely  covered.  Any  tongue  may  be  pickled  same.  The  re- 
mains of  pickled  tongues  are  very  nice  chopped,  placed  in  a pan  and 
pressed,  when  they  will  turn  out  resembling  collared  meat.  A little 


MEATS 


495 


thick  jelly  may  be  poured  into  the  pan  with  them.  Slices  of  cold 
tongue  may  be  warmed  in  any  kind  of  savory  sauce  and  laid  in  a 
pile  in  center  of  a dish,  the  sauce  being  poured  over  them. 

Potted  Tongue. — Boil  tongue  three  hours,  if  a beef’s  tongue,  or 
until  tender.  Dip  into  cold  water  and  peel  off  the  skin ; mince  fine 
and  pound  to  a paste.  To  each  pint  paste  add  tablespoon  butter^ 
teaspoon  mixed  mustard,  ground  spices  to  taste,  half  mace,  the  rest 
cloves,  nutmeg  and  cayenne,  and  a little  salt.  Pound  all  together, 
and  place  closely  in  a small  jar,  pouring  melted  butter  on  top.  Some 
set  in  oven  in  pan  of  hot  water  and  bake  half  an  hour,  then  cover 
with  the  butter,  tie  down  and  put  in  cold  place.  For  Tongue  Toast^ 
make  thin  slices  of  toast,  shape  and  spread  thinly  with  butter,  then 
with  a layer  of  potted  tongue  and  set  in  oven  with  door  open  a few 
minutes. 

Scalloped  Tongue. — For  each  pint  cold  chopped  tongue  (not 
too  fine)  take  one  cup  bread-crumbs,  half  cup  stock,  three  table- 
spoons butter  and  seasoning  of  one  teaspoon  each  salt,  chopped 
parsley  and  capers  and  a tablespoon  onion  juicOo  Butter  baking 
dish  and  cover  bottom  with  crumbs,  put  in  the  tongue  with  the 
seasonings,  except  the  onion  juice,  which  is  mixed  with  the  stock 
and  poured  over ; put  in  some  of  the  butter,  cover  with  the  remain- 
der of  the  bread-crumbs,  put  bits  of  butter  over,  bake  about  twenty 
minutes  and  serve  hot. 

Stewed  Tongue. — Take  six  tongues  of  either  sheep  or  lambs, 
three  heaping  tablespoons  butter,  one  large  onion,  two  slices  carrot, 
three  slices  white  turnip,  three  tablespoons  flour,  one  of  salt,  a little 
pepper,  one  quart  stock  or  water  and  a bunch  of  sweet  herbs.  Boil 
the  tongues  an  hour  and  a half  in  clear  water ; then  take  up,  cover 
with  cold  water,  and  draw  off  skins.  Put  the  butter,  onion,  turnip 
and  carrot  in  the  stewpan,  and  cook  slowly  for  fifteen  minutes ; 
lihen  add  the  flour,  and  cook  until  brown,  stirring  all  the  while.  Stir 
the  stock  into  this,  and  when  it  boils,  add  the  tongue,  salt,  pep- 
per and  herbs.  Simmer  gently  two  hours.  Place  the  tongues  in  center 
of  dish,  arrange  vegetables  around  them  and  strain  the  gravy  ovej 
all.  Garnish  with  parsley,  or  with  fried  bread  cut  in  diamonds  or 
other  fancy  shapes.  Or  after  skinning  the  tongues  place  a plate  and 
weight  on  them  to  flatten  them,  glaze  them,  if  liked,  arrange  in  a 
circle  around  a dish  of  spinach  or  mashed  potato,  or  serve  with  a 
Mayonnaise  or  tartare  sauce  in  center.  Or  the  tongues  may  fi^st 
be  braised  with  a little  salt  pork,  an  onion,  parsley  and  whole  pep- 
])ers,  then  stewed  until  tender  and  served  as  above.  If  a beef  tongue 
is  cooked  thus,  serve  with  spinach  as  a border.  Season  the  spinach 
with  lemon  juice,  a little  of  the  tongue  stock,  cayenne  pepper,  salt 
and  butter.  For  Larded  Tongue^  lard  the  tongue  with  square 
fillets  of  bacon,  which  have  been  dredged  with  chopped  parsley,  salt, 
pepper  and  a little  allspice  ; put  it  in  saucepan  on  a bed  of  vegetablef=^ 


496 


MEATS. 


with  slices  of  fat  pork ; add  half  pint  water  or  broth  and  two  table- 
spoons vinegar ; set  on  a moderate  fire  and  simmer  about  five  hours^ 
keeping  well  covered.  Put  the  tongue  on  a dish  and  strain  the 
sauce  over  it. 


Fillets  of  Tongue. — Cut  cold  boiled  tongue  in  fillets  or  pieces 
about  four  inches  long,  two  wide,  and  half  an  inch  thick.  Dip  in 
melted  butter  and  roll  in  flour.  For  eight  pieces  put  two  table- 
spoons butter  in  frying-pan,  and  when  very  hot  put  in  the  tongue 
brown  on  both  sides,  but  do  not  allow  to  burn.  Take  up,  add  table- 
spoon more  butter  and  teaspoon  flour,  stir  till  a rich  brown,  and  add 
cup  stock,  half  teaspoon  parsley  and  tablespoon  lemon  juice.  Boil 
up  once  and  pour  over  the  tongue,  which  should  be  dished  on 
thin  strips  of  toast.  Garnish  with  parsley  and  serve.  A tablespoon 
chopped  pickles  or  capers  may  be  stirred  through  the  sauce  just  be- 
fore serving,  if  liked. 


Tongue  in  Jelly. — Boil  and  skin  either  a fresh  or  salt  tongue ; 
when  cold  trim  off  the  roots.  Have  one  and  a fourth  quarts  aspic 
jelly  in  liquid  state.  Cover  bottom  oftwo-qua,rt  mold  about  an  inch 
deep  with  it,  and  let  harden.  Cut  out  leaves  from  cooked  beets  with 
a fancy  vegetable  cutter,  and  garnish  bottom  of  mold  with  them 
gently  pour  in  three  tablespoons  jelly,  to  set  the  beets.  When  hard , 
add  jelly  enough  to  cover  the  vegetables,  amA 
let  the  whole  get  very  hard.  Then  put  in  th^ 
tongue,  and  about  half  a cup  jelly,  which  shouL  J 
'be  allowed  to  harden,  and  so  keep  the  meat  i?ii 
Large  Mold.  place  wheii  the  remainder  is  added.  Pour  in 

the  remainder  of  the  jelly  and  set  away  to  harden.  When  ready  t'l 
serve,  dip  the  mould  for  a few  moments  in  pan  of  warm  water,  and 
gently  turn  on  to  a dish.  Rings  of  the  white  of  boiled  eggs  may 
used  with  or  in  place  of  the  cooked  beets.  Garnish  with  pickles  anuV 
parsley ; pickled  beet  is  especially  nice.  For  Lambs'^  Tongues  u\ 
Jelly.,  prepare  the  same  as  beef  tongues.  Three  or  four  molds,  eacN 
holding  a little  less  than  a pint,  will  make  enough  for  a small  com 
pany,  one  tongue  being  put  in  each  mold.  The  tongues  can  all  be 
put  on  the  same  dish,  or  on  two,  if  table  is  long.  Or  boil  a beefs 
tongue  and  let  it  get  cold.  For  the  jelly  mix  pint  liquor  in  wmich 
tongue  was  boiled  with  cup  brown  veal  gravy,  three  tablespoons 
vinegar,  one  of  sugar  and  one  of  Caramel  Coloring ; add  two  ounces 
gelatine  dissolved  in  half  pint  water,  mix  well,  pour  over  all  a pirn 
boiling  water  and  strain  through  flannel.  Let  the  jelly  cool  until 
it  begins  to  tnicken,  then  cut  the  tongue  in  slices  as  for  table,  put  a 
little  jelly  in  bottom  of  wet  mold,  then  a layer  of  tongue,  more  jell^r 
and  so  on  until  mold  is  full,  and  finish  as  above ; serve  garnished 
with  sprigs  of  celery  or  nasturtium  flowers. 


Baked  Tripe. — When  buying  tripe  get  the  honey-combed ; if 
prepared  at  home  observe  directions  in  Cutting  and  Curing  Meats. 


MEATS. 


497 


Take  two  pounds  boiled  tripe  cut  in  small,  irregular  pieces,  and  put 
a layer,  a half  inch  deep,  in  bottom  of  deep  dish.  Sprinkle  over  this 
a layer  of  bread-crumbs  and  a little  pepper  and  salt,  and  continue 
alternating  layers  of  tripe,  seasoning,  and  bread-crumbs  until  the 
dish  is  full,  leaving  a layer  bread-crumbs  on  top.  Add  two  well- 
beaten  eggs  to  half  pint  liquor  in  which  tripe  was  boiled,  stir  togeth- 
er and  popr  the  mixture  over  the  tripe  and  bread-crumbs  in  dish. 
Place  in  moderate  oven  and  bake  half  an  hour.  Serve  in  dish  in 
which  it  is  baked. 

Broiled  Tripe. — Cut  honey-combed  tripe  into  pieces  of  three  of 
four  inches  wide  ; rub  a little  oil  or  melted  butter  over  them,  roll  in 
flour,  and  broil  over  a charcoal  or  wood  Are,  squeeze  a little  lemon 
juice  over  each  piece  and  serve.  Never  broil  tripe  over  a hard-coal 
fire,  the  gasses  arising  from  the  coal  spoil  the  flavor  of  the  tripe, 
making  it  indigestible  and  unpalatable. 

Fricasseed  Tripe. — Cut  the  tripe  into  square  pieces  and  put  in 
stewpan  with  a blade  of  mace,  bouquet  of  herbs,  an  onion  quartered, 
salt  and  cayenne.  Cover  with  water  and  a little  vinegar  and  stew 
one  hour.  Strain  the  sauce  and  put  tripe  and  sauce  in  a clean 
saucepan,  with  a tablespoon  of  butter  rolled  in  flour,  a gill  cream  and 
tablespoon  chopped  parsley.  Simmer  ten  minutes,  squeeze  in  juice 
of  a lemon,  and  serve.  Or  cut  in  narrow  strips,  add  water  or  milk, 
tablespoon  butter  mixed  with  one  of  flour,  season  with  pepper  and  a 
little  salt,  simmer  slowly  for  some  time,  and  serve  hot  garnished 
with  parsley. 

Fried  Tripe. — Cut  in  square  pieces,  dredge  with  flour,  or  dip  in 
egg  and  cracker  crumbs  and  fry  in  hot  butter,  or  other  fat,  until  a 
delicate  brown  on  both  sides ; lay  it  on  a dish,  add  vinegar  to  the 
gravy,  and  pour  over  the  tripe;  or  Ihe  vinegar  may  be  omitted,  and 
the  gravy  added,  or  the  tripe  maj  be  served  without  vinegar  or 
gravy.  Or  make  a batter  by  mixing  gradually  one  cup  flour  with 
one  of  sweet  milk,  adding  a well-beaten  egg  and  a little  salt ; drain 
the  tripe,  dip  in  batter,  and  fry  in  hot  drippings  or  lard. 

Pickled  Tripe. — After  the  tripe  has  been  thoroughly  cleaned 
put  in  salt  and  water  overnight.  In  the  morning  boil  till  tender,  let 
cool,  cut  in  small  pieces  and  lay  in  stone  jar.  On  the  top  put  some 
allspice  and  bay  leaves,  cover  with  vinegar,  and  set  in  cool  place  till 
wanted. 

Soused  Tripe. — Place  in  a stone  jar  in  layers,  seasoning  every 
layer  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  pour  over  boiling  vinegar,  in  which, 
if  desired,  a few  whole  cloves,  a sprinkle  of  mace,  and  a stick  of 
cinnamon  have  been  boiled ; or  cover,  with  the  jelly  or  liquor^  in 
which  the  tripe  was  boiled.  When  wanted  for  table,  take  out  of  jar, 
scrape  off*  the  liquid,  and  either  broil,  fricassee,  fry  in  batter,  or  fry 
plainly.  oo 


MEATS. 


ids 


Stewed  Tri'pe. — Carefully  clean  two  pounds  tripe,  cut  in  small 
strips  of  even  size,  wash  in  cold  water,  and  dry  in  a clean  towel ; chop 
a medium-sized  clove  of  garlic  very  fine,  put  it  over  the  fire  in  a gill 
of  good  salad  oil,  and  when  the  oil  begins  to  smoke,  put  in  the  tripe 
and  brown  it ; while  the  tripe  is  browning,  peel  and  slice  a quart  of 
tomatoes,  and  when  it  is  brown  add  them  to  it ; season  to  taste  with 
salt  and  red  pepper,  cover  closely,  and  cook  gently  two  hours.  Serve 
hot.  Butter  may  be  substituted  for  the  oil,  and  a chopped  onion  for 
the  garlic.  The  addition  of  a tablespoon  chopped  parsley  improves 
it  for  some.  This  is  also  called  Creoled  Tripe.  For  Tripe  Lyon- 
naise^  cut  one  pound  cooked  tripe  in  small  pieces,  brown  two  table- 
spoons butter,  add  tablespoon  each  chopped  onion  and  lemon  juice, 
with  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  when  the  whole  is  brown,  put  in 
the  pieces  of  tripe.  Cook  five  minutes  and  serve  on  neatly  shaped 
slices  of  toast.  For  Tripe  loith  Onion  Sauce.,  cut  two  pounds  boiled 
tripe  into  small,  irregular  pieces ; put  in  a stewpan,  cover  with  milk 
and  stew  over  slow  fire  half  an  hour.  Boil  an  onion  half  an  hour, 
take  out,  drain  well  aud  chop  fine.  When  the  tripe  is  done  stir  in 
chopped  onion,  season  well  with  butter,  pepper  and  salt,  adding  a 
little  thickening  of  flour  if  liked,  and  serve  at  once. 

Braised  Lamb. — Remove  bones  from  breast,  season  with  salt 
and  pepper,  then  roll  up  and  tie  with  twine  and  cook  as  in  Braised 
Beef.  To  serve  remove  the  twine,  skim  fat  from  gravy,  boil  up 
strain  and  pour  over  the  meat,  or  serve  with  tomato  or  bechamel 
sauce.  For  Braised  Loin  of  Lamb,  bone  the  loin  and  line  bottom 
of  stewpan  just  large  enough  to  hold  it  with  a few  thin  slices  of 
bacon,  add  vegetables  and  braise  as  above.  When  done  take  up  the 
meat,  dry  it  and  place  where  it  will  keep  hot.  Strain  and  reduce 
the  gravy  to  a glaze,  with  which  glaze  the  meat  and  serve  it  on 
stewed  pease,  or  spinach  or  stewed  cucumbers.  Braised  Shoulder  of 
Lamb  is  nice  if  first  larded  with  strips  of  fat  bacon,  highly  seasoned 
with  peper,  salt  and  chopped  parsley  (see  ’ directions  for  larding) ; 
then  roll  the  meat  round,  tie  it  up  and  put  in  stewpan  with  a quarter 
pound  butter,  over  slow  fire,  stirring  occasionally  until  a light  golden 
color ; pour  in  a quart  water  or  broth,  add  two  dozen  small  onions 
and  a bunch  of  parsley,  and  simmer  very  slowly  until  the  onions  are 
quite  tender ; take  up  the  meat,  pull  off  the  string,  and  place  it  on 
a dish  with  the  onions  round ; take  the  parsley  out,  carefully  skim 
off  all  fat,  and  boil  the  liquor  until  a thinnish  glaze,  which  pour  over 
the  meat  and  serve.  Mushrooms  may  be  added  ten  minutes  before 
sending  to  table,  if  liked.  The  cavity  from  which  the  bone  is  re- 
moved may  be  filled  with  force-meat,  if  preferred,  instead  of  rolling 
and  binding  the  meat.  Braised  Mutton  is  cooked  as  any  of  the 
above. 

Grilled  Lamb. — Boil  the  loin  half  an  hour,  then  take  out  and 
score,  brush  over  with  beaten  yolks  of  eggs  and  sprinkle  well  with 


MEATS. 


499 


bread-crumbs  seasoned  with  chopped  parsley ; put  in  dripping-pan 
and  place  in  oven  until  brown ; serve  hot  with  melted  butter  and 
lemon  pickle,  or  tomato  sauce,  or  cold  with  the  sauce.  A breast 
may  be  done  same,  and  Grilled  Mutton  is  also  prepared  in  same 
manner  i 

Roast  Z«r^J.~"The  loin,  forequarter  and  leg  are  all  very  nice 
roasted.  Prepare  and  roast  as  directed  in  Roasted  Meats,  a medium 
sized  forequarter  requiring  about  tw^o  hours.  Lamb  must  be  basted 
constantly  and  thoroughly  cooked  without  being  dried  up.  Some 
brush  clarified  butter  over  the  joint,  then  sprinkle  with  bread-crumbs 
seasoned  with  pepper,  salt  and  a little  minced  parsley,. and  cover 
with  slices  of  bacon,  held  in  place  by  skewers.  When  nearly  done 
remove  bacon  and  baste  with  beaten  yolk  of  egg  mixed  with  gravy, 
sprinkle  over  more  crumbs  and  let  browT^.  If  liked,  squeeze  juice  ol 
a lemon  over  and  serve  with  mint  sauce.  For  a nice  Roast  Leg  oi 
Lamb^  run  a sharp,  thin-bladed  knife  between  the  skin  and  flesh 
where  the  leg  is  thickest  in  such  a manner  as  to  form  a pouch,  and 
into  this  put  the  flesh  of  a small  red  herring,  and  a small  clove  oi 
garlic,  highly  seasoned  with  pepper  and  pounded  to  a paste,  forcing 
it  as  far  as  possible  under  the  skin,  then  roast  as  in  general  directions 
Or  the  bone  may  be  removed  and  the  cavity  filled  with  a common 
mal  stuffing  or  any  bread  dressing  or  force-meat  liked.  Tomatoes 
are  sometimes  baked  in  the  pan  with  lamb  and  served  with  it.  A 
Roast  Saddle  of  Lamb  is  a very  dainty  dish  for  a small  party.  Put 
in  dripping-pan,  with  a few  small  pieces  of  butter  on  the  meat,  and 
baste  occasionally  with  tried-out  lamb-fat;  season  with  salt  and  pep- 
per and  dredge  a little  flour  over  it  a few  minutes  before  taking  from 
the  oven.  Serve  with  currant  jelly,  and  send  to  table  with  early 
vegetables.  A mild  mint  sauce  may  be  served  with  the  joint  Pota- 
to balls,  seasoned  with  nutmeg  and  chopped  parsle}^,  singie-breaded 
and  fried,  make  a nice  garnish  for  the  roast,  surrounding  with  them, 
with  a drawn  butter  sauce  poured  over  the  meat.  Pease,  spinach  and 
cauliflower  are  served  with  roast  lamb,  also  fresh  salads.  Anothei 
nice  roast  is  called  Carbonade  of  Lamb.  For  this  select  a loir 
weighing  three  pounds  or  more  and  have  butcher  skin  and  take  ou^ 
bone,  keeping  bone  for  use  in  pan  or  to  boil  for  broth.  Make  ^ 
force-meat  of  a slice  of  bread  soaked  in  cold  water  and  squeezed  dry 
level  teaspoon  any  powdered  sweet  herb,  thyme,  marjoram  or  sum 
mer  savory,  saitspoon  salt,  pinch  of  pepper,  tablespoon  butter, 
raw  egg,  and  a little  chopped  onion  if  liked , mix  well  together  and 
place  in  bone  cavity  and  sew  up.  Roast  in  Dutch  oven  or  bake  in 
ordinary  oven.  When  brown  on  one  side  turn  to  brown  the  other, 
then  season,  dredge  with  dry  flour  and  baste  every  ten  or  fifteen 
minutes.  For  gravy,  mix  a tablespoon  flour  with  drippings  in  pan, 
let  brown  and  turn  in  slowly  a pint  water,  seasoning  to  taste.  Some 
cooks  serve  roast  lamb  rather  rare,  or  well  done  on  the  outside  and 
pink  within  , it  should  be  served  steaming  hot  with  a caper,  pickle. 


500 


MEATS. 


or  mint  sauce.  If  carved  through  the  center  it  may  be  nicely  served 
again  next  day  hy  stuffing  the  cut-out  space  with  boiled  mashed 
potatoes,  smoothing  evenly  around,  and  placing  long  enough  in  oven 
to  become  thoroughly  hot.  Lamb  is  sometimes  roasted  entirely 
whole,  simpl}^  skinned,  the  entrails  removed  and  feet  cut  off.  It  should 
be  not  more  than  six  weeks  or  two  months  old,  when  the  bones  cut 
like  gristle  and  the  meat  is  singularly  delicate.  It  may  be  stuffed 
with  bread  dressing  and  sweet  herbs  and  served  with  bread  sauce, 
l)ut  is  more  frequently  eaten  with  lemon  juice.  When  the  lamb  is 
older,  to  roast  whole,  bone  from  the  neck  to  the  shoulders,  skewer 
the  legs  to  the  body,  and  cover  with  slices  of  bacon,  which  may  be 
tied  or  skewered  on,  but  must  be  removed  when  meat  is  nearly  done 
that  it  may  be  basted  and  browned  nicely.  Roast  Mutton  may  be 
prepared  in  any  of  above  ways. 

Stewed  Iamb. — Cut  the  neck  or  breast  in  pieces  and  put  it  in  a 
stewpan  with  salt  pork  or  bacon  sliced  thin,  and  enough  water  or 
stock  to  cover;  cover  closely  and  stew  until  meat  is  tender,  then 
skim  well,  add  a quart  green  shelled  peas,  and  more  hot  water  or 
stock  if  necessary ; cover  till  peas  are  tender,  then  add  a bit  of  but- 
ter rolled  in  flour,  and  pepper  to  taste  ; simmer  a few  minutes  and 
se^ve.  For  another  nice  Stew  with  Green  Peas^  leave  the  breast  of 
lamb  whole,  simply  removing  the  skin ; put  the  breast  in  pan  of  hot 
water  and  leave  five  minutes,  line  bottom  of  stewpan  with  thin  slices 
of  bacon,  put  in  the  lamb  and  lay  on  it  a lemon  cut  in  slices,  to  keep 
meat  white  and  make  it  tender ; cover  with  one  or  two  slices  of 
bacon,  add  a half  pint  white  stock,  an  onion  and  a bunch  savory 
herbs.  Stew  gently  over  slow  fire  until  tender,  and  serve  on  a bed 
of  green  peas,  cooked  separately.  The  lamb  may  be  glazed  and 
spinach  substituted  for  peas  if  preferred,  or  it  may  be  served  on  a 
bed  of  stew^ed  mushrooms.  Or  first  fry  either  the  breast  or  leg  in 
butter  or  drippings  until  a nice  brown,  and  add  water  or  stock  to 
cover  vnth  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper.  Sinimer  three-quarters  of 
an  hour  and  add  ahalf  peck  green  peas.  Cook  until  peas  are  done, 
dust  in  a very  little  flour  and  serve  hot  with  peas  as  a border.  For 
Stewed  Lamb  with  Tomatoes.,  saw  the  breast  or  brisket  lengthwise 
through  the  bones  ; then  skin,  divide  in  pieces,  wash  and  put  to  stew 
in  water  or  broth  to  cover,  cut  carrots,  turnips  and  onions  (enough 
to  fill  a cup)  in  dice,  and  boil  in  water  separately;  pour  off  water 
when  they  are  half  done  and  put  them  in  the  stew  with  a cup  cut 
tomatoes.  Boil  half  an  hour  longer,  thicken  slightly  if  necessary, 
season  with  pepper  and  salt  and  last  add  a tablespoon  chopped  pars- 
ley. In  dishing  up  take  up  two  pieces  of  meat  for  each  dish  and 
place  in  middle  of  individual  flat  platter  with  vegetables  and 
sauce  or  gravy  from  stew  at  each  end.  Stewed  Lamb  with  As- 
paragus is  also  nice.  Remove  skin  and  part  of  fat  from  the  breast 
or  shoulder  and  cut  it  into  neat  pieces  ; dredge  a little  flour  over  and 
place  in  stewpan  with  tablespoon  butter  and  fry  till  nicely  browned ; 


MEATS. 


501 


then  cover  with  warm  water,  add  a bunch  parsley,  two  button  onions 
and  simmer  until  meat  is  done ; skim  off  fat,  take  out  onions  and 
parsley,  mince  the  latter  finely,  return  it  to  the  gravy  with  a pint  of 
of  boiled  aspa^’agus  tops,  add  salt  and  pepper,  simmer  a few  minutes 
longer  and  serve.  Canned  asparagus  may  be  used.  A plain  stew 
of  lamb  is  nice,  first  fried  as  above,  cooked  without  vegetables,  and 
served  with  its  own  gravy  poured  over,  flavored  with  four  tablespoons 
tomato  catsup,  or  served  with  mint  sauce.  When  the  leg  or  shoub 
der  is  stevv^ed  the  bone  may  be  removed  and  the  cavity  stuffed  with 
any  force-meat  preferred.  The  loin  may  be  stewed  whole  or  in 
steaks ; when  stewed  whole  secure  the  flap  with  a skewer.  Stewed 
Mutton  is  prepared  in  any  of  above  ways, 

Lamh  Chops.— Trim,  off  the  fat  from  a loin  of  lamb,  cut  into  chops 
about  three-fourths  inch  in  thickness,  and  for  Broiled  Lamb  Chops 
proceed  as  directed  in  Broiled  Meats,  remembering  that  they  require 
little  cocking  and  must  be  done  very  quickly.  Season  with  pepper  and 
gait  and  serve  immediately,  very  hot,  garnished  with  crisped  parsley ; 
or  dish  them  in  a circle  round  green  pease  or  a mound  of  mashed  po- 
tatoes. Asparagus,  spinach,  cauliflower  and  beans  are  also  served 
with  iamb  or  mutton  chops,  and  stuffed  baked 
tomatoes  are  nice  with  them.  When  chops  are  cut 
from  the  loin  as  above, some  like  to  have  the  kidney 
retained  in  its  place.  When  chops  are  made 
horn  breast  the  red  bone  at  the  edge  should  be  cut  off,  and  the  breast 
parboiled  in  water  or  broth,  with  a sliced  ca*'rot  and  two  or  three 
onions,  before  it  is  divided  into  cutlets,  which  is  done  by  cutting 
between  every  second  or  third  bone.  Many  prefer  to  single-bread 
lamb  chops  before  broiling,  and  after  dipping  in  egg  some  season 
with  pepper,  salt,  nutmeg,  grated  lemon-peel,  and  chopped  parsley. 
For  Fried  Ijamh  Chops,  choose  cutlets  or  chops  about  half  an 
inch  thick  and  fry  in  a mixture  of  butter  and  currant  jelly,  half  and 
half — twm  tablespoons  of  each  to  four  cutlets — turning  to  brown 
both  sides.  Season  highly  with  salt  and  peppe^'  and  serve  on  hot 
platter  with  the  gravy  from  pan  poured  over.  Or  fry  plainly  by 
putting  in  hot  frying-pan,  turning  quickly  to  brown  both  sides  and 
keep  in  the  juices,  then  fry  until  done.  Season  just  before  taking 
up  and  serve  on  hot  dish  with  a gravy  made  in  pan.  flavored  with 
mushroom  or  tomato  catsup,  poured  over.  Or  double-bread  them 
and  fry,  though  some  only  single-bread  cutlets,  adding  to  the  sifted 
crumbs  a seasoning  of  pepper  and  salt  and  a little  chopped  parsle} 
or  onion  and  grated  lemon  peel  and  pounded  mace,  if  liked.  Or  first 
sear  them  quickly  on  each  side  in  frying-pan,  then  single-bread  and 
fry  or  broil.  They  may  be  fried  in  little  butter  or  drippings,  but  are 
much  nicer  if  dropped  into  hot  fat.  Some  do  not  use  egg  in  breading  cut- 
lets but  dip  them  into  melted  butter  or  kettle  of  fat,  and  roll  in  crumbs, 
then  fry  as  Fritters.  Dish  as  Broiled  Chops,  and  serve  with  clear 
red  currant  jelly  or  mushroom,  onion  or  tomato  sauce.  Fried  toma- 


502 


MEATS. 


toes  (see  Vegetables)  are  nice  with  cutlets.  Serve  tomatoes  in  cen- 
ter of  dish  with  cutlets  in  circle  round,  or  arranged  at  either  end.  Oi 
after  the  chops  have  been  plainly  fried,  dip  them  up  to.  the  bones  in 
stiff  white  sauce  well  flavored  with  mushrooms  and  set  in  cool  place 
or  on  ice  until  the  sauce  hardens ; then  single-bread  them  and  fry 
in  hot  fat.  Or  mix  six  tablespoons  grated  Parmesan  cheese  with 
two  tablespoons  white  sauce,  thoroughly  coat  the  chops  with  this, 
first  fried  plainly  as  above,  then  double-egg-bread  them,  and  drop  re- 
hot  fat  until  a nice  golden  brown.  Dish  in  a circle  and  garnish 
with  fried  parsley.  Mutton  Outlets  and  Chops  are  cooked  after  any  oi 
above  methods.  Serve  in  a circle  with  stewed  pease  in  center. 

Lamb  Fricassee.-— Q>vX  a breast  of  lamb  into  pieces  about  an 
inch  and  a half  square ; season  with  salt  and  pepper  and  put  in  sauce- 
pan with  a quartered  onion,  three  cloves,  a bay-leaf,  and  three  table- 
spoons butter.  Cover  closely,  and  steam  gently  half  an  hour,  shak- 
ing occasionally  to  prevent  sticking.  Add  a pint  boiling  water, 
coyer  closely  and  boil  gently  one. hour;  then  strain  the  sauce  and 
thicken  with  a tablespoon  of  flour,  mixed  smooth  with  a little  cold 
water,  boil  a moment  longer  and  serve.  A tablespoon  very  small 
capers  may  be  added  before  serving. 

Boiled  Mutton. — Mutton  can  be  cooked  like  any  of  the  pre- 
ceeding  recipes  for  lamb,  and  the  latter  can  also  be  cooked  like  any 
of  the  following  recipes  for  mutton.  The  leg  and  shoulder  are  most 
used  for  boiling.  To  prepare  Boiled  Leg  of  Mutton  cut  off  the 
shank  bone,  trim  the  knuckle,  wash  well  and  he  sure  to  remove  the 
thin  outside  skin.  The  oil  of  the  wool  penetrates  through  the  pores 
of  the  skin,  and  from  this  comes  that  strong,  woolly  taste,  rendering 
mutton  so  objectionable.  Then,  if  wanted  plainly  boiled,  cook  as 
directed  in  Boiled  Meats,  letting  the  water  boil  down  to  gravy.  A 
leg  weighing  eight  or  nine  pounds  will  cook  in  an  hour  and  a quar- 
ter, if  wanted  very  rare,  allowing  five  minutes  for  every  additional 
pound.  Two  hours  or  more  will  be  required  to  cook  it  well  done. 
Serve  with  caper,  cucumber  or  mint  sauce,  or  currant  jelly.  Some 
first  soak  the  leg  an  hour  or  two  in  salted  water,  then  wipe  dry,  wrap 
the  flank  nicely  round,  securing  it  with,  skewers,  and  boil  in  a floured 
cloth.  The  greatest  care  must  be  exercised  that  the  mutton  does  not 
cook  too  rapidly  after  first  plunging  in  boiling  water,  after  which  it 
must  only  simmer  gently  till  done.  Carrots  and  mashed  turnips 
may  be  served  with  this  dish,  and  may  be  boiled  with  the  meat. 
Very  young  turnips  may  be  boiled  whole  and  used  as  a garnish. 
Mashed  potatoes  and  greens  are  also  served  with  it  and  boiled  rice 
or  hominy  are  liked  with  it  by  some.  The  liquor  the  joint  is  boiled 
in  should  be  made  into  soup.  The  leg  may  be  boned  and  stuffed 
with  any  dressing  preferred,  then  cooked  as  above.  Or  parboil 
some  nice  plump  oj^sters,  take  off  beards  and  add  to  them  some 
parsley,  minced  onion,  and  sweet  herbs,  boiled  and  chopped  fine,  and 


MEATS. 


503 


the  yolks  of  two  or  three  hard-boiled  eggs.  Mix  all  together,  and 
cut  five  or  six  holes  in  fleshy  part  of  a leg  of  mutton,  and  put  in  the 
mixture.  Tie  in  a cloth  and  boil  as  above,  or  braise  it  and  serve 
with  any  sayce  liked.  Boiled  Shoulder  of  Mutton,  considered  by 
many  superior  to  the  leg,  may  be  cooked  after  any  of  the  above 
methods.  For  Boiled  Breast  of  Mutton^  cut  all  superfluous  fat 
from  the  breast,  bone  it,  sprinkle  over  a layer  of  bread-crumbs, 
minced  herbs  and  seasoning ; roll,  bind  firmly  with  tape,  and  cook 
and  serve  as  above,  removing  tape  when  dished.  . Boiled  Neck  cf 
Mutton  is  a very  good  dish  when  carefully  prepared,  though  gener- 
ally used  for  soup.  It  may  be  plainly  boiled  with  carrots  and  tur- 
nips and  garnished  with  them,  or  boil  slowly  until  tender,  then  take 
out,  cover  with  sifted  bread-crumbs,  well  seasoned  and  moistened 
with  milk  and  the  yolk  of  an  egg,  flavored  with  finely  chopped  sweet 
herbs,  and  set  in  oven  to  brown  nicely.  Serve  with  either  of  above 
sauces  and  accompaniments.  The  breast  may  be  dressed  in  same 
manner,  adding  chopped  mushrooms  to  dressing  if  liked.  Boiled 
Lamb  is  prepared  in  same  way,  generally  serving  with  mint  sauce. 

Boned  Mutton. — Cut  off  all  fat  from  leg  of  mutton,  take  the 
bone  out  carefully,  and  preserve  the  skin  whole ; take  out  meat  and 
mince  it  fine,  and  mix  with  it  about  one  pound  minced  fat  bacon 
and  some  parsley;  season  the  whole  well  with  pepper  and  salt,  and 
a small  quantity  of  onions  chopped  fine  ; then  put  meat  into  skin 
and  sew  it  up  neatly  on  under  side  ; tie  it  up  in  a cloth  and  put  it 
into  stewpan  with  two  or  three  slices  of  veal,  some  sliced  carrots  and 
onions,  a bunch  of  parsley,  and  a few  slices  of  fat  bacon  ; let  it  stew 
for  three  or  four  hours,  and  drain  the  liquor  through  a fine  sieve ; 
when  reduced  to  a glaze,  cover  the  mutton  with  it  and  serve  upon  a 
bed  of  rice. 

Curried  Mutton. — Put  breast  of  mutton  in  stewpan  with  two 
quarts  water,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  simmer  slowly  an 
hour  and  a half.  Cut  an  onion  in  slices  and  brown  it  nicely  in  blit- 
ter, add  teaspoon  curry  powder  and  little  salt.  Take  meat  out  of 
broth,  stir  the  curry  through,  put  the  meat  back,  and  stew  an  hour 
longer.  Dish,  and  pour  gravy  over.  If  it  is  not  thick  enough,  thicken 
with  browned  flour  and  let  it  boil  a minute  before  putting  it  over 
meat.  Curried  Lamb  is  prepared  same  v/ay. 

Haricot  Mutton.- — Trim  off  some  of  the  fat  from  four  pounds 
of  the  middle  or  best  end  of  the  neck,  cut  into  rather  thin  chops, 
and  put  in  frying  pan  with  the  fat  trimmings.  Fry  pale  brown,  Imt 
do  not  cook  enough  for  eating.  Cut  three  carrots  and  three  turnips 
into  dice,  three  onions  into  slices,  and  slightly  fry  them  in  fat  mut- 
,ton  was  browned  in,  but  do  not  color  them.  Lay  the  mutton  in  bob 
tom  of  stewpan,  then  the  vegetables,  and  pour  over  boiling  water  to 
just  cover.  Give  one  boil,  skim  well,  and  then  simmer  gently  until 
meat  is  tender.  Skim  off  every  particle  of  fat,  add  a seasoning  of 


504 


MEATS. 


pepper  and  salt,  and  a little  catsup,  and  serve.  This  dish  is  very 
much  better  if  made  the  day  before  wanted  for  table,  as  the  fat  can 
be  so  much  more  easily  removed  when  gravy  is  cold.  This  should 
be  particularly  attended  to,  as  it  is  apt  to  be  too  rich  and  greasy 
if  eaten  the  same  day  it  is  made.  Serve  in  rather  deep  dish.  Or,  cut 
mutton  into  square  pieces,  and  fry  a nice  brown ; dredge  over  a little 
flour  and  a seasoning  of  pepper  and  salt.  Put  into  a stewpan, 
moisten  with  boiling  water  and  add  an  onion,  stuck  with  three 
cloves,  a blade  of  mace  and  bunch  sweet  herbs,  simmer  gently  till, 
meat  is  nearly  done,  skim  otf  all  fat,  and  then  add  carrots  and  tur- 
nips, previously  cut  in  dice  and  fried  in  a little  sugar  to  color  them. 
Let  the  whole  simmer  again  ten  minutes,  take  out  the  onion  and 
bunch  of  herbs,  and  serve. 

Roast  Mutton. — The  leg,  saddle,  loin  and  shoulder  are  the  best 
pieces  for  roasting.  Have  the  butcher  trim  nicely,  prepare  as  for 
Boiled  Mutton,  and  to  roast  plainly  follow  directions  given  in  Roast- 
ed Meats.  Some  cover  the  joint  with  buttered  paper,  which  is  taken 
off  about  twenty  minutes  before  roast  is  done  to  baste,  dredge  and 
brown  the  meat.  Serve  with  its  own  gravy  and  red  currant  jelly  and 
mashed  potatoes,  or  with  onion  sauce  or  stewed  onions.  If  there  is 
a large  flap  to  loin  put  in  some  of  the  dressing  and  skewer  securely, 
then  bake  and  serve  as  above.  Some 
roast  a Saddle  of  Mittton  as  Veni- 
son, in  a coarse  paste,  taking  off  to 
baste  and  brown  a few  minutes  be- 
fore done.  Or  roast  plainly  as  above. 

Garnish  with  little  piles  of  potato 
balls  and  tufts  of  lettuce  or  any 
green  leaves.  Some  cooks  roast  the  saddle  of  Mutton, 

neck,  cutting  the  bones  off  short  and  trimming  nicely.  For  Roast 
Leg  of  Mutton^  take  the  flank  off,  but  leave  all  the  fat,  cut  out  the 
bone,  stuff  with  a rich  force-meat,  lard  the  top  and  sides  with  bacon, 
and  put  it  in  a pan  with  a little  water,  some  chopped  onion  and  cel- 
ery cut  small,  a gill  of  mushroom  catsup  and  a teaspoon  curry  pow- 
der; roast  and  serve  as  above  with  the  gravy,  garnished  with  force- 
meat balls,  fried.  For  Roast  Shoulder  of  Mutton.,  have  the  shoul- 
der boned  and  fill  cavity  with  a nice  bread  dressing  or  force-meat. 
Then  roll,  tie  loosely,  giving  the  dressing  room  to  swell,  place  in 
oven  in  pan  with  little  butter,  baste  often,  turn  occasionally  to 
brown  evenly  and  serve  with  its  own  gravy  and  any  of  the  above 
garnishes.  To  finish  any  roast  very  handsomely,  brush  over  with 
glaze,  following  directions  given  for  Glaze  in  Gravies. 

Rolled  Mutton. — Cover  the  meat  with  cold  water  and  when  it 
begins  to  boil  draw  to  back  of  stove  and  simmer  three  hours.  Then 
take  up,  bone  it  and  spread  v/itli  a force-meat  of  bread-crumbs,  pars- 
ley, thyme,  chopped  suet,  salt  and  pepper ; double  or  roll  it,  skew- 


MEATS. 


505 


eriwg  to  keep  in  place,  coat  thickly  with  beaten  egg  and  bread- 
cru.nbs  and  bake  on  a trivet  in  moderate  oven,  basting  often  Avith 
dri}.  pings  or  butter,  until  nicely  browned.  Serve  on  a bed  of  spin- 
ach or  stewed  onions.  Equal  to  most  tender  joint  of  lamb. 

Stewed  MiUton. — The  breast,  neck  and  shoulder  pieces  are  most 
used  for  steAving.  For  an  Irish  Stew  procure  three  pounds  neck  ol 
mutton  and  cut  in  neat  pieces.  Put  about  half  the  fat  in  steAvpan, 
Avith  four  sliced  onions,  and  stir  for  eight  or  ten  minutes  OA^er  a hot 
lire ; then  put  in  the  meat,  Avhich  sprinkle  with  flour,  salt  and 
pepper.  Stir  ten  minutes,  add  tAvo  quarts  boiling  water,  and  simmer 
one  hour ; then  add  six  large  potatoes,  peeled,  and  cut  in  quarters, 
simmer  an  hour  longer,  and  eer^re.  Cook  dumplings  Avith  this  dish, 
if  liked.  They  are  a great  addition  to  all  kinds  of  stews  and  ragouts. 
Or  the  meat  may  be  cut  into  small  pieces  and  put  in  steAvpan  in 
la,yers  AAuth  the  sliced  onions  and  potatoes,  Avith  salt  and'  pepper 
sprinkled  between  the  layers,  and  A^egetables  on  top.  Cover  closely 
and  stew  gently  an  hour  or  more,  being  careful  that  it  does  not 
burn.  For  Stewed  Breast  o f Mutton  take  a rather  lean  breast  cut  in 
pieces  about  two  inches  square  put  into  steAA^pan  with  a little  fat  or 
butter,  and  fry  a nice  broAvn  ; then  dredge  in  a little  flour,  slice  two 
onions, and  put  with  bunch  of  herbs  in  the  steAvpan  ; pour  in  sufficient 
water  to  just  cover  the  meat,  and  simmer  the  Avhole  gently  until 
mutton  is  tender.  Take  out  meat,  strain  and  skim  off  all  fat  from 
gravy,  and  put  both  meat  and  gravy  back  in  steAvpan  ; add  about  a 
quart  young  green  pease,  and  let  boil  gently  until  done.  Tavo  or  three 
slices  of  bacon  steAved  Avith  the  mutton  giA^e  additional  flavor ; and 
to  ensure  the  pease  being  a beautiful  green  color,  they  may  be  boiled 
in  Avater  separately,  and  added  to  the  steAvat  the  moment  of  serving. 
String  beans  or  boiled  macaroni  may  be  substituted  for  the  pease. 
For  Stewed  Shoulder  of  Mutton,  first  parboil,  then  put  it  in  steAvpan 
with  tAvo  quarts  mutton  gravy,  quarter  pound  rice,  teaspoon  mush- 
room powder,  Avith  a little  pounded  mace,  and  steAV  till  the  rice  is 
tender;  take  up  mutton  and  keep  hot ; add  to  the  rice  half  pint 
cream  and  piece  of  butter  rolled  in  flour ; stir  it  well  round  the  pan, 
and  boil  a feAV  minutes  ; lay  mutton  in  dish,  and  pour  the  rice  oA^er 
it.  For  Stewed  Loin  of  Mutton^  remove  the  skin,  bone  and  roll  it, 
and  stew  with  a little  broth  or  Avater,  adding  any  vegetables  or 
seasoning  liked.  Some  sprinkle  the  loin  with  a mixture  of  half  tea- 
spoon pepper,  quarter  teaspoon  each  ground  allspice,  mace  and  nut- 
meg and  six  cloA^es,  and  let  it  stand  a day  then  roll  ; or  it  may  be 
spread  Avith  a veal  or  other  force-meat,  then  rolled.  Some  prefer  to 
half  bake  it  in  the  oven,  then  take  out  and  finish  cooking  in  steAvnan 
in  its  oAvn  gravy.  Flavor  Avith  two  tablespoons  mushroom  catsup 
and  serve  Avith  red  currant  jelly.  Steioed  Leg  of  Mutton  is  a dish 
liked  by  many.  Procure  a tender  leg,  take  off  outside  fat  and  skin 
and  lard  leg  Avith  pieces  of  fat  pork.  Pv.t  the  leg  in  saucepan  with 
some  small  onions  and  tAVo  yelloAV  turnips,  sliced,  one  bay  leaf,  a 


506 


MEATS. 


calf’s  foot  cut  in  two,  and  a pint  good  beef  broth ; let  all  cook  to- 
gether until  gravy  will  jelly.  • In  another  saucepan  put  two  table- 
spoons beef  drippings,  brown  the  stewed  onions  and  turnips  in  this, 
thicken  with  flour,  and  add  rest  of  mutton  broth.  Put  in  a little 
vinegar  and  lemon  peel,  and  let  all  cook  well ; strain  through  a 
sieve ; cut  six  pickled  cucumbers  through  sauce  and  cook.  Put  the 
meat  in  sauce  and  cook  all  together  a few  moments.  Pour  the  gravy 
over  the  meat  and  serve  hot. 

Mutton  Chops. — The  best  chops  are  taken  from  the  loin,  but 
those  from  the  ribs  are  also  excellent.  Cuts  from  the  fillet,  the  cen- 
ter cut  of  the  hind  leg,  are  called  cutlets  or  steaks,  while  those  from 
the  shoulder  are  known  as  shoulder  steaks.  All  may  be  prepared 
and  cooked  as  follows  ; Take  off  the  skin  and  trim  them  neatly, 
removing  a part  of  the  fat,  and  broil  as  directed  in  Broiled  Meats, 
either  plainly  or  breaded.  If  on  a gridiron  or  flat  broiler  must  be 
turned  often.  The  bread-crumbs  should  be  salted  and  peppered  and 
may  be  seasoned  with  any  chopped  or  powdered  herbs  liked ; a 
sprinkling  of  grated  lemon  peel  or  powdered  mace 
gives  a flavor  liked  by  many.  Serve  with  a bit  of 
butter  on  each,  neatly  arranged  in  a circle  around 

Mutton  Chops.  ^ a mound  of  mashed  potatoes,  with  currant  jelly,  or 
mushroom,  onion  or  tomato  sauce.  Some  first  half  fry  or  stew  the 
chops,  with  any  seasoning  liked,  and  when  cool  bread  them  and 
finish  by  broiling,  either  plainly,  or  by  wrapping  them  in  buttered 
paper.  They  are  very  nice  fried  with  minced  herbs  and  mushrooms, 
then  broiled.  Serve  with  a tablespoon  red  currant  jelly,  mushroom 
catsup  or  any  suitable  sauce  on  each.  Instead  of  broiling  after 
covering  with  the  seasoning  and  bread-crumbs,  when  chops  are  first 
half  fried,  some  put  them  in  the  buttered  paper  and  finish  by  setting 
in  the  oven  in  dripping  pan  until  done. 

Mashed  Mutton  Chops. — Trim  off  all  the  fat  from  five  chops 
from  the  back  rib  and  leave  a half  inch  of  the  bone  of  each  bare  at 
the  top.  Put  in  frying-pan  and  slice  over  them  a carrot,  turnip, 
onion  and  some  celery,  sprinkling  with  pepper  and  salt.  Pour  oyer 
all  a gill  of  stock  and  cook  twenty  minutes  over  slow  fire,  turning 
the  cutlets  that  they  may  cook  through  evenly.  While  cooking,  rub 
a pint  mashed  potato  through  a sieve  and  put  in  a saucepan,  drop 
in  yolks  of  two  eggs,  and  stir  over  the  fire  until  well  mixed.  When 
chops  are  ready,  roll  each  in  potatoes  so  prepared  and  flattened  v/ith 
a knife  upon  a mixing-board  to  a quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  leaving 
the  bone  bare  as  a handle.  Place  all  upon  a lightly  greased  baking- 
tin,  brush  over  with  a little  milk  or  egg,  and  brown  in  very  quick 
oven.  While  they  are  browning,  heat  a tablespoon  butter,  and  add 
half  tablespoon  flour ; when  smooth  add  one  and  one-half  gill^  cold 
water  and  stir  all  until  boiling.  Add  half  tablespoon  each  catsup, 
Worcestershire  sauce  and  six  drops  caramel  and  cook  two  minutes. 


MEATS. 


507 


Arrange  them  in  a circle  upon  a hot  platter,  with  a pint  boiled  green 
pease  in  center,  and  strain  the  brown  sauce  around  the  whole.  In 
preparing  the  potato,  a little  flour  should  be  sprinkled  over  the 
board  to  prevent  sticking.  If  the  oven  should  not  be  hot  enough  to 
brown  the  chops  quickly^  hold  a hot  salamander  or  fire  shovel  over 
them,  as  leaving  them  long  in  the  oven  dries  out  the  potatoes  and  so 
spoils  the  dish. 

Mxdton  Hl  t-pot — Peel  about  two  pounds  potatoes,  put  in  cold 
water  and  bring  to  boiling  point,  then  take  out  and  slice  enough  to 
cover  bottom  of  good-sized  vegetable  dish ; cut  one  and  a half 
pounds  lean  mutton  into  small  pieces  and  roll  each  in  a mixture  of 
flour,  pepper,  salt  and  nutmeg,  and  put  in  dish  in  layers  alternating 
with  layers  of  potato  until  level  with  top  of  dish.  Cut  the  potatoes 
left  whole  into  halves  and  place  over  top,  round  sides  up  and  brush 
over  with  melted  butter,  Pour  a tablespoon  catsup,  and  half  pint 
cold  water  in  at  side  of  dish  and  bake  in  moderate  oven  an  hour  and 
a half. 

Mutton  Pie. — Cut  two  pounds  boned  neck  or  loin  of  mutton 
into  steaks  of  same  thickness,  leaving  very  little  fat,  cut  up  two  kid- 
neys and  arrange  neatly  with  meat  in  pie  dish ; sprinkle  two  table- 
spoons chopped  parsley  over  with  pepper  and  salt ; pour  in  two 
cups  stock,  or  water,  and  cover  with  a puff  paste.  Bake  an  hour  and 
a half,  or  longer  should  the  pie  be  very  large,  in  rather  hot  oven. 
Ahother : Cut  off  two  pounds  from  the  leg  and  chop  fine,  first  re- 
moving fat  and  skin ; add  a slice  or  two  of  raw  bacon  or  salt  pork, 
chopped,  season  all  well  with  pepper  and  salt  and  put  in  saucepan 
with  a cup  gravy  and  six  ounces  butter ; add  three  or  four  tender 
lettuce  leaves  cut  small,  a quart  green  pease,  and  an  onion,  chopped 
fine.  Stir  all  over  gentle  fire  until  hot,  then  cover  with  good  paste 
and  bake  slowly.  Or  leave  off  the  paste  and  it  may  be  cooked  as  a 
stew  and  served  in  walls  of  mashed  potato.  Yeal  Pie  made  same 
way.  Or  season  mutton  chops  (those  from  the  neck  are  best)  high- 
ly with  pepper  and  salt,  and  place  in  a dish  in  layers,  with  plenty  of 
sliced  apples,  sweetened,  and  chopped  onions ; cover  with  a good 
suet  paste,  and  bake.  When  done  pour  out  ail  the  gravy  at  the  side, 
take  off  the  fat,  add  a spoonful  mushroom  catsup,  then  return 
gravy  to  pie.  For  a Mutton  Pudding^  cut  about  two  pounds  of  the 
chump  end  of  loin  of  mutton  into  rather  thin  slices,  and  season  with 
pepper  and  salt ; line  the  pudding-dish  with  paste  ; lay  in  the  meat, 
and  nearly,  but  not  quite,  fill  up  with  water;  if  the  flavor  is  liked, 
add  a little  minced  onion  ; cover  with  paste,  and  bake  as  the  pie.  Or 
season  mutton  steaks  with  salt,  pepper  and  a bit  of  onion ; put  one 
layer  of  steak  in  the  bottom  of  dish  and  pour  a batter  of  potatoes, 
boiled,  put  through  a colander  and  mixed  with  milk  and  egg,  over 
them.  Sprinkle  bits  of  butter  over  the  top  and  bake. 


608 


MEATS. 


Mutton  Rissoles. — Take  three  or  four  small  slices  of  mutton  and 
one  of  rather  lean  bacon,  a tablespoon  chopped  onion,  teaspoon 
chopped  parsley,  one-quarter  as  much  thyme,  cayenne  pepper  and 
salt.  Chop  all  togetiier  very  fine  or  pass  through  a sausage  ma- 
chine, and  roll  into  balls  the  size  of  walnuts ; dip  each  into  beaten 
egg,  then  in  bread-crumbs  (not  cracker  dust)  and  fry  a golden  brown 
in  hot  fat.  Pour  over  them  a gravy  made  of  stock  thickened  with 
browned  flour,  seasoned  with  pepper  and  salt  and  a teaspbon  mush- 
room catsup. 

Mutton  Scallops. — Minc^^  dressed  mutton  with  a very  little  fat, 
season  lightly  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  put  into  scallop-shells  about 
half  full.  Fill  up  with  potatoes,  mashed  with  a little  milk  and  a 
very  little  butter ; smooth  vrith  a,  spoon,  and  brown  in  oven. 

Mutton  au  Court  Bouillon.  Procure  a neatly  trimmed  leg  of 
mutton  and  put  in  stewpan  with  boiling  water  to  cover.  Tie  in  a 
cloth  an  onion,  a turnip,  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  four  or  five  cloves 
and  some  whole  allspice,  and  put  in  with  mutton.  Let  boil  up,  skim 
carefully,  cover  and  place  where  it  will  simmer  three  hours.  Then 
stir  in  three  tablespoons  flour,  mixed  smooth  in  cup  cold  water,  add 
tablespoon  salt  and  pinch  of  cayenne  and  cook  an  hour  longer. 
Meantime  make  a pint  and  a half  veal  or  mutton  force-meat,  shape 
into  small  balls  and  fry  brown,  and  boil  six  eggs  hard.  When  mut- 
ton is  done  take  it  up,  skim  fat  from  gravy  and  remove  bag  of 
seasoning.  Set  stewpan  where  it  will  boil  and  prepare  thickening 
by  stirring  two  tablespoons  flour  into  two  tablespoons  butter  made 
hot  in  fryins-pan  ; cook  until  dark  brown,  but  do  not  scorch,  and  stir 
into  the  boiling  liquid  in  stew-pan  ; add  more  seasoning  if  liked. 
Chop  whites  and  yolks  of  eggs  separately  ; pour  gravy  over  the  lamb 
and  garnish  with  the  chopped  eggs,  putting  the  whites  in  a little 
mound,  topping  them  with  some  of  the  ^mlks,  placing  remainder  of 
yolks  over  the  lamb  ; arrange  the  meat  balls  in  groups  around  the 
dish,  decorate  with  parsley  and  serve.  Leg  of  Lamb  may  be  pre- 
pared same. 

Mutton  cm  Gratin. — Take  a breast  of  mutton,  cut  off  the  chine- 
bone  down  to  gristle  ; put  in  a stock  pot  or  kettle  with  a little  hot 
water  and  boil  until  tender,  then  take  up  to  cool ; have  ready  some 
beaten  eggs  with  a little  butter  and  chopped  mushrooms  added  and 
put  all  over  the  breast  with  pastry  brush,  then  place  in  oven  to  brown. 
Serve  with  red  currant  jelly.  A nice  dish  from  breast  of  mutton  is 
called  Stviss  Chops.  Boil  as  above  with  two  cloves  stuck  in  a small 
onion,  slices  of  carrot  and  turnip  if  liked  and  a bunch  sweet  herbs  ; 
when  tender  enough  to  permit  the  bones  to  be  drawn  out  easily,  take 
up,  lay  on  a pan,  put  another,  containing  weights,  on  it,  and  press 
until  cold:  then  cut  in  eight  triangular  pieces,  about  the  size  of 
small  chop ; season  with  salt  and  pepper,  double-brCad  them,  and 


MEATS. 


509 


loToil  quickly  or  fry  light  brown  in  enough  smoking  hot  fat  to  cover, 
and  serve  with  a piquant  sauce  poured  over. 


Leg  of  Mutton  and  Beans. 


Mutton  a la  Yenison. — Remove  all  rough  fat  from  a leg  of  mut- 
ton, lay  in  a deep  earthen  dish,  and  rub  into  meat  very  thoroughly 
the  following  mixture  : One  tablespoon  salt,  one  each  of  celery  seed^ 
brown  sugar,  black  pepper,  made  mustard,  allspice,  and  sweet  herbs 
mixed  and  powdered.  After  these  have  been  rubbed  into  all  parts 
of  meat,  pour  over  it  slowly  a teacup 
good,  vinegar,  cover  tightly  and  set 
in  a cool  place  for  four  or  five  days, 
turning  and  basting  with  liquid  three 
or  four  times  a day.  To  cook,  place 
in  a clean  kettle  a quart  boiling  wa- 
ter, in  which  have  an  inverted  tin 
pan  or  rack  made  for  the  purpose ; on  it  lay  the  meat  just  as  taken 
out  of  the  pickle  ; cover  kettle  tightly,  and  stew  four  hours.  Do  not 
allow  water  to  touch  the  meat.  Add  a cup  hot  water  to  the  pickle, 
and  baste  the  meat  with  it.  When  ready  to  serve,  thicken  the  liquid 
in  the  kettle  with  flour,  strain  through  a fine  strainer,  and  serve  the 
meat  with  it  upon  a bed  of  cooked  beans,  with  a relish  of  currant 
jelly.  Or  do  not  place  in  pickle,  but  cook  fresh  as  a Pot-roast  of 
SDeef,  adding  a bay-leaf,  cloves,  pepper  and  salt,  and  some  add  an 
onion,  sticking  the  cloves  in  it.  Or  for  Italian  Steah^  let  the  fresh 
leg  hang  several  days,  then  cut  in  slices,  season  all  with  pepper  and 
salt,  and  fry  in  browned  butter  in  saucepan,  sprinkling  over  a little 
mace  ; dust  in  a little  flour  and  stir  in  a half  cup  currant  jelly ; stir 
until  jelly  is  melted,  boil  up  once  and  serve.  Another  way  of  cook- 
ing leg  of  mutton  cut  in  slices  is  called  Mutton  Birds.  Spread  a 
lightly  seasoned  force-meat  over  the  slices,  roll  up  and  fasten  v/ith 
skewers  and  brown  in  hot  beef  drippings ; then  put  in  stewpan,  cov- 
er with  water  and  stew  until  tender,  serving  with  a gravy  poured 
over  made  by  thickening  the  liquor  with  browned  flour,  flavoring 
with  two  tablespoons  tomato  catsup. 


Fillet  of  Mutton. — Choose  a very  large  leg ; cut  from  four  to 
five  inches  in  thickness  from  large  end  of  leg;  take  out  bone,  and 
in  its  place  put  a highly  seasoned  force-meat;  roast  two  hours,  dredg- 
ing and  basting  last  half  hour  as  in  Roast  Beef.  When  done  it  may 
be  sent  to  table  with  a dish  of  broiled  bacon  or  ham,  and  fresh  cu- 
cumbers if  in  season,  with  melted  butter  poured  over  it,  or  a rich 
brown  gravy  and  red  currant  jelly.  For  a Stewed  Fillet  of  Mutton^ 
prepare  and  stuff  as  above,  flour  and  brown  in  a little  butter,  and 
put  into  a stewpan  with  a pint  and  a half  gravy,  a small  bunch 
sweet  herbs,  two  or  three  small  onions,  a teaspoon  whole  black  pep- 
per, and  salt  to  taste.  Stew  slowly  three  hours  and  a half.  Or  the 
fillet  may  be  roasted  and  then  stewed  with  its  trimmings. 


m 


MEATS. 


Ragout  of  Mutton. — Cut  three  pounds  of  any  cheap  parts  of 
mutton  in  small  pieces  put  three  tablespoons  each  butter  and  flour 
into  a stewpan  and  when  hot  and  smooth  stir  in  the  meat  and  keep 
stirring  until  a rich  brown  ; add  a quart  water  and  a bunch  sweet 
herbs  and  set  where  it  will  cook  slowly.  Then  fry  a large  tur- 
nip, cut  into  cubes,  and  twelve  button  onions,  or  one  of  common 
size  chopped,  in  three  tablespoons  hot  butter  with  a tablespoon 
dour.  When  a nice  brown,  drain  and  put  with  the  meat.  Cook  an 
hour  and  a half.  Some  like  the  flavor  of  three  or  four  cloves  and  a 
clove  of  garlic  put  in  with  the  herb.  Small  cubes  ot  potato  may  be 
added  half  an  hour  before  meat  is  done.  Garnish  with  rice,  toasted 
hread^  plain  boiled  macaroni  or  mashed  potatoes.  Serve  very  hot. 
Ragout  of  Veac  prepared  same,  but  requires  cooking  an  hour  longer, 
and  more  butter  A nice  addition  to  the  ragout  is  rich  puff*  paste 
rolled  a quarter  of  an  inch  thick  and  baked  in  diamond  shapes  an 
inch  long  and  half  an  inch  wide.  Put  them  in  five  minutes  before 
ragout  is  dislied. 

Boiled  Pork. — The  shoulder  and  leg  ends  are  most  used  for 
boiling,  and  may  be  cooked  as  directed  in  Boiled  Meats.  Carrots, 
turnips  or  parsnips  may  be  boiled  with  the  pork,  or  separately  and 
served  as  a garnish ; or  serve  the  meat  in  a border  of  boiled  cabbage. 
Skin  the  leg  before  serving.  Pease  Pudding  is  considered  by  many 
an  indispensable  accompaniment  to  boiled  pork.  Wash  a quart 
dry  pease,  soak  in  cold  v/ater  two  hours  and  boil  in  a bag  with  the 
pork ; when  done  put  them  through  a colander,  add  a large  lump 
butter,  salt  and  two  yolks  of  egg ; put  back  into  bag  and  boil  again 
half  an  hour  and  serve  with  the  pork.  Some  prefer  to  boil  the  leg 
in  a floured  cloth.  If  the  joint  is  large,  allow  a quarter  of  an  hour’s 
cooking  to  each  pound  from  the  time  it  boils  and  twenty  minutes 
additional. 

Roast  Pork. — The  choicest  roasting  piece  is  the  loin,  between 
the  hind  legs  and  ribs ; next  come  the  upper  rib  cuts,  then  spare- 
ribs,  or  ribs  next  shoulder.  If  a nice  spare-rib  roast  is  wanted  it 
should  be  ordered  with  all  the  meat  left  on  which  is  usually  cut  off 
for  steaks.  For  a plain  roast  follow  directions  for  Roasted  Meats, 
roasting  slowly  at  first,  and  allow  fully  half  an  hour  to  the  pound, 
as  pork  must  be  well  done.  Serve  with  a gravy  made  in  baking  pan 
after  pouring  off  top  of  drippings.  Fried  apples  are  nice  with  roast 
pork,  or  any  tart  sauce,  and  turnips  or  fried  cabbage  are  excellent 
accompaniments.  For  a very  nice  Roast  Loin  of  Pork.,  choose  a 
small  loin,  separate  each  joint  with  a chopper  and  make  an  incision 
with  a knife  in  the  thick  part  into  which  put  a stuffing  made  by 
mixing  three  tablespoons  bread-crumbs  with  a finely  chopped  onion, 
halfteaspoopoon  chopped  sage,  pepper,  salt,  and  tablespoon  chopped 
suet  or  drippings  ; when  thoroughly  mixed,  press  into  the  incision  and 
sew  edges  of  the  meat  together  with  needle  and  thread,  to  confine  the 


MEATS. 


511 


stuffing.  Grease  a sheet  of  kitchen  paper  well  with  drippings,  place 
the  loin  in  this,  securing  it  with  a wrapping  of  twine,  and  put  to 
bake  in  a dry  baking  pan,  in  a brisk  oven,  basting  immediately  and 
constantly  as  the  fat  is  drawn  out.  Allow  twenty  minutes  to  the 
pound  and  twenty  minutes  longer.  Serve  with  apple  sauce  or  apple- 
fritters.  It  is  not  necessary  to  put  in  greased  paper,  but  the  skin  if 
left  on  should  be  scored  across  one  way  at  regular  intervals  or  each 
wa}^  in  small  squares.  Instead  of  opening  and  stuffing  the  loin  the 
dressing  may  be  baked  separately  or  put  in  the  pan  with  the  pork  a 
half  hour  before  done.  Some  rub  the  loin  over  with  salad  oil  or 
butter  to  make  it  brown  and  crisp  without  blistering,  before  putting 
in  oven.  Always  serve  with  it  a gravy  made  in  pan,  and  any  other 
sauce  or  accompaniments  liked.  Or  the  loin  may  be  steamed  or 
boiled  until  nearly  done;  then  remove  skin,  coat  well  with  yolk  of 
egg  and  bread-crumbs  and  put  in  oven  for  about  fifteen  minutes  or 
until  nicely  browned  and  thoroughly  done.  Roast  Tenderloin  is 
cooked  and  served  the  same.  Roast  Leg  of  Pork  may  be  prepared 

md  served  same  as  loin,  making  the 
incision  for  the  dressing  just  below 
the  knuckle.  Or  first  parboil  the  leg 
and  take  off  skin.  Make  a stuffing 
of  two  tablespoons  finely  minced 
onion,  half  a chopped  apple,  eight 
tablespoons  bread-crumbs,  half  a 
dozen  chopped  sage  leaves,  tablespoon  butter,  and  a little  pepper 
and  salt ; bind  all  together  with  yolk  of  an  egg ; make  a slit  in  the 
knuckle,  put  the  stuffing  into  it,  and  sew  ; put  in  the  oven  and  baste 
often.  Half  an  hour  before  taken  up,  sprinkle  over  a savory  powder 
made  of  two  tablespoons  bread-crumbs  mixed  with  one  tablespoon 
powdered  sage,  and  a little  pepper  and  salt.  Do  not  baste  the  meat 
after  the  powder  is  put  on.  Serve  with  good  brown  gravy  and  apple 
sauce.  Almost  equal  to  roast  goose.  For  Roast  Spare-rih,  trim  off 
the  rough  ends  neatly,  crack  the  ribs  across  the  middle,  rub  with 
salt  and  sprinkle  with  pepper,  fold  over,  stuff  with  either  of  the  above 
dressings,  sew  up  tightly,  place  in  dripping-pan  with  pint  of  water, 
and  baste  frequently,  turning  over  once  so  as  to  bake  both  sides 
equally  until  a rich  brovrn.  Some  -dredge  with  flour  and  powdered 
sage  when  basting,  and  spare-rib  is  as  often  roasted  without  the 
dressing  as  with  it.  Serve  with  apple  sauce,  mashed  potatoes  and 
greens,  or  other  vegetables.  Potatoes  are  often  peeled* and  baked  in 
the  pan  with  the  pork.  Or  steam  or  boil  the  ribs  until  nearly  done  ; 
then  take  up,  lay  in  dripping-pan  with  inside  of  ribs  up  and  fill  with 
either  dressing  given  above,  making  very  moist — as  soft  as  for  bread 
pudding ; bake  half  an  hour.  The  griskin  or  back  piece  is  some- 
times roasted,  and  as  it  is  apt  to  be  dry  it  is  well  to  flour  it  when 
put  in  the  oven  and  dredge  with  flour  at  every  basting  to  keep  in 
the  juices.  Sprinkle  powdered  sage  over  before  taking  up.  The 


MEATS. 


orz 


tieck  of  pork  is  very  excellent  roasted  if  first  thoroughly  cleaned  and 
filled  with  either  of  the  stuffings  already  given.  Bake  peeled  pota- 
toes in  pan  and  serve  on  platter  round  the  pork.  When  to  be  baked 
and  served  thus  the  potatoes  should  be  of  uniform  size  and  shaped 
as  round  and  smooth  as  possible  when  peeled. 

Stewed  PorTt.—Th^  shoulder,  loin  or  spare-rib  are  sometimes 
stewed,  though  the  back  and  neck  pieces  and  other  inferior  parts 
are  more  often  cooked  thus  : Rub  the  joint  with  pepper  and  salt, 
and  put  into  a large  saucepan  with  a closely-fitting  lid.  Boil  an 
hour  or  two  and  add  two  or  three  onions  and  carrots,  with  half  a 
dozen  celery  stalks,  four  sage  leaves,  bunch  of  parsley,  small  sprig 
majoram  and  thyme,  and  stock  or  water  to  cover.  Boil  up  and  skim 
carefully ; then  set  back  and  simmer  gently  for  three  or  four  hours, 
according  to  size  of  joint.  Serve  garnished  with  the  vegetables, 
strain  and  thicken  a portion  of  the  gravy,  and  pour  it  boiling  hot 
over  the  meat.  When  removed  from  the  table,  trim  the  joint  neatly 
and  place  on  a clean  dish  to  be  eaten  cold,  or  thicken  the  rest  of  the 
gravy  and  pour  over  the  meat  to  be  warmed  over.  Some  like  a stew 
with  sweet  potatoes,  seasoning  only  with  salt  and  pepper.  The  pota- 
toes  may  be  peeled  or  not  as  preferred,  and  put  in  with  the  pork 
long  enough  before  it  is  done  to  cook  them  thoroughly.  Serve  on 
same  platter  round  the  meat. 

Porh  Chops. — Chops  are  cut  from  the  loin  and  ribs,  the  cuts 
from  the  leg  and  shoulder  being  known  as  steaks.  For  Broiled 
Pork  Chops.,  broil  as  directed  in  Broiled  Meats,  cooking  until  thor- 
oughly well  done  and  serve  plainly,  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper, 
or  with  tomato  or  any  sauce  preferred.  Roibert  Sauce  is  nice  with 
pork  chops  as  well  as  beefsteak.  For  this  fry  three  tablespoons 
chopped  onion  a pale  yellow  in  one  tablespoon  butter,  add  two  table- 
spoons spiced  vinegar,  and  reduce  one  half  by  quick  boiling ; add 
half  pint  brown  gravy,  and  boil  slowly  fifteen  minutes  : season  with 
saltspoon  salt,  quarter  saltspoon  pepper,  two  teaspoons  French  mus- 
lard,  and  serve  poured  over  the  chops,  dished  in  a circle.  Or  first 
single-bread  the  chops,  or  roll  in  melted  butter  and  bread-crumbs, 
seasoned  with  sage,  broil  and  serve  as  above.  Or  they  m^^  be 
dished  round  a center  of  boiled  rice  or  mashed  potato.  Pried  Chops 
are  cooked  in  hot  frying  pan  until  nicely  browned  and  thoroughly 
done  ^n  both  sides.  Then  serve  like  broiled  chops,  or  add  a little  hot 
water  to  the  gravy  in  the  pan,  a tablespoon  butter  rolled  in  flour, 
])epper,  salt,  sugar  and  half  cup  juice  from  canned  tomatoes  ; stew 
five  minutes  and  pour  over  the  chops.  Or  simply  sprinkle  over  them 
a little  finely  minced  onion,  powdered  sage  and  pepper  and  salt. 
Or  melt  two  ounces  butter  in  saucepan,  and  stir  into  it  a teaspoon 
each  chopped  parsley,  sage  and  shallot ; fry  a few  minutes,  add  a 
little  salt  and  pepper,  and  two  well-beaten  eggs.  Dip  chops  first 
into  this,  then  in  sifted  bread-crumbs,  let  stand  ten  minutes,  fry  in 


MEATS. 


513 


little  melted  butter  and  serve  with  a brown  gravy  poured  over.  F or 
Pork  Chops  with  Apples^  put  in  frying-pan,  scatter  a little  sage  and 
pepper  and  salt  over ; cook  thoroughly ; if  fat  enough,  so  that  there 
is  plenty  of  gravy,  fry  sliced  apples  in  that ; if  not,  add  a lump  but- 
ter, brown  the  apples,  and  serve  over  the  pork.  Some  marinade 
chops  four  hours  in  oil  with  an  onion  in  slices,  parsley,  bay-leaf, 
pepper  and  salt  and  fry  in  the  marinade,  serving  with  tomato  sauce. 
This  is  a delicious  breakfast  dish. 

Pork  Pie. — Line  sides  of  deep  pie  dish  with  a good  but  not 
very  rich  paste ; put  alternate  layers  of  thinly  sliced  bacon  and 
potatoes,  onions  chopped  or  sliced  very  fine  and  lean  fresh  pork  cut 
into  small  pieces.  Season  with  pepper,  salt  and  sage.  Fill  the  dish 
with  any  good  gravy  left  from  roasts,  or  with  water  thickened  with 
a little  flour,  and  add  little  butter.  Cover  with  crust,  and  bake  about 
an  hour  and  a half.  Cover  with  thick  paper  if  in  danger  of  brown- 
ing too  much.  Or  line  a deep  dish  with  paste  as  for  chicken  pie, 
put  in  a layer  of  sliced  sour  apples,  season  with  sugar  and  spice ; add 
a layer  of  fresh,  rather  lean  pork,  sliced  thin,  seasoned  with  salt  and 
pepper ; and,thus  place  alternate  layers  of  apple  and  pork  until  dish 
is  nearly  full ; put  in  a little  water  and  cover  with  paste ; bake  slowly 
until  thoroughly  done. 

Pork  Pudding. — One  cup  finely  chopped  sah  pork,  two  cups 
each  brown  sugar  and  sweet  milk,  two  teaspoons  baking  powder, 
four  cups  flour,  two  cups  raisins,  teaspoon  each  cloves  and  cinna- 
mon, half  teaspoon  ginger,  half  a grated  nutmeg.  Put  in  buttered 
mold  and  steam  or  boil  four  hours.  Serve  with  sour  sauce.  This 
makes  a large  pudding,  but  will  keep  a week,  and  put  in  steamer  and 
reheated  is  as  good  as  when  fresh. 

Pork  Roll. — Take  a piece  of  side  pork,  fat  and  lean  together, 
spread  any  seasoning  of  powdered  herbs  or  spices  liked  over  it,  roll 
up  tightly  and  fasten  by  winding  a cloth  around  it  to  prevent  the 
edges  from  curling  up ; boil  until  tender,  take  from  liquor  and  set 
away  to  cool.  Serve  in  nice  slices  for  luncheon  or  tea. 

Pork  Steaks. — The  cuts  from  the  leg  and  shoulder  are  called 
tL  teaks  and  are  broiled  or  fried  as  beefsteaks  ; sprinkle  with  powder- 
ed sage  before  serving,  if  liked,  and  send  fried  apples  on  with  them, 
or  any  sauce  preferred.  Always  cook  well  done. 

Pork  Tenderloin. — Split  open  and  broil  till  very  brown  and 
vvell  done ; season  with  pepper,  salt  and  powdered  sage.  Or  split  in 
half,  but  do  not  separate  entirely ; fill  with  well  seasoned  oysters, 
sew  up,  and  broil  thoroughly.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper  before 
serving.  Or  split  the  tenderloin  and  fry  in  frying-pan  in  little  but- 
ter ; mix  some  chopped  pickles  with  the  gravy  and  pour  it  over 
them.  oo 


514 


MEATS. 


Pork  and  Beans. — Pick  over  carfully  a quart  of  beans  and  let 
them  soak  overnight ; in  the  morning  wash  in  another  water  and 
drain,  put  on  to  boil  in  cold  water  with  a half  teaspoon  soda ; boil 
about  thirty  minutes  (when  done  the  skin  of  a bean  will  crack  if 
taken  out  and  blown  upon),  drain  and  put  in  an  earthen  pot  first  a 
slice  of  pork  and  then  the  beans,  with  two  or  three  tablespoons  mo- 
lasses ; put  in  the  center  half  or  three-fourths  pound  well-washed 
salt  pork  with  the  rind  uppermost,  scored  in  slices  or  squares ; sea- 
son with  pepper  and  salt  if  needed ; cover  all  with  hot  water  and 
bake  six  hours  or  longer  in  a moderate  oven,  adding  hot  water  as 
needed,  but  do  not  stir  them ; they  cannot  be  baked  too  long.  Keep 
covered  so  that  they  will  not  burn  on  the  top,  but  remove  cover  an 
hour  or  two  before  serving,  to  brown  the  top  and  crisp  the  pork. 
This  is  the  real  Boston  Baked  Beans,  a favorite  New  England  dish 
for  Sunday  breakfast.  The  beans  are  always  baked  the  day  before, 
allowed  to  remain  in  the  oven  all  night,  and  browned  in  the  morn- 
ing. Serve  in  the  dish  in  which  they  are  cooked,  and  always  have 
enough  left  to  know  the  luxury  of  cold  beans,  or  baked  beans  warm- 
ed over.  If  salt  pork  is  too  robust  for  the  appetites  to  be  served, 
season  delicately  with  salt,  pepper,  and  a little  butter,  and  roast  a. 
fresh  spare-rib  to  serve  with  them.  Some  put  the  beans  to  soak  iiA 
milk-warm  water  and  parboil  the  pork  an  hour  before  putting  in  the 
beans,  first  scalding  and  scraping  the  nnd  ; when  the  beans  have 
boiled  up  once  pour  off  the  water  and  add  fresh  ; a sliced  onion  mar 
be  boiled  with  them  if  liked  ; boil  until  beans  are  quite  tender,  add 
ing  more  water  if  necessary  to  prevent  scorch- 
ing ; put  in  baking  dish  with  tablespoon  mo- 
lasses, score  the  pork  and  sink  it  in  center, 
add  a little  water  in  which  beans  were  boiled 
and  brown  in  oven  one  hour.  Corned  beef  may 
be  used  instead  of  pork.  This  is  a very  ex- 
cellent dish,  but  not  so  nice  as  the  baked 
beans.  The  cut  represents  the  old-fashioned 
Dutch  oven,  an  iron  kettle  with  a heav}^  tight- 
fitting  iron  lid.  The  oven  is  lowered  into  the  ground  level  with  the 
top  and  the  lid  covered  with  live  coals.  There  is  no  oven  which  bakes 
pork  and  beans  and  imparts  the  same  delicious  flavor.  It  is  also  nice 
for  baking  brown  or  corn  bread,  and  may  be  placed  in  the  stove  in- 
stead of  the  ground. 

Spare-rib  Pot-pie — Cut  spare-ribs  once  across  and  then  in  strips 
three  or  four  inches  wide ; put  in  kettle  with  hot  water  to  cover, 
stew  till  tender,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  turn  out  of  kettle  : 
replace  a layer  of  spare-ribs  in  bottom,  add  a layer  of  peeled  pota- 
toes (quartered  if  large),  some  bits  of  butter,  small  squares  of  bak- 
ing-powder dough  rolled  quite  thin ; season  again,  put  in  another 
layer  of  spare-ribs,  and  so  on  until  kettle  is  two-thirds  full,  leaving 
the  squares  of  crust  for  last  layer ; then  add  the  liquor  in  which 


Dutch  Oven. 


MEATS. 


515 


SDare-ribs  M^ere  boiled,  and  hot  water  if  needed,  cover,  and  boil  half 
to  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  being  careful  not  to  boil  dry,  adding 
hot  water  if  necessary.  The  crust  can  be  made  of  light  biscuit 
dough,  without  egg  or  sugar,  as  follows : Roll  thin,  cut  out,  let 
rise,  and  use  for  the  pie,  having  plenty  of  water  in  the  kettle,  so  that 
when  the  pie  is  made  and  the  cover  on,  it  need  not  be  removed  until 
dished.  If  after  taking  up,  there  is  not  sufficient  gravy,  add  hot 
water  and  flour  and  butter  rubbed  together ; season  to  taste,  and 
serve.  To  warm  over  pot-pie,  set  it  in  a dripping-pan  in  the  oven, 
add  lumps  of  butter  with  gravy  or  hot  water,  and  more  squares  of 
dough  may  be  laid  on  top. 

Fricatelli. — Chop  raw  fresh  pork  very  fine,  add  a little  salt, 
plenty  of  pepper,  and  two  small  onions  chopped  fine,  half  as  much 
bread  as  there  is  meat,  soaked  until  soft,  two  eggs ; mix  well  to- 
gether, make  into  oblong  patties,  and  fry  like  oysters.  Nice  for 
breakfast ; if  used  for  supper,  serve  with  sliced  lemon.  Sausage 
meat  may  be  used  instead  of  the  fresh  pork. 

To  Keep  Fresh  Pork. — Roast  the  pieces  to  be  kept,  all  ready 
for  the  table  ; then  put  them  away  in  lard.  All  that  is  necessary  is 
to  heat  through  when  wanted,  and  the  lard  is  just  as  good  as  any  for 
frying  doughnuts  or  mush. 

Roast  Pig. — The  pig  to  be  eaten  in  perfection,  should  not  be 
more  than  three  or  four  weeks  old,  and  should  be  cooked  the  same 
day  it  is  killed.  If  ordered  from  the  butcher  it  will  need  only  wash- 
ing and  drying ; if  killed  at  home,  lay  in  cold  water  immediately  for 
a few  minutes,  then  immerse  a few  minutes  in  boiling  hot  water  and 
scrape  well ; remove  the  eyes  and  tongue,  trim  the  ears,  cut  off  the 
feet,  and  clean  it  thoroughly.  Wash  and  dry  it  with  a clean  cloth ; 
rub  it  well,  inside  and  outside,  with  sage  and  seasoning  of  ‘^alt  and 
cayenne  pepper.  For  the  stuffing  make  a Liver  Force-meat  as  fol- 
lows : Slice  part  of  the  pig’s  liver  and  fry  brown  in  two  tablespoons 
butter ; chop  fine,  then  return  to  frying-pan  with  a chopped  onion 
and  tablespoon  chopped  parsley,  add  another  tablespoon  butter  and 
fry  till  onion  is  brown.  Soak  enough  bread  to  fill  the  pig  in  cold 
water  and  when  soft  squeeze  dry  as  possible  and  put  in  frying-pan 
with  other  ingredients ; add  tablespoon  each  powdered  sage,  thyme, 
marjoram  and  salt  and  teaspoon  pepper.  Stir  all  over  fire  until 
scalding  hot,  then  add  cup  boiling  milk  and  yolks  of  two  raw  eggs. 
When  the  pig  is  stuffed  sew  it  up,  skewer  the  fore  legs  under  the 
head,  and  the  hind  legs  under  the  hams ; tie  up  the  ears  and  tail  in 
buttered  paper  to  prevent  burning,  and  lay  the  pig  in  a dripping-pan 
on  abed  of  vegetables,  and  brush  the  pig  all  over  with  melted  butter 
or  good  salad  oil,  and  put  into  a hot  oven ; baste  every  fifteen  min- 
utes with  melted  butter  or  oil,  using  apastry  brush  if  possible.  Leave 
a medium-sized  pig  in  oven  two  and  a half  or  three  hours.  While 
the  pig  is  being  baked,  prepare  the  heart,  lights  and  spleen  for  the 


516 


MEATS. 


gravy  by  boiling  tender  in  enough  water  to  cover^  then  chop  fine, 
and  keep  hot  in  same  water.  When  pig  is  done,  take  it  up,  skim  the 
vegetables  out  of  the  pan,  rub  them  through  a sieve  with  a pota  to - 
masher,  and  put  them  again  into  the  dripping-pan  without  washing 
it,  with  the  chopped  mixture,  and  enough  more  water  to  make  a 
thick  gravy ; season  highly  with  salt,  pepper  and  powdered  sage  ; 
boil  two  minutes  and  serve  with  the  pig.  For  the  Apple  Sauce  to 
be  served  with  the  dish,  wash  eight  large  sound  apples,  cut  through 
the  middle  cross-wise,  remove  cores  and  bake  till  tender.  Meantime 
stew  eight  peeled  and  sliced  apples  in  little  water  till  tender  with 
two  tablespoons  sugar  and  grated  lemon  rind,  and  pulp  through  a 
sieve ; fill  the  baked  apples  with  this  and  set  around  the  pig  on  - 
platter  as  a garnish.  Serve  the  pig  whole,  with  an  apple  or  small 
ear  of  corn  in  its  mouth,  which  may  be  kept  open  while  baking  by 
inserting  a piece  of  wood.  It  is,  however,  sometimes  served  split 
in  half,  the  two  halves  placed  back  to  back  on  platter  with  half  of 
head  on  each  end,  and  an  ear  on  each  side.  Some  also  like  the 
brains  chopped  and  mixed  with  the  stuffing,  and  the  tongue  and 
feet  cooked  with  the  heart,  etc.,  for  the  gravy.  If  a Potato  StuMng 
is  liked  boil  twenty  good  sized  potatoes,  mash  while  hot,  add  butter, 
a little  milk,  and  two  minced  onions  and  minced  sweet  herbs,  with 
seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper,  and  bread-crumbs,  and  stuff  the  pig 
with  it.  Or  fill  with  a Veal  Force-meat,  if  preferred.  Another  way 
of  preparing  is  after  the  pig  is  dressed  to  score  it  in  squares,  and  rub 
butter,  lard  or  salad  oil  all  over  it ; make  a dressing  of  two  quarts 
corn  meal,  salted  as  if  for  bread,  mix  to  a stiff  dough  with  boiling 
water,  put  into  pans  and  bake.  When  baked  brown,  break  it  up, 
and  add  one-fourth  pound  butter,  pepper  to  taste,  and  thyme.  Fill 
the  pig  till  plump,  sew  it  up,  and  place  it  on  its  knees  in  the  pan, 
which  fill  with  as  much  water  as  will  cook  it.  Baste  very  frequently 
with  the  gravy,  to  which  two  red  pepper  pods  should  be  added.  Turn 
while  baking  same  as  turkey,  and  continue  to  baste  till  done.  Gar- 
nish with  celery  and  parsley  tops  and  serve  with  apple  sauce. 

Pig^s  Feet. — Take  the  fore  feet,  cut  off  the  hocks,  clean  and 
scrape  them  well ; place  two  feet  together  and  roll  them  up  tightly 
in  common  muslin  ; tie  or  sew  them  so  that  they  will  keep  in  perfect 
shape,  and  boil  them  seven  hours  on  a moderate  fire — they  will  then 
be  very  soft ; lift  out  carefully  and  let  cool ; then  remove  the  muslin 
and  they  will  be  found  like  jelly.  Serve  with  vinegar,  or  split  and 
roll  in  bread-crumbs  or  cracker  dust,  and  fry  or  broil  them.  Serve 
with  a little  tart  sauce.  Leave  them  in  the  cloths  until  ready  to 
chop.  Some  boil  them  only  till  tender,  not  wrapping  in  cloth,  then 
split  in  halves,  take  out  all  large  bones  and  fry  or  broil.  Or  put  the 
feet  into  a stewpan  with  the  liver,  heart,  a thin  slice  of  bacon,  an 
onion,  blade  of  mace,  six  pepper-corns,  three  or  four  sprigs  thyme, 
pint  gravy,  pepper  and  salt  to  taste,  and  simmer  gently  fifteen  min- 
utes ; then  take  out  head  and  liver,  and  mince  very  fine ; stew  the 


MEATS. 


517 


feet  till  quite  tender,  which  will  he  in  from  twenty  minutes  to  half 
an  hour,  reckoning  from  the  time  they  boiled  up  first;  then  put 
back  the  minced  liver,  thicken  the  gravy  with  a little  butter  and 
flour,  season  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  simmer  over  gentle  fire  five 
minutes,  stirring  occasionally.  Dish  the  mince  and  split  feet,  and  ar- 
range in  a circle  alternately  with  croutons  of  toasted  bread,  and 
pour  gravy  in  the  middle. 

Pig’s- feet  Souse. — Cut  off  horny  parts  of  feet  and  toes,  scrape, 
clean,  and  wash  thoroughly,  singe  off  stray  hairs,  place  in  a kettle 
with  plenty  of  water,  boil,  skim,  pour  off  water  and  add  fresh,  and 
boil  until  bones  will  pull  out  easily  ; do  not  bone,  but  pack  in  a stone 
jar  with  pepper  and  salt  sprinkled  between  each  layer ; cover  with 
good  cider  vinegar.  Some  heat  vinegar  scalding  hot,  add  two  table- 
spoons sugar,  one  of  cinnamon  bark,  teaspoon  each  cloves,  allspice 
and  whole  black  pepper,  to  three  pints  vinegar  and  a little  celery  or 
mustard  seed  may  be  added  if  liked.  Pour  over  hot  and  put  a plate 
or  saucer  on  the  feet  to  keep  them  under  the  vinegar.  This  pro- 
portion is  for  four  feet ; they  may  be  split  in  two  in  packingo  When 
wanted  for  table,  take  out  a sufficient  quantity,  put  in  a hot  skillet, 
add  more  vinegar,  salt  and  pepper  if  needed,  boil  until  thoroughly 
heated,  stir  in  a smooth  thickening  of  flour  and  water,  and  boil  until 
flour  is  cooked  ; serve  hot  as  a nice  breakfast  dish.  Or,  when  feet 
have  boiled  until  perfectly  tender,  remove  bones  and  pack  in  stone 
jar  with  pepper,  allspice  and  salt  between  the  layers,  and  cover  with 
equal  parts  vinegar  and  liquor  feet  were  boiled  in;  slice  cold  when 
wanted  for  use,  and  serve  with  vinegar  or  Worcestershire  sauce.  Or 
the  slices  maybe  broiled  or  fried.  Some  soak  the  fresh  feet  overnight 
before  cooking.  Let  liquor  in  which  the  feet  are  boiled  stand  over  - 
night ; in  the  morning  remove  fat  and  prepare  and  keep  for  use  as 
directed  in  Medical  Department. 

Baked  Pig^s  Head. — Cut  the  head  in  halves  and  thoroughly 
clean  it,  take  out  brains,  trim  the  snout  and  ears,  put  in  a pan  with 
a little  dripping,  bake  an  hour  and  a half,  basting  occasionally. 
Wash  the  brains  well,  blanch  and  beat  them  up  with  an  egg,  pepper, 
and  salt,  some  finely  chopped  or  pounded  sage,  and  a small  piece  of 
butter ; fry  them  or  brown  them  before  the  fire  and  serve  with  the 
head. 

Boiled  Pig^s  Head.— wash  half  a salted  pig’s  head 
and  soak  overnight  in  cold  water ; in  the  morning  put  over  the  fire 
in  more  cold  water,  with  a half  cup  vinegar,  and  teaspoon  each  whole 
cloves  and  pepper-corns,  and  boil  gently  three  hours,  or  until  very 
tender ; leave  it  in  the  water  in  which  it  wa^  boiled  until  it  is  wanted 
for  the  table  ; serve  it  with  boiled  spinach,  cabbage,  or  beet  tops. 

Collared  Pig'’s  Head. — Singe  the  head  carefully,  bone  it  with- 
out breaking  the  skin,  and  rub  it  well  with  salt.  Make  the  brine  by 


518 


MEATS. 


boiling  together  half  an  hour,  one  gallon  water,  one  pound  common 
salt,  tablespoon  chopped  juniper-berries,  six  bruised  cloves,  two  bay- 
leaves,  a few  sprigs  of  thyme,  basil,  sage,  and  one-fourth  ounce  salt- 
petre. When  cold,  pour  it  over  the  head,  and  let  it  stand  in  this  ten 
days,  turning  and  rubbing  it  often.  Then  wipe,  drain  and  dry  it. 
For  the  force-meat,  pound  half  pound  each  ham  and  bacon  till  fine, 
and  mix  in  one  teaspoon  mixed  spices,  pepper  to  taste,  quarter 
pound  lard,  tablespoon  minced  parsley,  six  jmung  onions  chopped. 
Spread  this  over  the  head,  roll  tightly  in  cloth,  bind  with  tape  and 
put  in  saucepan  with  a few  meat  trimmings  and  cover  with  stock. 
Simmer  gently  four  hours.  When  tender,  take  up  and  put  between 
two  dishes  with  heavy  weight  on  top ; when  cold  remove  cloth  and 
tape  and  send  to  table  for  breakfast  or  luncheon,  on  napkin,  or  gar- 
nished with  white  paper  frill  at  top. 

Pig'^s  Head  Cheese. — Having  thoroughly  cleaned  a nice 
head,  split  in  two,  take  out  the  eyes  and  brain  ; clean  the  ears,  throw 
scalding  water  over  the  head  and  ears,  then  scrape  them  well ; when 
very  clean,  put  in  kettle  with  water  to  cover,  and  set  over  a rather 
quick  fire  ; skim  it  as  any  scum  rises  ; when  boiled  so  that  the  flesli 
leaves  the  bones,  take  it  from  the  water  with  a skimmer  into  a large 
wooden  bowl  or  tray  ; take  out  every  particle  of  bone,  chop  meat 
fine,  season  to  taste  with  salt  and  pepper  (a  little  pounded  sage  may 
be  added),  spread  a cloth  over  the  colander,  put  the  meat  in,  fold 
cloth  closely  over  it,  lay  a weight  on  it  so  that  it  may  press  the  whole 
surface  equally  (if  it  be  lean  use  a heavy  weight,  if  fat,  a lighter  one)  ; 
when  cold  take  off  weight,  remove  from  colander,  and  place  in  crock. 
Some  add  vinegar  in  proportion  of  one  pint  to  a gallon  crock.  Clar- 
ify the  fat  from  the  cloth,  colander,  and  liquor  of  the  pot,  and  use 
for  frying.  Some  boil  and  chop  the  meat  from  the  feet  also.  Pow- 
dered sweet  herbs,  teaspoon  allspice,  two  of  cloves  and  saltspoon 
powdered  mace  make  a very  nice  seasoning,  and  some  like  the  flavor 
of  onions  stuck  with  cloves  boiled  with  the  meat.  Instead  of  press- 
ing in  a cloth  the  meat  may  be  packed  in  molds,  moistened  or  not 
with  a little  of  its  own  broth,  and  a little  vinegar.  Boiled  heart, 
part  of  liver  and  the  tongue  are  also  chopped  and  added,  and  some- 
times a fourth  as  much  lean  beef  as  meat  from  head,  etc.,  is  added. 
Sliced  tongue  and  sausages,  or  whole  tongue  may  be  placed  in  center 
of  mold.  This  dish  is  called  Brawn  by  the  English,  who  pack  in 
molds,  without  moistening,  and  press  with  weights.  Some  cook 
again  ten  minutes  or  so  after  chopping  the  meat  and  adding  the 
seasonings  before  putting  in  molds.  It  is  nice  to  pack  in  small 
molds,  if  to  be  served  cold,  and  slice  at  table.  Garnish  with  parsley 
and  barberries  or  slices  of  lemon.  Scrapple  is  composed  of  the 
head-meat,  trimmings  of  the  hams  and  shoulders,  flitch,  smaller 
parts  of  the  chine,  the  heart,  part  of  the  liver  and  the  skin  off  the 
parts  intended  for  lard  and  sausage.  The  spleen,  kidneys  and 
cracklings  are  used  by  some  and  rejected  by  others.  The  feet  and 


MEATS. 


519 


ears  may  also  be  used.  The  head  is  split  between  the  jaws,  and 
after  the  tongue  is  taken  out  it  is  split  through  the  middle  the  other 
way.  Cut  off  one  or  two  inches  of  the  snout  and  take  off  the  jaw- 
bone and  nasal  cavities  as  far  as  the  teeth  extend,  and  cut  across  at 
the  eye  and  also  at  the  opening  of  the  ear.  The  meat  may  then  be 
cleaned  out  evenly.  Put  the  head  meat  into  the  boiler  after  putting 
in  water  to  cover  it,  add  the  rest  of  the  meat  in  a quarter  of  an  hour. 
The  meat  must  be  boiled  until  it  will  readily  separate  from  the  bones 
(the  skins  should  be  boiled  separately  as  they  take  a long  time  to 
boil) ; then  take  from  liquid,  remove  the  bones  and  chop  the  meat 
very  fine.  Strain  the  liquid  to  get  out  small  bones  and  add  to  it 
enough  water  to  make  five  parts  liquid  to  three  of  meat.  As  soon 
as  liquid  boils,  stir  in  corn  meal  and  boil  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes, 
stirring  all  the  time.  Make  a moderately  thick  mush,  then  put  in 
meat,  mixing  thoroughly,  cook  slowly  one  hour  and  season  to  taste. 
It  takes  about  as  much  meal  as  meat,  but  no  buckwheat  nor  flour. 
The  Indian  meal  must  be  ground  fine,  of  new  corn,  well  dried  before 
grinding.  Put  away  in  tin  pans  or  earthern  pots  in  cold  place  but 
do  not  let  it  freeze.  Slice  and  fry. 

Boiled  Salt  Pork. — Wash  a piece  of  salt  pork,  the  leg  is  best, 
put  over  the  fire  in  cold  water  to  cover  and  boil  slowly  three  hours, 
allowing  twenty  minutes  to  the  pound ; when  done,  take  up  the  meat, 
remove  skin  and  serve  with  pickles  or  mustard  and  boiled  potatoes. 

Fried  Salt  Pork. — Cut  in  rather  thin  slices,  and  freshen  by  leP 
ing  lie  an  hour  or  two  in  cold  water  or  milk  and  water,  roll  in 
flour  and  fry  till  crisp  and  a nice  golden  brown ; if  in  a hurry,  par- 
boil, or  pour  boiling  water  on  the  slices,  let  stand  a few  minutes, 
drain,  roll  in  flour  and  fry  as  before.  Fry  cold  boiled  potatoes, 
sliced,  in  same  fat  till  brown  on  both  sides,  without  breaking,  and 
serve  as  a garnish  round  the  slices  of  pork  on  platter.  Keep  both 
hot  while  making  a gravy  as  follows  : Drain  off  most  of  the  grease 
from  frying-pan,  stir  in  while  hot  one  or  two  tablespoons  flour,  about 
half  pint  new  milk,  little  pepper,  and  salt  if  not  salt  enough  already 
from  the  meat ; let  boil  and  pour  into  gravy  dish.  A nice  white 
gravy  when  properly  made.  Some  soak  pork  to  be  fried  for  break- 
fast overnight  in  buttermilk.  Pork  Fried  in  Batter  is  nice  for  a 
change.  Make  the  batter  by  beating  together  four  eggs,  three  heap- 
ing tablespoons  flour,  a cup  milk,  and  a little  salt ; dip  the  slices  of 
pork  in  this  and  fry  in  hot  fat,  or  pour  the  batter  over  pork  in  fry- 
ing-pan and  cook  all  until  a nice  brown.  While  making  gravy  place 
the  fried  pork  where  it  will  keep  hot  but  not  fry,  as  it  should  be  sent 
to  table  in  nice  dry  crisp  slices  without  a particle  of  grease  visible. 
An  excellent  way  of  serving  is  to  dust  with  white  pepper  and  turn  a 
little  sweet  cream  over  the  slices.  Pork  Scraps  with  Egg  Sauce  are 
nice  served  with  boiled  codfish  and  mashed  potatoes.  Cut  fat  salt 
pork  into  half  inch  squares  and  fry  a crisp  brown ; for  the  fsauce, 


520 


MEATS. 


beat  an  egg  very  light,  with  one  tablespoon  flour.  Add  two  table- 
spoons cold  water,  then  pour  on  one  pint  boiling  water.  Let  it  boil 
three  minutes,  then  take  from  the  fire,  add  one-half  cup  melted  but- 
ter, and  serve  poured  round  the  pork  slices  neatly  placed  in  center 
of  platter.  For  Fried  Pork  with  Apples^  core  sour  apples,  cut  into 
nice  slices  crosswise  without  peeling  them  and  fry  in  pan  with  slices 
of  pork,  and  serve  on  dish  with  pork  in  center  and  apples  around 

Pressed  Salt  Pork. — Take  a rather  long  strip  of  fat  and  lean 
salt  pork,  cut  from  the  flank ; wash  it  in  cold  water,  and  soak  in 
warm  water  until  sufficiently  softened  to  roll ; lay  pork  skin  down 
on  table,  cut  out  all  bones  and  gristle,  season  rather  highly  with 
pepper  and  mixed  powdered  dried  sweet  herbs,  or  chopped'parsle^ 
or  celery  leaves  ; some  cover  with  sliced  pickled  gherkins,  seasoned 
with  pepper  and  powdered  mace  ; cut  any  uneven  portions  and  place 
them  so  that  pork  can  be  rolled  up  tightly ; tie  and  put  it  over  the 
fire  in  boiling  water  to  cover,  and  boil  gently  an  hour  and  a quarter, 
or  until  tender  enough  to  be  easily  pierced  with  a fork,  then  drain 
it,  reserving  liquor  in  which  it  was  boiled,  put  it  between  two  dishes, 
with  a weight  on  upper  one,  and  press  until  cold ; then  remove 
strings,  slice  and. serve.  Parsnips  washed  and  scraped,  and  boiicd 
tender  with  pork,  can  be  sliced  and  fried,  and  served  with  it ; the 
cold  pork  can  be  sliced  and  quickly  browned  in  frying  pan  with 
parsnips,  either  drippings,  lard,  or  butter  being  used  for  frying  them  ; 
carrots  can  be  cooked  in  same  manner,  and  served  with  pork,  or  any 
vegetable  preferred.  A nice  flavor  may  be  given  the  pork  by  boiling 
with  it  two  onions  stuck  with  six  cloves,  three  bay-leaves,  bunch 
of  parsley  and  sprig  of  thyme. 

Roast  Salt  Pork. — Boil  one  hour ; pour  off  first  water,  and  boil 
another  hour ; take  out  and  put  it  in  pan,  tip  so  grease  will  run  off, 
sprinkle  with  pepper,  and  bake  brown,  turning  and  basting  often, 
dredging  with  flour  at  two  or  three  last  bastings.  Bake  small,  smooth 
potatoes,  peeled  and  cut  round,  in  pan  with  pork,  and  dish  around  it 
as  a garnish.  Make  a brown  gravy  in  pan  and  serve  in  gravy  boat.  Or 
take  moderately  thin  pieces,  about  right  for  three  thin  slices,  pepper 
and  dust  with  sage,  and  bake  as  above.  Before  it  is  done  put  in  a 
few  pieces  of  onion.  When  done,  take  out,  cut  into  slices  for  table, 
dish  and  pour  a very  little  cream  over,  sprinkle  with  flour  and  put 
in  oven  to  brown.  Or  after  freshening  and  parboiling  a thin  piece 
of  side  pork,  spread  with  a dressing  of  bread-crumbs,  finely  chopped 
onion,  a small  piece  of  butter,  pepper  and  salt,  and  two  well-beaten 
eggs.  Roll  well  together  and  tie  tightly.  Place  in  a dripping-pan, 
with  a little  water,  dust  with  flour  and  a little  pepper,  and  roast  till 
a nice  brown.  Serve  with  apple  sauce.  A little  finely  chopped  pie- 
plant added  gives  the  sauce  a pleasant  acid  taste. 

Salt  Pork  Pot-pie. — Parboil  a piece  of  side  pork,  cut  in  small 
pieces  and  put  in  kettle  with  water  to  cover ; add  one  or  two  onions 


MEATS. 


521 


an  equal  amount  of  carrot,  and  a little  pepper ; let  cook  a few  min- 
utes, then  put  in  potatoes,  and  twenty  minutes  before  taking  up,  put 
in  some  dumplings.  Or  grate  medium-sized  carrot,  chop  one  small 
onion,  and  cut  in  small  slices  one  or  two  potatoes,  add  the  parboiled 
pork,  cut  in  bits,  with  sufficient  water,  and  cook  until  vegetables  are 
done ; thicken,  and  over  the  top  spread  a baking-powder  crust,  and 
bake  until  it  is  done.  Some  cook  the  pork  in  slices,  parboiling  as 
above,  and  add  only  small  potatoes,  whole.  Before  putting  in  the 
dumplings  it  ma}^  be  necessary  to  add  more  water,  which  should  be 
boiling.  For  the  dumplings  take  one  pint  flour,  pinch  of  soda,  salt, 
an  egg  beaten  light,  and  very  sour  milk  enough  to  make  a soft  dough, 
or  a very  stiff  batter  so  it  will  drop,  not  run  off  the  spoon ; drop  this 
in  small  spoonfuls  into  the  kettle,  and  cook  until  light  and  done, 
which  will  be  in  a very  few  minutes. 

Salt  Porh  Stew. — Boil  one  pound  salt  pork,  previously  fresh- 
ened, until  tender,  then  take  out  and  place  in  pan  in  oven  to  brown. 
Boil  potatoes  and  onions,  or  potatoes  alone  in  the  liquor  the  pork 
was  boiled  in  and  when  done  stir  in  a beaten  egg  mixed  with  a cup 
milk  and  tablespoon  butter,  with  seasoning  to  taste.  Or  when  onions 
are  omitted  put  in  dumplings  a half  hour  before  ready  to  serve. 

Boiled  Bacon.— k.^  bacon  is  often  very  salt,  it  should  be  soaked 
in  warm  water  an  hour  or  two  before  cooking ; then  pare  off  the  rusty 
parts,  and  scrape  the  under-side  and  rind  as  clean  as  possible.  Put 
into  a saucepan  cold  water,  let  it  come  gradually  to  a boil,  and  as 
fast  as  scum  rises  remove  it.  Simmer  very  gently  till  thorough  ' y 
done ; then  take  up,  strip  off  skin,  sprinkle  some  bread-crumbs  over 
and  garnish  with  tufts  of  cauliflower  or  Brussels  sprouts.  When 
served  alone,  young  and  tender  beans  or  green  pease  are  the  usual 
accompaniments.  Or  boil  a half  lean  and  fat  piece  with  a little 
stock,  slices  of  sausage  and  cabbage ; season  with  salt  and  spice  and 
serve  all  very  hot,  the  bacon  in  center  of  dish  with  sausages  and 
cabbage  around. 

Breakfast  Bacon. — Slice  very  thin,  cut  off  outside  and  lay 
each  slice  on  slice  of  bread  of  ordinary  thickness,  same  size  as  bacon, 
and  bake  in  pan  in  very  hot  oven.  Or  boil  till  tender,  and  when 
cold,  slice,  single-bread  and  fry  brown  in  very  little  fat.  Very  nice, 
and  quite  unlike  bacon. 

Broiled  Bacon. — The  half  lean  and  fat  part  of  thick  flank  is  best 
for  broiling.  Cut  into  thin  slices,  take  off  rind,  broil  over  a clear 
fire  and  serve  very  hot.  Some  broil  it  between  sheets  of  paper. 
Should  there  be  any  cold  bacon  left  from  the  previous  day,  it  an- 
swers very  well  for  breakfast,  cut  into  slices  and  broiled  or  fried. 

Fried  Bacon — Cut  bacon  in  thin  slices  and  fry ; some  like  it 
crisp,  others  fry  only  till  tra’isparent ; fry  eggs  in  same  pan  and 


522 


MEATS. 


serve  one  on  each  slice.  Or  fry  tart  apples,  either  quartered  or 
sliced  crosswise  and  cored,  in  the  fat  and  serve  them  on  the  slices  of 
bacon,  which  have  been  kept  hot  in  oven.  Rashers  of  Bacon  are 
thin  strips  of  bacon,  about  an  eighth  of  an  inch  thick,  and  three  or 
four  inches  long,  fried  until  transparent.  The  French  serve  them  laid 
over  beefsteak,  roast  beef,  game,  etc.,  and  they  are  often  served  for 
breakfast  with  fried  liver. 

Bacon  Pudding. — Cut  a quarter  pound  fat  bacon  in  small  bits 
and  fry  brown  with  two  sliced  onions  ; add  a pint  split  pease,  table- 
spoon salt,  saltspoon  pepper,  teaspoon  sugar  and  cold  water  to  cover ; 
boil  until  pease  are  reduced  to  pulp,  which  will  be  in  about  three 
hours.  Then  stir  in  oatmeal  to  thicken,  boil  twenty  minutes,  stir- 
ring occasionally,  and  serve  hot ; any  remains  left  over  may  be  sliced 
and  fried  brown  or  the  whole  may  be  cooled,  packed  in  a tin  or  mold 
and  then  fried. 

Bacon  Roly-Poly. — Boil  a pound  and  a half  bacon  half  an  hour  ; 
then  slice  thin ; peel  and  slice  six  apples  and  same  number  onions ; 
make  stiff  dough  of  two  quarts  fiour,teaspoon  salt,  pint  finely  chopped 
suet  and  cold  water ; roll  out  half  an  inch  thick  and  eight  inches 
wide ; lay  the  oacon,  apples,  and  onion  all  over  it,  roll  up,  tie  tightly 
in  a clean  cloth,  and  boil  about  two  hours,  in  plenty  of  boiling  water, 
or  it  may  be  steamed  four  hours.  Serve  hot  with  boiled  potatoes, 
or  boilecl  cabbage.  Some  omit  the  onions  and  apples,  and  chop  the 
bacon  fine.  For  Ham  Roly-Poly  use  chopped  ham  instead  .of 
bacon. 

Baked  Ham. — Put  the  ham  in  water  at  least  twelve  hours  be- 
fore baking.  Skimmed  milk,  or  milk  and  water  is  preferred  by 
many  to  water  for  soaking  hams.  When  ready  to  cook  wipe  the 
ham  dry,  trim  away  any  rusty  places,  and  cover  it  with  a coarse 
paste  of  flour  and  water  to  keep  the  gravy  in,  place  in  pan  on  trivet, 

put  in  oven  and  bake  from  four  to  six 
hours,  according  to  size,  or  allow  fifteen 
minutes  for  each  pound.  When  ready  to 
serve  take  off  paste  and  skin,  cover  with 
bread  or  cracker  crumbs  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  as  soon 
as  browned  take  up  and  garnish  the  knuckle  with  a paper  frill.  Ham 
is  sometimes  roasted  plainly,  as  directed  in  Roasted  Meats,  dredging 
well  with  flour,  bread-crumbs  or  cracker  dust,  but  is  much  sweeter 
and  nicer  if  the  juices  are  confined  by  a paste  as  .above.  Balked 
Stuffed  Ham  is  prepared  by  making  deep  incisions  in  the  ham  with 
a sharp  knife  and  filling  them  with  a bread  stuffing,  seasoned  with 
onion,  ground  sage,  celery  seed  and  thyme,  or  with  a dressing  made 
by  mixing  a quarter  pound  fresh  pork  chopped  very  fine,  two  table- 
spoons powdered  sage,  one  of  black  pepper,  teaspoon  cloves,  all- 
spice, and  cinnamon  and  an  onioii  chopped  very  fine,  rnoistening 
with  pepper  vinegar.  Put  the  ham  on  trivet,  sift  flour  thickly  over 


Trivet. 


MEATS 


523 


and  if  pan  is  deep  fill  half  full  of  water.  Bake  as  above,  basting  as 
other  roast  meats.  Or  wash  and  scrape  skin  till  very  white,  cut  out 
a piece  from  thick  part  (use  for  frying),  leaving  the  skin  on  the  ham 
as  far  as  possible,  as  it  makes  a casing  for  the  stuffing ; put  in  a boil- 
er and  steam  for  three  hours  ; take  out  and  score  in  thin  slices  all 
around  the  skin ; fill  the  space  cut  out  with  a stuffing  made  of  bread- 
crumbs, same  as  for  poultry,  only  not  quite  so  rich,  seasoned  rather 
highly  with  pepper  and  sage ; wrap  around  a strip  of  cotton  cloth  to 
keep  in  place,  and  bake  in  the  oven  one  and  a half  hours,  turning 
so  as  to  brown  al*  sides  nicely.  The  last  half  hour  sift  lightly  with 
powdered  sugar  and  cinnamon.  Some  peel  off  skin  after  steaming, 
then  insert  dressing  so  that  when  carved  each  slice  will  have  some 
of  the  dressing  in  it.  Mix  two  well-beaten  eggs  with  sifted  bread  or 
cracker  crumbs  and  spread  over  the  ham,  then  sprinkle  brown  sugar 
over  and  bake,  basting  frequently  with  the  liquor  in  pan.  What  is 
left  is  delicious  sliced  cold. 

Boiled  Ham. — Pour  boiling  water  over  the  ham  and  let  stand 
until  cool  enough  to  wash ; scrape  clean  (some  have  a coarse  hair- 
brush on  purpose  loi  cleaning  hams),  put  in  a thoroughly  cleansed 
boiler,  or  Ham  Boiler,  with  cold  water  enough  to  cover;  bring  to 
boiling  point,  skim,  and  place  on  back  part  of  stove  to  simmer 
steadily  for  six  or  seven  hours,  or  till 
tender  when  pierced  with  a fork,  or 
allow  fifteen  minutes  for  each  pound ; 
be  careful  to  keep  water  at  boiling 
point,  but  do  not  allow  it  to  go  much 
above  that.  Turn  the  ham  once  or  twice 
ill  the  water ; when  done  take  up  and 
put  into  baking-pan  to  skin ; dip 
hands  in  cold  water,  take  skin  be- 
tween fingers  and  peel  as  an  orange ; 
set  ill  moderate  oven,  placing  lean  side  of  ham  downward,  and  if 
liked,  sift  over  pounded  or  rolled  crackers:  bake  one  hour.  The 
baking  brings  out  a great  quantity  of  fat,  leaving  the  meat  much 
more  delicate,  and  in  warm  weather  it  will  keep  in  a dry,  cool  place 
a long  time  ; if  there  is  a tendency  to  mold,  set  it  a little  while  into 
the  oven  again.  Or,  after  the  ham  is  boiled  and  peeled,  cover  with 
the  white  of  a raw  egg,  and  sprinkle  sugar  or  fine  bread-crumbs  over 
it ; or  cover  with  a regular  cake-icing,  place  in  the  oven  and  brown ; 
or,  quarter  two  onions,  stick  whole  allspice  and  black  pepper  in  the 
quarters,  and  with  a knife  make  slits  in  the  outside  of  the  ham  in 
which  put  the  onions,  place  in  dripping-pan,  lay  parsley  around,  and 
bake  till  nicely  browned ; or  put  chopped  parsley  and  pepper  in  the 
incisions.  Or,  after  boiling  and  peeling,  dust  with  sugar,  and  pass  a 
salamander  or  hot  shovel  over  it  until  it  forms  a caramel  glaze,  and 
serve  without  baking.  Some  rub  the  ham  over  with  brown  sugar 
moistened  with  a little  vinegar ; stick  it  full  of  cloves,  then  bake  fif« 


524 


MEATS. 


teen  minutes ; or  take  half  cup  brown  sugar,  teaspoon  browned  flour, 
and  moisten  with  vinegar ; cover  this  paste  over  the  fat  of  the  ham, and 
set  in  very  hot  oven  until  the  mixture  froths.  A still  nicer  way  is  to 
glaze  with  strong  meat  jelly  or  any  savory  jelly  at  hand,  boiled  down 
rapidly  (taking  great  care  to  prevent  burning)  until  it  is  like  glue. 
Brush  this  jelly  over  the  ham  when  cool,  and  it  makes  an  elegant 
dish.  The  nicest  portion  of  the  boiled  ham  may  be  served  in  slices, 
and  the  ragged  parts  and  odds  and  ends  chopped  fine  for  sandwiches, 
or  by  adding  three  eggs  to  one  pint  of  chopped  ham  a delicious  ome- 
let may  be  made.  If  the  ham  is  very  salt,  it  should  he  in  water  over^ 
night.  Hard-boiled  eggs  in  rings,  pickled  beets  cut  in  fancy  shapes, 
sliced  lemons  and  green  parsley  are  used  as  a garnish  for  ham. 
Some  soak  the  ham  as  for  baking,  and  add  to  the  water  in  which  it 
is  to  be  boiled  a pint  vinegar,  two  or  three  bay-leaves  and  little  bunch 
thyme  and  parsley.  Others  like  the  flavor  of  parsley,  turnips  and 
onions.  The  ham  may  also  be  stuffed  as  directed  in  Baked  Ham. 
If  to  be  served  cold  let  the  ham  remain  in  the  water  until  nearly 
cold,  but  do  not  leave  overnight.  Remove  the  rind  and  with  a cloth 

absorb  as  much  grease  from  it  as 
possible  ; tneri  sprinkle  with 
bread-crumbs,  cut  any  figure 
fancied  upon  it,  with  a sharp 
knife,  ornament  with  a paper 
frill  and  croutons  or  vegetable 
flowers,  (see  Garnishes),  and 
serve  wit  h a garnish  of  aspic  jelly. 
^ If  an  ordinary  boiler  is  used  to 
boil  a ham,  some  put  a whisp  of  clean,  sweet  hay  in  bottom.  Keep 
the  bone  for  soup,  and  the  rind  and  fat  should  be  rendered  and 
strained  for  frying. 

Boned  soaked  a w^ell-cured  ham  in  tepid  water 

overnight,  boil  it  till  perfectly  tender,  putting  it  on  in  warm  water ; 
take  ui>  in  a wooden  tray,  let  cool,  remove  bone  earefully,  press  the 
ham  ngain  into  shape,  return  to  boiling  liquor,  remove  pot  from  fire, 
and  let  remain  in  it  till  cool.  Cut  across  and  serve  cold.  Or  fill  the 
bone  cavity  with  a bread  stuffing  or  force-meat  and  bake  an  hour. 
Serve  either  hot  or  cold. 

Broiled  Cut  ham  in  slices  of  medium  thickness,  place 

on  a hot  gridiron  and  broil  until  the  fat  readily  flows  out  and  the 
meat  is  slightly  browned,  take  from  the  gridiron  wdth  a knife  and 
fork,  drop  into  a pan  of  cold  water,  then  return  again  to  the  grid- 
iron, repeat  several  times,  and  the  ham  is  done  ; place  on  a hot  plat- 
ter, add  a few  lumps  of  butter,  and  serve  at  once.  If  too  fat,  trim 
ofi  a part ; it  is  almost  impossible  to  broil  the  fat  part  without  burn- 
ing, but  this  does  not  impair  the  taste.  Pickled  pork  and  breakfast 
bacon  may  be  broiled  in  the  same  way.  Or  use  any  patent  broil* 


MEATS. 


525 


ers  as  in  Broiled  Meat.  Eggs  broken  first  into  a saucer  and  then 
delicately  fried  in  butter  or  clarified  dripping  by  dipping  the  fat  over 
them  till  whites  are  set,  are  nice  served  on  broiled  ham  or  bacon.  Or 
they  may  be  served  round  the  meat  as  a garnish,  and  broiled  or  fried 
ham  is  sometimes  served  on  a bed  of  boiled  spinach. 

Fried  Ham  and  Eggs, — Cut  the  ham  into  thin  slices  and  if 
particularly  hard  and  salt,  soak  it  about  ten  minutes  in  hot  water 
then  dry  in  a cloth  and  put  over  fire  in  cold 
frying-pan,  and  turn  the  slices  three  or  four 
Ham  ana  Hggs,  tiiues  whllo  cookiug.  Ham  should  be  thorough- 

ly w^ell  done,  and  will  need  to  fry  at  least  half  an  hour.  When  done 
place  on  a dish  and  serve,  a poached  egg  on  each  slice.  Or  keep 
rdie  ham  hot  in  oven,  and  fry  the  eggs  in  the  fat  in  pan,  dipping  it 
over  the  eggs  Vv^ith  a spoon  to  cover  with  the  white  film,  and  some 
turn  the  eggs.  Take  out  as  soon  as  whites  are  set  and  serve  on  the 
ham.  Or  place  the  slices  of  ham  in  boiling  water  and  cook  till  ten- 
der ; then  put  in  frying-pan  and  brown,  dish  on  a platter,  and  serve 
eggs  on  the  slices,  fried  as  above,  or  as  a border,  with  ham  in  center 
of  platter.  Very  delicious.  Or  after  cooking  in  water  dip  the  slices 
of  ham  in  flour  or  sifted  bread-crumbs  before  frying.  Another  way 
of  serving  ham  is  after  boiling  to  put  where  it  will  keep  warm ; then 
mix  equal  quantities  potatoes  and  cabbage,  bruised  well  togethe-.^ 
and  fry  in  the  fat  left  from  the  ham.  Place  the  mixture  on  bottom 
of  dish  and  lay  the  slices  of  ham  on  top.  Cauliflower  or  broccoli 
may  be  substituted  for  cabbage.  Bacon  may  be  served  same.  The 
most  economical  way  to  cut  a ham  for  broiling  or  frying,  is  to  slice^ 
for  the  same  meal,  from  the  large  end  as  well  as  * from  the  thickest 
part ; in  this  way  a part  of  best  and  a part  of  the  less  desirable  is 
brought  on,  and  the  waste  of  the  meal  is  from  the  poorest,  as  the 
best  is  eaten  first.  After  cutting  a ham,  if  not  to  be  cut  from  again 
soon,  rub  the  cut  side  with  corn  meal ; this  prevents  the  ham  from 
becoming  rancid,  and  rubs  off  easily  when  the  ham  is  needed  again. 

Frizzled  Ham. — Cut  the  lean  part  of  ham  in  thin  shavings,  as 
thin  as  possible;  soak  in  cold  water  an  hour,  then  press  the  water 
out.  Put  a level  tablespoon  butter  in  a frying-pan  and  when  hot  put 
in  a pint  of  the  meat  and  fry  about  five  minutes,  stirring  all  the 
time ; then  sprinkle  over  it  a heaped  tablespoon  flour  and  fry  till 
the  flour  is  a yellow-brown  color ; pour  a pint  sweet  milk  over  and 
let  boil  one  minute.  Nice  for  breakfast  or  tea.  Dried  beef  prepared 
same  way. 

Potted  Ham. — Take  a pound  of  lean  to  every  half  pound  fat 
ham  (or  better  to  every  quarter  pound  fat)  and  mince  very  fine,  run 
through  a sausage  machine,  or  better,  pound  in  a mortar ; add  to 
each  pound  and  a hall  a small  teaspoon  powdered  mace,  quarter  of 
a good-sized  nutmeg,  grated  coarse,  and  a saltspoon  cayenne  pepper  ; 
less  mace  may  be  used  and  a little  pounded  allspice  added  instead  : 


526 


MEATS. 


a powdered  bay  leaf  may  also  be  added,  and  some  like  a little  mus- 
tard ; mix  all  thoroughly  and  press  into  the  dish  or  pot  in  which  it 
is  to  be  served.  Bake  in  oven  about  twenty-five  minutes,  taking 
care  that  the  top  does  not  brown  too  much,  and  then  press  it  down 
very  hard  using  a weight  of  some  kind.  Cover  the  top  with  a thin 
coat  of  fresh  melted  lard  or  clarified  butter,  tie  down  with  an  oil-cloth 
cover  or  paste  paper  over  and  it  will  keep  for  months.  Some  cover 
and  put  away  without  baking,  and  others  bake  in  baking  dish,  then 
pack  in  pots.  Very  nice  sliced  for  luncheon  ortea  or  for  sandwiches. 

Steamed  Ram. — Steaming  is  thought  by  many  far  the  best  way 
of  cooking  a ham.  Lay  in  cold  water  for  twelve  hours ; wash  very 
thoroughly , rubbing  with  a stiff  brush  to  dislodge  the  salt  and  smoke 
on  the  outside.  Put  into  patent  steamer,  or  a common  steamer  cov- 
ered closely  and  set  over  a pot  of  boiling  water.  Allow  at  least 
twenty  minutes  to  a pound,  keeping  the  water  at  a hard  boil.  When 
done  finish  and  garnish  as  Boiled  Ham  and  serve  spinach  or  other 
vegetables  with  it. 

Ram  Cake. — Pound  one  and  a half  nonnds  nice  ham  in  a mon 
tar,  or  pass  it  through  a sausage  macnme.  Soak  a large  slice  ol 
bread  in  a half  pint  milk,  and  mix  it  and  the  ham  well  together 
Add  a beaten  egg,  put  the  whole  into  a mold  and  bake  a rich  brown 

Ram  Puifs. — One  pint  each  water  and  flour,  five  eggs,  three  or 
four  tablespoons  chopped  ham,  pinch  of  cayenne.  While  water  is 
boiling  stir  in  flour,  beat  well  and  cook  until  the  stiff  batter  parts 
from  the  pan,  then  beat  in  the  eggs  one  by  one,  and  add  the  ham 
and  seasoning ; drop  in  hot  lard  and  fry  until  brown.  A nice  break- 
fast dish. 

Ram  Squares.— a thin  batter  of  flour,  water,  two  eggs 
and  a little  salt.  Have  a frying  pan  hot  and  put  in  it  one  tablespoon 
each  lard  and  butter,  or  drippings.  Pour  in  very  thin  layer  of  bat- 
ter, let  fry  two  or  three  minutes,  cover  the  batter  with  thin  slices  of 
ham,  then  pour  a thin  covering  of  batter  over  that  and  fry  till  the 
bottom  is  a light  brown ; cut  in  squares,  turn  and  fry  the  other  side. 

Sausage. — For  the  various  ways  of  making  and  packing  saus- 
age intended  for  long  keeping  turn  to  Cutting  and  Curing  Meats. 
To  cook  sausage  that  has  been  packed  in  jars  take  out  and  make 
Avith  floured  hands  in  small  cakes  and  fry  in  pan  without  lard,  turn- 
ing to  cook  both  sides,  or  simply  spread  on  bottom  of  frying-pan  to 
thickness  desired,  and  when  cooked  on  one  side  cut  into  nice  sized 
pieces  and  turn  to  finish  frying.  The  sausage  in  skins  should  be 
pricked  and  put  in  cold  frying-pan  to  cook  slowly,  or  if  not  pricked 
fry  in  a little  lard  or  dripping,  and  if  not  liked  very  fat,  take  out  of 
pan  when  nearly  done,  and  finish  cooking  on  gridiron.  Or  a very 
neat  and  the  most  wholesome  way  of  cooking  is  to  prick  them  all 


MEATS. 


527 


around,  lay  in  a shallow  tin,  and  put  in  oven  to  bake  half  an  hour. 
Sausage  and  Apples  are  often  served  together.  If  the  sausage  is 
in  cakes,  slice  the  apples  quite  thin  and  fry  in  pan  with  them,  serv- 
ing sausage  in  center  of  dish  with  apples  around.  If  the  saugage  is 
in  skins,  fry  both  sausage  and  sliced  apples  by  dropping  in  hot  lard, 
frying  apples  until  nicely  browned.  Serve  as  above,  or  after  frying, 
put  both  into  a pudding  dish  with  edge  of  paste  and  bake  half  an  hour 
in  quick  oven.  Apples  Stuffed  with  Sausage  are  sometimes  served 
as  an  entree.  Remove  the  cores  from  sour  apples  without  breaking, 
stuff  with  highly  seasoned  sausage  meat,  and  bake  until  the  meat  is 
done  in  a moderate  oven.  Sausages  are  also  served  on  a bed  or 
mound  of  mashed  potato  with  apple  fritters  as  a border,  or  with  ap- 
ple sauce.  Or  send  to  table  with  pieces  of  toast  of  same  size  between 
the  sausages.  Or  split  the  sausages  in  two  and  broil  them  sending 
to  table  on  toast.  Some  prefer  brown-bread  toast  for  this.  For 
Sausage  Rolls  make  paste  same  as  for  pie,  only  not  so  rich ; roll 
sausage  cakes  in  separate  pastes  and  bake  in  oven  till  lightly  browned. 
For  those  who  object  to  sausage  because  of  the  fat  a very  delicate 
way  of  preparing  is  to  mix  with  the  sausage  as  taken  from  jars 
bread-crumbs  or  cracker-dust, — half  and  half — and  some  add  beaten 
eggs  ; make  into  small  cakes,  dredge  with  flour  and  fry. 

Baked  Sausage. — Mix  a good  quantity  bread-crumbs  with 
prepared  sausage  meat,  add  an  onion  chopped  fine,  and  seasoning 
to  taste  ; some  like  a little  pounded  cloves.  Mix  well  and  fill  in  deep 
baking  pan,  with  strips  of  fresh  pork  about  two  inches  long  inserted 
an  inch  apart.  Bake  slowly  four  hours.  Leave  in  pan  till  perfectly 
cold.  To  serve,  slice  crosswise. 

Breaded  Sausage. — Wipe  the  sausages  dry,  single-bread,  put 
in  frying-basket,  plunge  in  hot  fat  and  cook  ten  minutes.  Serve 
with  a garnish  of  toasted  bread  and  parsley. 

Creoled  Sausage. — Chop  garlic  size  of  pea  very  fine ; peel  and 
slice  pint  of  tomatoes,  or  use  an  equal  quantity  canned,  without 
their  liquor  \ wipe  two  pounds  sausage  with  wet  cloth,  and  prick 
with  fork  to  prevent  skins  bursting  while  cooking ; put  sausages  over 
fire  in  dripping-pan  to  fry  and  when  they  begin  to  yield  drippings, 
push  to  one  side  of  pan,  and  put  in  the  garlic  and  tomatoes  ; let  fry 
wdthout  mixing  with  the  sausage ; while  tomatoes  are  frying  break 
and  mix  them  with  the  sausage  drippings,  and  season  rather  highly 
with  salt  and  pepper ; when  sausages  are  brown,  take  up  tomatoes 
with  a skimmer,  lay  on  hot  dish,  and  serve  sausages  on  them.  The 
drippings  remaining  in  pan  will  serve  as  good  basis  for  tomato  sauce. 

Liver  Sausage. — Mince  together  three-fourths  pound  rather 
fat  bacon,  one  pound  calf’s  liver  and  half  pound  bread-crumbs  ; sea- 
son wdth  pepper,  salt,  a little  grated  nutmeg  and  lemon  peel,  parsley, 


528 


MEATS. 


thyme,  a bay  leaf,  and  add  three  eggs ; mix  all  thoroughly  together, 
encase  in  the  usual  skin  and  fry  a nice  brown. 

Mutton  Sausage, — Take  a pound  fresh  mutton,  or  that  which 
has  been  underdone,  chop  very  fine  and  season  with  pepper,  salt 
and  beaten  mace.  Chop  also  half  pound  beef  suet,  two  anchovies, 
pint  oysters,  quarter  pound  bits  of  dry  bread,  and  a boiled  onion  ; 
mix  the  wfjole  with  the  oyster  liquor  and  whites  and  yolks  of  two 
well-beaten  eggs ; pound  the  whole  in  a mortar,  roll  into  lengths, 
corks  or  bails,  and  fry. 

Oyster  Sausage. — Take  one  pound  of  veal  and  twenty  oys- 
ters, bearded  ; pound  the  veal  very  fine  in  a mortar  with  a little  suet, 
and  season  with  little  pepper ; soak  a piece  of  bread  in  the  oyster- 
liquor,  pound,  and  add  it,  with  the  oysters  cut  in  pieces,  to  the  veal ; 
beat  and  add  an  egg  to  bind  them  together,  roll  into  little  lengths 
and  fry  in  butter  a delicate  brown.  Or  take  half  pound  lean  mut- 
ton or  beef,  with  three-quarters  pound  beef  suet,  and  twenty-five 
oysters,  bearded.  Chop  the  whole  and  add  bread-crumbs,  with  two 
yolks  of  eggs.  Season  with  salt,  white  pepper,  a little  mace,  and 
mushroom  powder.  May  be  put  in  skins  and  kept  a day  or  two  be- 
fore frying. 

Poultry  Sausage. — Chop  very  fine,  or  pound  in  mortar,  equal 
parts  cold  fowl,  cream,  dried  bread-crumbs,  and  boiled  onions ; 
season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  nutmeg  to  taste ; make  into  cakes  and 
fry  as  any  sausages.  Or  take  the  remains  of  boiled  or  roasted  fowl, 
remove  bones  and  chop  fine.  Boil  some  onions  in  good  gravy  and 
when  quite  soft  pound  them,  season  with  salt,  pepper,  parsley,  two 
cloves  and  a blade  of  mace ; pound  the  meat  and  add  some  bacon 
cut  in  small  pieces.  Mix  with  the  yolk  of  an  egg,  add  a little  lemon 
juice  or  sour  pickle,  or  chop  a little  sorrel  with  the  herbs,  fill  into 
skins  and  broil,  or  make  into  little  cakes  and  fry.  Remains  of  rab- 
bit or  other  game  may  be  prepared  same. 

Veal  Sausage, — Chop  a half  pound  each  lean  veal  and  fat  bacon 
very  fine  ; add  sage,  salt,  pepper  and  allspice  to  taste ; beat  well,  roll 
into  balls,  flatten  and  fry.  An  anchovy  chopped  with  the  meat  is  an 
improvement. 

White  Sausage. two  pounds  suet  very  fine  and  add  a 
pint  oatmeal,  two  or  three  onions  boiled  in  milk  and  chopped  with 
seasoning  of  white  pepper  and  salt ; fill  skins  and  cook  as  other 
sausage.  Rice  boiled  in  milk  may  be  added  if  liked.  Sausages 
may  be  made  of  any  cooked  meats,  chicken  or  rabbits ; chop  the 
meat  very  fine,  adding  onions  and  seasonings  as  above,  with  chop- 
ped parsley  and  a few  grains  of  pounded  mace ; or  add  chopped  ba- 
con instead  of  suet,  mix  all  together  with  two  yolks  of  eggs,  a few 
bread-crumbs  and  a few  drops  lemon  juice;  make  in  little  cakes  or 
fill  skins  and  broil  or  fry.  They  will  keep  but  a few  days. 


MEATS. 


529 


Sausage  with  Chestnuts. — Roast  twenty  or  thirty  chestnuts, 
peel  and  remove  inner  skin.  Cut  six  thin  slices  sausage  meat  into 
diamonds  and  fry  brown  in  a little  fresh  butter.  Take  them  out 
and  thicken  butter  in  pan  with  flour,  add  a pint  good  gravy  with 
two  or  three  tablespoons  any  catsup  liked,  a bunch  of  herbs  and  salt 
and  pepper  to  taste.  When  this  boils  put  the  sausage  round  the 
sides  of  pan  with  chestnuts  in  center  and  stew  three-quarters  of  an 
hour.  Dish  with  sausage  as  a border,  pouring  the  gravy  over  alh 

Sausage  Roll. — Roll  a piece  best  puff  paste  out  to  an  eighth  of 
an  inch  in  thickness  ; cut  in  four-inch  squares  and  lay  them  out  on 
board ; have  the  sausage  meat  ready,  break  it  off  in  pieces  the  size 
of  a small  egg,  roll  out  three  inches  long  and  place  one  piece  in  the 
muddle  of  each  square  of  pastry  ; wet  the  edge  of  pastr}^  with  water 
then  fold  over,  leaving  fourth  of  an  inch  edge  around  the  side  ; wash 
with  egg,  taking  care  not  to  allow  the  egg  to  run  down  over  the  sides 
of  the  pastry.  Give  a few  shallow  cuts  Avith  a sharp  knife  ; then  cut 
a leaf  of  pastry,  place  it  in  the  center  (do  not  wash  it),  and  bake 
them  a nice  brown.  If  made  well  the  edges  will  rise  up  and  the  roil 
will  look  like  a book. 

Marhled  Yeal. — Boil  a beef  tongue,  and  same  quantity  lean 
veal ; grind  separately  in  sausage  cutter ; season  both  with  pepper, 
a little  mustard  and  pinch  each  of  nutmeg  and  cloves,  adding  salt 
to  veal,  Pack  in  alternate  spoonfuls  as  irregularly  as  possible  in  a 
buttered  crock,  pressing  very  hard;  put  in  cold  place,  turn  out 
whole  and  cut  in  slices.  White  meat  of  fowls  may  be  used  in  place 
of  veal.  Or  take  a piece  of  veal  from  the  round ; add  loose  lean 
scraps,  and  a bone  if  convenient ; cover  with  cold  water  and  boil  un- 
til perfectly  tender ; remove  the  piece  of  meat,  leaving  the  scraps 
and  bone  to  stew  longer.  Have  ready  four  or  five  hard-boiled  eggs  ; 
slice  the  cold  veal,  and  put  in  the  mold  in  layers,  with  sliced  egg,  a 
little  salt,  pepper,  sweet  marjoram,  boiled  ham  cut  in  dice,  and  a 
slight  dredging  of  flour ; reserve  enough  of  the  egg  to  make  a border 
around  the  last  layer.  When  mold  is  full  press  the  layers  gently  to- 
gether and  pour  in  the  stock  from  kettle.  If  there  were  no  scraps 
or  bone  for  the  stock,  stir  in  a tablespoon  melted  gelatine  for  each 
pint  meat ; cover  mold,  and  bake  moderately  for  an  hour  and  a half. 
When  cold,  turn  from  mold  and  serve.  Thinly-sliced  uncooked  veal 
may  be  used. 

Potted  Yeal. — Mince  veal  and  ham  together  in  proportion  of 
one  pound  veal  to  quarter  poiund  ham,  pound  in  mortar  with  cay- 
enne and  mace  to  taste  and  sufficient  fresh  butter  to  make  smooth 
paste.  Press  into  little  pots  or  jars  and  cover  with  clarified  butter. 
Nice  for  breakfast  or  luncheon 

Yeal  Collops. — CuftAvo  pounds  leg  of  veal  into  long  thin  pieces 
about  two  inches  Avide,  flatten  them  and  lay  on  each  a slice  of  bacon 
34 


530 


MEATS. 


same  size.  Spread  a highly  seasoned  force-meat  over  the  bacon, 
sprinkle  with  cayenne,  roll  up  tightly,  skewer  firmly,  single-bread 
them  and  fry  a rich  brown  in  little  butter,  turning  occasionally. 
When  done,  dish  and  set  in  oven  to  keep  hot,  while  making  gravy  in 
pan ; flavor  with  lemon  juice,  salt,  pepper  and  pounded  mace,  boil 
up  once  and  pour  over  the  collops.  For  Yeal  Rolls^  take  slices  half 
inch  thich  of  cold  veal,  brush  with  egg  and  finish  as  above. 

Veal  Curry. — Cut  part  of  a breast  of  veal  into  pieces  about  three 
inches  long  and  two  wide ; fry  in  butter  a light  brown,  with  an  onion 
chopped  fine ; while  hot  rub  them  over  well  with  two  tablespoons 
curry  powder ; put  into  stewpan  and  add  some  good  veal  broth,  pep- 
per, salt  and  butter,  and  stew  very  slowly  until  meat  is  tender.  If 
wished  acid,  lemon  juice  or  liquor  from  pickles  may  be  added.  Or 
fry  the  onion  in  butter  separately,  a light  brown,  skim  out  and  set 
by  until  wanted.  Fry  about  two  pounds  veal  cut  in  small  square 
pieces  in  same  butter,  stirring  to  brown  well  on  all  sides,  add  two 
tablespoons  curry  powder  and  draw  pan  to  one  side ; grate  an 
apple  over  the  veal,  return  to  fire  and  add  half  teaspoon  salt,  three 
gills  stock  and  when  boiling  the  fried  onion ; again  draw  aside  and 
leave  to  simmer  uncovered  two  hours  to  reduce  the  gravy.  Just  be- 
fore serving  stir  in  two  tablespoons  cream  and  juice  of  half  a lemon. 
Serve  with  the  sauce  poured  over,  and  send  a dish  of  boiled  rice  on 
with  it.  The  reason  for  browning  the  onion  separately  is  that  the 
veal  requires  so  much  longer  time  to  brown  that  the  vegetables 
would  be  reduced  to  a crisp  before  the  meat  could  be  done.  Lean 
mutton,  rabbit  and  chicken  may  all  be  curried  in  this  way. 

Yeal  Cutlets. — The  choicest  cutlets  or  steaks  are  cut  from  the 
fillet  or  center  of  hind  leg.  For  Broiled  Veal  Cutlets.,  dredge  with 
pepper  and  salt  and  dip  in  melted  butter  and  sifted  bread-crumbs 
twice,  and  broil  with  a piece  of  buttered  paper  between  the  cutlets 
and  the  broiler,  giving  them  time  to  cook  through  before  the  bread- 
ing is  brown.  When  nearly  done  remove  paper  and  finish  on  the 
broiler.  Serve  garnished  with  parsley  and  lemon.  They  may  be 
broiled  without  the  paper.  Or  first  half  fry  them  in  a little  butter, 
turn  white  sauce  over  them  and  let  stand  till  cold.  Then  dip  in 
melted  butter  or  oil,  enclose  in  buttered  paper  cases  with  edges  folded 
so  that  the  sauce  will  not  run  out,  and  broil  slowly  twenty  minutes, 
or  place  in  oven  for  same  time.  For  Fried  Yeal  Cutlets^  make  a 
batter  of  half  pint  milk,  a well-beaten  egg,  and  flour ; fry  veal  brown 
in  sweet  lard  or  beef-drippings,  dip  it  in  the  batter  and  fry  again  till 
brown ; drop  spoonfuls  of  batter  in  hot  lard  after  veal  is  taken  up, 
and  serve  on  top  of  meat ; put  a little  thickening  in  the  gravy  with 
salt  and  pepper,  let  it  come  to  a boil  and  pour  it  over  the  whole. 
The  veal  should  be  cut  thin,  pounded,  and  cooked  nearly  an  hour. 
Sifted  bread-crumbs  or  cracker  dust  and  egg  may  be  used  instead 
of  batter,  but  the  skillet  should  then  be  kept  covered,  and  the  veal 


MEATS. 


531 


cooked  slowly  for  half  an  hour  over  a moderate  fire.  Some  season 
the  crumbs  with  grated  lemon  peel,  and  nutmeg  and  a little  chopped 
parsley.  If  a gravy  is  wanted,  sprinkle  a little  flour  in  the  pan,  add 
salt  and  pepper  and  a little  water,  let  come  to  a boil,  and  pour  over 
the  cutlets ; or,  pound  well,  squeeze  juice  of  lemon  over  the  slices, 
let  stand  an  hour  or  two,  .dip  in  beaten  egg  and  then  in  fine  dry 
bread-crumbs,  and  plunge  at  once  into  hot  fat  enough  to  cover.  The 
slices  wall  brown  before  they  are  thoroughly  cooked,  and  the  pan 
should  be  drawn  aside  to  a cooler  place  to  finish  more  slowty.  Fry 
slices  of  tomato,  first  rolled  in  flour  seasoned  with  pepper  and  salt, 
Avith  the  cutlets  and  serve  as  a border  round  them.  Or  turn  a nice 
broAvn  gravy  over  them  and  garnish  with  parsley  or  sliced  lemon. 
Or  fry  slices  of  ham  first,  then  fry  the  breaded  cutlets  in  same  fat, 
and  arrange  on  dish  with  alternate  slices  overlapping  each  other, 
spreading  the  ham  Avith  butter  mixed  with  a little  mustard,  and  the 
A^eal  with  butter  melted  Avith  a little  tart  jelly.  Or  fry  and  serve 
AAuth  nice  slices  of  salt  pork.  Some  cooks  parboil  before  frying 
either  in  clear  Avater  or  put  with  them  a piece  of  nice  pork,  clove  of 
garlic,  bunch  of  thyme  and  parsley,  pepper  and  salt,  cover  with 
Avater  and  steAV  ten  or  fifteen  minutes,  take  out  and  cool,  then  bread 
and  fry.  Nice  with  mushroom  sauce.  For  Maryland  Cutlets^  cut 
tAvo  pounds  fillet  of  veal  into  small  round  pieces  and  place  in  frying" 
pan  Avith  tAVO  tablespoons  butter  and  seasoning  of  white  pepper  and 
salt.  Cook  the  meat  OA^er  a slow  fire  five  minutes  in  order  to  whiten 
it,  turning  the  pieces  and  do  not  let  the  butter  broAvn.  DraAV  pan 
from  fire  and  sprinkle  over  the  meat  a tablespoon  chopped  pars- 
ley, half  dozen  mushrooms  and  a shallot  also  chopped  ; melt  in  sep- 
arate saucepan  a tablespoon  butter,  stir  in  a tablespoon  flour,  add 
by  degrees  a half  pint  Avhite  stock,  bring  all  to  a boil,  pour  over  the 
veal  in  frying-pan  and  cook  sloAvly  twenty  minutes,  turning  the 
meat  constantly  to  preA^ent  coloring  too  much.  When  done  take 
up  the  meat  on  flat  dish  and  stir  into  sauce  yolks  of  two  eggs  beaten 
Avith  tablespoon  cream,  simmer  sloAvly  till  thick  and  turn  over  the 
cutlets  which  must  have  been  kept  hot. 

Yeal  Fricandelles.— Cook  one  cup  each  milk  and  bread-crumbs 
until  a smooth  paste ; add  tAvo  pounds  lean  veal,  finely  chopped,  half 
cup  chopped  ham,  cup  butter,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  juice  of  half 
a lemon.  Mix  thoroughly  and  form  into  balls  size  of  an  egg,  dip 
the  balls  in  beaten  yolks  of  three  eggs  and  brown  them  in  butter. 
When  all  are  cooked,  stir  through  the  butter  in  pan  three  table- 
spoons flour,  add  gradually  a pint  and  a half  beef  stock,  and  boil 
two  minutes.  Put  the  balls  in  this  and  cook  very  sloAvly  one  hour. 
Serve  Avith  toast  and  lemon.  Fricandelles  can  be  made  with  chicken, 
mutton,  lamb,  or  beef,  but  the  ham  must  be  omitted. 

Yeal  Fricassee. — Put  piece  of  butter  size  of  an  egg  into  a ket- 
tle, and  when  it  begins  to  fry,  put  in  the  A^eal,  season  and  fry  broAAm ; 


532 


MEATS. 


then  add  water  sufficient  to  cook  it.  When  done  thicken  with  cream 
and  flour  as  for  Chicken  Fricassee,  and  the  dish  will  be  very  like 
chicken  and  much  cheaper.  Two  pounds  of  veal  will  make  a dinner 
for  six  or  eight  if  not  too  much  bone.  Or  cut  the  veal  in  nice  sized 
slices  and  fry  in  melted  butter  until  firm  but  not  colored ; dredge  a 
tablespoon  flour  over  them,  add  a little  grated  lemon  peel,  and  grad- 
ually as  much  boiling  veal  stock  as  will  cover  the  meat ; simmer  un- 
til tender.  Take  out  meat  and  add  to  the  gravy  a gill  of  boiling 
cream,  salt,  cayenne,  and  a pinch  powdered  mace.  Beat  yolks  of 
two  eggs  in  a bowl ; add  gradually  a little  of  the  sauce,  after  it  has 
cooled  a few  minutes,  then  add  it  carefully  to  the  remainder.  Re- 
turn the  meat  to  the  sauce,  and  let  the  saucepan  remain  near  the 
fire  until  eggs  are  set.  Add  juice  of  half  a lemon  and  serve. 

Yeah  Loaf. — Three  pounds  leg  or  loin  of  veal*  and  three-fourths 
pound  salt  pork,  chopped  finely  together;  roll  one  dozen  crackers, 
put  half  of  them  in  the  veal  with  two  eggs,  season  with  pepper  and 
a little  salt  if  needed ; mix  all  together  and  make  into  a solid  form ; 
then  take  the  crackers  that  are  left  and  spread  smoothly  over  the 
outside ; bake  one  hour,  basting  occasionally,  and  serve  cold  in 
slices.  Beef  Loaf  is  made  same.  Some  pack  in  deep  baking  dish 
and  season  with  cinnamon,  sage,  celery,  summer  savory  or  nutmeg, 
and  bake.  This  is  also  called  Yeal  Pate.  For  Yeal  Cakes  make 
the  same  mixture  into  little  cakes  or  balls  and  fry  in  kettle  of  hot  fat. 
Lean  pork  may  be  used  if  the  veal  is  fat,  and  some  use  only  veal. 

Yeal  Olives. — Take  the  bone  out  of  fillet  and  cut  thin  slices  any 
size  wished,  beat  them  flat,  rub  with  beaten  yolk  of  egg,  lay  on  each 
piece  a thin  slice  of  boiled  ham,  sprinkle  salt,  pepper,  grated  nutmeg, 
chopped  parsley,  and  bread-crumbs  over  all,  roll  up  tight,  and  secure 
with  skewers,  single-bread,  lay  in  dripping-pan,  and  set  in  oven ; 
when  brown  on  one  side,  turn,  and  when  sufficiently  done,  put  them 
in  a rich  highly  seasoned  gravy  and  stew  till  tender.  Take  out 
skewers  and  serve,  garnished  with  Force-meat  Balls  and  green  pickles, 
sliced.  Or  take  one  and  a half  pounds  of  veal,  trim  off  the  edges 
and  fat,  cut  in  strips  three  inches  wide  and  four  long,  season  to  taste 
with  salt  and  pepper ; chop  the  trimmings  and  fat,  add  three  table- 
spoons cracker  dust.,  salt  and  pepper,  and  butter  enough  to  mix  ; 
spread  this  over  the  strips  of  meat,  roll  and  tie  in  shape,  and  dredge 
well  with  flour.  Fr}^  them  brown  in  pork  fat  and  put  them  in  an- 
other pan  that  can  be  covered.  In  the  fat  stir  one  tablespoon  flour, 
brown,  add  a pint  beef  broth,  stir  for  two  or  three  minutes,  and  pour 
all  over  the  olives ; cover  and  let  all  simmer  two  hours.  To  serve, 
cut  the  strings,  place  olives  on  the  dish  and  pour  the  gravy  over. 
Beef  Olives  made  the  same,  adding  teaspoon  sage  and  summer 
savory  to  the  dressing. 


MEATS. 


533 


Yeal  Oysters. — Cut  veal  from  the  leg  or  other  lean  part  into 
pieces  the  size  of  an  oyster.  Rub  a seasoning  of  pepper,  salt  and  a 
little  mace  mixed  over  each  piece  ; single-bread  and  fry  as  oysters. 

Yeal  Pie. — Cut  two  pounds  cutlets  into  square  pieces,  and  sea- 
son with  pepper,  salt,  and  pounded  mace ; put  in  a pudding  dish  with 
two  tablespoons  minced  savory  herbs  sprinkled  over,  and  one  or  two 
slices  of  lean  bacon  or  ham  placed  on  top ; if  possible  this  should  be 
previously  cooked,  as  undressed  bacon  makes  the  veal  red,  and  spoils 
its  appearance.  Pour  in  a little  water,  cover  with  crust,  ornament 
as  fancied ; brush  over  with  yolk  of  an  egg,  and  bake  in  a well  heat- 
ed oven  for  about  one  and  one-half  hours.  Pour-  in  a good  gravy 
after  baking,  which  is  done  by  removing  the  top  ornament,  and  re- 
placing it  after  the  gravy  is  added.  For  a Yeal  and  Ham  Pie^  cut 
the  veal  and  ham  in  thin  slices,  lay  a slice  of  ham,  about  one-third 
the  slice  of  the  veal  on  the  latter,  season  with  seasoning  as  above, 
and  roll  them  up  and  place  them  in  the  dish,  add  water  and  chopped 
(not  sliced)  hard-boiled  eggs,  place  on  the  crust  and  bake  in  a mod- 
erate heat,  the  same  as  for  Beefsteak  Pie.  If  the  ham  is  very  salt 
use  less  salt  and  more  pepper  in  the  seasoning.  Parsley  is  a great 
favorite  generally  with  veal.  Those  wishing  it  can  add  it ; also  force- 
meat balls.  Catsup,  either  mushroom  or  tomato  or  a little  Worces- 
tershire sauce,  may  also  be  added.  Some  are  very  fond  of  sausage 
meat  added  to  the  veal  pie  ; but  all  these  are  mere  matters  of  taste. 
For  a Yeal  and  Oyster  Pie  procure  a pound  flank  or  neck  of  veal, 
cut  in  small  pieces  and  stew  until  tender  in  just  enough  water  to 
cover.  Chop  an  onion  with  a little  parsley  and  add  with  the  pork 
also  cut  up,  salt  and  pepper  and  last  a spoonful  of  thickening  and  a 
cup  milk.  Take  from  fire  and  turn  it  into  a shallow  pan  that  will 
hold  one  and  one-half  or  two  quarts.  Then  scatter  a cup  oysters  and 
their  liquor  over  the  top,  sprinkle  a little  more  pepper  and  a dust  of 
flour  from  the  dredger,  and  cover  with  a crust.  Bake  about  half  an 
hour.  The  crust  may  be  made  by  rubbing  a small  cup  minced  suet 
with  a heaping  cup  flour  and  a pinch  salt,  and  mixing  with  luke- 
warm water,  or  with  lard  and  flour  in  about  the  same  measures,  mix- 
ed up  very  cold. 

Yeal  Pot-Pie.~Vwi  two  or  three  pounds  veal  (a  piece  with  ribs 
is  good),  cut  in  a dozen  pieces,  in  a quart  cold  water;  make  a 
quart  soda-biscuit  dough;  take  two-thirds  of  dough,  roll  to  a fourth 
of  an  inch  thick,  cut  in  strips  one  inch  wide  by  three  long;  pare  and 
slice  six  potatoes ; boil  veal  till  tender,  take  out  all  but  three  or  four 
pieces,  put  in  two  handfuls  of  potatoes  and  several  strips  of  dough, 
then  add  pieces  of  veal  and  dough,  seasoning  with  salt,  pepper,  and 
a little  butter,  until  all  the  veal  is  in  pot ; add  boiling  w^ater  enough 
to  cover,  take  rest  of  dough,  roll  out  to  size  of  pot,  cut  several  holes 
to  let  steam  escape,  and  place  over  the  whole.  Put  on  a tight  lid 
and  boil  gently  twenty  or  thirty  minutes  without  uncovering.  Or, 


534 


MEATS. 


cut  a half  pound  salt  pork  in  thin  slices  about  an  inch  square  and 
fry  brown ; cut  three  pounds  breast  of  veal  in  two-inch  slices,  season 
with  salt  and  pepper,  and  roll  in  flour ; when  pork  is  brown  add  veal 
to  it,  stir  together  over  fire  for  two  minutes ; pour  over  a quart  boil- 
ing water,  season  with  two  teaspoons  salt  and  a saltspoon  pepper, 
and  cook  slowly  until  the  veal  is  tender.  Meantime,  peel  two  quarts 
potatoes,  and  slice  rather  thin  ; leave  half  in  cold  water  until  the 
veal  is  cooked,  and  boil  the  rest  in  salted  boiling  water  until  soft 
enough  to  be  rubbed  through  a colander  with  a potato-masher  ; while 
rubbng  them  through  the  colander,  add  two  tablespoons  butter,  and 
mix  with  them  about  half  a pint  milk  and  sufficient  flour  to  form  a 
paste  which  can  be  rolled  and  cut  out.  When  the  veal  is  tender  lay 
a piece  of  this  potato  paste  about  an  inch  thick  in  the  bottom  of  a 
deep  earthen  pudding-dish,  and  fill  the  dish  with  alternate  layers  of 
veal  and  raw  sliced' potatoes.  Pour  into  the  dish  the  broth  in  which 
the  veal  was  cooked,  lay  on  the  top  the  rest  of  the  potato  paste, 
brush  it  with  beaten  egg,  and  set  the  dish  in  a hot  oven  until  the 
paste  is  brown.  Serve  pot-pie  hot  in  dish  in  which  it  is  cooked. 

Veal  Roll. — Spread  a thin  veal  cutlet  with  a dressing  of  bread- 
crumbs, moistened  with  a little  melted  butter,  and  seasoned  lightly 
with  salt,  pepper  and  summer  savory ; roll  the  cutlet  up,  tie  with  a 
fine  cord ; bake  till  done,  basting  thoroughly ; when  cold,  remove 
the  cord  and  cut  into  slices. 


Veal  Stew. — Have  bones  of  breast  of  veal  cracked,  so  that  it 
can  be  easily  carved,  dust  with  flour,  put  over  the  fire  in  a dripping- 
pan  containing  enough  hot  butter  to  prevent  burning,  and  browm  it 
quickly  on  both  sides ; pour  over  enough  Doiling  water  to  cover, 
season  with  a teaspoon  of  salt  and  a dust  of  cayenne  pepper,  turn 
another  pan  over  it,  and  stew  it  gently  for  an  hour ; meantime  shell 
green  pease  enough  to  cover  it ; after  the  veal  has  cooked  an  hour  put 
in  the  pease  and  cook  them  until  tender,  then  serve  them  with  the 
veal  laid  on  them,  first  seasoning  both  palatably.  Or  rice  may  be 
boiled  and  served  with  it  instead  of  the  pease.  Or  boil  two  and  a 
half  pounds  of  breast  of  veal  one  hour  in  water  enough  to  cover ; add 
a dozen  potatoes,  and  cook  half  an  hour ; before  taking  off  stove,  add 
pint  milk  and  flour  enough  to  thicken ; season  to  taste.  If  preferred 
make  a crust  as  for  chicken-pie,  bake  in  two  pie  pans,  place  one  of 
the  crusts  on  the  platter,  pour  over  the  stew,  and  place  the  other  on  top. 
For  another  stew,  take  best  end  of  a neck  ; cut  in  pieces,  season  with 

salt  and  pepper,  and  stew  in  just 
enough  water  to  cover;  when  done, 
make  a gravy  with  flour  and  butter 
stirred  together,  and  add  the  water 
in  which  the  veal  was  stewed,  sea- 
stewed  Knuckle  of  Veal.  sonliig  to  taste.  For  Stswed  Knuckle 

of  Yeal.,  cook  whole  as  in  first  recipe  and  serve  on  a bed  of  pease. 


MEATS. 


535 


For  Stewed  Fillet  of  Veal,  procure  a small,  fat  fillet,  remove  the 
bone,  and  stuff  it  with  half  pint  bread-crumbs,  mixed  with  two  ounces 
suet,  a little  parsley,  chopped  onion,  lemon-thyme,  grated  lemon 
peel,  nutmeg,  pepper,  and  salt.  Reserve  some  of  the  dressing,  moisten 
it  a little,  make  into  small  balls,  roll  in  bread-crumbs  and  fry  in 
deep  lard.  Skewer  the  fillet  nicely,  and  put  in  kettle,  with  plate 
underneath  to  prevent  sticking  ; add  a carrot  and  onion  sliced,  pep- 
per-corns, salt,  and  mace ; cover  with  cold  water,  and  stew  slowly. 
Take  up  when  done,  strain  a pint  of  the  liquor  for  gravy,  and  thicken 
with  four  tablespoons  flour,  rubbed  smooth  with  two  tablespoons 
butter,  and  add  enough  cream  to  make  h a rich  white.  Or  the  meat 
may  be  glazed.  Garnish  with  the  balls  and  thin  slices  of  lemon  ; 
pour  the  gravy  over  the  veal.  Loin  of  veal  maybe  stewed  same  way. 
For  Creoled  Veal  take  six  pounds  fat  veal,  and  cut  in  pieces  about 
the  size  for  stewing ; sprinkle  with  flour,  and  fry  brown.  In  same 
vessel  cut  up  and  fry  one  onion  and  two  cloves  of  garlic  ; add  one 
pint  prepared  tomatoes,  one  teaspoon  each  pepper  and  salt.  When 
nearly  done,  cut  up  and  add  a sprig  of  parsley.  Will  require  two 
and  one  half  or  three  hours  slow  cooking. 

Blanquette  of  Veal. — Cut  three  pounds  breast  of  veal  in  pieces 
two  inches  square ; put  in  enough  cold  water  to  cover,  with  teaspoon 
white  pepper,  teaspoon  salt,  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  half  a carrot 
scraped,  a turnip  peeled,  and  an  onion  stuck  with  three  cloves  ; bring 
slowly  to  a boil,  skim  carefully  and  cook  gently  thirty  or  forty  min- 
utes, till  the  veal  is  tender ; then  drain  it,  returning  broth  to  fire, 
and  washing  the  meat  in  cold  water.  Meantime  make  a white  sauce 
by  stirring  together  over  the  fire  tablespoon  each  butter  and  flour, 
till  smooth,  adding  pint  and  a half  of  the  broth  gradually ; season 
with  more  salt  and  pepper  if  required,  and  quarter  saltspoon  grated 
nutmeg ; when  the  sauce  has  boiled  up  well,  stir  in  with  egg-whip  yolks 
of  two  raw  eggs,  put  in  the  meat  and  cook  five  minutes,  stirring  oc- 
casionally ; a few  mushrooms  are  a great  improvement,  or  it  may  be 
served  with  two  tablespoons  chopped  parsley  sprinkled  over  after  i1 
is  put  on  a hot  plater. 

Boiled  Breast  of  Veal. — If  the  sweet-bread  is  to  be  boiled  with 
the  veal,  let  it  soak  in  water  two  hours  ; then  skewer  it  to  the  veal ; 
put  into  a saucepan,  with  boiling  water  to  cover,  let  it  boil  up,  and 
carefully  remove  the  scum  as  it  rises ; add  a handful  chopped  pars- 
ley, teaspoon  pepper-corns,  a blade  of  mace,  and  a little  salt.  Draw 
it  back,  and  simmer  gently  till  done.  Serve  on  a hot  dish,  and  pour 
a little  good  onion  sauce  or  parsley  sauce  over  it.  Send  boiled  ba- 
con to  table  on  a separate  dish. 

Braised  Fillet  of  Veal. — Lard  the  top  of  the  fillet  with  bacon 
as  thickly  as  possible.  Cut  a carrot,  turnip  and  head  of  celery  into 
small  pieces  and  put  into  a braising,  or  ordinary  copper  saucepan. 
Pour  one  and  one-half  pints  stock  over  them,  add  a few  pepper-corns 


533 


MEATS. 


and  teaspoon  salt,  and  lay  the  fillet  upon  the  vegetables  which  should 
be  arranged  thickly  enough  to  lift  the  meat  quite  above  the  stock. 
Place  the  braising-pan  over  a quick  fire,  and  baste  the  fillet  constant- 
ly until  the  stock  boils  ; then  cover  the  fillet  with  a sheet  of  kitchen 
paper,  cut  to  the  size  of  the  braising-pan,  close  the  lid  of  pan  and 
place  in  a quick  oven,  where  let  remain  for  an  hour  and  a quarter. 
While  in  the  oven  the  lid  of  the  pan  and  the  paper  covering  should 
be  raised  and  the  fillet  basted  frequently  with  the  stock.  Cook  an 
hour  and  a half,  take  up  the  meat  on  a hot  platter  and  put  the  brais- 
ing-pan over  a quick  fire,  until  the  stock  is  reduced  to  half  the  quan- 
tity, when  it  should  be  poured  through  a strainer  around  the  meat 
and  all  sent  quickly  to  the  table.  Braise  any  other  part  of  veal  same. 

Fricandeau  of  Veal. — The  veal  for  a fricandeau  should  be  of 
best  quality,  or  it  will  not  be  good.  Take  off  skin,  flatten  veal  on 
table,  then,  at  one  stroke  of  the  knife,  cut  off  as  much  as  is  required, 
for  a fricandeau  with  an  uneven  surface  never  looks  w^ell.  Trim  it. 
and  with  a sharp  knife  make  two  or  three  slits  in  the  middle,  that  it 
may  taste  more  of  the  seasoning ; lard  it  thickly  with  fat  bacon, 
Slice  two  carrots  and  two  large  onions,  a bunch  sweet  herbs,  two 
blades  pounded  mace,  six  whole  allspice,  two  bay  leaves  and  pepper 
to  taste,  in  the  middle  of  a stewpan,  with  a few  slices  of  bacon  on  top  ; 
forming  a sort  of  mold  in  center  for  the  veal  to  rest  upon.  Lay  the 
fricandeau  over  the  bacon,  sprinkle  over  it  a little  salt,  and  pour  in 
just  enough  stock  to  cover  the  bacon,  etc.,  without  touching  the  veal. 
Bring  gradually  to  a boil,  then  put  it  over  a slow  fire,  and  simme\* 
very  gently  for  about  two  and  a half  hours,  or  longer  should  it  bo 
very  large  Baste  frequently  with  the  liquor,  and  a short  time  be  • 
fore  serving,  put  it  into  a brisk  oven,  to  make  bacon  firm,  Avhich 
otherwise  would  break  when  it  was  glazed.  Dish  fricandeau,  keejv 
it  hot,  skim  off  fat  from  liquor,  and  reduce  it  quickly  to  a glaze,with 
wliich  glaze  the  fricandeau,  and  serve  with  a puree  of  whatever  vege' 
table  happens  to  be  in  season — spinach,  sorrel,  asparagus,  cucum- 
ber, pease,  etc.  Or,  for  a more  economical  dish,  cut  away  the  lean 
part  of  the  best  end  of  neck  of  veal  with  sharp  knife,  scooping  it 
from  the  bones.  Put  the  bones  over  the  fire  with  enough  water  to 
moisten  the  fricandeau  and  stew  an  hour.  Lard  the  veal  and  place 
in  kettle  on  top  of  bacon  and  vegetables  as  above,  pour  gravy  from 
bones  over,  taking  care  that  it  does  not  touch  the  veal,  stew  very 
gently  three  hours,  glaze,  and  serve  as  above.  Or,  some  use  a slice 
from  the  fillet  two  inches  thick  and  after  larding  fry  it  brown  on  all 
sides  in  a little  butter,  with  the  sliced  onion  and  carrot  and  teaspoon 
each  pepper  and  summer  savory ; then  add  a half  pint  stock  and 
bake  in  oven  till  done,  basting  often.  Serve  with  strained  gravy 
from  pan  poured  over,  thickened  if  liked. 

Grenadines  of  Veal. — Cut  two  pounds  fillet  of  veal  into  oval 
pieces  about  half  an  inch  tbicli  and  lard  with  thin  strips  of  bacon) 


MEATS. 


537 


cook  in  a pint  white  stock  with  a carrot,  turnip  and  onion  cut  in 
small  pieces,  and  finish  as  above,  browning  in  oven,  and  turning  re- 
duced and  strained  gravy  over. 

Quenelles  of  Veal. — Cut  a pound  fillet  of  veal  into  small  pieces 
and  pound  in  a mortar,  then  put  through  a sieve,  add  a tablespoon 
butter  and  two  of  flour  and  stir  in  two  well-beaten  eggs  and  a gill  .of 
stock  with  a seasoning  of  pepper  and  salt  and  any  spices  liked. 
Make  into  balls  or  any  shapes  desired  with  floured  hands  and  put  in 
a frying-pan  carefully,  to  preserve  their  shape  ; pour  in  at  the  side 
as  much  boiling  water  as  will  cover  the  quenelles,  place  over  a slow 
fire  and  poach  ten  minutes.  Melt  in  a small  saucepan  a tablespoon 
butter,  stir  in  two  tablespoons  flour,  add  by  degrees  a gill  of  stock 
and  let  all  boil.  When  boiling,  pour  in  a gill  of  cream,  season  with 
pepper  and  salt,  take  from  fire  and  add  teaspoon  lemon  juice.  Ar- 
range quenelles  in  a circle  upon  a flat  dish,  and  pour  the  sauce  around 
them.  When  a mortar  is  not  at  hand  parboil  the  veal  in  a little 
boiling  stock  and  chop  fine  before  putting  through  the  sieve. 

Rissoles  of  Veal. — Remove  skin  from  one  pound  fillet  of  veal, 
chop  it  very  fine  and  pound  well  in  a mortar.  Put  into  a bowl  three- 
quarters  pint  bread-crumbs,  pour  a half  pint  milk  over,  and  soak  ten 
minutes ; put  the  bread-crumbs  in  a towel  and  squeeze  as  dry  as 
possible.  Then  mix  the  crumbs  with  the  pounded  veal,  season  with 
saltspoon  powdered  mace,  half  teaspoon  each  pepper  and  salt,  drop 
in  yolks  of  two  eggs,  and  beat  together  with  a quarter  pound  finely 
chopped  suet.  Roll  into  small  balls,  dip  each  in  beaten  whites  of 
two  eggs,  then  into  sifted  bread-crumbs  and  fry  about  ten  minutes 
in  hot  fat.  Make  a sauce  of  half  pint  white  stock,  thickened  with 
melted  butter  and  flour  made  smooth,  season  to  taste  and  serve  ris- 
soles on  hot  platter  with  sauce  poured  over.  Prepare  cold  veal  same. 

Roast  Fillet  of  Veal. — Rub  two  tablespoons  salt  and  half  tea- 
spoon pepper  into  the  veal ; then  fill  the  cavity  from  which  the  bone 
was  taken, with  Ham  Force-meat  or  any  stuffing  liked ; skewer  and  tie 

the  fillet  in  round  shape.  Cut  a 
half  pound  salt  pork  in  thin  slices, 
and  put  half  on  a tin  sheet  that 
will  fit  in  dripping-pan  ; place  this 
I in  pan,  and  fillet  on  it ; cover  veal 
Piiietofveai.  ' wUh.  remainder  of  pork;  put  hot 

water  enough  in  pan  to  just  cover  the  bottom,  and  place  in  oven. 
Bake  slowly  four  hours,  basting  frequently  with  gravy  in  pan,  season 
v/ith  salt  and  white  pepper.  As  water  in  pan  cooks  away,  it  must 
be  renewed,  remembering  to  have  only  enough  to  keep  meat  and  pan 
from  burning.  After  cooking  three  hours,  take  pork  from  top  of 
fillet  and  spread  thickly  with  butter  and  dredge  with  flour.  Repeat 
this  after  thirty  minutes,  and  then  brown  handsomely.  Put  about 


538 


MEATS. 


three  tablespoons  butter  in  saucepan  and  when  hot  add  two  heaping 
tablespoons  flour,  and  stir  until  dark  brown.  Add  to  it  a half  pint 
stock  or  water ; stir  a minute,  and  set  back  where  it  will  keep  warm, 
but  not  cook.  Take  up  fillet,  and  skim  all  fat  off  gravy ; add  water 
enough  to  make  a half  pint  gravy,  also  the  sauce  just  made.  Let 
this  boil  up,  and  add  the  juice  of  half  a lemon,  and  more  salt  and 
pepper,  if  needed.  Strain,  and  pour  around  the  fillet.  Garnish  the 
dish  with  potato  puffs  and  slices  of  lemon. 

Roast  Loin  of  Veal. — Wash  and  rub  thoroughly  with  salt  and 
pepper,  leaving  in  the  kidney,  around  which  put  plenty  of  salt ; roll 
up,  let  stand  two  hours ; in  the  meantime  make  a dressing  of  bread- 
crumbs, salt,  pepper  and  chopped  parsley  or  thyme  moistened  with 
a little  hot  water  and  butter — some  prefer  chopped  salt  pork — add- 
ing an  egg.  Unroll  the  veal,  put  dressing  well  around  kidney,  fold, 
and  secure  well  with  several  yards  white  cotton  twine,  covering  the 
meat  in  all  directions  ; place  in  the  dripping-pan  with  the  thick  side 
down,  put  to  bake  in  a rather  hot  oven,  graduating  it  to  moderate 
heat  afterward  ; in  half  an  hour  add  a little  hot  water  to  the  pan  and 
baste  often ; in  another  half  hour  turn  roast,  and  when  nearly 
done,  dredge  lightly  with  flour  and  baste  with  melted  butter.  Before 
serving,  carefully  remove  the  twine.  A four-pound  roast  thus  pre- 
pared will  bake  tender  in  about  two  hours.  To  make  the  gravy,  skim 
off  fat  if  there  is  too  much  in  the  drippings,  dredge  some  flour  in  th^ 
pan,  stir  until  it  browns,  add  some  hot  water  if  necessary,  boil  a few 
moments  and  serve  in  gravy-boat.  This  roast  is  ver}^  nice  to  slice 
down  cold  for  Sunday  dinners.  Serve  with  green  pease  and  lemon 
jelly.  The  loin  is  also  roasted  on  a bed  of  vegetables,  as  beef,  and 
may  be  stuffed  with  a Veal  Force-meat  instead  of  the  bread  dressing. 
Some  prefer  to  apply  a mixture  of  melted  butter  and  flour,  twice  as 
much  of  the  former  as  the  latter,  to  the  veal  in  cooking,  using  a pastry 
brush  in  putting  it  on.  The  breast  of  veal  boned,  with  a layer  of 
force-meat  spread  over  the  inside,  rolled  and  tightly  bound  is  nice 
roasted  same.  For  a plain  roast  loin  have  every  joint  thoroughly 
cut,  and  between  each  lay  a slice  of  salt  pork ; roast  a fine  brown,  so 
that  the  edges  of  the  pork  will  be  crisp,  basting  often ; season  with 
pepper — the  pork  will  make  it  salt  enough.  The  shoulder  may  be 
roasted,  with  bone  removed  and  stuffed,  same  as  loin  or  fill  the  bone 
cavity  with  onions,  peeled  and  sliced,  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper ; 
or  equal  quantities  of  bread-crumbs  and  onions  may  be  used.  Nicely 
peeled  and  rounded  potatoes  may  be  baked  in  pan  with  roast  veal, 
turning  to  brown  both  sides.  Serve  shoulder  with  gravy  as  above. 

Veal  with  Oysters. — Fry  two  pounds  tender  veal  cut  in  thin 
bits,  and  dredged  with  flour,  in  sufficient  hot  butter  or  lard  to  pre- 
vent sticking ; when  nearly  done  add  one  and  a half  pints  fine  oys- 
ters, thicken  with  flour,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  cook  until 
done.  Serve  hot  in  covered  dish. 


]MEATS. 


639 


CaWs  Brains. — For  cleaning  and  blanching  brains  preparatory 
to  cooking  follow  directions  given  in  Cutting  and  Curing  Meats. 
As  the  whiter  and  finer  they  are  the  more  delicate  the  dish,  the  pro- 
cess called  double-blanching  is  recommended,  ^lieep’s  brains  are 
equally  as  nice  as  calf’s,  and  those  of  beef  may  be  used  but  are 
coarser  and' more  inclined  to  be  tough  or  stringy.  Broth  from  the 
head  should  be  utilized  for  making  the  gravy  to  accompany  dishes 
of  brains  and  gives  a much  richer  flavor  than  if  of  milk  or  water. 

Scrambled  Brains. — Double-blanch  them.  To  the  beaten  yolks 
of  four  eggs  add  a little  chopped  parsley,  the  brains  crumbled  in 
small  pieces  and  the  well-frothed  whites.  Stir  in  frying-pan,  in 
which  a little  butter  or  fat  has  been  heated,  like  scrambled  eggs. 
Nice  served  on  toast,  and  rendered  yet  more  excellent  by  pouring 
some  good,  well  seasoned  gravy  over  all. 

Stewed  Brains. — Put  two  or  three  slices  bacon  in  stewpan  with 
\he  brains,  an  onion  stuck  with  two  cloves,  small  bunch  parsle}^  and 
seasoning  of  pepper  and  salt;  covei  with  some  of  the  broth,  and 
boil  gently  about  twenty-five  minutes.  Have  ready  some  croutons, 
arrange  in  dish  alternately  with  the  brains,  and  place  in  oven  to  keep 
warm.  Add  to  broth  in  stewpan,  an  onion  sliced  and  fried  in  a little 
butter,  enough  more  broth  to  make  one  pint  liquid,  bunch  of  sweet 
nerbs,  half  a bay  leaf,  two  allspice,  a clove,  salt  and  pepper.  Simmer 
gently  a few  minutes,  skim  out  spices,  etc.,  and  add  tablespoon  lem- 
on juice  or  vinegar  and  a few  stewed  mushrooms,  if  liked,  and  pour 
at  once*  over  the  dish  of  brains  Butter  may  be  used  instead  of  ba- 
con. The  croutons  want  to  be  the  same  size  of  the  brains,  and  a 
more  elaborate  sauce  may  be  made  called  Supreme  Sauce : Take 
one  quart  white  sauce,  a few  mushrooms  and  two  quarts  chicken 
broth,  boil  carefully  and  quickly  till  reduced  to  two  quarts.  Add 
the  yolks  of  six  eggs,  and  strain.  Return  to  saucepan  and  boil  up 
once ; add  juice  of  a lemon  and  a little  butter  and  pour  immediately 
over  the  prepared  brains. 

Brain  Fritters. — Boil  brains  in  a cloth,  chop  fine,  and  beat  up 
with  an  egg,  teaspoon  flour,  three  tablespoons  sweet  milk,  and  little 
nutmeg ; have  ready  a frying-pan  of  hot  lard,  and  drop  in  the  mix- 
ture so  as  to  make  the  fritters  size  of  a half  dollar.  Or  divide  the 
brains  in  small  pieces,  dip  in  fritter  batter  (see  Fritters)  and  fry  as 
above  ; or  wdien  perfectly  cold  beat  the  brains  to  a paste,  add  eggs 
and  flour  to  make  good  batter,  scant  teaspoon  fresh,  sweet  butter,  to 
j prevent  toughness,  and  fry  as  Fritters,  or  on  a griddle  like  cakes. 
They  are  also  nice  single-breaded  and  fried  as  Brain  Croquettes^ 
either  by  immersion  or  in  little  butter  or  drippings.  They  will  look 
like  sweet-breads  and  are  quite  as  delicate.  Some  soak  before  frying 
in  a mixture  of  oil,  salt  and  vinegar,  drying  with  a cloth  and  frying 
as  above,  prepared  in  any  of  above  ways.  They  are  delicious  served 
surrounded  by  cooked  pease,  either  fresh  or  canned. 


540 


MEATS. 


Brains  and  Tongue. — Blanch  and  chop  the  brains,  and  put  in 
saucepan  with  two  tablespoons  butter,  a little  chopped  parsley ,juice 
of  half  a lemon,  salt  and  cayenne  pepper.  Skin  and  trim  the  boiled 
tongue,  place  in  middle  of  dish  and  pour  the  sauce  and  brains  round 
it.  If  liked  a tablespoon  each  chopped  parsley,  capers  and  gherkins, 
and  teaspoon  very  finely  chopped  onion  may  be  added  to  the  sauce. 
Garnish  with  parsley,  mace,  pickles  or  slices  of  lemon.  Or,  after 
blanching  put  the  brains  in  quart  cold  water  with  teaspoon  salt  and 
tablespoon  vinegar  and  boil  fifteen  minutes,  and  when  cold  serve 
with  a cold  tongue,  the  latter  in  center  of  dish  and  brains  cut  in  two 
and  placed  at  the  sides.  Pour  tartare  sauce  round  them  and  garn- 
ish as  above.  For  Brain  and  Tongue  Pudding^  line  a baking  dish 
with  good  paste  and  put  in  a layer  of  thinly-sliced  cooked 
tongue,  then  a layer  of  chopped  brain,  add  a seasoning  of  salt,  pep- 
per, a little  chopped  onion  and  parsley.  Do  this  alternately  till 
dish  is  filled.  On  the  top  put  slices  of  hard-boiled  egg ; moisten  by 
adding  a teaspoon  fiour  mixed  smoothly  in  a quarter  pint  milk. 
Steam  an  hour  or  bake  half  an  hour.  A fresh  cucumber,  pared  and 
sliced,  may  be  put  in  the  pudding,  if  liked. 

CalBs  Take  a couple  of  calf’s  ears  that  have  been  cut 

off  deeply  from  head,  trim  nicely,  scald  off  hair,  and  cleanse  very 
thoroughly.  Drain  on  sieve,  and  then  boil  in  milk  and  water  till 
tender.  Fill  the  insides  with  nicely  prepared  Veal  Force-meat,  tie 
them,  and  stew  half  an  hour  in  a pint  stock  seasoned  with  pepper, 
salt,  and  an  onion  stuck  with  three  cloves.  Drain  again  and,  add  to 
the  liquor  in  which  they  were  boiled  twelve  stewed  mushrooms, 
yolk  of  an  egg  beaten  in  cup  cream,  and  remove  the  onion  and  cloves. 
Dish  up  the  ears,  pour  the  sauce  round  them,  and  garnish  with  force- 
meat balls  and  slices  of  lemon.  A very  pretty  side  entree.  Or  they 
may  be  served  without  sauce,  and  merely  eaten  with  oil  and  vinegar. 

CalPs  Feet — Clean  as  directed  for  Pig’s  Feet ; blanch  and  boil 
till  tender,  and  for  Fricaseed  Feet.,  cut  in  two  and  take  out  bones ; 
to  half  pint  good  white  gravy,  add  tablespoon  each  flavored  vinegar 
lemon  nickle,  salt  and  teaspoon  curry  powder ; stew  the  feet  in  it 
fifteen  minutes,  and  thicken  with  yolks  of  two  eggs,  gill  of  milk,  a 
tablespoon  butter  and  two  of  white  flour  ; shake  the  stewpan  over 
the  fire  a few  minutes,  but  do  not  boil  or  the  eggs  and  milk  will 
curdle.  Save  liquor  feet  were  boiled  in  for  enriching  gravies,  making 
glaze,  jellies,  etc.  The  feet  of  sheep  and  beef  may  be  cooked  same 
as  calf’s,  but  are  not  so  nice.  Any  of  them  may  be  cooked  like  recipes 
for  Pig’s  Feet.  For  Fried  prepare  as  for  Fricasseed  Feet,  then 
cut  in  two-inch  pieces,  dredge  well  with  flour  and  fry  a light  brown 
in  butter  or  drippings  ; put  a little  chopped  parsley  and  butter  over 
and  garnish  with  fried  parsley.  Some  press  the  feet  under  a weight 
overnight  before  frying.  They  are  nice  also  dipped  in  fritter  batter 
and  fried  in  hot  fat ; or  seasoned  with  salt,  cayenne,  chopped  pars- 


MEATS. 


541 


ley,  single-breaded  and  fried  as  Feet  Croquettes.  Drain,  dish  on  a 
napkin  and  garnish  with  parsley.  A nice  dish  is  made  of  Stewed 
Feet.  Procure  four  calf’s  or  twelve  sheep’s  feet;  prepare  as  above. 
Take  out  large  bones.  Put  a quarter  pound  beef  or  mutton  suet  in 
stewpan  with  two  onions  and  a carrot  sliced,  two  sprigs  of  thyme, 
two  bay  leaves,  plenty  of  salt  and  pepper  and  simmer  five  minutes. 
Add  two  tablespoons  flour,  two  and  a half  quarts  water,  and  stir  till 
it  boils ; put  in  the  feet,  simmer  three  hours,  or  until  perfectly  ten- 
der,take  them  out  and  lay  on  a sieve.  Mix  together  on  a plate  with  back 
of  spoon  tablespoon  each  butter  and  flour,  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg  and 
juice  of  one  lemon.  Put  the  feet,  with  a gill  of  milk,  into  a stewpan, 
and  when  very  hot,  adM  the  butter,  etc.,  and  stir  till  melted.  Mix 
yolks  of  two  eggs  with  five  tablespoons  milk  and  add  to  other  in- 
gredients, keep  stirring  over  the  fire  a minute  or  two,  but  ao  not  boil 
after  eggs  are  added.  Serve  in  deep  dish.  Or  take  out  the  bones 
without  injuring  the  skin,  stuff  them  with  a fine  force-meat  and  stew 
half  an  hour  in  some  of  the  stock,  which  must  be  well  flavored  with 
onion  season  with  pepper  and  salt  and  a little  sauce ; reduce  to  a 
glaze,  and  brush  it  over  the  feet.  Serve  with  any  stewed  vegetable. 

CaWs  Head. — Comparatively  few  housekeepers  knowhow  many 
really  dainty  dishes  can  be  prepared  from  calf’s  head.  For  hints  as 
to  purchasing,  turn  to  Marketing,  and  for  directions  for  cleaning, 
blanching,  skinning,  boning,  etc.,  see  Cutting  and  Curing  Meats. 
Almost  every  part  of  the  head  can  be  used,  though  there  is  some 
tough  white  meat  about  the  mouth  to  be  removed,  a small  part 
around  the  eye,  and  some  bits  of  gristle.  The  water  or  broth  in 
which  the  head  has  been  boiled  should  be  saved  for  soup,  though  a 
part  of  it  is  of  course  used  for  making  the  gravy  which  accompanies 
the  dish.  Lamb’s  or  Sheep’s  head  can  be  cooked  the  same  as  calf’s, 
after  any  of  the  recipes  given,  the  meat  from  two  of  the  former 
about  equaling  that  from  one  of  the  latter.  Beef’s  head  may  also 
be  used,  but  must  be  soaked  in  salted  water  overnight,  will  require 
longer  boiling  and  will  not  of  course  make  so  delicate  a dish.  Only 
half  the  meat  from  a beef’s  head  will  be  required  in  recipes  where 
that  of  a calf’s  is  given.  To  give  the  desired  acid  flavor  generally 
liked  with  calf’s  head  use  the  sour  cooking  wine  of  foreign  manu- 
facture or  any  of  the  flavored  vinegars  preferred  (see  Pickles). 

Baked  Head. — After  blanching,  halve  the  head  carefully,  cutting 
down  between  the  ears,  lay  in  dripping-pan,  cover  with  bread-crumbs 
and  melted  butter,  and  bake  in  hot  oven,  basting  frequently.  Make 
a sauce  of  drawn  butter,  chopped  hard-boiled  eggs,  the  mashed 
brain,  a little  red  pepper,  and  some  parsley.  When  the  head  is 
done,  serve  on  a flat  dish,  smothered  in  the  sauce.  Some  prefer  to 
brush  the  head  over  with  two  beaten  yolks  of  eggs  before  covering 
with  bread-crumbs,  and  sprinkle  over  also  powdered  mace,  nutmeg, 
and  pepper  and  salt ; put  the  brains  in  with  the  head,  first  dipping 


542 


MEATS. 


in  melted  butter ; put  a little  good  gravy,  stock,  or  water  if  neither 
is  at  hand,  in  pan,  cover  closely  and  bake  in  hot  oven,  removing 
cover  long  enough  before  done  to  brown  nicely.  Serve  with  a sauce 
poured  round  it,  made  as  follows  : Slightly  brown  two  or  three  sliced 
onions  or  shallots  in  butter ; add  tablespoon  flour,  some  brown  gravy 
or  stock,  a carrot  thinly  sliced,  little  chopped  parsley,  bay  leaf,  rind 
and  j uice  of  half  a lemon,  white  pepper,  and  salt.  Simmer  all  one 
half  hour,  and  pass  through  coarse  strainer.  Put  back  in  sauce  pan, 
heat  through,  and  add  small  piece  butter,  tablespoon  any  flavored 
vinegar  liked,  lump  of  sugar,  and  more  lemon  juice  and  caj’enne  if 
not  piquant  in  taste.  Or  garnish  with  sliced  lemons  and  send  on 
with  it  any  good  grav}^  liked  in  a boat.  For  Stuifed  Calf^s  Head^ 
procure  a head  cut  off  about  a finger  length  behind  the  ears,  with 
the  skin  unbroken,  sew  up  the  places  from  which  the  e^^es  have 
been  removed,  salt  it  well  outside  and  in  and  set  aside  while  mak- 
ing the  stuffing.  Boil  a smoked 
heel’s  tongue,  the  fresh  calf’s  tongue 
and  some  mushrooms  till  soft,  chop 
fine  and  add  sufficient  rich  white 
sauce  to  make  a smooth  dressing,  and 
put  on  ice  till  very  cold ; chop  fine 
three  pounds  cooked  veal  with  dried  herbs,  sage,  parsley,  etc.  Open 
the  head  on  the  under  side  and  put  in  half  the  veal,  then  the  dress- 
ing prepared  as  above,  and  fill  up  with  remainder  of  veal.  Sew  the 
edges  of  the  opening  together  and  close  the  back  of  head  or  neck  by 
sewing  on  a piece  of  bacon  cut  to  fit.  Kub  all  over  with  lemon  juice 
and  cover  with  very  thin  slices  of  bacon,  wrap  in  a cloth  and  bind 
well  with  a r ^twork  of  twine.  Put  in  a pan  with  half  pint  each  vine- 
gar and  water,  cover  with  another  pan,  or  put  in  a closed  roasting 
pan,  and  bake  in  slow  oven  two  or  three  hours.  When  done  take  off 
cloth  and  bacon,  dredge  with  flour  and  let  brown.  Serve  on  platter 
garnished  with  parsley,  or  with  mushrooms  and  potato  balls,  and 
send  on  with  it  a good  rich  gravy. 

Boiled  Head. — Put  in  a kettle,  cover  with  hot  water,  let  boil  a 
few  minutes  and  skim  carefully ; then  place  where  it  will  simmer 
gently  until  tender.  Serve  with  drawn  butter  and  parsley  and  garn- 
ish with  slices  of  lemon.  Or  for  Broioned  Head.,  boil  as  above  and 
when  tender  score  the  surface  by  making  slight  cuts  over  it  an  inch 
and  a half  apart,  cover  with  beaten  yolk  of  egg  and  bread-crumbs, 
mixed  powdered  thyme  and  parsley  and  pepper  and  salt.  Set  in 
oven  to  brown,  and  when  it  begins  to  look  brown  baste  once  with  a 
little  melted  butter.  Garnish  with  thin  slices  of  bacon,  curled.  The 
water  in  which  the  head  is  boiled  should  be  kept  for  soup.  Another 
nice  way  of  preparing  is  to  blanch,  drain  and  tie  head  and  brains  in 
cloth  and  boil  in  salted  water  until  bones  can  be  removed ; the 
brains  will  be  done  sooner  and  must  be  taken  out.  Take  meat  from 
bones  and  put  with  the  onions  in  deep  buttered  dish,  season  with 


?,IEATS. 


543 


pepper,  salt  and  spices  to  taste,  put  bits  of  butter  over  and  dust  with 
flour.  Pour  half  pint  of  the  broth  with  four  tablespoons  flavored 
vinegar  over  the  meat  and  bake  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  or  until 
very  brown,  basting  well.  For  Molded  Head^  cut  the  meat  from  the 
boiled  head  into  thin  slices,  or  any  remains  will  do.  Butter  a tin 
mold,  cut  yolks  of  hard-boiled  eggs  in  half  and  put  some  of  them 
around  the  edge  in  any  shapes  fancied,  sprinkle  salt,  pepper,  mixed 
spice,  and  chopped  parsley  over,  then  put  in  the  meat  of  the  head 
with  thin  slices  of  ham  or  bacon  in  layers,  adding  occasionally  more 
eggs  and  spice  till  all  of  head  is  used.  Pour  in  half  pint  good  white 
gravy,  cover  the  top  with  a thin  paste  of  flour  and  water,  and  bake 
three-quarters  of  an  hour.  Take  off  the  paste,  and  when  cold,  turn 
out  of  the  mold  and  serve.  Or,  chop  the  meat  and  eggs  fine  and 
pack  in  mold  in  alternate  layers,  and  pour  the  gravy  over,  which 
may  be  flavored  with  a little  lemon  juice,  minced  parsley  and  catsup. 

Broiled  Head. — Cut  a blanched  calf's  head  into  pieces  three 
inches  wide,  place  in  a saucepan,  cover  with  water,  add  four  table- 
spoons vinegar,  and  simmer  half  an  hour ; then  put  in  cold  water  a 
few  minutes,  dry  on  a towel,  rub  a little  salad-oil  over  each  piece, 
and  broil.  When  done,  brush  melted  butter  over  them  and  juice  of 
half  a lemon. 

Collared  Head. — Bone  a calf’s  head  carefully,  wash  it  well,  and 
wipe  dry ; lay  the  meat  on  table,  and  spread  on  it  a force-meat  made 
of  the  brain  and  tongue  and  a very  little  ham  mixed  with  a table- 
spoon chopped  parsley,  teaspoon  each  thyme  and  marjoram,  chop 
ped  yolks  of  three  hard-boiled  eggs, tablespoon  or  two  flavored  vinegar, 
a little  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg.  Roll  up  as  tightly  as  possible,  and 
tie  in  a cloth,  binding  with  tape.  Put  in  saucepan  with  stock  enough 
to  cover ; a carrot,  parsnip,  onion,  sliced  lemon,  a few  bay  leaves, 
salt,  and  a dozen  bruised  peppers,  and  boil  gently  three  hours  ; then 
take  it  out  of  the  cloth,  dish  and  pour  round  it  a sauce  made  of  a 
pint  of  the  liquid  in  which  it  was  boiled,  with  a little  lemon  juice, 
two  small  pickles,  and  four  button  mushrooms  chopped  fine.  Some 
boil  the  head  about  two  hours  before  removing  the  bones,  and  an- 
other way  of  collaring  is  to  sprinkle  over  it  a thick  layer  of  parsley, 
then  a layer  of  thick  slices  of  ham,  then  yolks  of  six  hard-boiled 
eggs  cut  in  thin  rings,  and  put  a seasoning  of  pounded  mace,  nut- 
meg and  white  pepper  between  each  layer ; roll  in  a cloth  as  above 
and  boil  four  hours  ; when  taken  out  of  the  pot,  place  a heavy  weight 
on  top  and  let  remain  till  cold ; then  remove  the  cloth  and  binding, 
and  serve  sliced  cold  with  any  salad  or  dressing  liked.  Some  spread 
simply  with  alternate  layers  of  sliced  ham  and  chopped  parsley 
seasoned  with  mace,  nutmeg,  pepper  and  salt.  If  to  be  kept  more 
than  a day  or  two,  place  in  jar  and  cover  with  vinegar  and  water. 

Fricasseed  Head. — Remove  all  bones  from  a boiled  head  and 
cut  the  meat  into  nice  square  pieces  or  slices.  Put  a pint  and  a half 


544 


MEATS. 


of  liquor  in  which  head  was  boiled  in  saucepan  with  blade  of  pounded 
mace,  a chopped  onion,  bunch  savory  herbs,  and  salt  and  white 
pepper  to  taste ; simmer  gently  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  strain  and 
put  in  the  meat,  and  four  hard-boiled  eggs,  sliced,  if  liked ; when 
heated  through,  thicken  gravy  with  a little  flour  made  smooth  with 
butter,  and  flavor  with  a tablespoon  mushroom  catsup ; or,  just  be- 
fore dishing,  add  beaten  yolks  ol  two  eggs  and  tablespoon  lemon 
juice ; be  careful  after  these  are  added  that  the  mixture  does  not 
boil  or  the  eggs  will  curdle.  To  insure  the  sauce  being  smooth  take 
up  the  meat  before  adding  eggs  and  when  the  eggs  are  set  turn  the 
sauce  over  the  meat.  Garnish  with  Force-meat  Balls  and  curled 
slices  of  broiled  bacon  Or  omit  all  seasonings  save  the  pepper  and 
salt  and  add  a halt  teaspoon  grated  nutmeg,  garnishing  with  parsley 
or  sliced  lemon,  or  sprinkling  chopped  parsley  over.  Some  put  in 
with  the  meat  the  cold  boiled  tongue,  sliced,  and  garnish  with  Brain 
Fritters  and  curled  bacon.  Two  anchovies  may  be  boiled  with  the 
onion,  which  is  sometimes  left  whole  and  stuck  with  three  cloves, 
omitting  the  herbs.  Sweet-breads,  if  at  hand,  may  be  sliced  and  put 
in  with  the  meat.  Both  the  brains  and  feet  may  be  used  in  a fricas- 
see as  follows  : Remove  the  brains  and  put  the  head  and  feet  in  salted 
water,  and  boil  two  hours.  When  they  have  boiled  nearly  an  hour 
and  a half,  tie  the  blanched  brains  in  a cloth  and  put  them  in  the 
pot  with  the  rest.  At  end  of  two  hours  take  the  whole  from  the  fire, 
mash  the  brains  fine  with  the  back  of  a spoon,  season  with  pepper 
and  salt,  add  bread-crumbs,  tablespoon  flavored  vinegar,  and  serve 
them  as  a sauce  for  the  meat.  Send  to  table  very  hot.  The  liquor 
that  remains  can  be  made  into  an  excellent  soup. 

Potted  Head. — Procure  half  a head  and  soak  it  in  salt  and  water, 
taking  care  to  cleanse  it  thoroughly  from  blood ; add  two  good  cow- 
heels,  Avell  cleaned.  Put  all  into  a large  stewpan,  cover  with  cold 
water  and  boil  till  tender ; strain  the  liquor  off,  and  when  cold  cut 
the  meat  into  very  small  pieces.  Skim  off  all  the  fat  from  the  water 
in  which  the  head  and  heels  were  boiled,  put  the  prepared  meat  wi.th 
it,  and  boil  the  whole  slowly  till  tender  and  thick — about  five  and 
a half  hours.  Then  boil  it  up  quickly,  add  pepper  and  salt  to  taste, 
and  a little  powdered  mace,  and  put  into  pots  as  in  Potted  Meats. 

Scalloped  Head. — After  boiling  till  meat  is  tender,  cut  in  small 
pieces  and  place  in  an  earthen  pudding  dish  a layer  of  bread-crumbs, 
season,  then  a layer  of  meat  with  bits  of  butter,  then  * crumbs,  and  so 
on,  with  crumbs  for  last  layer ; pour  a cup  of  the  broth  over  all  and 
bake  in  oven  till  heated  through  and  nicely  browned. 

Stewed  Head. — Cut  the  meat  from  a blanched  calf’s  head  into 
neat  slices,  and  simmer  gently  in  as  little  water  as  possible  two 
hours  ; take  out  the  pieces  of  meat,  place  on  a hot  dish,  and  cover 
them  with  tartare  sauce,to  which  the  juice  left  in  pan  has  been  added ; 


MEATS. 


545 


garnish  with  parsley.  Or  boil  the  head  before  boning,  then  bone 
and  cut  the  meat  in  pieces  two  inches  square.  Make  a sauce  by 
s'irring  together  in  saucepan  over  the  fire  two  tablespoons  each  but- 
ter and  flour  until  smoothly  blended  and  lightly  browned ; then 
gradually  add  a pint  of  the  hot  liquor  in  which  head  was  boiled, 
stirring  until  smooth ; season  with  quarter  of  a saltspoon  gratea 
nutmeg,  a saltspoon  salt,  and  pinch  cayenne.  When  sauce  begins 
to  bubble,  put  in  calf’s  head  and  heat  it ; then  move  to  back  of  range, 
stir  in  yolks  of  three  eggs,  one  at  a time,  and  serve  at  once.  Do  not 
let  the  sauce  boil  after  the  yolks  are  added,  or  they  may  curdle,  and 
spoil  its  appearance.  Garnish  with  sprigs  of  parsley,  or  a little 
chopped  parsley  may  be  sprinkled  over ; or  sliced  lemon  may^  be 
used.  Or  make  a sauce  by  boiling  together  a cup  broth  or  stock  in 
which  calf’s  head  was  boiled,  tablespoonful  butter,  six  of  vinegar, 
and  thicken  with  teaspoon  corn-starch,  adding  salt  and  cayenne. 
Put  in  the  pieces  of  calf’s  head  and  warm  through  without  boiling. 
Add  a chopped  gherkin  and  garnish  the  dish  with  quarters  of  hard- 
boiled  eggs,  or  a little  chopped  egg  sprinkled  over.  Or  boil  a pint 
milk,  thicken  slightly  with  flour,  add  pepper,  salt,  butter  and  a little 
mace ; have  both  the  meat  from  head  and  the  tongue  chopped  in 
small  pieces,  put  them  in  sauce  and  simmer  ten  minutes.  Serve  in 
hot  deep  dish  garnished  with  chopped  parsley  and  sliced  hard-boiled 
eggs.  An  addition  to  any  of  the  above  is  to  reserve  the  lower  jaw 
M hole,  bone  it,  single-bread  as  a chop,  sprinkling  over  a little  chopped 
parsley,  brown  in  oven  and  serve  on  center  of  stew.  . Another  excel- 
hmt  stew  is  prepared  by  boiling  the  head  in  salted  boiling  water  three 
hours,  remove  bones  and  cut  the  meat  in  about  half  dozen  same- 
sized pieces.  Boil  the  tongue  half  an  hour  and  the  liver  and  blanched 
brains  fifteen  minutes  in  quart  water  with  teaspoon  salt  and  table- 
spoon vinegar.  Put  a frying-pan  over  fire  with  butter  enough  to 
cover  bottom,  sprinkle  thickly  with  flour,  and  when  it  begins  to 
brown  put  in  the  pieces  of  head  with  part  of  the  liver,  sliced,  and 
brown  them,  keeping  tongue  and  brains  hot  in  broth  in  which  they 
were  boiled;  pour  over  head  and  liver  enough  broth  to  cover,  adding 
fimr  tablespoons  flavored  vinegar,  level  teaspoon  finely  powdered 
marjoram  or  any  herb,  level  saltspoon  each  powdered  mace,  nutmeg 
and  pepper,  a dust  of  cayenne  and  salt  to  taste ; stev/  gently  ten 
minutes,  meantime  making  some  Egg  Balls,  which  add  to  the  stew 
and  when  done  serve  in  deep  platter  garnished  with  tongue  and  re- 
mainder of  liver,  sliced,  and  brains  cut  in  two  or  three  pieces,  or 
made  into  Brain  Fritters.  When  a beef’s  head  is  to  be  used  it  should 
be  boned  the  day  before  it  is  wanted  and  laid  overnight  in  salt  and 
water.  Boil  gently  in  water  to  cover  until  tender,  then  slice  and  fry 
three  onions  in  a little  butter  and  flour  and  add  to  the  meat  with 
two  whole  onions,  each  stuck  with  three  cloves,  three  turnips,  quar- 
tered, two  sliced  carrots,  a bay  leaf,  head  of  celery,  bunch  of  herbs, 
and  seasoning  to  taste  of  cayenne,  black  pepper  and  salt.  Stew  till 
35 


546 


MEATS. 


perfectly  tender ; then  take  out  the  meat,  cut  in  pieces  ready  to  serve, 
skim  and  strain  the  gravy,  and  thicken  one  and  a half  pints  with  a 
tablespoon  butter  mixed  with  two  dessert-spoons  flour.  Add  two 
tablespoons  each  Chili  vinegar  and  mushroom  catsup,  and  same  of 
any  piquant  sauce  liked.  Boil  all  up  together,  and  serve  hot. 

Calfs  Head  Cheese. — Boil  the  head  till  tender,  and  keep  the 
broth  boiling  while  removing  the  meat  from  bones ; cut  tongue  in 
larger  bits,  the  rest  quite  small,  skim  the  broth  carefully  and  af- 
ter it  has  boiled  down  to  a little  over  a pint  put  in  some  salt,  a red 
pepper  cut  very  small,  and  some  chopped  parsley : then  add  the 
meat.  Put  all  in  a deep  dish  with  a plate  over  it,  and  a weight  on 
that  to  keep  it  pressed  down.  Slice  thin  and  serve  for  luncheon  or 
tea.  For  Spiced  Cheese  cook  as  above,  adding  spices  to  taste  while 
boiling;  when  partly  cold  add  cup  vinegar.  This  will  keep  a long' 
time  in  cold  weather.  For  Head  Croquettes,  boil  pint  milk,  add 
the  chopped  boiled  meat  from  the  head  and  the  parboiled  brain, 
seasoned  with  a little  mace,  salt  or  pepper,  and  parsley,  simmer  a 
few  minutes ; then  add  three  well-beaten  eggs  and  a teaspoon  corn- 
starch and  stir  quickly  to  mix  thoroughly.  Cook  about  five  min- 
utes and  cool  on  flat  dish , form  into  balls  or  cones,  single-bread 
and  fry  a delicate  brown  in  a wire  basket  as  illustrated, 
or  for  small  croquettes  one  made  of  woven-wire  is  bet- 
ter. Or  for  Spiced  Croquettes  cut  the  blanched  calf’s 
head  into  pieces  two  inches  wide ; lay  for  three  hours 
in  a pickle  made  of  three  tablespoons  each  lemon  juice 
and  water,  salt  and  pepper,  and  a pinch  of  mace.  Take 
them  out,  drain,  single-bread  and  fry  in  hot  fat,  and  send  to  table 
with  tartar  sauce.  Or  for  plain  Breakfast  Cakes  chop  the  boiled 
meat  fine  ; add  a small  onion  and  some  chopped  parsley.  Heat  cup 
broth,  put  in  chopped  meat,  let  boil,  and  thicken  with  a little  flour. 
Put  on  flat  dish  to  cool ; form  into  flat  cakes,  single-bread  and  fry 
till  brown  in  a frying-pan  with  a little  butter  or  drippings.  For 
Fritters,  make  batter  of  pint  milk,  two  eggs,  teaspoon  baking-pow- 
der, small  lump  of  ice  to  keep  batter  cool,  flour  enough  till  it  will 
drop,  not  run  from  spoon,  and  two  cups  of  chopped  meat  as  above. 
Fry  in  hot  fat.  A nice  cold  dish  is  made  from  a boiled  head  in  the  shape 
of  a Pie.  Cut  the  meat  into  slices.  At  bottom  of  dish  put  a layer 
of  cold  boiled  ham,  then  a layer  of  head,  with  a seasoning  of  pepper 
and  salt,  and  a little  brain  sauce.  Dot  the  layers  over  with  force- 
meat balls,  or  veal  stuffing,  and  slices  of  hard-boiled  egg ; add  a 
gravy  made  of  the  trimmings  of  veal,  and  flavored  with  onion,  herbs, 
mace  and  peppercorns.  Put  a good  thick  crust  on  the  pie,  and  bake 
in  a rather  slow  oven.  When  done,  the  pie  may  be  filled  up  with 
gravy.  Serve  cold. 

Ragout  of  Calf's  Head. — Fry  neat  slices  of  the  meat  from  cold 
boiled  calf’s  head  five  minutes  in  hot  butter  or  dripping  with  the 


MEATS 


547 


tongue  cut  in  round  slices.  Put  in  custard  kettle  to  keep  warm,  or 
in  saucepan  set  in  boiling  water  while  lightly  frying  a can  French 
mushrooms  and  a sliced  onion  in  pan  in  which  meat  was  fried; 
drain  them  ,and  lay  on  top  of  meat.  Have  ready  a cup  hot  broth, 
seasoned  with  salt,  pepper  and  sweet  herbs,  or  spices  if  liked,  pour 
this  hot  over  the  meat  and  mushrooms,  cover  closely  and  simmer 
fifteen  minutes  ; strain  off  gravy,  thicken  with  browned  flour,  boil 
up  once,  add  juice  of  a lemon  and  a little  flavored  vinegar,  take  up 
meat  and  mushrooms  in  deep  dish  and  pour  gravy  over  smoking- 
hot.  Strips  of  fried  toast  may  be  served  on  top  of  the  dish,  to  which 
sliced  hard-boiled  eggs  may  be  added  if  liked. 

Sweet-hreads. — These  are  the  most  delicate  and  expensive  parts 
of  meat,  and  the  choicest  are  Veal  Sweet-breads.  See  Marketing  for 
suggestions  for  buying ; and  Cutting  and  Curing  Meats  for  directions 
about  blanching  and  parboiling.  It  is  more  convenient  to  prepare 
them  the  day  before  wanted,  as  they  must  always  be  first  thoroughly 
cooked  and  cooled,  before  making  into  any  of  the  following  recipes. 

Baked  Sweet-hreads. — Prepare  as  directed,  then  double-bread, 
put  in  baking-pan  with  lump  of  butter  on  each  and  bake  in  oven 
until  brown,  basting  with  veal  gravy.  Dish  on  toast  or  fried  bread 
with  the  gravy,  flavored  with  tablespoon  mushroom  catsup,  poured 
over.  Or  simply  spread  with  butter,  dredge  with  salt,  pepper  and 
flour  and  bake.  Or,  after  parboiling,  lard  with  very  narrow  strips 
of  fat  salt  pork  not  larger  than  a toothpick,  taking  deep,  long  stitches 
or  they  will  break  out,  and  roast  brown  in  a moderate  oven,  basting 
often  with  butter  and  water.  Serve  with  white  sauce  or  tomato  sauce 
poured  over.  For  Sweet-hreads  with  Green  Pease.;  lard  five  sweet- 
breads as  above,  put  on  fire  with  half  pint  water,  and  let  stew  slowly 
for  half  an  hour,  take  out  and  put  in  a small  dripping-pan  with  a 
little  butter  and  a sprinkle  of  flour;  brown  slightly,  add  half  a gill 
milk  and  water,  and  season  with  pepper ; heat  a half  pint  of  cream, 
and  stir  it  in  the  gravy  in  pan.  Have  pease  ready  boiled  and  sea- 
soned, place  the  sweet-breads  in  the  center  of  the  dish,  pour  the  gravy 
over,  and  put  pease  around.  Or  serve  the  pease  heaped  in  center 
with  sweet-breads  around,  and  gravy  poured  round  edge  of  dish. 
Some  parboil  in  quart  water,  teaspoon  salt  and  tablespoon  vinegar, 
then  throw  into  cold  water  and  when  cold,  lard  as  above,  put  in  bak- 
ing pan  on  top  of  layer  of  trimmings  of  pork,  and  put  over  them  a 
little  onion,  four  or  five  slices  carrot,  half  stalk  celery  and  sprig  of 
parsley,  all  chopped  fine,  and  pepper  and  salt.  Bake  twenty  minutes 
in  hot  oven.  Cut  a slice  of  bread  into  an  oval  or  any  fancy  shape, 
and  fry  in  a little  hot  butter,  browning  well ; put  this  in  center  of 
hot  platter,  on  which  place  the  sweetbreads  and  serve  pease  or  toma- 
to sauce  around.  Baked  Sweet-hreads  with  Orange  Juice  form  a 
very  elegant  dish.  Parboil  and  blanch  sweet-breads  as  directed,  score 
them  deeply  on  top,  lay  in  a buttered  baking  pan,  season  with  salt 


648 


MEATS. 


and  pepper,  and  squeeze  juice  of  a sour  orange  over  them,  quickly 
brown  in  hot  oven ; pour  over  the  drippings  from  the  pan  and  gar- 
nish with  sliced  sour  oranges ; serve  hot. 

Broiled  Sweet-breads. — Prepare  as  directed ; cut  into  thin  slices 
spread  plenty  of  butter  over  them  and  broil  over  hot  coals,  turning 
often.  Or  split  each  in  half  lengthwise  and  broil,  turning  every  min- 
ute as  they  begin  to  drip.  Have  ready  on  deep  plate  some  melted 
butter  well  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper  and  mixed  with  catsup  or 
pungent  sauce.  When  the  sweet-breads  are  done  a fine  brown  lay 
them  in  this,  turn  over  several  times  and  set  closely  covered  in  warm 
oven  for  a few  minutes.  Serve  very  hot  on  rounds  of  fried  bread  or 
toast,  with  the  seasoned  hot  butter  over  them.  Or  after  parboiling 
single-bread  them  and  broil.  Serve  with  a cream  sauce  poured  round 
them,  and  garnish  with  water-cresses. 

Fricasseed  Sweet  breads. — For  a white  fricassee  prepare  as  di- 
rected and  cut  in  slices.  To  a pint  of  veal  gravy  add  a thickening 
of  flour  and  butter,  tablespoon  cream,  half  teaspoon  mushroom 
powder,  and  grated  lemon-peel,  nutmeg  and  white  pepper  to  taste? ; 
stew  ten  minutes,  add  the  sweet-breads  and  let  them  simmer  tw'enty 
minutes.  Dish,  add  salt,  grated  lemo-n-peel,  stir,  and  serve.  Or 
put  the  sweet-breads  in  the  broth  without  thickening,  season  with 
pepper  and  salt  and  a very  little  onion  if  liked  j sprinkle  with  nut- 
meg, cover  closely  and  stew  steadily  an  hour,  if  of  fair  size  and  to  be 
served  whole.  If  they  have  been  sliced,  three-quarters  of  an  hour 
will  be  sufficient.  Heat  four  tablespoons  vinegar  in  another  sauce- 
pan, but  do  not  boil,  take  from  fire  and  stir  in  carefully  three  beaten 
eggs,  Add  this  to  sweet-breads  just  before  dishing,  leaving  in  just 
long  enough  to  cook  the  eggs,  but  do  not  boil.  Stir  in  teaspoon 
chopped  parsley  and  serve  in  hot  covered  dish.  For  a Brown 
Fricassee  slice  an  onion  and  pint  mushrooms  and  fry  quickly  in 
quarter  cup  hot  butter  a fine  brown.  Strain  butter  from  these  and 
return  to  pan,  adding  another  quarter  cup  butter  and  when  very 
hot  put  in  four  sliced  sweet-breads,  and  fry  three  minutes,  turn- 
ing constantly.  Meanwhile  have  the  fried  onions  and  mushiooms 
stewing  in  two  cups  brown  gravy — veal  is  best.  Pour  this  gravy 
when  sweet-breads  are  ready,  in  jar  or  tin  pail  with  closely-fitting  top  ; 
set  in  pot  of  boiling  water,  taking  care  there  is  not  enough  to  bubble 
over  the  top  ; put  in  the  sliced  sweet-breads,  cover,  and  stew  gently 
on  back  of  range  twenty  minutes — half  an  hour  should  the  sweet- 
breads be  large.  Thicken  the  gravy  with  browned  flour,  arrange  the 
slices  symmetrically  upon  a hot  platter,  pour  the  gravy  over  and 
garnish  with  croutons  of  fried  bread.  Or  cut  into  thin  slices,  let 
simmer  slowly  in  the  brown  gravy  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  and 
add  a well-beaten  egg,  two  tablespoons  cream  and  one  of  chopped 
parsley;  stir  all  together  for  a few  minutes,  and  serve  im- 
mediately Or  cut  up  remainder  of  cooked  sweet-bread  in  small 


MEATS. 


549 


pieces  ; prepare  a gravy  by  melting  two  tablespoons  butter,  stirring 
in  tablespoon  browned  flour,  and  adding  cup  soup  stock  or  water ; 
lay  pieces  sweetbread  in  pan  with  gravy,  season  with  pepper  and 
salt,  and  boil  up  once.  Garnish  with  sliced  lemon  or  croutons. 

Fried  Sweet-breads. — Prepare  as  directed  and  when  perfectly 
cold  cut  lengthwise  into  slices  quarter  of  an  inch  thick.  Have 
tablespoon  butter  hot  in  frying-pan,  put  in  sweet-breads  and  cook 
ten  minutes,  turning  all  the  while ; then  add  cup  brown  veal  or  fowl 
gravy,  tablespoon  mushroom  or  tomato  catsup,  tablespoon  chopped 
onion  and  parsley,  mixed,  with  pepper  and  salt,  all  previously  heated 
together.  Stir  at  boiling  heat  five  minutes  and  serve  in  hot  dish. 
Or  roll  the  sweet-breads  in  flour  seasoned  Avith  salt  and  pepper,  fry 
brown  in  hot  butter  and  serve  with  mushroom  sauce  poured  round 
them.  Or  for  Larded  Sioeet-breads^  prepare  as  directed  and  lard 
with  narroAV  strips  of  salt,  fat  pork,  put  a very  little  butter  or  lard  in 
frying-pan, when  hot,  lay  in  SAveet-breads  and  fry  a crisp  brown,  turn- 
ing often.  Garnish  with  crisped  parsley.  To  serve  Avith  gravy,  turn 
out  all  but  teaspoon  drippings,  stir  into  this  a cup  cream  or  milk 
thickened  with  little  flour,  add  pepper  and  salt,  and  when  cooked 
through  strain  over  the  sweet-breads  neatly  arranged  on  plate  alone 
or  alternate  with  stuffed  tomatoes.  Or  serve  Avith  green  pease,  bbiled 
rice,  or  stewed  mushrooms,  cauliflowers  or  asparagus  in  center  and 
sweet-breads  around.  The  larding  may  be  omitted,  frying  and  serv* 
ing  the  same  way. 

Skewered.  Sweet-breads. — Prepare  as  directed  and  cut  into  slices 
about  half  an  inch  or  more  thick  ; sprinkle  them  Avith  pepper  and  salt, 

. single-bread  them  ; run  a little  skeAver  through  two  of  these 
Skewer.  sliccs,  alternating  Avith  two  thin,  square  slices  of  bacon  and 
fry  in  A^ery  hot  lard ; serve  a tomato  or  cream  sauce  in  center,  and 
garnish  with  parsley.  Serve  one  skewer  to  each  person  at  table. 

Stewed  Sweet-breads. — Prepare  two  sweet-breads,  as  directed 
place  in  stewpan,  cover  with  stock,  and  simmer  nearly  an  hour ; 
take  out,  place  on  hot  dish,  remove  gravy  from  fire  a minute,  and 
add  gradually  yolk  of  an  egg  and  four  tablespoons  cream  ; stir  ovet 
fire  till  the  sauce  thickens,  but  do  not  let  boil.  Before  serving  add 
juice  of  a lemon,  pour  the  sauce  around  sweet-breads,  and  send  to 
table  with  dish  of  green  pease.  SteAved  either  Avhole  or  cut  in  dice 
sweet-hreads  are  nice  served  Avith  BroAvn  Mushroom  Sauce.  If  served 
Avhole  lay  the  SAveet-breads  on  the  sauce  ; if  diced  mix  them  through 
it  just  before  serving.  Or  stew  sweet-breads  in  oyster  liquor  till  ten- 
der, season  with  salt  and  pepper,  add  tablespoon  butter  and  a few 
oysters  and  pour  over  moist  buttered  toast.  Or  after  parboiling  and 
blanching  put  four  large  sweet-breads  on  tAvo  cauliflowers  in  stewpan, 
season  with  a little  cayenne  and  nutmeg,  cover  with  water,  put  on 
lid  and  stew  one  hour.  Beat  two  tablespoons  flour  with  half  cup 


550 


MEATS. 


butter  and  add  to  the  stew  with  a cup  milk,  boil  up  once  and  serve 
immediately  in  hot  dish.  Or  cook  tomatoes  in  their  own  juice  until 
tender,  strain  through  a sieve,  and  put  back  in  pan  with  four  or  five 
sweet-breads,  previously  blanched  and  parboiled ; , add  tablespoon 
flour  mixed  with  two  of  butter,  cayenne  and  salt,  and  stew  until 
sweet-l)reads  are  done.  Just  before  taking  up  stir  in  beaten  yolks  of 
two  eggs.  S '”ve  in  deep  dish.  Or  for  Larded  Sweetbreads  prepare 
tw'o  or  th  V swpet-breads  as  usual,  when  cool  lard  them  and  put  in 
stew])an  with  half  pint  veal  stock,  white  p pper  and  salt  to  taste, 
small  bunch  young  onions,  blade  pounded  mace,  and  thickening  of 
butter  and  flour  and  stew  gently  twenty  minutes.  Beat  two  eggs 
vritli  half  pint  cream  and  add  with  teaspoon  minced  parsley  and  lit- 
tle grated  nutmeg  ; heat  through,  but  do  not  boil  again  or  cream  will 
curdle.  Stir  in  some  boiled  asparagus  tops  and  serve  hot.  Or. 
omit  the  eggs,  cream,  onions  and  parsley,  and  flavor  with  mush- 
room catsup  and  juice  of  half  a lemon. 

Sweet-bread  Croquettes. — Single-bread  three  slices  of  prepared 
sweet-breads  and  fr3ms  croquettes,  either  in  butter  or  drippings  in  fry- 
ing-pan , or  b}^  dropping  in  kettle  hot  fat.  Or,  with  Mushrooms^  cut  two 
sweet-breads  into  dice  ; cut  a half  box  or  four  mush-  > -- 
rooms  into  dice  also  ; put  tablespoon  and  a half  but- 
ter  in  saucepan  and  when  it  browns  stir  in  two  table- 
spoons  flour  and  stir  and  cook  until  smooth  ; then  sweeJbread  croquette.s. 
stir  in  a gill  good  stock  or  cream,  add  the  diced  mushrooms  and 
sweet-breads,  anc.  when  thoroughly  heated  take  from  fire  and  add 
beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs ; return  to  fire  a moment  to  “set”  the 
3mlks,  but  do  not  boil.  When  cool  form  into  rolls  or  any  shape 
liked,  (see  Croquettes)  double-bread  them  and  fry  by  dropping  in 
kettle  of  hot  fat.  The}"  may  be  served  alone  or  with  pease,  or  tomato 
or  bechamel  sauce.  Sv^eet-breaA  Fritters^VicQ  sweet-breads  thin 
sprinkle  over  grated  nutmeg  and  chopped  parsley,  dip  into  a batter 
made  'of  one  cup  each  milk  and  flour,  one  egg,  a pinch  of  salt,  and  a 
half  teaspoon  baking-powder,  and  fry  in  hot  fat.  For  Sweet-bread, 
and  Oyster  Pie  boil  sweet-breads  tender ; season  with  pepper  and 
salt ; make  a grav}^  w"ith  the  water  in  which  they  were  boiled,  adding 
half  cup  butter,  yolks  of  two  eggs,  and  tablespoon  flour.  Line  bak- 
ing dish  with  puff-paste ; have  same  quantity  of  oysters  as  sweet- 
breads, and  fill  the  dish  with  gravy ; put  on  top  crust  with  a hole  in 
■•.enter  and  bake  slowly  until  done. 

Sioeet-bread  Sandimches. — Parboil  and  blanch  two  sweet-breads, 
wipe  them  drv,  mince,  season  with  pepper  and  salt,  work  in  a table- 
spoon melted  butter,  and  spread  between  buttered  bread.  The  two 
sweet-breads  will  make  six  sandwiches,  or  mixed  with  an  equal  quan- 
tity of  chopped  ham,  a dozen. 

Sweet-bread  Yol-au-  Vents. — Prepare  as  directed,  and  when  cool 
cut  sweet-breads  into  dice,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  dredge 


MEATS. 


551 


with  flour.  Have  in  a basin  two  or  three  dozen  stewed,  drained 
oysters,  small  teacup  stewed  button  mushrooms,  one  dozen  or  more 
olives,  pared  in  one  piece  close  to  the  kernel.  Put  a quarter-pound 
butter  in  stewpan,  melt  and  add  two  tablespoons  flour,  stirring  well, 
and  pouring  in  stock  gradually  until  the  sauce  is  of  creamy  consis- 
tency ; season  with  salt,  pepper  or  cayenne,  and  a 
very  little  grated  nutmeg  ; put  in  the  sweet-breads, 
stirring  to  prevent  browning ; when  thoroughly 
Sweetbread voi-au  Vents  heated  add  oue  after  the  other,  the  oysters,  mush- 
rooms, and  olives,  and  a tablespoon  tarragon  vinegar ; stir  and  heat 
up  again,  but  do  not  let  boil.  Serve  in  any  of  the  shells,  as  given  in 
pastry,  or  in  little  Rice  Molds  made  by  boiling  rice  until  it  can  be 
worked  into  smooth  paste  with  a spoon.  Fill  small  buttered  gem 
tins  or  patty-pans  with  this  and  when  quite  cold  take  out,  brush 
over  with  little  butter  and  brown  in  oven ; then  scoop  out  inside 
leaving  a rice  crust  quarter  of  an  inch  thick.  These  may  also  be 
filled  with  sweet-breads  simply  cut  in  small  pieces  and  a spoonful 
cream  dressing  added  to  each  shell,  sifted  over  with  bread-crumbs 
and  set  in  oven  to  brown ; paper  cases  may  also  be  used. 

Force-meats. — These  are  also  known  as  ‘Tarces,”  “stuffings”  and 
“dressings”  and  are  most  used  for  stuffing  meats,  game  and  poultry, 
but  are  also  often  cooked  separately  and  served  as  a bed  or  border 
for  entrees,  or  formed  into  square  or  oval  piece  for  center  of  dish. 
For  the  latter,  the  mixture  should  be  made  into  any  shape  fancied, 
about  an  inch  and  a half  thick,  and  steamed  in  buttered  paper  or 
plate  two  hours.  When  done,  slip  on  center  of  dish,  arrange  the 
entree  on  it  and  pour  the  sauce  around  the  base.  Delicate  cutlets, 
sweet-breads,  etc.,  are  served  thus.  Veal  or  chicken  force-meat  is 
best  for  all  light  entrees.  Force-meats  may  also  be  made  into  balls 
and  poached  or  fried  for  soup  or  ga,rnishes.  In  making  force-meats 
be  careful  not  to  use  so  much  of  any  one  flavor  as  to  overcome  all 
others,  and  unless  for  very  savory  dishes,  pepper  should  be  sparingly 
used.  The  force-meat  should  be  thick  enough  to  cut  with  a knife, 
but  not  dry  and  heavy!  Bacon  or  butter  should  always  be  substi- 
tuted for  suet  when  the  force-meat  is  to  be  eaten  cold.  Any  left 
from  stuffing  fowls  or  meat  may  be  made  into  balls,  fried  and  used 
as  a garnish.  To  make  Quenelles  of  Force-meat.,  have  two  table- 
spoons or  teaspoons,  according  to  size  quenelles  are  wanted;  fill  one 
of  them  with  force-meat,  dip  the  other  into  boiling  water,  and  with 
it  remove  the  force-meat  from  the  first  spoon,  and  slip  it  from  that 
into  a buttered  frying-pan,  proceeding  thus  until  all  are  done  ; then 
cover  them  with  stock,  and  boil  about  ten  minutes,  or  until  firm, 
and  they  are  ready  for  use. 

Almond  Force-meat. — Beat  yolks  of  three  eggs  with  quarter 
pint  cream  and  flavor ’with  little  nutmeg.  Blanch  and  pound  in 
mortar  three  ounces  sweet  almonds,  moistened  with  white  of  egg 


552 


MEATS. 


and  add  to  eggs  and  cream  with  three-fourths  pint  sifted  bread- 
crumbs and  three  tablespoons  butter  in  small  bits ; stir  in  lastly 
frothed  whites  of  three  eggs.  A nice  stuffing  for  poultry. 

Chestnut  Force-meat. — Shell  and  blanch  a half  pound  chest- 
nuts and  stew  gently  twenty  minutes  in  veal  gravy.  When  cold, 
pound  in  mortar  till  smooth  with  same  quantity  butter, add  two  cups 
sifted  bread-crumbs,  a little  salt,  grated  lemon  rind  and  nutmeg  and 
bind  together  with  unbeaten  yolks  of  two  eggs.  A very  excellent 
stuffing  for  turkey  or  goose.  When  made  into  balls,  they  must  be 
rolled  in  flour  before  frying. 

French  Force-meat. — Chop  very  fine  a pound  each  uncooked 
veal  and  ham  with  a quarter  pound  pork  and  six  mushrooms  if 
liked,  and  with  a pestle,  pound  to  powder.  Cook  a pint  bread- 
crumbs and  quart  milk  together,  stirring  often  until  bread  is  soft 
and  sniooth.  Set  away  to  cool,  first  adding  half  cup  butter,  three 
tablespoons  onion  juice  and  salt  and  pepper.  When  cold,  add  to 
powdered  meat,  mix  thoroughly,  and  rub  through  a sieve,  then  add 
yolks  of  four  eggs.  This  is  used  for  borders  in  which  to  serve  hot 
entrees  of  game.  It  is  also  used  in  game  pies,  and  sometimes  for 
Quenelles.  When  to  be  used  for  border  put  in  well-buttered  mold 
and  steam  three  hours.  Then  turn  out  on  flat  dish,  and  serve  the 
meat  in  center.  The  French  also  add  a calf’s  udder  boiled,  chopped 
fine  and  pounded. 

Game  Force-meoA. — Pound  the  livers  of  the  game  with  ' half 
their  weight  of  beef  suet  and  good  fat  bacon,  mixed  together ; season 
with  salt,  pepper,  and  ground  cloves.  Use  a little  game  meat  if  not 
enough  liver ; moisten  with  cream,  and  bind  with  yolks  of  two  eggs. 
If  the  force-meat  is  wanted  stiff,  stew  over  a gentle  fire,  stirring  con- 
stantly till  of  proper  consistency. 

Ham  Force-meat. — Two  pounds  cooked  ham,  chopped,  and' 
then  pounded  very  fine  ; one  pound  bread-crumbs,  one  pint  milk, 
yolks  of  four  eggs,  tablespoon  mixed  mustard,  teaspoon  salt,  a speck 
of  cayenne,  one  cup  brown  sauce.  Make  as  French  Force-meat. 

Lobster  Force-meat. — Pound  the  flesh  of  a medium-sized  lobster 
with  half  an  anchovy,  a piece  of  boiled  celery,  the  yolk  of  a hard- 
boiled  egg,  salt,  pepper,  and  cayenne  to  taste.  Mix  with  a table- 
spoon bread-crumbs,  two  of  butter,  and  two  raw  eggs.  Two  or  three, 
oysters  may  be  added  if  desired.  Stuff  boiled  or  baked  fish  with 
the  force-meat,  or  make  into  balls,  fry  a pale  brown  in  butter  and 
serve  as  a garnish  for  fish ; or  poach  them  for  Fish  Soup. 

Mushroom  Force-meat. — Peel  a quarter  pound  young  fresh 
mushrooms  and  cut  off  stems.  Beat  two  tablespoons  butter  in  stew- 
pan,  put  in  mushrooms  with  a little  mace  and  cayenne  and  simmer 
gently  till  tender,  then  drain  on  a sieve  and  when  cold  chop  fine,. 


MEATS. 


553 


add  a cup  sifted  bread-crumbs,  slight  seasoning  cayenne,  mace,  nut- 
meg and  salt,  piece  of  butter  and  yolks  of  two  eggs,  with  enough  of 
the  gravy  from  stewpan  to  make  the  whole  of  proper  consistency. 
A dainty  stuffing  for  fowls,  and  nice  if  made  into  balls,  poached  and 
served  in  soup.  Or  fry  the  balls  and  use  as  a garnish  for  roast  fowl 
or  minced  veal. 

Oyster  Force-meat. — Sift  a half  pint  bread-crumbs,  and  add 
tablespoon  and  a. half  finely  minced  suet,  or  butter  cut  in  small  bits, 
bunch  of  savory  herbs,  quarter  salt-spoon  nutmeg  and  pepper  and 
salt ; mix  well  and  add  eighteen  oysters,  coarsely  chopped,  and  two 
well-beaten  eggs.  Work  all  together  with  the  hand  until  smoothly 
mixed.  Especially  nice  for  stuffing  turkey. 

Sausage  Force-meat. — Take  a half  pound  each  of  lean  and 
fat  pork,  both  weighed  after  being  chopped  (beef  suet  may  be  sub- 
stituted for  the  latter),  half  pint  bread-crumbs,  small  tablespoon 
minced  sage,  blade  of  mace,  pounded,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and 
one  egg.  Chop  meat  and  fat  very  fine,  mix  with  them  the  other  in- 
gredients, taking  care  that  the  whole  is  thoroughly  incorporated. 
Moisten  with  the  egg,  and  stuff  a turkey  or  any  game  or  meat. 

Suet  Force-meat. — Chop  half  pound  beef  suet  very  fine,  add 
same  quantity  bread-crumbs,  tablespoon  chopped  parsley,  little 
powdered  thyme,  and  majoram,  grated  rind  and  juice  of  half  a lem- 
on, salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg  to  taste,  and  mix  with  three  whole  eggs. 
A good  stuffing  for  veal,  and  nice  also  for  turkey  and  baked  fish, 
with  more  chopped  parsley. 

Yeal  Force-meat. — Chop  a pound  veal  and  half  pound  salt  pork ; 
mix  with  one  pound  sifted  bread-crumbs,  a little  cut  parsley,  sweet 
marjoram,  three  tablespoons  of  butter,  two  well-beaten  eggs,  and 
pepper.  Or  take  three  pounds  of  veal,  cup  butter,  pint  each  bread- 
crumbs, milk  and  white  sauce,  two  tablespoons  salt,  half  teaspoon 
pepper,  two  tablespoons  each  bottled  sauce,  onion  juice  and  chop- 
ped parsley,  yolks  of  six  eggs  and  half  teaspoon  grated  nutmeg. 
Make  and  use  same  as  French  Force-meat.  Nice  for  fish.  Chicken 
and  Fish  Force-meats  made  same  as  last  recipe,  using  only  the 
breast  of  chicken  and  cream  instead  of  milk  for  the  former.  Salmon 
and  halibut  are  best  for  the  fish  force-meat,which  is  used  for  entrees  of 
fish  only.  For  an  excellent  Sweet-hread  Force-meat  take  equal  parts 
lean  veal  and  pork,  and  mince  finely  together ; cut  into  pieces  a par- 
boiled veal  sweet-bread,  and  mix  with  about  three-quarters  pound 
each  of  former  meats.  Add  a half  pound  bread,  soaked,  and  the 
same  amount  soft  butter.  Flavor  with  a little  nutmeg,  salt,  pepper 
and  half  an  ounce  grated  lemon  rind.  Bind  with  three  beaten  eggs, 
and  use  for  turkey. 

Bread  and  Onion  Force-meat. — Fry  together  two  tablespoons 
sweet  drippings  or  butter,  one  of  chopped  parsley,  and  about  four  oi 


554 


MEATS. 


chopped  onion ; season  with  one  level  tablespoon  each  powdered 
sage,  thyme  and  salt,  and  a level  teaspoon  pepper.  Soak  half  pound 
dry  bread  in  tepid  water  five  minufes,  then  wring  it  dry  in  a towel ; 
add  to  the  onion  and  herbs  and  stir  until  scalding  hot,  add  the  par- 
boiled and  chopped  liver  of  a fowl,  yolks  of  two  eggs,  half  pint 
boiling  milk  or  water,  and  use  as  stuffing  for  poultry  or  pork.  When 
for  the  latter  omit  the  liver  or  use  about  same  quantity  of  pig’s  liver 
if  obtainable.  Or  soak  three  ordinary-sized  slic^  of  bread  in  cold 
water,  wring  dry  in  a towel,  and  add  to  a tablespoon  chopped  onion 
fried  brown  in  tablespoon  butter,  with  a saltspoon  salt,  quarter  salt- 
spoon  each  pepper  and  powdered  thyme  or  mixed  spices,  and  stir 
over  fire  until  scalding  hot ; take  off  and  strain  in  yolk  of  one  raw^ 
egg  and  use  for  stuffing  breast  of  veal,  lamb  or  poultry. 

Sage  and  Onion  Force-meat. — Pare  four  onions,  and  parboil  in 
three  different  waters ; soak  two  or  three  times  as  much  stale  bread 
in  tepid  water,  and  wring  dry  in  a towel ; scald  ten  sage  leaves ; 
when  onions  are  tender,  which  will  be  in  about  half  an  hour,  chop 
them  with  the  sage  leaves  and  add  them  to  the  bread,  with  table- 
spoon butter,  yolks  of  two  raw  eggs,  level  teaspoon  salt,  and  half 
saltspoon  pepper ; mix  thoroughly  and  stuff  roast  pork  or  poultry. 

Force-meat  Balls. — Chop  with  a quarter  pound  beef  suet  little 
lemon  peel  and  parsley  and  mix  with  a pint  and  a half  sifted  bread- 
crumbsj  season  with  pepper,  salt  and  nutmeg  and  moisten  with  yolks 
of  two  eggs  ; make  into  small  balls  and  bake  on  buttered  tin  or  fry 
in  hot  fat  till  crisp,  Add  a little  finely  chopped  ham,  if  at  hand. 

Frogs. — Only  the  hind  legs  of  frogs  are  used  and  these  are  con- 
sidered a great  delicacy.  They  must  be  skinned  and  blanched  before 
cooking  as  follows  : Drop  them  in  salted  boiling  water,  to  which 
some  add  a little  lemon  juice,  boil  three  or  four  minutes,  put  in  cold 
water  a few  minutes,  then  take  out  and  drain.  They  may  be  broiled 
or  prepared  after  the  recipes  given. 

Fricasseed  Frogs. — Put  in  stewpan  two  tablespoons  butter,  for 
two  dozen  frogs ; when  melted  lay  in  two  dozen  blanched  legs ; fry 
two  minutes,  stirring  almost  constantly;  then  sprinkle  teaspoon 
flour  over  and  stir  all  with  wooden  spoon ; add  two  sprigs  parsley, 
one  of  thyme,  a bay  leaf,  two  cloves,  one  of  garlic,  salt,  white  pep- 
per, and  half  pint  stock  or  water  and  two  tablespoons  lemon  juice ; 
boil  gently  till  done ; dish  the  legs,  reduce  the  sauce  by  boiling,  strain, 
mix  in  yolks  of  two  eggs,  pour  over  the  legs  and  serve.  Or  fry  a 
dozen  pairs  blanched  legs  with  a little  fresh  butter  and  very  little 
minced  shallot  or  onion  until  the  butter  begins  to  brown,  then  add 
two  tablespoons  each  cold  water  and  flavored  vinegar  mixed,  and 
cup  hot  water.  Stew  with  cover  on  twenty  minutes,  then  skim  off 
most  of  butter  and  add  seasoning  of  salt  and  cayenne.  Thicken 
the  liquor  with  four  yolks  of  eggs  beaten  with  two  tablespoons  cream. 


MEATS. 


555 


Pour  some  of  the  hot  liquor  to  the  yolks  before  putting  in  saucepan, 
and  take  from  the  fire  almost  immediately,  or  as  soon  as  it  shows 
the  first  sign  of  boiling  again.  Place  the  frogs  neatly  in  disband 
strain  the  sauce  over  them.  Frogs  can  also  be  plainly  stewed  like 
chickens,  without  the  vinegar  and  thickening. 

Fried  Frogs. — Fry  the  blanched  legs  in  little  butter  in  frying- 
pan  and  serve  nicely  arranged  in  dish  of  tomato  sauce,  garnished 
with  croutons,  or  double-bread  them,  put  in  frying  basket  and  im- 
merse in  hot  fat.  Put  a frill  of  paper  around  bone  of  each  and  serve 
very  hot  in  a circle  overlapping  one  another  round  a platter  with 
pease  in  center.  Or  for  Frog  Salad  soak  two  dozen  legs  in  slightly 
salted  water  an  hour  and  a half ; drain,  stew  slowly  in  hot  water 
until  quite  tender,  drain  off  water  and  cover  with  milk.  Let  this 
come  to  a boil ; drain  and  cool ; remove  bones,  cut  up  meat  and  add 
an  equal  quantity  of  cut  celery,  place  on  platter,  cover  with  mayon- 
naise dressing  and  garnish  with  little  tufts  of  shrimps,  and  green 
herbs,  alternated  with  hard-boiled  eggs  quartered  lengthwise. 

Frog  Saddles. — Take  the  entire  hind  quarters  of  the  frogs,  cook 
in  water  a few  minutes,  or  Aic  Court  Bouillion  like  fish,  page  253 ; 
then  roll  in  flour,  then  in  beaten  egg  with  a spoonful  water,  then  coat 
well  in  cracker  dust.  Fry  like  fritters.  Cut  square  slices  of  buttered 
toast  across  diagonally,  making  triangular  pieces  ; place  two  on  a 
dish,  che  broad  bases  together  in  the  middle  and  points  at  the  ends 
and  frogs  on  the  toast  in  corresponding  manner.  Ornament  with 
sliced  lemon  and  parsley. 


Grravies. 


Gravies  are  considered  an  indispensable  accompaniment  to  all 
meats  and  “ made  dishes  ” from  meat  by  professional  cooks,  but  few 
housekeepers  give  their  preparation  the  thought  and  attention  neces- 
sary to  make  them  in  the  perfection  so  easily  attained  wuth  very  little 
expenditure  of  time  or  means.  The  making  of  gravy  to  serve  with 
a roast  or  other  freshly  cooked  meat  is  a very  simple  matter  indeed, 
as  will  be  seen  from  the  recipes  given.  But  for  every-day  conveni- 
ence, and  in  order  to  be  able  to  get  up  appetizing  little  dishes  at  a 
moment’s  notice  when  an  unexpected  guest  arrives,  every  house- 
keeper should  keep  on  hand  a supply  of  stock,  or  glaze,  which  is 
“condensed  gravy,”  and  for  which  a recipe  is  given  later.  But  in- 
stead of  buying  meat  for  gravy  stock  the  economical  housewife  will 
save  for  the  purpose  all  bones  and  trimmings  from  meat,  even  bits 


556 


<1}EAVIES. 


of  gristle  and  skin,  and  with  the  stock-pot  in  her  mind’s  eye  will 
carefully  trim  off  from  all  roasts  before  putting  in  the  oven  many 
bits  that  will  add  richness  to  gravy,  which  would  otherwise  crisp 
and  go  to  waste  in  the  baking  pan.  ' All  bones  and  trimmings  from 
cold  meat  should  be  saved  for  ^his  purpose  also.  Thus  a roast 
served  hot  one  day  is  sliced  cold  the  next,  and  perhaps  also  a part 
is  made  into  some  one  of  the  dainty  dishes  given  in  Cold  Meats, 
while  the  bones  are  carefuLy  broken  or  chopped  and  with  the  trim- 
mings and  other  bits  of  meat  at  hand  are  put  over  the  fire  with 
sufncient  cold  water  and  simmered  slowly  until  all  juices  and  gela- 
tinous parts  are  extracted.  If  cut  into  small  bits  this  is  effected 
much  more  quickly.  Any  vegetables,  herbs  or  spices  of  which  the 
flavor  IS  liked  maybe  boiled  with  the  meat,  which  should  cook  until 
the  liquor  is  reduced  one  half,  or  is  a tolerably  rich  gravy.  Then 
strain,  set  away  to  become  cold,  and  before  reheating  for  use  remove 
all  fat  that  rises  to  the  top,  for  grease  is  not  gravy,  and  an  otherwise 

excellent  dish  is  often  spoiled  by  an  oily 
coating  or  swimming  globules  of  grease. 
The  stock  will  keep  better,  ho’wever,  if  the 
fat  is  left  on  top  until  wanted  for  use.  To 
make  the  gravy  heat  the  stock  to  boil- 
ing in  a lipped  saucepan  as  it  is  so  much  easier  from  which  to  pour ; 
season  with  pepper  and  salt  and  flavor  with  any  spices,  catsups  or 
sauces  liked,  being  careful  not  to  overpower  the  flavor  of  the  gravy 
itself,  add  thickening  of  Roux,  or  Browned  Flour,  or  if  neither  is 
at  hand  a little  flour,  corn-starch  or  arrowToot  mixed  smooth  with  a 
little  cold  water  and  pinch  sugar,  let  boil  well  and  serve,  either  poured 
over  or  around  a dish  of  meat  or  vegetables  or  sent  on  with  it  in 
gravy-boat ; or  serve  as  directed  in  recipes  for  Meats  and  Cold  Meats. 
This  prepared  stock  may  be  used  for  the  foundation  in  any  of 
the  gravy  recipes  that  follow,  saving  the  time  required  for  cooking 
the  ingredients  as  given  above.  Stock  will  keep  several  days  in 
CO  id  weather,  or  if  set  in  ice-box  in 
summer.  Or  gravy  may  be  prepared 
in  small  quantities  each  day  as  needed 
with  a little  forethought  when  clearing 
awa}^  the  breakfast.  Save  all  liquor 
from  boiled  meat  for  stock,  and  keep  any  gravy  left  over  to.  serve 
again  with  the  addition  of  stock  and  more  flavoring  and  thickening 


Grav’y  Strainer. 


GRAVIES. 


557 


if  necessary.  If  any  gravy  should  be  lumpy  put  through  a gravy 
strainer  before  serving.  By  putting  into  practice  a good  old  adage 
the  wise  housekeeper  ‘‘who  wastes  not  will  want  not” — gravies. 


Browned  Flour. — Sift  and  spread  the  flour  thinly  and  evenly 
over  bottom  of  dripping-pan  and  brown  on  top  of  stove  or  in  oven, 
stirring  constantly  to  prevent  scorching,  until  either  a light  or  deep 
brown  as  desired.  It  is  well  to  prepare  a quantity  at  a time  and 
put  away  in  closely  corked  bottles  or  self-sealing  glass  jars  to  be 
used  as  needed  for  thickening  gravies,  soups  and  sauces  wanted 
brown.  A good  proportion  is  a level  tablespoon  for  each  cup  liquid. 
Use  same  as  any  flour  by  mixing  smooth  with  water  or  butter,  then 
adding  to  liquid.  Butter  and  flour,  mixed  in  equal  parts  and  baked 
brown,  is  preferred  by  some  for  thickening  brown  gravies,  but  plain 
browned  flour  is  doubtless  better  to  use.  A slice  of  toasted  bread 
added  to  gravy  answers  for  both  browning  and  thickening,  but  is 
not  so  nice  as  the  browned  flour.  Browned  Onions  are  also  used 
for  coloring  gravies.  To  prepare,  peel  and  chop  fine  three  medium- 
sized onions,  put  in  stew-pan  with  half  pint  water,  boil  five  minutes 
add  half  pound  moist  sugar  and  simmer  gently  till  mixture  is  a 
dark  brown.  Then  strain  it  into  three-fourths  pint  boiling  vinegar, 
stir  until  thoroughly  mixed,  and  bottle.  Use  for  flavoring  and  col- 
oring gravies,  soups,  etc.  Another  article  used  in  gravies,  sauces, 
etc.,  is  the  Parsley  Butter  on  page  179,  making  two  or  three  times 
the  recipe,  packing  in  a jar  and  keeping  in  a cool  place ; half  as 
much  parsley  may  be  used,  giving  a more  delicate  flavor,  and  some 
add  only  two  tablespoons  lemon  juice.  This  is  also  known  as 
Maitre  F hotel  Butter  and  is  a delicious  dressing  for  steak,  chops, 
etc.,  placed  on  the  hot  platter  on  which  they  are  to  be  served,  turn- 
ing them  over  in  it,  thus  seasoning  each  side. 

Glaze. — Any  strong  meat  soup  or  stock  may  be  boiled  down  to 
jelly-like  consistency  and  makes  excellent  glaze.  Pour  quarts  should 
be  reduced  to  one  quart.  It  ma}^  not  be  so  fine  in  flavor  as  that 
especially  prepared,  but  answers  very  well.  Pig’s  feet,  when  obtain- 
able, will  make  nice  glaze  cooked  with  vegetables,  but  for  a more 
delicate  preparation  take  six  pounds  knuckle  of  veal  or  leg  of  beef, 
and  half  pound  lean  ham,  cut  in  pieces  size  of  an  egg,  rub  a quarter 
pound  butter  on  bottom  of  pot,  which  should  hold  two  gallons ; put 
in  meat  with  half  pint  water,  three  medium-sized  onions,  with  two 
cloves  in  each,  a turnip,  carrot,  and  three  or  four  stalks  celery ; place 
over  quick  fire,  occasionally  stirring  it  until  bottom  of  pot  is  covered 
with  a thick  glaze,  which  will  adhere  lightly  to  spoon  ; then  fill  up 
pot  with  cold  water,  and  when  on  boiling  point,  draw  to  back  of 
stove  and  simmer  gently  three  hours  if  veal,  six  if  beef,  carefully  re- 
moving all  scum  as  it  rises.  The  stock  thus  made,  adding  salt,  will 


558 


GRAVIES. 


make  a delicious  foundation  for  all  kinds  of  clear  soup  or  gravies. 
To  reduce  to  glaze  pass  the  stock  through  fine  hair  sieve  or  cloth  in- 
to pan ; then  fill  up  the  pot  containing  meat,  etc.,  with  hot  water 
and  boil  again  four  hours  to  obtain  all  the  glutinous  part,  strain  off 
stock  and  put  with  that  first  obtained  in  large  stewpan,  set  over  fire 
and  boil  as  fast  as possMe  with  lid  off,  stirring  occasionally  to  pre- 
vent boiling  over.  When  reduced  to  about  three  pints,  pour  into 
small  stewpan  and  boil  more  slowly  until  reduced  to  a quart,  skim- 
ming if  necessary,  then  put  where  it  will  again  boil  quickly  and  stir 
well  with  wooden  spoon  until  it  begins  to  get  thick  and  is  of  a fine 
yellow-brown  color,  taking  care  not  to  burn.  Pack  in  pot  for  use, 
or  in  sausage  skins,  which  may  be  obtained  from  butcher ; cut  off  ayard 
of  the  skin,  tie  one  end  very  tightly  and  pour  in  the  glaze  through  a 
large  funnel.  It  will  be  hard  like  jelly  when  cold  and  when  wanted  for 
use  is  cut  off  in  slices.  A thick  slice  dissolved  in  hot  water  makes 
a cup  of  nutritious  soup,  to  whii^h  may  be  added  any  cooked  vege- 
tables, rice  or  other  ingredients  liked.  A piece  is  very  nice  to  take 
on  a journey,  especially  for  an  invalid  who  does  not  want  to  depend 
on  way-side  hotel  food,  or  is  tired  of  beef-tea.  Another  way  of 
keeping  glaze  is  to  put  away  in  a Glaze- Kettle  made  for  the  pur- 
pose, and  much  like  a custard-kettle.  It  is  a tin  vessel  in  which  the 
glaze  is  kept,  fitting  into  a larger  one,  which  is  filled  with  boiling 
water  to  melt  glaze  when  Avanted  for  use.  The  smaller  vessel  has  a 
lid  with  a small  hole  in  it  for  a brush,  which  is  used  for  putting  the 
glaze  on  meats,  etc.,  as  required.  When  packing  in  skins  it  is  well 
to  put  a part  of  the  glaze  in  ajar  for  this  purpose,  which  may  be  set 
in  kettle  or  pan  of  hot  water  to  melt,  and  provide  also  a small  sufi 
brush,  or  a stiff  feather  will  do.  Glaze  adds  greatly  to  the  fine  ap- 
pearance of  many  dishes.  It  is  much  used  in  decorating  cold  joints, 
hams  and  tongues  and  its  use  is  recommended  in  various  recipes. 

^ To  use  thus,  melt  the  glaze  and  with  the  brush 

cover  the  meat  with  it,  going  over  it  a second 
Glazing  Brush.  time  if  necessary  after  first  coat  has  become.' 

cold.  In  roasting  meat  if  it  is  not  evenly  and  nicely  browned,  brush 
over  with  glaze  just  before  serving  and  it  will  give  required  finish. 

Roux. — This  may  be  made  as  wanted  for  use,  but  is  convenient 
to  have  at  hand.  For  making  White  Roux  melt  a half  pound  but- 
ter slowly,  skim,  let  settle,  then  pour  in  clean  saucepan  over  fire  and 
Avhen  hot  dredge  in  sloAvly  Ga^o  cups  sifted  flour.  Stir  rapidly  until 
perfectly  smooth  and  thoroughly  cooked,  but  do  not  let  brown ; some 
use  an  egg  whisk  for  stirring.  Put  away  in  ajar.  Broion  Roux  is 
made  same,  stirring  OA^er  fire  until  a bright  broAvn,  but  not  scorch- 
ed. Use  for  thickening  gravies,  sauces,  soups,  stews,  etc.,  by  moist- 
ening Avith  a little  of  the  warm  liquid  then  stirring  into  the  whole, 
or  put  it  into  the  cold  liquid,  and  it  Avill  dissolve  as  it  heats ; do  not 
put  into  hot  liquid  without  first  moistening  or  it  will  harden  into 
lumps  instead  of  dissolving. 


GRAVIES. 


559 


Beef  Gravy. — Cut  a half  pound  lean  beef  in  small  pieces  anv. 
put  in  stewpan  with  half  pint  cold  water,  a shallot  or  small  onion^ 
half  teaspoon  salt  and  a little  pepper  and  simmer  gently  three  hours. 
A short  time  before  done  stir  in  half  teaspoon  arrowroot  mixed  with 
a little  cold  water,  add  tablespoon  any  sauce  liked,  boil  up  once, 
strain  and  serve.  Nice  for  poultry,  game,  etc.  Or  cut  a half  pound 
shin  of  beef  in  very  small  pieces,  slice  half  an  onion  and  quarter  of 
a carrot  and  stir  in  saucepan  over  fire  with  piece  of  butter  size  of 
walnut  until  slightly  colored,  add  three-fourths  pint  water,  two  or 
three  sprigs  parsley  and  savory  herbs,  cayenne,  mace  and  salt  to 
taste  and  simmer  half  an  hour ; skim  well,  strain  and  it  is  ready  for 
use.  For  a Rich  Beef  Gravy.,  cut  two  pounds  shin  of  beef  and  a 
large  onion  or  a few  shallots  in  thin  slices,  dredge  with  flour  and 
fry  a pale  brown,  but  do  not  scorch ; add  two  pints  boiling  water, 
let  boil  and  skim.  Then  add  slice  lean  ham  or  bacon,  bunch  savory 
herbs,  two  blades  mace,  half  head  celery,  two  or  three  cloves,  four 
allspice,  quarter  teaspoon  whole  pepper,-  cayenne  and  salt  to  taste 
and  simmer  very  gently  two  hours,  or  until  all  juices  are  extracted 
from  meat.  Set  away  to  cool,  then  skim  off  all  fat.  May  be  flavored 
with  catsup,  bottled  sauce,  or  anything  that  will  give  additional 
relish  to  the  dish  with  which  it  is  to  be  served.  This  gravy  is  ex- 
cellent with  ragouts,  hashes,  or  any  dish  from  cold  meats. 

Brovm  Gravy. — Before  serving  any  roast  meat,  let  the  gravy  in 
pan  dry  down  until  grease  can  be  poured  off  clear,  while  the  glaze 
remains  adhering  to  pan  ; pour  in  water  to  dissolve  it,  and  when  it  has 
boiled  add  a trifle  of  Browned  Flour,  to  thicken  if  necessary  though 
when  a roast  has  been  well  dredged  with  flour  a thickening  will  not 
be  needed.  Strain  through  a fine  strainer ; serve  some  in  dish  with 
the  roast,  the  rest  in  sauce-boat.  A Cheap  Brovm  Gravy ^ which  will 
be  found  nice  for  warming  up  any  kind  of  cold  meat  is  made  as 
follows  : Slice  three  onions  and  fry  in  butter  a nice  brown ; toast  a 
large,  thin  slice  of  bread  slowly  until  quite  hard  and  a deep  brown  ; 
put  these,  with  any  pieces  of  meat,  bone,  etc.,  and  some  herl)S,  on 
the  fire  with  a pint  and  a half  water,  and  stew  down  until  it  is  as 
thick  as  liked.  Season  to  taste,  strain,  and  set  in  a cool  place  until 
wanted  for  use.  For  a Rich  Broion  Gravy,  fry  two  large  onions 
cut  in  rings  in  two  tablespoons  butter  until  a light  brown ; then  add 
two  pounds  shin  of  beef  and  two  small  slices  bacon,  both  cut  in 
small  square  pieces,  and  pour  in  cup  water;  boil  ten  minutes,  or  un- 
til a nice  brown  color,  stirring  occasionally ; add  three  and  a half 
pints  water,  let  boil  up,  then  draw  to  back  of  range  and  simmer  very 
gently  an  hour  and  a half ; strain  and  when  cold  take  off  the  fat. 
Thicken  with  four  tablespoons  flour  first  made  smooth  and  lightly 
browned  with  three  tablespoons  butter  in  another  pan,  and  cooled  ; 
boil  the  gravy  up  quickly,  season  to  taste  and  it  is  ready  to  serve. 
This  thickening  may  be  made  in  larger  quantities  and  kept  in  stone 


o60 


GRAVIES. 


jar  until  wanted.  A Brown  Gravy  without  Meat  is  made  as  fol- 
lows . Slice,  flour  and  fry  two  onions  and  one  large  carrot  in  two 
tablespoons  butter  till  a nice  light  brown,  add  three  pints  boiling 
'vater,  bunch  savory  herbs  and  pepper  and  salt.  Stew  gently  about 
an  hour,  strain,  when  cold  skim  off  all  fat  and  stir  in  a thickening 
made  as  in  preceeding  recipe  and  a few  drops  Caramel  Coloring. 

Carrot  Gravy. — Grate  a good  large  carrot,  first  washing  and 
scraping  thoroughly.  Put  butter  size  of  walnut  in  stewpan  and 
when  just  melted  put  in  the  carrot  with  enough  stock  to  make  ot 
the  usual  consistence,  adding  salt,  pepper,  finely  chopped  parsley 
and  a little  lemon  juice.  Stew  till  smooth  and  thoroughly  cooked. 

Economical  Gravy. — Put  in  stewpan  the  chopped  bones  and 
trimmings  of  cold  roast  or  boiled  veal  or  beet,  one  and  one-half 
pints  water,  an  onion,  quarter  teaspopn  each  chopped  lemon  peel, 
and  salt  and  blade  mace,  pounded  ; simmer  gently  an  hour  or  more, 
or  until  liquor  is  reduced  to  a pint,  then  strain  through  hair  sieve. 
Add  thickening  of  butter  and  flour,  let  it  just  boil  up,  squeeze  in 
about  teaspoon  lemon  juice,  and  it  is  ready  to  serve.  It  may  be  fla- 
vored with  a little  tomato  sauce  if  at  hand,  or  if  a dark  colored  gravy 
is  wanted,  catsup  or  any  bottled  sauce.  Or  put  chopped  bone  and 
trimmings  from  any  cold  joint  in  stewpan  with  quarter  teaspoon 
each  salt,  whole  pepper  and  whole  allspice,  small  bunch  savory  herl)s 
and  half  head  celery,  cover  with  boiling  water  and  simmer  gently 
about  two  hours.  Slice  and  fry  an  onion  in  tablespoon  butter  till  a 
pale  brown,  and  mix  gradually  with  the  gravy  ; boil  fifteen  minutes 
and  strain,  put  back  in  stewpan,  flavor  with  walnut  vinegar,  catsup, 
pickled  onion  liquor,  or  any  bottled  sauce  preferred.  Thicken  with  a 
little  butter  and  flour  mixed  smooth  on  a plate,  boil  up  once,  and 
the  gravy  will  be  ready  for  use. 

Gihlet  Gravy. — Boil  the  giblets — gizzard,  heart  and  liver — with 
the  neck  in  two  quarts  water  an  hour  and  a half,  skimming  if  neces- 
sary and  adding  more  water  if  it  cooks  away  too  much.  Take  out 
giblets,  chop  fine,  return  to  water  in  saucepan,  first  skimming  out 
neck,  and  add  tablespoon  flour  mixed  smooth  with  a little  cold 
water ; season  and  after  the  fowl  has  been  taken  up,  add  to  dripping- 
pan  placed  on  top  of  stove,  adding  more  water  if  necessary,  and 
boil  five  minutes,  stirring  constantly,  scraping  the  sides  of  pan  to 
free  the  rich,  savory  particles  that  adhere.  More  thickening  or 
seasoning  may  be  needed  and  some  add  a little  sweet  marjoram.  If 
too  much  fat  in  dripping-pan,  skim  off  before  adding  the  gihlet  sauce. 
If  the  giblets  are  not  liked,  or  are  preferred  served  whole,  the  gravy 
is  made  same,  simply  omitting  giblets  and  serving  them  on  platter 
with  the  fowl.  For  a nice  Liver  Gravy.,  wash  the  feet  and  neck  of 
fowls  perfectly  clean,  cut  in  small  pieces  and  put  in  stewpan  with  a 
slice  toasted  bread,  half  an  onion,  bunch  savory  herbs,  salt  and  pep- 


GRAVIES. 


561 


per  to  taste  and  the  giblets ; pour  one  pint  water  over,  and  simmei 
gently  one  hour.  Take  out  the  liver,  pound  it,  and  put  in  roasting 
pan  with  the  strained  liquor  in  which  it  was  boiled.  Add  thick- 
ening of  butter  and  flour,  and  flavoring  of  mushroom  catsup,  boil  up 
and  serve.  The  gizzard  can  be  served  whole  with  the  fowl. 


Herh  Gravy. — Take  a stick  of  horse-radish  and  the  leaves  of  a 
sprig  each  winter  savor}^,  thyme,  marjoram  and  a little  tarragon  ; 
put  in  stewpan  with  pint  water,  four  tablespoons  vinegar,  juice  oi 
a lemon,  two  thinly-sliced  shallots  and  a clove  or  two.  Add  enough 
Browned  Onion  or  Caramel  Coloring  to  color  well  and  simmer  gently 
fifteen  minutes  after  bringing  to  a boil.  Strain,  add  thickening  and 
serve  hot.  Or  omit  thickening  and  when  quite  cold  pour  in  bottles 
to  be  served  in  small  quantities  with  meats  as  j^erd  Sauce. 

Heidelberg  Gravy.— Line  a stewpan  slightly  v/ith  butter,  put  i a 
three  sliced  onions,  six  pounds  boned  fillet  of  veal  and  two  pounds 
of  boiling  piece  of  beef  and  pint  stock.  Let  all  boil  on  brisk  fii'e 
till  reduced  one-half,  turn  the  meat  frequently,  and  simmer  gently. 
The  glaze  must  not  be  overcooked'.,  if  so  the  sauce  will  taste  disa- 
greeably sharp.  Take  stewpan  olf  fire  when  meat  is  well  glazed, 
cover  it,  and  do  not  touch  for  five  or  six  minutes  in  order  that  tbe 
glaze  may  dissolve  quickly.  Pour  in  six  quarts  more  stock,  boH 
well,  skim  and  add  two  carrots,  level  tablespoon  salt  and  saltspocv 
white  pepper.  Boil  and  skim,  and  when  meat  is  quite  done  remove 
it,  and  the  stock  through  a cloth.  Now  put  into  a saucepan 

three-fot  i tns  pound  each  clarified  butter  and  flour  ; mix  well,  put  in 
the  stock  and  stir  with  a wooden  spoon  till  it  boils.  Simmer  tw  o 
hours  with  the  cover  lifted  off  a little.  Skim  twice  during  the  sim- 
mering, and  once  more  when  done.  Strain  through  a cloth  and  keep 
for  use.  This  makes  four  quarts  and  will  keep  good  a week  or  more. 
Instead  of  the  meat  given  above  a few  slices  lean  ham,  the  low^er 
part  of  a calf’s  leg  and  a kidney,  cut  in  pieces,  and  a chicken,  cut  in 
joints,  may  be  used,  adding  the  carrot  and  parsnips  also,  if  liked, 
with  onion.  To  make  Brown  Heidelberg  Gravy.,  use  Browned  Flour. 

Horse-radish  Gravy. — Mix  ^vell  one  tablespoon  each  butter  and 
flour  in  saucepan,  add  pint  soup  or  gravy  stock  ; let  boil  till  flour  is 
w^ell  cooked;  add  three  or  four  tablesp  mns  niopared  horse-radish, 
pinch  of  sugar,  a little  salt  and  white  pepper  if  Lked.  Serve  at 
once.  If  grated  fresh  horse-radish  is  used  add  a little  vinegar  to 
gravy  just  before  serving.  Milk,  broth  from  boiled  corned  beef  or 
water  may  be  used  instead  of  stock.  This  is  one  of  the  best  of  gravies. 


Jugged  Gravy. — Cut  two  pounds  skin  of  beef  and  quarter  pound 
lean  ham  in  small  pieces,  slice  an  onion,  or  a few  shallots  and  half 
a large  carrot ; put  m.eat,  ham  and  vegetables,  with  seasoning  of 
pepper  and  salt,  in  alternate  layers  in  jar  holding  three  pints,  and 
36* 


562 


GRAVIES. 


add  two  pints  water ; cover  closely  so  that  steam  will  not  escape  and 
bake  in  oven  for  from  six  to  eight  hc>urs.  If  oven  is  very  hot  less  time 
will  he  required.  A good  way  is  to  put  jar  in  oven  overnight,  leaving 
small  fire,  to  draw  out  the  gravy,  and  it  will  then  bake  in  a much 
less  time.  AVhen  sufficiently  cooked,  strain,  cool,  remove  fat  and 
flavor  with  catsup  or  any  bottled  sauce  liked.  An  excellent  gravy. 

Maitre  d?  hotel  Gravy. — Mix  in  saucepan  two  tablespoons  Ma- 
fcrie  d’  hotel  Butter  and  one  of  flour ; add  pint  milk  or  water,  let 
boil  and  serve  with  boiled  beef,  mutton  or  fish.  Or  add  onl)^  half 
pint  milk  and  make  a thick  sauce  known  as  Maitre  dh  hotel  Sauce. 

Milk  Gravy. — After  frying  any  kind  of  meat,  add  a tablespoon 
flour  to  the  fat  stir  well  together,  add  pint  of  milk,  let  boil  till  flour 
is  thoroughly  cooked.  Water  may  be  used  in  place  of  milk,  or  half 
and  half,  and  butter  instead  of  the  fat.  Or  have  a pint  milk  at  boil- 
ing point  and  stir  in  a thickening  of  a rounded  tablespoon  flour, 
mixed  smooth  with  cream  or  milk,  and  a beaten  egg.  Serve  soon  as 
it  boils,  as  if  allowed  to  boil  a half  minute,  the  creaminess  is  lost. 

Onion  Gravy. — Put  two  tablespoons  butter  in  saucepan  and 
when  slightly  browned  stir  in  three  sliced  onions  and  fry  brown.  Stir 
in  heaping  teaspoon  flour  and  fry  all  together  a moment,  then  add 
half  pint  stock,  seasoning  of  pepper  and  salt,  and  boil  gently  ten 
minutes.  Skim  off  all  fat,  add  teaspoon  each  made  mustard  and 
rinegar  and  juice  of  half  a lemon,  give  one  boil  and  serve  hot.  Es- 
pecially nice  with  steaks.  If  to  be  poured  over  the  steak  or  served 
as  Robert  Sauce.,  use  only  half  as  much  stock  and  less  thickening. 

Orange  Gravy. — Put  a sliced  onion  in  stewpan  with  half  pint 
stock,  a few  basil  or  hay  leaves,  three  or  four  strips  orange  or  lemon 
peel  and  simmer  very  gently  fifteen  minutes.  Strain,  and  if  not  suf- 
ficiently flavored  add  juice  of  a Seville  orange  or  a lemon  ; season, 
add  thickening  of  arrowroot  or  corn  starch,  boil  up  once  and  serve. 
Nice  for  ail  game. 

Piquant  Gravy. — Put  two  tablespoons  each  chopped  cucumber 
pickles,  capers  and  onions  in  saucepan  with  half  pint  vinegar  and 
stir  over  fire  until  vinegar  has  nearly  all  evaporated ; add  two  table- 
'Spoons  each  butter  and  flour  rubbed  smooth,  two  teaspoons  salt, 
tAvo  saltspoons  pepper  and  half  as  much  cayenne,  Avith  pint  boiling 
Avater  or  stock.  Boil  up  once  and  serve.  This  is  also  known  as 
Piqitant  Sauce.,  and  a more  elaborate  recipe  is  the  following  : Put 
two  tablespoons  butter  in  steAvpan  with  a small  carrot  and  six  shal- 
lots, sliced,  bunch  savory  herbs,  half  bay  leaf,  two  small  slices  lean 
ham,  chopped  fine,  two  cloves,  six  pepper-corns,  blade  of  mace,  and 
three  whole  allspice.  Simmer  all  over  slow  fire  until  bottom  of  pan 
is  covered  with  a brown  glaze,  stirring  to  prevent  burning,  and  add 
four  tablespoons  vinegar,  half  pint  stock,  teaspoon  sugar,  pisich  of 


COLD  MEATS. 


563 


cayenne  and  salt  to  taste.  Simmer  gently  fifteen  minutes,  skim  off 
all  fat,  strain  and  serve  hot  with  roast  meats.  If  not  liked  so  acid 
use  less  vinegar. 

Sage  Gravy. — Chop  fine  a half  dozen  large  green  sage  leaves, 
or  more  if  the  leaves  are  small,  with  two  medium-sized  onions.  Put 
in  stewpan  with  butter  size  of  walnut,  sprinkle  with  flour,  cover 
closely  and  let  steam  a few  minutes.  Then  add  teaspoon  vinegar, 
some  broth  or  gravy,  and  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper.  Simmer 
till  the  onion  is  tender.  Capital  with  roast  pork. 

Veal  Gravy. — Cut  three  pounds  veal  and  two  slices  lean  ham 
in  small  pieces,  put  in  stewpan,  moisten  with  little  water  and  set 
over  fire  to  extract  juices  ; when  bottom  of  pan  is  covered  with  a 
white  glaze  add  three  pints  water,  bunch  savory  herbs,  a few  green 
onions  or  one  large  onion,  blade  of  mace,  salt  to  taste  and  a few 
mushrooms  when  obtainable.  Stew  very  slowly  three  or  four  hours 
and  skim  well  the  moment  it  boils.  Let  cool,  take  off  fat  and  re- 
heat when  Avanted  for  use.  May  be  used  as  a foundation  for  white 
sauces,  for  fricassees,  or  Avherever  nice  veal  gravy  or  stock  is  wished. 

Venison  Gravy. — Brown  trimmings  of  venison  in  a little  butter 
or  fat  over  brisk  fire  and  put  Avith  them  three  or  four  mutton  shank 
bones  and  pint  Avater ; simmer  gently  tAVo  hours,  skim,  strain,  add 
tAvo  teaspoons  Avalnut  or  any  catsup,  salt  to  taste,  boil  up  and  serve. 


Cold  IVIeats. 


In  America  and  England  there  is  great  prejudice  against  warmed- 
over  food,  but  in  France  one  eats  it  half  the  time  in  some  of  the 
most  delicious  ‘^made  dishes”  without  suspecting  it.  Herein  lies  the 
secret.  With  us  the  Avarming  over  is  so  artlessly  done,  that  the  hard 
fact  too  often  stares  at  us  from  out  the  Avatery  expanse  in  which  it 
reposes.  One  great  reason  of  the  failure  to  make  Avarmed-over  meat 
satisfactory  is  the  lack  of  gravjL  On  the  goodness  of  this,  as  well 
as  its  presence,  depends  the  success  of  the  dish.  The  glaze,  for  which 
the  recipe  is  gi\^en  under  Gravies,  renders  one  at  all  times  independ- 
ent in  this  respect,  but  at  the  same  time  it  should  not  alone  be  de- 
pended on.  Every  drop  of  Avhat  remains  in  the  dish  from  the  roast 
should  be  saved,  and  great  care  be  taken  of  all  scraps,  bones  and 
gristle,  which  should  be  carefully  boiled  doAvn  to  save  the  necessity 
of  using  glaze  for  every  purpose.  Do  not  make  into  ‘‘hash”  all  cold 


564 


COLD  MEATS. 


meat,  as  is  the  too  common  practice  of  so  many  American  house- 
keepers. Hash  appears  to  be  a peculiarly  American  institution.  In 
no  other  country  is  every  remnant  of  cold  meat  turned  into  this  one 
unvarying  dish.  Not  only  remnants  hut  whole  joints  of  cold  meat, 
a roast  of  beef  of  which  the  tenderloin  had  sufficed  for  the  first  day’s 
dinner,  the  leg  of  mutton  from  which  a few  slices  only  have  been 
taken,  the  fillet  of  veal,  availaole  for  so  many  delicate  dishes,  are 
ruthlessly  turned  into  the  all-prevading  hash.  The  curious  thing  is 
that  people  are  even  fond  of  it.  Yet  hash  in  itself  is  not  a bad  dish  ; 
it  is  called  a American  institution,  because  when  English 

people  speak  of  hash,  they  mean  something  quite  different — meat 
warmed  in  slices.  Our  hash,  in  its  best  form — that  is,  made  with 
nice  gravy,  garnished  with  sippets  of  toast  and  pickles,  surrounded 
vdth  mashed  potatoes  or  rice — is  dignified  abroad  by  the  name  of 
^‘mince,"”  and  makes  its  appearance  as  an  elegant  little  entree.  Nor 
would  it  be  anathematized  in  the  wa}^  it  is  with  us,  if  it  were  only 
occasionally  introduced.  It  is  the  familiarity  that  has  led  to  con- 
tempt. But  though  recipes  are  hereafter  given  for  most  excellent 
dishes  of  hash,  it  is  better  to  introduce  a little  variety  in  warmed- 
over  meats.  Variety  is  as  easy  to  produce  as  it  is  rare  to  meet  with 
in  average  cooking,  and  depends  more  upon  intelligence  and 
thoughtfulness  than  upon  anything  else.  Plenty  of  good  well  fla- 
vored gravy  is  an  absolute  necessity  for  the  success  of  warmed-over 
dishes,  also  a variety  of  seasoning,  herbs,  etc.,  though  in  using  the 
recipes  that  follow,  if  all  the  seasonings  mentioned  are  not  at  hand 
others  may  be  substituted  or  they  may  be  omited  entirely.  No  good 
cook,  however,  will  allow  her  stock  of  spices,  herbs  and  other  con- 
diments to  run  low,  for  upon  these  and  their  appropriate  use  de- 
pends the  success  of  all  cookery,  giving  that  peculiar  flavor  charac- 
teristic of  French  cooking ; and  another  secret  we  may  learn  from  them 
is  the  use  of  a Pinch  of  Sugar  in  soups,  meat  and  vegetable  dishes, 
etc.  It  is  not  added  to  sweeten,  or  even  be  perceptible,  but  it  en- 
riches, softens,  tones,  as  it  were,  the  other  ingredients  as  salt  does. 
It  is  a mistaken  idea  to  think  that  fat  and  butter  in  large  quantities 
are  necessary  to  good  cooking.  Butter  and  oils  may  be  melted  with- 
out changing  their  nature,  but  when  cooked  they  become  much  more 
indigestible  and  injurious  to  weak  stomachs.  Gravy  is  equally  if 
not  more  palatable  and  much  more  wholesome,  though  a limited 
quantity  of  butter,  drippings  or  oil  is  almost  indispensable  to  a well 


COLD  MEATS. 


665 


flavored  gravy,  unless  it  be  made  from  good  stock  from  boiled  meat 
and  vegetables,  which  is  much  better.  In  making  warmed-over 
dishes  of  meat  do  not  let  the  preparation  boil  or  cook  long ; simply 
become  thoroughly  heated,  as  boiling  toughens  re-cooked  meat,  and 
it  is  also  necessary  to  always  place  in  a hot  frying-pan,  so  the  heat- 
ing can  be  more  quickly  accomplished.  We  give  below  a few  recipes 
which  make  appetizing  dishes  from  cold  meat  but  the  ways  of  pre- 
paring the  latter  are  legion,  and  the  successful  housekeeper  can 
form  innumerable  dishes,  as  each  recipe  will  suggest  another  even 
more  edible  than  the  first. 


Meat  Batter. — Dipping  slices  of  cold  meat  in  the  following 
batter  is  a much  nicer  way  of  encasing  them,  than  to  single-bread : 
Mix  one  and  a half  pints  sifted  flour  with  two  tablespoons  melted 
butter,  and  enough  warm  water  to  make  a soft  paste,  which  beat 
till  smooth ; then  add  more  warm  water  till  consistency  ot  fritter 
batter,  salt  to  taste,  and  add,  just  before  dipping  in  the  pieces  of 
cold  meat,  the  well-frothed  whites  of  two  eggs.  Another  batter  nice 
for  meats,  dry  in  themselves,  such  as  chickens,  veal,  etc.,  is  to  add 
to  above  quantity  flour,  yolks  ot  two  eggs,  four  tablespoons  oil, 
mixing  with  cold  water  and  adding  salt  and  beaten  whites  as  above. 
When  meat  is  prepared,  fry  as  fritters  or  in  frying-pan. 

Sweet  Herhs. — To  make  the  bunch  of  herbs  called  for  in  many 
recipes  put  together  in  palm  of  left  hand  three  long  sprigs  parsley 
with  stems  crossing  in  fan  shape,  and  on  these  lay  two  sprigs  each 
thyme  and  summer  savory  and  two  bay  leaves  ; twist  root  ends  of 
parsley  up  over  other  herbs  and  bring  leaf  ends  down,  making  a 
kind  of  roll,  which  must  be  wound  about  and  tied  with  clean  twine. 
Some  always  add  a few  pepper-corns  and  blade  of  mace  ; sweet  mar- 
joram is  also  used,  and  sage  leaves  should  be  added  for  flavoring 
pork.  The  above  is  given  simply  as  a general  rule,  and  any  com- 
bination preferred  or  convenient  may  be  used.  The  herbs  are  always 
removed  before  serving  the  dish.^ 

Warmed-Over  Roasts. — The  simplest  of  all  ways  of  warming  a 
roast  that  has  not  been  too  much  cut  is  to  v/rap  it  in  thickly  buttered 
paper  and  put  in  the  oven  again,  covering  closely  as  possible  and 
leave  only  long  enough  to  become  thoroughly  heated  through.  By 
keeping  closely  covered  it  will  get  hot  in  less  time  and  the  steam 
will  prevent  it  from  becoming  hard  and  dr}^ ; make  some  gravy  and 
serve  hot  with  the  meat.  If  the  gravy  is  good  and  plentiful  the  meat 
will  be  as  nice  as  the  first  day,  but  without  gravy  will  be  an  unsatis- 
factory dish.  ^ If  it  is  not  possible  to  cover  the  joint  closely  in  the 
oven,  put  it  in  steamer  over  hot  water;  let  it  get  hot  through  and 


660 


COLD  MEATS. 


serve  as  before.  Or  it  may  then  be  placed  in  oven  a few  moments 
to  brown.  Cooking  as  a Pot-Roast  is  also  a nice  way  to  warm  it 
over.  For  the  third  day  the  meat  may  be  warmed  up  in  any  of  the 
ways  hereafter  given. 

Fried  Meat. — Any  kind  of  cold  meat  or  chicken  that  can  be 
cut  into  neat  slices  may  be  very  nicely  warmed  over  by  first  dipping 
in  Meat  Batter  as  above,  or  single-breading,  and  dropping  into  a 
kettle  of  hot  fat,  turning  to  brown  both  sides,  or  in  butter  or  drip- 
pings in  frying-pan.  The  batter,  or  egg  and  bread-crumbs  forms  a 
sort  of  crust  which  keeps  the  meat  tender  and  juicy  while  it  is  being 
heated  through.  Frying  (without  batter  or  crumbs)  in  a pan  with  a 
little  butter  renders  the  meat  hard  and  almost  uneatable  unless  the 
pan  is  very  hot,  the  meat  turned  almost  constantly^  and  soon  taken 
out  on  a hot  platter  and  served  at  once.  Some  prefer  to  sprinkle 
the  meat  with  ground  spices  or  chopped  herbs  or  onions  before 
breading  them.  A tureen  of  good  gravy  should  accompany  meat 
prepared  thus,  which  may  be  served  in  a circle  round  mashed  po- 
tato, or  in  center  of  platter  with  gravy  poured  round,  or  in  any  way 
preferred.  For  Fried  Mutton  Cutlets^  trim  thick  cutlets  from  cold 
leg  of  mutton,  or  chops  from  the  ^oin.  dip  them  in  the  Meat  Batter, 
fry  as  above  and  serve  in  a circle  round  a Vegetable  Ragout  made 
as  follows : Stew  young  carrots,  turnips,  green  pease  and  white 
beans  gently  in  a little  water  in  which  the  bones  and  trimmings  of 
the  meat  have  been  cooked.  Season  and  dish  in  center  of  platter. 
For  Fried  Corned  Beef^  cut  any  part  of  cold  corned  beef  into  thin 
slices,  fry  slightly  in  butter,  and  season  with  a little  pepper.  Have 
ready  some  very  hot  mashed  potatoes,  lay  the  slices  of  beef  on  them 
and  garnish  with  three  or  four  pickled  gherkins  ; or  heat  slices  in  a 
little  liquor  from  mixed  pickle,  drain,  and  serve  as  above.  Or  cut 
nice,  cold  roast  or  lean  corned  beef  in  thin  slices,  and  lay  them  in 
mustard  and  vinegar  a few  hours  ; double-bread  and  fry  in  hot  lard. 
For  breading  meats  see  Croquettes,  page  299. 

Molded  Meat. — Chop  a pound  any  cold  meat,  except  pork,  very 
fine,  and  season  with  half  saltspoon  pepper  and  one  of  salt.  Wash 
two  ounces  maccaroni  well  in  cold  water  and  boil  half  an  hour. 
Drain  and  cut  into  inch  lengths  and  mix  with  the  chopped  meat,  and 
a cup  bread  crumbs,  adding  tablespoon  butter  cut  into  small  pieces. 
Bind  all  together  with  a beaten  egg  and  tablespoon  stock,  and  when 
thoroughly  mixed  pack  into  a well-greased  dish  or  bowl  and  steam 
one  hour.  Or  for  Meat  Pudding.,  take  any  cold  meat  and  suet,  chop 
very  fine ; add  salt,  onions,  minced  ham  or  tongue,  a slice  of  bread 
soaked  in  milk,  two  well-beaten  eggs,  tablespoon  butter ; stew  all 
together  gently  for  fifteen  minutes,  place  in  mold  and  bake  till 
brown.  Serve  on  a hot  dish,  and  cover  with  gravy ; or  soak  the 
bread  in  water,  omit  the  suet,  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  celery- 
seed  ; add  the  meat  and  egg,  and  pour  the  mixture  without  cooking 


COLD  MEATS. 


567 


into  a buttered  pudding  dish,  placing  a tablespoon  butter  on  top  ; 
bake  slowly  and  turn  out  in  solid  form  as  above.  Turkey,  chicken, 
etc.,  are  very  nice  prepared  in  this  way. 

Meat  Omelet. — Mince  any  cold  pieces  of  meat,  add  a few  crumbs 
of  bread  or  crackers,  and  enough  beaten  egg  to  bind  them  together. 
Season  well  and  pour  into  a well-buttered,  hot  frying-pan.  If  it  is  diffi- 
cult to  turn  whole,  a hot  shovel  may  be  held  over  top  till  browned. 

Meat  Ovals. — Put  a half  pound  stale  bread  or  crumbs  to  soak 
in  pint  cold  water ; chop  fine  same  quantity  of  any  cold  roast  or 
boiled  meat,  with  a little  fat ; press  the  bread  in  a clean  cloth  to  ex- 
tract the  water ; put  two  tablespoons  butter  in  stewpan  with  table- 
spoon chopped  onionS;  fry  two  minutes  and  stir,  then  add  the  bread ; 
stir  and  fry  till  rather  dry,  and  put  in  the  meat ; season  with  teaspoon 
salt,  half  of  pepper,  a little  grated  nutmeg  and  lemon  peel  and  stir 
constantly  till  hot,  then  add  two  eggs,  one  at  a time,  mix  well  and 
pour  into  dish  to  get  cold.  Make  into  small  egg-shapes,  slightly 
flattened,  single-bread,  taking  care  to  keep  in  shape,  and  when  all 
are  done  fry  in  frying-pan  in  a little  very  hot  butter,  lard  or  drip- 
pings until  a fine  yellow  brown,  turning  to  brown  both  sides.  Serve 
very  hot  with  a border  of  mashed  potatoes  or  any  garnish  fancied. 
A piquant  sauce  may  be  served  with  them.  Any  kind  of  meat, 
poultry  game  or  fish,  or  even  vegetables  may  be  served  thus.  Hard- 
boiled  eggs  or  potatoes  may  be  introduced  in  small  quantities,  and 
the  ovals  maybe  immersed  in  hot  fat  if  preferred,  as  Fritters.  Oyster 
Ovals  are  also  nice  cooked  in  same  way. 

Meat  Pie. — Put  a layer  of  cold  roast  beef  or  other  bits  of  meat, 
chopped  very  fine,  in  bottom  of  dish,  and  season  with  pepper  and 
salt,  then  a layer  of  powdered  crackers,  with  bits  of  butter  and  a lit- 
tle milk,  and  thus  place  alternate  layers  until  the  dish  is  full ; wet 
well  with  gravy  or  broth,  or  a little  warm  water ; spread  over  all  a 
thick  layer  of  crackers  which  have  been  seasoned  with  salt  and  mix- 
ed with  milk  and  a beaten  egg  or  two  ; stick  bits  of  butter  thickly 
over  it,  cover  with  a tin  pan,  and  bake  half  to  three-quarters  of 
an  hour;  remove  cover  ten  minutes  before  serving,  and  brown. 
Make  moister  if  of  veal.  Or  for  Hampton  Pie.,  cover  any  bits  or 
bones,  rejected  in  chopping,  with  nearly  a pint  of  cold  water,  and  let 
them  simmer  for  an  hour  or  more ; strain,  add  a chopped  onion, 
three  tablespoons  Chili  sauce,  a level  tablespoon  salt,  and  the  chop- 
ped meat ; let  simmer  a few  minutes,  thicken  with  a tablespoon  flour 
mixed  in  water,  let  boil  once,  take  off  and  let  cool ; put  a layer  of 
this  in  a pudding  dish,  then  a layer  of  sliced  hard-boiled  eggs  and  a 
few  slices  from  cold  boiled  potatoes,  then  the  rest  of  the  meat,  then 
eggs,  etc. ; cover  with  a baking  powder  crust  or  a good  paste ; make 
an  opening  in  center,  and  bake  forty  minutes.  Or  for  a Mixed  Meat 
Pie.,  pound  separately  in  a mortar  one  pound  each  sausage  meat, 


568 


COLD  MEATS, 


cold  boiled  liver  and  veal,  and  add  a seasoning  of  pepper,  salt.^ 
minced  parsley  and  one  or  two  stalks  young  onions,  chopped.  Line 
bottom  of  baking  dish  with  a good  paste  and  put  on  this  a layer  of 
sausage  meat  with  a few  pieces  of  truffles  here  and  there.  Pound  a 
pound  of  ham  and  put  a layer  of  it  over  the  sausage  meat,  with 
pieces  of  truffles,  then  a layer  of  veal  with  truffles,  layer  of  liver  with 
truffles  and  so  alternate  until  dish  is  full.  Add  enough  nice  gravy  to 
moisten,  cover  with  nice  light  crust  and  bake  in  moderate  oven  un- 
til a good  pale  brown.  The  truffles  may  be  omitted.  For  Meat  and 
Potato  Pie,  take  cold  beef  or  veal,  chop,  and  season  as  for  hash ; 
have  ready  hot  mashed  potatoes  seasoned  for  table,  and  put  in  a 
shallow  baking  dish  first  a layer  of  meat,  then  layer  of  potatoes,  and 
so  on,  till  dish  is  heaping  full ; smooth  over  top  of  potatoes,  dot  with 
bits  of  butter  and  bake  until  a nice  brown.  Some  sprinkle  the  top  with 
bread-crumbs.  Or  chop  a quart  of  any  cold  meat  fine  ; season  highly 
with  salt  and  pepper,  and  put  into  a buttered,  earthen  baking  dish. 
Chop  a peeled  onion  very  fine,  fry  it  for  two  minutes  with  a table- 
spoon drippings,  and  pour  over  the  meat.  While  chopping  the  meat 
and  frying  the  onion,  stew  any  bones  from  the  meat  in  a cup  cold 
gravy,  or  use  water  if  no  gravy  is  at  hand,  and  strain  it  over  the 
meat  and  onion ; cover  meat  an  inch  thick  with  cold  mashed  pota- 
toes, smooth  top,  brush  it  over  with  beaten  egg,  and  bake  the  pie 
twenty  minutes  in  a moderate  oven.  A nice  Tongue  Pie  may  be 
made  by  taking  equal  parts  cold  tongue  and  cold  poultry  or  roast 
pork.  Line  an  earthen  pudding  dish  with  good  paste,  put  the  two 
meats  into  it  in  layers,  season  each  layer  lightly  with  salt  and  pep- 
per ; when  the  dish  is  full  add  sufficient  cold  gravy  of  any  kind  to 
moisten — or  if  there  is  no  gravy,  a cup  hot  water,  and  tablespoon 
butter ; put  an  upper  crust  on  the  pie,  wetting  the  edges  of  the  crust 
to  make  them  adhere  ; cut  a few  slits  in  upper  crust  to  permit  the 
escape  of  steam,  and  brush  over  with  melted  butter  or  beaten  egg. 
Bake  in  moderate  oven  an  hour,  or  until  the  crust  is  nicely  browned, 
and  serve  either  hot  or  cold.  For  a Raised  Pie^  take  in  proportion  of  a 
quarter  pound  lard  for  every  pound  flour,  half  a pint  of  water  and  a 
pinch  salt.  To  make,  add  the  lard  to  the  water,  bring  to  a boil,  then 
pour  it  over  the  flour  and  mix  as  quickly  as  possible ; when  mixed 
wrap  in  a cloth  to  keep  warm.  Make  into  shapes  as  on  page  428  as 
rapidly  as  possible,  and  when  cold  it  will  retain  any  shape  given  it 
while  warm.  For  filling,  bone  and  boil  two  calf’s  feet ; cut  up  and 
stew  over  a gentle  fire  for  an  hour  two  chickens,  and  two  sweet- 
breads, in  a quart  of  veal  gravy  and  add  the  chopped  calf’s  feet, 
season  with  cayenne  pepper  and  salt,  add  six  or  eight  boiled  Force- 
meat Balls,  four  boiled  eggs  quartered.;  stew  till  well  heated,let  stand 
until  nearly  cold,  and  put  in  pie,  and  finish  as  on  page  428.  In 
case  the  butter-iamb  and  aspic  jelly  are  not  liked ; after  filling  in 
meat,  place  four  quarters  of  a hard-boiled  egg  at  equal  distances 
apart  on  top  of  meat,  and  strew  a few  cold  green  pease  or  asparagus 


COLD  MEATS. 


569 


tops  on  it.  This  gives  a pretty  effect,  and  saves  the  trouble  of  mak- 
ing the  aspic  jelly.  The  shell  may  be  filled  with  any  cold  cooked 
meat.  Rabbits  make  a nice  filling,  stewed  with  a nice  cut  or  two  of 
liarn  or  salt  pork.  Make  a force-meat  out  of  the  livers  beaten  in  a 
mortar  until  fine,  adding  freely  of  pepper  and  salt,  a little  nutmeg, 
and  a few  sweet  herbs.  Partridges,  or  any  game  birds,  may  be  used, 
bearing  in  mind  that  the  pie  is  always  to  he  served  cold.  Pie- 
molds  may  be  used,  in  which  case  simply  line  mold  with  puff  paste  ; 
and  another  filling  is  to  bone  the  fowl,  or  whatever  bird  is  intended 
to  be  used,  lay  it,  breast  downwards,  upon  a cloth,  and  season  the 
inside  well  with  pounded  mace,  allspice,  pepper  and  salt ; spread 
ov^er  it  a layer  of  torce-meat,  then  one  of  seasoned  veal,  then  ham, 
and  then  another  of  force-meat,  and  roll  fowl  over,  making  skin 
meet  at  back.  Line  the  paste  with  force-meat,  put  in  fowl,  fill  up 
cavities  with  slices  of  seasoned  veal  and  ham 
and' force-meat, wet  rim  of  pie,  put  on  the  cover, 
pinch  together  with  pastry  pinchers,  and 
decorate  with  leaves  of  paste  and  brush  over  pastry  Pinchers, 
with  yolk  of  egg,  or  brush  with  egg  before  adding  leaves,  and  then 
the  pie  will  bake  a rich  brown  and  the  leaves  remain  a pale  color, 
giving  a very  pretty  effect.  Make  a good  gravy  from  the  bones, 
pour  it  through  a funnel  into  the  hole  at  fop  of  pie,  and  bake  four 
liours.  Serve  when  cold,  The  gravy  must  be  considerably  reduced, 
before  it  is  poured  into  the  pie,  as,  when  cold,  it  should  form  a cold 
jelly.  This  is  suitable  for  all  kinds  of  poultry  or  game,  using  one  or 
more  birds,  according  to  the  size  of  pie  intended  to  be  made ; but 
birds  must  always  be  boned.  Truffles,  mushrooms,  etc.,  added  to 
pie,  make  it  much  nicer ; and,  to  enrich  it,  lard  the  fleshy  parts  of 
the  poultry  or  game  with  thin  strips  of  bacon.  This  method  of 
forming  raised  pies  in  a mold  is  generally  called  a Timbale^  and  has 
the  advantage  of  being  more  easily  made  than  one  where  the  paste 
is  raised  by  the  hands  ; the  crust,  besides,  being  eatable. 

Meat  Roll. — Chop  any  cold  meat  very  fine,  add  an  equal  quan- 
tity mashed  potato,  or  finely-chopped  boiled  potato,  one  egg,  a little 
chopped  onion  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper  and  a pinch  sugar. 
Make  into  a roll  nine  inches  long  and  three  inches  wide,  oi?  any  size 
wished  ; place  in  fr3dng-pan  with  a little  hot  drip- 
pings or  lard  and  brown  all  around  +urning  as 
needed ; or  bake  in  oven.  Serve  hot  on  platter 
r.oii.  surrounded  by  a nice  gravy,  made  in  the  pan,  or 

little  onion  pickles.  It  is  nice  for  tea  or  lunch  sliced  cold,  and  gar- 
nished with  red  pickled  beets.  For  Yeal  Roll,  chop  as  above,  seas- 
on with  a teaspoon  each  finely  minced  lemon  peel  and  mace,  table- 
spoon chopped  parsley,  salt  and  pepper,  stir  in  beaten  yolks  of  three 
eggs,  add  half  cup  gravy  and  cup  bread-crumbs  ; it  should  be  just 
soft  enough  to  handle  without  running  into  a shapeless  mass.  Flour 
the  hands  and  make  it  into  a roll  about  three  times  as  long  as  it  is 


570 


COLD  MEATS. 


broad ; flour  the  outside  well  and  lay  it  in  a greased  baking  pan, 
cover  and  set  in  oven  until  smoking  hot,  when  remove  the  cover  and 
brown  quickly.  Then  brush  over  with  white  of  egg,  and  return  to 
oven  a minute  or  two,  dish  as  above,  using  a pan-cake  lifter,  and 
garnish  with  croutons,  (see  soups)  pouring  a rich  gravy  over  all. 

Meat  Turnovers  — Make  dough  as  for  soda  biscuit,  roll  thin 
and  cut  in  circles  large  or  small  as  liked.  Upon  these  put  any  kind 
of  cold  cooked  meat  or  game  chopped  fine,  seasoned  with  pepper 
and  salt,  catsup  and  sweet  herbs  and  moistened  well  with  cream  or 
melted  butter ; lay  the  meat  on  one  side  and  turn  over  the  other, 
moistening  and  pinching  edges  together  carefully.  These  can  be 
steamed,  baked,  or  fried  as  Fritters,  and  are  very  good  cold.  When 
preparing  for  picnics,  bake  them.  Some  heat  the  meat  with  a little 
broth  or  v/ater,  seasoning  as  above  and  thickening  with  a little  flour. 
If  steamed,  place  the  turnovers  on  a buttered  plate  and  set  in  steamer. 

Meat  Wonders. — Chop  fine  any  bits  of  cold  meat,  add  half  as 
much  mashed  potato  as  meat  and  same  of  bread  broken  up  and 
moistened  with  hot  water,  a tablespoon  flour  made  smooth  with  a 
little  water,  two  or  three  beaten  eggs  and  a little  cold  gravy.  Season 
well,  mix  thoroughly,  drop  from  a spoon  into  frying-pan  containing 
a little  hot  butter  or  drippings  and  fry  a nice  brown  on  both  sides, 
or  add  flour  enough  to  make  into  balls  and  fry  as  above  or  bake  in 
oven.  Eggs  may  be  omitted. 

Bread  and  Meat. — Cut  two  long  slices  cold  meat  and  three  of 
bread,  buttered  thickly,  about  same  shape  and  size ; season  meat 
with  pepper,  salt,  and  a little  finely  chopped  parsley ; or,  if  veal,  a 
little  chopped  ham;  then  lay  one  slice  of  bread  between  two  of  meat 
and  have  the  other  two  slices  outside  ; fasten  together  with  wooden 
toothpicks.  Bake  in  quick  oven  and  baste  with  butter  thoroughly 
that  the  bread  may  be  crisp  and  brown.  If  the  oven  cannot  be  de- 
pended on  fry  in  very  hot  fat  as  doughnuts.  Garnish  with  sprigs  of 
parsley,  and  serve  very  hot. 

Ragout  of  Meat. — Slice  cold^meat,  put  in  stewpan  in  which  an 
onion  has  been  sliced,  or  several  if  liked ; squeeze  hall  a lemon  in, 
or  add  tablespoon  vinegar,  cover  closely  without  water,  and  when 
it  begins  to  cook,  set  pan  on  back  of  stove  for  three  quarters  of  an 
hour,  shaking  occasionally  The  onions  should  now  be  brown  ; take 
out  meat,  dredge  in  a little  flour,  stir  it  round,  and  add  a cup  gravy, 
pepper,  salt  and  a small  quantity  of  any  sauce  or  flavoring  preferred  ; 
stew  gently  a minute  or  two,  then  put  the  meat  back  to  get  hot,  and 
serve  ; garnish  with  croutons  or  pickles. 

Meat  and  Potato  Take  cold  roast  meat— beef  or  mut- 

ton, or  veal  and  ham  together — cut  all  gristle  away,  chop  fine  and 
season  with  pepper  and  snlt,  and  chopped  pickles,  if  liked.  Boil 
and  mash  some  potatoes,  make  them  into  a paste  with  an  egg,  roll 


COLD  MEATS. 


571 


out,  dredging  with  flour,  and  cut  round  with  a saucer ; put  some  of 
the  seasoned  meat  upon  one  half,  and  fold  the  other  over  like  a puff ; 
pinch  neatly  round,  and  fry  a light  brown. 

Meat  with  Barley — Take  half  pound  any  cold  roasted  or 
broiled  meat,  cut  in  dice ; three  onions,  chopped  fine,  and  half  cup  bar- 
dey,  washed.  Put  all  in  a stewpan,  and  dredge  with  tablespoon  flour, 
half  tablespoon  salt,  and  saltspoon  pepper.  Add  three  pints  water, 
and  simmer  two  hours.  Pare  and  slice  seven  potatoes.  Add  to  the 
stew,  and  simmer  one  hour  longer.  Season  more  if  necessary. 

Meat  with  Eggs. — Take  pieces  of  any  cold  roast  meat,  trim  off 
fat  and  mince  very  fine.  Fry  a small  onion,  chopped  fine,  in  plenty 
of  butter ; when  a light  brown  add  a teaspoon  flour,  a little  stock  or 
gravy,  the  minced  meat  with  chopped  parsley,  salt,  pepper  and  nut- 
meg to  taste.  Mix  well,  add  a little  more  stock  if  necessary  and  heat 
gradually  on  back  of  range;  lastly  add  a few  drops  lemon  juice; 
serve  on  small  squares  of  bread  fried  in  butter  and  place  a poached 
egg  on  top  of  each,  or  serve  the  veal  in  center  wdth  poached  eggs 
over  it,  and  toasted  bread  around  with  chopped  parsley  on  the  squares^ 

Bubble  and  Squeak. — Cut  about  two  pounds  cold  meat  in  neat 
slices  , put  in  pan  with  tablespoon  of  butter,  and  brown  them ; chop 
a head  of  tender  cabbage,  put  in  with  two  tablespoons  of  butter, 
saltspoon  salt,  and  quarter  saltspoon  pepper,  and  stir  occasionally 
over  the  fire  until  quite  tender ; when  both  are  done,  lay  the  slices 
of  meat  in  center  of  a hot  dish,  and  cabbage  around  it ; serve  hot. 

Philadelphia  Scrapple. — Take  remains  of  cold  fowl  or  meat, 
two  or  three  kinds  may  be  used,  cut  into  small  pieces,  season  well 
and  put  in  frying-pan  wdth  w'ater  to  cover.  When  it  boils  thicken 
with  corn  meal  stirred  in  carefully  like  mush  and  about  as  thick, 
and  keep  over  fire  until  the  meal  is  cooked,  then  pack  into  a long 
deep  tin  and  w^hen  cold  slice  off  and  fry.  Nice  for  breakfast. 

Stirabout. — Any  cold  boiled  or  roast  meat  is  nice  if  cut  into 
small  pieces  like  marbles,  then  put*  in  saucepan  with  water  to  cover 
v*^ell  and  stew  gently  twenty  minutes  or  so  ; add  salt,  plenty  of  pep- 
per, and  a half  cup  good  strong  vinegar — if  not  strong  enough  add 
more — stir  well  and  let  stew  ; put  a large  spoonful  dripping  or  butter 
in  a skillet,  add  tablespoon  flour,  stir  until  browned  and  pour  it  over 
the  meat,  stir  well  and  serve.  A change  from  hash,  and  when  prop- 
erly seasoned  and  prepared  is  very  palatable. 

''Broiled  Beef. — Peel  four  or  five  potatoes,  then  cut  round  them 
as  though  paring  an  apple,  season  with  salt  and  pepper  and  dip  the 
strips  thus  made  into  a thin  batter  and  fry  in  hot  fat  a nice  brown. 
Cut  neat  slices  from  a cold  roast  of  beef,  season  well,  dip  in  melted 
butter,  broil  quickly  and  serve  on  hot  platter  with  the  prepared 


COLD  MEATS. 


572 


potato  over  them.  Or  broil  the  beef  as  above,  and  lay  in  a hot  dish 
on  a tablespoon  melted  butter,  sprinkle  with  mushroom  powder,  and 
garnish  with  border  of  Saratoga  potatoes.  For  Broiled  Beef  with 
Oyster  Sauce^  put  two  dozen  oysters  in  stewpan,  with  their  liquor 
strained  ; add  three  cloves,  blade  of  mace,  two  tablespoons  butter, 
half  teaspoon  flour,  and  seasoning  of  pepper  ana  salt ; simmer  gently 
five  minutes.  Have  ready  in  the  center  of  dish  round  walls  of  mashed 
potatoes,  browned  ; into  the  middle  i30ur  the  oyster  sauce,  quite  hot, 
and  round  the  potatoes  place  layers  of  slices  of  cold  roast  beef,  which 
should  be  previously  broiled  over  a nice  clear  fire.  For  Broiled 
Beef  with  Mushroom  Sauce,  wipe  two  or  three  dozen  small  mush- 
rooms free  from  grit  with  a piece  of  flannel,  and  salt ; put  in  stewpan 
with  tablespoon  butter,  seasoning  of  cayenne  pepper  and  tablespoon 
mushroom  catsup  ; stir  over  the  fire  until  mushrooms  are  quite  done, 
when  pour  in  the  middle  of  mashed  potatoes,  browned.  Then 
place  round  the  potatoes  slices  of  cold  roast  beef,  broiled.  In  mak- 
ing mushroom  sauce,  catsup  may  be  omitted  if  sufficient  gravy. 

Masfed  Beef. — Cut  cold  roast  beef  in  rather  thin  slices,  and 
have  ready  mashed  potatoes  free  from  lumps  and  highly  seasoned ; 
put  the  slices  of  meat  in  frying-pan  with  a little  hot  butter,  and  fry 
slightly,  then  spread  mashed  potatoes  on  both  sides  of  the  slices, 
single-bread  them  and  fry  brown  in  hot  fat ; when  done  take  up  with 
skimmer,  drain  for  a moment  on  brown  paper  and  serve  hot. 

Hashed  Beef. — Put  into  a stewpan  with  whatever  gravy  may 
have  been  saved  from  roast  beef  the  day  it  was  roasted,  a teaspoon 
each  tomato  sauce,  Harvey’s  sauce  and  mushroom  catsup  with  a 
tablespoon  any  flavored  vinegar,  pepper  and  salt  to  taste,  a little 
flour  to  thicken  and  a finely  minced  onion.  Simmer  gently  ten 
minutes,  then  take  off  fire,  let  gravy  cool,  and  skim  off  fat.  Cut 
cold  roast  beef  into  thin  slices,  dredge  with  flour,  place  in  gravy  and 
let  the  whole  simmer  gently  five  minutes,  but  not  boil,  or  the  meat 
will  be  tough.  Serve  very  hot  and  garnish  with  croutons.  Or  cut 
off  all  the  meat  from  the  bones  of  cold  roast  ribs  or  sirloin  of  beef, 
remove  the  outside  brown  and  gristle,  and  stew  the  bones  and  pieces 
'Vith  two  onions,  a carrot,  bunch  savory  herbs,  blade  of  pounded 
mace,  and  pint  water,  for  about  two  hours,  till  it  becomes  a strong 
gravy,  and  is  reduced  to  rather  more  than  one  half  pint;  strain, 
thicken  with  a teaspoon  flour,  and  let  cool ; skim  off  all  fat,  lay  in 
meat  cut  in  small  bits,  let  it  get  hot  through,  but  do  not  boil,  dish 
and  garnish  with  croutons.  The  gravy  may  be  flavored  as  above. 
Meat  prepared  thus  may  be  served  within  walls  of  mashed  potatoes. 

Soused  Beef. — Take  the  beef  left  from  soup,  cut  away  from  the 
bone  in  small  pieces,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  a little  mace 
and  pour  hot  vinegar  over  it,  or  an  equal  quantity  water  and  strong 
vinegar.  A nice  supper  dish,  and  may  be  warmed  for  breakfast. 


COLD  MEATS. 


573 


Stewed  Beef. — Peel  and  cut  two  large  onions  into  thin  slices, 
put  in  stewpan  with  two  tablespoons  butter,  set  over  slow  fire  and 
stir  until  brown,  but  not  in  the  least  burnt,  add  teaspoon  brown 
flour,  mix  smoothly,  moisten  with  a half  pint  broth,  or  water  with  a 
small  piece  of  glaze,  and  add  three  saltspoons  salt,  oi  less  if  broth 
was  salted,  two  of  sugar  and  one  of  pepper.  Put  in  thin  slices  of 
cold  lean  beef,  set  on  back  of  stove  five  minutes  to  heat  through  and 
serve  on  very  hot  dish  garnished  with  fried  potatoes  or  croutons. 
The  onions  may  be  omitted  and  a tablespoon  Chili  sauce  added ; or 
for  an  Irish  SteiD  add  sliced  potatoes  with  the  onions,  omitting  the 
sauce.  Or  for  any  of  the  stews  flavor  to  taste  with  spoonful  tarra- 
gon or  plain  vinegar,  or  a teaspoon  mushroom  powder,  or  pinch  of 
curry,  or  a few  sv/eet  herbs. 

Beef  Fricassee.—^vii  a pint  water  in  stewpan  and  when  it  boils 
add  tablespoon  flour  mixed  smooth  in  little  water,  one  of  butter  and 
pepper  and  salt.  Cut  cold  roast  beef  in  thin  slices,  put  into  the 
gravy  and  boil  five  minutes.  If  at  hand  use  beef  gravy  instead  of 
water,  and  omit  butter.  May  be  served  with  boiled  potatoes,  toma- 
toes, rice  or  macaroni.  For  Beef  Fritters.,  cut  any  cold  beef  into 
thin  shreds,  season  well  with  pepper  and  salt  and  stir  through  the 
Meat  Batter  as  above.  Fry,  drain  and  serve  as  directed  in  Fritters. 

Beef  Hash. — Cold  meat  of  any  kind  will  do,  but  corned  beef  is 
best ; always  remove  all  surplus  fat  and  bits  of  bone  and  gristle, 
season  with  salt  and  pepper,  chop  fine,  and  to  one-third  of  meat  add 
two-thirds  of  chopped  cold  boiled  potato,  and  one  onion  chopped 
very  fine ; a pickled  onion  can  be  used  if  not  any  fresh  ones  ; place 
in  dripping-pan,  dredge  with  a little  flour,  and  pour  in  at  side  of  pan 
enough  water  to  come  up  level  with  the  hash,  place  in  oven  and  do 
not  stir  ; when  flour  is  a light  brown,  and  has  forpied  a sort  of  crust, 
take  out  and  add  a piece  of  butter,  stir  it  through  several  times,  and 
a delicious  Baked  Hash  will  result.  Or,  by  cooking  longer,  it  may 
be  made  of  cold  raw  potatoes,  which  peel,  slice,  and  let  lie  in  salt 
and  water  a half  hour  before  chopping.  Or  for  Boston  Hash^  take 
equal  parts  cold  corned  beef  and  any  kind  cold  poultry  chopped  fine. 
To  one  pint  of  each  add  raw  yolks  of  two  eggs,  tablespoon  butter, 
quart  potatoes,  peeled  and  mashed,  an  onion  peeled  and  grated,  and 
enough  hot  water  or  gravy  of  any  kind  to  moisten;  season  with  salt 
and  cayenne,  stir  in  the  well-beaten  whites,  and  put  the  hash  in  a 
buttered  pudding  dish  and  bake  in  quick  oven  half  an  hour ; serve 
hot  in  dish  in  which  it  was  baked.  For  Fried  Hash.,  take  a pint 
each  chopped  meat  and  potato ; chop  am  onion  fine  and  brown  it  in 
two  tablespoons  butter  in  hot  frying-pan,  add  a gill  of  stock  arivd 
when  this  is  hot  put  in  the  chopped  meat  and  potato ; season  with 
pepper  and  salt  and  stir  over  fire  until  very  hot.  Serve  heaped  higii 
in  vegetable  dish  with  a piece  of  butter  placed  in  ahole  on  top  made 
by  pushing  down  with  bowl  of  spoon.  Some  prefer  to  use  more 


574 


COLD  MEATS. 


potato,  and  the  onion  may  be  omitted  if  not  liked.  Another  way  of 
serving  is  after  stirring  over  fire  until  very  hot  to  spread  smoothly 
over  the  pan  and  set  back  where  the  hash  may  brown  slowly,  which 
should  take  about  half  an  hour.  When  done,  fold  like  an  omelet, 
turn  on  a hot  dish  and  garnish  with  points  of  toast  and  parsley. 
Any  cold  beef  or  other  meat  or  a mixture  may  be  used  for  this  dish 
and  if  mashed  potato  is  left  over  some  use  instead  of  the  chopped. 
For  Turkey  Hash,  pick  meat  off  turkey  bones,  shred  it  in  small  bits, 
add  dressing  and  pieces  of  light  biscuit  out  up  fine,  mix  together  and 
put  into  dripping-pan,  pour  over  any  gravy  that  was  left,  add  water 
to  thoroughly  moisten,  but  not  enough  to  make  it  sloppy,  and  place 
in  a hot  oven  for  twenty  minutes. 

Beef  Loaf. — Add  to  one  pint  cold  hashed  beef  seasoned  to  taste 
with  pepper,  salt,  cloves  and  cinnamon,  three  or  four  rolled  crackers 
or  same  quantity  dry  bread-crumbs,  and  two  eggs,  with  meat  stock 
to  moisten ; bake  twenty-five  minutes.  When  cold  slice  for  tea. 

Beef  I^atties.~C\\t  cold  beef,  or  any  kind  of  cold  meat  into 
very  small  square  bits,  season  well  with  salt,  pepper  and  a little 
gravy  and  chopped  onion.  Roll  out  a nice  plain  paste  rather  thin, 
fill  with  the  meat,  close  in  patty-shape  and  fry,  or  bake  a light 
brown.  Or  line  patty-pans  with  the  paste,  put  in  the  meat,  cover 
with  paste  and  bake.  Or  the  paste  may  be  omitted  from  top  and 
l3read-erumbs  with  bits  of  butter,  sprinkled  over.  To  make  without 
the  paste  put  the  prepared  meat  in  patty-pans,  half  filling  them, 
cover  with  mashed  potato,  put  bit  butter  on  each  and  brown  in  oven. 

Beef  Olives. — Take  an  equal  quantity  bread-crumbs  and  finely- 
chopped  beef,  some  parsley  and  thyme,  a little  grated  cold  ham  if 
at  hand,  a few  cloves  or  slice  of  onion,  all  chopped  fine.  Put  a lit- 
tle butter  in  a puin  and  let  mixture  just  simmer,  not  fry.,  for  ten 
minutes.  While  this  is  cooking  cut  some  underdone  beef  into  ob- 
long slices  about  half  an  inch  thick  and  hack  them  on  both  sides 
- with  a sharp  knife  ; then  mix  the  cooked  force-meat  with  the  yolk  of 
an  egg  and  a tablespoon  gravy,  put  a spoonful  of  it  in  the  center  of 
each  slice  of  meat,  and  tie  it  up  carefully  in  shape  of  an  egg.  Have 
ready  some  nice  grav^/  thickened  with  flour  rubbed  in  butter ; roll 
each  olive  lightly  in  flour,  lay  it  in  the  gravy  and  very  gently 

half  an  hour.  A few  chopped  oysters  are  a great  addition  to  the 
gravy.  If  preferred,  each  olive  may  be  roiled  and  tied  in  a very 
thin  slice  of  fat  pork,  dipped  in  flour  and  baked  in  quick  oven  until 
nicely  browned.  A more  simple  way  of  preparing  is  to  cut  slices  of 
underdone  roast  beef  about  half  an  inch  thick  ; sprinkle  over  bread- 
crumbs, minced  shallot,  a little  fat  and  seasoning  to  taste  ; roll  each 
slice  and  fasten  with  a wooden  toothpick.  Have  ready  some  gravy 
made  from  the  beef  bones ; put  in  the  pieces  of  meat  and  stew  till 
tender,  about  an  hour.  Arrange  the  meat  in  a dish,  thicken  and 
flavor  the  gravy,  and  pour  over  the  meat,  and  serve. 


COLD  MEATS. 


575 


Beef  Pot-Pie. — Take  two  pounds  cold  roast  beef,  cut  in  rather 
thick  oblong  pieces,  break  the  bones,  cover  with  water,  and  simmer 
two  or  three  hours  for  the  gravy ; add  sufficient  water  to  this  to  make 
the  quantity  three  pints,  put  in  a gallon  saucepan  with  level  table- 
spoon salt,  half  teaspoon  white  pepper,  tablespoon  Chili  sauce,  the 
meat,  and  some  potatoes  cut  in  halves,  and  when  it  boils  add^two 
tablespoons  flour  mixed  smooth  in  a little  cold  water.  Have  ready 
a baking  powder  dough,  or  a raised  crust  is  excellent  and  by  some 
much  preferred.  For  this  take  a piece  of  bread-dough  and  let  it  rise. 
When  the  stew  is  hoiling  fast  the  crust  may  be  added,  either  in  one 
piece,  with  a center  cut  out,  covering  the  whole ; or  cut  in  long  strips 
and  placed  in  bars  over  the  top ; closely  cover  and  boil  without  stop- 
ping twenty  minutes  and  then  take  off  cover  and  set  in  oven  for  a 
few  moments  to  brown.  To  serve,  if  the  crust  is  in  one  piece  place 
on  the  platter  upside  down,  lay  the  meat  on  it,  and  pour  the  gravy, 
which  may  be  thickened  more  if  necessary,  over  it.  Should  there 
be  but  little  meat  in  the  stew  put  a teacup  upside  down  on  the  bot- 
tom of  the  saucepan  to  help  support  the  crust.  This  may  be  made 
of  any  fresh  meat  or  poultry. 

Beef  Pudding. — Mince  a pound  or  more  of  cold  roast  beef,  mix 
with  it  a teaspoon  salt,  sprinkling  of  pepper,  and  tablespoon  flour. 
Make  an  ordinary  pudding  paste,  fill  it  with  the  above  mixture,  put 
in  not  quite  quarter  pint  water,  and  tablespoon  chopped  parsley  and 
onion  mixed ; tie  in  a cloth,  and  boil  about  seventy  minutes.  If 
liked,  add  chopped  pickles,  or  a little  good,  'well-seasoned  vinegar. 

Beef  Rollages. — When  breakfast  is  over  gather  the  good  bits 
of  steak,  roast  or  any  kind  of  beef  left,  and  taking  off  superfluous 
fat,  put  beef  into  a pot  with  enough  boiling  wxiter  to  cover,  adding 
mustard,  celery  salt,  pepper,  cinnamon  and  cassia  buds,  if  all  or  any 
rre  liked,  or  fresh  bits  of  celery  and  sprigs  of  parsley,  instead  of 
celery  salt,  also  a little  onion  if  desired.  Simrner  meat  all  fore- 
noon, adding  boiling  water  from  time  to  time  as  needed.  When 
thoroughly  tender,  juicy  and  brown,  take  up,  slip  out  bones,  chop 
meat  fine  adding  enough  of  the  gravy  to  make  it  like  thick  mush. 
Take  out  of  the  hash  bowl  and  place  on  a clean  white  cloth  and  form 
into  long  roll  about  three  inches  in  diameter.  Wrap  and  press  the 
cloth  tightly  about  it,  several  thicknesses,  to  keep  the  roll  in  form. 
Secure  it  with  cord  and  place  the  roll  in  ice  box,  if  warm  weather, 
out  in  the  cold,  if  cool ; in  a few  hours  the  meat  will  have  cooled  and 
hardened  and  can  be  cut  in  nice  slices  like  tongue.  Lamb  and  veal 
can  be  used  in  same  way.  Meat  prepared  in  this  way  is  good  either 
before  or  after  the  bones  are  removed  as  a hot  stew  with  brown  gravy 
for  dinner,  or  serve  hot  just  after  chopping  as  Spiced' Meat  on  Toast 

Beef  au  Gratin. — Cut  a little  fat  bacon  or  pork  very  thin,  put 
in  bottom  of  baking  dish  and  sprinkle  with  chopped  parsley,  onion 


576 


COLD  MEATS. 


and  mushrooms,  or  mushroom  powder,  and  bread-crumbs  ; then  put 
in  a layer  of  thick  slices  of  cold  beef,  well  hacked,  then  another  layer 
of  pork  or  bacon,  add  seasoning,  with  crumbs  over  the  top ; pour 
over  enough  broth  or  gravy  to  moisten  well  and  bake  slovvdy  an  hour. 

, Beef  a la  Jardiniere. — Put  a pint  beef  broth  in  thick  saucepan 
with  small  bunch  each  parsley  and  chervil,  very  little  tarragon  and 
teaspoon  each  chopped  shallot  or  onion,  capers  and  pickled  gher- 
kins ; rub  a tablespoon  Browned  Flour  with  a large  tablespoon 
butter  and  stir  it  in ; then  take  slices  of  underdone  beef  and  with  a 
blunt  knife  hack  each  piece  all  over  in  fine  dice,  but  do  not  cut  the 
slices  through  ; pepper  and  salt  each  slice  and  lay  them  in  with  the 
herbs,  sprinkle  a layer  of  herbs  over  the  beef  and  cover  closely,  set 
in  the  oven  and  cook  half  an  hour.  Serve  on  a dish  surrounded 
vith  young  carrots  and  turnips,  if  in  season,  or  old  ones  cut. 

Beef  with  Macaroni. — Chop  lean  or  cold  roast  beef  or  steak 
very  fine,  separating  it  first  from  all  fat ; nearly  fill  a pudding  dish 
with  cold  boiled  or  baked  macaroni ; put  the  chopped  beef  in  the 
center,  flavored  with  salt,  pepper,  thyme,  and,  if  liked,  a little  liquor 
poured  from  canned  tomatoes.  Pour  soup  stock  or  gravy  over  beef 
and  macaroni,  cover  with  bread-crumbs,  over  which  pour  two  table- 
S]>oons  melted  butter  and  bake  half  an  hour. 

Beef  with  Oysters. — Cut  rather  thick  steaks  from  cold  sirloin 
or  ribs  of  beef ; brown  them  lightl}^  in  stewpan,  with  two  tablespoons 
butter  and  a little  water ; add  one  half  pint  water,  a sliced  onion,  pep- 
per, and  salt,  cover  the  stewpan  closely,  and  simmer  very  gently  for 
half  an  hour ; then  mix  about  a teaspoon  flour  smoothly  with  a little 
of  the  liquor ; add  one  or  two  dozen  oysters,  having  previously 
B^rained  their  liquor  into  the  stewpan  ; stir  till  the  oysters  are  plump, 
then  serve.  Do  not  boil  after  oysters  are  added,  as  it  toughens  them. 
^ or  Beef  and  Oyster  Pie^^l^ce  some  slices  cold  boiled  potatoes 
in  pudding  dish  and  pour  in  the  above  ; cover  with  good  paste,  with 
a n opening  in  center,  and  bake  one  hour.  Omit  onions  if  wished. 

Beef  with  Tomatoes. — Fry  two  small  onions,  chopped,  in  two 
tablespoons  butter ; then  add  eight  or  nine  tomatoes,  cut  fine,  and 
season  with  salt,  pepper  and  herbs  if  liked.  When  tomatoes  are 
cooked,  add  pint  chopped  cold  meat  and  serve  v/hen  heated  through. 

Laml)  Squares. — Cut  underdone  lamb,  or  mutton  will  do,  quite 
small  and  coarsely  chop  some  mushrooms,  or  use  th©  powder  in- 
stead. Put  in  saucepan  piece  of  glaze  size  of  pigeon’s  egg ; heat  with  a 
little  water  or  broth,  add  two  yolks  and  when  thickened  without  boil- 
ing, take  off,  add  the  mushrooms  and  meat,  let  all  get  cold,  and  cut  in 
small  squares  ; double-bread  them  and  fry  in  very  hot  fat ; or  after 
rolling  in  bread-crumbs,  lay  each  piece  in  a spoon  and  dip  into  frit- 
ter batter;  let  the  extra  batter  run  off,' and  drop  the  squares  into 


COLD  MEATS. 


577 


the  hot  fat.  These  will  be  good  made  of  beef  and  rolled  up  in  pieces 
of  fat  pork  cut  thin,  and  fried  ; serve  with  a Pickle  Dressing  made 
thus  : Simmer  some  chopped  parsley,  onion  and  pickled  cucumbers 
till  tender,  and  thicken  with  an  equal  quantity  Kennebec  Butter  and 
flour.  If  in  a hurry,  tablespoon  each  butter  and  flour,  melted  in  a 
little  water,  adding  teaspoon  vinegar,  will  make  an  excellent  sauce, 
and  is  delicious  for  anything  fried,  as  breaded  chops,  croquettes,  etc. 
Mashed,  cold  cooked  pease  may  be  used  in  place  of  the  mushrooms. 

Deviled  Lamb. — Score  a cold  shoulder,  leg  or  breast  of  lamb  to 
the  bone  about  an  inch  apart  and  season  highly  with  salt,  white  and 
red  pepper,  mustard  and ’Worcestershire  sauce;  put  on  a gridiron 
and  brown  quickly  over  hot  fire.  Serve  hot  with  Worcestershire  sauce. 

Fried,  Lamb. — Neatly  trim  slices  of  cold  roast  lamb  and  fry  in 
butter  a pale  brown.  Serve  on  a puree  of  cucumber  or  spinach.  Or 
single-bread  them  and  fry  in  hot  lard,  till  a light  brown  and  serve 
with  a gravy  poured  over  flavored  with  a few  drops  lemon  juice  and 
a httle  nutmeg.  Mutton  or  veal  prepared  same  way. 

Deviled  LAver. — Take  underdone  liver  of  a roast  or  boiled  fowl 
or  turkey  ; mash  it  smooth  on  a dish  placed  over  the  teakettle ; add 
a little  butter,  some  mustard,  salt  and  cayenne,  with  a teaspoon  an- 
chovy sauce  or  mushroom  catsup.  Spread  on  toast,  and  serve  hot. 

(htrried  Mutton. — Slice  in  thin  rings,  put  them  into  a stewpan 
with  four  tablespoons  butter,  and  fry  light  brown ; stir  in  a table- 
spoon curry  powder,  and  flour,  salt  to  taste  and  mix  all  well  together. 
Or,  cut  remains  of  any  joint  of  cold  mutton  into  nice  thin  slices  (if 
there  is  not  sufficient  to  do  this,  it  maybe  minced),  and  add  to  the 
other  ingredients  ; when  well  browned,  add  a gill  of  stock  or  gravy, 
and  stew  gently  for  about  half  an  hour.  Serve  in  a dish  with  a bor- 
der of  boiled  rice.  Curried  Beef  may  be  prepared  in  same  way. 

Masked  Mutton. — Cut  cold  roast  or  boiled  mutton  in  slices 
about  half  an  inch  thick,  and  cover  both  sides  with  sauce  made  a? 
follows  ; Put  two  tablespoons  butter  in  frying-pan,  and  when  meltecX 
?idd  one  of  flour  and  stir  until  smooth  ; add,  gradually,  one  cup  stock, 
and  two  tablespoons  glaze,  boil  one  minute,  and  stir  in  yolks  of  two 
eggs  ; season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  tablespoon  lemon  juice,  and  re- 
move from  fire  at  once.  Season  the  mutton  with  salt  and  pepper 
and  as  soon  as  the  sauce  begins  to  cool,  dip  slices  in  it,  and  roll  in 
fine  bread-crumbs.  Beat  one  whole  egg  and  two  whites  together, 
dip  the  sauced  mutton  in  this  and  again  in  the  crumbs,  and  fry  and 
drain  as  Fritters.  Serve  with  either  tomato  or  tartare  sauce.  Masked 
Beef  OY  Veal  cooked  in  same  way. 

Smothered  Mutton — Cut  cold  boiled  mutton  into  slices,  place 
them  neatly  in  flat  vegetable  dish,  season  each  lightly  with  salt,  .pex>' 
37 


578 


COLD  MEATS. 


per  and  cayenne.  Melt  two  tablespoons  butter  and  when  hot  pour 
half  over  the  meat,  and  into  the  other  half  stir  a tablespoon  flour, 
and  add  a gill  of  stock.  Let  boil  and  add  teaspoon  sugar,  a season- 
ing of  salt,  pepper  and  cayenne,  and  a pint  cold  stewed  tomatoes. 
Cook  until  tomatoes  are  very  hot,  then  pour  all  over  the  slices  of 
mutton,  cover  tightly  and  send  to  table. 

Scalloped  Mutton. — Cut  about  a pound  cold  roast  or  boiled 
mutton  into  very  small  pieces,  not  much  larger  or  thicker  than  a 
silver  quarter ; stew  the  bone  half  an  hour  or  more,  to  make  a pint 
of  broth ; strain  it  and  simmer  with  the  mutton  half  an  onion,  pep- 
per and  salt  for  fifteen  minutes,  adding  two  tablespoons  butter  and 
four  of  flour  rubbed  together  two  or  three  minutes,  before  taking  up. 
Butter  the  lower  part  of  a two-quart  pudding  dish,  and  put  in  a thin 
layer  of  mashed  potato,  then  half  of  the  mutton,  a thicker  layer  of 
potato,  the  \’est  of  the  mutton,  and  a last  layer  of  potato,  which  must 
be  glazed  with  the  yolk  of  an  egg ; bake  until  thoroughly  heated. 

Mutton  Collops. — Cut  very  thin  slices  from  a cold  leg  or  the 
chump  end  of  loin  of  mutton,  sprinkle  with  pepper,  salt,  powdered 
mace,  minced  savory  herbs  and  shallot  and  fry  very  quickly  in  hot 
butter ; stir  in  a tablespoon  flour,  add  a half  pint  gravy  and  table- 
spoon lemon  juice,  simmer  gently  from  five  to  seven  minutes  and 
serve  immediately.  The  meat  must  be  ^oery  lightly  fried,  just  thor* 
oughly  heated  through  in  pan  hot  enough  to  brown  quickly. 

Mutton  Hash. — Chop  fine  a pound  and  a half  of  the  remains  of 
roast  mutton  and  put  in  a stewpan  with  a cup  mutton  gravy  or  stock  : 
season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  a little  graf^d  nutmeg ; add  a table- 
spoon flour,  and  let  the  meat  heat  gradually  until  hot,  but  donor 
boil.  • Simmer  twenty  minutes,  and  serve  with  poached  eggs  placed 
neatly  round  the  dish,  or  on  a platter  surrounded  with  mashed  pota- 
toes. A spoonful  of  Worcestershire  sauce  may  be  added.  Some 
poach  the  eggs  in  boiling  water,  with  half  cup  vinegar,  teaspoon  but- 
ter and  level  tablespoon  salt,  serving  the  hash  on  slices  of  toast  with 
an  egg  on  top.  Hash  made  from  poultry  is  nice  served  thus.  For 
Baked  Mutton  Hash.,  chop  cold  mutton  very  fine,  season  with  pep- 
per, salt  and  half  cup  milk.  Chop  an  onion  also  veiy  fine,  brown 
in  a tablespoon  hot  lard  and  stir  into  the  mince.  Boil  potatoes  in 
proportion  to  the  quantity  of  meat,  mash  smooth  and  season  with 
butter,  pepper  and  salt.  Line  baking  dish  with  potatoes,  put  in  the 
hash  and  cover  with  potatoes  except  a place  in  the  middle  as  large 
as  a saucer.  Beat  the  yolk  of  an  egg  and  brush  over  the  potatoes. 
Bake  half  an  hour. 

Mutton  Pie. — Cold  mutton  may  be  made  into  good  pies  if  well- 
seasoned  and  mixed  with  a few  herbs  ; if  the  leg  is  used,  cut  into  very 
thin  slices  ; if  the  loin  or  neck,  into  thin  cutlets.  Place  a layer  in 
bottom  ^^f  dish,  season  well  with  nenper.  salt,  mace,  parsley  and 


COLD  MEATS. 


579 


herbs  ; then  put  a layer  of  potatoes  sliced,  then  more  mutton,  and  so 
on  till  the  dish  is  full ; add  a cup  gravy,  cover  with  a crust,  and  bake 
one  hour.  Or  cut  into  square  pieces  about  two  pounds  cold  roast  or 
boiled  mutton,  trimming  off  a portion  of  the  fat,  and  quarter  three 
kidneys;  put  all  in  pudding  dish,  season  with  two  tablespoons 
chopped  parsley,  one  of  povrdered  herbs,  salt  and  pepper,  and  half 
an  onion  minced  ; add  half  a pint  of  light  stock  or  water,  tablespoon 
vinegar ; cover  with  puff  paste,  brush  evenly  with  Ro]]  Glaze,  and 
bake  an  hour.  Cold  lamb  makes  a very  nice  pie.  For  Glutton  Pie 
with  Tomatoes^  spread  the  bottom  of  dish  with  bread-crumbs,  and 
fill  with  alternate  layers  of  cold  roast  m.utton,  cut  in  thin  slices,  and 
tomatoes  peeled  and  sliced;  season  each  layer  with  pepper,  salt  and 
bits  of  butter.  The  last  layer  should  be  of  tomatoes  spread  with 
bread-crumbs.  Bake  three-quarters  of  an  hour  and  serve  immediately. 


Mutton  Pissoles. — Chop  fine  a half  pound  cold  mutton  and  two 
ounces  beef  suet;  mix  with  three  ounces  boiled  rice,  season  with 
salt  and  pepper  and  roll  into  small  rolls  or  any  shapes  fancied,  single- 
bread them  and  fry  a nice  brown  in  hot  fat.  Serve  with  a gravy 
poured  round  them  and  a little  in  a tureen.  Or  for  Mutton  Balls^ 
emit  the  suet,  make  into  balls  and  tie  each  in  a piece  of  cabbage 
leaf;  put  in  hot  water  and  boil  half  an  hour ; serve  hot. 


Mutton  Relish. — Take  pieces  cold  mutton  and  place  in  the 
bottom  of  a meat  mold  which  has  a perforated 
lid  that  sinks  well  into  the  mold  and  is  screwed 
in  place  by  a valve-pipe ; season,  add  some 
broth  or  gravy,  put  on  lid  and  on  top  place 
nicely  seasoned  mashed  potatoes  mixed  with  a 
little  milk  ; smooth  over  and  dot  the  surface 
Bake  in  oven  till  brown.  The  potatoes  retain 
all  the  savory  steam  rising  from  the  meat,  and  it  is  a delicious  dish. 
Fresh  mutton  cutlets  or  pieces  of  the  round  of  beef  are  nice  prepared 
in  this  way,  adding  a few  bits  of  butter  to  the  meat. 


with  capers,  if  liked. 


Mutton  Stevj. — Cut  remains  of  cold  roast  mutton  in  nice  even 
slices,  trimming  off  all  superfluous  fat  and  gristle  ; chop  bones  and 
fragments  of  joint  and  put  in  stewpan  with  six  each  pepper-corns 
and  whole  allspice,  bunch  sweet  herbs,  and  half  head  celery ; cover 
with  water  and  simmer  an  hour.  Slice  an  onion  and  fry  pale  brown 
&nd  add.  Stew  fifteen  minutes,  strain  and  let  cool ; then  strain  off 
‘^,11  fat  and  put  the  gravy  with  the  slices  of  mutton  in  stewpan,  flavor 
vith  catsup  or  tomato  or  mushroom  sauce,  or  with  anything  liked 
and  heat  through  thoroughly,  but  do  not  boil.  Serve  in  hot  dish. 
Or  With  Onions.,  cook  tender  three  or  four  onions,  sliced  crosswise, 
in  water,  add  mutton  as  above,  season,  and  stir  in  thickening  of  flour. 


Mutton  and  Macaroni. — Boil  two  ounces  macaroni  until  just 
tender,  but  not  enough  to  break,  and  set  by  to  cool.  Chop  three. 


COLD  MEATS. 


quarters  pound  cold  roast  mutton,  add  teaspoon  curry,  one  and  a 
half  of  salt,  tablespoon  butter,  beaten  egg  and  gill  milk.  Cut  the 
macaroni  in  bits,  half  an  inch  long  and  mix  lightly  with  the  mutton. 
Butter  a pie-pan  and  form  into  a smooth  round  oval  mass  in  center. 
Spread  half  tablespoon  butter  over  and  put  in  oven ; when  well 
heated  cover  with  beaten  egg,  seasoned  with  a small  pinch  salt  and 
half  teaspoon  curry;  sprinkle  finely  sifted  bread-crumbs  over  and 
set  in  oven  to  brown.  Serve  on  platter  garnished  with  parsley. 

Mutton  w^th  PicMes. — Cut  cold  roast  mutton  into  neat,  thin 
slices,  and  sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper,  bread-crumb  them  well  on 
both  sides,  first  wetting  in  gravy  or  melted  butter,  put  neatly  in  a 
dish,  and  over  them  a layer  of  chopped  pickles,  and  slightly  moisten 
ivith  pickle  vinegar  and  gravy.  Heat  them  in  oven,  and  serve  with 
croutons  or  potato  balls.  Any  cold  meat  may  be  cooked  thus. 

Mock  Saddle  of  Mutton. — Cat  remains  of  roast  saddle  of  mut- 
ton close  to  the  bone,  leaving  about  one  inch  wide  on  outside,  and 
cut  into  small  dice  witli  some  of  the  fat.  Fry  a tablespoon  chopped 
onions  in  stewpan  with  a little  butter  a nioment,  and  add  the  meat 
with  a tablespoon  flour,  a little  grated  nutmeg  and  high  seasoning 
of  salt  and  pepper ; stir,  and  moisten  with  a gill  or  so  of  broth,  add 
a bay  leaf  and  set  on  stove  about  ten  minutes,  then  stir  in  two  yolks 
of  eggs  and  cook  and  stir  until  rather  thick.  Have  ready  about  two 
pints  mashed  potato  firm  enough  to  roll ; put  the  saddle  bone  in  the 
middle  of  dish  and  with  the  potatoes  form  an  edge  round  it  in  the 
shape  of  a saddle,  leaving  middle  empty,  which  fill  wuth  the  prepared 
meat.  Brush  over  with  beaten  egg,  sprinkle  with  sifted  bread- 
crumbs, and  brown  in  oven. 

Ragout  of  Mutton. — Slice  two  each  turnips,  carrots  and  onions  ; 
put  in  saucepan  with  two  tablespoons  butter,  and  brown  them. 
Dust  in  little  flour  and  stir  the  whole  to  prevent  browning 
too  quickly,  and  turn  out  upon  a hot  dish  until  wanted. 
Cut  up  cold  roast  mutton  into  square  pieces,  and  brown  on  each 
side  in  same  pan  in  which  vegetables  were  cooked ; then  add  half 
pint  hot  water,  salt  and  pepper,  a few  sprigs  of  parsley,  and  the 
sliced  vegetables.  Stew  gently  until  vegetables  are  tender ; arrange 
the  vegetables  in  center  of  dish,  with  the  meat  as  a border,  pour  the 
sauce  over  all,  and  serve.  When  in  season  green  pease  may  be  sub- 
stituted for  the  turnips  and  carrots ; they  should  be  served  piled  in 
center  of  dish  with  the  chops  around. 

Pork  Cake. — Cut  meat,  fat  and  lean,  from  a cold  joint  of  roast 
pork,  and  mince  it  very  fine  ; mix  with  it  two  large  potatoes  freshly 
boiled  and  mashed,  a little  salt  and  pepper,  a chopped  onion,  and  a 
little  powdered  sage.  Add  two  or  three  eggs  and  a little  milk,  suffi- 
cient to  make  a very  thick  batter.  Fry  the  cake  like  an  omelet,  or 
bake  in  a buttered  dish.  Serve  with  pickled  onions  or  gherkins. 


COLD  MEATS. 


58:i 


Pork  Cheese. — Cut,  but  do  not  chop  two  pounds  cold  roast  pork 
into  fine  pieces,  and  allow  a quarter  pound  fat  to  each  pound  lean. 
Season  with  pepper  and  salt ; add  two  blades  mace,  pounded,  a 
tablespoon  finely  chopped  parsley,  four  leaves  sage  and  bunch  of 
herbs,  also  chopped,  with  half  teaspoon  chopped  lemon  peel.  Mix 
all  well  together,  put  in  mold,  fill  up  with  good,  strong,  nicely  fla- 
vored gravy  and  bake  an  hour  or  more.  When  cold  turn  out  of 
mold  and  serve.  Nice  for  breakfast  or  luncheon. 

Pork  Cutlets. — Cut  the  remains  of  cold  roast  loin  of  pork  into 
nice-sized  cutlets,  trim  off  most  of  the  fat,  and  chop  two  onions.  Put 
tablespoon  butter  in  stewpan,  lay  in  the  cutlets  and  chopped  onions, 
and  fry  a light  brown  ; then  add  a half  pint  gravy,  tablespoon  flour 
pepper  and  salt  to  taste  and  teaspoon  vinegar  and  mustard,  simmer 
gently  five  or  seven  minutes,  and  serve.  Garnish  with  large  cucum- 
ber pickles  sliced  crosswise,  three-quarters  of  an  inch  thick.  This  is 
also  a nice  garnish  for  Fried  Salt  Pork,  serving  a ring  or  two  with 
the  meat. 

Pork  Hash. — Chop  fine  bits  of  cold  boiled  pork,  and  put  into 
a hot  frying-pan.  Fry  until  brown,  and  pour  off  nearly  all  the 
grease.  Have  ready  some  chopped  potatoes ; mix  with  pork,  add  a 
little  water  to  prevent  burning,  season,  and  cook  like  any  other  hash. 
Add  a little  chopped  onion  if  liked,  and  a teaspoon  dry  mustard  or 
prepared  horse-radish  gives  a nice  relish  to  this  as  well  as  Beef  Hash. 

Sausage  Rolls.— very  fine  a half  pound  cold  pork,  also 
four  sage  leaves  and  mix  with  the  meat.  Season  with  half  teaspoon 
pepper,  grain  of  cayenne,  and  haH  teaspoon  salt,  and  moisten  with 
a little  gravy.  Make  a dough  of  a pint  of  flour,  teaspoon  baking* 
powder,  one  and  a half  gills  cold  water,  four  tablespoons  butter,  an 
egg  and  half  teaspoon  salt ; knead  lightly,  roll  out  quarter  of  an  inch 
thick,  cut  into  pieces  four  inches  Tong  and  three  wide  and  brush 
edges  with  white  of  egg ; put  a portion  of  the  chopped  pork  in  each 
piece,  gather  up  the  edges,  pinch  together,  brush  over  with  beaten 
white  of  egg,  put  on  floured  tin  and  bake  in  hot  oven  half  an  hour. 
Any  cold  meat  may  be  used. 

Ham  Balls. — Chop  fine  cold  cooked  ham  : add  an  egg  for  each 
person,  and  a little  flour ; beat  together,  make  into  balls,  and  fry 
brown  in  hot  butter.  Or  mix  four  ounces  grated  or  finely  chopped 
cold  ham  with  a pint  mashed  potato,  a half  gill  cream  to  which  two 
tablespoons  butter  have  been  added,  and  season  with  half  teaspoon 
pepper.  Make  into  round  or  oval  balls,  put  in  frying  basket  and 
brown  in  hot  fat.  Pile  on  platter  and  garnish  with  curled  parsley. 

Ham  Omelet. — Chop  fine  half  pound  cold  boiled  ham ; add  four 
well-beaten  eggs,  with  a little  salt  and  pepper ; then  place  in  pan  a 
small  piece  butter,  put  in  mixture  and  brown. 


682 


COLD  MEATS. 


Ham  Pie. — Pick  cold  ham  into  small  fine  pieces ; boil  a cup 
rice,  beat  up  two  eggs  and  stir  in  with  the  ham  and  rice  ; season  with 
pepper,  salt  and  onions,  put  into  a deep  pan,  with  crust,  and  bake. 

Ham  Puifs. — Stir  a pint  flour  into  pint  boiling  water,  mix,  beat 
well,  and  cook  until  the  stiff  batter  parts  from  the  bowl,  then  beat 
in  four  eggs  one  by  one ; add  three  ounces  finely  chopped  ham  and 
a pinch  of  cayenne,  or  two-thirds  teaspoon  curry,  and  half  teaspoon 
salt,  unless  the  ham  is  quite  salt.  Drop  in  deep  hot  lard,  in  bits 
.ndf  as  large  as  an  egg.  A side  dish  for  dinner;  nice  with  chicken, 
turkey,  or  veal. 

Ham  Relish. — Cut  small  slices  of  cold  ham,  and  fry  in  their 
own  fat.  Place  in  warm  dish  and  keep  covered  while  preparing 
this  sauce:  Take  two  teaspoons  made  mustard,  generous  pinch  of 
pepper,  teaspoon  white  sugar,  half  cup  vinegar,  half  teaspoon  corn- 
starch, mix  well,  and  add  to  gravy  in  the  pan ; boil  up  once  or  twice 
and  pour  hot  over  ham.  Cover  and  send  to  table. 

Grated  Ham. — This  is  one  of  the  nicest  relishes  for  supper  or 
lunch.  Cut  a good-sized  piece  from  the  thickest  portion  of  a boiled 
ham,  trim  off*  the  fat,  grate  the  lean  part,  and  put  in  the  center  of  a 
])latter ; slice  some  tinv  slips  of  the  fat  and  place  around  the  edge, 
together  with  some  tender  hearts  of  lettuce-heads,  and  serve  for  sup- 
per or  lunch.  For  Ham  Sandwiches,  place  between  thin  slices  of 
l)uttered  bread. 

Scalloped  Ham. — Chop  fine  the  scraps  left  from  boiled  ham, 
add  some  of  the  fat  also  chopped,  and  put  in  an  earthen  pudding 
dish,  first  a la^^er  of  bread-crumbs,  then  a layer  of  mixed  fat  and 
lean,  then  another  layer  of  crumbs,  and  so  on  till  all  are  used,  putting 
a few  bits  of  fat  over  top  ; pour  over  it  a little  water,  or  a dressing  of 
some  kind,  and  set  in  oven  till  a* nice  brown.  This  is  delicious  for 
breakfast,  or  for  a picked  up  dinner,  after  having  made  a Ham  Soup 
from  the  bone,  well  cracked  and  simmered  for  three  hours  with  a 
few  sliced  potatoes  and  rice,  or  dried  corn  and  beans  which  have  first 
been  soaked  and  parboiled. 

StuiFed  Ham. — A nice  way  of  re-serving  a ham  from  which  few 
slices  have  been  Cut  is  to  make  a stuffing  of  bread-crumbs,  seasoned 
with  pepper  and  celery  seed,  and  heated  with  a small  bit  of  butter. 
Fill  space  in  ham  with  this  dressing,  restoring  as  far  as  possible  the 
iorm  of  ham,  and  leaving  a smooth  surface  ; heat  slowly  in  oven  and 
bake  half  an  hour,  then  cover  with  arated  bread  and  sprinkling  of 
sugar ; brown,  and  serve.  Or  fill  space  with  seasoned  mashed  potato. 

Ham  vnth  Currant  Jplly. — "Put  half  glass  of  currant  jelly,  a 
small  bit  of  butter,  and  a little  pepper  in  saucepan  ; when  hot,  put 
in  thinly-sliced  boiled  ham  and  let  thoroughly  heat  and  serve  at 


COLD  MEATSo 


583 


once.  For  Ham  luith  Vinegar^  cut  cold  ham  thin,  and  broil  it ; 
place  on  platter  and  pour  over  two  or  three  spoonfuls  hot  vinegar 
and  pepper.  If  vinegar  is  very  strong,  add  a little  water. 

Curried  Veal. — Slice  four  onions  and  two  apples,  and  fry  in  a 
little  butter ; then  take  out,  cut  cold  roast  veal  into  neat  cutlets,  and 
fry  these  a pale  brown ; add  two  tablespoons  curry-powder  and 
flour,  put  in  onions,  apples,  and  a little  broth  or  water,  and  stew 
gently  till  quite  tender ; add  a tablespoon  lemon  juice,  and  serve 
with  an  edging  of  boiled  rice.  May  be  ornamented  with  pickles, 
capsicums,  and  gherkins  arranged  prettily  on  top. 

Hashed  VedH. — Take  half  pint  each  cold  veal  minced  fine  and 
dry  bread-crumbs ; mix,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  add  gravy  or 
white  sauce,  heat  thoroughly  but  do  not  boil  and  serve  on  slices  of 
buttered  toast.  Or  fried  bread-crumbs  may  be  lightly  strewn  ovei 
or  served  in  little  heaps  on  the  meat,  or  Force-meat  Balls  used  a? 
garnish.  Or  take  about  a pound  of  cold  roast  veal,  and  should  there; 
be  any  bones,  dredge  them  with  flour,  and  put  in  stewpan  with  the 
brown  outside  from  the  roast  and  a few  meat  trimmings ; add  a pird 
or  more  of  water,  an  onion  cut  in  slices,  a half  teaspoon  lemon  peel, 
blade  of  mace,  pounded,  two  or  three  young  carrots  and  bunch  (if 
sweet  herbs  ; simmer  these  well  an  hour,  and  strain  the  liquor.  Ru  o 
a little  flour  into  some  butter ; add  this  to  the  gravy,  set  it  on  tl » 
fire,  and  when  it  boils,  skim  well.  Mince  the  veal  finely  by  cuttin^ 
not  chopping  it  and  put  in  the  gravy ; let  warm  through  graduall 
add  the  lemon  juice  and  cream,  and  when  on  point  of  boiling,  ser\’  /«. 
Garnish  with  croutons  and  slices  of  bacon  rolled  and  toasted.  Fore  ^ 
meat  Balls  may  also  be  added.  If  more  lemon  peel  is  liked  add 
little  to  the  veal,  after  it  is  warmed  in  Ihe  gravy. 

Molded  Yeab. — Mince  three-fourths  pound  cold  roast  veal  vei  • 
fine,  after  removing  from  it  all  skin  and  outside  pieces,  and  chop  ^ 
small  slice- of  bacon  ; mix  these  well  together,  and  add  a third  of  ' 
teaspoon  minced  lemon  peel,  half  an  onion  chopped  fine,  salt,  pe^  • 
per  and  pounded  mace  to  taste  and  a slice  of  toast  soaked  in  mill . 
When  all  are  thoroughly  mixed,  beat  up  an  egg,  with  which  to  bind 
the  mixture.  Butter  a pudding  dish,  put  in  the  meat,  and  bake  three  • 
quarters  of  an  hour ; turn  it  out  of  the  mold  carefully,  and  pour 
round  it  a good  brown  gravy,  or  set  dish  in  pan  of  water  and  cook 
for  an  hour  on  top  of  stove,  then  spread  over  with  beaten  egg,  sift 
with  bread-crumbs  and  brown  in  oven.  A sheep’s  head  may  be 
dressed  in  this  manner  and  is  an  economical  and  savory  dish. 

Veal  Collops. — Cut  cold  roast  veal  into  pieces  thickness  of  cut- 
lets, about  two  inches  in  diameter,  flour  well,  and  fry  a light  brow'j 
in  butter ; dredge  again  with  flour,  and  add  half  pint  water,  pouring 
it  in  by  degrees ; set  on  fire,  and  when  it  boils,  add  an  onion  and 
blade  of  mace,  and  simmer  gently  about  threc-quaHors  of  an  hour 


584 


COLD  MEATS. 


flavor  gravy  with  a tablespoon  lemon  juice, half  teaspoon  of  the  finely 
minced  peel  and  tablespoon  mushroom  catsup.  Give  one  boil  and 
pour  it  over  the  collops.  Garnish  with  lemon  and  slices  of  toasted 
bacon,  rolled.  If  cream  is  not  at  hand,  use  yolk  of  an  egg  beaten 
up  well  with  a little  milk.  Or,  cut  the  veal  as  above,  hack  with  a 
knife  and  sprinkle  over  the  pieces  a half  teaspoon  nutmeg,  two  blades 
mace,  pounded,  and  cayenne  and  salt  to  taste,  and  fry  in  a little  but- 
ter. Dish  them,  and  make  gravy  in  pan  by  adding  tablespoon  flour, 
quarter  pint  water,  teaspoon  anchovy  sauce,  tablespoon  each  lemon 
juice  and  mushroom  catsup,  three  of  cream  and  quarter  teaspoon 
minced  lemon  peel. 

Yeal  Dice. — Cut  cold  veal  into  little  pieces  or  dice  and  turn 
over  them  a mixture  of  parsley  and  chopped  onion,  seasoned  with 
vinegar,  pepper  and  salt.  Let  stand  until  ready  to  fry ; then  put  a 
little  butter  on  them  and  fry  them  in  hot  lard  to  a rather  dark  brown 
color.  Cold  fowl  is  nice  cooked  same  way. 

Veal  Patties. — Mince  a little  cold  veal  and  ham,  allowing  one- 
third  ham  to  two-thirds  veal ; add  an  egg  boiled  hard  and  chopped, 
and  a seasoning  of  mace,  salt,  pepper,  and  lemon  peel ; moisten  with 
a little  gravy  and  cream.  Make  a good  puff  paste,  roll  rather  thin, 
and  cut  into  round  or  square  pieces  ; put  the  mince  between  two  of 
these,  pinch  the  edges  to  keep  in  the  gravy,  and  fry  a light  brown. 
They  may  be  also  baked  in  patty-pans,  when  they  should  be  brushed 
over  with  yolk  of  egg  before  put  in  oven.  Oysters  may  be  substi- 
tuted for  the  ham. 

Yeal  P^^^/^/m^.~Prepare  thin  slices  of  cold  veal,  three  inches 
wide,  as  in  first  recipe  Veal  Olives,  page  532;  place  in  dish,  pour 
in  a cup  gravy  and  four  tablespoons  cream,  cover  with  a puff  crust 
and  bake  from  one  to  two  hours,  according  to  size  of  pie. 

Yeal  Relish. — Make  a sauce  of  milk  or  water,  a large  onion, 
sliced,  a slice  of  salt  pork  or  ham  if  liked,  also  a little  sliced  cucum 
her;  add  sliced  cold  veal  and  thicken  with  yolks  of  one  or  two  eggs, 
added  after  the  whole  has  simmered  twenty  minutes,  and  it^  must 
not  boil  after  the  eggs  are  added.  In  winter,  chop  a teaspoon  pickled 
cucumber  or  capers  and  add  just  before  sending  to  table.  When 
sliced  cucumber  is  used  add  juice  of  half  a lemon  the  last  thing. 
The  dish  may  be  varied  by  adding  sometimes  a few  chopped  oysters, 
mushrooms  or  celery.  Celery  should  be  put  in  with  the  onion  be» 
fore  the  meat. 

Fillet  of  Yeal  au  Bechamel.—'TdikQ  a fillet  of  veal  that  has  been 
roasted  the  preceding  day,  cut  the  middle  out  rather  deep,  leaving 
a good  margin  round,  from  which  to  cut  nice  slices,  and  if  there 
should  be  any  cracks  in  the  veal,  fill  them  up  with  any  force-meat. 
Mince  finely  the  meat  that  was  taken  out,  mixing  with  it  a little  of 


COLD  MEATS. 


585 


the  force-meat  to  flavor,  and  add  sufficient  bechamel  sauce  to  make 
the  proper  consistency.  Warm  the  fillet  in  oven  about  an  hour^ 
taking  care  to  baste  it  well,  put  the  mince  in  the  place  where  the 
meat  was  taken  out,  sprinkle  a few  bread-crumbs  over  it,  and  drop 
•a  little  clarified  butter  on  the  crumbs  ; put  it  into  the  oven  for  fifteen 
minutes  to  brown,  pour  bechamel  sauce  round  sides  of  dish  and  serve.. 

Ragout  of  VeaL — Any  part  of  cold  veal  will  do  for  this  dish. 
Cut  the  meat  into  neat  pieces,  put  in  stewpan  with  tablespoon  but- 
ter, and  fry  light  brown  ; add  half  pint  gravy  or  hot  water,  thicken 
with  a little  butter  and  flour,  and  stew  gently  about  fifteen  minutes ; 
season  with  pepper,  salt,  and  mace  ; add  tablespoon  mushroom  cat- 
sup, and  dessertspoon  lemon  juice ; give  one  boil  and  serve.  Gar- 
nish with  Forpe-meat  Balls  and  fried  rashers  of  bacon.  This  recipe 
may  be  varied  by  adding  vegetables,  such  as  pease,  cucumbers,  let- 
tuce, green  onions  cut  in  slices,  a dozen  or  two  green  goose-berries 
(not  seedy),  all  of  which  should  be  fried  a little  with  the  meat,  and 
then  stewed  in  the  gravy.  In  slicing  any  cold  meat  for  cooking  al- 
ways cut  across  the  grain. 

Yeal  with  Macaroni. — Cut  some  nice  slices  from  a cold  fillet 
of  veal,  trim  off  the  brown  outside,  and  mince  the  meat  finely  with 
three  tablespoons  chopped  ham  for  every  three-fourths  pint  veal ; 
should  the  meat  be  very  dry,  add  tablespoon  good  gravy.  Reason 
highly  with  pepper  and  salt,  add  quarter  teaspoon  grated  nutmeg 
and  quarter  pint  bread-crumbs,  and  mix  these  ingredients  with  one 
or  two  well-beaten  eggs,  which  should  bind  the  mixture  and  make  it 
like  force-meat.  In  the  meantime,  boil  a quarter  pound  macaroni 
in  salt  and  water,  and  drain  it ; butter  a mold,  put  some  of  the  maca- 
roni at  the  bottom  and  sides,  in  whatever  form  liked  ; mix  the  re- 
mainder with  the  force-meat,  fill  the  mold  up  to  the  top,  put  a plate 
or  small  dish  on  it,  and  steam  for  half  an  hour.  Turn  out  carefully, 
and  serve  with  good  gravy  poured  round,  but  not  over,  the  meat. 

Cheese  Sandwiches. — Grate  any  good  cheese,  Pine-apple  is  best, 
mix  with  mayonnaise  dressing  and  place  between  thin  slices  of 
bread.  Nice  for  a picnic  or  traveling  lunch.  When  preparing  any 
sandwiches  for  such  an  object  do  not  make  the  dressing  as  moist  as 
if  to  be  eaten  at  home.  The  better  way,  if  one  does  not  object  to  the 
trouble,  is  to  put  dressing  in  a glass  jar  and  mix  sandwiches  as  needed. 

Egg  Sandwiches. — Boil  very  hard  as  many  eggs  as  wanted,  chop 
or  pound  fine,  add  butter,  pepper,  salt  and  made  mustard  to  taste 
and  spread  between  slices  of  bread. 

Ham  Sandwiches. — Chop  fine  cold,  boiled  ham,  and  mix  with 
the  yolks  of  raw  eggs,  a little  pepper,  and  mustard  and  spread  be- 
tween thin  slices  of  bread.  Roll  up  like  Wedding  Sandwich  Rolls  on 
page  48.  Or  add  melted  butter  and  cream  to  the  chopped  ham  until 


586 


COLD  MEATS. 


smooth  like  a paste,  omitting  the  egg.  Season  well  with  salt  and 
pepper  and  spread  between  buttered  slices  of  bread.  Some  chop  the 
ham  very  fine,  season  with  tablespoon  each 
olive  oil  and  lemon  juice  and  a little  cayenne 
and  mustard,  then  rub  through  a sieve  and' 
spread  between  the  slices.  A nice  way  of  mak- 
ing sandwiches  when  ham  has  to  be  boiled  for  the  purpose  instead 
of  using  cold  remains,  is  to  chop  it  very  fine  while  yet  warm,  fat  and 
lean  together,  with  an  equal  quantity  lean  veal,  boiled  or  roasted  ; 
rub  dry  mustard  with  it  to  taste,with  a pinch  of  cayenne,  and  a clove 
of  garlic  chopped,  greatly  improves  it ; add  as  much  sweet  butter  as 
would  be  spread  on  bread  for  sandwiches  and  mix  well ; have  some 
cold  soda  biscuit ; cut  in  two  and  spread  the  mixture  between,  or 
use  muffins  instead,  or  bread  may  be  used.  These  are  very  nice  for 
a picnic  or  festival  table,  and  not  half  the  work  of  those  made  in  the 
usual  way,  as  it  saves  buttering  the  bread. 

Lunch  Sandwiches. — Chop  sardines,  ham  and  a few  pickles 
^juite  fine ; mix  with  mustard,  pepper,  salt,  vinegar,  and  catsup  if 
liked ; spread  between  bread  nicely  buttered.  Cut  crosswise. 

Mixed  Sandwiches. — Chop  fine  some  cold  boiled  ham,  a little 
I’at  with  the  lean , add  equal  part  tongue  and  chicken  also  chopped 
line ; make  a dressing  of  a half  pound  butter,  three  tablespoons  salad 
oil,  three  of  mustard,  yolk  of  one  egg,  and  a little  salt ; mix  well  to- 
gether and  spread  smoothly  on  thin  slices  of  bread.  Ham  alone  may 
be  prepared  thus.  Either  mixturies  very  nice. 

Reception  Sandwiches. — Take  equal  quantities  of  the  breast  of 
a cold  boiled  chicken  and  cold  boiled  tongue,  chop  very  fine,  so  fine 
in  fact  that  the  separate  particles  cannot  be  distinguished,  add  a 
half  teaspoon  celery  salt,  a pinch  of  cayenne,  teaspoon  anchovy 
paste  and  four  tablespoons  mayonnaise  dressing.  This  quantity 
will  be  enough  to  season  the  breast  of  one  large  chicken  and  an  equal 
quantity  of  tongue.  When  perfectly  cold,  spread  some  thin  slices 
of  buttered  bread  with  this  mixture.  Or  take  a few  small  leaves  of 
lettuce,  dip  each  leaf  in  a little  tarragon  vinegar,  shake  it,  and  place 
it  on  a slice  of  bread  ; spread  a layer  of  the  prepared  meat  over  the 
lettuce,  then  another  leaf  of  lettuce  over  the  meat,  and  add  other 
slice  of  bread,  trim  off  the  crust  and  cut  each  sandwich  in  two.  Ham 
and  veal  make  a nice  Salad  Sandwich.  The  meat  may  be  spread  on 
the  bread  and  the  lettuce  in  the  center,  if  preferred.  Nicer  not  pre- 
pared till  ready  to  serve.  Some  prefer  to  pound  the  meat,  after  chop- 
ping coarsely,  add  lump  of  butter  and  season  with  salt,  pepper,  nut- 
meg and  ground  mace,  instead  of  the  mayonnaise.  Spread  this 
paste  on  thin  slices  of  buttered  bread,  cut  square,  put  two  together, 
and  cut  again  crosswise  into  triangles,  which  form  on  dishes  into 
any  fancy  shape  and  send  to  table. 


Ham  Sandwiches. 


COLD  MEATS. 


587 


Toast  Sandwiches. — Cut  the  crust  from  a loaf  stale  bread,  then 
cut  very  thin  slices,  and  toast  a delicate  brown.  Butter  lightly  and 
spread  with  any  kind  of  potted  meat  or  fish.  Put  two  slices  together, 
and,  with  a sharp  knife,  cut  them  in  long  strips.  Arrange  these 
tastefully  on  a dish  and  serve  at  tea  or  evening  parties.  Sardines 
may  b®  pounded  to  a paste  and  mixed  with  the  yolks  of  pounded 
hard-boiled  eggs,  and  used  instead  of  potted  meats,  when  the  slices 
of  bread  maj^  be  fried  in  salad  oil. 

Tongue  Sandwiches. — Boil  a good-sized  tongue  four  or  five 
hours,  not  boiling  hard,  but  just  simmering,  leave  in  pot  until  water 
is  cold,  then  skin  it,  and  when  ready  to  make  the  sandwiches,  cut 
slices  thin  as  wafers,  using  a sharp,  thin-bladed  knife  ; rub  a srnall 
quantity  of  mustard  into  a large  slice  of  sweet  butter  and  cut  slices 
of  bread  as  thin  as  they  can  be  shaved ; spread  thein  with  the  pre- 
pared butter  and  lay  pieces  of  tongue  between  two  slices ; then  cut 
the  slices  in  halves. 

Sandwich  Dressing. — Mix  yolks  of  two  hard-boiled  eggs,  tea- 
spoon each  made  mustard  and  salt,  half  teaspoon  pepper,  two  table- 
spoons vinegar  and  one  of  salad  oil.  Chop  any  meat  fine,  mix  with 
the  dressing  and  spread  between  slices  of  bread. 

Sandwich  Rolls. — After  cutting  off  top  of  a French  Roll,  re- 
move carefully  the  crumb  from  the  inside.  Cut  in  small  dice,  cold 
boiled  chicken  and  tongue,  half  and  half,  and  twice  as  much  celery 
as  meat ; mix  with  any  salad  dressing  liked  and  fill  the  roll,  cover- 
ing with  the  cut-off  top.  These  are  nice  for  either  luncheon  or  when 
traveling,  and  cold  cooked  lobster,  cut  in  dice  and  mixed  as  above, 
may  also  be  used. 

Clarihed  Drippings.— "The  fat  which  rises  when  boiling  beef, 
pork  or  poultry,  the  drippings  from  the  roasting  and  frying  pan, 
and  all  trimmings  of  fat  from  meats  should  be  carefully  put  away 
in  a crock  kept  for  the  purpose  and  “tried  out’^  and  clarified  every 
two  or  three  days  in  summer,  but  in  winter  once  a week  will  do.^  To 
prevent  danger  of  its  becoming  scorched,  some  skim  off^  drippings 
from  roast  before  the  meat  is  entirely  cooked.  To  clarify,  cut  up 
any  trimmings  of  fat  in  small  pieces,  put  in  skillet,  cover,  try  out 
slowly,  stir  occasionally,  and  skim  well ; add  cakes  of  fat  saved  from 
top  of  meat  liquor,  scraping  the  under  side  well,  slice  a raw  potato 
and  cook  in  it  (some  add  a pinch  of  soda),  let  stand  a few  minutes 
to  settle,  strain  all  the  clear  part  into  a tin  can  or  stone  jar ; or  clarify 
by  pouring  boiling  water  over  drippings,  stir  over  fire  a few  mo- 
ments to  wash  away  all  impurities,  and  strain  through  muslin  or  a 
fine  sieve,  let  cool,  take  off  the  cake  that  forms  on  top,  scrape 
the  refuse  from  the  bottom,  put  it  again  in  skillet  and  heat  until 
all  water  is  out,  then  pour  into  jar,  and  it  will  be  found  very  nice  to 
use  either  alone  or  with  butter  and  lard  in  frying.  Some  instead  of 


m 


COLD  MEATS. 


cooking  the  prepared  drippings  in  hot  water,  put  in  a bowl  or  crock, 
pour  over  boiling  water,  add  a little  salt,  stir  well  and  set  away ; when 
cold,  remove  the  cake  on  top,  leaving  the  water  and  impurities  at 
bottom,  scrape  the  bottom  as  above  and  put  cake  in  more  boiling 
water  till  it  melts,  then  stir  again,  adding  pinch  of  salt  and  let  cool. 
Now  take  off  cake  of  fat,  scrape  it  as  before,  and  heat  it  and  pour 
Into  jar,  and  it  will  keep  a month  or  t’wo  in  cold  weather.  The 
clearest  and  whitest  drippings  should  be  kept  to  use  for  shortening 
doughnuts  and  biscuit,  and  some  prefer  it  to  butter  in  common  cake, 
or  lard  in  pastry,  As  a frying  mixture,  clarified  drippings  are  con- 
sidered even  more  wholesome  than  butter,  and  many  persons  who 
cannot  eat  articles  fried  in  lard  will  suffer  no  inconvenience  from 
those  fried  in  beef  fat.  Drippings  also  do  very  well  for  basting  all 
roasts  except  game  and  poultry.  The  fat  from  boiling  ham  or  from 
boiling  meats  with  vegetables  is  never  fit  for  cooking  purposes,  but 
should  be  thrown  into  the  soap  grease.  After  skinning  and  trim- 
ming the  boiled  ham,  the  fat  which  remains  may  be  tried  out  and 
used  for  drippings,  and  is  as  sweet  as  butter.  Mutton  fat  should 
a lw^aj^s  be  clarified  by  itself  and  used  for  chapped  hands  and  lips. 

ny  fat  not  nice  enough  for  the  above  uses  should  be  tried  out  and 
kept  for  soap  grease.  Full  directions  for  the  care  of  such  drippings 
^ziven  in  Laundry  Department, 


MUSH. 


589 


MUSH.- 


The  growing  popularity  of  the  various  mushes  as  a breakfast 
dish  demands  that  the  different  ways  of  preparing,  serving  etc., 
should  be  well  known  to  every  housekeeper.  They  are  either  boiled 
or  steamed  and  for  the  finer  meals  as  Graham,  gluten,  rye,  etc.,  the 
nicer  way  is  to  cook  in  a custard  kettle,  rather  than  an  ordinary  one 
as  most  of  them  require  long  cooking.  The 
inner  kettle  can  be  placed  on  stove  while  the 
meal  is  being  added  in  order  that  the  salted 
water  may  be  kept  boiling  all  the  time,  as  tiff's 
is  very  important,  for  the  meal  must  be  scald  • 
ed  at  once  and  commence  to  cook  immediate' 
ly  and  if  the  water  ceases  to  boil,  mea’ 
must  not  be  added  till  it  boils  again.  When  thick  enough,  stii' 
for  a few  minutes  to  prevent  settling  in  a mass  at  the  bottom, 
then  place  in  outer  kettle  for  three  or  four  hours.  Only  a small 
quantity  must  be  stirred  in  at  a time,  sifting  slowly  through  the 
fingers,  as  if  it  thickens  too  quickly  the  meal  cannot  thorough- 
ly cook  and  the  mush  will  have  a raw  taste  and  also  be 
lumpy ; this  is  especially  true  of  corn  meal.  Mushes  should  be 
stirred  as  little  as  possible  after  all  the  meal  is  added,  as  stirring 
breaks  up  the  particles  and  frees  the  starchy  matter  rendering  the 
mush  a pasty-wax  and  destroying  the  light,  spongy,  delicate  appear- 
ance it  should  present ; and  for  this  reason  cooking  in  a custard  ket- 
tle is  better  for  the  finer  meals  except  corn  meal ; that  can  be  thua 


590 


MUSH. 


cooked,  only  it.  is  generally  made  in  too  large  a quantity,  and  so 
making  in  an  ordinary  kettle  and  baking  as  given  in  recipe  is  recom- 
mended. Covering  and  placing  on  back  of  range  on  top  of  bricks 
will  enable  any  mush  to  cook  slowly  without  fear  of  burning.  Some 
make  in  a kettle  and  then  put  in  a pan  and  place  in  steamer.  Dif- 
ferent sizes  of  hard-wood  paddles  should  be  kept  with  which  to  stir 
mushes,  and  great  care  must  be  taken  that  the  latter  are  not  lumpy. 
For  the  coarser  grains  as  oatmeal,  cracked  wheat,  hominy,  etc.,  some 
process  of  steaming  is  best  as  they  are  better  not  to  be  stirred  ; the 
patent  steamer,  custard  kettle  or  a tin  pail,  or  even  a strong  muslin 
sack  placed  in  a kettle  of  boiling  water,  may  be  utilized.  Just  before 
serving  any  mush,  some  stir  in  a piece  of  butter,  or  a spoonful  or 
two  of  cream  and  a pinch  of  sugar.  The  coarser  grains  ma}^  be  soaked 
overnight  in  cold  water,  keeping  covered,  then  steaming  in  same  wa- 
ter ; but  the  flavor  is  somewhat  impaired  by  so  doing.  If  not  soaked, 
they  can  be  mixed  with  either  hot  or  cold  water  butwill  cook  quick- 
er if  with  cold.  We  give  below  a table,  showing  proportions  and 
time  of  cooking  in  patent  steamer.  A custard  kettle  or  tin  pail 
would  require  half  again  as  long.  In  steaming  always  keep  the 
water  boiling  rapidly  and  serve  the  moment  steamer  is  removed 
from  fire,  else  water  will  collect.  As  tastes  vary  in  the  thickness  ol 
mush  liked,  one  can  add  to,  or  take  from  the  quantity  of  water  given, 
only  remembering  that  it  should  not  be  too  thick,  nor  so  thin  as  to 
spread  much  when  served.  If  fruit  is  to  be  added  it  is  always  bet- 
ter to  cook  it  separately  in  a very  little  water  and  stir  in  just  before 
serving.  Fruit  juice  or  sauce,  or  cream  and  sugar,  or  butter  and 
syrup  may  be  served  with  mushes,  making  a most  palatable  break- 
fast dish  either  as  a first  or  last  course.  All  the  mushes  and  steamed 
grains  can  be  fried  when  cold  either  by  single-breading  and  fryinse 
like  Fritters,  or  simply  roll  in  flour  or  corn  meal,  letting  the  pieces 
lie  in  it  a while  to  become  well  coated,  or  neither  bread  nor  flour  the 
slices.  The  frying  by  immersion  is  much  the  nicer  way  but  some 
fry  in  just  enough  butter,  or  any  fat  liked,  to  prevent  burning. 
Either  makes  a delicious  breakfast  dish.  A quart  of  cold  mush 
makes  about  a dozen  slices  or  rings,  but  the  rings  are  much  hand- 
somer when  served,  and  are  made  by  putting  the  hot  mush  in  round 
cans,  as  described  in  Corn  Meal  Mush.  By  adding  a batter  of  milk, 
eggs,  a little  flour  and  pinch  of  salt,  to  any  cold  mush  or  steamed 
grains  delicious  Griddle  Cakes  will  result,  or  using  a stifler  batter, 


MUSH. 


591 


Rolls^  Gems,  etc.,  can  be  made.  For  best  meals  to  buy  see  Market-, 
ing,  and  for  their  care,  The  Store  Room, 


GRAIN. 

Pearler  crushed  barley 

Coarse  hominy 

Fine  ' 

1 ‘‘  ... 

......1  ... 

WATER. 

...3M  “ .. 

TIME. 

4 “ 

Samp  

Cracked  wheat  or  Wheaten  Grits . . 

......1“  ::: 

1 “ ... 

« 

4 ** 

Oatmeal 

,...4  “ 

Cerealine  Mash. — This  is  made  from  a preparation  of  com 
known  as  cerealine  or  shredded  maize,  and  a number  of  other  nice 
dishes  are  also  made  from  it,  as  griddle  cakes,  rolls,  muffins,  etc., 
using  it  in  place  of  flour  or  meal.  For  the  mush  or  porridge,  take 
one  quart  milk  or  half  milk  and  water,  salt  to  taste,  and  when  boil- 
ing thicken  with  one  pint  cerealine,  cooking  three  or  four  minutes. 
Serve  hot,  or  better  cold ; dot  the  top  of  dish  with  bits  of  currant 
jelly  or  any  kind  liked,  and  eat  with  cream  and  sugar.  For  Friea 
Cerealine  use  equal  quantities  cerealine  and  water,  two  tablespoons 
butter  and  teaspoon  salt.  When  cold,  slice,  dip  in  salted  beaten  egg, 
then  in  dry  ceraline,  and  fry  as  directed  in  preface. 

Corn  Meal  Mush.—^QX  the  best  manner  of  preparing  meal  see 
page  19.  Some  prefer  the  yellow  variety,  others  the  white ; put  four 
quarts  fresh  water  in  a kettle  to  boil,  salt  to  suit  the  taste ; when  it 
begins  to  boil  stir  in  one  and  one-half  quarts  meal  in  the  manner 
;as  directed  in  preface,  sifting  it  in  a little  faster  at  the  last,  until  as 
thick  as  can  be  conveniently  stirred  with  one  hand,  let  cook  five 
minutes  stirring  constantly ; set  in  the  oven  in  a kettle  or  take  out 
into  a pan,  bake  an  hour  or  two,  and  it  will  be  thoroughly  cooked. 
It  takes  corn  meal  so  long  to  cook  that  it  is  very  difficult  to  boil  it 
until  done  without  burning ; hence  Baked  Mush  is  much  easier 
made.  For  stirring  use  a hard-wood  paddle  two  feet  long,  wfith  a 
blade  two  inches  wide  and  seven  inches  long.  The  thorough  cook- 
ing and  baking  in  oven  afterwards  takes  away  ail  the  raw  taste  that 
mush  is  apt  to  have,  and  adds  much  to  its  sweetness  and  delicious 
flavor.  Some  brush  the  inside  of  kettle ^over  with  lard  or  drippings 
before  adding  water,  thinking  it  lessens  the  tendency  to  burn,  and 
the  mush  does  not  adhere  so  to  the  kettle,  causing  a waste.  After 
mush  is  made,  instead  of  baking,  the  kettle  can  be  covered  and  set  on 
back  of  range  as  directed.  For  Philadelphia  Mush  put  two  quarts 
Water  in  kettle,  when  boiling ; stir  in  slowly  a little  at  a time  of  the 
following  mixture  : one  quart  each  corn  meal  and  cold  milk  or  water, 
and  level  tablespoon  salt,  beaten  to  a smooth  paste.  Let  cook 
twenty-five  minutes,  stirring  often ; or  is  better  placed  on  the  bricks 
or  in  oven,  when  it  will  not  need  to  be  stirred,  and  should  then  cook 


MUSHo 


an  hour  or  more.  Serve  with  cream  or  milk,  and  buttermilk  is 
liked  by  some.  A little  flour  is  sometimes  added  to  mush.  For 
Fried  Mush  take  from  any  of  the  above  preparations  when  ready 
to  serve ; place  in  a crock,  pan  or  a round  can  (baking  powder  can 
is  nice)  first  rinsed  with  cold  water  or  slightly  greased;  and  some 
after  smoothing  the  top  brush  over  lightly  with  a little  melted  lard 
or  butter  to  prevent  a crust  from  forming.  When  cold,  cut  in 
rings  (slices  from  the  round  roll  from  can)  or  in  slices  irom  pan 
and  fry  as  directed ; if  wished  very  crisp,  slice  thin  and  fry  in  little 
fat  in  the  frying-pan.  In  making  corn  meal  mush  as  well  as  ail 
mushes  that  are  stirred,  the  one  important  rule  is  to  have  water 
hoiling^^  for  this  reason  a good  fire  is  necessary,  and  keep  it  thus 
while  sifting  in  meal ; as  unless  the  meal  is  cooked  as  it  is  stirred 
in,  no  amount  of  after  cooking  will  take  away  the  raw  taste. 

Gluten  MusK—Y'CiX  inner  kettle  of  custard  kettle  on  stove  with 
three  pints  water,  and  when  boiling  sift  in,  as  directed  in  preface, 
one  pint  gluten.  When  ready,  place  in  outer  kettle  and  cook  four 
or  five  hours.  I'Uis  is  one  of  the  most  delicate  of  mushes,  and  is 
made  of  what  is  known  as  dark  gluten ; the  light  gluten  being  used 
more  especially  for  puddings. 

Farina  Mush~%\hx  into  three  pints  boiling  water  half  pint  fa- 
rina, Cook  as  directed  in  any  of  the  recipes  for  Graham  Mush,  ad- 
ding the  spoonful  or  two  of  cream  as  directed  in  preface. 

Graham  Mush. — Use  what  is  known  as  No.  2 Graham,  being 
^ound  a little  coarser  than  No.  1.  which  is  used  for  bread.  Make 
like  Gluten,  except  take  a heaping  pint  to  three  pints  water,  and  it 
need  not  cook  more  than  an  hour  in  custard  kettle,  but  longer  boil- 
ing greatly  improves  it.  Or  make  in  an  ordinary  kettle ; when  done 
place  on  back  of  stove,  or  take  out  in  pan  and  place  in  steamer  for 
three  or  four  hours  and  serve.  Some  make  in  saucepan  and  coob 
from  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes  after  meal  is  added  ; set  off  fire  a few 
minutes,  as  it  will  then  be  less  likely  to  adhere  to  pan,  and  serve,  h 
few  dates  or  raisins  may  be  stirred  in  ten  minutes  before  it  is  done : 
or  if  steamed  as  above,  either  in  custard  kettle  or  patent  steamer, 
add  them  when  the  mush  is  ready  to  be  placed  in  outer  kettle  or 
steamer.  Serve  hot,  or  for  Molded  Graham  Mush  pour  in  cups  and 
serve  cold.  May  be  fried  as  directed. 

Granula  This  is  a preparation  of  wheat  which  makes 

a very  wholesome  and  palatable  mush,  and  as  it  is  already  twice 
cooked  does  not  take  long  to  prepare.  Put  one  quart  water  in 
saucepan,  salt  to  taste,  when  boiling  sift  in  one  scant  pint  granula 
as  directed  ; cook  five  minutes  and  serve.  Milk  or  half  milk  and 
water  may  be  used.  Too  much  cannot  be  said  in  praise  of  this. 

Rye  Mush. — Make  in  saucepan  or  ordinary  kettle  as  Granula, 
except  take  one  pint  to  a quart  water,  sifting  in  as  directed.  Cook 


MUSH. 


593 


ten  minutes,  stirring  constantly,  and  serve.  Use  the  meal,  not  the 
flour ; the  latter  is  used  for  bread,  although  some  prefer  the  meal 
both  for  mush  and  bread. 

Hominy. — There  are  several  kinds,  the  Hulled  Hominy,  which 
'we  give  in  vegetables  and  the  Coarse  Hominy.,  which  is  cooked  as 
Cracked  Wheat  except  taking  a pint  to  three  pints  water.  The  Fine 
Hominy  or  Grits  is  cut  in  smaller  pieces  and  cooked  as  above,  some 
using  less  water.  The  addition  of  the  tablespoon  or  two  of  cream, 
as  directed  in  preface,  is  especially  nice  for  hominy  and  barley. 
Samp.,  which  is  the  third  variety  and  is  cut  very  much  finer  than 
the  grits,  is  cooked  in  same  way,  taking  a pint  to  two  quarts  water, 
and  will  steam  in  about  three  hours  ; or  either  kind  may  be  simply 
cooked  an  hour  in  an  ordinary  kettle,  and  is  nice  either  warm  or 
cold- with  cream  and  sugar,  or  may  be  served  as  a vegetable  with  any 
meat.  A much-prized  dish  is  Fried  Hominy ; slice  when  cold  and 
fry  in  frying  pan  or  on  a greased  griddle.  Frying  like  Fritters  is 
not  so  nice  for  the  coarse  grains,  as  they  crumble  so  easily. 

Oatmeal. — To  be  wholesome  this  mus  b be  well  cooked,  and  not  the 
pasty,  half-cooked  mass  sometimes  served.  There  are  a few  persons 
with  very  delicate  digestive  powers  who  should  only  eat  the  Pearled 
Oatmeal  (the  outer  husks  of  the  grain  being  irritating).  This  and 
the  Rolled  Oatmeal  are  better  for  mush,  while  the  finer,  almost  a 
flour  is  better  for  cakes,  rolls,  etc.  When  made  in  ordinary  kettle 
have  three  pints  boiling  water,  and  stir  in  slowly  cup  of  oatmeal 
(some  wet  it  before  adding),  season  with  salt  and  boil  an  hour ; if 
too  stiff  add  more  hot  water,  or  if  too  thin  cook  longer.  But  it  is 
better  cooked  in  a custard  kettle,  when  cock  as  Gluten  Mush,  using 
one  pint  to  two  quarts  water,  sifting  slowly  into  the  salted,  boiling 
water  as  directed  in  preface,  and  placing  in  the  outer  kettle  for 
three  or  four  hours.  For  Neio  York  Mush,  mix  half  pint  oatmeal 
in  quart  boiling  milk  in  custard  kettle,  add  quart  boiling  water  and 
cook  an  hour  and  a half,  season  with  salt  and  serve.  Or  With 
Onions,  cook  till  tender  one  sliced  onion  in  one  quart  milk,  add 
half  pint  oatmeal  mixed  smooth  in  half  pint  milk  ; cook  an  hour, 
season  and  serve  with  meat.  For  Jellied  Oatmeal  boil  in  custard 
kettle  three  heaping  tablespoons  meal  in  quart  milk  two  or  three 
hours.  A few  raisins,  stoned  dates  or  fresh  fruit  may  be  added: 
cool  in  cups  and  serve  with  fruit  juice  or  cream  and  sugar.  For 
Steamed.  Oatmeal,  add  half  pint  to  one  quart  cold  water  and  tea 
spoon  salt,  place  in  pan  and  steam  in  patent  steamer  or  in  steamer 
over  a kettle  of  water  or  in  a custard  kettle  from  three  to  five  hours. 
This  is  the  easiest  and  best  way  of  cooking  oatmeal.  Fried  Oat- 
meal is  fried  as  Hominy.  Molded  Oatmeal,  cook  in  any  of  the 
ways  as  gf^ren  above,  mold  and  serve  when  cold  with  any  fruit  juice. 
It  is  well  to  can  fruit  juice  just  for  the  purpose  (>f  serving  with 
38 


594 


MUSH. 


mushes,  as  it  is  considered  nicer  as  well  as  more  wholesome,  for 
with  the  juice  less  sugar  is  used  than  with  cream. 

Cracked  Wheat, — Take  one  quart  cold  salted  water  to  two-thirds 
pint  best  cracked  wheat ; steam  four  or  five  hours  in  custard  kettle,  or 
less  time  in  patent  steamer.  Or,  soak  overnight  and  boil  two  hours. 
Or,  put  in  a pan  or  small  tin  pail,  set  in  steamer  and  steam  four 
hours  : or  pail  may  be  placed  in  kettle  of  boiling  water.  Or  make 
a strong  sack  of  thick  muslin  or  drilling,  moisten  wheat  with  cold 
water,  add  a little  salt,  place  in  sack,  leaving  half  the  space  for  the 
swelling  of  the  wheat.  Fit  a round  sheet  of  tin  perforated  with 
holes  half  an  inch  in  diameter,  to  the  inside  of  ordinary  kettle,  so 
that  it  will  rest  two  or  three  inches  from  the  bottom ; lay  sack  on 
the  tin,  put  in  water  enough  to  reach  tin,  and  boil  from  three  to  four 
hours,  supplying  water  as  it  evaporates.  Serve  with  butter  and  sy- 
rup, or  cream  and  sugar.  To  make  With  Fruit,,  stir  in  a few  min- 
utes before  serving,  raisins,  stoned  dates,  thinly-sliced  apples  or  fresh 
berries.  When  cold,  prepare  the  wheat  in  any  of  the  ways  given  in 
preface,  or  it  is  delicious  sliced  and  served  with  cream  and  sugar, 
and  some  mold  it  especially  for  so  serving,  sending  to  table ’with  it 
a sauce-boat  of  stewed  blackberries,  raspberries  or  any  small  fruit. 
When  steaming  any  of  the  grains,  as  wheat,  oatmeal,etc.,  in  custard 
kettle,  mix  grain  with  the  salt  and  cold  water,  without  cooking,  and 
place  in  inner  kettle,  putting  the  latter  at  once  in  the  outer  kettle  of 
boiling  water  and  cook  as  directed.  For  Wheaten  Grits  which  is 
Pearled  Wheat  cut  in  two  or  more  pieces,  and  cooked  as  cracked 
wheat,  this  way  of  serving  is'  delicious,  as  it  cooks  almost  to  a jelly. 
Cook  Pearled  Wheat  in  any  of  above  ways.  Some  advise  washing 
cracked  wheat  like  rice  thinking  that  separating  it  from  the  fine 
dust  would  keep  it  from  burning.  This  would  only  be  necessary 
when  made  in  an  ordinary  kettle,  and  that  is  never  advisable.  Any 
of  above  preparations  are  nice  warmed  over  with  a little  milk,  salt 
and  piece  of  butter  either  in  saucepan  or  on  a buttered  dish  in  oven. 
For  either  Pearled  or  Crushed  Barley  take  one  pint  to  three  pints 
water  and  steam  as  above.  Or  cook  in  ordinary  kettle  adding  a 
few  dried  currants,  pinch  sugar,  piece  of  butter  and  a little  grated 
lemon  peel.  When  tender  put  in  cups  and  eat  cold  with  cream  and 
sugar.  None  of  the  coarser  grains  can  be  injured  by  too  much 
cooking.  Any  of  above  preparations  may  be  placed  in  cups  or  in 
a ] arge  mold  and  served  when  cold  like  Oatmeal,  for  Molded  Grains 
are  now  a fashionable  as  well  as  a delicious  dish. 


MUSHROOMS. 


595 


MUSHROOMS. 


Although  considerable  prejudice  exists  against  mushrooms  be 
cause  of  the  difficulty  hitherto  experienced  by  some  in  distinguish- 
ing between  the  edible  and  poisonous  kinds,  it  is  considered  by 
many  one  of  the  greatest  delicacies  of  our  tables,  and  its  richness 
in  nitrogenous  elements- renders  it  one  of  the  most  nutritious  of 
vegetables.  In  Europe  at  least  fifty  varieties  are  grown  and  used 
as  food.  For  directions  for  selecting  mushrooms  and  distinguish- 
ing between  the  edible  and  poisonous  varieties  see  Marketing 
Those,  however,  who  are  not  skilled  in  detecting  the  character  of 
mushrooms  should  apply  still  further  tests.  Sprinkle  salt  in  the 
spongy  part  or  gill  of  the  mushrooms,  and  if  they  turn  yellow  they 
are  poisonous,  but  if  the  salt  turns  them  black  they  are  good ; allow 
a little  time  for  the  salt  to  act  before  deciding  as  to  the  color  pro- 
duced. Another  simple  and  efficient  test  is  to  cook  a peeled  white 
onion  with  the  mushrooms  ; if  it  turns  black  they  are  poisonous 
and  should  be  thrown  away.  If  a silver  spoon  used  in  stirring 
them  turns  black  they  should  also  be  rejected.  Another  simple 
test,  claimed  to  be  sure,  is  to  rub  a gold  ring  over  the  skin  of  the 
mushroom  until  bruised ; should  the  bruise  turn  yellow  or  orange 
color  the  mushroom  is  poisonous,  but  otherwise  can  be  safely 
cooked.  Mushrooms  should  be  ca”efully  looked  over  before  cook- 
ing and  either  wiped  all  over  with  a hannel  cloth,  which  some  first 
dust  with  salt,  or  shaken  about  in  cold  water,  to  free  them  from  all 
dirt  and  grit.  They  are  cooked  in  a variety  of  ways,  and  are  always 
a favorite  accompaniment  with  broiled  steaks.  They  are  also  much 
used  in  warming  over  cold  meats,  recipes  for  which  we  have  given 


596 


MUSHROOMS. 


in  that  department.  But  they  are  not  a necessity  to  any  dish,  and 
any  recipes  in  Meats  and  Cold  Meats  can  be  prepared  without  them. 


Baked  Mushrooms. — The  mushroom  flaps  are  better  for  baking 
than  the  buttons,  and  should  not  be  too  large.  Cut  oflf  a portion  of 
stalk,  peel  top,  and  wipe  mushrooms  carefully  with  a piece  of  flannel 
and  a little  fine  salt  and  put  in  baking  dish  tops  down,  with  small 
piece  butter  in  each  ; sprinkle  over  a little  pepper,  and  bake  about 
twenty  minutes,  or  longer  should  mushrooms  be  very  large,  basting 
several  times  with  butter  and  water.  Have  ready  a very  hot  dish, 
pile  the  mushrooms  high  in  the  center,  squeeze  a few’  drops  lemon 
juice  over,  pour  the  gravy  round,  and  send  to  table  quickly  on  hot 
plates.  Or  place  the  mushrooms  on  oval  croutons,  in  baking  pan  ; 
season  with  salt,  white  pepper,  and  lemon  juice,  and  chopped  par- 
sley if  liked,  and  cook  in  a hot  oven  five  or  six  minutes,  basting  often 
with  rich  hot  gravy  in  which  a lump  of  butter  has  been  melted.  If 
a lump  of  butter  is  placed  on  each  they  will  not  need  basting.  Ar- 
range croutons  on  dish,  and  pour  the  gravy  over.  Or  leave  stalks 
on  large  open  mushrooms,  paring  them  to  a point ; wash  well  and 
turn  on  sieve  or  cloth  to  drain.  Put  into  stewpan  two  tablespoons 
butter,  some  chopped  parsley,  and  shallots,  and  fry  for  a minute ; 
when  melted  place  mushroom  stalks  upwards  on  a frying-pan,  then 
pour  the  butter  and  parsley  over,  peppe'  and  salt  them  well,  and  put 
in  oven ; when  done  add  little  good  stock,  give  them  a boil,  and 
dish  them,  pouring  gravy  over. 

Broiled  Mushrooms. — Cleanse  as  directed  in  preface,  cut  off  a 
])ortion  of  stalk,  and  peel  tops  ; broil  them  over  a clear  fire  on  but- 
tered gridiorn  or  broiler  turning  once,  and  arrange,  tops  down  on 
very  hot  dish.  Put  a small  piece  butter  on  each  mushroom,  season 
with  pepper  and  salt,  and  squeeze  over  them  a few  drops  lemon 
juice.  Place  dish  before  fire,  and  When  butter  is  melted,  serve  very 
hot  and  quickly.  Some  prefer  to  place  the  tops  down  when  broil- 
ing, with  a small  piece  butter  and  pepper  and  salt  on  each,  and  broil 
without  turning,  serving  same  side  up  as  soon  as  butter  is  thorough- 
ly melted,  being  careful  not  to  spill  from  them  the  delicious  iuice 
with  w'hich  they  will  be  filled.  Moderate-sized  flaps  are  better  for 
broiling  than  the  buttons  ; the  latter  are  better  in  stews.  Another 
method  is  after  skinning  to  lightly  score  the  under  side.  Place  in 
an  earthen  dish,  baste  with  melted  butter,  season  with  pepper  and 
salt  and  let  remain  two  hours  ; then  broil  on  both  sides,  and  serve 
with  a sauce  of  half  pint  melted  butter,  with  teaspoon  each  minced 
parsley  and  young  onions  and  seasoning  of  pepper  and  salt ; iust 
before  serving  add  juice  of  a lemon.  For  Broiled  Mushrooms  in. 
Cases.,  peel  the  mushrooms  and  cut  into  pieces.  Put  them  in  cases 
of  buttered  paper,  with  a bit  of  butter,  parsley,  green  onions,  and 


MUSHROOMS. 


597 


shallots  chopped  up  ; salt  and  pepper.  Broil  over  a gentle  fire,  and 
serve  in  the  cases. 

Curried  Mushrooms. — Peel  and  remove  stems  from  full-grown 
mushrooms,  sprinkle  with  salt  and  add  a very  little  butter ; stew 
gently  in  a little  good  gravy  or  stock ; add  four  tablespoons  cream, 
and  one  teaspoon  curry-powder,  previously  well  mixed  with  two 
teaspoons  white  flour ; mix  carefully,  and  serve  on  a hot  dish,  with 
hot  toast  and  hot  plates.  The  large  horse  mushroom,  when  half  or 
three  parts  grown,  curried  in  this  fashion,  will  be  found  delicious. 

Fried  Mushrooms. — Cut  off  most  of  the  stem,  peel  the  tops  oi 
the  mushrooms  and  put  in  frying  pan  with  enough  hot  butter  to 
cover  bottom  of  pan.  The  mushrooms  shrink  very  mucl\,  but  give 
out  a gravy  of  the  richest  description,  which  should  not  be  allowed 
to  dry  up  in  pan.  When  done — in  three  or  four  minutes — season 
with  pepper  and  salt,  and  lemon  juice  if  liked  and  if  to  be  served 
with  beefsteak  place  the  mushrooms  on  top  of  steak  and  pour  the 
butter  and  gravy  over.  They  are  also  very  nice  served  on  toast  with 
a gravy  poured  over  made  by  stewing  tablespoon  flour  with  butter 
in  frying  pan,  adding  pint  boiling  water  and  seasoning  of  pepper 
and  salt.  Some  prefer  to  fry  them  in  sweet  oil  instead  of  butter. 
If  fried  too  long  they  will  be  tough.  For  Fried  Mushrooms  with 
Bacon,  fry  the  bacon  as  usual,  and  when  nearly  done  add  mush- 
rooms and  fry  slowly  until  done.  They  will  absorb  all  the  fat  ot 
the  bacon,  and  served  with  it,  well  seasoned  with  pepper  and  salt, 
form  a most  appetizing  breakfast  dish. 

Pickled  Mushrooms. — Choose  nice  young  button  mushrooms 
for  pickling,  as  nearly  of  a size  as  possible,  rub  off  the  skin  with  a 
piece  of  flannel  and  salt,  and  cut  off  the  stems ; procure  small  ones 
if  possible,  but  if  very  large,  take  out* the  red  inside,  and  reject  the 
black  ones,  as  they  are  too  old.  Put  thein  in  a stew  pan,  sprinkle 
salt  over  them,  with  pounded  mace  and  pepper  in  proportion  of  two 
blades  mace  and  tablespoon  ground  pepper  to  each  quart  mush- 
rooms ; shake  them  well  over  a clear  fire  until  the  liquor  flows,  and 
keep  them  there  until  it  is  all  dried  up  again ; then  add  as  much 
vinegar  as  will  cover  them;  just  let  it  simmer  for  one  minute,  and 
store  it  away  in  stone  jars  for  use.  When  cold,  tie  down  with  oil- 
cloth or  buttered  paper  and  cotton  (see  Jellies),  and  keep  in  a dry 
place  : they  will  remain  godd  for  a length  of  time,  and  are  generally 
considered  delicious.  Some  do  not  like  pepper  in  the  pickle,  and 
flavor  with  cloves,  allspice  and  the  mace.  A little  ginger  is  also 
liked  by  some,  but  do  not  use  so  much  seasoning  as  to  destroy  the 
flavor  of  the  mushrooms.  Another  way  is  to  first  boil  the  vinegar, 
adding  the  seasonings,  then  put  in  the  mushrooms  and  let  stand 
ten  minutes  over  the  fire  but  do  not  boil ; then  cool  before  pouring 
into  jars.  Some  prefer  to  let  the  mushrooms  lie  in  salt  and  water 


598 


MUSHROOMS. 


two  days  before  pickling,  then  boil  the'  seasonings  and  vinegar  to 
gether,  and  when  cold,  turn  over  the  mushrooms  in  jars.  They  wil 
keep  for  years.  Best  cider  vinegar  should  be  used  for  pickling  iv 
obtainable.  Store  in  a dry  place. 

Potted  Mushrooms. — The  small  open  mushrooms  are  best  for 
potting.  Trim  and  rub  them,  and  to  every*  two  (quarts  add  half  a 
drachm  powdered  mace,  two  drachms  white  pepper, and  six  or  eight 
powdered  cloves  ; set  over  the  fire,  shake,  and  let  the  liquor  dry  into 
the  mushrooms.  Then  add  two  tablespoons  butter,  and  stew  tjiem 
till  fit  for  eating ; pour  the  butter  off,  and  let  stand  till  cold.  Pack 
close  into  pot,  making  the  surface  as  even  as  possible,  cover  with 
softened  butter,  lay  a bit  of  white  paper  over,  and  pour  clarified 
suet  upondt  to  exclude  the  air.  Or  put  a quart  mushrooms  into  a 
stewpan,  tablespoon  butter,  two  teaspoons  salt,  and  half  teaspoon 
cayenne  and  mace  mixed,  and  stew  ten  or  fifteen  minutes,  or  till 
mushrooms  are  tender ; take  out  carefully,  drain  perfectly  on  a 
sloping  dish,  and  when  cold  press  them  into  small  pots,  and  pour 
clarified  butter  over  them,  in  which  state  they  will  keep  for  a week 
or  two.  If  to  be  kept  longer  cover  as  above. 

Stewed  Mushrooms. — Button  mushrooms  are  best  for  stewing, 
and  if  the  full  taste  of  the  mushroom  is  desired,  prepare  as  for  bak- 
ing, put  them  in  pan  over  the  fire  with  a mry  little  water,  salt  to 
taste  and  cook  very  slowly,  that  they  may  not  burn,  from  fifteen  to 
twenty  minutes,  keeping  well  covered ; when  nearly  done,  add  a 
tablespoon  butter  or  cream,  with  slight  thickening  of  flour.  Some 
put  them  on  to  cook  without  water  and  stew  only  in  their  own  juice, 
adding  butter  and  flour  or  cream  as  above;  or  stew  them  only  in 
butter,  seasoning  with  pepper  and  salt.  Serve  on  toast  or  steak.  Or 
stew  in  water  to  cover,  adding  when  tender  an  egg  beaten  with  three 
or  four  tablespoons  cream ; serve  just  before  this  reaches  boiling 
point.  Some  let  mushrooms  lie  an  hour  or  two  in  salt  and  watei 
before  stewing.  A delicious  dish  is  made  by  putting  a pint  button 
mushrooms  in  pan  with  three  tablespoons  butter,  a little  lemon  juice 
and  seasoning  of  white  ])epper  and  salt,  adding  when  nearly  done  a 
teaspoon  flour,  quarter  teaspoon  grated  nutmeg  and  cream  or  milk 
to  make  gravy  of  desired  consistency,  cooking  five  minutes  longer 
if  mushrooms  are  not  perfectly  tender.  Or  stew  them  twenty  or 
thirty  minutes  in  a pint  of  any  nice  brown  gravy,  seasoned  to  taste. 
They  are  also  excellent  stewed  in  beef  tirippings  and  gravy,  using 
two  or  three  tablespoons  drippings  and  one  of  beef  gravy  for  a doz- 
en medium-sized  mushrooms.  Or  stew  them  in  butter  instead  of 
drippings,  seasoning  with  salt,  pepper  and  mace.  Or  cut  half  a 
pound  round  steak  fine  and  fry  in  a little  butter  to  extract  the  juice, 
then  take  out  steak  and  while  the  gravy  is  hot  add  the  mushrooms ; 
toss  them  about  for  a few  moments,  then  pour  on  buttered  toast  and 
season  with  salt  and  cayenne.  To  stew  Mushrooms  a la  Crems^ 


MUSHROOMS. 


599 


melt  twc  tablespoons  butter  in  trying-pan  and  put  in  a halt  pint 
button  mushrooms,  buncvi  of  parsley , teaspoon  salt,  half  teaspoon 
each  white  pepper  and  sugar,  and  shake  over  the  fire  ten  minutes ; 
then  add  gradually  yolku  of  two  eggs  beaten  with  two  tablespoons 
cream,  and  serve  when  it  reaches  boiling  point.  Some  stew  mush- 
rooms without  peeling,  first  letting  them  lie  in  salt  and  water  an 
hour  or  two.  They  require  much  longer  cooking  when  not  peeled, 
— from  an  hour  and  a half  to  two  hours. 

Mushroom  -Mushroom  catsup  is  best  when  made  ot 

large  mushroom  flaps,  fully  ripe,  fresh,  and  perfectly  dry — that  is, 
gathered  during  dry  weather.  If  this  point  is  not  attended  to  the 
catsup  will  not  keep.  Do  not  wash  nor  skin  the  mushrooms,  but 
carefully  remove  any  decayed,  dirty,  or  worm-eaten  portions ; cut 
off  about  half  an  inch  from  the  end  of  the  sterns,^  then  break  the 
rest  into  small  pieces,  put  them  into  an  earthen  jar,  and  allovr  three- 
fourths  of  a pound  salt  for  two  gallons  mushrooms,  placing  in  al- 
ternate layers,  scattering  the  larger  portions  on  top.  Let  remain  all 
night,  next  day  stir  gently  with  a wooden  spoon,  and  repeat  this 
three  times  a day  for  two  days.  At  the  end  of  that  time  closely 
cover  the  jar  and  set  in  cool  oven  an  hour  or  in  saucepan  boiling 
water  and  let  boil  three  hours ; then  strain  the  liquid  which  flmvs 
from  the  mushrooms  through  a coarse  cloth,  and  boil  twelve  min- 
utes. Do  not  squeeze  the  mushrooms.  To  every  quart  of  the  liquid 
put  a quarter  of  an  ounce  each  ginger  and  black  pepper,  and  a pinch 
of  mace  ; some  prefer  cayenne  pepper  and  add  also  half  ounce  all- 
spice. Boil  again  till  the  quantity  is  reduced  one-half.  Pour  out 
and  let  stand  until  cool,  then  put  it  into  perfectly  dry  bottles,  being 
careful  to  leave  the  sediment,  which  will  have  settled  to  the  bottom, 
undisturbed.  Cork  and  seal  and  keep  in  cool,  dry  place.  When  a 
very  clear  bright  catsup  is  wanted,  the  liquor  must  be  strained 
through  a very  fine  hair-sieve,  or  flannel  bag,  after  it  has  been  very 
gently  poured  off;  if  the  operation  is  not  successful,  it  must  be  re- 
peated until  quite  clear.  The  catsup  should  be  e'xarnined  occasion- 
ally, and  if  it  is  spoiling,  should  be  reboiled  with  a few  pepper-corns. 
Mushroom  catsup  is  one  of  the  most  useful  sauces  to  the  experienced 
cook,  and  no  trouble  should  be  spared  in  its  preparation.  Double 
Catsup  is  made  by  reducing  the  liquor  to  half  the  quantity.  This 
goes  farther  than  ordinary  catsup,  as  so  little  is  required.  "The  sed- 
iment may  also  be  bottled  for  immediate  use,  and  will  be  found  to 
answer  for  flavoring  thick  soups  or  gravies. 

Mushroom  Omelet. — Put  a tablespoon  butter  in  frying-pan, 
when  hot  add  half  tablqgpoon  flour  and  stir  until  smooth  and 
brown.  Gradually  add  two-thirds  cup  stock,  and  after  boiling  up 
oiice  add  four  teaspoons  chopped  mushrooms ; season  with  salt  and 


600 


MUSHROOMS. 


pepper,  and  simmer  five  minutes.  Beat  four  eggs  till  rather  light, 
and  add  half  a teaspoon  salt  and  one  tabl^- 
spoon  water.  Put  a tablespoon  butter  in  a 
warm  omelet-pan.  and  when  very  hot  put  in 
beaten  eggs,  and  shake  vigorously  until  they 
begin  to  thicken.  Spread  mushrooms  and 
about  half  the  sauce  upon  the  mixture,  fold 
the  omelet  and  turn  out  on  a hot  dish ; pour  remainder  of  sauce 
around  it,  and  serve  immediately.  Not  more  than  a minute  and  a 
half  should  be  consumed  in  work  from  the  time  of  pouring  the 
eggs  into  the  pan  until  the  omelet  is  finished. 

Mushroom  Powder. — Look  over  carefully  a peck  large  and  very- 
fresh  mushrooms.  Cleanse  from  sand  or  grit  with  a piece  of  fiannei, 
then  peel  and  ppt  in  sun  or  cool  oven  to  dry  ; they  must  dry  slowly 
to  crumbling,  which  will  take  a long  time.  The  peck  will  diminish 
to  a half  pint  or  less  of  powder,  a pinch  of  which  flavors  sauces, 
and  gravies  deliciously,  and  is  sifted  and  sprinkled  over  chops 
and  steaks.  Some  pound  in  mortar  to  fine  powder,  others  use  it 
without,  but  in  either  case  put  it  immediately  into  small  and  wer- 
fectly  dry  bottles ; cork  and  seal  them  without  delay,  for  if  the 
powder  is  long  exposed  to  the  air  it  will  not  keep.  This  powder  is 
a most  excellent  addition  to  many  dishes.  Another  very  different 
way  of  preparing  is  to  put  half  a peck  large  mushrooms  into  stew- 
pan  over  the  fire  without  v/ater,  with  two  onions,  teaspoon  each 
powdered  cloves,  mace  and  white  pepper,  simmer  and  shake  them 
till  all  the  liquor  is  dried  up,  but  be  careful  they  do  not  burn ; lay 
them  on  tins  or  sieves  in  a slow  oven  till  they  are  thoroughly  dry 
and  beat  to  powder ; then  put  in  small  bottles  corked  and  sealed 
closely,  and  keep  in  a dry  place.  A teaspoon  will  give  a very  fine 
flavor  to  a pint  of  any  soup,  gravy  or  sauce.  It  is  to  be  added  just 
before  serving,  and  one  boil  given  to  it  after  it  is  put  in. 

Mushroom  Pudding. a quart  fresh  mushrooms,  cut  in 
small  pieces,  and  mix  with  a half  pound  minced  ham  or  bacon, 
season  with  a teaspoon  salt  and  half  teaspoon  pepper,  and  spread 
on  a Rolly-Poly  Crust,  made  by  mixing  a pint  flour  with  a half  pint 
shortening,  teaspoon  salt  and  about  a pint  water.  Boll  up  the 
crust,  tie  tightly  in  floured  cloth,  and  boil  about  two  hours  in  boil- 
ing stock  or  salted  w^ater.  Serve  hot  with  bread  or  vegetables. 

Mushroom  Sauce. — Rub  a pint  button  mushrooms  with  a piece 
of  flannel  and  salt  to  take  off  the  skin ; cut  off  the  stalks  and  put 
them  in  a stewpan  with  two  tablespoons  butter,  one  of  flour,  pint 
of  cream,  a little  grated  nutmeg,  and  a blade  mace,  pounded,  pre- 
viously mixing  together  the  butter  and  flour : boil  the  whole  about 
ten  minutes,  stirring  all  the  time.  For  White  Mushroom  Sauc€ 


MUSHROOMS. 


601 


select  three-fourths  pint  button  mushrooms  and  turn  them  white 
by  putting  into  lemon  juice  and  water,  having 
previously  cut  off  the  stalks  and  wiped  them 
perfectly  free  from  grit.  Chop  them  and  put 
in  stewpan  with  a tablespoon  butter,  When 
the  mushrooms  are  softened,  add  half  pint 
bechamel  sauce,  and  simmer  about  five  min- 
utes. They  should  not  boil  longer  than  nec- 
essary, or  they  will  lose  their  color  and  flavor. 
Rub  the  whole  through  a puree  sieve.  Heat  in  a hain  marie  and 
serve  very  hot.  Very  nice  v/ith  boiled  fowls,  cutlets,  etc.  Fora 
nice  Brown  Mushroom  Sauce  to  serve  with  roast  meat,  put  a half 
pint  good  beef  gravy  in  saucepan,  thicken  it  and  stir  over  fire  till  it 
boils.  Prepare  a half  pint  mushrooms  by  cutting  off  stalks  and 
wiping  free  from  grit  and  dirt ; the  large  flap  mushrooms  cut  into 
small  pieces  will  answer  when  the  buttons  are  not  obtainable  ; put 
them  into  the  gravy  and  simmer  very  gently  about  ten  minutes  : 
then  add  one  tablespoon  mushroom  catsup  and  serve.  Or  put 
tablespoon  each  butter  and  flour  in  saucepan  and  stir  over  fire  till 
light  brown,  then  slowly  stir  in  half  the  liquor  from  a can  of  mush- 
rooms, about  one  cup,  and  also  cup  soup  stock,  broth  or  w^ater, 
making  consistency  of  cream ; season  palatably  with  salt  and  pep- 
per and  a very  little  nutmeg ; put  in  half  the  mushrooms  in  even 
sized  pieces,  cutting  if  necessary,  let  sauce  boil  once,  set  off  fire  and 
add  yolks  of  two  eggs  and  two  tablespoons  flavored  vinegar.  For 
another  excellent  sauce  often  served  with  beefsteaks,  drain  a can  oil 
mushrooms  from  their  liquor  and  fry  in  small  frying-pan  with  n 
little  butter ; add  pepper  and  salt,  and  when  a light  brown  dravi 
them  to  one  side  of  pan,  put  in  heaping  teaspoon  flour  and  rub  il; 
smooth  in  the  hot  butter,  still  keeping  pan  over  fine ; when  the  flour 
has  become  slightly  browned  pour  in  the  mushroom  liquor  grad- 
ually and  a few  tablespoons  water.  Shake  in  the  mushrooms,  let 
all  boil  up,  squeeze  in  juice  of  quarter  of  a lemon,  and  pour  over 
beefsteak  when  ready  to  serve.  For  Mushrooms  with  -Dravm  But' 
ter^  stir  into  a half  pint  melted  butter  three-fourths  pint  button 
mushrooms,  which  must  be  nicely  cleaned  and  free  from  grit,  and 
stalks  cut  off.  Let  simmer  gently  for  about  ten  minutes  or  until 
quite  tender,  add  cayenne  and  salt  to  taste,  a tablespoon  mushroom 
catsup,  let  just  boil  and  serve. 

Mushroom  Scallops. — Cut  mushrooms,  if  they  are  too  large; 
throw  them  for  a few  minutes  into  boiling  water,  then  into  cold  water 
to  whiten  them ; wipe  well,  and  fry  them  in  a saucepan,  with  a little 
butter.  When  colored,  and  almost  done,  sprinkle  in 
a little  flour  and  a little  ohopped  parsley ; when  the 
flour  is  cooked  (which  will  require  but  a few  moments), 
pour  in  cup  stock  and  simmer  about  fifteen  minutes.  scaiiopsueii 
Just  before  serving,  stir  in  the  beaten  yolk  of  an  egg,  and  a few  drops 


Puree  Sieve. 


602 


MUSHROOMS. 


lemon  juice.  The  sauce  should  be  rather  thi(  k.  Fill  scallop  shells 
with  the  mixture  ; sprinkle  a few  sifted  cracker  crumbs  on  top,  brown 
slightly  with  salamander  or  red  hot  shovel,  or  put  them  into  a very 
hot  oven  a few  moments  just  before  serving. 

Mushroom  Stems. — Peel  and  trim  the  steins  and  place  in  stew- 
pan  with  juice  of  half  a lemon,  white  pepper  and  salt  to  taste,  a very 
little  scraped  garlic  and  tablespoon  butter ; cover  closely  and  stew 
five  minutes  ; add  bechamel  or  allemande  sauce  to  just  cover,  boil 
up  once  and  serve.  Or  thinly  slice  the  stems,  place  in  saucepan 
with  milk  to  cover  and  stew  until  tender ; add  butter,  salt  and  pep- 
per to  taste,  and  thicken  with  flour.  Serve  on  toast.  A delicious 
supper  dish,  or  may  be  servea  as  sauce  for  boiled  fowl. 

Mushroom  Toast. — Peel  mushrooms  take  out  stems  and  fry  them 
in  little  butter  over  a quick  fire.  Squeeze  the  iui^e  of  a lemon  ovei 
them  and  fry  again  for  some  minutes.  Add  salt,  pepper,  spices,  and 
a spoonful  of  water,  in  which  a clove  of  garlic,  having  been  cut  into 
pieces,  has  soaked  for  half  an  hour  and  stew  until  mushrooms  are 
done  when  add  a thickening  of  yolks  of  eggs.  Serve  on  bread  friedi 
in  butter.  Or,  put  a pint  mushrooms  into  a stewpan  with  two  table- 
spoons butter  mixed  with  a little  flour ; add  teaspoon  salt,  half  tea- 
spoon each  white  pepper,  grated  lemon  peel,  and  powdered  mace ; 
stew  till  butter  is  absorbed,  then  add  as  much  white  ronx  as  will 
moisten  the  mushrooms ; fry  a slice  of  bread,  cut  to  fit  the  dish,  in 
butter  and  as  soon  as  mushrooms  are  tender  serve  them  on  this  toast. 
Another  novel  w^ay  of  serving  is  to  first  cut  a round  of  bread  half  an 
inch  thick,  toast  it  nicely,  butter  both  sides,  and  place  in  a clean 
baking  pan ; prepare  mushrooms  as  for  baking,  and  place  on  the 
toast,  top  down,  lightly  pepper  and  . salt,  and  put  small  piece  of  but- 
ter on  each ; cover  them  with  a finger-bowl  and  cook  close  to  the 
fire  for  ten  or  twelve  minutes.  Slip  the  toast  into  a hot  dish,  but  do 
not  remove  glass  cover  until  on  table.  All  the  aroma  and  flavor  of 
the  mushrooms  are  preserved  by  this  method,  and  the  use  of  tho 
glass  need  not  deter  the  careful  housekeeper  from  trying  it;  with 
moderjite  care  the  glass  cover  will  not  crack,  but  in  winter  it  should 
be  rinsed  in  warm  water  before  using. 

Mushrooms  with  Eggs. — Halve  mushrooms ; stew  ten  minutes 
in  a little  butter  seasoned  with  pepper  and  salt  and  a very  little  water ; 
drain  and  put  them  into  pudding  dish  ; break  in  enough  eggs  to  cover 
them  over  the  top,  and  scatter  pepper,  salt  and  bits  of  butter  oyer  > 
strew  with  bread-crumbs  and  bake  until  eggs  are  set.  Serve  dish. 


PASTRY. 


603 


PASTRl?. 


Butter  or  lard  for  pastry  should  be  sweet,  fresh  and  solid.  When 
freshly  made  butter  cannot  be  had,  wash  well,  kneading  while  under 
cold  water,  changing  the  water  tYfo  or  three  times,  and  then  wiping 
dry  with  a napkin.  The  board  on  which  the  butter  is  rolled  should 
he  hard  and  smooth  and  never  used  for  any  other  purpose,  A very 
idee  paste  for  family  use  may  be  made  by  reducing  the  quantity  of 
shortening  to  even  so  little  as  a half  pound  to  a quart  of  flour,  espec- 
ially when  children  or  dyspeptics  are  to  be  considered.  With  the 
exception  of  Mince-pies  and  Pumpkin-pies,  which  are  warmed  over 
before  serving,  all  pies  should  be  eaten  the  day  they  are  baked.  In 
warm  weather,  when  not  ready  to  bake  immediately  after  making 
up  paste,  keep  it  in  ice  chest  till  wanted,  several  days  if  necessary, 
and,  in  any  event,  it  is  better  to  let  it  thus  remain  for  one  or  two 
hours.  Roll  always  with  a well-Uoured  rolling-pin,  which  should 
be  made  of  hard  wood,  perfectly  smooth  and  highly  polished,  about 
an  inch  and  a half  in  diameter  and  eighteen  inches  lo.ng.  Cut  off 
only  enough  paste  at  a time  for  one  crust,  and  always  make  a fresh 
cut  for  the  upper  crust,  using  the  trimmings  for  the  lower.  For 
directions  for  lining  pie-pans  and  covering  .see  directions  for  Puff 
Pastes.  A neat  way  of  cutting  and  ornamenting  crust  for  an  open 
pie  is  here  illustrated  : Figure  A represents  a paste-jag- 
cutting  and  ornamenting  the  edges,  Bis  a plain 
circle  of  crhst  cut  with  the  j agger,  to  fit  the  pie-dish, 
C is  part  of  a strip  of  paste,  which  is  cut  with  the  jag- 
ger  to  lay  around  the  edge  of  pie,  and  two  or  three  of  these  strips 
may  be  placed  one  upon  another,  passing  the  finger  dipped  in  water 


604 


PASTRY. 


over  eack  to  make  them  adhere.  To  prevent  juice  of  pies  from 
soaking  into  under  crust,  beat  an  egg  well,  and  with  a hit  of  cloth 
dipped  into  the  egg  rub  over  the  crust  before  filling  the  pies.  It  is 
a good  plan  to  make  Puff  Paste  for  top  crust,  and  for  under  crust 
use  less  shortening.  Some  wash  upper  crusts  with  milk  just  before 
putting  pies  in  oven  to  brown  them,  but  be  careful  not  to  wash  the 
edge,  as  it  spoils  the  appearance  besides  preventing  the  proper  ris- 
ing. When  using  green  currants,  pie-plant,  gooseberries  or  other 
fruits  which  require  juice  to  be  thickened,  fill  lower  crust,  sprinkle 
corn  starch  evenly  over,  and  put  on  upper  crust,  or  sprinkle  lower 
crust  and  fruit  as  in  Berry  Pies.  This  prevents  juice  from  running 
Dver,  and  when  cold  forms  a nice  jelly.  Do  not  sprinkle  fruit  with 
sugar  until  placed  in  the  crust,  as  sugar  sets  the  juice  free.  In  all 
pies  with  top  crust  make  air  holes  or  crust  will  hurst.  These  may 
be  arranged  in  any  fanciful  shape,  and  are  best  made  with  the  point 
of  the  bowl  of  an  inverted  teaspoon  pressed  through  the  crust 
while  on  the  board,  and  gently  drawn  apart  when  taken  up  to  put 
over  the  pie.  Meringue^  for  pies  or  puddings,  is  made  in  the  pro- 
portion of  one  tablespoon  powdered  sugar  to  white  of  one  egg,  with 
flavoring  added,  beaten  well  together,  spread  over  top  and  browned 
delicately  in  oven.  Never  fill  crusts  until  just  before  putting  in  oven. 
Always  use  tin  pie-pans,  since,  in  earthen  pans  the  under  crust  is  not 
likely  to  be  well  baked,  and  some  use  a perforated  pie-pan.  Bake 
fruit  pies  in  a moderate  oven,  having  a better  heat  at  bottom  than  top;» 
or  the  lower  crust  will  be  clammy  and  raw.  When  done,  crust  will 
separate  from  the  pan,  so  that  pie  may  be  easily  removed.  Remove 
at  once  from  tins,  or  crust  will  become  “soggy.”  Some  bake  bot- 
tom crust  lightly  in  oven  before  filling,  and  others  after  filling  set 
on  top  of  stove  a few  minutes  before  putting  in  oven,  to  hasten 
the  baking  of  bottom,  crust.  When  the  latter  is  baked,  without  first 
filling,  it  must  be  pricked  well  when  put  in  pan  to  prevent  blistering. 

Short  Paste  is  well  adapted  to  lining  the  bottom  of  pie-pans, 
etc.,  as  it  is  firmer  than  Puff  Past©  and  holds  together  better.  Hence, 
when  making  a great  deal  of  pastry  it  is  well  to  make  a little  Short 
Paste  for  all  lining  or  bottom  work  and  use  the  Pufi‘  Paste  for  all 
top  work.  In  using  the  latter  cut  out  all  tops  first ; use  the  trim- 
mings for  bottoms.  It  is  a good  plan  to  make  two  or  three  extra 
crusts  on  baking  day,  pricking  well,  to  be  used  for  Cream,  Custard, 
Lemon-pies,  as  wanted.  When  preparing  pie-pans  grease  slightly. 


PASTRY. 


605 


using  a little  lard,  oil  oi  butter,  or  some  think  with  proper  care  of 
the  pans  greasing  will  not  be  necessary.  To  avoid 
wasting  flour  brush  the  pastry  board  all  ofi*  care- 
fully each  time  it  is  used  into  a small  sieve,  sift 
out  the  flour  and  use  again.  Always  have  the 
board  well  floured,  and  in  the  making  of  Graham 
paste  some  prefer  to  mix  rather  soft  and  put  plen- 
ty of  graham  on  board  and  also  on  top  of  paste,  then  roll  out  to  a 
little  thicker  than  paste  of  white  flour,  and  place  in  pan..  The  set 
of  measures  are  almost  as  much  of  a necessity  in  the  making  of 
pastry  as  in  any  other  department  of  cookery,  and  by  reference  to 
the  full  table  of  weights  and  measures,  any  recipe  can  be  readily  made. 


Set  of  Measures. 


Cream  Paste. — To  a pint  sifted  flour,  add  an  even  teaspoon 
baking  powder,  and  sweet  cream  enough  to  wet  the  flour,  leaving 
crust  a little  stiff.  Enough  for  two  pies.  For  a richer  paste  allow 
rather  more  than  a gill  of  cream  with  from  four  to  six  tablespoons 
blitter  and  saltspoon  salt  for  each  pound  flour,  omitting  the  baking 
powder.  Make  a paste  of  the  cream  and  flour,  roll  out  and  spread 
<vith  butter,  rolling  again  and  spreading  until  all  the  butter  is  used, 
in  making  any  paste  have  flour  and  wetting  as  cold  as  possible. 

Economical  Paste. — Take  a pound  flour,  half  pound  clarified 
Irippings  (some  use  three-fourths  pound)  half  teaspoon  salt  and 
lalf  pint  ice  water.  Chop  and  mix  as  directed  in  Plain  Paste,  then 
roll  out  and  fold  three  times  when  it  will  be  ready  for  use.  Some 
udd  a little  baking  powder  to  the  flour.  Half  lard  and  half  drip- 
pings may  be  used. 


Graham  Paste.— lightly  pint  Graham  flour,  half  pint  sweet 
cream,  half  teaspoon  salt ; roll,  and  bake  like  other  pastry,  remem- 
bering that  lightness  and  quickness  in  handling  is  the. one  impor- 
tant step  in  making  all  pastes  and  where  cream  is  used  add  it  slowly 

to  the  flour,  stirring  rapidly  with  an 
artist’s  spatula  or  spoon ; when 
Artist’s  rtpatula.  mixed,  form  together  without  knead- 

hig,  using  barely  enough  pressure  to  make  the  mixture  adhere.  Roll 
out,  place  in  pan,  fill  and  bake.  What  is  known  as  No.  1,  Graham 
will  not  need  any  sifting  but  the  coarser  varieties  must  be  sifted. 
For  Quaker  Paste.,  take  half  pint  each  white  flour,  sifted,  and  No.  1 
Graham,  mixing  as  above  vdth  one-third  pint  cream  and  pinch  salt ; 
some  add  baking  powder  , a teaspoon  and  a half  to  above  proportions, 
or  half  teaspoon  soda  and  teaspoon  cream  tartar,  sifting  well  with 
white  flour.  Or  sour  cream  may  be  used  with  a teaspoon  soda. 


606 


PASTRY, 


or  sour  cream  alone  will  make  a most  delicious,  wholesome  paste. 
Or  for  a Batter  Paste  take  the  above  proportions  of  flour,  Graham, 
baking  powder,  etc.,  with  two-thirds  pint  cream  or  rich  milk ; have 
the  fruit  in  pie-pan  without  under  crust,  spread  over  the  batter,  hake 
in  a quick  oven  and  serve  hot.  Some  add  heaping  teaspoon  corn 
meal  to  first  recipe ; if  last  two  recipes  are  wished  very  delicate  use 
corn-starch  instead  of  white  flour. 

Hygienic  Paste.—^^ik^  a piece  of  light  bread  dough,  after  it 
has  raised  the  second  time,  roll  out,  spread  with  rather  thin  coat 
fresh,  sweet  butter,  fold  once  and  roll  again  as  thin  as  liked  for  crust. 
If  for  Custard  or  Pumpkin-pies  the  butter  may  be  omitted,  but  for 
top  crust  the  butter  should  be  used.  Some  make  crust  by  working 
well  into  enough  bread  dough  for  one  or  two  pies,  a well-beaten  egg 
and  a little  butter  or  drippings,  and  others  use  light,  flaky  biscuit 
(flough.  Or  make  a paste  with  buttermilk  and  flour,  adding  soda  in 
proportion  of  level  teaspoon  to  each  pint  buttermilk  and  a little  salt. 
Use  just  enough  flour  to  make  a dough  that  will  roll  out,  and  bake 
In  a rather  slow  oven.  Even  a dyspeptic  can  indulge  in  the  luxury 
of  a pie  made  in  this  way. 

Oatmeal  Paste. — Use  fine  oatmeal  instead  of  the  Graham,  as  in 
third  recipe,  mixing  as  directed  and  rolling  out  quite  thin.  Or  after 
greasing  the  pie-pans  sift  over  a layer  of  oatmeal  or  oatmeal  and 
corn  meal  mixed ; or  for  Corn  Meal  Paste  sprinkle  only  with  the 
latter.  The  last  two  pastes  are  only  for  pies  baked  with  one  crust, 
being  used  by  some  for  Pumpkin  or  Squash-pies. 

Plain  Paste. — One  coffee-cup  lard,  three  of  sifted  flour,  and 
a little  salt.  In  winter  soften  the  lard  a little  (but  not  in  summer), 
cut  it  well  into  flour  with  a knife,  some  chop  together  in  chopping 
bowl,  then  mix  with  ice-cold  water  quickly  to  a moderately  stiff 
dough,  handling  as  little  as  possible.  This  makes  four  common- 
sixed  covered  pies.  Take*  a new  slice  of  paste  each  time  for  top 
crust,  and  after  rolling  out  spread  teaspoon  butter  over  half,  fold 
and  roll  again,  being  careful  that  the  butter  does  not  press  out ; use 
the  trimmings,  etc.,  for  under  crust.  Some  give  the  paste  a second 
fold  in  the  opposite  direction  after  spreading  with  butter  before  roll- 
ing, and  also  claim  that  a little  mashed  potato  may  be  mixed  in  the 
dough  before  rolling,  to  make  the  crust  shorter  when  butter  is  not 
used.  Some  prefer  to  use  only  one-fourfli  as  much  lard  or  butter 
as  flour,  level  teaspoon  salt,  and  rub  it  into  the  flour  with  the  hands 
until  so  thoroughly  mixed  as  to  look  like  meal.  Add  just  enough 
water  to  make  a dough  that  can  he  rolled  out.  If  made  with  butter, 
this  Florida  Paste  is  one  of  the  simplest  and  most  delicious  of 
pastry.  For  Nantucket  Paste.,  take  pound  sifted  flour,  quarter 
pound  each  lard  and  butter,  half  pint  ice  water  and  little  salt.  Chop 
the  lard  fine  in  the  flour,  adding  salt,  mix  with  water,  then  roll  out, 


PASTRY. 


607 


spread  with  butter,  fold  as  above,  roll  out  again,  and  so  continue 
until  all  the  butter  is  used.  Some  sift  a very  little  flour  evenly  over 
the  paste  before  spreading  with  butter,  and  others  brush  it  over  with 
beaten  white  of  an  egg.  The  paste  is  nicer  with  all  butter  instead 
of  half  lard,  and  it  may  all  be  mixed  with  the  flour,  or  half  reserved 
to  spread  and  roll  as  above.  Some  use  a quarter  pound  more  flour. 
If  for  sweet  tarts,  add  two  tablespoons  powdered  sugar  before  rolling. 

Potato  Paste. — Take  a quarter  pound  nice  mashed  potato,  rub 
through  colander  and  mix  thoroughly  with  pint  and  a half  flour, 
three  tablespoons  butter  and  a little  salt ; then  mix  all  to  a paste 
moderately  stiff  with  cold  water  or  milk,  and  roll.  Bean  Paste 
may  be  made  same  way.  When  used  for  pies,  roil  these  pastes  a 
little  thicker  than  paste  shortened  with  lard.  Nice  for  boiled  or 
steamed  puddings.  All,  or  half  Graham  flour  may  be  used. 

PuiF  Paste. — Only  the  best  and  freshest  of  butter,  firm  and 
solid,  and  of  good  flavor,  and  the  finest  quality  of  flour,  thoroughly 
sifted,  can  be  used  successfully  in  making  puff*  paste.  The  water 
used  should  be  ice  cold,  and  the  quantity  required  depends  upon 
the  capacity  of  the  flour  to  absorb  it,  which  is  quite  variable ; too 
little  makes  the  paste  tough,  and  too  much  makes  it  thin,  and  pre- 
vents the  flakiness  so  desirable.  The  most  perfect  cleanliness  of  the 
hands  and  everything  used  is  of  course  necessary.  Handle  as  little 
as  possible  throughout  the  whole  process,  and  let  every  touch  be 
quick  and  light.  A stone  or  marble  slab  is  best  for  pastry,  and  one  is 
usually  fitted  smoothly  into  the  shelf  of  every  well-appointed  pantry 
and  a glass  rolling  pin  will  be  found  desirable.  Always  make  the 
paste  in  a cool  place,  in  warm  weather  near  an  open  window^  if  pos* 
gible.  Good  puff  paste  is  that  which  rises  highest,  is  lightest,  and 
which  contracts  but  little  in  rising.  Puff  paste,  the  flakes  of  which 
can  be  pushed  off  whole,  or  which,  in  the  rising,  is  considerably 
smaller  on  top  than  bottom,  is  not  good.  To  make  Good  Pun 
Paste.,  take  three-fourths  pound  butter,  of  the  best  quality,  free  it 
from  salt,  by  working  it  in  water,  form  in  a square  piece,  and  place 
it  in  flour  in  a cool  place  for  half  an  hour  to  harden  ; place  one  pound 
sifted  flour  in  a bowl,  rub  two  tablespoons  butter  well  into  the  flour 
and  wet  into  dough  with  cold  water,  using  about  a scant  half  pint, 
making  it  as  nearly  as  possible  the  same  consistency  as  the  butter, 
so  that  the  two  will  roll  out  evenl/ together  ; place  the  dough  on  the 
pastry  slab,  dust  it  under  and  over  with  flour,  and  roll  it  out  in  a 
piece  say  twelve  inches  long  and  six  wide  ; flour  the  butter  well,  and 
roll  that  out  in  a sheet  two-thirds  the  thickness  of  the  dough,  about 
eight  inches  long  and  five  wide ; this  will  cover  about  two-thirds  of 
dough,  leaving  one-third  of  dough,  and  about  half  an  inch  around 
the  sides  and  top  edge,  without  butter ; place  the  sheet  of  butter  on 
dough,  mix  a half  teaspoon  cream  tartar  with  tablespoon  flour,  and 
sprinkle  it  evenly  over  the  butter ; now  fold  the  dough  not  covered 


608 


PASTRY. 


with  butter,  over  on  the  butter,  then  fold  the  other  part  with  the  but- 
ter on  it,  over  on  that,  forming  three  layers  of  dough  and  two  of  but- 
ter. Press  the  rolling  pin  over  the  edges  to  keep  them  together  and 
roll  out  to  its  original  size,  dust  with  flour,  fold  as  before,  roll  out 
again,  dust  with  hour,  and  fold  again ; repeat  twice  more,  giving  it 
four  rollings  and  foldings  ; when  rolled  out  for  the  last  tim.e,  cut  it 
through  in  two  even  pieces,  place  one  on  the  other,  and  the  paste  is 
ready  to  roll  in  any  shape  desired.  In  rolling,  the  first  move  with 
the  pin  will  be  to  push  it  down  on  the  dough  three  or  four  times, 
just  hard  enough  to  make  an  indentation  wdthout  breaking  the  dough, 
and  thus  allowing  the  butter  to  come  through.  Next  lay  the  pin 
levelly  on,  and  give  it  a roll  forward,  commencing  about  two-thirds 
down ; then,  without  removing  the  hand  from  pin,  bring  it  back 
right  down  to  the  bottom ; repeat  this,  then  reverse  the  piece,  and 
give  it  a roll  the  wide  way.  Continue  this  until  the  paste  is  rolled 
to  a sheet  twice  the  length  of  its  width  as  above,  keeping  it  nice  and 
square.  Be  very  careful  and  roll  level,  never  pressing  heavily  but 
exercising  equal  pressure  on  each  end  of  the  pin,  which  must  be  kept 
well  dusted  wdth  flour.  In  w^arm  weather  it  is  necessary  to  place  it 
in  a cool  place  after  every  second  rolling  ; in  very  warm  weather  af- 
ter each  rolling,  and  sometimes  on  ice.  The  number  of  rollings  and 
foldings  must  depend  somewhat  upon  the  quality  of  the  butter,  but 
more  upon  the  evenness  of  the  rolling.  To  ascertain  when  it  has 
been  rolled  enough,  cut  a piece  out  of  the  center,  and  if  the  layers 
of  dough  and  butter  can  be  easily  distinguished  it  needs  to  be  folded 
and  rolled  again ; if  the  layers  are  almost  imperceptible,  do  not  fold 
again,  though  it  is  better  to  give  one  fold  too  many  than  one  too  few^ 
If  making  a quantity  of  paste,  say  three  or  four  pounds,  after  the 
last  rolling  cover  it  wdth  a cloth  and  cut  from  it  as  wanted.  Some 
cooks  prefer  not  to  give  the  last  fold  to  the  whole  piece,  but  roll  out 
and  fold  as  required,  giving  that  designed  for  tarts  or  upper  crusts 
two  or  three  extra  foldings  and  rollings  to  make  it  more  flakey.  The 
French  roll  only  half  a pound  at  a time,  and  a small  quantity  is 
much  more  easily  handled.  For  a Rich  Puif  Paste^  take  a pound 
of  b'utter  to  each  pound  sifted  flour,  the  butter  should  have  first  been 
folded  in  a floured  napkin  and  gently  pressed  to  remove  all  moisture ; 
if  it  seems  milky  or  too  salt  the  butter  must  be  washed,  and  if  it  is 
properly  salted  no  salt  will  be  needed  in  the  paste.  When  necessary 
to  use  salt  allow  a teaspoon  for  each  pint  water.  Place  the  flour  on 
board,  make  a well  in  center,  squeeze  in  juice  of  half  a lemon,  and 
add  yolk  of  one  egg,  beaten  with  a little  ice  water ; stir  with  one 
hand  and  drop  in  ice  water  with  the  other  until  the  paste  is  as  hard 
as  the  butter ; roll  out  in  a smooth  square  an  inch  thick,  smooth 
sides  with  a rolling  pin,  roll  the  butter  out  and  spread  over  half  the 
paste,  and  lay  the  other  half  over  like  an  old-fashioned  turn-over ; 
leave  it  for  fifteen  minutes  in  a cold  place,  then  roll  out  in  a long 
atrip,  keeping  the  edges  smooth,  and  double  it  in  three  parts,  as  fol- 


PASTRY. 


609 


lows : Fold  one-third  over  on  the  middle  third,  roll  it  down,  then 
fold  over  the  other  outside  third,  roll  out  in  a long  strip  and  repeat 
the  folding  process — rolling  across  this  time  so  that  the  butter  may 
not  run  “in  streaks’’  by  being  always  rolled  the  same  way ; let  it  lie 
for  fifteen  minutes,  some  put  on  ice,  and  repeat  this  six  times,  allow- 
ing fifteen  minutes  between  each  rolling  to  cool,  (otherwise  the  but- 
ter will  “oil”),  and  the  paste  is  ready  for  use.  If  a very  flaky  pastry 
is  desired  brush  the  paste  over  each  time  it  ij  rolled  before  folding, 
with  beaten  white  of  egg.  What  is  known  as  French  Puif  Paste 
is  made  with  same  proportion  of  ingredients  as  above,  adding  another 
yolk  of  egg  when  mixing  the  first  dough ; then  roll  it  out  square 
about  half  an  inch  thick ; have  the  butter  as  cool  as  possible,  make 
it  into  a ball,  and  place  this  ball  on  -the  paste ; fold  the  paste  over 
the  butter  all  round,  and  secure  it  well.  Flatten  by  rolling  it  lightly 
with  the  rolling  pin  until  it  is  quite  thin,  but  not  thin  enough  to  al- 
low the  butter  to  break  through,  then  fold,  roll  and  finish  as  above. 

If  the  directions  given  in  above  recipe  are  carefully  followed, 
the  most  satisfactory  results  will  be  obtained,  but  there  are  other 
methods,  which  are  incorporated  under  the  following  general  Sug- 
gestions for  Puff  Paste.  The  secret  of  success  in  making  puff 
paste  is  to  secure  the  greatest  possible  number  of  even  layers  of 
butter  and  dough,  alternately,  as  the  result  of  folding  and  rolling. 
This  is  best  accomplished,  as  will  readily  be  perceived,  by  increas- 
ing the  quantity  of  butter ; the  more  one  uses,  the  greater  the  num- 
ber of  layers  before  the  butter  is  exhausted  by  absorption  into  the 
dough.  On  the  other  hand,  too  much  butter  produces  equally  bad  re- 
sults ; a quantity  of  butter  equal  to  the  flour  is  the  most,  and  three- 
fourths  pound  of  butter  to  a pound  flour  the  least,  that  can  be  used  in- 
puff paste  with  good  results.  In  making  puff  paste  it  is  a mistake  to 
suppose  that  lessening  the  quantity  of  butter  is  economical.  For  in- 
stance,Tart  Shells  cut  one-fourth  of  an  inch  thick  from  paste  made  with 
half  pound  butter  to  a pound  flour,  will  not  be  any  thicker  or  higher 
when  baked  than  those  cut  from  paste  half  as  thick  made  with  three- 
fourths  pound  butter  to  a pound  flour.  Thus,  by  using  one-fourth 
more  butter  double  the  bulk  results,  besides  the  satisfaction  of  hav- 
ing good  light  pastry.  In  washing  or  egging  pastry  be  careful  not 
to  allow  the  egg  or  milk,  or  whatever  is  used,  to  run  down  over  the 
edges,  as  when  it  is  placed  in  the  heat  of  the  oven,  it  will  bind  the 
edges  and  prevent  them  from  opening  fully.  In  rolling  use  the  roll- 
ing-pin as  lightly  as  possible,  and  take  care  that  the  pressure  is  even. 
The  layers  will  be  even  or  uneven  just  in  proportion  as  the  pressure 
is  even  or  uneven.  Be  careful  not  to  break  the  dough,  or  the  butter 
will  be  forced  through,  and  thus  destroy  the  evenness  of  the  layers. 
If  the  dough  breaks,  some  flour  it  lightly,  fold  in  three  layers,  cover 
with  a damp  cloth  and  let  stand  an  hour  or  two.  But  if  wanted  to 
use  immediately,  cover  the  broken  place  with  a piece  of  “plain 
dough,”  dust  it  well  with  flour,  and  continue  rolling ; it  is  well  to 


610 


PASTRY. 


keep  a piece  of  plain  dough  in  reserve  for  this  purpose.  Before 
adding  the  butter  some  divide  it  into  three  equal  parts,  spreading 
one-third  at  a time  over  half  the  paste,  turning  the  other  half  over 
it,  then  folding  over  from  the  other  way ; roll  and  spread  and  fold 
again,  and  yet  again,  when  all  of  the  butter  will  have  been  used. 
Some  “spread”  the  butter  by  rolling  as  in  above  recipes,  others  by 
putting  it  evenly  over  in  small  bits,  and  still  others  by  cutting  in 
slices  and  laying  them  closely  and  evenly  over,  always  leaving  a lit- 
tle outside  margin.  Each  time  before  the  paste  is  folded  it  should 
be  turned  half  round,  so  as  to  roll  in  a different  direction.  To  turn 
the  paste,  hold  one  end  to  the  rolling  pin,  then,  rolling  the  pin,  the 
dough  will  fold  loosely  around  it,  sprinkle  the  board  with  flour,  then 
unroll  the  dough  in  the  side  direction.  This  is  better  than  to  turn 
it  with  the  hands.  After  the  butter  is  all  worked  in,  roll  the  paste 
out  in  a long  smooth  strip,  fold  or  lap  over  into  three  parts  or  layers, 
roll  out,  and  repeat.  Before  using,  some  place  the  paste  on  ice  about 
fifteen  minutes  between  tv/o  plates,  reversing  them  once  that  it  may 
be  thoroughly  chilled  through,  then  use  as  expeditiously  as  possible. 
Others  also  set  it  on  ice  or  in  a cool  place  for  a few  minutes  after 
each  rolling.  To  toughen  the  dough,  before  adding  the  butter  form 
it  into  a ball,  flatten  it  on  the  floured  slab  and  beat  with  the  rolling 
pin  five  minutes,  turning  and  doubling  constantly.  There  will  then 
be  less  danger  of  its  breaking  when  the  butter  is  rolled  in.  Some 
add  the  well-beaten  white  of  an  egg  to  the  water  used  in  mixing  the 
dough,  which  helps  to  toughen  it.  Paste  made  the  day  before  it  is 
used  is  thought  by  some  to  be  much  better  and  easier  to  manage, 
and  in  winter  it  may  be  kept  four  or  five  days  in  a cold  place,  using 
from  it  as  required,  but  it  must  not  freeze.  When  ready  to  use,  finish 
the  paste  by  folding  in  three  layers  and  rolling  as  above ; some  fold 
and  roll  thus  seven  times  but  never  press  heavily  upon  it  with  the 
rolling  pin.  In  using  the  paste  remember  that  it  must  be  touched 
by  the  lightest  fingers,  every  cut  must  be  made  with  a sharp  knife, 
and  done  with  one  quick  stroke  so  that  the  paste  is  not  dragged  at 
all.  For  tarts  roll  less  than  a quarter  inch  thick  and  for  pies  a trifle 
thicker.  Do  press  the  paste  into  the  pan  as  this  will  destroy  its 
lightness  and  ruin  it.  A little  practice  will  enable  one  to  cut  off  a 
piece  of  paste  from  the  mass  which  when  rolled  will  be  very  nearly 
the  right  size.  Put  this  over  pan,  lifting  by  partly  rolling  on  the 
rolling  pin,  and  instead  of  pressing  round  the  bottom  to  make  it  fit 
smoothly,  gently  lift  the  edges  at  the  top  giving  a slight  pushing 
motion  towards  the  center  with  the  palms  of  the  hands  on  opposite 
sides ; it  will  easily  adjust  itself  to  the  dish.  Some  then  trim  off 
superfluous  portions,  leaving  a good  margin  over  the  edge,  though 
others  do  not  trim  until  the  top  crust  is  added,  cuttings  the  paste 
quickly  with  a sharp  knife  dipped  in  hot  water  or  flour,  while  hold- 
ing the  pan  on  the  left  hand.  To  have  the  middle  of  the  crust 
thinner  than  the  edge,  which  is  preferred  by  some,  double  over 


PASTRY. 


611 


the  paste  and  roll  the  part  that  will  be  the  middle  with  the  end  of 
rolling. pin,  having  flour  enough  about  the  paste  to  prevent  sticking, 
then  open  and  put  in  pan  as  directed.  Always  before  putting  on  upper 
crust  wet  rim  of  lower  with  finger  dipped  in  water,  or  with  a thick  paste 
of  flour  and  water,  or  egg  and  flour  and  press  the  two  crusts  firmly 
together  and  indent  evenly  all  round  with  the  thumb,  or  use  the 
pastry  Avheel  shown  in  cut.  This  simple  little  instrument  trims  off 

the  surplus  paste  that  projects  over 
the  pan,  and  at  the  same  time  neatly 
ornaments  the  border.  Do  not  put  in 
oven  until  it  is  hot  enough  to  raise  the 
paste ; puff  paste  requires  a quick 
oven,  and  no  matter  how  carefully  prepared,  if  not  properly  baked 
it  will  be  utterly  ruined,  and  for  this  reason  it  is  best  to  test  oven 
by  first  baking  a little  piece  ot  the  paste. 

Medium  PuiF  Paste. — One  pound  flour,  half  pound  butter, 
quarter  pound  lard,  not  quite  half  pint  ice  water ; mix  the  flour 
and  water  to  a smooth  paste,  then  roll  out  three  times,  spreading  the 
first  time  with  butter,  the  second  with  lard,  and  the  third  with  but- 
ter again,  when  it  will  be  ready  for  use. 

Short  Paste. — Put  a pound  sifted  flour  in  a bowl  with  a half 
pound  good  butter.  Break  butter  up  very  fine  in  flour,  adding  a lit- 
tle salt  (according  to  saltness  of  butter),  a half  pint  cold  water  with 
half  teaspoon  cream  of  tartar  dissolved  in  it  (to  toughen  the  paste) ; 
then  mix  it  into  a dough  of  medium  stiffness,  adding  more  water  if 
required ; work  lightly  together  and  keep  it  covered  with  a damp 
cloth,  or  between  two  plates,  in  a cool  place  until  wanted  to  use. 
Short  paste  is  very  useful  from  the  fact  that  it  is  easy  to  make,  and 
can  be  kept  in  better  shape,  where  shape  of  the  article  is  an  object. 

Suet  Paste. — Roll  a half  pound  perfectly  sweet  suet,  with  a very 
little  membrane  running  through  it,  on  a board  for  several  minutes, 
removing  all  skin  and  fibers  that  appear  when  rolling ; the  suet  will 
be  a pure  and  sweet  shortening,  looking  like  butter ; or  it  may  be 
chopped  very  fine  and  the  fibers  removed  ; duringthe  process  of  chop- 
ping, dredge  lightly  with  flour,  which  prevents  the  pieces  from  stick- 
ing together.  Beef  suet  is  considered  the  best ; but  veal  suet,  or  the 
outside  fat  of  a loin  or  neck  of  mutton,  makes  good  pastes ; as  also 
the  skimmings  in  which  a joint  of  mutton  has  been  boiled  without 
vegetables.  Rub  the  suet  into  a pound  flour,  add  teaspoon  salt,  and 
mix  it  with  half  pint  ice  water ; roll  out  and  put  on  a little  butter  in 
flakes,  rolling  it  in  as  usual.  Some  add  a teaspoon  baking  powder 
when  mixing.  If  wanted  very  nice,  after  chopping,  pound  the  suet 
in  a mortar  with  two  tablespoons  butter  to  a smooth  paste.  To  use 
this,  mix  the  flour  and  water  into  smooth  paste,  roll  out  and  spread 
with  ismall  bits  of  the  suet,  fold,  roll  and  spread  again,  and  so  on 


Pastry  Wheel. 


612 


PASTRY. 


until  all  is  used,  giving  the  paste  a few  more  foldings  and  rollings 
than  if  made  with  butter.  Some  shred  the  suet  in  very  thin  slices 
and  place  where  it  will  soften,  but  not  melt  in  the  least,  while  pre- 
paring the  paste,  then  spread  and  roil  as  above.  A very  nice,  flaky 
paste  is  made  from  a preparation  called  French  Butter.  Remove 
the  skin  and  blood  spots  from  three-quarters  pound  beef  suet  and 
pound  it  soft  in  a mortar ; add  quarter  pound  butter,  and  half  tea- 
spoon salt,  pound  it  well  in,  then  add  yolks  of  two  eggs  and  mix  all 
smoothly  and  use  it  as  butter  in  Puff  Paste,  making  a Rich  Suet  Paste. 
This  latter,  rolled  half  an  inch  thick,  cut  into  cakes  with  a cutter, 
two  inches  in  diameter,  then  washed  with  eggs  and  a few  cuts  given 
across  the  top  with  a sharp  knife,  and  baked  a nice  rich  brown  in  a 
moderately  hot  oven,  makes  delicious  Bostori  Cakes  for  tea-table. 
It  is  not  as  rich  as  puff  paste. 

Sweet  Paste. — Mix  with  a knife  half  pound  butter,  cut  in  bits, 
with  pound  flour,  four  tablespoons  sugar  and  pinch  of  salt ; add 
enough  sweet  milk,  about  a gill,  to  form  a smooth  paste,  handling 
lightly.  Will  rise  very  light  and  should  be  baked  a delicate  brown. 
Adding  two  tablespoons  more  butter  makes  it  nearly  as  nice  as  puff 
paste.  Some  add  the  well-beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs,  stirring  them 
in  the  milk,  using  about  a gill  of  the  latter,  though  if  eggs  are  large 
not  quite  so  much  will  be  needed,  but  more  if  eggs  are  small.  For 
another  With  Boiled  Milk,  to  every  pound  flour  allow  four  table- 
spoons sugar,  three  of  butter  and  a half  pint  boiling  milk.  Crumble 
butter  into  flour  as  finely  as  possible,  add  sugar  and  work  to  a smooth 
paste  with  the  boiling  milk.  Roll  out  thin  and  use. 

Pastry  Frosting. — Beat  the  white  of  an  egg  to  a stiff  froth  and 
when  pastry  is  nearly  done  brush  over  with  this,  using  the  pastry 
brush  for  the  purpose  and  sprinkle  with  granulated  sugar  and  a few 
drops  water  returning  to  oven  a few  minutes  to  set  the  frosting,  tak- 
ing care  that  it  does  not  brown  or  scorch. 

Pastry  Glaze. — The  simplest  glaze  is  the  thoroughly  beaten 
yolk  of  an  egg,  but  most  cooks  prefer  to  add  to  the  yolk  twice  its 
bulk  in  water  and  teaspoon  sugar,  then  beat  up  well,  and  just  before 
pastry  is  done,  brush  it  over  evenly  with  this  and  return  to  oven  to 
set  the  glaze,  which  gives  it  a rich  yellow-brown  color. 

Dried'  Apple-pie. — Very  good  pies  may  be  made  of  the  evapo- 
rated apples,  by  stewing  in  a very  little  water ; sweeten  and  make 
like  any  other.  The  home  dried  apples  are  best  when  stewed  as  for 
sauce,  page  343,  and  mashed  through  colander.  When  stewing,  put 
in  two  or  three  small  pieces  of  lemon  or  orange  peel,  or  a few  raisins 
are  a nice  addition;  flavor  with  very  little  spice  of  any  kind. 
Sweeten  and  season  before  putting  in  pie-pan;  a beaten  egg  may  be 
stirred  in.  Bake  with  two  crusts,  rolled  thin,  and  warm  slightly  be- 
fore eating.  Or  With  Cranberries,  wash  two  quarts  dried  apple* 


PA^THY. 


61S 


and  place  in  a four-quart  jar  or  bean  pot ; wash  half  plntVranberries 
and  put  in  with  the  apples,  fill  up  with  cold  water  and  bake  half  an 
hour ; fill  up  again  with  cold  water  and  bake  till  apples  are  tender  ; 
rub  all  through  colander,  sweeten  to  taste  with  brown  sugar,  add  cup 
seeded  raisins,  teaspoon  ground  cinnamon  and  bake  between  two 
crusts.  When  making  dried-apple-pies  if  any  bits  of  cold  meat  are 
at  hand,  chop  them  as  for  mince-meat  adding  about  twice  as  much 
of  the  prepared  apples  as  meat,  a little  vinegar  or  boiled  cider,  sea- 
soning and  spices  to  taste  and  a few  raisins.  These  Cottage  Pies 
are  very  quickly  made  and  much  resemble  Mince-pies.  For  lurn- 
overSj  make  a good  biscuit  dough,  roll  iniri  about  size  of  pie-pan, 
put  on  it  a tablespoon  nice  dried  apple  sauce,  or  any  other  kind, 
turn  the  crust  over,  cut  with  the  edge  of  saucer  to  shape  it  nicely, 
and  fry  in  hot  fat  or  drippings,  like  doughnuts,  Or  make  of  Quaker 
Paste,  about  the  size  of  saucer,  fill  as  liked,  fold  and  bake  in  oven. 

Grated- Apple-pie. — Grate  two  tart  apples  and  add  cup  sugar, 
two  eggs,  teaspoon  cinnamon  ; beat  w'ell  and  stir  in  cup  sweet  milk ; 
bake  quickly  in  one  crust.  The  whites  of  eggs  may  be  reserved  for 
meringue.  Or  to  enough  grated  apple  for  a pie  add  juice  of  half  a 
lemon,  yolks  of  two  eggs,  well  beaten,  half  cup  sugar,  good-sized 
piece  of  butter,  melted,  and  teaspoon  rose-water.  Bake  and  cover 
with  a meringue.  The  apples  may  be  chopped  if  preferred.  Sweet- 
Apple-pie  is  made  same,  using  naif  as  much  sugar;  or  the  eggs, 
lemon  juice  and  rose-water  may  be  omitted  and  nutmeg  grated  over 
the  top.  Some  always  add  a little  milk. 

Halved- Apple-pie. — Pare  and  cut  in  halves  large  tart  apples, 
bellflowers  are  best,  remove  cores  and  place  in  rich  crust,  cut  side  up. 
Allow  cup  sugar  and  tablespoon  butter  to  each  pie,  strewing  sugar 
over,  and  also  the  butter  cut  in  bits.  Bake  in  one  crust  until  apples 
are  done  and  serve  with  cream.  Rich  and  delicious. 

Lemon  Apple-pie.— Ouq  cup  chopped  apples,  grated  rind  and 
chopped  pulp  of  one  lemon,  cup  sugar  and  a well-beaten  egg.  Bake 
in  two  crusts,  or  one  and  cover  with  a meringue. 

Sliced- Apple-pie. — Line  pie-pan  with  crust,  sprinkle  with  su- 
gar, fill  with  tart  apples  sliced  very  thin,  sprinkle  sugar  and  very 
little  cinnamon  over,  add  few  small  bits  of  butter,  with  tablespoon 
water ; dredge  in  a little  flour,  cover  with  the  top  crust,  and  bake 
half  to  three-quarters  of  an  hour ; allow  four  or  five  tablespoons 
sugar  to  one  pie.  Add  juice  of  a lemon  if  liked.  Or,  line  pans  with 
crust,  fill  with  sliced  apples,  put  on  tojp  crust  and  bake ; take  off  top 
crust,  put  in  sugar,  bits  of  butter  and  seasoning,  replace  crust  and 
serve  warm.  Delicious  with  sweetened  cream.  Or,  With  Whipped 
Cream,  while  the  pie  is  baking  whip  a pint  cream,  and  when  don© 
remove  top  crust, ^sweeten  and  flavor  as  above,  put  the  whipped 
cream  on  top,  replace  crust  and  serve.  h zrzr  ne  served  without 


614 


PASTRY. 


upper  crust.  If  to  be  served  cold  let  the  pie  cool  before  putting  in 
'vhipped  cream.  Or  With  Almonds^  for  ten  or  twelve  apples,  sliced 
as  above ; mix  well  enough  sugar  to  sweeten,  grated  rind  of  one 
lemon,  one  gill  cream  or  rich  milk ; then  add  three  beaten  eggs,  two 
or  three  tablespoons  butter  and  the  sliced  apples.  Line  a pie-pan 
with  a nice  paste,  fill  with  the  mixture  and  strew  over  it  blanched 
almonds,  cut  in  long  shreds,  bake  half  an  hour,  being  careful  al- 
monds do  not  burn ; when  done,  sprinkle  sifted  sugar  over  the  top 
and  serve  either  hot  or  cold.  Makes  two  large  pies.  Crab-apple- 
fie^  if  made  of  Transcendents,  will  fully  equal  those  made  of  the 
larger  varieties  of  apples. 

Apple-  Custard-pie.— ‘VqqI  sour  apples,  stew  until  soft,  and  rub 
through  colander.  Add  nine  eggs,  cup  each  butter  and  sugar  for 
three  pies.  Season  with  nutmeg  and  bake  in  under  crust.  Or  With 
Milk^  beat  yolks  of  six  eggs  with  cup  sugar ; add  three  cups  cold 
stewed  and  pulped  apples  with  a quart  milk,  or  pint  each  cream  and 
milk,  season  with  grated  orange  peel,  or  as  liked,  beat  in  whipped 
whites  of  eggs  last  and  bake  in  one  crust.  Makes  two  or  three  pies. 
Or  in  either  recipe  reserve  some  of  the  whites  of  eggs  for  meringue. 
Baked  in  pudding  dish,  this  makes  a delicious  Apple- Custard  Pud- 
ding., and  the  dish  may  be  lined  with  pastry,  bread-crumbs,  or  slices 
of  bread  dipped  in  sweet  milk  or  a custard ; or  put  the  crumbs  and 
apple  mixture  in  dish  in  alternate  layers.  For  an  Apple-butter 
pie.,  beat  well  together  four  eggs,  cup  each  apple-butter  and  sugar, 
and  level  tablespoon  allspice ; add  quart  sweet  milk  and  pinch  of 
salt  and  bake  in  one  crust ; makes  three  pies. 

Apple  Meringue  Pare,  slice,  stew  and  sweeten  ripe,  tart 

and  iuicy  apples,  mash  and  season  with  nutmeg,  cinnamon  or  rose- 
water, or  stew  lemon  peel  with  them  for  flavor,  or  squeeze  orange 
juice  over  the  top  ; fill  crust  and  bake  till  done ; a teaspoon  butter 
in  each  pie  is  an  improvement,  and  some  add  a little  boiled  cider : 
spread  over  the  apple  a thick  meringue  made  of  well- whipped  whites 
of  three  eggs  for  each  pie,  sweetened  with  three  tablespoons  powdered 
sugar ; flavor  with  vanilla,  beat  until  it  will  stand  alone,  and  cover 
pie  three-quarters  of  an  inch  thick ; place  in  oven  a few  moments 
and  eat  cold.  Peach  and  Pieplant  Meringue  Pie  made  same  way 

Banana-pie. raw  bananas,  add  butter,  sugar,  allspice 
and  vinegar,  or  boiled  cider,  or  diluted  jelly ; bake  with  two  crusts. 
Cold  boiled  sweet  potatoes  may  be  used  instead  of  bananas,  and  are 
very  nice.  For  Banana  and  Apple-pie^  slice  three  or  four  bananas 
and  enough  apples  to  fill  the  pie,  sprinkle  sugar  over  and  cover, 
spreading  a little  butter  over  top  crust  and  sifting  sugar  over.  Bake 
about  twenty  minutes.  Or  peel  three  or  four  bananas,  slice  each  in 
two  or  three  pieces  lengthwise  and  place  in  the  pie  two  layers  deep, 
cover  moderately  with  sugar,  drop  a blade  of  mace  broken  in  pieces 


PASTRY. 


615 


and  bits  of  fresh  butter  over  the  slices,  pour  in  four  tablespoons 
lemon  juice,  and  bake  in  one  crust  in  moderate  oven  twenty  minutes. 

Boiled-  Cider-pie, — Beat  together  one  egg,  cup  sugar  and  two 
tablespoons  corn-starch  and  add  half  cup  boiled  cider,  two-thirds 
cup  cold  water,  teaspoon  extract  lemon ; bake  with  two  crusts,  or 
like  a custard-pie,  as  preferred.  The  egg  may  be  omitted,  and  the 
mixture  may  be  cooked  before  putting  in  pie. 

Buttermilk-pie.— well-beaten  eggs,  two  cups  buttermilk, 
two  tablespoons  each  flour  and  butter  and  cup  sugar ; mix  well,  fla- 
vor with  lemon  and  bake  in  one  crust ; makes  two  pies.  Meringue 
tops  if  liked,  and  any  open  pie  can  be  meringued  when  wished  nicer, 

Carrot-Pie. — Thoroughly  clean  and  scrape  some  carrots,  boil 
till  tender  and  mash  through  a sieve.  To  a pint  strained  pulp  and 
six  well-beaten  eggs  add  three  pints  boiling  milk,  two  tablespoons 
melted  butter,  juice  of  half  and  grated  rind  of  whole  lemon,  and 
sugar  to  taste.  Bake  in  deep  pie-pan  in  one  crust.  Or  make  as 
Pumpkin-pie,  which  it  resembles. 

Cherry -pie. — Line  pie-pan  with  rich  crust;  nearly  fill  with 
carefully  stoned  fruit,  sweeten  to  taste,  and  sprinkle  evenly  with  tea- 
spoon corn-starch  or  tablespoon  flour,  add  tablespoon  butter  cut  in 
small  bits  and  scattered  over  top ; wet  edge  of  crust,  put  on  upper 
crust,  and  press  edges  closely  together,  taking  c4re  to  provide  holes 
in  center  for  the  escape  of  air.  Blackberry Raspberry  and  Cran- 
berry-pies are  all  made  same  way,  regulating  quantity  of  sugar  by 
tartness  of  fruit.  May  be  baked  in  one  crust,  with  Diamond  Top. 

Chess-pie.- — Beat  half  cup  butter  to  a cream,  then  add  yolks  ol 
three  eggs,  and  two-thirds  cup  sugar  beaten  to  a froth  with  any  fla- 
voring liked ; stir  all  together  rapidly,  and  bake  in  nice  crust.  When 
done,  cover  with  a meringue  of  the  whites.  This  makes  one  pie, 
which  serve  immediately.  Add  half  cup  milk  if  not  liked  so  rich. 

Corn-starch  Pies. — One  quart  milk,  yolks  of  two  eggs,  two 
tablespoons  corn-starch ; mix  starch  in  a little  milk,  boil  rest  of 
milk  to  a thick  cream,  beat  yolks,  add  starch  and  put  in  the  boiled 
milk  with  one  cup  sugar ; bake  with  an  under  crust,  covering  with 
a meringue  of  the  two  whites. 

Berry-pie. — Allow  two  heaping  tablespoons  sugar  and  tea* 
spoon  corn-starch,  or  tablespoon  flour  for  each  pie,  mix  thoroughly 
together,  and  after  lining  pie-pan  with  a good  paste,  sprinkle  one 
tablespoon  of  the  mixture  evenly  over  bottom,  put  berries  in  smooth- 
ly, sprinkle  over  remainder  of  sugar  mixture,  and  if  wanted  very 
rich,  bits  of  butter  also,  cover  with  upper  crust  and  bake  in  moderate 
oven.  A little  more  sugar  or  flour  is  needed  for  some  kinds  of  her- 


616 


PASTRY. 


ries  than  others,  according  to  their  tartness  or  juiciness.  Cranber- 
ries will  require  double  the  above  quantities,  and  are  nice  baked 

with  a Diamond  Top  made  as  follows  : 
roll  a piece  of  nice  paste  very  thin,  cut 
into  strips  a sixth  of  an  inch  wide  and 
place  in  cross-bars  three-quarters  of  an 
inch  apart  over  each  pie,  making  dia- 
Diainond~Top.  mond-shaped  spaces;  pinch  down  the 

ends,  trim  off  dough,  cutting  close  to  rim  of  pan,  and  place  around 
the  edge,  the  strip  of  paste  cut  with  the  jagger,  as  illustrated  in  the 
preface ; and  a handsomer  cover  is  made  by  also  cutting  the  strips  for 
the  top  with  the  j agger.  The  diamond  top  is  very  nice  for  any  berry  or 
fruit-pie.  Berry-pies  are  best  served  cold,  unless  directed  otherwise  in 
recipes.  For  Canned- Berry-pies^  if  the  berries' are  put  up  with  sugar, 
they  will  not  need  any  more  sweetening,  and  little  if  any  flour  or  corn- 
starch, though  this  will  depend  upon  quantity  of  juice  used.  If 
canned  without  sugar,  follow  first  rule.  Dried- Berry-pies  can  be 
made  to  rival  fresh  fruit  in  flavor  by  putting  the  berries  in  without 
stewing.  Sprinkle  bottom  crust  with  sugar  mixture  as  above,  then 
put  in  smoothly  as  many  berries  as  will  be  required  to  make  a full 
pie  when  done,  remembering  that  they  swell  fully  a third  in  cooking, 
sprinkle  over  rest  of  mixture  and  add  water  in  same  proportion  as 
if  stewing  the  fruit,  cover  with  crust  and  bake.  Or  first  stew  the 
fruit  and  proceed  as  above.  Two  dried  fruits  combined,  as  raspber- 
ries and  blackberries ; or  raspberries  and  apples ; or  with  larger 
fruits,  peaches  and  apples  make  a palatable  pie. 

A wise  authority  on  cookery  has  said  “Never  spice  either  fresh 
or  dried  fruits,*  lest  you  destroy  their  flavor ; if  it  is  desirable  to 
heighten  the  flavor  of  any  fruit  in  pies,  sauces  etc.,  add  juice  from 
another  fruit.  For  instance,  flavor  apples  with  pine-apple  or  quince ; 
strawberries  with  orange  or  pine-apple ; or  raspberries  with  currants. 


Cocoa-nut-pie. — Pint  milk,  a cocoa-nut,  cup  sugar,  three  eggs ; 
grate  cocoa-nut,  mix  with  yolks  of  eggs  and  sugar,  stir  in  milk,  fill- 
ing the  pan  even  full,  and  bake  in  one  crust.  Make  a meringue  of 
whites  of  eggs  and  sugar.  If  prepared  cocoa-nut  is  used,  one  heap- 
ing tea-cup  is  required,  soaked  overnight.  A tablespoon  butter  may 
be  added.  Or  reserve  the  milk  of  the  cocoa-nut  and  mix  it  with 
cup  cream  instead  of  using  milk  as  above.  A slight  flavoring  of 
orange  or  lemon  extract  may  be  added,  if  liked. 


Cottage- Cheese-pie. — Mix  tablespoon  flour  with  butter  size  of 
walnut,  add  two  large  cups  cottage  cheese  and  six  tablespoons  sugar ; 
mix  thoroughly  and  stir  in  four  beaten  eggs.  Flavor  with  cinnamon, 
and  bake  in  an  under  crust. 


Cream-pie. — Beat  thoroughly  together  white  of  one  egg,  half 
cup  sugar,  and  tablespoon  flour ; add  cup  cream,  bake  with  a hot- 


PASTRY. 


617 


tom  crust,  and  grate  nutmeg  on  top.  Or  for  two  pies  use  whites  of 
three  eggs,  omitting  the  flour,  and  some  use  three-fourths  cup  sugar 
for  each  pie.  For  a Creamless  Pie,  use  yolks  of  two  eggs,  two- 
thirds  cup  sugar,  half  cup  flour  and  one  pint  milk ; mix  eggs,  flour 
and  sugar  thoroughly  and  stir  into  milk  when  it  boils  ; flavor  with 
lemon  or  vanilla.  Bake  a crust,  pour  mixture  in,  and  place  in  oven 
fifteen  minutes ; make  a meringue  of  the  whites  of  eggs.  A cup 
raisins  may  be  added  to  either  of  above,  if  flavor  is  liked. 

Whipped- Cream-pie. — Sweeten  with  white  sugar  a cup  very 
thick  sweet  cream,  made  as  cold  as  possible  without  freezing,  and 
flavor  with  lemon  or  vanilla  to  taste ; whip  to  a froth  and  place  on 
ice ; make  a moderately  rich  crust,  prick  well  with  a fork  to  prevent 
blistering,  bake,  and  when  cold,  spread  on  cream,  and  serve  with  bits 
of  jelly  over  top.  Will  make  two  pies.  Or  With  Fruit,  cover  a 
buttered  pie-plate  with  Puff  or  Short  Paste  rolled  very  thin,  and  cut 
ofi*  about  an  inch  from  the  edge  all  around  the  plate.  Spread  over 
very  evenly  a thin  layer  of  cooked  paste  made  as  for  Boston  Cream 
Puffs,  page  86.  Put  a tube,  measuring  about  half  an  inch  in  diame- 
ter, in  meringue  bag,  turn  remainder  of  cooked 
paste  into  the  bag  and  press  it  through  the  tube 
oh  to  edges  of  plate,  where  the  puff  paste  has 
been  cut  off,  making  the  border  of  equal  thick- 
ness all  round.  Prick  holes  in  the  paste  in  cen- 
ter of  plate,  and  bake  half  an  hour  in  moder- 
ate oven.  Make  the  paste  left  in  bag  into  balls 
about  half  the  size  of  walnuts.  Drop  them  in 
and  bake  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes.  While 
baking,  put  half'  cup  each  water  and  sugar  in  small  saucepan,  and 
boil  twenty-five  minutes.  When  the  balls  and  plate  of  paste  are 
done,  take  the  balls  on  point  of  skewer  or  large  needle,  dip  each  in 
the  syrup  and  place  them  on  border  of  paste  about  two  inches  apart. 
Do  not  stir  syrup  or  it  will  grain.  A part  of  the  syrup  may  be 
poured  into  a small  cup,  which  place  in  hot  water  and  use,. while 
that  remaining  in  saucepan  is  kept  hot  until  needed,  but  it  must  not 
boil.  When  all  the  balls  have  been  used,  di]>  a dozen  and  a half 
French  candied  cherries  in  the  syrup  and  stick  them  between  the 
balls,  reserving  about  half  dozen  cherries  with  which  to  garnish  cen- 
ter of  cake.  For  the  filling,  whip  half  pint  cream  to  a froth;  soak 
half  ounce  gelatine  two  hours  in  scant  third  (m})  milk,  then  pour  on 
this,  third  cup  boiling  milk.  Place  pan  of  whipped  cream  in  another 
of  ice  water,  and  sprinkle  over  it  quarter  cup  sugar  and  half  teaspoon 
vanilla.  Strain  gelatine  on  this,  and  stir  gently  from  the  bottom 
until  it  begins  to  thicken.  When  it  will  just  pour,  fill  plate  with  it, 
and  set  in  ice  chest  for  half  an  hour.  Garnish  top  with  the  remain- 
ing cherries,  and  serve.  A delicious  pie  and  a very  ornamental  dish. 

Grumb-pie. — Soak  cup  bread-crumbs  half  an  hour  in  a little 
warm  water ; add  three  tablespoons  sugar,  half  tablespoon  butter, 


Meringne  Bag. 

lightly  buttered 


618 


PASTEY. 


half  cup  cold  water,  a little  vinegar,  and  nutmeg  to  taste ; bake  in 
two  crusts.  Or  to  nearly  a pint  hot  water,  add  cup  sugar,  teaspoon 
tartaric  acid,  half  cup  bread-crumbs,  a grated  nutmeg  and  very  small 
lump  of  butter.  Will  make  two  pies  ; before  putting  on  the  upper 
crust  sprinkle  with  a little  flour.  Or  soak  four  soda  biscuits  an  hour 
in  cold  water ; mix  with  them  two  cups  brown  sugar  and  grated  rind 
and  juice  of  one  lemon.  Beat  all  together  thoroughly  and  bake  in 
one  crust.  For  a Craoher-pie^  soak  cup  and  a half  soda  crackers 
until  soft  in-  cup  of  cold  water ; add  cup  sugar,  and  grated  rind  and 
juice  of  one  lemon.  Bake  in  two  crusts.  Crackers  maybe  rolled  in- 
stead of  soaked,  and  an  egg  or  two  added.  Or  for  Mock-Mince-pieJ 
take  twelve  crackers  rolled  fine,  half  cup  vinegar,  one  cup  each  hot 
water,  molasses,  sugar,  currants  and  raisins  ; spice,  to  taste.  Some 
use  one  cup  dried  bread-crumbs,  and  also  add  a small  cup  butter. 
Makes  four  pies,  and  is  very  nice,, 

Green- Currant-pie. — Line  an  inch  pie-pan  with  good  crust, 
sprinkle  over  bottom  two  heaping  tablespoons  sugar  and  two  of  flour, 
(or  one  of  corn-starch)  mixed ; ^hen  pour  in  one  pint  green  currants, 
washed  clean,  and  two  tablespo3ns  currant  jelly ; sprinkle  with  four 
heaping  tablespoons  sugar,  ai?  i add.  two  of  cold  water;  cover  and 
bake  fifteen  or  twent}^  minutes,  Or  fill  the  crust  half  full  of  currants, 
and  add  half  cup  sugar,  tablespoon  butter,  and  a little  ground  cin- 
namon if  liked ; fill  up  the  plate  with  currants,  add  nearly  half  cup 
more  sugar,  and  cover  with  a crust ; bake  half  an  hour  in  moderate 
oven.  If  too  sweet,  use  less  sugar.  Ripe- Currant-pie  made  in 
same  way,  using  less  sugar ; and  to  take  equal  quantities  currants  and 
either  black  or  red  raspberries,  make  a delicious  pie ; or  take  one  cup 
each  mashed  currants,  and  sugar,  two  tablespoons  water,  one  of  flour 
beaten  with  yolks  of  two  eggs ; bake  in  one  crust,  and  cover  with  a 
meringue.  Or  use  one  whole  egg  in  pie  and  omit  meringue.  Some  sim- 
ply stem,  stew  and  mash  the  currants  through  a sieve,  sweeten  to  taste 
while  hot,and  when  cool  bake  in  one  crust.  Make  Cranberry-pie  same, 
preparing  berries  as  for  Cranberry  Sauce  on  page  170.  For  Dried- 
Currant-pie^  take  the  large  English  currants,  cleanse  carefully,  and 
stew,  in  plenty  of  water.  Sweeten,  and  thicken  with  flour  till  of 
consistency  of  rich  croam.  Bake  in  two  crusts.  Very  good. 

Custard-pie. — Heat  a quart  good  rich  milk  in  a tin  pan  set  in 
skillet  of  hot  water ; beat  four  or  five  eggs  with  four  large  table- 
spoons sugar,  and  a little  salt,  and  pour  in  the  milk ; flavor  to  taste 
and  have  oven  hot,  when  put  in  to  bake.  Cook  slowly  so  as  not  to 
boil,  as  that  spoils  it ; test  with  a knife  and  when  done  it  will  not 
stick  to  blade.  Makes  one  very  deep  pie,  or  two  of  ordinary  depth. 
Without  the  crust,  this  makes  a delicious  Baked  Custard.  Some 
when  they  both  cook  the  custard,  and  bake  the  crust  first,  fill  and 
cover  at  once  with  a meringue  and  only  bake  long  enough  to  deli- 
cately brown  the  top.  Pics  may  be  made  without  first  cooking  the 


PASTRY. 


619 


CTistard,  and  the  crust  may  be  pricked  and  baked,  but  not  too  hard, 
before  filling.  This  prevents  it  from  becoming  soggy.  Reserve  white 
of  one  egg  for  frosting,  if  liked.  Lesg  eggs  may  be  used  by  substi- 
tuting tablespoon  corn-starch  for  each  egg  omitted,  but  when  this  is 
used  the  custard  must  always  be  first  cooked.  For  a Raspherry- 
Ciistard-pie  stir  in  a handful  fresh  raspberries,  or  enough  for  one 
layer,  just  before  baking ; they  will  float  on  top  and  form  a pleasing 
change.  Any  berries  may  be  used.  For  a Jelly-  Custard-pie^  b6at 
yolks  of  four  eggs  with  cup  sugar  and  two  tablespoons  butter ; add 
cup  of  any  jelly  preferred  and  lastly  the  beaten  whites  of  eggs  and 
bake  in  one  crust ; making  a meringue  of  whites  of  eggs  and  spreading 
over  top,  if  liked.  Some  good  housekeepers  report  that  by  stirring  in- 
to the  custard  a half  cup  Graham  flour  a crust  is  not  needed  as  the 
flour  settles  in  bottom  of  pan,  forming  a very  good  crust.  This  may 
be  worth  an  experiment.  For  a Chocolate- Cu^stard-pie^  take  one- 
fourth  cake  Bakers’s  chocolate,  grated  ; pint  boiling  water,  six  eggs, 
quart  milk,  half  cup  white  sugar,  two  teaspoons  vanilla ; dissolve 
chocolate  in  very  little  milk,  stir  into  the  boiling  water,  and  boil 
three  minutes ; when  nearly  cold,  beat  in  yolks  of  all  the  eggs  and 
whites  of  three ; stir  this  mixture  into  milk,  season,  and  pour  into 
good  paste  ; when  about  half  done,  spread  over  the  remaining  whites 
whipped  to  a froth  with  three  tablespoons  sugar.  Some  use  three 
pints  milk,  omitting  the  pint  water.  Makes  three  ordinary  pies  or 
two  deep  ones.  It  is  better  for  Custard,  Cream  and  Pumpkin-pies  to 
use  deep  pie-pans. 

Elder-l)eTry-pie. — Make  same  as  directed  in  Berry  Pie,  sweeten- 
ing to  taste,  adding  a little  flour  and  butter,  and  always  flavor  with 
nutmeg.  Or  use,  either  fresh,  dried  or  canned,  with  other  fruit,  such 
as  currants,  cherries  and  grapes ; or  a little  vinegar,  or  boiled  cider, 
instead  of  above  fruits. 

Fruit-pies. — Fruit-pies  in  deep  dishes  are  preferable  to  an  ordi- 
nary fruit  pie,  because  more  juice  and  fruit  is  obtained.  The  best 
method  of  making  these  is  as  follows : Take  a deep,  oval  pie-dish 
(earthen,  not  tin),  line  the  edge  wdth  paste  and  about  half  its  depth 
inside ; invert  a small  cup  in  center,  an  egg  cup  is  best,  one  that  will 
stand  a little  above  the  edge  of  dish ; fill  dish  with  frufl,  adding  a 
little  water  if  fruit  has  not  much  juice,  and  sugar  to  taste ; cover 
with  a crust  of  Puff  Paste,  brush  it  with  water,  or  white  of  an  egg, 
and  dust  with  powdered  sugar ; then  make  a few  fancy  cuts.  The 
cup  in  the  center  collects  the  juice,  and  if  the  whole  of  pie  is  not 
eaten  at  one  meal,  what  is  left  can  be  supplied  with  juice  by  simply 
lifting  up  the  cup  and  allowing  the  juice  to  escape.  The  edge  of  this 
pie,  to  be  artistic,  should  be  pinched  with  the  finger  and  thumb,  then 
notched  with  a knife.  If  fruit  is  used  which  gives  too  much  juice, 
prevent  boiling  over  by  mixing  a little  flour  with  the  sugar,  about 
one  teaspoon  flour  to  twelve  of  sugar ; or  make  the  sugar  mixture 


620 


PASTRY. 


as  directed  in  Berry-pies  and  use  in  same  way.  For  a very  nice 
Deep  Apple  pie^  fill  a deep  pie-dish,  prepared  as  first  directed,  with 
sliced  apples,  adding  if  liked,  a quince  cut  in  slices  and  stewed  till 
tender  in  a little  water  and  sugar.  Or  quarter  the  apples,  put  in 
preserving  kettle  with  four  tablespoons  powdered  sugar  to  a pie,  and 
add  water  enough  to  make  a thin  syrup ; add  a few  blades  of  mace, 
ixud  boil  the  apple  in  the  syrup  a few  pieces  at  a time,  to  avoid  break- 
ing ; take  carefully  from  the  kettle  and  lay  them  in  dishes.  When 
enough  apples  for  the  number  of  pies  to  be  made  are  ready,  add  to 
syrup  cinnamon  and  rose-water,  or  any  spice  wished.  Arrange  the 
apples  in  pie-plate  with  the  rim  lined  with  paste  as  above,  pour  an 
equal  part  of  the  syrup  into  each  pie  and  cover  with  top  crust ; bake 
a light  brown  in  moderate  oven.  In  making  Shallow  Fruit-pies 
the  cup  is  omitted,  and  some  pile  fruit  high  in  center  of  under  crust, 
leaving  space  round  the  sides  almost  bare  of  fruit,  and  when  the  .upper 
crust  is  put  on,  press  it  gently  down  all  around  into  the  groove  thus 
fonned,  make  two  or  three  holes  in  it  for  the  juice  to  escape,  which 
when  baking  will  boil  out  of  the  holes  and  run  all  round  the  groove 
with  a pretty  effect.  The  groove  must  be  made  deep  enough  to  hold 
all  juice  that  boils  out  or  it  will  run  over  the  pie  in  streaks.  The 
fruit  m.ust  also  be  piled  high  enough  in  the  center  to  prevent  this. 
Whipped  cream  is  delicious  with  fruit-pies.  For  Fruit  Turn-overs^ 
roll  Puff  Paste  to  the  thickness  of  about  one-fourth  of  an  inch,  and 
ciit  it  out  in  pieces  of  a circular  form ; pile  the  fruit  on  half  the 
paste,  sprinkle  over  some  sugar,  wet  the  edges  and  turn  the  paste 
over.  Press  edges  together,  ornament  them,  and  brush  the  turn-overs 
over  with  the  white  of  an  egg ; sprinkle  over  sifted  sugar,  and  bake 
on  tins,  in  a brisk  oven,  for  about  twenty  minutes.  Instead  of  put- 
ting the  fruit  in  raw,  it  may  be  boiled  down  wdth  a little  sugar  first, 
and  then  enclosed  in  the  (irust ; or  jam  of  any  kind  may  be  substi- 
tuted for  fresh  fruit.  Suitable  for  picnics. 

Oooseherry-pie.—liei^Q  either  green,  or  not  too  ripe  gooseberries. 
Put  in  saucepan  with  enough  water  to  prevent  burning,  and  stew 
slowly  until  they  break,  stirring  often.  Sweeten  well  and  set  away 
to  cool.  When  cold,  pour  in  pie-pan  lined  with  paste,  cover  with  a 
crust  or  Diamond  Top,  and  bake  in  oven.  Eat  cold  but  fresh,  with 
powdered  sugar  sifted  over  top.  Or  use  the  ripe  berries  without  first 
cooking,'  as  in  Berry-pie.  Some  also  add  a pinch  of  salt. 

Grape-pie— "intern,  the  grapes,  place  in  kettle  over  fire,  with 
plenty  of  water  to  prevent  burning  ; let  boil,  remove,  and  when  cool 
enough  put  in  jelty  bag  and  squeeze  ; return  juice  to  kettle,  sweeten 
to  taste,  add  pinch  of  salt,  and  when  it  boils  thicken  with  corn- 
starch to  the  consistency  of  custard  ; have  ready  a baked  crust,  pour 
in  the  mixture,  cover  with  a meringue,  brown  in  the  oven  and  serve 
cold.  If  meringue  is  not  used  the  pie  does  not  need  to  be  placed  in 
oven.  Or  grapes  may  be  used  without  cooking,  as  in  Cherry-pie. 


PASTRY. 


621 


Hichory-mit-pie. — Mash  a pound  hickory-nut  kernels  fine,  add 
thrr-^-fonrths  cup  sweet  milk  with  tablespoon  flour,  mixed  smooth 
in  hritle  of  the  milk,  and  three  tablespoons  sugar.  Stir  well  together 
and  oake  in  one  crust,  covering  with  meringue. 

Lemon-pie. — G-rated  rind  and  juice  of  one  lemon,  cup  sugar, 
yolks  of  three  eggs,  tablespoon  butter,  thre^  tablespoons  milk,  two 
teasnoons  corn-starch ; beat  all  together  and  bake  in  rich  crust ; 
spread  a meringue  of  the  whites  over  pie  when  done,  and  brown  in 
oven.  If  meringue  is  not  wished,  use  a whole  egg  instead  of  three 
yolks  in  pie.  Or,  scald  a cup  milk,  or  water,  stir  in  the  corn-starch, 
mixed  smooth  in  the  three  tablespoons  milk,  and  when  cooked,  cool 
and  add  remaining  ingredients.  A tablespoon  flour  may  be  used 
instead  of  the  corn-starch.  Some  use  finely  rolled  crumbs  from  an 
ordinary  slice  of  bread  for  thickening,  when  only  two  eggs  or  two 
yolks  and  a cup  water  or  milk  should  be  used  in  above  recipe.  Or, 
beat  yolks  of  four  eggs  until  very  smooth,  add  grated  peel  of  one 
lemon,  and  one  and  a half  cups  sugar,  beat  well,  stir  in  two  table- 
spoons flour,  and  add  the  lemon  juice  (if  lemons  are  small  two  may 
be  necessary)-,  and  lastly  two-thirds  cup  water;  stir  well,  and  pour 
in  pie-pans  lined  with  paste.  When  baked,  take  from  oven,  and 
spreaa  over  them  a meringue  and  brown.  Or  for  Boiled. Lemon-pie 
make  a syrup  of  a cup  ea<^  boiling  water  and  sugar,  add  grated  rind 
and  juice  of  one  lemon,  well-beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs,  tablespoon 
corn-srarch  dissolved  in  a little  cold  water,  and  teaspoon  butter. 
Cook  till  thick  ; then  pour  into  a crust  already  baked,  spread  with 
a meringue  and  brown  in  oven.  This  makes  one  pie,. but  two  pies 
can  be  made  of  one  lemon  by  doubling  the  quantity  of  all  the  other 
ingredients.  Or  for  an  Economical  Lemon-pie^  take  one  pint  water, 
add  the  juice,  grated  rind  and  chopped  pulp  of  one  lemon;  when 
boiling,  stir  in  half  pint  sugar  and  third  of  a pint  flour,  well  mixed 
(when  corn-starch  or  flour  is  added  to  any  liquid  if  mixed  with  the 
dry  sugar  it  will  not  be  lumpy).  When  partially  thickened,  place  in 
pie-pan  lined  with  Quaker  Paste,  cover  with  upper  crust  and  bake. 
For  Chopped- T^emon-pie,  grate  rind  and  chop  pulp  of  three  lemons, 
from  which  the  white  outside  pith  and  seeds  have  been  carefully 
taken  ; this  is  v^ry  necessary  where  the  whole  lemon  is  used  as  they 
impart  a bitter  flavor.  Beat  together  yolks  of  four  eggs,  three  cups 
sugar,  half  cup  cold  water,  pinch  salt  and  tablespoon  corn-starch, 
mixed  smooth  in  part  of  the  water ; add  the  prepared  lemon  anct 
well-frothed  whites  of  eggs  and  bak%  with  two  crusts. 

Eggjess  Lemon-pie* — Mix  tablespoon  corn-starch  smooth  with 
little  water,  and  stir  in  cup  boiling  water ; add  juice  and  grated  rind 
of  a lemxon,  cup  sugar,  tablespoon  butter  and  bake  with  one  or  two 
crusts  as  preferred.  A raw  potato  size  of  lemon,  grated,  may  b® 
stirred  in  the  boiling  water  instead  of  corn-starch.  Or  With  Fruity 
take  cup  each  sugar,  water  and  seeded  raisins,  one  lemon,  and  grated 


622 


PASTRY. 


rind  if  flavor  is  liked ; chop  lemon  and  raisins,  fine,  and  some  cook 
the  raisins  with  the  water  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  stirring  in,  just 
before  taking  off  fire,  a tablespoon  corn- starch  made  smooth  with  a 
little  water.  Add  the  sugar  and  chopped  lemon  and  bake  in  two 
crusts.  Or  the  j uice  of  two  lemons  may  be  used,  and  the  whole  baked 
in  three  crusts,  putting  on  bottom  crust  a layer  of  the  chopped  fruit 
with  sugar  and  little  corn-starch  sprinkled  over,  then  another  crust, 
rolled  very  thin,  and  la^^er  of  fruit,  etc.,  then  the  top  crust. 

Sliced- Lemon-pie. — Pare  carefully  one  large  or  two  small  lem- 
ons, slice  thin,  remove  seeds,  cover  with  two  cups  sugar  and  let 
stand  an  hour.  Then  put  smoothly  in  two  pie-pans  lined  with  paste, 
add  three  tablespoons  cold  water  and  sprinkle  over  each  a teaspoon 
corn-starch.  Bake  with  upper  crust.  A little  grated  lemon  peel  may 
be  added.  Or  put  the  slices  of  lemon  in  the  crusts,  with  a cup  sugar, 
teaspoon  butter  in  bits  and  tablespoon  flour,  sprinkled  in  last,  to 
each  pie.  Cover  with  upper  crust  and  bake.  If  lemons  are  not  very 
juicy,  add  two  or  three  tablespoons  water  to  each  pie. 

Mince-meat. — Take  six  pounds  scraggy  beef — a neck  piece  will 
do — and  boil  in  water  enough  to  cover ; take  off  scum  that  rises 
when  it  reaches  boiling  point,  add  hot  w^ater  from  time  to  time  until 
tender,  then  remove  lid  from  pot,  salt,  let  boil  till  almost  dry,  turn- 
ing the  meat  over  occasionally  in  the  liquor,  take  from  the  fire,  and 
let  stand  overnight  in  the  liquor  to  get  thoroughly  cold  ; pick  bones, 
gristle,  or  stringy  bits  from  the  meat,  chop  very  fine,  mincing  at  the 
same  time  three  pounds  nice  beef  suet ; seed  and  cut  four  pounds 
raisins,  wash  and  dry  three  pounds  currants,  slice  thin  pound  of 
citron,  chop  fine  four  quarts  good-cooking  tart  apples;  put ^11  in 
large  pan  together,  add  two  ounces  cinnamon,  one  of  cloves,  one  of 
ginger,  four  nutmegs,  juice  and  grated  rinds  of  three  lemons,  table- 
spoon salt,  teaspoon  pepper,  and  two  pounds  sugar.  Put  in  a porce- 
lain kettle  quart  boiled  cider,  or  l^etter  still,  quart  currant  or  grape 
juice  (canned  when  grapes  are  turning  from  green  to  purple),  quart 
nice  molasses  or  syrup,  and,  if  any  syrup  at  hand  left  from  sweet 
pickles,  add  some  of  that,  also  a good  lump  of  butter ; let  it  come 
to  boiling  point,  and  pour  over  ingredients  in  pan  after  having  first 
mixed  them  v/eil,  then  mix  again  thoroughly.  Taste,  and  if  not 
properly  flavored,  add  more  boiled  cider,  fruit  juice,  or  seasoning,  as 
needed.  It  should  have  a smooth  agreeable  taste  with  no  one  flavor 
predominating.  Pack  in  jars  c^nd  put  in  a cool  place,  and,  when 
cold,  pour  molasses  over  the  top  an  eighth  of  an  inch  in  thickness, 
and  cover  tightly.  This  will  keep  two  months.  For  baking,  take 
some  out  of  jar,  if  not  moist  enough  add  a little  liot  water,  and  strew^a 
few  whole  raisins  over  each  pie.  Instead  cf  boiled  beef,  a beefs  tongue 
or  heart  or  roast  meat  may  be  used,  the  tongue  making  the  choicest 
of  all.  For  a very  nice  and  rich  IToliday  Mince-meat^  use  half  and 
half  boiled  beef  and  tongue  with  same  proportions  of  other  ingred- 


PASTRY. 


623 


ients  and  add  juice  and  rind  of  three  oranges,  quarter  pound  each 
candied  orange  and  lemon  peel,  sliced  thin ; three-quarters  pound 
sweet  almonds  and  an  ounce  bitter  almonds  (weighed  after  shelling), 
blanched  and  chopped,  atrd  half  teaspoon  almond  extract.  Also 
omit  two  nutmegs  and  add  teaspoon  mace,  and  if  the  syrup  is  ob- 
jected to  use  instead  two  pounds  more  sugar.  In  baking,  a table- 
spoon sweet  cream  for  each  pie,  heated  and  stirred  into  the  mince» 
meat  just  before  filling  in  crusts,  is  a great  improvement. 

The  above  are  good  formulas,  but,  of  course,  may  be  varied  to 
suit  different  tastes  or  the  material  at  hand,  and  for  convenience  a 
few  Suggestions  for  Mince-meat  are  given  : If  too  rich  add  more 
chopped  apples.  Reserve  some  of  the  liquor  in  which  the  meat  was 
boiled  to  moisten  the  mince-meat ; if  the  fat  which  forms  on  top  oi 
the  liquor  is  also  added  less  suet  will  be  required.  In  lieu  of  cider, 
vinegar  and  water  in  equal  proportions  may  be  used ; and  some  think 
a little  vinegar  should  be  added  when  either  cider  or  boiled  cider, 
are  used,  more  being  required  with  the  latter ; but  if  the  apples  are 
carefully  washed  and  pared,  the  strained  juice  obtained  from  the 
parings,  stewed  in  a little  water,  or  cooked  in  a crock  as  for  jelly, 
is  better  than  any  other  wetting,  to  which  a little  vinegar  may  be 
added  ; or  use  any  kind  of  tart  fruit  juice  ; or  some  use  cold  coffee 
and  tea  with  a little  vinegar.  Good  preserves,  marmalades,  spiced 
pickles,  currant  or  grape  jelly,  canned  fruit, dried  cherries,  prunelles, 
etc.,  may  take  the  place  of  raisins,  currants  and  citrons.  Wine  or 
brandy  is  considered  by  many  a great  improvement,  but  if  ‘ht  causeth 
thy  brother  to  offend”  do  not  use  it*.  Lemon  and  vanilla  extracts 
are  often  used.  The  Mince-meat  is  better  to  stand  overnight,  or 
several  days,  before  baking  into  pies,  as  the  materials  will  be  more 
thoroughly  incorporated.  Although  many  do  not  put  in  the  apples 
when  mince-meat  is  made,  thinking  it  keeps  better  and  longer  with- 
out, but  chop  and  add  them  to  the  quantity  to  be  used  about  an  hour 
before  baking,  in  equal  proportions,  though  some  prefer  after  chop- 
ping to  sweeten  and  stew  the  apples  till  partially  done,  then  add  to 
the  prepared  mixture,  and  make  into  pies.  Both  apples  and  meat 
may  be  put  through  the  sausage  grinder  instead  of  chopping.  Some 
do  not  cook  the  beef  before  chopping  and  putting  ingredients  to- 
gether, when  it  will  be  necessary,  after  mixing,  to  cook  all  thoroughly 
until  meat  is  tender,  adding  a little  water,  if  needed ; others  who 
cook  the  meat  first,  always  cook  the  mince-meat  after  mixing  until 
apples  are  tender.  Dried-apples  may  be  used  in  mince-meat,  simply 
soaking  overnight  before  chopping,  and  when  evaporated  apples  are 
used  the  pies  are  nearly  if  not  quite  as  excellent  as  those  made  with 
fresh  apples,  but  the  mince-meat  must  be  thoroughly  cooked.  A 
good  proportion  for  a few  pies  is  one-third  chopped  meat  and  two- 
thirds  apples,  with  a little  suet,  raisins  spices,  butter  and  salt,  and 
enough  boiled  cider  to  make  of  desired  consistency.  Care  should 
be  taken  not  to  have  the  mince-meat  too  thick,  or  the  pies  will  b® 


524 


PASTRY. 


dry  and  hard.  When  ready  to  use,  it  is  a good  plan  to  test  by  first 
baking  a small  pie  or  turn-over.  Many  prefer  to  freeze  Mince-pies 
after  baking,  heating  them  as  wanted. 

Appleless  Mince-meat. — Chop  fine  eight  pounds  green  tomatoes, 
add  six  pounds  sugar,  one  ounce  each  cloves,  cinnamon  and  allspice, 
and  simmer  slowly  till  tomatoes  are  clear,  then  put  away  in  covered 
jar.  For  pies  in  winter,  take  in  proportion  of  two-thirds  tomatoes 
and  one-third  meat,  and  season  with  butter,  boiled  cider,  sugar  if 
needed,  etc.,  as  regular  mince-pies  would  be  seasoned.  Chopped 
Pie-plant,  used  as  apples  in  any  of  the  Mince-meat  recipes  makes  a 
delicious  pie,  and  the  canned  pie-plant  may  also  be  used. 

Farmers''  Mince-meat.  Clean  pigs’  hocks  (the  joints  above  the 
feet),  and  let  stand  overnight  with  the  tongue  and  heart  in  salt  water ; 
then  cook  until  tender  in  enough  water  so  that  a quart  will  remain 
when  meat  is  taken  out,  which  will  be  a nice  thick  jelly.  Chop 
the  meat  fine,  first  removing  all  bones  and  skin,  and  add  double  the 
quantity  of  chopped  apples,  with  the  jelly  from  the  meat,  removing 
grease  from  top ; add  spices  to  taste,  with  raisins  or  English  cur- 
rants, and  enough  apple  juice,  prepared  as  in  Suggestions  for  Mince- 
meat, or  vinegar  and  cider  to  moisten  well.  Or  the  meat  from  a 
chicken  with  the  liquor  from  it  may  be  used,  adding  other  ingred- 
ients as  above,  but  makes  only  small  quantity. 

Fragment  Mince-meat. — Take  one  pint  chopped  corned  beef,  or 
remains  of  any  cold  meat  will  do,  carefully  removing  all  bits  of  skin, 
gristle  and  bone,  and  if  very  lean  adding  a little  fat  pork,  twelve  or- 
dinary sized  potatoes,  scalded  until  softened,  but  not  thoroughly 
cooked,  and  chopped,  pint  bread-crumbs,  and  any  bits  of  cake,  dough- 
nuts, etc.,  chopped  fine,  juice  of  four  lemons  with  the  chopped  pulp 
and  a little  grated  rind,  pint  each  sugar  and  molasses,  or  sweetening 
to  taste,  pound  raisins,  or  dried  currants  and  any  “left-over”  pre- 
serves at  hand,  or  dried  apple  sauce,  with  spices  to  taste ; put  all 
together  over  fire  with  cold  coffee,  tea  and  a little  vinegar — about 
three  pints  wetting  in  all — bring  to  scalding  heat  and  add  three  or 
four  well-beaten  eggs,  or  these  may  be  omitted.  Do  not  make  too 
thick  as  the  mixture  hardens  in  baking ; thin  with  water  if  necessary. 
Before  putting  into  pies,  taste  and  add  more  vinegar  or  seasoning  if 
needed.  These  fragment  pies  have  been  so  successfully  made  as  to 
be  thought  the  real  mince  article,  but  judgment  must  be  used  in 
amount  of  sugar,  wetting  and  seasoning  needed. 

Lemon  Mince-meat. — Boil  four  ripe  thin-skinned  lemons  in 
quart  water  till  water  has  half  boiled  away  ; squeeze  the  juice  over 
two  pounds  white  sugar,  remove  seeds  and  chop  rinds  and  pulp  fine ; 
chop  a pound  seedless  raisins  and  two  pounds  suet,  then  mix  all  to- 
gether and  add  two  pounds  currants,  an  ounce  mixed  ground  spices 
and  a gill  each  water  and  vinegar.  Two  ounces  blanched  and  chopped 


PASTRY. 


625 


sweet  almonds  and  half  pound  citron  may  be  added  if  liked.  Two 
lemons  may  be  omitted,  also  the  raisins,  and  six  large  apples,  chopped, 
added  instead.  Put  in  a jar,  stir  occasionally,  and  it  will  be  ready 
for  use  in  a week  or  ten  days.  Or  three  each  lemons  and  apples  may 
be  prepared  as  follows  : grate  rinds  of  lemons,  carefully  remove  white 
pith,  squeeze  out  juice,  strain  it,  and  boil  remainder  of  lemons  with 
seeds  removed,  until  tender,  take  off  and  pulp  or  chop  very  finely, 
add  rind  and  juice  and  the  pulp  from  the  apples,  which  have  been 
baked ; put  in  the  remaining  ingredients  one  by  one,  and  as  they 
are  added,  mix  everything  very  thoroughly  together.  A chopped 
tongue  may  be  added  if  liked,  although  no  meat  is  necessary. 

Measured  Mince-meat — One  and  a half  pints  chopped  meat, 
three  pints  chopped  apples,  half  pint  chopped  suet  or  butter,  or 
equal  parts  of  each,  half  pint  each  vinegar  and  cider,  pint  raisins, 
two  pints  sugar,  or  one  of  sugar  and  one  of  molasses,  one  tablespoon 
each  cinnamon,  nutmeg,  and  cloves,  half  tablespoon  each  salt  and 
pepper,  and  grated  rind  and  juice  of  one  lemon.  Scald  the  suet  after 
chopping,  and  cook  with  other  ingredients  until  apples  are  tender 
before  adding  spices.  If  too  thick,  add  equal  parts  vinegar  and  water. 

Molasses-pie. — Three  eggs,  yolks  and  whites  beaten  separately, 
half  cup  New  Orleans  or  sorghum  molasses,  cup  white  sugar,  butter 
size  of  a walnut,  cup  sour  cream,  teaspoon  soda  stirred  into  molas- 
ses, whites  mixed  in  last ; or  reserve  two  whites  for  meringue.  Bake 
slowly  in  moderate  oven.  Nutmeg  gives  a nice  flavor.  Another  half 
cup  molasses  may  be  added  with  teaspoon  corn-starch,  making  suf- 
ficient for  two  pies.  They  may  also  be  baked  with  two  crusts. 

Orange-pie. — Cream  tablespoon  butter  and  four  of  sugar,  add 
beaten  yolks  of  four  eggs,  grated  rind  and  juice  of  two  oranges,  and, 
lastly,  the  whites  beaten  to  a froth,  and  mixed  in  lightly.  Bake  in 
one  crust  half  an  hour.  Whites  of  two  eggs  may  be  reserved  and 
used  for  meringue  for  top.  If  not  liked  so  rich  use  milk  or  creami 
instead  of  butter.  Or  beat  cup  powdered  sugar  and  tablespoon  but- 
ter to  a cream ; mix  tablespoon  corn-starch  with  a little  cold  water, 
and  add  cup  boiling  water ; cook  long  enough  to  thicken,  stirring 
constantly ; then  pour  the  mixture  over  butter  and  sugar,  add  grated 
rind  of  half  an  orange,  beaten  egg  and  juice  of  an  orange.  Peel  an- 
other orange,  and  slice  in  little  thin  bits,  being  careful  to  remove  all 
the  seeds  and  the  tough  white  skin.  Line  a pie-pan  with  nice  paste 
and  bake  until  just  done ; then  fill  with  the  custard  and  orange  slices 
and  bake  long  enough  to  cook  the  egg.  A meringue  may  be  added 
if  liked.  The  following  California  Pie  is  a very  elaborate  recipe  : 
Stir  a cup  sifted  sugar  with  juice  of  six  large  oranges  over  fire  until  . 
hot,  skim  and  set  aside  to  cool.  When  nearly  cold  add  ycfiks  of  six 
eggs,  beaten  very  light  and  a half  pint  cream  ; stir  over  a slow  fire 
until  thick.  Turn  into  baked  crusts  and  spread  a meringue  on  top, 


626 


PASTRY. 


and  brown  in  oven.  Or  serve  as  Orange  Custard  in  glasses  with  a 
heaped  tablespoon  of  the  whites  of  eggs  beaten  with  a cup  powdered 
sugar  on  each,  or  the  same  of  whipped  cream.  For  a Sliced-  Orange- 
pie^  pare  oranges  very  thin,  soak  whole  in  water  three  days,  chang- 
ing the  water  frequently.  Boil  until  soft.  When  cold,  cut  a thick 
slice  from  the  top  and  bottom,  and  the  rest  in  thin  slices ; bake  in 
rich  under  crust,  filling  with  layers  of  sugar  and  the  thin  slices  of 
oranges  alternately. 

Peach-pie. — Line  a pie-pan  with  Puff  Paste,  fill  with  pared 
peaches  in  halves  or  quarters,  well  covered  with  sugar ; put  on  upper 
crust  and  bake  ; or  make  as  above  without  upper  crust,  bake  until 
done,  remove  from  oven,  and  cover  with  a meringue.  Canned  peach- 
es may  be  used  instead  of  fresh,  in  the  same  way.  Or  bake  in  two 
separate  pans  an  under  and  upper  crust  in  a quick  oven  fifteen  min- 
utes ; when  done  place  in  the  lower  crust  one  quart  peaches  pre- 
pared by  slicing,  and  adding  three  tablespoons  each  sugar  and  cream, 
cover  with  top  crust,  and  place  in  oven  for  five  minutes.  Apricot., 
Raspberry  and  Strawberry -pies  may  be  made  same  way.  Adding 
a few  of  the  kernels,  blanched  and  chopped  fine,  improves  apricot 
and  peach-pies.  For  Cream  Peach-pie,  line  a deep  dish  with  Cream 
Paste  ; pare  and  halve  nice  ripe  peaches,  or  they  may  be  left  whole, 
and  fill  the  dish.  Beat  a pint  cream  and  three  tablespoonfuls  sugar 
together  and  pour  over  the  peaches ; dredge  on  a little  flour,  put  on 
top  crust,  and  bake  until  peaches  are  well  cooked.  Berry  or  Cur- 
rant-pies may  be  made  same. 

Pried- P each-pie. peaches  until  perfectly  soft  in  as  little 
water  as  possible,  mash  fine,  and  for  two  pies  add  half  cup  sweet 
cream,  and  one  cup  sugar ; bake  with  two  crusts.  Or,  omit  cream, 
and  add  half  cup  boiling  water,  and  butter  size  of  hickory-nut.^  For 
Turn-overs,  roll  paste  rather  thin  and  size  of  pie-pan ; place  it  in 
latter,  spread  the  prepared  fruit,  not  too  thick,  on  half  of  the  paste, 
double  over  the  other  half  and  pinch  the  edges  firmly  together ; prick 
top  with  a fork  and  bake. 

Pie-plant-pie. — Mix  half  cup  white  sugar  and  heaping  teaspoon 
flour  together,  sprinkle  over  the  bottom  crust,  then  add  the  pie-plant 
chopped  or  cut  up  fine ; sprinkle  over  this  another  half  cup  sugar 
and  heaping  teaspoon  flour ; bake  fully  three-quarters  of  an  hour  in 
a slow  oven.  In  preparing  pie-plant  for  any  purpose  some  pour  on 
’ooiling  water  and  let  stand  a few  moments,  or  till  cold,  then  pour 
off,  and  much  of  the  sharp  acid  taste  will  be  removed,  thus  requir- 
ing less  sugar  in  the  seasoning.  Some  cover  the  bottom  crust  thickly 
with  sifted  bread-crumbs  before  putting  in  the  pie-plant,  prepared  by 
first  splitting  the  stalks  lengthwise,  to  have  them  as  thin  as  possible, 
then  cutting  in  inch  pieces.  A few  small  bits  of  butter  added  are 
an  improvement,  and  any  spice  or  extract  may  be  used  for  flavoring. 
Grated  lemon  rind  is  also  nice.  Cover  with  top  crust  and  bake. 


PASTRY. 


627 


Make  With  Fruity  by  adding  raisins  in  proportion  of  one  cup  rais- 
ins, chopped,  to  two  of  chopped  pie-plant ; add  sugar  to  taste,  little 
butter,  and  sprinkle  over  little  flour  before  putting  on  upper  crust. 
A mixture  of  black  currants  and  pie-plant  is  liked  by  some.  For 
Stewed- Pie-plant-pie ^ cook  one  and  a half  cups  chopped  pie-plant 
with  half  cup  water  and  two-thirds  cup  sugar,  adding  tablespoon 
corn-starch  or  flour  made  smooth  in  little  water  just  before  taking 
from  fire ; let  cool  and  add  teaspoon  lemon  extract,  pinch  of  salt, 
yolks  of  two  eggs  and  white  of  one ; bake  in  one  crust,  using  white 
of  egg  for  meringue.  Grated  rind  and  juice  of  a lemon  may  be 
added  instead  of  the  extract,  and  only  the  two  yolks  used  with  the 
fruit,  or  use  one  egg  and  cover  with  a Diamond  Top. 

Pine- apple-pie. — Pare,  carefully  remove  all  specks  and  grate 
one  pine-apple  ; beat  half  cup  butter  and  cup  sugar  to  a cream  and 
add  beaten  yolks  of  five  eggs,  the  grated  pine-apple  and  cup  sweet 
cream,  stirring  in  lightly  the  whipped  whites  of  eggs  last.  Bake  in 
one  crust.  Some  take  same  quantity  of  sugar  as  pine-apple  and 
half  as  much  butter,  with  other  ingredients  as  above. 

Plum-pie. — Put  plums  in  a little  sugar  and  water,  and  simmer 
until  tender ; then  take  out  and  put  them  in  a dish,  add  more  sugar 
to  juice,  and  boil  till  it  begins  to  thicken ; then  turn  it  over  the 
plums,  and  set  aside  to  cool.  When  cold,  line  pie-pan  with  a rich 
paste,  fill  with  plums,  cover  with  Puff  Paste,  and  bake  half  an  hour. 

Potato-pie. — Heat  quart  sweet  milk  and  when  boiling  stir  in 
cup  grated  potato  ; let  cool,  and  add  two  or  three  eggs  well  beaten, 
half  cup  sugar  and  nutmeg,  or  grated  rind  of  a lemon,  to  taste  ; bake 
without  upper  crust ; eat  day  it  is  baked.  Makes  two  pies.  Or  boil 
and  mash  potatoes  through  sieve  and  make  as  above.  For  a richer 
pie  use  one-third  as  much  potato  pulp  as  milk.  Whites  of  two  eggs 
may  be  reserved  for  meringue,  to  which  add  juice  of  half  a lemon. 

. Sweet- Potato-pie. — Boil  sweet  potatoes  until  well  done,  mash 
and  rub  through  sieve  ; to  each  pint  pulp,  add  three  pints  sweet  milk, 
tablespoon  melted  butter,  cup  sugar,  three  eggs,  pinch  of  salt  and 
nutmeg  or  lemon  to  flavor.  Use  rich  paste  for  under  crust.  Reserve 
whites  of  two  eggs  for  meringue.  For  a richer  pie  use  equal  quan- 
tities potato  pulp  and  milk.  If  wanted  still  richer  omit  the  milk 
and  add  two  tablespoons  soft  butter.  Some  add  juice  and  rind  of  a 
lemon,  and  any -flavoring  liked  may  be  used ; tablespoon  cinnamon 
and  teaspoon  nutmeg  give  a nice  flavor.  A little  ginger  may  be 
added  if  liked.  Or  line  a deep  plate  with  good  paste  and  put  in  a 
layer  of  sliced  sweet  potatoes,  that  have  been  baked  until  nearly 
done ; sprinkle  brown  sugar  thickly  over,  put  in  a layer  of  thin  slices 
of  butter,  with  a sprinkling  of  flour  and  spices  to  taste ; using  a 
heaping  tablespoon  each  butter  and  flour  for  one  pie  ; put  in  another 
layer  of  potatoes  piled  a little  in  center;  mix  together  equal  quan- 


628 


PASTRY. 


tities  lemon  juice  and  water,  or  vinegar  and  water  and  pour  in  enough 
to  half  fill  the  pie  ; sprinkle  over  the  potato  a little  flour  and  place 
on  the  upper  crust,  pinching  the  edges  carefully  together. 

Prune-pie. — Take  two  cups  French  prunes,  washed  thoroughly 
and  soaked  in  water  overnight ; cup  sugar,  teaspoon  extract  lemon, 
two  tablespoons  boiled  cider,  one-third  cup  water ; sprinkle  teaspoon 
flour  over  top  of  each  pie ; bake  twenty-five  minutes  in  rather  hot 
oven.  The  boiled  cider  may  be  omitted,  and  half  a lemon,  peeled 
and  sliced  thin,  used  instead,  or  a tablespoon  vinegar.  Some  cook 
the  mixture,  adding  the  flour,  before  putting  in  pie.  For  a Prune- 
Custard-jpie^  soak  prunes  overnight  and  cook  as  for  Stewed  Prunes ; 
meantime  make  a custard  of  two  tablespoons  corn-starch,  quart 
milk,  two  eggs  and  four  tablespoons  sugar,  with  little  butter  and  salt 
and  stir  in  the  prunes.  Bake  in  one  crust.  Whites  of  eggs  may  be 
reserved  from  custard  for  a meringue  if  desired.  A few  raisins  may 
be  stewed  with  the  prunes  and  grated  lemon  rind  added  for  flavor- 
ing. SomQ  remove  the  pits  before  putting  prunes  in  custard.  . 

PumpJdn-pie. — Pare  pumpkin,  cut  in  small  pieces,  and  stew  in 
half  pint  water ; it  is  better  to  stew  very  slowly,  stirring  often ; when 
soft,  mash  very  fine  with  potato-masher,  let  the  water  dry  away,  watch- 
ing closely  and  stirring  to  prevent  burning  or  scorching ; or  take  from 
kettle  and  pulp  through  sieve  ; for  each  pie  take  one  egg, white  and  yolk 
beaten  separately,  adding  white  last,  half  cup  sugar,  two  tablespoons 
pumpkin,  half  pint  rich  milk  (a  little  cream  will  improve  it),  a little 
salt ; beat  well  together,  and  season  with  cinnamon  or  nutmeg,  and  a 
half  teaspoon  ginger  improves  the  flavor.  Bake  with  under  crust  in  a 
hot  oven.  Some  stew  pumpkin  all  day,  on  back  of  stove,  with  a lit- 
tle water,  stirring  every  little  while  to  prevent  burning.  A quantity 
may  be  cooked  at  one  time,  and  it  is  considered  sweeter  to  be 
thus  prepared;  then  pulp  through  colander  and  take  amount 
wanted,  putting  remainder  in  a cool  place.  To  three  table- 
spoons pulp  add  two-thirds  pint  milk,  teaspoon  flour,  one  egg, 
beaten  as  above,  tablespoon  each  butter  and  su- 
gar and  one-third  teaspoon  each  nutmeg,  cinnamon 
and  ginger  for  one  pie.  Too  much  sugar  makes  the  pies  watery. 
Bake  in  a deep  pie-pan  as  illustrated.  Some  steam  pumpkin  instead 
of  stewing,  when  it  should  be  placed  in  pan  on  back  of  stove  for 
moisture  to  dry  out,  then  put  through  sieve.  Baking  is  a nice  way 
of  preparing  pumpkin ; cut  in  pieces,  take  out  seeds  and  bake  until 
soft ; it  will  be  sweet  and  dry,  without  the  trouble  of  watching  and 
stirring,  and  may  be  pulped  through  a sieve  and  used  immediately. 
In  whatever  way  pumpkin  is  cooked,  some  do  not  take  out  the  net- 
work inside,  but  simply  remove  seeds  carefully,  and  some  even 
leave  in  a few  seeds,  as  the  pulping  through  sieve  removes  the 
pieces  of  seed,  thinking  it  all  enriches  the  pulp.  The  propor- 
tions of  ingredients  are  varied  to  suit  the  taste,  though  from 


PASTRY. 


629 


half  to  two -thirds  as  much  pumpkin  as  milk  is  a general  rule, 
with  an  egg  for  each  pie  as  above  and  sugar  and  flavoring  to  taste. 
Another  rule,  which  makes  very  rich  pies,  is  to  each  quart  pumpkin 
pulp  add  two  heaping  tablespoons  butter,  five  eggs,  beaten  as  above, 
quart  milk,  cup  sugar,  tablespoon  mixed  ground  spice  and  teaspoon 
salt ; stir  the  butter  into  pumpkin  wdiile  hot ; or  omit  the  butter  and 
use  twelve  eggs  wfith  same  proportions  other  ingredients.  Some  heat 
the  mixture,  stirring  constantly,  before  putting  in  pans,  others  add 
half  the  milk  to  pumpkin  and  heat  the  rest  and  stir  in  just  before 
baking.  Always  beat  the  yolks  of  eggs  and  sugar  together.  Serve 
pumpkin  pies  either  warm  or  cold,  but  they  are  considered  in  their 
prime  an  hour  after  they  are  baked.  F or  Eggless  Pumpkin-pie^ 
add  to  each  pint  and  a half  pumpkin  pulp,  quart  milk,  tablespoon 
butter,  cup  sugar,  little  salt,  tablespoon  cinnamon,  teaspoon  ginger, 
two  tablespoons  flour,  or  one  of  corn-starch;  or  roll  crackers  or 
bread-crumbs  fine  and  use  for  thickening.  Some  use  equal  quan- 
tities pumpkin  and  milk,  thinking  it  necessary  to  have  them 
thicker  when  made  without  eggs,  and  also  heat  the  milk  in  custard 
kettle,  adding  the  flour-  and  cooki’.ig  ton  minutes ; then  stir  it  into 
the  pumpkin,  first  having  thoroughly  beaten  into  the  latter  the  sugar, 
or  better,  tablespoon  and  a half  molasses  of  any  kind.  As  the  thicken- 
ing property  of  pumpkin  varies  some  judgment  must  be  used  in  ad- 
ding milk.  Any  flavoring  liked  may  be  used  ; a little  sassafras  is  deli- 
cious, grated  lemon  rind  is  also  nice,  and  either  is  an  agreeable  change 
from  nutmeg  or  the  spices  so  commonly  used.  Half  pumpkin  and 
half  stew^ed  and  pulped  apples  make  a pie  liked  by  some.  Squash- 
pies  are  made  same  as  pumpkin.  For  Dried- Pumgkin-pies,  soak 
pumpkin  overnight  in  milk,  and  then  use  as  ’n  any  of  above  recipes  ; 
or  place  pumpkin  in  sauce  pan,  add  water  to  cover  and  cook  till  soft, 
adding  water  as  needed  ; then  pulp  through  sieve  and  use  as  above. 
If  dried  pumpkin  is  a little  scorched,  or  too  brown,  cook  five  or  ten 
minutes,  then  pour  off  water  and  add  fresh  and  finish  as  directed. 

Raistn-pie. — One  cup  each  raisins,  water  and  sugar,  heaping 
tablespoon  flour,  and  small  lump  butter;  put  the  water  on  raisins 
and  boil  five  minutes ; add  flour,  smoothed  in  a little  cold  w^ater, 
then  add  sugar,  and  boil  five  minutes  longer;  stir  in  the  butter  and 
bake  with  a rich  upper  and  under  crust.  Or  take  one  cup  each  su- 
gar and  raisins,  one  and  a half  of  thick,  sour  milk,  one  egg,  two 
teaspoons  cinnamon  and  one  of  cloves ; makes  two  pies.  Bake  in 
two  crusts.  Another  excellent  pie  takes  one  pound  each  raisins  and 
sugar,  a lemon,  and  tablespoon  butter;  boil  the  raisins  half  day 
without  cutting;  when  tender,  mix  tablespoon  flour  smooth  in  little 
water  and  stir  in  to  scald  in  the  juice ; add  grated  rind  of  a lemon 
and  the  lemon,  sliced,  removing  pith  and  seeds.  Makes  four  pies, 
and  will  keep  like  mince.  In  any  of  the  recipes  cracker-crumbs 
may  be  used  in  place  of  flour,  and  vinegar  in  place  of  the  lemon  juice. 
Nice  baked  with  a Diamond  Top. 


630 


PASTRY. 


Rice-pie. — To  one  quart  boiling  water,  add  cup  rice  and  boil 
until  soft ; remove  from  fire,  add  quart  cold  milk,  teaspoon  salt,  five 
eggs,  whites  and  yolks  beaten  separately,  teaspoon  extract  of  nut- 
meg, or  a grated  nutmeg,  and  sugar  to  taste.  Some  prefer  to  pulp 
rice  through  a sieve.  Bake  in  one  crust,  and  raisins  may  be  added, 
if  liked.  If  cold  boiled  rice  is  used,  heat  it  in  the  milk,  and  take  in 
proportion  of  one  cup  rice  to  cup  and  a half  sweet  milk;  then  add 
three  tablespoons  sugar  beaten  with  yolks  of  two  eggs  and  lastly  the 
vrell-frothed  whites.  Slightly  brov/n  the  under  crust,  fill  and  bake. 
Or  to  one  quart  boiling  milk  add  small  cup  rice  flour  mixed  in  a lit- 
tle cold  milk,  and  two  tablespoons  butter ; when  cold,  stir  in  yolks 
of  five  eggs,  beaten  as  above,  flavor  with  vanilla,  add  frothed  whites 
and  bake  in  one  crust,  covering  with  a meringue  made  from  three 
of  the  whites.  Makes  two  pies. 

Straioherry-pie. — Pick  the  berries  carefully.  Line  a pie-plate 
with  good  paste,  put  in  a layer  of  the  strawberries,  and  sprinkle 
thickly  with  sugar ; then  another  layer  and  more  sugar,  till  the  plate 
is  full.  Fill  very  full  as  strawberries  shrink  greatly  in  cooking. 
Cover  with  light  crust,  and  bake  in  moderate  oven.  Or  for  Sarato- 
ga Pie^  make  and  bake  as  above,  using  Quaker  Paste  with  little 
thicker  crusts,  and  not  pinching  edges  together ; when  done,  remove 
upper  crust  and  pour  in  at  once  a cold  cream  prepared  as  follows  : 
heat  in  custard  kettle  half  pint  cream  or  nev/  milk  and  stir  in  level 
tablespoon  corn-starch  made  smooth  in  a little  cold  milk,  cook  eight 
minutes  and  then  add  lightly  well-frothed  whites  of  two  eggs  beaten 
with  heaping  tablespoon  sugar;  cook  three  minutes  and  let  cool. 
After  adding  this,  replace  the  top  and  serve  the  pie  when  cold.  Rasp-' 
herries  are  delicious  prepared  as  above. 

Tomato-pie. — For  one  pie,  peel  and  slice  green  tomatoes,  add 
four  tablespoons  vinegar,  one  of  butter,  three  of  sugar ; flavor  with 
nutrneg  or  cinnamon  ; bake  with  two  crusts,  slowly.  This  tastes  very 
much  like  green-apple-pie.  A little  ginger  may  be  sprinkled  in,  if 
liked,  and  the  grated  peel  and  juice  of  a lemon  is  an  improvement. 
For  Ripe-  TomMo-yne^  prepare  same  way,  omitting  vinegar  and  but- 
ter, and  before  putting  on  top  crust  sprinkle  in  tablespoon  flour.  Do 
not  use  lemon  juice  in  this.  Flavor  with  lemon  extract. 

Vinegar-pie. — One  egg,  heaping  tablespoon  flour,  cup  sugar; 
beat  all  well  together,  and  add  tablespoon  sharp  vinegar,  and  cup 
cold  water  ; flavor  with  nutmeg  and  bake  with  two  crusts.  Or  take 
cup  sugar,  half  cup  vinegar,  two  teasymons  flour,  one  of  butter,  one 
of  cinnamon,  two  cups  water ; boil  all  together  till  thick,  and  bake 
in  one  crust.  Very  nice. 

Tart  Shells. — These  shells  are  made  in  various  shapes,  generally 
from  Puff  Paste,  and  used  for  serving  Jellies,  Jams,  Preserves  and 
Oysters,  and  are  also  nice  for  anything  usually  served  in  paper  cases, 


PASTRY. 


631 


when  the  paste  should  be  rolled  very  thin,  and  for  Patty  Shells  baked 
delicately  in  any  shaped  patty-pans  liked,  but  those  about 
an  inch  and  a quarter  deep,  are  best,  and  always  prick  with 
a fork  before  baking  to  prevent  blistering,  or  fill  with  uncooked  rice 
to  keep  their  shape.  Any  bits  of  pastry  may  be  utilized  for  shells, 
and  the  latter  may  be  kept  on  hand  and  reheated  when  used  for  jellies 
etc.,  but  this  will  not  be  necessary  if  any  preparation  that  has  to  be 
heated,  or  placed  in  oven,  is  served  in  them,  and  must  of  course 
never  be  done  when  to  be  used  for  serving  ice-cream,  or  any  cold 
fruit  or  other  creams.  The  shells  for  Ice-cream, otc.,  should  be  ]nade 
of  the  paste  for  Cream  Tarts  or  the  Sweet  Paste,  page  612.  For  Cut 
Shells^  take  Puff  Paste,  after  the  last  rolling,  roll  out  evenly  in  a 
sheet  a third  of  an  inch  in  thickness ; whole  of  the  paste  need  not 
be  rolled,  but  cut  off  a piece  sufficient  to  make  the  number  of  tarts 
wished  and  roll  it  out.  The  sheet  being  ready,  cut  the  number  re- 
quired with  a plain  or  scalloped  round  cutter,  about  two  and  a half 
inches  in  diameter.  Place  on  baking  pans,  having  turned  them  over 
bringing  the  bottom  on  top.  Next  brush  with  beaten  egg,  or  egg 
and  water,  and  if  to  be  used  for  Jellies,  Preserves  or  any  sweet  filling, 
dust  over  with  sugar ; then  with  a small,  plain  round  cutter,  an  inch 
and  a half  in  diameter,  make  a mark  in  center  of  each,  pressing  the 
cutter  half  through.  Prick  each  in  center  with  point  of  knife  or 
fork  to  prevent  blistering,  and  bake.  The  part  marked  with  the 
small,  round  cutter  will  detach  itself  from  the  other  part  and  may 
be  removed  with  a penknife  or  a fork,  leaving  a hole  into  which  ]^our 
the  jam  or  jelly  used.  Cut  out  shells  with  a sharp  Gwiie.v  giving  a 
rapid  downward  stroke  that  will  cut,  not  drag  through,  so  that  the 
layers  may  not  be  pressed  together,  which  prevents  their  opening 
readily  when  baking,  and  keeps  them  from  rising  fully.  After  they 
are  cut,  place  them  on  the  pans  or  in  the  patty-pans  upside  doion, 
because  the  cutter  in  dividing  the  paste  presses  downward  toward 
the  board,  closing  the  layers,  and  if  placed  in  oven  right  side  up, the 
edges,  pressed  somewhat  closely  together,  can  not  open  fully  and  con- 
sequently do  not  rise  well,  but,  if  inverted,  the  layers  open  more 
evenly  at  the  edges.  Some  add  the  jelly  before  baking,  but  this 
should  not  be  done,  as  in  baking  the  heat  causes  the  jelly  to  boil,  and 
it  spreads  itself  over  the  tart  and  spoils  its  appearance.  For  Layer 
Shells^  roll  nice  puff  paste  a quarter  inch  thick  and  with  round  cut- 
ter, two  and  a half  inches  in  diameter,  cut  out  number  pieces  wanted  ; 
then  cut  same  number  pieces  with  cutter  a half  inch  smaller  and  cut 
out  the  center  of  these  with  a cutter  an  inch  and  a half  in  diam  Ter, 
forming  rings  ; brush  top  of  first  pieces  cut  with  white  of  egg,  place 
the  rings  last  cut  on  these  and  bake  for  single-lay- 
I er  shells.  If  wanted  more  elaborate  cut  out  two 
rings  as  above,  brush  tops  with  white  of  egg  and 
Lajer  Shelia.  put  together  on  the  circle  of  paste  cut  v, n't h the 
larger  cutter  for  the  bottom,  making  double  layer  shells.  For  Py- 


632 


PASTRY. 


ramid  Shells^  take  a piece  of  Short  Paste,  or  scraps  of  Puff  Paste, 
roll  one-fourth  of  an  inch  thick,  and  cut  out  the  number  of  pieces 
required  with  the  same  cutter  as  for  Cut  Shells,  place  them  in  baking 
pan  and  prick  them  with  a fork.  Cut  a like  number  with  same  cut- 
ter, and  of  same  thickness  from  best  puff  paste;  wash  those  cut 
from  the  scraps,  or  Short  Paste,  and  place  those  cut  from  the  puff 
paste  on  them,  wash  with  egg,  and  prick  them  in  middle.  Next  cut 
a like  number,  same  thickness, with  same  cutter,  and  from  Puff  Paste, 
cut  the  middle  out  of  these  with  a plain  round  cutter,  an  inch  and  a 
half  in  diameter,  place  these  rings  on  the  other  parts  and  bake  them. 
Or  to  build  in  real  pyramidal  form,  use  a different-sized  cutter  for 
each  layer,  cutting  each  a quarter  inch  smaller  than  the  one  below, 
but  using  same  cutter,  an  inch  and  a half  in  diameter,  for  cutting 
out  centers  of  two  upper  layers.  Then  put  together  as  above.  While 
baking  take  the  piece  that  comes  from  the  middle  of  the  ring  piece 
and  roll  it  out  a little  larger,  then  cut  three  other  pieces  with  a scal- 
loped round  cutter,  each  a size  smaller  than  the  others ; place  them 
on  baking  pans,  prick  them,  wash  with  egg,  and  bake,  and  when  the 
shells  are  filled  use  these  for  covers.  When  the  shells  are  all  baked 
if  the  hole  is  not  deep  enough  for  the  purpose,  remove  some  of  the 
pastry  inside  the  ring  with  a knife.  Pyramid  shells  are  used  for 
serving  Oyster,  Chicken  or  Lobster  Friccassee,  and  instead  of  making 
the  individual  size,  they  are  sometimes  made  large  enough  to  serve 
the  friccassee  entire,  rolling  the  paste  about  an  inch  thick.  An  or- 
dinary size  would  be  nine  or  ten  inches  in  diameter,  and  may  be 
made  also  as  Cut  or  Layer  Shells,  laying  a plate  of  the  desired  size 
on  the  paste  and  cutting  out  the  shape  with  a wet  knife,  using  a 
plate  with  diameter  about  two  inches  smaller  for  the  inner  round, 
and  cutting  about  half  through  the  paste.  When 
baked,  carefully  remove  this  round  without 
breaking  it,  or  the  under  part,  and  lay  it  a^ide 
to  be  used  as  a cover  for  the  fricassee  when  served. 

If  the  under  paste  does  not  seem  thoroughly 
cooked  when  this  is  cut  out,  return  to  oven.  The  above  shells,  both 
large  and  small,  are  also  styled  Vol-au-Vents.  To  make  Folded 
Shells^  roll  puff  paste  thin,  cut  into  two  and  a half  inch  squares  and 
brush  each  square  over  with  white  of  beaten  egg,  then  fold  down  the 
corners  so  that  all  meet  in  middle ; slightly  press  together,  brush 
with  the  egg,  sift  sugar  over  and  bake  in  quick  oven  quarter  of  an 
liour  ; when  done  make  a little  hole  in  the  middle  and  put  in  filling. 
In  rolling  puff  paste  for  shells,  some  wet  the  top,  before  folding  it 
the  last  time,  with  water  or  a little  lemon  juice. 

Apple  Tarts. — Pare,  quarter,  core  and  boil  in  half  cup  water 
until  very  soft,  ten  large  tart  apples  ; beat  till  very  smooth,  and  add 
yolks  of  six  or  three  whole  eggs,  juice  and  grated  rind  of  two  lem- 
ons, half  cup  butter,  one  and  a half  cups  sugar,  or  more  if  not  sweet 
enough ; beat  all  thoroughly,  line  patty-pans  with  Puff  Paste,  fill 


Large  Vol-au-Vent. 


PASTRY. 


633 


with  mixture  and  bake  five  minutes  in  hot  oven.  If  wanted  very 
nice,  make  a meringue  of  whites  of  six  eggs,  spread  on  top  of  tarts 
and  brown  slightly.  For  Almond  larts^  beat  to  a cream  yolks  of 
three  eggs,  and  quarter  of  a pound  sugar,  add  half  pound  shelled 
almonds  pounded  slightly,  and  bake  as  above.  Or  use  the  whites  of 
three  eggs,  omitting  the  yolks.  For  Cocoa-nut  Tarts,  dissolve  half 
pound  sugar  in  quarter  pint  water,  add  half  a grated  cocoa-nut,  boil 
slowly  a few  minutes,  and  when  cold,  add  well-beaten  yolks  of  three 
eggs  and  white  of  one ; beat  all  well  together  and  bake  as  above. 
Cover  tarts  with  a meringue  made  of  whites  of  two  eggs. 

Chocolate  Tarts. — Dissolve  three  tablespoons  grated  chocolate 
in  quarter  pint  milk ; then  add  one  pint  scalded  milk  thickened 
slightly  with  one  and  a half  tablespoons  corn-starch ; dissolve  six 
tablespoons  granulated  sugar  in  four  of  hot  water,  add  half  teaspoon 
cinnamon  and  one  teaspoon  melted  butter.  When  chocolate  mix- 
ture is  cold  add  this  to  it,  with  half  teaspoon  vanilla  and  yolks  of 
four  eggs  well  beaten.  Line  patty-pans  with  puff  paste,  fill,  bake  and 
cover  with  a meringue.  Or  they  may  be  lined,  filled,  baked  and  kept 
in  a cool  dry  place  for  a week  or  two,  covering  with  a meringue,  and 
browning  in  oven  just  before  serving. 

Coventry  Tarts. — Take  scraps  of  puff  paste  and  roll  out  into 
sheet  quarter  inch  thick.  Cut  number  of  pieces  required  with  plain 
round  cutter  three  inches  in  diameter.  Roll  out  as  for  Preserve 
Tarts,  add  fancy  preserves,  then  fold  or  lap  paste  over  in  three  folds, 
forming  a triangle.  Turn  folded  part  down  on  baking  pans,  wash 
with  water,  or  egg  and  water,  dust  with  powdered  sugar,  and  bake. 
Do  not  cut  these  on  top.  Or  for  true  Triangle  Tarts,  Roll  the  paste 
to  a thin  sheet  and  cut  it  in  two  and  a half  inch  squares.  Put  a 
teaspoon  jam  in  center  and  fold  over  so  as  to  make  a three-cornered 


tart.  Run  paste  j agger  along  edges  to  close 
them  by  cutting  off  a shred,  or  pinch  them 
together  with  fingers.  Brush  over  the  tops. 


Paste  Jagger. 


after  placing  in  baking  pan,  with  egg  and  water  and  sprinkle  gran- 
ulated sugar  upon  them,  and  bake  in  slow  oven. 

Cream  Tarts. — Make  a short  paste  with  one  white  and  three 
yolks  of  eggs,  tablespoon  butter  and  two  of  sugar,  little  salt,  and 
flour  to  mix.  Work  it  very  lightly  indeed,  roll  quarter  inch  thick, 
line  patty-pans  with  it,  filling  them  with  rice  to  keep  their  shape. 
Bake  carefully  in  moderate  oven.  Fill  with  jam,  placing  tablespoon 
whipped  cream  on  top.  A very  pretty  dish.  They  may  be  filled 
with  a Chocolate  Ice.,  made  by  cooking  a syrup  of  quart  water  and 
pint  sugar  half  an  hour;  then  adding  a chocolate  paste  mnde  by 
pouring  four  tablespoons  water  over  a scant  half  teaspoon  pqwdered 
cinnamon,  letting  stand  half  an  hour,  then  straining  over  four  heap- 
ing tablespoons  grated  chocolate  and  mixing  together.  This  spicing 


6U 


PASTRY. 


of  chocolate  is  nice  in  any  recipes  where  chocolate  is  used.  After 
adding  to  hot  syrup,  stir  a moment,  strain,  and  when  cold,  add  half 
teaspoon  vanilla  extract  and  juice  three  lemons,  (three-iourths  gill). 
Freeze  as  directed  in  Ices,  adding  the  Meringue  For  Ices,  made  of 
white  of  one  egg,  on  page  407 ; and  although  only  white  of  one  egg 
is  taken  where  three  'pints  of  'mater  is  used  in  making  the  syrup,  it 
is  not  too  much  for  a quart  of  water,  as  above.  The  syrup,  when 
cooked,  should  be  reduced  to  about  two  thirds  of  the  water  and  su- 
gar used,  making  in  this  recipe  one  quart  syrup.  This  rule  applies 
to  all  Ices  made  With  Syrup  which  is  by  far  the  better  way  of  mak- 
ing them,  giving  a firm,  smooth,  delicious  ice,  and  to  the  syrup  one 
can  add  juice  of  any  fruit  or  any  other  flavoring  used  in  Ice-creams, 
and  the  above  way  of  serving  is  very  nice. 

Currant  Tarts, — Take  one  cup  cleanly-picked  currants,  and  a 
cup  each  granulated  sugar  and  finely  chopped  lemon  peel;  add  fla- 
voring of  ground  ginger  and  cinnamon  and  mix  all  well  together. 
Take  enough  scraps  of  any  paste  and  roll  out  quarter  inch  thick, 
then  cut  in  pieces  two  inches  square  and  put  a teaspoon  of  the  above 
preparation  in  center  of  each  piece,  pull  over  the  edges,  allowing 
them  to  lap  a little  in  center,  flatten  with  the  hand  and  turn  them 
over,  folded  part  down.  Then  roll  out  with  rolling  pin  until  the 
currants,  peel,  etc.,  break  through.  Place  on  baking  pans,  make  a 
few  cuts  across  top  with  a knife,  wash  with  milk,  or  milk  and  egg, 
dust  with  sugar  and  bake  nice  brown  in  hot  oven.  For  the  real 
English  Banbury  Cake^  add  to  above  ingredients  fresh  butter  enough 
to  form  the  whole  into  nice  paste.  Take  the  best  Puff  Paste,  roll 
out  and  cut  as  above  and  place  a piece  of  the  mixture  in  center  of 
each ; take  up  two  corners,  diagonally  opposite,  press  together,  and 
then  with  palm  of  hand  press  them  down  flat.  This  makes  the 
pieces  oval  in  shape  and  leaves  two  ends  which  are  folded  togethei 
at  liberty  to  rise ; wash  the  part  that  is  not  folded  with  water  and 
sprinkle  with  powdered  sugar.  Bake  in  slow  oven. 

Custard  Tarts. — Prepare  shells  as  in  Fanchonettes ; remove 
bread,  and  place  in  each  a teaspoon  red  currant,  or  any  jelly  or  jam ; 
cover  this  with  a custard  made  as  follows  : Beat  four  eggs,  add  three- 
fourths  pint  milk,  two  tablespoons  butter,  creamed,  four  tablespoons 
sugar  and  three  dessertspoons  flour,  mixed  smooth  with  water. 
Heat  to  boiling  point,  or  Until  it  thickens,  and  flavor  as  liked.  Must 
be  cooled  before  .pouring  over  the  jelly ; cover  the  tarts  with  merin- 
gue, raised  in  cone-like  form,  sprinkling  over  a little  pinch  sugar. 
.Or  this  custard  may  be  simply  stirred  together,  and  poured  into 
shells  before  baking  them,  and  bake  twenty  minutes,  thus' cooking 
all  together,  omitting  jelly  at  bottom,  but  c(>vering  with  the  merin- 
gue. For  Rice  Tarts.,  cook  two  bay  leaves  or  rind  of  half  a lemon 
in  pint  milk ; strain,  add  three  ounces  ground  rice,  or  rice  flour, 
cook  fifteen  minutes,  take  off  fire,  and  add  a well-beaten  mixture  of 


PASTRY. 


•635 


three  tablespoons  butter,  half  cup  sugar  and  five  or  six  eggs  ; when 
cold,  fill  some  paste-lined  patty-pans  with  it,  strew  over  a few  dried 
currants  and  bake  twenty-five  minutes  in  moderate  oven.  For  Maca- 
roon Tarts,  line  patty-pans  with  paste  and  make  a custard  of  a 
quarter  pint  cream,  four  yolks  of  eggs,  one  tablespoon  flour,  four 
of  sugar,  three  macaroons,  crumbled,  grated  peel  of  one  lemon,  a 
little  citron  cut  fine  and  little  orange  flower  water.  Heat  the  other 
ingredients,  add  the  flour,  mixed  smoothly  with  a little  water,  boil 
sufficient  to  cook  the  flour,  then  take  from  fire  a fetv  minutes  and 
stir  in  the  beaten  yolks  of  eggs,  and  set  in  pan  of  hot  water  till  eggs 
seem  done.  After  putting  in  patty-pans,  bake  until  paste  is  done, 
then  ornament  tops  with  chopped  almonds  or  cover  with  meringue, 
or  not,  as  liked.  For  Jelly  Tarts,  fill  Patty  Shells  with  jelly  and 
serve  either  with  or  without  the  meringue. 

Gutter  Tarts. — Line  sm.all  patty-pans  with  rich  paste  and  fill 
with  red  or  black  currants,  raspberries  or  any  fruit  at  hand,  heaping 
high  in  center ; add  a little  powdered  sugar  to  each,  wet  edge  of  paste 
with  water,  and  put  on  a top  crust  about  an  eighth  of  inch  thick  ; 
after  trimming  the  edges,  with  the  thumb  press  the  paste  around  the 
base  of  the  fruit,  about  half  an  inch  from  edge  of  patty-pan,  press- 
ing hard  enough  to  all  but  break  the  paste  and  so  as  to  push  the 
fruit  up  in  a cone  in  center ; v/ash  them  with  water  and  bake.  The 
object  of  pressing  the  paste  so  thin  around  base  of  fruit,  is  that  the 
juice  may  break  through  the  paste  in  baking  and  run  around  the 
groove  or  gutter  formed  by  pressing  the  paste,  which  has  a rich  and 
pretty  effect  when  baked,  and  gives  the  tarts  their  name. 

Lemon  Tarts. — Mix  juice  and  grated  rind  of  one  lemon  with 
cup  sugar  and  beaten  yolk  of  an  egg.  Add  half  cup  cold  water  into 
v/hich  has  been  stirred  a heaping  teaspoon  corn-starch.  Set  pan  in 
boiling  water  and  cook  till  it  becomes  a clear  jelly.  If  wanted  richer 
add  to  above,  the  juice  and  rind  of  another  lemon,  three  more  yolks 
of  eggs,  teaspoon  butter  and  one  ihore  of  corn-starch.  , Let  cool  and 
fill  Patty  Shells  with  the  mixture  covering  with  meringue.  Or  for 
Lemon  Butter,  put  four  rounded  tablespoons  soft  butter,  two  cups 
sugar  and  six  eggs  well  beaten  together  in  a custard  kettle,  stir  al- 
most constantly,  add  juice  of  three  lemons  and  grated  rind  of  two, 
and  cook  to  consistency  of  honey.  Pack  in  jars  to  use  as  wanted, 
and  it  will  keep  two  or  three  months.-  To  use,  fill  in  any  baked 
tart-shells  and  put  in  oven  till  mixture  is  hot.  Or  line  patty-pans 
with  the  Sweet  Paste,  fill  two-thirds  full  with  the  mixture  adding  a 
few  poucided  almonds,  candied  orange  or  lemon  peel  or  grated  Maca- 
roons n liked,  and  bake  in  moderate  oven  about  fifteen  minutes.  In 
either  case  they  may  be  covered  with  a meringue  when  baked,  and 
returned  to  oven  and  delicately  browned.  For  Orange  iZar^5,make 
as  Lemon  Butter  using  only  third  as  much  sugar  and  grated  rind 
^nd  juiee  of  one  large  orange,  instead  of  the  lemons.  Cook  till  like 


636. 


PASTRY. 


melted  cheese,  then  take  off  fire  and  beat  a minute  or  two  with  an 
egg-beater ; or  a mixed  preparation  is  as  follows ; cup  and  a half 
sugar,  grated  rind  and  juice  of  two  large  oranges,  juice  of  two  lem- 
ons, two  tablespoons  butter,  three  yolks  and  one  whole  egg  added 
last.  Use  as  in  either  way  in  Jjemon  Tarts,  or  spread^  cold  between 
layers  of  cake.  In  baking  the  tarts,  it  is  sometimes  necessary  to 
cover  with  paper  or  place  a pan  above  them  on  upper  grate. 

Prune  Tarts. — Scald  prunes,  remove  stones,  take  out  kernels 
and  put  latter  into  a little  cranberry  juice  with  the  prunes  and  sugar ; 
simmer  till  tender,  and  when  cold  fill  any  shells. 

Raisin  Tarts. — Heaping  coffee-cup  stoned  and  chopped  raisins, 
two  small  cups  powdered  sugar,  grated  rind  and  juice  of  two  lemons. 
Put  all  together  in  bowl  and  set  in  tea-kettle  till  sugar  is  dissolved ; 
when  cool  fill  Patty  Shells. 

Raspberry  Tarts. — Prepare  Cut  Shells,  and  glaze  with  sugar 
boiled  till  it  threads,  sprinkling  pounded  loaf  sugar  over  also.  Boil 
more  sugar,  adding  very  little  water,  and  the  sugar  left  from  glaze 
until  it  almost  candies,  and  mash  and  stir  in  about  a third  of  the 
raspberries  to  be  used ; skim,  cook  five  or  ten  minutes,  remove  from 
fire  and  let  syrup  cool.  Fill  the  shells  with  fresh  raspberries,  cover 
with  the  cool  syrup  and  serve.  Strawberry  or  Currant  Tarts  made 
same.  Or  when  the  shells  are  nearly  or  quite  done  take  from  oven 
and  ice,  returning 'to  oven  a moment  or  two  to  set  the  icing  before 
filling.  Whipped  cream  may  be  served  over  fruit  instead  of  syrup. 

Strawberry  Vol-au-Yent. — Make  a Vol-au-Vent  case  as  illus- 
trated in  Tart  Shells  only  not  quite  so  large  as  one  for  Chicken  or 
Oyster  Fricassee.  When  nearly  done,  use  Pastry  Frosting  as  directed. 
When  done,  remove  the  interior,  or  soft  crumb,  and,  at  the  moment 
of  serving,  fill  it  with  strawberries,  which  should  be  nicely  stemmed 
and  sweetened  Place  a few  spoonfuls  of  whipped  cream  on  the  top 
and  serve.  Or  the  paste  may  be  rolled  to  about  one  and  a half  inches 
thick,  and  cut  out  with  a large  fluted  cutter;  bake  in  quick  oven, 
and  brush  as  above,  or  with  Pastry  Glaze.  Always  detach  the  cover, 
made  as  directed  in  Tart  Shells,  as  soon  as  baked,  and  when  care- 
fully removing  the  crumb,  if  the  edges  of  Vol-au-Vent  look  thin  in 
places,  cover  with  small  flakes  from  inside,  put  on  with  white  of  an 
egg.  This  precaution  is  necessary  to  prevent  the  fruit  (or  fricassee) 
from  bursting  the  case.  If  stewed  fruit  is  used,  after  cooking  it,  boil 
the  syrup  till  quite  thick  and  add  to  fruit;  fill  the  Vol-au-Vent 
with  this,  sprinkle  over  a little  powdered  sugar  and  return  to  oven 
to  glaze,  or  use  the  hot  salamander.  Any  fruit  may  be  used. 

Cannelons. — Roll  Puff  Paste  very  thin,  and  cut  into  pieces  of 
equal  size,  about  two  inches  wide  and  eight  long ; place  upon  each 
piece  a spoonful  of  jam,  wet  edges  with  white  of  egg,  and  fold  paste 


PASTRY. 


637 


over  tynce\  slightly  press  edges  together,  that  jam  may  not  escape 
in  frying,  and  when  all  are  prepared,  fry  in  smoking  lard  until  a nice 
brown,  setting  in  oven  a few  minutes,  that  the  paste  may  be  thor- 
oughly done.  Dish  on  a napkin,  sprinkle  sifted  sugar  over  and 
serve.  Very  delicious  made  with  fresh  instead  of  preserved  fruit, 
such  as  strawberries,  raspberries,  or  currants ; they  should  be  laid 
in  the  paste,  plenty  of  granulated  sugar  sprinkled  over,  folded  and 
fried  as  above.  Or  make  a stiff  paste  with  a quarter  pound  flour, 
half  as  much  white  sugar,  half  cup  melted  butter 
and  tablespoon  grated  lemon  peel  or  essence  lem- 
on ; roll  rather  thin ; make  little  tubes  of  stiff 
paper,  about  three  inches  long  by  one  in  diameter, 
butter  the  outside  well  and  wrap  each  in  some  of  the  paste,  close 
neatly  on  one  side,  and  bake  a few  minutes  in  a quick  oven ; when 
done  and  cooled  a little,  take  out  the  card  and  fill  with  a jelly  or 
marmalade,  smoothing  over  open  ends  with  knife  dipped  in  water. 

Cheese-cakes. — Cook  a cup  each  sweet  and  sour  milk  in  custard 
kettle  until  it  curds  ; rub  the  curd  through  sieve  and  add  to  it  a cup 
sugar  beaten  with  yolks  of  four  eggs,  a pinch  of  salt  and  the  juice 
and  grated  rind  of  a lemon,  and  a tablespoon  melted  butter  is  some- 
times added.  Line  patty-pans  with  Puff  Paste  rolled  very  thin,  put 
tablespoon  of  above  mixture  in  each  and  bake  fifteen  or  twenty  min- 
utes in  moderate  oven.  Let  cool  in  the  pans  before  removing.  Nice 
for  dessert,  luncheon  or  supper. 

Plum  Cobbler. — Take  quart  flour,  four  tablespoons  melted  lard, 
half  teaspoon  salt,  two  teaspoons  baking  powder- ; mix  as  for  bis- 
cuit, with  either  sweet  milk  or  water,  roll  thin,  and  line  a pudding 
dish,  about  two  inches  deep,  or  dripping-pan,  nine  by'eighteen  inches  ; 
mix  three  tablespoons  flour  and  two  of  sugar  together,  and  sprinkle 
over  crust;  then  pour  in  three  pints  canned  damson  plums,  and 
sprinkle  over  them  one  coffee-cup  sugar  ; wet  edges  with  a little  flour 
and  water  mixed,  put  on  upper  crust,  press  edges  together,  make  twG 
openings  by  cutting  two  incisions  at  right  angles  an  inch  in  length., 
and  bake  in  quick  oven  half  an  hour.  Any  kind  of  fresh  or  canned 
fruit,  can  be  used  same  way,  adding  with  fresh  fruit,  cold  water  to 
half  fill  the  dish,  after  fruit  is  put  in.  A Quaker  Paste  may  be  used, 
rolling  twice  as  thick  as  for  ordinary  pies,  and  some  prefer  to  use 
only  an  upper  crust,  and  for  Peach  Cobbler  pare  and  halve  freestones, 
but  only  pare  and  gash  clings,  leaving  in  the  stones,  and  sweeten  if 
necessary.  For  Apple  Cobbler,  and  quarter  moderately  tart 
apples  and  finish  as  above.  For  Berry  Cobbler,  line  the  deep  dish 
with  a Graham  Paste,  rolled  as  above,  fill  with  any  berries,  sweeten, 
cover  with  crust  and  bake.  Some  prick  upper  crust  as  well  as  cut 
the  slits  as  in  Plum  Cobbler.  Use  no  water  in  either  berry  cobbler 
or  Cherry  Cobbler  which  is  made  as  the  former. 


638 


■ PASTRY. 


FancJionettes. — Line  patty-pans  with  a paste,  place  a piece  of 
bread  in  each  and  bake  in  a cool  oven ; when  baked,  remove  bread 
and  place  an  almond  macaroon  in  each  and  cover  the  macaroon  with 
half  quince  and  half  red  currant  jelly.  Have  paper  cone,  (same  as 
used  in  Ornamental  Icing)  filled  with  meringue  and  drop  a spoonful 
in  center  on  jelly ; then  from  the  paper  cone  drop  a small  cone-shaped 
pile  of  meringue  on  the  center  of  what  is  already  on  the  jelly ; then 
drop  five  or  six  around  it.  This  will  give  a circle  of  cones  with  orie 
in  center;  the  cones  will  not  look  well  if  too  small:  the}^  should  be 
as  large  as  a twenty-five  cent  piece  and  at  least  one  inch  in  height ; 
put  them  in  oven  just  to  color.  When  cold  drop  just  a little  red 
currant  jelly  on  the  point  of  each  cone.  This  is  one  of  the  prettiest 
of  fancy  pastry  dishes,  and  is  an  elegant  ornament. 

Almond  Flowers.— Puff  Paste  out  quarter  inch  thick,  and 
with  a round  fluted  cutter,  two  and  a half  or  three  inches  in  diameter, 
cut  out  the  number  of  pieces  required.  Work  rest  of  paste  up  again, 
roll  it  out,  and  with  a smaller  gutter  cut  out  pieces  an  inch  in  diam- , 
et®r.  Brush  larger  pieces  over  with  white  of  an  egg,  and  place  one 
of  the  smaller  pieces  on  each.  Blanch  and  cut  almonds  into  strips 
lengthwise ; press  them  slanting  into  paste  closely  around  smaller 
circles,  sift  over  powdered  sugar  and  bake  twenty  minutes.  Garnish 
between  the  almonds  with  strips  of  apple  jelly,  and  place  in  center 
of  top  a little  strawberry  jam ; pile  high  on  dish  and  serve.  To  make 
Almond  Tablets.,  roll  Puff  Paste  very  thin  and  cut  with  the  pastry 
jagger  into  strips  three  inches  and  a half  long,  and  an  inch  and  a 
half  wide.  Spread  half  of  them  with  a thin  filmy  layer  of  jam  or 
marmalade,  (not  jelly)  lay  on  each  a strip  without  jam  and  bake  in 
quick  oven.  When  well  risen  and  brown  take  out,  brush  with  Pastry 
Frosting  as  directed,  sprinkle  chopped  almonds  over  and  return  to 
oven  till  frosting  is  well  set,  and  almonds  just  colored.  Serve  hot 
or  cold  on  napkin,  piled  log-cabin  fashion. 

Rissolettes. — Roll  out  very  thin,  about  as  thick  as  a fifty-cent 
piece,  any  trimmings  of  Puff  Paste ; put  about  half  tablespoon  mar- 
malade or  jam  on  it,  in  places  about  an  inch  apart,  wet  lightly  round 
each,  and  place  a piece  of  paste  over  all ; take  a small  round  cutter 
an  inch  and  a half  in  diameter  and  press  round  the  part  where  the 
marmalade  or  jam  is  with  the  thick  part  of  the  cutter;  cut  them  out 
with  a cutter  a size  larger,  lay  on  baking  tin,  brush  over  with  white 
of  egg ; add  the  inch  circles  as  in  Almond  Flowers  and  finish  in 
same  way,  omitting  the  almonds.  Serve  in  pyramidal  form. 

Preserve  Sandwiches. — Roll  Puff  Paste  out  thin  and  place  in  a 
square  baking  pan,  cut  to  fit,  and  spread  with  peach,  green-gage  or 
any  preserve  ; place  over  this  another  thin  layer  of  paste,  press  edges 
well  together  and  lightly  mark  the  top  crosswise  in  lines  one  inch 
apart,  and  lengthwise  two  inches  apart,  to  show  where  to  cut  wh®a 


PASTRY. 


639 


Preserve  Sandwiches. 


done.  Bake  half  an  hour  and  just  before  done  use  Pastry 
Frosting  as  directed  and  brown  in  oven. 
When  cold,  cut  off  in  the  two-inch  lengths, 
arrange  in  a circle  overlapping  each  other, 
as  illustrated  and  serve  with  whipped  cream 
in  center.  F or  Raspberry  Sandwiches^  take  a 
piece  of  Puff  Paste,  roll  it  out  again  a quarter 
inch  thick  and  fold  it  over  evenly  like  a sheet  of  paper.  Roll  this 
out  an  eighth  of  an  inch  in  thickness  and  about  twelve  inches  in 
width ; then  roll  up  in  a roll,  the  same  as  a sheet  of  paper,  two  inches 
or  two  and  a half  inches,  in  diameter ; when  rolled  up  wet  the  edge 
so  that  it  mil  not  unfold ; press  it  flat  until  reduced  to  about  three- 
fourths  of  an  inch  in  thickness ; with  a sharp  knife  cut  off  slices  a 
quarter  inch  thick,  lay  these  on  the  pan,  cut  part  down,  giving  them 
room  to  rise,  and  bake  them.  When  done  frost  as  above,  return  to 
oven  or  hold  hot  salamander  over  them ; then  spread  on  raspberry  jam 
or  jelly,  and  stick  two  together,  making  a pretty  and  delicious  dish. 


Orange  Short-cake. — One  quart  flour,  two  tablespoons  butter, 
two  teaspoons  baking  powder  thoroughly  mixed  with  the  flour ; mix 
with  cold  water,  not  very  stiff,  work  as  little  as  possible,  bake,  split 
open,  and  lay  sliced  oranges  between ; cut  in  squares  and  serve  with 
pudding  sauce.  Berries  may  be  used  instead  of  oranges. 


Peach  Short-cake. — Bake  three  sheets  of  sponge-cake  as  for 
jelly  cake ; cut  peaches  in  thin  slices  and  sprinkle  with  sugar  a few 
minutes  before  using,  keeping  closely  covered ; prepare  cream  by 
whipping,  sweetening  and  adding  flavor  of  vanilla  if  desired ; put 
layers  of  peaches  between  the  sheets  of  cake,  and  also  on  top,  and 
pour  the  cream  over  each  layer  and  over  the  top.  Strawberry  and 
Raspberry  Short-cake  made  same  way.  Or,  instead  of  the  whipped 
cream,  spread  a meringue  over  each  layer  of  fruit,  allowing  white  of 
one  egg  for  each  layer. 


Strawberry  Short-cake. — Two  heaping  teaspoons  baking  pov/der 
sifted  into  one  quart  flour,  scant  half  cup  butter,  two  tablespoons 
sugar,  salt,  scant  pint  cold  sweet  milk,  or  water,  to  make  a soft  dough ; 
roll  out  almost  as  thin  as  pie  crust,  place  one  layer  in  baking  pan, 
and  spread  with  very  little  butter,  upon  which  sprinkle  some  flour, 
then  add  another  layer  of  crust  and  spread  as  before,  and  so  on  un- 
til crust  is  all  used.  This  makes  four  layers  in  pan  fourteen  inches 
by  seven.  Bake  about  fifteen  minutes  in  quick  oven,  turn  out  up- 
side down,  take  off  top  layer  (the  bottom  when  baking),  place  on  a 
dish,  spread  plentifully  with  strawberries,  not  mashed,  previously 
sweetened  with  pulverized  sugar,  place  layer  upon  layer,  treating 
each  in  same  way,  put  cake  in  oven  a few  minutes,  and  serve 
warm  with  sugar  and  cream.  The  secret  of  having  light  dough  is 
to  handle  it  as  little  and  mix  it  as  quickly  as  possible.  Short-cake 


640 


PASTRY. 


is  delicious  covered  with  whipped  cream  or  a meringue.  For  Sara- 
toga  Short-cake^  which  is  very  elegant,  bake  sponge-cake  in  three  or 
four  layers,  or  cut  the  sheet  obtained  from  baker  to  fit  the  platter, 
and  build  by  placing  on  each  layer  or  sheet,  a layer  of  strawberries 
prepared  as  above,  and  covering  with  custard,  previously  made  as 
follows  : Heat  pint  milk  with  half  cup  sugar  to  almost  boiling,  then 
stir  in  well-beaten  yolks  of  three  eggs,  and  stir  until  it  begins  to 
thicken ; let  cool  and  flavor  with  vanilla  or  almond  extract.  May 
be  handsomely  finished  by  placing  layer  of  berries  on  top,  covered 
with  a nleringue  of  the  whites  of  eggs  ; or  leave  off  the  berries  and 
Vv^hip  into  the  meringue  enough  bright  jelly  to  color  nicely  and  heap 
on  top.  Or,  if  wanted  served  individually,  line  paper  cases  with 
strips  of  sponge-cake  cut  to  fit  the  sides,  then  fit  in  a bottom  piece 
jind  fill  with  the  following  preparation.  Mash 
(j[uart  strawberries  with  two  cups  sugar  and  rub 
through  sieve ; dissolve  one  and  a half  ounces  gel- 
atine in  a cup  milk,  set  where  it  will  warm  gradu-  Saratoga  shor^cake. 
ally ; whip  three  pints  thick  sweet  cream,  to  a froth,  then  whip  in 
dissolved  gelatine,  add  strawberry  pulp,  and  when  partially  stiffened 
fill  the  prepared  cases,  cover  each  with  a layer  of  strawberries,  care- 
fully setting  each  berry  on  end,  and  sprinkle  powdered  sugar  over. 
Put  away  in  cool  place  until  ready  to  serve.  The  above  quantity 
will  fill  fifty  cases,  and  may  be  served  in  Patty  Shells  or  Vol-au- vents 
instead  of  the  cases,  and  with  much  less  trouble.  The  flavor  ot 
strawberries  is  much  improved  by  mixing  with  each  quart  berries 
before  sprinkling  with  sugar,  two  or  three  oranges,  cut  into  bits 
about  the  size  of  berries,  or  simply  adding  the  prange  juice. 

Apple  Short-  Cake. — Make  a baking-powder  crust  as  in  straw- 
berry short-cake.  Put  one  layer  in  pan,  then  cover  with  sliced  tart 
apples,  then  another  layer  of  crust,  then  apples,  and  so  on  covering 
with  layer  of  crust ; bake  three-quarters  of  an  hour  and  serve  with 
cream  and  sugar. 


PICKLES. 


641 


PICKLES. 


In  making  pickles  use  none  but  the  best  cider  vinegar,  and  boil 
in  porcelain  kettle — never  in  metal.  A lump  of  alum  size  of  small 
nutmeg,  to  gallon  of  cucumbers,  dissolved  and  added  to  the  vinegar 
when  scalding  the  pickles  the  first  time,  renders  them  crisp  and  ten- 
der, but  too  much  is  injurious.  Keep  in  a dry,  cool  cellar,  in  glass 
or  stone  jars;  if  in  latter  look  at  them  frequently  and  remove  all 
soft  ones ; if  white  specks  appear  in  vinegar,  drain  off  and  scald, 
adding  a liberal  handful  sugar  to  each  gallon,  and  pour  again  over 
pickles ; bits  of  horse-radish  and  a few  cloves  assist  in  preserving 
the  life  of  vinegar.  If  put  away  in  large  stone  jars,  invert  a saucer 
over  top  of  pickles,  to  keep  them  well  under  the  vinegar.  The  nicest 
way  to  put  up  pickles  of  all  kinds  is  in  bottles  or  in  self-sealing  glass 
cans,  sealing  while  hot,  and  keeping  in  a cool,  dark  place.  When 
porcelain-lined  tops  are  not  used  always  grease  inside  of  can  lids,  as 
it  prevents  the  moisture  from  adhering  to,  and  rusting  them.  For 
the  bottles  take  old  pickle  bottles  with  corks,  or  wide-mouthed  bot- 
tles without  covers.  Have  ready  cloth  covers  cut  round  to  fit  over 
mouth  of  bottle,  sealing-wax  and  strips  of  muslin  as  wide  as  tape 
for  tying.  Many  think  that  mustard  seed  improves  pickles,  espec- 
ially Chopped,  Florida  and  Mangoes,  but  use  it,  as  well  as  horse- 
radish and  cloves,  sparingly.  For  Pickles  in  Brine^  never  put  them 
in  any  thing  that  has  held  any  kind  of  grease,  but  use  an  oaken  tub 
or  cask,  keep  them  well  under,  and  have  more  salt  than  will  dissolve, 
so  that  there  will  always  be  plenty  at  bottom  of  cask,  and  never  let 
them  freeze.  The  brine  should  be  strong  enough  to  bear  an  egg ; 
make  it  in  proportion  of  a heaping  pint  of  coarse  salt  to  a gallon  of 
41 


642 


PICKLES-. 


water.  It  is  better  to  err  in  using  too  much  salt,  as  this  may  be 
corrected  by  letting  pickles  soak  longer  in  water  when  wanted,  add- 
ing weak  vinegar  at  first,  then  draining  and  adding  strong  vinegar ; 
but  if  not  sufficiently  salted  the  pickles  will  be  insipid.  In  making 
any  pickles  by  first  placing  in  salt  overnight  or  longer,  use  coarse 
salt,  and  test  by  tasting  pickles  before  putting  on  vinegar,  as  they 
should  be  of  a pleasant  saltness ; if  not  salt  enough,  add  more  salt 
and  allow  them  to  stand  until  they  have  acquired  the  proper  flavor ; 
if  too  salt,  cover  with  weak  vinegar,  and  let  stand  for  two  or  three 
days,  drain,  adding  strong  vinegar,  either  hot  or  cold  according  to 
recipes,  and  finish  as  directed.  In  scalding  cucumber  pickles,  to 
green  them,  some  use  cabbage  or  grape  leaves,  covering  bottom,  sides 
and  top  of  kettle.  A medium  spicing  for  a quart  of  pickles  is  a 
level  teaspooneach  pepper-corns,  (whole  black  peppers),  celery  seed 
and  allspice,  tablespoon  broken  stick  cinnamon,  half  teaspoon  cloves, 
mustard  seed,  and  grated  horse-radish,  and  apiece  of  ginger  root,  an 
inch  long.  If  cayenne  pepper  is  used  instead  of  whole  peppers,  an 
eighth  of  a teaspoon  is  enough.  A better  substitute  for  pepper-corns 
is  garden-peppers  cut  in  rings,  in  proportion  of  two  rings  of  green 
and  one  of  red  without  seeds,  or  a level  teaspoon,  when  finely 
chopped,  to  a quart  of  pickles.  These  proportions  may  be  increased 
or  decreased  to  suit  the  taste,  taking  care  not  to  put  in  so  much  of 
any  one  as  to  make  its  flavor  predominate.  Ginger  is  the  most 
wholesome  of  the  spices.  Cloves  are  the  strongest,  mace  next,  then 
allspice  and  cinnamon,  and,  of  course,  less  of  the  stronger  should 
be  used.  Pickles  are  not  famous  for  wholesome  qualities,  even  when 
made  with  the  greatest  care,  but  if  they  must  be  eaten,  it  is  best  to 
make  them  at  home.  Those  sold  in  market  are  often  colored  a beau- 
tiful green  with  sulphate  of  copper,  which  is  a deadly  poison,  or  are 
cooked  in  brass  or  copper  vessels,  which  produces  the  same  result 
in  an  indirect  way.  Scalding  or  parboiling  articles  to  be  pickled 
makes  them  absorb  the  vinegar  more  easily,  but  does  not  add  to 
their  crispness.  Before  putting  them  in  vinegar,  after  parboiling, 
they  should  be  cold  and  perfectly  dry.  Always  use  strong  vinegar, 
or  the  pickles  will  be  insipid,  and  it  should  be  scalding  hot  when 
poured  on,  as  raw  vinegar  becomes  ropy  and  does  not  keep  well.  As 
heating  weakens  it,  vinegar  for  pickles  should  be  very  strong.,  and 
should  only  be  brought  to  boiling  pointy  and  immediately  on 

pickles.  Keep  pickles  from  the  air,  and  when  put  away  in  ston& 


PICKLES. 


643 


jars,  if  hot  vinegar  is  used,  cover^  hut  do  not  tie  down  closely  till 
cold*,  a good  covering  is  first  a cloth,  then  an  oil-cloth  cover  tied 
over  jar;  always  see  that  the  vinegar  is  at  least  two  inches  over  top 
of  the  pickles.  A dry  wooden  spoon  or  ladle  should  he  used  in 
handling  pickles,  and  is  the  only  kind  that  should  touch  pickles  in 
jars.  If  the  vinegar  loses  its  strength  it  should  be  replaced  by  fresh, 
poured  over  scalding  hot.  Some  keep  pickles  from  molding  by  plac- 
ing horse-radish  or  grape  leaves  over  them ; this  also  gives  a nice 
flavor.  Clove  of  Garlic^  given  in  recipes,  is  a piece  size  of  small  bean. 


Piclded  Apples. — Procure  green  apples  size  of  walnuts  and 
cook  till  tender  over  slow  fire  in  pan  with  thick  layer  of  vine  leaves 
on  bottom.  Pare  with  sharp  knife,  put  in  same  water  first  cooked 
in,  cover  closely  and  leave  till  a nice  green ; drain  in  colander  till 
cold,  put  in  jars  with  some  mace  and  a clove  or  two  of  garlic,  accord- 
ing to  quantity  apples,  cover  with  vinegar  and  tie  down  as  directed. 

Pickled  Artichokes. — Rub  off  outer  skin  with  a coarse  towel, 
and  lay  in  saltwater  for  a day,  drain  and  pour  over  them  cold  spiced 
vinegar,  adding  a teaspoon  horse-radish  to  each  jar.  Or  boil  the  ar- 
tichokes in  strong  salt  and  water  two  or  three  minutes,  drain  on  a 
hair  sieve  and  when  cold,  place  in  jars.  Boil  as  much  vinegar  as  will 
cover  them  with  a blade  or  two  of  mace,  some  root  ginger,  and  a 
nutmeg  grated  fine.  Pour  it  over  hot,  seal  and  put  away  for  use. 

Pickled  Barherries. — Leave  the  berries  on  stems,  lay  in  stone 
jar  and  fill  with  cold  vinegar.  Good  pickles,  and  nice  for  garnishing 

Pickled  Beans. — Pick  green  beans  of  best  variety  when  young 
and  tender,  string,  and  place  in  kettle  to  boil,  with  salt  to  taste,  until 
they  can  be  pierced  with  a fork ; drain  through  colander,  put  in  stone 
jar,  sprinkle  with  cayenne  pepper,  and  cover  with  strong  cider  vine- 
gar ; sugar  may  be  added  if  desired.  Or  gather  young  beans  and 
put  in  strong  brine  of  salt  and  water ; when  turning  yellow,  which 
w^ill  be  in  a day  or  two,  take  out  and  wipe  dry.  Boil  vinegar,  adding 
two  ounces  pepper  and  one  ounce  each  ginger  and  mace  to  each 
quart,  and  pour  over  the  beans.  A small  bit'  of  alum,  or  teaspoon 
soda  will  bring  back  the  color.  Cover  to  keep  in  steam,  reboil  vine- 
g£7r  next  day  and  pour  over  hot  as  before.  Or  string,  wash  and  cook 
till  tender,  take  off,  cool,  and  salt  as  if  to  use  fresh ; pack  away  in  a 
stone  jar  or  nice  tub,  add  a weight,  then  prepare  a weak  brine  and 
pour  over ; cover,  and  in  a few  weeks  they  will  be  sour. 

Pickled  Beets. — Select  fine  red  beets  and  be  careful  to  clean 
withou'*-  bruising  the  skin,  or  they  will  lose  much  of  their  color  and 


644 


PICKLES. 


sweetness  in  cooking.  Boil  two  hours  and  when  cold  rub  off  skin 
and  place  whole  in  jar,  (some  slice  them  but  they  are  not  as  fresh 
when  served)  ; cover  with  vinegar,  first  boiled  with  spices  in  propor- 
tion of  half  an  ounce  each  cloves,  pepper-corns,  mace  and  ginger  to 
each  pint,  adding  when  cold  another  pint;  cover  closely  and  they 
will  be  ready  for  use  next  day,  when  they  can  be  sliced  as  wanted. 
Or  take  a half  cup  sugar  to  each  pint  vinegar,  flavoring  to  taste  with 
cinnamon  and  cloves,  boil  and  pour  over  beets  and  repeat  this  sev- 
eral days.  Before  serving  cut  the  slices  into  stars,  leaves  or  any 
shapes  fancied,  and  a very  ornamental  dish  results.  'If  white  beets 
are  pickled  separately,  the  slices  in  same  shapes  are  a nice  addition, 
alternated  with  the  red. 

Pickled  Cabbage. — Shave  firm  white  cabbage  into  wooden  or 
earthen  vessel,  sprinkling  in  handful  salt  to  each  cabbage,  and  let 
stand  overnight ; then  drain  off  brine,  pressing  cabbage  well  and 

Eack  in  earthen  jars  in  layers  with  half  cup  mustard  seed  to  each 
ead,  sprinkled  through ; fill  up  with  cold  vinegar,  cover  closely 
and  keep  in  cool  dark  place.  Or  quarter  small  solid  heads,  and 
boil  in  weak  salt  water  until  they  can  be  pierced  through  with 
a straw ; then  lay  on  dishes  and  put  in  sun  an  hour  or  two  to  drain 
and  bleach.  Put  in  jar,  pour  over  enough  weak  vinegar  to  cover 
with  a teaspoon  tumeric  stirred  in,  and  let  stand  one  week.  Pour 
off  and  fill  jar  with  best  cider  vinegar,  in  which  is  mixed  one  cup 
ground  mustard,  half  cup  mustard  seed,  and  a little  sugar;  put  in 
also  a few  spices  of  different  kinds  in  a little  bag.  Cover  closely ; 
ready  for  use  in  a few  days  and  will  come  out  a bright  yellow. 
Pickled  Caulidower  or  Onions  prepared  same  way.  For  Pickled 
Red  Cabbage^  procure  nice  heads  of  red  or  purple  cabbage,  pull  off 
loose  leaves,  slice  fine,  pack  in  a stone  jar,  sprihkle  through 
well  with  salt  and  let  stand  twenty-four  hours.  Prepare  vinegar  as 
follows  : To  a gallon,  add  an  ounce  each  mace  and  pepper  corns, 
and  a little  mustard  seed.  Drain  cabbage,  put  back  in  jar,  scald 
vinegar  and  spices,  and  pour  over,  repeating  the  scalding  two  or 
three  times,  and  cover  jar  very  tight.  When  done,  the  cabbage  will 
be  a handsome  red  color,  very  ornamental.  It  will  be  fit  for  use  in 
a "week  or  two,  if  kept  very  long  the  cabbage  is  liable  to  get  soft  and 
discolored.  For  this  reason  only  a small  quantity  should  be  made 
at  a time.  White  cabbage  may  be  pickled  same.  Some  spice 
the  vinegar  with  three  pieces  root  ginger,  a pod  red  pepper, 
and  quarter  ounce  cloves  to  each  quart,  adding  also  an  onion 
if  liked.  A little  grated  horse-radish  and  celery  seed  may  be 
mixed  with  the  cabbage  ’when  put  back  in  jar  if  desired.  Or 
With  Peppers.,  chop  fine  two -thirds  firm  red  cabbage  and  one- 
third  green  peppers,  removing  seeds  of  latter.  Pour  a weak 
brine  over  one  gallon  of  the  mixture,  let  stand  twenty-four  hours, 
drain  well  and  add  tablespoon  each  whole  cloves  and  ground  cinna- 
mon, half  cup  black  mustard  seed  and  a few  pepper-corns.  Mix  well, 


TICKLES. 


645 


put  in  stone  jar  and  pour  over  boiling  vinegar  to  cover,  to  which  a 
little  sugar  may  have  been  added,  if  wished.  Some  do  not  soak  in 
the  brine,  but  add  two  tablespoons  of  salt  with  the  spices.  Keep  in 
cool  place ; pieces  of  cauliflower  added  assume  a fine  color.  For 
Imitation  Pickles^  chop  fine  white  cabbage  and  cold  boiled  beets  ; to 
one  quart  each,  take  cup  each  sugar  and  grated  horse-radish,  table- 
spoon salt  and  teaspoon  black  pepper ; cover  with  cold  vinegar  and 
tie  up  closely.  Some  add  a pinch  ca^^enne  and  any  spices  wished. 
For  Rhine  Pickles^  take  off  the  large  outside  leaves  of  a head  of 
white  cabbage ; slice  the  inside  very  fine  and  wrap  up  in  the  large 
leaves,  tying  securely  with  twine.  Boil  till  tender,  remove  leaves 
and  drain  cabbage  very  dry ; boil  quart  vinegar  with  cup  sugar,  a 
few  pepper-corns  and  allspice  fifteen  minutes;  place  cabbage  in  jar, 
pour  hot  vinegar  over  it,  and  put  on  a weight  to  keep  it  well  under. 

Pickled  Carrots small  carrots,  and  rub  and  wash  off  the 
skin;  parboil  in  salted  water,  drain,  and  put  in  jar.  Boil  vinegar 
enough  to  cover,  and  let  stand  twenty-four  hours.  Then  drain  off 
vinegar  and  boil  it  again.  Put  one  bay  leaf  and  three  or  four  cloves 
with  carrots,  add  a little  salt  to  the  boiling  vinegar,  pour  over  car- 
rots again  and  cover  as  in  general  directions.  These  pickled  car- 
rots are  as  good  as  pickled  beets,  care  being  taken  not  to  get  them 
cooked  soft  when  parboiling,  and  make  a variety  in  color. 

Pickled  Caulidoicer. — Choose  fine  ones  and  good  size,  cut  away 
all  leaves,  and  pull  away  the  flowers  by  bunches ; soak  in  brine  that 
will  float  an  egg,  for  two  days,  drain,  put  in  bottles  with  whole  black 
pepper,  allspice,  and  stick  cinnamon ; boil  vinegar,  and  with  it  mix 
mustard  smoothly,  a little  at  a time  till  just  thick  enough  to  run 
into  the  jars,  pour  over  the  cold  cauliflower  and  seal  while  hot.  An 
equal  quantity  or  less  of  small  white  onions,  prepared  as  directed 
in  recipe  for  Pickled  Onions,  may  be  added  before  the  vinegar  is 
poured  over.  Or  for  twelve  heads  cauliflower  take  five  quarts  vine- 
gar, five  cups  brown*  sugar,  six  eggs,  one  bottle  French  mustard, 
two  tablespoons  ginger,  a little  garlic,  two  green  peppers,  one-half 
teaspoon  cayenne,  butter  size  of  an  egg,  one  ounce  pulverized  tur- 
meric. Beat  well  together  the  eggs,  sugar,  mustard,  ginger,  and 
turmeric,  then  boil  in  vinegar,  with  garlic  and  peppers,  ten  minutes. 
Boil  cauliflower  in  salt  water  until  tender,  place  carefully  in  jar  and 
pour  over  boiling-hot  mixture.  Some  add  tablespoon  celery  seed. 

Pickled  Celery. — Save  the  solid  white  roots  of  celery,  that  are 
usually  thrown  away,  trim,  cut  in  thick  slices,  boil  in  salted  water 
about  ten  minutes,  dr  in,  and  put  in  jar.  Boil  vinegar  enough  to 
cover,  with  a tablespoon  whole  pepper-corns  and  pour  over  celery. 
After  standing  a day,  drain  off‘  vinegar,  mix  a little  mustard  and 
cayenne  with  it  and  pour  back  into  jar.  This  somewhat  resembles 
chowchow,  and  other  kinds  of  pickles  can  be  added.  Close  the  jai 


646 


PICKLES. 


tightly.  For  Pickled  Celery  with  Cabbage^  put  together  in  porce- 
lain-lined kettle  two  quarts  finely  chopped  white  cabbage,  two  quarts 
chopped  celery  three  quarts  vinegar,  half  ounce  each  crushed 
white  ginger  root  and  turmeric,  fourth  pound  white  mustard  seed, 
two  tablespoons  salt,  five  of  sugar ; cook  slowly  several  hours  until 
cabbage  and  celery  are  tendel*,  put  in  jar  and  cover  closely. 

Pickled.  Cherries. — Leave  stems  on  fine  red,  not  too  ripe,  cherries, 
and  for  each  quart  take  a pint  vinegar  and  cup  sugar ; boil  these 
together  ten  minutes,  skim,  and  when  cold  pour  over  the  cherries, 
packed  in  jar.  Cover  closely.  If  the  fruit  is  nice  the  pickles  will 
be  very  handsome,  and  are  nice  for  garnishing. 

Pickled  Eggs. — Boil  the  eggs  ten  or  fifteen  minutes,  dip  in  cold 
water,  take  off  shells  and  prepare  the  vinegar  by  boiling  with  each 
quart,  a half  ounce  each  black  pepper,  Jamaica  pepper  and  ginger 
tied  in  a bag;  put  eggs  in  jar,  pour  boiling  vinegar  over,  put  in  bag 
of  spices,  and  when  cold  tie  down  to  exclude  the  air.  The  above 
will  pickle  about  sixteen  eggs.  Some  spice  with  two  teaspoons 
each  allspice,  cinnamon  and  mace  to  each  quart  vinegar,  and  dilute 
with  pint  water.  Eggs  are  also  nice  pickled  with  beets,  or  in  the 
vinegar  from  them,  and  are  not  only  always  reiishable  but  ornamen- 
tal as  well,  and  nice  for  garnishing. 

Pickled  Gherkins. — Procure  small  cucumbers,  from  an  inch  and 
a half  to  two  inches  long  and  put  them  in  salt  and  water  for 
three  or  four  days  ; then  take  them  out,  wipe  perfectly  dry,  and  put 
in  stone  jar.  Boil  sufficient  vinegar  to  cover  them,  ten  minutes,  with 
spices  and  pepper  in  proportion  of  one  ounce  bruised  ginger,  one- 
half  ounce  pepper-corns,  one-fourth  ounce  whole  allspice,  four  cloves, 
and  two  blades  of  mace,  to  each  quart  vinegar,  adding  also  a little 
horseradish;  pour  this  boiling  hot  over  the  gherkins,  cover  with 
grape  leaves,  and  put  a plate  over  the  jar,  which  set  overnight  near 
the  fire.  Next  day  drain  off’ the  vinegar,  boil  again  and  pour  it  hot 
over  them.  Cover  with  fresh  leaves  and  when  quite  cold  tie  down 
with  oil-cloth  and  in  a month  or  two  pickles  will  be  ready  for  use. 

Pickled  Grapes. — Cut  bunches  when  hardly  ripe  and  put  in  jar 
with  vine  leaves  between  each  layer  of  grapes  until  jar  is  filled  ; then 
take  as  much  water  as  will  cover  grapes  and  leaves,  and  add  salt  till 
strong  enough  to  bear  an  egg ; when  it  boils,  skim,  strain  through 
flannel  bag  and  let  stand  to  settle.;  strain  a second  time  and  pour 
upon"  the  grapes,  which  must  be  well  covered;  fill  jar  with  vine 
leaves,  tie  over  a double  cloth,  set  a plate  upon  it  and  stand  two 
days  ; then  take  off  the  cloth,  pour  away  the  brine,,  take  out  leaves 
and  grapes,  and  lay  them  between  two  cloths  to  dry ; boil  two  quarts 
vinegar  with  one  of  water,  and  pound  sugar,  and  skim  very  clean  ; 
let  stand  till  cold.  Wipe  the  jar  very  clean  and  dry,  lay  fresh  vine 
leaves  at  the  bottom,  between  every  bunch  grapes  and  on  top; 


PICKLES. 


647 


strain  the  pickle  on  the  grapes,  filling  the  jar;  tie  a thin  piece  of 
board  in  flannel,  lay  it  on  the  grapes  to  keep  them  under  the  pickle 
and  tie  down  closely  with  cloth  and  paper. 

Pickled  Lemons. — Cut  the  lemons  lengthwise,  quartering  them, 
but  not  through  the  rind  at  the  ends  nor  quite  through  the  pulp,  and 
fill  the  slits  with  salt ; put  where  they  will  dry,  either  in  the  hot  sun 
or  by  the  stove  ; when  perfectly  dried,  spice  vinegar,  enough  to  cover 
them,  with  cloves,  cinnamon,  nutmeg,  ginger  root,  and  a little  mus- 
tard seed,  adding  onion  if  liked ; pour  it  boiling  hot  over  the  lem- 
ons ; keep  a year  before  using,  when  they  will  be  found  excellent ; 
they  require  more  vinegar  than  other  pickles,  as  the  lemons  will 
swell  natural  size.-  Or  peel  the  lemons,  slit  each  down  three  times, 
but  do  not  divide  them,  and  rub  salt  well  into  the  incisions ; place 
them  in  a pan,  where  they  must  remain  for  a week ; turn  every 
other  day,  then  put  them  near  the  fire  until  the  salt  has  become 
perfectly  dry;  arrange  them  in  a jar,  pour  over  sufficient  boiling 
vinegar  to  cover  them,  spiced  as  above  or  to  taste ; tie  down  closely 
and  they  will  be  ready  for  use  in  about  nine  months. 

Pickled  Limes. — Cut  limes  open,  fill  with  salt  and  lay  in  the  sun 
to  dry.  In  two  weeks  wash  off  salt  and  put  them  in  a jar  in  alter- 
nate layers,  with  the  following  spices  : Allspice,  cloves,  white  mus- 
tard seed  and  sliced  horse-radish  ; fill  up  jar  with  hot  vinegar,  and 
let  stand  four  weeks,  when  they  will  be  ready  lor  use. 

Pickled  Nasturtiums. — It  is  best  to  gather  the  green  seeds  on  a 
dry  day.  This  is  also  necessary  in  picking  any  vegetables  for  pickling. 
Some  put  seeds  in  vinegar  for  a day,  then  drain,  boil  the  vinegar, 
adding  a little  salt,  a few  pepper-corns,  a small  bit  of  green  ginger 
root,  or  mace  and  a pinch  of  sugar.  Pour  over  the  seeds  boiling  hot, 
and  cork  tightly.  Or  soak  as  gathered  for  twenty-four  hours,  drain, 
place  in  cold  vinegar  and  when  all  wished  are  thus  prepared,  drain, 
and  cover  with  boiling  vinegar,  not  spiced.  Or  if  putting  up  a 
quantity,  let  soak  in  brine  three  days,  drain  and  finish  as  above. 
Nasturtium  pickles  are  a delicious  relish  with  cold  meat  or  raw  oys- 
ters, and  are  an  excellent  substitute  for  capers  in  sauces. 

Pickled  Onions. — Select  small  Silver-skin  onions,  remove 
with  a knife  all  the  outer-skins,  so  that  each  onion  will  be  perfectly 
white  and  clean  ; put  into  brine  that  will  float  an  egg,  for  three  days, 
drain,  or  dry  with  a cloth,  place  in  jar,  first  a layer  of  onions  three 
inches  deep,  then  a sprinkling  of  horse-radish,  cinnamon  bark, cloves, 
and  a little  cayenne  pepper ; repeat  until  jar  is  filled,  in  proportion 
of  half  teaspoon  cayenne  pepper,  two  teaspoons  each  grated  horse- 
radish and  cloves,  and  four  tablespoons  cinnamon  bark,  to  a gallon 
pickles ; bring  vinegar  to  a boiling  point,  add  brown  sugar  in  pro- 
portion of  a quart  to  a gallon  of  vinegar,  and  pour  hot  over  onions. 
Some,  after  soaking,  put  in  glass  cans,  adding  spices,  and  small  red 


648 


PICKLES. 


peppers,  or  rings  of  large  ones,  fill  with  cold  vinegar  and  seal ; put- 
ting tablespoon  salad  oil  over  top  of  each  can  will  prevent  onions  turn- 
ing yellow.  Do  not  cut  onions  so  much  in  peeling  that  they  will  fall 
apart.  Some  scald  spices  with  the  vinegar  instead  of  putting  in  lay- 
ers, while  others  like  flavor  of  equal  quantities  white  mustard,  cor- 
iander and  celery  seed,  allspice,  and  pepper-corns.  If  wanted  very 
nice  and  white  prepare  as  follows  : Gather  the  onions,  which  should 
not  be  too  small,  when  quite  dry  and  ripe ; wipe  off  dirt,  but  do  not 
pare ; make  a strong  brine  of  salt  and  water,  put  in  the  onions, 
change  this,  morning  and  night,  for  three  days,  and  save  the  last 
brine.  Take  off  the  outside  skin,  and  put  onions  in  tin  saucepan 
with  equal  quantities  milk  and  the  last  brine ; add  two  tablespoons 
salt,  put  over  fire,  and  constantly  turn  the  onions  about  with  a 
wooden  skimmer,  letting  milk  and  water  run  through  holes  of  skim- 
mer, but  the  onions  must  not  boil,  and  in  stirring  be  careful  not  to 
break  them.  Have  ready  a pan  with  a colander,  into  which  turn 
the  onions  to  drain,  covering  with  a cloth  to  keep  in  steam.  Place 
on  a table  an  old  cloth  two  or  three  times  double ; put  the  onions 
on  this  when  quite  hot,  covering  closely  with  an  old  piece  of  blanket 
to  keep  in  the  steam ; let  remain  till  next  day,  when  they  will  be 
quite  cold,  and  look  yellow  and  shrivelled ; take  off  the  shrivelled 
skins,  when  they  should  be  as  white  as  snow,  and  put  in  jar.  Make 
a pickle  of  vinegar  and  spices  in  proportion  of  an  ounce  each  bruised 
ginger,  allspice,  whole  black  pepper,  one  grated  nutmeg,  quarter 
ounce  mace,  eight  cloves  and  a teaspoon  cayenne  to  two  quarts 
vinegar ; boil  and  pour  hot  over  the  onions.  Cover  very  closely  to 
keep  in  all  steam,  and  let  stand  over  night.  Put  them  into  jars  or 
bottles,  cover  with  the  spiced  vinegar,  put  a tablespoon  best  olive 
oil  on  the  top  of  each  jar,  tie  down  closely  and  let  stand  in  a cool 
place  for  a month  or  six  weeks,  when  they  will  be  fit  for  use.  They 
should  be  beautifully  white  and  crisp,  without  the  least  softness, 
and  will  keep  good  many  months.  Pickled  Spanish  Onions  are 
prepared  by  cutting  in  thin  slices;  put  a layer  in  bottom  of  jar, 
sprinkle  with  salt  and  cayenne,  then  add  another  layer  of  onions, 
season  as  before,  and  so  on  until  jar  is  full;  pour  in  sufficient  vine- 
gar to  cover  the  whole,  and  the  pickle  will  be  fit  for  use  in  a month. 

Pickled  Peaches. — Take  those  of  full  growth,  but  perfectly 
green.  To  a gallon  of  vinegar  add  half  ounce  each  cloves,  pepper- 
corns, sliced  ginger,  mustard  seed  and  a little  salt,  boil  and  pour 
over  the  peaches  scalding  hot.  Drain  off  vinegar  from  them  several 
mornings,  heat  scalding  hot,  and  pour  over  them. 

Pickled  Plums. — Take  plums  before  they  are  quite  ripe,  and 
put  in  saucepan  with  vinegar,  salt  water,  fennel  seed,  and  dill,  as 
much  of  each  as  will  impart  a flavor  to  pickle  ; when  it  boils  put  in 
plums,  let  boil  again,  then  take  off,  let  stand  till  cold,  and  put  in  jars. 


PICKLES. 


649 


Pickled  Radish  Pods. — Pick  off  green  seed-pods  of  radishes 
while  tender  and  put  in  jars  of  salt  and  water.  When  enough  have 
been  gathered,  drain  off  salt  and  v/ater,  boil  it  and  pour  hot  upon 
the  pods ; cover,  let  remain  till  cold,  boil  and  pour  over  the  pods 
again,  and  after  that  twice  more ; then  drain  the  pods  dry  and  put 
back  in  jar.  Boil  enough  good  vinegar  to  cover  them  with  a small 
piece  of  race  ginger  and  some  pepper-corns  ; pour  it  hot  over  the 
pods  and  let  stand  till  cold.  Boil  and  repeat  twice  more.  Tie  down 
when  cold  and  keep  in  a cool  place.  If  enough  is  gathered  at  once 
for  pickles,  place  in  salt  water  overnight,  then  proceed  as  above. 

Pickled  Tomatoes.— ripe,  small,  round  plum  tomatoes, 
very  dry,  taking  care  not  to  break  skin,  put  in  jar,  or  can,  cover 
with  cold  vinegar  adding  small  cheese-cloth  bag  filled  with  dozen  or 
so  each  cloves  and  pepper-corns,  cork  tightly  and  cover  with  melt- 
ed sealing  wax,  or  screw  on  cover,  and  put  in  Fruit  Closet. 

\ 

Pickled  Sweet- Corn. — ^ake  the  “nubbins”  of  early  corn  wheie 
there  are  too  many  forming  on  the  stalk,  while  very  small  and  teif- 
der.  Trim  neatly,  and  boil  thehi  five  minutes  in  water  slightly  salted. 
Drain  and  put  them  in  a jar.  Boil  good  vinegar  enough  to  cover 
and  pour  it  boiling  hot  over  the^orn  and  let  remain  so  until  nejit 
day,  drain  and  boil  the  vinegar  a^in,  adding  a little  salt.  Place 
corn  in  jar  and  cover  with  vinegar  when  partially  cold.  Cork  the 
jar  and  seal  it.  Any  spices  may  be  placed  in  jar,  with  a good  sprink- 
ling of  mustard  seed ; and  a bay  leaf  or  two,  and  a few  shallots  may" 
be  boiled  with  vinegar. 

Pickled  Walnuts. — Gather  walnuts  (or  butternuts)  'when  soit 
enough  to  be  pierced  by  a large  needle  (in  July);  prick  each  well 
through,  holding  a cloth  to  avoid  staining  hands,  cover  with  strong 
salt  water,  (a  pint  and  a half  salt  to  a gallon  of  water),  let  stand 
two  or  three  days,  changing  brine  every  day ; then  pour  over  them  a 
brine  made  by  dissolving  salt  in  boiling  water  (let  it  get  cold  before 
using),  let  stand  three  days,  renew  brine  and  let  stand  three  days 
more.  Now  drain  and  expose  to  sun  for  two  or  three  days  or  until 
the  nuts  become  black,  or  put  in  cold  water  for  half  a day,  and  pack 
in  jars  not  quite  full.  The  proportions  are  a hundred  walnuts  to 
each  gallon  vinegar.  Boil  vinegar  eight  minutes  with  cup  sugar,  three  ; 
dozen  each  whole  cloves  and  allspice,  a dozen  and  a half  pepper- 
corns and  a ginger  root  if  liked,  some  add  a few  shallots  also  and  a > 
dozen  blades  of  mace.  Pour  the  vinegar  over  walnuts  scalding  hot.  ' 
In  three  days  draw  off  vinegar,  boil  and  pour  over  walnuts  again 
while  hot,  and  at  end  of  three  days  repeat  process.  They  will  be 
fit  to  eat  in  a month,  and  will  keep  for  years.  Or  gather  and  pierce 
the  nuts  as  above,  cover  them  with  brine,  allowing  one  and  a half 
pounds  salt  to  one  gallon  watei’,  and  let  stand  in  cool  place  three 
weeks.  Drain  in  Qolander,  wash  and  wipe  jars,  return  the  walnuts, 


650 


PICKLES. 


cover  with  best  cider  vinegar,  and  let  stand  one  month ; take  out, 
rinse  and  wipe  jars,  put  in  nuts  and  sprinkle  with  an  ounce  mustard 
seed.  To  as  much  fresh  vinegar  as  will  cover  them,  add  one  ounce 
each  cloves,  black  pepper,  and  stick  cinnamon,  half  an  ounce  each 
mace,  and  race  ginger,  and  boil  ten  minutes.  When  cold  pour  over 
cover,  seal  and  keep  as  above. 

Chopped  Pickles. — Take  a peck  green  tornatoes,  wash  clean, 
cu.;  away  a small  piece  from  each  end,  but  do  not  pare  them,  slice 
and  place  in  a large  wooden  bowl,  chop  fine,  place  in  a crock  and 
mix  salt  with  them  (half  pint  to  a peck),  let  stand  twenty-four 
hours,  and  drain  thoroughly ; take  twice  or  three  times  as  much 
cabbage  as  chopped  tomatoes,  chop  fine,  mix  salt  in  same  propor- 
tions, add  enough  water  to  make  moist,  and  let  stand  same  time  as 
tomatoes;  drain,  place  again  in  separate  jars,  cover  each  with  cold 
weak  vinegar ; after  twenty-four  hours  drain  cabbage  well,  pressing 
hard  to  extract  all  juice  ; place  tomatoes  and  the  vinegar  in  a por- 
celain kettle  and  boil  ten  minutes,  stirring  all  the  time,  pour  out, 
and  when  cold,  place  in  a towel  and  wring  and  press  until  perfectly 
dry ; now  mix  tomatoes  and  cabbage  together,  take  a double  hand- 
ful at  a time,  squeeze  as  tightly  as  possible,  and  place  in  a dry 
crock  ; take  stone  jar  in  which  they  are  to  be  pickled,  place  in  it  a 
layer  of  tomatoes  and  cabbage,  scatter  over  chopped  peppers,  whole 
mustard  seed,  and  grated  or  chopped  horse-radish,  then  another 
layer  of  tomatoes  and  cabbage,  next  spice,  and  so  on  until  jar  is  al- 
most full,  occasionally  sprinkling  with  cayenne  pepper , cover  with 
strong  cider  vinegar,  let  stand  overnight,  drain  off  vinegar,  boil,  add- 
ing a cup  sugar  to  each  gallon  and  pour  over  pickles.  Place  a saucer 
or  piece  of  broken  china  on  the  pickles  to  keep  them  under  vine- 
gar. If  a white  scum  rises,  drain  off  vinegar,  boil,  skim,  and  pour 
hot  over  the  pickles.  Prepare  mustard,  peppers,  and  horse-radish, 
as  follows  and  add  to  the  pickles  : Take  three  green  or  ripe  garden 
peppers  (four  tablespoons  when  chopped),  cut  in  two,  place  in  salt 
water  overnight,  and  next  morning  drain  and  chop  quite  fine  : to  two 
tablespoons  mustard  seed  add  saltspoon  salt,  pour  on  boiling  water 
let  stand  fifteen  minutes,  drain;  add  also  three  or  four  tablespoons 
grated  horse-radish.  Tomatoes  with  Onions  are  excellent  prepared 
same  way.  For  Sliced  Pickles,  take  cucumbers  and  onions,  or  to- 
matoes and  onions,  slice  and  prepare  as  above.  Some  add  to  the 
Chopped  Pickles  a do»en  large  green  cucumbers,  four  large  Silver- 
skin  onions,  two  red  peppers,  two  ounces  celery  seed  and  more 
horse-radish.  For  a very  nice  pickle  called  Ladies^  Deligh  t put  eight 
ounces  each  chopped  onions  and  apples,  and  two  of  chopped  chillies, 
(cayenne  pepper  pods), in  a jar.  Boil  pint  vinegar  with  a large 
tablespoon  salt,  and  pour  this  over,  mix  well,  and  when  quite  cold 
put  it  into  smaller  jars  if  preferred.  To  be  eaten  with  cold  meat. 
In  the  first  recipe,  the  vinegar  may  be  drained  off,  reheated  and 
poured  over  the  pickles  three  or  four  times  as  in  Variety  Pickles. 


PICKLES. 


651 


Cuciciiiber  Pickles. — Take  half  bushel  medium-sized,  fresh  cu- 
cumbers, picked  and  rinsed  carefully  as  directed  in  Pickles  in  Brine  ; 
pack  close  in  stone  jar,  sprinkle  over  top  one  pint  salt,  pour  over 
sufficient  quantity  boiling  water  to  cover  them,  place  a cloth  over 
jar,  and  let  stand  until  cold  or  overnight ; drain  off  water,  and  place 
pickles  on  stove  in  cold  vinegar ; let  come  to  a boil,  take  out,  place 
in  stone  jar,  and  cover  with  either  hot  or  cold  fresh  vinegar.  They  will 
be  ready  for  use  in  a few  days,  and  are  excellent.  It  is  an  improve- 
ment to  add  a few  spices,  and  a small  quantity  of  sugar  with  boiling- 
hot  vinegar,  first  using  lump  of  alum,  as  in  following  recipe.  For  Flor- 
ida Pickles.^  select  cucumbers  about  two  inches  long,  prepare  with  salt 
and  boiling  water  as  above,  when  cold,  drain,  and  place  a gallon  at 
a time  on  stove  in  enough  cold  weak  vinegar  to  cover,  to  which  a 
lump  of  alum,  size  of  a small  hickory  nut  (too  much  is  injurious)  has 
been  added.  Have  on  stove,  in  another  kettle,  a gallon  very  best 
cider  vinegar,  to  which  add  half  pint  brown  sugar  or  more  if  wished ; 
have  bottles  cleansed  and  in  pan  of  water  as  on  page  146 ; also  have 
tin  cup  or  small  pan  sealing-wax  heated ; have  spices  prepared,  on 
table,  in  separate  dishes  as  follows : Green  and  red  peppers 
soaked  as  in  Chopped  Pickles,  then  sliced  in  rings ; horse- 
radish roots  washed,  scraped,  and  cut  in  small  pieces ; black 
and  yellow  mustard  seed  (or  these  may  be  left  outj,  prepared 
by  sprinkling  with  salt  and  pouring  on  some  boiling  water,  which 
let  stand  fifteen  minutes  and  then  draw  off;  stick  cinnamon 
washed  free  from,  dust,  and  broken  in  pieces,  a few  cloves,  and  table- 
S])oon  celery  seed.  When  pickles  come  to  boiling  point,  take  out 
and  pack  in  bottles,  mixing  with  them  the  spices,  using  cloves, 
horse-radish  and  mustard  seed  sparingly;  put  in  a layer  of  pickles, 
then  a layer  of  spices,  shaking  the  bottle  occasionally  so  as  to  pack 
tightly ; when  full  cover  with  the  boiling-hot  vinegar  from  the  other 
kettle  (using  a bright  funnel  and  handled  coffee  cup),  filling  up  a 
second  time  in  order  to  supply  shrinkage,  for  pickles  must  e en- 
tirely covered  with  vinegar.  Put  in  corks,  which  should  fit  very 
snugly,  lift  each  bottle  (wrap  a towel  around  it  to  prevent  burning 
the  hands),  and  dip  corked  end  into  hot  sealing-wax;  proceed  in 
this  manner  with  each  bottle,  dipping  each  a second  time  into  wax 
so  that  they  may  be  perfectly  secure.  If  corks  seem  too  small,  place 
them  in  boiling  water  before  using ; if  too  large,  pound  the  sides 
with  a hammer.  The  tighter  they  fit  in  bottles  the  better.  Glass 
cans,  the  tops  or  covers  of  which  have  become  defective,  can  be 
used  by  supplying  them  with  corks,  or  using  cloth  covers,  as  di- 
rected in  preface ; tying  on  one,  then  dipping  in  melted  sealing-wax 
and  quickly  tying  on  another,  dipping  as  above.  Some  even  in 
using  corks  put  on  a cloth  cover  first,  then  the  cork,  finish- 
ing as  directed.  New  glass  cans  with  porcelain  tops  may  of 
course  be  used  as  in  Canning  Fruit.  Pickles  thus  bottled  are 
far  more  wholesome  than,  and  are  really  superior  to  the  best 


652 


PICKLES. 


brand  of  imported  pickles,  and  by  having  materials  in  readiness, 
prepared  as  directed,  the  process  is  neither  difficult  nor  tedious 
but  it  requires  two  persons  to  bottle  them  successfully.  If  the 
market  is  depended  upon  for  the  cucumbers,  secure  them  as  freshly 
picked  as  possible  and  always  with  a short  piece  of  stern  attached^ 
as  they  will  then  keep  more  perfectly.  For  Pickles  in  Brine^  cover 
a bottom  of  a cask  with  common  salt ; gather  cucumbers  every  other 
day,  early  in  morning  or  late  in  evening,  as  it  does  not  injure  the 
vines  so  much  then  as  in  the  heat  of  the  day, if  of  the  Long  Green  vari- 
ety, those  five  or  six  inches  in  length  may  be  used ; cut  them  with  a lit- 
tle of  the  stem,  carefully  laying  them  in  basket  or  pail  so  as  not  to 
bruise ; pour  cold  water  over  them  and  rinse,  not  wash  them,  being 
careful  not  to  rub  off  the  little  black  briers  or  prickers,  or  bruise 
them  in  any  way ; tins  is  important,  as  removing  or  bruising  the 
briers  causes  the  cucumbers  to  decay  quickly,  while  if  left  on  they 
may  be  kept  perfectly  sound  and  good  any  length  of  time.  Lay  them 
in  prepared  cask  three  or  four  inches  deep,  cover  with  salt,  and  re- 
peat the  alternate  layers  until  all  are  in  ; pourin  some  water  with  first 
layer — after  this  the  salt  will  make  sufficient  brine.  Spread  a cloth 
over  them,  then  a board  with  a stone  on  it.  When  a new  supply  of 
cucumbers  is  to  be  added,  remove  stone,  board  and  cloth,  wash 
them  very  clean,  and  wipe  every  particle  of  scum  from  top  of 
pickles  and  sides  of  cask  ; throw  away  any  soft  ones,  as  they  will 
spoil  the  rest ; put  in  fresh  cucumbers,  layer  by  layer,  with  salt  to 
cover  each  layer  in  proportion  of  pint  salt  to  each  gallon  cucumbers. 
When  cask  is  nearly  full,  cover  with  salt,  tuck  cloth  closely  around 
the  edges,  placing  board  and  weight  on  top  ; cover  cask  closely,  and 
the  pickles  will  be  perfect  for  two  or  three  years.  The  brine  should 
be  made  strong  enough  so  that  there  will  always  be  salt  in  bottom 
of  cask.  Cucumbers  must  always  be  put  in  salt  as  soon  as  picked 
from  vines,  for  if  they  lie  a day  or  two  they  will  not  keep.  Do  not 
be  alarmed  at  the  heavy  scum  that  rises  on  them,  but  be  careful  to 
wash  all  off  the  board  and  cloth.  To  prepare  Pickled  Cucumbers^ 
take  off  weight  and  board,  carefully  lift  cloth  with  scum  on  it,  wash 
stone,  board  and  cloth  clean,  and  wipe  all  scum  off  the  cucumbers 
and  sides  of  cask,  take  out  as  many  as  are  wanted,  return  the  cloth, 
board  and  weight,  and  cover  closely.  Place  the  cucumbers  in  a 
vessel  large  enough  to  hold  two  or  three  times  as  much  water  as 
there  are  pickles,  cover  with  cold  water  (some  use  hot),  and  change 
the  water  each  day  for  three  days ; then  place  porcelain  kettle  on 
fire,  half  full  of  vinegar  (if  vinegar  is  very  strong  add  half  water),  fill 
nearly  full  of  cucumbers,  the  largest  first  and  then  the  smaller  ones, 
put  in  a lump  of  alum  size  of  a nutmeg,  and  let  come  to  a boil,  stir- 
ring with  wire  or  wooden  spoon  so  as  not  to  cut  the  cucumbers  ; af- 
ter boiling  one  minute,  skim  out,  place  in  stone  jar,  and  continue  un- 
til all  are  scalded,  then  pour  cold  vinegar  over  them.  In  two  or 
three  days,  if  the  pickles  are  too  salt,  turn  off  vinegar  and  put  on 


PICKLES. 


653 


fresh,  add  a pint  brown  sugar  to  each  two  gallons  pickles,  a pod  or 
two  of  red  pepper  or  pinch  cayenne,  a very  few  cloves,  and  some 
pieces  of  cinnamon  and  horse-radish.  The  horse-radish  prevents  a 
white  scum  from  rising.  For  Self-Made  Pickles^  put  one  gallon 
sorghum  molasses  in  jar  or  barrel  with  two  of  water  and  let  stand 
until  it  begins  to  ferment ; then  rinse  and  drain  cucumbers,  put 
them  in  the  barrel,  cover  with  a cloth  and  board  with  a weight  on 
top,  rinse  off  the  cloth  every  time  cucumbers  are  added.  If  the 
vinegar  turns  white  add  more  molasses.  These  pickles  will  keep 
a year.  Some  use  three  gallons  water  to  one  of  molasses  and  stir 
the  pickles  every  day  until  ready  for  use.  For  Sliced  Cucumber 
Pickles^  peel  and  slice  large,  green  cucumbers  that  would  be  suitable 
for  table,  and  if  gathered  from  the  garden,  leave  a 'piece  of  the  cu- 
cumber on  vine^  as  the  latter  will  not  be  as  much  weakened  and 
when  the  former  are  to  be  sliced  for  pickles,  or  used  fresh,  there  is 
not  the  necessity  for  leaving  on  a portion  of  stem.  Slice  about  one- 
fourth  their  bulk  of  onions ; place  in  a jar  or  crock,  large  enough  to 
hold  pickles  when  finished,  a layer  of  sliced  cucumbers,  then  a thin 
layer  of  onions,  and  so  alternating,  fill  jar  within  an  inch  of  top. 
Put  two  or  three  handfuls  of  salt  on  top  of  pickles,  which  will  make 
their  own  brine.  Let  stand  twenty-four  hours ; then  squeeze  the 
pickles  out  of  brine,  pack  in  dry  stone  jar  and  just  cover  with  vine- 
gar. Make  a paste  of  eight  teaspoons  fine  olive  oil,  two  dessert- 
spoons ground  mustard  and  one  teaspoon  white  pepper ; mix  well 
together  and  put  over  top  of  pickles.  The  pickles  will  be  ready  for 
use  in  two  days  and  will  keep  as  long  as  desired.  Or  omit  the 
onions,  and  after  standing  twenty-four  hours  drain  off  the  liquor, 
pack  in  jars,  a thick  layer  of  salt  and  cucumbers  alternately,  tie 
down  closely  and  when  wanted  take  out  quantity  required.  Wash 
them  well  in  fresh  water  and  dress  with  vinegar,  pepper  and  oil. 

It  often  happens  in  putting  up  cucumber  pickles  that  only  a 
few  can  be  gathered  or  bought  at  a time ; these  can  be  easily 
pickled  as  follows  : Place  in  jar,  sprinkle  with  salt,  in  proportion 
of  pint  sMt  to  peck  cucumbers,  cover  with  boiling  water,  let  stand 
twenty-four  hours,  drain,  cover  with  fresh  hot  water;  after  another 
twenty-four  hours,  drain,  place  in  jar,  and  cover  with  cold,  not  very 
strong  vinegar ; continue  to  treat  each  lot  in  this  manner,  using  two 
jars,  one  for  scalding  and  the  other  as  a final  receptacle  for  pickles, 
until  there  is  enough  for  pickling,  when  drain  and  cover  with  boil- 
ing cider  vinegar,  add  spices,  and  in  a few  days  they  will  be  ready 
for  use.  Sugar  may  be  added  if  wished.  Always  use  fresh  vinegar, 
either  hot  or  cold,  to  pour  over  salted  pickles  that  have  been  cooked 
in  plain  vinegar,  or  vinegar  with  a lump  of  alum  in  it.  All  cucum- 
bers and  sour  pickles  kept  in  stone  jars,  can  be  made  as  good  as 
new  atany  time,  by  draining  off  old  vinegar,  and  pouring  over  fresh, 
boiling  hot,  adding  a little  sugar.  It  well  repays  one  to  do  this  late 
in  the  Winter.  Cider  vinegar  is  the  only  kind  we  have  recommended. 


654 


PICKLES. 


as  it  is  the  lyest  one  can  buy ; but  the  Economical  Vinegar  given  in 
Kitchen,  which  is  really  a home-made  cider  vinegar  is  equally  good, 
and  has  been  thoroughly  tested  and  ^‘not  found  wanting.” 

Ripe  Cueumher  Pickles. — Take  twenty-four  large  cucumbers, 
ripe  and  sound,  six  white  onions,  four  large  red  peppers ; pare  and 
remove  seeds  from  cucumbers,  chop  well,  not  too  fine ; then  chop 
onions  and  peppers  fine,  mix  thoroughly  with  cup  salt,  and  ounce 
white  mustard  and  place  in  a muslin  bag;  drain  twenty-four  hours, 
remove  to  glass  jars,  cover  with  cold  vinegar  and  seal.  Will  keep 
a long  time  and  are  excellent. 

French  Pickles. — Take  one  peck  green  tomatoes,  six  large  on- 
ions sliced,  mix  through  them  one  tea-cup  salt,  and  let  stand  over 
night ; next  day  drain  thoroughly,  boil  in  one  quart  vinegar  mixed 
with  two  quarts  of  water,  for  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes,  then  take 
four  quarts  vinegar,  two  pounds  brown  sugar,  half  pound  white 
mustard  seed,  two  tablespoons  ground  allspice,  and  the  same  of  cin- 
namon, cloves,  ginger,  and  ground  mustard  and  boil  altogether  fif- 
teen minutes,  then  put  in  jars  and  keep  closely  covered  in  dry,  cool 
place.  Or  put  the  onions  and  tomatoes  to  drain  after  boiling  while 
preparing  the  spiced  vinegar,  then  put  in  jar  and  pour  it  over  boil- 
ing hot.  A teaspoon  cayenne  and  six  green  peppers  may  be  added 
if  liked,  and  the  onions  may  be  chopped  if  preferred.  Some  prepare 
vinegar  with  one  tablespoon  turmeric,  tivo  of  mustard  and  half 
ounce  celery  seed  and  one  pound  brown  sugar. 

Higdon  Pickles. — One  dozen  ripe  cucumbers  and  one  quart 
onions  chopped  quite  fine  ; put  both  in  a cloth,  squeeze  all  the  water 
out,  add  four  green  peppers,  and  a little  celery  chopped ; mix  all 
well  together  and  season  with  salt,  ground  cinnamon  and  mustard, 
little  salad  oil,  black  and  white  mustard  seed  and  a little  sugar ; 
cover  with  cold  vinegar. 

Martynia  Pickles. — Gather  the  pods  when  green  and  tender; 
wash,  wipe  dry  and  place  in  jar ; take  enough  water  to  cover  them, 
first  boiling  with  it  salt,  in  proportion  of  one  pint  to  each  half  gallon ; 
skim  and  pour  over  the  pods ; let  stand  two  or  three  days,  drain, 
place  them  in  clean,  dry  jar  and  pour  over  boiling  vinegar,  spiced 
as  liked,  and  a little  sugar  may  also  be  added.  These  are  a new  and 
delicious  pickle.  See  Marketing  for  illustration  of  martynia. 

Mixed  Pickles. — One-half  peck  green  tomatoes,  twenty-five 
medium-sized  cucumbers,  fifteen  large  white  onions,  one-half  peck 
small  onions,  four  heads  cabbages,  pint  grated  horseradish,  half 
pound  white  mustard  seed,  a quarter  pound  ground  mustard,  half 
cup  ground  black  pepper,  half  pint  salad  oil,  ounce  celery  seed,  half 
ounce  ground  cinnamon,  two  ounces  turmeric.  Slice  tomatoes  and 
large  onions,  cut  cabbage  as  for  slaw,  quarter  cucumbers  lengthwise, 


TICKLES. 


655 


cut  in  pieces  two  inches  long,  leaving  on  the  peel,  and  add  small 
onions  whole.  ]Mix  with  salt  thoroughly,  let  stand  twenty- four 
hours;  drain  off  juice,  and  pour  some  vinegar  and  water  over  pickles. 
Let  stand  a day  or  two,  drain  again  as  dry  as  possible ; mix  spices 
well  except  the  ground  mustard,  then  boil  one  and  one-half  gallons 
best  vinegar  and  pour  boiling  hot  over  the  pickles ; do  this  three 
mornings  in  succession,  using  the  same  vinegar  each  time.  The 
third  time  add  one  pound  sugar  to  the  vinegar  and  boil,  pouring 
over  as  above ; also  mix  the  oil  and  ground  mustard  together  with  a 
small  portion  of  the  vinegar,  and  add  when  cold.  Oil  can  be  omit- 
ted if  not  relished.  Or  for  Hanover  Pickles^  take  one  peck  toma- 
toes, half  head  cabbage,  cut  with  slaw  cutter ; two  bunches  of  celery 
or  a little  celery  seed,  three  or  more  small  carrots,  using  only  the 
red  part,  six  onions,  five  bell  peppers ; chop  and  mix  together, 
sprinkle  in  seeds,  and  pour  on  a pint  molasses  ; hea.t  three  pints  vine- 
gar, two  tablespoons  each  ground  cloves,  cinnamon,  and  yellow  mus- 
tard and  pour  over  scalding  hot.  Excellent  and  improves  with  age. 

Pepper  Pickles —VTocviTQ  the  smallest  peppers  to  be  had  when 
half  ripe  before  they  turn  red ; make  a small  hole  at  top  and  bot- 
tom of  each  and  with  a pen-knife  extract  core  and  seed.  Simmer 
peppers  a Vvhole  day  in  salt  and  water  over  moderate  fire,  stirring 
occasionally  to  prevent  burning.  Leave  overnight  to  cool,  and  next 
morning  place  gently  in  jar,  sprinkle  small  quantity  of  mustard 
over  and  fill  up  with  cold  vinegar.  Or  slit  them  down  the  side  with 
a knife,  and  remove  seeds,  put  them  in  a strong  brine  for  three  days, 
changing  it  every  morning ; then  take  them  out,  lay  on  a cloth,  with 
another  over  them,  until  perfectly  free  from  moisture.  Boil  suf- 
ficient vinegar  to  cover  them,  with  one-fourth  ounce  mace  and  nut- 
meg to  each  quart  vinegar,  put  the  pods  in  jar,  pour  over  the  vine- 
gar when  cold,  and  tie  down  closely.  For  Chopped  Pepper  PickleSy 
take  twenty-five  green  peppers,  more  than  double  their  bulk  in  cab- 
bage, half  pint  salt,  one  tablespoon  each  mustard  seed,  ground 
cloves,  and  allspice.  Take  the  seeds  from  the  peppers,  and  chop 
them,  fine ; chop  the  cabbage,  and  all  the  other  ingredients,  cover 
with  cold  vinegar,  mix  thoroughly,  and  put  in  closely  covered  jars. 

Pyfer  Pickles. — Salt  pickles  down  dry  for  ten  days,  soak  in 
fresh  water  one  day ; pour  off  water,  place  in  porcelain  kettle,  cover 
with  water  and  vinegar,  and  add  teaspoon  pulverized  alum  to  each 
gallon  ; set  overnight  on  stove  which  had  fire  in  during  day;  wash 
and  put  in  jar  with  cloves,  allspice,  pepper,  horse-radish  and  onions 
or  garlic  ; boil  fresh  vinegar  and  pour  over  all ; will  be  ready  for  use 
in  two  weeks.  These  pickles  are  always  fresh  and  crisp,  and  are 
made  with  less  trouble  than  the  old-fashioned  way  in  brine. 

Spanish  Pickles. — One  dozen  large  cucumbers,  four  heads  cab- 
bage, one  peck  green  tomatoes,  one  dozen  onions,  three  ounces 


656 


PICKLES. 


white  mustard  seed,  one  ounce  celery  seed,  one  ounce  turmeric, 
small  box  mustard,  two  and  a half  pounds  blown  sugar.  Let  the 
cucumbers  stand  in  brine  that  will  float  an  egg,  three  days ; slice 
onions,  chop  cabbage  and  tomatoes  the  day  before  making,  and 
sprinkle  with  salt  in  proportion  of  half  pint  to  a peck.  When  ready 
to  make,  squeeze  brine  out  of  cucumbers,  wipe  off,  peel  and  cut  in 
slices.  Drain  other  vegetables  and  put  all  in  kettle  in  layers  with 
seasoning  bet’ween,  just  cover  with  vinegar,  simmer  all  slowly  half  an 
hour,  and  then  bottle.  The  cabbage,  cucumbers  or  tomatoes,  or  any 
two  of  them  may  be  omitted,  if  the  mixture  is  not  liked.  Another 
way  is  to  take  one  peck  cucumbers,  cut  in  pieces  about  an  inch 
square,  two  dozen  each  onions  and  green  peppers,  sliced ; sprinkle 
with  salt  and  let  stand  a day  and  night,  then  drain  overnight ; have 
ready  ounce  turmeric  and  horse-radish,  two  each  celery  seed,  white 
mustard,  white  ginger  and  cinnamon  bark ; put  in  a layer  of  pickles, 
then  seasoning,  then  pickles,  and  so  on  until  all  are  used ; pour  one 
gallon  cider  vinegar  over,  heated  with  one  pint  brown  sugar,  and 
cover  closely  twenty-four  hours,  when  it  will  be  ready  for  use. 

Green  Tomato  Pickles— gallons  green  tomatoes,  sliced 
without  peeling  and  twelve  good  sized  onions,  also  sliced.  Stew  un- 
til quite  tender,  then  add  two  quarts  vinegar,  one  of  sugar,  two  small 
tablespoons  salt,  two  tablespoons  each  ground  mustard  and  black 
pepper,  tablespoon  each  allspice  and  cloves.  Put  up  in  small  jars. 

Pipe  Tomato  Pickles. — Pare,  but  not  scald,  ripe,  sound  toma- 
toes and  put  in  jar ; scald  in  vinegar  any  spices  wished,  tied  in  a bag, 
and  pour  wliile  hot  over  them.  This  recipe  is  much  liked  by  those 
who  prefer  raw  tomatoes. 

Universal  Pickles.— six  quarts  vinegar  allow  one  pound 
salt,  one-fourth  pound  ginger,  one  ounce  mace,  half  pound  shalots, 
tablespoon  ca3^enne,  two  ounces  mustard  seed,  one  and  a half 
of  turmeric.  Boil  all  together  twenty  minutes ; when  cold, 
put  into  a jar  with  whatever  vegetables  liked,  such  as  rad- 
ish pods,  French  beans,  cauliflower,  gherkins,  etc.,  as  these  come 
into  season ; put  them  in  fresh  as  gathered,  wiping  them  per- 
fectly free  from  moisture  and  grit.  This  pickle  will  be  fit  for  use 
in  about  eight  or  nine  months.  As  this  pickle  takes  two  or  three 
months  to  make,  nearly  that  time  will  elapse  before  all  the  differ- 
ent vegetables  are  added ; care  must  be  taken  to  keep  the  jar  well 
covered,  either  with  a closely  fitting  lid,  or  a piece  of  oil-cloth  or 
buttered  paper  so  as  perfectly  to  exclude  the  air.  This  is  an  Eng- 
lish recipe  and  a decided  innovation  in  pickling. 

Variety  Pickle. — One  peck  green  tomatoes,  two  or  three  of  cu- 
cumbers, and  two  quarts  large  onions ; pare,  slice  and  salt  in 
separate  jars  (using  a rounded  pint  salt  for  all),  let  them  stand  in  this 
twenty-four  hours,  and  drain  well,  wringing  and  press  in  a cloth ; 


PICKLES. 


657 


sprinkle  fresh  green  radish  pods  and  nasturtium  seeds  with  salt, 
and  let  stand  for  same  length  of  time ; boil  in  water,  salted  to  taste, 
two  quarts  half-grown,  very  tender  bean  pods,  until  they  can  be 
pierced  with  a silver  fork,  take  out  and  drain.  Now  place  all  in  six 
separate  jars,  cover  with  cold,  weak  vinegar  for  twenty-four  hours, 
drain  well,  pressing  hard  to  get  out  all  the  juice  ; cook  tomatoes  as 
in  Chopped  Pickles,  and  then  mix  all  well  together.  In  a stone  jar 
place  first  a layer  of  mixture,  sprinkle  with  mustard  seed  (prepared 
as  directed  in  recipe  for  Chopped  Pickles),  grated  horse-radish,  cin- 
namon bark,  rings  of  garden  peppers,  and  afew  cloves,  then  another 
layer  of  the  mixture,  then  the  spice  with  a light  sprinkling  of  cay- 
enne pepper.  The  spices  used  for  this  amount  are  nine  tablespoons 
stick  cinnamon,  five  teaspoons  each  mustard  seed,  cloves  and  horse- 
radish, and  twenty-seven  rings  of  garden  peppers.  Cover  with  good 
cider  vinegar,  let  stand  overnight,  drain  off  vinegar  and  boil  in  a 
porcelain  kettle,  adding  brown  sugar  in  proportion  of  one  pint  to 
gallon  vinegar ; skim  well,  pour  hot  over  pickles,  continue  to  drain 
off  and  reheat  for  several  days.  If  not  sweet  enough,  add  more 
sugar,  although  these  are  not  intended  for  sweet  pickles.  Some 
think  it  much  nicer,  after  draining  off  and  reheating  vinegar  two  or 
three  times,  to  put  in  the  pickles  and  let  come  to  a boil,  then  put 
away  as  directed  in  preface. 

West  Lidia  Pickle, — Take  one  white  crisp  cabbage,  two  heads 
cauliflower,  three  heads  celery,  one  quart  each  small  green  plums, 
peaches,  grapes,  radish  pods,  nasturtium  seeds  artichokes,  tomatoes 
and  string  beans,  the  green  rind  of  a water-melon  after  paring,  one 
quart  small  onions  parboiled  in  milk,  one  hundred  small  cucumbers 
about  an  inch  long,  a few  green  peppers,  and  three  limes  or  green 
lemons  ; cut  fine  the  cabbage,  cauliflower,  celery,  pepper,  limes,  and 
green  ginger ; mix  well  with  the  rest,  then  pour  a strong  hot  brine 
over,  and  let  stand  three  hours ; take  out  and  drain  overnight. 
Mix  one  ounce  turmeric  powder,  with  a little  cold  vinegar,  add  one 
bottle  French  mustard,  ground  cinnamon,  allspice,  two  nutmegs, 
black  pepper,  four  pounds  white  sugar  and  one  gallon  vinegar,  and 
pour  boiling  hot  over  the  pickle;  if  not  sufficient  liquid  to 
moisten  nicely,  add  more  vinegar. 

Chov^chow. — Let  two  hundred  small  cucumbers  stand  in  salt  and 
water  closely  covered  three  days.  Boil  fifteem  ninutes  in  half  gal- 
lon best  cider  vinegar,  one  ounce  white  mustard  seed,  black  mustard 
seed,  juniper  berries  and  celery  seed  (tying  each  ounce  separately 
in  Swiss  bags),  handful  small  green  peppers,  two  pounds  sugar,  few 
small  onions,  and  piece  of  alum  half  size  of  a nutmeg  ; pour  vinegar 
while  hot  over  cucumbers,  let  stand  a day,  pouring  off  and  reheat- 
ing the  vinegar  and  repeat  the  operation  three  or  four  mornings. 
Mix  one-fourth  pound  mustard  with  vinegar  before  pouring  over  the 
last  time  and  seal  up  in  bottles.  For  Gopher  ChowcJiow  take 
42 


G58 


PICKLES. 


fifty  medium-sized  cucumbers,  pared  and  sliced  for  table, two  quarts 
each  small,  green  tomatoes,  cut  in  pieces,  small  white  onions,  whole, 
and  nasturtiums  (if  liked),  three  large  cauliflowers,  tablespoon  bird 
pepper,  pint  shredded  horse-radish,  three  ounces  whole  black  pep- 
per. Cut  the  cauliflower  in  pieces  suitable  for  pickling,  boil  in 
salted  water  till  easily  pierced  with  a broom  splint ; boil  the  onion 
and  tomatoes  separately  in  weak  vinegar  till  tender ; mix  one  pint 
ground  mustard,  six  tablespoons  flour,  three  of  turmeric,  three  of 
brown  sugar,  wet  with  a little  vinegar  and  stir  till  smooth,  after 
which  add  vinegar  till  a gallon  has  been  used.  Let  this  boil  till 
the  flour  thickens,  then  add  all  ingredients  and  when  thoroughly 
heated  through,  can  while  hot.  Stir  constantly  while  heating,  as  it 
burns  easily  If  not  liked  so  strong,  use  only  three-fourths  or  half 
pint  mustard  and  only  one  tablespoon  turmeric.  Some  take  equal 
parts  cucumbers,  cauliflower  and  onions,  omiting  the  tomatoes,  and 
cup  sugar  to  gallon  vinegar.  If  cauliflower  cannot  be  obtained  the 
hearts  of  cabbage  may  be  used  with  some  chopped  cabbage  in  the 
dressing.  If  dressing  is  left  it  will  be  found  excellent  for  salad, 
sandwiches,  cold  meats  and  baked  beans.  Or  soak  in  weak  brine 
overnight  three  quarts  small  cucumbers,  six  cauliflowers,  three 
quarts  small  white  onions,  one  quart  nasturtiums,  six  heads  sliced 
celery.  Any  small  pickles  may  be  added,  or  small  green  tomatoes 
halved  or  quartered,  red  or  green  peppers,  string  beans,  radish  pods, 
etc.  Steam  the  beans,  tomatoes  and  onions.  Put  in  preserving 
kettle  two  gallons  vinegar,  two  cups  fine  mustard,  two  tablespoons 
each  sweet  oil,  salt,  and  turmeric  powder  with  two  cups  sugar  and 
half  cup  corn-starch,  mixed  with  a little  cold  vinegar.  Let  boil  a 
few  minutes,  stirring  constantly,  pour  over  the  pickle  and  seal  as 
hot  as  possible.  For  Buckeye  (Jhowchow^  take  six  heads  cabbage, 
half  bushel  green  tomatoes,  twenty  onions,  and  eighteen  large  cu- 
cumbers, peeled  ; chop  each  separately,  drain  overnight,  first  sprink- 
ling with  salt.  In  morning  take  two  pounds  brown  sugar,  two  gal- 
lons best  cider  vinegar,  four  ounces  mixed  spices,  one-half  dozen 
small  red  peppers,  chopped,  four  ounces  ground  mustard,  tw’o  each  of 
white  mustard  seed  and  celery  seed.  Put  vinegar  on  stove  with  spices 
and  sugar,  and  let  come  to  aboil,  add  the  pickles,  well  drained,  and 
heat  all  to  boiling  point ; can  and  seal.  Some  cook  an  hour  or 
two.  In  draining  vegetables  put  in  cloth  sacks,  hanging  where  they 
can  drip.  Or  take  in  all  a gallon  of  pickles,  green  shelled  beans,  corn, 
small  pickles,  small  cantelopes,  green  tomatoes,  and  squashes ; cut 
in  small  pieces,  sprinkle  with  two  tea-cups  salt,  just  cover  with  water, 
and  let  stand  overnight,  then  rinse  well  in  cold  Avater.  Put  two 
quarts  vinegar  in  porcelain  kettle  Avith  cup  sugar,  fiA^e  tablespoons 
whole  white  mustard  seed,  and  three  tablespoons  celery  seed  ; boil 
five  minutes,  put  in  the  pickles,  and  boil  half  an  hour ; mix  one- 
fourth  pound  ground  mustard  in  a little  vinegar  and  stir  in  just  as 
it  is  taken  from  fire.  Instead  of  chopping  the  vegetables,  etc.,  they 


PICKLES. 


659 


may  be  put  through  the  sausage  grinder,  if  wanted  cut  fine,  and 
some  add  a pint  grated  horse-radish. 

Clmtney. — Take  six  pounds  good  sound  apples  not  quite  ripe, 
two  pounds  brown  sugar,  three-fourths  pound  onions,  five  and 
half  ounces  salt,  one  and  half  ounce  ground  ginger,  one  ounce 
chillies,  one  quart  squash  pepjier,  one  ounce  whole  mustard  seed, 
six  ounces  good  fresh  raisins,  three  pints  good  vinegar;  chop  fine 
apples,  onions,  raisins,  and  chillies  ; add  salt,  sugar,  spices  and  vine- 
gar ; boil  a few  minutes  and  bottle.  Keep  a few  months  before  using. 

Melon  Mangoes. — Select  green  or  half  grown  musk-melons  ; re- 
move a piece  the  length  of  melon,  and  inch  and  a half  wide  in  the 
middle  and  tapering  to  a point  at  each  end;  take  out  seeds  with  a 
teaspoon,  secure  one  end  of  each  piece  to  its  own  melon  by  a stitch 
made  with  a needle  and  white  thread.  Make  a brine  of  salt  and 
cold  water  strong  enough  to  float  an  egg,  pour  it  over  them,  and 
after  twenty-four  hours  take  them  out.  For  filling,  use  tomatoes 
and  cabbage  prepared  as  in  Chopped  Pickles,  small  cucumbers, 
small  white  onions,  and  nasturtium  pods,  each  prepared  by  remain- 
ing in  salt  and  water  in  separate  jars  twenty-four  hours;  add  also 
green  beans  boiled  in  salt  and  water  until  tender.  For  spice,  use 
cinnamon  bark,  whole  cloves,  grated  horse-radish,  cayenne  pepper, 
mustard  seed,  the  latter  prepared  as  directed  in  Chopped  Pickles. 
Prepare  three  or  four  times  as  much  cabbage  and  tomatoes  as  of 
other  articles,  and  any  part  left  over  may  be  placed  in  jar  with  vin- 
egar poured  over,  and  is  ready  for  table.  Use  one,  or,  if  small,  two 
cucumbers,  two  or  three  onions,  and  same  quantity  of  bean  and 
nasturtium  pods,  placing  them  in  mango  first,  with  two  or  three 
cloves,  three  or  four  sticks  cinnamon  an  inch  long,  and  half  tea- 
spoon horse-radish,  and  filling  up  afterwards  with  the  chopped  cab- 
bage or  tomatoes  (mixing,  or  using  them  separately  in  alternate 
melons)  pressing  down  very  firmly,  so  that  mango  is  filled  tight, 
sprinkling  on  cayenne  pepper  last.  Sew  in  piece  all  around  in  its 
proper  place  with  strong  white  thread ; when  all  are  thus  prepared, 
place  in  a stone  jar,  cover  with  weak  cider  vinegar  and  let  remain 
overnight ; in  the  morrdng  place  the  mangoes,  and  vinegar  in  which 
they  were  soaked,  in  porcelain  kettle,  boil  half  an  hour,  place  in  jar, 
cover  with  good,  fresh,  cider  vinegar  and  let  stand  all  night ; in  the 
morning  drain  off  vinegar  and  boil  it,  adding  one  pint  sugar  to  each 
gallon,  or  more  if  wished,  and  pour  boiling  hot  over  mangoes  ; drain 
off  vinegar  next  day,  boil,  pour  hot  over  them  ; repeat  three  or  four 
times,  and  then  put  away.  For  Yelloio  Mangoes^  scrape  off  the 
outside  rind  of  green  cantelopes  (from  four  to  six  inches  in  length), 
and  cut  a piece  two  inches  square  from  the  side,  keeping  this  to  be 
sewed  in  again  when  pickled ; remove  ail  seeds  and  soft  substance 
through  this  opening.  Scald  in  salt  and a ter,  using  a half  pound 
salt  to  four  quarts  water ; then  rub  them  well  with  salt.  on  a 


660 


PICKLES. 


white  cloth,  and  let  bleach  in  the  sun  a few  days,  turning  frequently. 
When  bleached  wipe  off  salt,  and  put  them  in  a two-gallon  jar  with 
one  gallon  weak  eider  vinegar,  add  about  two  tablespoons  turmeric  ; 
let  remain  forty-eight  hours.  Take  two  ounces  white  ginger,  shredded 
and  soaked  forty-eight  hours  in  salt  and  water,  and  two  ounces  each 
long  pepper,  white  pepper,  coriander  and  carraw^ay  seed,  cardamon, 
garlic,  horseradish,  turmeric  and  ground  mustard,  and  half  pint  sweet 
oil ; mix  all  together,  adding  small  head  cabbage  and  two  or  three 
dozen  green  tomatoes,  finely  chopped.  Stuff  the  cantelopes  and 
sew  in  the  covers  ; put  in  jar  and  cover  with  gallon  vinegar  and  half 
pint  brown  sugar.  The  long  pepper  spoken  of  above  is  the  produce  of  a 
different  plant  from  that  which  produces  the  black,  consisting  of 
the  half-ripe  flower-heads  of  what  naturalists  call  Piper  longum. 
Onions,  cauliflowers,  etc.,  may  be  bleached  and  pickled  as  above, 
omitting  the  stufiiiig.  For  Hawkey e Manqoes^  take  the  melons, 
prepared  and  soaked  in  brine  as  in  first  recipe,  and  scald  them  in 
vinegar  spiced  with  cinnamon  and  cloves.  For  filling,  chop  fine 
two  medium-sized  heads  of  cabbage,  sprinkle  with  salt  and  let  stand 
overnight ; add  one  pound  each  chopped  raisins,  white  mustard  and 
celery  seed,  three  pints  grated  horse-radish,  one  of  nasturtium  seed, 
a little  ground  mustard,  ounce  turmeric,  pint  olive  oil,  cup  sugar, 
one  nutmeg,  grated,  and  a few  small  pickles  added  as  in  first  recipe. 
When  melons  are  filled,  sew  in  piece,  place  in  jar  and  cover  with 
vinegar,  either  hot  or  cold,  adding  a little  sugar,  if  wished.  For  a 
Horse-radish  Filling in  proportion  of  one-third  grated  horse- 
radish to  two-thirds  mustard  seed,  and  to  a quart  of  this,  use  teaspoon 
each  mace,  ground  mustard,  sugar  and  celery  seed,  tw^o  of  grated 
onion,  dozen  pepper-corns,  a little  ginger  and  half  teaspoon  salad  oil. 

Peach  Mangoes. — Take  unpared,  fine,  large  freestone  peaches  ; 
with  a knife  extract  the  stone  from  the  side,  place  in  jar,  pour  over 
them  boiling  w^ater  salted  to  taste,  let  stand  twenty-four  hours  ; drop 
into  fresh  cold  water  and  leave  ten  or  fifteen  minutes  ; wipe  very 
dry,  fill  each  cavity  with  grated  horse-radish  and  white  mustard  seed, 
prepared  as  directed  in  recipe  for  Chopped  Pickles,  a small  piece  of 
ginger  root,  and  one  or  two  cloves  ; sew  up,  and  place  in  stone  jar  as 
close  together  as  possible.  Make  a syrup  in  proportion  of  one  pint 
sugar  to  three  pints  vinegar  and  pour  boiling  hot  over  them.  They 
will  be  ready  for  use  in  a week,  and  are  very  fine. 

Pepper  Mangoes. — Procure  fifty  “bull  nose”  or  large  sweet  pep- 
pers and  lay  in  strong  salt  water  two  weeks  ; then  simmer  half  an 
hour  in  weak  vinegar,  protecting  with  cabbage  or  grape  leaves, 
though  the  use  of  leaves  is  not  necessary  to  success.  Cut  off  top  ot 
pepper  or  small  piece  from  side,  and  remove  seeds.  Then  fill  pep- 
per with  nice  firm  cabbage,  chopped  as  for  slaw  ; to  one  large  head 
take  half  pint  grated  horse-radish,  pint  mixed  white  and  black  mus- 
tard seed,  half  pint  best  olive  oil  and  three  cloves  of  garlic,  if 


9 


PICKLES. 


661 


liked.  Put  the  top  or  piece  cut  off,  in  place,  tie  it  on  with  nice 
clean  twine,  and  put  the  mangoes  in  ajar.  Add,  to  enough  vinegar 
to  cover  them,  two  pounds  brown  sugar,  cloves,  mace,  and  allspice 
to  taste,  boil  and  pour  hot  over  the  mangoes.  If  liked,  have  three 
quarts  small  onions,  prepared  by  scalding,  peeling  and  soaking  three 
days  in  brine;  drain,  add  to  mango  jar,  cover,  and  when  cold  tie 
down  with  oil-cloth  as  directed  in  preface.  Or,  With  Tongue,  cut 
a slit  in  the  side  of  each  pepper  and  take  out  all  seeds ; soak  them 
two. days  in  brine,  strong  enough  to  float  an  egg,  wash  with  cold 
water,  put  in  a jar  and  cover  with  vinegar  boiled  with  cinnamon, 
mace  and  nutmeg  to  taste.  To  serve,  stuff  each  with  cold  boiled 
tongue,  cut  into  dice,  and  mixed  with  mayonaise  dressing.  Or 
make  little  mangoes  of  small  peppers,  stuffing  each  with  pickled 
nasturtiums,  grapes,  minced  onions,  red  cabbage  or  cucumbers,  sea- 
soned with  mustard  seed,  root  ginger,  and  mace. 

Tomato  Mangoes. — Cut  off  top  and  thoroughly  scrape  out  in- 
inside of  green  tomatoes,  leaving  the  shell ; make  a strong  brine  to 
cover  them  and  let  stand  one  day ; take  out  and  wash  well  in  cold 
water ; chop  fine  one  cabbage  and  very  fine,  a dozen  onions  ; add 
grated  horse-radish,  salt,  pepper,  and  white  mustard  seed ; mix  all 
well  together,  and  fill  tomatoes  nice  and  even ; place  on  top  and  tie 
as  in  Pepper  Mangoes  ; place  in  jar,  and  cover  with  cold  vinegar. 

Picnic  Relish. — Take  large  cucumbers  that  have  begun  to 
turn  white  before  ripening  ; pare,  split,  scrape  out  seeds,  grate  and 
put  in  sieve  or  colander  to  drain.  To  one  quart  pulp  add  teaspoon 
salt,  half  teaspoon  cayenne  pepper,  two  tablespoons  grated  horse- 
radish, one  of  grated  onion,  and  as  much  cold  vinegar  as  juice 
drained  off ; throw  juice  away.  Can  without  heating.  Will  retain 
flavor  nicely.  The  onion  may  be  omitted.  Or  grate  and  drain  four 
dozen  cucumbers,  add  fourteen  onions  and  six  or  seven  green  pep- 
pers, chopped  very  fine;  six  teaspoons  pepper,  four  of  salt  and  one 
quart  vinegar.  Can  as  above. 

Picallilli. — Chop  fine  one  large  white  cabbage,  fifty  small  cu- 
cumbers, five  quarts  small  string  beans,  eight  small  carrots,  one 
dozen  stalks  celery,  five  red  and  three  green  peppers,  and  two  heads 
cauliflower  ; soak  overnight  in  salt  and  water,  wash  well,  drain  thor- 
oughly, and  pour  hot  vinegar  over,  spiced  with  mace,  cinnamon  and 
allspice;  turn  off  vinegar  and  pour  hot  over  mixture  again;  repeat 
this  five  times  , or  cook  mixture  and  can.  Or,  take  half  bushel  green 
tomatoes,  an  equal  quantity  of  cabbage,  and  one  dozen  each  onions 
and  green  peppers,  or  cayenne  if  green  peppers  cannot  be  had ; chop 
all  fine,  mix,  sprinkle  one  pint  salt  over  and  through  them,  and  let 
stand  overnight.  In  the  morning  drain  off  brine,  cover  with  good 
vinegar  and  boil  slowly  one  hour.  Then  drain  and  put  in  a jar. 
Take  two  pounds  brown  sugar,  two  tablespoons  each  celery  seed 


662 


PICKLES. 


and  cinnamon,  one  each  allspice  and  cloves,  'two  p'ated  nntmegSi 
one  half  cup  ground  pepper  and  one  pint  horse-radish  with  vinegar 
to  mix.  Boil  all  together  and  pour  over  contents  of  jar.  Cover 
tight  or  bottle  and  seal  while  hot.  Or  the  ingredients,  proportions 
or  spices  may  be  varied  to  suit  the  taste.  An  excellent  pickle  is 
made  hy  chopping  together  gherkins,  small  onions,  red  peppers, 
nasturtiums,  cauliflower,  and  the  small  heart  of  a cabbage — four 
quarts  in  all ; put  in  brine  for  tliirty-six  hours,  then  drain  well  and 
put  in  jars.  Rub  two  ounces  each  curry  and  dry  mustard  with  half 
pint  salad  or  sweet  oil,  add  an  ounce  and  a half  ginger,  an  ounce 
turmeric,  half  pound  sugar,  and  boil  with  two  quarts  vinegar  until 
thickened ; then  pour  over  the  pickles  and  cover. 

Olives. — Serve  in  pickle  dishes  with  broken  ice  strewn  upon 
them.  When  the  flavor  of  olives  is  not  at  first  appreciated,  it  is 
best  to  soak  overnight  in  fresh  water,  and  then  place  in  vinegar.  A 
capital  pickle  is  thus  made,  and  those  eating  them  this  way  soon 
learn  to  like  them  without  this  preparation.  Stuffed  Olives  make  a 
delicious  dish.  Olives  are  also  used  in  sauces  for  entrees,  and  for 
garnishing  salads,  meats,  etc. 


Sweet  Prickles. 


Sweet  pickles  may  be  made  of  any  fruit  that  can  be  preserved, 
including  rinds  of  ripe  melons  and  cucumbers.  The  fruit  must  be 
ripe,  but  not  soft ; peaches,  plums,  and  cherries  should  be  pickled 
whole ; pears  also  may  be  whole,  or  nicely  halved,  cored,  and  pared ; 
quinces,  after  being  parboiled,  must  be  pared,  quartered,  and  cored  ; 
if  large,  cut  in  eighths.  Plums  and  other  smooth-skinned  fruits 
should  be  well  pricked  before  cooking.  The  usual  proportion  of 
sugar  to  vinegar  for  syrup  is  three  pints  to  a quart,  making  what 
is  called  a Single  Sgrup.  A richer  proportion  known  as  Double 
Syrup  is  four  pints  sugar  to  a pint  vinegar.  When  making  it,  this 
will  seem  too  rich,  but  the  picivles  canned  with  it  will  be  perfectly 
delicious,  and  can  scarcely  bo  told  from  brandied  fruit.  Sweet 
p-ickles  may  be  made  of  any  preserve#by  boiling  over  the  syrup,  add« 
ing  spices  and  vinegar  and  pouring  hot  over  the  fruit.  Examine 
frequently  and  re-scald  the  syrup  if  there  are  signs  of  fermentation. 
The  principal  spices  used  are  stick  cinnamon  and  w^hole  cloves ; 
and  either  granulated,  “coffee  C,”  or  good  stirred  maple  sugar.  All 
that  is  necessary  to  keep  sweet  pickles  when  not  canned,  but  kept 
in  stone  jars  is  to  have  syrup  enough  to  cover,  and  keep  the  fruit 


SWEET  PICKLES. 


663 


well  under.  Drain  each  morning,  boil  the  syrup  and  pour  hot  over 
the  fruit  until  the  latter  is  of  same  color  throughout,  and  syrup 
like  molasses ; one  can  hasten  the  process,  by  cooking  the  syrup  quite 
awhile  each  morning,  instead  of  simply  bringing  to  a boil.  Watch 
every  week,  particularly  if  weather  is  warm,  and  if  scum  rises  and 
syrup  assumes  a whitish  appearance,  boil,  skim,  and  pour  over  the 
fruit.  If  at  any  time  syrup  is  lacking,  prepare  more  as  at  first. 
Put  spices  in  jar  when  pickles  are  almost  done,  as  directed  in  Peach 
Pickles;  and  when  putting  in  hot  fruit  or  syrup,  set  jar  near'  stove, 
put  in  onl}^  a little  fruit  at  a time,  and  when  all  is  in,  pour  syrup 
over  slowly.  This  care  will  prevent  a cracked  jar. 

Canning  is  much  the  nicest  way  of  putting  up  sweet  pickles, 
and  some  can  Chowchow  and  other  sour  pickles.  Make  the  syrup 
in  proportions  given  in  the  recipe  used,  putting  in  the  spices  loose, 
or  tied  loosely  in  piece  of  cheese-cloth ; or  cloves,  two  or  three  may  be 
stuck  in  the  fruit,  if  latter  is  whole,  as  peaches,  pears,  etc.,  and  the 
cinnamon  cooked  in  the  syrup.  Cook  the  fruit  in  the  syrup  until 
tender,  and  prepare  cans  and  fruit  as  directed  in  Canning  Fruit. 
When  pickling  the  light-fleshed  fruits,  only  a small  quantity  should 
be  pared  at  a time,  as  they  darken  very  quickljq  and  two  kettles 
should  be  used,  one  for  cooking  the  fruit  and  the  other  for  making 
extra  syrup  to  be  added  when  needed.  When  canning  either 
pickles  or  fruit,  after  filling  cans  take  out  a sufficient  quantity  of 
the  hot  syrup  to  fill  up  the  cans  as  directed,  after  the  fruit  has  set- 
tled ; and  keep  it  hot  for  this  purpose  by  setting  in  a pan  of  boiling 
water  until  wanted.  This  enables  one  to  work  more  expeditiously, 
for  fresh  fruit  can  then  be  placed  in  kettle,  adding  syrup  from  that 
made  ready  in  second  kettle ; or  making  more  syrup  in  same  kettle, 
then  adding  fruit  and  letting  it  cook  while  finishing  cans  first  filled. 
A dozen  whole  pears  or  twenty  whole  peaches  will  fill  a quart  can. 
Some  sprinkle  the  sugar  over  fruit,  let  stand  overnight,  then  bofi 
juice  with  the  vinegar  and  spices  fifteen  minutes  ; put  in  fruit,  boil 
ten  minutes,  and  can  as  directed ; or  put  in  stone  jar,  reheating 
syrup  as  above,  allowing  to  every  seven  pounds  fruit,  three  pounds 
sugar  and  pint  cider  vinegar,  two  ounces  each  whole  cloves  and 
stick  cinnamon.  Always  use  a silver  fork  to  test  pickles,  and  keep 
the  latter  in  a cool,  dry  place ; if  canned,  place  in  Fruit  Closet,  page 
147.  In  ventilating  this  closet  it  is  well  to  place  the  opening  or 
holes,  in  one  side  as  well  as  door,  or  if  closet  is  not  placed  in  corner 


664 


SWEET  PICKLES. 


of  room,  put  them  in  the  two  sides  opposite  each  other.  While  en- 
dorsing strongly  the  cider  vinegar,  the  Economical  Vinegar,  recipe 
for  which  is  given  in  Kitchen, is  equally  good  and  has  been  thorough- 
ly tested.  When  wishing  to  renew  sweet  pickles,  drain,  add  to,  and 
heat  with  the  old  syrup,  more  vinegar  and  sugar,  in  proportions  first 
used.  One  must  not  use  all  fresh  vinegar,  nor  throw  away  the  old 
syrup  as  is  the  case  in  sour  pickles  (see  Cucumbers  Pickles),  nor  is 
there  the  same  need  to  do  so,  for  sweet  pickles  are  more  like  pre- 
serves, the  syrup  being  really  used  as  a part  of  the  pickles  as  well  as 
acting  as  a preservative. 


Fielded  Apples. — For  one  peck  sweet  apples  take  three  pounds 
sugar,  two  quarts  vinegar,  half  ounce  each  cinnamon  and  cloves ; 
pare  -apples,  leaving  them  whole ; boil  in  part  of  vinegar  and  sugar 
until  they  can  be  pierced  with  fork ; take  them  out,  heat  remainder 
of  vinegar  and  sugar  and  pour  over  them.  Be  careful  not  to  boil 
them  long  or  they  will  break.  Or,  take  three  pounds  sugar,  seven 
pounds  apples,  quartered  and  cored  and  one  pint  vinegar.  Steam 
apples  till  a fork  will  pierce  them.  Then  make  a syrup  of  sugar  and 
vinegar  and  pour  over  them  while  hot.  Stick  a clove  or  two  into 
each  quarter.  For  Pickled  Grab- Apples.,  steam  as  above,  watcli- 
ing  closely,  as  they  cook  very  quickly.  When  the  skin  is  just  readv 
to  break,  take  out,  and  place  in  the  hot  Single  or  Double  Syrup,  al- 
ready prepared  in  kettle  ; cook  only  a moment  or  two,  and  then  can 
as  directed.  Some  prick  the  apples  just  like  plums. 

Pickled  Barberries. — For  each  quart  fruit  allow  a pint  each 
vinegar  and  sugar,  boil  together  and  pour  over  berries  in  jar. 

Pickled  Beets. — Boil  them  in  a porcelain  kettle  till  they  can 
be  pierced  with  a silver  fork ; when  cool  cut  lengthwise  to  size  of 
medium  cucumber ; boil  equal  parts  vinegar  and  sugar  with  a half 
tablespoon  ground  cloves  tied  in  a cloth  to  each  gallon ; pour  boil- 
ing hot  over  the  beets. 

Pickled  Blackberries. — Three  quarts  blackberries,  one  quart 
vinegar,  one  quart  sugar ; put  all  together  and  boil  ten  or  fifteen 
minutes.  Put  up  and  seal  in  glass  cans.  Cinnamon  or  any  spices 
to  taste  may  be  added,  but  very  nice  without. 

Pickled  Grapes. — Fill  a jar  with  alternate  la3^ers  of  sugar  and 
bunches  of  nice  grapes,  just  ripe  and  freshly  gathered ; fill  one-third 
full  of  good  cold  vinegar  and  cover  tightly.  Or  clip  the  grapes  from 
rnain  stem  with  scissors  and  pack  snugly  in  stone  jar;  make  a 
Single  Syrup  and  add  tablespoon  whole  cloves  and  two  of  cinna- 
mon bark,  and  pour  over  grapes  in  jar ; set  away  three  or  four  days  ; 
then  drain  off*  vinegar,  boil  and  pour  over  again  ; repeat  for  a third 


SWEET  PICKLES. 


665 


time,  and  any  time  afterwards  should  the  grapes  he  inclined  to 
sour.  They  may  be  pickled  in  bunches  if  preferred,  taking  care  to 
remove  all  imperfect  fruit.  Pears,  Peaches  and  Figs  are  nice  pickled 
same.  Or  for  five  pounds  grapes,  take  two  pounds  sugar,  a quart 
vinegar  and  one  tablespoon  whole  mixed  spices — cloves,  allspice 
and  mace.  Boil  vinegar  and  sugar  together  gently  ten  minutes; 
put  in  grapes,  and  let  simmer  half  an  hour.  Pour  all  in  colander 
set  in  pan,  drain  a few  moments  and  put  grapes  in  jar,  and  syrup 
back  on  fire,  wuth  the  spices  tied  in  a piece  of  muslin ; boil  ten  min- 
utes and  pour  over  grapes  in  jar.  After  standing  a day  or  two  drain 
syrup  ofi',  boil  and  pour  back  hot.  When  cool,  tie  down  and  keep 
in  cold  place.  The  solid  white  California  grapes  can  be  pickled  any 
time-,  but  juicier  varieties  must  be  put  up  before  too  ripe. 

Pickled  Huckleherides. — Take  seven  pounds  berries,  three  and 
hvilf  pounds  brown  sugar,  cinnamon,  mace,  and  cloves  to  taste  ; boil 
all  together,  then  add  one  pint  strong  vinegar,  boil  up  emd  can 
while  hot.  Blue-herries  prepared  in  same  way,  or  as  Peach  Pickles. 

Pickled  Raisins. — Leave  twm  pound  raisins  on  stem,  add  one 
pint  vinegar  and  half  pound  sugar ; simmer  half  an  hour,  then  can. 

Ripe  Cncumber  Pickles. — Cut  large,  ripe,  solid  cucumbers  in 
rings,  pare,  divide  into  smaller  pieces  and  remove  seeds,  cook  pieces 
very  slightly  in  weak  vinegar,  with  salt  enough  to  season  well,  drain, 
and  put  in  stone  jar  in  layers  with  a fev/  slices  of  onions,  some  cay- 
enne pepper,  whole  allspice,  whole  cloves,  bits  of  cinnamon  bark, 
and  celery  seed  (according  to  taste)  between  each  layer  of  cucum- 
ber. Then  cover  with  syrup  made  of  one  pound  sugar  to  one  quart 
cider  vinegar,  boiled  for  about  five  minutes.  Put  in  stone  jars  and 
cover  closely  or  can  as  directed.  Sprinkling  the  onion  slices  with 
a little  salt  and  sugar,  covering  with  vinegar  and  letting  stand  two 
or  three  hours  greatly  improves  the  pickles,  which  are  made  very 
nice  as  follows  ; After  cooking  in  the  weak  vinegar,  make  the 
syrup  and  pour  it  hot  over  them,  repeat  this  four  or  five  mornings, 
cooking  both  syrup  and  cucumbers  the  last  time  ; then  place  the 
iatter  in  cans  with  alternate  layers  of  onions  and  spices,  covering 
with  the  syrup  and  canning  as  above.  Some  first  soak  cucumber 
pieces  overnight  in  weak  vinegar  and  water,  then  parboil  in  same. 

Peach  Pickles. — Pare  freestone  peaches,  place  in  stone  jar,  and 
pour  over  them  boiling-hot  syrup  made  in  proportion  of  one  quart 
best  cider  vinegar  to  three  pints  “Coffee  C”  sugar ; boil  and  skim 
and  pour  over  the  fruit  boiling  hot,  repeating  each  day  for  five  days 
until  the  fruit  is  the  same  color  to  the  center,  and  the  syrup  like 
molasses.  Place  the  fruit,  after  draining  on  fifth  da}^  in  the  jar  to 
the  depth  of  three  or  four  inches,  then  sprinkle  over  bits  of  cinna- 
mon bark  and  a fev;  cloves,  and  another  layer  of  fruit,  then  spice. 


666 


SWEET  PICKLES. 


and  so  on  until  the  jar  is  full ; scald  the  syrup  each  morning  for  four 
more  days  and  pour  boiling  hot  over  fruit ; if  it  is  not  sufficiently 
cooked,  scald  fruit  with  the  syrup  the  last  time.  The  proportion  of 
spices  to  a gallon  of  fruit  is,  two  teaspoons  whole  cloves  and  four 
tablespoons  stick  cinnamon.  For  Clingstone  Pickles^  prepare  syrup 
as  for  freestones  ; pare  fruit,  put  in  the  syrup,  boil  until  they  can  be 
pierced  through  with  a silver  fork  ; skim  out,  place  in  jar,  pour  the 
boiling  syrup  over  them,  and  proceed  and  finish  as  above.  As 
clings  are  apt  to  become  hard  when  stewed  in  sweet  syrup,  it  may 
often  be  necessary  to  use  a pint  of  water  the  first  time  they  are 
cooked,  watching  carefully  until  they  are  tender,  or  to  use  only  part 
of  the  sugar  at  first,  adding  the  rest  in  a day  or  two.  Use  the  large 
White  Heath  clingstones.  Watch  pickles  as  directed  in  preface. 

Pear  Pickles. — Prepare  syrup  as  for  peaches,  pare  and  cut  fruit 
in  halves,  or  quarters  if  very  large,  and  if  small  leave  whole,  put 
syrup  in  porcelain  kettle,  and  when  it  boils  put  in  truit,  cook  until 
a silver  fork  will  easily  pierce  them  ; skim  out  fruit  first  and  place 
in  jar,  and  then  pour  over  syrup  boiling  hot ; spice  like  Peach  Pickles, 
draining  them  each  day,  boiling  and  skimming  syrup,  and  pouring 
it  boiling  hot  oyer  fruit  until  fully  done.  By  cooking  pears  at  first 
the  syrup  does  not  need  to  be  boiled  so  many  times  and  the  fruit 
does  not  need  to  be  again  cooked  in  syrup,  but  they  must  be  watched 
carefully  until  finished,  and  if  perfectly  done,  will  keep  two  or  more 
years.  Apple  Pickles  may  be  made  in  the  same  way,  taking  care 
to  select  such  as  will  not  lose  shape  in  boiling.  Or,  for  Gopher 
P ear  pickles.,  make  a syrup  of  one  pint  vinegar  and  four  pints 
sugar ; cook  five  or  ten  minutes,  skimming  if  necessary ; add  ten  or 
twelve  Bartlett  pears,  according  to  size,  and  three  or  four  pieces 
cinnamon  and  a dozen  cloves  tied  loosely  in  a square  of  cheese- 
cloth. Cook  fruit  as  above ; then  place  in  a glass  quart  can,  pre- 
pared as  in  Canning  Fruit ; fill  with  syrup,  seal  and  finish  as  di- 
rected. Add  more  fruit  to  kettle,  and  as  needed,  more  syrup  pre- 
pared as  above.  It  is  better  to  can  only  one  or  two  quarts  at  a 
time,  as  fruit  darkens  so  easily.  The  putting  of  enough  hot  syrup 
in  a bowl,  as  directed  in  preface,  with  which  to  fill  up  cans,  expe- 
dites matters  greatly.  Peaches  and  any  fruit  except  water-melon 
may  be  pickled  thus  and  will  greatly  resemble  brandied  fruit. 

StraiDherrij  Pickles. — Ten  pounds  strawberries,  five  and  a half 
pounds  brown  "sugar,  one  quart  cider  vinegar,  half  ounce  cloves,  and 
one  stick  of  cinnamon.  Place  the  strawberries  and  spices  in  alternate 
layers  in  deep  dish.  Boil  sugar  and  vinegar  three  minutes,  and 
pour  it  over  them,  letting  them  remain  until  next  day.  ^ The  second 
day  pour  liquor  off  and  boil  again  three  minutes,  returning  as  before 
to  the  berries.  Let  them  remain  until  the  third  day,  when  boil  all 
together  over  a slow  fire  for  half  an  hour.  Can  as  directed  in  Cam 
ing  Fruits.  Pine- Apple  Pickles  can  be  made  same  way. 


SWEET  PICKLES. 


667 


Chopped  Tomato  Pickles. — Take  eight  pounds  green  tomatoes 
and  chop  fine,  add  four  pounds  brown  sugar  and  boil  three  hours ; 
add  a quart  vinegar,  teaspoon  each  mace,  cinnamon  and  cloves,  and 
boil  about  fifteen  minutes;  let  cool  and  put  into  jars  or  other  ves- 
sels. Try  this  recipe  once  and  it  will  be  tried  again.  For  Sliced 
Tomato  Pickles^  wash  and  cut  off  ends  of  peck  green  tomatoes, 
slice,  sprinkle  with  salt  as  in  Cho})ped  Pickles  and  let  stand  over- 
night; drain,  and  cover  with  cold  weak  vinegar  for  twenty-four 
hours,  then  pour  all  in  kettle,  boil  ten  minutes  and  drain.  Make  a 
Single  Syrup,  as  directed,  when  hot  add  tomatoes,  boil  three  min- 
utes and  pack  in  jar  in  layers  with  spices,  as  in  Peach  Pickles. 

Ripe  Tomato  Pickles. — Pare  and  -weigh  ripe  tomatoes,  put  into 
jars  and  just  cover  with  vinegar  ; after  standing  three  days  pour  off 
vinegar  and  add  five  pounds  coffee  sugar  to  every  seven  of  fruit ; 
spice  to  taste,  using  cinnamon,  mace  and  a little  cloves,  if  preferred  ; 
when  hot,  add  tomatoes  and  cook  slowly  all  day  on  back  of  stove. 

Water-melon  Pickles. — Pare  off  very  carefully  the  green  part  of 
the  rind  of  a good,  firm,  ripe  water-melon,  trim  off  red  core,  cut  in 
pieces  one  or  two  inches  in  length,  or  in  fancy  shape  of  about  same 
size,  place  in  porcelain-lined  kettle,  in  proportion  of  one  gallon  rinds 
to  two  heaping  teaspoons  common  salt,  and  water  to  nearly  cover, 
boil  until  tender  enough  to  pierce  with  silver  fork,  pour  in  colander 
to  drain,  and  dry  by  taking  a few  pieces  at  a time  in  the  hand,  and 
pressing  gently  wdth  a crash  towel.  Make  syrup,  and  treat  rinds  ex- 
actly as  directed  for  Peach  Pickles.  Continue  adding  rinds,  as 
melons  are  used  at  table,  preparing  them  first  hy  cooking  in  salt 
water  as  above,  and  putting  them  in  jar  each  morning  before  heat- 
ing and  returning  the  syrup.  Those  added  must  be  put  in  bottom 
of  jar  and  some  hot  syrup  poured  immediately  over  them;  then  put 
back  those  first  pickled  and  pour  remainder  of  hot  syrup  over  all; 
when  as  many  are  prepared  'as  are  wanted,  and  they  are  nearly 
pickled,  drain,  spice,  and  finish  as  directed  in  Peach  Pickles,  except 
w^hen  the  syrup  is  boiled  the  last  time,  put  in  melons  and  boil  fif- 
teen minutes.  A rind  nearly  an  inch  thick,  crisp  and  tender,  is  best. 

Spiced  Blackberries. — Take  five  pounds  berries,  two  of  sugar, 
pint  vinegar,  two  tablespoons  each  cinnamon,  cloves,  and  allspice; 
heat  all  well  together,  skim  out  fruit  and  boil  syrup  one  hour ; re- 
turn fruit  and  boil  fifteen  minutes;  put  in  jars  and  cover  tight. 
Spiced  Currantsm^Y  be  prepared  same, adding  another  pound  sugar. 

Spiced  Cherries. — Boil  a quart  vinegar  with  three  and  a half 
pounds  sugar,  and  teaspoon  each  cinnamon  and  cloves,  and  pour 
over  three  and  a half  quarts  nice,  firm  cherries.  Next  day  drain  off 
vinegar,  boil  five  minutes,  return  to  cherries  and  repeat  three  days. 

Spiced  Currants. — Put  an  ounce  cinnamon,  half  ounce  cloves 
and  tablespoon  each  ground  mace  and  allspice  in  a bag  and  boil 


668 


SWEET  PICKLES. 


with  four  pounds  currants  and  two  of  sugar  to  a thick  syrup.  When 
nearl}^  done  add  a pint  vinegar  and  put  away  in  jelly  tumblers  or 
glass  cans.  Some  add  three  pounds  raisins,  and  one  pint  more  vin- 
egar. Or  for  Currant  Pickles  omit  the  spices. 

Spiced  Elderberries. — Take  four  pounds  sugar,  one  pint  vine- 
gar, six  pounds  berries  ; boil  one  tablespoon  ground  cinnamon,  tea- 
spoon each  ground  cloves  and  allspice,  in  the  vinegar ; strain,  add 
sugar,  boil  up,  then  add  berries  and  boil  two  hours. 

Spiced  Gooseberries. — Leave  stems  and  blossoms  cn  ripe  goose- 
berries and  wash  clean  ; make  a syrup  of  three  pints  sugar  to  one  of 
vinegar,  skim,  if  necessary,  add  berries  and  boil  till  thick,  adding 
more  sugar  if  needed  ; when  almost  done,  spice  with  cinnamon  and 
cloves  to  taste  and  boil  as  thick  as  apple  butter. 

Spiced  Grapes. — Six  pounds  grapes,  three  of  sugar,  two  tea- 
spoons each  cinnamon  and  allspice,  half  teaspoon  cloves  ; pulp  grapes, 
boil  skins  until  tender,  cook  pulps  and  strain  through  a sieve,  add 
to  skins,  put  in  sugar  and  spices  with  vinegar  to  taste  ; boil  thor- 
oughly, put  in  glasses  and  when  cool  cover  tightly. 

Spiced  Nutmeg  Melo7i. — Select  melons  not  quite  ripe ; open, 
scrape  out  the  pulp,  peel,  and  slice ; put-  in  a stone  jar,  and  for  five 
pounds  fruit  scald  a quart  vinegar,  and  two  and  a half  pounds  su- 
gar together,  and  pour  over  the  fruit ; pour  off  and  scald  the  syrup 
and  pour  over  the  fruit  each  day  for  eight  successive  days.  On  the 
nintli,  add  one  ounce  each  stick  cinnamon,  whole  cloves  and  all- 
spice. Scald  fruit,  vinegar  and  spices  together,  and  seal  up  in  jars. 
This  pickle  should  stand  two  or  three  months  before  using.  Blue 
Plums  are  delicious  prepared  in  this  way. 

Spiced  Peaches. — Boil  three  pounds  sugar  and  a pint  and  a 
half  vinegar  with  ounce  whole  cloves  and  two  of  stick  cinnamon  ; 
two  or  three  of  the  former,  with  their  beads  off,  may  be  stuck  in 
each  peach ; then  put  in  seven  pounds  peeled  peaches  and  let  them 
heat  through  thoroughly.  Skim  out  fruit  and  put  in  stone  jars, 
]joil  syrup  until  thick  and  pour  over  peaches.  Pears.,  Plums,  and 
Cherries  may  be  prepared  same  way. 

Spiced  Plums.— ^qC\.  two  quarts  vinegar  with  six  pounds  sugar 
and  an  ounce  cinnamon,  with  half  ounce  whole  cloves,  if  liked,  and 
pour  over  nine  pounds  blue  plums ; next  morning  drain  off  vinegar, 
boil  and  pour  back  on  plums ; repeat  this  five  mornings,  boiling  the 
fruit  in  the  vinegar  the  last  morning  about  twenty  minutes. 

Spiced  Tomatoes. — Peel  and  slice  seven  pounds  ripe  tomatoes, 
put  in  preserving  kettle,  with  half  their  weight  in  sugar,  a pint  vin- 
egar, and  tablespoon  each  whole  cloves,  allspice,  pepper-corns,  salt, 


SWEET  PICKLES. 


669 


and  teaspoon  mace ; boil  slowly  two  hours,  stirring  often  enough  to 
prevent  burning ; then  cool  in  kettle,  and  put  in  self-sealing  cans. 

Cayenne  Vinegar. — Put  a pint  vinegar  in  bottle  with  a half 
ounce  cayenne  pepper  and  let  stand  a month ; then  strain  and  bot- 
tle for  use.  An  excellent  seasoning  for  soups  and  sauces,  but  must 
be  used  sparingly. 

Celery  Vinegar. — Crush  one-fourth  ounce  celery  seed  by  pound- 
ing in  a mortar ; boil  a pint  vinegar,  and  when  cold,  pour  on  the 
seed  ; let  stand  two  weeks,  then  strain  and  bottle  for  use.  A good 
substitute  for  celery  in  salads,  etc.  If  wanted  strong  use  double  the 
quantity  of  seed. 

Chilli  Vinegar. — Put  fifty  chopped  or  bruised  chillies,  cayenne 
pepper  pods,  into  a pint  best  vinegar,  let  stand  a month,  then  strain 
and  bottle.  This  makes  a much  stronger  vinegar  than  the  cayenne. 

Cider  Vinegar. — To  make  a small  quantity  put  a pound  white 
sugar  in  a gallon  cider,  shake  well  together  and  leave  to  ferment 
four  months,  when  a strong  well-flavored  vinegar  will  result.  For 
directions  for  making  vinegar  in  large  quantities,  see  Kitchen. 

Clover  Vinegar —YvX  a quart  molasses  in  a crock,  and  pour 
over  it  nine  quarts  boiling  rain  water ; let  stand  until  milk-warm,  put 
in  two  quarts  clover  blossoms,  and  two  cups  baker’s  yeast;  let  stand 
two  weeks,  and  strain  through  a towel.  Nothing  will  mold  in  it. 

Cucumher  Vinegar. — Pare  and  slice  fifteen  large  cucumbers, 
and  four  large  onions  and  put  in  stone  jar  with  two  or  three  shal- 
lots, a little  garlic,  two  tablespoons  salt,  three  teaspoons  pepper, 
and  half  teaspoon  cayenne.  Leave  for  four  days  then  boil  up  and 
when  cold,  strain  till  clear  and  bottle  for  use. 

Elder-dower  Vinegar. — Gather  the  buds  of  elder-flowers,  and 
to  every  half  peck  add  one  gallon  vinegar,  leaving  it  a fortnight  in 
jug  to  ferment.  Then  strain  through  a flannel  bag,  put  into  it  a 
small  bit  of  dissolved  gellatine,  and  bottle.  The  flavor  of  the  herbs 
may  also  be  extracted  by  boiling  the  herbs  or  leaves  in  vinegar, 
v/ithout  fermentation ; a mixture  of  tarragon  leaves  and  elder-flow- 
ers is  very  agreeable. 

Horse-radish  Vinegar. — Take  six  tablespoons  grated  horse- 
radish, one  of  white  sugar,  and  a quart  vinegar;  scald  the  vinegar 
and  pour  boiling  hot  over  the  horse-radish  and  sugar.  Let  stand  a 
week,  strain  and  bottle.  Or,  take  three  ounces  grated  horse-radish, 
a drachmcayenne  pepper,  an  ounce  of  shallots,  chopped  or  minced 
very  fine,  and  pour  over  them  a quart  good  vinegar;  let  stand  a 
fortnight,  strain  and  bottle. 

Garlic  Vinegar. — Pour  a quart  best  vinegar  over  two  ounces 
peeled  and  bruised  garlic.  Bottle  and  cork  tightly  and  in  two  or 


670 


SWEET  PICKLES. 


three  weeks  it  may  be  strained  off  for  use.  A tew  drops  will  flavor 
a sauce  or  tureen  of  gravy.  More  or  less  garlic  may  be  used  as 
liked.  Shallot  Vinegar  made  same  way. 

Mint  Vinegar. — Put  into  a wide-mouthed  bottle  enough  fresh, 
clean  peppermint,  spearmint,  or  garden  parsley  leaves  to  fill  it 
loosely ; fill  up  with  good  vinegar,  cork  closely,  leave  two  or  three 
weeks,  pour  off  into  another  bottle,  and  keep  well  corked  for  use. 
This  IS  excellent  for  cold  meats,  soups  and  bread-dressings  for  roasts 

Nasturtium  Vinegar.- — Pick  full-blown  nasturtium  flow^ers  and 
fill  a wide-mouthed  bottle,  add  a half  clove  of  garlic  and  a mod':'r- 
ate  sized  shallot  chopped^  fill  up  with  vinegar  ; let  stand  two  months  ; 
then  strain  and  add  a little  cayenne  pepper  and  salt= 

Oyster  Vinegar. — Boil  oysters  in  strong  vinegar,  until  the  vin- 
egar is  highly  flavored ; add  clove,  mace,  and  pepper,  to  suit  the 
taste,  strain  and  bottle. 

Peach  Vinegar. —Cvsick  one  pint  peach  stones  and  blanch  the 
kernels  by  throwing  them  into  boiling  water,  then  in  cold ; pull  off 
skin  and  cover  with  best  cold  vinegar,  and  cork  tightlyc 

Red  Vinegar. a head  of  garlic  and  put  in  bottle  with 
half  ounce  cayenne,  two  teaspoon.,  each  soy  and  walnut  catsup,  a 
pint  vinegar  and  cochineal  to  coloro  Let  stand  a month,  then  strain 
and  keep  in  small  bottles. 

Spiced  Vinegar. — Put  thrs  pounds  sugar  in  three-gallon  jar 
with  small  mouth ; mix  two  ounces  each  mace,  cloves,  pepper,  all- 
spice, turmeric,  celery  seed,  white  ginger  in  small  bits,  and  ground 
mustard ; put  in  six  small  bags  made  of  thin  but  strong  muslin,  lay 
in  ajar  fill  with  best  cider  vinegar,  and  use  it  in  making  pickles 
and  sauces.  Or  if  wanted  to  use  at  once,  for  every  quart  vinegar 
take  two  rounded  teaspoons  each  cinnamon  and  cloves,  one  each  of 
celery  salt  or  seed,  saltspoon  black  pepper  and  pinch  of  cayenne. 

Tarragon  Vinegar. — Gather  tarragon  leaves  just  before  the 
plant  blossoms,  strip  from  the  larger  stalks  and  put  into  small  stone 
jars  or  wide-necked  bottle;  in  doing  this  twist  the  branches,  bruis- 
ing the  leaves.  Pour  over  vinegar  enough  to  covei,  allowing  six  or 
eight  handfuls  to  a gallon  vinegar;  let  stand  two  months  or  longer, 
pour  off,  strain,  and  put  into  small  dry  bottles,  cork  well  and  use  as 
sauce  for  meats.  This  is  very  nice  to  use  in  Salad  Dressings. 

Walnut  Vinegar. — Put  green  walnut  shells  in  brine  of  salt  and 
water,  strong  enough  to  float  an  egg,  and  leave  covered  ten  days ; 
take  out  and  lay  in  sun  a week,  then  put  in  jar  and  pour  boiling 
vinegar,  over ; in  a week  or  ten  days  drain  off  and  reheat  the  vinegar, 
pouring  it  over  the  shells  again.  Will  be  ready  for  use  in  a month. 
ExCGllGIlt  with  cold  meat  and  nice  for  making  sauces. 


POTATOES. 


671 


POTATOES. 


As  there  is  not  any  other  vegetable  so  much  used  as  the  potato^ 
especially  in  winter  and  early  spring,  the  housekeeper  should  have 
a variety  of  recipes  from  which  to  select  the  daily  bill  of  fare ; and 
should  also  be  wise  in  the  art  of  cooking  ‘‘only  a potato this  little 
saying  conveying  the  abuse  to  which  this  vegetable  is  subjected. 
Potatoes  are  composed  largely  of  starch,  and  cooking  bursts  the 
cells  and  sets  the  starch  free,  and  at  this  stage  a boiled  or  baked 
potato  should  be  served,  as  it  will  then  be  dry  and  mealy ; but  if 
allowed  to  cook  longer,  the  starch  absorbs  the  moisture  and  a 
soggy,  flavorless  potato  results ; another  secret  of  having  potatoes 
mealy  and  palatable  is  to  cook  them  rapidly,  and  it  is  important  to 
begin  to  cook  them  at  the  ri,ght  time  and  have  them  as  near  the  same 
size  as  possible  in  order  to  serve  when  just  done.  In  latter  part  of 
vinter  potatoes  are  so  watery  that  it  is  much  better  to  steam  them, 
and  always,  when  to  be  mashed  or  used  for  made-dishes,  peeling 
and  steaming  is  preferable,  using  srreat  care  in  the  paring,  as  the 
best  part  oii]iQ  potato  lies  next  to  the  skin  and  for  this  reason  in 
boiling  potatoes,  it  m better  to  wash  with  a little  brush,  or  a swab 
made  by  wrapping  a cloth  around  a stick,  as  great  care  must  be 
taken  to  have  them  perfectly  clean,  then  cook,  peel  and  serve ; or 
serve  in  their  jackets,  which  is  preferred  by  many.  The  only  ex- 
ception to  thus  cooking,  is  in  the  late  spring,  for  the  skin  of  an  old 
potato  contains  a narcotic  property  which  gives  a disagreeable  flavor 
if  not  peeled  before  cooking.  But  however  cooked,  potatoes  must 
be  served  hot.  When  intended  to  be  mashed  or  used  in  made- 
dishes,  if  boiled,  pare  and  cook  without  salt  2^^  it  greatly  impairs 
their  flavor;  the  seasoning  being  added  afterwards.  Always  pare 


672 


POTATOES, 


potatoes  left  from  a meal  at  once^  as  they  pare  so  much  easier  when 
warm,  causing  no  waste ; except  baked  ones,  which  do  not  pare  till 
cold ; but  do  not  slice  for  use  until  wanted.  One  must  exercise  care 
in  not  cooking  too  many  potatoes  every  day,  thus  requiring  the 
same  time  in  preparing  the  residue  in  some  edible  form,  as  would 
be  consumed  in  preparing  some  more  desirable  dish  from  fresh 
ones,  the  cost  also  of  preparing  them  being  more  than  of  the  latter, 
owing  to  the  additions  required  to  make  them  palatable.  ‘When 
recipes  call  for  cream,  milk  slightly  thickened,  and  a little  butter 
can  he  used ; and  in  cooking  with  either,  a custard  kettle  avoids  all 
danger  of  scorching.  Old  potatoes,  may  be  greatly  improved  by 
being  soaked  in  cold  water  several  hours  after  peeling,  putting  in 
immediately  as  exposure  to  air  darkens,  being  particular  to  change 
the  water  once  or  twice,  and  wipe  dry  with  a t w 1 b fore  putting  on 
to  boil.  This  freshens  them  and  makes  them  crioper,  although  some 
claim  they  really  become  more  tasteless.  Nevj  ripe  potatoes  are 
best  baked ; full  grown,  ripe  ones  may  be  either  boiled  or  baked  ; 
medium-sized  smooth  ones  are  best  to  use,  the  kind  varying  with 
the  season.  When  cooking  in  water,  use  soft  water,  filtered,  or  if 
hard  add  small  pinch  soda  and  have  it  either  cold  or  boiling,  never 
tepid ; for  fuller  directions  see  Boiled  Potatoes.  Although  some 
prefer  a ‘‘bone”  in  potatoes,  to  be  wholesome  they  should  be  thorough- 
ly cooked  whether  baked,  boiled,  fried  or  steamed.  Never  waste  cold 
cooked  potatoes,  as  in  winter  they  can  be  kept  till  sufficient  for  a 
dish  of  themselves,  or  at  any  time  may  be  made  in  croquettes,  hash, 
etc.,  with  meat  or  other  vegetables,  or  sliced  and  added  to  a soup  or 
stew.  Potatoes  being  of  a farinaceous  nature  absorb  fat,  and  so 
prove  to  be  a good  ingredient  in  Meat  Pies.  Potato  Flour  is  dry 
starch  powder,  procured  from  the  potato  and  is  much  used  in  French 
cookery ; it  can  be  bought  in  this  country,  and  in  fact  is  often  sold 
for  arrowroot,  to  which  it  is  inferior.  More  so  than  any  other  vege- 
table do  potatoes  differ  in  quality,  according  to  variety  and  manner 
of  culture.  However  the  main  crop  may  be  raised,  every  farmer’s 
wife  should  secure  for  late  spring  use  a supply  of  a choice  variety 
cultivated  entirely  in  rotten-wood  soil  or  in  soil  where  wood  ashes  and 
gypsum  are  used  as  fertilizers.  As  potatoes  enter  so  largely  into  the 
daily  breakfast,  dinner  and  supper  of  Americans,  care  should  be 
exercised  in  their  seasoning ; not  using  too  much  pepper  and  salt. 
There  are  many  who  do  not  use  either,  but  each  must  be  a law  unto 


POTATOES. 


673 


himself,  only  we  wonlcl  advise  white  pepper,  if  pepper  must  be  used, 
as  it  is  more  mild  and  looks  better.  The  first  new  potatoes  received 
in  the  markets  in  the  spring  are  the  Bermudas^  arriving  in  April. 
About  the  first  of  June  come  the  Charlestons ; about  the  20th, the  Nor- 
folhs^  and  late  in  June  those  from  New  Jersey  and  Long  Island.  The 
old  potatoes  are  at  this  time  scarce,  poor,  and  not  much  used.  Always 
drop  potatoes  in  cold  water  vv^hen  paring  as  they  darken  quickly. 

The  sweet  potato  is  of  quite  a different  species  from  the  com- 
mon and  is  a lighter  food,  but  is  sweet,  wholesome  and  more  nu- 
tritious. Two  varieties  are  mostly  used,  the  red  or  purple,  and  the 
white  or  yellow  and  are  in  season  from  August  till  December ; after 
which  they  begin  to  loose  their  flavor,  and  in  the  spring  become 
spongy,  and  almost  uneatable.  Freezing  does  not  injure  them  for 
though  frozen  hard  as  stones,  their  flavor  and  firmness  are  pre- 
served, if  baked  at  once  without  being  thawed.  Clean  them  with  a 
brush  or  dry  towel,  put  them  in  the  heated  oven  and  bake.  If  thd-wed, 
even  in  cold  water,  they  are  soft  and  worthless.  This  is  also  true 
of  Irish  potatoes. 


Baked  Potatoes. — Select  the  largest  and  as  near  the  same  size 
as  possible.  Wash,  brush  and  place  in  oven  so  that  they  do  not 
touch  each  other,  turn  as  needed  and  do  not  let  them  scorch ; bake 
till  tender  in  a hot  oven,  testing  by  taking  up  between  a cloth,  and 
if  they  yield  to  pressure,  they  are  done.  Press  each  one  thus  as  it 
makes  them  mealier,  and  serve  at  once  covered  with  a napkin,  for 
baked  potatoes  to  be  in  their  prime  must  be  served  when  done,  al- 
though if  they  must  be  kept,  roll  in  a clean  cloth  and  put  in  a warm 
place.  A large  potato  wfill  bake  in  an  hour.  For  Quick-Baked 
Potatoes.)  prepare  as  above,  cook  in  boiling  water  fifteen  or  twenty 
minutes,  drain  and  place  in  a hot  oven  till  skins  are  well  browned — 
about  eight  or  ten  minutes,  press  and  serve  as  above.  Potatoes 
baked  in  ashes,  known  best  as  Roasted  Potatoes  are  very  delicious, 
and  are  considered  the  most  wholesome  and  delicate  way  of  pre- 
paring them.  Scrape  away  ashes,  put  in  potatoes,  cover  with  pure 
ashes  first,  and  then  hot  coals.  Or,  if  With  Meat,  peel  and  place 
in  pan,  around  the  meat,  not  touching  each  other,  generally  about 
three  quarters  of  an  hour  before  meat  is  done.  See  that  the  pan 
contains  plenty  of  drippings,  baste  the  potatoes  often  and  with 
proper  heat  they  will  be  brown  and  crisp  without,  and  white  and 
mealy  within.  Some  boil  half  done,  peel,  roll  in  flour,  place 
in  pan  and  finish  as  above.  It  is  better  to  halve  very  old 
and  large  potatoes  when  baking  with  meat,  and  some  always 
43 


674 


POTATOES. 


let  them  stand  in  cold  water  an  hour  or  so  before  baking.  Or, 
With  Sauce,  peel  and  bake  in  a moderate  oven  till  tender ; make 
the  sauce  by  stirring  into  a pint  boiling  milk  tablespoon  corn- 
starch, beaten  smooth  in  a little  cold  milk,  cook  five  minutes  ; take 
from  fire  and  add  a half  cup  sweet  cream,  piece  of  butter  and  the 
well-beaten  whites  of  two  eggs,  a little  pepper  and  salt.  Serve  on 
platter  with  potatoes  in  center,  or  separately  in  sauce-boat.  For 
Larded  Potatoes,  peel,  and  with  an  apple  corer  take  out  a piece 
lengthwise  through  the  center,  insert  bits  of  salt  pork,  ham  or 
bacon  and  bake  till  tender,  in  a two-quart  baking  dish  and  serve  in 
same.  The  cores  can  be  used  in  soup  or  in  mashed  potatoes.  Or 
for  Glazed  Potatoes,  wash  medium-sized  potatoes,  peel  out  any  de- 
fective places,  put  in  dripping  pan  in  a moderately  hot  oven  and 
bake  till  tender,  brush  with  melted  butter  or  Pastry  Glaze,  let  re- 
main a moment  to  brown,  then  serve.  Using  the  Glaze  as  given  in 
Gravies  makes  them  delicious. 

Boiled  Pototoes  With  Jachets. — Wash,  brush  (keep  a small  flat 
brush  just  for  this  purpose),  cut  off  ends  and  any  bad  specks  and  if 
quite  old,  let  stand  in  cold  water  an  hour  or  two.  Cook  in  soft  fil- 
tered water  if  possible,  but  if  hard  water  is  used,  put  in  a small 
pinch  (>f  soda.  The  water  should  be  freshly  drawn  if  used  cold,  and 
should  only  be  put  over  fire  in  time  to  reach  the  boiling  point  be- 
fore the  hour  for  putting  in  potatoes,  as  standing  and  long  boiling 
frees  the  gases  and  renders  the  water  insipid.  As  regards  the  tem- 
perature in  which  to  cook  them, have  w^ater  either  cold  or  boiling  never 
lukewarm  and  the  kind  of  potato  will  govern  that ; those  potatoes 
that  crack  very  soon  in  boiling  water,  presenting  a mealy  appear- 
ance on  the  outside  while  the  heart  is  uncooked,  should  be  put  on 
in  cold  water,  and  for  those  that  do  not  cook  very  quickly  use 
boiling.  Do  not  drown  them  in  water,  using  only  enough  io  just 
cover  and  some  use  even  less.  Do  not  let  the  water  stop  boiling  as 
they  will  then  be  watery,  but  it  must  not  boil  too  hard  as  that 
breaks  them.  Some  place  napkin  uixler  the  lid  to  keep  in  all  the 
steam.  As  regards  salting  the  water  or  potatoes,  there  is  a great 
difference  of  opinion,  but  the  best  housekeepers  do  not  use  any  salt 
till  after  potatoes  are  done,  or  some  add  it  ten  minutes  before.  Test 
with  a fork  and  when  tender,  not  longer,  drain  off  all  the  water ; if 
left  on  after  they  are  done  they  become  watery  and  waxy,  sprinkle 
with  salt,  shake  saucepan  lightly,  leave  uncovered  a few  minutes, 
that  all  steam  may  evaporate  ; then  place  on  back  of  range  or  stove, 
leaving  cover  only  partly  on,  or  better,  covering  with  a clean  folded 
towel,  as  the  moisture  condenses  on  the  inside  of  lid  when  they  are 
tightly  covered  and  falls  upon  potatoes,  spoiling  them.  Potatoes  thus 
prepared  will  keep  good,  quite  awhile ; but  are  better  served  at  once 
in  an  open  dish  vnth  a naphin  over  them,  for  the  same  reason  as 
given  above,  the  moisture  making  them  soft  and  watery.  This  is 


POTATOES, 


675 


the  great  secret  of  having  nice  mealy  potatoes.  A pretty  way  is  to 
have  a Potato  Doily  made  as  the  Fritter  Doily,  page  291 ; lay  in 
dish,  put  in  potatoes  then  bring  the  ends  up  over  them  ; of  course 
two  ordinary  napkins  may  be  used  instead.  Potatoes  can  be  peeled 
before  serving  if  wished.  Always  select  same  size,  if  possible,  that 
they  may  be  done  at  same  time,  as  too  much  cooking  spoils  a po- 
tato. If  using  different  sizes,  put  in  largest  first,  then  in  a little 
while  the  rest,  and  one  can  plan  to  use  the  smaller  potatoes  for 
mashing  or  in  any  of  the  dishes  where  small  potatoes  are  used. 
Some  claim  that  after  draining  off  water,  taking  them  to  the  open 
air  and  shaking  them  makes  them  more  mealy.  Never  place  them 
on  a hot  fire  after  draining,  but  on  bricks  on  stove,  or  on  back 
of  range.  The  best  potato  for  boiling  is  a medium-sized  one  and 
not  too  old  or  sunburnt.  Medium-sized  potatoes,  when  young,  will 
cook  in  from  twenty  to  thirty  minutes  ; when  old,  it  requires  double 
the  time.  When  peeled,  they  boil  fifteen  minutes  quicker.  If  po- 
tatoes are  very  watery  and  must  be  used  for  food,  a small  lump 
of  lime  added  to  the  water  while  boiling  will  improve  them.  Dashed 
Potatoes^  are  boiled  as  above,  in  boiling  unsalted  water;  when 
tender,  dash  some  cold  water  into  pot ; let  potatoes  remain  two 
minutes,  and  then  drain  off  water;  half  remove  the  pot  lid,  and 
let  the  potatoes  remain  on  back  of  stove  till  steam  is  evaporated  ; 
peel  amd  serve  in  an  open  dish.  Another  way  of  boiling  is  to  pare 
a strip  about  quarter  of  an  inch  wide,  lengthwise,  around  each  po- 
tato ; place  in  fresh  cold  water,  not  too  much,  let  boil  fifteen  min- 
utes, then  add  a quart  of  cold  water  ; when  the  edges  of  the  peel  curl 
up,  salt  and  remove  potatoes  to  baking  pan  ; place  in  oven  with  a 
towel  over  them,  and  let  remain  fifteen  minutes  with  oven  door  open, 
then  serve  as  above.  But  however  boiled,  if  they  cannot  be  served 
at  once,  wrap  closely  in  a towel  and  put  in  a warm  place  and  they  will 
keep  quite  nicely.  For  Waterless  PotaAoes^  select  same  size, not  too  old 
or  sun-burnt,  wash,  brush,  but  do  not  pare  or  cut ; put  in  flat-bot- 
tomed saucepan,  filling  three-fourths  full,  cover  tightly,  this  is  very 
necessary,  and  place  on  stove  with  a moderately  hot  fire,  or  in  oven. 
Shake  saucepan  occasionally  but  do  not  lift  cover  before  forty  min- 
utes. As  soon  as  tender  peel,  or  leave  in  jackets,  and  serve.  They 
take  longer  time  for  cooking  but  are  said  to  be  of  delicious  flavor. 

Boiled  Potatoes  Without  Jackets. — Pare  and  put  in  fresh  boil- 
ing water.  Keep  closely  covered  and  at  a steady  boil  for  at  least 
twenty  minutes,  five  or  ten  minutes  more  may  be  requisite,  accord- 
ing to  the  quality  of  potato.  Watch  carefully,  and  the  very  instant 
they  present  a mealy  and  broken  surface  remove  from  stove,  raise 
cover  just  enough  to  admit  the  draining  off  of  water.  This  may  be 
accomplished  successfully  and  quickly,  after  a little  practice,  and  is 
far  better  than  turning  them  into  a colander,  thus  suddenly  chilling 
them  and  arresting  further  development  of  the  starch,  which,  after 


676 


POTATOES. 


all,  is  the  main  point  to  be  accomplished.  Drain  water  off  thor- 
oughly and  quickly,  sprinkle  in  sufficient  salt  for  seasoning,  partly 
cover  saucepan,  give  it  a shake  and  set  on  back  of  stove,  being  care- 
ful not  to  have  it  too  hot.  In  a minute  or  so  give  it  another  shake 
to  stir  up  potatoes,  throw  in  a little  hot  cream  or  rich  milk  with  a 
lump  of  butter  and  a sprinkle  of  pepper,  cover  immediately  and 
leave  on  stove  for  another  minute.  This  last  process  adds  greatly 
in  making  a mealy  potato.  They  are  ready  now  to, be  dished  whole 
or  mashed.  It  is  always  best  to  pare  old  potatoes.  Or  for  Iloosier 
Potatoes^  pare  small  old  potatoes,  or  cut  large  ones  to  size  of  new  ; 
place  in  cold  water,  let  boil  ten  minutes,  drain,  cover  with  cold 
water,  boil  and  drain  as  before ; repeat  this  once  more,  then  after 
draining,  dress  with  milk,  butter,  pepper  and  salt  as  New  Potatoes. 


Frying  Basket. 


Boiled  New  Potatoes. — Wash,  scrape,  or  only  rub  with  a cloth, 
boil  ten  minutes,  turn  olT  water,  and  add  enough  more  boiling  hot. 
to  cover,  also  add  a little  salt ; cook  a few  moments,  test  by  press^ 
ing  one  of  the  potatoes  with  a fork  against  the  side  of  the  saucepaii, 
if  done  it  will  yield  to  a gentle  pressure,  drain,  and  set  again  ou 
stove,  add  butter,  salt,  a pint  cream  or  milk,  thickened  with  twc 
tablespoons  flour,  put  on  cover,  and  when  milk  has  boiled,  serve. 
Do  not  use  too  much  water  as  they  will  boil  more  quickly,  and  are 
more  savory  if  cooked  in  just  enough  water  to  keep  from  burning. 
Boiling  water  is  generally  considered  best  for  new  potatoes,  always 
cooking  in  two  waters  as  above  ; some  use  a wire  basket, 
placing  it  in  a kettle  of  boiling  water,  then  have 
ready  another  saucepan  of  boiling  water,  and  when  the 
potatoes  are  half  cooked  lift  them  from  the  first  and 
put  them  in  the  second.  (This  is  considered  equally 
nice  for  old  potatoes).  Serve  with  a dressing  of  melted 
butter ; taking  for  each  quart  potatoes,  two  tablespoons  butter,  tea- 
spoon salt  and  saltspoon  white  pepper ; and  after  placing  potatoes  in 
hot  dish,  pour  it  over  them.  Or  make  a dressing  of  cream  and  butter 
but  not  boiling,  a little  green  parsley,  pepper  and  salt ; place  pota- 
toes in  pan,  add  this,  let  stand  a minute  or  two  over  hot  v/ater,  and 
serve  in  a hot  dish.  If  potatoes  are  too  old  to  have  skins  rubbed 
off,  boil  them  in  their  jackets,  paring  offaring  half  inch  wide  around 
them  ; drain,  peel,  and  serve  as  above.  Or  for  Broimied  New  Po- 
tatoes when  cooked  and  drained,  put  in  a skillet  with  hot  drippings, 
cover,  and  shake  till  a nice  brown,  and  add,  when  ready  to  dish,  a 
tablespoon  baking  molasses,  dropping  it  on  the  pocatoes  and  stirring 
constantly  a moment  or  two,  as  it  causes  them  ro  burn  easily,  then 
serving  at  once.  The  molasses  browns  them  beautifully  and-  makes 
them  delicious.  This  is  a nice  way  to  brown  any  potatoes.  Using 
Parsley  Butter  in  the  melted  butter  dressing,  makes  a savory  dish. 

Breakfast  Potatoes. — Peel,  cut  in  ve^  y thin  slices  and  place  in 
a mry  little  boiling  water,  so  little  that  It  will  all  be  evaporated 


POTATOES. 


677 


when  they  are  cooked  ; when  done  add  salt  to  taste,  some  cream,  or 
a very  little  milk  and  a bit  of  butter.  Or  cook  in  water  as  above, 
then  prepare  a dressing  as  follows  : Put  a tablespoon  butter  in  a 
saucepan,  with  one  of  flour,  flavor  with  pepper  and  salt,  chopped 
parsley  and  onion^ ; mix  well  and  add  a cup  of  cream,  stir  till  it 
boils ; put  in  potatoes,  boil  up  once  and  serve  hot.  They  must 
be  stirred  occasionally  while  cooking.  Or  omit  all  dressing,  drain, 
place  in  a hot  dish,  add  a little  salt,  a few  bits  of  butter,  and  serve 
at  once.  The  slices  may  be  steamed,  it  will  take  twice  as  long,  but 
they  are  much  better.  Or  for  Marinated  Potatoes^  cut  in  half 
inch  slices  and  cook  in  higlily  seasoned  and  flavored  soup  or  gravy 
stock;  vdien  just  tender  dip  in  beaten  egg,  or  single-bread  them  if 
wished,  and  fry,  drain  and  serve  like  Fritters.  Squeezing  over  a 
little  lemon  juice  is  an  addition. 

Broiled  Potatoes. — Boil  a quart  of  even-sized  potatoes  until 
tender,  but  do  not  let  them  grow  mealy ; drain  off  water,  peel,  cut 
in  half  inch  slices,  dip  in  melted  butter,  and  broil  on  both  sides 
over  a moderate  Are  ; serve  hot,  seasoning  with  salt  and  pepper  and 
bits  of  butter.  Some  dip  in  sifted  bread-crumbs  after  dipping  in 
butter.  Or  slice  cold  boiled  potatoes  lengthwise  and  broil  as  above, 
omitting  the  dipping  if  wished.  The  double  broiler  is  nice  for 
broiled  potatoes  when  sliced.  Or  parboil,  do  not  peel,  but  place 
them  whole  on  the  gridiron  over  a very  slovr  fire,  when  thoroughly 
done  serve  in  their  jackets.  For  Breaded  Potatoes.,  slice  as  in  first 
two  recipes,  single-bread  (page  299)  and  fry  in  butter  or  drippings. 

Browned.  Potatoes. — Steam  or  boil  small-sized  potatoes,  till 
tender,  not  mealy,  peel  and  place  in  saucepan  with  melted  jj’utter, 
shake  occasionally  and  when  all  are  weil  browned  serve  U])on  thin 
slices  of  toast  which  have  been  dipped  in  Chilli  Sauce  that  has  been 
thinned  with  a little  weak  vinegar.  Or  the  toast  may  be  omitted. 
This  is  a nice  way  to  use  the  small  potatoes,  amd  is  especially  nice 
for  old  ones.  They  may  also  be  fried  in  smoking-hot  fat  as  dough- 
nuts. Or  single-bread  them  and  fry  in  either  of  above  ways. 

Creamed  Potatoes. — Slice  raw  potatoes  thin  as  for  frying,  let 
stand  in  salted  water  for  an  hour  or  so  to  c^isp  them;  drain,  and 
place  a layer  in  bottom  of  a buttered,  earthen  baking  dish,  dredge 
with  flour  and  cover  with  bits  of  butter  and  a light  seasoning  of 
salt,  then  more  potatoes,  flour,  butter  and  salt  t>.d  all  are  used  ; to  a 
quart  dish  add  about  a half  pint  cream  or  rich  milk  and  bake  in 
oven  till  tender,  about  forty  minutes.  Or  the  sliced  potatoes  can 
all  be  put  in  dish  at  once,  seasoned  and  the  cream  or  milk  poured 
over,  adding  bits  of  butter ; or  some  prefer  to  cook  first,  then  place 
butter  as  above,  over  the  top,  returning  to  oyen  a moment  and  serv- 
ing when  nicely  browned.  The  exact  quantity  of  honid  can  be 
learned  by  experience ; there  must  be  just  a little  ric>  tra^'W 


678 


POTATOES. 


moistening  all  the  slices.  This  is  an  especially  nice  way  to  cook  old 
or  small  potatoes.  For  Fricasseed  Potatoes  slice  cold  boiled  pota- 
toes, put  into  a dripping-pan,  add  milk,  salt,  pepper  and  small  piece 
of  blitter,  allowing  half  pint  milk  to  a dozen  potatoes  ; place  in  oven 
for  about  fifteen  minutes,  stir  occasionally  with  a knife  to  keep  from 
burning,  and  brown  slightly  on  top. 

Curried  Potatoes. — Slice  either  raw  or  cold  boiled  potatoes, 
fry,  then  add  a gravy  made  of  soup  stock,  seasoned  with  curr3^-pow- 
der,  and  boil  a few  moments.  Or  boil  or  steam  potatoes,  mash  and 
add  a little  cream  or  milk,  seasoned  as  above  ; serve,  first  ornament- 
ing the  top  of  dish  with  little  slips  of  cold  boiled  ham. 

Diced  Potatoes.— -Ovii  cold  boiled  or  steamed  potatoes  cross- 
wise in  inch  slices  ; then  cut  in  dice.  Season  with  salt  and  pe])per, 
dip  in  melted  butter,  then  dust  lightly  with  flour.  Arrange  on 
baking  pans,  bake  in  a quick  oven  and  serve  hot.  Or  make  half- 
inch slices,  cut  in  dice  and  fr}^  in  a little  butter,  cream  and  flour 
seasoned  with  pepper  and  salt,  till  hot  and  nicely  coated  with  the 
sauce.  Or,  In  a Cake^  chop  in  small,  even  dice ; season  palatabh^ 
wifh  salt  and  pepper,  moisten  slight!}^  with  cream,  cold  gravy,  or 
white  sauce,  and  form  in  a large  cake,  which  must  be  pressed  to- 
gether so  that  it  can  be  browned  uniformly  on  the  side  next  the 
pan  ; heat  a frying-pan,  put  into  it  enough  sweet  drippings  or  but- 
ter to  cover  bottom,  when  fat  is  hot  put  in  the  potatoes,  press  them 
well  together,  and  brown  the  under  side ; when  the  potatoes  are 
brown,  turn  them  out  of  the  pan  on  a hot  dish,  without  breaking 
them,  and  serve  them  hot.  This  requires  a very  moderate  fire  as 
they  are  apt  to  burn. 

Fried  Potatoes. — To  be  successful  in  thus  cooking  potatoes, 
the  frying-pan  should  be  well  heated  before  butter,  lard  or  drip- 
pings is  put  in,  and  then  made  quite  hot  over  not  too  brisk  a fire ; 
for  Fried  Raw  Potatoes.^  wash,  peel,  and  slice  rather  thin  in  cold 
v/ater,  drain  in  a colander,  some  also  wipe  dry  with  a towel,  and 
drop  in  fr^dng-pan  prepared  with  two  tablespoons  melted  butter  or 
beef  drippings,  or  one-half  of  each;  keep  closely  covered  for  ten 
minutes,  only  removing  to  stir  with  a knife  from  the  bottom 
to  prevent  burning;  cook  another  ten  minutes  stirring  frequent- 
y until  done  and  lightly  browned.  Serve  at  once,  sprinkled 
^dth  salt,  as  nothing  spoils  more  quickly  by  standing  than  fried 
potatoes.  For  French  Fried  Potatoes^  prepare  as  above,  slicing 
as  thin  as  an  egg-shell,  always  cutting  crosswise ; when  butter  is 
very  hot  in  frying-pan,  add  potatoes  and  fry  as  above,  shaking 
them  so  as  to  cook  them  equally ; drain  on  a sheet  of  kitchen  paper 
placed  in  dripping  pan. in  oven,  a few  minutes,  sprinkle  with  salt 
and  serve  hot.  Or,  cut  in  fancy  shapes  with  a vegetable  cutter  and 
fry  in  smoking-hot  fat.  To  make  them  swell;  when  fried  take 


POTATOES. 


679 


from  the  fat,  put  in  colander,  leave  there  only  half  a minute,  then 
drop  again  in  fat,  fry  one  minute,  drain,  salt  and  serve  hot.  For 
Potatoes  a la  Pancake^  peel,  cut  in  quarter-inch  slices,  lengthwise, 
and  fry  in  butter  or  drippings,  putting  in  only  one  layer  at  a time 
and  turning  as  pancakes.  Or,  cut  lengthwise  the  size  and  shape  of 
the  divisions  of  an  orange,  trim  them  neatly  and  fry ; they  are  an 
excellent  garnish  for  meat.  Or  With  Onions,  slice  both  fine,  and 
place  in  a skillet  Avith  one  spoonful  of  hot  butter  or  lard,  season 
Avith  pepper  and  salt,  and  fry  till  done.  Or  if  wanted  more  delicate, 
first  parboil  onions,  then  fry  as  above.  Or  With  Bacon,  first  fry 
thin  slices  or  dice  of  bacon,  take  out  and  keep  hot,  frying  the  po- 
tatoes ill  the  bacon  fat ; serve  Avith  potatoes  in  center  of  platter  and 
bacon  around  them. 

Colji  cooked  potatoes  can  be  prepared  in  any  of  above  ways, 
slicing  Avhen  cold,  never  Avhen  hot,  in  quarter  or  half  inch  slices,  and 
Avhen  fried  as  in  first  recipe,  using  only  enough  fat  to  prevent 
sticking,  sprinkling  with  salt  and  co'rering  with  tin  lid  so  they  may 
both  fry  and  steam ; and  in  last  recipe,  fry  the  diced  bacon  till  al- 
most done,  then  add  chopped,  cold-  cooked  potatoes  and  stir  to- 
gether till  nicely  broAvned.  For  Fried  Grated  Potatoes,  grate 
cold  boiled  potatoes,  mix  them  Avith  a little  flour,  melted  butter, 
and  salt  until  they  form  a stiff  paste.  Form  a roll  and  slice  this,  as 
thick  as  two  pieces  of  potato  for  frying.  Single-bread  and  frv. 

Mashed  Potatoes. — Pare,  if  large  cut  in  two,  and  boil  till  done ; 
drain  and  mash  in  kettle  till  perfectly  smooth ; add  cream  or  milk, 
butter  and  salt ; beat  like  cake  Avith  a large  spoon  or  fork,  the  lat- 
ter is  preferable,  till  light  and  foamy,  they  cannot  be  thus  beaten 
too  much ; dip  out  lightly  into  a hot  dish  and  literally  coax  into  a 
delicate  mealy  heap,  instead  of  packing  and  smoothing  into  a 
shapely  mass.  AIIoav  about  a teacup  cream  or  milk  and  piece  of 
butter  size  of  an  egg  to  a dozen  medium-sized  potatoes.  Some  have 
the  cream  hot,  thinking  it  makes  them,  much  nicer;  others  boil  po- 
tatoes in  jackets,  then  peel  and  prepare  as  above,  using  only  the 
large  fork  without  the  masher,  and  Avhen  ingredients  are  added,  po- 
tatoes very  hot,  dish  lightly  and  draw  the  fork  backAvard  oAnr  the 
potatoes  to  make  a rough  surface,  broAvning  Avith  a hot  salmander, 
if  liked.  Some  rub  through  a sieve  with  the  potato  masher,  then 
dress  and  beat  with  the  foi'k.  But  hoAveA^er  prepared  it  is  A^ery  es- 
sential to  beat  till  very  light  and  serAn  very  hot,  and  of  course 
there  must  not  be  any  lumps.  To  keep  hot  for  any  length  of  time, 
place  saucepan,  or  pan  in  AA^hich  they  AA^re  mashed,  in  a pan  of  hot 
Avater,  and  leaAn  on  back  of  stove.  When  potatoes  are  dished,  those 
who  prefer  a smooth  surface  can  smooth  over  top,  making  several 
holes  in  it  AAuth  boAAd  of  spoon,  filling  Avith  pieces  of  butter  and  also 
dotting  AAuth  a little  black  pepper;  although  if  any  pepper  is  used 
in  seasoning,  especially  if  mixed  through  the  mashed  potato,  the 


680 


POTATOES. 


white  is  preferable.  Mashed  potatoes  may  be  made  into  any  form 
of  apples,  pears,  etc.,  by  being  molded  with  the  hand;  a clove  in- 
serted for  the  eye  of  the  fruit,  and  a piece  of  parsley  stem  for  the 
stalk,  then  placed  in  oven  till  hot,  or  in  a pan  set  in  another  of  hot 
Water  on  stove.  Yoy  Browned  Mashed  Potatoes^  after  mashed  as 
above,  heap  on  a small,  oval  platter,  shape  like  a pyramid  and 
perfectly  smooth,  then  cover  with  a well-beaten  egg  and  set  in  the 
oven  to  brown.  Or  add  one  or  two  well-beaten  eggs,  mix  thoroughly, 
put  in  baking  dish,  dip  a knife  in  sweet  milk,  smooth  over,  wetting 
every  part  wiih  milk,  and  place  in  a hot  oven  twenty  minutes.  Or 
for  Fried  Mashed  Potatoes^  add  a little  cream  or  milk  to  cold 
mashed  potatoes,  press  evenly  in  pan  and  in  morning  slice  and  fr3\ 
For  Panned  Potatoes^  take  cold  mashed  potatoes,  season  with  salt 
butter,  and  a little  cream  or  milk,  and  one  or  two  eggs ; place  in  a 
buttered  pie  pan,  smooth  and  shape  the  top  handsomely,  make  in 
squares  with  a knife  and  brown  in  oven,  placing  on  top  grate  if  too 
hot ; place  pan  on  plate  and  serve.  Whole  cooked  potatoes  can  be 
‘‘panned”  thus,  by  placing  in  pan  on  stove  and  adding  little  boil- 
ing water,  then  mashing  and  finishing  as  above.  For  a Puree  of 
Potatoes^  pare  and  boil  six  potatoes,  drain  them  well,  mash 
smoothly  or  beat  them  up  with  a fork ; add  third  of  a pint  stock  or 
broth,  and  rub  potatoes  through  a sieve.  Put  the  puree  into  a very 
clean  saucepan  with  two  tablespoons  butter;  stir  well  over  fire 
until  thoroughly  hot,  and  it  will  then  be  ready  to  serve.  A puree 
should  be  rather  thinner  than  mashed  potatoes,  and  is  a delicious 
accompaniment  to  delicately  broiled  mutton  cutlets.  Cream  or 
milk  may  be  substituted  for  the  broth  when  the  latter  is  not  at 
hand.  A Casserole  of  Potatoes^  which  is  often  used  for  ragouts  in- 
stead of  rice  is  made  by  having  the  above  puree  a little  thicker, 
placing  on  platter  and  making  an  opening  in  center.  Brown  in 
oven,  wipe  off  platter,  pour  in  the  ragout  or  fricassee  and  serve. 
For  Swedish  Potatoes^  take  a small  piece  of  ham  bone,  or  end  of 
piece  of  dried  beef,  and  cook.  When  a well-flavored  broth  is  made, 
add  peeled  potatoes  and  cook  till  tender ; skim  out  meat  and  if  too 
much  broth,  pour  off  some,  then  mash  and  serve.  Be  careful  not  to 
put  too  much  water  over  meat,  for  if  needed  when  potatoes  are  put 
in,  more  can  be  added.  Broth  from  boiled  corned  beef  can  be  used 
instead  of  cooking  any  meat,  adding  part  water  if  too  salt.  With 
Turnips^  prepare  as  above  adding  peeled  and  sliced  white  turnips 
about  half  an  hour  before  the  potatoes  ; when  they  are  done  skim 
out  meat  and  finish  as  above. 

Molded  Potatoes. — After  mashing  potatoes,  shape  in  mold ; cut 
a flat  piece  of  sheet  iron,  about  an  inch  larger  than  the  top  of  mold, 
with  a v/ire  handle  at  each  end ; lay  it  upside  down  on  the  mold, 
invert,  remove  mold,  cover  potato  with  beaten  yolk  of  an 
egg,  then  cover  with  sifted  bread-crumbs  ; wipe  the  edge  of  the  sheet- 
iron,  then  plunge  it  instantly  in  a kettle  of  smoking-hot  lard.  The 


POTATOES. 


681 


potato  must  be  hot  when  put  in  mold,  so  it  Vvill  require  nothing 
more  than  browning ; and  when  this  is  perfect,  lift  the  sheet  from 
the  lard,  pass  a knife  between  it  and  potato,  and  slide  latter  care- 
fully into  the  center  of  a platter,  and  garnish  with  curled  parsley. 
Or  take  any  cold  potatoes  ; mash  with  a fork  until  perfectly  free  from 
lumps ; stir  in  tablespoon  each  flour  and  butter,  two  of  minced 
onion,  amd  add  sulflcient  milk  to  moisten  well ; press  potatoes  in  a 
mold,  or  baking  dish  and  bake  in  a moderate  oven  until  nicely 
brown,  which  will  be  in  twenty  minutes ; turn  out  and  serve. 

Ringed  Potatoes. large  potatoes,  cut  them  round  and 
round  in  shavings,  as  if  paring  an  apple.  Fry  with  clean,  sweet  lard  in 
a frying-pan  till  brown,  stirring  so  as  to  brown  all  alike,  drain  on  a 
sieve,  sprinkle  fine  salt  over  them  and  serve  ; or  place  in  wire  basket 
and  fry  as  fritters.  These  are  used  very  often  as  a garnish  and  are 
then  known  as  Potato  Roses.  Some  after  paring,  let  stand  an  hour 
or  so  in  ice-cold  water,  draining  and  wiping  with  a towel  before  fry- 
ing ; when  nearly  done  take  out  into  colander  for  a few  minutes, 
then  put  back  in  the  kettle  of  fat  and  fry  till  done.  This  causes 
them  to  swell  and  they  make  a nice  appearing  dish  when,  served. 

Saratoga  Potatoes. — Pare  and  shave  the  potatoes  in  very  thin 
slices,  like  wafers,  on  the  vegetable  plane ; let  stand  from  fifteen 
minutes  to  an  hour  in  ice-cold  water,  some  adding  salt  or  a piece  of 
alum,  size  of  a pea,  to  a quart  of  water,  to  chill 
and  crisp  the  slices ; drain  and  dr}^  in  a napkin. 

Separate  the  slices  and  drop  in  kettle  of  smoking- 
hot  fat,  tested  as  directed  in  Fritters,  as  many  as  ^ 
will  float  on  top  without  touching  each  other,  care  vegetable  piane. 
being  taken  not  to  fry  too  many  at  once ; some  only  put  in  eight  or 
ten  slices.  Keep  them  separated  by  means  of  a fork,  turning  when 
the  edges  begin  to  color ; and  before  this  when  slices  commence  to 
cook  one  must  watch  very  closely,  as  although  they  cook  slowly  at 
first,  they  finish  very  quickly,  and  after  turning  will  soon  be  a 
golden  brown ; when  skim  out  with  a wire  spoon  and  put  either  in 
a paper-lined  colander  or  dripping-pan,  set  in  oven  or  back  of  range ; 
sprinkle  with  salt,  and  continue  to  thus  fry  and  drain  till  all  are 
prepared.  Three  medium-sized  potatoes  will  be  sufficient  for  four 
persons.  Serve,  either  hot  or  cold,  on  a platter  and  they  are  also 
pretty  used  as  a garnish.  They  can  be  kept  nice  and  crisp  in  a dry 
warm  place,  and  may  be  prepared  quite  awhile  before  serving,  if 
necessary,  ^yhen  they  are  bought,  always  reheat  in  oven  before 
using.  The  length  of  time  of  standing  in  water  is  immaterial,  be- 
ing governed  by  the  wants  of  the  cook.  Use  kitchen,  or  any  brown 
paper  for  placing  in  colander  or  pan.  Castle  Potatoes  are  sliced 
lengthwuse,  half  inch  thick  and  fried  as  above.  Potatoes  a la  Maca- 
roni are  made  by  cutting  with  a special  machine  in  inch  strips 
resembling  macaroni,  only  square  instead  of  round  and  fried  as 


682 


POTATOES. 


Saratogas.  For  a breakfast  dish  Triangle  Potatoes  are  much 
prized;  pare  small  potatoes,  divide  in  halves 
then  in  three  pieces ; place  ten  or  twelve  tri- 
angles in  frying  basket  and  immerse  in  the  hot 
fat  eight  or  ten  minutes.  Drain  as  above  and 
serve.  Very  small  ones  can  be  fried  whole.  Cold 
cooked  potatoes  maybe  prepared  in 'same  way 
and  also  as  Castle  Potatoes.  Some  fry  Sara- 
toga potatoes,  a half  pint  or  so  at  a time,  in  the 
frying  basket ; and  there  is  also  a regular  Sara- 
toga Potato  Kettle.  In  frying  potatoes  in  basket 
as  soon  as  fat  is  smoking  hot  again  after  putting 
them  in,  set  back  where  potatoes  will  not  cook 
too  fast.  If  the  cooking  is  too  rapid  they  will  be  brown  before  they 
are  crisp,  especially  if  fried  in  a quantity  in  the  basket,  which  is  a 
quicker  way  but  potatoes  are  not  so  nice. 

Scalloped  Potatoes. — Season,  add  cream  to  mashed  potato  and 
lay  in  scallop  shells,  smooth  the  surface  with  blade  of  knife,  and  then 
score  them  across ; lay  thin  slices  of  butter  upon  them,  and  bake 
until  well  browned,  serve  hot  in  the  shells.  Or  cut  one  quart  cold 
boiled  potatoes  in  mry  thin  slices,  and  season  well 
with  salt  and  pepper.  Butter  an  earthen  baking  dish. 
Cover  bottom  with  layer  of  White  Sauce,  add  layer  of 
potatoes,  sprinkle  with  chopped  parsley,  then  another 
layer  of  sauce,  then  potatoes,  and  so  on  till  all  are  used.  Have 
sauce  for  last  layer  and  cover  with  fine  bread-crumbs,  put  a spoon- 
ful butter  in  little  bits  on  top,  and  cook  twenty  minutes.  A cup  of 
chopped  ham  or  any  kind  of  meats  may  be  used  with  potatoes.  Or 
cut  in  rather  thick  slices,  with  some  bread  in  same-sized  pieces 
(without  any  crust),  and  place  bread  and  potatoes  in  the  dish,  al- 
ternating the  layers.  Cover  with  White  Sauce  in  which  a bay  leaf 
has  been  cooked.  Strew  sugar  upon  the  top  and  slightly  brown  in 
oven.  Or  for  Sauced  Potatoes^  prepare  as  in  second  recipe,  plac- 
ing all  the  potatoes  in  dish,  then  covering  with  the  sauce  and  bread- 
crumbs  ; or  the  potatoes  may  be  sliced  raw,  cooked  in  a little  water 
till  tender,  then  placed  in  dish  and  finished  as  above.  Use  cream, 
milk,  or  water  in  making  the  sauce  as  directed  on  page  178. 

Steamed  Potatoes. — Prepare  as  for  boiled  potatoes  or  draw  the 
edge  of  a sharp  knife  half  way  around  them,  cutting  third  of  an 
inch  deep  ; place  in  patent  steamer,  or  steam  over  a kettle  of  water 
and  cook  till  skin  cracks  and  a fork  easily  penetrates  the  center, 
sprinkle  with  salt  and  serve  at  once,  or  if  to  be  kept,  leave  in  steamer, 
over  the  hre.  Some  peel  before  serving,  then  salt,  and  it  is  nice  to 
place  them  in  oven  for  a few  minutes  and  dish  very  hot.  For 
Bukeye  Potatoes.,  pare  and  steam  as  above ; if  large  cut  in  two 
pieces,  cutting  out  any  defective  parts.  Steaming  is  a much  better 
way  of  cooking  old  potatoes  and  also  when  to  be  served  as  Mashed 


Scallop  Shell. 


POTATOES. 


683 


Potatoes  \ pare  and  steam  as  above  and  have  ready  in  crock  or  tin 
pan  a cup  of  hot  cream  or  milk,  with  a lump  of  butter  and  a season- 
ing of  salt  and  white  pepper,  if  wished ; place  the  above  in  a pan  of 
hot  water  and  when  potatoes  are  done  add  them,  mash  and  heat  till 
almost  a white  foam;  then  pile  lightly  in  a hot  dish  and  serve  at 
once  or  brown  slightly  in  oven.  Having  all  ingredients  hot  makes  a 
more  delicious  dish.  Steamed  potatoes  will  cook  in  about  forty  min- 
utes and  it  is  better  not  to  lift  cover  till  done. 

Stewed  Potatoes. — Put  in  saucepan  a tablespoon  butter,  when 
melted  add  a level  tablespoon  flour,  cook  a few  minutes  and  add  a 
scant  pint  milk  or  cream,  season  with  salt  and  pepper ; when  it 
boils  add  a pint  sliced,  cold,  boiled  potatoes,  cover  and  cook  till  po- 
tatoes are  thoroughly  heated,  about  ten  minutes ; stir  once  or  twice, 
or  if  cooked  in  custard  kettle  will  not  need  it.  Some  add  table- 
spoon finely-chopped  parsley,  and  just  before  serving,  place  on  back 
of  stove  and  when  boiling  has  ceased,  stir  in  yolk  of  an  egg  beaten 
with  a teaspoon  -water  and  for  Walnut  Rouse  Potatoes  use  soup  or 
gravy  stock  instead  of  milk,  adding  with  the  egg,  or  two  if  liked,  a 
teaspoon  lemon  juice  and  another  tablespoon  butter.  Potatoes' may 
be  cut  in  dice  or  quarter-inch  slices.  For  Potatoes  a la  Maitre  d' 
Hotels  cook  as  in  first  recipe,  omitting  the  milk  and  adding  the 
parsley  with  juice  of  half  a lemon ; stir  well  in  this  sauce  and  serve 
very  hot.  Some  add  three  or  four  tablepoons  gravy  from  roast 
meat  or  good  gravy  stock.  Parsley  Butter  may  be  used  instead  of 
the  plain  butter  in  any  of  the  recipes,  omitting  the  parsley,  and 
makes  a delicious  seasoning.  For  Lactiola  Potatoes.,  cut  cold  po- 
tatoes quite  small  or  in  dice  and  put  them  in  saucepan  with  milk 
enough  to  almost  cover  them.  When  the  milk  becomes  hot,  stir 
and  mash  potatoes  with  a large  spoon  until  there  are  no  lumps. 
Add  salt,  and  a small  bit  of  butter,  stir  often,  until  quite  dry.  They 
are  nicer  when  cooked  with  plenty  of  milk,  necessitating  a great 
deal  of  stirring  to  prepare  for  serving.  Or  With  Onions.,  make  a 
sauce  of  melted  butter  and  thinly  sliced  onions,  fry  brown,  thicken 
with  flour,  thin  with  soup  stock,  add  chopped  parsley,  salt  and  a 
little  fresh  cream,  stir  well,  let  boil  and,  when  thick,  put  in  the  cold 
sliced  potatoes  and  when  they  are  hot,  serve.  Some  use  sour  cream 
for  this  thinking  it  nicer,  and  a Gopher  Dressing  for  Boiled  or 
Baked  Potatoes,  to  be  used  at  table  in  place  of  butter  or  gravy,  is 
simply  sour  cream.  A nice^  Southern  dish  With  Bacon  is  to  brown 
in  frying-pan  a dozen  thinly-sliced  pieces  of  the  latter,  add  a table* 
spoon  flour  and  when  well  mixed,  half  pint  boiling  water ; then  put 
in  a scant  pint  of  sliced  potatoes  and  when  hot  serve.  Or  With 
Vinegar^  cook  as  above  using  gravy  stock,  or  broth  from-  boiling 
either  fresh  or  corned  beef,  instead  of  the  water,  and  add  with  it  two 
tablespoons  vinegar.  The  pieces  of  bacon  may  be  taken  out,  or  but- 
ter used  instead,  if  preferred.  These  last  two  recipes  are  nice  made 
with  raw  potatoes,  sliced  as  above,  or  whole  if  very  small,  using 


684 


POTATOES. 


twice  as  much  liquid  and  cooking  till  potatoes  are  tender.  A bunch 
of  sweet  herbs  added  gives  a delicious  flavor,  removing  when  served. 

Stu-fFed  Potatoes. — Wash  ten  large  potatoes  with  a brush  ; bake 
only  until  tender  not  mealy,  not  more  than  half  an  hour ; cut  ofi*  one 
end,  scoop  out  inside  with  teaspoon,  rub  through  a sieve  or  mash 
thoroughly,  put  in  saucepan  containing  two  table- 
spoons butter,  three  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese, 
saltspoon  white  pepper  and  teaspoon  salt,  adding 
a little  boiling  milk,  stir  all  overfire  until  scalding  stuffed  Potatoes, 
hot ; then  fill  potato  shells  with  mixture,  put  on  ends,  press  potato 
gently  in  shape,  heat  them  in  the  oven,  and  serve  in  a napkin  placed 
in  a hot  dish.  Or  do  not  put  on  tops  but  sprinkle  over  a mixture 
of  bread-crumbs  and  grated  cheese.  Or  omit  all  the  cheese  and 
br^ad-crumbs,  fill  the  shells  heaping  full,  brown  delicately  in 
oven  or  with  a hot  salamander  and  serve  as  illustrated.  Or 
take  rather  large  cold  steamed  (pared)  potatoes,  cut  off 
tops,  and  with  round-topped  knife  carefully  remove  most  of 
inside,  leaving  simply  a protecting  wall  ; fill  with  chopped  raw 
oysters  slightly  seasoned  with  pepper  and  salt  and  mixed  with  an 
egg:  cover  with  tops,  moistening  edges  with  white  of  egg  to  make 
ihem  adhere,  and  place  in  warm,  not  hot,  oven  for  a few  minutes, 
Then  single-bread  and  fry  in  hot  lard.  Or  wash  and  pare  eight  large 
])otatoes,  cut  off  about  an  inch  of  smallest  end,  and  with  a knife  or 
strong  spoon  scrape  out  center,  leaving  a shell  about  a third  of  an 
inch  in  thickness ; throw  them  with  the  tops  cut  off  in  cold  water 
to  keep  them  white.  Then  chop  fine  a pound  of  beefsteak,  season 
with  salt,  pepper,  pinch  cayenne  and  desertspoon  mushroom  cat- 
sup, and  pack  mixture  firmly  in  potatoes,  first  wiping  them  dry 
with  a towel ; pin  tops  on  with  wooden  toothpicks,  brush  all  over 
with  beaten  egg,  stand  in  saucepan  with  two  tablespoons  butter, 
made  hot,  cover  and  cook  slowly  one  hour,  turning  occasionally  to 
brown  all  sides  evenly.  Or  fill  with  sausage,  minced  fish,  or  any  force- 
meat, brush  over  with  melted  butter  and  bake  in  oven  about  forty 
minutes.  The  potato  may  be  cut  in  halves,  then  scooped  out,  filled 
and  a bit  of  butter  placed  on  top  the  filling  and  baked  in  oven.  It 
will  be  necessary  to  cut  a little  piece  off  bottom  of  potato  so  they 
will  stand  firmly. 

» 

Potato  Balls. — Stir  into  nicely  seasoned  mashed  potatoes, 
beaten  yolks  of  one  or  two  eggs ; make  in  small  balls,  single-bread 
and  brown  in  oven  ; or  fry  in  frying-pan  or  as  fritters.  A little  pars- 
ley or  chopped  onion  maybe  added.  Or  With  Meat.,  mix  with  one 
pint  mashed  potato,  a tablespoon  butter,  two  of  cream  and  season 
with  salt  and  white  pepper,  add  beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs  and  scant 
ha'^f  pint  grated  cold  ham,  and  lastly  the  well-frothed  whites.  Make 


POTATOES. 


685 


in  balls,  flouring  the  hands  slightly,  roll  the  former  in  flour  and  fry 
^iii  ) above.  Nice  served  in  center  of  platter, 

— ' ■■■ ' ^ surrounded  by  Brown  Sauce  or  any  good 

gravy.  Or  for  Potato  a la  Parisiemie^  cut  balls  with  a vegetable 
cutter  from  either  cooked  or  raw  potatoes  and  fry  as  above.  If  from 
the  latter  boil  in  water  eight  minutes  then  fry.  Season  with  a lit- 
tle pepper,  salt  and  chopped  parsley. 

Potato  Biscuits. — To  a pint  mashed  potatoes,  add  one  beaten 
3gg,  when  perfectly  smooth  add  sufficient  sugar  to  make  quite  sweet ; 
add  well-frothed  whites  of  four  eggs,  a pinch  salt  and  a desertspoon  of 
orange-flower  water,or  any  flavoring  wished,  and  place  in  ehher  round 
or  oblongbiscu.its,upon  apaper-lined  pan  as  Lady  Fingers.  Bake  slow- 
ly until  nicely  browned  and  remove  paper  when  biscuits  are  cold.  For 
Potato  Sandwiches^  take  mashed  potato,  add  pinch  salt,  a little 
milk  and  sufficient  flour  to  make  a light  dough;  roll  out  rather 
thin,  cut  into  squares  and  toast  in  folding  wire  toaster,  or  broil  on 
a gridiron  ; place  two  together  with  a little  butter  between,  and  serve 
hot.  One  of  the  nicest  surprises  is  a Potato  Surprise^  grate  cold 
boiled  or  steamed  potatoes,  or  use  mashed  ones,  one  quart  when  pre- 
pared, add  a little-salt,  flour  enough  to  make  a 
firm  dough,  about  a heaping,  pint,  roll  out  half 
inch  thick  on  floured  board,  and  cut  in  cakes 

with  a large  biscuit-cutter ; or  instead  of  rolling  

out  take  a piece  of  the  dough  in  the  hands  potato  surprise 
(flouring  them)  and  mold  to  same  shape.  Have  small  dice  of 
fresh  ham,  slightly  fried,  and  place  a few  in  the  center  of  each  cake, 
bring  the  dough  up  over  them,  pinch  together  and  roll  in  the  hands  ; 
or  place  the  meat  on  half  the  circle,  fold  over  like  a turn-over,  and 
pinch  edges  well  together ; place  in  boiling  water,  cover  and  cook  till 
done,  being  careful  not  to  boil  very  hard ; or  place  on  buttered  pie 
pan  and  bake  in  oven  ; or  fry  as  fritters,  or  in  frying-pan.  Serve  with 
any  nice  gravy.  Any  fresh  or  chopjjed  cold  meat  may  be  used. 

Potato  Cahes. — Mix  thoroughly  with  cold,  mashed  potatoes,  the 
well-beaten  yolk  of  an  egg  ; make  into  small  cakes,with  floured  hands, 
place  in  hot  skillet  with  a tablespoon  butter  or  ham  <)r  beef- 
drippings,  cover  tightly,  and,  in  five  minutes,  when  lower  side  is 
browned,  remove  cover,  turn,  fry  until  the  other  side  is  a nice  brown  ; 
serve  hot.  Some  add  a little  flour  to  the  mixture,  and  they  may  be 
brushed  with  Pastry  Glaze  and  baked  in  oven,  when  they  are  known 
as  Duchessse  Potatoes ; a more  elaborate  recipe  is,  to  one  pint  hot 
mashed  potatoes,  rubbed  through  the  colander,  add  tablespoon  but- 
ter, well-beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs,  with  a seasoning  of  salt,  pepper 
and  grated  nutmeg ; form  into  cakes,  place  on  a buttered  pie  pan, 
brush  over  as  above  and  brown  in  oven.  Or  for  a Potato  G^^/re,take 
a pint  mashed  potatoes ; mix  with  them  five  tablespoons  flour,  two 
of  butter,  salt  and  pepper,  and  as  much  lukewarm  milk  as  will  make 


686 


POTATOES. 


a smooth,  firm  dough;  add  one  egg  and  half  teaspoon  baking  pow- 
der. Roll  paste  out  with  a rolling-pin  till  it  is  nearly  two  inches 
thick ; dredge  a little  flour  over  and  cut  it  out  the  exact  size  of  the 
frying-pan.  Rub  pan  over  with  butter,  lay  cake  carefully  into  it, 
cover  and  shake  every  now  and  then  to  prevent  burning ; when 
brown  on  one  side  turn  it  over  carefully  on  the  other.  Serve  on  a 
hot  dish  with  plenty  of  good  fresh  butter.  Sweet  Potatoes  may  be 
prepared  in  same  way.  Or  for  Potato  Pudding^  wash,  peel,  and 
grate  six  or  eight  potatoes ; add  four  tablespoons  each  sugar  and  melb 
ed  butter  or  dripping,  one  teaspoon  salt  and  quarter  teaspoon 
pepper,  mix  well  together,  place  in  buttered  baking  dish,  and  put  it 
into  a brisk  oven  until  it  is  done,  and  nicely  browned.  Some  add 
grated  rind  and  juice  of  half  a lemon  and  yolks  of  two  or  three*  eggs. 


Potato  Croquettes. — Pare  six  potatoes ; cut  in  small  pieces,  put 
in  boiling  water  and  cook  till  soft ; drain,  and  put  through  a colan- 
der, mix  three  eggs  (one  at  a time)  with  the  potatoes;  add  two 
tablespoons  bread-crumbs  and  a little  salt.  Cook,  stirring  con- 
stantly ; when  thoroughly  heated  take  off,  let  cool,  roll  into  balls 
and  fry  in  hot  lard  as  directed  in  Fritters  and  Croquettes.  Sweet 
Potatoes  prepared  in  same  way.  Or  cook  as  above  one  pint  mashed 
potato,  gill  milk,  three  tablespoons  each  butter  and  sugar,  a little 
nutmeg  and  teaspoon  salt.  Take  off  and  add  two  well-beaten  yolks, 
stir  until  very  smooth  and  light,  spread,  about  half  an  inch  deep,  on 
a buttered  dish  and  sot  away  to  cool.  AVhen  cold,  cut  in  squares, 
single-bread,  using  the  whites,  and  fry  as  above.  Serve  immediately. 
Or  roast  a dozen  fine  potatoes-:  When  done,  scrape  out  the  interior, 
^ which  form  into  a ball.  When  cold  put  into  a 
mortar  and  mix  with  six  tablespoons  butter,  sea- 
son  with  a little  salt,  pepper,  chopped  parsley  and 
Potato  Croquettea.  shallots  and  grated  nutmeg.  Add  beaten  yolks'^ 
of  four  and  two  whole  eggs,  form  into  croquettes  the  size  of  a small 
pear,  or  in  a small  roll ; double-egg-bread,  page  299,  and  fry  in  a ket^ 
tie  of  hot  fat  or  in  a little  butter  or  drippings  in  frying-pan.  Garn- 
ish with  sprigs  of  fresh  green  parsley,  and  serve  very  hot.  Or  With 
Gravy ^ cook  them  in  boiling  gravy  or  milk.  When  done  serve  them 
in  the  sauce.  If  preferred,  a little  anchovy,  shrimp,  parsley,  or  lobstei 
butter  may  be  used  in  place  of  the  herbs,  etc. 


Potato  Flour. — Peel,  and  grate  potatoes  into  an  earthen  pan 
filled  with  pure,  soft  cold  water ; w^hen  the  w^ater  begins  to  clear  M 
the  settling  of  pulp  to  bottom,  pour  it  off  gently  arid  add  more,  stii 
pulp  with  hand,  rub  through  a hair  sieve,  pour  on  more  w^ater,  let 
stand  until  clear,  pour  off  and  renew  again,  repeating  several  times 
until  the  farina  is  perfectly  white  and  water  clear.  The  air  darkens 
it  and  it  must  be  kept  in  the  water  as  much  as  possible  during  the 
process.  Spread  the  prepared  farina  before  fire,  covering  with  paper 
to  keep  it  from  dust ; when  dry,  pulverize  it,  sift,  bottle,  and  cork 


POTATOES, 


687 


tightly.  Potato  Jelly  is  made  by  rubbing  to  a smooth  powder,  with 
the  back  of  a spoon,  equal  quantities  potato  flour  and  sugar  and 
pouring  over  them  boiling  water,  till  proper  consistency ; flavor  as 
preferred.  This  is  quite  as  nourishing  as  arrowroot,  and  possesses 
the  great  advantage  of  not  turning  watery  when  it  grows  cold.  Two 
heaping  teaspoons  each  of  flour  and  sugar  will  be  found  to  be  suf- 
flcient  for  half  a pint.  Yoy  Potato  Blanc-manae  make  a stiff  jelly 
and  while  hot,  stir  into  it  almonds,  blanched  and  pounded. 

Potato  Fritters. — Put  five  tablespoons  flour  into  a bowl,  mix 
with  it  teaspoon  salt  and  half  of  white  pepper,  pour  tablespoon  salad 
oil  into  center  and  over  this  a gill  tepid  water,  beating  all  well  to- 
gether ; add  well-beaten  white  of  egg,  stirring  very,  carefully  in  order 
not  to  break  the  froth.  Quarter  five  boiled  potatoes,  and  dip  each 
piece  separately  in  batter.  Drop  in  hot  clarified  fat,  fry  three  min- 
utes, drain,  and  serve  hot. 

Potato  Omelet. — Take  three  or  four  steamed  potatoes,  mash, 
season,  and  add  a little  cream ; then  stir  this  with  the  yolks  of  six 
eggs  and  the  whites  of  two.  Fry  till  browned  on  one  side,  fold  and 
serve  at  once.  Or  quarter  four  cold  boiled  potatoes,  cut  in  thin 
slices  or  dice,  season  and  add  beaten  yolks  of  four  eggs,  and  lastly 
the  well-frothed  whites  and  fry  as  any  omelet. 

PotOjto  Pancakes.— 1^0  two  grated  large  raw  potatoes  add  two 
beaten  eggs,  a tablespoon  thick  cream,  salt  and  pepper,  a little  spice, 
and  if  wished,  a little  grated  lemon  peel.  Drop  a spoonful  at  a time 
into  a skillet  in  which  is  some  melted  butter  or  beef  drippings ; 
spread  out  rather  thin;  when  brown  on  both  sides  sprinkle  a little 
sugar  on  them  and  serve. 

Potato  Pickles. — Wash  and  peel  some  very  early  potatoes,  cut 
.n  long  thin  slips,  and  pass  through  two  or  three  waters ; drain, 
place  in  a cloth,  and  sprinkle  with  fine  salt ; let  remain  for  half  an 
hour,  rub  dry  in  the  cloth,  and  put  them  into  a cold  pickle  of  spiced 
vinegar  to  which  a clove  of  garlic  (bruised)  or  sliced  shallot  has 
been  added.  This  pickle  should  be  very  crisp  and  is  nice  when 
made  with  Tarragon  or  any  flavored  vinegar,  spiced.  A few  slices 
of  boiled  beets  will  give  a fine  color.  Some  cook  slightly  at  first. 

Pota.fo  Pie. — Make  a crust  as  for  chicken  or  beefsteak  pie,  line 
<i  deep  pie  pan  and  fill  with  freshly  cooked  potatoes  mashed  and 
seasoned  to  taste  with  salt,  pepper,  butter,  and  cream ; over  this 
sprinkle  a little  summer  savory,  if  liked,  or  sprinkle  with  a little 
catsup,  chowchow  or  any  fine  pickle,  cover  with  crust,  and  bake  in 
quick  oven  until  crusts  are  done ; serve  with  fried  chicken,  veal  cut- 
lets, or  any  other  meats  with  which  a brown  gravy  is  served.  Or  for 
a Peep  Potato  /’^e,take  a small  quantity  of  meat  of  any  kind — half 
pound  is  sufficient,  and  bacon,  ham,  potted  fish  with  hard-boiled  eggs, 


688 


POTATOES. 


odds  and  ends  of  beef,  or  poultry,  will  answer  the  purpose ; cut  any 
of  these  into  pieces,  lay  in  bottom  of  baking  dish,  season  ; pare  and 
slice  a quart  of  raw  potatoes,  place  oyer  meat,  strew  over  bits  of  but’ 
ter,  cover  with  a crust  if  liked  or  sprinkle  with  bread-crumbs,  or 
omit  either,  and  bake  in  rather  a slow  oven.  Sliced  cooked  potatoes 
can  be  used,  making  an  economical  and  palatable  way  of  serving  up 
odd  scraps  ; if  any  sauce,  such  as  bread,  parsley,  white,  etc., is  left, 
it  may  also  be  added  to  the  pie,  and  if  wished  the  meat  can  be  omit- 
ed  if  sauce  is  used ; or  mashed  potatoes  may  be  taken,  putting  in 
layers  v/ith  chopped  pickles  over  each  layer  of  meat ; or  other  cook- 
ed vegetables,  such  as  spinach,  tomatoes,  asparagus,  etc.,  may  be 
used  in  place  of  meat.  There  should  be  about  three  times  as  much 
potato  as  meat,  fish  or  vegetables.  When  cooked,  fresh  fish  is  used, 
mix  a rav/  egg  with  it  instead  of  slices  of  hard-boiled  eggs,  as  above. 

Potato  PufFs. — Beat  three  cups  mashed  potatoes  to  a cream 
with  quarter  cup  butter,  add  three  well-beaten  yolks,  half  cup  sweet 
cream,  or  part  milk,  tablespoon  sugar  and  pinch  of  salt  with  the 
well-frothed  whites.  Bake  in  spoonfuls  on  a well-buttered  pan  in  a 
quick  oven ; when  done,  slip  a knife  under,  slide  upon  a hot  platter 
and  serve  at  once,  garnished  with  parsley. 

Potato  Rolls. — Wash  medium-si»ed  potatoes,  pare  and  cut  in 
the  form  of  small  rolls  of  about  three  inches  in  length  and  an  inch 
and  a half  across  ; dip  into  beaten  egg,  wrap  each  in  a thin  slice  of 
fat  bacon  large  enough  to  envelop  it,  and  pin  together  with  woodeii 
toothpicks ; arrange  in  a small  baking-dish,  put  into  a moderately 
hot  oven,  and  bake  until  the  potatoes  are  done ; grate  a little  toast 
upon  them  and  serve  at  once.  Or  take  equal  quantities  of  cooked 
fresh  meat  of  any  kind,  or  game  or  poultry,  and  fresh  butter,  and 
twice  the  quantity  of  mashed  potatoes  ; pound  all  together  in  a mor- 
tar, season  with  pepper,  salt,  and  nutmeg ; add  some  raw  egg  to 
make  it  of  the  proper  consistency  ; roll  portions  of  it  in  a little  flour, 
giving  them  the  form  of  rolls ; poach  them  in  boiling  water ; 
drain  them ; let  them  become  cold ; dip  them  into  beaten  egg,  then 
into  melted  butter,  and  fry  until  nicely  browned  on  all  sides ; serve 
with  a rich  gravy  sauce.  A small  portion  of  sausage  meat,  mixed 
with  some  mashed  potatoes  and  treated  same  makes  a delicious  dish. 

Potato  Salad.— pieces  of  streaky  bacon,  or  ham,  into  small 
neat  dice,  fry  slow-ly  in  frying-pan  for  a minute  or  so,  then  add  two 
medium-sized  finely-chopped  onions,  stir  well  with  meat,  dredge 
with  flour  and  cook  till  onions  are  a light  brown,  add  salt,  four  table- 
spoons vinegar,  a little  pepper  and  half  pint  water,  or  if  vinegar  not 
very  strong  use  more  of  it  and  less  water,  stir  well  and  pour  over 
sliced  boiled  potatoes. 

Potato  Slaw. — Slice  six  or  eight  cold  boiled  potatoes  into  a 
crock,  with  one  large  or  two  or  three  small  onions,  season  with  salt 


POTATOES 


6S9 


and  pepper  and  pour  cup  vinegar  over.  Heat  two  tablespoons  drip- 
pings and  pour  over  very  hot,  stir  all  well  together  with  a fork,  tak- 
ing care  not  to  break  potatoes ; let  stand  four  or  five  hours,  stir 
again,  put  in  dish  and  serve.  More  onions  may  be  added  if  liked. 
Make  from  cold  potatoes  left  at  dinner  and  will  be  ready  for  tea. 

Potato  SotiMe. — Boil  five  good-sized  mealy  potatoes,  pass 
through  a sieve  ; scald  in  a clean  saucepan  half  cup  sweet  milk  and 
tablespoon  butter,  add  to  potato  with  a little  salt  and  pepper,  and 
beat  to  a cream ; add  one  at  a time,  yolks  of  four  eggs,  beating  thor- 
oughty,  drop  a small  pinch  salt  into  whites  and  beat  to  a stiff  froth, 
add,  mixing  as  lightly  as  possible ; have  ready  a well-buttered  souffle 
or  baking  dish,  large  enough  to  permit  the  souffle  to  rise  without 
running  over;  bake  tvventy  minutes  in  a brisk  oven,  serve  at  once  in 
the  same  dish  in  which  it  was  baked,  placing  in  the  ornamental 
receptacle  as  described  on  page  125;  or  tying  on  the  Knitted  Cover^ 
crocheted  of  white  tidy  yarn,  with  cord  and  tassels  at  top  so  it  can 
be  drawn  tightly  around  the  top  edge  of  the  baking  dish,  thus  mak- 
ing a pretty  bottom  cover  for  anything  served  in  dish  in  which  it  was 
baked.  The  souffle  should  be  eaten  with  meats  that  have  gravies. 

Potato  Soup. — Pare  and  slice  four  large  potatoes,  cover  with 
water,  cook  till  tender  and  rub  all  through  colander ; add  to  this  a 
quart  of  rich  milk,  two  tablespoons  butter  and  season  with  salt  and 
pepper ; boil  up  once  and  serve.  Some  add  a tablespoon  each  chop- 
ped onion,  celery  and  parsley,  speck  of  cayenne  and  half  tablespoon 
flour  made  smooth  in  a little  milk.  Strain  into  tureen  and  serve 
with  croutons  of  toasted  bread.  If  wished  richer,  use  only  a pint  of 
milk,  and  put  two  well-beaten  eggs  in  tureen,  stirring  rapidly  while 
pouring  in  the  soup.  Some  do  not  strain  the  soup. 

Potato  Stew!-— ^oi\  one  pound  salt  pork  in  two  quarts  water ; 
when  done,  take  out,  add  twelve  raw  potatoes  and  two  onions  sliced, 
or  if  very  small  leave  potatoes  whole ; cook  three-quarters  of  an 
hour,  and  add  tablespoon  butter  and  cup  milk  mixed  with  a beaten 
egg ; boil  a moment  or  two  and  serve ; or  if  not  wished  with  as 
much  liquid,  prepare  the  dressing  of  butter,  milk  and  egg  in  sauce- 
pan, skim  out  potatoes  and  onions,  add,  and  boil  up  once  in  it. 
Score  the  meat  and  brown  in  oven  and  serve.  If  quite  salt,  soak  a 
little  while  before  cooking.  Or  Without  Meat^  place  three  table- 
spoons lard,  drippings  or  butter  in  saucepan,  when  hot,  mix  in  two 
of  flour,  and  add  about  three  pints  water;  when  boiling,  add  twelve 
sliced  raw  potatoes  with  salt  and  pepper.  Stir  occasionally  and 
when  done,  serve  hot. 

Potato  Snow. — Boil  fine,  white,  mealy  potatoes,  drain  off,  and 
set  on  back  of  stove  with  a cloth  over  them  till  they  are  quite  dry 
and  fall  apart ; then,  using  a potato  masher,  rub  through  a hot  col- 
ander, or  coarse  wire  sieve  upon  the  hot  dish  in  which  to  be  served. 

44 


690 


POTATOES. 


taking  care  not  to  crush  the  snow  as  it  falls,  never  toncJiing  it.  It 
will  drop  in  long  coils,  which  heap  themselves  up  invitingly,  or  by 
shaking  the  colander  lightly,  every  other  minute,  it  will  fall  off  in 
short  grains  and  is  known  as  Potato  Rice.  In  either  case  only  rub 
a small  quantity  through  at  a time,  and  do  not  let  the  colander 
touch  the  potato.  Some  boil  in  their  jackets,  and  others  first  mash 
them,  then  finish  as  above.  Sprinkle  with  salt,  and  a very  little 
sugar,  if  wished,  and  serve  very  hot.  For  Granite  Potatoes^  boil 
and  mash,  adding  hot  cream  or  milk,  butter  and  salt  as  in  Mashed 
Potatoes,  only  making  more  moist,  then  rub  through  a colander  as 
above.  It  is  well  to  have  the  dish  in  a pan  of  hot  water  on  the 
stove,  when  preparing  snow,  place  in  hot  oven  a moment,  then  serve. 

Potato  Whip. — Take  a pint  of  steamed  potatoes  and  whip  them 
very  light  with  a silver  fork,  adding  half  cup  cream  or  milk,  two 
tablespoons  butter,  yolks  of  two  eggs  and  seasoning  to  taste.  When 
as  light  as  a feather  add  the  well-frothed  whites,  and  heap  lightly, 
v/ithout  smoothing,  in  a quart  souffle  or  baking  dish,  slightly  but- 
tered, and  brown  quickly  in  oven,  or 
use  a hot  salamander.  If  w^anted  ex- 
tra nice,  use  whites  of  two  more  eggs. 

Or,  With  Meat  add  tablespoon  each, 
grated  onion  and  minced  parsley  with  a gill  or  more  of  grated,  cold 
cooked  ham.  Pile  in  dish  and  sprinkle  with  sifted  bread-crumbs  or 
grated  cheese,  if  liked ; brown  and  serve  as  above. 

Potatoes  With  PLam. — Grate  four  or  five  cooked,  mealy  pota- 
toes, beat  to  a cream  three  or  four  tablespoons  butter,  add  gradually 
two  whole  eggs  and  two  yolks ; beat  well  and  add  half  pint  finely- 
grated,  cooked  ham.  Put  in  a buttered  baking  dish  and  steam  or 
bake ; when  done,  sprinkle  with  grated  cheese  and  brown  lightly. 
Or  With  Fish.)  place  the  roe  of  a fish  in  baking  dish,  chop  two  cold 
potatoes,  put  upon  fish,  strew  bits  of  butter  over  and  place  for  twenty 
minutes  in  a moderately  hot  oven. 

Potatoes  With  Kidney. — Take  a sheep’s  kidney,  or  a piece  of 
calf’s  liver  of  an  equivalent  size,  chop  finely  and  season  with  salt, 
spices,  and  a few  herbs  finely  chopped ; add  to  it  a tablespoon  but- 
ter cut  in  bits ; chop  up  four  medium-sized  raw  potatoes,  well 
washed  and  peeled,  mix  thoroughly  with  meat,  place  in  buttered 
baking  dish,  sift  over  bread-crumbs,'  and  bake  for  three-quarters  of 
an  hour  in  a slow  oven ; serve  in  dish  in  which  it  was  baked.  A lit- 
tle shalot  or  onion  may  be  added  if  wished.  Or  With  Cal)hagej\ 
either  mash  some  hot,  or  finely  chop  some  cold  potatoes,  season 
with  pepper  and  salt,  and  add  to  them  just  enough  boiled  young 
cabbage  to  give  nice  green  color  to  potatoes  ; add  butter,  and  either' 
fry  quickly,  or  bake  as  above.  It  may  be  fried  after  pieces  of  bacon,' 
and  both  be  arranged  together  in  dish. 


POTATOES. 


691 


Potatoes  With  Onions. — Boil  potatoes  in  skins,  peel  while  hot 
and  slice ; let  sliced  onions  stand  in  salt  and  water  an  hour,  then 
put  them  in  frying-pan  with  a little  ham  gravy  or  butter  and  a little 
water,  cook  slightly,  skim  out  and  put  in  vegetable  dish  first  a layer 
of  onions,  then  potatoes,  then  onions,  etc.,  with  potatoes  last;  add  a 
cup  of  vinegar  to  frying-pan  in  which  the  onions  were  cooked ; let 
boil  and  pour  over  the  vegetables.  Th^  proportions  of  onions  and 
potatoes  can  be  half  and  half  or  as  wisl^ed.  For  Galveston  Pota- 
toes^ boil  potatoes ; when  done,  mash,  season  with  salt,  pepper  and 
butter ; mince  a large  onion  very  fine,  mix  well  through  the  pota 
toes,  put  in  baking  dish  and  brown  in  oven ; or  for  Potato  Loaves., 
place  spoonfuls  of  above  under  and  around  meat,  when  roasting, 
about  fifteen  minutes  before  latter  is  done ; baste  the  little  loaves,  so 
they  will  brown  nicely.  For  the  well-known  Lyonaise  Potatoes,  put 
two  tablespoons  butter  or  drippings  in  a frying-pan  and  add  two 
sliced  onions ; when  they  begin  to  color  add  cold  potatoes,  sliced  in 
quarter-inch  slices  or  cut  in  dice,  using  about  eight  potatoes ; shake 
or  stir  them  gently  till  a golden  brown,  add  a tablespoon  of  finely 
chopped  parsley,  mix  through  slightly  and  serve  Very  hot.  Somh 
add  juice  of  a lemon  just  before  serving,  and  others  drain  dry  by 
shaking  in  a heated  colander. 

Potatoes  for  Garnishing. — Take  potatoes  sufficient  in  number 
to  decorate  a dish ; wash,  peel,  and  cut  in  any  form  fancied — whether 
balls,  pine-apples,  stars,  diamonds,  etc. ; let  stand  in  salted  water  a 
little  while,  dry  upon  a towel,  and  place  at  bottom  of  saucepan, 
cover  with  clarified  butter,  bring  quickly  to  a boil,  and  then  cook 
slowly  till  of  a fine  golden  brown  ; drain,  and  fry  lightly  in  frying- 
pan  with  butter,  adding  a little  veal  glaze.  Let  them  be  ready  just 
in  time  for  the  dish  they  are  to  garnish.  Or  mash  and  fry  in  spoon- 
fuls in  a frying-pan  with  drippings  or  a little  butter  and  place  upon 
small  collops  of  calf's  liver  or  meat  of  any  kind,  or  arrange  them  in 
a rim  round  a dish  of  fried  sausages.  Or,  for  a Potato  Border  pare 
and  boil  fine  medium-sized  potatoes,  mash  and  beat  with  a large  fork 
till  light  as  a feather ; add  tablespoon  butter,  teaspoon 
salt,  yolks  of  two  eggs,  (the  whites  make  it  more 
difficult  to  form  in  shape)  and  three-quarters  of  a 
gill  of  hot  cream  ; mix  well,  press  the  potato  tightly  in 
the  crovm  mold  and  let  stand  fifteen  minutes  in  a warm 
place ; then  turn  out  carefully  on  platter,  brush  with 
Pastry  Glaze,  brown  in  oven  and  fill  center  with  a ragout,  fricassee 
or  whatever  wished. 

Baked  Sweet-potatoes. — Wash,  and  bake  in  oven  in  their  jack- 
ets one  hour,  and  serve  without  peeling ; or  With  Meat,  steam  or 
boil  them,  remove  skins,  place  in  pan  around  the  meat  and  baste 
often,  browning  nicely;  or  they  may  be  put  around  the  meat  with- 
out first  cooking,  but  are  not  as  nice  and  will  not  brown  well.  If 


Crown  Mold 


692 


POTATOES. 


large  cut  in  two  lengthwise  or  even  quarter  them,  and  turn  as  needed. 
Sweet-potatoes  are  delicious  with  Roast  Pork.  For  Carolina  Sweet- 
potatoes^  slice  raw  potatoes,  put  in  baking  dish,  sprinkle  with  sugar 
and  more  than  cover  with  water ; cover  the  dish  and  bake  about  two 
hours.  The  syrup-gravy  is  much  prized.  Or  for  Texas  Sweet-po- 
tatoes^ peel,  place  in  pan,  pouring  a little  hot  water  over  them,  set 
in  oven  and  bake,  turning  them  so  as  to  brown  evenly ; pour  in 
more  water  as  needed ; let  the  pan  be  about  dry  when  the}^  are  done. 
Serve  on  hot  dish.  Or  boil  or  steam  till  nearly  done,  peel  and  cut 
in  lengthwise  slices ; put  a layer  of  potatoes  with  bits  of  butter  dot- 
ted over  them,  and  sprinkle  vrell  with  sugar ; add  another  layer  of 
potatoes,  butter,  and  sugar,  until  dish  is  full.  Add  very  little  water, 
and  bake.  For  Perfection  Sweet-potatoes^  slice  cold  boiled  pota- 
toes crosswise,  in  half-inch  slices;  dip  in  egg  then  in  farina,  and 
sprinkle  over  with  sugar.  Place  in  a hot  dripping-pan  and  dot  each 
piece  with  a bit  of  butter  and  brown  in  oven  about  ten  minutes. 
Serve  on  a hot  dish.  For  Roasted  Sweet-potatoes^  roast  in  ashes,  as 
Irish  potatoes,  remove  skin  and  serve.  They  have  a delicious  and 
peculiar  flavor  so  cooked.  Sweet-potatoes  prepared  in  any  way  are 
especially  nice  served  with  chicken.  Always  cut  off  ends,  when  pre- 
paring for  baking,  the  same  as  Irish  potatoes. 

Boiled  Sweet-potatoes. — Wash  and  boil  as  Irish  potatoes,  with- 
out any  salt ; when  tender,  peel  and  place  in  oven  to  dry  and  brown 
delicately,  if  wished.  Serve  like  Irish  potatoes,  a dressing  of  melted 
butter  being  nice.  The  best  way  to  cook  them  is  as  Steamed  Svjeet- 
potatoes,  as  above.  Y or  Mashed  Potatoes .,\)0\\  or  steam 

and  prepare  as  Irish  potatoes.  However  cooked,  they  require  more 
time  than  the  Irish. 

Browned,  Sweet-potatoes. — Put  in  a frying-pan  half  cup  each 
outter  and  lard,  cup  sugar,  and  pint  water ; pare  potatoes,  slice  length- 
wise if  large,  add  and  keep  closely  covered,  boil  until  water  boils  away, 
then  brown  nicely  but  do  not  let  burn.  After  removing  potatoes, 
pour  in  cup  cream,  let  poil  and  pour  over  potatoes.  Serve  hot.  Or 
cut  cold  boiled  potatoes  in  thick  slices  and  season.  Have  butter  or 
drippings  in  frying-pan  and  add  slices  to  cover  the  bottom ; brown 
and  turn  as  pancakes.  Sliced  raw  ones  may  be  prepared  same,  be- 
ing careful  not  to  cook  too  long  as  they  will  become  hard.  Par- 
snips may  be  browned  as  above. 

Fried  Sweet-potatoes. — Peel,  slice,  and  drop  in  smoking-hot 
fat,  turning  to  nicely  brown  both  sides,  or  fry  slioed  cooked  ones 
same ; or  single-bread,  some  using  flour  instead  of  crumbs  and  fry. 

Glazed  Sweet-potatoes. — Boil  till  tender,  peel  carefully,  and  lay 
in  buttered  dripping-pan,  in  a good  oven;  as  they  begin  to  crust 
over,  baste  with  a little  butter,  repeating  this  several  times  as  they 
Rrown ; when  glossy  and  a golden  color,  dish  and  serve  while  hot. 


POTATOES. 


693 


Stented  Sweet-potato. — Peel  and  slice  a quart  of  sweet  potatoes, 
put  them  over  the  tire  in  boiling  water  to  cover,  and  boil  till  tender  ; 
drain,  and  add  to  them  a heaping  tablespoon  butter,  saltspoon  salt, 
and  enough  milk  to  cover ; let  boil  and  serve  at  once,  if  allowed  to 
cook  after  tender  they  will  soon  break. 

Sioeet-potato  Calies. — Boil,  remove  skins,  and  rub  potatoes 
through  a coarse  colander ; make  into  flat  cakes,  dip  in  flour  and 
fry  in  hot  butter.  For  Biscuits.)  mash  well  four  medium-sized  cold 
boiled  sweet-potatoes,  add  four  tablespoons  flour,  piece  of  butter 
and  a little  milk  to  make  a dough  as  for  biscuit  dough.  Roll  on 
pastry  board,  cut  with  biscuit-cufter,  and  place  in  a floured  baking 
pan.  If  oven  is  very  hot,  put  upper  grate  under  pan  and  a piece  of 
paper  over  cakes  to  render  them  more  moist. 

Sioeet-potato  Cheesecakes. — Beat  quarter  of  a pint  butter  with 
three  or  four  potatoes  (quarter  of  a pound),  well  mashed  ; add  yolks 
of  two  or  three  eggs,  gill  sugar,  quarter  pound  dried  currants,  pre- 
pared as  for  cake ; beat  well,  then  add  lightly  the  well-frothed  whites, 
and  rind  and  juice  of  a lemon,  which  causes  it  to  curd.  Line  patty- 
pans with  a rich  Puff  Paste,  place  a heaping  teaspoon  of  mixture  in 
each  and  bake  in  a quick  oven.  These  are  very  delicious  and  equal- 
Iv  nice  made  with  Irish  potatoes. 


694 


POULTRY. 


POULTRY. 


What  can  be  more  tempting  to  the  epicure  than  a handsomely 
browned  and  crusted  fowl?  And  although  poultry  is  not  considered 
equal  to  fish  as  a food  for  brain-workers,  it  contains  more  of  the 
muscle-making  and  heat-producing  elements  than  beef  or  veal.  This 
is  especially  the  case  with  the  thighs  and  legs  of  chickens  and  turk- 
eys, which  are  far  superior  to  the  breast  as  real  food.  The  latter  is 
dry  and  somewhat  tasteless  while  the  former  is  juicy  and  of  rich 
fiavor.  While  this  is  true  of  poultry  and  the  larger  game ; with  birds 
which  live  “on  the  wing’’  it  is  just  the  opposite;  their  breasts  are 
juicy  and  more  nutritious  while  the  meat  on  the  thighs  is  poor  and 
dry.  There  are  many  ways  of  preparing  poultry  besides  the  tempt- 
ing roast,  which  make  delicious  and  dainty  dishes ; but  the  first 
secret  of  success  lies  in  the  care  of,  killing,  picking,  singeing,  plump^ 
ing,  cutting  up  and  dressing  of  chickens. and  turkeys.  Very  full 
and  complete  directions  for  which  are  given,  in  Cutting  and  Curing 
Meats  in  the  back  part  of  book.  After  a fowl  is  nicely  dressed,  if  to 
be  served  whole,  it  can  still  be  made  to  look  more  plump  by  flatten- 
ing the  breast  bone ; place  several  thicknesses  of  cloth  over  the  lat- 
ter and  pound  it,  being  careful  not  to  break  the  skin ; then  rub  in- 
side well  with  salt  and  pepper.  Make  any  stuffing  or  force-mea;] 
wished  and  stuff  the  breast  first,  but  not  too  full  or  it  well  burst  in 
cooking ; stuff  the  body  rather  fuller  than  the  breast,  sew  up  both 
openings  with  strong  darning  cotton,  and  sew  the  skin  of  the  neck 
over  upon  the  back  or  down  upon  the  breast,  remembering  that 
these  threads  must  be  carefully  removed  before  sending  to  the  table. 
Lay  the  points  of  the  wings  under  the  back,  and  fasten  in  that  posi- 


POULTRY. 


(595 


Uon  with  a skewer  rim  through  both  wings  and  held  in  place  with 
clean  twine ; press  the  legs  as  closely  towards  the  breast  and  side- 
bones  as  possible,  giving  an  upward  and  pushing  motion,  and  fasten 
with  a skewer  run  through  the  body  and  both  thighs,  push  a short 
skewer  through  above  the  tail,  and  tie  ends  of  legs  down,  with  a 
twine,  close  to  the  skewer ; then  place  the  fowl  on  its  breast  and  take 
the  strings  which  tie  the  legs  and  bring  them  around  the  skewer  in 
the  wings ; pass  them  back  and  forth,  across  the  back,  to  the  skewer 
in  tail  two  or  three  times  and  tie  very  tightly.  Trussing  thus,  a 
handsome  shape  will  be  given,  and  all  the  strings  will  be  on  the  back, 
so  that  the  crust  with  which  the  breast  of  a perfectly  roasted  fowl  is 
covered  need  not  be  broken.  If  one  has  not  skewers,  proceed  as 
above,  tying  in  shape  as  nicely  as  possible.  It  is  now  ready  for 
roasting  or  boiling.  If  to  be  roasted  rub  over  lightly  vvith  salt,  or 
some  do  not  use  any  until  half  done.  Never  use  pepper,  on  the 
outside  until  fowl  is  done  ; as  the  scorching  which  it  undergoes  when 
on  the  surface,  entirely  changes  the  flavor.  Always  use  white  pep- 
per, if  any.  A handsome  appearance  may  be  gained  for  the  roast 
by  larding  the  breast  and  where  the  fowls  are  rather  dry  it  is  a nicer 
ivay.  Proceed  as  directed  on  page  459,  using  a smaller  needle  than 

for  meats.  The  heating,  for  a moment, 
of  the  flesh  renders  it  firmer,  enabl- 
ing one  to  lard  more  easily.  The 
Needle  and  Lardoon  illustratlon  shows  a Separate  needle 

and  lardoon  and  one  ready  for  use.  When  one  can  not  lard,  the 
“barding”,  as  described,  is  A^ery  nice,  especially  for  small  game,  such 
as  quails,  etc.  Botli  chickens  and  turkeys,  if  roasted,  are  thought 
to  be  better  steamed,  especially  if  chickens  are  over  a year  old,  and 
old  chickens  can  be  deliciously  fried  if,  after  cutting,  the  pieces  are 
first  steamed  till  tender.  Stewing  and  boiling  are  ivell  approved 
Avays  of  cooking  chickens  of  a questionable  age.  Always  put  on  in 
boiling  water,  unless  soup  is  wanted,  when  use  cold ; skim  Avhen  it 
boils  up  first,  and  place  where  it  will  only  simmer ; Avhich,  although 
defined  as  “gentle  boiling”  is  by  competent  authorities  on  cookery, 
considered  not  foiling ^ but  just  the  next  step ; a degree  of  heat  hot 
enough  to  coagulate  the  albumen,  and  soften  the  fibrin,  being  of  the 
temperature  of  18l  ' when  tested  by  a thermometer.  When  cooked 
in  water  kept  at  boiling  point,  Avhich  is  much  less  effective  than 
simmering,  the  flesh  becomes  tough  rather  tlian  tender,  and  there  is 


696 


POULTRY. 


both  a waste  of  fuel  and  a poorly-served  fowl.  Putting  in  boiling 
water  at  first  is  very  important  in  order  that  the  surface  may  be 
quickly  sealed,  thus  retaining  all  the  juices;  then  simmering  as  di- 
rected, the  fowl,  or  any  meat,  will  be  tender,  jucier  and  finer  flav- 
ored in  much  less  time  than  if  water  is  always  kept  at  boiling  point ; 
thus  proving  a much  more  economical  as  well  as  satisfactory  method 
of  stevvung  amd  boiling.  A little  vinegar  added  to  the  water  makes  fowls 
more  tender,  and  pinch  of  sugar  adds  to  flavoi ; if  very  old,  some 
sprinkle  a spoonful  soda  over,  letting  stand  a day  or  two,  w^ash- 
ing  off  and  cooking.  The  same  result  would  be  secured  wuthoutthe 
soda,  we  think  ; as  “hanging”  for  a few  days,  or  even  longer,  is  con- 
sidered the  only  approved  way  of  preparing  poultry  by  many, 
especially  among  the  English.  In  roasting  as  in  boiling,  have  a 
high  degree  of  heat  at  first,  for  the  same  purpose  of  searing  the  sur- 
face, then  graduate  to  a moderate  heat  until  done  ; to  test  which  in- 
sert a fork  between  the  thigh  and  body,  if  the  juice  is  watery  and 
not  bloody  it  is  done.  If  not  served  at  once,  the  fowl  may  be  kept 
hot  without  drying  up,  by  placing  it  over  a pan  of  boiling  water,  set 
on  top  of  stove  or  range,  and  inverting  a dripping-pan  over  it.  The 
wire  rack  or  trivet  placed  inside  the  dripping-pan  is  quite  essential 
in  roasting,  or  patty-pans  or  muffin  rings  may  be  used.  The  pan 
for  turkey  should  be  three  or  even  four  inches  deep,  and  measure  at 
the  bottom  about  sixteen  by  twenty  inches,  with  sides  somewhat 
flaring.  Some  roast  wdthout  water,  thinking  the  larding  or  butter 
makes  sufficient  drippings  for  basting;  others  add  a very  little  hot 
water.  When  fowls  are  frozen,  they  must  be  entirely  thawed  in  cold 
water,  before  being  cooked.  Chickens  are  seasonable  at  all  times, 
but  “spring  chickens”  should  be  three  or  four  months  old  to  be  a 
wholesome  diet,  as  the  flesh  is  too  immature  before  that  time.  Tur- 
keys are  decidedly  a fall  and  winter  delicacy.  Poultry  whether 
roasted  or  boiled  maybe  served  with  a Giblet  Gravy  made  as  di- 
rected in  Gravies.  Some  of  the  garnishes  are  parsley,  fried  oysters, 
thin-sliced  ham,  slices  of  lemon,  fried  sausages  or  force-meat  balls. 


Baked  Chicken. — Dress  and  split  young  chickens  open  by  cut- 
ting with  a sharp  knife  down  the  side  of  the  back-bone;  then  press 
apart  and  clean  as  directed,  wipe  perfectly  dry  and  put  in  dripping- 
pan,  bone  side,  or  inside  down,  without  any  w^ater  or  butter;  have 
the  oven  hot  and  they  will  be  done  in  a half  to  three-quarters  of  an 


POULTRY. 


697 


hour.  Take  out,  and  season  with  butter,  salt  and  pepper ; pack  one 
above  another  as  closely  as  possible,  and  place  in  pan  over  boiling 
water,  covering  closely  to  keep  hot  and  moist  while  making  Giblet 
Gravy — see  Gravies.  Or,  when  tender^  spread  over  paste  of  butter  and 
flour  as  in  Roast  Chicken.  These  are  very  nice,  without  gravy,  for 
picnic  or  traveling  lunch, when  the  seasoning  of  butter  should  be  omit 
ted.  Or  for  Buckeye  Baked  Chicken^  cut  each  chicken  int®  seven 
or  nine  pieces,  wash  carefully  and  quickly,  and  put  in  colander  to 
drain;  put  a half  tablespoon  each  lard  and  butter  in  dripping-pan. 
lay  in  the  pieces,  and  add  half  pint  hot  water;  place  in  oven  and 
bake  half  an  hour ; turn,  taking  care  that  they  get  only  to  a light 
brown,  and  just  before  taking  up,  add  salt  and  pepper  to  taste ; when 
done  take  out  in  a dish  and  keep  hot.  To  make  the  grav^g  add  a 
half  pint  or  more  of  water,  set  the  dripping-pan  on  the  stove,  and  add 
tablespoon  flour  mixed  with  half  cup  cream  or  milk,  stirring  slowly, 
adding  a little  of  the  mixture  at  a time.  Let  cook  thoroughly,  stir- 
ring constantly  to  prevent  burning,  and  to  make  the  gravy  nice  and 
smooth;  season  more  if  necessary.  Some  do  not  put  water  in  pan, 
but  use  plenty  of  butter,  or  drippings  and  butter.  For  Baked 
Chicken  with  Parsnips,  wash,  scrape,  and  quarter  parsnips,  and 
parboil  for  twenty  minutes ; prepare  a young  chicken  by  splitting 
open  at  back,  place  in  dripping-pan,  skin  side  up,  lay  parsnips 
:around  it,  sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  add  lump  of  butter 
size  of  an  egg,  or  two  or  three  slices  good  pickled  pork  ; put  enough 
water  in  pan  to  prevent  burning,  place  in  oven  and  bake  until 
chicken  and  parsnips  are  done  a delicate  brown;  serve  chicken 
separately  on  platter,  pouring  the  gravy  in  pan  over  the  parsnips. 
For  Breaded,  Chicken,  cut  a tender  chicken  into  seven  pieces,  roll 
in  beaien  yolks  of  two  eggs,  then  in  finely  grated  bread-crumbs, 
seasoned  with  chopped  parsley,  pepper  and  salt;  place  in  drippings 
pan,  dot  the  pieces  with  tablespoon  butter  in  bits,  add  a little  water 
and  bake  slowly,  basting  often.  When  done,  take  out  chicken  and 
make  gravy  in  pan  by  adding  mixture  of  flour  and  butter,  made 
smooth  by  stirring.  Add  either  cream  or  milk  to  make  sufficient 
gravy,  and  season  to  taste. 


Boiled  Chicken. — Stuff  or  not,  as  wished,  and  then  truss  as  di- 
rected. Put  in  kettle  in  about  a pint  boiling  water,  adding  more  if 
necessary,  but  if  only  simmered  as  directed  in  preface,  more  will  not 
be  needed,  unless  a quantity  of  gravy  is  wished.  After  skimming, 
cover  and  cook  till  tender.  It  will  be  finer  flavored  if  cooked  in  as 
little  water  as  possible.  Take  out  chicken,  add  butter  if  needed, 
and  a slight  thickening  of  browned  flour; 
this  may  be  poured  over  the  chicken ; or  any 
piquant  sauce  may  be  thus  used,  and  a 
sauce-boat  of  Giblet  Gravy  made,  as  directed 
in  Gravies,  adding  the  water  and  chopped  Boned  chickeLwithLice. 
giblets  to  the  kettle.  They  can  be  cooked  with  the  chicken,  but  it 


G98 


POULTBY. 


would  necessitate  more  water  in  order  to  have  plenty  of  gravy, 
and  the  chicken  would  not  be  as  nice ; if  fresh  water  is  added  just 
at  last,  to  make  gravy,  the  latter  will  not  be  as  nicely  flavored,  as  if 
it  were  the  water  in  which  the  giblets  had  been  cooked  an  hour  or 
two.  The  chicken  may  also  be  served  on  a bed  of  Swedish  Rice, 
see  Vegetables,  and  makes  a handsome  dish. 

Broiled  Cliiclcen. — Cut  the  chicken  open  on  the  back  and  pound 
on  meat  board  until  it  will  be  flat ; it  can  then  be  put  on  the  grid- 
iron in  neat,  compact  form,  and  flattening  also  prevents  one  part 
from  burning  while  another  is  underdone.  Put  on  gridiron,  inside 
or  bone  side  down,  as  the  chicken  cooks  more  thoroughly  in  this 
way,  the  inner  surface  being  quickly  seared  and  the  juices  retained. 
Turn,  to  brown  both  sides  nicely,  and  often  enough  to  prevent  burn- 
ing. It  will  take  twenty  or  thirty  minutes  to  cook  thoroughly  and 
will  cook  much  better  to  cover  wuth  a pie  pan  held  down  with  a 
weight  so  that  all  parts  of  chicken  may  lay  close  to  gridiron.  Some 
dip  in  melted  butter  or  rub  over  well  with  butter  before  broiling. 
Serve  very  hot  simply  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper  and  butter ; or 
while  chicken  is  broiling,  put  liver,  gizzard  and  heart  in  saucepan 
and  boil  in  pint  water  until  tender,  take  out  and  add  flour,  butter, 
pepper,  salt,  and  cup  sweet  cream  to  the  water;  when  chicken  is 
done,  dip  it  in  this  gravy  while  hot,  lay  it  back  on  the  gridiron  a 
minute,  then  add  the  chopped  giblets  to  the  gravy,  put  in  the  chicken, 
let  boil  for  a half  minute,  and  send  to  table  hot.  Broiled  Quaily 
prepared  and  served  in  same  way,  is  very  nice.  Unless  the  chicken 
is  very  young  it  should  be  steamed  before  broiling  until  almost  ten- 
der, or  put  in  a hot  oven  ten  minutes.  Some  broil  a few  thin  slices 
of  salt  pork  with  the  chickens  and  serve  them  garnished  with  the 
pork,  slices  of  lemon  and  parsley. 

Fried  U//^bte^.“-Put  frying-pan  on  stove  with  a half  tablespoon 
each  lard  and  butter ; when  hot  lay  in  the  pieces  of  chicken,  sprinkle 
with  flour,  salt  and  pepper,  place  on  lid,  and  cook  over  moderate  fire ; 
when  a light  brown,  turn  the  chicken  and  sprinkle  flour,  salt  and 
pepper  over  top  as  at  first ; if  necessary  add  more  lard  and  butter, 
and  cook  slowly  until  done,  keeping  closely  covered ; make  gravy 
same  as  for  baked  chicken.  As  a general  rule  three-quarters  of  an 
hour  is  long  enough  to  fry  spring  chicken.  To  make  rich  and  nice 
gravy  without  cream,  beat  yolk  of  an  egg  light,  strain  and  stir  slowly 
into  gravy  after  flour  and  milk  have  been  stirred  in  and  thoroughly 
cooked ; as  soon  as  it  boils  up  the  gravy  is  done,  and  should  be  re- 
moved from  stove.  Or  put  in  a tablespoon  each  butter  and  chop- 
ped parsley,  pint  of  cream  and  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper ; stir 
over  the  fire,  loosening  all  browned  particles  from  pan  and  adding 
tablespoon  flour  if  necessary.  Boil  up  and  serve,  poured  over  or 
around  the  chicken,  or  send  on  in  sauce-boat.  Some  dip  pieces  in 
hot  water  and  roll  in  flour  instead  of  sprinkling  with  it,  and  they 


POULTRY. 


699 


may  also  be  single-breaded.  Always  steam  or  parboil  before  frying, 
unless  chickens  are  very  young.  For  (Jreoled  cut  a three 

pound  chicken  as  directed  and  fry  the  back,  thighs,  legs  and  wings  in 
a little  hot  fat  until  half  done ; then  put  in  the  breast  in  two  pieces 
with  tablespoon  chopped  onion,  clove  of  garlic,  chopped,  and  bunch 
herbs  and  fry  five  or  ten  minutes  ; add  an  ordinary  slice  of  raw  ham, 
diced,  four  or  five  large  tomatoes,  cut  in  very  small  pieces,  season- 
ing well  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  when  all  are  cooked,  serve  to- 
gether on  platter.  For  Fried  Gumbo ^ cut  up  two  young  chickens, 
and  fry  in  skillet;  when  brown,  put  in  pot  with  quart  finely  chop- 
ped okra,  four  large  tomatoes,  and  two  onions  chopped  fine  ; cover 
with  boiling  water,  boil  very  slowly,  and  keep  kettle  tightly  closed  ; 
add  boiling  water  as  it  wastes,  and  simmer  slowly  three  hours ; sea- 
son with  salt,  pepper,  and  a little  butter  and  flour  rubbed  together ; 
serve  with  boiled  rice.  A nice  addition  is  a dozen  or  so  oysters 
fried  in  a little  butter  and  added  just  before  serving.  Fried  Whole 
Chiehen  is  a nice  dish  when  the  fowls  are  3mungand  tender.  Truss 
as  for  roasting,  but  do  not  stuff,  then  fry  by  immersing  in  hot  fat 
until  a nice  brown  or  first  single-bread  them.  The  chickens  may  be 
steamed  until  tender,  then  fried  as  above.  Chickens  fried  after  any 
method  given  may  be  garnished  with  fried  oysters,  hominy  or  rice. 

Jellied  Chicken. — Cook  two  chickens  in  small  quantity  of 
water,  until  meat  will  part  from  the  bone  easily ; season  to  taste 
with  salt  and  pepper;  just  as  soon  as  cold  enough  to  handle,  re- 
move bones  and  skin  ; place  meat  in  deep  pan  or  mold,  just  as  it 
comes  from  the  bone,  using  gizzard,  liver  and  heart,  until  the  mold 
is  nearh"  full,  and  put  bones  and  skin  back  in  the  water  chicken 
was  cooked  in.  Boil  this  till  a little  less  than  a quart  and  add  half 
box  or  an  ounce  of  gelatine  dissolved  in  a little 
warm  water,  and  juice  of  lemon  if  wished,  strain 
and  pour  over  chicken  in  mold ; leave  to  cool,  cut 
with  a very  sharp  knife  and  serve.  The  slices 
-will  not  easily  break  up  if  directions  are  followed,  .jemed  chicken'witbEggs. 
Some  add  to  the  broth  an  onion,  stalk  celery,  t^velve  pepper-corns, 
piece  of  mace,  four  cloves,  white  and  shell  of  one  egg  and  salt  and 
pepper  to  taste.  Three  tablespoons  corn-starch  may  be  used  in- 
stead of  the  gelatine.  Sliced  liard-boiled  eggs,  and  thin  slices  of 
lemon,  if  liked,  neatly  arranged  around  bottom  and  sides  of  mold  or 
bowl  add  greatly  to  the  appearance  of  the  dish.  Or  put  in  layers  of 
eggs  and  chopped  chicken  alternately.  Stuffed  Eggs  in  halves  are 
also  molded  with  chicken  wuth  pleasing  effect.  Some  put  in  pud- 
ding dish  and  bake,  turning  out  when  cold.  When  making  chicken 
salad  if  all  bits  of  the  moat  rejected  for  the  salad  are  put  back  into 
the  quart  of  liqfior,  thickened  wuth  gelatine  or  corn-starch  as 
above  and  turned  into  a mold  lined  wuth  sliced  eggs,  a very  good 
Flain  Jellied  Chicken  wull  result.  For  Chicken  in  Jelly ^ soak  an 
ounce  gelatine  in  cup  cold  W’ater  tw^enty  minutes;  squeeze  it  quite 


700 


POULTRY. 


dry  and  melt  it  in  pint  clear  stock  in  which  a large  tablespoon 
marjoram  and  half  the  rind  of  a lemon  have  been  simmered  ten 
minutes.  Season  to  taste  with  salt  and  pepper  and  strain.  Cover 
bottom  of  a mold  half  an  inch  thick  with  the  gravy  and  when  nicely 
set  in  jelly,  place  upon  it  slices  of  hard-boiled  eggs,  slices  of  beet  and 
gherkins  cut  in  fancy  shapes.  Mince  together  the  meat  from  two 
boiled  chickens  and  a half  pound  each  cooked  ham  and  tongue ; 
season  and  press  this  into  compact  shape  and  put  in  center  of  mold, 
leaving  an  inch  of  space  around  every  side ; fill  this  space  with  the 
jelly  which  should  not  be  poured  in  until  quite  cool  so  that  it  may 
harden  quickly  and  preserve  the  shape  of  the  meat.  This  dish  may 
be  made  very  handsome  and  in  cold  weather  will  keep  a week.  For 
a more  elaborate  dish,  cover  bottom  of  mold  with  a clear  gelatine  or 
aspic  jelly  about  an  inch  in  depth  ; when  it  stiffens,  put  a sprig  of 
parsley  in  center,  spreading  the  leaves,  leaving  the  stem  up  and 
hold  it  thus  while  pouring  in  a little  more  half-thickened  jelly; 
when  this  hardens  cut  a hard-boiled  egg  in  two  lengthwise,  and  lay 
the  halves  obliquely  across  it ; cover  these  with  jelly,  and  when  hard 
lay  in  long,  delicate  strips  of  breast  of  chicken,  seasoned  with  pep- 
per and  salt;  cover  with  jelly  to  within  an  inch  and  a half  of  top; 
when  hard,  put  a lining  of  very  thin  lemon  slices  around  mold,  lay 
in  more  bits  of  chicken,  fill  mold  with  jelly,  and  place  on  ice.  While 
filling  mold,  keep  the  jelly  standing  in  hot  water  as  it  must  not 
harden,  and  the  mold  in  a pan  of  ice,  unless  it  is  very  cold  weather, 
when  mold  may  stand  outside  a window.  Always  wet  mold  with 
water  before  using. 

2Iasked  Chicken. — Dissolve  half  ounce  gelatine  in  four  table- 
spoons cold  water ; put  a quart  stock  in  saucepan  with  tablespoon 
vinegar,  sprig  of  parsley,  half  teaspoon  black  pepper  and  half  salt- 
spoon  salt,  and  when  hot  add  the  dissolved  gelatine.  Beat  whites 
of  three  eggs,  adding  four  tablespoons  cold  water,  and  stir  into 
mixture  in  saucepan  with  fork  or  egg  whip.  The  moment  it  boils 
draw  to  back  of.  range  and  simmer  slowly  twenty  minutes,  then 
strain  through  clean  towel  and  let  stand  overnight.  Next  day  cut 
wings  and  legs  from  cold  boiled  fowl,  trim  neatly,  cut  two  fillets  from 
the  breast,  taking  care  not  to  break  the  grain  of  the  meat,  and  remove 
skin ; melt  two  tablespoons  butter  in  saucepan,  stir  in  four  table- 
spoons flour,  add  gradually  half  pint  milk  and  when  boiling  add  a 
gill  cream,  seasoning  of  white  pepper  and  salt,  and  stir  while  it  boils 
two  minutes.  Take  off  fire  and  add  tablespoon  of  the  cold  jelly 
prepared  as  above.  Then  dip  the  pieces  of  chicken  into  this  sauce 
and  place  on  a sieve  to  drain  and  cool  half  an  hour.  When  quite 
cold  arrange  the  pieces  of  masked  chicken  neatly  in  bottom  of  dish, 
chop  the  cold  jelly  coarsely  and  scatter  over  them  and  garnish  with 
fresh  sprigs  of  parsley.  Or  the  hot  sauce  may  be  poured  over  the 
pieces  of  chicken,  set  away  to  cool,  and  at  serving  time  dish  them, 
with  the  sauce  that  will  adhere,  on  large  slices  of  cold  sweet-pota- 


POULTRY. 


701 


toes,  fried  a golden  brown  in  butter,  putting  a lump  of  the  jelly  on 
each  piece  of  chicken.  Garnish  with  parsley. 

Pickled  Chicken. — Boil  four  chickens  till  tender  enough  for 
meat  to  fall  from  bones ; put  meat  in  stone  jar,  and  pour  over  it  three 
pints  cold  vinegar,  and  a pint  and  half  of  water  in  which  chickens 
were  boiled ; add  spices  if  preferred,  and  it  will  be  ready  for  use  in 
two  days.  A very  delicious  relish. 

Potted  Chicken. — Pick  meat  from  the  bones  of  cold  roast  fowl, 
free  from  gristle  and  skin,  weigh,  and  to  every  pound  meat  allow 
four  tablespoons  fresh  butter,  teaspoon  pounded  mace,  half  a nutmeg, 
grated,  pepper  and  salt  to  taste.  Cut  meat  in  small  pieces,  pound 
it  well  with  the  fresh  butter,  sprinkle  in  the  spices  gradually,  and 
keep  pounding  until  reduced  to  a perfectly  smooth  paste.  Put  into 
potting-pots  and  cover  with  clarified  butter,  about  one-fourth  inch 
in  thickness ; and  if  to  " " ' or  some  time,  tie  over  a buttered 


paper,  or  cloth  cover 


one  of  oil-cloth.  Two  or  three 


slices  of  ham,  minced  and  pounded  with  the  above  ingredients,  will 
be  found  an  improvement.  Keep  in  a dry  place . 

Pressed  Chicken. — Take  one  or  two  chickens,  boil  in  small 
quantity  of  water  with  a little  salt,  and  when  thoroughly  done,  take 
all  meat  from  bones,  removing  skin,  and  keeping  the  light  meat 
separate  from  the  dark ; chop  and  season  to  taste  with  salt  and  pep- 
per. If  a meat  presser  is  at  hand  take  it,  qr  any  other  mold  or  a 
crock  or  pan  will  do ; put  in  a layer  of  light  and  a layer  of  dark 
meat  till  all  is  used,  add  the  liquor  it  was  boiled  in,  which  should 
be  about  one  cup,  and  put  on  a heavy  weight  until  cold ; when  cold 
cut  in  slices.  Prepare  the  day  before  it  is  wanted  and  keep  in  cool 
place.  Many  chop  all  the  meat  together,  add  one  pounded  cracker 
to  the  liquor  it  was  boiled  in,  and  mix  all  thoroughly  before  putting 
in  mold ; either  way  is  nice.  Some  add  half  as  much  chopped  ham 
as  chicken  and  hard-boiled  eggs  may  be  molded  with  it  as  in  Jellied 
Chicken.  Celery  tops  are  a nice  garnish  or  sprigs  of  parsley. 
Pressed  Turkey  is  prepared  same  way,  slicing  instead,  of  chopping. 
Either  of  the  above  makes  very  fine  sandwiches. 

Roast  Chicken. — After  cleaning,  stuff  and  truss  a six  pound 
chicken  as  directed  in  preface,  using  for  the  filling,  pint  and  a half 
dry  bread-crumbs,  four  tablespoons  warm  milk,  half  cup  butter^ 
level  tablespoon  salt,  teaspoon  each  chopped  parsley,  white  pepper, 
and  summer  savory,  half  teaspoon  each  powdered  sage  and  mar- 
joram and  yolk  of  an  egg,  mixed  well  together.  Or  omit  egg  and 
milk  and  use  half  pint  butter,  melted.  Place  chicken  on  its  side 
on  trivet,  in  pan  in  hot  oven  and  baste  every  ten  or  fifteen  minutes 
with  a little  water  and  butter.  When  half  done,  season  v/ith  salt 
and  continue  to  dredge,  baste  and  froth  as  in  Larded  Turkey.  When 
done,  dish  and  make  a Giblet  Gravy  as  directed.  Some  add  a little 


702 


POULTRY. 


hot  water  at  first,  others  when  half  done.  Or  for  a French  Roast^ 
dredge  with  salt,  mb  over  thickly  with  soft  butter,  then  dredge  very 
thoroughly  with  hour ; place  on  the  trivet  and  in  ten  minutes  add  a 
little  hot  water  to  pan;  baste  and  finish  as  above.  Serve  when 
nicely  browned  and  frothed,  with  Giblet  Gravy.  It  is  claimed  that 
the  rich  paste  of  butter  and  flour  keeps  in  the  juices,  giving  a fine 
flavored  roast,  and  that  it  is  really  more  economical,  less  butter  be- 
ing required  than  when  simply  basted  with  melted  butter.  Or  roast 
and  baste  as-  in  first  recipe,  and  when  tender,  season  and  spread 
over  a smooth  paste  of  two  tablespoons  butter  and  four  of  flour  and 
serve  when  nicely  browned  without  more  basting.  Or  for  a more 
elaborate  dish  stuff  and  truss,  then  lard  as  directed  in  preface  and 
roast  as  above,  basting  with  the  drippings, 
using  butter  and  flour  with  which  to  froth 
it  nicely  at  the  last.  Or  bone  the  chicken 
as  directed  in  Cutting  and  Curing  Meats, 
leaving  in  the  leg  and  wing  bones,  and 
stuff  with  bread-dressing  or  any  force-meat,  then  sew  in  shape  truss- 
ing the  wings  and  legs  close  to  the  back , lard  and  roast  as  above. 
This  makes  a nice  dish  to  serve,  as  being  boneless,  is  easily  carved 
across  in  handsome  slices.  Veal  Force-meat  is  delicious  with  this. 


Larded  Chicken. 


Smothered  Chicken. — Cut  up  chicken  in  seven  or  nine  pieces 
and  put  in  dripping-pan  in  pint  boiling  water,  sprinkle  with  salt, 
pepper,  flour,  and  dot  with  bits  of  butter;  cover  closely  with  an- 
other pan  and  bake  two  hours  in  moderate  oven.  If  the  chicken  is 
very  tender,  less  time  will  do  : if  tough  more  is  necessary.  When 
tender,  take  the  fowl  from  the  pan  and  keep  hot  till  ready  to  serve. 
Make  a gravy  from  wdiat  is  left  in  the  pan  ; if  there  is  much  fat,  pour 
it  off  and  add  enough  flour  rubbed  smooth  in  a little  water  to 
thicken.  Or,  split  the  chicken  down  the  back  as  for  broiling,  lay 
inside  down  in  baking  pan,  add  water  and  cover  as  above ; then 
bake  forty  minutes,  when  baste  freely  with  butter  and  a little  of  the 
gravy  or  drippings  from  fowls.  In  ten  minutes  baste  again  wuth 
gravy  from  the  pan,  and  in  five  more,  with  melted  butter,  dipping  it 
plentifully  all  over  the  fowls,  which  should  now  begin  to  brown. 
Season  with  salt  and  increase  heat,  still  keeping  chickens  covered. 
A few  minutes  before  dishing  test  with  a fork.  When  tender  serve 
with  Giblet  Gravy.  Some  prepare  thus  and  let  cook  without  bast- 
ing till  tender  and  beginning  to  brown.  Then  spread  over  with  a 
paste  made  of  two  tablespoons  butter  and  four  of  flour  and  baste 
every  ten  minutes  with  drippings  in  pan  until  a rich  brown.  Serve 
with  a gravy  poured  over  chicken,  made  by  adding  milk  and  thick- 
ening to  drippings  in  pan.  Or  With  Oysters^  stuff  and  truss  as  di- 
rected, fill  the  breast  with  chopped  oysters,  parsley  and  bread- 
crumbs, and  stuff  the  body  wuth  oysters  alone,  put  in  a clean  tin 
pail  with  closely  fitting  cover,  and  set  in  kettle  of  cold  water.  Cook 
slowly  for  more  than  an  hour  after  water  in  outer  vessel  begins  to 


POULTRY. 


703 


boil.  If  the  fowl  is  not  young,  it  may  require  cooking  two  hours. 
Do  not  open  the  tin  pail  in  less  than  an  hour.  When  chicken  is 
tender,  take  out  on  hot  dish,  covering  immediately.  Turn  the  gravy 
into  a saucepan,  thicken  with  tablespoon  corn-starch,  and  three 
tablespoons  cream,  chopped  parsley,  seasoning  to  taste,  and  yolks 
of  three  hard-boiled  eggs,  chopped  fine.  Boil  up  once,  pour  a little 
over  the  chicken,  and  serve  the  rest  in  gravy-boat. 

Steamed  Chicken. — Rub  chicken  on  the  inside  with  pepper  and 
half  teaspoon  salt,  place  in  patent  steamer  or  over  a kettle  that  will 
keep  it  as  near  the  water  as  possible,  cover,  and  steam  an  hour  and 
a half;  when  done  keep  hot  while  dressing  is  prepared,  then  cut 
^ them  up,  arrange*  on  platter,  and  serve  with  the  dressing  over  them. 
The  dressing  is  made  as  follows  : Boil  pint  gravy  from  kettle  with- 
out fat,  add  cayenne  pepper  and  half  teaspoon  salt ; stir  six  table- 
spoons flour  into  quarter  pint  cream  until  smooth,  and  add  to  gravy. 
Corn-starch  may  be  used  instead  of  flour,  and  some  add  nutmeg  oi 
celery  salt.  Or  stuff,  truss,  steam  and  brown  as  Steamed  Turkey. 

Steioed  Chicken. — Cut  up  chickens  as  for  frying,  place  in  boil* 
ing  water  to^cover  and  stew  as  directed  in  preface  until  tender,  add* 
ing  more  hot  water  occasionally  as  needed.  When  done,  add  table- 
spoon butter  mixed  Avith  tablespoon  flour,  stirring  it  in  a little  at  a 
time,  and  season  with  pepper  and  salt.  Or  put  the  butter  in  the 
stew  and  mix  the  flour  smooth  in  a little  Avater  before  adding.  A 
pinch  of  sugar  is  an  addition  to  all  stews.  For  a Creeled  St&w^  cut 
up  a chicken  and  fry  slightly ; then  take  out  pieces  of  chicken  and 
dredge  a little  flour  into  the  fat  they  Avere  fried  in ; add  sufficient 
water  to  make  the  gravy,  and  one  pound  of  skinned  and  cut-up 
tomatoes.Avith  a medium-sized  onion  also  cut  up,  and  a little  chopped 
parsley,  cayenne,  and  black  pepper ; season  to  taste  Avith  salt,  and 
steAv  until  thoroughly  incorporated  ; put  in  the  chicken  with  three 
tablespoons  butter,  and  steAV  two  hours  longer ; then  put  in  a pint 
of  AA'ell-washed  rice  and  steAV  another  hour.  SerA^e  with  the  gravy 
poured  over.  Instead  of  frying,  some  stew  the  chickens  until  ten- 
der Avith  the  onion  and  a slice  of  broiled  ham ; then  take  out  and 
prepare  other  ingredients  as  aboA-e,  omitting  the  rice,  and  serAung 
with  a pint  of  pease,  cooked  separately,  strewn  over  the  dish.  For  a 
Brunswick  Stew^  cut  up  a chicken  and  boil  four  onions  in  a quart 
water  Avith  tAvo  or  three  slices  fat  bacon  cut  in  small  pieces ; then 
add  half  pint  each  ripe  tomatoes,  peeled  and  cut  fine,  butter  or 
lima  beans,  parboiled,  and  sweet-corn,  teaspoon  each  pepper  and 
sugar,  butter  size  of  hen’s  egg  and  salt  to  taste.  SteAV  all  together 
gently  for  an  hour,  take  out  all  bones  and  serve  hot,  adding  a little 
thickening  if  necessary.  Squirrels  are  nice  steAved  same  way.  The 
bacon  may  be  omitted  if  not  liked.  Serve  chicken  in  center  of 
dish  and  A^egetables  around.  For  a German  Stew.,  clean,  stuff  and 
truss  a pair  of  chickens,  as  for  roasting  and  dredge  well  Avith  salt, 


70^ 


POULTRY. 


pepper  and  flour.  Cut  a quarter  pound  pork  in  slioes,  and  put  part 
on  bottom  of  a deep  stewpan  with  two  slices  of  carrot  and  an  onion, 
cut  fine.  Stir  over  fire  until  slightly  browned,  put  in  the  chickens, 
lay  remainder  of  pork  over  them,  and  place  in  hot  oven  for  twenty 
minutes ; then  add  white  stock  to  half  cover  the  chicken  (about  two 
quarts),  and  a bunch  sweet  herbs.  Dredge  well  with  flour,  covei 
pan  and  return  to  oven.  Baste  ever/  fifteen  minutes,  and  after 
cooking  an  hour,  turn  the  chicken,and  cook  two  hours  in  all.  Serve 
with  the  grav/  in  which  chickens  were  cooked,  strained  over  them. 
Prepare  Curried  Chicken  by  cutting  up  as  above  and  put  in  stew- 
pan  with  little  boiling  water,  put  on  tight  cover  and  simmer  twenty 
minutes.  Take  out  chicken  and  put  in  some  thin  pieces  of  salt 
pork  and  two  sliced  onions.  In  a few  minutes  remove  pork,  re- 
place the  chicken,  mix  a teaspoon  of  curry-powder,  gently  through 
the  gravy,  add  cup  each  rice,  and  fresh  grated  cocoanut  and  boil  all 
together  until  tender.  Or  truss  whole,  put  slices  of  pork  in  kettle, 
then  the  chicken,  cover,  and  cook  till  beginning  to  be  tender ; then 
add  cup  of  well-washed  rice,  cook  till  tender  adding  hot  water  as 
needed.  Dish  chicken,  keep  hot  and  add  heaping  teaspoon  curry- 
powder  to  rice,  stir  gently  and  place  on  platter  with  chicken  in  center. 

TruMed  Chicken. — Bone  one  chicken,  cut  off  the  fillets  or  white 
meat  of  two  more  and  lay  them  all  side  by  side  on  the  table.  Cut 
a half  pound  fat  salt  pork  in  thin  strips,  score  gashes  in  thick  parts 
of  the  chicken  and  lay  in  the  strips,  cut  up  a large  can  of  truffles 
and  arrange  the  pieces  evenly  where  they  will  show  the  black  spots 
in  the  white  meat  when  chicken  is  sliced.  Dredge  well  with  salt  and 
white  pepper,  a little  nutmeg  and  powdered  thyme.  Then  lay  the 
chicken  breasts  in  the  thin  places  of  the  boned  fowl,  bring  the  two 
sides  together  and  sew  up  the  fowl  into  nearly  its  original  shape. 
Roll  in  a floured  cloth,  tie  and  pin  it,  and  boil  two  hours  in  salted 
broth,  press  it  while  cooling.  Take  off  cloth  when  cold,  draw  out 
thread  from  fowl  and  serve  either  incased  in  Aspic  Jelly,  or  coated 
with  glaze,  or  slice  and  arrange  nicely  on  a dish. 

Chicken  Croquettes. — Boil  two  fowls  weighing  five  pounds  each 
till  very  tender,  mince  fine,  add  pint  cream,  half  pint  butter,  salt 
and  pepper  to  taste ; make  in  oval  shapes  and  fry  like  fritters. 

Chicken  Cutlets. — Cut  off  legs  of  a chicken  with  all  the  meat 
that  can  be  obtained  by  cutting  close  to  the  body,  and  also  the 
breast  meat  attached.  This  will  give  four  pieces  of  chicken  with  a 
bone  in  each  one  which  must  be  scraped  up  like  cutlet  bone  wfith 
plenty  of  meat  at  the  end  of  it,  the  same  as  a lamb  chop.  The  leg 
cutlets  consist  of  drumstick  and  second  joint ; the  others  have  the 
fillet  or  breast  and  the  wing  bone.  Chop  off  the  knob  ends.  The 
bone  of  second  joint  should  be  loosened  from  meat,  ail  meat  pushed 
to  one  side  of  it,  and  the  bone  pushed  through  a hole  made  in  edge 


POULTRY. 


705 


of  meat— ;^()  make  it  look  like  a lamb  chop — and  the  ends  of  bones 
Bhould  be  ficraped  clean  for  about  an  inch.  When  all  are  prepared, 
parboil  by  dropping  the  cutlets  in  boiling  water  or  broth  well  season- 
ed, or  they  lose  their  shape.  When  they  have  boiled  five  min- 
utes lay  them  flat  on  dish  or  pan,  put  other  dish  and  a heavy  weight 
on  top  and  let  them  get  quite  cold.  After  that  trim  and  shape  them 
neatly.  Single-bread  each  cutlet,  using'  cracker-dust,  and  fry  in  lard 
or  butter  in  frying-pan.  Or  they  may  be  Larded  as  directed,  and 
cooked  as  above  without  breading.  Or  for  French  CiUlets,  cut  cold 
boiled  fowl  into  as  many  nice  cutlets  as  possible  ; take  correspond- 
ing number  of  croutons  of  bread,  about  same  size,  all  cut  one  shape  ; 
fry  a pale  broWn  and  put  them  in  oven  to  keep  hot ; then  dip  cut- 
lets into  clarified  butter  mixed  with  yolk  of  an  egg,  cover  with  bread- 
crumbs, seasoned  with  finely  minced  lemon  peel,  mace,  salt  and 
cayenne ; fry  about  ‘five  minutes,  put  each  piece  on  one  of  the 
croutons,  pile  them  high  in  dish,  and  serve  with  the  following  sauce^ 
which  should  be  made  ready  for  the  cutlets.  Put  two  tablespoons 
butter  into  a stewpan,  add  two  minced  shalots,  a few  slices  of  car- 
rot, bunch  sweet  herbs,  blade  pounded  mace,  and  six  pepper-corns  ; 
fry  ten  minutes  or  more  ; pour  in  half  pint  good  gravy,  made  of  the 
chicken  bones,  stew  gently  for  twenty  minutes,  strain  and  serve. 
Two  tablespoons  mushroom  catsup  and  a beaten  egg  may  be  adde<l 
to  the  gravy.  Cutlets  of  any  fowl  are  prepared  same  way. 

Chicken  Essence. — Take  the  legs  and  wings  of  six  chickens  and 
break  the  bones ; put  in  pan  with  two  pounds  fillet  of  veal  cut  in 
four  or  five  pieces.  Add  three  quarts  chicken  broth,  and  medium- 
sized  carrot  well  cleansed  and  scraped,  two  onions  ( one  of  them  stuck 
with  tAvo  cloves),  and  bunch  sweet  herbs.  Boil  up,  skim,  and  then 
simmer  till  meat  is  perfectly  done.  Strain  through  a cloth,  remove 
all  fat,  and  put  it  aside  for  use. 

Chicken  Fillets. — The  fillets  are  the  pieces  on  each  side  of  the 
breast  bone.  F or  cutting  see  Cutting  and  Curing  Meats.  They  are 
nice  larded  Avith  fine  strips  of  fat  salt  pork,  then  single-breaded  and 
fried  and  served  on  hot  dish  with  spoonful  Tartare  Sauce  on  each. 
These  are  called  Breaded  Fillets.  Or  they  may  be  pounded  lightly 
with  the  potato  masher  to  flatten  them,  seasoned  Avith  pepper  and 
salt,  dredged  well  Avith  flour  and  fried  in  tAvo  tablespoons  butter 
about  tAA^enty  minutes,  or  until  a nice  broAvn  on  both  sides.  Make  a 
gravy  by  adding  a cup  and  half  milk  to  fat  in  pan,  Avith  tablespoon 
flour  and  seasoning  to  taste.  Serve  the  Fried  Fillets  resting  against 
a mound  of  mashed  potatoes  or  green  pease  with  the  graA-y  poured 
round,  and  all  very  hot.  Yoy  Braised  Fillets  .fiscal  as  aboA^e,  put 
in  pan  AAuth  thin  slice  of  pork  and  an  onion  and  cook  sloAvly  half  an 
hour.  Then  add  pint  stock  or  Avater  and  bones  of  chicken,  cover 
and  cook  in  moderate  oven  basting  frequently  AAuth  the  graAyy.  Take 
up  and  drain  the  fillets,  di[)  in  melted  butter,  dredge  lightly  with 
45 


706 


POULTRY. 


flour  and  broil  till  light  brown.  Serve  on  a hot  dish  with  the  gravy 
from  pan  thickened  and  poured  around,  or  on  a mound  of  mashed 
potato  with  garnish  of  parsley.  Fillets  of  any  fowl  cooked  same 

Chicken  Fricassee. — Cut  up  and  put  on  to  boil,  skin  side  down, 
in  small  quantity  of  boiling  water,  season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  slices 
of  onion  if  liked ; stew  gently  until  tender,  remove  chicken,  add  half 
pint  cream  or  milk  to  gravy,  and  thicken  with  butter  and  flour  rub- 
bed smoothly  together  (adding  a little  of  the  gravy  to  soften  and 
help  mix  them),  let  boil  two  or  three  minutes,  add  a little  chopped 
parsley  and  a beaten  egg  or  two,  if  wanted  very  rich  and  serve.  Or 
first  fry  the  chicken  brown  in  a little  hot  lard,  take  out  chicken,  add 
a tablespoon  flour,  and  let  cook  a minute,  stirring  constantly ; add 
a pint  water  (or  stock  if  at  hand),  a little  vinegar  or  Worcestershire 
sauce,  season  with  salt  and  pepper ; when  it  has  boiled,  remove 
from  tire,  strain,  add  the  beaten  yolk  of  an  egg,  pour  over  the 
chicken  and  serve.  Or,  put  chicken  in  saucepan  with  barely  enough 
water  to  cover,  stew  gently  until  tender ; have  a frying-pan  prepared 
with  a few  slices  of  salt  pork,  drain  chicken  and  fry  with  pork  until 
it  is  a fine,  rich  brown ; take  chicken  and  bits  of  pork  from  tlie  pan, 
pour  in  the  broth,  thicken  with  browned  flour,  mixed  smooth  with  a 
little  water,  and  season  with  pepper,  and  a little  nutmeg  if  flavor  is 
liked ; now  put  chicken  and  pork  hack  into  gravy,  let  simmer  a few 
minute*^*,  and  serve  very  hot  on  slices  of  buttered  toast,  or  hot  bak- 
ing-powder biscuit,  split  in  two.  Gr  add  enough  hot  water  to  pan 
chicken  was  cooked  in  to  boil  dumplings,  and  serve  them  around 
platter.  Some  like  the  flavor  of  part  of  a head  of  celery  boiled  witt 
the  chicken,  or  parsley  and  a blade  of  mace,  and  oysters  are  some- 
times added,  boiling  up  once  before  dishing.  Or  cook  the  chicken 

until  tender  with  a small  carrot,  pared  and 
left  whole,  and  one  dozen  small  onions, 
peeled ; then  take  np  and  keep  hot  while 
gravy  is  made;  strain  out  vegetables,  and 
let.  broth  boil ; mix  tablespoon  butter  and 
two  of  flour  together  over  the  fire  until  a 
snaqoth  paste ; then  gradually  add  a pint  and  a half  of  the  broth, 
stirring  the  gravy  with  an  egg  whip  until  quite  smooth ; season  to 
taste  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  dish  on  hot  platter;  a half  can  mush- 
rooms greatly  improves  the  flavor.  In  serving  any  of  above  ways, 
arrange  pieces  as  nearly  as  possible  to  simulate  a whole  chicken, 
and  garnish  with  tufts  of  parsley  or  tender  inside  heads  of  lettuce. 

Chicken  Patties. — Pick  meat  from  one  or  two  boiled  chickens, 
cut  into  long  strips  and  then  across  into  small  dice.  Put  in  sauce- 
pan, season  with  white  pepper  or  cayenne,  a grating  of  nutmeg,  the 
juice  of  half  a lemon,  salt  and  tablespoon  butter.  Pour  Dver  it  a 
pint  white  sauce  to  each  pint  chicken,  gently  simmer  at  back  of 
range  or  on  a brick  on  top  ofrange  till  time  to  serve  ; then  fi] ! heated 


Chicken  Fricassee. 


POULTRY. 


707 


Patty  Shells  with  it.  Or  add  to  the  diced  meat  from  one  chicken  a cup 
each  cream  and  the  broth  it  was  cooked  in,  butter  size  of  egg  mixed 
with  tablespoon  flour  and  simmer  gently  until  it  begins  to  thicken ; 
add  beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs,  pepper,  salt,  little  grated  nutmeg  and 
lemon  peel,  and  just  before  serving  the  juice  of  a lemon.  Fill  shells. 

Chicken  Gems. — Pound  or  chop  fine  any  cold  chicken,  add 
same  amount  of  bread-crumbs  soaked  soft  in  milk,  two  eggs,  salt 
and  pepper,  chopped  parsley,  and  a spoonful  of  butter ; mix,  put  in 
buttered  gem  pans,  bake  twenty  minutes.  Eat  with  Caper  Sauce  or 
green  salad,  it ish  Gems  are  nice  made  same  way. 

Chicken  Pie. — Cut  up  two  young  chickens  in  nine  pieces,  place 
in  boiling  water  enough  to  cover,  and  as  it  boils  away  add  more  so 
as  to  have  enough  for  the  pie  and  for  gravy  to  serve  with  it,  boil  un- 
til tender,  skimming  well ; line  sides  of  a four  or  six-quart  pan  with 
a rich  baking-powder  or  soda-biscuit  dough,  or  Quaker  Paste,  quar- 
ter of  an  inch  thick,  put  in  part  of  chicken,  after  removing  breast- 
bone, pointing  each  piece  toward  the  center,  so  as  to  interfere 
as  little  as  possible'in  the  serving  ; season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  but- 
ter, lay  in  a few  thin  strips  or  squares  of  dough,  add  the  rest  of 
chicken  and  season  as  before  ; some  add  laj^ers  of  five  or  six  sliced, 
hard-boiled  eggs  ; season  liquor  in  v/hich  the  chickens  were  boiled, 
with  butter,  salt  and  pepper,  add  a part  of  it  to  the  pie,  cover  with 
crust  a quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  pinch  edges  well  together  and  cut 
a hole  in  center  size  of  a tea-cup.  Keep  adding  chicken  liquor  as 
needed,  since  the  fault  of  most  chicken  pies  is  that  they  are  too  dry. 
There  can  scarce!}^  be  too  much  gravy.  Bake  an  hour  in  a moder- 
ate oven,  and  just  before  it  is  done,  brush  the  top  with  Pastry 
Glaze.  To  make  gravy,  add  to  liquor  left  in  pot,  if  not 
enough  add  hot  water  or  milk,  a tablespoon  or  two  of  butter  mixed 
to  a paste  with  flour,  and  seasoned  with  pepper  and  salt.  This 
should  be  stirred,  a little  at  a time,  into  the  liquor ; let  boil  up  once 
and  serve,  straining  if  at  all  lumpy.  Some  boil  with  the  chicken  a 
half  pound  lean  salt  pork  cut  in  strips  and  add  it  to  the  pie.  Or 
With  Potatoes^  four  or  five  potatoes  may  be  put  in  with  the  chicken 
when  stewing,  before  it  is  quite  done,  with  a seasoning  of  salt; 
then  put  alternate  layers  of  chicken  and  sliced  potatoes,  in  the  pan 
or  dish,  with  the  bits  of  dough,  and  finish  as  above.  If  new  potatoes 
are  used  they  do  not  need  to  be  first  cooked.  A little  chopped 
jiarsley  or  celery  improves  the  pie,  and  always  add  a 
pinch  of  sugar.  Some  put  in  a pint  of  sweet  cream  just 
before  the  pie  is  done,  let  cook  a minute  and  serve.  Or 
With  Oysters^  boil  chicken  until  tender,  drain  off  liquor 
from  a quart  of  oysters,  boil,  skim,  line  the  sides  of  a dish  with  a 
rich  crust,  put  in  a layer  of  chicken,  then  a layer  of  raw  oysters,  and 


Closed  Mold. 


708 


POULTRY. 


repeat  until  dish  is  filled,  seasoning  each  layer  with  pepper,  salt, 
and  bits  of  butter,  and  adding  the  oyster  liquor  and  a 
part  of  the  chicken  liquor  until  the  liquid  is  even  with 
top  layer ; cover  loosely  with  a crust, and  finish  as  above. 
If  liquor  cooks  away,  add  chicken  gravy  or  hot  water. 

Aviien  Opened,  gomc  Hoe  bottom  of  dish  with  crust,  put  in  oven  till 
partially  baked,  then  line  the  sides,  fill,  cover,  and  bake  ; it  is  always 
difficult  to  bake  the  crust  on  the  bottom  of  dish  unless  this  plan  is 
adopted.  A better  plan  is  without  bottom  crust  as 
above.  Elaborate  molds  are  made  for  pies,  such  a,s 
the  closed  mold  given;  the  crust  being  placed  in  it 
after  it  is  buttered,  and  then  pressed  well  into  the 
indentations ; fill  and  cover  as  above.  When  done,  take  out 
the  wires  fastening  the  sides  together,  and  remove  pie  to  a hot 
platter,  and  serve  at  once.  Meat  or  Game  Pies  can  be  made  as 
any  of  above.  For  Gihlet  Pie,  clean  and  put  a set  duck  or  goose 
giblets  into  stewpan  with  an  onion,  haif  teaspoon  whole  pepper,  and 
a bunch  of  sw^eet  herbs  ; add  rather  more  than  a pint  water,  and  sim- 
mer gently  for  a,bout  one  and  a half  hours.  Take  out,  let  cool,  and 
cut  into  pieces  ; line  bottom  of  a pie  pan  with  a few  pieces  of  rump 
steak,  add  a layer  of  giblets  and  a few  more  pieces  of  steak  ; season 
with  pepper  and  salt,  and  pour  in  strained  gravy  from  the  giblets ; 
cover  with  a Short  Paste  (see  Pastry  and  bake  for  rather  more  than 
one  and  a half  hours  in  a brisk  oven.  Cover  a piece  of  paper  over 
pie,  to  prevent  too  much  browning  of  crust.  For  another  Panned 
Pie^  chop  pieces  of  roast,  or  any  cold  chicken  in  about  half-inch 
dice,  add  any  bits  of  dressing  and  moisten  v/ith  gravy,  if  any,  adding 
hot.  water  as  needed  ; stew  till  well  heated,  season,  and  place  in  pie 
pan  lined  with  a plain  paste,  cover  with  a Puff  Paste  and  bake.  A 
little  Chilli  Sauce  or  any  chopped  pickle  may  be  added. 

Ghicken  Pot-pie. — Cut  up  chicken,  put  in  enough  boiling  water 
t o cover,  and  take  care  that  it  does  not  cook  dry ; while  cooking, 
cut  off  a slice  from  bread  dough,  add  a small  piece  lard  or  butter 
and  mix  up  like  light  biscuit,  roll,  cut  with  biscuit-cutter  and  set 
by  stove  to  rise ; wash  and  pare  potatoes  of  moderate  size,  and  add 
them  when  chicken  is  almost  done ; when  potatoes  begin  to  boil, 
season  with  salt  and  pepper,  put  in  dumplings,  first  adding  a cup 
of  cold  water  or  milk,  to  lessen  the  temperature  of  water,  that  the 
dumplings  may  rise  lighter,  and  season  again,  adding  a pinch  sugar. 
See  that  there  is  water  enough  t(j  keep  from  burning,  cover  very 
tightly,  and  do  not  take  cover  off*  until  dum]:)lings  are  done.  They 
will  cook  in  half  an  hour,  and  may  be  tested  by  lifting  one  edge  of 
the  lid,  taking  out  a dumpling  and  breaking  it  open.  Or,  the  dump- 
lings may  be  placed  in  steamer  over  cold  v/ater,  and  if  not  in  a pat- 
ent steamer,  be  careful  to  leave  some  of  the  holes  in  steamer  open, 
as  if  all  are  covered  by  the  dumplings,  the  steam  wull  not  be  admit- 
ted, and  they  will  not  cook  well.  If  there  are  too  many  dumplings 


POULTRY. 


709 


to  lie  on  bottom  without  covering  all  holes,  attach  them  to  side  and 
upper  edge  of  steamer  by  wetting  dough  and  pressing  to  the  edge. 
When  done  remove  to  platter  around  the  chicken  and  pour  hot 
gravy  over  them.  Dish  potatoes  by  themselves.  Ma.ke  gravy  as  for 
Chicken  Pie,  adding  more  boiling  water  if  needed.  Or  make  dump- 
lings with  one  pint  sour  milk,  two  well-beaten  eggs,  half  teaspoon 
soda  (mixed  in  part  of  the  flour),  and  flour  enough  to  make  as  stifl 
as  can  be  stirred  with  a spoon ; or  baking  powder  and  sweet  milk 
may  be  used.  Drop  in  by  spoonfuls,  cover  tightly,  and  boil  as 
above,  or  pinch  off  balls  from  baking-powder  dough  and  add.  A 
pot-pie  ma}^  be  made  from  a good  boiling  piece  of  beef ; if  too  much 
grease  arises  skim  off.  Cut  out  diamond-shaped  pieces  from  some 
of  the  dough,  and  bake  in  oven,  with  which  to  garnish  the  pot-pie 
when  served.  Another  way  of  making  is  to  grease  a deep  pot  with 
lard,  roll  out  enough  plain  crust  to  line  it,  cutting  out  the  bottom  ; 
as  the  pieces  of  chicken  are  put  in,  strev/  in  flour,  salt  and  pepper, 
a few  pieces  of  crust  rolled  thin,  and  a few  parboiled  and  sliced  po- 
tatoes ; cover  this  with  water,  and  then  with  paste  with  a slit  in  the 
middle.  Cook  slowly  two  hours,  adding  hot  water  if  necessary. 
Veal  and  Lamb  may  be  made  in  same  v/ay.  Some  leave  the  lining 
whole,  cut  out  two- or  three  rounds  of  paste  or  dough  a little  smaller 
than  the  kettle  and  put  in  with  layers  of  chicken  and  season- 
ing at  bottom  and  between,  adding  a half  cup  water  before  putting 
on  top  crust,  and  bake  in  moderate  oven  three-quarters  of  an  hour. 
Serve  turned  out  on  a dish  with  sauce-boat  of  gravy  made  as  for 
Chicken  Pie.  Another  way  of  preparing  is  to  cook  the  chicken  in 
three  pints  water ; first  cooking  tablespoon  butter,  a large  onion  and 
three  slices  each  carrot  and  turnip,  all  cut  flue,  half  an  hour,  stir- 
ring constantly,  then  pulp  them  through  a colander  into  the  kettle 
with  the  chicken.  »Stir  three  tablespoons  flour,  with  tv/o  of  chicken 
fat,  in  pan  in  which  vegetables  were  fried,  until  brown  and  add  to 
chicken ; season  well  with  pepper  and  salt  and  stew  gently  twm 
hours.  Fifteen  minutes  before  serving  drop  in  some  dumplings 
and  place  kettle  where  it  will  cook  rapidly.  Dish  chicken  in  center 
of  platter  and  dumplings  around,  serving  gravy  in  sauce-boat. 

Chicken  Pudding. — Dress  and  cut  one  chicken  into  small  pieces, 
put  in  saucepan  or  kettle  with  a little  water,  let  boil  until  it  begins 
to  grow  tender,  then  take  out  and  put  into  a three-quart  pudding 
dish,  season  with  salt  and  pepper;  have  ready  one  quart  green  corn 
grated  or  cut  fine,  to  which  add  three  eggs  beaten  light  and  one  pint 
S'veet  milk;  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  pour  this  mixture  over 
the  chicken,  dredge  thickly  with  flour,  lay  on  bits  of  butter  and 
bake  until  done.  Or  make  a smooth  batter  of  a pound  flour,  tea- 
spoon salt,  quart  milk,  and  six  well-beaten  eggs ; butter  an  earthen 
dish,  and  put  the  chicken  and  batter  into  it  in  layers,  with  batter  at 
the  bottom  and  top,  and  bake  the  pudding  until  brown  in  a moder- 
ate oven.  When  pudding  is  nearly  done,  heat  the  broth  in  which 


710 


POULTRY. 


chicken  was  stewed,  season  to  taste,  draw  to  back  of  range  where  it 
will  not  boil,  and  stir  into  it  enough  beaten  eggs  to  thicken,  and 
serve  at  once  with  the  pudding.  Or  soak  a cup  bread-crumbs  in 
cup  boiling  milk  in  which  a pinch  of  soda  has  been  dissolved,  and 
beat  very  light ; let  cool  W’hile  mincing  cold  chicken  and  a slice  of 
boiled  ham  vt  ry  tine  ; mix  the  meat  wnth  the  bread-crumbs,  season 
with  pepper  and  salt  and  tablespoon  butter,  add  two  well -beaten 
eggs,  beat  all  up  well,  turn  into  well- buttered  baking  dish  and  bake 
in  brisk  oven.  When  it  puffs  up  a light,  delicate  browni  send  at 
once  to  table  in  dish  in  which  it  is  baked.  If  flavor  is  liked,  boil 
half  an  onion  in  the  milk,  skimming  out  before  pouring  over  bread- 
crumbs. Always  add  a pinch  of  sugar  to  either  of  above  puddings. 

Chicken  Qneneiles.—^li'K.  a tablespoon  chopped  salt  pork  with 
the  chopped  and  pounded  meat  from  one  chicken,  which  may  first 
be  cooked  or  not,  but  must  be  skinned  ; rub  both  through  a coarse 
sieve.  Cook  a cup  bread-crumbs  wuth  cup  milk  until  smooth,  stir- 
ring constantly,  and  add  the  sifted  meat  with  half  cup  cream  or 
white  stock,  seasoning  of  salt  and  white  pepper  and  a little  nutmeg 
or  mace,  and  pinch  of  sugar  with  beaten  yolks  of  three  eggs,  adding 
whipped  whites  last.  Mix  ail  thoroughly  together  and  shape  the 
quenelles  wuth  two  tablespoons,  first  dipping  one  in  hot  water,  fill- 
ing wuth  the  mixture,  then  turning  it  into  the  other  spoon,  which 
has  also  been  dipped  in  hot  water.  Put  the  quenelles  as  fast  as 
made  into  a buttered  saucepan  and  v/hen  all  are  done  pour  over 
them  enough  boiling  stock  to  cover,  and  simmer  gently  twenty 
minutes.  Take  up,  drain,  and  serve  on  rounds  of  toasted  or  fried 
bread  or  mashed  potatoes,  arranged  as  a border,  with  Mushroom  or 
Bechamel  Sauce  in  center  and  a spoonful  on  each.  Or  after  the 
quenelles  are  cooked  let  them  get  cold,  single-bread  them,  fry  as 
croquettes,  and  serve  wuth  fried  parsley  or  any  sauce  liked. 

Chicken  Turn-overs. — Roll  out  Puff  Paste,  and  cut  with  around 
tin  cutter  ; chop  some  cooked  chicken  with  half  as  much  chopped 
ham ; moisten  with  a little  cream  and  add  grated  rind  of  a lemon 
and  pinch  cayenne ; lay  a spoonful  of  mixture  on  half  of  every  cir- 
cle, turn  the  other  half  over  it,  press  edges  closely  together,  and 
drop  into  hot  lard,  as  in  fritters.  Serve,  piled  on  a small  platter. 
Nutmeg  may  be  substituted  for  the  lemon  peel,  and  make  Turkey 
and  Veal  Turn-overs  in  same  way. 

Chicken  Vanity, — Stir  a pint  cooked  and  finely  chopped 
chicken  and  teaspoon  each  chopped  parsley  and  lemon  juice  w'ith 
seasoning  of  white  pepper  and  salt  into  a pint  boiling  W^hite  Sauce. 
Cook  two  minutes,  add  yolks  of  four  eggs,  well  beaten,  and  set  away 
to  cool ; when  cold,  add  the  w^hites,  beaten  to  a stiff  froth.  Turn 
into  buttered  dish,  bake  half  an  hour,  and  serve  the  moment  it  is 
done  with  Mushroom  or  White  Sauce.  The  meat  of  any  fowl  or 
veal,  may  be  used. 


POULTRY. 


711 


CMclten  With  Asparagus. — Cut  two  chickens  in  seven  pieces 
each,  leaving  the  breast  and  breast-bone  entire.  Cook  all  but  latter 
in  four  quarts  boiling  water ; when  commencing  to  be  tender  put  in 
the  breast  and  when  done,  take  out  and  let  cool.  The  meat,  except 
the  breasts,  can  be  used  for  Chicken  Salad  or  any  dish  wished. 
Take  the  breasts  when  cold,  or  when  ready  to  use,  cut  carefully 
from  the  bone  and  trim  neatly,  cutting  in  two  or  more  pieces  ; make 
hot  in  a little  chicken  broth,  kept  from  stewing  the  cliickens,  place 
on  platter  and  pour  over  a Magical  Sauce  made  as  follows  : Add 
to  the  chicken  liquor,  a few  slices  of  carrots  and  parsnips,  and  a 
stalk  of  celery  and  a very  little  onion ; when  well-flavored  with  the 
vegetables,  strain  through  the  crash  towel  kept  for  straining  soups, 
etc.,  and  place  the  broth  in  a saucepan,  add  two  tablespoons  each 
flour  and  butter,  stirred  together  over  the  fire,  but  not  browned  ; let 
this  cook  slowly  till  reduced  to  a quart,  then  add  liquor  from  a can 
of  mushrooms,  and  again  reduce  to  less  than  a quart ; beat  in  a 
tablespoon  butter,  a squeeze  of  lemon  juice,  salt,  pinch  of  sugar  and 
cayenne,  and  cup  of  boiled  cream,  a little  at  a time,  just  before  serv- 
ing, making  it  of  the  consistency  required,  and  then  pass  it  through 
a fine  strainer.  After  pouring  it  over  the  breasts  of  .chicken,  dot  it 
here  and  there  with  the  asparagus  heads  cooked  in  a little  water  till 
tender  and  then  fried  a moment  or  two  in  a little  butter.  The  great 
beauty  of  the  dish,  with  sauce  looking  as  glossy  as  white  satin,  just 
thin  enough  to  settle  down  smooth,  yet  too  thick  to  run  off  the 
meat,  and  spotted  all  over  the  surface  with  the  green  heads  and 
bordered  with  the  same,  well  repays  one  for  the  trouble,  and  it  is  as 
delicious  as  it  is  elegant. 

Chicken  Livers  With  Bacon. — Cut  livers  in  rounds  an  inch 
and  a half  in  diameter,  and  have  thin  slices  of  bacon  cut  half  the 
size.  Nearly  fill  a small  wire  skerrer  with  these,  alternating.  Place 
in  frying  basket  and  plunge  into  smoking-hot  fat  for  a 
minute  or  two.  Serve  on  the  skewers,  or  on  toast,  with 
thin  slices  of  lemon  for  a garnish.  Or,  skewers  can  be  rested  on 
sides  of  a narrow  baking  pan  and  placed  in  a hot  oven  for  five 
minutes.  Serve  as  before.  The  livers  of  all  other  kinds  of  poultry 
can  be  cooked  same. 

Cantons  de  Bouen. — Cut  off  bone  of  leg  about  an  inch  from 
joint,  giving  a large  sweep  of  skin.  Take  bone  out  of  leg  without 
breaking  the  skin  ; make  a dressing  of  one  half  cup  bread,  soaked, 
squeezed  and  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper  and  any  herb  except  sage. 
Stuff  leg  with  this,  sew  up  and  trim  in  shape,  as  near  like  little 
ducks  as  possible.  Place  in  pan  upon.a  bed  of  vegetables,  (slices  of 
turnips,  carrots,  onions,  bay  leaf,  and  two  or  three  slices  salt  pork),  or 
baste  with  a little  butter,  and  bake  one  half  hour. 

Chili  Colorad. — Cut  up  two  chickens  and  stew ; when  pretty 
w^ell  done,  add  a little  green  parsley  and  a few  onions.  Take  half 


712 


POULTRY. 


pound  large  pepper  pods,  remove  seeds,  and  pour  on  boiling  water ; 
steam  ten  or  fifteen  minutes ; pour  off  water,  and  rub  them  in  a 
sieve  until  all  the  juice  is  out;  add  the  juice  to  the  chicken;  cook 
half  an  hour,  and  add  a little  butter,  flour  and  salt.  Garnish  with  a 
border  of  rice  around  the  dish.  This  may  also  be  made  of  beef, 
pork  or  mutton ; it  is  to  be  eaten  in  cold  weather,  and  is  a favorite 
with  all  people  on  the  Pacific  coast. 


Grilled  Fowl. — Cut  the  legs  and  second  joints  from  two  cold 
roast  or  boiled  fowls ; score  them  closely,  season  with  pepper  and 
salt,  and  keep  to  broil.  Mince  the  rest  of  the  meat  fine.  Make  a 
White  Sauce  (see  Sauces),  seasoned  with  pepper,  salt  and  nutmeg; 
add  the  minced  fowl,  and  heat ; broil  the  legs  and  thighs,  dish  the 
mince  on  hot  platter,  lay  them  on  it,  and  serve  hot.  Before  broil- 
ing the  legs  some  ‘‘devil”  them  by  first  scoring  deeply,  cutting  par- 
allel strips  right  down  to  the  bone  and  insert  in  these  a mixture  of 
French  mustard  and  cayenne  pepper  with  a bjunt  knife,  covering 
the  leg  all  over  well  with  the  mixture.  A teaspoon  each  vinegar, 
Harvey  or  W orcestershire  sauce  and  mustard,  and  tablespoon  salad 
oil  or  melted  butter,  mixed  till  like  cream,  is  also  nice  for  preparing 
a Deviled  Fowl  as  above.  The  grill  may  be  served  with  Mephisto- 
phelian  Sauce,  especially  designed  for  deviled  meats.  Chop  six 
shallots  or  small  onions,  wash,  and  press  in  corner  of  a clean  cloth, 
put  in  saucepan  with  two  tablespoons  chilli  vinegar  or  pepper  sauce,  a 
chopped  clove  of  garlic,  two  bay  leaves,  an  ounce  of  glaze  and  a 
pinch  cayenne ; boil  all  together  ten  minutes ; then  add  five  table- 
spoons Tomato  Sauce,  a pinch  of  sugar,  and  nine  of  broth,  made 
from  the  turkey  bones  or  water  thickened  with  roux,  and  some  add 
a little  anchovy  butter.  Deviled  Meat 
of  any  kind  made  and  served  same. 

Or  when  the  mince  is  not  made,  serve 
•in  hot  dish  with  a tablespoon  melted 
butter,  in  bottom,  thickly  sprinkled 
with  chopped  parsley.  Or  for  Braised 
Leg  of  Fowl  with  Tongue,  braise  the 
legs  cut  as  above,  as  directed  in  Brais- 
ed Meat,  and  boil  a tongue  according 
to  recipe  given  in  Meats.  Have  pre- 
pared a mold  of  boiled  rice;  place  on  Braised  Leg  of  FowI  mth  Tongue. 

platter,  surround  with  the  braised  legs,  then  garnish  all  with  slices 
of  cold  tongue.  Heap  on  top  of  rice.  Aspic  Jelly  cut  in  dice,  made 
from  the  bones  of  fowl  and  place  slices  of  pickled  beet  with  it. 

Roast  DucJc. — Ducks  are  dressed  and  stuffed  same  as  turkeys. 
Young  ducks  should  roast  from  twenty-five  to  thirty  minutes ; full- 
grown  for  an  hour  or  more  with  frequent  basting.  Some  prefer 
them  underdone,  served  very  hot,  but  thorough  cooking  will  prove 
more  generally  palatable.  Serve  with  currant  jelly,  apple  sauce,  and 


POULTRY. 


713 


green  pease.  If  old,  parboil  before  roasting.  Either  the  Onion  or 
Rice  F orce-meat  given  in  Force-meats  is  very  nice  for  stuffing  roast 
ducks,  though  any  preferred  may  be  used.  Some  core  small  sour 
apples  without  peeling  and  bake  them  in  the  pan  with  the  duck, 
basting  both  every  five  minutes  after  the  first  half  hour  until  done. 
Then  serve  apples  round  the  duck  as  a garnish. 

Stewed  Duck. — Cut  the  duck  in  small  joints  ; peel  and  chop  a 
small  onion,  and  fry  with  a tablespoon  butter  until  it  begins  to 
brown  ; then  put  in  duck  and  brown  that ; then  add  a heaping  table- 
spoon flour,  and  stir  all  until  the  flour  is  brown ; cover  with  boil- 
ing water,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  stew  gently  until  tender  ; 
add  tablespoon  chopped  parsley  and  serve  hot.  Or  With  Cabbage.^ 
slice  and  put  in  saucepan  with  tablespoon  each  butter  and  vinegar, 
and  dozen  each  whole  cloves  and  pepper-corns  and  teaspoon  salt, cover 
and  place  where  it  will  cook  slowly.  Cut  cold  roast  duck  in  two-inch 
pieces  and  brown  them  in  tablespoon  butter,  seasoning  highly  with 
pepper  and  salt ; then  put  in  saucepan  on  top  of  cabbage  and  cook 
until  the  latter  is  tender ; turn  it  out  on  hot  dish  and  serve  the  pieces 
of  duck  neatly  arranged  on  the  cabbage.  Or  it  is  nice  With  Car- 
rots. Boil  the  carrots  till  soft,  let  drain,  and  put  in  stewpan  with 
enough  butter  to  fry  nicel}^  While  frying  add  a gill  good  cleat 
gravy  (soup  will  do),  lump  of  sugar,  pinch  or  two  of  salt,  and  rub 
them  through  a sieve;  then  reheat,  stirring  well.  Warm  up  the 
pieces  of  cold  duck  meanwhile  in  gravy,  and  lay  them  on  the  puree  of 
carrots.  Or,  if  liked  With  Pease^  place  the  remains  of  cold  roast 
duck  in  stewpan  with  pint  gravy  and  a little  sage,  cover  closely,  ani 
let  simmer  half  an  hour ; add  a pint  of  boiled  green  pease,  stew  a 
few  minutes,  remove  to  dish,  and  pour  gravy  and  pease  over  it 

Roast  Goose. — The  goose  should  not  be  more  than  eight  months 
old,  and  the  fatter  the  more  tender  and  juicy  the  meat.  A ‘‘green’' 
goose  (four  months  old)  is  the  choicest.  Kill  at  least  twenty-four 
hours  before  cooking ; cut  the  neck  close  to  the  back,  beat  the  breast- 
bone flat  with  a rolling-pin,  tie  the  wings  and  legs  securely,  season 
inside  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  stuff  or  not  as  liked,  with  the  fol- 
lowing mixture : Three  pints  bread-crumbs,  six  ounces  butter  or 
part  butter  and  part  salt  'pork,  two  chopped  onions,  one  teaspoon 
each  sage,  black  pepper  and  salt.  Do  not  stuff  very  full,  and  stitch 
openings  firmly  together  to  keep  flavor  in  and  fat  out.  If  th© 
goose  is  not  fat,  lard  it  with  salt  pork,  or  tie  a slice  on  the  breast. 
Place  in  baking  pan  with  little  water,  and  baste  frequently  with  salt 
and  w'ater  (some  add  onion  and  little  vinegar,)  turning  often  so 
that  the  sides  and  back  may  all  be  nicely  browned.  When  nearly 
done  baste  with  butter  and  dredge  with  flour.  Bake  two  hours,  or 
more  if  old ; some  parboil  before  roasting ; when  done  take  from  pan, 
pour  off  fat,  and  make  a Giblet  Gravy.  Apple,  Goosberry  or  Onion 
Sauce  and  currant  jelly  are  proper  accompaniments  to  roast  goose. 


714 


POULTRY. 


Boiled  Turkey. — Prepare  turkey  as  directed ; fill  with  a dress- 
ing of  bread  and  butter,  moistened  with  milk  and  seasoned  with 
sage,  salt  and  pepper,  and  mixed  with  a pint  of  raw  oysters ; sew  up 
and  truss  as  in  preface,  place  in  boiling  water  with  the  breast  down- 
w^ard,  skim  often  and  boil  as  directed  in  preface,  about  three  hours, 
if  a seven  or  eight  pound  turkey,  seasoning  with  salt  when  half 
done.  Do  not  cook  till  skin  breaks ; serve  with  Oyster  Sauce.  Or 
With  Celery.,  chop  ver}^  fine  six  stalks  nicely-blanched  celery  and 
add  to  the  bread  dressing  as  given  in  Steamed  Turkey  or  to  the 
above.  Or  cut  the  celery  in  third  of  an  inch  pieces,  season  with  salt 
and  a pinch  of  cayenne  and  fill  turkey  with  it ; then  sew  and  truss 
as  above.  Serve  with  Celery  Sauce,  or  stir  together  in  saucepan  two 
tablespoons  each  flour  and  butter,  when  smooth  add  a quart  of  the 
turkey  broth,  season  and  add  the  chopped  giblets,  having  cooked 
them  with  the  turkey,  as  more  water  is  required  with  it  than  with 
chicken.  Celery  may  be  added  to  this  sauce,  letting  cook  till  ten- 
der, or  oysters,  when  simply  boil  up  once  and  serve.  Or  With 
Macaroni,  boil  latter  ten  or  fifteen  minutes  in  water  seasoned  with 
salt  and  pepper,  and  use  for  stuffing.  Serve  with  plain  boiled  maca- 
roni, and  an  Egg  or  Bechamel  Sauce.  Or  stuff*  with  any  force-meat 
liked,  see  Force-meats.  Boiled.  Chicken  may  be  prepared  as  any  of 
the  above ; or  truss  and  boil  without  stuffing  and  when  done  cut  up 
and  lay  in  a hot  dish,  cover  with  macaroni  cooked  as  above,  with 
the  addition  of  an  onion,  and  over  that  grate  a quarter  pound 
Parmesan,  or  any  dry  cheese ; then  brown  in  oven  or  with  sala- 
mander. Bice  may  be  used  instead  of  Macaroni.  Or  With  Pork, 
boil  a piece  of  lean  salt  pork  three  hours,  then  put  in  fowl  tied  in  a 
white  cotton  cloth,  wet  in  cold  water  and  dredged  thickly  with 
flour.  Some  always  tie  in  the  floured  cloth  when  boiling  a stuffed 
turkey  or  chicken.  And  for  a IWhite-hoiled  Fowl,  first  cover  breast 
with  slices  of  lemon,  and  put  over  these  a sheet  of  buttered  paper, 
then  tie  in  the  floured  cloth ; place  in  boiling  water  and  simmer 
gently  as  directed,  remembering  that  simmering,  instead  of  boiling, 
a chicken  or  turkey,  prepared  in  any  of  above  ways,  makes  them 
plumper  and  wdiiter.  Alwa3^s  truss  rery  hrmly,  as  the\"  are  more 
apt  to  loose  their  shape  than  in  roasting.  In  serving  some  prefer  to 
pour  some  of  the  sauce  over  the  fowl,  putting  the  rest  in  sauce- 
boat. Besides  the  sauces  mentioned  above.  Parsley,  Lemon  and 
Mushroom  may  be  used,  and  Bice  Sauce  is  very  nice ; to  make, 
simmer  quarter  pound  rice  in  pint  milk.  Season  with  onion  as  for 
Bread  Sauce.  When  tender,  strain  and  boil  till  thick,  and  a Bice 
Dressing  may  also  be  used  for  filling,  made  as  follows  ; boil  three 
quarters  of  a gill  of  rice  in  salted  water  till  tender,  but  grains  not 
broken  ; mix  with  a cup  cold  veal  or  an_v  cold  meat,  or  slice  or  two 
of  salt  pork  and  three  or  four  onions,  all  chopped  fine  ; season  with 
salt  and  pepper  and  a pinch  of  cayenne  and  sugar ; fry  slightly  in 


POULTRY. 


715 


frying-pan  with  butter  siz-e  of  an  egg.  This  is  a nice  stuffing  for 
tame  Roast  Rucks. 

Boned  Turkey. — Complete  directions  for  Boning  will  be  found 
in  Cutting  and  Curing  Meats,  which  see;  only  the  different  methods 
of  cooking  the  fowl  after  it  is  boned  are  given  here.  Always  weigh 
the  fowl  before  boning,  and  allow  two-thirds  weight  for  force-meat, 
which  is  usually  made  of  fresh  veal  and  chicken,  chopped  fine,  or 
veal  and  pork,  or  sausage  meat.  For  each  pound  force-meat  take  a 
level  teaspoon  each  powdered  cloves,  powdered  allspice  and  salt, 
saltspoon  each  pepper  and  mace,  one  raw  egg  and  juice  of  a lemon ; 
mix  thoroughly.  Place  the  fowl,  skin  down  on  a board,  put  layer 
of  stuffing  on  it  about  half  an  inch  thick,  on  that  “put  two  strips  salt 
pork,  about  three  inches  long  and  half  inch  wide,  and  the  liver  of 
fowl ; then  another  layer  of  stuffing,  then  the  little  white  pieces  cut 
off  by  the  breast-bone,  when  honing  the  turkey,  and  about  a half  can 
of  mushrooms.  Now  draw  the  fowl  together,  sew 
vent  and  neck  first  then  sew  up  the  back.  If 
wished,  two  or  three  truffles'  may  be  added.  After 
fowl  is  sewed  up,  roll  it  in  a clean  cloth,  large  Turkey  Gaianthe. 
enough  to  have  about  one-quarter  yard  to  spare  at  each  end  ; tie  up 
very  tightly  so  as  to  keep  in  shape,  with  three  or  four  strips  of 
broad  tape,  or  as  illustrated.  Weigh  after  it  is  tied,  and  put 
carcass  or  bones,  after  drawing  and  cleaning  into  as  many 
quarts  cold  water  as  pounds  the  fowl  weighs,  and  when  at  boil- 
ing point,  skim  as  for  clear  soup.  When  no  more  scum  rises 
add  a carrot,  an  onion  stuck  with  a dozen  cloves;  a turnip,  a 
bunch  of  herbs,  parsley,  bay  leaf,  blade  of  mace,  and  any  herb 
except  sage,  and  a few  pepper-corns  tied  well  together.  Put  in 
turkey  and  boil  a half  hour  to  the  pound,  adding  more  hot  water, 
as  needed.  When  done,  take  out,  letting  the  broth  drain  from 
it  into  the  pot ; strain  the  stock  through  a folded  towel  laid  in  a col- 
ander set  in  earthen  bowl.  Some  let  the  turkey  remain  in  broth  till 
it  is  cold.  Unroll  from  cloth,  wash  cloth  in  hot  wmter,  then  in  cold, 
using  no  soap,  and  wrap  chicken  up  again,  tying  as  at  first,  and  put 
on  plotter ; turn  another  platter  over  it,  place  a heavy  weight  on  this 
and  press  till  cold,  or  overnight  if  possible.  Make  an  Aspic  Jelly 
to  Serve  with  the  turkey  by  first  removing  fat  from  the  broth  in 
which  it  was  boiled,  and  to  each  quart  broth  or  stock  take  white  and 
shell  of  one  egg  and  tablespoon  cold  water;  put  in  saucepan  and 
add  the  broth  or  stock  with  two  packages  or  four  ounces  gelatine 
(this  will  harden  three  pints -of  stock).  Stir  until  gelatine  is  dis- 
solved and  the  stock  looks  clear,  under  the  egg  which  should  harden 
and  float  on  top.  Then  strain  through  a double  towel  wrung  out  of 
hot  water  and  placed  over  a bowl.  After  being  strained  half  of  the 
jelly  maybe  colored  with  Caramel  Coloring  and  different  shades 
given  according  to  quantity  of  coloring  used ; turn  into  different 
molds  to  cool  and  after  the  turkej’’  has  been  pressed  overnight  un- 


71G 


POULTRY. 


roll,  slice  and  garnish,  with  the  diherent  shades  of  jelly  cut  in  fancy 
shapes.  Or  place  the  whole  Turkey  Galantine^  as  it  is  sometimes 
called,  on  a platter  and  pour  the  jelly  when  partially  cooled  over  it ; 
when  cold  serve  at  table  garnished  with  parsley  and  slices  of  lemon. 

Another  method  of  stuffing  is  to  have  ready  two  pounds  sausage 
meat  well  seasoned,  two  pounds  boiled  ham,  a beef  tongue,  half 
dozen  sheep’s  tongues,  boiled ; pound  and  a half  salted  pork,  hair 
pound  sliced  truffles,  and  the  meat  of  two  boiled  chickens  free  from 
bones  and  skin.  Cut  the  meat  in  strips  four  inches  long  and  one 
broad  and  quarter  of  an  inch  thick.  Spread  the  boned  fowl  on 
table,  salt  and  pepper  well,  then  fill  with  the  cut  up  meats,  etc., 
alternating  so  as  to  form  layers  of  different  colors.  When  filled 
give  the  whole  a good  round  shape,  bring  the  two  sides  together, 
sew  up,  wrap  and  tie  in  a cloth  as  above,  and  put  in  a kettle 
large  enough  to  allow  water  to  cover  well ; add  bones  and  giblets, 
tAvo  calf’s  feet,  a small  piece  of  lean  beef,  parsley,  little  thyme,  two 
cloves  of  garlic,  pepper,  one  carrot,  half  turnip  and  salt.  Boil  gently 
three  hours,  skimming  well.  Take  from  kettle,  remove  cloth,  wash 
and  finish  as  above.  Or  after  filling  with  the  dressing  truss  the 
same  as  for  roasting,  retaining  its  original  form  as  far  as  possible; 
and  to  so  do,  it  is  best  to  leave  the  leg  and  wing  bones  in  when  bon-’ 
ing,  for  directions  for  Avhich  see  Cutting  and  Curing  Meats.  Then 
tie  the  foAvl  firmly  in  a strong  jnece  of  ccdton  cloth,  as  in  Boiled 
Turkey,  drawing  it  very  tight  at  the  legs,  as  this  is  the  broadest 
part  and  the  shape  will  not  be  good  unless  this  precaution  is  taken. 
Steam  three  hours,  remove  cloth,  place  on  buttered  tin  in  baking- 
pan,  baste  Avell  with  butter,  pepper  and  salt  and  bake  an  hour, 
frothing  as  directed ; when  cold  remove  skeAvers  and  serve, 
garnished  with  Aspic  Jelly,  cooked  beets  in  fancy  shapes  and 
parsley.  Hard-boiled  yolks  of  eggs,  oysters,  blanched  sweet  almonds, 
chestnuts,  pistachio-nuts,  veal,  garlic,  bay  leaves,  lemon  juice  and 
rind,  chopped  pickles,  anchoAues,  etc.,  may  be  used  in  the  filling. 
When  well  executed  a galantine  is  a very  handsome  dish  and  is  al- 
ways served  cold. 

Larded  Turkey. — For  cooking  in  any  AVay  a hen  turkey  a A^ear 
old  is  best,  Aveighing  eight  or  ten  pounds  Avhen  dressed.  Clean, 
stuff,  truss  and  lard  as  directed  in  preface ; place  in  oven  not  quite 
as  hot  as  for  roasting  meats  (if  the  fire  is  very  hot,  lay  a piece  of 
broAAUi  paper,  AA-ell  greased,  over  the  fowl,  to  prevent  scorching)  : 
put  a tablespoon  of  butter  in  bits  on  the  breast ; it  Avili  melt  and  rui:. 
into  the  dripping-pan,  and  is  used  to  baste  the  foAvl  as  roasting  pro- 
gresses ; baste  every  ten  minutes,  Avatching  the  turkey  as  it  begins 
to  broAAUi,  A^ery  carefully,  and  turning  it  occasionally  to  expose  all 
parts  alike  to  the  heat;  it  should  be  moist  and  tender,  not  in  the 
least  scorched,  blistered  or  shriveled,  till  it  is  a golden  broAvn  all 
over.  For  the  first  tAvo-thirds  of  time  required  for  cooking  (the  rule 
is  twenty  minutes  to  the  pound  and  twenty  minutes  longer)  the 


POULTRY. 


717 


basting  should  keep  the  surface  moistened  so  that  it  will  not  crisp 
at  all;  meantime  the  oven  should  be  kept  closed  as  much  as  pos- 
sible. A long  gauntlet  glove  is  a good  thing  to  protect  the  hand 
and  arm  when  basting.  In  turning  pan,  do  it  as  quickly  as  possible ; 
season  with  two  teaspoons  salt  when  half  done.  In  the  last  third 
of  the  time  allowed  for  cooking,  dredge  with  hour  by  withdi-av/ing 
the  pan  partly  from  the  oven  (resting  the  end  on  the  grating  which 
falls  down,  or  on  a block  of  wood  or  a plain  stool  of  the  proper 
height  kept  for  the  purpose),  and  cover  the  breast,  upper  portion 
and  sides  thoroughly,  using  a fine  sifter,  return  pan  to  oven,  and  let 
remain  until  the  fiour  is  well  browned,  then  baste  freely  with  drip- 
pings from  pan,  and  fiour  again,  repeating  flouring  and  browning, 
allowing  crust  to  grow  crisper  each  time ; there  will  probably  be 
time  to  repeat  the  process  three  or  four  times  before  finishing.  Take 
care  not  to  wash  off  flour  by  basting,  always  leaving  in  oven  until 
all  flour  of  last  dredging  is  thoroughly  browned.  If  it  is  necessary 
to  turn  the  turkey  in  the  pan,  use  a towel,  and  never  stick  it  with  a 
fork^  as  it  allows  the  juices  to  escape.  In  roasting  a large  turke}^,  a 
liberal  allowRance  of  butter  for  cooking,  including  gravy  for  serving 
in  two  successive  days,  is  one  tea-cup,  but  less  may  be  used,  accord- 
ing to  taste  or  necessity  for  economy.  Baste  with  melted  butter  the 
last  time,  then  dredge  with  flour  and  serve  when  browned ; the  en- 
tire surface  will  then  be  a rich,  frothy,  brown  crust,  which  break 
off  in  shells  in  carving,  and  makes  the  most  savory  of  morsels. 
Keep  hot  while  making  the  Giblet  Gravy.  Always  be  very  careful 
in  removing  the  skewers  and  strings  not  to  break  the  crust. 

Roast  Turkey. — Prepare  as  above  omitting  the  larding,  placing 
bits  of  butter  or  pieces  of  the  fat  from  the  turkey  or  thin  slices  of 
fat  pork  over  the  breast  of  turkey,  if  wished,  and  baste  and  finish  as 
above.  Some  have  the  rule  that  when  little  jets  of  steam  burst  out 
from  the  breast  and  thick  parts  the  turkey  is  done.  Serve  with 

Cranberry  Sauce,  and  in  making,  if  a li.ttle 
clear  jelly  is  wanted  pour  off  a cup  of  the 
clear  syrup  before  stirring  up  the  berries, 
then  mash  with  a spoon.  Sometimes, 
from  motives  of  economy,  the  stewed  cran- 
berries are  mixed  with  an  equal  amount  of 
gravy  from  the  turkey  pan,  making  a Fruit  Gravy ^ which  is  much 
liked,  prepared  in  same  way  when  cooking  game.  For  English 
Roast  Turkey^  kill  and  hang  several  days  before  cooking,  then  stuff 
with  bread  dressing,  truss,  and  place  to  roast  on  a rack  within  a 
dripping-pan ; spread  with  bits  of  butter,  turn  and  baste  frequently 
with  butter,  salt  and  water.  Some  use  milk  instead  of  water  to 
make  it  brown  nicely.  A few  minutes  before  it  is  done  glaze  with 
the  white  of  an  egg,  or  the  Pastry  Glaze ; dish  the  turkey  and  make 
a Giblet  Gravy.  Garnish  with  fried  oysters,  and  serve  with  Celery 
Sauce  and  stewed  gooseberries.  Or  With  Chestnuts.^  prepare  turkey 


Boast  Turkey. 


718 


POULTRY. 


and  add  to  an  ordinary  bread  dressing,  a dozen  or  two  foreign  chest- 
nuts, first  boiled  till  tender,  about  half  an  hour,  in  salted  water  or 
stock,  then  peeled,  and  inside  skin  scraped  off.  Some  first  put  in 
oven  till  skins  burst.  Or  mix  cup  bread-crumbs  with  three  cups 
pork  sausage,  seasoning  as  needed,  then  add  thirty  or  forty  chest- 
nuts prepared  as  above.  Mix  well  and  dll  the  turkey.  Or  fill  the 
breast  with  a Veal  Force-meat  and  the  body  with  prepared  chest- 
Jiuts  without  bread,  etc.  Truss  and  roast  in  any  of  above  ways  and 
serve  with  any  sauce  wished  ; or  with  Chestnut  Sauce^  stew  dozen 
roasted  chestnuts,  peeled,  in  a pint  gravy,  season  with  pepper  and  salt, 
and  thicken  with  a piece  of  butter  rolled  in  flour  ; boil  until  smooth. 
Fry  half  a dozen  sausages,  pour  the  sauce  into  the  dish,  place  the 
fowl  in  it,  and  the  sausages  around  the  fowl;  garnish  with  lemon 
cut  in  thin  slices.  Or  With  5 prepare  turkey  as  directed 
then  take  a loaf  of  stale  bread,  cut  off  crust  and  soften  by  placing  in 
a pan,  pouring  on  boiling  water,  draining  off  immediately  and  cov- 
ering closely ; crumble  the  bread  fine,  add  half  pint  melted  butter, 
or  more  if  to  be  very  rich,  and  a teaspoon  each  salt  and  pepper,  or 
enough  to  season  rather  highly ; drain  off  liquor  from  a quart  of 
oysters,  bring  to  a boil,  skim  and  pour  over  bread-crumbs,  adding 
the  soaked  crusts  and  one  or  Wo  eggs  ; mix  all  thoroughly  with  the 
hands,  and  if  rather  dry,  moisten  with  a little  sw^eet  milk ; lastly, 
add  the  oysters,  being  careful  not  to  break  them ; or  first  put  in  a 
spoonful  of  stuffing,  and  then  three  or  four  oysters,  and  so  on  until 
the  turkey  is  filled ; stuff  the  breast  first.  Truss  and  spread  the 
turkey  over  with  butter,  place  in  dripping-pan  in  well-heated  oven, 
add  half  a pint  hot  water,  and  roast  till  tender,  basting  often  with  a 
little  water,  butter,  salt  and  pepper,  kept  in  a tin  for  this  purpose 
and  placed  on  back  of  the  stove.  The  pastry  brush  or  a swab  made 
of  a stick  with  a cloth  tied  on  the  end,  is  better  than  a spoon  with 
which  to  baste.  Turn,  baste,  dredge  and  froth  as  above.  Some  con- 
sider it  nicer  to  steam  the  turkey,  first  rubbing  inside  with  salt  and 
pepper  and  tying  in  shape  ; when  it  begins  to  grow  tender,  take  out, 
loosen  the  legs,  and  rub  inside  again  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  stuff 
with  above  dressing  of  oysters.  When  done  thus,  the  openings  can 
not  be  sewed  up,  but  a floured  cloth  must  be  placed  over  them  and 
tied  securely  with  twine.  Roast  as  above.  When  turkey  is  dished 
if  there  is  much  fat  in  the  pan,  pour  off  most  of  it,  add  the  chopped 
giblets  with  the  water  in  which  they  were  cooked,  now  stew’ed  down 
to  about  one  pint ; place  one  or  twm  tablespoons  flour  (it  is  better  to 
have  half  of  it  browned)  in  a pint  bowl,  mix  smooth  -with  a little 
cream,  fill  up  bowl  wuth  cream  or  rich  milk  and  add  to  the  gravy  in 
the  pan  ; boil  several  minutes,  stirring  constantly,  and  pour  in  the 
gravy  tureen  ; serve  with  currant  or  apple  jelly.  A turkey  steamed 
in  this  way  does  not  look  so  'well  on  the  table,  but  is  very  tender 
and  palatable.  It  is  an  excellent  wuiy  to  cook  a large  turkey. 


POULTRY. 


719 


Steamed  Turkey. — After  dressing,  always  plumping  by  plung* 
ing  in  boiling  water,  etc.,  as  directed,  fill  with  a stuffing  as  fol- 
lows, first  rubbing  inside  with  salt  and  pepper ; cut  pieces  of  dry 
bread  and  crust,  not  too  brown,  off  a loaf  fully  three  or  four  days 
old,  but  not  moldy ; place  crust  and  pieces  in  a pan  and  pour  on  a 
very  little  boiling  water,  cover  tightly  with  a cloth,  let  stand  until, 
soft,  add  a tablespoon  or  two  of  butter,  one  or  two  eggs,  and  the 
bread  from  which  the  crust  was  cut,  so  as  not  to  have  it  too  moist. 
Mix  well  with  hands  and  season  to  taste ; teaspoon  or  two  of  sage  or 
mixed  preparation  of  herbs  gives  a nice  flavor.  Sew  up  and  truss 
as  directed  in  preface  and  steam  in  patent  steamer  until  beginning 
to  be  tender,  which  will  be  in  from  one  to  three  hours,  according  to 
size.  Then  place  turkey  in  dripping-pan  with  water  from  pan  in  which 
turkey  was  steamed.  A steamer  can  be  improvised  by  putting 
turkey  in  dripping-pan  without  any  water,  then  place  that  on  top  of 
two  or  three  pieces  of  wood  (hickory  or  maple  is  best)  laid  in  bot- 
tom of  wash-boiler,  with  just  enough  water  to  cover  wood  ; put  on 
lid,  which  should  fit  tightly  on  boiler,  and  as  water  boils  away  add 
more,  being  careful  not  to  put  any  in  pan.  When  cooked  as  above, 
take  out  dripping-pan  and  place  in  oven,  with  the  water  in  it  but 
not  that  in  boiler.  Place  upon  the  turkey,  pieces  of  turkey-fat  or 
butter,  season  with  salt  and  dredge  with  flour ; after  ten  minutes, 
baste  with  the  drippings  and  water  in  pan,  always  taking  from  the 
top,  it  being  richer,  then  dredge  with  flour  and  continue  thus  as  in 
Larded  Turkey  till  nicely  browned  and  frothed,  using  melted  butter 
for  last  basting  and  letting  the  last  dredging  become  thoroughly 
browned  before  serving.  Make  a Giblet  Gravy  as  directed,  remem- 
bering if  turkey  was  very  fat  that  the  flour  will  not  mingle  readily 
and  smoothly  until  some  of  the  fat  is  skimmed  off;  or  if  a quantity 
of  gravy  is  wished,  add  slowly  some  boiling  water  till  it  commences 
to  thicken  nicely.  Steaming  keeps  the  turkey  moist,  tender  and 
free  from  the  least  scorching,  blistering  or  shriveling : and  as  it  is 
only  in  the  oven  an  hour  and  sometimes 
less,  one  can  devote  plenty  of  time  to  the 
basting  and  dredging,  which  is  one  of  the 
most  important  points  in  roasting  turkey.  Having  it  on  a trivet  as- 
sists greatly  in  turning  it  to  baste  and  dredge.  Some,  in  making 
stuffing,  try  out  fat  of  turkey  at  a low  temperature,  and  use  instead 
of  butter;  others  use  fat  of  sweet-pickled  pork  chopped  fine  (not 
tried  out),  with  a small  quantity  of  butter,  or  none  at  all.  Serve 
with  Cranberry  Sauce.  Wild  Turkey  can  be  prepared  as  above  or 
may  be  cooked  like  any  of  the  ways  given  for  turkey.  Jellied 
Turkey  is  made  as  Jellied  Chicken,  and  a mixture  of  slices  of  cold 
ham,  tongue  and  turkey  in  the  jelly  makes  a delicious  dish. 

Scalloped  Turkey. — Moisten  bread-crumbs  with  a little  milk, 
butter  a pan  and  put  in  a layer  of  crumbs,  then  a layer  of  chopped 
(not  very  fine)  cold  turkey  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper,  then  a 


Trivet. 


720 


POULTRY. 


layer  of  crumbs,  and  some  add  a little  chopped  cold  potato,  and  so 
on  until  pan  is  full.  If  any  dressing  or  gravy  has  been  left  add  it. 
Make  a thickening  of  one  or  two  eggs,  half  cup  milk,  and  quarter 
cup  each  butter  and  bread-crumbs  ; season  and  spread  over  the  top  ; 
cover  with  a pan,  bake  half  an  hour  and  then  let  brown ; or  instead 
of  the  milk  to  moisten  make  a broth  from  the  bones,  skimming  them 
out,  then  thicken  a little  and  pour  it  over  before  spreading  over  the 
top  dressing.  Scalloped  Chicken  made  as  above. 

Stewed  Turkey. — Simmer  the  bones  and  gristle  of  the  turkey 
with  a bunch  of  sweet  herbs  and  an  onion  and  carrot  till  a well- 
flavored  broth  is  obtained ; skim  out  bones,  thicken  slightly  and 
add  any  cold  turkey  cut  in  inch  or  two  inch  pieces,  and  any  gravy,  or 
season  with  butter.  When  heated  add  cup  cold  water  or  milk,  then  a 
few  baking-powder  dumplings,  pinched  off  in  little  balls;  place 
where  it  will  cook  rapidly  and  serve  as  soon  as  dumplings  are  done. 
Or  omit  cold  water  and  dumplings,  stir  in  more  thickening  if  needed 
and  when  hot  pour  over  croutons  of  toasted  bread  placed  on  plat- 
ter. Or  for  Turkey  Pie;  cut  pieces  in  neat  slices  and  heat  as  above, 
then  skim  out  and  place  a layer  in  baking  dish,  then  a layer  of 
sliced  raw  potatoes,  or  they  may  be  parboiled  first,  then  turkey, 
etc.,  till  dish  is  almost  full ; pour  over  the  broth,  cover  with  a crust 
as  in  Chicken  Pie  and  bake  in  oven.  Some  do  not  first  heat  the 
turkey.  For  Turkey  Soup^  see  Soups. 

Turkey  Croquettes. — Mince  cold  turkey  as  fine  as  possible, 
season  with  pepper,  salt,  a little  nutmeg  and  a very  little  minced 
onion.  Put  a large  tablespoon  butter  and  two  of  flour  in  saucepan, 
when  mixed  add  gill  cream,  let  boil  and  stir  in  the  meat.  Pour  out 
and  when  cold  take  a spoonful  of  the  mixture,  form  in  balls  or  egg- 
shapes  and  single  or  double-bread  and  fry  as  fritters.  Some  take  a 
little  stock,  if  bones  have  been  used  for  soup  and  add  only  a table- 
spoon cream,  and  onion  may  be  omitted. 


PRESERVES. 


721 


IliESEliVES. 


Preserves,  to  be  perfect,  must  be  made  with  the  greatest  care. 
Economy  of  time  and  trouble  is  a waste  of  fruit  and  sugar.  The 
best  are  made  by  putting  only  a small  amount  of  neatly  pared  fruit 
at  a time  in  the  syrup,  after  the  latter  has  been  carefully  prepared 
and  clarified.  It  is  difficult  to  watch  a large  quantity  so  as  to  insure 
its  being  done  to  a turn.  Put  peaches,  pears,  quinces  and  apples  in- 
to cold  water  as  fast  as  peeled  to  prevent  their  turning  dark.  The 
old  rule  is  ‘^a  pound  of  sugar  to  a pound  of  fruit;”  but  since  the 
introduction  of  cans,  three-quarters  pound  sugar  to  a pound  fruit  is 
sufficient,  and  even  less  is  sometimes  used,  the  necessity  for  an  ex- 
cess of  sugar  having  passed  away,  as  preserves  may  be  less  sweet, 
with  no  risk  of  fermentation,  if  sealed.  In  making  either  preserves 
or  marmalades,  follow  the  directions  as  regards  kettle,  sugar  and 
canning,  or  putting  up  in  jars,  already  given  in  Canning  Fruits  and 
Jams  and  Jellies.  Quinces,  pears,  citrons,  water-melon  rinds,  and 
many  of  the  smaller  fruits,  such  as  cherries,  currants,  etc.,  harden 
when  put,  at  first,  into  a syrup  made  of  their  weight  of  sugar.  To 
prevent  this  they  should  be  cooked  till  tender  in  water,  or  in  a weak 
syrup  made  from  a portion  of  the  sugar,  adding  the  remainder  after- 
v/ard.  In  preserving  fruits,  such  as  apples,  peaches,  tomatoes, 
plums  and  strawberries,  and  other  fruits,  which  are  likely  to  become 
too  soft  in  cooking,  it  is  a good  plan  to  pour  the  hot  syrup  over  the 
fruit,  or  to  strew  over  it  a part  or  all  the  sugar,  and  allow  it  to  stand 
a few  hours ; by  either  method  the  juice  is  extracted,  and  the  fruit 
hardened.  Another  approved  method  of  making  fruit  firmer,  known 
as  Sun  Preserves^  is  to  skim  it  out  of  syrup  after  cooking  a few 


722 


PRESERVES. 


minutes,  and  place  in  the  hot  sun  two  or  three  hours,  place  in  jars 
and  pour  over  the  boiling  syrup ; or  boil  five  minutes,  then  place  in 
sun  one  hour,  letting  syrup  cook  slowly  on  back  of  stove,  put  in 
fruit  and  boil  twenty  minutes  and  place  in  sun  another  hour,  when 
boil  till  done  and  put  away  as  directed.  Long  protracted  boiling 
destroys  the  pleasant  natural  flavor  of  the  fruit,  and  darkens  it. 

Preserves  should  boil  gently  to  avoid  danger  of  burning,  and  in 
order  that  sugar  may  thoroughly  penetrate  fruit.  A good  syrup  is 
made  in  proportion  of  half  pint  water  to  pound  sugar.  Use  loaf 
or  granulated  sugar.  Put  sugar  and  water  over  the  fire  in  preserv- 
ing kettle,  and  just  before  it  boils  stir  in  white  of  an  egg  beaten 
lightly  with  two  tablespoons  water  as  it  begins  to  boil,  remove 
scum  with  great  care ; boil  until  no  more  scum  arises,  and  then  add 
fruit.  Or  the  white  of  egg  may  be  mixed  thoroughly  with  the  dry 
sugar  in  the  kettle,  and  the  boiling  water  poured  over,  when  all  im- 
purities will  immediately  arise  to  the  surface  with  the  egg ; then 
boil  slowly,  or  rather  simmer,  until  the  preserves  are  clear.  Take 
out  each  piece  with  a skimmer  and  lay  on  a flat  dish  to  cool,  or  put 
in  jars  at  once.  Cook  the  syrup,  skimming  off  the  scum  which 
rises,  until  it  “ropes”  from  the  spoon.  If  preserves  are  already  in 
jar  pour  syrup  over  them  and  seal ; if  on  dishes,  return  them  to 
syrup  and  boil  up  once  before  putting  up.  This  is  merely  a matter 
of  choice,  and  we  have  never  found  any  difference  in  the  results  oi 
the  two  methods.  Preserves  may  be  made  from  canned  fruit  (and 
some  prefer  to  do  this  rather  than  make  in  the  hot  season),  using 
less  sugar  than  the  rule.  When  preserving  canned  peaches  or  ap- 
ples, it  is  an  improvement  to  add  a few  sliced  oranges  or  lemons. . 
When  berries  or  small  fruits  are  done,  take  up  with  a little  strainer, 
and  place  in  cans  ; if  a cup  is  used,  it  is  impossible  to  separate  them 
from  syrup.  Pie-plant  can  be  preserved  with  any  kind  of  fruit,  half 
and  half,  and  in  a short  time  will  taste  like  the  fruit  with  which  it  is 
mixed.  When  preserves  are  candied,  set  jar  in  kettle  of  cold  water^ 
'and  let  boil  for  an  hour,  or  put  them  in  a crock  kept  for  that  pur- 
pose, set  in  oven  and  boil  a few  minutes,  watching  carefully  to  pre- 
vent burning.  When  specks  of  mold  appear,  take  them  off  carefully, 
and  scald  preserves  as  above  directed.  Another  method  of  preserv- 
ing is  to  cut  the  fruit,  if  large,  in  slices  about  one-fifth  of  an  inch 
thick,  strew  powdered  loaf  sugar  an  eighth  of  an  inch  thick  on  the 
bottom  of  a jar,  and  put  the  slices  on  it.  Put  more  sugar  on  this. 


PRESERVES. 


723 


and  then  another  layer  of  the  slices,  and  so  on  until  the  jar  is  full. 
Place  the  jar  up  to  the  neck  in  boiling  water,  and  keep  it  there  till 
sugar  is  completely  dissolved,  which  may  take  half  an  hour,  remov- 
ing the  scum  as  it  rises.  Place  a brandied  paper  over  top  of  fruit, 
then  cover  jar  closely  and  keep  in  a cool  place.  Marmalades,  or 
different  butters,  will  be  smoother  and  better  flavored,  and  will  re- 
quire less  boiling,  if  fruit  (peaches,  quinces,  oranges  and  apples 
make  best)  is  well  cooked  and  mashed  before  adding  either  sugar  or 
cider.  It  is  important  to  stir  constantly  with  an  apple-butter  stirrer. 
Always  tie  an  oil-cloth  cover  over  the  cloth  cover  on  preserves,  etc. 


Apple  Preserves. — Take  three-quarters  of  a pound  sugar  to 
each  pound  apples  ; make  syrup  of  sugar  and  little  water  in  which 
root  ginger  (bruised  and  tied  in  a bag)  has  been  boiled  until 
strength  is  well  extracted,  add  a little  lemon  juice  or  sliced  lemon, 
skim  off  all  scum,  and  boil  in  syrup  a few  apples  at  a time,  until 
transparent,  and  place  in  jar.  When  all  are  done,  boil  syrup  untii 
thick,  pour  boiling  hot  over  apples,  and  cover  closely.  Well-flav 
ored  fruit,  not  easily  broken  in  cooking,  should  be  used.  The  gin* 
ger  may  be  omitted  if  disliked,  and  orange  peel  or  other  flavoring 
used  instead.  Some  use  pound  for  pound  sugar  and  fruit  and  pre- 
fer to  chop  the  apples.  ^To  put  up  With  Boiled- Cider. 
quantities  of  sweet  and  sour  apples,  peel,  quarter,  and  core,  put  in 
preserving  kettle,  after  first  turning  a plate  over  on  bottom  to  keep 
from  burning ; to  a peck  of  apples  add  a quart  boiled-cider,  and 
boil  steadil  v and  gently  an  hour,  stirring  from  the  sides  to  prevent 
burning;  then  add  pint  molasses,  and  continue  boiling  fiv®  hours. 
The  heat  must  be  just  enough  to  keep  boiling ; boil  them  until  ap- 
ples are  ^red;  when  cold  put  in  glass  or  stone  jars,  or  wooden 
firkins  with  tight  covers.  Sometimes  one-fourth  the  quantity  of 
apples  is  added  in  quinces  or  quince  jjarings,  when  Quince  Jelly  or 
Preserves  are  being  made. 

Barherry  Preserves. — Tak^  pound  white  sugar  to  pound  fruit; 
put  sugar  over  fire  in  preserving  kettle,  with  half  pint  cold  water  to 
each  pound  ; let  the  syrup  boil  slowly,  and  remove  all  scum  ; pick 
over  barberries,  removing  all  defective  ones,  and  keep  the  bunches 
vrhole,  or  pick  from  stems,  as  liked ; when  the  syrup  is  clear  put  in 
the  berries  and  boil  gently  until  they  begin  to  look  clear ; then 
skim  them  out,  put  in  glass  jars,  and  boil  syrup  until  it  thickens  a 
little  ; test  by  cooling  a little  in  a saucer,  and  when  of  a rich  con- 
sistency, but  not  like  jelly,  pour  over  the  berries,  cool,  and  put  in 
jars.  A^yricot  Preserves  are  nuule  same  way,  opening  the  fruit 
only  just  enough  to  remove  stones;  crack  the  stones,  blanch  tlie 
kernels  and  put  a few  in  each  jc  r. 


PRESERVES. 


^'24 


Blackberry  Preserver. — Select  large,  ripe,  but  not  soft  berries  ; 
the  Lawton  is  best  for  this  purpose,  as  its  acidity  makes  a soft  jelly 
of  the  syrup.  Allow  pound  sugar  to  pound  fruit ; put  fruit  in  preserv- 
ing kettle,  let  heat  slowly  on  back  of  stove  until  there  is  so  much 
juice  that  it  can  boil  without  burning ; boil  until  perfectly  tender, 
ten  or  fifteen  minutes ; then  add  sugar,  mix  as  gently  as  possible, 
and  do  not  boil  again,  but  keep  very  hot  until  sugar  is  perfectly  dis- 
solved. Then  fill  cans  and  seal  as  directed.  With  CurranU^  put 
blackberries  and  sugar  in  kettle  in  layers,  with  sugar  at  bottom  and 
top,  and  next  day  add  half  pint  currant  juice  for  each  pound  ber- 
ries, boil  twenty  minutes,  skimming  well,  and  can  as  directed. 
Blueberry  Preserves  made  as  either  recipe  ; or  some  use  half  blue- 
berries and  half  currants  (instead  of  juice).  This  proportion  is  also 
nice,  using  quarter  as  much  sugar,  canned  for  pies.  Currant  and 
Cranberry  Preserves  made  as  first  recipe,  some  adding  a little  water. 

Carrot  Preserves. — Boil  small  fine-grained  carrots  in  water  till 
tender ; peel  and  grate,  add  sugar  to  taste,  slips  of  citron,  spices  if 
preferred,  and  a little  grape  or  currant  juice,  or  if  wished  very  nice, 
orange  and  lemon  juice,  half  and  half,  this  gives  more  the  flavor  of 
wine;  simmer  slowly  together  and  put  away  in  jars.  • Very  whole- 
some for  children  and  very  much  liked. 

Cherry  Preserves. — Choose  sour  ones — the  early  Richmond  is 
good — stone  very  carefully  and  allow  equal  quantities  sugar  and 
fruit;  sprinkle  half  the  sugar  over  the  fruit,  let  stand  an  hour,  pour 
into  preserving  kettle  and  boil  slowly  ten  minutes  ; skim  out  cher- 
ries, add  remainder  of  sugar  to  syrup,  boil,  skim  and  pour  over  the 
cherries ; next  day,  drain  off  syrup,  boil,  skim  if  necessary,  add  the 
cherries,  boil  twenty  minutes,  and  seal  up  in  small  jars.  Some  use 
only  three-fourths  pound  sugar  to  pound  fruit,  after  standing,  and 
prepare  syrup  and  cook  same  as  Barberry  Preserves,  boiling  in  the 
syrup  half  an  hour.  Or  prepare  after  recipes  for  Blackberries. 

Citron  Preserves. — Pare  off  rind,  seed,  cut  in  thin  slices  two 
inches  long,  weigh,  and  put  in  preserving  kettle  with  enough  water 
to  cover ; boil  one  hour,  take  out  melon,  and  to  water  in  kettle  add 
as  much  sugar  as  there  is  melon  by  weight,  boil  until  quite  thick, 
replace  melon,  add  two  sliced  lemons  to  each  pound  fruit,  boil 
twenty  minutes,  take  out,  boil  s;;  'T  very  thick  molasses,  and 


sugar  and  let  stand  oveiv 


pour  over  the  fruit.  Some  mix 


night  to  harden  citron,  then  finish  as  above.  The  juice  of  lemons 
is  preferred  by  some  to  the  slices,  and  a few  whole  cloves  may  be 
added.  Another  way  of  preparing  is  to  peel  and  cut  six  pounds  of 
rinds,  boil  them  in  strong  alum  water  half  an  hour  or  until  perfectly 
transparent,  drain,  and  put  them  in  a vessel  of  cold  water,  cover, 
and  let  remain  overnight.  Next  morning  tie  in  tliin  cloth  Inalf 
pound  race  ginger  and  boil  in  three  pints  water  until  strongly  fiav- 


PRESERVES. 


725 


ored.  Break  up  six  pounds  loaf  sugar  in  preserving  kettle,  pour 
ginger  water  over  it,  and  when  dissolved,  set  it  over  tlie  hre,  add 
juice  and  grated  rinds  of  four  lemons,  and  boil  and  skim  till  no 
scum  rises  ; put  in  the  rinds  and  boil  till  clear.  Skim  out  on  dishes 
and  set  in  a dry,  cool,  dark  place,  uncovered,  two  or  three  days,  till 
the  watery  particles  exhale  ; then  put  into  jars,  gently  pour  in  tlie 
syrup  and  seal.  Made  much  handsomer  by  cutting  the  citron  with 
fancy  cutters  made  for  the  purpose,  or  use  a vegetable  cutter. 

Crab-apple  Preserves. — Procure  the  red  Siberian  Crab  select- 
ing those  that  are  nearly  perfect,  leaving  the  stems  on,  and  put  in 
preserving  kettle  with  enough  warm  water  to  cover.  Heat  slowly 
to  boiling,  and  simmer  until  skins  break.  Drain  and  skim  them; 
then,  with  a pen-knife,  extract  the  cores  through  the  blossom  ends. 
Weigh  and  allow  a pound  and  a quarter  of  sugar  and  a cup  water 
to  every  pound  fruit.  Boil  water  and  sugar  together  until  scum 
ceases  to  rise,  skimming  well ; put  in  fruit,  cover  kettle,  and  simmer 
until  the  apples  are  a clear  red  and  tender.  Take  out  with  a skim- 
mer and  spread  upon  dishes  to  cool  and  harden  ; add  to  the  syrup 
the  juice  of  one  lemon  to  three  pounds  fruit,  and  boil  until  clear  and 
rich.  Fill  jars  three-quarters  full  of  apples,  pour  syrup  in,  and 
when  cool,  tie  up.  'Transcendent  Crabs  are  preserved  as  follov/s  : 
V/ipe  perfectly  sound  ri])e  fruit  with  a damp  cloth,  cut  olf  the  blos- 
som end,  but  leave  on  the  stems ; weigh,  and  allow  an  equal  weight 
in  sugar ; put  fruit  into  steamer  and  cook  until  tender,  watching 
carefully,  as  they  cook  very  quickly.  Make  a syrup  as  directed  in 
preface,  put  in  the  apples  and  boil  gently  until  they  begin  to  look 
clear,  removing  ail  scum  that  may  rise ; when  the  apples  are  clear, 
skim  them  out  of  the  syrup,  put  into  glass  jars,  and  continue  to 
boil  and  skim  the  syrup  until  it  thickens  when  a little  of  it  is  cooled 
on  a saucer ; pour  over  the  apples,  and  seal  the  jars  air-tight.  Some 
peel,  quarter  and  coi-e  fruit  and  put  wdth  it  an  equal  quantity  of 
raisins,  wdth  half  pound  sugar  for  each  pound  of  the  mixed  fruit ; 
make  a syrup  of  sugar  wdth  a little  water,  put  in  the  fruit  and  cook 
until  tender.  Put  up  as  above. 

Elderberry  Preserves. — Wash  and  stem  the  elderberries,  re- 
jecting all  imperfect  ones  and  boil  them  in  sorghum  molasses  until 
quite  thick,  then  pour  hot  into  stone  crocks  and  tie  up  securely  with 
a ))iece  of  clean  soft  paper  fitted  to  size  of  crock  laid  directly  on 
the  fruit  to  take  the  mold  if  there  be  any  from  a damp  cellar.  These 
are  intended  for  pies  and  are  to  be  used  as  directed  in  recipe  for 
Elderberr}^  Pie.  WiUl  Grapes  may  be  put  up  in  same  wmy  and 
make  delicious  pies. 

Fig  Preserves. — Gather  fruit  when  fully  ripe,  but  not  cracked- 
open  ; place  in  perforated  tin  bucket  or  wire  basket,  and  dip  for  a 
moment  into  deep  kettle  of  hot  and  moderately  strong  lye  (some 


726 


PRESERVES. 


prefer  letting  them  lie  an  hour  in  lime-water  and  afterwards  drain) ; 
make  a syrup  as  directed  in  ])reface  and  when  figs  are  well  drained, 
put  them  in  and  boil  until  well  cooked  ; remove,  boil  syrup  till  there 
is  just  enough  to  cover  fruit,  put  fruit  back  in  syrup,  let  all  boil,  and 
seal  up  while  hot  in  glass  or  earthen  jars. 

Grape  Preserves. — Prepare  fruit  as  in  Grape  Jam  taking  same 
proportion  sugar;  put  skins  and  juice  in  kettle,  cover  closely,  and 
cook  slowly  until  sldns  are  tender;  while  still  boiling  add  sugar  and 
move  kedtle  back,  as  it  must  not  boil  again  ; keep  very  hot  for  fif- 
teen minutes,  th.en,  if  sure  sugar  is  thoroughly  dissolved,  pour  fruit 
in  cans,  and  screw  down  covers  as  soon  as  possible.  To  make 
Grep-n  Grape  Preserves^  halve  them  and  extract  seeds  with  a needle 
or  small  knife,  cook  till  tender  with  sugar,  pound  for  pound.  Some 
first  boil  the  grapes  a few  moments  in  alum  water,  then  drain,  and 
put  into  the  syrup. 

Greengage  Preserves. — Allow  one  pound  sugar  and  gill  water 
to  every  pound  fruit ; boil  sugar  and  water  together  ten  minutes, 
skimming  well  ; halve  the  greengages,  take  out  stones,  put  fruit  into 
syrup,  and  simmer  gently  until  neai’ly  tender,  removing  all  scum. 
Take  off  fire,  put  into  large  crock,  and  next  day  boil  again  for  abom 
ten  minutes  with  the  blanched  kernels  from  the  stones.  Put  fruit 
carefully  into  jars,  pour  the  syrup  over  it  and  cover  when  cold. 

MaU)erry  Preserves.~V\iX  some  of  the  fruit  in  preserving  ket 
tie,  and  simmer  it  gently  until  the  juice  flows  freely.  Strain  through 
a bag,  measure  it,  and  to  every  pint  juice  allow  two  and  a hall 
pounds  sugar  and  two  pounds  fruit.  Put  sugar  in  preserving  kettle, 
moisten  with  the  juice,  boil  up,  skim  well,  and  add  fresh  mulberries, 
which  should  be  ripe,  but  not  soft  enough  to  break  to  a pulp.  Let 
them  stc'uid  in  syru  p till  v/arnred  through,  then  boil  gently  ; when  half 
done,  turn  cai'efully  into  crock,  and  let  remain  till  next  day  ; then 
boil  as  before,  and  when  syrup  is  thick,  and  becomes  firm  when  cold, 
put  preserves  into  cans  or  jars.  In  making  this,  care  should  bs 
taken  not  to  break  mulberries  ; stir  gently, and  simmer  the  fruit  slowl}; . 

Peach  Preserves. — Take  any  fine  peaches  that  do  not  mash 
readily  in  cooking,  pare  very  tliinhg  halve  them  and  remove  pits; 
take  sugar  equal  in  weight  to  fruit,  or  if  to  be  sealed  in  cans,  three- 
quarters  pound  sugar  to  pound  fruit,  and  water  in  proportion  of  a 
half  pint  to  each  pound  sugar.  Boil  pits  in  the  water,  adding  moro 
as  it  evaporates,  to  keep  the  proportion  good,  remove  pits,  add 
sugar,  clarify  as  directed,  and  when  the  scum  ceases  to  rise,  add 
fruit,  a small  quantity  at  a time ; cook  slowly  about  ten  minutes, 
skim  out  into  a jar,  add  more,  ancl  so  on  until  all  are  done,  then 
pour  the  boiling  syrup  over  all.  The  next  day  drain  off  and  boil 
syrup  a few  minutes  only,  and  pour  ])a«*k,  repeating  daily  until  the 
fruit  looks  clear.  Two  or  three  times  is  generally  sufficient.  The 


PRESERVES. 


727 


last  time  put  up  the  preserves  in  small  jars  and  secure  with  paper 
us  directed  for  jellies.  If  to  be  sealed  in  cans,  the  first  boiling  is 
sufficient,  after  which  put  into  cans  and  seal  immediately.  The  lat- 
ter plan  is  preferable,  as  it  takes  less  trouble  and  less  sugar,  Avhile 
the  natural  flavor  of  the  fruit  is  better  retained.  Instead  of  using  as 
above  some  crack  the  pits,  take  out  the  kernels,  blanch  them  and 
put  in  the  jars  with  the  fruit.  Many  think  peach  preserves  much 
nicer  if  made  with  maple  sugar.  The  best  part  of  a p'aach  lies 
nearest  the  skin  and  for  this  reason  some  do  not  peel  peaches  h-r 
preserves,simply  wiping  with  a Avoolen  cloth  to  remove  fuzz.  But  peel  - 
ing by  immersion  removes  very  little  of  the  valued  part.  Clingstone 
peaches  are  preserved  as  above,  whole,  except  that  they  are  put  on  in 
clear  Avater  and  boiled  until  so  tender  that  they  may  be  pierced  Avith 
a silver  fork  before  adding  the  sugar.  Yov  Sun-preserved  Peaches^ 
place  in  earthen  dishes  alternate  layers  of  peaches  and  sugar  and 
let  stand  overnight:  then  boil  over  slow  fire  until  transparent,  pour 
into  large  dishes  and  stand  in  the  sun  until  the  syrup  is  almost  a 
jell3n  Put  in  jars  and  see  that  no  bubbles  of  air  are  left  in  them ; 
place  brandied  paper  on  top  and  cover  as  directed. 

Pear  Preserves. — Pare,  cut  in  halves,  core  and  weigh,  and  to 
preA^ent  darkening  drop  into  cold  Avater  till  ready  to  use;  if  hard,  boil 
in  Avater  until  tender,  and  use  the  water  for  syrup ; allow  three-quar- 
ters pound  sugar  for  each  pound  fruit,  boil  a fcAV  moments,  skim, 
and  cool ; when  lukeAvarm  add  pears,  and  boil  gently  until  syrup 
has  penetrated  them  and  they  look  clear ; some  of  the  pieces  Avill 
cook  before  the  rest,  and  must  be  removed ; when  done,  take  out, 
boil  doAvn  syrup  a little  and  pour  over  them ; a feAV  cloves  stuck 
here  and  there  in  the  pears  add  a pleasant  flavor.  Seal  in  glass  cans. 
Some  leaA^e  the  pears  Avhole  and  boil  in  Avater  until  tender ; then 
take  them  out,  add  sugar  to  Avater  in  Avhich  they  Avere  boiled,  and 
when  clear  and  thick,  put  in  the  pears  and  simmer  gently  half  an 
hour.  Then  can  as  directed. 

Pie-plant  Preserves. — Wash  clean,  but  do  not  peel ; cut  up  an 
inch  or  tAvo  in  length,  put  a layer  in  small  jar,  then  a layer  of  sugar, 
another  layer  of  pie-plant,  then  sugar,  until  the  pan  or  crock  is  full, 
alloAving  pound  sugar  to  pound  pie-plant ; cover  tightly,  put  in  hot 
oven,  and  as  soon  as  it  is  heated  through  it  is  done.  The  pie-plant 
will  be  whole,  and  the  syrup  rich  and  a pretty  color.  Do  not  put  in 
a drop  of  Avater.  An  earthen  bean-pot  Avith  cover  is  the  best  to  us(q 
and  fruit  must  then  cook  half  an  hour.  Put  up  in  glass  cans. 

Pine-apple  Preserves. — Select  ripe  and  perfectly  sound  pine- 
apples, cut  in  rather  thick  slices,  as  fruit  shrinks  very  much  in  boil- 
ing, and  pare  off  . rind  carefully,  notching  in  and  out,  as  the  edge 
cannot  be  smoothly  cut  without  great  Avaste.  Allow  pound  sugar 
to  pound  fruit  and  dissolve  a portion  of  sugar  in  preserving  kettle 
with  a gill  Avater;  Avhen  this  is  melted,  gradually  add  remainder  ol 


728 


PRESERVES. 


sugar,  and  boil  until  it  forms  a clear  syrup,  skimming  well.  Put  in 
pieces  of  pine-apple  and  boil  well  for  at  least  half  an  hour,  or  until 
it  looks  nearly  transparent.  Put  into  jars,  cover  down  when  cold,  * 
and  store  away  in  a dry  place.  Some  put  fruit  and  sugar  in  kettle 
in  layers,  with  a cup  water  for  each  pound  sugar ; when  it  boils  take 
out  pine-apple  and  spread  on  dishes  in  the  sun.  Boil  the  syrup 
half  an  hour,  skimming  well.  Return  pine-apple  to  kettle  and  boil 
fifteen  minutes.  Take  it  out,  pack  in  wide-mouthed  jars,  pour  on 
the  scalding  syrup ; cover  to  keep  in  heat,  and  when  cold  tie  as  di- 
rected in  preface.  Or  the  pine-apple  may  be  grated,  sprinkled  with 
the  sugar  and  let  stand  overnight.  Next  morning  bring  to  a boil 
and  it  is  done.  Put  in  jars  as  directed. 

Plum  Preserves.  Take  equal  weight  sugar  and  plums ; add 
sufficient  water  to  sugar  to  make  a thick  syrup,  boil,  skim,  and  pour 
over  plums  (previously  washed,  pricked  and  placed  in  a stone  jar), 
and  cover  with  a plate.  The  next  day  drain  off  syrup,  boil,  skim, 
and  pour  it  over  plums ; repeat  this  for  three  or  four  days,  place 
plums  and  syrup  in  preserving  kettle,  and  boil  very  slowly  for  half 
an  hour.  Put  up  in  stone  jars,  cover  with  papers  like  jellies,  or  seal 
in  cans.  Some  simply  boil  the  plums,  first  pricking  them,  in  the 
thick  syrup  till  tender,  then  can.  Others  boil  in  water  to  cover  (if 
fruit  is  sour  adding  a teaspoon  soda  to  each  pint  water  to  take  off 
the  bitter  taste)  until  tender  then  rinse  them  in  cold  water  and  stone 
carefully,  keeping  as  nearly  whole  as  possible;  then  boil  them  a few 
minutes  in  the  thick  syrup  and  can.  Or  select  large  ripe  plums, 
weigh  them,  slightly  prick  them,  to  prevent  from  bursting,  and  sim- 
mer very  gently  in  a syrup  made  of  a quarter  pound  sugar  to  each 
pint  water.  Put  them  carefully  in  pan,  let  syrup  cool,  pour  it  over 
the  plums,  and  let  stand  two  days.  Make  another  syrup,  of  three- 
fourths  pound  sugar  for  every  pound  fruit  as  first  weighed,  with  as 
little  water  as  possible,  boiling  and  skimming  carefully.  Drain 
plums  from  first  syrup,  put  them  into  the  fresh  syrup,  and  simmer 
very  gently  until  they  are  clear ; lift  them  out  singly  into  cans  or 
jars,  pour  the  syrup  over,  and  when  cold,  cover  as  directed.  Green-- 
gages  are  also  very  delicious  done  in  this  manner.  To  Preserve 
Plums  gather  plums  when  full-grown  and  just  turning  color : 
prick  them,  put  in  saucepan  cold  water,  and  set  over  fire  until  water 
is  on  point  of  boiling.  Then  take  them  out,  drain,  and  boil  gently 
in  syrup  made  with  ])ound  sugar  to  -each  gill  water;  if  the  plums 
shrink,  and  wnll  not  take  the  sugar,  prick  them  as  they  lie  in  the 
pan ; give  another  boil,  skim,  and  set  away.  Next  day  add  more 
sugar,  boiled  almost  to  candv,  to  the  fruit  and  syrup ; put  all  together 
in  wide-mouthed  jar,  and  place  them  in  a cool  oven  for  two  nights  ; 
then  drain  the  plums  from  the  syrup,  sprinkle  a little  powdered 
sugar  over,  and  dry  them  in  a cool  oven. 


PRESERVES. 


729 


Pumjphin  Preserves. — Halve  a good  sweet  pumpkin,  take  out 
seeds,  cut  into  slices,  pare,  then  cut  in  small  pieces,  weigh  and  put 
in  preserving  kettle  in  layers  with  same  quantity  of  sugar  sprinkled 
between  ; add  a gill  lemon  juice  on  top  and  let  stand  two  or  three 
days.  Add  a half  pint  water  for  every  three  pounds  sugar  used  and 
boil  until  pumpkin  is  tender  ; turn  into  a pan  and  let  remain  a week. 
Then  drain  off  syrup,  boil  until  it  is  thick,  skim  and  pour  boiling 
hot  back  over  the  pumpkin.  A little  bruised  ginger  and  thinly 
pared  lemon  rind,  may  be  boiled  with  the  syrup  to  flavor. 

Quince  Preserves. — Take  equal  weights  of  quinces  and  sugar, 
pare,  core,  and  leave  whole  or  cut  up  as  preferred,  boil  till  tender  in 
water  enough  to  cover  (some  steam  them),  take  out  carefully  and 
put  on  a platter ; add  sugar  to  water,  replace  fruit  and  boil  slowly 
till  clear,  place  in  jars  and  pour  syrup  over  them.  To  increase  the 
quantity  without  adding  sugar,  take  half  • or  two-thirds  in  weight  as 
many  fair  sweet  apples  as  there  are  quinces,  pare,  quarter,  and  core  ; 
after  removing  quinces,  put  apples  into  the  syrup,  and  boil  until 
they  begin  to  look  red  and  clear,  and  are  tender ; place  quinces  and 
apples  in  jar  in  alternate  layers,  and  cover  with  syrup,  making  very 
nice  Quince  and  Apple  Preserves.  Some  boil  the  parings  and 
cores,  tied  in  a cloth,  with  the  quinces  to  enhance  the  flavor.  For 
other  use  of  parings  and  cores,  see  Quince  Jelly.  Apples  alone 
may  be  preserved  in  same  way. 

Strawberry  Preserves. — Take  fresh  strawberries,  cover  with 
their  weight  in  granulated  sugar  and  let  stand  overnight.  In  the 
morning  drain  off  the  syrup,  put  in  preserving  kettle,  cook  about 
twenty  minutes,  then  put  in  berries  and  cook  ten  minutes.  Put  up 
in  glass  cans  or  in  jelly  glasses.  Or  put  two  pounds  sugar  in  pre- 
serving kettle  over  kettle  of  boiling  water,  and  add  half  a pint  boil- 
ing water;  when  the  sugar  is  dissolved  and  hot,  put  in  the  straw- 
berries, and  place  the  pan  directly  on  the  stove  or  range ; let  boil  ten 
minutes  or  longer,  if  the  fruit  is  not  clear ; gently  (or  the  berries  will 
be  broken)  take  up  with  a small  strainer,  and  keep  hot  while  syrup 
is  boiled  down  until  thick  and  rich ; drain  off  thin  syrup  from  cans, 
and  pour  the  rich  syrup  over  berries  to  fill,  and  screw  down  the  tops 
imimediately.  The  thin  syrup  poured  off  maybe  brought  to  boiling, 
and  then  bottled  and  sealed,  to  be  used  for  sauce  and  drinks. 
Uaspherry  Preserves  prepared  same. 

Tomato  Preserves. — Scald  and  peel  carefully  small  perfectly” 
formed  tomatoes,  not  too  ripe  (yellow  pear-shaped  are, best),  add  an 
equal  amount  of  sugar  by  weight,  let  lie  overnight,  then  pour  off  all 
juice  into  a preserving  kettle,  and  boil  to  a thick  syrup, clarifying  with 
white  of  egg ; add  tomatoes  and  boil  carefully  until  they  look  trans- 
parent. A pie(ie  or  two  of  root-ginger,  or  one  lemon  to  a pound  of 
fruit,  sliced  thin  and  cooked  with  fruit  may  be  added.  Or  when 


730 


PEESERVES. 


done,  take  out  fruit  with  a perforated  skimmer  aud  spread  upon 
dishes;  boil  S3ump  until  it  thickens,  adding,  just  before  taking  up, 
juice  of  three  lemons ; put  fruit  into  jars  and  fill  up  with  hot  syrup. 
When  cold,  seal.  Some  do  not  peel  tomatoes,  but  wipe  them 
first  with  a wet  cloth,  then  a dry  one,  and  prick  each  several  times 
with  a large  needle  to  prevent  bursting,  then  cook  as  above. 

Green  'Tomato  Preserves. — To  five  quarts  sliced  green  tomatoes, 
take  three  lemons  or  more  and  allow  three-fourths  pound  sugar  to 
one  pound  tomatoes ; cook  tomatoes  in  water  till  soft,  then  skim  out, 
and  throw  that  water  away ; make  a sjnmp  of  sugar,  putting  the 
lemons  in  the  syrup  to  cook;  then  put  in  tomatoes,  and  let  them 
just  come  to  a boil.  Or  take  tomatoes  size  of  walnut,  or  less  and 
pierce  with  a fork.  Put  half  the  sugar  over  them  and  let  stand  over- 
night ; in  the  morning  add  remainder  of  sugar  with  lemons,  put 
over  fire  and  simmer,  but  not  boil,  until  all  have  changed  color  or 
become  transparent,  then  cover.  Or  use  only  juice  of  lemons,  place 
fruit  on  plates  and  finish  as  in  second  recipe  of  Tomato  Preserves. 

Water-melon  Preserves. — Pare  rinds  of  water-melon,  cut  in 
pieces  two  inches  long  or  in  leaves,  stars,  diamonds,  triangles, 
hearts,  etc. ; weigh,  throw  into  cold  water,  skim  out,  add  heaping' 
teaspoon  each  salt  and  pulverized  alum  to  two  gallons  rinds,  let 
stand  until  salt  and  alum  dissolve,  some  leave  overnight ; fill  kettle 
with  cold  water,  and  place  on  top  of  stove  where  it  will  slowly  come 
to  boiling  point,  covering  vnth  a large  plate  so  as  to  keep  rinds  un- 
der ; boil  until  they  can  be  easily  pierced  with  a fork,  drain  from 
water,  and  put  into  a svrup  previously  prepared  as  follows  : Bruise 
and  tie  in  muslin  bag  four  ounces  of  dried  or  green  ginger-root,  and 
boil  in  turn  or  three  pints  water  until  strongl}^  flavored.  If  green 
root  is  used,  it  must  be  soaked  and  scraped,  so  it  will  not  discolor 
the  syrup.  Add  also  the  rinds  of  three  or  four  lemons  pared  in 
quarters  (squeeze  lemons  and  use  juice  as  directed  hereafter)  ; when 
water  is  well  flavored  with  the  rinds,  skim  them  out  and  put  in 
another  saucepan,  cover  with  fresh  water  and  boil  till  tender,  then 
cut  in  narrow  strips  lengthwise,  notching  the  edges,  or  cut  in  any 
shapes  wished.  Make  a syrup  of  a gill  of  the  water  in  which  ginger 
and  lemon  rinds  were  boiled  and  heaping  pint  sugar ; when  well  dis- 
solved, place  on  fire,  boil,  add  a heaping  pint  melon,  and  half  dozen 
pieces  lemon  rinds,  boil  till  transparent ; place  in  glass  cans  arrang- 
ing nicest  pieces  on  outside,  pour  over  the  hot  s^wup  and  seal  as 
directed  in  Canning  Fruit.  If  wanted  very  nice  have  fresh  s^wup 
made  as  above  and  to  that  proportion  add  two  tablespoons  lemon 
juice  and  pour  over;  using  that  in  first  kettle  for  cooking  a 
second  pint  of  rinds,  or  can  it  and  use  in  mince-meat  or  cooking 
any  fruit.  Citrons  may  be  prepared  in  same  way,  by  paring,  coring 
and  slicing,  or  cutting  into  fanciful  shapes  with  tin  cutters  made  for 
the  purpose;  or  left  whole,  piece  removed  as  if  preparing  for  Mao- 


PRESERVES. 


731 


goes,  and  the  pulp  taken  out.  After  being  preserved  fill  with  any 
preserves  wished,  nicely  drained,  and  tie  in  the  piece;  j'lace  in  jai 
and  cover  with  syrup.  Some  after  cooking  melon  rinds  in  water 
put  sugar  and  rinds  in  alternate  layers  in  jar  and  let  stand  over- 
night ; in  the  morning  drain  off  syrup,  heat  and  boil  the  rinds  in  it 
until  tender,  then  take  them  out  into  cans  or  jars  and  boil  the  syrup 
till  thick,  adding  lemon  and  ginger  flavoring  as  above  if  liked  ; pour 
the  syrup  over  the  rinds  and  seal  or  cover.  The.  ginger  root  may 
tiien  be  preserved  with  the  melon.  Others  pour  a strong  salt  briife 
over  melon  or  citron  pieces  and  let  stand  two  weeks,  or  even  longer, 
then  soak,  changing  vrater  two  or  three  times.  When  perfectly 
fresh,  boil  in  water  half  an  hour,  drain,  add  cold  \vater,  cook  till 
tender  and  then  preserve  in  syrup  as  in  first  recipe. 

Apple  Cheese. — Put  an  equal  weight  pared  and  cored  apples 
and  stoned  plums  into  preserving  kettle.  Boil  without  adding  any 
Water.  When  fruit  begins  to  soften  add  pound  sugar  to  each  pound 
pulp.  Boil  slowly  for  an  hour,  and  ])our  into  shallow  molds  ; place 
these  in  a slow  oven  when  the  preserve  will  dry  until  it  resembles 
a fruit  cheese.  Or,  take  one  pound  pulped  apples,  one  pound  pow- 
dered white  sugar,  the  juice  and  grated  rind  of  three  lemons,  and 
four  eggs  well  beaten.  Mix  these  ingredients  cra-efully,  and  put 
them  into  a saucepan  with  quarter  pound  fresh  butter,  melted.  Stir 
it  over  a moderate  fire  for  half  an  lionr  without  ceasing,  and  put 
into  jars,  covering  wBen  cold.  Use  as  required  for  tarts,  puffs,  etc. 
This  is  a most  delicious  preserve,  and  keeps  quite  a while. 

Preserved  Quhices  hi  Jelly. — Pare,  quarter  and  core  quinces, 
cut  in  little  squares  and  drop  into  cold  water  uniii  all  are  done ; 
then  measure  and  allow  an  equal  amount  sugar ; place  fruit  in  porce- 
lain kettle  with  just  water  enough  to  cover,  ])<>il  till  tender,  and 
skim  out  carefully;  make  syrup  of  sugar  and  water  in  which  the 
quinces  were  boiled,  let  come  to  boiling  point,  skim  well,  and  drop 
the  quinces  in  gently;  boil  fifteen  minutes  and  dip  out  carefully 
into  jelly  glasses.  The  syrup  forms  a jelly  around  the  fruit  so  that 
it  can  be  turned  out  on  a dish,  and  is  very  palatable  as  well  as  orna- 
mental. F or  present  use  it  is  nice  placed  in  a fancy  mold  and  served 
when  cold.  Quinces  too  defective  for  preserves  may  be  thus  used, 

Apple  Blitter. — When  one  barrel  of  new  cider  has  boiled  down 
ha.if,  add  three  bushels  good  cooking  apples  and  when  soft  stir  con- 
stantly for  from  eight  to  ten  hours.  If  done  it  will  adhere  to  an  in- 
verted X)1  ate  ; ])ut  away  in  stone  jars  (not  earthen  ware),  covering 
first  vdth  brnndicd  pappcr  cut  to  fit  jnr,  and  pressed  down  closely 
upon  tho  apple  butter  ; then  cover  the  jar  with  thick  brown  paper 
tightly  tied  down.  To  make  a small  quantity,  some  boil  down  a gal- 
lon new  cider  to  a quart ; then  having  pared,  cored  and  steamed  ap- 
ples till  tender,  rub  them  through  a sieve  and  thicken  the  boiled 


732 


PRESERVES. 


cider  with  the  pulp.  A little  lemon  or  orange  juice  may  be  added, 
or  any  fruit  juice.  The  latter  is  much  nicer  than  to  use  any  spices. 
For  Quince  and  Apple  Butter,  pare,  core  and  quarter  half  as  many 
quinces  as  apples  and  weigh  both,  allowing  half  the  weight  in  sugar. 
Boil  quinces  in  little  water  until  soft,  put  in  apples,  when  tender 
add  sugar  and  boil  slowly  several  hours.  Stir  frequently  to  prevent 
burning.  Or  quinces  ma}^  be  cored  but  not  pared,  cooked  as  above, 
adding  apples,  and  put  through  a colander  before  adding  sugar.  It 
will  then  not  require  so  long  stirring.  Quince  Butter  made  same. 

Egg  Butter.' — Boil  a pint  molasses  slowly  about  fifteen  or 
twenty  minutes,  stirring  to  prevent  burning ; add  three  eggs  well 
beaten,  stirring’  them  in  as  fast  as  possible,  boil  a few  minutes 
longer,  partially  cool,  and  flavor  to  taste  with  lemon.  For  Lemon 
Butter  see  Pastry. 

Peach  Butter.— pound  for  pound  peaches  and  sugar; 
cook  peaches  alone  until  soft,  then  put  in  half  the  sugar,  and  stir 
half  an  hour ; add  remainder  of  sugar,  and  stir  an  hour  and  a half. 
Season  W'ith  cloves  and  cinnamon.  Or  With  put  in  six 

quarts  peeled,  stoned  and  sliced  peaches  in  preserving  kettle  with 
three  quarts  sugar,  and  pint  vinegar,  heat  gradually,  and  simmer 
genth" ; carefully  stir  occasionally  until  it  begins  to  thicken,  and 
then  stir  almost  constantly  till  consistency  of  Apple  Butter,  cook- 
ing tliree  or  four  hours.  Put  away  as  directed,  covering  first  with 
the  brandied  paper ; or  alcohol  may  be  used  for  wetting  the  paper. 

Plum  Butter. — Stew  and  pulp  wild  plums  through  a sieve,  and 
to  one  gallon  of  this  add  three  quarts  sugar  and  one  desertspoon 
salt;  cook  two  hours,  stirring  as  directed;-  add  half  pint  vinegar, 
two  small  pieces  race  ginger,  teaspoon  each  ground  cloves,  allspice, 
celery  seed  and  two  of  ground  cinnamon,  with  a pinch  cayenne, 
boil  up  once  and  can. 

Pumpkin  Butter. — Take  seeds  out  of  one  pumpkin,  cut  in 
small  pieces  and  boil  soft , cut  three  other  pumpkins  in  pieces,  boil 
them  soft,  put  in  a coarse  bag  and  press  out  juice  ; add  juice  to  pulp 
of  first  pum])kin,  and  let  boil  ten  hours  or  more,  till  the  thickness 
of  Apple  Butter  ; stir  often.  If  pumpkins  are  frozen,  juice  will  come 
out  much  easier.  Or  cook  pumpkin  in  ordinary  manner  until  all  or 
nearly  all  the  w^ater  is  cooked  out  (see  Pumpkin  Pies) ; to  every  three 
gallons  pumpkin  pulp  take  one  of  amber-syrup  and  ounce  each  all- 
spice, cloves  and  cinnamon,  and  cook  'well  together,  or  until  proper 
consistency  for  table  use;  when  made  late  in  fall  and  put  in  jars  in 
a cool  place,  will  keep  for  months ; very  convenient  for  Pumpkin- 
pies,  Another  way  of  preparing  is  to  either  steam  or  bake  pump- 
kin, then  mash  through  a strainer,  mix  sugar  and  butter  with  it  in 
proportion  of  a pound  sugar  and  four  tablespoons  butter  to  two 
pounds  pumpkin,  and  a piece  race  ginger  bruised,  orthinly  shaved 


PRESERVES. 


733 


lemon  rind ; let  simmer  at  back  of  stove  or  set  upon  bricks  on  stove 
for  perhaps  an  hour.  It  becomes  thick  and  semi-transparent. 

Tomato  Butter. — Wash  ripe  tomatoes,  cut  out  any  defective  parts 
and  stew  without  peeling  till  very  soft ; then  pulp  through  sieve 
and  to  nine  pints  pulp  take  four  pints  of  sugar,  boil  pulp  one  or  two 
hours,  add  sugar  and  ounce  povv^dered  cinnamon,  or  two  if  liked  high- 
ly spiced ; cook  till  thick  as  Apple  Butter,  stirring  constantly,  (about 
an  hour  longer),  and  just  before  it  is  done  add  two  lemons  sliced 
thin.  Fill  in  glass  cans,  jelly  glasses  or  jars,  and  seal  or  cover  as 
directed.  This  can  be  made  from  canned  tomatoes  ; six  quart  cans 
making  above  quantity  of  pulp.  For  Spiced  Tomato  Butter^  add 
heaping  pint  sugar  to  t\vo  quarts  pulp,  prepared  as  above,  gill  vine- 
gar, piece  race  ginger,  half  teaspoon  each  powdered  cloves,  allspice 
and  celery  seed,  and  teaspoon  each  cinnamon  and  black  pepper. 
Cook  and  finish  as  above. 


Apple  Marmalade. — Take  nice  sound  apples,  pare,  core  and 
cut  in  small  pieces  and  to  every  pound  fruit  add  pound  sugar.  Put 
sugar  on  to  boil  with  enough  water  to  disolve  it,  boil  together 
till  thick,  then  add  the  apples  and  boil  till  clear,  adding  juice  and 
grated  peel  one  large  lemon  to  four  pounds  fruit.  Some  like  the 
flavor  of  essence  of  ginger.  Or  take  twelve  pounds  richly  flavored 
sweet  apples,  three  pounds  brown  sugar  and  juice  and  grated  rind 
three  lemons.  Boil  slowly,  mash  and  stir  until  a smooth  marmalade. 


Apricot  Marmalade. — Peel,  cut  in  half  and  take  out  stones 
(saving  them),  and  allow  one  and  one-half  pounds  sugar  to  each 
pound  fruit.  Put  a layer  of  fruit  in  large  stone  jar,  then  a layer  of 
sugar,  and  so  alternate  till  all  are  used,  putting  a thick  layer  of  powder- 
ed sugar  over  last  layer  of  fruit.  Let  stand  twenty-four  hours,  then 
put  in  preserving  kettle  and  boil  three-quarters  of  an  hour  stirring 
all  the  time.  Crack  stones,  take  out  kernels,  blanch  them,  cut  into 
thin  slices  and  when  marmalade  is  nearly  done  put  them  in  and  stir 
well.  When  mixture  hangs  in  a thread  from  spoon  it  is  done.  Pour 
in  jars,  let  stand  twenty-four  hours  and  cover  as  directed. 

• Fig  Marmalade. — Use  fine  fresh  figs,  and  to  every  pound  fruit 
add  three-quarters  pound  sugar,  the  yellow  rind  of  an  orange  or 
lemon  pared  very  thin.  Cut  up  figs,  put  in  kettle  v/ith  sugar  and 
orange,  also  the  juice.  Boil  until  reduced  to  a thick  smooth  mass 
s-dr  from  bottom.  Put  in  jars  and  cover  closely. 


Orange  Marrnodade. — Choose  fine  Seville  oranges,  put  them 
whole  in  stewpan  with  sufficient  water  to  cover,  and  stew  until  per- 
fectly tender,  changing  water  two  or  three  times ; drain,  take  ofif 
rind,  remove  seeds  from  pulp,  boil  anotlier  ten  minutes,  then  add 
peel  cut  into  strips,  and  boil  mairnal.edo  t(  n minutes  a as  in,  when  it 


PRESERVES. 


o4 


oranges,  added  with  the  pulp  and  peel  of  the  oranges  are  a great 
improvement.  Pour  into  jars,  cool  and  cover.  Or  take  twelve 
pounds  sour  oranges,  twelve  pounds  crushed  sugar;  wash  oranges 
and  pare  them  as  apples ; put  peel  in  preserving  kettle  with  twice 
its  bulk  or  more  of  cold  water ; keep  covered,  and  boil  until  per- 
fectly tender ; if  water  boils  away,  add  more  ; the  peel  is  gener- 
ally very  hard,  and  requires  several  hours  boiling;  cut  oranges  in 
two  crosswise,  squeeze  out  juice  and  soft  pulp,  have  a pitcher  witii 
a strainer  in  the  top,  place  in  a two-quart  bowl,  squeeze  thin  juice 
and  seeds  in  the  strainer  and  the  rest  with  pulp  in  bowl,  drawung 
the  skin  as  it  is  squeezed  over  the  edge  of  tin  strainer,  to  scrape  oti 
the  pulp,  then  pour  all  juice  and  pulp  on  sugar;  the  white  skins 
must  be  covered  with  three  quarts  cold  water,  and  boiled  half  an 
hour;  drain  water  on  sugar,  put  white  skins  in  colander, four  or  five 
together,  and  pound  off  soft  part,  of  which  there  must  be  in  all  two 
vounds  and  four  ounces ; put  this  with  sugar  and  juice ; when  peel  is 
tender  drain  it  from  water,  and  either  pound  it  in  a mortar,  chop- it 
n a bowl,  or  cut  it  in  delicate  shreds  with  a pair  of  scissors,  or,  to 
save  the  necessity  of  handling  the  peel  after  it  is  boiled,  grate  yellow 
rind  from  orange,  then  tie  it  in  a muslin  bag,  and  boil  until  soft, 
which  can  be  told  by  rubbing  a little  of  it  between  the  thumb  and 
inger ; it  is.  then  reaily  for  the  other  ingredients  ; put  the  whole  in 
(I  porcelain  kettle,  or  in  a bright  tin  preserving  pan,  and  boil  about 
an  hour;  when  it  begins  to  thicken  it  must  be  tried  occasionally,  by 
letting  a little  cool  in  a spoon  laid  on  ice.  To  prevent  its  burning, 
stir  constantly ; when  done  put  in  glasses  and  cover  with  paper. 

Peach  Marmalade. — Choose  ripe,  well  flavored  fruit,  and  it  is 
well  to  make  this  when  making  preserves,  reserving  the  softer  ones 
for  marmalade.  The  flavor  is  improved  by  first  boiling  pits  in  water 
with  which  syrup  is  to  be  made.  Quarter  peaches  and  boil  thirty 
minutes  before  adding  sugar,  stirring  almost  constantly  from  time 
peaches  begin  to  be  tender;  add  sugar  in  proportion  of  three-fourths 
pound  sugar  to  one  pound  fruit,  contiuue  to  boil  and  stir  for  an 
hour  longer,  and  put  up  in  jars,  pressing  paper  over  them  as  directed 
for  jellies.  Some  add  juice  of  a lemon  to  every  three  pounds  fruit 
and  the  blanched  kernels  as  in  Apricot  Marmalade'  Or  a large  ripe 
pine-apple,  pared,  cut  fine  and  cooked  wdth  peaches,  gives  fine  flavor. 

Fine-apple  Marmalade. — Pare  pine-apples,  take  out  eyes,  weigh 
and  allow  a pound  granulated  sugar  to  every  pound  fruit;  grate 
pine-apple,  or  shred  with  a silver  fork,  put  over  the  fire,  add  the 
sugar  gradually,  and  cook  very  gently  until  clear  and  thick  as  jelly, 
stirring  often.  Put  up  in  air-tight  cans.  Some  chop  pine-apple  and 
team  until  tender,  then  put  into  a syrup  of  the  sugar  moist- 
med  with  half  pint  water  for  each  pound,  and  cook  and  stir  as  above. 


PUDDINGS  AND  SAUCES. 


735 


PUDDmC^S  AND  SAUCES. 


Not  any  ingredient  of  doubtful  quality  should  enter  into  the  compo- 
sition of  puddings.  Suet  must  hQ  perfectly  sweet  and  milk  should 
be  fresh  and  without  the  least  unpleasant  flavor.  Suet  when  over 
kept  or  milk  soured  or  curdled  in  the  slightest  degree,  ruins  a pud- 
ding which  would  otherwise  be  most  delicious.  Prepare  raisins  and 
currants  as  directed  on  page  65  ; adding  a little  flour  to  the  raisins 
while  cleaning  will  be  found  an  improvement,  and  if  a colander  with 
small  holes  is  at  hand,  use  this  for  washing  the  currants  ; put  currants 
in  colander,  set  in  hot  water,  stir  briskly  about  and  change  water  two 
or  three  times.  Almonds  and  spices  must  be  very  finely  pounded,  and 
the  rinds  of  oranges  or  lemons  grated  lightly  off  (th  inner  white  part 
of  the  peel  is  bitter  and  must  not  be  used).  In  making  pudding 
when  butter  and  sugar  are  used  it  is  better  to  cream  them  together 
before  adding  to  other  ingredients.  Creaming'^  is  simply  beating 
until  they  assume  a light  frothy  appearance,  and  butter  is  some- 
times creamed,  or  beaten  till  light,  alone.  Always  beat  eggs  separ- 
ately, straining  the  yolks,  and  adding  whites  the  last  thing.  If 
boiled  milk  is  used,  cook  in  custard  kettle,  and  let  it  cool  somewhat 
before  adding  eggs  ; be  sure  that  the  mixture  is  free  from  lumps  a 5 id 
when  fruit  is  added  stir  it  in  at  the  last.  Some  cooks  never  use 
either  soda  or  baking  powder  in  puddings,  beating  the  mixture  un- 
til so  light  none  is  needed.  Puddings  are  either  baked,  boiled  or 
steamed  ; Rice,  Bread,  Custard,  and  Fruit  puddings  require  a moder- 
ate heat ; Batter  and  Corn-starch,  a rather  quick  oven.  Always  bake 
them  as  soon  as  mixed.  Add  a pinch  of  salt  to  any  pudding  and 
use  rather  too  little  than  too  much  sugar  as  it  tends  to  make  the 
pudding  heavy,  and  the  sauce  can  be  made  sweeter  if  necessary. 


736 


PUDDINGS  AND  SAUCES. 


Boiled  puddings  are  lighter  when  boiled  in  a bag  and  allowed 
full  room  to  swell,  but  many  use  a buttered  tin  mold  or  bowl  with 
floured  cloth  tied  over  it ; do  not  fill  full,  and  in  boiling  do  not  let  water 
reach  quite  to  top,  keeping  it  boiling  all  the  time.  After  tying  cloth, 
bring  the  ends  back  together,  and  pin  them  over  the  top  of 
the  dish;  the  pudding  may  then' be  lifted  out  easily  by  a strong 
fork  put  through  the  ends  or  corners  of  the  cloth.  Padding 
Bags  are  either  knitted  or  made  of  firm  white  drilling,  tapering  from 
top  to  bottom,  and  rounded  on  corners  ; stitch  and  fell  seams,  which 
should  be  outside  when  in  use,  and  sew  a tape  to  seam,  about  three 
inches  from  top.  Wring  bag  out  of  hot  water,  flour  inside  well,  pour 
in -pudding  (which  should  be  well  beaten  the  instant  before  pour 
ing),  tie  securely,  leaving  room  to  swell,  (especially  when  made 
of  Indian  meal,  bread,  rice,  or  crackers),  generally  a space  equal 
to  one -third  the  bulk  of  the  pudding,  and  place  in  a kettle  with 
a saucer  at  the  bottom  to  prevent  burning ; immediately  pour 
in  enough  boiling  water  to  entirely  cover  bag,  which  must  be 
turned  several  times,  keeping  water  boiling,  filling  up  from  tea- 
kettle when  needed.  Open  bag  a little  to  let  steam  escape^ 
and  serve  immediately,  as  delay  ruins  all  boiled  puddings.  F or 
plum  puddings,  invert  the  pan  when  put  in  the  kettle,  and  the 
pudding  will  not  become  water-soaked.  When  the  pudding  is  done^ 
give  whatever  it  is  boiled  in  a quick  plunge  into  cold  water,  and 
turn  out  at  once,  serving  immediately.  As  a general  rule  boiled  pud- 
dings require  double  the  time  required  for  baked.  Pudding-cloths, 
however  coarse,  should  never  be  washed  with  soap,  but  in  clear, 
clean  water,  dried  as  quickly  as  possible,  and  kept  dry  and  out  of 
dust  in  a drawer  or  cupboard  free  from  smell.  Steaming  is  safer  and 
hetter  than  either  boiling  or  baking,  as  the  pudding  is  sure  to  be  light 
and  wholesome.  Prepare  the  pudding  mold,  etc.,  same  as  for  boiling, 
put  on  over  cold  water  and  do  not  remove  cover  while  steaming,  al- 
lowing a third  more  time  than  is  required  for  boiling.  After  the 
watei  begins  to  boil  do  not  let  it  stop  foiling  until  the  pudding  is 
done,  adding  foiling  water  from  the  tea-kettle  as  needed.  When  a 
patent  steamer  is  not  used,  to  add  water  v/ithout  removing  cover, 
lift  the  steamer  partially  off  from  kettle  and  turn  it  in  at  the  side. 
Serve  steamed  pudding  as  soon  as  done,  or  place  in  oven  a little 
while  to  dry  it  off  and  brown  if  wished.  Dates  are  an  excellent  sub- 


PUDDINGS  AND  SAUCES. 


737 


stitute  for  sugar  in  Graham  or  any  other  pudding.  The  flat-bot- 
tomed mold  used  for  baking  cakes  is  especially  nice  for 
baking  fruit  or  solid  puddings.  For  those  that  contain 
a quantity  of  milk  and  eggs,  it  is  better  to  place  the  dish 
in  oven,  in  dripping-pan,  half  full  of  hot  water,  as  they 
will  bake  more  slowly  and  without  any  danger  of  burn- 
ing. It  is  called  the  Water-hath^  and  one  must  allow  fifteen  or 
tiventy  minutes  longer  when  puddings  are  thus  baked.  It  is  also  a nice 
way  for  any  that  are  apt  to  stick  to  the  dish,  such  as  Indian,  Batter, 
etc.  For  baked  puddings  that  are  to  be  turned  out  to  serve,  sprink- 
ling the  bottom  and  sides  of  dish  or  mold,  after  greasing,with  bread- 
crumbs, prevents  them  from  sticking,  and  many  puddings  that  are 
commonly  baked  in  a crust,  such  as  Cocoa-nut,  Potato,  Apple,  and 
Lemon,  are  equally  as  good  and  more  wholesome  made  by  using 
bread-crumbs  as  above  to  the  usual  depth  of  crust ; pour  in  pudding, 
strew  another  layer  of  bread-crumbs  over  the  top,  and 
bake.  When  puddings  are  poured  into  mold  to  cool, 
always  wet  the  mold  before  filling.  Sweet  milk  can  be 
substituted  for  sour  and  vice  versa,  by  using  soda  with 
the  sour,  and  baking  powder,  or  cream  tartai  and  soda 
with  the  sweet,  and  milk  can  be  used  instead  of  cream  by  using  a 
tablespoon  or  two  of  butter  with  it.  The  souffle  dish  illustrated  on 
page  125  is  very  nice  for  puddings  which  are  to  be  served  in  dish 
in  which  they  are  baked.  Or  a Knitted  Cover  for  the  bottom,  may 
be  made  to  fit  an  ordinary  pudding  dish,  of  white  cotton  or  macreme 
cord,  in  any  fancy  stitch,  with  cord  and  balls  of  same,  or  any  color 
to  match  table  furniture,  to  tie  around  top  of  dish  and  hold  it  in 
place.  Puddings  are  often  garnished  with  bits  of  bright  jelly,  al- 
monds whole  or  sliced,  or  candied  fruits,  and  are  served  either 
moderately  warm  or  cold,  never  hot  except  souffles  and  such  as  are 
so  mentioned  in  recipes. 

In  making  Sauces^  do  not  boil  after  butter  is  added.  In  place 
of  wine  or  brandy,  flavor  with  the  juice  of  the  grape,  or  any  other 
fruit  juice  prepared  as  directed  in  Fruits.  The  Fruit  Flavors,  given 
in  Jellies,  are  also  nice,  or  use  orange  and  lemon  juice,  half  and 
half,  being  careful  to  add  lemon  juice  just  before  removing  from 
fire,  as  it  is  apt  to  growbitter  with  long  cooking.  When  using  corn- 
starch, stir  it  with  the  sugar  while  dry  and  no  lumps  will  form. 
The  sauce  may  be  served  either  poured  over  or  around  pudding,  or 


738 


PUDDINGS  AND  SAUCES. 


in  sauce-boat,  and  one  can  select  sauce  as  wished,  although  one  is 
named  with  almost  each  pudding,  and  serve  either  hot  or  cold. 


Fruit  Charlotte. — Boil  pint  and  a half  milk  or  cream  over  slow 
fire  and  stir  in  gradually  yolks  of  six  eggs  beaten  with  two  table- 
spoons arrowroot,  or  corn-starch;  cook  ten  minutes,  stirring  con- 
stantly that  it  may  be  perfectly  smooth.  Then  divide  mixture  by 
turning  half  into  another  saucepan  ; to  one  half  add  ten  tablespoons 
grated  chocolate,  four  of  fine  granulated  sugar,  simmer  a few  min- 
utes, take  otf  fire  and  set  away  to  cool.  Blanch  a dozen  bitter  ah 
monds  and  four  ounces  shelled  sweet  almonds  and  pound  in  mortar 
with  enough  rose-water  to  make  a smooth  paste,  add  an  ounce  finely 
chopped  citron,  cup  powdered  sugar,  and  stir  all  into  the  other  half 
of  cream  mixture,  simmer  a few  moments,  set  aside  to  cool  and  add 
vanilla  flavoring.  Cut  a large  sponge  cake  in  slices  crosswise  half 
an  inch  thick,  sj)read  one  slice  thickly^  with  the  chocolate  cream, 
putting  another  slice  on  top  of  this  and  cover  with  the  almond 
cream  ; do  this  alternately,  piling  them  evenly  on  a china  dish  till 
all  ingredients  are  used,  arranging  in  form  of  sponge  cake  before  it 
was  cut.  Have  ready  whites  of  six  eggs  whipped  to  a stiff  froth, 
mix  in  six  tablespoons  powdered  sugar,  and  with  a spoon  heap  this 
all  over  top  and  sides  of  cake,  then  sift  powdered  sugar  over  and 
brown  lightly  in  oven;  or  cover  with  Whipped  Cream.  Delicious. 

Apple  Dumplings. — Add  tw^o  cups  sour  milk,  one  teaspoon 
soda,  and  one  of  salt,  half  cup  of  butter  or  lard,  flour  enough  to  make 
dough  a little  stifier  than  for  biscuit ; or  make  a good  baking-pow- 
der crust ; peel  and  core  apples,  and  wash  them,  roll  out  crust  about 
quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  cut  out  circles  to  fit  apples,  place  latter  on 
dough,  fill  cavity  with  sugar,  and  some  add  a little  cinnamon,  nut- 
meg or  grated  lemon  rind,  encase  each  apple  in  the  crust,  wet  edges 
and  press  tightly  together,  (it  is  nice  to  tie  a cloth  around  each  one), 
put  into  kettle  of  boiling  water  slightly  salted,  boil  half  an  hour, 
taking  care  that  the  water  covers  the  dumplings.  Some  who  do  not 
tie  in  a cloth  roll  two  or  three  times  in  dry  flour.  They  are  also 
very  nice  steamed,  browned  in  oven  if  wished.  Serve  with  sugar 
and  cream  or  any  hot  sweet  sauce.  If  boiled  in  knitted  cloths 
dumplings  have  a very  pretty  appearance.  The  cloths  should  be 
made  square,  knit  in  plain  stitch  with  very  coarse  cotton  and  just 
large  enough  to  hold  one  dumpling.  For  Baked  Dumplings^  make 
in  same  way,  not  mixing  the  dough  so  stiff,  or  using  a Quaker  Paste, 
place  in  a shallow  buttered  pan,  without  touching  each  other,  prick 
the  top  with  a fork,  bake  in  a hot  oven,  turning  once  or  twice,  if 
necessary,  to  brown  evenly,  and  serve  with  cream  and  sugar  or  a 
Wolverine  Sauce  made  by  cooking  tart  apples  sliced,  until  soft 
mashing,  or  rubbing  through  puree  sieve  if  wished  ; sweetening  and 


PUDDINGS  AND  SAUCES. 


739 


flavoring  with  vanilla  or  a little  strawberry  or  raspberry  juice  (it  is 
nice  to  always  can  some  juice  to  have  for  flavoring  sauces).  A 
spoonful  or  two  of  whipped  cream,  or  beaten  white  of  an  egg  added 
just  before  serving  is  an  addition.  Any  fruit  may  be  used  in  dump- 
lings. Or,  place  in  pan  which  is  four  or  five  inches  deep  (do  not  have 
them  touch  each  other) ; then  pour  in  hot  water,  just  leaving  top  of 
dumplings  uncovered,  and  to  a pan  of  four  or  five  dumplings,  add 
one  cup  sugar  and  half  cup  butter ; bake  from  half  to  three-quarters 
of  an  hour.  If  water  cooks  away  too  much,  add  more.  Serve  dum{> 
lings  on  platter  and  the  liquid  in  sauce-boat  for  dressing.  They 
are  called  Buckeye  Bumplmgs  when  cooked  in  this  way  ; or  some 
put  them  in  dripping-pan  with  simply  hot  water  an  inch  deep,  or 
enough  to  almost  cover  the  dumplings  and  baste  occasionally  with 
the  hot  water.  Peach  Dumplings  maybe  made  any  of  above  ways 
with  either  fresh  or  canned  fruit.  For  Rolled  Apple  Dumplings^ 
peel  and  chop  tart  apples  fine,  make  a crust  of  one  cup  rich  butter- 
milk, teaspoon  soda,  and  flour  enough  to  roll ; roll  half  an  inch 
thick,  spread  v/ith  the  axqile,  sprinkle  well  with  sugar  and  cinna- 
mon, cut  in  strips  two  inches  wude,  roll  each  strip  up  like  jelly  cake 
and  place  the  rolls  in  a dripping-pan,  putting  a teaspoon  butter  on 
each;  put  in  moderate  oven,  and  bake,  basting  often  with  the  juice. 
Serve  with  Dip  Sauce. 

Currant  Dumplings. — Chop  fine  six  ounces  suet,  mix  it  with  a 
pound  flour,  and  add  half  pound  dried  currants,  which  should  be 
nicely  washed,  cleaned  and  dried;  mix  whole  to  a soft  paste  with 
half  pint  water  (if  wanted  very  nice,  use  milk) ; divide  into  seven 
or  eight  dumplings  ; tie  them  in  cloths  and  boil  for  an  hour  and  a 
quarter.  Or  make  into  round  balls  and  boil  without  a cloth,  drop- 
ping into  boiling  wuiter,  then  moving  about  at  first,  to  prevent  stick- 
ing to  bottom  of  pan.  Serve  with  Lemon  Sauce. 

Lemon  Dumplings. — For  half  dozen  dumplings  take  quarter 
pound  suet,  chopped  fine,  half  pound  bread  (about  half  ordinary 
loaf)  grated,  juice  and  grated  rind  of  one  lemon,  three  heaping  table-*^ 
spoons  sugar,  two  eggs,  beaten  slightly,  and  enough  milk  to  moisten 
all  ingredients  so  as  to  form  little  balls  or  dump« 
lings  with  the  hands;  have  ready  six  pieces 
cloth,  one  quarter  yard  square,  with  tapes  to  tie  ; 

dip  cloths  in  hot  water,  spread  on  talfle,  dust 

Lemon  Dumplings.  with  flour,  pluco  iu  u dumpliug,  tie,  leaving  a 
little  room  for  it  to  swell,  when  all  are  ready  put  in  large  pot  half 
full  of  boiling  water  and  boil  steadily  one  hour,  keeping  on  cover. 
Sprinkle  sugar  over  and  serve  with  Cream  or  Lemon  Sauce,  For 
Lemon  Apple  Dumplings^  add  to  above  one  large  greening  apple, 
chopped  fine ; or  a nice  dumpling  is  made  by  omitting  lemon,  and 
using  cup  chopped  apple. 


740 


PUDDINGS  AND  SAUCES. 


Baspherry  Dumplings. — Make  a stiff  Quaker  Paste,  pinch  off  a 
piece  and  roll  into  a circle  about  three  inches  in  diameter,  and  quar- 
ter of  an  inch  thick ; put  in  berries,  wet  edges  and  press  together  in 
turn-over  shape,  and  bake  like  Apple  Dumplings  in  a moderate  oven 
about  forty  minutes.  Some  use  the  Water-bath  as  described  in  pre- 
face. Serve  with  Lactiola  Sauce.  Any  Berry  or  Cherry  Dumplings 
made  same  way. 

Almond  Pudding. — Blanch  and  pound,  with  a little  rose-water, 
three  ounces  sweet  and  four  of  bitter  almonds  ; add  pint  miilk,  three 
tablespoons  sugar,  a little  ground  nutmeg,  tablespoon  flour  mixed 
smoothly  in  a little  cold  milk,  tablespoon  bread-crumbs,  two  well- 
l)eaten  eggs  and  whites  of  two  more  eggs  whisked  to  a froth ; pour 
mixture  into  buttered  mold,  cover,  and  boil  quickly  three-quarters 
of  an  hour ; let  it  stand  a few  minutes  before  turning  out  of  mold. 
Serve  with  Apricot  Sauce.  Or  for  an  Almond  SouMe,  blanch  and 
])Ound  six  ounces  sweet  almonds,  sprinkling  in  a little  orange  juice 
during  the  process,  and  let  come  to  a boil  in  a pint  and  a half  milk  ; 
stir  in  two  tablespoons  corn-starch,  first  mixed  smooth  with  a little 
cold  milk  and  cook  till  mixture  thickens ; take  from  fire  and  when 
slightly  cool  add  three  tablespoons  each  sugar  and  melted  butter, 
beaten  yolks  of  eight  eggs,  and  whipped  whites  last.  Bake  in  but- 
tered souffle  dish  half  an  hour,  sift  sugar  overtop  and  serve  at  once. 
Only  two-thirds  fill  dish  as  it  rises  very  much.  Almond  PuiFs  are 
nice  for  desert.  Blanch  and  pound  two  ounces  sweet  and  four  of 
hitter  almonds  in  mortar  to  smooth  paste,  melt  two  tablespoons 
butter,  dredge  in  four  of  flour,  add  four  of  sugar  and  the  pounded 
almonds.  Beat  mixture  well,  and  put  into  well-buttered  cups,  and 
bake  in  moderate  oven  about  twenty  minutes,  or  longer  should  the 
puffs  be  large.  Turn  on  dish  and  serve,])ottom  of  puffs  uppermost.  For 
Scalloped  Almonds de,w\j  light  biscuit  or  rolls  in  thin  slices,  line  a 
buttered  pudding  dish  with  them  ; pound  to  a paste  four  ounces 
shelled  and  blanched  almonds,  add  two  tablespoons  sugar,  teaspoon 
powdered  cinnamon  and  grated  peel  of  a lemon ; sprinkle  half  of 
this  mixture  over  the  slices,  then  add  another  layer  of  sliced  bis- 
cuit, cover  with  the  rest  of  mixture  and  a third  layer  of  biscuit,  dot- 
ting with  a few  bits  of  butter.  Mix  six  or  eight  well-beaten  eggs 
with  a quart  milk,  pour  in  the  dish  and  bake  in  moderate  oven. 
When  done,  loosen  bypassing  a knife  along  the  edges,  turn  on  a 
flat  dish  and  serve  with  Lemon  Sauce  poured  around  it;  or  reserve 
three  or  four  whites,  make  a meringue  and  when  pudding  is  done, 
spread  over  top,  brown  in  oven  and  serve  in  dish  in  which  it  was 
baked,  using  the  Knitted  Cover.  For  Cope  Atay  Pudding^  cover 
a dish  with  thin  paste,  and  put  over  this  a layer  of  any  kind  of  jam, 
half  an  inch  thick ; beat  yolks  of  five  eggs  with  white  of  one,  and 
add  cup  and  a half  sugar,  cup  melted  butter,  and  two  dozen  blanched 
and  pounded  almonds  ; beat  all  together  until  well  mixed,  then  pour 
in  dish  over  jam,  and  bake  an  hour  in  moderate  oven.  Make  a 


PUDDINGS  AND  SAUCES. 


741 


meringue  of  the  four  whites  of  eggs  and  put  over  top  when  done. 
Or  line  a dish  with  bread-crumbs,  put  in  the  layer  of  jam  ; then  beat 
four  eggs  with  four  tablespoons  sugar  and  stir  into  pint  milk  with 
three  tablespoons  butter  and  an  ounce  blanched  and  pounded  al- 
monds, pour  into  dish,  bake  as  above  and  serve  with  Arrowroot  Sauce. 

Apple  Pudding. — As  this  is  a standard  dish  we  give  a number 
of  the  most  excellent  recipes  from  which  housekeepers  can  make 
selections  according  to  taste  or  the  material  or  time  at  command. 
Brown  Betty  a very  quick  and  easily-made  pudding.  For  this 
put  a layer  mashed  and  sweetened  apple  sauce  in  buttered  dish,  add 
a few  lumps  of  butter,  then  a la3^er  of  cracker  or  bread-crumbs 
sprinkled  with  a little  cinnamon,  then  layer  of  sauce,  etc.,  making 
the  last  layer  of  crumbs  ; bake  in  oven,  and  eat  hot  with  cold,  sweet- 
ened cream.  Or  for  Sweedish  Apple  Pudding  sprinkle  sides  of 
buttered  dish  with  bread-crumbs  and  put  a laver  in  bottom,  upon 
this  drop  a little  melted  butter  and  then  put  a layer  of  dried  apple 
sauce,  or  fresh  fruit  may  be  used,  mashed  and  flavored  with  lemon 
extract  or  canned  raspberry  or  strawberry  juice,  dotting  the  layer 
with  raisins,  then  a laver  of  dessicated  cocoanut,  soaked  in  a little 
milk,  then  crumbs  and  so  on  till  dish  is  full,  with  crumbs  and  but- 
ter last ; bake  half  an  hour  and  serve  cold  with  Vanilla  Sauce  made 
by  beating  quarter-pint  each  cream  and  milk,  adding  a teaspoon 
corn-starch  made  smooth  in  a little  milk,  half  gill  sugar  and  flavor- 
ing with  vanilla ; when  almost  cold  stir  in  the  beaten  yolk  of  one 
egg  and  pour  around  the  pudding.  With  Rasphervief^^  use  fresh 
berries,  without  cooking,  instead  of  the  apple  sauce,  omitting  raisins 
and  cocoa-nut,  although  latter  is  very  nice  with  berries.  Some  cover 
either  pudding  with  a plate,  removing  just  before  it  is  done,  to 
brown  top  nicely.  Serve  hot  or  cold.  Equal  amount  crumbs  and 
fruit  may  be  used,  but  it  is  nicer  with  twice  as  much  fruit  as  crumbs. 
Any  fresh  or  dried  berries  of  any  kind  may  be  used,. first  cooking 
the  latter.  Thin  slices  of  bread,  buttered  on  both  sides,  may  be  sub- 
stituted for  the  crumbs,  with  uncooked  sliced  apples  sprinkled 
with  butter,  sugar  and  cinnamon  for  the  sauce  or  berries  ; putting  in 
layer  of  bread  first,  with  top  layer  apples,  or  the  buttered  bread  last, 
wflaen  it  ‘^liould  be  covered  with  a plate  as  above.  Apples  may  be 
flavored  with  grated  lemon  rind  or  nutmeg.  Bake  from  half  to 
three-quarters  of  an  hour.  Serve  with  sugar  and  cream,  or  any 
sauce  preferred  ; or  use  only  two  la\"ers  of  bread  and  butter,  one  at 
bottom  and  top  with  a])})les  between.  Make  Currant  Pudding 
same,  using  ripe  stewed  currants  instead  of  apples,  and  Blueberry 
Pudding  is  delicious  made  as  above,  first  stewing  the  fruit  or  not 
as  wished.  Any  berries  may  be  used  same.  Serve  cold.  For  an 
Apple  Cha,rlotte  Pudding,  stew  pound  cored,  pared  and  qu  rtered 
apples  with  half  pint  Avater,  cup  sugar  and  a little  lemon  extract  till 
they  Avill  mash.  Cut  biscuits  in  slices,  fry  them  in  butter  or  lard 
place  in  fruit  dish,  spread  AAuth  tlie  apples,  then  a layer  of  jelly  or 


742 


PUDDINGS  AND  SAUCES. 


jam,  then  another  layer  of  bread,  apples  and  jam  and  so  on,  apples 
on  top.  Make  it  an  hour  or  two  before  eating  and  put  whipped  cream 
on  top.  To  make  a Batter  Apple  Pudding^  peel  and  core  apples 
and  place  neatly  in  buttered  dish  in  which  to  be  served,  filling  core 
cavities  with  sugar  if  sour.  Make  batter  of  four  well-beaten  eggs, 
pint  rich  milk,  two  cups  flour,  teaspoon  salt  and  two  of  baking-pow- 
der. Beat  till  very  light,  pour  over  apples  and  bake  half  an  hour, 
or  steam  three-quarters  of  an  hour;  serve  hot  as  above.  For  a 
Boiled  Apjde  Pudding Au\q  dish  with  a good  baking-powder  or 
plain  suet  crust,  with  wdiich  an  egg  has  been  mixed,  fill  with  sliced 
Apples,  sprinkle  in  sugar  and  cinnamon  or  any  spice  liked,  tie  in  a 
floured  cloth,  put  in  boiling  water  and  boil  nearly  two  hours  ; or  it 
tnay  be  steamed.  Serve  with  Wolverine  Sauce.  For  Bird'^s- 
nest  Pudding^  pare  and  core  without  quartering,enough  quick-cook- 
ing, tart  apples  to  fill  |)udding  dish ; make  a custard  of  one  quart 
milk  and  yolks  of  three  or  four  eggs,  some  use  less  eggs,  adding 
tablespoon  corn-starch  for  each  egg  omitted  ; sweeten,  spice,  pour 
over  api)les,  and  bake ; when  done,  beat  the  whites  of  eggs  stiff 
with  tablespoon  white  sugar  to  each  egg;  spread  on  custard  or 
crown  each  nest  or  apple  wdth  a spoonful  of  meringue,  brown 
lightly,  and  serve  either  hot  or  cold.  If  necessary,  apples  may  be 
baked  a short  time  before  adding  custard,  and  if  wanted  very  nice, 
steam  the  apples,  put  in  buttered  dish,  till  core  cavities  with  jelly  or 
jam  or  sugar,  stoned  raisins  and  bits  of  butter  and  citron,  cover  each 
with  a slice  of  steamed  apple,  or  grate  over  the  rind  of  a lemon  and  a 
little  nutmeg ; pour  over  custard ; or  a richer  dressing  made  by 
creaming  a cup  butter  with  two  cups  sugar,  adding  eight  well-beaten 
eggs,  beating  all  together  with  a gill  of  milk  and  cooking  in  custard 
kettle  till  thick  as  boiled  custard  ; bake  and  finish  as  above.  Ilin- 
nefiaha  Pudding  is  a very  dainty  dessert.  To  pre])are,  peel,  core  and 
boil  apples  until  soft  enough  to  pulp  through  colander  ; sweeten  to 
taste,  add  a little  powdered  cinnamon,  put  in  deep  dish,  and  when 
quite  cold,  pour  a custard  made  of  yolks  of  three  or  four  eggs  and 
one  quart  of  milk,  sweetened  to  taste  over  it  and  bake  in  oven  fifteen 
or  twenty  minutes.  Whip  whites  of  eggs  adding  tablespoon  sugar 
to  each  egg  and  lay  it  daintily  in  small  pieces  on  custard  or  spread 
it  on  and  brown  in  oven.  Equally  good  hot  or  cold.  Or  omit  the 
milk  and  add  ^mlks  of  two  eggs  to  a pint  mashed  and  sweetened  ap- 
ple saime  ; put  in  buttered  dish,  bake  and  finish  as  above  ; or  if 
wished  richer  add  three  tablespoons  melted  butter,  gill  of  sifted 
bread-crumbs  and  two  more  eggs,  yolks  and  whites  beaten  separ- 
ately, bake  and  finish  with  meringue. 

Rice  Apples. — Boil  half  pound  rice  and  quart  milk  in  custard 
kettle  till  tender  ; sweeten  with  half  cup  sugar  ; pare  and  core  with  ap- 
ple-corer  seven  or  eight  good-cooking  apples,  place  in  slightly  but- 
tered baking  dish,  put  a teaspoon  jam  or  jelly  into  each  cavity,  and 
fill  with  rich  cream  ; put  the  rice  in  around  apples,  leaving  top  un- 


PUDDINGS  AND  SAUCES. 


743 


covered ; bake  thirty  minutes,  then  cover  with  w^hites  of  two  eggs, 
sift  on  sugar,  and  return  to  oven  for  ten  minutes.  Serve  with  Dip 
Sauce.  If  not  a quick-cooking  variety  the  apples  may  first  be 
steamed  till  half  cooked.  Some  stir  into  the  cooked  rice  the  ‘well- 
beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs,  four  tablespoons  butter,  a little  sugar,  a 
few  grated  almonds  or  little  vanilla  extract  and  lastly  the  well-frothed 
whites  ; then  finish  as  above.  Or  the  prepared  rice  and  jam  or  jelly 
may  be  put  in  dish  in  layers  with  the  a})ples,  which  must  first  bo 
stewed  and  pulped  through  sieve.  Sprinkle  top  with  sifted  bread- 
crumbs and  bake.  Tapioca  may  be  used  instead  of  rice.  To  make 
a Scottish  Pudding two  tablespoons  arrowroot  with  pint  cream  ; 
add  two  tablespoons  sugar,  put  in  stewpan  and  place  over  fire  until 
it  boils.  Put  in  dish  alternate  layers  of  thinly-sliced  apples,  sugar 
and  bits  of  butter;  when  two-thirds  full  put  in  a cup  jam  as  next 
layer,  and  over  all  pour  arrowroot  mixture.  Bake  in  moderate  oven 
twenty-five  minutes.  For  Bachelod s Pudding^  take  a cup  finely 
chopped  apples,  mixed  with  a cup  currants,  four  tablespoons  sugar, 
cup  sifted  bread-crumbs  and  three  well-beaten  eggs,  with  a few  drops 
of  lemon  extract  and  little  grated  nutmeg.  Beat  well  together,  put 
in  buttered  dish,  tie  down  with  a cloth  and  boil  or  steam  three 
hours.  Serve  with  Minnehaha  Sauce.  For  Danish  Pudding^  cook 
two  quarts  sliced  tart  apples  with  half  cup  water  till  tender ; stir 
in  two  tablespoons  butter  and  half  cup  sugar,  mixing  and  mashing 
thoroughly,  and  some  put  through  colander.  Put  this  as  the  bot- 
tom layer  in  dish  in  which  pudding  is  to  be  served ; then  put  in  fry- 
ing-pan two  and  a half  teaspoons  butter,  and  when  melted  add  one 
and  a half  cups  dry  bread-crumbs,  cup  sugar,  and  half  pound  al- 
monds (weighed  in  shell)  blanched  and  finely  chopped ; stir  con- 
stantly about  ten  minutes  or  till  well  mixed ; place  this  while  hot  as 
the  second  layer  in  the  dish  ; then  in  their  season  take  one  quart 
blackberries  and  half  cup  sugar  and  cook  to  a jam,  or  in  winter  use 
a jelly  glass  of  jam,  or  any  fruit  may  be  used,  and  spread  this  for  the 
third  layer.  All  this  can  be  prepared  the  day  before  using ; before 
serving  cover  with  a pint  cream  well  whipped,  sweetened  to  taste, 
and  flavored  with  vanilla.  This  fills  a two-quart  dish,  is  sufficient 
for  tw^elve  or  fourteen  persons,  and  is  a delicious  dessert.  The  layer 
of  fruit  may  be  omitted,  putting  in  alternate  layers  of  the  bread- 
crumb mixture  and  apples  with  the  former  on  bottom  and  top.  Or 
some  add  a flavoring  of  cinnamon  and  nutmeg  to  the  stewed  apples, 
then  make  a batter  of  yolks  of  six  eggs  well  beaten,  cup  and  a half 
sugar,  half  pound  blanched  and  grated  almonds,  and  the  well-beaten 
whites.  Butter  the  baking  dish,  put  the  apples  in  first,  then  a layer 
of  jelly  or  jam,  then  the  batter.  Bake  about  an  hour  and  cool. 
Serve  with  Whipped  Cream  Sauce. 

Arrovjroot  Pudding. — Mix  two  tablespoons  arrowroot  with  cup 
milk ; flavor  pint  and  a half  milk  as  liked,  put  overfire,  and  when  it 
boils  pour  it  on  the  arrowroot ; stir  well,  and  when  cool,  add  three 


744 


PUDDINGS  AND  SAUCES. 


well-beaten  eggs  and  tablespoon  each  sugar  and  orange  juice ; put 
in  well-buttered  mold,  cover,  and  steam  one  hour  and  a half;  turn 
out  on  a dish,  arrange  preserves  or  jam  neatly  around  it,  and 
serve.  Some  use  more  sugar,  and  bake  instead  of  steaming,  sprink- 
ling sugar  ovei  when  done  and  returning  to  oven  a few  minutes  to 
glaze.  Very  nice  served  cold.  Or  With  Fruit  a cup  cream 
and  one-quarter  cup  milk  over  boiling  water  ; mix  two  tablespoons 
arrowroot  smooth  in  four  tablespoons  milk,  add  five  tablespoons  sugar 
and  vanilla  flavoring ; when  the  cream  is  hot,  stirthis  in  and  cook  until 
thick  as  mush  ; stir  in  a cup  candied  fruit,  which,  if  larger  than  cher- 
ries, should  be  cut.  Pour  in  a mold.  When  cold,  turn  out  and  orna- 
ment with  whole  macaroons  ; they  adhere  easily  and  may  be  arranged 
as  fancied,  either  over  entire  mold  or  in  one  or  two  diagonal  rows 
across.  Serve  surrounded  with  Custard  or  Whipped  Cream  Sauce. 

Batter  Pudding. — Put  pint  and  a half  milk  on  to  heat,  reserv- 
ing enough  to  mix  four  tablespoons  flour  smooth  ; when  hot,  turn 
the  milk  over  the  flour  gradually,  stirring  to  avoid  lumps  and  add 
two  tablespoons  butter,  a little  salt  and  four  or  five  well-beaten  eggs, 
or  add  them  one  at  a time  and  any  flavoring  desired,  beat  all  thor- 
oughly, turn  into  buttered  dish,  or  cups  and  bake  from  a half  to 
three-quarters  of  an  hour.  Turn  out  and  serve  hot  wuth  any  sauce 
liked.  Or  the  pudding  may  be  boiled  if  a cloth  is  first  tied  round 
the  dish.  Excellent  served  with  orange  marmalade  or  other  pre- 
serves over  the  top,  passing  sugar  and  cream  with  it.  For  Batter 
Balls.,  drop  from  a spoon  and  fry  like  fritters ; drain,  sprinkle  with 
sugar  and  serve  at  once.  Or  any  fresh  or  dried  fruits  preferred  may 
be  stirred  in  just  before  cooking  in  any  of  above  ways.  Or  foV 
Steamed.  Batter  Pitdding.i^^e  half  cup  each  sugar,  and  butter,  three 
eggs,  one  cup  sweet  milk,  three  teaspoons  baking  powder,  two  cups 
flour,  steam  one  hour  and  serve  with  sauce.  Less  eggs  and  butter 
may  be  used ; and  With  Fruity  pour  the  batter  over  a pint  and  a 
half  stoned  cherries,  sliced  apples  or  peaches,  or  any  berries.  Some 
have  the  disli  of  fruit  in  steamer,  so  as  to  be  scalding  hot,  then  pour 
over  the  batter  and  steam  as  above.  Three  heaping  tablespoons 
corn  meal  are  nice  used,  then  only  taking  a heaping  cup  flour. 
Serve  with  Chocolate  Sauce.  Buttermilk  or  sour  milk  may  also  be 
used  with  level  teaspoon  soda  instead  of  baking  powder. 

Bread  Pudding. — This  is  one  of  the  most  common  of  puddings, 
a general  favorite,  and  the  recipes  given  are  so  varied  as  to  meet  the 
requirements  of  all.  For  a Plain  Pudding,  break  up  pieces  of  stale 
bread  into  bits,  and  pour  on  them  as_  much  boiling  water  as  will 
soak  them  well.  Let  stand  till  water  is  cool ; then  press  out,  and 
mash  bread  with  a fork  until  quite  free  from  lumps.  Measure  and 
to  every  quart  stir  in  half  teaspoon  salt,  teaspoon  nutmeg,  six  table- 
spoons^ sugar,  and  half  pound  currants;  mix  all  well  together,  and 
put  it  in  well-buttered  baking  dish.  Smooth  surface  with  back  of 


PUBDTNGS  AN©  SAUCES. 


745 


spoon,  and  put  a tablespoon  and  a half  butter  in  small  bits  over  top  ; 
bake  in  moderate  oven  one  hour  and  a half,  and  serve  very  hot  with 
Maple  Sugar  Sauce.  Boiling  milk  instead  of  water  very  much  im- 
proves the  pudding.  A Monday  Pudding  is  hardly  a pudding  at 
all  but  does  very  well  for  a hastily  prepared  dessert.  Cut  crust  from 
loaf  of  bread,  fold  latter  in  a napkin  and  steam  Bventy  minutes  ; or 
cut  bread  in  even  slices,  steam  half  an  hour  and  serve  with  Every- 
day Sauce.  Or  the  bread  may  be  buttered  and  spread  with  preserves 
or  jelly,  then  steamed.  For  a Layer  Pudding^  put  slices  of  bread 
prepared  thus  in  layers  in  baking  dish  and  pour  over  half  the  Boiled 
Custard  given  on  page  119.  Or  put  currants  with  nutmeg  seasoning 
between  the  layers  of  buttered  bread.  Some  first  line  the  dish  or 
mold  with  raisins,  then  fill  with  the  bread  and  butter,  pour  the  cus- 
tard over  as  above  and  steam  half  an  hour;  or  tie  a floured  cloth 
over  and  boil.  Serve  hot  with  any  sauce  liked.  Or,  halve  the  rais- 
ins and  place  around  the  mold  in  rows,  diamonds  or  circles ; they 
will  easily  adhere  if  the  mold  is  well  buttered  ; make  half  as  much 
custard  as  above,  using  two  eggs,  into  which  stir  a pint  bread-crumbs 
and  half  cup  chopped  raisins,  put  into  prepared  mold  and  steam  an 
hour.  Turn  out  and  eat  with  any  sauce.  For  the  regular  Bread 
Pudding^  take  quart  each  sweet  milk  and  bread-crumbs,  four  eggs, 
four  tablespoons  sugar ; soak  bread  in  half  the  milk  until  soft ; 
mash  fine,  add  rest  of  milk,  the  well-beaten  eggs  and  sugar,  and 
tablespoon  butter  if  wanted  richer  ; bake  one  hour,  serve  warm  with 
any  hot  sauce  or  Maple  Sugar  Hard  Sauce.  Some  first  boil  the 
milk  with  two  ounces  candied  lemon  peel  and  six  bitter  almonds  to 
obtain  the  flavor,  or  flavor  with  nutmeg,  then  pour  it  over  the  crumbs. 
Bake  in  either  a deep  pudding  dish  or  custard  cups.  A cup  raisins 
or  currants  are  added  when  liked  ; and  cracker-crumbs  may  be  used 
instead  of  bread ; or  With  Cherries^  add  quart  stoned  cherries,  us- 
ing only  bread-crumbs  and  serve  with  Cherry  Sauce ; or  With 
Peaches  add  pint  canned  peaches,  mashed,  instead  of  cherries. 
Steam  an  hour  and  a half.  For  a more  elaborate  Fruit  Pudding^ 
soak  a pint  bread-crumbs  in  half  pint  milk  fifteen  minutes,  add  two 
tablespoons  butter,  melted,  half  cup  sugar,  beaten  yolks  of  four 
eggs,  teaspoon  cinnamon,  half  teaspoon  cloves,  grated  rind  of  one 
lemon,  two  ounces  sliced  citron  and  quarter  pound  each  currants 
and  stoned  raisins,  with  whipped  whites  of  eggs  beaten  in  last. 
Bake  in  buttered  mold  or  cups,  set  in  pan  of  hot  water  and  when 
ready  to  serve  turn  out,  sift  powdered  sugar  over  and  send  on  with 
very  hot  sauce.  Sufficient  for  ten  persons.  Some  use  quarter 
pound  finely  chopped  suet  instead  of  butter,  and  three  ounces 
blanched  and  chopped  almonds,  or  same  quantity  chopped  figs. 
Steam  or  boil  three  or  four  hours.  Or  make  Florentine  Pudding 
by  omitting  the  milk,  spices  and  all  fruit  except  the  raisins,  adding 
half  pint  chopped  sour  apples  and  half  cup  more  sugar.  Serve  with 
Raspberry  Sauce.'  Gooseberry  Pudding  is  made  as  Florentine 


746 


PUDDINGS  AND  SAUCES. 


Pudding,  omitting  the  raisins  and  apples  and  using  a quart  stewed 
and  sweetened  gooseberries.  Bake  half  an  hour  in  buttered  mold, 
turn  out,  dust  powdered  sugar  over  and  serve  hot  with  Custard  or 
Every-day  Sauce.  For  Brown  Bread  Pudding^  omit  the  apples  in 
Florentine  Pudding  and  use  crumbs  of  brown  bread  instead  of 
white,  and  currants  instead  of  raisins,  if  preferred.  Boil  or  steam 
three  hours.  The  Queen  of  Puddings  is  a very  nice  dessert : Mix 
together  pint  sifted  bread-crumbs,  quart  milk,  cup  sugar,  yolks  of 
four  eggs,  butter  size  of  an  egg  and  some  add  grated  rind  of  lemon  ; 
bake  until  done — but  do  not  allow  to  become  watery — and  spread 
with  a layer  of  jelly.  Whip  whites  of  eggs  to  a stiff  froth  v/ith  five 
tablespoons  sugar,  and  juice  of  one  lemon,  spread  on  top  and  brown. 
Serve  with  Hard  Sauce,  or  it  is  often  eaten  without  any  sauce,  and 
very  good  cold.  For  Cocoa-nut  Pudding^  soak  half  cup  dessicated 
cocoa-nut  in  boiling  hot  milk  half  an  hour  or  more,  and  add  to  above, 
baking  and  finishing  same.  For  Orange  Pudding  add  a half  dozen 
grated  oranges  and  serve  with  Strawberry  Sauce. 

Broum  Pudding . — Cream  quarter  cup  each  butter  and  brown 
sugar,  add  three  well-beaten  eggs,  quarter  cup  sweet  milk,  half  pint 
molasses  with  half  teaspoon  soda  stirred  in,  one  and  one-half  cups 
flour,  half  teaspoon  each  cinnamon  and  cloves.  Bake  or  steam  in 
buttered  dish  one  hour.  Serve  with  Jelly  Sauce.  Make  a Black- 
loerry  or  Blueherry  Pudding  by  adding  to  above  another  cup  flour 
and  quart  fresh  berries.  Or  mix  a cup  white  sugar  with  the 
berries,  add  five  well-beaten  eggs  and  stir  in  one  and  one-half  pints 
each  milk  and  sifted  flour.  Bake  in  buttered  dish  and  serve  with 
Dip  or  Fruit  Sauce. 

Cabinet  Pudding. — Take  a sheet  of  sponge  cake  and  half  pound 
French  candied  fruit  (apricot,  pear,  cherries,  a lime),  and  ounce 
citron  ; cut  citron  in  shape  of  leaves.  Butter  tin  mold  thickly  with 
cold  butter,  press  the  fruit  in  any  pretty  designs  on  bottom  and 
sides  of  mold,  using  large  fruits  for  centers  and  citron  leaves  around. 
'Cut  sponge  cake  to  fit  bottom  of  mold,  place  over 
fruit,  and  also  line  sides  with  the  cake,  then  put 
in  some  more  of  the  fruit  (cherries),  then  another 
laj^er  of  cake,  tiien  fruit,  etc.,  with  last  layer  of  cabinet  Pudding 
cake,  pressing  cake  firmly  in  mold.  Make  custard  of  pint  milk,  six 
eggs  and  quarter  pound  sugar.  Put  custard  in  pitcher  and  pour 
slowly  in  the  mold,  letting  part  of  custard  entirely  absorb  before 
adding  the  rest,  and  some  let  stand  an  hour  or  so  before  steaming ; 
place  mold  in  steamer  or  in  saucepan  two-thirds  full  of  water  and 
steam  till  firm,  about  an  hour  and  a half.  To  test,  run  a fork  or 
small  knife  down  through  thickest  part,  if  any  liquid  appears  must 
cook  longer.  When  done,  turn  out  of  mold,  and  serve  with  powdered 
sugar.  Lady  Fingers  may  be  used  to  line  the  mold,  placing  them 
around  perpendicularly  with  flat  sides  against  the  mold.  To  make 


PUDDINGS  AND  SAUCES. 


747 


a plainer  pudding,  use  cup  raisins,  cup  and  a half  currants  and  third 
of  a cup  citron  instead  of  French  fruits,  and  bread  may  also  be  used 
instead  of  cake.  Serve  with  Lemon  Sauce. 

Cake  Pudding. — Put  slices  of  stale  cake  in  saucers  and  turn 
over  them  a hot  Every-day  Sauce,  or  any  other  preferred  ; prepare 
long  enough  before  wanted,  to  serve  thoroughly  cold.  Or  steam 
slices  of  stale  fruit.cake  and  serve  with  hot  sauce.  Or  put  slices  of 
any  stale  cake  in  layers  in  pudding  dish  with  stewed  or  preserved 
fruit  between,  with  cake  for  top  layer,  pour  sweetened  cream  over, 
cover  with  a meringue,  brown  with  salamander,  or  in  hot  oven,  and 
serve  cold.  Or  partly  fill  a pudding  dish  with  slices  of  stale  cake, 
pour  over  half  the  Boiled  Custard  given  on  page  119,  while  hot,  so 
that  it  will  soak  through  and  soften  the  cake,  and  set  away  to  cool. 
Before  serving  spread  a meringue  over  the  top.  Peach  Pudding 
may  be  made  same  way,  using  canned  peaches  instead  of  cake.  For 
a more  elaborate  pudding  pour  the  custard  over  slices  of  cake  laid 
in  shallow  dish  and  when  cold  put  a layer  in  bottom  of  quart  mold 
or  two  pint  molds,  have  ready  two  ounces  blanched  and  chopped 
edmonds,  or  any  other  nuts  preferred  and  a half  pint  preserved 
fruit,  drained;  put  in  a sprinkling  of  the  chopped  nuts,  then  bits  oi 
fruit,  another  layer  of  cake  and  so  on  till  all  ingredients  are  used, 
covering  with  cake.  Pack  in  ice  an  hour,  turn  out  of  mold  and  serve. 

Carrot  Pudding. — One  pound  grated  carrots,  three-fourths 
pound  chopped  suet,  half  pound  each  raisins  and  currants,  four 
tablespoons  sugar,  eight  of  flour,  and  spices  to  taste.  Or  boil  three- 
quarters  pound  carrots  and  mash  to  a pulp  ; add  half  pound  bread- 
crumbs, four  ounces  chopped  suet,  quarter  pound  each  stoned 
raisins  and  currants,  six  tablespoons  sugar,  three  well-beaten  eggs 
and  sufficient  milk  to  make  a thick  batter.  Steam  four  hours, 
place  in  oven  twenty  minutes  and  serve  with  Jelly  or  Lemon  Sauce. 

Cerealine  Pudding. — Beat  four  eggs  and  six  tablespoons  sugar 
well,  as  for  sponge  cake.  Add  half  a grated  nutmeg,  half  teaspoon 
each  lemon  extract  and  baking  powder,  two  ounces  each  cerealine 
and  flour.  Put  in  well-buttered  mold  and  steam  half  an  hour.  Serve 
with  Vinegar  Sauce. 

Chocolate  Pudding. — One  quart  sweet  milk,  three  ounces  grated 
chocolate,  eup  sugar,  yolks  of  five  eggs ; scald  milk  and  chocolate 
together.when  cool  add  sugar  and  eggs,  and  bake.  When  done,  spread 
beaten  whites  and  f ve  tablespoons  sugar  on  top,  and  set  in  oven  to 
brown.  Or,  boil  one  pint  milk,  add  half  cup  each  butter  and  sugar, 
and  three  ounces  grated  chocolate;  pour  this  over  two  slices  of 
bread  soaked  in  water;  wlien  cool,  add  well-beaten  yolks  of  four 
eggs,  bake,  and  when  done,  spread  over  the  whites  beaten  with 
sugar,  and  brown  in  oven.  Serve  hot  or  cold.  For  a very  rich  pud- 
ding beat  quarter  pound  each  butter  and  sugar  to  a cream,  add 


748 


PUDDINGS  AND  SAUCES. 


gradually  yolks  of  eight  eggs,  one  at  a time,  adding  alternately 
quarter  pound  shelled  and  chopped  almonds,  not  blanched,  and 
quarter  pound  grated  chocolate  ; when  all  are  well  mixed  add  beaten 
whites  of  eggs,  some  ground  cloves  and  cinnamon;  butter  and 
sprinkle  molds  with  sugar,  pour  in  pudding,  steam,  and  when  cold 
serve  with  Chocolate  Sauce.  Or  With  Fruity  line  the  bottom  of  a 
mold  with  sponge  cake  cut  in  slices  about  half  an  inch  thick,  first 
soaked  in  lemon  and  orange  juice,  half  and  half;  or  any  fruit  juice, 
cover  with  a layer  of  fruit  using  raisins,  currants,  preserved  or  can- 
died fruits,  as  liked,  then  cake,  and  so  on  till  within  an  inch  of  top 
with  fruit  last.  Leave  half  inch  space  between  cake  and  sides  of 
mold.  Add  slowly  a cold  Chocolate  Custard,  page  120,  with  half 
ounce  gelatine  dissolved,  in  place  of  corn-starch,  using  sufficient 
custard  to  till  the  mold ; cover,  bind  and  imbed  in  ice  an_d  salt,  as 
directed  in  Ice-cream,  for  half  a day  ; take  from  mold  and  serve  sur- 
rounded with  Whipped  Cream  Sauce. 

Citron  Pudding. — Sift  two  tablespoons  flour  and  mix  with 
Deaten  yolks  of  six  eggs ; add  gradually  pint  sweet  cream,  quarter 
pound  citron  cut  in  small  strips,  and  two  tablespoons  sugar ; mix 
thoroughly,  pour  batter  into  buttered  dish  and  bake  twenty-five 
minutes.  Serve  with  Egg  or  Queen  Sauce. 

Cocoa-nut  Pudding. — Pour  one  and  one-half  pints  boiling  milk 
over  one  pint  bread-crumbs  undone  cup  dessicated  cocoa-nut  mixed ; 
add  two  tablespoons  sugar  and  nutmeg  to  flavor  and  bake.  Or  grate 
one  cocoa-nut,  saving  the  milk  if  perfectly  sweet,  boil  a quart  of 
milk  and  pour  upon  it,  adding  five  eggs  beaten  with  cup  sugar  and 
tablespoon  butter,  with  a little  salt,  two  teaspoons  vanilla  extract, 
milk  from  nut,  and  bake  in  pudding  dish  lined  with  rich  paste.  Or 
omit  the  paste  and  add  quart  bread-crumbs  scalded  with  the  milk, 
or  as  much  cold  boiled  rice  as  cocoa-nut,  though  some  use  corn-starch 
instead  of  the  crumbs  or  rice.  Make  Avith  dessicated  cocoa-nut  in 
same  way,  using  half  pint.  This  is  excellent  baked  like  pie  Avith 
under  crust  only. 

Corn-Starch  Pudding. — One  pint  SAveet  milk,  Avhites  of  three 
eggs,  t\AU)  tablespoons  corn-starch,  three  of  sugar,  and  a little  salt. 
Put  milk  in  custard  kettle,  and  Avhen  it  .reaches  boiling  point  add 
sugar,  then  starch  dissolved  in  a little  cold  milk,  and  lastly  the 
Avhites  of  eggs  Avhipped  to  a stiff  froth  ; beat,  and  let  cook  a feAv  min- 
utes, then  pour  into  cups,  filling  about  half  full,  and  set  in  cool 
place.  For  sauce,  make  a boiled  custard  as  folloAvs  : Bring  to  hoik 
ing  point  one  pint  milk,  add  three  tablespoons  sugar,  then  beaten 
yolks  thinned  by  adding  one  tablespoon  milk,  stirring  all  the  time 
till  it  thickens  ; flaAmr  Avith  two  teaspoons  lemon  or  \mnilla,  and  let 
cook  Serve  one  mold  for  each  person,  pouring 
over  it  some  of  the  boiled  custard.  Or  the  pud- 
ing  may  be  made  in  one  large  mold,  d To  make  a 
Chocolate  Pudding,  flavor  the  aboA^e''  pudding 


Corn-Starch  Puddiuj 


PUDDINGS  AND  SAUCES. 


749 


with  vanilla,  remove  two-thirds  of  it,  and  add  half  cake  chocolate 
softened,  mashed,  and  dissolved  in  a little  milk.  Put  a layer  of 
half  the  white  pudding  into  the  mold,  then  the  chocolate,  then  the 
rest  of  the  white ; or  two  layers  of  chocolate  may  he  used  with  a 
white  between  ; or  the  center  may  be  cocoa-nut  made  by  adding  half 
a cocoa-nut  grated  fine  to  the  white  part ; or  add  a pine-apple  chop- 
ped fine;  or  a cup  straivberries.  Serve  with  Pine- Apple  Sauce. 
For  Easter  Pudding.,  make  a corn-starch  mixture  as  above,  using 
yolks  of  eggs  instead  of  whites,  and  turn  out  in  broad  dish  to  cool. 
When  it  stiffens  around  the  edges,  transfer  it,  a few  spoonfuls  at  a 
time,  to  a bowl,  and  whip  vigorously 
with  an  egg  beater.  Flavor  with  rose- 
w^ater.  It  should  be  like  a yellow 
sponge  when  put  into  a crown  mold. 

Make  da}^  before  wanted.  When  ready 
to  serve  turn  out  upon  dish,  fill  center 
with  whipped  cream,  flavored  with  va- 
nilla and  heaped  up  as  high  as  it  will  ruuuI,i^. 

stand.  Pile  more  whipped  cream  about  the  base.  Or  Wdth  Fruit., 
while  the  corn-starch  mixture  is  still  hot  put  a little  in  a large  mold 
and  turn  to  let  it  run  and  leave  a thin  coating  all  over  inside.  Orna- 
ment by  sticking  candied  cherries  to  this  in  any  regular  forms  liked, 
fill  loosely  with  fresh  or  preserved  fruits,  macaroons  and  crumbed 
sponge  cake,  soaked  in  orange  juice,  and  a little  citron  cut  very 
thin  ; then  pour  in  slowly  until  full  remainder  of  corn-starch,  which 
must  have  been  kept  warm  by  standing  in  hot  water  so  that  it  would 
not  stiffen.  Let  stand  in  cold  place  all  night  to  become  very  firm 
and  serve  with  Marigold  Sauce. 

Cottage  Pudding. — Cup  each  sugar  and  sweet  milk,  three  of 
flour,  half  cup  butter,  one  egg,  teaspoon  soda  dissolved  in  milk,  two 
teaspoons  cream  tartar  in  flour,  half  teaspoon  extract 
lemon.  Sprinkle  a little  sugar  over  top  just  before  put- 
ting  in  oven ; bake  in  fluted  cake  pan  or  small  bread 
pan,  and  serve  with  Every-day  Sauce.  What  is  left  of  the  pudding 
and  sauce  may  be  served  cold  for  tea. 

CracJced-  ^PJieat  Pudding. — Cook  cracked  wheat  enough  for  two 
meals ; stir  in,  a few  minutes  before  taking  up,  raisins,  dates,  or  any 
dried  fruit ; serve  half  for  dessert  and  next  day  prepare  a Boiled 
Custard,  stir  it  thoroughl}^  through  the  remainder  and  bake  just 
long  enough  to  cook  the  custard. 

Cream  Pudding. — Stir  together  pint  cream,  six  tablespoons 
sugar,  yolks  of  three  eggs,  and  a little  grated  nutmeg ; add  the  well- 
beaten  w^hites,  stirring  lightly,  and  pour  into  buttered  pie  pan  on 
which  has  been  sprinkled  the  crumbs  of  stale  bread  to  thickness  of 
an  ordinary  crust ; sprinkle  over  the  top  a layer  of  bread-crumbs  and 


750 


PUDDINGS  AND  SAUCES. 


bake.  For  Perfection  Cream  Pudding^  sift  one  tumbler  flour  three 
times  add  two  tablespoons  baking  powder  and  sift  again.  Sift  the 
sugar  and  measure  it,  taking  one  and  a half  tumblers.  Beat  white 
of  eleven  eggs  to  a stiff’ froth  ; add  sugar  lightly,  then  flour.  Bake 
in  two  jelly  pans ; when  cold,  whip  one  pint  thick  sweet  cream, 
sweeten,  aud  flavor  with  vanilla;  put  between  the  layers,  heap  well 
upon  the  top  and  serve  surrounded  with  whipped  cream.  This 
makes  a nice  Cream  Cake  by  not  surrounding  with  cream. 

Curate’s  Pudding. — Beat  yolks  of  two  eggs  with  four  table- 
spoons flour  and  tablespoon  milk  ; set  half  pint  milk,  less  the  table- 
spoon, over  the  fire  with  four  tablespoons  sugar  and  two  tablespoons 
butter ; heat,  but  do  not  boil,  and  add  to  the  beaten  flour  and  eggs, 
also  the  whites  of  eggs  beaten  very  light.  Mix  thoroughly  and  pour 
into  four  saucers,  buttered  and  heated.  Bake  twenty  minutes  in 
hot  oven,  and  when  done  a light  brown  place  two  of  them  on  a dish, 
tops  down,  spread  with  plum  or  other  jam,  place  the  other  two  on  top 
with  the  under  side  down  and  serve  at  once.  Or  each  may  be  split  and 
spread  with  jam,  then  put  together  again. 

Delmonico  Pudding. — A quart  milk,  three  tablespoons  corn- 
starch dissolved  in  cold  milk,  well-beaten  yolks  of  five  eggs,  six 
tablespoons  sugar.  Boil  three  or  four  minutes,  pour  in  pudding 
dish  and  bake  about  half  an  hour  ; cover  with  a meringue  and  brown 
delicately  in  oven.  For  Peach  Puddino^  place  a layer  of  canned 
peaches  over  top  of  above,  when  baked,  adding  syrup  to  custard 
when  making,  using  less  milk.  Cover  with  the  meringue  as  above. 

Dixie  Pudding. — Slice  light  bread,  trim  off  crusts  and  cut  in 
pieces  about  two  inches  square ; remove  seeds  from  greengage 
plums,  make  very  sweet  and  place  on  the  bread  squares.  Just  be- 
fore serving,  place  squares  in  a dessert  dish  and  cover  each  with 
whipped  cream,  sweetened  and  flavored  with  vanilla.  A very  showy, 
excellent  dish  and  when  sponge  cake  squares  are  used  in  place  of 
bread,  very  elegant  and  delicious. 

Estelle  Pudding. — Three  eggs,  well  beaten,  two  and  a half 
tablespoons  sugar,  two  of  butter,  three-fourths  cup  sweet  milk,  one 
of  raisins  chopped  fine,  one  full  teaspoon  baking  powder  and  three 
gills  flour ; steam  thirty-five  minutes,  browning  in  oven  if  wished, 
and  serve  with  Cold  Cream  Sauce. 

Fig  Pudding. — Half  pound  figs,  half  pint  dry  bread-crumbs, 
five  tablespoons  powdered  sugar,  three  tablespoons  butter,  two  eggs, 
cup  milk ; chop  figs  fine  and  mix  with  butter,  and  by  degrees  add 
the  other  ingredients ; butter  and  sprinkle  a mold  with  bread- 
crumbs, pour  in  pudding,  cover  closely,  and  boil  three  hours  ; serve 
with  Lemon  Sauce.  A gill  chopped  suet  may  be  used  instead  of 
butter.  Make  a Date  Pudding  same,  using  chopped  dates  instead 
of  figs.  Either  may  be  steamed  or  baked. 


PUDDINGS  AND  SAUCES. 


751 


Fruit  Pudding. — Stew  currants  or  any  small  fruits,  fresh  or 
dried,  with  sugar  to  taste,  and  pour  hot  over  thin  slices  of  baker’s 
bread  with  crust  cut  off,  making  alternate  layers  of  fruit  and  bread, 
and  leaving  a thick  layer  of  fruit  for  the  last.  Put  a plate  on  top, 
and  when  cool  set  on  ice ; serve  with  sifted  sugar,  or  cream  and 
sugar.  This  pudding  is  delicious  made  with  Boston  or  milk  crack- 
ers, split  open,  and  stewed  apricots  or  peaches,  with  plenty  of  juice, 
arranged  as  above.  Or  another  way  is  to  toast  and  butter  slices  of 
bread,  pour  over  it  hot  stewed  fruit  in  alternate  layers,  and  serve 
warm  with  Caramel  Sauce.  Or  drop  small  light  dumplings  into  the 
hot  stcAved  fruit  and  cook  until  dumplings  are  done,  taking  care  not 
to  scorch.  Serve  with  sugar  and  cream.  For  2^  Dried  Apple  Pud- 
ding., take  one  cup  each  dried  apples  and  molasses,  one  and  one- 
fourth  cups  flour,  fourth  cup  butter,  one  egg,  teaspoon  each  soda  and 
cinnamon,  half  teaspoon  cloves  ; wash  and  soak  apples  over  night, 
cut  fine  and  mix  with  water  in  which  they  were  soaked,  add  molas- 
ses and  spice ; mix  egg,  butter  and  flour  together ; stir  soda  with 
apples  and  molasses ; add  and  bake  immediately ; serve  hot  with 
Hard  Sauce.  Or,  soak  two  cups  dried  apples  overnight.  In  morn- 
ing chop  fine  and  boil  with  cup  cooking  molasses  until  like  citron. 
Then  add  coffee  cup  sugar,  cup  butter,  four  eggs,  teaspoon  each  of 
all  kinds  of  spices,  four  cups  flour,  cup  sour  milk,  and  teaspoon 
soda.  Bake  in  cake  tins,  and  serve  with  sauce.  When  cold,  it  can 
be  steamed  and  is  as  nice  as  when  freshly  made.  For  a Steamed 
Cherry  Pudding  make  a good  baking-powder  paste,  roll  out  and 
line  bottom  of  baking  dish  ; then  put  in  a layer  of  fresh,  stoned  cher- 
ries, or  of  the  stewed  dried  fruit,  cover  with  another  layer  of  paste, 
then  cherries,  and  paste  on  top.  Steam  two  hours  and  serve  with 
Hip  or  Hard  Sauce.  An}^  fruit  may  be  used.  A Dried  Peach  Pud- 
ding is  made  as  follows : Chop  pint  dried  peaches  and  three- 
fourths  pint  beef  suet  and  mix  with  three-fourths  pound  flour  and 
teaspoon  salt ; add  water  to  make  dough  that  can  be  easily  stirred 
with  a spoon,  tie  in  a cloth,  leaving  room  to  swell  and  steam  or  boil 
three  or  four  hours.  Serve  with  Jelly  Sauce.  For  Fruit  Blanc- 
mange. take  pure  juice  if  the  fruit  is  fresh  or  canned  ; if  preserved 
or  jellied,  or  any  fruit  shrub,  reduce  with  water  to  a pleasant  flavor. 
Sweeten  the  fresh  juice  and  the  others  if  needed;  to  a pint  of  this 
when  boiling  add  two  rounded  tablespoons  corn-starch,  mixed 
smoothly  in  a little  cold  water.  Boil  a minute  or  two,  stirring  all  the 
time,  and  pour  in  dish  to  cool,  making  a jelly,  not  quite  so  firm  as 
blanc-mange.  When  cold  cover  with  whipped  cream ; some  first 
stick  the  top  thickly  with  lengthwise  slices  of  blauched  almonds, 
and  the  whipped  cream  may  be  omitted,  serving  with  sweetened 
cream.  This  is  a delicious  dessert  very  easily  made,  and  so  little 
juice  is  necessary.  It  can  be  cooled  in  any  dish,  then  placed  in  a 
glass  or  china  fruit  dish  to  serve.  Rice  flour  may  be  used  instead 
of  corn-starch  and  some  first  boil  a little  stick  cinnamon  and  lemon 
peel  in  the  juice. 


752 


PUDDINGS  AND  SAUCES. 


Gingerbread  Pudding. — Crumble  a half  pound  stale  ginger- 
bread into  bowl  and  mix  with  half  pound  flour  and  stir  in  one  table- 
spoon each  molasses  and  sugar,  tAvo  ounces  blanched  and  pounded 
almonds ; mix  half  pint  milk  and  a well-beaten  egg  together  and 
add ; mix  thoroughly,  put  in  buttered  dish  and  boil  or  steam  tAvo 
hours  and  a half. 

Graham  Pudding. — Mix  together  half  cup  molasses,  quarter 
cup  butter,  one  well-beaten  egg,  half  cup  milk,  half  teaspoon  soda, 
two  cups  Graham  flour,  one  cup  raisins,  and  spices  to  taste.  Steam 
three  hours.  A half  cup  dried  currants  or  sliced  citron  may  be 
added,  with  half  cup  more  milk,  using  either  sweet  or  sour,  and  part 
cream  makes  it  much  nicer;  flour  the  fruit  and  add  last.  Or  use 
gill  sugar  instead  of  molasses,  melting  it  up  in  a little  boiling  water 
if  wished,  and  sweet  cream  or  milk  with  baking  powder.  Serve  with 
Foaming  Sauce. 

Half-hour  Pudding. — Beat  four  tablespoons  butter  to  a cream 
with  half  pint  powdered  sugar;  add  yolks  of  three  I eggs,  beating 
them  in  thoroughly,  then  rounded  half-pint  corn  meal,  and  whites 
of  eggs  beaten  to  stiff  froth.  Mix  well,  and  bake  in  buttered  pud- 
ding dish.  Serve  with  Orange  Sauce. 

Indian  Pudding. — A quart  sweet  milk,  tablespoon  butter,  four 
well-beaten  eggs,  cup  corn  meal,  half  pound  raisins,  quarter  pound 
sugar ; scald  milk  and  stir  in  meal  while  boiling ; let  stand  until 
blood  warm,  add  other  ingredients  and  stir  all  well  together ; bake 
one  and  a half  hours,  and  serve  with  Vinegar  Sauce.  Or  for  Egg- 
less Indian  Pudding.,  scald  quart  sw^eet  milk  and  stir  into  it  five 
rounded  tablespoons  corn  meal,  cup  brown  sugar  or  five  tablespoons 
molasses,  teaspoon  ginger,  and  a little  salt  ^ bake  in  moderate  oven 
and  in  half  an  hour  stir  in  cup  cold  rich  milk ; bake  two  hours. 
Much  improved  by  adding  cup  raisins  with  the  cold  milk.  Serve 
with  cream  or  Plain  Sauce.  Or  when  mush  is  left  over  take  one 
quart  cold  mush,  add  three  heaping  tablespoons  sugar,  cinnamon 
and  nutmeg  to  taste,  three  well-beaten  eggs,  pint  rich,  sweet  milk ; 
mix  all  well  together  and  bake  slowly  one  hour  in  well-buttered  pud- 
ding dish.  Eat  with  sweet  cream  or  Lemon  Sauce.  For  an  Indian 
Fruit  Pudding  make  a mush  in  custard  kettle  of  three  cups  milk 
or  water  and  cup  yellow  corn  meal  cooking  an  hour  or  two  ; or  three 
cups  cold  mush  will  do.  Add  cup  finely-chopped  suet,  half  cup 
baking  molasses,  two  well-beaten  eggs,  a little  salt,  half  teaspoon 
ginger,  cinnaifton  or  grated  lemon  rind,  and  a cup  each  seedless 
raisins,  and  currants  dredged  with  flour.  Bake  in  buttered  dish  or 
mold  one  hour,  covered  with  buttered  paper.  Makes  a quart  pud- 
ding. For  a Plain  Boiled  Pudding^  scald  pint  and  a half  corn 
meal  with  half  pint  boiling  water ; add  four  tablespoons  Graham 
flour,  pint  milk  (either  sweet  or  sour),  two  tablespoons  molasses, 


PUDDINGS  AND  SAUCES. 


753 


half  a teaspoon  ginger,  a little  salt  and  one  level  teaspoon  soda  (or 
a little  more  if  sour  milk  is  used) ; two  tablespoons  chopped  suet 
wull  make  it  more  light  and  tender,  but  may  be  omitted.  Put  in 
buttered  dish  and  steam  three  or  four  hours ; or  boil  in  floured 
cloth,  leaving  room  to  swell.  Or  warm  pint  each  molasses  and 
milk,  stir  well  together,  and  add  gradually  four  well-beaten  eggs, 
a pound  beef  suet  chopped  flne,  corn  meal  sufiicient  to  make  a 
thick  batter,  teaspoon  pulverized  cinnamon,  nutmeg  and  a little 
grated  lemon  peel,  and  stir  altogether  thoroughly;  boil  as  above 
three  hours  ; serve  hot  with  Every-day  Sauce.  For  Steamed  Pud- 
ding^ take  a quart  milk,  dissolve  cup  meal  in  a little  of  it  and  stir 
into  remainder  when  latter  boils,  cooking  slowly  one  hour ; then  add 
three  or  four  well-beaten  eggs,  teaspoon  powdered  cinnamon,  half 
cup  stoned  raisins,  teaspoon  baking  powder,  a little  salt,  and  beat 
well  together.  Butter  tin  mold,  cover  tightly  and  steam  from  two 
to  three  hours.  It  is  a delicious  pudding  served  with  Jelly  Sauce. 

Kiss  Pudding. — Boil  quart  sweet  milk  in  custard  kettle,  stir  into 
it  four  heaping  tablespoons  sugar  and  three  rounded  tablespoons  corn 
starch,  dissolved  in  a little  cold  water  or  milk,  and  added  to  well- 
beaten  and  strained  yolks  of  four  eggs.  Turn  into  buttered  mold 
which  has  been  sprinkled  with  tablespoon  sugar.  Beat  whites  of 
eggs  to  a stiff  froth  with  cup  pulverized  sugar  and  teaspoon  vanilla ; 
spread  on  top  of  pudding,  set  in  quick  oven,  and  brown ; take  out, 
sprinkle  with  grated  cocoa-nut,  set  away  in  cool  place  and  servo 
cold  after  three  or  four  hours.  The  sweet  liquor  which  settles  to 
bottom  in  cooling,  serves  as  a sauce. 

Lemon  Pudding. — Stir  into  yolks  of  six  eggs  one  cup  sugar, 
half  cup  water,  and  the  grated  yellow  rind  and  juice  of  two  lemons ; 
soften  in  warm  water  six  crackers  or  some  slices  of  cake,  lay  in  bot- 
tom of  baking  dish,  pour  custard  over  them  and  bake  till  firm  ; beat 
whites  of  eggs  to  a froth,  add  six  tablespoons  sugar,  and  beat  well ; 
when  custard  is  done,  put  a meringue  over  it,  return  to  oven  and 
brown.  Serve  either  warm  or  cold.  Some  add  two  ounces  blanched 
and  pounded  almonds  and  bake  in  a puff  paste,  omitting  the  cake, 
and  if  a very  rich  pudding  is  wanted  use  half  cup  cream  instead  of 
water.  Or  for  a Pittshurg  Pudding,  juice  and  grated  rind  of 
one  lemon,  cup  sugar,  yolks  of  two  eggs,  three  well  rounded  taole- 
spoons  flour,  pinch  of  salt,  pint  rich  milk ; mix  flour  and  part  of 
milk  to  a smooth  paste,  add  the  juice  and  rind  of  lemon,  cup  sugar, 
well-beaten  yolks  and  rest  of  milk  (after  having  rinsed  out  the  bowl 
in  which  eggs  were  beaten  with  it)  ; line  plate  with  Puff  Paste  one- 
fourth  inch  thick,  pour  in  custard  and  bake  in  quick  oven  until 
done.  Beat  w^hites  to  stiff  froth,  add  two  tablespoons  sugar,  spread 
over  top,  return  to  oven  and  brown.  Serve  with  very  cold  cream; 
or,  for  a very  nice  dish,  use  Whipped  Cream  Sauce.  A rich  and  not 
an  expensive  pudding.  The  recipe  makes  sufficient  for  six.  For  a 
48 


754 


PUDDINGS  AND  SAUCES. 


Boiled  Lemon  Pudding  mix  half  pound  chopped  suet  with  three- 
quarters  pound  bread-crumbs,  two  cups  sugar,  quarter  pound  flour, 
and  strained  juice  and  grated  rind  of  two  small  lemons  ; when  well 
mixed  stir  in  two  well-beaten  eggs  and  milk  to  make  a thick  batter. 
Put  in  well-buttered  mold  and  boil  three  and  a half  hours.  Turn 
out,  strew  sugar  over  and  serve  hot  with  Jelly  Sauce. 

Macaroni  Pudding. — Simmer  two  and  a half  ounces  macaroni 
in  a pint  milk  with,  rind  of  half  a lemon  till  tender,  and  put  in  but- 
tered pudding  dish,  removing  the  rind ; mix  three  well-beaten  eggs 
with  another  pint  milk,  sweetened  to  taste,  and  pour  over  the 
macaroni ; grate  a little  nutmeg  over  the  top  and  bake  in  moderate 
oven  half  an  hour.  A layer  of  marmalade  or  other  preserves  may 
be  placed  on  top  before  serving.  Or  simmer  a quarter  pound  maca- 
roni in  pint  water  with  lemon  rind  till  tender,  then  skim  out  the 
macaroni,  without  the  rind,  and  add  it  to  mixture  of  a pint  milk,  six 
well-beaten  eggs,  half  pound  each  white  sugar,  and  seedless  raisins 
and  half  ounce  allspice.  Bake  in  buttered  dish  with  a paste  over 
the  top  and  serve  with  Wolverine  Sauce. 

Minute  Pudding . — Take  sweet  milk, or  half  each  water  and  milk, 
pinch  of  salt,  let  boil,  stir  in  wheat  flour,  as  in  making  corn  meal 
mush,  till  same  thickness  as  latter ; remove  from  fire,  and  serve  at 
once  with  Dip  Sauce.  Some  think  it  improved  by  adding  blackber- 
ries, raspberries  or  cherries,  either  canned  or  fresh,  just  before  tak- 
ing from  stove. 

Molasses  Pudding. — Three  cups  flour,  one  each  molasses, 
melted  butter  and  hot  water,  one  teaspoon  soda ; steam  three  hours. 
Some  add  teacup  raisins.  Serve  with  Every-day  Sauce. 

Oatmeal  Pudding. — Mix  quart  milk  with  pint  (*atmeal,  half 
pound  suet  chopped  fine,  quarter  pound  each  stoned  jaisins  and  cur- 
rants ; steam  in  buttered  dish  three  hours.  Serve  with  Fruit  Sauce. 

One-two-ihree- four  Pudding. — Cup  butter,  two  of  sugar,  three 
of  flour,  four  eggs,  whites  and  yolks  beaten  separately,  cup  sweet 
milk,  and  two  teaspoons  baking  powder ; flavor  with  nutmeg,  and 
bake  in  pudding  or  cake  mold ; leave  in  mold  till  next  day,  when 
steam  three-quarters  of  an  hour  and  serve  with  Cider  Sauce.  This 
is  nice  baked  as  a cake. 

Orange  Pudding. — Slice  six  oranges  in  a pudding  dish,  sprinkle 
with  sugar,  and  stand  two  hours  ; pour  a pint  hot  water  over  two 
tablespoons  corn-starch,  previously  dissolved  in  cold  water,  and  let 
cook  a moment  or  two  till  as  thick  as  starch , remove  from  fire, 
sweeten,  add  a little  grated  lemon  and  pour  over  the  oranges,  cover 
with  a meringue  and  brown  in  oven.  Serve  with  Whipped  Cream 
Sauce.  Any  berries  or  peaches  may  be  used  instead  of  the  oranges. 


PUDDINGS  AND  SAUCES. 


755 


Or,  make  a plain  corn-starch  pudding  without  sugar,  and  pour  it 
over  the  oranges  and  sugar.  Serve  cold.  Or  take  the  grated  rind 
of  tw'o,  and  soft  pulp  of  three  oranges,  cup  each  sugar  and  milk,  four 
eggs,  two  Boston  crackers,  or  four  and  a half  tablespoons  rolled  and 
sifted  crackers,  and  tablespoon  butter.  Cream  butter,  stir  in  grated 
rind,  juice  and  sugar,  well-beaten  eggs  and  crackers ; add  milk,  mix 
well,  and  bake  in  pudding  dish  lined  with  paste,  or  in  a buttered 
mold.  Or  boil  four  oranges  and  chop  fine,  taking  out  seeds  and  put 
in  saucepan  with  six  tablespoons  butter,  twelve  Iblanched  and  chop- 
ped almonds,  half  pound  sugar  and  juice  of  a lemon  ; heat  until  the 
butter  is  thoroughly  melted,  then  cool  and  add  eight  well-beaten 
eggs ; put  in  buttered  pudding  dish  with  border  of  puff  paste  and 
bake  from  half  to  three-quarters  of  an  hour ; serve  with  Golden 
Sauce.  Or  line  a pudding  dish  with  slices  of  stale  sponge  cake, 
slice  in  six  oranges,  removing  seeds,  pour  a Boiled  Custard  made  of 
yolks  of  eggs  over,  cover  wuth  meringue  made  with  the  whites,  brown 
with  salamander  or  in  hot  oven  and  serve  cold. 

Paris  Pitdding, — Take  one  pound  flour  and  with  a quarter  of 
it  make  a sponge  with  a half  ounce  compressed  yeast  and  a little 
warm  water,  and  set  to  rise ; make  a hole  in  the  rest  of  flour,  add 
ten  tablespoons  butter,  three  eggs,  dessertspoon  sugar  and  a little 
salt,  unless  the  butter  salts  it  enough.  Beat  all  together  w^ell,  then 
add  five  more  eggs,  one  at  a time,  beating  each  in  well.  When  the 
paste  leaves  the  bowl  it  is  beaten  enough,  but  not  before ; then  add 
sponge,  and  a large  half  ounce  each  currants  and  chopped  citron, 
and  an  ounce  and  a half  sultana  raisins,  seedless.  Put  in  large, 
deep,  upright  mold,  such  as  a charlotte-russe  mold,  let  rise  to  twice 
its  size  and  bake  in  moderate  oven.  This  will  keep  fresh  several 
days,  and  if  it  gets  stale  makes  delicious  fritters  soaked  in  fruit 
juice  and  dipped  in  fritter  batter.  To  make  the  small  round  cakes, 
bake  in  small-sized,  round  charlotte-russe  molds,  filled  only  half  full, 
as  they  rise  very  much  ; bake  these  in  hot  oven,  try  as  any  other 
cake,  then  prepare  a syrup  as  follows : Boil  half  pound  sugar  in 
pint  water,  add  to  this  a third  of  a pint  orange  and  lemon  juice, 
half  and  half,  half  pint  apricot  or  peach  pulp  and  boil  all  together  a 
few  moments  ; pour  this  half  an  inch  deep  in  a dish,  and  stand  the 
cake  or  cakes  in  it ; it  should  take  up  all  the  syrup,  some  may  also 
be  sprinkled  over  it. 

Pie-plant  Pudding. — Peel,  wash  and  slice  four  dozen  stalks, 
cut  in  pieces  an  inch  long,  and  stewuntil  soft,  with  sugar  to  sweeten. 
Mash  through  sieve,  add  rind  of  one  fresh  lemon,  grated  ; little  nut- 
meg, two  tablespoons  butter,  yolks  of  six  egg  and  whites  of  two, 
mix  all  together,  line  dish  with  puff  paste,  fill  with  the  mixture  and 
bake  half  an  hour  and  serve  with  Cold  Cream  Sauce.  Or  prepare 
pie-plant  as  above  and  add  a])int  of  rich  cream ; dissolve  half  an 
ounce  of  gelatine  in  a little  milk,  stir  it  through  the  pie-plant  and 


756 


PUDDINGS  AND  SAUCES. 


pour  into  a wet  mold.  Set  in  ice  several  hours  before  it  is  wanted 
and  serve  with  cream.  The  pie-plant  and  gelatine  must  be  mixed 
while  hot.  Or  cut  up  pie-plant  as  above, then  make  as  Brown  Betty, 
allowing  pound  sugar  to  each  pound  pie-plant. 

Pine-apple  Pudding. — Butter  a pudding  dish,  and  line  bottom 
and  sides  with  slices  of  stale  cake  (sponge  cake  is  best),  pare  and 
slice  thin  a large  pine-apple ; place  in  the  dish  first  a layer  of  pine- 
apple, then  strew  with  sugar,  then  more  pine-apple,  and  so  on  until 
all  is  used,  cover  with  slices  of  cake  and  pour  a cup  water  or  Boiled 
Custard  over  slowly.  Cover  the  whole  with  a buttered  plate,  and 
bake  slowly  two  hours.  Or  beat  four  tablespoons  flour  with  pint 
cream  ; boil  till  thick,  stirring  all  the  time  ; when  cool,  beat  yolks  of 
six  eggs  with  two  tablespoons  butter  and  two  of  sugar ; have  ready 
whites  of  four  eggs  beaten  to  a stiff  froth,  stir  them  in  lightly,  and 
last  add  two  tablespoons  fresh  or  canned  pine-apple,  cut  into  small 
squares ; bake  in  pudding  dish.  For  another  nice  pudding,  peel 
and  grate  a large  pine-apple,  or  use  a can  of  the  fruit;  weigh  after 
grating,  and  allow  an  equal  weight  sugar  and  half  as  much  butter ; 
mix  the  butter  and  sugar  to  a cream,  beat  in  yolks  of  five  eggs,  and 
add  the  grated  pine-apple  and  half  a pint  of  cream ; beat  whites  of 
eggs  to  a stiff  froth,  mix  lightly  with  the  other  ingredients,  and  put 
mixture  in  dish  lined  with  puff  paste  and  bake  in  a moderate  oven 
until  the  pastry  is  done.  Serve  an}^  of  above  with  Pine-apple  Sauce. 

English  Plum  Pudding. — When  making  this  popular  dessert 
it  is  well  to  prepare  the  fruit  the  night  before,  as  so  much  time  is 
required  for  cooking.  It  should  be  made  at  least  two  or  three  days 
before  wanted,  and  is  all  the  better  for  being  kept  a month  or  two, 
put  away  as  directed  for  Fruit  Cake,  page  64.  When  to  be  served  it 
has  only  to  be  thoroughly  reheated  by  steaming — do  not  boil  again, 
as  the  fruit  absorbs  the  moisture  and  the  whole  becomes  insipid. 
For  preparing  the  fruit  see  directions  on  page  65.  All  the  dry  in- 
gredients should  be  well  mixed  together,  then  moistened  with  the 
egg,  which  must  be  well  beaten,  and 
other  ingredients  added.  Some  still 
adhere  to  the  old  way  of  shaping  the 
dough  into  a round  ball  and  boiling  in 
a floured  cloth,  as  directed  in  preface ; 
others  boil  in  a buttered  mold  or  bowl, 
with  a floured  cloth  tied  over,  but  the 
better  way  is  to  steam  in  buttered  mold 
or  pan.  Boil,  or  steam  from  three  to 
six  hours,  according  to  richness  and 
size  of  pudding.  It  is  a good  plan  to 
divide  the  pudding  mixture  in  half  and 
cook  at  the  same  time,  using  one  half  and  putting  the  other  away 
for  future  use.  When  steaming  do  not  remove  cover,  and  when 


PUDDINGS  AND  SAUCES. 


757 


necessary  to  add  more  water  follow  directions  in  preface.  When 
done  place  in  oven  for  a few  moments ; then  put  away  as  directed, 
resteaming  when  wanted.  To  serve,  turn  out  on  platter  and  garnish 
with  holly  leaves  and  berries  as  illustrated  sending  on  with  it  any 
sauce  liked.  An  English  way  of  serving  is  to  break  pieces  oi 
the  pudding  into  inch  bits — do  not  cut  it — before  reheating 
and  turn  the  sauce  over  before  sending  to  table,  serving  in 
individual  saucers.  This  makes  it  much  more  delicious,  but 
spoils  the  appearance  of  the  dish.  To  serve  a pudding  from 
which  a part  has  been  cut,  divide  it  in  two  pieces,  four  inches 
long  and  an  inch  wide,  place  in  buttered  mold,  pour  a boiled  cus- 
tard over,  steam  an  hour  or  two,  turn  out  on  platter  and  send  to 
table  with  a Boiled  Custardround  it.  Several  of  the  best  recipes  for 
making  the  pudding  follow  : One  pound  eachbutter,  suet  and  brown 
sugar,  two  and  one-half  T)ounds  flour,  two  pounds  each  raisins  and 
currants,  quarter  pound  citron,  twelve  eggs,  whites  and  yolks  beaten 
separately,  one  pint  milk,  one  cup  brandy,  or  half  cup  each  orange  and 
lemon  juice,  or  use  any  fruit  juice ; half  ounce  each  cloves  and  mace, 
two  nutmegs,  grated.  Mix  as  directed  above.  One-half  of  this  re- 
cipe makes  a large  pudding  and  should  be  steamed  three  hours  ; if 
whole  recipe  is  used  steam  six  hours.  Dried  cherries,  used  instead 
of  currants,  make  a much  more  delicious  pudding  and  pound  blanched 
and  chopped  almonds  may  be  added.  Serve  with  Cream  Sauce. 
Or  take  one  and  a half  pound  muscatel  raisins,  one  and  one- 
fourth  pound  currants,  pound  sultana  raisins,  two  pounds  best 
coffee  sugar,  two  quarts  bread-crumbs,  sixteen  eggs,  two  pounds 
finely  chopped  suet,  six  ounces  mixed  candied  peel,  rind  of  two  lem- 
ons, an  ounce  each  grated  nutmeg  and  powdered  cinnamon,  half 
dozen  pounded  bitter  almonds,  and  gill  fruit  juice.  Half  bread- 
crumbs and  half  flour  may  be  used,  and  some  add  teaspoon  ginger. 
Prepare  and  mix  ingredients  as  directed  above,  and  boil  or  steam 
from  six  to  eight  hours.  For  a small  family  boil  in  tv/o  or  three 
molds.  A few  sweet  almonds,  blanched  and  cut  in  strips,  ornament 
the  pudding  prettily.  Or  'With  Apples^  quart  seeded  raisins, 
pint  currants,  half  pint  citron  cut  up,  quart  apples  peeled  and  chop- 
ped quart  fresh  and  nicely  chopped  beef  suet,  quart  sweet  milk, 
heaping  quart  stale  bread-crumbs,  eight  eggs  beaten  separately,  pint 
sugar,  grated  nutmeg,  teaspoon  salt ; flour  fruit  thoroughly  from  a 
quart  flour,  then  mix  remainder  as  follow's  : In  a large  bowl  or  tray 
put  the  eggs  with  sugar,  nutmeg  and  milk,  stir  in  the  fruit,  breads 
crumbs  and  suet,  one  after  the  other  until  all  are  used,  adding 
enough  flour  to  make  the  fruit  stick  together,  which  will  take  about 
all  the  quart ; steam  as  directed.  If  not  liked  so  rich  less  eggs  and 
fruit  may  be  used,  and  if  fruits  mentioned  are  not  at  hand  others 
may  be  substituted.  Serve  with  Cape  ^lay  Sauce.  For  an  Egg- 
less  Plum  Pudding^  take  heaping  cup  bread-crumbs,  two  of 
flour,  one  each  suet  chopped  fine,  raisins,  molasses  and  sweet 


758 


PUDDINGS  AND  SAUCES. 


milk,  tablespoon  soda,  teaspoon  each  salt,  cloves  and  cinna- 
mon and  a nutmeg,  graied ; boil  two  and  a half  hours  in 
two  quart  pail,  set  in  kettle  of  boiling  water,  or  steam  for  same 
time.  Or  take  half  pound  flour,  six  ounces  each  raisins  and  cur- 
rants, quarter  pound  each  suet,  brown  sugar,  mashed  carrot,  and 
mashed  potatoes,  tablespoon  molasses,  one  ounce  each  candied 
lemon  peel  and  citron.  Mix  flour,  currants,  suet  and  sugar  well  to- 
gether ; stir  in  the  mashed  carrot  and  potato  and  add  the  molasses  and 
lemon  peel ; put  no  liquid  in  the  mixture,  or  it  will  be  spoiled.  Tie 
loosely  in  a cloth,  or  if  put  in  basin  do  not  quite  fill  it,  as  the  pud- 
ding should  have  room  to  swell,  and  boil  four  hours.  Serve  with 
Orange  Sauce.  This  pudding  is  better  for  being  mixed  overnight. 
For  Prairie  Plum  Pudding^  stew  together  a cup  raisins  and 
half  cup  citron  ; put  in  buttered  dish  layer  of  sponge  cake  (any  kind 
of  cake  will  do,  or  Boston  crackers,  sliced  and  buttered  may  be 
used,  or  Graham  bread-crumbs),  then  a layer  of  fruit,  and  so  on, 
with  cake  or  bread  for  last  layer;  pour  over  it  custard  made  in  pro- 
portion of  a quart  milk,  yolks  of  four  eggs,  and  half  cup  sugar ; bake 
until  on  inserting  a knife  the  milk  has  become  water.  Cover  with 
meringue,  brown  in  oven  and  serve  with  Prairie  Sauce.  For  a Gel- 
atine Plum  Pudding^  beat  together  half  cup  sugar,  two  eggs  and 
teaspoon  butter,  add  three  pints  sweet  milk,  a little  salt,  six  crack- 
ers rolled  fine,  cup  raisins,  and  a half  box  gelatine  dissolved  in  lit- 
tle water ; season  with  nutmeg  or  cinnamon.  Bake  in  pudding  dish 
and  serve  with  Cocoa-nut  Hard  Sauce. 

Potato  Pudding. — Boil  six  good  mealy  potatoes,  mash  very 
fine,  beat  well  with  the  yolks  of  five  eggs,  half  pound  white  sugar, 
quarter  pound  butter;  beat  whites  of  eggs  to  a stiff  froth,  add  the 
grated  rind  and  juice  of  one  lemon,  stir  well,  and  add  a little  salt 
and  pint  rich  milk  or  cream  ; bake  an  hour  and  a half ; reserve  some 
of  the  whites  of  eggs  for  a meringue  for  the  top.  A few  blanched 
and  pounded  almonds  may  be  added.  If  not  liked  so  rich,  use  less 
eggs  and  butter.  Sweet-potato  Pudding  made  in  same  way. 

Prune  P adding one  pound  French  prunes,  let  them 
swell  in  the  hot  water  till  soft,  drain  and  extract  stones,  spread  on 
dish  and  dredge  with  flour;  take  a half  pint  milk  and  stir  into  it 
gradually  eight  tablespoons  sifted  flour,  beat  six  eggs  very  light  amd 
stir  by  degrees  into  a pint  and  a half  milk,  add  the  batter,  then  th?. 
prunes,  one  at  a time;  stir  the  whole^very  hard,  steam  two  hours 
and  serve  with  Prune  Sauce  or  cream.  Or  put  a layer  of  sliced 
bread  or  biscuit,  first  dipped  in  boiling  sweet  milk,  in  baking  dish, 
then  a la:v"er  of  prunes  stewed  as  for  eating,  seeding  the  prunes ; 
then  bread  and  so  on  till  dish  is  full  with  bread  on  top,  having 
sprinkled  each  layer  with  a little  sugar;  pour  over  the  prune  juice 
and  remainder  of  Raided  milk.  To  made  it  richer,  bits  of  butter 
may  be  added  to  each  layer ; bake  in  moderate  oven  from  three* 


PUDDINGS  AND  SAUCES, 


759 


quarters  of  an  hour  to  an  hour.  When  cold  turn  out  in  a dish  and 
spread  whipped  cream  on  top,  or  it  may  be  served  hot  with  sauce 
or  spoonful  whipped  cream  to  each  dish.  A very  nice  pudding, 
wholesome  and  inexpensive. 

Puif'  Pudding. — Cream  third  of  a pint  butter,  gradually  dredge 
in  two-thirds  pint  flour,  scant  half  pint  sugar,  and  keep  stirring 
and  beating  without  ceasing  until  perfectly  smmoth.  Then  add 
^vell-•beaten  yolks  of  three  eggs,  and  lemon  or  vanilla  flavoring ; 
butter  small  cups,  half  fill  them,  having  just  stirred  gently  in  the 
well-frothed  whites,  and  bake  in  brisk  oven  for  about  half  an  hour. 
Turn  out  on  a hot  plate  and  serve  with  Custard,  Jelly  or  Lemon 
Sauce.  A pretty  littie  dish  may  be  made  of  these  puddings  when 
cold,  by  cutting  out  a portion  of  the  inside  with  the  point  of  a knife, 
and  putting  into  the  cavity  a little  whipped  cream  or  delicate  pre- 
serve, such  as  apricot,  greengage,  or  very  bright  marmalade.  The 
paste  requires  a great  deal  of  mixing,  as  the  more  it  is  beaten  the 
better  the  pudding  will  be.  Six  eggs  may  be  used  and  the  puffs 
may  be  steamed.  For  a Saratoga  Puif  Padding.,  to  one  pint  boil- 
ing water  add  half  pint  butter, stir  in  gradually  one  pint  Hour  till  per- 
fectlv  smooth;  take  off  fire,  ^^hen  cool  add  five  well-beaten  eggs 
and  half  teaspoon  soda.  Pour  batter  in  a well-buttered,  hot  pud- 
ding dish  and  bake  in  a quick  oven  about  half  an  hour  or  till  done  ; 
make  an  opening  at  edge  and  pour  in  whipped  cream  as  above  or  a 
Boiled  Custard,  and  serve  at  once.  Something  plainer  but  nice  is 
the  Quick  Puff  Pudding.  Stir  together  pint  flour,  half  pint  milk 
two  teaspoons  baking  powder,  and  a little  salt;  place  well-greased 
cups  in  steamer,  put  in  each  a spoonful  of  batter,  then  one  of  ber- 
ries, steamed  apples,  or  any  sauce  convenient,  cover  with  another 
spoonful  of  batter  and  steam  twenty  minutes.  This  pudding  is  de- 
licious made  with  cranberries  or  fresh  strawberries  and  can  be 
steamed  in  a large  dish  putting  together  as  above.  Adding  cup 
sugar  and  an  egg  makes  the  pudding  much  nicer.  Serve  with  Straw- 
berry Sauce.  For  Raisin  Puffs.,  take  two  eggs,  half  cup  butter, 
three  teaspoons  baking  powder,  two  tablespoons  sugar,  two  cups 
flour,  one  of  milk,  and  one  of  raisins  chopped^very  fine.  Steam  half 
an  hour  in  buttered  cups.  Serve  with  Cream  Sauce. 

Queen  Mob  Pudding — Put  rind  of  lemon,  eight  bitter  almonds, 
blanched  and  bruised,  or  a cut  vanilla  bean,  into  pint  milk,  heat 
slowly  and  keep  at  boiling  point,  until  milk  is  strongly  flavored ; 
then  add  a small  pinch  of  salt,  and  an  ounce  gelatine.  When  this 
is  dissolved,  strain  the  milk  through  muslin,  and  put  it  in  clean 
saucepan,  with  half  cup  sugar  and  half  pint  rich  cream ; boil  up 
once,  take  from  fire,  stir  it  briskly  and  add  by  degrees  well-beaten 
yolks  of  six  eggs;  set  over  a gentle  fire  until  mixture  thickens, 
but  be  careful  it  does  not  curdle.  When  of  the  right  consistency, 
pour  it  out,  and  continue  stirring  until  half  cold  ; then  mix  with  it 
one  ounce  candied  citron,  cut  in  small  pieces,  and  two  ounces  dried 


760 


PUDDINGS  AND  SAUCES. 


cherries ; put  in  buttered  mold  and  serve  cold.  Preserved  pine-ap- 
ple may  be  used  instead  of  the  cherries,  or  mixed  with  them.  This 
pudding  is  delicious  iced. 

Raisin  Pudding. — Line  bottom  of  a buttered  pudding  dish, 
but  not  the  sides,  with  a Puff  or  Plain  Paste,  then  add  a 
layer  chopped  sour  apples,  two  inches  thick  ; then  one  of  chopped 
raisins,  sprinkle  over  sugar  and  dot  with  bits  of  butter,  and  any 
spice  liked;  add  another  layer  of  crust,  fruit,  etc.,  until  dish  is  full ; 
cover  with  crust  and  bake  slowly  an  hour  and  a half ; when  done, 
invert  on  plate,  sprinkle  fine  sugar  over  and  serve  with  Sago  Sauce. 

Raspberry  Pudding. — Cream  half  pint  sugar  with  three  table- 
spoons butter,  add  half  pint  sweet  milk,  pint  flour,  two  teaspoons  bak- 
ing-powder and  two-thirds  of  a pint  floured  ripe  raspberries.  Bake  in 
a buttered  dish  and  serve  with  Golden  Sauce.  Blueberry  or  any 
Berry  P lidding  made  same. 

Rice  Pudding. — To  a cup  rice,  boiled  in  custard  kettle  in  pint 
salted  water  until  dry,  add  pint  milk  in  which  a little  corn-starch  has 
been  dissolved  and  boil  again ; add  yolks  of  two  eggs  beaten  with 
half  cup  of  sugar,  stir  well  together,  and  lastly  add  juice  and  grated 
rind  of  one  lemon.  Place  in  dish,  and  bake  in  moderate  oven  about 
one  hour ; when  done,  cover  top  with  a meringue  and  brown  in 
oven.  If  more  of  a custard  is  liked  omit  the  corn-starch  and  use  a 
little  more  milk.  A cup  of  raisins  maybe  added  just  before  baking, 
or  a little  candied  lemon  peel  if  liked.  If  wanted  to  turn  out  of 
mold  use  five  or  six  eggs.  Nice  baked  in  small  buttered  cups  lined, 
with  candied  lemon  peel.  Turn  out  and  serve  with  Apricot  Sauce. 
Or,  after  boiling  rice  with  milk,  eggs  and  sugar,  add  table- 
spoon butter  and  place  in  a buttered  pudding  dish,  sprinkled 
with  bread-crumbs,  and  bake.  If  wanted  richer  add  four  tablespoons 
butter.  Or  With  Fruity  place  a layer  of  mixture  on  the  crumbs, 
then  a layer  of  peaches,  (fresh,  canned  or  dried),  and  so  on  till  dish 
is  full  with  rice  last ; bake  and  cover  with  meringue  as  above.  Or, 
use  chopped  pine-apple  or  oranges,  dried  cherries  or  any  fruit  jam; 
the  fruit  may  also  be  stirred  through  the  rice,  then  baked.  When 
pine-apple  or  oranges  are  used  they  may  first  be  cooked  ten  minutes 
in  a little  sugar  and  water.  Some  line  the  dish  with  Puff  Paste, 
then  fill  as  above.  Serve  with  Saratoga  Sauce.  For  Boiled  Rice 
Pudding^  wash  a half  pound  rice  and  tie  in  a cloth,  allowing  room 
to  swell,  and  put  in  saucepan  cold  water.  Boil  an  hour,  then  take 
out,  untie,  and  stir  in  a pint  any  fresh  fruit,  or  half  pound  raisins 
or  currants,  tie  up  again  rather  tightly  and  boil  another  hour.  If 
made  with  dried  fruit  serve  vdth  Sago  Sauce,  or  cream  and  sugar  if 
fruit  is  fresh.  Nice  for  children’s  dessert.  For  Economical  Pud- 
ding., take  quart  milk,  half  cup  rice,  salt  to  taste,  cup  sugar  and 
teaspoon  lemon  or  vanilla,  (some  add  tablespoon  butter)  ; place  in 


PUDDINGS  AND  SAUCES. 


761 


oven  at  once,  stirring  occasionally  while  rice  is  swelling.  Bake 
quite  slowly  two  hours  or  more.  It  should  he  cream-like  when 
done,  and  must  be  taken  immediately  from  oven.  A good  test  is  to 
tip  dish ; if  rice  and  milk  move  together  it  is  done  ; if  not  sufficiently 
cooked  the  milk  will  run ; if  neither  move  it  is  done  too  much.  Be> 
fore  serving  grate  nutmeg  over  top  or  sprinkle  with  powdered  cin- 
namon. To  vary  this,  a cup  raisins  may  be  added,  or  ten  minutes 
before  done  stir  in  a well-beaten  egg.  This  is  a delicious  pudding 
when  properly  baked,  and  may  be  eaten  warm  or  cold  with  sugai 
and  cream.  Or  for  Buttered  Rice^  cook  in  custard  kettle  two-thirds 
cup  rice  with  pint  and  a half  milk ; when  tender,  in  about  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour,  pour  off  milk,  stir  in  two  tablespoons  butter, 
sugar  to  taste,  a little  grated  nutmeg  or  powdered  cinnamon  ; when 
hot,  serve  with  Fruit  Sauce.  For  Rice  Snow  ^«^ZZ5,boil  quarter  pound 
rice  in  pint  cold  water  with  teaspoon  salt,  keeping  covered,  till  holes 
come  in  top  and  water  seems  nearly  all  boiled  away,taking  care  it  does 
not  scorch ; then  add  pint  milk  and  boil  moderately,  stirring  occasion- 
ally, until  so  thick  the  rice  does  not  settle  and  there  is  a creamy 
substance  round  every  grain,  being  careful  not  to  break  the  grains. 
Take  off,  stir  thoroughly,  but  gently,  put  into  w’et  cups  and  set  on 
ice.  Improved  by  boiling  lemon  peel  and  stick  cinnamon  with  it, 
taking  them  out  before  putting  in  mold  ; or  when  done  stir  in  any 
flavoring  liked.  When  milk  is  added  some  stir  in  cup  stoned 
raisins.  Serve  either  hot  or  cold  on  a platter  with  a Boiled  Custard 
poured  round,  and  a teaspoon  jelly  on  top  of  each  if  liked.  Or  put 
into  one  or  two  large  molds  and  serve  with  bits  of  jelly  over.  A 
simple  but  nice  dessert.  Or  With  Peaches  boil  double  the  quantity 
and  when  done,  spread  rice  in  a sheet  half  an  inch  thick  on  a large 
platter.  Have  ready  a dozen  large  peaches  peeled,  halved  and 
stoned  ; put  the  halves  together  and  cut  the  rice  in  pieces  just  large 
enough  to  wrap  around  them  ; press  into  shape  with  hands,  wet  in 
cold  Avater  and  wrap  each  ball  in  a cloth,  tie  to  keep  in  shape  and 
boil  half  an  hour  in  plenty  of  boiling  water.  When  done  carefully 
remove  the  cloths  without  breaking  the  balls,  and  serve  with  any 
hot  sauce.  After  boiling  the  rice  as  above,  or  using  all  water,  some 
sweeten  and  fla^mr  to  taste,  add  beaten  yolks  of  three  eggs  and  stir 
OA^er  Are  till  mixture  thickens,  turn  out  on  dish  and  mix  in  a little 
salad  oil ; let  cool  in  a sheet  and  cut  into  circles,  or  flatten  pieces  in 
palm  of  hand,  put  a stoned  peach,  plum,  or  spoonful  of  any  pre- 
serA^es  in  center,  shape  into  a ball,  single-bread  and  fry  in  hot  fat 
SerA’e  hot  or  cold  with  sauce.  Or  With  Apples^  boil  seA^en  table- 
spoons rice  as  above  and  let  cool ; meantime  pare,  quarter  and  core 
eight  good-sized  apples  and  boil  till  tender  in  a syrup  of  a quarter 
pound  sugar  and  half  pint  water,  and  drain  on  a sieA^e.  Put  a cup 
right  side  up  in  center  of  dish  and  pack  the  rice  all  around  it, 
smoothing  with  back  of  a spoon  to  top  of  cup  ; stick  the  apples  into 
rice  in  rows,  one  roAv  sloping  to  right  and  next  to  left.  Set  it  in 


762 


PUDDINGS  AND  SAUCES. 


oven  to  brown ; when  required  for  table,  remove  the  cup,  garnish 
the  rice  with  preserved  fruits,  and  pour  in  the  middle  sufficient 
Boiled  Custard  to  fill  to  top  of  rice,  and  serve  hot.  Or  arrange  apples 
cooked  as  above  in  a pyramid,  with  the  boiled  rice  filling  all  spaces 
between,  and  garnish  with  green  leaves.  For  Rice  SouMe,  boil 
half  cup  rice  in  salted  water  ten  minutes,  then  drain  and  put  in  cus- 
tard kettle  with  pint  milk,  tablespoon  butter  and  cup  sugar ; boil 
half  an  hour  or  till  rice  is  very  soft,  then  beat  to  a smooth  paste 
with  wooden  spoon,  add  well-beaten  yolks  of  five  eggs  and  zest  and 
half  the  juice  from  a lemon.  If  the  paste  is  too  firm  add  a little 
cream.  When  cold  stir  in  the  well-frothed  whites  of  eggs  and  put 
mixture  in  pudding  dish,  Paper  Cases  or  Patty  Shells,  sprinkle  with 
sugar  and  bake  about  ten  minutes.  Serve  with  Snow  Sauce  as  soon 
as  taken  from  oven  or  it  will  fall.  Or  make  with  rice  flour,  stirring 
a half  cup  smooth  with  a little  cold  milk,  add  remainder  of  milk  and 
butter  and  stir  over  fire  until  it  thickens ; then  take  off  fire,  add 
sugar  and  flavor,  stir  in  beaten  yolks  and  whipped  whites,  sprinkle 
with  sugar  and  bake  as  above. 

Sago  Pudding. — Put  one  and  one-half  pints  milk  and  rind  of  a 
lemon  in  saucepan  and  set  on  back  of  range  until  the  milk  is  well 
flavored  with  the  lemon  ; then  strain,  mix  with  it  three  tablespoons 
sago  and  six  of  sugar,  and  simmer  gently  about  fifteen  minutes.  Let 
cool  a little  and  add  four  well-beaten  eggs  and  tablespoon  and  a half 
butter.  Line  the  edges  of  pudding  dish  with  Puff  Paste,  pour  in  the 
pudding,  grate  a little  nutmeg  over  the  top,  and  bake  about  an  hour 
Or  Witli  Apples^  pare  and  core  six  apples,  and  fill  holes  with  cinna- 
mon and  sugar,  using  two  teaspoons  cinnamon  to  cup  sugar ; take 
tablespoon  sago  to  each  apple,  wash  it  thoroughly  and  let  soak  an 
hour  in  water  enough  to  cover  apples  ; pour  water  and  sago  over  ap- 
ples, and  bake  an  hour  and  a half.  Or  With  Raisins^  soak  cup  sago 
in  pint  water  on  back  of  stove  and  after  an  hour  place  where  it  will 
simmer  another  hour  ; stew  cup  raisins  and  quarter  cup  thinly-sliced 
citron  in  a little  water  an  hour  and  a half  and  just  before  serving 
mix  with  the  sago,  adding  grated  rind  and  juice  of  a lemon,  and 
juice  of  an  orange,  if  wished.  Serve  with  Sago  Sauce. 

Snow  Pudding. — Whip  whites  of  six  eggs  and  one-half  pound 
pulverized  sugar  to  a stiff  froth  ; put  in  saucepan  three  pints  cream 
and  three-fourths  cup  sugar  and  set  on  stove  till  it  comes  to  a boil, 
then  draw  to  back  of  stove,  flavor  with  teaspoon  vanilla,  and  with 
two  spoons  shape  the  meringue  into  balls,  and  drop  into  the  boiling 
cream  ; let  brown  slightly  on  both  sides,  then  put  on  a sieve  to  drain. 
Put  in  a pudding  mold  some  fruit  jelly — apple  or  any  light  colored 
jelly— about  an  inch  deep,  and  set  moM  in  pan  of  chopped  ice.  Add 
beaten  yolks  of  eight  eggs  to  the  hot  cream,  and  stir  well  while  cook- 
ing ; when  done  put  on  ice  till  cold  ; then  put  on  the  jelly  in  the  mold 
a layer  of  the  snowballs,  cover  Avith  the  cream,  then  another  layer 


PUDDINGS  AND  SAUCES. 


763 


of  the  balls  and  so  on  till  mold  is  full.  Set  on  ice  till  very  cold  and 
serve,  turned  out  on  platter,  surrounded  with  Whipped  Cream  Sauce. 

Suet  Pudding. — One  cup  each  molasses,  sweet  milk,  hnely- 
chopped  suet,  or  half  a cup  melted  butter,  and  raisins,  half  cup  cur- 
rants, two  and  a half  cups  flour  and  half  teaspoon  soda ; mix  well^ 
salt  and  spice  to  taste,  steam  two  hours  and  serve  with  Spice  Sauce. 
Sour  milk  may  be  used  instead  of  sweet,  and  some  make  tb.e  pud- 
ding without  the  fruit,  adding  an  egg  or  two.  Or  eggs  may  be  added 
with  the  fruit.  Others  use  a cup  each  sugar  and  hot  water,  and  two 
teas])oons  baking  powder,  instead  of  the  milk,  molasses  and  soda. 
Some  prefer  half  cup  each  molasses  and  sugar  .to  all  molasses,  and 
add  teaspoon  oatmeal  or  corn  meal.  For  Hunter^ s Pudding.,  take 
one  pound  each  raisins,  currants,  suet  and  bread-crumbs,  one-half 
pound  sugar,  eight  eggs,  tablespoon  flour,  one-fourth  pound  mixed 
candied  peel,  tablespoon  each  orange  and  lemon  juice,  ten  drops 
essence  of  lemon  and  almonds,  half  a nutmeg,  two  blades  of  mace 
and  six  cloves.  Stone  and  chop  the  raisins,  chop  the  suet  fine,  and 
rub  the  bread  until  all  lumps  are  well  broken  ; pound  the  spice  to 
powder,  cut  the  candied  peel  into  thin  shreds,  and  mix  all  well 
together,  adding  the  sugar.  Beat  the  eggs  to  a stiff  froth,  and  as 
they  are  beaten,  drop  into  them  the  essence  of  lemon  and  almonds ; 
stir  these  to  the  dry  ingredients,  mix  well  and  add  orange  and  lemon 
juice.  Tie  the  pudding  firmly  in  a cloth,  and  boil  six  to  eight  hours. 
Serve  with  Custard  or  Currant  Sauce.  This  will  keep  some  time ; 
when  wanted  steam  one  hour  and  serve.  Veal  suet  makes  a 
more  delicate  pudding  than  beef.  Or  With  Apples,  add  a pound 
chopped  apples  and  a dozen  pounded  almonds  instead  of  raisins, 
candied  peel  and  cloves.  For  a Ginger  Suet  Pudding,  take  half 
pound  of  flour,  one-fourth  pound  each  suet  and  moist  sugar,  two 
large  teaspoons  powdered  ginger.  Chop  the  snet  very  fine,  mix  it 
with  the  flour,  sugar,  and  ginger;  slir  all  well  together;  butter  a 
basin,  and  put  mixture  in  dry ; tie  cloth  over,  and  boil  three  hours 

Swiss  Pudding. — Sift  together  two  cups  flour,  heaping  tea- 
spoon baking  powder  and  small  teaspoon  salt ; then  cream  cup 
granulated  sugar  and  two  tablespoons  cold  butter ; mix  all  together, 
make  a wall  in  the  mixture  and  add  one  egg,  teaspoon  lemon  ex- 
tract, and  just  enough  sweet  milk  to  make  a soft  batter  like  cake. 
Pour  at  once  into  mold  prepared  by  rubbing  with  cold  butter,  dust- 
ing with  flour,  shaking  and  then  turning  out  unnecessary  flour.  Boil 
or  steam  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  or  till  a broom  splint  can  be  run 
in  it.  Serve  hot  with  Cream  Sauce. 

Tapioca  Pudding. — This  popular  and  beautiful  dessert  is  pre- 
pared in  a variety  of  ways.  For  an  Eggless  Tapioca  soak  cup  tap- 
ioca in  cup  cold  water  overnight.  In  the  morning  add  three  cups 
cold  water  and  cook  very  slowly  until  transjiarent.  Slice  half  a 


764 


PUDDINGS  AND  SAUCES. 


lemon  yery  thin,  boil  in  very  little  water  till  tender  and  add  all  to 
the  tapioca  with  sugar  to  taste  and  slight  pinch  of  salt.  Put  in  long 
buttered  tin,  make  a meringue  of  whipped  whites  three  eggs  and 
three  tablespoons  powdered  sugar  and  spread  over  top,  browning 
with  salamander  or  in  oven.  Serve  cold,  cut  in  squares  with  sweet- 
ened cream.  Or  cool  in  a buttered  mold  or  cups  and  serve  with 
whipped  cream.  The  lemon  gives  a fine  flavor,  and  the  thin  slices 
in  the  transparent  pudding  have  a pleasing  effect.  Another  nice 
pudding  is  Apple  Tapioca^  to  a half  cup  tapioca,  add  one  and  one- 
half  pints  cold  water ; let  stand  on  fire  till  cooked  clear,  stirring  to 
prevent  burning;  remove,  sweeten  and  flavor  with  nutmeg ; pour  the 
tapioca  into  a deep ' dish  in  which  have  been  placed  six  or  eight 
pared  and  cored  apples ; bake  until  apples  are  done  and  serve  cold 
witli  cream.  If  not  good  cooking  apples,  first  steam  or  bake  them 
till  tender.  Some  put  bits  of  butter  over  them.  Or  the  apples  may 
be  quartered  or  sliced  and  put  in  dish  with  the  cooked  tapioca  in 
alternate  layers ; bake  and  serve  as  above  adding  a meringue  over 
top,  if  desired.  Make  Peach  Tapioca  after  either  recipes  for  Apple 
Tapioca,  using  either  fresh  or  canned  fruit.  When  the  latter  is  used 
add  the  syrup  to  wuiter  in  which  tapioca  is  to  be  cooked.  For  Co- 
coa-nut Tapioca,  soak  three  tablespoons  tapioca  in  a little  water 
overnight,  drain  in  the  morning  and  add  a quart  milk.  Boil  ten 
minutes  and  add  beaten  yolks  of  four  eggs,  cup  sugar  and  three 
tablespoons  grated  cocoa-nut.  Boil  five  minutes  longer  and  pour  in 
buttered  pudding  dish  and  bake.  To  the  whipped  whites  of  eggs 
add  four  tablespoons  sugar,  spread  over  the  pudding  when  done  and 
sprinkle  with  cocoa-nut.  Brown  lightly  and  eat  warmer  cold  with 
Cocoa-nut  Sauce.  Make  exactly  same,  omitting  cocoa-nut,  for  Cream 
Tapioca.  Using  half  quantity  milk  and  eggs  makes  a nice  pudding. 

Yerrnicelli  Pudding. — Boil  four  ounces  vermicelli  in  one  and  a 
half  pints  milk,  which  has  just  been  cooked  with  a little  lemon  rind 
and  stick  cinnamon,  till  tender ; add  cup  sugar,  four  eggs,  three 
tablespoons  butter  and  flavor  with  vanilla.  Line  sides  of  a buttered 
pudding  dish  with  Puff  Paste,  put  in  mixture  and  bake  in  oven  for 
three-quarters  of  an  hour.  Or  With  Marmalade.^  cover  the  vermi- 
celli with  boiled  milk,  let  stand  ten  minutes,  then  add  two  table- 
spoons marmalade,  half  cup  stoned  raisins,  three  eggs  and  half  cup 
sugar,  or  sweeten  to  taste.  Stir  well  together,  put  in  a buttered 
dish,  boil  or  steam  an  hour  and  a half  and  serve  with  Custard  Sauce. 

Grandma  Thompson's  White  Pudding. — AVeigh  equal  quanti- 
ties best  beef  suet  and  sifted  flour,  shave  suet  and  rub  into  fine  par- 
ticles with  the  hands,  removing  all  tough  and  stringy  parts,  mix  well 
with  the  flour,  season  very  highly  with  pepper,  salt  to  taste,  stuff 
loosely  in  beef  skins  (entrails  cleaned  like  pork  skins  for  sausage), 
half  a yard  or  less  in  length,  secure  ends,  prick  every  two  or  three 
inches  with  a darning  needle,  place  to  boil  in  kettle  of  cold  water 


PUDDINGS  AND  SAUCES. 


765 


hung  on  crane  and  boil  three  hours ; place  on  table  until  cold,  after 
which  hang  up  in  cool  place  to  dry ; tie  in  clean  cotton  bag,  and  put 
away  where  it  will  be  hoth  dry  and  cool.  When  wanted  for  use  cut 
off  quantity  needed,  boil  in  hot  water  until  heated  through,  take  out 
and  place  before  the  fire  to  dry  off  and  “crisp”.  The  above  was  con- 
sidered an  “extra”  dish  at  all  the  “flax  scutchings,”  “quilting  frol- 
ics,” and  “log  rollings”  of  a hundred  years  ago.  The  same  by  meas- 
ure is  as  follows  ; One  pint  best  beef  suet  to  two  pints  flour  ; mix 
thoroughly,  season  very  highly  with  pepper  and  salt,  sew  up  little 
sacks  of  cotton  cloth  half  a yard  long  and  three  inches  wide,  fill 
nearly  full,  put  to  boil  in  hot  water,  boil  from  four  to  six  hours ; 
when  done,  take  out,  drain,  let  cool,  hang  in  a dry,  cool  place,  and 
when  wanted  for  table,  cut  off  as  much  as  needed,  put  in  hot  water, 
boil  until  cooked  through,  take  out,  peel  off  cloth,  put  in  pie-paix 
and  set  in  oven  to  brown.  Some  use  half  flour  and  half  corn  meal. 

Whortleberry  Pudding. — Stir  together  quart  berries,  pint  molas- 
ses, cup  milk,  teaspoon  soda,  pound  and  two  ounces  flour,  teaspoon 
cloves,  one  of  cinnamon,  and  one  nutmeg.  Put  in  buttered  mold 
with  closely  fitting  cover  and  boil  two  and  a half  hours,  or  may  be 
steamed  in  mold  without  a cover.  Turn  out  and  serve  hot  with 
Lemon  Sauce.  Or  sift  together  two  cups  each  flour  and  sugar,  two 
teaspoons  baking  powder,  and  with  a knife  chop  half  cup  butter 
through  the  mixture ; stir  in  quart  of  berries,  dredged  with  flour, 
add  three  beaten  eggs  and  half  pint  milk ; put  into  buttered  dish 
and  bake  half  an  hour  in  moderate  oven.  Serve  hot  with  Arrow- 
root  Sauce.  Huckleberry  and  Blueberry  Pudding  made  same. 

Roily  Poly. — Make  a nice  crust  as  for  rich  baking-powder 
or  soda  biscuit,  roll  out  in  a long  sheet  half  an  inch  thick  and  spread 
to  within  an  inch  and  a half  of  he  edge  with  any  kind  of  fresh, 
preserved,  or  dried  and  stewed  fruit,  or  jelly,  jam  or  marmalade; 
fold  the  edges  over  the  fruit  and  roll  it  up, 
prick  deeply  with  a fork,  place  on  buttered 
plate  and  steam  from  one  hour  and  a half 
to  two  hours ; or  boil  in  a floured  cloth, 
basting  up  the  sides  and  tying  the  ends. 

Some  do  not  turn  edges  in  till  after  rolling,  then  tuck  them  in  well. 
Serve  cut  in  slices  with  Dip  or  Hard  Sauce.  For  Apple.,  Orange 
and  Peach  Roily- Poly  the  fruit  should  be  sliced,  and  for  Cherry., 
stoned ; sprinkle  the  fruit  well  with  sugar,  and  some  add  bits  of  but- 
ter before  rolling  up,  with  a little  grated  peel  over  the  oranges,  and 
cinnamon  or  nutmeg  over  the  apple.  Some  use  Plain  or  Suet  Paste 
or  raised  biscuit  dough,  rolling  a quarter  inch  thick.  This  dessert 
may  be  varied  by  making  into  several  small  rolls,  or  shaping  into 
balls  with  a spoonful  fruit  in  center  of  each.  Some  sprinkle  in  a 
few  currants  with  the  apples  and  use  raisins  with  jelly,  jam,  apple 
butter  or  marmalade.  For  Fig  Roily- Poly  spread  with  figs  cut  in 


Rolly-Poly. 


766 


PUDDINGS  AND  SAUCES. 


small  pieces  and  for  Lemon  cook  the  pulp  of  three  lemons  with  cup 
and  a half  sugar  twenty  minutes,  then  spread  the  dough  and  roll  as 
above.  Or  some  simply  mix  the  juice  with  teaspoon  each  flour  and 
sugar  for  each  lemon  and  spread  over  the  paste,  or  use  the  Lemon 
Butter.  Chopped  pie- plant,  thickly  sprinkled  with  sugar  is  nice 
used  as  above.  A Dixie  Rolly-Poly  is  made  in  two  or  three 
rolls,  using  any  of  above  mixture  for  spreading,  and  placed  in  pan 
four  or  five  inches  deep  with  cup  sugar,  half  cup  butter  and  hot 
water  enough  to  cover.  Bake  half  an  hour. 

Savarin. — Take  quart  sifted  flour,  make  a well  in  center,  and 
put  in  half  ounce  compressed  yeast  and  two  tablespoons  lukewarm 
milk  ; mix  these  together  and  stand  sponge  in  warm  place.  When 
risen  to  twice  its  first  size,  put  in  gill  warm  milk  and  two  eggs . With 
spoon  work  the  mixture  together  and  stir  in  one  more  egg ; add 
three-fourths  pound  butter,  teaspoon  salt,  tablespoon  sugar,  and 
another  half  gill  warm  milk.  Still  keep  working  mixture,  and  add 
an  egg  at  a time  till  five  have  been  used.  Cut  into  small  pieces  two 
ounces  candied  orange  peel  and  mix  it  in  the  paste.  Butter  a flut- 
ted  cylinder  mold,  strew  a tablespoon  chopped  almonds  on  butter, 
and  half  fill  mold  with  paste.  Let  it  stand  till  it  has  risen  to  the 
top,  bake,  and  when  done,  turn  out.  Serve  with  syrup  poured  over 
it,  flavored  as  preferred.  Or  With  Apples^  bake  a savarin  as  above  in 

cylinder  mold  eight  inches  across 
and  when  done  turn  it  out  on  a tall 
dish  so  that  it  stands  nearly  one  and 
a half  feet  high.  Peel  two  good  ap- 
ples, cut  into  small  dice  and  boil  them 
in  syrup.  Peel  and  cut  pears  in  same 
way,  adding  a drop  or  two  prepared 
cochineal 'to  color  them.  Peel  and 
core  seven  more  apples,  halve  them  and 
Savarin  With  Apples.  boil  in  syrup.  Cut  fourteen  slices  pre- 

served pine-apple  of  the  size  of  the  apple  pieces,  warming  them  in 
some  syrup.  Place  these  pieces  of  apple  and  pine-apple  alternately 
round  the  savarin.  Cut  into  dice  some  preserved  apricots,  cherries, 
and  greengages  and  boil  a minute  or  two  with  a gill  syrup  and  half 
a gill  orange  juice ; fill  center  of  circle  made  as  above  with  this  mix- 
ture and  garnish  with  preserved  cherries. 


Sauices. 

Arrowroot  Sauce. — Mix  two  teaspoons  arrowroot  smoothly 
with  half  pint  water;  put  in  saucepan,  add  three  tablespoons  sugar, 
juice  of  one  lemon  and  quarter  teaspoon  grated  nutmeg.  Let  boil, 
then  serve.  A gill  of  any  fruit  juice  may  be  added  if  liked. 


PUDDINGS  AND  SAUCES. 


767 


Apricot  Sauce. — Put  one  cup  cream  or  milk  in  custard  kettle ; 
when  hot  add  tablespoon  corn-starch,  mixed  smoothly  with  a little 
cold  milk  and  cook  fifteen  minutes.  Boil  cup  sugar  and  ten  table- 
spoons water  half  an  hour;  to  this  add  half  cup  apricot  pulp  (can- 
ned or  fresh  fruit  rubbed  through  a sieve),  beat  well  and  mix  with 
the  boiled  milk.  Place  inner  kettle  in  a pan  of  cold  water  and  beat 
for  ten  minutes,  let  cool.  Peachy  Strawberry y Raspberry y and  any 
fruit  may  be  prepared  as  above. 

Cape  May  Sauce. — Place  gill  milk  in  pan  in  boiling  water  and 
when  scalding  hot  add  half  pint  powdered  sugar  mixed  with  yolks 
of  two  eggs ; stir  until  thick  as  boiled  custard,  take  off  and  when 
cool  add  flavoring  to  taste.  Just  before  serving  mix  the  well-beaten 
whites  lightly  with  the  sauce.  If  not  liked  so  rich  use  double  the 
quantity  of  milk  and  for  Snoio  Sauce  use  only  the  beaten  whites, 
mixing  in  at  first,  and  just  before  serving  add  half  gill  lemon  juice. 

Caramel  Sauce. — Make  a caramel  as  on  page  411  of  three  table- 
spoons sugar,  watch  carefully  until  it  assumes  a delicate  brown 
color;  put  into  another  saucepan  three-quarters  cup  sugar,  half  the 
rind  of  a lemon  cut  thin,  one  inch  stick  cinnamon  and  three-quar- 
ters pint  cold  water ; bring  these  to  a boil  gradually  ; simmer  for  ten 
minutes,  add  two  tablespoons  each  lemon  and  orange  juice,  strain 
the  liquid  quickly  into  the  caramel,  mix  thoroughly  and  serve. 

Cherry  Sauce. — Stone  pint  cherries,  crack  stones,  take  out  ker- 
nels and  pound  in  mortar  to  smooth  paste ; put  tablespoon  each 
butter  and  flour  in  saucepan  and  stir  over  fire  till  a delicate  brown, 
then  add  cherries,  the  pounded  kernels,  four  tablespoons  orange 
juice  and  half  pint  water.  Simmer  gently  fifteen  minutes,  or  until 
cherries  are  cooked,  and  rub  the  whole  through  a puree  sieve ; add 
a little  grated  lemon  rind,  powdered  cloves  and  sugar  to  taste.  Bring 
to  boiling  point  and  add  two  tablespoons  lemon  juice,  then  serve. 
This  is  a delicious  sauce  for  Boiled  Batter  Pudding,  and  when  thus 
used,  should  be  sent  to  table  poured  over  the  pudding. 

Chocolate  Sauce. — Stir  two  ounces  chocolate  (grated)  into  half 
pint  each  cream  and  milk.  Sweeten  to  taste,  cook  in  custard  ket- 
tle and  add  small  piece  vanilla  bean.  When  hot  beat  into  it  yolks 
of  four  eggs  till  a good  froth  and  cook  till  thick.  Remove  from  fire, 
add  well-whipped  whites  of  four  eggs  mixed  with  tablespoon  sugar, 
stirring  in  lightW  without  breaking  up  the  snow-like  look  of  the 
froth,  and  serve  either  hot  or  cold.  Or  to  half  pint  of  any  boiled 
custard  add  one  ounce  grated  chocolate. 

Cider  Sauce. — Mix  two  tablespoons  butter  with  a tablespoon 
flour;  stir  in  half  pint  brown  sugar,  and  half  gill  boiled  cider;  add 
gill  of  boiling  water,  mix  well,  simmer  a few  moments  and  serve  hot. 


768 


PUDDINGS  AND  SAUCES. 


Cocoa-nut  Sauce. — Two  tablespoons  butter,  cup  of  sugar,  table- 
spoon of  flour,  milk  of  one  cocoa-nut,  with  a small  piece  grated. 

Cream  Sauce.— to  a cream  three  tablespoons  butter,  one 
cup  granulated  sugar  in  a bowl  and  add  half  cup  cream.  Stir  one 
egg,  without  beating,  gently  through  the  mixture  and  place  bowl 
inside  of  top  of  tea-kettle.  When  hot,  flavor  with  tablespoon  each 
lemon  and  orange  juice  or  teaspoon  vanilla,  and  serve.  Or  With- 
out Eggs^  use  powdered  sugar,  omit  the  egg  and  stir  constantly. 
Add  flavoring  and  serve.  For  a less  rich  sauce  a half  cup  boiling 
water  may  be  added  with  the  cream.  For  Cold  Cream  Sauce.,  beat 
together  one  cup  sugar  and  half  cup  butter,  and  add  a cup  rich 
cream.  Stir  ail  to  a cream,  flavoring  with  vanilla  or  lemon,  and 
place  where  it  will  get  very  cold  before  serving.  For  Whipped 
Cream  Sauce,  whip  a pint  of  thick  sweet  cream,  add  beaten  whites 
of  two  eggs,  sweeten  to  taste ; place  pudding  in  center  of  dish,  and 
surround  with  the  sauce ; or  pile  up  in  center  and  surround  with 
small  molds  of  blanc-mange,  or  fruit  puddings. 

Currant  Sauce. — Put  in  stewpan  two  tablespoons  each  butter 
and  flour,  and  stir  till  a light  brown,  add  a little  water  and  a glass 
of  currant  or  any  fruit  juice,  or  a spoonful  of  jelly  beaten  in  a glass 
of  water.  For  a Dried  Currant  Sauce,  pick  and  wash  three  table- 
spoons nice  currants,  add  quarter  teaspoon  ginger,  the  juice  of  half  a 
lemon,  and  seven  or  eight  lumps  sugar,  rubbed  on  the  lemon  rind. 
Simmer  all  these  ingredients  together  till  currants  are  soft.  Serve 
without  straining.  Any  dried  berries  may  be  prepared  same. 

Custard  Sauce. — Four  yolks  of  eggs,  four  tablespoons  pow- 
dered^ sugar,  grated  rind  of  a lemon,  four  tablespoons  any  fruit 
juice  or  half  and  half  lemon  and  orange  juice,  and  a little  salt.  Beat 
quickly  over  a slow  fire,  until  it  assumes  a light,  frothy  custard. 

Dip  Sauce. — One  pint  cream  or  half  milk,  three  tablespoons 
sugai,,  and  half  a small  nutmeg,  grated. 

Egg  Sauce. — Heat  a pint  milk  to  boiling  and  stir  in  tablespoon 
Dutter  and  four  of  sugar ; take  from  fire  and  stir  in  yolks  of  four 
5ggs  beaten  with  two  tablespoons  cold  milk,  then  add  whipped 
whites  of  eggs,  flavor  with  vanilla  and  serve  immediately. 

Every-day  Sauce.— 'Yo  pint  boiling  water,  add  heaping  cup 
sugar,  pinch  salt,  and  tablespoon  corn-starch,  mixed  smoothly  with 
cold  water ; season  with  nutmeg,  cinnamon,  vanilla  or  lemon  ex- 
tract, boil  two  or  three  minutes,  stirring  all  the  time,  add  tablespoon 
butter  and  serve.  If  wanted  very  clear  boil  half  an  hour.  For  a 
Jelly  Sauce  add  to  above  two  teaspoons  currant,  grape,  or  any  jelly 
beaten  with  one  of  water  just  before  serving,  omitting  all  other 
flavoring.  For  a Fruit  Sauce  add  two  tablespoons  any  fruit  syrup. 


PUDDINGS  AND  SAUCES. 


769 


For  P'^airie  Sauce,  use  two-thirds  pint  water,  add  another  table- 
spoon butter  and  beat  in  whipped  white  of  an  egg  just  before  serv- 
ing. Some  add  two  whole  eggs,  well  beaten.  Milk  may  be  used  in- 
stead of  water  in  any  of  above  with  half  as  much  sugar.  For  a 
Lemon  Sauce,  add  to  the  Every-day  Sauce  half  a lemon,  thinly 
sliced.  Adding  a teaspoon  each  extract  cloves,  mace  and  ginger  to 
the  Every-day  Sauce,  makes  a nice  Spice  Sauce. 

Foaming  Sauce. — Melt  cup  sugar  in  little  water,  let  boil,  stir  in 
two  tablespoons  each  lemon  and  orange  juice,  and  then  the  beaten 
whites  of  three  eggs  ; serve  at  once.  Or  Without  Eggs  beat  half  cup 
each  butter  and  sugar  to  a frothy  cream  ; set  dish  in  pan  hot  water, 
add  tablespoon  hot  water,  or  more,  if  preferred ; flavor  with  vanilla, 
and  stir  one  way  till  it  becomes  a very  light  foam. 

Fruit  Sauce. — Cream  a half  pound  butter,  stir  in  three-quarters 
pound  brown  sugar,  and  beaten  yolk  of  an  egg ; simmer  a few  mo- 
ments over  a slow  fire,  stirring  almost  constantly;  when  near  boil- 
ing add  a half  pint  bottled  grape  or  raspberry  juice.  Or  beat  four 
eggs  and  put  in  saucepan  with  two  teaspoons  flour  smoothed  in  a 
little  water,  quarter  pound  sugar,  and  a pint  fresh  fruit  juice,  rasp- 
berry is  nice.  Put  on  fire  and  stir  lightly  till  it  thickens,  and  when 
it  becomes  light  and  frothy  serve  at  once. 

Golden  Sauce — Cream  two  tablespoons  butter  and  four  of 
sugar ; add  yolk  of  egg  and  stir  all  into  half  pint  boiling  water.  Let- 
cook  a few  moments  in  a pan  of  hot  water,  then  add  beaten  white 
slowly  and  serve.  Flavor  as  preferred. 

Hard  Sauce. — Beat  cup  white  sugar,  powdered  is  best,  and  half 
cup  butter  together  until  thoroughly  mixed,  the  longer  it  is  beaten 
the  whiter  it  becomes.  Place  in  glass  dish  nicely  rounded  and 
smoothed,  with  nutmeg  cinnamon  or  grated  orange  or  lemon  peel 
sprinkled  thickly  over.  Serve  very  cold.  Or  flavor  with  any  ex- 
tract preferred,  make  into  oval  shapes  with  teaspoon  and  serve 
piled  in  a dish.  Good  for  nearly  all  puddings  and  may  be  colored 
pink  by  adding  a little  fruit  juice  while  beating.  Some  take  equal 
parts  butter  and  sugar,  which  makes  the  sauce  very  rich.  In  cold 
weather  the  butter  will  need  to  be  softened  a little.  Flavor  with 
pine-apple  extract  for  Pine-apple  Hard  Sauce ; form  into  pyramid, 
and  by  indenting  with  a teaspoon  shape  it  like  a pine-apple.  Some  add 
v/hipped  white  of  an  egg.  For  Lemon  Hard  Sauce,  add  juice  of  a 
whole  or  half  a lemon  according  to  size,  using  the  grated  peel  as 
above.  Make  Orange  Hard  Sauce  same,  or  select  a thin  orange- 
cut  the  skin  into  six  equal  parts,  by  cutting  through  at  stem  end  and 
passing  the  knife  around  the  orange  to  nearly  the  blossom  end ; 
loosen  and  turn  each  piece  down  and  remove  the  orange.  Extract 
juice  and  mix  it  with  yellow  sugar  (prepared  by  dropping  a drop  or 
49 


770 


PUDDINGS  AND  SAUCES. 


two  of  gold  coloring  on  white  sugar  while  stirring  it)  till  a ball  can 
be  formed,  which  place  in  the  orange  peel  and  serve.  The  gold  col- 
oring may  be  omitted.  Lemon  Sauce  may  be  made  same  way.  For 
Cocoa-nut  Hard  Sauce^  add  a tablespoon  grated  cocoa-nut  to  first 
recipe  and  also  sprinkle  with  it. 

Lactiola  Sauce. — Scald  a half  pint  milk,  add  sugar  to  taste  and 
teaspoon  flour  or  corn-starch  mixed  smooth  with  a little  cold  milk  ; 
boil  two  or  three  minutes,  stirring  constantly,  remove  from  fire,  and 
add  beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs  and  any  flavoring  liked.  Or  scald  six 
tablespoons  milk  and  pour  over  the  well-beaten  yolk  of  one  egg, 
mixed  with  two  tablespoons  sugar ; then  pour  this  over  the  whip- 
ped whites  beaten  with  two  more  tablespoons  sugar.  Flavor  with 
nutmeg  and  serve  either  cold  or  hot. 

Lemon  Sauce. — Stir  tablespoon  each  flour  and  butter  in  sauce- 
pan over  fire  till  mixture  bubbles,  pour  in  hot  water — about  a pint — 
slowly  till  sauce  is  thick  as  cream,  add  heaping  tablespoon  sugar, 
boil  up  once,  add  juice  and  grated  rind  of  a lemon  and  serve.  An 
egg  or  two  or  yolks  of  three  or  four  may  be  added,  and  more  sugar 
to  sweeten  to  taste.  For  a richer  sauce,  take  two  cups  sugar,  two 
eggs,  juice  and  rind  of  two  lemons;  beat  all  together,  and  just  be- 
fore serving  add  pint  boiling  water ; set  on  stove,  and  when  at  boil- 
ing point,  serve.  Never  boil  sauce  after  adding  lemon,  as  it  makes 
it  bitter.  Some  add  one-third  cup  butter  and  tablespoon  corn-starch. 
Or  take  six  eggs,  leaving  out  whites  of  two,  half  pound  butter, 
pound  sugar,  juice  and  grated  rind  of  two  lemons  ; place  over  slow 
fire  and  stir  till  it  thickens  like  honey.  Very  nice.  Orange  Sauce 
may  be  made  same,  using  less  sugar. 

Maple-sugar  Sauce. — M^elt  over  slow  fire,  in  scant  cup  water, 
half  pint  maple  sugar;  let  it  simmer,  removing  all  scum;  add  four 
tablespoons  butter  mixed  with  a level  teaspoon  flour  and  one  of 
grated  nutmeg ; boil  a few  moments,  and  serve  with  boiled  pud- 
dings. Or,  make  LLard  Sauce  of  tablespoon  butter  to  two  of  sugar. 

Marigold  Sauce. — Four  tablespoons  butter,  seven  of  best  pow- 
dered sugar,  half  cup  fruit  juice,  cup  cream,  half  a nutmeg,  yolks  of 
six  eggs  ; scald  cream  in  custard  kettle,  beat  butter,  sugar  and  eggs 
together;  add  nutmeg,  pour  hot  cream  over  all,  add  juice  and  serve. 

Minnehaha  Sauce. — Beat,  in  a two  quart  bowl,  four  tablespoons 
butter  and  two-thirds  pint  brown  sugar,  to  a cream.,  with  a wooden 
spoon ; then  add  four  tablespoons  sweet  cream,  then  the  juice  and 
grated  rind  of  a large  lemon  , place  bowl  in  top  of  tea-kettle  half  full 
of  boiling  water ; when  melted  to  a thick  creamy  froth,  serve. 

Orange  Sauce. — Beat  whites  of  five  eggs  to  stiff  froth,  add  coffee 
cup  powdered  sugar,  juice  of  two  oranges  and  grated  rind  of  one. 


• PUDDINGS  AND  SAUCES. 


771 


Make  Lemon  Sance  same  way.  Or  make  in  proportion  of  two  eggs 
to  one  lemon  and  half  cup  sugar. 

Pine-apple  Sauce. — Grate  a pine-apple,  add  a very  little  water, 
simmer  until  quite  tender,  mix  with  it,  by  degrees,  half  its  weight  in 
sugar,  boil  gently  for  five  minutes,  and  serve. 

Plain  Sauce. — Make  as  White  Sauce,  page  178,  using  sugar  in 
place  of  salt  and  pepper  and  adding  a little  grated  lemon  rind,  nut- 
meg or  powdered  cinnamon.  Boiling  a few  bitter  almonds  in  the 
milk  for  half  an  hour,  then  straining  and  using  as  above  is  nice. 

Prune  Sauce. — Boil  a half  pound  best  prunes  in  just  enough 
v/ater  to  cover  till  soft.  Remove  from  pan,  take  out  stones,  break 
them  in  a mortar ; put  these  and  the  fruit,  with  four  tablesoons  any 
fruit  juice,  juice  of  a lemon  and  small  piece  of  the  peel,  in  sauce- 
pan ; add  syrup  in  which  prunes  were  boiled,  a little  sugar  to  taste, 
half  teaspoon  powdered  cinnamon,  and  simmer  seven  or  eight  min- 
utes. Strain  through  a coarse  sieve  and  add  more  water  if  too  thick. 

Queen  Sauce. — Boil  pint  water  and  scant  three  gills  sugar  hall 
an  hour;  when  cold,  add  gill  orange  and  one-third  of  lemon  juice. 
Or  if  wished  hot  add  the  juice  just  before  taking  from  stove. 

Sago  Sauce. — Wash  tablespoon  sago  in  two  or  three  waters 
and  then  put  in  saucepan,  with  third  of  a pint  water  and  peel  of  a 
lemon  ; simmer  gently  ten  minutes,  take  out  lemon  peel,  add  strained 
juice  of  one  lemon  and  two  oranges  with  sugar  to  taste,  and  if  liked  a 
little  cinnamon,  give  one  boil  and  serve.  This  is  a delicious  sauce 
for  boiled  puddings. 

Saratoga  Sauce. — Boil  half  cup  each  cream  and  milk,  stir  in 
heaping  teaspoon  corn-starch  mixed  smooth  in  a little  cold  milk, 
and  add  two  tablespoons  butter  beaten  to  a cream  with  five  of  sugar. 
Serve  at  once. 

Strawherry  Sauce. — Half  cup  butter,  one  and  half  cups  sugar, 
and  pint  strawberries  mashed  till  juicy.  Canned  berries  may  be 
ased.  Beat  butter  and  sugar  to  a cream ; then  stir  in  berries  and 
beaten  white  of  an  egg.  Raspberry  Sauce  made  same  way.  Or 
take  two  eggs,  half  cup  butter,  cup  sugar  and  beat  thoroughly  to- 
gether with  a cup  boiling  milk  and  one  of  berries. 

Vinegar  Sauce. — Pint  boiling  water,  cup  sugar,  tablespoon 
flour  mixed  smoothly  in  a little  water,  quarter  of  a grated  nutmeg, 
and  a pinch  of  salt ; let  boil  ten  minutes  ; just  before  serving  add 
tablespoon  butter  and  two  tablespoons  vinegar. 


772 


SALADS. 


SALADS. 


Salads,  when  properly  prepared,  are  very  appetizing  and  whole- 
some, especially  in  the  spring  when  the  system  needs  the  refresh- 
ing and  tonic  elements  of  the  green  salad  plants.  They  may  also 
be  made  very  attractive  additions  to  the  table,  and  as  will  be  seen 
by  reference  to  the  recipes  which  follow  are  very  easily  prepared,  re- 
quiring very  little  thought  or  labor  and  many  from  the  most  simple 
ingredients,  while  some  are  quite  inexpensive,  utilizing  odds  and  ends 
that  frequently  go  to  waste.  The  variety  of  salad  materials  is  almost 
innumerable  and  may  be  divided  into  six  classes ; salad  plants,  un- 
cooked and  cooked  vegetables,  meats,  fish,  and  fruits.  For  a list  of  the 
first,  see  Marketing.  The  excellence  of  a salad  depends  upon  the  fresh- 
ness of  its  materials,  and  the  preservation  of  an  equal  flavor  in  the  use 
of  condiments;  the  best  salad  is  one  in  which  no  one  flavor  pre- 
dominates and  the  ingredients  composing  the  salad  must  harmon- 
ize with  the  dressing.  The  importance  of  using  none  but  the  purest 
condiments  must  not  be  overlooked,  for  a perfect  salad  cannot  be  made 
with  inferior  ingredients.  All  vegetables  must  be  carefully  cleaned 
and  if  to  be  used  uncooked,  thoroughly  cooled  before  dressing.  Let- 
tuce should  be  carefully  washed,  as  soon  after  picked  as  possible,  in 
plenty  of  cold,  salted  water,  rejecting  all  imperfect  leaves,  being 
careful  not  to  bruise  stems  or  leaves  as  it  causes  them  to  wilt,  and 
left  in  clean,  cold,  salted  water  until  fresh  and  crisp ; then  wrapped 
in  a clean  wet  cloth,  and  kept  in  a cool,  dark  place;  to  lay  it  next 
ice  in  a refrigerator  is  an  excellent  way  to  keep  it  fresh  and  crisp. 
The  salad  in  which  lettuce  is  used  should  not  be  dressed  until  just 


SALADS. 


773 


before  serving,  because  the  lettuce  wilts  so  soon  after  the  dressing 
is  applied ; the  nicest  small  leaves  should  be  reserved  for  decorat- 
ing, the  larger  ones  should  be  laid  around  the  sides  and  in  bottom 
of  salad  bowl,  and  the  rest  torn  apart  with  the  fingers. 

Celery  should  also  be  carefully  washed  in  plenty  of  cold,  salted 
water,  trimmed  into  lengths,  wrapped  in  a wet  cloth,  and  kept  in  cold 
place  until  wanted  for  the  salad,  when  it  should  be  cut  into  bits 
with  a knife,  not  chopped.  When  celery  cannot  be  had,  chopped 
white  cabbage,  or  head  lettuce,  shredded,  may  be  used  instead  with 
celery  seed.  Frozen  celery  should  be  thrown  into  cold  water  while 
it  is  yet  stiff;  if  it  is  allowed  to  partly  thaw  before  putting  into  cold 
water  it  will  be  spoiled.  All  vegetables  can  be  kept  as  above  and 
crisped  by  placing  in  ice  water  an  hour  or  two  before  serving.  As- 
paragus, pease,  and  string  beans  for  salads  should  be  boiled  in  salted 
boiling  water  until  tender,  then  drained  and  put  into  cold  water  at 
once,  to  preserve  their  color,  and  drained  on  a dry  cloth  to  free  from 
moisture  before  using.  In  preparing  meat  for  salads  it  is  much  nicer  to 
pick  it  or  cut  with  a knife  instead  of  chopping,  always  removing  bits 
of  gristle,  fat  and  skin. 


Mixing  Salads.-—1x\  preparing  dressing,  powder  the  hard-boiled 
eggs,  either  in  a mortar  with  a wooden  pestle  or  by  mashing  with 
back  of  salad  spoon  (if  raw  eggs  are  used  beat  well  and  strain),  add 
seasoning,  then  oil,  a few  drops  at  a time,  and,  lastly  and  gradually, 
vinegar.  The  wooden  salad  fork  and  spoon  are 
best  to  use  in  making  salads,  though  silver  may 
be  used.  Alwa3^s  use  freshest  olive  salad  oil,  not 
common  sweet  oil ; a dark  paper  should  be  kept  saiad  Fork  and  spoon, 
around  the  bottles  of  oil  to  shield  them  from  the  light,  and  they 
should  be  corked  tightly  enough  to  exclude  the  air  and  kept  in  a 
cool  place.  If  oil  can  not  be  obtained,  cream  or  melted  butter  is  a 
good  substitute  and  by  some  considered  even  more  palatable,  bnt 
when  used  it  should  be  added  last  of  all.  All  cooked  dressings  are 
better  made  in  custard  kettle,  using  great  care  in  adding  eggs,  let- 
ting the  mixture  cool  slightly,  and  adding  slowly,  lest  they  curdle. 
Then,  whether  cooked  or  uncooked,  dressing  should  be  made  as 
cold  as  possible  before  mixing  with  the  salad,  save  when  otherwise 
specified  in  recipes  where  cooked  dressings  are  used.  The  quantity 
of  oil  and  vinegar  may  be  increased  or  diminished  according  to  taste, 
as  many  persons  prefer  a smaller  portion  of  the  former,  and  when 
sugar  is  used  the  quantity  will  depend  somewhat  upon  the  acidity 


774 


SALADS. 


of  the  vinegar.  In  using  raw  eggs,  the  yolks  make  a richer  dressing 
and  when  making  a quantity  it  is  economical  to  prepare  it  on  bak- 
ing day,  using  the  whites  for  cake.  Appropriate  dressings  for  each 
salad  are  suggested  in  recipes,  but  any  dressing  preferred  may  of 
course  be  used  instead.  When  mixed,  green  salads  should  be  stir- 
red as  little  as  possible,  in  order  that  their  freshness  may  be  pre- 
served until  they  are  served.  Borage,  summer  savory,  chervil,  nas- 
turtium, sorrel  and  endive  (which  must  be  blanched  or  it  is  bitter) 
may  be  added  to  green  salads.  In  preparing  meat  salads,  all  the 
ingredients,  except  the  delicate  green,  if  any  is  used,  may  be  pre- 
pared the  day  before  using  if  kept  on  ice  or  in  cold  place,  but  must 
not  be  mixed  until  an  hour  or  two  before  serving.  Then  add  the 
dressing  and  mix  by  tossing  up  lightly  with  a wooden  or  silver  fork, 
turn  into  salad-bowl  or  on  platter  and  shape  into  an  oval  mound, 
taking  care  to  handle  very  lightly,  never  using  the  least  pressure  to 
get  it  into  form ; then  place  on  ice  or  in  very  cold  place  till  ready  to 
serve,  as  cold  salad  must  be  ice  cold  to  be  at  its  prime.  Or  mix 
only  a part  of  the  dressing  with  the  salad  and  place  remainder  over 
the  top.  The  salad  is  sometimes  mixed  with  a plain  dressing  and 
a Mayonnaise  placed  over  just  before  serving ; or  the  entire  dressing 
may  be  poured  over  the  top.  The  Mayonnaise,  or  a cooked  dress- 
ing is  generally  used  with  chicken,  fish  or  meat  salads,  and  most 
vegetable  salads ; for  green  salads,  lettuce,  cress,  etc.,  the  French 
or  any  plain  dressing  is  most  appropriate. 

Serving  Salads. — Green  salads  are  usually  served  in  salad- 
bowl,  also  those  arranged  in  layers,  but  for  meat  salads  and  com- 
bination of  vegetables,  as  the  Russian  and  Boston,  the  platter  is 
more  often  used,  as  it  can  be  more  handsomely  garnished  and  pre- 
sents a more  attractive  appearance.  Though  suggestions  for  garn- 
ishing follow  each  recipe,  no  exact  rules  can  be  given  as  the  ma- 
terials mentioned  may  not  alwa3^s  be  at  hand  and  much  depends 
upon  the  individual  taste  and  judgment.  Wild  flowers  or  nastur- 
tiums neatly  arranged  with  alternate  tufts  of  green,  are  very  pretty 
during  warm  weather.  * During  cold  weather  garnish  with  slicecl 
eggs  and  pretty  designs  cut  from  beets,  turnips,  radishes,  celery,  etc. 
As  handsome  a garnish  as  we  ever  saw  was  as  follows  ; in  center  of 
the  hollowed  halves  of  whites  of  boiled  eggs  was  jjlaced  a spray  or 
two  of  parsley,  the  stem  stuck  in  egg,  so  it  was  held  firmly ; three  of 
these  halves  were  placed  in  center  of  salad,  then  rings  of  the  white 
placed  around  salad  with  a spray  of  parsle^^  in  each ; celery  tufts 
could  be  used  instead  of  parsley".  A nice  wa}^  of  serving  is  in  Salad 
Shells ; put  two  or  tliree  small  lettuce  leaves  together  in  form  of  a 
shell,  or  take  the  cup-shaped  leaves,  form  cups  and  arrange  on  a 
platter ; or  some  place  a folded  napkin  in  salad-bowl,  then  cover 
with  lettuce  leaves  to  absorb  the  drippings  from  the  ice  and  put  in 
the  shells  or  cups  with  pieces  of  ice  between ; put  in  each  a table- 
spoon of  the  salad  and  over  this  a teaspoon  of  dressing.  Or  ar- 


SALADS. 


775 


range  thus  in  individual  dishes  and  place  one  at  each  plate ; this  is 
a very  simple  and  yet  very  attractive  way  of  serving  any  salad,  ex- 
cept a green  salad.  Fruit  salads  are  generally  served  at  breakfast ; 
vegetable  and  meat  salads  usually  for  tea  and  lunch  or  after  meats 
at  dinner.  The  cabbage,  celery,  cucumber,  potato  and  green  salads, 
are  particularly  appropriate  for  serving  with  meats,  though  some 
prefer  to  serve  lettuce  and  celery  salads  after  the  meat  course.  The 
richer  salads,  like  chicken,  lobster  and  salmon  are  particularly 
nice  for  suppers  and  lunches,  but  are  also  served  after  meats  at  dinner. 

Bacon  Dressing. — Cut  half  pound  fat  bacon  in  slices,  then  in 
very  small  pieces,  and  fry  until  fat  extracted  is  a light  brown ; re- 
move pan  from  fire,  add  juice  of  one  lemon,  four  tablespoons  strong 
vinegar,  saltspoon  pepper,  and  pour  it  over  the  salad  with  the  pieces 
of  bacon.  A very  nice  dressing  when  oil  is  not  to  be  had.  Or  heat 
two  tablespoons  bacon  or  pork  fat,  in  custard  kettle,  stir  in  table- 
spoon flour,  add  half  cup  water  and  boil  up  once  ; add  half  cup  vin- 
egar, and  two  eggs,  beaten  with  half  teaspoon  salt,  teaspoon  each 
sugar  and  mustard  and  tablespoon  lemon  juice  ; cook  four  minutes, 
stirring  constantly,  cool  and  use.  Will  keep  two  or  three  weeks  in 
cold  place  if  corked  tightly.  Or  With  Onion.,  fry  two  large  slices 
onion,  finely  minced,  in  two  tablespoons  bacon  or  pork  fat,  until 
yellow,  then  add  teaspoon  each  salt  and  sugar,  quarter  teaspoon 
pepper  and  half  cup  vinegar.  Nice  for  Cabbage  Salad. 

Bavarian  Dressing. — Put  half  pint  boiling  water  in  custard 
kettle,  add  three  tablespoons  vinegar  and  place  on  stove.  Beat  three 
eggs  lightly ; mix  with  a little  cold  water,  tablespoon  mustard,  tea- 
spoon salt,  pinch  of  cayenne  and  half  tablespoon  corn-starch,  beat 
this  mixture  up  with  eggs,  and  stir  it  very  slowly  into  the  boiling 
water  and  vinegar,  removing  latter  from  stove  in  order  to  prevent 
possibility  of  curdling ; then  return  to  stove  and  stir  constantly  un- 
til quite  thick.  Take  from  fire,  add  immediately  a quarfer  pound 
butter  and  stir  until  it  is  thoroughly  melted.  Put  yolk  of  an  egg 
on  plate,  and  with  a fork,  mix  gradually  with  it  gill  olive  oil,  beat- 
ing it  in  well.  When  first  mixture  is  cold,  beat  second  into  it.  If 
more  oil  is  desired,  the  yolk  of  another  egg  must  be  mixed  with  it. 
This  recipe  will  make  about  a pint. 

Bohemian  Dressing. — Beat  yolks  of  eight  eggs,  add  cup  sugar, 
tablespoon  each  salt,  mustard,  and  black  pepper,  a little  cayenne, 
half  cup  cream,  and  mix  thoroughly  ; bring  to  a boil  a pint  and  a 
half  vinegar,  add  cup  butter,  and  when  melted  pour  upon  the  mix- 
ture, stir  well,  and  when  cold  put  into  bottles  and  set  in  cool  place. 
Will  keep  weeks  in  hot  weather ; is  excellent  for  cabbage  or  lettuce. 

Bouillon  Dressing. — To  one  pint  boiling  water,  or  veal,  fish  or 
chicken  broth  add  a small,  scraped  carrot  and  half  an  onion,  sliced, 
half  bay  leaf,  celery  root  cut  in  pieces,  seven  cloves,  five  whole  all- 


776 


SALADS. 


spice,  fifteen  pepper-corns  and  quarter  teaspoon  white  mustard  seed ; 
simmer  fifty  minutes,  adding  a little  more  water  if  needed ; strain 
and  cool.  To  each  gill  liquid  add  a gill  vinegar,  teaspoon  sugar, 
and  pour  over  any  salad  wished.  For  Jellied  Bouillon  Dressing^ 
add  to  this,  third  of  box  gelatine  soaked  in  cold  water,  and  to  each 
quart  of  liquid  the  white  and  shell  of  an  egg  ; when  just  commencing 
to  boil  place  on  back  of  range  and  simmer  seven  minutes  or  until 
it  looks  clear  as  in  clarifying  soup  ; strain  and  use  as  directed  in  Gelim 
ola  Salad.  When  vinegar  is  strong  do  not  use  more  than  two-thirds  as 
much.  Double  this  recipe  makes  a pint  of  bouillon  and  this  with 
two-thirds  pint  vinegar,  two-thirds  box  or  ounce  and  a third  gela- 
tine and  a box  sardines  makes  a quart  mold  of  Sardine  Salad. 

Cream  Dressing. — Three  eggs,  tablespoons  olive  oil  or  melted 
butter,  and  two  of  mustard,  cup  each  sweet  cream  and  vinegar,  tea- 
spoon each  salt  and  pepper ; mix  mustard  and  oil,  then  eggs  well- 
beaten,  cream,  vinegar,  salt  and  pepper,  all  together ; put  mixture 
in  custard  kettle  and  boil  gently  until  thick  as  cream  ; when  done, 
put  in  quart  jar,  cork  tightly,  and  it  will  keep  for  months.  Can  be 
used  for  all  kinds  of  salads  and  slaws,  A tablespoon  sugar  may  be 
added  if  liked.  If  to  be  used  immediately  make  only  half  or  a third 
of  the  recipe,  and  add  beaten  egg  and  cream  after  taking  from  fire. 
Some  use  only  the  yolks  of  eggs,  and  add  a small  onion  chopped 
very  fine,  or  for  Rye  Beach  Dressing.,  put  half  pint  sweet  cream  in 
custard  kettle  ; when  hot,  add  tablespoon  corn-starch  or  two-thirds 
as  much  flour,  cook  three  minutes,  add  tablespoon  sugar,  remove 
from  fire  and  when  slightly  cooled  add  the  well-frothed  whites  of 
two  eggs.  When  cold,  add  tablespoon  oil,  teaspoon  each  salt  and 
mustard,  pinch  cayenne,  or  saltspoon  white  pepper  and  third  of  a 
pint  vinegar.  For  Eggless  Crenm.  Dressing^  prepare  cream  as 
above  add  tables] )oon  butter  mixed  smooth  with  a tablespoon  and  a 
half  flour,  cook  two  or  three  minutes  ; take  off  fire,  add  tablespoon 
more  butter,  stir  till  well  mixed,  add  vinegar  and  seasoning  as  above, 
omitting  the  oil.  Addition  of  lemon  juice,  minced  onion,  parsley, 
chopped  pickle,  etc.,  may  be  made  as  wished.  To  make  a Cold 
Cream  Dressing  stir  to  a cream  one  egg,  cup  rich  sweet  cream,  and 
tablespoon  sugar  and  add  half  cup  vinegar  with  mustard,  salt  and 
pepper  to  taste.  Set  on  ice  till  ready  to  serve.  Or  use  yolks  of 
two  or  more  eggs,  and  lemon  juice  instead  of  vinegar,  if  preferred, 
and  add  two  tablespoons  salad  oil.  For  Sour  Cream  Dressing, 
mix  in  a saucepan  one  pint  sour  cream,  as  free  from  milk  as  pos- 
sible, and  half  pint  good  vinegar,  pepper,  salt,  a small  piece  of  but- 
ter, sugar,  and  a level  tablespoon  mustard ; boil,  add  well-beaten 
yolks  of  two  eggs,  stirring  carefully  until  consistency  of  starch,  then 
set  in  cool  place  or  on  ice,  and  when  cold  pour  over  salad  and  mix 
well.  For  an  uncooked  dressing  take  \cup  sour  cream,  teaspoon 
each  salt  and  sugar,  tablespoon  lemon  juice,  three  of  vinegar,  small 
pinch  cayenne,  and  mix  together  thoroughly.  Best  for  vegetables. 


SALADS. 


77" 


Creole  Dressing. — To  three  quarters  pint  tomato  pulp  obtained 
by  rubbing  cooked  tomatoes  through  a puree  sieve,  add  tablespoon 
arrowroot  or  corn-starch  mixed  smooth  in  a little  cold  water.  Boil 
ten  minutes  in  custard  kettle,  add  tablespoon  butter,  half  teaspoon 
each  sugar  and  salt,  quarter  of  white  pepper  and  two  or  three  table- 
spoons vinegar.  Use  either  hot  or  cold. 

Eggless  Dressing. — Boil  cup  vinegar  with  half  cup  sugar,  butter 
size  of  egg,  tablespoon  ground  mustard,  and  salt  and  white  pepper 
to  taste.  Let  cool  before  adding  to  salad.  A cup  cream  may  be 
added  when  taken  from  fire. 

French  Dressing. — Mix  thoroughly  together  six  tablespoons 
oil,  two  saltspoons  salt,  half  saltspoon  white  pepper  and  two  table- 
spoons vinegar.  A pinch  cayenne  may  be  added.  For  an  Italian 
Dressing  add  teaspoon  each  chopped  onion  and  pickle.  For  Eng- 
lish Dressing  French  Dressing  a teaspoon  prepared  mustard. 

Lactiola  Dressing. — Four  tablespoons  butter,  one  of  flour,  one 
of  salt,  one  of  sugar,  heaping  teaspoon  mustard,  pinch  of  cayenne, 
cup  milk,  half  cup  vinegar,  three  eggs.  Heat  the  butter  in  custard 
kettle,  add  flour,  and  stir  until  smooth,  being  careful  not  to  brown, 
then  add  milk,  and  boil  up.  'Beat  eggs,  salt,  pepper,  sugar  and  mus- 
tard together,  and  add  vinegar.  Mix  with  boiling  mixture,  and 
stir  until  it  thickens  like  soft  custard.  Let  cool,  and  when  cold, 
bottle  and  place  in  ice  chest.  This  will  keep  two  or  three  weeks. 
Or  take  same  proportions  of  other  ingredients  using  oil  instead  of 
butter.  Stir  the  oil,  salt,  mustard  and  sugar  in  a bowl  until  per- 
fectly smooth  ; add  the  egg  and  beat  well,  then  the  vinegar  and  lastly 
the  milk.  Cook  in  custard  kettle  eight  or  ten  minutes,  let  cool  and 
serve . Or  if  wanted  richer  and  for  immediate  use  take  half  as  much 
vinegar  and  milk,  beat  the  eggs  separately  and  just  before  taking 
from  fire  add  the  whipped  whites  and  let  cool,  stirring  once  or  twice. 

Mayonnaise  Dressing. — Take  yolks  of  two  eggs,  two  saltspoons 
salt,  one  of  white  pepper  or  pinch  of  cayenne,  teaspoon  dry  mustard, 
half  pint  olive-oil  and  about  three  tablespoons  vinegar.  To  prevent 
danger  of  curdling,  beat  with  a wooden  spoon  the  yolks,  salt,  pep- 
per and  mustard  together,  before  adding  the  oil  wliich  must  be  stir- 
red in  gradually,  a few  drops  at  a time,  taking  care  to  blend  each 
portion  with  the  egg  before  adding  more,  stirring  constantly,  until 
a thick  paste  is  formed,  and  the  mixture  has  a glossy  instead  of 
velvety  appearance ; then  add  a few  drops  vinegar,  stirring  all  the 
time,  until  of  the  consistency  of  thick  cream;  stir  in  more  oil  in 
drops  until  the  mayonnaise  is  stiff  again,  when  a few  drops  vinegar 
should  be  beaten  in  and  so  continue  alternating  until  all  the  oil  is 
used,  adding  vinegar  rather  cautiously  at  the  last  so  that  when  fin- 
ished the  mayonnaise  will  be  stiff  enough  to  remain  on  top  of  the 


SALADS. 


778 


salad.  The  dressing  should  he  stirred  one  way,  as  reversing  the 
current  causes  it  to  curdle.  Lemon  juice  may  be  used  instead  of 
vinegar,  or  a few  drops  may  be  added  with  the  vinegar.  This  is  the 
smoothest  and  richest  of  salad  dressings,  the  oily  flavor  is  entirely 
lost  in  combination  with  the  raw  egg.  Fifteen  or  twenty  minutes 
are  usually  required  for  putting  the  ingredients  together.  Care 
must  be  taken  not  to  add  too  much  oil  at  first  or  the  mayonnaise 
will  curdle.  When  this  happens,  beat  the  yolks  of  one  or  two  more 
eggs  on  another  plate,  add  to  them  the  curdled  mayonnaise  by  de- 
grees, and  finish  by  adding  more  oil  and  vinegar  or  lemon  juice. 
Some  think  there  is  less  danger  of  curdling  if  the  addition  of  vine- 
gar is  begun  when  only  a little  oil  has  been  used.  After  all  ingred- 
ients are  thoroughly  mixed  the  addition  of  a cup  whipped  cream  en- 
riches the  dressing,  and  some  add  a teaspoon  or  two  sugar.  This 
sauce  keeps  well,  if  bottled  and  corked  with  a glass  stopper,  and  it 
may  be  made  at  any  time  in  advance  when  yolks  are  left  over  from 
baking.  In  summer,  place  oil  and  eggs  in  cold  place  half  an  hour 
before  making.  The  well-beaten  white  of  an  egg  may  be  added  to 
the  dressing  just  before  using.  To  make  Red  Mayonnaise^  add 
lobster  coral,  pounded  to  a powder  and  rubbed  through  a sieve,  or 
use  juice  from  boiled  beets.  For  Green  Mayonnaise^  add  Spinach 
or  Parsley  Coloring,  and  usetaragon  vinegar.  If  liked  any  of  the 
flavored  vinegars  given  in  Pickles  may  be  used  instead  of  the  plain. 
For  Sardine  Dressing  add  to  the  above  the  yolks  of  four  hard- 
boiled  eggs  pounded  in  a mortar  with  three  sardines  whiph  have 
been  perfectly  freed  from  bones,  A nice  dressing  for  fish.  Butter 
can  be  used  instead  of  oil  in  any  mayonnaise  dressing,  by  first 
creaming  it,  and  adding  slowly  a well-beaten  egg. 

Minnehaha  Dressing, — Dissolve  tablespoon  mustard  in  a little 
vinegar,  then  add  a little  more  of  latter  till  a half  pint  is  used ; mix 
in  this  gill  sugar,  more  if  wished  sweeter,  and  two  tablespoons  soft, 
but  not  melted,  butter ; let  boil,  place  on  back  of  range  and  add 
yolks  of  six  eggs  or  four  whole  ones,  as  directed  in  Mixing  Salad. 
When  done,  and  ice  cold  pour  over  any  salad  wished,  but  especially 
nice  for  Tip-Top  Salad.  This  dressing  keeps  nicely  when  corked 
tightly.  Less  eggs  may  be  taken,  using  a teaspoon  corn-starch  for 
each  egg  omitted. 

Orange  Dressing. — Beat  together  two  and  a half  gills  orange 
and  gill  lemon  juice,  add  five  tablespoons  fine  granulated  sugar  and 
beaten  white  and  shell  of  half  an  egg ; cook  in  custard  kettle  ten 
minutes,  strain  and  when  cold  pour  over  the  salad.  For  Jellied 
Orange  Dressing.^  add  to  above  mixture  when  half  done,  third  of  a 
box  gelatine,  (two-thirds  of  an  ounce)  soaked  in  seven  tablespoons 
cold  water,  strain  and  use  as  directed  in  Gelinola  Salad.  For  Rasp- 
herry  Dressing.,  make  as  first  recipe,  using  two  and  a half  gills  rasp- 


SALADS. 


779 


berries  and  one  gill  currant  juice  ; for  Jellied  Raspberry  Dressing^ 
make  as  second  recipe.  Water  may  be  added  to  juice  if  wished. 

Potato  Dressing. — Peel  one  large  potato,  boil,  mash  until  all 
lumps  are  out,  and  add  yolk  of  a raw  egg ; stir  all  well  together  and 
season  with  a teaspoon  mustard  and  little  salt ; add  about  half  gill 
olive  oil  and  vinegar,  putting  in  only  a drop  or  two  at  a time,  and 
stirring  constantly,  as  success  depends  on  its  smoothness. 

Sioedish  Dressing. — Yolks  of  tv/o  eggs  beaten  thoroughly  level 
teaspoon  salt,  one  of  pepper,  two  of  white  sugar,  two  of  prepared 
mustard,  tablespoon  butter  ; add  four  tablespoons  best  vinegar,  put 
in  custard  kettle  and  stir  constantly  till  it  thickens  ; when  cool  it  is 
ready  for  use.  This  is  sufficient  for  one  quart  finely-chopped  cab- 
bage, and  for  that  should  be  poured  over  while  hot,  thoroughly 
mixed  with  it  and  served  when  cold. 

Siviss  Dressing. — Mash  the  yolks  of  four  hard-boiled  eggs,  with 
two  teaspoons  each  white  pepper  and  made  mustard,  one  of  salt  and 
a pinch  of  cayenne  ; add  three  tablespoons  melted  butter  or  salad 
oil,  a few  drops  at  a time,  and  when  smooth  stir  in  a well-beaten 
egg,  and  gradually  add  cup  vinegar,  or  use  half  lemon  juice.  Some 
use  only  the  yolks  of  two  or  three  hard-boiled  eggs,  and  stir  in 
beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs  at  the  last  instead  of  the  whole  egg.  A 
tablespoon  sugar  may  be  added,  and  cream  or  clarified  chicken  fat 
may  be  used  instead  of  oil  or  butter,  adding  twice  the  quantity  of 
cream.  Or  for  a Foam  Dressing  stir  in  first  recipe  the  whipped 
white  of  an  egg  just  before  serving,  having  added  tablespoon  sugar. 

Anchovy  Salad. — Wash,  skin  and  bone  eight  salted  anchovies 
soak  in  cold  water,  or  water  and  milk,  an  hour,  then  drain  and  dry, 
them.  Arrange  lettuce  leaves  neatly  in  salad  bowl  and  over  them 
put  the  anchovies  and  two  sliced  hard-boiled  eggs,  pour  a French 
or  any  plain  Dressing  over  and  serve.  If  preferred,  the  fish  may  be 
chopped  or  cut  into  strips. 

Apple  Salad. — Slice  very  tart  apples  and  mix  with  young 
onions,  chopped,  place  on  a dish  and  pour  a French  Dressing  over. 
Or  for  Apple  C(dcry  Salad  mix  equal  quantities  sliced  apples 
and  cut  celery  and  pour  over  any  dressing  preferred. 

Asvaraqus  Salad. — Scrape  if  necessary,  and  wash  asparagus, 
and  boil  soft  in  salt  water;  drain  off  water,  add  pepper,  salt  and 
strong  cider  vinegar,  and  then  cool.  Before  serving,  arrange  as- 
paragus so  that  heads  will  all  lie  in  center  of  dish  ; mix  the  vinegar 
in  Avhich  it  was  put  after  removing  from  the  fire  with  good  olive  oil 
or  melted  butter,  and  pour  over  the  asparagus.  Or  pour  over  the 
Eggless  Dressing.  Or  arrange  the  asparagus  in  center  of  dish  with 
border  of  cauliflower,  first  cooked  in  salt  water  and  cooled,  and  pour 
over  Cream  or  IMayonnaise  Dressing.  Or  after  cooking  the  aspara- 


780 


SALADS. 


gus  put  in  cold  water  as  directed  in  preface,  cut  in  inch  pieces  and 
serve  as  above.  Garnish  with  capers. 


Bean  Salad. — String  young  beans,  break  into  half-inch  pieces 
(or  leave  whole),  wash  and  cook  soft  in  salt  water;  drain  well, 
add  finely-chopped  onions,  pepper,  salt,  and  vinegar ; when  cool  add 
olive-oil  or  melted  butter.  The  onions  may  be 
omitted.  Or  when  beans  are  cold  slice  them 
lengthwise,  cutting  each  bean  into  four  long  slices  ; 

^ BeadsaiaA.  ^ placc  them  neatly,  the  slices  all  lying  in  one  di- 
rection, rosswise  on  a platter.  Season  them  an  hour  or  two  before 
serving,  with  a marinade  of  a little  pepper,  salt,  and  three  sijoonfuls 
vnnegar  to  one  spoonful  of  oil.  Just  before  serving,  drain  from 
•*  iiem  any  drops  that  may  have  collected  and  carefully  mix  v'  ith  the 
Italian  Dressing.  For  Lima  Bean  Salad,  boil  quart  Lima  beans 
in  salted  water  till  tender,  drain  and  put  in  salad  bowl  with  three 
hot  boiled  potatoes  cut  in  slices,  chop  a stalk  celery  and  sprinkle 
over,  then  cover  with  thq  English  Dressing,  set  in  cool  place  or  on 
ice  and  when  cold  serve.  A little  cold  boiled  tongue  may  be  added 
if  liked.  To  make  salad  from  dried  beans,  soak  the  beans  and  boil 
in  salted  water  until  done,  but  not  broken  ; when  cold,  add  grated 
onion  and  chopped  parsley  to  taste,  and  the  French  Dressing. 


Borage  Salad.  Prepare  as  lettuce,  add  a few  leaves  sorrel,  a 
sprig  or  two  each  chervil,  tarragon  and  parsley  and  teaspoon  chop- 
ped chives  ; pour  over  a French  Dressing  and  serve.  Or  for  a Mixed 
Salad,  take  equal  parts  borage,  lettuce  and  sorrel,  add  one  or  more 
of  the  herbs  and  dress  as  above. 


Cahhage  Salad. — Two  quarts  finely-chopped  cabbage,  two  level 
tablespoons  salt,  two  of  white  sugar,  one  of  pepper,  and  a heaping 
one  of  ground  mustard ; rub  yolks  of  four  hard-boiled  eggs  until 
smooth,  add  half  cup  butter,  slightly  warmed  ; mix  thoroughly  with 
the  cabbage,  and  add  cup  good  vinegar  ; serve  with  whites  of  eggs 
sliced  and  placed  on  salad.  Or  mix  with  the  chopped  cabbage  any 
hot  dressing ; the  Cream  Dressing  and  the  Bacon  Dressing  with 
onions  are  both  nice  with  cabbage.  Some  add  ten  chopped  hard- 
boiled  eggs  to  the  cabbage,  or  chopped  celery  in  the  proportion 
liked,  mixing  with  either  any  dressing  preferred.  Tip-top  Salad  is 
made  V)y  letting  the  two  quarts  chopped  cabbage  soak  in  salted  water, 
two  tablespoons  salt  to  quart  water,  an  hour  or  longer ; meantime 
making  the  Minnehaha  Dressing  and  mixing  it  with  the  cabbage  after 
draining  in  colander,  pressing  well  with  potato  masher  to  extract 
allthewater;  toss  lightly  with  fork  and  serve.  A little  chopped  celery 
soaked  with  the  cabbage  is  an  improvement  as  it  harmonizes  perfectly 
and  a quantity  may  be  made  up  for  it  keeps  nicely  in  a tightly  cov- 
ered jar.  Many  prefer  to  omit  the  mustard  from  this  as  well  as  all 
Cabbage  Salads,  thinking  the  cabbage  possesses  enough  of  that  bit- 
ing flavor  in  itself.  Or  heat  scant  cup  vinegar,  and  when  boiling  add 


SALADS. 


781 


tablespoon  each  butter  and  sugar,  teaspoon  essence  of  celery  and 
white  pepper  and  salt  to  taste ; then  stir  in  a small  head  cabbage, 
chopped  or  sliced  line  and  scalding  hot,  but  do  not  boil.  Meantime 
have  a cup  sweet  milk  heated  to  boiling,  stir  in  two  well-beaten  eggs 
and  cook  till  it  thickens.  Put  the  cabbage  in  salad  bowl,  turn  the 
custard  over  it  and  stir  in  quickly,  tossing  up  with  silver  fork  until 
thoroughly  incorporated.  Cover  to  keep  in  the  strength  of  vinegar 
and  set  on  ice.  Serve  perfectly  cold  garnished  with  sliced  hard- 
boiled  eggs  and  tufts  of  green  alternated  with  red  pickled  beets  ; using 
the  white  of  eggs  in  rings  and  filling  center  with  the  beets  cut  to  tit,  or 
in  any  fancy  shape  makes  a pretty  ornament.  For  Pepper  Salad^  add 
chopped  green  peppers  removing  seeds,  to  cabbage  shaved  line  and 
serve  with  a Swedish  Dressing. 

Celery  Salad. — Cut  off  the  root  end  of  three  heads  of  blanched 
celery,  wipe  each  stalk  carefully,  cut  into  small  pieces,  put  in  salad 
bowl,  place  a Potato  or  Mayonnaise  Dressing  over  and  serve.  May 
be  garnished  with  white  celery  leaves  or  water  cresses,  or  arrange  on 
a fiat  dish  and  encircle  with  points  of  pickled  beets.  Another 
salad  is  made  by  mixing  a head  of  cabbage  with  three  bunches 
celery,  first  chopping  both  line  and  add  any  dressing  preferred. 

Chicken  Salad. — Boil  three  chickens  until  tender,  salting  to 
taste ; when  cold  cut  in  half-inch  pieces,  rejecting  all  fat,  gristle  and 
skin  and  add  twice  the  quantity  of  celery  washed  and  cut  up  with  a 
knife  but  not  chopped,  and  four  cold-boiled  eggs  sliced  and  thor- 
oughly mixed  through  the  other  ingredients.  For  dressing,  put  on 
stove  a saucepan  with  pint  vinegar  and  butter  size  of  an  egg,  and 
beat  two  or  three  eggs  with  one  tablespoon  mustard,  and  Avhite  pep- 
per, two  of  sugar  and  teaspoon  salt,  and  when  thoroughly  beaten 
together  pour  slowly  into  the  vinegar  until  it  thickens.  Be  careful 
not  to  cook  too  long  or  the  egg  will  curdle.  ^ Remove,  and  when 
cold  pour  over  salad,  mixing  it  lightly  through  with  wooden  or 
silver  fork,  adding  pinch  of  ca3"enne  and  juice  of  one  or  two  lemons. 
Taste  to  ascertain  if  rightly  seasoned,  and  add  more  vinegar  and 
salt  as  needed.  All  may  be  prepared  the  day  before,  mixing  a short 
time  before  using.  If  a very  delicate  salad  is  wanted  use  only 
the  white  meat.  Some  use  half  as  much  celery  as  chicken,  others 
equal  quantities  and  some  one  and  a half  or  twice  as  much  of  for- 
mer as  latter,  and  the  proportions  may  be  otherwise  varied  to  suit 
the  taste  of  individuals.  Some  use  half  celery  and  half  lettuce,  and 
either  cabbage,  lettuce  or  chopped  pickled  cucumbers  may  be  used 
instead  of  celery,  adding  two  tablespoons  celery  seed,  but  the  salad 
will  not  be  so  nice.  The  celery  and  chicken  should  be  cut  in  same- 
sized pieces,  but  never  chop  either,  as  if  cut  too  fine  the  salad  be- 
comes an  unsightly  hash.  Some  use  only  the  whites  of  hard-boiled 
eggs  in  the  salad,  and  add  the  mashed  yolks  to  the  dressing,  or  use 
latter  in  the  salad  and  the  whites  cut  in  rings  as  a garnish ; both 
raw  and  boiled  eggs  may  also  be  omitt®d  from  dressing.  Olives 


782 


SALADS. 


arc  liked  by  some  in  chicken  salad.  The  dish  may  be  very  taste- 
fully garnished  vith  sliced  lemon,  boiled  beets  sliced  and  cut  in 
Imcy  shapes,  Fiard-^boiled  eggs  in  slices,  or  use  the  white  rings  and 
yolk  slices  separately,  small  pickled  cucumbers,  olives,  strips  of 
anchovies,  and  small  lettuce  leaves,  celery  or  parsley ; combining 
any  two  or  more  as  fancy  dictates.  When  preparing  for  a large 
company,  turkey  may  be  used  to  better  advantage  than  chicken, 
there  being  so  much  more  meat  in  same  number  of  pounds.  If 
either  turkey  or  chicken  is  allowed  to  cool  in  water  in  which  it  is 
boiled  the  meat  will  be  more  juicy  and  tender  than  if  taken  from 
the  water  as  soon  as  done.  The  liquor  makes  very  excellent  soup, 
with  the  usual  additions,  and  should  be  saved  for  this  purpose. 
Some  claim  that  chicken  salad  made  after  the  following  rule  can  be 
mixed  two  or  three  days  before  using : Boil  one  chicken  tender 
and  chop  the  meat  moderately  fine,  also  the  whites  of  twelve  hard- 
boiled  eggs,  add  equal  quantities  of  chopped  celery  and  cabbage; 
mash  the  yolk  fine,  add  two  tablespoons  butter,  two  of  sugar,  one 
teaspoon  mustard,  pepper  and  salt  to  taste,  and  lastly  half  cup  good 
cider  vinegar ; pour  over  salad  and  mix  thoroughly.  The  Philadel- 
phia Dressinqi^  considered  very  nice  and  is  made  by  adding  to 
one  pint  boiling  water  a heaping  tablespoon  corn-starchy  mixed 
smooth  in  cold  water;  when  well  thickened  add  two  tablespoons 
from  the  top  of  the  chicken-liquid.  Remove  to  back  of  range  or 
table  and  add  the  beaten  yolks  of  five  eggs  and  continue  to  stir  till 
almost  cold.'  Prepare  a thin  dressing  by  rubbing  yolks  of  three 
hard-boiled  eggs,  very  fine,  adding  tablespoon  each  made  mustard 
and  pulverized  sugar  and  salt  to  taste,  with  a pinch  of  cayenne  and 
teaspoon  any  bottle  sauce.  Then  add  two  tablespoons  salad  oil 
and  half  pint  vinegar,  three  or  four  drops  at  a time  of  each,  alternat- 
ing as  in  Mayonnaise  Dressing.  Pour  two-thirds  of  this  over  the 
celery  and  chicken,  toss  up  lightly,  put  in  dish  and  add  the  rest  of 
thin  dressing  to  the  first  mixture,  mixing  and  placing  it  over  the  top 
of  salad.  ¥ or  Mayonnaise  Chicken  prepare  the  chicken  as 

above,  place  in  earthen  bowl  and  to  every  quart  add  two  tablespoons 
vinegar,  one  of  oil,  half  teaspoon  salt  and  quarter  teaspoon  pepper. 
Set  away  in  cold  place  an  hour  or  two  ; prepare 
the  celery  as  directed,  in  the  proportion  liked,  and 
put  in  ice-box  or  other  cool  place  until  time  to 
serve.  Make  a Mayonnaise  Dressing,  mix  the  chickp-a  saiad. 
chicken  and  celery  together  with  a part  of  the  dressing,  arrange  in 
a smooth  mound  on  flat  dish,  pour  remainder  of  Mayonaise  over,  and 
garnish  with  white  celery  leaves,  reserved  for  this  purpose,  with  a 
little  bouquet  of  the  leaves  stuck  on  top,  encircling  with  rows  of  capers 
and  bordering  with  slices  of  hard-boiled  eggs  as  shown  in  cut.  Or 
when  mixing  the  chicken  and  celery  add  half  gill  vinegar  and  a 
gill  and  a half  salad  oil  to  each  quart  salad,  with  pepper  and  salt 
to  taste ; then  make  into  a mound  or  place  on  a bed  of  lettuce  leaves. 


SALADS. 


783 


as  above,  and  pour  the  Mayonnaise  Dressing  over.  When  making 
for  large  parties,  or  when  the  chicken  is  dry  from  having  been  cut 
up  too  long,  first  pour  a Plain  Dressing  over  the  salad,  let  stand  an 
hour  or  two  and  drain  before  dishing  and  adding  the  Mayonnaise. 
But  when  lettuce  leaves  are  used,  the  vinegar  or  plain  dressing  must 
be  poured  over  the  chicken  alone  as  the  lettuce  wilts  so  soon,  and 
must  be  added  only  just  before  dishing  for  table. 

Crab  Salad. — Boil  three  dozen  hard-shell  crabs  twentj^'-five 
minutes,  let  cool,  remove  top  shell  and  tail,  and  quarter  the  remain- 
der. Pick  the  meat  out  carefully  with  nut-pick  or  kitchen  fork,  tak- 
ing that  also  from  the  large  claws,  and  the  fat  which  adheres  to  the 
top  shell ; add  an  equal  quantity  cut  celery  and  mix  with  a few 
spoonfuls  French  Dressing,  then  put  in  salad  bowl  and  mask  it  with 
Mayonnaise  Dressing.  Garnish  with  the  claws,  shrimps  and  hard- 
boiled  eggs  alternating  with  tufts  of  green.  For  Craw-dsh  Salads 
cook  and  prepare  the  fish  as  above,  removing  the  tail  part,  splitting 
in  two  and  taking  out  the  black  ligament.  Put  in  salad  bowl  on 
bed  of  shred  lettuce,  pour  Mayonnaise  Dressing  over,  garnish  with 
head  part  of  shells,  hard-boiled  eggs  and  tufts  of  green,  and  serve. 

Cucumber  Salad. — Put  the  cucumbers  on  ice  until  wanted  and 
in  paring  them  take  care  to  remove  all  the  green  inner  portion  of 
the  skin,  which  is  very  bitter,  first  cutting  off  the  end  where  so  much 
of  the  bitter  juice  is  secreted,  and  pare  them  lengthwise.  For  the 
simplest  of  cucumber  salads,  after  paring  slice  very  thin,  sprinkle  a 
little  salt  over  them,  and  let  stand  ten  minutes  ; or  lay  them  in  cold, 
salted  water  an  hour  before  serving ; then  drain  on  a cloth,  sprinkle 
over  a half  teaspoon  pepper  and  cover  with  vinegar;  or  pour  a 
French  or  Cream  Dressing  over.  ‘Or  after  preparing  the  cucumbers 
as  above  mix  two  tablespoons  salad  oil  or  ham  gravy  with  as  much 
vinegar  and  teaspoon  sugar,  and  add  to  the  cucumbers  with  teaspoon 
pepper,  stirring  well.  For  Cucumber  and  Onion  Salad  mix  sliced 
or  chopped  onions  with  the  cucumbers,  put  the  dressing  in  bottom 
of  salad  bowl,  place  the  sliced  cucumbers  in  middle  with  onions 
around,  and  mix  the  dressing  when  serving.  Lactiola  Dressing  is 
nice  for  this  salad.  For  Radish  Salad  prepare  and  dress  radishes 
same  as  cucumbers,  adding  a little  sugar  to  modify  their  sharpness. 
A simple  and  agreeable  Fruit  Salad  is  made  by  combining  goose- 
berries or  barberries  with  young  onions  and  cucumbers,  sliced,  serv- 
ing with  any  plain  dressing. 

Efjg  Salad. — Put  the  small  crisp  leaves  of  a head  of  lettuce  in 
salad  bowl,  slice  four  hard-boiled  eggs  over  them  and  over  these 
sprinkle  a dozen  chopped  capers ; serve  with  Sour  Cream  Dressing 
poured  over  all.  Or  chop  two  large  heads  of  lettuce  coarsely  with 
eight  hard-boiled  eggs  and  mix  with  a small  cup  rich  sweet  cream, 
or  two  tablespoons  best  salad  oil,  with  vinegar,  mustard,  pepper  and 
salt  to  taste.  A small  head  of  cabbage  may  be  substituted  for  the 


784 


SALADS. 


lettuce,  but  the  cabbage  must  be  thinly  shaved  with  a sharp  knife, 
not  chopped.  Cheese  Salad  is  made  the  same,  using  finely  minced 
cheese  instead  of  eggs,  and  always  making  with  lettuce.  Serve  with 
Eggless  Dressing.  A Mint  Salad  is  made  same  as  Egg  Salad,  add- 
ing six  leaves  mint  chopped  fine,  and  the  Foam  Dressing. 

Endive  Salad. — The  curled  endive  is  excellent  for  fall  and 
winter  salads.  Pick  the  leaves  over  carefully,  separate  the  green 
from  the  white,  blanch  the  latter  and  put  in  salad  bowl,  add  minced 
herbs  and  very  little  minced  onion  and  serve  with  French  Dressing. 
Or  take  equal  quantities  endive,  celery  and  cress.  Shred  the  celery 
after  cutting  in  inch  pieces,  mix  all  together  and  pile  high  in  a dish, 
pour  around  them  any  dressing  preferred  and  garnish  with  slices  of 
hard-boiled  eggs  and  boiled  beets. 

Fish  Salad. — Shred  a pound  cold  boiled  Lake  trout  into  pieces 
an  inch  square,  mix  with  half  a Mayonnaise  Dressing,  place  on  a 
plate  surrounded  with  tender  leaves  of  lettuce  to  be  eaten  with  it 
and  pour  remainder  of  dressing  over.  Or  mix  with  the  fish  an  equal 
quantity  of  cut  celery,  chopped  cabbage  or  shred  lettuce,  some  pre- 
ferring the  latter  for  fish  salads.  Any  kind  of  cooked  or  canned  fish 
can  be  served  same.  Three  salt  anchovies,  chopped  with  a dozen 
capers  may  be  added  before  mixing  in  the  dressing.  Using  Anchovy 
or  Tarragon  vinegar  makes  a nicer  dressing  for  fish  than  the  plain 
vinegar.  For  Codhsh  Salad  either  broil  or  boil  the  quantity  de- 
sired, and  when  cold  shred,  mix  with  shred  lettuce,  add  the  Mayon* 
naise  Dressing  and  serve  with  garnish  oT  thinly-sliced  lemons  hard- 
boiled  eggs,  etc.  For  a Shad  Foe  Salad  boil  three  roe  in  salted 
water  twenty  minutes,  when  cold  cut  in  thin  slices  and  let  stand 
in  the  pickle  given  in  Salmon  Salad  two  or  three  hours.  Then  serve 
arranged  in  a circle  on  a bed  of  lettuce  with  Ma3mnnaise  Dressing 
in  center  Roe  of  any  fish  may  be  used  and  is  nice  With  Tomatoes; 
after  boiling,  slice  thin  and  place  in  salad  bowl  with  alternate  layers 
sliced  tomatoes ; garnish  with  lettuce  and  sliced  hard-boiled  eggs 
and  serve  with  Creole  Dressing. 

Gelinola  Salad. — This  is  one  of  the  most  delicious  as  well  as 
ornamental  salads  and  is  made  with  fish,  shell  fish,  meats,  fruit, 
vegetables,  etc.  To  make  TIT7A  any  kind  of  cold,  cooked  fish 

may  be  used,  cut  in  pieces,  but  sardines  and  canned  shrimps  pre- 
pared whole  are  especially  ornamental ; make  a Jellied  Bouillon 
Dressing,  using  Tarragon  or  Anchovy  vinegar  if  obtainable,  instead 
of  the  plain  vinegar.  Rinse  a mold  and  pour  in  some  of  the  jelly, 
to  the  depth  of  third  of  an  inch  ; set  mold  in  a bed  of  pounded  ice, 
or  snow,  and  put  in  a cold  place ; when  hardened  lay  in  whole  fish, 
or  pieces,  in  any  design  wished,  not  letting  them  touch  the  sides  of 
mold ; then  fill  spaces  between  the  fish  with  more  jelly  until  the 
fish  begin  to  float,  and  when  hardened  repeat  as  above,  till  mold  is 
full.  Keep  dressing  from  hardening  while  using,  by  placing  pitches 


SALADS. 


785 


in  hot  water  as  described  in  Chicken  in  Jelly  ; although  if  bed  of  ice 
or  snow  is  used,  the  salad  soon  hardens  and  simply  keeping  the 
pitcher  on  kitchen  table  will  be  warm  enough  as  it  wants  to  be  half 
thickened  when  used.  Place  mold  on  ice  for  three  or  four  hours,  re- 
move as  directed,  and  serve  on  platter  garnished  with  parsley,  let- 
tuce, sliced  boiled  eggs,  beets,  etc.,  arranged  in  any  pretty  design. 
A Sardine  Dressing  may  be  prepared  and  a spoonful  placed  upon 
each  slice  when  served  at  table,  or  it  may  be  served  without  any 
dressing.  Or  With  Oysters^  slightly  cook  them,  or  sprinkle  with 
salt  and  pepper  and  let  stand  an  hour  or  two,  drain  and  make  same 
way,  adding  celery  cut  in  quarter  inch  dice  as  a border  to  the  layer 
of  oysters,  and  using  the  oyster  liquor  with  what  water  is  necessary 
in  place  of  the  water  for  the  Jellied  Dressing.  Celery  Vinegar  makes 
the  salad  nicer  than  plain  vinegar.  WifJi  Lobster^  make  same  as 
fish  and  the  coral  and  different  parts  can  be  arranged  in  the  jelly  to 
make  a very  handsome  dish.  With  Game^  Poultry,  or  Meat^  pre- 
pare as  with  fish,  using  cold,  cooked  ingredients  and  serving  at 
table  with  any  dressing  wished  or  without  any.  A harmoniously 
flavored  vinegar  may  be  used  in  the  dressing,  for  any  of  the  differ- 
ent salads  instead  of  the  plain  if  wished.  With  Fruit,  make  same, 
using  the  Jellied  Orange  Dressing  with  high-colored  fruit,  as  cur- 
rants, raspberries,  cherries,  strawberries,  blackberries,  etc.,  and  with 
slices  of  peaches,  pears,  apples,  etc.,  the  Jellied  Raspberry  Dressing, 
serving  former  with  or  without  the  Orange  Dressing  (liquid)  and 
the  latter  with  or  without  the  Raspberry  Dressing.  With  Yeffe- 
tables  prepare  in  same  manner,  using  cold  cooked  vegetables  with 
the  Jellied  Bouillon  Dressing,  and  where  pease,  dice  of  carrots,  white 
turnips,  beets,  etc.,  are  arranged  tastefully  the  effect  is  very  pleasing, 
or  use  any  of  the  green  vegetables,  such  as  lettuce,  celery,  etc.,  or 
either  kind  can  be  used  with  fish,  meat  or  poultry  and  be  found  an 
addition;  and  in  fact  many  combinations  can  be  made  with  differ- 
ent kinds  of  fruit,  different  kinds  of  meat,  etc.  It  is  not  at  all  diffi- 
cult to  make  only  somewhat  tedious,  but  one  will  be  fully  repaid 
for  all  the  trouble  in  both  the  taste  and  beauty  of  the  salad. 

Herring  Salad. — Skin  two  herring,  soak  overnight,  take  out 
bones  and  cut  in  quarter-inch  dice,  or  very  small  pieces  ; take  seven 
medium-sized  cold  boiled  potatoes,  slice  and  cut  as  above,  making 
two  or  three  times  as  much  cut  potato  as  herring ; then  cut  three 
red  beets  that  have  been  cooked,  peeled  and  placed  in  vinegar  over- 
night, in  dice  as  above  and  chop  fine  one  small  raw  onion,  mix 
lightly  and  to  this  add  two  or  three  boiled  eggs,  cutting  the  whites 
and  yolks  separately.  Before  mixing  reserve  in  separate  dishes 
some  of  the  herring,  potatoes,  beets  and  white  and  yolk  of  egg  with 
which  to  garnish  the  salad  when  ready  to  serve.  Beat  together  half 
cup  cream,  quarter  teaspoon  mustard,  saltspoon  pepper  and  tea- 
spoon sugar ; add  two  or  three  tablespoons  of  the  beet  vinegar  and 
pour  over  the  mixture,  tossing  it  lightly  together.  Put  on  platter, 
50 


786 


feALADS. 


smooth  over  and  then  place  two-inch  row’s  over  it  lengthwise  of  the 
reserved  ingredients,  arranging  the  colors  so  as  to  make  a very  pretty 
ornament,  and  surround  with  parsley.  The  width  of  row/s  can  be 
varied  to  suit  the  size  of  dish.  A few  sour  apples  and  roasted  veal, 
chopped,  may  be  added  to  salad.  Or,  prepare  the  herring  as  above  ; 
take  cup  each  cooked  green  pease,  and  string  beans,  cut  in  small  pieces, 
shelled  white  beans,  cooked  soft  and  dry,  boiled  red  beets  cut  in  dice 
and  tw’o  cups  cut  boiled  potatoes,  as  above.  Place  herring  in  center  of 
platter  and  put  vegetcxbles  in  little  mounds  around  it,  arranging  col- 
ors nicely,  placing  betw^een  each  a few  tender  lettuce  leaves  and  on 
top  of  each  a slice  of  hard-boiled  egg ; also  garnish  the  herring  in 
same  wuiy  Put  in  a cold  place  and  just  before  serving  pour  over 
slowly  about  half  pint  any  cold  salad  dressing.  A cup  each  cooked 
salsify  and  red  pickled  cabbage  may  be  added,  and  some  mix  all 
together  and  add  dressing  as  in  first  recipe,  reserving  some  of  the 
vegetables  to  use  in  little  mounds  as  a garnish.  For  preparing  her- 
ring for  frying,  or  cooking  in  any  w^ay,  it  is  always  nice  to  skin  first 
as  above.  The  salad  is  sometimes  dressed  with  a Syrup  Sauce^  a 
White  Sauce  made  with  water,  to  wdiich  tablespoon  each  baking 
molasses  and  vinegar  is  added,  but  the  latter  is  especially  nice  served 
hot  with  Fried  Breaded  Herring. 

Lettuce  Salad. — Wash  the  lettuce  carefully,  using  only  the  in- 
side tender  leaves,  and  wipe  with  a cloth  to  remove  all  grit.  It  is  a 
very  delicate  vegetable  and  easily  spoilt  by  careless  handling.  Tear 
into  small  pieces  or  use  wdiole  (never  cut  lettuce),  place  in  salad 
bowl  and  pour  over  a dressing  made  as  follows  : Take  yolks  of 
three  hard-boiled  eggs,  and  salt  and  mustard  to  taste  and  mash  fine  ; 
make  a paste  by  adding  desertspoon  olive  oil  or  melted  butter  (use 
butter  always  w^hen  k is  difficult  to  get  fresh  oil)  ; mix  thoroughly, 
and  then  dilute  by  adding  gradually  cup  vinegar.  Garnish  hy  slic- 
ing another  egg  and  laying  over  lettuce.  This  is  sufficient  for  about 
three  pints  lettuce.  Or  the  Bohemian,  Foam  or  French  Dressing 
may  be  used,  or  simply  salt,  sugar  and  vinegar,  or  sugar  and  cream. 
Powdered  sugar  may  also  be  sprinkled  over  the  lettuce  before  add- 
ing dressing.  Some  prefer  to  serve  the  salad  alone  and  add  dress- 
ing at  table.  Those  wdio  like  the  flavor  add  a chopped  onion. 
Sliced  or  chopped  radishes  and  cucumbers  are  also  used  in  lettuce 
salad  and  adding  thin  slices  of  cold  meat  or  flaked  fish  makes  a 
very  nice  dish  for  luncheon.  Chopped  celery  and  anchovies  are 
nice  additions  to  a plain  lettuce  salad,  or  add  a few  tarragon  leaves. 
Tarragon  has  a flavor  unlike  anything  else,  and  gives  to  lettuce 
salad  that  pleasing  flavor  peculiar  to  French  salads.  If  the  leaves 
cannot  be  had,  use  tarragon  vinegar  instead  of  plain  in  the  dressing. 
If  the  lettuce  is  at  all  wilted  place  in  very  cold  water  for  an  hour  or 
two.  Sliced  cucumbers,  hard-boiled  eggs,  pickled  beets,  nastur- 
tiums, radishes  and  cut  vegetable  flowers  are  used  for  garnishing. 
Cheese  is  generally  served  with  lettuce  salad,  and  when  latter  is 


SALADS. 


787 


dressed  at  table,  serve  small  dish  grated  cheese  with  it  to  be 
sprinkled  over  the  lettuce.  It  is  delicious  and  sometimes  crackers  or 
thin  bread  and  butter  accompany  it.  Cheese  crusts,  and  Cheese  Straws 
are  also  very  palatable  with  it.  Corn- salad  Saladi^  made  as  above 
using  corn-salad  instead  of  lettuce.  Currant  Salad  is  made  by 
mixing  fresh  ripe  currants  with  lettuce  and  the  French  Dressing. 

Lobster  Salad. — Crack  the  claws  of  a cooked  lobster  (see  Shell- 
fish) after  first  disjointing,  twist  off  head,  split  body  in  two  length 
wise,  pick  out  meat  in  bits  not  too  fine,  saving  coral  separate  ; tea.- 
a large  head  of  lettuce  into  pieces  about  two-inches  square,  and 
place  on  dish,  over  which  lay  the  lobster,  putting  the  coral  around 
the  outside.  For  dressing  for  meat  of  a lobster  weighing  about 
three  pounds,  beat  yolks  of  three  eggs,  add  four  tablespoons  salad 
oil,  dropping  it  in  very  slowly,  beating  all  the  time  ; then  add  a lit- 
tle salt,  cayenne  pepper,  half  teaspoon  mixed  mustard,  and  two 
tablespoons  vinegar.  Pour  this  over  the  lobster,  just  before  send- 
ing to  table.  Two  bunches  crisp  celery,  cut  into  small  dice,  may  be 
used  instead  of  the  lettuce.  Or  prepare  the  meat  and  celery  or  let- 
tuce as  above  and  pour  over  it  a Mayonnaise,  Bavarian  or  Eggless 
Cream  Dressing.  Some  reserve  the  green  fat,  work  it  into  a smooth 
paste,  mix  this  well  with  yolk  of  a raw  egg  and  add  the  mixture  to 
the  Mayonnaise.  When  celery  is  used  the  lobster  meat,  moistened 
with  a little  of  the  Mayonnaise,  and  celery  maybe  arranged  in  three 
layers  with  lettuce  leaves  at  bottom,  then  meat,  then  celery  and  fin- 
ish with  the  meat,  pouring  remainder  of  Mayonnaise  over  as  above. 
A law  olives  may  be  added  if  liked.  Some  reserve  pieces  of  the 
lobster  meat  to  be  used  in  garnishing,  and  having  arranged  the  salad 
on  a dish,  place  first  a row  of  sliced  cucumbers,  then  the  pieces  of 
lobster,  sliced  yolks  and  whites  of  hard-boiled  eggs,  the  coral  saved 
from  lobster  and  sliced  beets  placed  alternately,  or  arranged  in 
small  separate  bunches,  so  that  the  colors  contrast  nicel}^  Capers, 
olives  and  small  pickled  gherkins  are  also  used.  The  claws,  tail  and 
head  are  also  used  for  garnishing.  To  prepare  them,  open  the  shell 
of  the  tail  with  a can-opener,  without  mangling  the  flesh,  split  it 
and  remove  the  intestine  running  through  the  middle,  open  the 
claws  in  same  way,  and  use  the  meat  from  all  in  the  salad,  rub  the 
head  with  a little  oil  to  brighten  the  color  and  place  it  in  center  of 
dish  ; arrange  the  salad  around  it,  pour  the  dressing  over,  and  garn- 
ish with  the  claws,  tail,  coral,  small  lettuce  leaves  or  tufts  of  celery, 
with  the  addition  of  any  of  above  garnishes  mentioned.  The  eggs 
of  the  hen  lobster  should  be  carefully  removed  from  the  tail  pins 
and  sprinkled  over  the  salad  after  covering  with  the  Mayonnaise, 
which  may  also  be  colored  with  the  coral,  if  latter  is  not  wanted 
for  the  garnish,  or  serve  in  Salad  Shells  as  directed  in  preface.  For 
Cape  May  Salad  make  the  Aspic  Jelly  given  in  Dessert  Jellies  the 
day  before  the  salad  is  wanted.  Some  time,  before  ready  to  serve 
melt  two  tablespoons  butter  in  saucepan,  stir  in  one  of  flour  and 


788 


SALADS. 


add  by  degrees  a gill  stock  or  cold  water ; bring  to  boiling  point 
and  boil  rapidly  two  minutes,  remove  from  fire  and  add  tablesj^oon 
cream,  half  tablespoon  lemon  juice,  small  pinch  cayenne  and  little 
white  pepper  and  salt,  with  the  meat  of  lobster  cut  in  convenient- 
sized pieces,  some  add  a well-beaten  egg;  when  well  mixed  turn  out 
to  an  inch  in  depth  on  a plate,  make  smooth  with  a knife,  and  put 
away  until  perfectly  cold ; then  divide  it  into  six  parts  and  shape 
each  into  a cutlet  about  three  inches  long.  Prepare  lettuce  as 
above,  place  in  salad  bowl  and  pour  the  Mayonnaise  Dressing  over, 
sprinkle  with  a little  white  pep})er  and  salt.  Chop  the  aspic  jelly 
coarsely  and  arrange  a wall  of  it  around  sides  of  salad  bowl,  and 
within  this  {)lace  the  lobster  cutlets  in  a circle  with  one  of  the  feelers 
stuck  in  each,  and  the  head,  prepared  as  above,  in  the  center.  Have 
the  coral  of  lobster  dried  and  pounded  in  a mortar,  or  rolled  fine, 
and  sprinkle  a little  over  each  cutlet  and  remainder  over  the  jelly 
and  serve.  A very  handsome  dish.  To  make  Canned  Lobster  Salads 
take  one  can  of  lobster,  chopped  fine,  twelve  hard-boiled  eggs,  also 
chopped  fine,  mix  and  pour  over  a hot  Cream  Dressing,  tossing  all 
up  lightly  with  a fork. 

Meal  Salad. — Take  one  quart  cold  meat  of  any  kind,  which 
must  be  very  tender  ; cut  into  thin  slices,  then  into  small  bits  ; place  a 
layer  in  salad  bowl,  sprinkle  with  chopped  parsley,  cover  with  a 
layer  of  Italian  Dressing,  then  another  layer  of  meat,  chopped 
parsley  and  so  on  till  all  meat  is  used.  Cold  tongue  may  be  used 
instead  of  meat  and  Creole  Dressing  is  nice  with  any  meat  salad. 
Garnish  with  parsley  and  stand  in  cold  place  one  or  two  hours  be- 
fore serving.  A nice  Veal  Salad  is  made  by  cutting  cold  boiled 
veal  in  neat  strips,  or  pieces  of  even  size,  mix  it  with  celery  or  let- 
tuce and  pour  a Mayonnaise  Dressing  over.  Or  any  meat  may  be 
prepared  same.  For  11am  Salad  put  the  meat  prepared  as  above 
on  lettuce  leaves  neatly  arranged  in  bowl,  strew  a dozen  chopped 
capers  and  a few  tarragon  leaves  over  and  serve  with  Eggless  Dress- 
ing. A good  Beef  Salad  is  made  by  cutting  a pound  cold  rare  roast 
beef  and  a quarter  of  a boiled  beet  into  small  pieces,  mixing  both 
lightly  together  and  placing  in  pyramidal  shape  on  shred  lettuce 
leaves  in  salad  bowl  and  pouring  Swiss  Dressing  over.  For  a Meat 
and  Potato  Salad  add  to  one  half  the  quantity  of  meat  in  Beef 
Salad  a pint  cold  boiled  potatoes  cut  in  thin  slices,  mix  with  the 
Bacon  Dressing  and  serve.  The  flavor  of  these  salads  is  improved 
by  standing  an  hour  or  more.  For  Mutton  and  Carrot  Salads 
boil  six  young  carrots  till  tender,  drain,  cut  in  narrow  strips  and 
arrange  neatly  in  bottom  of  salad  bowl ; cut  half  pound  cold  boiled 
mutton  into  half-inch  pieces  and  put  it  around  the  carrots,  strew 
over  a cut  stalk  of  celery  and  a few  tarragon  leaves,  pour  a Cream 
Dressing  over  and  serve.  For  11am  Salad^^  cut  up  small  bits  boiled 
ham,  place  in  salad  bowl  with  shredded  inside  leaves  of  head  of  let- 
tuce and  add  a Sour  Cream  Dressing.  Or,  With  Brussels  Sprouts, 


SALADS. 


789 


wash  a quart  sprouts  well,  boil  twenty  minutes,  drain,  plunge  into 
cold  water,  drain  again  and  put  in  center  of  platter,  with  a quarter 
pound  finely-chopped  bam  around  and  a border  of  potato  salad  en- 
circling the  whole.  Pour  a French  Dressing  over,  sprinkle  with 
teaspoon  herbs  and  serve.  Game  Salad  is  made  as  any  of  above 
using  any  cold  cooked  game  wished  or  any  of  them  may  be  molded 
like  Gelinola  Salad. 

Nasturtium  Salad. — Shred  nasturtium  flowers  in  small  pieces, 
salt  and  pepper  well  and  pour  a Mayonnaise  Dressing  over.  Or 
mix  with  the  nasturtiums  a head  of  shred  lettuce  or  pint  water- 
cresses  with  three  chopped  hard-boiled  eggs  and  teaspoon  sugar. 
Put  in  dish  with  two  alternate  layers  of  Mayonnaise,  or  any  dress- 
ing liked,  and  garnish  with  a wreath  of  nasturtium  flowers  and 
bunch  of  same  in  center. 

Onion  Salad. — Slice  large  onions  in  thin  slices  and  sprinkle 
with  sugar;  let  stand  an  hour  or  two,  then  add  the  French  Dressing, 
or  simply  salt,  pepper  and  vinegar.  Or  With  Tomatoes  add  alter- 
nate layers  of  sliced  tomatoes,  sprinkling  with  sugar  if  wished ; 
then  finish  as  above,  letting  the  salad  stand  an  hour  or  more,  after 
dressing  is  added,  before  serving. 

Orange  Salad. — Do  not  peel  but  slice  thin  two  or  three  sour 
oranges  on  a dish,  remove  seeds  and  pour  over  them  a dressing  of 
three  tablespoons  salad  oil,  a dust  of  cayenne  pepper,  a little  salt  if 
wished  and  juice  of  one  lemon,  if  oranges  are  too  sweet,  with  grated 
rind  of  an  orange.  This  is  a delicious  acconipaniment  for  boiled  or 
roasted  game  or  poultiy.  For  a more  elaborate  salad,  peel  five 
oranges,  divide  into  the  natural  sections  without  breaking  the  pulp 
and  place  on  glass  dish , stone  a quarter  pound  muscatel  raisins, 
mix  them  with  two  tablespoons  sugar  and  two  each  orange  and 
lemon  juice  and  mingle  them  with  the  oranges  adding  juice  of  an- 
other orange  if  not  moist  enough.  Any  spice  liked  may  be  added, 
but  must  be  added  sparingly.  Lemon  Salad  is  made  as  first  re- 
cipe, using  lemons  instead  of  oranges,  and  some  add  a few  shredded 
lettuce  leaves.  For  Florida  Salad.,  place  in  salad  bowl  alternate 
layers  of  sliced  oranges  and  bananas;  pour  over  the  Orange  Dress- 
ing and  put  on  ice  or  in  cold  place  three  or  four  hours.  Any  har- 
monious combination  of  fruits  may  be  prepared  same  way.  Peaches 
and  Pine-apples.,  Raspberries  and  Currants  or  Strawberries  and 
Oranges^  using  either  the  Orange  or  Raspberry  Dressing,  always 
remembering  that  all  Fruit  Salads  must  stand  two  or  three  hours 
before  serving,  to  be  in  their  prime. 

Oyster  Salad. — Prepare  oysters  as  directed  in  Shell-fish,  using 
the  smaller  ones,  and  after  draining  (do  not  cook)  add  to  them 
chopped  celery,  cover  with  Mayonnaise  Dressing  and  when  very 
cold  serve.  Or  put  the  liquor,  that  drains  from  them  over  the  fire. 


790 


^ALADS. 


adding  a little  vinegar;  skim  and  when  hot  put  in  the  oysters  and 
let  boil  up  once  to  not  cook  them;  then  skim  out  oysters 

and  cool  quickly  by  plunging  into  cold  water  a moment  and  drain- 
ing, or  by  setting  the  plate  on  ice  ; some  let  them  cool  in  liquor  in 
which  they  were  ])oiled,  to  which  may  be  added  instead  of  the  vine- 
gar a little  salt,  pepper,  butter  and  blade  of  mace.  When  the  oysters 
are  cold  mix  lightly  with  an  equal  quantity  cut  celery  or  shred  let- 
tuce, and  two  pickled  cudumbers,  cut  fine,  chopping  the  oysters 
coarsely,  if  liked,  or  leaving  them  whole.  Turn  the  cooked  oystei 
liquor  over,  and  just  before  serving  stir  in  a Swiss  or  Mayonnaise 
Dressing,  tossing  up  lightly  with  a fork,  or  add  only  half  the  dress- 
ing and  after  dishing  put  the  remainder  over,  though  most  prefer  to 
pour  on  all  the  dressing.  After  plumping  and  draining  the  oysters 
some  lay  them  for  two  hours  or  more  in  a mixture  of  three  table- 
spoons vinegar,  one  of  oil,  half  teaspoon  salt,  quarter  as  much  pep- 
per and  tablespoon  lemon  juice.  Some  use  half  as  much  celery 
as  oysters,  but  the  quantity  may  be  varied  as  liked.  For  Phila- 
delphia Salads  take  three  dozen  fresh  oysters,  two  heads  celery 
with  part  of  their  green  tops  and  about  half  as  much  tender  white 
cabbage ; wash  celery  and  cabbage,  put  them  into  boiling  salted 
water,  let  boil  five  minutes,  pour  off  water,  drain,  and  chop  them 
fine.  Prepare  the  oysters  as  directed  above.  When  to  be  served, 
season  chopped  celery  and  cabbage  slightly  with  oil  and  vinegar ; 
spread  part  of  it  in  a dish,  or  in  individual  dishes,  place  the  oysters 
in  it  side  by  side  and  the  rest  of  the  celery  on  top  of  them ; smooth 
the  top  a little  and  pour  a Mayonnaise  Dressing  over.  Pickled  or 
minced  oysters  do  very  well  for  this.  White  celery  leaves,  oysters, 
crabs,  cut  vegetables,  hard-boiled  eggs,  sliced  lemons,  etc.,  are  used 
for  garnishing.  A combination  salad  known  as  Brussels  Salad  is 
made  of  lobsters,  oysters,  chicken  and  tongue  mixed  with  celery. 

Pickle  Salad. — To  one  quart  cabbage,  chopped  fine,  take  half 
pirt  pickled  green  tomatoes,  gill  pickled  green  peppers,  and  half 
pint  onions,  all  chopped  fine  and  mixed  together.  Strain  off  .and 
throw  away  all  juice  and  add  tablespoon  mixed  mustard,  half  table- 
spoon ground  ginger,  quarter  tablespoon  each  cinnamon  and  cloves, 
quarter  ounce  celery  seed,  quarter  pound  brown  sugar,  half  table- 
sp^-on  salt  and  pint  vinegar.  Boil  slowly  ten  minutes  and  pour 
over  the  cabbage.  Good  at  the  end  of  a week.  When  ready  to 
serve  pour  over  a gill  of  Potato  Dressing  or  any  dressing  preferred. 
Instead  of  above  mixture  any  chopped  pickle  may  be  used. 

Potato  Salad. — This  salad  may  be  prepared  with  cooked  pota- 
toes, either  cold  or  hot,  though  many  cooks  differ  on  this  point 
some  maintaining  that  the  potatoes  should  always  be  hot,  while 
others  meet  with  most  gratifying  success  in  using  them  cold.  It  is 
cl?.*med  that  a salad  made  from  hot  potatoes  will  keep  nicely  three 
or  four  days,  while  that  from  the  cold  vegetable  will  soon  turn  dark. 


SALADS. 


791 


For  a plain  salad  either  chop  the  potatoes  or  slice  thinly  as  prefer- 
red, add  a small  onion,  chopped  or  sliced,  to  each  pint  potato,  ar- 
range them  on  dish  without  breaking  slices  and  serve  with  a good 
salad  dressing  poured  over,  or  the  dressing  is  nice  added  in  alter- 
nate layers  wuth  the  potato.  Some  grate  the  onion  over  the  potato, 
which  may  be  cut  in  strips  if  preferred  ; or  omit  the  onion  and  serve 
with  a French  Dressing  with  the  addition  of  celery  salt.  Some 
add  a few  blanched  and  quartered  almonds  and  hickory-nut  meats. 
Or  sliced  lemon  or  anchovies  may  be  added.  Those  who  are  fond 
of  onions  may  use  one-third  onion  to  two-thirds  potatoes  and  cover 
with  a Mayonnaise  Dressing.  Chopped  lettuce  with  the  onions  im- 
proves the  salad.  When  the  onions  are  not  used,  chopped  parsley 
is  a nice  addition,  and  it  may  also  be  used  with  the  onions.  Some 
like  bits  of  fried  salt  pork  mixed  with  the  potatoes.  An  excellent 
salad  is  made  by  mixing  a quart  potatoes,  pared  and  cut  in  thin 
slices  while  hot,  with  tw^o  tablespoons  each  grated  onion  and  chop- 
ped parsley,  four  of  chopped  beet,  and  enough  of  any  preferred 
dresssing  to  make  moist;  the  Sardine  Dressing  is  very  nice  for  this. 
The  salad  is  better  if  vegetables  are  mixed  and  let  stand  two  or  three 
hours  before  adding  dressing,  keeping  in  a cool  place.  The  beet 
may  be  omitted  if  not  liked,  also  the  onions  and  parsley,  and  chop" 
ped  celery  used  instead,  either  raw"  or  cooked.  Or  take  two  cups 
boiled  potatoes,  cup  cucumber  pickles,  a large  onion,  and  tw"o  or 
three  hard  boiled  eggs,  all  chopped,  mix  and  serve  with  any  dress- 
ing liked.  Or  cut  six  cold  boiled  potatoes  into  dice ; put  a heap- 
ing tablespoon  butter  in  saucepan  and  when  browm  pour  over  and 
mix  lightly  through  the  potatoes,  adding  one  or  two  stalks  of  celery 
cut  small.  Serve  with  Cream  Dressing.  Or  boil  four  large  Irish 
potatoes,  peel  and  mash  smooth  ; mince  tw  o onions,  and  add  to  the 
potato,  make  a dressing  of  the  yolks  of  three  hard-boiled  eggs,  one 
small  teacup  of  vinegar,  teaspoon  white  pepper,  twm  of  salt,  one 
tablespoon  each  celery  seed,  prepared  mustard  and  melted  butter 
and  two  of  sugar;  mix  well  with  the  potato,  and  garnish  with  slices 
of  egg  and  celery  or  lettuce.  Or  With  Beets^  use  an  equal  amount 
potatoes  and  beets  chopping  and  slicing  both  and  covering  with  an 
Eggless  Cream  Dressing  This  dressing  is  also  nice  for  simple  Beet 
Salad,  served  either  warm  or  cold.  With  Cabbage,  chop  potatoes 
and  add  a half  head  of  cabbage  sliced  fine  or  chopped.  Better  if 
mixed  two  hours  before  using.  Chives  are  very  nice  in  potato  salad, 
and  are  excellent  in  all  vegetable  salads.  More  vinegar  is  required 
in  dressing  for  potato  salad  than  any  other  and  more  dressing  must 
be  used  as  the  potato  absorbs  more  "liquid  than  cabbage  or  lettuce. 
In  other  salads  the  proportion  is  about  one  part  vinegar  to  four  of 
oil,  but  for  potatoes  an  equal  quantity  of  each  is  generally  used, 
never  less  than  three  tablespoons  vinegar  to  four  of  oil,  and  for  a 
pint  of  potatoes  some  use  a half  cup  vinegar  to  one  tablespoon  oil. 
For  Japanese  Salad,  take  two-thirds  sliced  boiled  potatoes  and  one- 


792 


SALADS. 


third  cold  boiled  mussels  or  oysters,  adding  any  finely-chopped 
herbs  wished,  and  simply  a dressing  of  oil,  vinegar,  pepper  and  salt, 
or  any  dressing  may  be  used,  and  when  wished  extra  nice,  add  a 
layer  of  sliced  truffles  over  the  top.  Let  stand  tw^o  or  three  hours 
in  a cool  place,  then  serve. 

Russian  Salad  —Use  white  turnips,  carrots,  beets,  string  beans  or 
peas(-,  Iresh  or  canned.  Cut  turnips  and  carrots  crosswise  in  inch 
slices,  and  with  tin  tube,  small-sized  apple  corer  will  do,  cut  in 
little  cylinders,  and  cook  in  separate  saucepans  in  salted  boiling- 
water  till  tender ; drain,  and  place  in  cold  water  till  ready  to  use. 
Cook  the  beans,  beets  and  pease  as  In  recipes  given  in  Vegetables, 
;’nd  then  drain  and  finish  as  above;  when  canned  pease  and  beans 
are  used,  merely  drain  them.  To  serve,  place  spoonfuls  of  each 
kind  on  a platter,  tastefully  arranging  the  colors,  and  pour  over 
enough  French  Dressing  to  moisten  nicely. 

Salmon  Salad. — To  make  from  fresh  salmon,  broil  two  salmon 
steaks,  or  take  cold  boiled  salmon,  break  into  flakes,  or  cut  in  two- 
inch  pieces  and  add  little  salt,  pepper  and  two  tablespoons  lemon 
juice  or  vinegar,  some  add  a little  chopped  onion,  parsley,  and  salad 
oil,  and  let  stand  from  one  to  three  hours.  Then  half  fill  a salad 
bowl  with  lettuce,  put  in  the  prepared  fish  and  garnish  with  hard- 
boiled  eggs,  stoned  olives  and  a few  spiced  oysters.  Or  place  the 
prepared  salmon  in  a circle  on  the  lettuce  leaves,  pour  a Mayon- 
naise Dressing  in  center  and  sprinkle  capers  over  the  whole.  Seme 
season  the  lettuce  with  Italian  Dressing  before  dishing.  If  salmon 
is  boiled  purposely  for  salad  it  can  be  made  into  neater  slices  by 
cutting  before  cooking,  then  put  in  ware  basket  and  set  in  warm 
water  to  wdhch  a little  vinegar  and  salt  has  been  added,  bring  to  a 
boil  and  simmer  gently  until  tender.  Pike,  blue-fish  and  flounders 
make  nice  salads  prepared  same  wa}^  For  Canned  Salmon  Salad, 
put  three  stalks  celery,  cut,  in  solid  bowl,  arrange  neatly  ovf-r  it  a 
half  pound  canned  salmon,  turn  a Mayonnaise  Dressing  over,  garn- 
ish and  serve.  Or  arrange  the  salad  on  a cup  chojjped  cabbage, 
spread  in  a dish,  and  pour  over  a mixture  of  teaspoon  each  salt, 
sugar,  butter,  and  mustard  and  half  cup  vinegar,  or  the  Eggless 
Cream  Dressing  is  especially  delicious  for  salmon.  For  another 
nice  salad,  season  a quart  cooked  salmon  with  teaspoon  salt,  one- 
third  teaspoon  pepper,  three  tablespoons  oil,  one  of  vinegar  and  two 
i)f  lemon  juice;  let  stand  on  ice  at  least  two  hours  i^rrange  thf3 
salmon  in  center  of  dish  v/ith  cooked  asparagus  }*<)ints,  drained  and 
cooled,  around  it  and  cover  the  fish  with  a cn[)  Mayonnaise  Dress- 
ing. Garnish  with  points  of  fern  on.  Cook^-d  green  pease  may  be 
used  instead  of  asparagus.  Or  make  a dressing  of  yolks  of  three 
eggs,  half  cup  each  cream,  and  vim*gar,  two  teaspoons  brown  sugar, 
salt,  pepper,  and  celery  seed  to  taste;  boil  thick  like  custard,  ar  d 
pour  over  the  salmon.  , Another  way  of  preparing  is  to  set  a can 


SALADS. 


793 


salmon  in  kettle  of  boiling  water,  and  boil  twenty  minutes ; take 
out  of  can  and  put  in  deep  dish,  pour  off  juice  or  oil,  put  a few  clove: 
in  and  around  it,  sprinkle  salt  and  pepper  over,  cover  with  cold 
vinegar,  and  let  stand  a day  ; then  take  it  from  vinegar  and  lay  on 
platter.  Prepare  a dressing  as  follows  : Beat  yolks  of  two  eggs 
boiled  hard  and  mashed  fine  as  possible ; add  gradually  tablespoon 
mustard,  three  of  melted  butter,  or  the  best  salad  oil,  a little  salt 
and  pepper  (either  black  or  cayenne),  and  vinegar  to  taste.  Beat 
mixture  a long  time  and  some  like  addition  of  lemon  juice  and  a 
little  brown  sugar ; cover  the  salmon  thickly  with  a part  of  the 
dressing,  tear  up  very  small  the  crisp  inside  leaves  of  lettuce,  add 
them  with  remainder  of  mixture,  and  two  or  three  large  pieces  of 
lettuce  placed  around  the  salmon,  and  serve.  Pickled  beets,  sliced 
or  cut  in  stars  or  other  fancy  shapes  make  a pretty  garnish  with 
sliced  hard-boiled  eggs,  and  slices  of  lemon  are  always  appropriate, 
either  alone  or  arranged  alternately  with  the  slices  of  beets.  Salmon 
salad  is  nice  served  in  Salad  Shells. 

Sardine  Salad. — Wash  the  oil  from  six  sardines,  remove  skin 
and  bone  and  squeeze  a little  lemon  juice  over  them,  put  a layer  of 
lettuce  leaves  in  salad  bowl  and  over  them  the  fish  with  two  chrp- 
ped,  hard-boiled  eggs  scattered  over  and  serve  with  Sardine  Dress- 
ing. Or  arrange  sliced  cucumber  pickles  and  sliced  hard-boiled 
eggs  with  the  fish  around  the  center  of  lettuce  leaves  and 
serve  same.  Or  first  place  any  kind  of  cooked  fish  on  a bed  of 
crisp  lettuce  and  cover  with  the  Sardine  Dressing  ; split  six  sardines, 
remove  bones  and  arrange  them  over  the  fish  and  dressing  so  that 
the  ends  meet  in  center  of  dish.  Enrich  the  whole  with  thin  slices 
' of  lemon  and  garnish  with  parsley  or  lettuce  ; or  With  Tomatoes,  to 
one  box  sardines,  take  two  or  three  large  ripe  tomatoes,  sliced,  and 
two  medium-sized  onions,  cut  fine ; arrange  in  salad  bowl  and  sea- 
son with  teaspoon  each  salt  and  Worcestershire  Sauce,  two  table- 
spoons sugar,  a little  pepper,  half  cup  vinegar  and  add  chow-chow 
to  taste.  Toss  up  lightly  and  when  very  cold,  serve.  This  is  de- 
licious. The  Creole  Dressing  is  also  nice  or  any  dressing  may  be  used. 
Sardines  used  as  described  in  Gelinola  Salad  make  an  ornamental 
as  well  as  an  appetizing  salad. 

Scallop  Salad. — Soak  twenty-five  scallops  in  salt  water  half  an 
hour ; rinse  them  in  cold  water,  and  boil  twenty  minutes  ; drain,  cut 
them  in  thin  slices,  mix  with  an  equal  quantity  sliced  celery,  cover 
with  Mayonnaise  Dressing,  garnish  and  serve. 

Shrimp  Salad. — Wheil  buying  canned  shrimps  select  those 
labeled  simply  shrimps,  not  potted  shrimps,  as  the  latter  are  chop- 
ped, and  are  not  so  nice  for  salad  as  the  whole  ones,  even  when  they 
are  to  be  chopped  in  preparing.  For  a plain  salad  take  one  and 
one-third  bunches  celery  and  one  can  shrimps ; cut  celery  in  fine 
''Teces  and  wash;  halve  or  chop  the  shrimps,  or  pick  them  in  pieces 


794 


SALADS. 


as  preferred,  mix,  sprinkle  with  a little  salt  and  pour  a Mayonnaise 
Dressing  over.  Shred  lettuce  may  be  used  instead  of  celery.  If  to 
be  served  whole  take  the  shrimps  carefully  from  the  bag  in  which 
they  are  put  into  can,  remove  all  bite  of  : hell  or  black  specks,  tak- 
ing care  not  to  break  their  form,  pile  them  high  on  a bed  of  shred 
lettuce  or  cut  celery  in  salad  bowl,  pour  Bavarian  Dressing  over 
and  serve  garnished  with  border  of  lettuce  leaves  or  celery  “^ops, 
with  a tuft  in  center ; or  serve  in  the  Salad  Shells.  Should  be  mixed 
just  before  serving  or  the  fine  appearance  of  the  shrimp  will  be 
spoiled.  Before  mixing  some  shake  the  shrimps  in  a bowl  with  two 
tablespoons  each  oil  and  vinegar,  to  make  them  look  shining  and 
moist,  and  then  put  Mayonnaise  on  in  strips  lengthwise  in  center  of 
each  fish,  but  not  covering  them.  When  fresh  shrimps  are  used, 
boil  twenty-five  minutes,  or  until  they  change  color,  putting  them 
in  wire  basket,  if  one  is  at  hand  ; open  and  throw  away  shells,  and 
make  the  salad  as  above.  Or  put  two  or  three  sliced  tomatoes  on  a 
layer  of  lettuce  leaves  in  salad  bowl,  lay  the  shrimps  on  these  and 
pour  Red  Mayonnaise  Dressing  over  all.  Shrimps  are  nice  molded 
as  in  Gelinola  Salad.  Some  add  salt,  a little  lemon  thyme,  mint 
and  a bay  leaf  to  water  in  which  shrimps  are  boiled. 

Sweet-bread  Sa^ad. — Boil  a calf's  sweet-bread  until  tender 
and  pick  it  into  small  pieces ; shred  two  heads  lettuce,  and  put 
in  salad  bowl  alternate  layers  of  lettuce,  sweet-bread  and  Sv/iss 
Dressing  with  whites  of  hard-boiled  eggs  sliced  on  top. 

TomaAo  Salad. — Take  skin,  juice,  and  seeds  from  nice,  fred: 
tomatoes,  chop  what  remains  with  celery,  and  add  the  Frei  c. 
Dressing.  Or  arrange  red  and  yellow  sliced  tomatoes  alternately 
glass  dish  on  a bed  of  lettuce,  pour  over  Cream  Dressing,  and  de.ct 
a little  pepper  on  top.  Or  sprinkle  a teaspoon  chopped  tarragon 
over  three  sliced  tomatoes,  with  a little  chopped  onion  if  liked,  and 
cover  with  a Cream  or  Mayonnaise  Dressing;  or  omit  the  tarragon 
and  onion  and  serve  a teaspoon  Mayonnaise  Dressing  spread  on 
each  slice,  neatly  arranging  on  fiat  dish.  Mr//  be 
garnished  with  a delicate  border  of  parsley,  vdth.  a 
few  sprigs  laid  between  the  sliced  tomatoes.  Somo 

Tomato  Baiad.  dip  the  tomato  into  a mixture  of  three  tablcr;poonrs 
vinegar  to  one  of  oil,  pepper  and  salt ; then  drain  well  .and  mix  them 
in  the  Mayonnaise  Dressing.  For  a Gucuinber  and  ±omato  Salad, 
peel  and  slice  a five-inch  cucumber  into  very  thin  slices  ; put  them 
in  bowl  with  half  teaspoon  salt,  and  tAVo  tablespoons  vinegar  and 
set  aside.  Scald  and  skin  one  large  or  two  small  tomatoes  and  put 
them  in  cold  water  a few  minutes  to  cool ; line  salad  boAvl  with  let- 
tuce, drain  cucumbers  from  the  pickle  and  put  them  in  bowl ; wipe 
tomatoes  and  cut  into  slices ; put  them  on  top  of  the  cucumber, 
pour  a salad  dressing  over  it,  and  serve.  For  Creole  Salad,  mix 
together  equal  quantities  boiled  onion,  boiled  potato  and  stewed  to- 
mato. add  a little  Creole  Dressing  and  serve  warm. 


SALADS. 


795 


Turnip  Salad. — Peel  and  slice  three  or  four  turnips  very  thin 
and  soak  overnight ; next  morning  change  the  water  and  soak  three 
or  four  hours  longer;  then  cut  up  very  fine  and  dress  as  Cold  Slaw, 
adding  celery  salt  or  seed,  if  liked,  or  pour  over  a French  Dressing. 
A nice  salad  is  made  of  Turnip  Tops  after  they  begin  to  sprout  in 
the  cellar,  and  some  put  them  in  a dark  "warm  cellar  for  this  pur- 
pose.  When  sprouts  are  three  or  four  inches  long  cut  them  off; 
pick  leaves  from  stems,  and  pour  hot  water  over  them ; let  remain  a 
moment,  then  plunge  into  cold  water;  place  sprouts  in  colander  to 
drain  and  send  to  table  with  Bacon  Dressing  poured  over. 

Vegetable  Salad. — Take  any  cold  vegetables  left  from  a meal, 
such  as  potatoes,  pease,  string  beans,  shell  beans,  turnips,  carrots, 
beets,  etc.,  chill  them  on  ice,  cut  the  larger  ones  with  vegetable-cutter, 
arrange  on  dish,  cover  with  Mayonnaise  Dressing  or  any  preferred 
and  serve.  Or  cut  in  dice  six  boiled  potatoes,  a small  beet,  half  a 
small  carrot  and  half  turnip;  mix  all  thoroughly,  sprinkle  with 
teaspoon  salt,  unless  vegetables  were  salted  in  cooking,  and  mix 
with  a Lactiola  Dressing.  For  Red  Vegetable  Salad  take  one  pint 
each  cold  boiled  potatoes  and  beets,  a pint  uncooked  red  cabbage, 
six  tablespoons  of  oil,  ( ight  of  red  vinegar  (the  pickle  from  the 
beets),  two  teaspoons  salt  or  as  above,  and  half  teaspoon  pepper. 
Cut  the  potato  in  thin  slices,  the  beets  fine,  and  slice  the  cabbage  as 
thin  as  possible,  mix  all  together,  let  stand  in  cold  place  one  hour 
and  then  serve  with  the  French  Dressing  lightly  mixed  through. 
Bed  cabbage  and  celery  may  be  used  together.  For  a Boston  Salad, 
ai-range  as  many  different  kinds  of  vegetables  as  possible  on  a round 
plate,  wheel  fashion,  each  spoke  being  composed  of  one  kind  of 
vegetables,  w^hich  may  be  repeated  in  regular  order,  with  half  a 
hard-boiled  egg.  cut  crosswise,  representing  the  hub,  and  the  dress- 
ing encircling  it  for  the  rim.  When  only  five  ingredients  are  used, 
arrange  in  form  of  a star  or  as  fancy  dictates. 

Water  -Cress  Salad. — Pick  over  carefully,  removing  leaves,  root 
fibres,  and  all  large  stems ; ’\7ash,  drain  and  place  in  salad  bowl,  chop 
a jmung  onion  fine  and  strev/  over,  cover  with  a French  Dressing 
and  serve.  Some  cut  the  cress  into  inch  pieces,  mix  the  onion  and 
dressing  with  it  and  serve  in  individual  dishes.  Dandelion  Salad 
is  made  the  same,  letting  the  dandelions  stand  in  water  overnight, 
adding  two  minced  onions  to  two  quarts ; or  first  cook  the  dandelions 
as  for  greens,  and  then  when  cold,  cover  with  any  dressing  liked. 
For  a Hop  Salad,  gather  hop  sprouts  before  the  heads  develop,  soak 
half  an  hour  in  slightly  salted  water,  drain,  boil  ten  minutes,  plunge 
into  cold  water  and  serve  with  a French  Dressing.  May  be  served 
either  hot  or  cold.  If  to  be  served  hot,  reheat  after  draining  Irom 
the  cold  water.  For  a nice  garnish  for  any  vegetable  salad,  cut  a 
boiled  beet  into  round  slices  and  place  around  the  dish,  each  slice 
overlapping  another.  At  each  corner  place  an  olive  with  an  anchovy 
twisted  around  each. 


796 


SALADS. 


Cold  Slaw. — Slice  cabbage  very  fine,  season  with  salt,  pepper, 
and  a little  sugar ; pour  over  vinegar  and  mix  thoroughly.  It  is 
nice  served  in  the  center  of  a platter  with  fried  oysters  around  it. 
Or  cover  the  seasoned  cabbage  with  a Potato  Dressing.  Or®  for 
Whipped  Cream  Slavj^  chop  cabbage  fine  and  dress  as  above,  then 
cover  with  plenty  whipped  cream,  sweetened ; it  is  nicer  to  first 
place  slaw  in  the  individual  dishes  and  then  cover  about  an  inch 
deep  with  the  whipped  cream.  Or  for  a Cream  Dressing^  take  two 
tablespoons  whipped  cream  and  sugar,  and  four  of  vinegar ; beat 
well  and  pour  over  cabbage,  previously  cut  very  fine  and  seasoned. 

Cream  Slaw. — Put  half  pint  vinegar,  tablespoon  each  sugar 
and  butter  in  saucepan.  When  hot  add  half  pint  sour  cream,  pre- 
viously mixed  with  one  egg  and  half  teaspoon  flour ; let  boil  and 
pour  over  twm  quarts  cabbage  cut  fine  and  seasoned  wdth  half  pep- 
per and  salt  and  a teaspoon  ground  mustard.  Serve  hot. 

Jelly  Border  for  Salad. — Pour  enough  liquid  Aspic  Jelly  in 
crown  mold  to  make  a layer  half  an  inch  deep  ; wdien  hard  arrange 
on  the  jelly  dainty  shapes  of  cooked  carrot  and  beet,  cut  with  vege- 
table-cutter, and  white  of  hard-boiled  eggs  in  rings  ; add 
carefully  twm  tablespoons  more  of  the  jelly,  having 
kept  it  ^varm  by  placing  in  pan  of  hot  water.  When 
hardened,  fill  with  remainder  of  jelly  and  set  away  until 
ready  to  serve.  Wrap  a to^vel  wet  in  warm  water 
urowa  Aioiu  arouud  the  mold,  turn  the  jelly  out  very  carefully 
and  fill  center  with  any  nice  salad.  Boned  Fowl  or  Marbled  Veal 
can  also  be  served  in  the  center. 

Kennebec  Butter. — This  is  one  of  the  nicest  preparations  to 
use  in  salad  dressings,  adding  oil,  vinegar  and  yolks  of  eggs  as  for 
Mayonnaise.  To  make  take  equal  quantities  chervil,  tarragon, 
chi  VPS  and  pepper-grass,  about  a quart  in  all,  add  a little  Avater  and 
scald  a minute  or  two,  then  drain  very  dry.  Pound  in  bowl  two  each 
hard-boiled  eggs,  anchovies  and  small  pickled  cucumbers  and  a 
tablespoon  capers,  without  any  vinegar;  add  the  herbs,  a small 
clove  of  garlic  and  salt  and  white  pepper  to  taste,  with  a pinch  of 
cayenne ; rub  all  through  a puree  sieve  and  mix  well  with  it  three- 
quarters  of  a pint  best  butter  and  tablespoon  tarragon  vinegar ; if 
wanted  a brighter  green  add  a little  Spinach  or  Parsley  Coloring 
(page  180).  Some  add  a tablespoon  or  two  of  oil.  For  a less 
piquant  butter  known  as  Paris  BuUei\  omit  the  eggs,  anchovies, 
cucumbers  and  capers  and  use  half  pint  more  butter. 

Fringed.  Celery. — Cut  stalks  into  two-inch  pieces  ; stick  several 
coarse  needles  into  top  of  a cork ; di  aw  half  of  each  piece  of  celery 
through  the  needle  several  times.  When  all  the  fibrous  parts  are 
separated,  l^y  the  celery  in  cold  place  to  curl  and  crisp,  and  use  as 
a garnish  for  salads,  meats,  chicken,  etc. 


SHELL-FISH. 


797 


SHELL-FISH. 


To  thoroughly  enjoy  and  appreciate  shell-fish  one  must  live  on 
the  coast ; and  yet  transportation  has  been  so  far  perfected  that  they 
are  found  quite  fresh  in  almost  every  place.  Of  course  the  canned  goods 
are  al  wa  vs  obtainable.  The  oyster  is  m ore  used  than  any  of  the  others 
and  there  is  not  a lover  of  them  who  does  not  heartily  sympathize  with 
the  boy  who  wanted  to  spell  August  “0-r-g-u-s-t,”  in  order  to  bring 
it  into  the  list  of  the  months  which  contain  an  ^‘r”  in  all  of  which 
oysters  are  in  season.  The  delicious  bivalves  furnish  an  important, 
and,  in  most  localities,  a not  expensive  article  of  food ; and  the  ease 
with  which  they  are  prepared  for  table,  and  great  variety  of  ways  in 
which  they  may  be  cooked  and  served,  make  them  a great  favorite 
with  housekeepers.  To  judge  whether  clams  and  oysters  are  fresh 
insert  a knife,  and  if  the  shell  instantly  closes  firmly  on  the  knife 
they  are  fresh.  If  it  shuts  slowly  and  faintly  or  not  at  all  they  are 
dying  or  dead  ; or  another  test  is  that  when  fresh,  the  shell  is  firmly 
closed  ; if  open  the  oyster  is  dead  and  unfit  for  use.  Oysters  in  the 
shell  may  be  kept  in  a cool  cellar,  and  occasionally  sprinkled  with 
salt  water.  The  small-shelled  variety  have  the  finest  flavor.  For 
the  freshness  of  canned  oysters  it  is  necessary  to  trust  the  dealer, 
but  never  buy  cans  the  sides  of  which  are  swollen.  In  preparing 
them  for  cooking  or  for  table,  carefully  remove  all  hits  of  shell. 
When  cooking,  some  do  not  skim  at  all,  others  only  slightly,  claim- 
ing that  a great  deal  of  the  rich  flavor  is  lost  by  so  doing ; and  with 
good  fresh  oysters,  and  none  other  should  be  used,  it  is  not  neces- 
sary. Never  salt  oysters  for  soups  or  stews  tilljust  before  removing 
them  from  the  fire,  or  they  will  shrivel  up  and  be  hard,  and  add  but- 


798 


SHELL-FISH. 


ter  at  same  time  as  too  much  cooking  makes  butter  oily.  Roasting 
in  shell  best  preserves  natural  flavor.  Always  serve  immediately 
after  cooking^  no  matter  what  method  is  used  and  do  not  cook  long, 
never  boiling  more  than  a minute  or  two.  This  is  also  true  of 
lobsters,  etc.,  as  long  cooking  toughens  the  meat.  In  handling 
oysters  the  wire  oyster  fork  is  nice  as  the  short  tines  hold  the  oyster 

at  the  end  of  the  fork,  instead  of  allowing 
the  tines  to  slip  through  and  project  be- 
wire  oytser  Fork.  yoiid  thc  oystcr.  As  to  outritlvc  qualitics 

oysters  rank  much  below  meats,  and  it  is  even  questioned  whether 
they  contain  the  phosphorus,  or  brain-food,  which  has  been  credited 
to  them  in  company  with  the  finny  tribe  in  general.  But,  when 
properly  cooked,  they  are  easy  of  digestion,  and  very  proper  food 
for  persons  whose  occupation  is  sedentary,  and  whose  duties  do  not 
call  for  heavy  muscular  exertion.  Even  for  invalids,  they  are  nu- 
tritious and  wholesome,  when  delicately  prepared.  For  varieties, 
etc.,  of  shell-fish  see  Marketing  and  to  dress  lobsters,  terrapins,  etc., 
for  the  diflerent  dishes  given,  see  Cutting  and  Curing  Meats.  To 
open  oysters,  wash  the  shells  and  put  on  hot  coals  or  upon  top  of  a 
hot  stove,  or  bake  in  a hot  oven  ; or  open  on 
end  with  oyster  knife  or  sharp  iron,  resting 
round  part  of  oyster  shell  in  left  hand,  using 
the  knife  with  right,  or  open  cans  with  can 
opener.  From  the  middle  of  January  to  middle  of  March  oysters 
are  really  in  best  condition  and  are  also  less  expensive. 


Fried  Clams. — Remove  from  shell  large  soft-shell  clams ; have 
the  clams  dried  in  a towel,  single-bread  them  or  dip  in  batter  and 
fry  (longer  than  oysters)  in  sweet  lard  or  butter.  Some  prepare  for 
cooking  by  cutting  ofif  the  black  head*  splitting  the  long,  tough 
neck  and  scraping. 

Clam  Chowder. — Chop  fifty  clams,  peel  and  slice  ten  raw  pota- 
toes, cut  into  dice  six  onions  and  a half  pound  fat  salt  pork,  slice 
six  tomatoes  (if  canned  use  a coffeecup  full ),  and  have  ready  a pound 
pilot  crackers  ; first  fry  pork  in  bottom  of  pot  and  partially  cook  onions 
in  the  pork  fat,  remove,  and  put  plate  in  pot  bottom  side  iip  ; then 
put  ingredients  in  layers,  with  pork  at  bottom,  then  onions,  po- 
tatoes, tomatoes,  clams  and  crackers,  season  with  pepper  and  salt, 


SHELL-FISH. 


799 


pour  over  this  the  liquor  from  clams  and  repeat  the  process,  adding 
chopped  parsley  to  taste.  Cover  with  water  and  boil  from  half  to 
three  quarters  of  an  hour.  Some  prefer  to  put  the  clams  in  whole, 
and  the  potatoes  are  often  parboiled  or  cold  cooked  ones  may  be 
used.  The  tomatoes  may  be  omitted  and  bread-crumbs  used  in- 
stead of  crackers.  Half  oysters  and  half  clams  may  be  used,  add- 
ing the  liquor  from  both,  or  a third  each  fish,  oysters  and  clams. 
Chowder  can  be  made  of  either  hard  or  soft-shell  clams. 

Clam  Pie. — Take  three  pints  either  hard  or  soft-shell  clams  (if 
large,  chop  slightly),  put  in  saucepan  find  bring  to  boil  in  their 
liquor,  adding  a little  w^ater  if  needed ; have  ready  four  medium- 
sized potatoes,  boiled  till  done  and  cut  in  small  squares;  make  a 
nice  pie  paste  with  which  line  medium-sized  pudding  dish  half  way 
down  sides ; turn  small  cup  bottom  up  in  middle  of  dish  to  keep  up 
top  crust ; put  in  first  a layer  of  clams,  then  a few  potatoes  and 
season  with  bits  of  butter,  a little  salt  and  pepper,  and  dredge  with 
flour ; add  another  layer  of  clams,  and  so  on  till  dish  is  filled,  add- 
ing juice  of  clams,  and  a little  water  if  necessary  (there  should  be 
about  as  much  liquid  as  for  chicken-pie).  Cover  w'ith  top  crust, 
cut  slits  for  steam  to  escape,  and  bake  three-quarters  of  an  hour. 

Clam  Stew. — Take  half  peck  hard-shell  clams,  w^ash  shells 
clean,  and  put  in  kettle  with  about  a cup  water  ; steam  until  shells 
open,  when  take  out  of  shell,  strain  juice,  and  return  it  with  clams 
to  fire ; after  they  come  to  a boil,  add  pint  milk  or  w'ater,  piece  of 
butter  size  of  egg,  three  crackers  rolled  fine,  pepper,  and  salt  if  any 
is  needed.  Boil  up  once  and  serve  hot.  Nice  poured  over  toast. 
Some  use  only  the  soft  part  of  clams  and  first  make  a white  sauce 
by  mixing  tablespoon  each  butter  and  flour  over  the  fire,  adding 
gradually  pint  hot  milk  or  milk  and  w^ater,  and  season  with  salt 
and  pepper ; then  put  in  soft  parts  of  clams,  and  simmer  gently  for 
fifteen  minutes  where  they  wdll  not  burn.  For  Boiled  Clams.,  select 
thin-edged  ones.  Wash  carefully  and  put  in  pot  over  hot  fire,  wfith 
very  little  water,  so  as  to  save  their  juices  ; when  they  open,  leave 
juice  in  pot,  remove  clams  from  shells  and  put  clams  back  in  ; add 
butter,  pepper,  and  very  little  salt,  and  boil  ten  minutes.  Serve  hot. 

Fried  Crahs. — Procure  soft-shell  crabs,  alive  if  possible,  as 
shells  harden  within  twenty-four  hours  after  being  killed,  i’o  pre- 
pare for  cooking,  lay  the  crab  on  its  back,  lift  up  the  apron  or  flap 
near  the  back  of  the  shell,  take  out  all  spongy  and  fibrous  portions, 
and  by  lifting  the  shell  at  both  sides  remove  same  substance  from 
the  back,  cut  a semi-circle  from  the  head,  including  the  eyes  and 
sand-bags.  Wash  in  cold  salted  w^ater,  dry  on  clean  tow^el,  season 
inside  and  out  with  salt  and  pepper  and  fry  light  brown  in  fresh 
butter  or  lard.  Or  double-bread  them  and  fry  by  immersion.  Some 
bread  them  by  dipping  into  milk  for  first  wetting.  Serve  garnished 
with  crisped  parsley  or  sliced  lemon.  Mayonnaise  Sauce  is  nice 


800 


SHELL-FISH. 


with  this  dish.  Broiled  Crabs  are  nice  if  first  dipped  in  melted 
butter,  seasoned  with  pepper  and  salt.  Some  drop  them  into  hot 
water  for  one  minute,  then  broil.  Serve  with  Drawn  Butter  or 
Tartare  Sauce. 

Deviled  Crabs. — Pick  the  meat  from  boiled  crabs,  cut  in  fine 
bits  and  mix  with  all  the  creamy  white  substance  and  green  fat,  add 
one-third  as  much  bread-crumbs,  two  or  three  chopped  hard-boiled 
eggs,  and  lemon  juice  ; season  with  pepper,  salt,  and  butter,  and  add 
enough  cream,  stock  or  water  to  moisten.  Clean  shells  nicely  and 
fill  with  the  mixture,  sprinkle  over  with  bread-crumbs  and  small 
bits  of  butter,  and  brown  in  oven.  Must  be  served  either  very  hot 
or  perfectly  cold.  Arrange  shells  on  platter  with  sprig  parsley  in 
top  of  each,  and  send  cream  crackers  on  Avith  them.  Lobsters  may 
be  prepared  and  served  same.  Some  like  the  addition  of  a very  lit- 
tle shallot  and  parsley  chopped  fine. 

Boiled  Lobster. — Put  in  boiling  water,  with  little  salt,  and  boil 
till  cooked  through  and  shell  turns  red ; rub  shell  with  sweet  oil 
after  Aviping  to  brighten  color.  Split  body  and  tail  through,  cracli 
claws  and  it  is  ready  to  serve,  but  must  be  cut  up  fine  before  eatings 

A dressing  made  of  salt,  mustard 
oil,  cayenne  pepper  and  vinegar 
mixed  with  the  yolk  of  an  egg,  is 
usually  prepared  for  it.  The  AA'hite 
of  a hard-boiled  egg  may  be  minced 
fine  and  strewn  over  it.  Boiled 
are  prepared  and  served  same, 
procuring  the  hard-shelled,  and  be- 
ing  careful  to  remove  eyes,  soft  fins, 
etc.,  before  cooking.  The  meat  is  often  picked  from  shell  before 
sent  to  table  and  seiwed  Avith  salt,  pepper,  lemon  juice  or  Annegar,or 
any  good  table  sauce,  or  heat  it  in  White  Sauce,  or  Avith  butter, 
Aunegar  and  a rather  high  seasoning. 

Broiled  T^obster.—Q^^\>  tail  part  of  lobster  in  two,  rub  a little 
sweet  (fil  OAW  the  meat  and  broil.  When  done,  brush  a little  butter 
OA’^er  it  with  juice  of  half  a lemon  and  a very  little  cayenne.  Put 
meat  back  in  shell  and  send  to  table  with  dish  of  broiled  tomatoes 
and  fresh  baked  potatoes.  Or  cut  tail  in  square  pieces,  cut  a fcAV  thin 
slices  bacon  into  squares  a little  larger  than  the  lobster ; place  on 
a skeAA’^er  alternately  and  broil ; baste  as  above  and  send  to  table  on 
bed  of  Avater-cresses. 

Deviled  Take  the  meat  from  boiled  lobsters  as  di- 

rected in  Lobster  Salad  and  chop  fine,  or  cut  into  fine  dice,  reserv- 
ing the  coral.  Rub  the  coral  smooth,  moistening  with  vinegar  until 
jriin  enougn  to  pour  easily.  Season  the  lobster  meat  highly  Avith 
mustard,  cayenne,  salt,  and  sharp  sauce.  Toss  up  with  a fork  until 


SHELL-FISH. 


801 


mixed,  and  put  in  covered  saucepan  with  only  enough  hot  water  to 
keep  from  burning;  boil  up  once  and  stir  in  prepared  coral,  add 
tablespoon  butter  and  when  it  reaches  boiling  point  take  from  fire. 
Do  not  cook  too  much  or  meat  will  be  tough.  May  be  served  hot 
in  deep  dish  or  put  back  in  shells,  or  in  baking  dish,  covered  with 
bread-crumbs  and  bits  of  butter  and  browned  in  oven.  If  to  be 
served  in  shells,  be  careful  in  opening  not  to  break  the  body  or  tail 
of  shells,  which  must  be  washed  and  dried,  rui)bed  with  oil,  and  if 
two  lobsters  are  used  may  be  put  together  in  form  of  a boat.  Some 
chop  a little  parsley  and  shallot  with  the  meat,  add  a few  drops 
essence  anchovies,  tablespoon  vinegar,  cayenne  pepper  and  salt, 
and  a little  Cream  or  Bechamel  Sauce  ; boil  all  well  together,  add 
beaten  yolk  of  an  egg,  put  in  the  shells,  cover  with  bread-crumbs 
and  bits  of  butter  and  brown  twenty  minutes  in  oven.  Or,  boil  a 

h it  two  tablespoons  flour  and  one 
of  mustard  mixed  smooth  with 
three  tablespoons  hot  cream  ; cook 
two  minutes,  add  meat  from  two 
lobsters  with  salt,  pepper,  and 
pinch  cayenne,  boil  one  minute, 
put  in  shells  as  above,  brown  in 
oven  and  serve  on  long  narrow 
platter,  with  body  in  center  and  tails  at  each  end,  garnished  with 
parsley  and  sliced  lemon.  The  prepared  meat  left  over  is  nice  re- 
heated and  served  on  slices  of  toast  for  breakfast.  For  Scalloped 
Lol)ste7\  omit  the  mustard  in  last  recipe,  put  the  mixture  in  buttered 
dish  or  scallop  shells  and  finish  as  above.  Wliite  Stock  or  water 
may  be  used  instead  of  milk  or  cream  and  some  prefer  to  thicken 
with  corn-starch.  Canned  lobster  may  be  used  in  any  of  above  recipe*s. 

Roasted  Lobster. — When  lobster  is  half  cooked,  remove  from 
vater  and  rub  thoroughly  with  butter,  put  in  heated  pan  in  hot 
oven  and  baste  constantly  with  butter  until  it  has  a fine  froth  and 
shell  is  dark  brown.  Place  on  dish  and  serve  with  melted  butter. 

/ Lobster  Croquettes. — Chop  meat  of  a boiled  lobster  fine  with 

quarter  as  much  bread  as  meat ; add  pepper,  salt,  and  mace  if  liked, 
make  into  pointed  balls  with  two  tablespoons  melted  butter,  single- 
bread them  and  fry  in  butter  or  lard.  Serve  dry  and  hot  and  garn- 
ish with  crisp  parsley.  Delicious  entree,  or  supper  dish. 

Lobster  Cutlets. — Prepare  the  cutlets  as  directed  in  Cape  May 
Salad,  single-bread  them,  taking  care  to  have  every  part  covered, 
place  in  frying  basket  and  fry  in  hot  fat  till  a rich  brown — about 
two  minutes.  Drain,  arrange  on  hot  dish  with  part  of  a claw  in 
each  to  re])resent  bones  in  cutlets,  and  garnish  with  crisped  parsley. 
White  or  Bechamel  Sauce  may  be  served  around  cutlets  if  liked. 

Ragout  of  Lobster. — Cut  meat  of  boiled  lobster  in  small  pieces  ; 
pound  spawn  to  a smooth  paste,  with  two  tablespoons  butter,  salt, 
51 


802 


SHELL-FISH. 


pepper  and  a little  mace.  Put  a gill  water  in  saucepan,  thicken 
with  two  well-beaten  eggs ; add  the  spawn  and  stir  over  fire  briskly 
ten  minutes.  Add  lobster  meat,  boil  up  once  and  serve  very  hot. 

Broiled  Oysters. — Dry  large,  selected  oysters  in  a napkin,  salt 
and  pepper  them  and  broil  on  a fine  folding  wire-broiler,  well  but- 
tered to  prevent  sticking,  turning  frequently  to  keep  the  juice  from 
wasting.  Serve  immediately  in  hot  dish  with  bits  of  buttei  on  them. 
Or,  dry  the  oysters  in  a napkin,  dip  each  in  butter  previously  salted 
and  peppered,  roll  well  in  sifted  cracker-dust  or  bread-crumbs,  let 
lie  a few  minutes,  dip  again  in  melted  butter,  roll  in  crumbs  and  broil 
over  good  fire  from  five  to  seven  minutes, 
not  very  brown  or  they  will  not  be  so 
juicy,  and  serve  immediately  in  hot  dish 
with  butter,  pepper  and  salt,  or  on  nice 
diamond-shaped  pieces  of  toast,  with  lit- 
tle melted  butter  on  each.  For  Broiled 
Oysters  in  S/iell,  select  large  shells.  Folding  wire  Brouer. 

clean  with  a brush,  0})en,  saving  juice,  and  put  oysters  in  boiling 
water  for  a few  minutes ; remove  and  place  each  oyster  in  a half- 
shell, with  juice ; place  on  gridiron  over  brisk  fire,  and  when  they 
begin  to  boil,  season  with  butter,  salt  and  pepper  and  some  add  a 
drop  of  lemon  juice.  Serve  on  half-shell.  Or,  remove  from  shell 
and  heat  two  dozen  oysters  in  their  own  liquor,  drain  and  add  to 
oysters  in  pan  a lump  of  butter,  little  chopped  parsley  and  shallot, 
pepper  and  salt  and  scald  but  do  not  boil  ; then  put  back  in  shells 
with  a few  drops  lemon  juice,  cover  with  bread-crumbs  and  broil; 
Vv’hen  they  boil  in  shell  take  from  fire  and  serve  at  once.  Or,  open 
oysters,  leaving  them  in  their  deep  shell,  taking  care  not  to  spill  the 
juice,  season  with  small  ])iece  butter,  a little  cayenne, salt,  and  lemon 
juice  if  liked  ; place  on  gridiron  over  brisk  fire  and  broil  about  three 
minutes.  Serve  with  bread  and  butter. 

Creamed  Oysters. — Put  pint  cream  in  custard  kettle  wdth  a 
slice  of  onion  and  bit  of  mace  and  let  boil;  add  tablespoon  flour 
mixed  smooth  with  little  cold  milk  or  cream-^  and  salt  or  pepper  to 
taste ; have  the  oysters  scalded  in  their  own  liquor,  skimmed  if 
necessary,  drain  and  add  them  to  the  boiling  cream.  Skim  out 
mace  and  onions  and  serve  very  hot  on  slices  of  hot  buttered  toast. 
Some  do  not  scald  the  oysters  before  adding  to  cream  and  add  their 
liquor  also.  The  onion  and  mace  may  be  omitted. 

Curried  Oysters. — Put  liquor  drained  from  a quart  oysters  in 
saucepan,  add  half  cup  butter,  two  tablespoons  flour,  and  one  of 
curry-powder,  well  mixed ; let  boil,  add  oysters  and  a little  salt ; 
boil  up  once  and  serve.  Or  With  Onions^  open  three  dozen  oysters, 
leaving  them  in  their  own  liquor ; cut  one  medium-sized  onion  in, 
small  dice,  and  lightly  fry  in  stewpan  with  tablespoon  butter.  When 
done,  mix  in  one  teaspoon  curry-powder  and  little  flour,  add  oysters 


SHELL-FISH. 


803 


with  their  liquor,  and  keep  stirring  over  fire  until  the  oysters  be- 
come enveloped  in  a thick  sauce,  when  turn  out  upon  dish  and  serve 
with  boiled  rice. 

Deviled  Oysters. — Wipe  oysters  dry,  lay  in  a flat  dish  and  cover 
with  a mixture  of  melted  butter,  cayenne  pepper  (or  pepper  sauce), 
and  lemon  juice.  Let  them  lie  in  this  for  ten  minutes,  turning  fre- 
quently ; take  out,  roll  in  cracker  crumbs,  then  in  beaten  egg,  then 
in  crumbs,  and  fry  in  hot  lard  and  butter,  half  and  half. 

Fried  Oysters. — This,  next  to  soup,  is  the  way  in  which  oysters 
are  most  generally  served  and  we  give  a number  of  recipes  ; for  all  of 
them,  the  oysters  must  be  drained  thoroughly  in  colander  and  all 
hits  of  shell  removed ; to  do  which  it  is  sometimes  necessary  to 
take  up  each  oyster,  and  some  dry  on  a soft  white  cloth,  although 
it  is  best  to  handle  them  as  little  as  possible  as  it  tends  to  toughen 
them.  They  can  be  breaded  in  any  of  the  ways  given  on  page  299 
and  bread-crumbs  may  be  used,  but  it  is  then  very  necessary  that 
they  be  wiped  dry  before  dipping,  but  with  cracker-dust  draining  is 
all  that  is  needed.  Where  one  is  near  a large  bakery,  it  is  nicer  to 
buy  the -latter  rather  than  prepare  it  one’s  self  and  is  even  more 
economical.  ^ or  Buckeye  Fried  Oyster medium-sized  oys- 
ters, prepare  as  above,  sprinkle  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  set  in  cool 
place  for  ten  or  fifteen  minutes.  Then  pour  them  into  a pan  of  finely- 
rolled  crackers,  add  liquor,  mix  well,  and  let  stand  five  minutes,  add 
a little  salt  and  pepper,  mold  into  small  cakes  with  two  or  three 
oysters  in  each,  roll  in  dry  cracker-dust  until  well  encrusted,  and  fry 
in  hot  lard  and  butter,  or  drippings.  Serve  hot  in  covered  dish. 
Or  if  large  oysters  dip  each  in  yolk  of  eggs,  well  seasoned  and 
beaten,  then  in  corn  meal  with  a little  baking  powder  mixed  with 
it,  and  fry  like  fritters  ; or  put  in  frying  basket  and  place  in  the  hot 
lard;  or  take  two  parts  rolled  crackers  and  one  part  corn  meal,  and 
treat  as  above.  For  Boston  Fried  Oysters.,  when  oysters  are  ready, 
put  in  hot  frying-pan,  turn  so  as  to  brown  on  both  sides,  taking 
away  the  liquor  as  fast  as  it  collects.  They  cook  in  this  way  in  a 
few  moments,  and  the  peculiar  flavor  of  the  oyster  is  well  preserved. 
Serve  on  a hot  covered  dish,  with  butter,  pepper  and  salt,  or  add  a 
little  cream  just  before  serving,  and  serve  as  above  on  toast.  For 
Superior  Fried  Oysters.,  take  two  dozen  large  oysters  prepared  as 
above,  have  cracker-dust  seasoned  with  teaspoon  salt ; take  one  oyster 
at  a time,  roll  in  cracker-dust,  and  lay  on  a meat  board  or  platter  by 
itself  until  all  are  so  encased,  and  laid  in  rows ; let  remain  fifteen 
minutes,  now  take  oyster  first  rolled  in  cracker-dust  and  dip  in 
beaten  eggs  (yolk  and  white  beaten  together),  then  the  second  oys- 
ter, and  so  on  until  all  are  dipped,  then  roll  in  cracker-dust,  follow- 
ing same  order  as  before.  Let  them  remain  from  half  to  three-quar- 
ters of  an  hour.  It  is  important  to  follow  the  same  order  in  each 
operation,  to  give  liquor  of  oyster  time  to  drain  out  and  be  ab- 


804 


SHELL-FISH. 


sorbed  by  the  cracker-dust ; now  heat  in  frying-pan  one  pound  oi 
clarified  fat  or  lard  ; when  the  blue  smoke  arises  ( which  indicates  a 
heat  of  375  the  proper  cooking  point),  drop  into  it  a peeled  po- 
tato or  piece  of  hard  bread,  which  has  the  effect  of  preventing  the 
fat  growing  hotter,  drop  in  oysters  very  lightly,  and  when  a light 
brown  turn  to  brown  the  other  side  ; and  then  skim  out  into  colan- 
der to  drain  a moment,  or  lay  upon  a piece  of  brown  paper,  which 
will  absorb  superfluous  grease ; or  have  dripping-pan  lined  with 
brown  paper,  place  in  that  and  put  in  oven.  In  that  way  they  can 
drain  and  be  kept  hot  till  ready  to  serve.  The  time  for  cooking  is 
about  three  minutes.  Serve  hot  on  a hot  platter.  Fried  oysters,  to 
be  at  their  best,  must  be  eaten  as  soon  as  cooked ; and  wdien  it  is 
possible,  if  a second  supply  is  to  be  needed,  it  should  be  cooked  while 
the  first  is  being  served  and  eaten.  For  reason  given  above  use  the 
hands  as  little  as  possible  ; all  the  rolling  and  dipping  may  be  done 
Avith  a fork,  wfithout  mangling  the  oyster.  Pfiiladelphioj  Fried 
Oysters  are  prepared  by  rolling  tliem  in  flour,  seasoned  with  salt 
arid  pepper,  dropping  them  into  an  equal  mixture  of  lard  and  salad 
oil  made  smoking  hot  in  frying-pan,  and  serving  them  the  instant 
their  edges  begin  to  curl.  For  Gopher  Fried  Oyster.,  beat  three  or 
more  eggs,  according  to  number  of  oysters  to  be  fried,  add  equal 
bulk  of  rich  cream  and  season  AAuth  salt  and  pepper;  dip  oysters, 
one  by  one  in  this  and  then  roll  carefully  in  either  sifted  bread  or 
cracker-crumbs.  Let  stand  in  a cool  place  till  ready  to  fry,  an 
hour  or  so  W'ill  not  hurt  them,  fry  in  frying-pan  or  like  fritters. 
With  Oil,  beat  the  yolks  of  six  eggs  wfith  three  tablespoons  salad 
oil  and  season  with  teaspoon  salt  and  pinch  cayenne,  dip  in  this, 
then  roll  in  cracker-dust  and  let  stand  ten  minutes,  then  dip  in  mix- 
ture, lastly  roll  in  sifted  bread-crumbs  and  fry  as  above.  For  ltal~ 
iaii  Fried  Oysters,  boil  xhree  dozen  oysters  for  one  minute  in  their 
own  liquor,  and  drain  them  ; fry  themin  two  tablespoons  butter,  one 
of  catsup,  a little  chopped  lemon  peel  and  parsley;  drain,  place  on 
dish,  and  garnish  wfith  fried  potatoes  and  parsley.  This  is  a delic- 
ious delicacy.  Or  some  bread  them,  seasoning  the  crumbs  with 
finely-chopped  parsley,  grated  lemon  rind  and  nutmeg  and  a pinch 
cavenne,  and  fry  as  Gopher  Fried  Oysters,  seasoning  Avith  celery 
salt  just  before  sWAung.  For  Manhatten  Fried  Oysters,  after  drain- 
ing, season  Avith  salt  and  pepper,  roll  in  cracker-crumbs  or  dust  and 
cover  the  bottom  of  a frying-pan  in  AAdiich  a tablespoon  or  tAA^o  of 
butter  has  been  made  A’^ery  hot;  fry  broAvn,  turning  as  needed  and 
sei’A^e  on  dry  toast.  One  of  the  most  ornamental  ways  of  serving 
fried  oysters  is  as  folloAvs;  cut  off  top  from  a brick-shaped  loaf  of 
bread  scraping  off  the  inner  crumbs  from  the  top  and  the  remaining 
part  of  loaf,  leaving  crust  half  an  inch  thick  ; place  in  stoA^e  until 
thoroughly  heated,  then  put  in  the  fried  oysters,  cover  AAuth  top,  tie 
around  it  ribbon,  corresponding  A\dth  table  decorations,  place  on 
platter  and  serve,  garnished  Avith  slices  of  lemon  and  sprigs  of  pars- 


SHELL-FISH. 


805 


ley.  The  loaf  may  be  used  several  times  if  cared  for  carefully  ; or 
prepare  small  rolls  in  same  way,  cutting  them  in  two  lengthwise, 
till,  tie,  and  serve  individually.  These  are  also  nice  filled  with  any 
salad  or  chopped  meats.  Always  serve  pickles,  slaw,  grated  horse^ 
radish,  etc.,  with  fried  oysters. 

Fricasseed  Oysters. — Drain  liquor  from  a quart  oysters,  strain 
pint  of  it  into  stewpan  and  when  it  boils  put  in  oysters  ; when  they 
begin  to  swell  add  tablespoon  flour  rubbed  smooth  with  two  of  but- 
ter and  cook  until  oysters  are  white  and  plump,  add  a gill  cream 
with  white  pep]ier  and  salt  to  taste  and  serve  hot ; some  add  beaten 
egg  and  juice  of  a lemon,  sprinkling  a little  chopped  parsley  over 
the  fricassee,  after  dishing  and  just  before  serving ; or  omit  liquor, 
put  drained  oysters  in  a hot  frying-pan  with  tablespoon  butter,  then 
finish  as  above  adding  an  egg  or  two  with  the  cream.  For  a richer 
fricassee,  parboil  or  swell  fifty  fine  oysters  in  their  own  juice.  Re- 
move scum,  and  place  juice  and  oysters  in  a hot  tureen,  cover  and 
keep  in  a warm  place.  Rub  together  six  tablespoons  butter,  three 
of  flour  and  a half  gill  hot  cream  till  a smooth  paste  ; add  this  to  a 
quart  and  a half  hot  cream  in  stewpan  over  fire, and  stir  constantly  ; 
season  to  taste  with  salt,  white  pepper,  allspice,  mace  and  a little 
nutmeg;  stir  until  mixture  begins  to  thicken,  then  add  the  well- 
beaten  yolks  of  six  eggs.  Strain  mixture  over  oysters,  stir  well, 
then  cover  thickly  with  bread-crumbs,  on  top  of  which  lay  a few  bits 
of  butter.  Plane  in  quick  oven  until  top  is  of  a very  rich  brown.  Serve 
very  hot.  Some  like  the  addition  of  a teaspoon  chopped  parsley 
and  if  served  in  an  open  dish  garnish  with  squares  or  rounds  of 
fried  bread  and  sprigs  of  parsley,  Or  take  a slice  of  raw  ham  ( corned 
and  not  smoked),  soak  in  boiling  water  half  an  hour,  cut  in  very 
small  slices  and  put  in  saucepan  with  two-thirds  pint  veal  or  chicken 
broth,  strained,  the  liquor  from  one  quart  oysters,  a small  onion 
minced  very  fine,  and  a little  chopped  parsley,  sweet  marjoram  and 
pepper.  Let  these  simmer  twenty  minutes,  boiling  rapidly  two  or 
three  minutes.  Then  skim  well  and  add  scant  tablespoon  corn- 
starch mixed  smoothly  in  one-third  cup  milk,  stir  constantly,  and 
when  it  boils  add  oysters  and  tablespoon  butter ; just  let  it  come  to 
a boil,  remove  oysters  to  a deeper  dish,  then  beat  one  egg  and  add 
to  it  gradually  some  of  the  hot  broth,  and  when  cooked  stir  it  into 
the  ]);in  ; season  with  salt  and  pour  all  over  the  oysters.  Some 
squeeze  over  the  juice  of  a lemon. 

Hidden  Oysters. — Cut  as  many  thin  slices  of  fat  bacon  as  there 
are  03^sters,  large  New  York  Counts,  dust  a little  cayenne  on  each 
oyster  and  wrap  a slice  of  bacon  around  it,  keeping  in  place  with 
wooden  toothpicks  ; heat  a frying-pan,  put  in  bacon  and  oysters  and 
keep  over  quick  Are  until  bacon  is  browned  on  all  sides,  being  care- 
ful not  to  burn  ; talce  out  the  toothpicks  or  not  as  preferred,  and 
serve  singly  on  small  squares  of  toast.  Must  all  be  prepared  very 
quickly  and  served  very  hot. 


806 


SHELL-FISH. 


Panned  Oysters. — Cut  stale  bread  in  thin  slices,  then  round 
them,  removing  all  crust,  to  fit  patty-pans ; toast  them,  butter,  and 
place  in  pans;  moisten  with  three  or  four  teaspoons  oyster  liquor: 
then  place  on  toast  a layer  of  oysters,  sprinkle  with  pepper,  and  put 
on  top  small  piece  butter;  place  pans  in  baking  pan  and  put  in  oven, 
covering  with  tin  lid,  or  if  latter  is  not  large  enough,  another  j^an  to 
keep  in  the  steam  and  flavor ; have  a quick  oven,  and  when  cooked 
seven  or  eight  minutes,  until  edges  curl,  remove  cover  and  sprinkle 
with  salt;  replace  cover  and  cook  one  minute  longer.  Serve  in  the 
patty-pans.  Using  Paper  Cases  or  Patty  Shells  look  nicer  in  serv- 
ing, and  the  latter  can  be  eaten  with  the  oysters.  If  wanted  panned 
in  their  own  juice,  select  two  dozen  of  the  freshest  oysters,  have  a 
small  pan  about  an  inch  deep  with  a handle  ; open  oysters  into  pan 
and  add  as  much  more  juice.  Add  tablespoon  butter,  pinch  of  salt 
and  black  pepper,  and  sprinkle  a little  cracker-dust  on  top.  Place 
on  quick  fire,  and  when  oysters  begin  to  swell  they  are  done.  Serve 
on  toast.  Or  With  Cream.,  place  in  stewpan,  add  some  pepper,  a 
little  mace,  two  cloves,  and  four  or  five  tablespoons  cream.  Set 
over  fire  until  oysters  swell.  Then  pour  over  toast  and  add  a few 
bits  of  butter.  Put  tablespoon  flour  with  liquor  from  oysters,  mix 
smoothly  together  and  bring  to  a boil.  Pour  this  over  the  oysters 
and  toast,  put  in  very  hot  oven  and  brown  top  a little.  A few  bread- 
crumbs may  be  sprinkled  on  top  dish  with  bits  of  parsley  before 
baking.  To  pan  oysters  In  the  Shell  select  the  largest  ones,  wash 
both  shells  perfectly  clean,  put  in  baking  pan  with  round  side  down, 
and  place  in  oven.  In  a few  minutes  the  shell  will  slightly  open; 
then  take  from  fire,  remove  top  shell  carefully  and  retain  all  juice 
possible.  Place  on  each  oyster  a piece  of  butter,  sprinkle  of  salt 
and  pepper,  and  a few  bits  of  toast  cut  in  half-inch  squares.  Serve 
in  shells  placed  on  a folded  napkin. 

Pickled  Oysters. — Place  oysters  in  saucepan  and  simmer  gently 
in  their  own  liquor  about  ten  minutes.  Take  them  out  one  by  one, 
place  in  jar,  cover,  and  when  cold  add  a pickle  made  as  follows  ; 
Measure  the  oyster  liquor,  add  to  it  same  quantity  of  vinegar,  one 
blade  pounded  mace,  strip  of  lemon  peel  and  whole  cloves  and  boil 
five  minutes.  When  cold  })qur  over  oysters  and  cover  and  tie  very 
closely.  Or  to  the  liquor  from  a hundred  oysters  add  a teaspoon 
black  pepper,  a pod  of  red  pepper  broken  in  bits,  two  blades  of  mace, 
teaspoon  salt,  two  dozen  cloves,  and  half  pint  best  vinegar,  when  hot 
remove  scum,  add  oysters  and  simmer  gently  until  the  edges  curl, 
take  out  and  put  in  small  jars  with  the  spice  ; then  boil  the  pickle, 
skim,  and  pour  over  them.  Thin  lemon  slices  may  be  scattered 
through  the  jars  with  oysters.  This  pickle  will  be  ready  for  use  after 
standing  overnight,  but  may  be  kept  four  or  five  weeks.  Keep  pickled 
oysters  in  cool,  dark  place  and  when  ajar  is  opened  use  all  at  once, 
or  as  quickly  as  possible  lest  they  spoil.  Some  plump  the  oysters 
in  clear  boiling  water,  thei'i  put  in  cold  water  to  set  color  and  keep 


SHELL-FISH. 


807 


them  plump ; drain,  place  in  jars  and  pour  above  pickle  over  them. 
The  pickle  is  nicer  if  the  liquor  is  boiled,  skimmed  and  strained  be- 
fore adding  vinegar,  and  some  boil  with  it  a bit  of  alum  size  of  fil- 
bert, putting  spices  in  jars  with  oysters  instead  of  first  adding  them 
to  the  pickle.  For  Spiced  Oysters^  scald  one  hundred  fine  large 
oysters  in  their  own  liquor ; take  out  and  lay  on  clean  cloth  to  cool ; 
strain  liquor  from  oysters  and  add  to  it  as  much  water  as  their  is 
liquor.  Set  over  fire,  and  as  it  boils  remove  the  scum,  then  add  six 
or  eight  blades  of  mace,  half  ounce  allspice,  half  teaspoon  blackpep- 
])er,  six  large  cloves,  a pint  and  a half  vinegar,  and  a few  small 
pickles  cut  up  fine.  Boil  this  three  minutes.  Put  the  oysters  into 
a stone-ware  pot,  pour  the  pickle  over  them,  cover  closely,  and  set  in 
a cool  place.  Will  be  ready  for  use  next  day. 

Raw  Oysters. — Procure  oysters  as  nearly  of  a size  as  possible, 
and  have  the  shell  scrubbed  with  a brush  till  free  from  sand  or  dirt ; 
open  as  directed  in  preface,  detaching  the  flat  shell,  loosen  the  oyster 
from  the  round  or  deep  shell,  but  leave  in  it,  and  serve  half  dozen 
on  a plate,  with  quarter  of  lemon  and  a bit  of  parsley  in  center.  Eat 
with  salt,  pepper  and  lemon  juice  or  vinegar.  Some  season  in  the 
shell  before  serving  with  adust  of  cayenne  and  a little  lemon  juice, 
while  others  serve  only  in  their  own  liquor  with  the  dust  of  cayenne 
and  accompanied  with  quarters  of  lemon,  brown  bread  and  butter. 
In  serving  them  without  the  shells  the  most  attractive  way  is  in  a 
dish  of  ice,  made  by  freezing  v/ater  in  a tin  form  shaped  like  a salad 
bowl,  or  in  a Boat  of  lee.  Select  a large  block  of  ice,  of  crystal 
clearness  ; with  a hot  flat  iron  melt  a large  enough  place  in  the  top 
to  hold  oysters,  then  chip  from  sides  until  shaped  like  a boat.  Keep 
it  where  it  may  not  melt.  The  oysters  should  be  well  drained,  seas- 
oned with  pepper  and  salt,  and  placed  in  the  ice-boat.  Just  before 
dinner  is  served,  arrange  a bed  of  fresh  green  geranium  leaves  or 
parsley  or  any  green  upon  a low  platter  and  place  the  boat  upon  it, 
propping  it  up  if  necessary  with  a few  small  lumps  of  ice  hidden 
among  the  leaves.  Twine  delicate  green  vines  prettily  over  the  boat 
and  arrange  a circle  of  vivid  scarlet  geraniums  upon  the  platter 
around  the  base  of  the  boat  and  place  on  upper  edge  halves  or  quar- 
ters of  lemon  as  a garnish.  Two  folded  napkins  may  be  placed  on 
platter  to  prevent  the  boat  from  slipping,  then  cover  as  above.  This 
is  a very  elegant  manner  of  serving,  much  more  pleasing  in  appear- 
ance than  the  shells.  It  may  be  served  merely  on  a square  block 
without  being  chipped.  A still  more  elaborate  way  is  to  have  in- 
dividual dishes  of  ice  also ; they  can  be  made  in  same  manner,  some 
using  an  ordinary  window  weight,  heated,  to  hollow  them  out  and 
chipping  the  outside  of  the  small  blocks  into  eight-sided  dishes  or 
any  shapes  wished.  A simpler  and  equally  delicious  way  is  to  drain 
oysters  well,  sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper,  place  in  a dish  and  put 
on  ice  or  in  pan  of  cold  water  for  half  an  hour  before  serving,  add- 
ingbits  of  ice  on  top.  Serve  with  horseradish,  ObiU'  Svnee, 


808 


SHELL-FISH. 


of  lemon,  or  simply  vinegar.  Raw  oysters  are  served  with  brown 
bread  and  butter  as  above  for  luncheon,  but  more  frequently  with 
thin  slices  of  toast  before  soup  at  dinner.  Frozen  Oysters  are  es- 
teemed  a great  delicacy  by  some ; leave  them  where  they  will  freeze, 
then  open  and  serve  in  the  half-shell. 


Scalloped  Oysters. — This  is  another  method  of  cooking  oysters 
by  which  most  of  their  fine  native  flavor  may  be  retained,  and  Is  a 
very  satisfactory  dish.  Butter  and  bread  a baking  dish,  using  only 
the  sweetest  of  bread-crumbs  and  butter.  On  this  place  a layer  of 
extra  fine  oysters,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  put  in  anothe: 
layer  of  crumbs  and  another  of  oysters,  and  repeat  this  until  the 
dish  is  full,  having  the  last  layer  bread-crumbs,  butter  and  season- 
ing ; add  oyster  liquor  with  a small  dash  cayenne  pepper  over  the 
top.  Be  sure  to  use  plenty  of  butter,  place  in  a hot  oven  for  thirty 
minutes,  baking  a rich  brown  and  serve  hot.  Or  take  crushed  crackers, 
not  too  fine ; drain  liquor  from  quart  of  oysters  and  carefully  re- 
move all  bits  of  shell ; butter  a deep  dish  or  pan,  cover  bottom  with 
crackers,  put  in  layer  of  oysters  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper  and 
bits  of  butter,  allowing  about  a tablespoon  to  each  layer,  then  a 
layer  of  crackers,  then  oysters,  and  so  on  until  dish  is  full,  finishing 
v/ith  crackers  covered  with  bits  of  butter ; pour  over  the  oyster- 
liquor,  added  to  one  pint  boiling  water,  boiled  and  slightly  skim- 
med, place  in  a hot  oven,  bake  fifteen  minutes,  add  another  pint  of 
hot  water  if  needed,  or  half  pint  water  and  half  pint  of  milk,  in  which 
a small  lump  of  butter  has  been  melted;  bake  another  half  hour, 
and,  to  prevent  browning  too  much,  cover  with  a tin  or  sheet-iron 
lid.  A mixture  of  crackers  and  bread-crumbs  may  be  used  when 
more  convenient.  As  amount  of  liquor  in  oysters  varies^and  the 
' proportion  of  crackers  or  bread-crumbs  to  the  oys-  ^ 

ters  also  varies,  the  quantity  of  water  must  be  in- 
creased or  diminished  according  to  judgment  and 
taste.  Some  cook  only  half  an  hour  in  all.  The 
souffle  dish  is  especially  nice  in  which  to  cook  and  serve  Scalloped 
Oysters  or  anything  which  is  best  served  in  dish  in  which  it  is 
cooked.  One  can  have  two  inner  dishes  and  so  keep  one  hot  in 
oven  ready  to  place  in  the  ornamental  receptacle  when  first  one  is 
empty,  as  Scalloped  Oysters  to  be  in  their  prime  must  he  hot.^  In- 
stead of  this  dish  one  can  use  two  ordinary  quart  baking  dishes, 
placing  on  the  Knitted  Cover  when  serving.  Cream  or  milk  may 
be  added  instead  of  water,  to  liquor  poured 
over  the  top,  and  some  add  with  each  layer  a 
jfi  little  of  the  liquid,  as  in  this  way  it  is  all 
thoroughly  moistened ; a little  powdered 
Ornamental  Receptacle.  mace  or  grated  nutmcg  may  be  added  if  liked, 
and  it  is  made  richer  by  also  pouring  over  the  top  a cup  milk  in 
which  a well-beaten  egg  has  been  mixed.  Scalloped  Clams  are  pre- 
pared same  way,  first  chopping  them  if  preferred.  For  Saratoga 


SHELL-FISH. 


809 


Scalloped  Uy steins ^ cover  boltom  of  well-buttered  baking  dish  with 
layer  of  crumbs,  and  moisten  with  half  cup  cream  or  milk,  put  on 
spoon  by  spoon,  add  salt  and  pepper,  and  bits  of  butter ; put  in  one 
quart  of  oysters  and  liquor  with  more  pepper  and  bits  of  butter, 
cover  thickly  with  crumbs  and  on  them  place  more  pieces  of  butter. 
Place  in  oven  and  cover — this  is  very  important,  as  the  flavor  is 
thereby  not  allowed  to  escape — and  bake  till  the  juice  bubbles  up, 
from  half  to  three-quarters  of  an  hour.  Remove  cover  and  brown  in 
upper  part  of  oven  for  a few  minutes,  not  long;  or  use  the  salamander 
or  a hot  shovel.  Serve  in  dish  in  which  it  was  baked.  To  serve  in  Scal- 
lop Shells,  drain  all  the  liquor  from  a quart  oysters  in  stewpan,boii 
and  skim  and  add  half  pint  cream  or  milk  with  which  two  table- 
spoons flour  should  first  be  mixed ; boil  two  minutes, 
add  tablespoon  butter,  salt,  pepper,  little  nutmeg  and 
the  oysters,  and  take  from  fire  almost  immediately; 
taste,  and  if  needed  add  more  seasoning.  Have  the  soaiiop  sbeii. 
shells  buttered  and  sprinkled  lightly  with  crumbs ; nearly  fill  them 
with  the  prepared  oysters  and  cover  thickly  with  crumbs.  Put 
shells  in  baking  pan  and  bake  fifteen  minutes.  Serve  very  hot  on 
large  platter  garnished  with  parsley.  This  quantity  will  fill  a dozen 
shells  of  ordinary  size.  Clams  may  be  served  same,  chopping  them 
and  stewing  a half  hour  in  the  cream.  Some  first  fry  a chopped 
onion  light  brown  in  butter,  then  add  cream,  etc.,  and  after  taking 
from  fire  add  well-beaten  yolks  of  eggs  and  put  into  shells  as  above. 
Shells  are  of  tin,  granite  iron-ware,  plated-silver  and  china. 

Skewered  Oysters. — Take  metal  skewers  and  place  on  each  a 
half  dozen  oysters  alternately,  with  half  dozen  thin  slices  bacon, 
of  oysters.  Put  skewers  between  bars  of  buttered  wire 
broiler,  broil  and  serve  one  skewer  to  each  person.  Or 
string  on  hair-pin  shaped  wire,  first  an  oyster,  then  slice  of  pork,  and 
so  on  until  wire  is  filled  ; fasten  ends  of  wire  into  a long  wooden 
handle,  and  broil  before  the  fire.  Serve  with  the  pork,  if  liked,  seas- 
oning slightly  with  pepper.  For  another,  blanch  oysters  in  two 
waters,  and  drain.  Put  in  stewpan  some  chopped  onions,  mush- 
rooms, and  parsley,  with  butter  and  little  flour ; warm  oysters  in 
the  mixture,  and  stir  in  yolks  of  eggs  to  make  it  firm  enough  to 
adhere  to  oysters.  String  oysters  on  silver  skewers,  about  six  on 
each,  the  sauce  adhering  to  oysters  and  setting  around  them.  Bread 
them  and  broil.  Dish  up  on  napkin. 

Sceamed  Oysters. — Lay  oysters  in  the  shell  in  patent  steamer 
or  air-tight  vessel,  placing  the  upper  shell  downward  so  the  liquor 
will  not  run  out  when  they  open.  Set  over  a pot  of  boil  ing  water  and 
boil  hard  for  twenty  minutes ; if  the  oysters  are  open  they  are  done  ; 
if  not,  steam  till  they  do  open.  Serve  at  once  and  eat  hot,  with  salt 
and  a bit  of  butter.  Or.  wash  and  drain  one  quart  select  oysters, 
put  in  pan  and  place  in  steamer  over  boiling  water,  cover  and  steam 


810 


SHELL-FISH. 


till  oysters  are  plump  with  edges  ruffled ; place  in  heated  dish  vvith 
butter,  pepper  and  salt,  and  serve. 

StuiFed  Oysters. — Grate  yolks  of  three  or  four  hard-boiled  eggs, 
mix  with  them  half  as  much  fat  salt  pork  or  bacon,  season  with 
pepper  and  chopped  parsley  and  add  a raw  egg  to  make  a paste  of 
mixture.  Have  ready  a dozen  of  the  largest  oysters  on  a napkin, 
insert  a penknife  at  the  edge,  split  each  up  and  down  inside  with- 
out making  the  opening  very  large,  and  push  in  a small  teaspoon  of 
the  prepared  force-meat.  Double-bread  them,  using  melted  butter 
instead  of  egg,  and  broil  over  clear  fire.  For  TruMed  Oysters^  pre- 
pare a force-meat  by  chopping  and  then  pounding  to  a paste  the 
breast  of  a cooked  chicken  with  half  as  much  fat  salt  pork,  raw,  add- 
ing a small  can  of  truffles  cut  to  size  of  pease  and  quarter  pod  red 
pepper,  finely  minced.  Prepare  and  stuff  oysters  as  above,  roll 
them  in  flour,  dip  in  beaten  egg,  and  fry  by  placing  in  frying  basket 
immersing  in  hot  fat  three  or  four  minutes,  or  until  a golden  brown. 
Drain,  dust  lightly  with  fine  salt  and  serve  on  diamond-shaped  pieces 
of  toast,  four  oysters  on  each. 

Walled  Oysters. — Make  a wall  one  and  one-half  inches  high 
and  three-quarters  wide  of  one  quart  nicely  mashed  and  seasoned 
potatoes,  just  inside  raised  edge  of  platter,  glaze  it  by  covering  with 
beaten  egg  and  placing  in  oven  for  a few  minutes.  Place  the  liquor 
from  one  quart  oysters  in  porcelain  kettle,  let  boil,  skim  well,  then 
add  o^^sters  seasoned  with  salt,  boil  up  once,  skim  out  oysters  (milk 
or  water  can  be  added  to  the  liquor,  then  seasoned  with  butter  and 
pepper,  and  served  as  soup),  and  add  them  to  a cream  dressing  made 
by  putting  a cup  rich  cream,  butter  size  of  half  an  egg,  and  a little 
pepper  and  teaspoon  salt  in  a pan  placed  within  a vessel  of  boiling 
water;  when  hot  add  two  ounces  of  flour  mixed  smooth  in  some 
cream  or  milk,  and  let  cook  till  thickened,  then  place  oysters  and 
dressing  within  the  potato  and  serve  immediately^  Fried  oysters 
may  be  served  in  same  way.  Or  a more  elaborate  way  is  as  follows  : 
pare  and  boil  five  large  potatoes  and  mash  through  a colander ; add 
third  of  a cup  mxilk,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  tablespoon  butter,  and 
whites  of  three  eggs,  beaten  to  stiff  froth.  Have  a two-quart  Char- 
lotte Russe  mold  well  buttered,  and  sprinkle  bottom  and  sides  with 
bread-crumbs  ; there  must  be  butter  enough  to  hold  the  crumbs  in 
place.  Line  mold  with  a thick  even  coat  of  the  potato,  and  let  stand 
a few  minutes.  Put  a pint  cream  and  a slice  of  onion  on  to  boil ; 
mix  two  heaping  tablespoons  corn-starch  with  a little  cold  milk  or 
cream  and  stir  into  the  boiling  cream.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper 
and  cook  ten  minutes^  Bring  a quart  oysters  to  a boil  in  their  own 
liquor , skim  and  drain  off  all  liquor ; take  piece  of  onion  from  cream, 
add  oysters  and  pour  carefully  in  the  prepared  mold.  Cover  with 
remainder  of  potato,  being  careful  not  to  put  on  too  much  at  once, 
as  in  that  case  the  sauce  would  be  forced  to  the  top  and  take  care 


SHELL-FISH. 


811 


not  to  leave  any  openings,  or  the  sauce  will  run  through  and  spoil 
the  dish.  Bake  half  an  hour  in  hot  oven.  When  done,  remove  from 
oven  and  let  stand  a few  moments,  then  place  a large  platter  over 
the  mold,  turn  dish  and  mold  together,  and  remove  the  mold  very 
carefully.  Garnish  with  parsley. 

Oyster  Chowder. — Fry  three  slices  fat  pork  in  pot  and  add  three 
potatoes  and  two  onions  in  slices  ; boil  until  nearly  done  ; soak  two 
or  three  dozen  crackers  in  cold  water  a few  minutes,  and  put  in  the 
pot  with  half  a can  of  oysters  and  quart  milk.  Boil  together  a few 
minutes ; season  with  salt,  pepper  and  butter. 

Oyster  Croquettes. — Scald  and  chop  fine  the  hard  part  of  oys- 
ters (using  the  other  part  and  liquor  for  soup),  and  add  an  equal 
weight  of  mashed  potato  ; to  one  pound  of  this  add  lump  of  butter 
size  of  egg,  teaspoon  salt,  half  teaspoon  of  pepper,  and  quarter  of 
cup  cream.  Make  in  small  rolls  or  cakes,  single-bread  and  fry  as 
directed  in  Croquettes.  Some  add  also  half  teaspoon  mace. 

Oyster  Fritters. — Select  large  ])lump  oysters,  drain  off  liquor, 
strain,  boil,  skim,  and  to  each  cup  add  cup  milk,  two  or  three-c-'C:;:^®, 
salt  and  pepper  and  flour  enough  to  make  rather  thick  batter ; to 
fry,  take  an  oyster  in  large  spoon,  dip  into  batter  and  fry  in  hot  fat 
as  directed  in  Fritters.  Some  beard  and  others  chop  the  oysters 
and  stir  them  into  the  batter,  for  which  another  rule  is  two  eggs  and 
half  pint  milk  for  each  half  pint  oysters,  with  pepper  and  salt  to 
taste  and  little  nutmeg  if  liked.  Or  for  a pint  oysters,  sift  pint  flour 
with  level  teaspoon  salt,  add  yolk  of  egg,  tablespoon  salad  oil,  quar- 
ter saltspoon  pepper;  and  use  enough  strained  liquor  from  oysters 
to  make  batter  thick  enough  to  drop.  Beat  wdiite  of  egg  to  stiff 
froth  and  mix  this  and  the  oysters  lightly  with  batter  and  drop  at 
once  in  large  spoonfuls  into  frying  kettle,  half  full  of  smoking  hot 
fat.  As  a rule  by  the  time  fritter  floats  it  is  done.  If  there  is  not 
enough  oyster  liquor  to  make  batter,  add  water,  and  some  use  two 
eggs  instead  of  one  yolk  and  chop  oysters.  Serve  hot  on  napkin. 

Oyster  Omelet. — Add  to  a half  cup  of  cream  six  eggs  beaten 
very  light,  season  with  ])cppc]'  and  salt,  and  pour  into  a frying-pan 
with  tables] )Oon  Initter  ; di  o])  in  a dozen  large  oysters  cut  in  halves, 
or  cho])i)ed  flue  and  fry  until  a light  brown.  Double  it  over  and 
serve  immediately.  Chopjied  parsley  may  be  added  to  the  omelet, 
if  liked,  which  will  be  much  nicer  if  whites  and  yolks  of  eggs  are 
beaten  separately  and  the  whites  stirred  in  last. 

Oyster  Pancakes. — Strain  pint  liquor,  sift  together  heaping  cup 
flour,  level  teaspoon  salt,  heaping  teaspoon  baking  powder;  have 
pan  or  griddle  hot,  and  quickly  stir  into  the  flour  enough  oyster 
liquor  to  make  a thick  batter.  F ry  cakes  as  fast  as  possible. 


812 


SHELL-FISH. 


Oyster  Patties. — Have  ready  some  Patty  Shells,  see  Pastry, 
and  fill  with  oysters  prepared  as  follows  : Heat  half  pint  cream  to 
boiling,  stir  in  tablespoon  fiour,  made  smooth  with  a little  cold  milk, 
and  season  with  pepper,  salt,  and  grated  lemon  rind, pounded  mace, 
or  any  spice  liked,  with  a beaten  egg  or  two  if  wished.  While  this 
is  cooking  bring  the  oysters  to  a boil  in  their  own  liquor,  skim 
carefully,  then  dip  out  oysters,  put  them  in  the  hot  cream,  boil  up 
once,  and  serve  immediately  in  the  patty  shells.  The  above  quant- 
.ty  will  fill  a dozen  and  a half  shells.  Some  strain  the  oyster  liquor 
oind  add  to  the  cream  with  a little  more  tliickening,  and  the  oysters 
iiiay  be  bearded  and  cut  up  if  preferred,  some  even  chopping  "them. 
They  may  aiso  be  dressed  without  cream  using  only  their  liquor 
w.Uh  a iiiiie  butter  and  thickening  and  the  grated  yolk  of  a hard- 
boiled  egg.  with  seasoning  to  taste.  Layer  or  Pyramid  Shells  may 
be  used  and  with  the  latter,  when  adding  the  tops  it  is  nice  to  place 
small  sprigs  of  parsley  between  the  shell  and  the  tops.  These  are 
known  as  Oyster  Vat  an- Vents.  Or,  line  patty  pans  with  puff  paste, 
and  put  foimor  six  oysters  in  each,  according  to  size,  with  bits  of 
butter  and  pepper  and  salt,  sprinkle  over  a little  flour  and  chopped 
hard-boiled  eggs,  allowing  two  eggs  for  six  patties,  cover  with  an 
upper  crust  and  bake.  Maybe  served  in  the  pans,  or  turned  out 
and  placed  on  platter.  For  Fritter  Patties,  Q>vX  a loaf  of  stale 
broad  in  slices  an  inch  thick.  With  a cutter  two  inches  and  a half 
in  diameter  cut  but  as  many  pieces  as  patties  wanted,  and  with  an 
inch  and  a half  cutter,  press  in  center  half  through  each  piece.  Put 
pieces  in  frying  basket  and  plunge  into  boiling  fat  for  half  a minute. 
Taxe  out,  drain,  and  with  a knife,  remove  the  centers  and  take  out 
soft  bread ; then  fill  with  following  mixture ; put  two  tablespoons 
butrer  in  frying-pan,  and  when  hot,  add  one  of  flour.  Stir  until 
smooth  and  brown,  add  cup  oyster  liquor,  boil  one  minute,  and  stir 
in  one  pint  chopped  oysters.  Season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  a little 
lemon  juice.  When  hot,  fill  the  crusts.  Veal  or  any  kind  of  meat 
or  fish  may  be  used  with  any  kind  of  stock  for  the  liquid. 

Oyster  Pnz/iifen— Beard  fresh  large  oysters  and  place  in  vessel 
over  fire  a few  moments  to  extract  their  juice  ; cool  them  and  chop 
very  fine  with  sifted  biscuit  or  bread-crumbs,  mace  and  finely 
minced  lemon  peel,  then  pound  in  mortar  to  a paste ; shape  into 
thin  cakes,  place  on  buttered  paper  and  bake  in  slow  oven  until 
quite  hard.  Take  out  and  pound  them  to  a powder,  which  put  in 
air-tight  tin  box  and  keep  in  dry  place.  Nice  for  flavoring  fish, 
soups,  stews  and  sauces. 

Oyster  Pie. — Line  a pudding  dish  with  Puff  Paste ; dredge  wuth 
flour,  pour  in  pint  oysters,  season  w^ell  with  bits  of  butter,  salt  and 
pepper,  and  sprinkle  over  flour ; pour  on  some  oyster  liquor,  and 
cover  with  a crust  having  an  opening  in  center  to  allow  steam  t@ 
escape.  Or,  line  dish  half  way  up  with  good  paste,  fill  dish  with 


SHELL-FISH. 


813 


pieces  of  stale  bread,  place  a cover  of  paste  over  this,  and  bake 
about  twenty  minutes  in  brisk  oven  ; take  off  crust,  remove  bread, 
have  ready  some  oysters  prepared  as  for  patties,  till  the  pie  with 
them,  replace  the  crust  and  serve  at  once  Some  simply  make  a 
rich  oyster  stew,  put  in  dish,  cover  with  Puff  Paste  and  bake.  Or, 
line  dish  with  a paste,  place  an  extra  layer  around  the  edge,  and 
bake  in  a brisk  oven ; till  witli  o^^sfers,  season  with  pepper,  salt,  and 
tablespoon  butter,  sprinkle  slightly  with  flour,  and  cover  with  a thin 
crust  of  paste  : bake  quickly  and  when  top  crust  is  done,  the  pie  will 
be  ready  to  take  up.  Serve  promptly,  as  the  crust  quickly  absorbs 
the  gravy.  Another  wa}^  is  to  butter  a large  dish,  and  spread  a rich 
paste  over  the  sides  and  around  the  edge,  but  not  on  the  bottom ; 
drain  off  part  of  liquor  from  oysters,  put  them  in  pan,  and  season 
with  pepper,  salt,  spice  and  butter ; have  ready  yolks  of  three  hard- 
boiled  eggs  chopped  fine,  and  grated  bread-crumbs  ; pour  the  oysters 
with  enough  of  their  liquor  to  moisten  well,  into  the  dish  with  the 
paste,  strew  over  them  the  chopped  eggs  and  grated  bread,  cover  with 
the  paste  and  bake  in  quick  oven.  Nice  also,  with  gill  of  cream  added, 
and  a little  flour.  For  a Chicken  and  O^jster  Pie,  parboil  a chicken, 
cut  up  and  place  in  baking  dish,  season  and  cover  with  a layer  of 
oysters,  season  them  with  butter,  ])epper  and  salt,  put  two  hard-boiled 
eggs,  cut  in  slices,  with  piece  of  butter  size  of  egg  in  center,  sift 
flour  over  the  whole,  add  a half  pint  milk,  cover  with  the  paste  and 
bake  three-quarters  of  an  hour  in  moderate  oven. 

Oystey'  Boll. — Cut  a round  piece,  say  six  inches  across,  from 
top  of  well-baked  round  loaf  of  bread,  remove  inside  from  loaf,  leav- 
ing crust  half  an  inch  thick;  make  a rich  oyster  stew,  and  put  in 
the  loaf  first  a layer  of  it,  then  of  the  bread-crumbs,  then  oysters, 
and  so  on  ; place  cover  over  the  top,  glaze  loaf  with  beaten  yolk  of 
an  egg,  and  place  in  oven  a few  moments.  Serve  very  hot.  Or  put 
in  all  of  the  03'sters  with  layer  of  crumbs  over  the  top,  then  finish  as 
above.  Or  after  preparing  the  loaf  as  above,  break  up  crumbs  very 
fine,  and  dry  them  slowly  in  an  oven  ; then  cpiickly  fry  three  cups 
of  them  in  two  tablespoons  butter,  stirring  all  the  time.  As  soon  as 
they  begin  to  look  golden  and  are  crisp  they  are  done.  Put  quart 
cream  on  to  heat,  and  when  it  boils  stir  in  three  tablespoons  of 
flour,  mixed  with  cup  cold  milk.  Cook  ten  minutes,  season  well 
with  salt  and  pepper ; put  a laver  of  this  in  the  loaf,  then  a la^^er  of 
oysters,  which  dredge  well  with  salt  and  pepper ; then  another  layer 
of  sauce  and  one  of  fried  crumbs.  Continue  this  until  the  loaf  is 
nearly  full,  having  the  last  layer  a thick  one  of  crumbs.  Three  pints 
of  oysters  are  required  for  this  dish,  and  about  three  teaspoons  of 
salt  and  half  teaspoon  pepper.  Bake  slowly  half  an  hour.  Serve 
on  a fringed  napkin  with  a garnish  of  parsley  around  the  dish.  Or 
to  serve  individually  remove  a slice  from  top  of  small  rolls,  scoop 
out  the  crumb  and  fill  them  with  ov^sters  slightly  stewed  with  butter 


814 


SHELL-FISH. 


or  cream,  and  some  bread-crumbs ; replace  tops  of  loaves  and  bake 
till  crisp.  Glaze  with  beaten  egg. 

Oyster  Soup. — Pour  a quart  oysters  in  colander,  rinse  by  pour- 
ing over  them  pint  cold  water,  put  this  in  porcelain  kettle,  add  a 
pint  boiling  water,  let  boil,  skim,  season  with  pepper  and  piece  of 
butter  size  of  large  egg ; then  add  oysters,  having  removed  all  shells 
let  boil  up  once,  season  with  salt  and  serve.  Or  With  Milk,  pour 
quart  cold  water  over  quart  oysters  if  solid  ; if  not  solid,  use  pint 
water,  drain  through  a colander  into  kettle,  and  when  it  boils  skim  ; 
add  pepper,  then  the  oysters ; season  with  butter  and  salt,  then  add 
one  quart  cream  or  rich  new  milk  brought  to  boiling  point  in  a tin 
pail  set  in  a pot  of  boiling  water,  let  boil  up  and  serve  at  once.  Or, 
instead  of  adding  the  milk,  place  it,  boiling  hot,  in  tureen,  pour  the 
soup  over  it  and  then  serve.  A small  piece  of  lemon  peel  boiled 
with  the  oyster  liquor  and  taken  out  before  cream  is  added  is  con- 
sidered an  improvement  by  some.  Or  for  an  individual  stew,  put 
one  dozen  fine  oysters  and  their  liquor  in  saucepan  with  a little  water ; 
let  boil,  season  with  salt  and  p<=^pper  and  pour  into  a dish  in  which 
there  is  a tablespoon  butter;  add  three-quarters  pint  boiling  cream 
and  serve  at  once  ; or  the  cream  may  be  omitted  using  more  water. 
Some  do  not  let  it  quite  boil,  thinking  it  impairs  the  delicate  flavor. 

Oyster  Steic. — Put  liquor  from  oysters  on  stove,  let  boil,  skim, 
and  season  with  butter  and  pepper,  add  oysters,  let  only  come  to  a 
hoik  season  with  salt  and  serve.  This  is  pronounced  a ‘‘royal  stew.” 
If  to  be  served  individually  line  each  bowl  with  toast,  pour  in  oys- 
ters, add  teaspoon  lemon  juice,  sprinkle  a few  bits  of  parsley  over 
and  serve.  Or  put  oysters  in  stewpan  with  equal  quantities  water 
and  juice,  place  over  brisk  fire,  season  with  white  pepper,  bring  to 
a boil,  remove  scum,  add  salt  to  taste,  and  pour  into  bowls  witli 
teaspoon  butter  in  each.  Cover  bowls  with  plates  and  serve.  A 
CreaTxi  Stew  is  made  same  w^ay,  adding  cream  instead  of  water.  A 
Steio  With  Celery  is  made  same  as  third  recipe,  adding  a few  stocks 
of  celery  cut  up  fine  and  a little  mace.  While  cooking  add  teas- 
poon or  two  powdered  cracker-dust  and  cup  beef  broth.  Bring  to  a 
boil  and  pour  in  bowl  lined  with  toast,  well  buttered  and  cut  in  half- 
diamond shape.  Or  put  in  stewpan  a pint  each  best  beef  broth  and 
rich  sweet  cream;  add  four  tablespoons  choice  butter,  three  teaspoons 
salt,  two  of  white  pepper,  two  of  ground  mace  and  tlie  cut  celery,  or, 
if  this  is  not  to  behad,teas})oon  celery  extract ; stir  in  sifted  cracker- 
dust  to  thicken  slightly  and  when  cooked,  pour  the  sauce  over  fifty 
fine  oysters,  previously  parboiled  in  their  own  juice  and  placed  in 
tureen.  Serve  very  hot. 

Oyster  Toast. — Chop  a dozen  and  a half  good-sized  oysters, 
season  with  white  pepper  and  little  nutmeg ; boil  a half  pint  cream, 
put  in  oysters,  let  b^>il  up  once,  take  from  fire,  add  salt  to  taste,  stir 


SHELL-FISH. 


815 


in  well-beaten  yolks  of  four  eggs  and  pour  over  slices  of  buttered 
toast.  Or  beard  and  pound  oysters  in  mortar  to  a paste,  add  a lit- 
tle cream,  and  season  with  pepper.  Spread  this  on  small  slices  of 
toast,  and  place  for  a few  minutes  in  oven  to  heat.  A little  finely 
chopped  lemon  peel  may  be  sprinkled  upon  the  tops.  Oyster  Cream 
Toast  is  a nice  way  of  using  the  liquor  when  oysters  are  fried  ; heat 
it  and  make  a sauce  by  mixing  over  fire  tablespoon  each  butter  and 
flour  until  they  bubble,  then  gradually  stirring  in  the  hot  oyster 
liquor,  adding  if  necessary  a little  boiling  water  to  make  a sauce  of 
consistency  of  cream.  Boil  a minute  or  two,  season  with  salt  and 
white  pepper  and  pour  on  slices  of  toast.  For  Oyster  Sandwiches^ 
cook  oysters  in  a very  little  water  with  butter  and  salt  to  taste,  and 
put  a layer  of  them  between  two  thin  slices  of  dry  toast,  buttered 
slightly  if  wished.  Oysters  prepared  in  this  way  make  a delicious 
entree  to  be  sent  to  to  the  table  with  game  of  any  kind. 

Oyster  Vol-au-  Vent. — Prepare  the  large  vol-au-vent  case  as  di- 
rected in  Pastry.  Scald  a quart  oysters  in  their  own  liquor,  skim 
well,  drain  the  oysters  and  return  half  pint  of  strained  liquor  to 
saucepan.  Rub  tablespoon  flour  smooth  with  two  of  butter  and 
pour  the  hot  oyster  liquor  over  it ; season  well  with  pepper  and  salt 
and  a very  little  nutmeg  or  mace,  if  liked ; boil  up  once,  add  three 
tablespoons  cream  and  the  oysters,  stir  over  the  fire  a minute,  fill 
the  vol-au-vent  case,  put  on  the  cover  and  serve  immediately.  Beaten 
eggs  may  be  added  if  wished  richer. 

Oysters  and  Macaroni. — Lay  some  stewed  macaroni  in  a deep 
dish  and  put  over  it  a thick  layer  of  oysters,  bearded,  and  seasoned 
with  cayenne  pepper  and  grated  lemon  rind.  Add  a small  cup 
cream.  Strew  bread-crumbs  over  the  top,  and  brown  it  in  a pretty 
quick  oven.  Serve  hot,  with  Piquant  Sauce.  Or  have  ready  a third 
of  a package  macaroni,  two  dozen  oysters,  cup  milk,  an  egg,  table- 
spoon flour,  pepper  and  salt;  put  the  macaroni  in  boiling  salted 
water,  boil  twenty  minutes  and  drain  dry ; butter  the  bottom  of 
three-pint  baking  dish,  put  in  half  the  macaroni,  strew  oysters  over 
it,  and  dot  with  butter,  in  small  pieces,  dredge  with  salt  and  pepper 
and  cover  with  rest  of  macaroni ; moisten  the  flour  with  a little 
milk,  beat  in  the  egg,  then  the  rest  of  milk  and  oyster  liquor,  and 
pour  in  the  dish  and  bake  about  twenty  minutes  or  until  set.  Grated 
cheese,  sprinkled  between  the  layers  of  oysters  and  macaroni  is  a 
nice  addition.  If  a larger  dish  is  wanted,  put  in  three  layers  each 
of  oysters  and  macaroni,  and  some  alternate  also  with  layers  of 
bread-crumbs,  finishing  with  these  on  top.  Scald  the  oyster  liquor, 
strain,  add  sufficient  milk  to  moisten  the  whole  well  and  pour  over 
the  top,  dot  with  bits  of  butter  and  bake  about  twenty  minutes. 
Prepare  Chicken  and  Macaroni  same,  first  steaming  chicken  tender. 

Oysters  in  the  Shell. — Select  large  shell  oysters.  Wash  shells 
until  clean  as  polished  marble.  Place  in  dripping  pan  with  round 


816 


SHELL-FISH. 


shell  down  and  set  in  hot  oven  twenty  minutes.  JJo  nob  remove 
top  shell,  but  cook  in  both  shells,  and  when  done  serve  on  upper 
part  of  shell  instead  of  lower.  Season  highly  with  a bit  of  butter, 
cayenne  pepper  and  teaspoon  lemon  juice.  Or  open  shells  with  knife 
as  directed,  keeping  deepest  ones  for  use  and 
loosen  oysters  entirely  from  shell,  or  they 
will  draw  to  one  side.  Dredge  fine  bread- 
crumbs in  shells,  replace  oysters,  cover  with 
bread-crumbs,  and  bake.  When  lightly 
browned,  pour  teaspoon  melted  butter  over 
each,  moistening  crumbs  well  and  dust  with 
salt  and  pinch  cayenne.  It  hastens  the  brown- 
ing to  have  the  bread  dry.  Serve  four  or  five  on  a plate,  with  a quarter 
of  lemon  in  center.  Or  melt  some  butter,  season  with  minced  parsley 
and  pepper,  and  when  slightly  cooled,  roll  each  oyster  in  it,  taking 
care  that  it  drips  but  little,  and  lay  in  the  shells.  Add  to  each  shell 
a little  lemon  juice,  cover  with  grated  bread-crumbs,  place  in  baking 
pan  and  bake  in  quick  oven ; just  before  done,  add  a little  salt. 
Serve  in  shells.  Or,  having  washed  empty  shells,  place  them  in  pan 
in  very  hot  oven  and  when  hot  put  in  each  a bit  of  but- 
ter and  dust  of  pepper  with  a large  oyster  or  several 
small  ones  ; put  pan  in  oven  till  edges  curl,  then  take 
shells  up  on  hot  dish  and  serve  at  once.  Some  turn 
oysters  over  just  before  serving.  For  Boiled  Oysters^ 
wash  shell  oysters  perfectly  clean,  place  in  small  wire 
basket,  drop  in  kettle  of  boiling  water,  and  when  shells  open,  lift 
basket,  and  serve. 

Scallops. — As  sold  in  market  scallops  are  generally  ready  for 
cooking ; if  bought  in  shell,  boil  and  take  out  the  muscular  part  or 
heart,  as  that  is  the  only  part  used  in  cooking.  For  Baked  Scal- 
lops., boil  tender,  drain,  add  some  White  Sauce  and  place  in  buttered 
baking  dish,  covering  the  top  with  a layer  of  bread-crumbs  and 
brown  in  oven.  For  Chinese  boil  till  tender,  drain  and 

tear  apart  in  little  shreds.  Beat  three  eggs  a few  minutes ; have 
frying-pan  hot,  with  one  tablespoon  either  butter  or  lard,  add  eggs, 
then  scallops  and  stir  like  scrambled  eggs.  For  Fried  Scallops, 
wash  in  cold  salted  water,  drain  and  dry  as  oysters ; roll  in  corn- 
meal  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper,  fry  pieces  of  pork,  skim  out, 
and  fry  scallops  in  the  drippings  or  bread  them  and  fry  in  smoking 
hot  fat  like  doughnuts.  Southern  Fried  Scallops,  roll  in  flour  seas- 
oned with  salt  and  pepper  and  fry  in  half  lard  and  half  butter,  one- 
half  inch  of  depth  of  smoking  hot  fat  in  skillet.  A nice  dish  is 
Stewed  Scallops,  wash  and  cook  in  boiling  water  to  cover,  till  ten- 
der, almost  five  minutes,  drain,  and  dress  with  a White  Sauce  made 
by  stirring  one  tablespoon  each  butter  and  flour  over  the  fire  till 
well  mixed  and  then  slowly  add  one  cup  boiling  water  at  a time  till 
a pint  has  been  used ; seasDn  with  salt  and  pepper  and  let  boil  once ; 


SHELL-FISH, 


817 


then  add  the  Scallops,  take  from  the  fire  and  stir  in  an  egg  yolk.  If 
a Drawn  Butter  Sauce  is  wished,  add  two  heaping  tablespoons  of  but- 
ter to  the  AVhite  Sauce. 

Steioed  Shrimps. — Put  a pint  shelled  shrimps  in  stewpan  with 
three-fourths  pint  stock,  add  thickening  of  butter  and  flour,  season 
with  salt,  cayenne  and  nutmeg  to  taste  and  simmer  gently  three 
minutes.  Serve  garnished  with  croutons  of  fried  bread.  Or  stew  the 
shrimps  in  Cream  Sauce.  For  Curried  Shrimps.,  put  half  pound 
butter  in  stewpan,  add  three  or  four  sliced  onions  and  fry  golden 
brown,  then  stir  in  two  tablespoons  more  butter.  Have  tablespoon 
curry-powder  warmed  in  oven  and  mix  well  with  onions ; add  quart 
shelled  shrimps  and  cook  gently  five  or  ten  minutes,  stirring  often, 
taking  care  not  to  let  it  get  dry,  adding  more  butter  if  needed.  Salt 
to  taste  and  add  a little  lemon  juice  and  sugar  just  before  serving. 
Serve  boiled  rice  with  it  in  separate  dish.  Nice  for  luncheon.  For 
Shrimp  Pie one  quart  shelled  shrimps,  add  ’ cup  each  vinegar 
and  catsup  andtw^o  tablespoons  butter,  season  with  salt  and  pepper, 
scald  and  pour  in  earthen  dish,  strew  top  with  bread-crumbs  and 
bake  twenty  minutes. 

Potted  Shell-Fish. — Boil  fish  in  salt  and  water,  take  all  meat 
from  claws  and  tails,  put  in  stewpan  with  chopped  mushrooms  or 
truffles,  and  a little  butter,  and  simmer  gently  over  fire  ten  minutes, 
or  till  they  appear  to  be  done.  When  almost  done,  add  well  beaten 
yolks  of  three  eggs,  with  teacup  cream,  and  a little  well-chopped 
parsley.  Stew  all  together  a little  while,  until  consistency  of  moder- 
ately stiff  paste.  Press  into  pots,  and  cover  with  clarified  butter. 
Shrimps  may  be  potted  as  above  or  put  pint  shelled  shrimps  in  stew- 
pan w'ith  quarter  pound  clarified  or  fresh  butter,  blade  pounded 
mace,  cayenne  to  taste,  and  if  liked  a little  nutmeg ; heat  gradually 
but  do  not  boil,  and  when  heated  through  pour  into  small  pots  or 
jars  ; when  cold  cover  with  melted  butter  and  put  away  as  directed 
in  Potted  Meats. 

Fricasseed  Terrapin. — Cut  up  the  prepared  meat  from  a good- 
sized  terrapin  and  place  in  saucepan,  always  adding  the  juice  that 
escapes ; let  stew  a few  moments  and  add  a dressing  of  a gill  cream, 
two  tablespoons  butter,  teaspoon  flour,  powdered  yolk  of  a hard- 
boiled  egar  with  seasoning  of  salt,  pepper  and  pinch  of  cayenne,  let 
boil  and  just  before  serving  add  a gill  of  Tarragon  Vinegar.  For 
Terrapins  in  the  Shell,  to  the  prepared  meat  add  a tablespoon  or 
two  of  above  vinegar,  place  in  the  shell,  cover  with  bits  of  butter  and 
a layer  of  bread-crumbs  or  cracker-dust,  and  bake  ten  or  fifteen 
minntes  in  oven.  For  Stewed  Terrapin,  let  the  cut  up  meat  lay  in 
a marinade  of  spices,  a chopped  onion,  tablespoon  catsup,  seasoned 
with  salt  and  pepper,  for  half  an  hour  or  so,  then  add  as  much  milk 
as  wished,  and  when  it  boils  add  four  tablespoons  butter  and  two  of 
flour  rublied  smoothly  together ; simmer  gently  fifteen  or  twenty 
minutes,  then  add  the  Tarragon  Vinegar  and  serve  on  slices  of  toast. 

52 


818 


SOUPS. 


SOUPS. 


‘^Once  Tipon  a time”  soups  were  only  made  now  and  then  among 
American  housewives,  but  now  most  every  dinner  table  has  its 
ijoup  two  or’three  times  a week,  and  many  every  day,  which  is  as 
it  should  be,  as  soup  is  so  nutritious,  wholesome,  palatable  and 
economical  that  as  an  article  of  diet  it  should  rank  only  second  to 
bread,  and  to  make  it  with  flavors  properly  commingled,  is  an  art 
which  all  should  master ; it  requires  study  and  practice,  but  it  is 
surprising  from  what  a scant  allotment  of  material  a delicate  and 
appetizing  dish  may  be  produced,  and  there  are  enough  scraps  oi 
bones,  cooked  and  uncooked  meats,  trimmings  of  meats  and  vege- 
tables in  every  household  that  would  otherwise  go  to  waste,  to  sup- 
ply a nutritious  soup  for  every  day  in  the  year,  with  only  a slight 
expense  for  additional  material.  The  best  basis  for  soup  is  lean  un- 
cooked meat,  a pound  of  meat  (with  the  bone)  to  a quart  of  water ^ 
being  a generally  accepted  rule  to  which  may  also  be  added  chicken, 
turkey,  or  mutton  bones  well  broken  up ; a mixture  of  beef,  mutton 
and  veal,  with  a bit  of  ham  bone  with  meat  all  cut  fine,  makes  a 
a higher  flavored  soup  than  any  single  meat ; the  legs  of  all  meats 
are  rich  in  gelatine,  an  important  constituent  of  soup,  although  not 
adding  any  special  nutriment  to  it.  It  is  very  essential  that  the 
meat  perfectly  fresh  as  the. least  taint,  or  even  if  a little  old,  im- 
pairs the  flavor  of  the  soup,  and  the  meat  does  not  want  to  “hang,’’" 
for  the  fresher  it  is  the  better  the  soup ; it  may  be  coarse  and  tough 
and  refuse  bits  and  scraps  may  be  used  if  fresh,  all  comprising  to 
make  a dish  of  soup  which  will  meet  with  favor  from  every  one. 
There  are  two  classes  of  soup,  a thin  or  clear  one  and  a thick  or 
rich ; the  former  precedes  a heavier  course  of  meats,  etc.,  at  dinner 
and  refreshes  one,  acting  as  an  appetizer  for  the  rest  of  the  meal,: 


SOUPS. 


819 


while  the  latter  with  only  a few  additional  dishes  makes  a very  sat- 
isfactory and  easily  prepared  dinner.  Thick  soups  require  more 
seasoning  than  thin  ones  and  if  wanted  very  delicate  may  be  strained, 
and  should  be  about  the  consistency  of  cream  while  clear  soups 
should  be  perfectly  transparent,  For  all  soups  a pinch  of  sugar 
should  always  be  added.  The  variety  of  soups  is  without  limit,  and 
by  adding  “here  a little  and  there  a little”  one  can  produce  a new 
and  distinctive  variety  whenever  wished  ; but  the  usual  distinction 
given  them  is  seven  divisions ; Clear,  Fruit,  Mixed,  Plain,  Thick, 
Vegetable  and  White  Soups,  and  we  give  a large  variety  of  the  dif- 
ferent kinds  in  the  recipes  that  follow.  The  Fruit  Soups,  which  are 
largely  used  abroad,  are  made  of  any  of  the  berries  or  larger  fruits 
and  are  very  delicious,  served  hot  in  winter  or  cold  (iced)  in  sum- 
mer ; they  are  very  easily  prepared,  and  when  made  of  the  highly 
colored  raspberry  or  strawberry  and  served,  with  a spoonful  of  whip- 
ped cream  in  each  dish,  make  an  appetizing  and  elegant  first  course. 


Making  Soup. — Always  use  cold  water  in  making  all  soups 
that  the  juice  may  be  more  readily  extracted  from  the  meat;  skim 
well,  especially  during  the  first  hour,  and  cook  slowly.  There  is 
great  necessity  for  thorough  skimming,  and  to  help  the  scum  rise, 
pour  in  a little  cold  water  nowand  then,  and  as  the  soup  reaches  the 
boiling  point,  skim  it  off.  Use  salt  at  first  sparingly,  seasoning 
W’ith  salt  and  pepper  when  done;  allow  one  quart  soup  to  three  or 
four  persons.  When  remnants  of  cooked  meat  are  used,  chop  fine, 
crush  the  bones,  add  a ham  bone  or  bit  of  ham  or  salt  pork  and  all 
ends  of  roasts  and  fatty  parts,  and  the  brown  fat  of  the  roast;  make 
the  day  previous  to  use,  strain,  set  away  overnight  without  covering, 
skim  off  fat  (which  clarify  and  save  for  drippings),  and  it  is  ready 
to  heat  and  serve.  If  soup  is  wished  same  day  it  is  made  and  it 
is  too  greasy  add  a little  cold  water  when  done  and  the  grease  can 
be  easily  removed;  or  place  on  the  top  pieces  of  brown  paper  and 
they  wdll  absorb  the  fat.  In  using  fresh  meat  throw  pieces  as  cut 
into  required  quantity  of  cold  water  and  let  stand  until  juices  of  meat 
begin  to  color  it,  then  put  on  to  boil ; in  this  way  juices  are  more 
readily  drawn  out.The  soup  is  done  when  meat  is  juiceless. When  soup 
is  desired  for  a daily  first  course,  a stock-pot  should  be  especially 
provided,  with  a faucet  to  draw  off  the  clear  soup  to  be  seasoned  and 
flavored  for  each  day ; and  all  bones  and  bits  of  meat  left  after  din- 
ner can  be  thrown  into  kettle,  also  bits  of  vegetables  and  bread,  and 
gravies  that  are  left  from  roast  meats  and  cutlets,  In  this  way  there 
will  be  nothing  lost,  and  the  soups  can  be  varied  by  seasonings  and 
thickenings  of  differemt  kinds.  Every  two  or  three  days,  however, 
the  contents  of  the  kettle  should  be  turned  out,  after  all  liquid  has 


820  youi\s. 


been  drawn  off,  and  kettle  washed  clean  and  scalded,  for  if  this  is 
not  attended  to,  the  soups  will  soon  lose  their  piquant  flavor  and  be- 
come stale  ; there  is  also  for  making  soups,  a soup-kettle  (which  has  a 
double  bottom),  or  a large  iron  pot  with  a tight-fitting  tin  cover 
with  a hole  size  of  a large  darning-needle  in  it  at  one  side  of  handle. 
Keep  kettle  covered  closely ^ that  the  flavor  may  not  be  lost,  and  sim- 
mer slowly,  so  that  the  quantity  may  not  be  much  reduced  by  evapora- 
tion, but  if  it  has  boiled  away  (which  may  be  the  case  when  the 
meat  is  to  be  used  for  the  table),  pour  in  as  much  hot  water  as  is 
needed,  and  add  vegetables,  noodles,  or  any  thickening  desired. 
Vegetables  should  be  added  just  long  enough  before  soup  is  done  to 
allow  them  to  be  thoroughly  cooked,  adding  them  in  the  order  of 
length  of  cooking,  as  after  they  are  done  they  absorb  a portion  of 
the  soup.  An  excellent  soup  for  a small  family  may  be  made  from 
the  bones  and  trimmings  cut  from  a steak  before  broiling.  The 
bones  from  a rib  roast,  which  are  generally  cut  out  and  thrown 
away  by  the  butcher,  after  weighing,  should  always  be  ordered  sent 
with  roast  and  used  in  soup.  When  the  standard  soup  bone  is  used 
always  recook  the  second  day  as  a less  strong  but  very  nice  soup  is  thus 
made.  Rice,  sago,  pearled  barley,  vermicelli,  macaroni,  oatmeal, 
bread-crumbs,  pease,  beans,  parsnips,  carrots,  beets,  turnips,  garlic, 
shallots,  and  onions  are  desirable  additions  to  meat  soups.  The 
first  three  are  used  in  the  proportion  of  half  teacup  to  three  quarts 
soup,  wash  and  soak.  Rice  requires  half  to  three-quarters  of  an 
hour,  boiling  it  in  soup;  sago  cooks  in  fifteen  miimtes;  barley 
should  be  soaked  overnight,  or  for  several  hours ; boil  by  itself  in  a 
little  water  till  tender ; add  to  soup  just  before  serving.  Vermicelli 
and  macaroni  should  be  broken  up  small,  and  washed  thoroughly 
and  boiled  in  soup  half  an  hour ; or  some  prefer  to  cook  till  tender  in 
slightly  salted  w^ater.  If  a soup  is  wanted  without  any  addition  of 
vegetables,  but  thickened,  arrowroot  or  corn-starch  is  used  in  the 
proportion  of  two  rounded  teaspoons  of  latter  and  two  scant  teaspoons 
of  former  to  a quart  soup  ; mix  with  a little  water  until  smooth,  and 
add  when  soup  is  nearly  done.  Wheat  flour  is  also  used  for  thick- 
ening, but  it  requires  three  rounded  tablespoons  to  quart.  If  not  thick 
enough  to  suit  the  taste  more  may  be  added.  Browned  Flour  does 
not  thicken,  the  starchy  property  having  been  removed  in  the 
browning  process.  A piece  of  boiling  beef  pounded  to  a pulp,  with 
a bit  of  butter  and  flour,  and  rubbed  through  a sieve,  and  gradually 
incorpoiated  with  the  soup,  will  be  found  an  excellent  addition. 
When  the  soup  appears  to  be  too  thin  or  too  weak^  it  will  be  neces- 
sary to  remove  the  cover  of  the  boiler  and  allow  contents  to  boil 
till  some  of  the  watery  parts  have  evaporated  ; or  some  of  the  thick- 
ening materials  above  mentioned  should  be  added. 

Seasoning  Soup. — Seasonings  for  soups  may  be  varied  to  suit 
tastes.  The  simplest  may  have  only  pepper  and  salt,  while  the 
richest  may  have  a little  of  every  savor,  so  delicately  blended  that 


SOUPS. 


821 


no  one  is  conspicuous.  The  best  seasoning  is  that  which  is  made 
up  of  the  smallest  quantity  from  each  of  many  spices.  No  measure 
can  be  given,  because  the  good  soup  maker  must  be  a skillful 
taster.  There  must  be  a flavor  of  salt,  that  is,  the  water  must  not 
be  insipid  (less  is  needed  if  bits  of  salt  meat  are  used),  there  must 
be  a warm  tone  from  the  pepper,  but  not  the  taste  of  pepper ; in 
short  the  spicing  should  be  delicate  rather  than  profuse . F or  Brown 
Soups  use  the  dark  spices  and  all  kinds  of  vegetables  including  car- 
rots, tomatoes,  etc. ; a richer  flavor  is  given  the  soup  to  brown  the 
vegetables  and  where  bacon  and  ham,  which  give  a flavor  liked  by 
many  are  used,  the  former  can  be  fried  in  the  fat  after  the  meat  is 
browned  or  if  latter  is  not  used,  simply  brown  in  butter,  or  use  the 
fat  from  off  soup  stock.  For  White  Soups,  mace,  aromatic  seeds, 
white  pepper,  cream,  curry-powder,  onion,  potato,  white  turnip, 
celery,  parsnip,  salsify,  rice,  macaroni,  etc.,  give  the  best  desired  re- 
sults. In  general  soup  many  herbs,  either  fresh  or  dried  are  used 
as  seasoning,  also  different  spices  such  as  bay  leaves,  tarragon,  cher- 
vil, burnet,  allspice,  cinnamon,  ginger,  nutmeg,  cloves,  black  pepper, 
essence  of  anchovy,  lemon  peel  and  juice,  and  orange  juice,  are  all 
used.  The  latter  imparts  a finer  flavor  than  the  lemon,  and  the  acid  is 
much  milder.  Mushroom  Catsup,  Harvey’s  Sauce,  Chilli  Sauce,  and 
seasoning  of  different  catsups  and  sauces  may  be  combined  in 
various  proportions  in  an  almost  endless  variety  of  excellent  soups. 
Then  there  is  cress-seed,  parsley,  common,  lemon  and  orange  thyme, 
knotted  majoram,  sage,  mint,  winter  savory  and  celery,  or  celery- 
seed  pounded.  The  latter,  though  equally  strong,  does  not  impart 
the  delicate  sweetness  of  the  fresh  vegetable,  and  when  used  as  a 
substitute,  its  flavor  should  be  corrected  by  the  addition  of  a pinch 
of  sugar.  Delicate  flavors  such  as  aromatic  spices,  any  fruit  ex- 
tracts, orange  and  lemon  juice,  etc,,  should  be  added  just  before 
serving,  as  their  flavors  are  evaporated  by  the  heat,  and  some  only 
put  them  in  the  tureen  or  individual  dishes  and  pour  the  soup  over 
them.  Bay  leaf  is  among  soups  and  meats  what  vanilla  is  among 
sweets.  Skillfully  used  it  gives  that  flavor  of  French  cookery  that 
is  recognized  as  something  different  from  the  ordinary  home-made 
article,  even  by  those  who  cannot  tell  wherein  the  difference  consists. 
Of  course  there  are  many  others,  just  as  there  are  other  flavors  for 
ice-cream  besides  vanilla ; we  speak  of  its  relative  importance  to  ad- 
vise a particular  discretion  in  its  use.  One  large  bay  leaf  will  flavor 
two  gallons  of  soup,  and  only  a small  piece  is  wanted  in  a soup  for 
a family  dinner.  For  both  coloring  and  flavoring  soups,  use  Cara- 
mel, Browned  Flour,  ment  with  cloves  in  it,-  or  browned  with  butter 
and  sliced  onions,  fried  with  butter  and  flour  till  they  are  browned, 
and  then  rubbed  through  a sieve.  Poached  eggs  are  an  excellent 
addition  to  some  soups.  They  should  be  added  just  before  serving, 
one  for  each  person,  and  they  may  be  poached  in  water  or  dropped 
into  the  boiling  soup,  or  to  shape  them  nicely ; break  one  in  a but- 


SOUPS. 


822 


terecl  cup  and  place  cups  in  frying-pan,  pouring  water  around  and 
in  the  cups  ; when  done  take  out  carefully  and  add  to  soup.  This 
is  a nice  way  to  cook  them  to  be  served  alone,  only  bake  them  in 
o\\  . and  omit  the  water  from  the  cup,  putting  a little  salt  and  pep- 
per on  top  of  egg ; bake  three  minutes  and  serve  at  once  in  the 
cups  ; or  two  or  three  eggs,  well-beaten  and  added  just  before  pour- 
ing in  tureen,  make  a nice  thickening.  Cayenne  pepper  or  a bit  of 
red  pepper  pod,  is  considered  an  improvement  in  soup,  but  must 
be  cautiously  used.  Forcemeat  Balls,  and  Croutons,  dice  of  fried 
or  toasted  bread,  are  also  used.  If  soup  is  salted  too  highly,  add  a 
teaspoon  sugar  and  a tables|)oon  vinegar,  and  it  will  help  modify  it. 

Stock. — This  is  to  soup  what  j^'east  is  to  bread  and  although 
many  soups  are  made  as  above,  Avithout  any  stock,  yet  when  one  has 
learned  the  art  of  making  the  latter  she  Avill  always  find  herself 
ready  to  prepare  a dish  of  delicious  soup  at  almost  a minutes’  warn- 
ing, and  the  mystery  which  seems  to  surround  the  simple  word  of 
“stock”  Avill  be  unraA^elled  with  her  first  attempt.  To  make  a Plain 
Stock.,  take  in  proportion  of  one  pound  meat  and  bones  to  one  quart 
cold  water,  unless  it  is  to  be  boiling  seven  or  nine  hours  making  a 
Jelly  Stock,  when  add  a little  more  water.  It  is  better  to  cut  the 
meat  from  the  bones,  cutting  it  in  small  pieces  and  breaking  the 
bones  fine,  some  indeed  believe  in  crushing  them  almost  to  a pow- 
der and  when  so  treated  a little  Avater  must  be  added  as  they  are  be- 
ing crushed,  and  they  must  then  be  placed  in  a sack.  But  simply 
breaking  them,  or  rather  having  the  butcher  do  it,  is  all  that  is 
necessary,  as  that  allows  the  quicker  freeing  of  the  gelatine  of  which 
the  l)ones  are  chiefly  composed,  two  ounces  of  them  containing  as 
much  gelatine  as  a pound  of  meat;  so  that  when  equal  portions 
bones  and  meat  are  taken,  the  stock  Avhen  cold  will  be  a jelly,  but  if 
only  meat  is  used  and  but  little  bone  the  stock  will  be  liquid.  Stock 
made  only  of  bones  lacks  in  flavor  as  they  do  not  contain  a particle 
of  osniazome  v/hich  is  that  part  of  the  meat  which  gmes  flavor  to  the 
stock.  The  flesh  of  old  animals  contains  more  osmazome  than  that 
of  young  ones,  and  dark  meats  more  than  white,  and  make  the  stock 
miore  fragrant.  By  roasting  meat  the  osmazome  appears  to  acquire 
higher  properties ; so  by  putting  the  remains  of  roast  meats  into 
stock  a better  flavor  is  obtained.  There  is  also  contained  in  the 
meat,  fibres,  fat,  and  albumen;  the  fibres  are  inseparable  and  con- 
stitute almost  all  that  remains  of  the  meat  after  it  has  undergone 
a long  boiling  ; most  of  the  fat  dissolves  by  cooking  and  the  albu- 
men is  of  the  nature  of  the  Avhite  of  eggs  ; it  can  be  dissolved  only 
in  cold  or  tepid  water,  and  coagulates  Avhen  it  is  put  in  water  not 
quite  at  the  boiling  point.  From  this  property  in  albumen,  it  is 
evident  that  if  the  meat  is  put  into  hot  or  boiling  water  or  the  water 
is  made  to  boil  up  quickly  afterAvard,  the  albumen,  in  both  cases, 
hardens.  In  the  first  it  rises  to  the  surface,  in  the  second  it  remains 
in  the  meat,  but  in  both  it  prevents  the  gelatine  and  osmazome  from 


«OUPS. 


823 


dissolving ; and  hence  a thin  and  tasteless  stock  will  be  obtained. 
It  ought  to  be  known,  too,  that  the  coagulation  of  the  albumen  in  the 
meat,  always  takes  place,  more  or  less,  according  to  the  size  of  the 
piece,  as  the  parts  farthest  from  the  surface  always  acquire  that  de- 
gree of  heat  which  congeals  it  before  entirely  dissolving  ir,  for  this 
reason  the  meat  is  better  cut  in  small  pieces. 

The  meat  must  be  fresh  as  possible  (the  same  as  for  soup)  to 
obtain  finest  flavored  stock,  and  should  be  cooked  from  three  to 
eight  hours  ; the  shorter  time  making  a Liquid  Stock  the'  latter  a 
Jelly  Stock.  Cook  very  slowly,  letting  it  heat  gradually  as  the 
soaking  of  the  meat  in  the  cold  water  while  it  is  being  heated  ex- 
tracts the  juice  better  and  the  latter  mingles  more  perfectly  and  so 
gives  a finer  flavor,  and  for  that  reason,  letting  the  meat  stand  an 
hour  or  so  in  the  kettle  of  water  before  placing  it  on  stove  is  recom- 
mended by  some.  The  proportion  of  salt  used  in  making  stock  is 
about  one  tablespoon,  not  more,  to  a gallon  of  water,  being  used 
for  the  purpose  of  separating  the  blood  and  slime  from  the  meat ; 
the  latter  will  rise  just  as  boiling  commences,  in  the  form  of  scum 
and  should  be  removed  immediately  as  the  agitation  of  the  water 
breaks  it,  and  it  will  mingle  speedily  with  the  stock  and  make  the 
latter  cloudy ; a dash  of  cold  Avater  added  to  kettle  just  as  stock 
boils  will  assist  the  scum  to  rise,  skim  often,  set  back  and  let  stock 
boil  gently  on  one  side  or  in  one  place,  and  not  all  over ; “the  pot 
should  smile,  not  laugh,”  is  a trite  but  true  saying  as  rapid  boiling 
hardens  the  fibre  of  the  meat  and  the  savory  flavor  escapes  with  the 
steam  , the  simmering  also  assists  in  clarifying  and  if  gently  cooked, 
stock  Avill  often  be  quite  clear  after  straining.  As  regards  time  of 
cooking.,  if  prepared  and  made  as  above  the  juices,  etc.,  will  be  well 
extracted  in  two  or  three  hours  and  the  flavor  is  injured  by  too 
much  cooking.  If  a Jelly  Stock  is  wished  cook  the  seven  or  nine 
hours.  When  any  stock  is  done,  strain  carefully  through  a clean 
towel  folded  several  times,  and  laid  in  a colander  set  over  a stone 
crock  or  jar;  never  allow  it  to  stand  and  cool  in  pot  in  which  it 
Avas  cooked,  but  always  strain  in  the  crock  as  directed.  Do  not 
squeeze  towel  through  which  it  is  strained — simply  let  the  stock  run 
through  it,  and  let  cool  Avithout  covering,  except  Avith  a sieve  or 
cheese  cloth  cover — if  it  Avere  covered  with  a plate,  or  any  other 
covering  which  Avould  confine  the  steam,  it  would  be  injured,  be- 
cause the  steam  condensing  upon  inside  of  cover  Avould  fall  back 
into  it,  and,  in  Avarm  Aveather,  this  might  cause  it  to  sour.  Let  it 
cool  quickly  as  the  sooner  it  is  cold  the  finer  the  flavor  and  the 
longer  it  Avill  keep.  In  cold  weather  it  may  be  kept  a Aveek  but  in 
summer  it  will  need  thorough  scalding  every  other  day  probably ; 
letting  it  boil  a few  moments,  not  simply  warming  it,  as  that  only 
causes  it  to  sour  more  quickly.  Before  stock  is  first  cooled 
some  add  salt  till  nicely  seasoned,  thinking  it  aids  in  the  preserva- 
tion of  the  stock.  After  it  has  cooled,  letting  it  stand  overnight  is 


824 


SOUPS. 


best,  remove  the  cake  of  grease  that  forms  on  top  and  then  clarify, 
if  necessary,  as  described  hereafter ; although  as  the  cake  assists  in 
excluding  the  air  it  is  well  to  let  it  remain  on  the  stock  till  some  of 
the  latter  is  needed.  If  stock  is  wanted  shortly  after  straining,  add 
a little  cold  water  and  the  grease  will  rise  and  can  be  readily  skim- 
med off  and  then  reheated.  From  this  can  be  made  all  the  various 
kinds  of  soups  adding  vegetables  and  flavoring  as  given  in  Making 
and  Seasoning  Soups.  Where  a Jelly  Stock  is  made  it  is  nice  to  put 
some  in  pint  self-sealing  glass  cans,  as  it  can  be  readily  melted  by 
placing  can  in  hot  water,  and  then  poured  in  kettle  and  water,  etc., 
added  as  needed.  When  the  jelly  is  sliced  off  for  use,  after  being  kept 
in  a crock,  scrape  off  any  sediment  that  may  be  at  bottom.  In  using 
any  stock,  whatever  is  added  in  making  the  soup,  as  rice,  tapioca, 
vegetables,  etc.,  should  first  be  cooked  tender  as  much  boiling  injures 
the  flavor  of  the  stock  and  for  that  reason,  the  better  way  in  making 
any  Vegetable  Soup,  is  to  cook  the  vegetables  tender  in  water, then  add 
stock  till  as  rich  as  wished  and  flavor  and  season  as  preferred.  A 
Complex  Stock  is  made  of  two  or  more  kinds  of  meat,  or  fowl  cooked 
together,  and  the  flavor  may  be  varied  by  using  in  it  a little  ham, 
anchovy,  sausage,  or  a calf’s  foot.  Sprigs  of  herbs,  and  whole  spices 
may  be  used  in  seasoning,  and  afterwards  strained  out,  and  whole 
vegetables  such  as  onions,  turnips,  carrots,  tomatoes,  etc.,  may  be 
added  when  making  stock  after  it  has  been  skimmed,  and  cooked 
with  it,  skimming  out  before  straining;  but  they  cause  it  to  sour 
much  more  quickly  and  unless  to  be  used  soon  ace  not  advisable 
Turnips  should  certainly  be  omitted  in  summer  as  they  will  cause 
sourness  quicker  than  any  other  vegetable.  White  Stock  is  made 
as  Plain  Stock  using  veal,  poultry  or  any  light  meats.  As  some 
make  with  vegetables  we  give  a recipe  or  two.  Fish  Stock  for 
soup  is  made  in  the  same  manner  as  that  of  meat ; a good  rule  be- 
ing two  pounds  of  beef  or  veal,  or  if  plenty  of  fish  omit  the  meat, 
any  kinds  of  trimmings  of  White  fish,  cut  up,  when  preparing  them 
for  table ; put  in  two  quarts  cold  water,  skim  and  add  two  onions, 
bunch  of  sweet  herhs,  two  carrots,  and  rind  of  half  a lemon  ; simmer 
two  hours,  strain  and  finish  as  any  stock.  When  a richer  stock  is 
wanted  fry  the  vegetables  and  fish  before  adding  the  water.  Fish 
Stock  sours  much  more  quickly  than  any  other  stock,  so  do  not 
make  long  before  wanted.  Ironing  and  baking  day  is  the  best 
time  for  making  all  stock  and  in  making  a Complex  Stock  the 
Kitchen  Queen  may  use  any  combination  of  meats,  bones,  etc.,  at 
command  and  with  care,  will  have  the  foundation  of  a savor}^  dish 
with  which  to  tempt  the  appetites  of  her  subjects,  furnishing  them 
with  something  in  whicli  every  particle  of  nourishment  in  the  in- 
gredients used  has  been  extracted ; and  they  are  at  once  refreshed 
almost  as  soon  as  one  who  depends  upon  his  glass  of  wine  as  a 
stimulus.  For  Ecomonical  Stock,  make  of  steak  or  roast  beef  bones 


SOUPS. 


825 


with  the  meat  on  them,  after  cooking,  adding  a little  piece  of  fresh 
meat,  or  none,  at  all,  and  allowing  it  to  simmer  at  least  five  hours  ; 
strain,  remove  all  fat  the  next  day,  and  it  will  be  ready  for  use.  Or 
to  a soup  bone  add  any  trimmings  of  fresh  meat  or  poultry,  roast 
beef  bones,  an  onion  stuck  with  eight  or  ten  cloves,  a turnip,  two 
carrots,  tablespoon  salt,  bunch  of  herbs  as  given  in  Meats,  teaspoon 
sugar  and  cold  water  in  proportion  given.  Let  simmer  gently  and 
strain  and  finish  as  directed.  F or  a Medium  Stock  take  four  pounds 
shin  of  beef  or  four  of  knuckle  of  veal  or  two  pounds  each  with 
trimmings  of  poultry,  etc.,  and  quarter  pound  lean  bacon  or  ham, 
with  vegetables  as  above,  adding  half  dozen  stalks  of  celery,  and  a 
tomato  or  two  gives  a delicious  flavor.  Make  as  above  or  cut  up 
meat  and  bacon  or  ham  into  two-inch  squares ; rub  two  tablespoons 
butter  on  bottom  of  kettle,  add  meat  and  other  ingredients  with 
half  pint  cold  water ; cover  and  cook  till  the  bottom  has  become 
lined  with  a pale  jelly-like  substance ; then  add  four  quarts  cold 
water,  skim  as  needed  and  simmer  gently  four  or  five  hours  and  fin- 
ish as  above.  For  a JRich  Stock  take  four  pounds  each  shin  of 
beef  and  knuckle  of  veal,  half  pound  lean  ham  or  a ham  bone  and  a 
calf’s  foot,  with  the  vegetables  given  above,  or  not,  as  wished.  For 
a White  Stocky  cut  up  five  pounds  shin  of  veal  and  one  chicken, 
put  in  pot  with  the  bone  and  a gallon  and  a half  water.  Some  fry 
the  meat  in  the  pot  with  a little  butter  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes 
before  adding  water.  Skim  as  directed,  then  simmer  two  or  three 
hours,  add  three  stalks  celery,  one  onion,  white  turnip,  blade  mace 
and  any  other  vegetables  wished  that  are  given  in  the  list  used  in 
White  Stock  or  Soup.  The  chicken  can  be  omitted,  but  veal, 
chicken,  fish,  oysters,  etc.,  either  singly  or  two  or  more  combined 
alv/ays  form  the  basis  of  above. 

Clarifying  Stock. — To  clarify  a gallon  of  stock,  take  whites 
and  shells  of  two  or  three  eggs  with  tablespoon  cold  water  to 
each  egg ; break  up  shells  and  beat  with  the  whites  and  cold  water, 
place  in  saucepan,  pour  the  cold  stock  upon  them,  set  over  fire,  and 
let  slowly  reach  boiling  point,  stirring  it  four  or  five  times  to  loosen 
the  egg  from  the  bottom ; as  it  boils  the  egg  will  harden  and  rise  to 
surface  in  a thick  scum.  When  stock  appears  quite  clear  under  the 
scum  pour  it  very  gently  into  a folded  towel  laid  in  a colander, 
which  must  be  set  over  a large  bowl,  and  allow  it  to  run  through 
the  towel  without  squeezing  it.  This  clarified  stock  is  also  called 
Clear  Soup  or  Consomme. 

I 

Almond  Soup. — Boil  four  pounds  beef,  or  veal,  and  half  a neck 
of  mutton,  gently  in  water  to  cover  till  stock  is  strong  and  meat  very 
tender;  strain,  and  set  it  on  fire,  adding  ingredients  in  proportion 
of  half  pound  vermicelli,  four  blades  mace,  and  six  cloves,  to  two 
quarts  stock.  Let  it  boil  till  it  has  the  flavor  of  the  spices.  Have 
ready  half  pound  almonds,  blanched  and  2:)ounded  very  fine,  yolks 


826 


SOUPS. 


of  six  eggs  boiled  hard ; mixing  the  almonds,  whilst  pounding,  with 
a little  of  the  soup,  lest  the  former  should  grow  oily ; pound  them 
till  they  are  a mere  pulp,  and  keep  adding  to  them,  by  degrees,  a 
little  soup  until  they  are  thoroughly  mixed  together.  Let  soup  be 
cool  while  adding  above  and  stir  till  perfectly  smooth.  Just  before 
serving  add  gill  thick  cream.  Or  take  a quart  of  jellied  White 
Stock  ; let  heat  and  add  to  it  watei  if  needed,  and  a pint  of  cream  made 
hot  in  custard  kettle  flavored  with  rind  of  a lemon.  Add  the  almonds 
and  a thickening  of  two  tablespoons  butter  and  three  of  flour,  with  a 
seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper  and  a little  mace.  • Let  cook  twenty 
minutes,  and  serve. 

Apple  Soup. — Peel,  quarter  and  core  about  two  pounds  good 
cooking  apples  and  stew  gently  in  three  quarts  stock  till  tender ; 
rub  all  through  a puree  sieve,  add  six  cloves,  white  pepper,  cayenne 
and  ginger  to  taste,  boil  up  once  and  serve.  Or  slice  half  dozen 
pared  apples  and  cook  till  tender  in  a very  little  water  adding  tea- 
cup sugar  and  juice  of  one  lemon ; take  off  and  let  cool.  Slice 
twelve  apples  and  put  into  two  quarts  water  with  third  of  a pound 
each  currants  and  seeded  raisins  and  cook  till  soft,  add  cup  sugar 
and  strain  through  a cloth  or  puree  sieve  ; pour  this  over  the  cooked 
sliced  apples,  adding  juice  of  another  lemon,  if  wished,  and  serve 
when  cold,  with  a piece  of  ice  in  each  dish.  Or  With  Dried  Apples., 
to  three  quarts  water  add  cup  prunes  or  part  raisins  ; cook  an  hour, 
add  cup  dried  apples,  soaked  if  necessary,  two  tablespoons  sago  and 
a small  stick  cinnamon ; when  apples  are  tender,  in  about  an  hour, 
add  juice  of  one  lemon,  or  slices  of  a pared  lemon  , sweeten  to  taste 
and  serve  hot  in  winter  or  iced  in  summer.  Corn-starch  may  be 
used  instead  of  the  sago,  adding  it  just  before  serving;  if  too  thick 
add  water  till  consistency  of  good  cream.  Can  be  made  same  with 
fresh  apples,  and  is  a delicious  soup  with  either. 

Amber  Soup. — Slice  a medium-sized  onion,  carrot  and  half  a 
white  turnip  and  fry  with  some  ham  or  salt  pork,  cut  in  dice,  fif- 
teen minutes  ; put  in  soup  kettle,  add  a bunch  of  sweet  herbs  and  a 
gallon  of  any  stock  made  without  vegetables.  Cook  three-quarters 
of  an  hour,  strain,  clarify,  reheat,  add  teaspoon  Caramel,  season  to 
taste  and  serve. 

Artichoke  Soup. — Put  a turnip  and  onion  cut  in  thin  slices, 
into  saucepan  with  half  head  cut  celery,  three  slices  lean  bacon  or 
ham  and  three  tablespoons  butter,  and  place  over  fire  fifteen  min- 
utes, stirring  to  prevent  scorching.  Wash  and  pare  four  pounds 
Jerusalem  artichokes,  cut  into  thin  slices  and  add  the  other  ingred- 
ients with  pint  of  White  Stock.  Stew  all  to  smooth  pulp,  add  an- 
other pint  and  a half  stock,  stirring  in  well,  with  seasoning  of  salt, 
cayenne  and  sugar  to  taste.  Put  through  puree  sieve,  return  to 
saucepan  and  simmer  five  minutes,  skimming  well,  add  hal/ 
boiling  cream,  or  pint  hot  milk,  and  serve  with  Croutons. 


SOUPS. 


827 


Asparagus  Soup. — Cut  tops  from  thirty  heads  asparagus  iu 
about  half  inch  pieces  and  simmer  them  gently  in  slightly  salted 
water  to  cover ; boil  the  stalks  left  and  strain  through  a sieve,  rub- 
bing through  any  tender  parts  of  stalks,  adding  a little  salt  and 
some  like  a very  little  sugar  ; warm  three  pints  White  Stock,  add  a 
small  lump  butter  and  teaspoon  flour  previously  cooked  by  heating 
butter  and  slowly  stirring  in  flour ; then  add  asparagus  pulp.  Boil 
slowly  quarter  of  an  hour,  stirring  in  two  or  three  tablespoons 
cream  ; color  soup  with  teaspoon  Spinach  Coloring  and  just  before 
serving,  add  asparagus  tops  with  the  water  in  which  they  were 
cooked.  Some  use  only  a quart  stock,  and  add  a pint  more  cream 
or  milk,  making  Cream  of  Asparagus  Soup.  When  so  much  cream 
is  added  water  may  be  used  instead  of  stock.  The  Spinach  Coloring 
is  used  to  heighten  the  color,  but  is  not  a necessity.  Or  omit  all 
cream  and  add  a few  leaves  of  white  beet  and  lettuce,  a little  mint,  sor- 
rel and  marjoram,  and  serve  poured  over  the  crust  of  a French  roll.  To 
make  With  Pease.,  boil  a pint  and  a half  split  pease  till  tender,  rub 
through  sieve  and  add  cup  stock,  stew  half  pint  asparagus,  cut 
small,  in  three  quarts  water  with  four  young  onions,  a head  of  let- 
tuce, shredded,  and  half  head  cut  celery  till  tender,  then  put  all 
together,  stew  a few  minutes,  add  half  pint  cream  and  little  Spinach 
Coloring  and  serve.  The  pease  will  require  cooking  about  two  and. 
one-half  hours  and  other  vegetables  an  hour.  Fresh  Pease  may  be 
used  same  way  cooking  till  tender. 

Barley  Soup. — Put  into  a pot  two  pounds  shin  of  beef,  quarter 
pound  pearled  barley,  large  bunch  parsle^q  four  onions,  six  pota- 
toes, salt  and  pepper  to  taste  and  four  quarts  water.  Simmer  gently 
four  hours,  rub  through  sieve,  boil  up  once  and  serve.  For  Cream 
of  Barley  Soup^  put  a cup  pearled  barley  with  an  onion  and  small 
piece  each  mace  and  cinnamon  in  three  pints  chicken  stock  and 
cook  slowly  five  hours;  rub  through  sieve  and  add  one  and  a half 
pints  boiling  cream  or  milk  ; if  milk,  add  also  two  tablespoons  but- 
ter ; season  to  taste.  If  liked  richer  beat  yolks  of  four  eggs  with  lit- 
tle milk  and  stir  into  the  hot  milk  or  cream  a minute  or  two  before 
adding  it  to  soup. 

Bean  Soup. — Boil  a small  soup  bone  in  about  two  quarts  water 
until  meat  can  be  separated  from  bone,  remove  latter,  add  a large  cup 
white  beans  soaked  for  two  hours,  boil  for  an  hour  and  a half,  add 
three  potatoes,  half  a turnip  and  a parsnip,  all  sliced  fine,  boil  half  an 
hour  longer,  and  just  before  serving  sprinkle  in  a few  dry  bread- 
crumbs ; season  with  salt  and  pepper, and  serve  with  raw  onions, sliced 
very  fine,  for  those  who  like  them.  For  Turtle  Bean  Soup.,  soak  one 
pint  black  beans  overnight,  then  put  them  in  three  quarts  water  with 
beef  bones  or  a small  piece  of  lean  salt  pork  and  some  add  carrot 
and  an  onion,  boil  three  or  four  hoars,  strain,  season  with  salt,  pep- 
5)er,  cloves  and  lemon  juice.  Put  ni  a few  slices  of  lemon,  and  if 


828 


SOUPS. 


wished  add  slices  of  hard-boiled  eggs.  Serve  with  Croutons  placed 
in  the  tureen.  Or  make  a Saturday  Soup;  for  as  baked  beans  and 
brown  bread  form  a Sunday  breakfast  for  so  many  it  will  be  a use- 
ful and  economical  soup  for  Saturday  dinner.  Put  on  the  pot  with 
more  beans,  soaked  overnight  if  wished  than  enough  for  Sunday’s 
breakfast,  with  water,  and  slice  of  salt  pork  ; parboil  till  beans  are 
ready  to  be  put  in  oven.  Take  out  pork  and  part  of  beans,  leaving 
enough  for  the  soup ; place  pot  on  back  of  stove  and  keep  hot. 
Three-quarters  of  an  hour  before  dinner  heat  soup,and  add  more  water 
and  vegetables  as  in  “Bean  Soup  a carrot  may  also  be  added.  For 
White  Bean  Soap^  boil  till  tender  a quart  of  white  beans  in  water. 
Divide  in  halves,  mashing  one  half,  thin  with  a little  stock  and  rub 
through  a sieve.  Boil  again  with  a head  of  celery  cut  fine  and  a lit- 
tle more  stock  till  a smooth  soup  is  obtained.  Now  add  the  half 
of  beans  that  has  been  reserved,  together  with  a mild  seasoning  of 
sweet  herbs,  salt,  pepper,  and  chopped  parsley.  Boil  fifteen  min- 
utes and  serve.  A Meatless  Bean  Soup  is  made  by  parboiling  one 
pint  beans,  drain  off  water,  add  fresh,  let  boil  until  perfectly  tender, 
season  with  pepper  and  salt,  add  a piece  of  butter  size  of  a walnut, 
or  more  if  preferred ; when  done  skimout  half  the  beans,  leavingthe 
broth  with  the  remaining  half  in  the  kettle  ; now  add  a teacup  sweet 
cream  or  good  milk,  and  dozen  or  mors  crackers  broken  up  ; let  it 
boil  up,  and  serve.  For  any  bean  soup  an  onion  may  first  be  fried 
brown  in  kettle  with  some  ham  or  bacon  fat,  then  the  beans,  water, 
etc.,  added  ; and  when  tender  all  may  be  rubbed  through  puree  sieve, 
reheated  and  a little  thickening  added  if  needed. 

Beef  Soup. — Take  cracked  joints  of  beef,  and  after  putting 
meat  in  kettle  and  covering  it  well  with  water,  let  it  come  to  a boil, 
when  it  should  be  well  skimmed.  Set  kettle  where  meat  will  sim- 
mer slowly  until  it  is  thoroughly  done,  keeping  it  closely  covered 
all  the  time.  The  next  day  remove  fat  which  hardens  on  top  of 
soup.  This  gives  a plain  stock.  Peel,  wash,  and  slice  three  good- 
sized  potatoes  and  put  them  into  soup  or  stock  ; cut  up  half  a head 
of  white  cabbage  in  shreds,  and  add  to  this  a pint  of  dried  corn  that 
has  been  soaked  overnight,  two  onions,  one  head  of  celery,  and  to- 
matoes if  desired.  When  these  are  done,  and  they  should  simmer 
slowly,  care  being  taken  that  they  do  not  burn,  season  with  salt  and 
pepper,  strain  (or  not  as  preferred)  and  serve.  The  different  varie- 
ties of  beef  soup  are  formed  by  this  method  of  seasoning  and  using 
different  vegetables.  Besides  onions,  celery,  cabbage,  tomatoes  and 
potatoes,  many  use  a few  carrots,  turnips  and  beets ; sago,  rice  or 
barley  will  give  the  soup  consistency,  and  are  to  be  preferred  to 
flour  for  the  purpose.  Parsley,  thyme  and  sage  are  the  favorite 
herbs  for  seasoning,  but  should  be  used  sparingly  and  Force-meat 
Balls  are  always  an  improvement.  A Steak  Soup  is  made  by  put- 
ting fresh  bones  and  trimmings  from  a sirloin  steak  over  fire  after 
breTikfast  in  three  quarts  water,  and  cooking  steadily  until  about  an 


SOUPS. 


829 


hour  before  dinner,  when  add  two  onions,  one  carrot,  three  com- 
mon-sized potatoes,  all  sliced,  some  parsley  cut  fine,  a red  pepper 
and  salt  to  taste.  This  makes  a delicious  soup,  sufficient  for  three 
persons.  All  soups  are  more  palatable  seasoned  with  onions  and 
red  pepper,  using  the  seeds  of  latter  with  care,  as  they  are  very 
strong.  For  Economical  Soup^  take  a soup  bone  (any  piece  of  beef 
not  to  fat  will  do),  wash  well,  place  in  kettle  with  sufficient  cold 
water  for  soup  ; let  it  boil,  skim  thoroughly  and  continue  to  boil 
slowly  from  three  to  six  hours,  according  to  size  and  quality  of 
meat ; one  hour  before  dinner,  put  in  cabbage  cut  in  quarters, 
sprinkling  it  with  salt ; quarter  of  an  hour  after  add  turnips  halved 
or  quartered  according  to  size  ; quarter  hour  after  adding  turnips,  add 
potatoes  whole,  or  cut  in  two  if  large  (turnips  and  potatoes  should 
be  pared  and  laid  in  cold  water  half  an  hour  before  using)  . When 
done  take  out  vegetables  and  meat,  small  pieces  of  former  will 
remain  to  be  served  in  soup,  place  in  heater,  or  if  you  have 
no  heater,  place  plates  over  a pot  or  skillet  of  boiling  water.  If 
there  is  not  enough  soup,  add  boiling  water,  stir  in  a little  thicken- 
ing of  flour  and  water  if  needed,  let  it  boil  thoroughly ; season  to 
taste  with  salt  and  pepper  and  serve  at  once.  The  soup  will  be  ex- 
cellent, and  vegetables  and  meat  will  make  a nice  Boiled  Dinner. 
A much  prized  southern  dish  is  Okra  Beef  Soup^  fry  one  pound 
round  steak  cut  in  bits,  two  tablespoons  butter,  and  one  sliced 
onion,  till  very  brown ; add  to  three  or  four  quarts  water  in  soup 
kettle,  and  boil  slowly  one  hour ; then  add  pint  sliced  okra,  and 
simmer  three  hours  or  more ; season  with  salt  and  pepper,  strain 
and  serve.  Some  add  with  the  okra  fivq  tomatoes  and  a finely- 
chopped  pepper.  If  wished  richer  use  Plain  Stock  instead  of  water. 

Black  Soup. — Take  the  neck  and  any  trimmings  or  pieces  of 
tame  goose,  when  cutting  it  up  for  frying ; put  it  in  two  quarts  cold 
water  with  a very  little  salt,  let  cook  slowly,  skim,  and  add  a carrot, 
parsnip,  onion  with  half  dozen  cloves  stuck  in  it,  half  a turnip  and 
cook  till  all  are  tender ; strain,  return  to  kettle,  and  place  on  back 
of  stove.  To  kill  the  goose  pick  off  a few  feathers  at  neck,  then  in- 
sert a sharp  knife,  and  let  the  blood  drip  in  a cup,  strain  and  stir 
two  tablespoons  flour  in  smoothly.  Add  this  to  kettle  of  broth, 
stirring  well  all  the  time  till  served  ; let  just  boil,  add  a little  nice 
syrup  and  powdered  cloves  to  taste,  then  two  or  three  tablespoons 
vinegar,  the  chopped  meat  from  the  goose  and  serve  at  once.  Made 
from  pork  in  same  way,  being  careful  to  stir  the  blood  all  the  time 
when  running.  A dish  which  is  often  served  as  a dessert  with  this 
soup  is  a Sioedish  Pudding^  for  a quart  of  blood  from  beef  or  pork 
add  two  gills  cider,  salt  and  pepper  and  a finely  chopped  onion, 
fried  in  a little  butter  or  lard  five  or  ten  minutes, Tialf  teaspoon  pow- 
dered ginger  and  sugar  to  taste,  with  best  Graham  or  Rye  flour  till 
a thick  batter;  pour  in  a well-buttered  mold  and  steam  two  hours. 


830 


SOUPS. 


Serve  with  a dressing  of  melted  butter  accompanied  with  a dish  of 
Cranberry  Sauce.  This  pudding  is  nice  sliced  cold  and  fried. 

Bouillon. — Put  a three  or  four  pound  soup  bone,  selecting  one 
with  plenty  of  meat,  in  four  quarts  of  cold  water  with  level  table- 
spoon salt ; let  come  to  a boil,  skim  thoroughly  ; then  add  one  whole 
medium-sized  turnip  and  onion  pared,  with  latter  stuck  with  half 
dozen  cloves ; a scraped  carrot  and  a Bunch  of  Herbs  as  given  in 
meats  ; or  it  may  be  composed  of  parsley,  small  stalk  of  celery,  half  a 
bay  leaf,  blade  mace  and  five  pepper-corns  (if  pepper  is  used) ; or  t lie 
bunch  may  be  omitted  entirely,  or  use  only  parsley.  But  all  these 
little  seasonings  add  greatly  to  the  flavor  and  when  one  becomes  ac- 
customed to  keep  them  on  hand,  the  expense  and  extra  trouble  are 
comparatively  nothing.  Let  cook  three  hours,  if  cooked  too  long 
it  will  not  be  so  clear ; and  the  bone  can  be  recooked,  so  it  is  fully 
as  economical,  and  secures  better  results.  Strain  and  set  away, 
without  covering,  excepting  with  a thin  cloth.  When  wanted  for 
use  remove  fat,  heat  and  strain ; then  reheat.  This  second  strain 
ing  generally  prevents  necessity  of  clarifying,  but  if  cloudy,  clarify 
as  directed.  This  gives  Plain  Bouillon  to  which  add  Caramel  till  of 
color  desired,  as  the  more  added  the  deeper  the  shade,  but  too  high 
a flavor  does  not  want  to  be  given.  When  making  it  just  for  the 
Bouillon,  for  three  pints  of  latter  put  tablespoon  sugar  in  frying  pan 
and  let  brown,  stirring  all  the  time.  Then  add  gradually  cup  of 
the  bouillon  or  water,  as  if  added  all  at  once  it  would  boil  over; 
cook  a few  moments,  and  add  to  kettle  ; if  any  sugar  is  left  in  pan 
add  a little  more  bouillon,  cook  a moment  or  two  and  add.  Serve 
very  hot  in  bouillon  cups.  For  Philadelphia  Bouillon  add  to  the 
soup  bone  a chicken,  a pound  of  shin  of  veal  and  a small  slice  ham ; 
if  the  meat  is  cut  from  bone,  in  order  to  break  the  latter  up,  place 
bones  in  kettle  first  then  put  the  meat  on  them,  fry  the  whole  onion 
in  little  ham  fat  add  with  other  ingredients  and  cook  four  hours. 
True  Bouillon  is  served  as  abc  ve  for  company  dinners,  receptions, 
and  evening  parties,  and  should  be  used  at  many  a home  dinner; 
but  additions  may  be  made  to  it  and  one  of  the  nicest  is  the  Sweed- 
ish  Dumplings,  rub  tablespoon  butter  with  two  (heaping)  of  flour, 
smoothly  in  saucepan  over  the  fire,  add  pinch  salt,  pint  cream,  or 
pint  cream  and  milk,  and  stir  till  thick  as  mush,  add  two  teaspoons 
sugar,  and  tablespoon  grated  almonds  or  cocoa-nut ; remove  from 
stove  and  add  beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs.  After  dishing  bouillon 
place  a spoonful  or  two  in  each  cup ; or  a slice  of  lemon  or  yolk  of  a 
hard-boiled  egg  and  serve.  Or  sago,  tapioca,  macaroni,  or  vermi- 
celli may  be  added,  cooking  them  first,  or  a poached  egg  to  each 
cup.  Some  like  the  addition  of  a few  cooked  tomatoes,  which  give 
a delicious  flavor.  Bouillon  will  keep  for  several  days  in  cool 
weather,  so  one  can  vary  the  soup  each  day. 


SOUPS. 


831 


Bread  Soup. — Boil  pound  bread-crusts  in  quart  stock,  adding 
tablespoon  butter;  when  it  softens  beat  all  together  with  a spoon  till 
well  mixed,  season  to  taste  with  pepper,  salt  and  a very  little  of  any 
spice  preferred,  and  serve. 

Cabbage  Soup. — Shave  a head  cabbage  fine,  boil  till  tender  in 
water  needed  for  soup,  add  tablespoon  sugar,  salt  and  pepper  to 
taste ; drop  in  dumplings,  made  as  for  pot  pie,  and  when  ready  to 
serve,  add  butter  and  sweet  cream  to  taste.  Serve  hot. 

Carrot  Soup. — Put  in  soup  kettle  a knuckle  of  veal,  three  or 
four  quarts  cold  water,  quart  finely-sliced  carrots,  one  head  celery, 
or  teaspoon  celery  seed;  boil  two  and  a half  hours,  add  handful 
rice,  and  boil  an  hour  longer ; season  with  pepper  ( or  a bit  of  red 
pepper  pod)  and  salt,  and  serve.  If  veal  is  not  at  hand  boil  a beef 
bone,  or  any  good  stock  may  be  used ; some  omit  rice  and  celery 
and  add  two.  onions  and  a turnip  sliced,  and  when  tender  pulp 
through  a sieve.  May  be  made  day  before  wanted,  and  is  said  to  be 
all  the  better.  To  make  of  carrots  alone,  put  in  about  two  pounds 
sliced  carrots  in  stewpan  with  three  tablespoons  butter  and  place 
where  they  will  stew  gently  an  hour  without  browning.  Then  pour 
over  them  two  quarts  stock  and  simmer  another  hour,  or  till  tender ; 
rub  through  sieve,  add  salt  and  cayenne  to  taste,  return  to  fire  and 
boil  five  minutes,  skim  well  and  serve. 

Caulidower  Soup. — Boil  the  cauliflower,  picked  in  small  pieces, 
in  salted  water  about  half  an  hour ; wash  half  of  it,  and  put  that 
in  three  pints  White  Stock  or  the  clear  broth  from  cooking  an  old 
chicken,  in  either  of  Avhich  a tablespoon  of  minced  onion  has  been 
cooked  fifteen  minutes;  add  pint  of  boiled  rich  milk,  season  with 
white  pepper,  and  a blade  of  mace,  add  a little  thickening  if  neces- 
sary ; then  add  tablespoon  butter  and  the  whole  pieces  of  cauli- 
flower with  a tablespoon  minced  parsiey.  Boil  up  once  and  serve. 
About  a cup  of  cauliflower  is  needed  and  that  left  from  a meal  may 
be  used.  Some  add  a speck  of  cayenne. 

Celery  Soup. — Wash  and  scrape  a head  of  celery  well,  cut  into 
small  pieces,  put  in  pint  boiling  salted  water  and  cook  till  very 
soft ; chop  an  onion,  boil  in  quart  milk  ten  minutes  and  add  all  to 
celery ; rub  through  sieve,  boil  again,  add  tablespoon  each  butter 
and  flour  that  have  been  stirred  together  over  fire,  and  stir  until 
smooth  and  well  cooked ; add  pepper  and  salt  to  taste  and  serve, 
straining  again  if  not  perfectly  smooth.  Or  cut  nice  stalks  celery 
fine  and  boil  in  water  seasoned  with  salt,  nutmeg  and  sugar  to  taste 
till  tender,  rub  through  sieve,  put  pulp  in  half  pint  strong  stock, 
simmer  half  an  hour,  add  pint  cream,  bring  to  boiling  point  and 
serve.  If  a brown  soup  is  wanted  omit  cream  and  use  all  stock, 
adding  a little  Caramel  Coloring.  Or  put  half  pint  cold  cooked  rice 
into  two  quarts  boiling  milk  in  custard  kettle  with  head  of  celery 


832 


SOUPS. 


cut  very  fine,  and  stew  till  celery  is  tender.  Season  to  taste  with 
butter,  salt,  white  pepper  and  a little  mace  if  liked.  Pour  over  two 
well-beaten  eggs  in  tureen  and  scatter  crisp  bread  dice  over  top. 
For  Celery  Cream  Soup^  boil  small  cup  rice  in  three  pints  milk, 
until  it  will  pass  through  sieve.  Grate  white  part  of  two  heads  celery 
(three  if  small)  on  bread-grater;  add  this  to  the  rice  milk  after  it 
has  been  strained,  also  quart  strong  white  stock  ; boil  until  celery  is 
perfectly  tender,  season  with  salt,  white  pepper  and  a very  little 
grated  nutmeg,  and  serve.  If  cream  is  obtainable,  substitute  one 
pint  for  same  quantity  of  milk.  The  soup  should  be  of  a nice 
creamy  consistency,  neither  too  thick  nor  too  thin.  When  fresh 
celery  cannot  be  had,  a little  of  the  seed,  finely  pounded,  or  the 
essence  will  flavor  soup  nicely. 

Chestnut  Soup. — Blanch  a quart  shelled  chestnuts,  boil  in 
plenty  of  water  till  tender  and  rub  through  fine  sieve,  with  potato 
masher.  Mix  smooth  a tablespoon  each  flour  and  butter  in  sauce- 
pan over  fire  and  add  gradually  a quart  milk ; when  scalding  hot, 
season  with  saltspoon  salt,  pinch  pepper  and  nutmeg,  add  chestnut 
pulp,  boil  up  once  and  serve.  For  a richer  soup  boil  chestnuts 
in  stock,  and  use  the  whole  or  a part  of  stock  for  the  soup,  adding 
gill  cream  to  each  quart. 

Chicken  Soup. — In  boiling  chickens  for  salads,  etc.,  the  broth 
(water  in  which  they  are  boiled)  may  be  used  for  soup.  When  the 
chickens  are  to  be  served  whole,  stuff  and  tie  in  a cloth.  To  the 
broth  add  a dozen  tomatoes  (or  a quart  can),  and  one  thinly-sliced 
onion  ; boil  twenty  minutes,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  add  two 
well-beaten  eggs,  and  serve.  Or,  for  Southern  Chicken  Soup.,  cut 
meat  of  one  chicken  into  small  pieces,  except  the  breast,  and  break 
the  bones.  Place  bones  and  meat  in  kettle  with  breast  on  top  and 
cover  with  cold  water,  cook  three  or  four  hours,  skimming  well,  and. 
remove  the  breast  as  soon  as  tender  ; strain  and  to  three  pints  stock 
add  three  tablespoons  cooked  rice,  the  breast  cut  in  dice,  tablespoon 
minced  parsley,  and  salt  and  white  pepper  to  taste.  Cook  fifteen 
minutes  and  serve.  Some  cook  a half  pound  or  so  of  round  steak, 
cut  in  dice,  with  chicken  and  bones ; or  add  three  carrots  cut  up, 
pint  of  tomatoes,  teacup  of  lima  beans,  and  salt  to  taste  and  pinch 
cayenne  pepper,  and  simmer  four  hours.  An  hour  before  serving 
add  pint  rich  milk ; add  thickening  if  needed  and  serve.  An  old 
chicken  is  best  as  it  gives  a richer,  liner  flavor. 

CLAM  SOUP. 

First  catch  your  clams— along  the  ebbing  edges 
Of  saline  coves  you’ll  find  the  precious  wedges, 

Witn  backs  up,  lurking  in  the  sandy  bottom; 

Pull  in  your  iron  rake,  and  lo!  you’ve  got  ’em! 

Take  thirty  large  ones,  put  a basin  under, 

And  cleave,  with  knife,  their  stony  jaws  asunder: 


SOUPS. 


833 


Add  water  (three  quarts)  to  the  native  liquor, 

Bring  to  a boil,  (and,  by  the  way,  the  quicker 
It  boils  the  better,  if  you’d  do  it  cutely. ) 

Now  add  the  clams,  chopped  up  and  minced  minutely. 

Allow  a longer  boil  of  just  three  minutes, 

And  while  it  bubbles,  quickly  stir  within  its 
Tumultuous  depths  where  still  the  mollusks  mutter, 

Four  table-spoons  of  flour  and  four  of  butter, 

A pint  of  milk,  some  pepper  to  your  notion, 

And  clams  need  salting,  although  born  of  ocean. 

Remove  from  fire:  (if  much  boiled  they  will  suffer— 

Yon  11  find  that  India-rubber  is  n’t  tougher.) 

After  ’tis  off",  add  three  fresh  eggs,  well  beaten, 

Stir  once  more,  and  it’s  ready  to  be  eaten. 

Fruit  of  the  wave!  O dainty  and  delicious! 

Food  for  the  gods!  Ambrosia  for  Apicius! 

Worthy  to  thrill  the  soul  of  sea-born  Venus, 

Or  titillate  the  palate  of  Silenus.  — W.  A.  Croffttt. 

Clam  Soup. — Wash  clams,  and  place  in  just  sufficient  water  for 
soup,  let  boil,  and  as  soon  as_  they  clear  from  shells,  take  out  and 
place  clams  in  a jar  for  pickling ; throw  into  the  broth  a pint  each 
of  sweet  milk  and  rolled  crackers,  add  a little  salt,  boil  five  minutes, 
and  just  before  taking  from  fire,  add  tablespoon  butter  beaten  with 
two  eggs  and  serve,  letting  each  person  season  to  taste. 

Cocoa-nut  Soup. — Simmer  six  ounces  grated  cocoa-nut  one 
hour  in  two  quarts  veal  stock  keeping  closely  covered ; strain  care- 
fully, add  gill  hot  cream,  seasoning  of  salt,  white  pepper,  and  a little 
mace  if  liked,  and  thicken  with  three  scant  tablespoons  rice  flour, 
stirred  smooth  in  little  cold  milk  ; boil  one  minute  and  serve.  Wheat 
flour  may  be  used  if  rice  flour  is  not  at  hand. 

Corn  Soup. — One  large  fowl,  or  four  pounds  veal  (knuckle  or 
neck  will  do),  put  over  fire  in  gallon  cold  water  with  a little  salt, 
skim  well,  cover  tightly  and  simmer  slowly  till  meat  slips  from 
bones,  not  allowing  it  to  boil  to  rags,  as  it  will  make  a nice  dish  for 
breakfast  or  lunch,  or  even  for  dinner.  Set  aside  with  meat  a cup 
of  the  liquor ; strain  soup  to  remove  all  bones  and  rags  of  meat ; 
grate  dozen  ears  green  corn,  scraping  cobs  to  remove  the  heart  of 
the  kernel,  add  corn  to  soup,  with  salt,  pepper,  and  a little  parsley, 
and  simmer  slowly  half  an  hour.  Just  before  serving  add  a table- 
spoon flour  beaten  very  thoroughly  with  a tablespoon  butter.  Serve 
hot.  To  serve  chicken  or  veal,  put  broth  (which  was  reserved)  in  a 
clean  saucepan,  beat  one  egg,  tablespoon  butter  and  teaspoon  flour 
together  very  thoroughly,  and  add  to  it  with  salt,  pepper,  and  a lit- 
tle chopped  parsley.  Arrange  meat  on  dish,  pour  over  the  gravy 
boiling  hot,  and  serve  at  once.  Or  for  Hasty  Corn  Soup,  cook  to- 
gether three  pints  White  Stock  and  pint  grated  sweet  corn  twent}'’ 
minutes,  then  add  pint  each  cream  and  milk  with  tablespoon  butter, 
little  minced  parsley,  and  a smooth  thickening  of  flour  and  water  if 
53 


834 


SOUPS. 


needed.  Season  to  taste  and  serve.  Or  for  Meatless  Corn  Soupy 
grate  twelve  ears  sweet  corn,  and  put  cobs  into  kettle  with  cold 
water  enough  to  cover,  and  boil  one  hour ; then  skim  out  cobs  and 
add  grated  corn,  with  teacup  boiling  water,  and  boil  half  an  hour. 
x\dd  quart  of  milk,  or  part  cream  and  milk,  salt  and  pepper,  and 
boil  for  ten  minutes.  Put  in  piece  of  butter  size  of  an  egg,  set  ket- 
tle on  back  of  stove  and  add  three  well-beaten  eggs,  stir  rapidly  for 
five  minutes,  and  serve  immediately  with  croutons,  or  with  crackers. 
Some  add  Buckeye  Dumplings,  boil  fifteen  minutes  and  serve.  For 
Cor7i  ChowdeVy  cut  half  a pound  of  pork  in  slices,  and  fry  brown, 
then  take  up,  and  fry  two  medium-sized  onions  in  the  fat.  Put 
quart  sliced  potatoes  and  three  pints  grated  or  cut  corn  into  kettle 
in  layers,  sprinkling  each  layer  with  salt,  pepper  and  flour,  using 
saltspoon  pepper,  two  tablespoons  salt  and  live  of  flour.  Strain 
onions  and  fat  over  vegetables,  and  with  a spoon  press  the  juice 
through  strainer ; then  slowly  pour  three  pints  boiling  water  through 
strainer,  rubbing  as  much  onion  through  as  possible.  Cover  kettle, 
and  boil  gently  half  an  hour.  Mix  two  tablespoons  of  corn-starch 
with  a little  milk,  and  when  perfectly  smooth,  add  quart  rich  milk. 
Stir  this  into  the  boiling  chowder.  Taste  to  see  if  seasoned  enough, 
and  if  not,  add  more  pepper  and  salt.  Then  add  half  dozen  crack- 
ers, split,  buttered  and  dipped  for  a minute  in  cold  water.  Put  on 
cover,  boil  up  once,  and  serve. 

Cream  Soup. — Stir  over  the  fire  two  tablespoons  butter  and 
three  of  flour  in  saucepan  till  smooth,  add  boiled  milk,  a half  cup  at 
a time,  till  three  pints  have  been  used,  half  milk  and  water  may  be 
used,  or  for  a richer  soup,  use  half  cream  aiid  milk ; season  with 
white  pepper,  salt,  and  pinch  nutmeg.  Serve  Avith  croutons  added 
a moment  before  dishing.  For  Cream  of  Beets  add  a puree  of  beets 
made  by  rubbing  well-cooked  beets  through  a fine  sieve  with  a po- 
tato masher.  Cream  of  Spinacliy  Asparagus,  Celery y Peasey  etc., 
are  made  in  same  Avay.  The  quantity  of  pulp  can  be  varied  to  suit 
the  taste.  For  Cream  of  SalmoUyYvAy  through  puree  sieA^e  three- 
quarters  of  a pint  boiled  Salmon,  canned  maybe  used  without  cook- 
ing, and  add  as  above. 

Cucumber  Soup. — Pare  one  large  cucumber,  quarter  and  take 
out  seeds  ; cut  it  in  thin  slices,  put  them  on  plate  Avith  little  salt,  to 
draw  water  from  them ; drain,  and  put  in  saucepan,  Avith  butter. 
When  Avarmed  through,  without  being  broAvned,  pour  quart  stock 
on  them.  Add  a little  sorrel,  chervil,  and  seasoning,  and  boil  forty 
minutes.  Mix  well-beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs  Avith  gill  cream,  which 
add  just  before  serving. 

Flemish  Soup. — Slice  five  onions,  ten  stalks  celery,  and  ten 
medium-sized  potatoes,  and  put  them  Avith  three  tablespoons  butter 
and  half  pint  water  in  gtewpan,  and  simmer  for  an  hour.  Then  add 


wSOUPS. 


835 


two  quarts  Plain  Stock  and  cook  gently  till  potatoes  are  done.  Rub 
all  through  a sieve,  add  half  pint  boiled  cream  and  serve  at  once. 

Fruit  Soup. — This  soup  is  a general  favorite  and  as  it  is  so  very 
easily  made  one  'with  little  experience  can  attempt  it.  There  are 
two  divisions  the  clear  and  the  thick,  the  latter  being  made  ])y  using 
the  pulp  of  the  fruit.  Take  any  fresh  fruit,  pie-plant,  strawberries, 
gooseberries,  currants,  cherries,  wild  plums,  raspberries,  etc.,  and 
add  water  and  cook  till  all  juice  is  extracted  ; for  a clear  soup,  strain 
and  take  amount  of  juice  wished,  adding  more  water,  if  necessary, 
till  a pleasant  flavor,  boil,  skim,  and  to  three  pints  liquid  add  table- 
spoon corn-starch  mixed  smooth  with  a little  water,  sweeten  to  taste, 
boil  a moment  and  serve  cold  in  summer,  with  a lump  of  ice  and 
tablespoon  sweetened  whipped  cream  in  each  dish,  or  bouillon  cup, 
and  hot  in  winter,  omitting  cream.  Part  currants  and  raspberries 
may  be  used  together,  or  any  harmonious  combination  of  fruit  or 
the  juices;  as  canned  juice  can  be  used  and  any  of  the  Shrubs  are 
especially  delicious.  For  Raspberry  Soup,  add  water  to  Raspberry 
Shrub  till  of  a pleasant  flavor,  then  finish  as  above  without  sweet- 
ening. The  vinegar  already  used  in  the  shrub  imparts  just  enough 
of  the  acid  flavor  wished.  When  using  any  fi;esh  fruit  or  canned 
juice,  a little  lemon  or  currant  juice  may  be  added  to  the  sweeter 
fruits,  adding  the  lemon  just  before  removing  soup  from  fire,  and  a 
little  orange  juice  to  Strawberry  Soup  made  as  above  gives  a richer 
flavor.  A very  elaborate  recipe  is  to  pick  and  wash  two  quarts 
strawberries  and  rub,  without  cooking,  through  a puree  sieve  add- 
ing water  to  the  pulp  till  consistency  of  cream,  sweeten  to  taste  and 
add  gill  orange,  and  third  of  a gill  lemon  juice.  When  cold,  ice  and 
serve  with  a few  whole  berries,  which  have  been  standing  in  sugar 
an  hour  or  two,  and  a spoonful  of  whipped  cream  in  each  dish. 
For  Cherry  Soup,  cook  cherries  in  water,  sweeten  to  taste,  flavor 
with  teaspoon  vanilla  and  serve  hot,  without  straining  if  wished. 
A richer  soup  is  made  by  stoning  half  peck  cherries,  boil  till  soft  in 
water  with  a stick  cinnamon  and  sugar  ; add  water  till  of  a pleasant 
flavor,  rub  through  a puree  sieve,  reserving  a few  of  them  whole ; 
crack  half  the  stones,  take  out  kernels,  boil  them,  adding  litle  sugar, 
rub  through  sieve  or  pound  to  a paste  and  add  to  soup  and  flavor 
as  in  second  recipe  of  Strawberry  Soup.  Let  cool  and  serve  iced 
with  some  of  the  reserved  whole  cherries  in  each  dish.  IMake 
Apricot  Soup  in  same  way  cutting  half  of  apricots  in  slices,  sprink- 
ling with  sugar  and  letting  stand  -while  the  other  half  is  cooking. 
Add  apricot  kernel  paste  as  above,  flavoring  with  pineapple  juice, 
add  reserved  slices  and  serve  iced.  Blackberry  Soup  is  made  as 
Raspberry,  and  one  can  always  make  a delicious  soup  from  any 
fruit,  juice  or  shrub  at  command  and  should  not  fail  to  try  it,  as  it 
makes  such  a refreshing  first  course  at  dinner  in  summer ; or  is 
delicious  served  a la  bouillon  for  luncheon  or  an  evening  company. 
Croutons  are  nice  added  to  fruit  soups  just  before  serving  if  to  be 


836 


SOUPS. 


eaten  hot ; or  when  iced  accompany  with  a dish  of  Dry  Toast  made 
as  on  page  59,  or  slices  of  bread,  sprinkled  with  sugar  and  glazed  in 
oven  or  fried  in  butter. 


Julienne  Soup. — Cut  carrots,  turnips,  parsnips,  celery,  string 
beans,  etc.,  into  strips  as  illustrated,  about  one  and  a quarter  inches 
long  having  them  all  of  same  size ; take  a 
gill  or  so  of  each,  fry  the  carrot  pieces  in  but- 
ter and  pour  three  quarts  boiling  stock  over 
them,  add  the  rest  of  vegetables  with  some 
lettuce  and  sorrel  cut  in  larger  pieces^  a bay 
leaf  and  a small  onion,  and  simmer  gently 
an  hour  or  until  vegetables  are  tender.  Pour 
the  soup  over  some  Croutons  ])laced  in  tu-  strips  of  vegetables, 

roen  and  serve  hot.  Some  do  not  fry  the  carrots  but  add  all  to  the 
stock,  or  water  may  be  used  instead  of  stock.  If  all  vegetables  are 
not  obtainable  any  three  of  them  maj^  be  used,  but  the  sorrel  is  con- 
sidered indispensable  b}"  epicures. 


Lemon  Soup. — Heat  three  pints  Bouillon  or  any  clear  stock 
and  pour  it  upon  a well-beaten  egg  placed  in  tureen;  add  juice  of 
large  lemon,  half  pint  Croutons  and  serve  at  once. 

Lobster  Soup. — Pick  meat  from  one  lobster  or  two  small  ones, 
and  beat  fins,  chine,  and  small  claws  in  a mortar,  previously  taking 
away  brown  fin  and  bag  in  head.  Put  in  a stewpan,  with  bread- 
crumbs, anchovy,  half  an  onion,  small  bunch  herbs,  strip  lemon 
peel,  and  two  quarts  water ; simmer  gently  till  all  goodness  is  ex- 
tracted, and  strain.  Pound  the  spawn  in  a mortar,  with  tablespoon 
butter,  little  nutmeg,  and  half  teaspoon  flour,  adding  third  of  a pint 
each  cream  and  milk  and  put  in  stewpan  with  the  tails  cut  in  pieces. 
Make  Forcemeat  Balls  with  tlie  remainder  of  the  lobster,  seasoned 
with  mace,  pepper,  and  salt,  adding  a little  flour,  and  a few  bread- 
crumbs ; moisten  them  with  egg,  heat  them  in  soup  and  serve.  For 
a Flain  Lobster  Soup  omit  onions,  anchovy  and  lemon  peel. 

Milk  Soup. — Brown  lightly  a thinly-sliced  onion  in  butter  in  a 
very  hot  frying-pan,  add  tablespoon  flour  and  when  brown  add 
slowly  pint  boiling  water.  Cook  briskly  a few  moments,  place  on 
back  of  stove  and  simmer  two  hours,  add  gill  boiling  water,  a little 
salt  and  sugar  and  a pint  of  boiled  new  milk,  boil  up  once  and  serve. 
Or  With  Eggs.,  boil  two  quarts  milk  with  saltspoon  salt,  teaspoon 
powdered  cinnamon,  and  three  of  sugar ; place  four  thin  slices  of 
bread  in  a deep  dish,  pour  over  it  a little  of  the  milk,  and  keep  it 
hot  over  a stove,  without  burning.  Beat  up  the  yolks  of  six  eggs, 
add  them  to  milk,  and  stir  it  over  fire  till  it  thickens  ; do  not  let  it 
curdle  ; pour  upon  the  bread,  and  serve.  Nice  for  children.  Bread 
may  be  toasted,  if  wished. 


SOUPS. 


837 


Mock  Turtle  or  CalTs-head  Soup. — Lay  one  large  calf’s  head 
well  cleaned  and  washed,  and  four  pig’s  feet,  in  bottom  of  a large 
kettle,  and  cover  with  a gallon  water ; boil  three  hours,  or  until 
flesh  will  slip  from  bones ; take  out  head,  leaving  feet  to  be  boiled 
steadily  while  meat  is  cut  from  head ; select  with  care  enough  of 
the  fatty  portions  in  top  of  head  and  cheeks  to  fill  a teacup,  and  set 
aside  to  cool ; remove  brains  to  saucer,  and  also  set  aside ; chop 
rest  of  meat  with  tongue  very  fine,  season  with  salt,  pepper,  pow- 
dered majoram  and  thyme,  a teaspoon  of  cloves,  one  of  mace,  half 
as  much  allspice  and  grated  nutmeg.  When  flesh  falls  from  bones 
of  feet,  take  out  bones,  leaving  the  gelatinous  meat ; boil  all  together 
slowly,  without  removing  cover,  for  two  hours  more ; take  soup 
from  fire  and  set  away  until  next  day.  Skim  off*  fat  an  hour  before 
dinner  and  set  stock  over  fire,  and  when  it  boils  strain  carefully  and 
drop  in  reserved  meat,  which  should  have  been  cut  when  cold,  into 
small  squares.  Have  these  all  ready  as  well  as  Force-meat  Balls., 
to  prepare  which  rub  the  yolks  of  five  hard-boiled  eggs  to  a paste  in 
a mortar,  or  in  a bowl  with  back  of  silver  spoon,  adding  gradually 
the  brains  to  moisten  them,  also  a little  butter  and  salt.  Mix  with 
these,  two  eggs  beaten  very  light,  flour  hands  and  make  this  paste 
into  balls  about  size  of  a pigeon’s  egg;  throw  them  into  soup  five 
minutes  before  taking  from  fire ; stir  in  large  tablespoon  browned 
flour  rubbed  smooth  in  a little  cold  water,  and  finish  the  seasoning 
by  addition  of  four  tablespoons  sherry  or  Maderia  wine,  and  juice  of 
a lemon.  It  should  not  boil  more  than  half  an  hour  on  second  day. 
Serve  with  sliced  lemons.  Some  use  only  the  head  with  seven 
quarts  water  and  serve  brain,  tongue,  etc.,  for  separate  dishes,  ah 
though  the  tongue  can  be  first  cooked  with  it.  A finer  flavor  is 
given  when  cooking  head  first  time  to  add  piece  fried  ham  and  a 
carrot,  turnip  and  onion  stuck  with  eight  cloves,  and  a bunch  sweet 
herbs  as  given  in  Bouillon  with  strips  of  rind  of  half  a lemon.  When 
to  be  reheated  put  tablespoon  butter  and  two  of  flour  in  saucepan, 
when  a light  brown  add  pint  and  a half  of  the  stock  with  half  a bay 
leaf,  a tuft  of  celery  leaves,  three  or  four  sprigs  parsley,  a blade  of 
mace,  and  some  add  a few  chives.  Cook  forty  minutes,  strain  and 
add  to  rest  of  stock,  with  some  of  meat  from  head  cut  in  dice ; let 
boil  up  once  and  pour  in  tureen,  in  which  is  the  juice  of  half  a 
lemon,  with  slices  of  the  other  half  and  chopped  yolks  of  three  hard- 
boiled  eggs.  We  do  not  think  the  wine  as  in  first  recipe  is  essential. 
Some  add  a knuckle  of  veal  and  for  a plain  soup  to  be  served  at 
once,  simply  boil  with  an  onion  and  any  sweet  herbs  at  hand  about 
four  hours ; then  strain  and  chop  meat  from  head  in  dice  and  re- 
turn to  soup,  season  with  a little  celery  seed  and  either  pour  it  over 
the  chopped  yolks  of  eggs  and  lemon  slices  ; or  fifteen  minutes  be- 
fore serving,  add,  pouring  it  through  the  holes  of  a colander  a thin 
batter  of  an  egg,  cup  of  milk  and  flour  as  needed,  and  then  pour 
soup  over  the  slices  of  a lemon. 


838 


SOUPS. 


Mutton  Soup. — Boil  a four  or  five  '‘pound  leg  of  mutton  two 
hours ; ta'ke  out  and  place  in  oven  to  brown  an  hour,  basting  it 
often.  To  the  broth  add  onion  and  potato  chopped  fine,  half  a cup 
of  barley,  soaked  overnight  in  two  cups  water,  and  two  large  toma- 
toes ; season  with  pepper  and  salt,  boil  one  hour,  stir  often  (as  bar- 
ley is  apt  to  burn),  and,  before  taking  from  the  fire,  add  tablespoon 
flour  wet  with  cold  v/ater  if  needed.  Or  take  three  or  four  pounds 
neck  of  mutton,  cut  up  the  meat,  break  the  bones  and  put  ail  in 
kettle  with  three  quarts  water.  Let  boil,  skim,  then  simmer  till  a 
clear  well-flavored  broth ; add  barley  and  vegetables  as  above,  or 
barley,  carrots,  turnips,  etc.,  may  be  used  with  bunch  of  herbs. 

Noodle  Soup. — Add  noodles  to  beef  or  any  other  soup  after  strain- 
ing ; they  will  cook  in  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes,  and  are  prepared 
in  the  following  manner  : To  one  egg  add  as  much  sifted  flour  as  it 
will  absorb  with  a little  salt ; work  it  in  with  the  fingers  ten  or  fif- 
teen minutes,  mixing  it  as  stiff  as  possible  ; roll  to  a very  thin  sheet, 
fold  and  roll  as  thin  as  a wafer,  dust  lightly  with  flour  and  roll  up 
tightly  as  a Jelly  Roll ; slice  from  the  ends  with  a thin  sharp  knife, 
shake*^  out  the  strips  loosely,  let  dry  an  hour  or  two  and  drop  ink> 
soup  and  cook  ten  minutes.  Some  add  two  teaspoons  water. 

Okra  Soup. — Take  a nice  joint  of  beef  filled  with  marrow,  gal- 
lon water,  onion  cut  fine,  two  sprigs  parsley,  two  quarts  okra,  one 
quart  tomatoes  ; boil  meat  six  hours,  add  vegetables  and  boil  two 
hours  more.  Or  brown  an  onion  with  a slice  of  bacon  or  ham,  then 
add  vegetables  as  above,  or  two  quarts  tomato  and  one  of  okra, 
three  quarts  water  and  cook  slowly  two  or  three  hours,  seasoning 
to  taste.  Or  for  Southern  Gumbo^  prepare  vegetables  as  in  second 
recipe,  adding  a bay  leaf  and  blade  of  mace,  then  cut  up  and  fry 
brown  a squirrel,  chicken  or  piece  of  veal,  add  and  cook  till  tender, 
seasoning  with  pepper,  salt  and  a pinch  cayenne.  Take  out  meat 
and  serve  separately.  Some  always  add  a ham  bone  and  a little 
grated  or  cut  corn,  and  Lima  beans  are  considered  an  improvement, 
and  just  before  serving  add  four  or  five  tablespoons  boiled  rice  and 
instead  of  cayenne,  tablespoon  or  two  of  green  pepper  chopped  fine. 
Boil  up  once  and  serve. 

Onion.'  Soup. — Slice  thin  five  or  six’ medium-sized  onions  and 
fry  brown  in  tablespoon  butter,  add  two  or  three  tablespoons  flour,  or 
rice- flour  makes  it  more  delicate,  and  when  latter  is  browned  add 
slowly  pint  and  a half  boiling  water,  and  a bunch  of  sweet  herbs  as 
given  in  Bouillon;  let  boil  up  and  then  place  on  back  of  stove  and 
simmer  slowly  an  hour  and  a half.  Then  add  three  pints  boiling 
milk  or  part  cream,  and  four  tablespoons  m^sliud  potato,  mixed 
with  a little  milk  or  cream  till  smooth  and  rather  thin.  Let  boil 
few  minutes.  Season  to  taste,  adding  teaspoon  sugar  and  half  pint 
cf  Croutons  and  serve  hot.  If  wished  richer  use  stock  instead  of 


SOUPS. 


839 


water  and  a little  chopped  celery  added  gives  a delicious  davor. 
Boiled  rice  may  be  added  instead  of  potato  and  it  maj^  be  served 
without  either,  adding  half  cup  soaked  barley  with  stock  or  water. 

Ox  Tail  Soup. — Saw  the  tail  in  thin  round  slices,  cook  slowly 
two  hours  in  hot  water,  skim  out  slices  and  add  to  three  quarts 
Plain  Bouillon.  In  the  meantime  have  carrots,  turnips,  onion  etc., 
ciP  with  a round  cutter,  as  an  apple  corer,  into  lozenge  shape  pieces, 
abmit  a pint  in  all,  and  cook  them  half  an  hour  in  a little  water,  add 
to  soup.  Add  brown  butter  and  flour  thickening  in  small  quantity, 
let  soup  simmer  slowly  until  it  becomes  smooth  and  clear  again, 
and  skim  until  all  fat  is  removed.  Season  with  salt  and  cayenne. 
Serve  a slice  or  two  of  ox  tail  and  some  of  the  vegetables  in  each 
plate.  When  a soup  like  the  foregoing  has  not  a clear  syrup-like 
sort  of  thickness  or  body,  but  is  dull,  like  flour  gravy  it  may  be 
cleared  by  longer  simmering  and  adding  more  stock  with  some 
cold  tomato  juice,  or  lemon  juice,  or  even  cold  ^yater,  and  skimming 
from  the  side.  If  not  already  light  brown  add  a spoonful  of  Cara- 
mel. Some  do  not  use  the  extra  stock  but  separate  ox  tail  at  the 
joints,  or  cut  in  thin  slices,  and  place  in  a gallon  cold  water  with 
two  slices  ham  and  any  vegetables  wished,  cut  in  thin  slices.  Sim- 
mer three  or  four  hours  till  meat  is  tender,  strain  and  serve  with 
pieces  of  the  ox  tail  in  each  dish. 

Oyster  Soup. — Put  one  quart  stock.  White  Stock  is  nicest,  in 
kettle,  or  water  may  be  used  ; add  oyster  liquor  from  quart  of  oys- 
ters, having  drained  latter  in  colander,  pouring  over  them  a half 
pint  of  the  hot  stock  ; skim  if  necessary,  put  in  oysters,  let  just  come 
to  a boil,  set  on  back  of  range,  stir  in  half  cup  crushed  oyster  crack- 
ers, three  tablespoons  butter,  salt  and  white  pepper  to  taste,  and 
then  quart  milk,  which  has  been  boiled  in  custard  kettle ; or  the 
milk  may  be  placed  in  tureen  and  the  soup  poured  over.  Some 
sprinkle  a little  minced  parsley  over  just  before  serving.  If  wished 
very  nice,  the  oysters  may  be  first  scalded  in  their  liquor,  taken  out 
and  bearded  and  placed  in  tureen.  To  a pint  of  stock,  add  the 
beards  and  strained  liquor  and  simmer  half  an  hour ; strain,  add 
three  pints  of  stock,  let  come  to  boiling  point,  season  as  above,  add 
half  pint  boiling  cream,  pour  over  oysters  and  serve  at  once.  By 
cooking  the  beards  a stronger  flavor  is  procured  and  the  oysters  are 
more  delicate  without  them.  For  Mock  Oyster  Soup,  take  one 
teacup  codfish,  cut  in  half-inch  squares.  Freshen  by  covering  with 
cold  water,  let  it  come  to  a boil,  then  pour  off  and  add  cup  water, 
quart  sweet  milk,  cup  sweet  cream,  tablespoon  corn-starch,  stirred 
smooth  in  a little,  cold  milk,  lump  of  butter  size  of  an  egg,  pepper, 
and  salt  to  taste.  Serve  with  crackers  or  toast. 

Parsnip  Soup. — Brown  three  or  four  sliced  parsnips  in  sauce- 
pan with  tablespoon  or  two  of  butter,  cooking  them  slowly,  adding 


840 


SOUPS. 


a gill  stock  and  when  they  are  tender  add  three  gills  more  and  cook 
half  an  hour;  rub  through  puree  sieve  and  add  quart  stock,  let  boil 
up  once  and  serve. 

Pea  Soup. — Boil  three  pints  shelled  green  pease  in  three  quarts 
water ; when  quite  soft,  mash  through  colander,  adding  a little  water 
to  free  the  pulp  from  skins ; return  pulp  to  water  in  which  it  was 
boiled,  add  head  of  lettuce  chopped,  and  half  a pint  young  pease ; 
boil  half  an  hour,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  thicken  with 
two  tablespoons  butter  rubbed  into  a little  flour.  Serve  with  bits  of 
toasted  bread.  The  soup,  when  done,  should  be  as  thick  as  cream. 
Some  omit  the  lettuce.  Or  cook  pint  of  pease  till  tender  in  two 
quarts  boiling  water,  add  two  tablespoons  butter,  salt,  white  pepper 
and  half  pint  cream  or  rich  milk,  tablespoo'n  minced  parsley  and 
teaspoon  sugar  with  a little  thickening  of  corn-starch.  Place  on 
back  of  stove  and  add  beaten  yolks  of  one  or  two  eggs  and  serve. 
With  Carrots,  add  with  the  pease,  half  pint  carrots  cut  in  thin 
slices,  as  for  Julienne  Soup,  and  a pint  more  water  and  finish  as 
above.  With  Spinach,  add  to  pease  one  pint  spinach  prepared  as 
for  cooking ; or  for  a Triple  Soup,  use  all  three  vegetables  with 
three  quarts  water  and  finish  as  above.  To  make  richer  use  Plain 
Bouillon  instead  of  the  water.  With  Onions,  boil  pint  shelled 
pease  tender,  with  a bunch  part^iey  and  two  young  onions  in  a very 
little  water ; rub  through  sieve  and  add  two  quarts  any  stock  ; let  it 
come  just  to  boiling  point  and  serve,  as  if  boiled  after  the  puree  is 
added  it  is  not  of  as  fine  color.  For  a Hasty  Soup  use  cold  cooked 
nease  in  same  way.  For  Split  Pea  Soup,  cut  three-quarters  pound 
of  any  kind  of  meat,  odd  pieces  will  do,  in  dice,  always  adding  a 
little  "ham;  put  in  a gallon  bean-pot  with  an  onion,  carrot,  table- 
spoon rice  and  three  gills  split  pease  ; fill  with  cold  water,  put  on 
cover  and  bake  in  oven  three  hours  and  a half.  Or  soak  a cup  split 
pease  four  or  five  hours,  drain  and  add  them  to  three  quarts  stock  ; 
when  boiling  add  some  chopped  carrot,  celery  and  onion,  with  bunch 
of  herbs  if  wished,  and  cook  an  hour.  Th«  pease  should  partly  boil 
away  and  thicken  soup,  while  some  of  them  still  remain  distinct ; 
when  ‘this  is  not  satisfactorily  accomplished,  add  a spoonful  of  flour 
thickening.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  take  out  bunch  of  herbs, 
add  a small  lump  of  butter  and  serve.  Puree  of  pea  soup  can  be 
made  as  directed  for  puree  of  beans.  It  is  an  English  custom  to 
dry  mint  and  crumble  it  over  the  top  of  pea  soup.  Bean  Soup  can 
be  made  in  same  way. 

Pheasant  Soup. — Cut  up  two  pheasants  and  brown  them  with 
four  tablespoons  butter  and  two  slices  of  ham;  put  in  soup  kettle 
with  two  large  onions  sliced,  half  head  celery  and  three  quarts  of 
Plain  Stock  and  simmer  two  hours.  Strain,  pound  the  breasts  wdth 
the  crumbs  of  twm  rolls,  previously  soaked,  and  hard-boiled  yolks  of 
two  eggs  ; add  to  the  soup,  let  boil  up  once  and  serve.  This  can  be 


sonps. 


841 


made  with  the  bones,  pieces,  etc.,  of  the  pheasants  after  being 
cooked,  but  of  course  will  not  be  so  rich.  Any  cold  game  can  be 
used  in  this  way. 

Pot  Au  Feu. — Take  a good-sized  soup  bone  with  plenty  of 
meat  on  it,  extract  marrow  and  place  in  a pot  on  back  of  range, 
covering  beef  with  three  or  more  quarts  cold  water;  cover  tightly, 
and  allow  to  simmer  slowly  all  day  long.  The  next  day,  before 
heating,  remove  cake  of  grease  from  top,  and  add  a large  onion 
(previously  stuck  full  of  whole  cloves,  and  then  roasted  in  the  oven 
till  of  a rich  brown  color),  adding  tomatoes  or  any  other  vegetables 
which  one  may  fancy.  A leek  or  a section  of  garlic  adds  much  to 
the  flavor.  Rice  may  be  added,  or  vermicelli  for  a change.  Just 
before  serving,  add  a teaspoon  Caramel,  giving  a peculiar  flavor  and 
richer  color  to  soup.  ^ 

Potato  Soup. — To  gallon  water  add  six  large  potatoes  chopped 
flne,  one  teacup  rice,  lump  of  butter  size  of  an  egg,  one  tablespoon 
flour.  Work  butter  and  flour  together,  and  add  one  teacup  sweet 
cream  just  before  taking  from  the  Are.  Boil  one  hour.  Or  With 
Milk^  boil  four  large  potatoes  in  water  till  tender,  drain,  mash  and 
add  three  pints  milk  in  which  have  been  boiled  an  onion  and  two 
stalks  celery  ; season  with  salt,  tablespoon  but- 
ter and  white  pepper,  adding  cup  cream  as 
above,  or  whipping  it  and  putting  in  tureen  ; rub 
through  puree  sieve  and  serve  at  once.  Some 
parboil  the  onions  in  water  then  add  to  pota- 
toes and  boil  all  together ; mash  and  add  the 
boiling  milk  with  a little  sago,  cook  fifteen 
minutes,  stirring  all  the  time,  and  serve  with- 
out rubbing  through  sieve.  A little  butter  or  cream  may  be  added, 
but  however  made, it  must  be  served  as  soon  as  ready  to  be  at  its  best. 

Pumpkin  Soup. — Put  a scant  pint  of  peeled  and  sliced  pump- 
kin into  a saucepan  with  six  stalks  celery  chopped  fine,  tablespoon 
drippings  or  butter,  teaspoon  salt,  quarter  saltspoon  pepper,  and 
three  pints  boiling  water ; boil  until  vegetables  can  be  rubbed 
through  sieve ; return  to  saucepan,  set  it  over  fire,  add  pint  boiling 
cream  or  milk,  boil  up  once  and  serve  with  Croutons  and  some  add 
a little  thickening,  and  teaspoon  sugar  is  an  addition.  Winter 
squash  may  be  used  same. 

Rabbit  Soup. — Make  soup  with  the  legs  and  shoulders  of  the 
rabbit,  and  keep  nice  pieces  for  a delicious  entree.  Put  former  into 
warm  water,  and  draw  the  blood  ; when  quite  clean,  put  them  in  a 
stewpan,  with  bunch  of  herbs,  and  a teacup  or  rather  more,  of  veal 
stock,  or  water.  Simmer  slowly  till  done  through,  and  add  three 
pints  of  water,  and  boil  for  an  hour.  Take  out  the  rabbit,  pick  the 


842 


SOUPS. 


meat  from  the  bones,  covering  it  up  to  keep  it  white ; put  bones 
back  in  the  liquor,  add  three  stalks  celery,  one  carrot,  half  an  onion, 
blade  mace,  salt  and  white  pepper  to  taste,  and  simmer  for  two 
hours ; skim  and  strain.  Add  the  meat,  reheat  and  serve. 

Rice  Soup. — Cook  half  cup  rice  in  water  till  tender,  add  two 
quarts  milk,  or  more  if  wished  thinner,  and  half  cup  raisins,  tea- 
spoon or  two  sugar  and  salt  to  taste ; set  on  back  of  stove  and  cook 
thirty  or  forty  minutes  or  till  raisins  are  tender  and  milk  and  rice 
well  blended.  Or  put  rice  in  boiling  water  five  minutes,  then  drain 
and  add  it  to  two  quarts  boiling  stock  with  half  a bay  leaf  and 
cook  till  tender,  season  and  serve.  Rice  can  be  used  as  a thicken- 
ing to  any  soup  wished. 

Sago  Soup. — Wash  three  ounces  sago  in  boiling  water,  and  add 
it  gradually  to  two  quarts  nearly  boiling  stock.  Simmer  half  an 
hour,  when  it  should  be  well  dissolved.  Beat  up  yolks  of  three  eggs, 
add  to  them  half  pint  boiling  cream,  stir  quickly  into  the  soup  with 
teaspoon  sugar  and  serve  immediately.  Do  not  let  the  soup  boil,  or 
the  eggs  will  curdle.  This  soup  is  thought  to  act  as  tonic  to  the 
chest  and  throat. 

Sheep'^ s- Head  Soup. — Wash  and  clean  a nice  head  carefully, 
put  it  into  kettle  ‘with  water  hardly  sufficient  to  cover  it ; when 
head  is  heated  through,  put  in  water  almost  to  top  of  kettle. 
When  very  tender,  which  can  be  told  by  probing  it  with  a fork,  re- 
move, strip  meat  from  bones,  and  put  bones  back  into  soup,  together 
with  an  onion  and  a bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  and  simmer  till  well 
flavored,  then  add  the  meat  which  has  been  cut  into  small  portions, 
and  serve.  Or  for  Baked  Soup.,  put  head  and  feet  into  jar  with  two 
quarts  water,  an  onion,  some  sweet  herbs,  and  a seasoning  of  pepper 
and  salt.  Cover  closel}-  and  bake.  It  can  be  served  whole,  or  the 
meat  may  be  removed  from  head,  cut  in  pieces,  and  put  with  soup. 

Spinach  Soup. — Cook  in  covered  saucepan  with  a little  salt, 
but  no  water,  till  tender ; squeeze  out  moisture  and  rub  through  a 
sieve.  Add  this  pulp  to  as  much  stock  as  will  make  of  consistency 
wished,  let  come  to  a boil,  season  and  pour  in  tureen  in  which  table- 
spoon butter  has  been  placed.  Making  the  spinach  into  balls  and 
placing  them  in  tureen  and  pouring  over  any  hot  stock  or  bouillon 
is  a more  elegant  way  of  serving  it. 

Spring  Soup. — To  three  quarts  stock  put  an  equal  amount  of 
white  and  jmllow  carrots  cut  in  fancy  shapes  and  let  it  boil  slowty 
for  an  hour,  then  add  cup  string  beans,  cut  in  sfnall  pieces  and  as 
much  asparagus,  also  cut  in  small  pieces,  and  a handful  of  pease. 
A half  an  hour  latter  add  some  cauliflower  broken  in  small  pieces, 
and  let  it  boil  until  it  is  soft.  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 


SOUPS. 


843 


Sorrel  Soup. — After  thoroughly  washing  leaves  of  garden  sor- 
rel, put  in  kettle  or  stewpan,  with  no  more  water  than  adheres  to 
them ; cover  closely,  and  stew  until  tender,  stirring  occasionally, 
but  covering  each  time.  Have  ready  soaked  some  dried  white  beans, 
enough  to  make  soup  as  thick  as  gruel ; put  them  on  tire  in  cold 
water,  and  boil  until  beans  are  very  tender.  Put  in  bones  from 
roasts,  steaks,  or  fowls,  and  any  pieces  of  cooked  or  uncooked 
meat  and  a small  piece  of  lean  salt  pork,  if  liked.  Any  roast  meat 
gravy  or  stock  can  be  used  instead  of  meat ; add  an  onion,  a sprig 
of  t%mie,  salt,  pepper  and  a bay  leaf.  Skim  out  bones,  etc.,  rub 
beans  through  sieve  and  add  to  soup  with  enough  of  the  cooked  sor- 
rel to  make  it  taste  pleasantly  sour,  let  boil  few  moments  and  serve. 

Toma  to  Soup. — Clear  tomato  soup  should  be  as  bright  as  wine, 
not  highly  colored  or  highly  flavored,  but  thoroughly  good,  and 
should  never  be  made  until  really  wanted,  as  freshness  of  flavor  .s 
a matter  of  first  importance.  Prepare  stock  from  leg  of  beef ; that 
from  bones  and  odd  pieces  will  not  do. for  this  soup;  it  must  be 
strong  and  of  a clear  golden-brown  color  and  without  a particle  of 
grease ; such  as  may  be  secured  by  stewing  about  six  pounds  of  leg 
of  beef  slowly  for  one  or  two  hours  in  three  quarts  of  water ; then 
pour  off  the  stock,  let  stand  till  cold  and  the  meat  may  be  put  on 
again  to  make  a second  stock  for  other  purposes.  To  about  three 
pints  of  this  stock  add  from  eight  to  twelve  ripe  tomatoes,  accord- 
ing to  size,  cut  in  slices,  or  canned  tomatoes  may  be  used,  one  med- 
ium-sized onion,  sliced,  and  a few  slices  of  carrot  and  turnip  ; boil 
half  an  hour  and  then  strain  off,  taking  care  not  to  press  any  of  the 
vegetables,  which  must  not  be  over-cooked.  To  the  clear  soup  add 
tablespoon  of  sugar  and  vinegar,  one  of  Worcester  sauce,  and  a lit- 
tle cayenne.  If  soup  is  not  clear  and  bright,  strain  it  through  a 
folded  towel  in  colander.  Or  skim  and  strain  one  gallon  of  stock 
made  from  nice  fresh  beef ; take  three  quarts  tomatoes,  remove  skin 
and  cut  out  hard  center,  put  through  a fine  sieve  and  add  to  the 
stock  ; make  a paste  of  butter  and  flour,  and,  when  the  stock  begins 
to  boil,  stir  in  half  a teacup,  taking  care  not  to  have  it  lumpy  ; boil 
tw^enty  minutes,  seasoning  with  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Two 
quarts  canned  tomatoes  \yill  answer.  Some  rub  through  a sieve  and 
add  teaspoon  sugar,  and  others  always  stew  the  tomatoes  as  for 
cooking,  seasoning  with  salt,  pepper  and  butter,  and  then  add  to  the 
stock,  claiming  the  soup  is  richer  and  finer  flavored  by  so  doing; 
and  onions,  carrots,  and  turnips  may  be  added  as  in  first  recipe, 
cooking  an  hour  and  a half  and  rubbing  all  through  puree  sieve,  then 
finish  as  above.  With  Cabbage.,  to  gallon  w^ater  add  quart  each  to- 
matoes and  cabbage,  two  onions,  four  good-sized  potatoes,  ail  chop- 
ped fine  ; cook  till  tender,  add  two  tablespoons  butter  with  salt  and 
pepper  to  taste  and  serve  with  toast  and  butter.  With  Corn.,  to  a soup 
Done  and  water,  add  quart  tomatoes,  an  onion,  cucumber  sliced,  two 
ears  grated  corn,  salt,  pepper  and  pinch  cavenne.  Boil  four  hours,  then 


844 


SOUPS. 


add  tablespoon  corn-starch  dissolved  in  cold  water ; strain  before 
serving,  with  Rice^  to  two  quarts  stock  add  pint  fresh  or  canned 
tomatoes,  and  cup  boiled  rice.  Cook  slowly  half  an  hour  and  season 
to  taste.  Other  vegetables  may  first  be  added,  cooking  an  hour, 
then  adding  as  above.  For  Meatless  Tomato  Soup,  one  quart  each 
tomatoes  and  water;  stew  till  soft;  add  teaspoon  soda,  allow  to 
effervesce,  and  add  quart  of  boiling  milk,  salt,  butter,  and  pepper  to 
taste,  with  a little  rolled  cracker ; boil  a few  minutes  and  serve. 
Some  do  not  use  any  water  either  with  fresh  or  canned  tomatoes, 
when  cooking  as  above, 

Turkey  Soup. — After  a roasted  turkey  has  been  served  a por- 
tion of  the  meat  still  adheres  to  the  bones,  especially  about  the 
neck  ; “drumsticks”  are  left,  or  parts  of  the  wings,  and  pieces  rarely 
called  for  at  table.  If  there  is  three-fourths  of  a cupful  or  more 
left,  cut  off  carefully  and  reserve  for  Force-meat  Balls.  Break  bones 
apart  and  with  stuffing  still  adhering  to  them,  put  in  soup  kettle 
with  three  quarts  water,  tablespoon  salt,  a pod  of  red  pepper  broken 
into  pieces,  three  or  four  b Jades  of  celery  cut  into  half  inch 
pieces,  a bay  leaf,  three  medium-sized  potatoes,  and  two  onions 
all  sliced.  If  dinner  hour  is  one  o’clock  the  kettle  should  be  over 
fire  before  eight  o’clock  in  the  morning ; or  if  the  dinner  is  at  six  in 
the  evening,  it  should  be  on  by  twelve  o’clock.  Let  it  boil  slowly, 
but  constantly  until  about  half  an  hour  before  dinner ; lift  out  bones, 
skim  off  fat,  strain  through  colander  and  return  to  kettle.  There 
will  now  be  but  little  more  than  three  pints  of  the  soup.  If  more 
than  this  is  desired,  add  a pint  of  hot  milk  or  milk  and  cream  to- 
gether ; but  it  will  be  very  nice  without  this  aadition  even  though  a 
little  more  water  be  added.  Prepare  Forcemeat  Balls  by  chop- 
ping the  scraps  of  turkey  very  fine ; take  half  a teaspoon  cracker- 
crumbs,  smoothly  rolled,  a small  saltspoon  of  cayenne  pepper,  about 
double  the  quantity  of  salt,  a little  grated  lemon  peel  and  half  a 
teaspoon  powdered  summer  savory  or  thyme ; mix  these  together 
and  add  a raw  beaten  egg  to  bind  them.  Roll  mixture  into  balls 
about  the  size  of  a hickory-nut,  and  drop  into  the  soup  about  ten 
minutes  before  serving.  Have  ready  in  tureen  a large  tablespoon  ot 
parsley,  cut  very  fine.  Pour  in  soup  and  send  to  table  hot.  If 
Force-meat  Balls  are  not  liked,  boil  two  eggs  for  half  an  hour,  cut  in 
slices,  put  them  in  tureen  with  parsley,  and  pour  soup  over  them ; 
or  slices  of  bread  (not  too  thick)  can  be  toasted,  buttered  on  both 
sides,  cut  into  inch  squares,  and  substituted  for  the  sliced  eggs. 
If  wished  richer  use  stock  instead  of  water  and  some  use  a little 
thickening  of  arrowroot  or  corn-starch,  some  vermicelli  or  macaroni 
and  a tablespoon  of  any  highly  flavored  sauce  or  catsup.  In  this 
or  any  soup  some  of  the  ingredients  may  be  omitted  if  not  at  hand 
and  soup  will  still  be  good. 

Turnip  Soup. — Put  two  thin  slices  nice  lean  ham  in  cold  water 
to  cook ; in  half  hour  add  four  thinly  sliced  turnips  with  more  cold 


SOUPS. 


845 


water ; as  soon  as  tender,  add  half  as  many  sliced  potatoes  as  tur- 
nips. These  will  cook  in  twenty  minutes  ; season  with  salt,  pepper, 
and  a piece  of  butter ; cup  cream  improves  it,  and  the  ham  may  first 
be  fried  in  kettle.  Or  melt  two  tablespoons  butter  in  saucepan,  add 
the  sliced  turnip  as  above  with  two  onions  also  sliced  ; when  browned 
add  cup  water  and  cook  an  hour,  then  add  two  quarts  any  stock  and 
simmer  half  an  hour  ; rub  through  a sieve,  reheat  and  serve.  The 
cream  may  be  added  to  this  also.  If  wanted  a white  soup  do  not 
brown  the  vegetables.  For  a Swiss  Soup,  cook  six  potatoes  and 
three  turnips  sliced  in  six  quarts  water  five  hours  or  until  perfectly 
dissolved  and  the  consistency  of  Pea  Soup,  filling  up  as  it  boils 
away ; add  butter  size  of  an  egg,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and 
serve.  A small  piece  salt  pork,  a bone  or 'bit  of  veal  or  lamb,  and 
an  onion  may  be  added  to  vary  this  soup.  For  Royal  Soup,  cut  the 
turnips  into  very  small  round  balls  and  simmer  till  tender  in  two 
quarts  of  Bouillon ; add  half  cup  strong  veal  stock  and  teaspoon, 
sugar  and  pour  in  tureen  in  which  pint  of  Croutons  have  been  placed. 

Turtle  Soup. — Day  before  the  soup  is  required,  hang  up  turtle 
by  hind  fins,  cut  off  head,  and  leave  to  bleed  and  drain  all  night. 
In  morning  lay  on  its  back  on  table,  cut  off  fore  fins,  separate  cal- 
ipash (upper  shell),  from  calipee  (under  shell),  beginning  at  hind 
fins  ; be  very  careful  in  cutting  flesh  off  the  spine  not  to  touch  the 
gall  bag,  hold  the  knife  sloping  towards  the  bom?s.  Cut  off  all  fat 
that  will  be  found  adhering  to  calipash,  and  lean  of  calipee,  then  cut 
off  hind  fins.  Remove  all  meat  from  calipee,  and  also  from  fins,  cut 
into  pieces  two  inches  square,  and  put  into  a saucepan.  Hold  cali- 
pash, calipee  and  fins  in  scalding — not  boiling — water  for  a few  min- 
utes, which  will  cause  the  shells  to  separate  easily.  This  done,  cut 
shells  into  pieces  six  inches  square,  and  put  them  into  kettle  with 
some  light  veal  stock.  Boil  until  meat  is  tender,  take  out  and  put  into 
cold  water,  free  ineat  from  bones,  and  cut  into  inch-square  pieces. 
Return  bones  to  stock,  boil  gently  two  hours  and  then  this  portion  of 
the  stock  is  fit  for  use.  Cut  fins  into  pieces  an  inch  wide,  boil  instock 
with  an  onion,  two  or  three  cloves,  a bunch  of  parsley  or  th^^me  and 
a sprig  of  sweet  basil  and  marjoram.  When  these  are  tender,  take 
out  and  add  this  stock  to  the  other.  Now  put  lean  moat  into  sauce- 
pan with  a pint  of  Madeira  or  Sherry ; or  water  and  Tarragon  or 
plain  vinegar  half  and  half,  four  tablespoons  chopped  green  shallot, 
two  sliced  lemons,  a bunch  of  thyme,  marjoram,  sweet  basil  and 
savory — about  a tablespoon  of  each  when  chopped,  with  double  the 
quantity  of  parsley.  Pound  together  one  nutmeg,  twelve  allspice, 
one  blade  of  mace,  five  or  six  cloves  and  a tablespoon  each  pepper 
and  salt ; add  teaspoon  curry-powder,  and  put  two-thirds  of  this  to 
the  lean  meat,  with  a quarter  pound  fresh  butter  and  a quart  stock. 
Let  stew  gently  until  meat  is  done.  While  turtle  is  in  preparation, 
have  a large  knuckle  of  ham  cut  into  small  dice  and  put  into  a stew- 


846 


SOUPS. 


pan  with  four  large  onions  sliced,  six  bay  leaves,  three  blades  mace, 
twelve  allspice,  three -fourths  pound  butter,  and  cover  with  veal 
stock.  Let  this  all  simmer  together  till  onions  are  melted,  or  like 
jelly.  Shred  tine  a smalt  bunch  of  basil,  a large  one  of  thyme,  sav- 
ory and  marjoram,  and  put  to  the  onions,  keeping  them  as  green  as 
possible.  When  done,  sift  into  it  a little  flour,  enough  to  thicken 
the  soup.  Then  by  degrees  add  stock  in  which  calipash  and  cali- 
pee were  boiled,  and  the’seasoning  stock  made  from  the  lean  turtle 
meat.  Boil  all  together  one  hour,  and  then  rub  through  a very  fine 
strainer  or  woolen  cloth,  add  salt,  cayenne,  and  lemon  to  suit  the 
taste.  Now  put  in  the  meat  of  the  turtle  and  let  all  boil  together 
half  an  hour  and  serve.  These  directions  are  for  a turtle  of  about 
fifty  pounds,  and  the  ingredients  can  be  increased  or  diminished 
according  to  size.  Yolks  of  hard-boiled  eggs  are  nice  placed  in 
tureen  before  adding  soup,  or  make  Force-meat  Balls  as  follows; 
take  about  a pound  of  fleshy  part  of  a leg  of  veal,  scrape  off  all  the 
meat,  without  leaving  any  sinews  or  fat,  and  soak  in  milk  about  the' 
same  quantity  of  bread-crumbs.  When  well  soaked,  squeeze  it,  and 
put  into  a mortar  with  the  veal,  a small  quantity  of  calf’s  udder,  a 
little  butter,  the  yolks  of  four  eggs,  boiled  hard,  a little  cayenne, 
salt,  and  spices,  and  pound  very  fine ; then  thicken  mixture  with 
two  whole  eggs  and  yolk  of  another.  Try  this  stuffing  in  boiling 
hot  water,  to  ascertain  its  consistency  ; if  it  is  too  thin,  add  another 
yolk.  When  perfected,  take  half  of  it,  and  put  into  it  some  chopped 
parsley.  Let  the  whole  cool,  in  order  to  roll  it  of  the  size  of  the 
yolk  of  an  egg ; poach  it  in  boiling  salted  water,  and  when  very 
hard  drain  on  a-  sieve,  and  put  it  into  the  soup.  Before  serving 
squeeze  the  juice  of  two  or  three  lemons  upon  a little  cayenne  and 
add  to  soup.  For  Mock  Terrapin  Soup^  use  small  lobe  liver,  about 
a cup  full,  calves’  liver  best;  cut  in  very  small  pieces,  less  than  half 
an  inch  square,  boil  in  hot  water  half  an  hour  with  teaspoon  salt, 
then  put  heaping  tablespoon  butter  and  flour  in  saucepan,  stir  till 
mixed  brown,  then  add  water  in  which  liver  was  boiled,  half  cup  at 
a time  stirring  smooth,  adding  more  hot  water  if  needed  to  make 
soup  right  consistency,  less  thick  than  gravy  ; season  with  salt,  pep- 
per, a dust  of  cayenne  pepper  and  very  little  pinch  of  nutmeg,  pow- 
dered cloves  and  allspice.  Put  in  sliced  liver,  let  boil  just  once,  and 
then  serve  and  with  it  a little  dish  of  finely-chopped  lemon. 

Veal  Soup. — To  about  three  pounds  of  a w^ell-broken  joint  of 
veal,  add  four  quarts  water,  let  boil,  skim  and  simmer  two  or  three 
hours  ; prepare  one-fourth  pound  macaroni  by  boiling  by  itself  with 
enough  water  to  cover  and  season  to  taste  with  salt  and  pepper,  and 
add  the  macaroni  with  the  water  in  which  it  was  boiled.  Onions 
or  celery  may  be  added  for  flavoring. 

Vegetahle  Soiip. — After  bojling  a soup  bone  or  piece  of  beef  un- 
til done,  add  to  the  broth  boiling  water  to  make  the  amount  of  soup 


SOUPS. 


847 


wanted,  and  when  boiling  again  add  a large  handful  of  cabbage  cut 
fine  as  for  slaw,  a half  pint  of  tomatoes,  canned  or  fresh ; peel  and 
slice  and  add  three  large  or  four  small  onions, two  or  three  potatoes  and 
some  use  a half  teacup  of  dried  or  half  pint  of  green  corn  (if  dried 
it  should  be  soaked).  Let  boil  from  half  to  three-quarters  of  an 
hour ; if  thickening  is  wished  stir  an  egg  or  yolk  with  a large  spoon- 
ful milk  and  teaspoon  flour,  and  put  in  five  or  ten  minutes  before 
taking  off ; this  makes  it  very  rich,  oerve  with  crackers.  Or  With- 
out Meat,  take  three  each  onions,  carrots,  and  turnips,  one  small 
cabbage,  one  pint  tomatoes ; chop  all  the  vegetables  except  the  to- 
matoes very  fine,  have  ready  in  a porcelain  kettle  three  quarts  boil- 
ing water,  put  in  all  except  cabbage  and  tomatoes  and  simmer 
for  half  an  hour,  then  add  the  chopped  cabbage  and  tomatoes 
(the  tomatoes  previously  stewed),  also  a bunch  of  sweet  herbs.  Let 
soup  boil  for  twenty  minutes,  strain  through  sieve,  rubbing  all  the 
vegetables  through.  Beat  two  tablespoons  best  butter  and  one  of 
flour  to  a cream.  Now  pepper  and  salt  soup  to  taste,  and  add  a 
teaspoon  white  sugar,  a half  cup  of  sweet  cream  if  at  hand  and  then 
stir  in  the  butter  and  flour ; let  boil  up  and  it  is  ready  for  table. 
Serve  with  Croutons,  or  poached  eggs  one  in  each  dish.  Or  slice 
cabbage,  carrots,  turnips,  parsnips,  and  cook  as  above,  always  re- 
membering to  have  v/ater  or  stock  boiling  in  which  vegetables  are 
placed  ; when  tender  add  stewed  tomatoes  rubbed  through  a sieve  or 
not  as  wished ; whenever  tomatoes  are  used  in  any  soup  it  is  a very 
great  improvement  to  first  stew  them,  either  fresh  or  canned,  seas- 
oning with  butter,  salt  and  pepper ; this  makes  a little  more  trouble 
but  the  soup  is  very  much  finer  flavored.  When  done,  if  soup  is 
wished  richer  add  any  stock  on  hand  till  flavored  as  wished,  boil  up 
once  and  serve.  Cooking  the  vegetables  tender  in  water  is  more 
economical  than  using  stock  as  in  adding  latter  at  last,  only  a small 
quantity  need  be  used  to  produce  required  flavor ; or  recookiilg  a 
soup  bone  adding  vegetables  as  soon  as  it  boils  makes  a nice  soup. 
When  a thickening  is  added  some  put  in  a teaspoon  of  mustard 
with  the  flour,  etc.  Celery  cooked  with  the  vegetables  is  always  a 
nice  addition  and  a little  flavoring  of  onion  is  almost  a necessity.  A 
slice  of  well  toasted  bread  is  added  with  the  vegetables  by  some, 
rubbing  all  through  sieve  and  when  reheating  adding  teaspoon  or 
two  of  some  bottled  sauce.  With  Soiir  Cream,  to  three  or  four 
quarts  any  vegetable  soup  add  cup  sour  cream  just  before  serving. 

Vermicelli  Soup. — Put  one  chicken  trussed  for  boiling  in  ket- 
tle with  a pound  or  so  of  bacon  and  three  quarts  water  and  cook 
till  tender ; in  the  meantime  cook  two  or  three  ounces  vermicelli  in 
a little  water  or  stock  till  quite  tender ; take  out  chicken  and  bacon 
on  dish  for  serving ; add  vermicelli  to  soup  and  serve.  Some  stick 
eight  or  ten  cloves  in  bacon. 

Weimar  Soup, — Cut  any  pieces  of  corned  beef  or  salt  pork, 
about  two  pounds,  in  small  pieces,  add  two  ©r  three  quarts  water 


848 


SOUPS. 


and  simmer  two  or  three  hours ; add  three  each  carrots,  parsnips, 
turnips,  potatoes  and  stalks  celery  and  one  small  cabbage,  all  cut  in 
thin  small  slices.  Add  gill  oatmeal,  cook  an  hour  and  serve  with- 
out straining.  Split  pease  may  be  used  adding  them  with  the  meat. 
The  meat  may  need  soaking  if  very  salt.  Any  Bouillon  or  stock 
may  be  made  of  corned  beef  using  more  water  with  it  when  prepar- 
ing for  serving,  and  always  when  boiling  corned  beef  save  the  broth 
for  either  soup  or  gravy.  A soup  can  be  made  like  the  Weimar  of 
fresh  meat. 

White  Soup. — Cover  bones  from  cooked  chickens  ; three  pounds 
veal  bones,  cracked  in  pieces,  pound  lean  veal  cut  in  small  pieces, 
a minced  onion  and  bunch  parsley  with  cold  water  and  liquor  in 
which  chickens  were  cooked  if  boiled.  Simmer  two  or  three  hours, 
strain,  return  to  kettle,  season,  boil  up,  skim,  and  add  pint  milk  and 
as  much  cooked  farina  as  wished  ; place  on  back  of  stove,  simmer 
ten  minutes  and  then  add  a beaten  egg  first  mixed  well  with  a cup 
of  the  soup,  keep  covered  a moment  or  two  and  then  serve.  Or  cook 
gently  an  hour  and  a quarter  a half  pint  each  white  turnip  and  cel- 
ery and  half  a gill  onion,  all  cut  in  small  pieces  with  a blade  of 
mace  in  one  gallon  White  Stock.  Strain,  reheat,  add  tablespoon 
corn-starch  mixed  smoothly  in  water,  let  boil,  add  cup  sweet  cream 
and  season  with  salt  and  white  pepper.  Add  egg  as  above  and  serve. 

Wyntoun  Soup. — Put  three  pounds  ne<"k  of^iutton,  meat  sliced 
and  bones  broken,  in  three  quarts  water,  wdth  fcwo  each  carrots  and 
turnips  sliced  and  cook  four  hours ; take  out  meat  and  bones,  rub 
soup  and  vegetables  through  sieve,  let  cool,  take  off  fat,  reheat, 
season  and  add  half  cup  barley,  soaked  overnight,  and  quart  green 
pease ; simmer  half  an  hour,  add  teaspoon  sugar  and  serve.  Or 
cook  half  cup  barley  in  quart  water  till  tender,  add  quarter  of  a 
turnip,  if  large,  a small  onion  and  two  potatoes,  all  chopped  fine ; 
when  cooked  add  more  water  and  stock  from  boiled  corned  beef  till 
well  flavored  and  seasoned.  Remove  to  back  of  stove,  add  pint 
cream  or  milk  and  serve. 

Balls  for  Soup. — There  are  many  different  articles  served  in 
soup  besides  those  given,  such  as  fancy  letters,  stars,  triangles,  etc., 
which  may  be  purchased,  and  also  the  French  Paste  which  comes  in 
squares  in  little  boxes.  This  is  used  more  for  coloring  and  flavor- 
ing ; place  in  tureen  and  pour  soup  over  it,  stirring  as  soup  is  served. 
Among  the  different  balls  used  are  the  Egg  Balls.,  mix  raw  egg 
with  just  enough  flour  or  corn-starch  to  make  into  round  balls,  then 
drop  into  soup  and  boil  ten  minutes.  A little  milk,  a teaspoon  to 
one  egg,  is  an  improvement ; also  a sprinkle  of  salt.  Or  for  two 
quarts  soup  make  balls  by  boiling  one  egg  hard ; put  yolk  of  it  in 
a bowl,  pound  to  a paste  and  break  in  a raw  egg  yolk,  add  a dust 
cayenne  pepper,  tablespoon  salad  oil,  saltspoon  salt,  and  flour  to 


SOUPS. 


849 


roll  into  balls  with  the  hands  about  a teaspoon.  Put  dry  flour  on 
both  hands,  use  saltspoon  of  mixture,  or  make  a long  roll  and  cut 
ofi*  ends  and  make  into  balls  ; have  deep  saucepan  half  full  of  boil- 
ing water,  put  in  egg  balls  and  let  them  boil  till  they  come  to  top, 
then  take  out  with  strainer,  put  in  soup  when  ready  to  serve,  or  some 
cook  them  in  soup.  They  are  also  nice  served  with  other  dishes ; or 
to  yolks  of  three  eggs  use  one  raw  yolk  and  omit  the  salad  oil. 
Some  use  the  raw  white  of  the  egg  rather  than  yolk  and  also  care- 
fully fry  brown  in  butter  or  any  nice  fat ; then  place  in  tureen  and 
pour  over  the  soup.  For  Farina  Balls^  boil  quart  milk  in  custard 
kettle,  add  salt  and  tablespoon  butter,  and  thicken  with  farina. 
Cook  well,  and  when  cold  stir  one  whole  egg  and  one  yolk  through 
the  mixture.  Make  into  balls  or  shape  with  s{)oon,  and  drop  in  the 
boiling  soup  just  before  serving.  For  Force-meat  Balls ^ add  to 
pound  chopped  beef  one  egg,  a small  lump  butter,  a cup  or  less  of 
bread-crumbs ; season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  moisten  with  the 
water  from  stewed  meat ; make  in  balls  and  fry  brown ; or  take  slices 
of  raw  veal  and  a little  salt  pork,  and  chop  very  flne  with  a slice  of 
wheat  bread.  Season  highly  with  pepper,  salt,  tomato  catsup,  and 
chopped  lemon  peel,  moisten  with  two  well-beaten  eggs,  and  roll 
into  balls  as  large  as  a walnut,  with  floured  hands.  Fry  the  balls 
in  butter  to  a dark  brown,  and  let  them  cool ; turn  into  the  soup  and 
boil  about  ten  minutes.  Or  for  Veal  Balls  take  half  pint  each 
minced  cooked  veal  and  bread-crumbs  with  half  gill  chopped  suet 
seasoned  with  salt,  pepper  and  any  sweet  herbs  liked.  Add  beaten 
egg  sufflcient  to  make  into  balls  and  fry  brown.  These  are  used  for 
the  richer  soups  such  as  Calf  s-head,  etc.  For  Force-meat  Balls  for 
Fish  Soups,  pick  meat  from  the  shell  of  the  lobster,  and  pound  it, 
with  the  soft  parts,  in  a bowl ; add  six  stalks  boiled  celery,  the  yolk 
of  a hard-boiled  egg,  salt,  cayenne  and  little  mace,  and  gill  or  more 
of  bread-crumbs.  Continue  pounding  till  the  whole  is  well  mixed ; 
melt  two  tablespoons  butter  and  add  with  two  well-beaten  eggs ; 
make  into  balls  about  an  inch  in  diameter,  and  fry  brown.  Place 
in  tureen,  add  soup  and  serve.  Some  add  half  an  anchovy,  pounded. 
For  German  Balls,  mix  together  butter  and  cracker-crumbs  into  a 
firm  round  ball  and  drop  into  soup  a short  time  before  serving. 
These 'are  especially  nice  for  Chicken  Soup.  Putting  slices  of 
lemon  and  hard-boiled  eggs  in  tureen  and  adding  soup  makes  a 
dainty  dish,  and  where  the  eggs  are  not  sliced,  but  simply  the  whole 
boiled  yolk  used  it  is  certainly  “fit  to  set  before  the  king.” 

Croutons. — These  are  different  shapes  of  bread,  without  crust, 
cut  and  fried  or  toasted.  For  Soups,  cut  in  dice  about  third  of  an 
inch  square  or  even  less  and  fry  in  butter  in  frying-pan  or  in  a ket- 
tle of  smoking-hot  fat  like  fritters  till  a golden  brown,  drain  and  add 
to  tureen  or  put  a spoonful  in  each  dish  and  add  soup.  Some 
simply  toast  the  bread,  then  cut  it ; or  butter  or  not  as  wished,  cut 
and  toast  in  oven,  serving  as  above.  Crackers  crisped  in  oven  are 
54 


850 


SOUPS. 


nice  for  Oyster  soup.  For  Entrees^  cut  bresi.d  in  heart-shaped 
pieces  about  two  inches  long  and  half  an  inch  thick  and  fry  or  toast 
as  above.  For  Vegetables^  cut  in  triangular  pieces  one  and  a half 
inches  long,  same  thickness  and  fry  as  above. 

Dumplings. — These  are  a nice  addition  to  soups  and  are  made 
in  many  ways,  but  however  made,  a little  cold  water  should  be  added 
to  soup  to  stop  the  boiling  just  before  they  are  put  in  (there  are  one 
or  two  exceptions)  and  then  the  soup  must  not  cease  boiling  for  at 
least  ten  or  fifteen  minutes  when  they  will  be  done ; it  is  also  very 
important  the  cover  fits  closely  that  steam  does  not  escape.  For 
Buckeye  Dumplings,  take  half  pint  sweet  milk,  two  eggs,  and 
enough  flour  to  make  stiff  batter ; drop  off  spoon  into  the  soup  and 
cook  ten  minutes.  For  Marrow  Dumolings,  which  are  very  deli- 
cate and  can  be  varied  in  seasoning  to  suit  any  soup,  beat  one 
ounce  uncooked  marrow  and  tablespoon  butter  to  a cream  ; add  two 
well-beaten  eggs  and  half  pint  bread-crumbs  which  should  previously 
well  be  soaked  in  boiling  milk,  strained,  and  beaten  up  with  a fork. 
When  well  mixed  add  teaspoon  each  minced  parsley  and  onion  with 
salt,  pepper  and  grated  nutmeg  to  taste,  omitting  the  minced  onions 
where  the  flavor  is  very  much  disliked,  and  form  the  mixture  into 
small  round  dumplings.  Drop  these  into  boiling  soup  and  let  them 
simmer  for  about  half  an  hour.  Serve  in  soup  and  they  are  also  very 
nice  with  roast  meats  or  salad.  Grated  lemon  peel  and  mace  make  a 
nice  seasoning  and  they  me  ready  to  serve  as  soon  as  they  rise  to  sur- 
face ; butter  may  be  omitted  if  wished.  For  Suet  Dumplings,  take 
pint  and  a half  flour,  two  thirds  of  a pint  beef  suet,  half  teaspoon 
baking  powder,  saltspoon  salt,  half  pint  of  cold  water.  Mix  in  a 
large  bowl,  the  suet,  finely  chopped,  and  flour  ; add  to  this  the  bak- 
ing powder  and  salt  and  knead  into  a dry  dough  with  the  water. 
Divide  this  dough  in  small  pieces,  roll  each  piece  in  a little  ball  and 
throw  them  one  by  one  into  the  boiling  soup  twenty  minutes  before 
serving.  The  dropping  of  balls  cools  the  boiling  soup  and  care 
should  therefore  be  taken  to  wait  an  instant  between  the  putting  in 
of  each  one  that  the  liquid  may  boil  up,  otherwise  the  balls  will 
burst  apart.  This  is  one  of  the  exceptions  to  general  rule.  For 
Sussex  Dumplings,  mix  quart  flour  with  half  pint  water  and  little 
salt  making  a smooth  paste ; form  into  balls  and  drop  in  soup.  For 
Quick  Dumplings,  take  pint  of  flour,  measured  before  sifting ; half 
teaspoon  soda,  teaspoon  cream  tartar,  one  of  sugar  and  half  of  salt, 
and  mix  thoroughly,  sifting  once  or  twice,  and  a teacup  milk. 
Sprinkle  a little  flour  on  board.  Turn  the  dough  (which  should 
have  been  stirred  into  a smooth  ball  with  a spoon)  on  it,  roll  half 
inch  thick,  cut  into  small  cakes,  and  cook  ten  minutes,  and  when 
these  are  added  to  soup  have  it  boiling.  Light  biscuit  dough  makes 
nice  dumplings  and  when  used  roll  thin,  cut  and  roll  into  balls  and 
finish  as  directed,  although  some  prefer  to  steam  them  and  then 
place  in  tureen  and  pour  soup  over  them. 


SOUPS. 


851 


Mixed  Spices. — These  with  herbs  prepared  by  professional 
cooks,  may  be  had  in  large  cities,  and  save  much  trouble.  For  the 
benefit  of  those  who  cannot  obtain  them  we  give  two  of  the  best 
recipes.  Take  one  ounce  each  nutmegs  and  mace,  two  ounces  each 
cloves  and  white  pepper-corns ; an  ounce  each  sweet  basil,  marjoram 
and  thyme,  and  half  an  ounce  bay  leaves.  The  herbs  must  of  course 
be  previously  dried  as  directed,  page  163.  Pound  the  spices  to  crack 
them,  then  put  all  between  two  sheets  white  paper  folded  to  cover 
them  tightly  and  put  in  warm  place  to  become  perfectly  dry.  Then 

Eound  quickly,  put  through  a sieve  and  put  away  in  tightly  corked 
ottles.  Or  mix  one  ounce  each  lemon-thyme,  winter  savory,  sweet 
marjoram  and  basil,  two  ounces  parsley,and  an  ounce  lemon  peel, all 
previously  dried ; pound,  sift  and  bottle  as  above.  Mint,  sage,  pars- 
ley and  all  herbs  should  be  dried,  pounded  and  sifted  and  bottled 
separately  for  wdnter  use.  Black  pepper,  when  prepared  as  a con- 
diment, should  be  powdered  not  ground,  that  all  heating  may  be 
avoided,  and  the  volatile  oil  and  fine  aromatic  flavor  retained. 


852 


VEGETABLES. 


VEGhETABLES. 


Ail  vegetables  are  better  cooked  in  soft  water,  provided  it  is 
clean  and  pure ; if  hard  water  is  used,  put  in  small  pinch  of  soda. 
The  water  should  be  freshly  drawn,  and  should  only  be  put  over 
fire  in  time  to  reach  the  hoiling  point  before  the  hour  for  putting  in 
vegetables,  as  standing  and  long  boiling  frees  the  gases  and  renders  ' 
the  vv^ater  insipid.  The  fresher  all  vegetables  are,  the  more  whole- 
some. After  being  washed  thoroughly,  put  them  in  the  hoiling 
water  using  only  enough  to  cook  them,  as  when  much  is  to  be 
drained  oft'  some  of  the  sweetness  of  the  vegetables  is  lost.  If  they 
are  fresh  they  will  not  need  to  be  placed  in  cold  water  before  cook- 
ing ; but  if  not  so,  then  let  stand  half  an  hour  in  it,  but  some  of  the 
flavor  is  thereby  lost.  Keep  water  boiling  all  the  time,  and  if  more 
has  to  be  added,  let  it  be  boiling;  do  not  cook  too  long,  only  till 
tender^  as  too  long  cooking  is  very  injurious. 

This  is  true  of  all  vegetables ; they  must  be  thor- 
oughly done,  that  is  cooked  tender,  one  can  eas- 
ily test  them,  and  should  then  be  served  at  once. 

Where  there  is  danger  from  burning,  the  kettle 
illustrated  is  of  great  service.  It  is  very  nice  for 
spinach,  etc.,  where  it  is  cooked  without  water. 

While  all  are  best  fresh,  green  corn  and  pease 
must  be  so  to  be  in  their  prime.  The  proportion  of  salt  in  cooking 
vegetables  is  a heaping  tablespoon  to  every  gallon  of  water,  added 
when  half  done ; after  vegetables  are  added,  press  down  with  a 
wooden  spoon,  skim  when  necessary,  and  for  green  vegetables,  such 
as  asparagus,  pease,  beans,  etc.,  do  not  put  cover  on  the  kettle  or 
saucepan.  If  one  is  very  particular  about  preserving  their  color ; 
when  done,  drain  and  place  in  cold  salted  water  a moment  or  two  or  till 


VEGETABLES. 


853 


ready  to  use,  then  reheat,  season  and  serve.  Sometimes  pease,  beans, 
etc.,  do  not  boil  easily  and  it  has  usually  been  imputed  to  the  cold- 
ness of  the  season,  or  the  rains.  This  peculiar  notion  is  erroneous. 
The  difficulty  of  boiling  them  soft  arises  from  an  excess  of  gypsum 
imbibed  during  their  growth.  To  correct  this,  throw  a small  quant- 
ity of  carbonate  of  soda  (common  baking  soda)  in  the  pot  with  the 
vegetables.  For  keeping  vegetables  fresh  for  present  use,  see  Keep- 
ing Fruits  and  Vegetables.  Never  split  onions,  turnips  and  carrots, 
but  slice  them  in  rings  cut  across  the  fiber,  as  they  thus  cook  tender 
much  quicker.  If  the  home  garden  furnishes  the  supply  of  pease, 
spinach,  green  beans,  asparagus,  etc.,  pick  them  in  the  morning 
early,  when  the  dew  is  on,  and  put  them  in  a clean  cool  place,  near 
ice  if  possible.  A piece  of  red  pepper  the  size  of  finger  nail,  dropped 
into  meat  or  vegetables  when  first  beginning  to  cook,  will  aid  greatly 
in  killing  the  unpleasant  odor.  Remember  this  for  boiled  cabbage, 
green  beans,  onions,  mutton  and  chicken.  All  vegetables  should 
be  thoroughly  cooked,  and  require  a longer  time  late  in  their  season. 
Cabbage,  potatoes,  carrots,  turnips,  parsnips,  onions  and  beets  are 
injured  for  some  by  being  boiled  with  fresh  meat,  and  they  also  in- 
jure the  flavor  of  the  meat.  In 
cutting  vegetables  in  fancy  shapes 
a set  of  vegetable  cutters  that 
come  nicely  packed  in  a box  are 
very  convenient.  The  “regula- 
tion” greens  such  as  dandelions, 
spinach,  sorrel,  horseradish  and  beet  tops,  mustard,  borage,  chicory, 
and  corn  salad  are  sometimes  cooked  alone  and  sometimes  with 
salt  pork  as  preferred.  In  preparing  them,  first  wash  them  leaf  by 
leaf  in  warm  water,  rather  more  than  tepid,  having  a dish  of  cold 
water  to  place  them  in  immediately.  The  warm  water  more  cer- 
tainly cleans  the  leaf  and  does  not  destroy  the  crispness  if  they  are 
placed  o.t  once  in  cold  water  with  a little  salt  in  it.  But  whether 
washed  in  warm  water  or  cold  water,  take  them  leaf  by  leaf,  break- 
ing the  heads  off,  not  cutting  them,  and  they  will  often  need  two  or 
three  waters  as  they  are  sometimes  quite  sandy.  To  guard  against 
insects  some  put  a little  salt,  tablespoon  to  a quart,  in  the  water  in 
which  they  are  washed,  using  cold  water  for  this.  Steaming  is  a 
very  easy  and  satisfactory  way  in  which  to  cook  most  vegetables, 
especially  those  of  a watery  nature  and  many  prefer  it  to  boiling. 


"^1=0 
Vegetable  Cutteis. 


854 


VEGETABLES. 


The  patent  steamers  are  very  convenient  as  two  or  more  vegetables 
can  be  steamed  at  once  without  the  mingling  of  flavors.  These  ar« 
some  of  the  general  suggestions  for  cooking  vegetables  but  as  there 
are  so  many  individual  ones  each  recipe  will  be  a law  unto  itself. 



Artichokes. — There  are  two  varieties ; the  Jerusalem,  resembl 
tng  potatoes,  which  scrape,  placing  at  once  in  cold,  salted  water  it 
which  a half  gill  vinegar  has  been  added ; when  ready  to  cook,  place 
in  boiling  water  to  not  quite  cover  and  boil  till  tender,  about  half 
an  hour,  salting  just  before  they  are  done.  Drain  and  pour  over  a 
sauce  made  by  browning  in  frying  pan  three  tablespoons  butter  and 
one  of  flour,  adding  half  pint  vinegar,  a little  salt,  speck  cayenne, 
half  .teaspoon  sugar  and  boiling  up  once.  This  makes  a dish  much 
relished.  They  can  also  be  mashed  as  potatoes,  or  Fried,  by  slic- 
ing very  thin  and  placing  in  the  vinegar  water  as  above ; drain  off 
water,  and  season  with  pinch  salt  and  pepper.  Break  eggs  into  a 
bowl,  add  three  teaspoons  salad  oil  and  teaspoon  flour,  mix  thor- 
oughly, and  pour  over  the  artichokes  ; stirring  them  with  the  hand 
lightly  so  as  to  cover  every  portion  of  them  with  the  mixture.  Fry 
very  gently  of  a light  gold  color,  drain  on  blotting  paper,  and  pile 
them  up  in  a white  napkin,  garnish  with  fried  parsley  and  serve, 
For  the  Cardoon  Artichoke  in  which  the  tops  are  what  are  used, 
wash  artichokes  well  in  several  waters;  see  that  no  insects  remain 
about  them,  and  trim  away  leaves  at  bottom.  Cut  off  stems  and 
out  tops  into  hoiling  water,  to  which  have  been  added  tablespoon 
salt  and  pinch  soda.  Keep  saucepan  uncovered,  and  let  boil  quickly 
until  lender;  ascertain  when  they  are  done  by  thrusting  a fork  in 
them,  or  by  trying  if  the  leaves  can  be  easily  removed.  Take  them 
out,  let  them  drain  for  a minute  or  two,  and  serve  in  a napkin,  or 
with  a little  White  Sauce  poured  over.  A tureen  of  melted  butter 
should  accompany  them.  This  vegetable,  unlike  any  other,  is  bet- 
ter for  being  gathered  two  or  three  days ; but  they  must  be  v/ell 
soaked  and  washed  previous  to  dressing.  For  Fried  Artichokes^ 
boil  as  above  and  when  tender,  take  up,  rub  over  with  lemon  juice, 
remove  the  chokes  and  divide  the  bottoms ; dip  each  piece  into  bat* 
ter,  fry  in  hot  lard  or  dripping  and  serve,  garnished  with  crisped 
parsley  and  accompanied  with  Drawn  Butter  Sauee. 

Asparagus. — In  gathering  asparagus,  never  cut  it  off,  but  snap 
or  break  it ; in  this  way  the  white,  woody  part,  v/hich  no  boiling  can 
make  tender,  is  left  in  ground.  Cook  as  Asparagus  Toast  on  page 
58 ; or  cut  asparagus,  when  boiled,  into  little  bits,  leaving  out  white 
end,  make  gravy  as  in  above  recipe,  put  cut  asparagus  into  a hot  dish, 
and  turn  the  gravy  over  and  serve ; or  use  only  a little  water,  drain 
and  add  cream  for  the  gravy.  A simple  manner  of  boiling  aspara- 


VEC4ETABLES 


855 


gus  is  to  tie  in  a bundle,  or  some  first  wrap  in  cotton  ck)th  and  then 
tie,  and  set  upright  in  a saucepan  containing  boiling  water  enough 
to  reach  nearly  to  the  tender  tips ; boil  rapidly  till  tender ; lay  a 
napkin  on  a hot  platter,  take  out  asparagus,  drain  for  a moment, 
place  on  napkin,  unwrap,  and  fold  over  the  asparagus  the  corners  of 
the  napkin,  and  serve  in  this  form,  with  White 
Sauce  in  a gravy-boat ; or  On  Toast^  by  cooking 
as  above  and  then  dip  toast  in  asparagus  water, 
i)lace  on  a hot  dish  and  lay  the  asparagus  on  each  Asparagus  ou  Toast, 
slice  with  bits  of  butter  between  the  stalks.  You ^Amhushed  As'para- 
gus  or.  Asparagus  Rolls^  cut  off  tender  tops  of  fifty  heads  of  aspar- 
agus ; boil  and  drain  them.  Have  ready  as  many  stale  biscuits  or 
rolls  as  there  are  persons  to  be  served,  from  which  you  have  cut  a 
neat  top  slice  and  scooped  out  the  inside.  Set  them  in  the  oven  to 
crisp,  laying  the  tops  beside  them,  that  all  may  dry  together.  Mean- 
while boil  the  stalks  in  a little  water,  skim  out  and  add  a cup  of 
milk  or  cream,  then  beat  in  yolks  of  two  eggs ; set  over  fire  and  stir 
till  it  thickens,  when  add  a tablespoon  butter,  and  season  with  salt 
and  pepper.  Into  this  put  asparagus,  minced  fine  and  remove  from 
fire  at  once.  Fill  the  rolls  with  mixture,  put  on  tops,  fitting  them 
carefully ; set  in  oven  three  minutes,  after  which  arrange  on  a dish, 
and  serve  hot.  More  eggs  can  be  used  and  any  proportion  of 
asparagus,  sauce,  etc.,  may  be  made.  This  seems  like  an  | elaborate 
dish,  but  it  is  not  difficult  to  make  and  in  the  early  season  is  a nice 
way  of  making  a small  quantity  serve  quii>e  a number.  For  Fried 
Asparagus^  blanch  it  a couple  of  minutes,  and  then  drain ; dip  each 
piece  in  batter  and  fry  in  hot  fat.  When  done,  sprinkle  with  salt 
and  serve  hot.  This  is  nice  and  easy  to  prepare.  For  Asparagus 
Pudding^  boil  tender  the  green  tops  of  two  bunches  of  asparagus, 
let  cool,  and  cut  up  small.  Beat  together  four  eggs  and  tablespoon 
butter ; add  three  of  flour,  cup  milk,  and  the  asparagus,  with  a seas- 
oning of  salt  and  pepper  and  some  add  a tablespoon  finely-minced 
boiled  ham ; put  in  a well-greased  mold  with  a top,  and  cook  in  a 
pot  of  boiling  water  nearly  two  hours.  Turn  out  on  a dish  and  pour 
a cup  of  brown  butter  over  it.  Pease  Pudding  made  same  with 
green  pease.  .Either  are  very  delicious.  For  Asj)arag^ts  Salad j 
boil  and  let  cool  in  ice-box,  and  serve  with  a sauce  made  of  vinegar, 
pepper,  and  salt  or  an3r  Salad  Dressing.  For  Asparagus  Sauce^  cut 
a pint  of  asparagus  in  half-inch  pieces,  boil  tender,  rub  through 
sieve  and  add  veal  gravy  mixed  with  yolks  of  eggs  and  a little  salt 
and  cayenne.  For  Fggs  and  Asparagus^  cut  tender  asparagus  into 
pieces  "half  an  inch  long,  and  boil  twenty  minutes,  then  drain  till 
dry,  and  put  into  a saucepan  containing  a cup  of  rich  drawn  butter; 
heat  together  to  a boil,  season  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  pour  into 
a buttered  dish.  Break  half  a dozen  eggs  over  the  surface,  put  a 
bit  of  butter  upon  each,  sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  put  in 
the  oven  until  the  eggs  are  set. 


858 


VEGETABLES. 


Butter  Beans. — With  a knife  cut  off  the  ends  of  pods  and 
strings  from  Tboth  sides,  being  very  careful  to  remove  every  shred ; 
cut  every  bean  lengthwise,  in  two  or  three  strips,  and  leave  them  for 
half  an  hour  in  cold  water.  Much  more  than  cover  them  with  boil- 
ing water;  boil  till  perfectly  tender.  It  is  well  to  allow  three  hours 
for  boiling.  Drain  well,  return  to  kettle,  and  add  a dressing  of  half 
a gill  cream,  one  and  a half  ounces  butter,  one  even  teaspoon  salt, 
and  half  a teaspoon  pepper.  This  is  sufficient  for  a quart  of  cooked 
beans.  For  String  Beans^  string,  snap  and  wash  two  quarts  beans, 
boil  in  plenty  of  water  about  fifteen  minutes,  drain  off  and  put  on 
again  in  about  two  quarts  boiling  water ; boil  an  hour  and  a half, 
and  add  salt  and  pepper  just  before  taking  up,  stirring  in  one  and  a 
half  tablespoons  butter  rubbed  into  two  of  flour  and  half  pint  sweet 
cream.  Or,  boil  a piece  of  salt  pork  one  hour,  then  add  beans  and 
boil  an  hour  and  a half.  Or  for  Castle  Beans,  put  on  string  beans 
in  boiling  water  and  after  cooking  an  hour  add  a half  pound  of  salt 
pork  and  cook  three  hours  ; add  a little  thickening  if  needed,  and 
serve  with  Steamed  Corn  Bread,  page  30.  ¥qy  Beans,  French  Style, 
choose  small  young  beans,  strip  oft'  ends  and  stalks  throwing  them 
into  cold  water,  wash  and  drain  well,  boil  in  salted  boiling  water  in 
a large  saucepan  ; drain,  put  in  a clean  saucepan, shake  over  the  fire 
until  they  are  quite  hot  and  dry;  add  three  tablespoons  butter,  one 
of  veal  or  chicken  broth,  season  with  white  pepper,  salt  and  the 
juice  of  half  a lemon,  stir  well  and  serve.  To  preserve  color  cook 
String  Beans  as  follow^s : Take  strings  off  small  young  beans, 
wash  and  cut  in  slivers  by  holding' knife  in  diagonal  shape,  placing 
quite  a lot  of  beans  in  a pile.  Cook  till  tender,  drain  and  place  in 
cold  salted  water  till  time  to  use,  w^hen  heat  quickly,  with  salt,  pep- 
per and  butter  or  any  nice  dressing  wished.  If  for  salad  do  not  re- 
heat. For  Shelled  Beans,  boil  half  an  hour  in  water  to  cover,  and 
dress  as  in  first  recipe  for  String  Beans ; or  when  almost  tender 
drain  and  put  in  saucepan  with  cup  any  stock,  small  bunch  herbs 
and  teaspoon  sugar ; stew  till  perfectly  tender  and  then  add  beaten 
yolk  of  one  egg  with  gill  cream  and  when  hot,  serve.  For  Dry 
Lima  Beans,  wash  one  quart  of  dry  lima  beans  in  two  warm  waters, 
soak  three  hours,  drain,  and  put  on  to  cook  in  enough  boiling  water 
to  cover  them ; cover  pot  with  tin  lid,  adding  more  hot  water  as  it 
boils  away,  boiling  rapidly  for  one  and  a half  hours,  when  there 
should  be  only  wuater  enough  to  come  up  to  the  top  of  the  beans— 
just  sufficient'to  make  a nice  dressing.  Five  minutes  before  taking 
up,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  stir  in  a dressing  made  of  one 
tablespoon  each  of  flour  and  butter,  rubbed  together  until  smooth. 
This  is  a delicious  dish.  Any  dried  beans  can  be  cooked  same  way. 
A recipe  is  given  for  Boston  Baked  Beans  in  Meats,  but  we  add  one 
With  Onions,  wash  well  and  soak  quart  beans,  small  ones  are  best, 
in  w^ater  to  cover;  place  in  hot  v/ater  and  parboil  till  skin  cracks; 
put  small  onion  in  bottom  of  bean  pot,  put  beans  in,  and  add  one 


VEGETABLES. 


857 


tablespoon  molasses  to  every  quart  of  beans,  a quarter  of  a pound 
salt  pork  scored  on  the  top,  and  a little  salt  and  pepper.  Fill  the 
pot  with  the  water  from  beans,  and  let  it  stand  in  the  oven  where  it 
will  bake  very  slowly  for  twelve  hours.  As  the  water  dries  out,  add 
more.  The  beans  must  be  light  brown  when  done. 

Beets. leaves,  wasli  clean,  being  careful  not  to  break 
off  the  little  fibers  or  rootlets,  as  the  juices  would  thereby  escape  and 
they  would  lose  their  color ; boil  in  plenty  of  water  without  salt,  if 
young,  two  hours,  if  old,  four  or  five  hours,  or  till  one  will  yield  to 
pressure,  never  try  with  a fork ; take  out,  drop  in  a pan  of  cold  water 
and  slip  off  the  skin  with  the  hands  ; slice  those  needed  for  imme- 
diate use,  place  in  a dish,  add  salt,  ])epper,  butter,  and  if  not  ver} 
sweet  a teaspoon  sugar,  set  over  boiling  water  to  heat  thoroughly, 
and  serve  hot  with  or  without  vinegar;  for  Pickled  put  those 

which  remain  into  a stone  jar  whole,  cover  with  vinegar,  keep  in  a 
cool  place,  take  out  as  wanted,  slice  and  serve.  A few  pieces  of 
horseradish  put  into  the  jar  will  prevent  a white  scum  on  the  vine- 
gar. For  Baked  Beets.,  bake  in  skins  till  tender,  turning  often  to 
bake  evenly,  testing  as  above;  or  roast  in  hot  ashes,  peel,  dress  and 
serve  as  above.  For  Marhled  Beets,  after  they  are  boiled  and  skin- 
ned, mash  together  with  boiled  potatoes,  and  season  to  taste  with 
salt;  add  a large  piece  of  butter  (do  not  use  any  milk) ; place  in  a 
dish,  make  a hole  in  center  in  which  put  in  another  piece  of  but- 
ter ; sprinkle  with  pepper  and  serve  at  once.  This  is  a New  Eng- 
land dish,  and  very  delicious  for  harvest  time,  when  beets  are  young 
and  sweet.  For  Beet  Pudding,  wash,  boil  and  skin  white  or  red 
beets ; slice  and  cut  in  small  squares  like  a grain  of  corn,  to  one 
pint  add  one  pint  milk,  two  eggs  well  beaten,  a little  salt  and  pepper ; 
put  in  buttered  baking  dish  and  bake  till  custard  is  firm,  fifteen  or 
twenty  minutes.  Beets  are  especially  valuable  as  an  article  of  food 
on  account  of  the  sugar  they  contain.  When  they  are  used  for  a 
salad  such  as  the  Russian,  after  skinning  cut  in  slices  an  inch 
thick,  take  the  small  apple  corer,  cut  out  the  cylinder  shaped  pieces 
and  prepare  with  the  other  vegetables.  For  Beet  Greens,  wash 
young  beets  very  clean,  cut  off  tips  of  leaves,  looking  over  carefully 
to  see  that  r\o  bugs  or  worms  remain,  but  do  not  separate  roots  from 
leaves ; fill  kettle  half  full  of  salted  boiling  water,  tablespoon  to  two 
^quarts,  add  beets,  boil  rapidly  from  half  to  three-quarters  of  an 
hour ; take  out  and  drain  in  colander,  pressing  down  with  a large 
spoon,  so  as  to  get  out  all  the  water.  Dish  and  dress  with  butter^ 
pepper,  and  salt  if  needed.  Serve  very  quickly  as  they  cool  so  soon. 
They  can  be  dressed  at  table  with  vinegar  and  are  very  delicious. 
Cook  Brussels  Sprouts  in  same  way,  some  adding  a pinch  of  soda. 

Broccoli. — Strip  off  dead  outside  leaves,  and  cut  inside  ones  ofll 
level  with  the  flower ; cut  off  stalk  close  at  bottom,  and  put  brocoli 
into  cold  salt  and  water,  with  heads  downwards.  When  they  have 


858 


VEGEa 


remained  in  this  for  about  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  and  are  per- 
fectly free  from  insects,  put  them  into  a saucepan  hoiling  salted 
water,  and  keep  boiling  quickly  over  a brisk  hre,  with  the  saucepan 
uncovered.  Take  up  moment  they  are  done  ; drain  well,  and  serve 
with  a tureen  of  melted  butter,  a little  of  which  should  be  poured 
over  the  brocoli.  If  left  in  the  water  after  it  is  done  it  will  break, 
its  color  will  be  spoiled,  and  its  crispness  gone. 

Boiled  Cabbage. — Wash,  take  off  decayed  leaves,  cut  in  rather 
small  pieces  and  put  in  boiling  salted  water;  do  not  have  kettle 
more  than  half  full  of  cabbage  and  keep  water  boiling  rapidly  all  the 
time  till  tender,  wiiich  can  Ibe  tested,  by  trying  the  thick  part  near- 
est the  stalk.  It  will  not  take  ov^er  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes  for 
new  cabbage  and  about  thirty  or  forty  for  old.  The  cause  of  the 
strong  odor  from  cooking  cabbage  is  from  cooking  too  long,  as  in 
that  case  the  oil  begins  to  escape  from  it.  The  flavor  is  also  injured 
by  too  long  cooking  as  after  vegetables  of  all  kinds  are  tender  the 
water  begins  to  penetrate  them  and  they  should  be  served  at  once. 
Drain  and  serve  by  itself  or  with  a Vinegar,  Draivn  Butter,  Cream 
or  White  Sauce  poured  over  it.  Some  only  cut  in  halves  or  quar- 
ters and  tie  in  netting  or  thin  muslin.  For  Creained  Cabbage^  slice 
as  for  cold  slaw  and  stew  in  a covered  saucepan  till  tender ; drain  it, 
return  to  saucepan,  add  a gill  or  more  of  rich  cream,  tablespoon  but- 
ter, pepper  and  salt  to  taste  ; let  simmer  two  or  three  minutes,  then 
serve.  Milk  may  be  used  by  adding  a little  more  butter;  or  have  a 
deep  spider  hot,  put  in  sliced  cabbage,  pour  quickly  over  it  a pint  of 
boiling  water,  just  enough  to  keep  from  burning,  cover  close  and 
cook  till  tender,  and  add  half  pint  rich  milk  without  draining  the 
cabbage.  When  the  milk  boils,  stir  in  teaspoon  flour  moistened 
with  little  milk,  season,  cook  a moment  and  serve ; or  add  when 
tender,  teaspoon  or  so  of  sugar  and  only  cream  enough  to  moisten 
nicely  and  just  before  taking  from  fire  stir  in  a little  vinegar.  For 
DelicaM  Cabbage^  remove  all  defective  leaves,  quarter  and  cut  as 
for  coarse  slaw,  cover  well  with  cold  water,  and  let  remain  several 
hours  before  cooking,  then  drain  and  put  into  pot  with  enough  boil- 
ing water  to  cover;  boil  until  thoroughl}^  cooked,  add  salt  ten  or 
fifteen  minutes  before  removing  from  fire,  and  when  done,  take  up 
into  a colander,  press  out  water  ivell,  and  season  with  butter  aUd 
pepper.  This  is  a good  dish  to  serve  with  corned  meats,  but  should 
not  be  cooked  with  them ; if  preferred,  however,  it  ma}^  be  seasoned 
by  adding  some  of  the  liquor  and  fat  from  the  boiling  meat  to  cab- 
bage while  cooking.  For  Royal  cook  in  quarters  in  boil- 

ing salted  v/ater  with  a small  pinch  soda,  for  seven  minutes,  skim 
out  and  place  in  another  saucepan  of  boiling  water  ten  minutes, 
then  skim  out  into  first  saucepan  with  fresh  boiling  water  and  cook 
ten  minutes  or  till  tender;  drain  and  serve  on  slices  of  toast  dipped 
in  melted  butter  and  over  all  pour  a Cream  Dressing.  For  Fried 
Cabbage^  qVlXj  cabbage  very  fine,  on  a slaw  cutter,  if  possible;  salt 


VEGETABLES. 


859 


and  pepper,  stir  well,  and  let  stand  five  minutes.  Have  an  iron 
kettle  smoking  hot,  drop  one  tablespoon  lard  or  part  butter  and  lard 
into  it,  then  the  cabbage,  stirring  briskly  until  quite  tender  ; send  to 
table  immediately.  One  half  cup  sweet  cream,  and  three  table- 
spoons vinegar — the  vinegar  added  after  the  cream  has  been  well 
stirred  in  and  after  taken  from  stove,  is  an  agreeable  change.  When 
properly  done  an  invalid  can  eat  it  without  injury,  and  there  is  no 
oftensive  odor  from  cooking.  For  lleAAelhera  Cabbage, 
small,  solid  heads  of  hard  red  cabbage  ; divide  in  halves  from  crown 
to  stem  ; lay  the  split  side  down,  and  cut  downwards  in  thin  slices. 
The  cabbage  will  then  be  in  narrow  strips  or  'shreds.  Put  into  a 
saucepan  a tablespoon  of  clean  urippings,  butter  or  an}^  nice  fat: 
when  fat  is  hot,  put  in  cabbage  a teaspoon  salt,  three  tablespoons 
vinegar  (if  latter  is  very  strong,  use  but  two),  and  one  onion,  in 
which  three  or  four  cloves  have  been  stuck,  buried  in  the  middle ; 
boil  two  hours  and  a half;  if  it  becomes  too  dry  and  is  in  danger  of 
scorching,  add  a very  little  water.  This  is  very  nice.  For  Spiced 
Cabbage,  Uiin  and  wash  a medium-sized  head  and  shave  in  rather 
thin  slices,  put  in  a saucepan  heaping  tablespoon  of  cold  drippings 
or  butter,  the  same  of  sugar,  half  cup  vinegar,  teaspoon  each  whole 
cloves,  pepper-corns  and  salt;  put  in  cabbage,  cover  with  lid  and 
cook  very  slowly  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour  or  till  tender,  on  back 
of  stove.  Every  fifteen  minutes  stir  cabbage  so  as  to  put  uncooked 
parts  to  the  bottom.  Serve  on  platter  with  a piece  of  Braised  Mea,t  on 
it,  moistening  the  cabbage  with  a little  of  the  broth  from  the  cooked 
meat.  For  Southern  Cabbage,  chop  or  slice  one  medium-sized  cab- 
bage fine,  put  it  in  stewpan  with  boiling  water  to  well  cover  it,  and 
boil  fifteen  minutes  ; drain  off  all  water,  and  add  dressing  made  as 
follows  : tialf  teacup  vinegar,  two-thirds  as  much  sugar,  salt,  pep- 
per, half  teaspoon  mustard,  and  two  teaspoons  salad  oil ; when  this 
is  boiling  hot,  add  one  teacup  cream,  and  one  egg  stirred  together ; 
mix  thoroughly  and  immediately  with  the  cabbage,  and  cook  a 
moment.  Serve  hot.  For  Stuffed  Cabbage,  take  a large,  fresh 
cabbage  and  cut  out  heart;  fill  vacancy  with  stuffing  made  of  cooked 
chicken  or  veal,  chopped  very  fine  and  highly  seasoned  and  rolled 
into  balls  with  yolk  of  egg.  Then  tie  cabbage  firmly  together  (some 
tie  a cloth  around  it),  and  boil  in  a covered  kettle  two  hours.  This 
is  a delicious  dish  and  is  useful  in  using  up  cold  meats.  Or  scald 
for  ten  minutes,  make  cavity  in  center,  by  the  stalk,  and  fill  it  be- 
tween every  leaf  v.dth  any  forcemeat ; bind  it  so  that  it  does  not  let 
the  stuffing  drop  out,  and  put  it  in  a pan  with  some  gravy,  a slice  of 
bacon,  a stick  of  thyme,  a bay  leaf,  and  two  carrots.  Stew  all  gently 
together,  and  when  done,  untie  the  string,  and  serve  with  the 
strained  gravy  round  it.  For  Cabbage  Pudding,  boil  a firm,  white 
cabbage  fifteen  minutes,  changing  water  then  for  more  from  the 
boiling  tea-kettle ; when  tender,  drain  and  set  aside  till  perfectly 
cold ; chop  fine,  and  add  two  beaten  eggs,  a tablespoon  of  butter. 


860 


VEGETABLES. 


three  of  very  rich  milk  or  cream,  pepper  and  salt.  Stir  all  well 
together,  and  bake  in  a buttered  pudding  dish  until  brown ; serve 
hot.  This  dish  is  digestible  and  palatable,  much  resembling  cauli- 
flower. For  Brussels  Sprouts,  soak  in  water  a short  time,  and 
wash  clean,  boil  in  salted  water  and  when  done,  strain  and  fry  in  a 
tablespoon  butter,  in  whicn  has  been  browned  a tablespoon  flour  and 
a small  onion  cut  fine ; add  pepper  and  salt  to  taste. 

Steived  Carrots. — Take  any  quantity  desired,  divide  the  carrots 
lengthwise,  and  boil  until  perfectly  tender,  which  will  require  from 
one  to  two  hours.  When  done,  have  ready  a saucepan  with  one  or 
two  tablespoons  butter,  and  small  cup  cream ; slice  the  carrots  very 
thin,  or  cut  in  dice  and  put  in  the  saucepan ; add  salt  and  pepper, 
and  let  stew  ten  or  fifteen  minutes,  stirring  gently  once  or  twice,  and 
serve  in  a vegetable  dish.  Some  add  more  milk  or  cream ; when 
done,  skim  out  carrots,  and  to  the  cream  add  a little  flour  thicken- 
ing, or  the  beaten  yolks  of  one  or  two  eggs.  When  it  boils,  pour 
over  the  carrots  and  serve.  Carrots  may  also  be  boiled  with  meat 
like  turnips  or  parsnips  and  are  especially  nice  with  corned  beef, 
but  they  take  longer  to  cook  than  either.  For  Glazed  Carrots.,  peel 
some  young  carrots  all  to  the  same  size  and  shape  ; parboil  in  boil- 
ing water ; drain,  and  warm  in  saucepan  with  butter,  a pinch  of 
powdered  sugar  and  little  stock ; when  boiled,  increase  fire,  and 
cook  until  sauce  is  reduced  to  a glaze.  For  Carrot  Compote.,  scrape 
and  slice  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  stew  in  water  till  tender,  drain, 
weigh  and  to  each  pound  carrots  allow  pound  sugar  and  cup  cider 
vinegar ; cook  all  together  and  flavor  with  orange  peel  cut  very  thin, 
cinnamon  and  cloves.  For  Wa^^rmed.  Over  Carrots^  melt  in  a spider 
a piece  of  butter  half  the  size  of  an  egg.  Slice  in  boiled  carrots,  and 
season  with  pepper  and  salt.  Just  before  taking  up  add  half  cup  of 
cream  or  milk,  or  omit  either  and  serve  them  nicely  browned.  They 
are  liked  by  some  better  than  when  first  cooked.  Parsnips  can  be 
prepared  in  the  same  way. 

Boiled  Caulidower. — To  each  two  quarts  water  allow  heaping 
tablespoon  salt ; choose  close  and  white  cauliflower,  trim  off  decayed 
outside  leaves,  and  cut  stock  ofl*  flat  at  bottom  ; open  flower  a little 
in  places  to  remove  insects  which  generally  are  found  about  the 
stalk,  and  let  cauliflowers  lie  with  heads  downward  in  salt  and 
water  for  two  hours  previous  to  dressing  them  which  will  effectually 
draw  out  all  vermin.  Then  put  in  boiling  water,  adding  salt  in 
above  proportion,  and  boil  briskly  for  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes 
over  a good  fire,  keeping  saucepan  uncovered.  Water  should  be 
well  skimmed,  and  when  caulifloAvers  are  tender,  take  up,  drain, 
and  if  large  enough,  place  upright  in  dish ; serve  with  plain  melted 
butter,  a little  of  which  may  be  poured  over  the  flowers,  or  a White 
Sauce  may  be  used  made  as  follows  : Put  butter  size  of  an  egg  into 
saucepan,  and  Avhen  it  bubbles  stir  in  a scant  half  teacup  flour ; stir 


VEGETABLES. 


861 


well  with  an  egg-whisk  until  cooked  ; then  add  two  teacups  of  thin 
cream,  some  pepper  and  salt.  Stir  it  over  the  fire  until  perfectly 
smooth.  Pour  the  sauce  over  the  cauliflower  and  serve.  Many  let 
the  cauliflower  simmer  in  the-sauce  a few  moments 
before  serving.  Cauliflower  is  delicious  served  as 
a garnish  around  spring  chicken,  or  with  fried 
sweet-breads,  when  the  White  Sauce  should  be  Boiled  caunaower. 
poured  over  both.  In  this  case  it  should  be  made  by  adding  the 
cream,  flour,  and  seasoning  to  the  little  grease  (half  a teaspoon) 
that  is  left  after  frying  the  chickens  or  sweet-b'reads.  For  Baked 
Cauliflower^  prepare  as  above  and  parboil  five  minutes,  cut 
into  pieces  and  put  into  a pie  dish  ; add  a little  milk,  season  with 
salt,  pepper,  and  butter,  cover  with  dry  grated  cheese,  and  bake. 
For  Scalloped  Caulidower^  boil  till  tender,  drain  well  and  cut  in 
small  pieces  ; put  in  layers  with  fine  chopped  egg  and  this  dressing ; 
half  pint  milk  thickened  over  boiling  water,  with  two  tablespoons 
flour  and  seasoned  with  two  teaspoons  salt ; one  of  white  pepper 
and  two  tablespoons  butter;  put  grated  bread  over  the  top,  dot  it 
with  small  bits  of  butter,  and  place  it  in  the  oven  to  heat  thoroughly 
and  brown.  Serve  in  same  dish  in  which  it  w^as  baked.  This  is  a 
good  way  to  use  common  heads.  A nicer  way  is  to  boil  them,  then 
place  them  whole  in  a buttered  dish  with  stems  down.  Make  sauce 
with  cup  bread-crumbs  beaten  to  froth  with  two  tablespoons  melted 
butter  and  three  of  cream  or  milk,  one  well-beaten  egg  and  salt  and 
pepper  to  taste.  Pour  this  over  the  cauliflower,  cover  dish  tightly 
and  bake  six  minutes  in  a quick  oven,  browning  them  nicely.  Serve 
as  above.  Or  With  Mushrooms^  put  in  a frying-pan,  in  hot  fat  a 
few  small  mushrooms  and  part  of  a cauliflower  broken  into  sprigs. 
Sprinkle  over  them  some  grated  cheese,  and  baste  the  whole  well 
from  time  to  time  with  the  hot  fat.  For  Gauliilower  Salad,  after 
boiling,  let  cool  and  dress  with  Mayonnaise  or  any  dressing  preferred. 

Stewed  Celery. — Cut  tender,  white  outside  stalks  of  celery  into 
three  inch  lengths  and  boil  them  for  ten  minutes  in  salted  water. 
Then  throw  away  the  water  and  fill  up  instead  with  clear  strained 
soup  stock,  add  minced  onion  and  parsley.  Boil  until  the  celery  is 
tender,  add  piece  of  butter  softened  and  stirred  up  with  flour,  and 
shake  the  stew  until  thickened.  Dish  pieces  in  straight  order  and 
pour  sauce  over  them.  For  Stewed  Endive,  cook  as  above  in  milk 
or  cream,  but  do  not  season  very  highly. 

Boiled  Corn. — Put  well-cleaned  ears  in  salted  hoiling  water, 
boil  three  quarters  of  an  hour,  or  boil  in  the  inside  husk  for  the 
same  time,  remove  husks  and  serve  immediately.  Corn  thoroughly 
cooked  is  a wholesome  dish.  Or  a better  way  is  to  try  Steamed 
Corn,  put  in  steamer  and  cook  an  hour ; it  is  sweeter  than  if  boiled 


862 


VEGETABLES. 


in  water.  For  Fried  Corn^  cut  corn  from  cob ; put  in  frying-pan 
with  tablespoon  butter,  cover  and  cook  twenty-five  minutes,  stir- 
ring occasionally,  but  adding  no  water.  The  steam 
will  cook  it,  if  kept  covered.  Add  salt,  pepper 
and  a cup  of  cream  when  done.  For  Stewed 
Boiled  Corn.  Corn^  cut  with  a sharp  knife  through  the  center  of 

every  row  of  grains,  and  cut  off  the  outer  edge ; then  with  the  back  of 
the  blade  push  out  the  yellow  eye,  with  the  rich,  creamy  center  of  the 
grain,  leaving  the  hull  on  the  cob.  To  one  quart  of  this  add  half  a 
pint  rich  milk,  and  stew  until  cooked  in  a covered  tin  pail,  in  a ket- 
tle one-third  full  of  boiling  water ; then  add  salt,  white  pepper,  and 
two  or  three  ounces  butter ; allow  two  hours  for  cooking  ; it  seems  a 
long  time,  but  there  is  no  danger  of  burning,  and  it  requires  no 
more  attention  than  to  stir  itoccasioally  and  to  keep  good  the  sup- 
ply of  water.  If  drier  than  liked,  add  more  milk  or  cream.  Or, 
after  cutting  corn  from  the  cob,  boil  the  cobs  ten  or  fifteen  minutes 
and  take  out  and  put  corn  in  same  water ; when  tender,  add  a dress- 
ing of  milk,  butter,  pepper  and  salt,  and  just  before  serving,  stir  in 
beaten  eggs,  allowing  three  eggs  to  a dozen  ears  of  corn.  Or,  to 
three  pints  corn  add  three  tablespoons  butter,  pepper  and  salt,  and 
just  enough  water  to  cover  ; place  in  a skillet,  cover  and  cook  rather 
slowly  with  not  too  hot  a fire,  from  half  to  three-quarters  of  an  hour, 
stir  with  a spoon  often,  and  if  necessary  add  more  water,  for  the 
corn  must  not  brown  ; if  desired,  a few  moments  before  it  is  done, 
add  half  cup  sweet  cream  thickened  with  teaspoon  flour ; boil  well 
and  serve  with  roast  beef,  scalloped  tomatoes  and  mashed  potatoes. 
Some  stew  tomatoes,  and  just  before  serving  mix  them  with  the 
corn.  For  Corn  Omelet^  one  dozen  ears  of  corn,  three  eggs,  salt  to 
taste ; boil  corn,  cut  it  from  the  cob,  mix  with  the  eggs,  and  make 
in  small  omelets  and  fry.  For  Corn  Pie^  cut  corn  from  two  ears  of 
boiled  corn ; mix  gill  of  milk,  gradually,  with  tablespoon  flour. 
Beat  yolk  and  white  of  one  egg  separately,  and  add  with  tablespoon 
butter  and  teaspoon  sugar  to  the  flour  and  milk.  Season  and  bake 
twenty-five  minutes  in  a deep  pie  plate.  Nice  way  in  which  to  warm 
over  corn  left  from  dinner.  A most  delicious  dish  is  Corn  Pud^ 
ding,  draw  a sharp  knife  through  each  row  of  corn  lengthwise,  then 
scrape  out  the  pulp ; to  pint  of  corn  add  quart  milk,  three  eggs,  a 
little  suet,  sugar  to  taste,  and  a few  lumps  butter ; place  in  buttered 
pudding  dish,  stir  occasionally  until  thick,  and  bake  about  two  hours. 
Serve  as  a vegetable,  or  may  be  served  for  dessert.  In  serving  boiled 
corn  it  is  nice  to  place  a Corn  Doiley,  made  like  the  Fritter  Doiley 
(working  ears  of  corn  in  the  ends)  in  the  dish,  put  in  corn  and  cover 
with  ends. 

Dried  Corn. — For  a family  of  eight,  wash  a pint  of  corn  through 
one  water,  and  put  to  soak  overnight  in  clean  cold  water  (if  impos- 
sible to  soak  so  long,  place  over  a kettle  of  hot  water  for  tv/o  or 
three  hours  ;)  when  softened,  cook  half  an  hour  in  water  in  which  it 
was  soaked,  adding  more  if  needed,  and  as  soon  as  boiling,  two 


enables. 


863 


tablespoons  butter,  one  of  flour,  and  a little  salt  and  pepper.  An- 
other good  way  to  finish  is  the  following  : Take  yolk  of  egg,  table- 
spoon milk,  pinch  salt,  thicken  with  flour  quite  stiff  so  as  to  take 
out  with  a teaspoon,  and  drop  in  little  dumplings  not  larger  than  an 
acorn ; cover  tightly  and  cook  five  or  ten  minutes ; have  enough 
water  in  kettle  before  adding  dumplings,  as  cover  should  not  be  re- 
moved until  dumplings  are  done.  Some  soak  in  milk  adding  more 
when  put  on  to  cook,  but  when  this  is  done,  place  in  custard  kettle, 
as  milk  burns  easily,  and  cook  an  hour  or  so.  ,For  Hulled  CoTn_ 
when  prepared  as  directed  in  Winter  Vegetables,  or  as  may  be  bought, 
cook  till  tender,  adding  a little  water  if  needed,  season  with  salt  and  a 
tablespoon  or  two  of  cream  added  is  an  addition.  Serve  with  cream 
and  sugar,  or  eat  as  a vegetable  with  butter.  It  is  delicious  warmed 
over  in  a little  butter,  browning  nicely. 

Fried  Cucumbers.— and  lay  in  ice  water  half  an  hour,  cut 
lengthwise  in  half-inch  slices,  dredge  with  flour,  single-bread  and 
fry  a delicate  brown.  For  Stewed  Cucumbers.,  cut  in  quarter-inch 
slices,  pick  out  seeds,  stew,  and  season  like  green  pease ; or  With 
Onions.,  pare  and  slice  six  cucumbers,  take  out  seeds,  and  cut  three 
medium-sized  onions  into  thin  slices  ; put  both  into  stew'pan,  with 
pint  White  Stock,  and  let  boil  for  half  an  hour.  Beat  up  yolks  of 
two  eggs,  stir  these  into  the  sauce ; add  cayenne,  salt,  and  grated 
nutmeg;  brjng  to  the  point  of  boiling  and  serve.  Do  not  allow  the 
sauce  to  boil,  or  it  will  curdle.  This  is  a favorite  dish  with  lamb  or 
mutton  chops  and  especially  with  Baked  Steak.,  prepare  round 
steak  as  for  frying  and  then  place  in  baking  pan  with  a little  boil- 
ing water,  adding  more  as  needed  and  just  before  serving  add  bits  of 
butter  and  season  to  taste.  This  is  nice  where  there  is  a quantity  of 
steak  to  cook  or  the  top  of  the  stove  is  in  use. 

Dandelions. — They  are  fit  for  use  until  they  blossom.  Gut  off 
the  leaves,  pick  over  carefully,  wash  in  several  waters,  parboil  in 
boiling  water  an  hour,  some  using  pinch  of  soda,  drain  well,  add 
salted  boiling  water,  and  boil  two  hours ; when  done,  turn  into  a 
colander  and  drain,  season  with  butter,  and  more  salt  if  needed,  and 
cut  with  a knife ; or  after  parboiling  with  soda  as  above  boil  with  a 
piece  of  salt  pork,  omitting  butter  in  dressing.  Potatoes  may  be 
added  about  an  hour  before  greens  are  done.  Different  greens  are 
cooked  as  above  or  in  different  ways  which  are  given.  Cowslips 
make  a fair  substitute  for  dandelions  but  are  rather  insipid.  Mus- 
tard is  excellent,  when  tender,  and  should  be  cooked  as  above. 
Greens  can  be  had  through  the  season  by  sowing  spinach,  beets,  and 
Swiss  chard  thickly  in  the  garden  beds,  in  a rich  soil.  They  should 
be  sown  at  intervals  of  two  weeks,  a few  at  a time.  The  Swiss  chard 
has  quite  large  leaves  and  stalks,  but  they  are  crisp  and  tender  if 
grown  well.  It  lacks  the  delicious  sweetness  of  the  beet,  but  will  be 
liked  by  any  one  fond  of  greens.  Young  beets  are  excellent  eating, 
top  and  root.  Where  one  has  a garden  always  sow  the  seed  thickly, 


864 


VEGETABLES. 


and  thin  out  when  the  plants  become  of  sufficient  size,  using  for 
greens,  leaving  those  for  winter  use  to  mature  in  the  rows.  Spinach 
is  a favorite  old  plant,  and  many  families  would  not  think  of  being 
without  it.  Lettuce  is  also  good  for  greens,  being  very  tender  and 
rich  in  flavor.  If  dandelion  seed  is  sown  in  the  garden,  in  good 
soil,  and  care  is  given  the  plants,  one  will  be  surprised  to  see  how 
great  an  improvement  cultivation  makes  in  it.  The  leaves  will  be 
larger  and  thicker,  and  as  rich  soil  induces  a vigorous  growth  and 
a quick  one,  they  will  be  much  crisper  and  more  tender  than  those 
gathered  from  roadside  or  meadow. 

Fried  Egg  Plant. — Peel  and  cut  the  purple  kind,  in  slices, 
sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  let  drain  on  a tipped  plate  for 
three-quarters  of  an  hour ; make  a light  batter  with  one  egg,  flour  and 
a little  water,  dip  the  slices  into  it  and  fry  in  butter  or  lard ; or  dip  in 
beaten  egg,  then  in  cracker-crumbs  ; some  parboil  the  egg  plant  in 
salted  water  after  slicing,  drain  and  finish  as  above  ; or  for  Baked  Egg 
Plants  peel,  boil  till  done’  pour  off  water,  mash  fine,  add  butter  and 
salt  to  taste,  put  in  shallow  pudding  pan,  over  the  top  place  a thick 
layer  of  cracker-crumbs  and  bake  half  an  hour  in  moderate  oven. 
For  Egg  Plant  Cakes.,  peel  and  slice  one  or  two  medium-sized  egg 
plants,  put  on  in  cold  water,  boil  till  tender,  drain,  mash  fine,  season 
with  salt  and  pepper,  and  add  beaten  egg  and  tablespoon  flour ; fry 
in  little  cakes  in  butter  or  butter  and  lard  in  equal  parts.  Parsnips 
and  Salsify  or  Oyster-plant  may  be  cooked  in  same  way,  but  Oyster- 
plant  is  made  in  smaller  cakes  to  imitate  oysters. 

Boiled  Hominy. — Soak  quart  ground  hominy  overnight,  put  over 
fire  in  tin  pail,  set  in  boiling  water,  with  water  enough  to  cover, boil 
gently  for  five  hours,  as  it  can  not  be  hurried.  After  grains  begin 
to  soften  on  no  account  stir  it.  The  water  put  in  at  first  ought  to 
be  enough  to  finish  it,  but  if  it  proves  too  little,  add  more  carefully, 
as  too  much  makes  it  too  soft.  Salt  just  before  taking  from  the 
stove,  as  too  early  salting  makes  it  dark.  If  properly  done,  the 
grains  will  stand  out  snowy  and  well  done,  but  round  and  separate. 

Stewed  Horse  Radish. — Melt  a piece  of  butter  the  size  of  an 
egg,  stir  in  a tablespoon  of  flour,  add  a cup  and  a half  of  vinegar, 
and  a teaspoon  each  of  salt  and  sugar,  bring  to  a boil,  and  add  a 
pint  grated  horse  radish,  and  cook  ten  minutes,  stirring  constantl}'. 

Wilted  Lettuce. — Place  in  a vegetable  dish  lettuce  that  has 
been  very  carefully  picked  and  washed  each  leaf  by  itself,  to  remove 
all  insects.  Cut  across  dish  four  or  five  times  and  sprinkle  with 
salt.  Fry  a small  piece  of  fat  ham  until  brown,  cut  in  small  pieces ; 
when  very  hot  add  cup  of  good  vinegar,  and  pour  it  boiling  hot  over 
the  lettuce ; mix  it  well  with  a fork,  and  garnish  with  slices  of  hard- 
boiled  eggs.  Be  certain  to  have  the  fat  so  hot  that  when  vinegar  is 
poured  in,  it  will  boil  immediately.  Add  half  a cup  or  a cup  of 


VEGETABLES. 


865 


vinegar  according  to  strength  of  vinegar  and  quantity  of  lettuce. 
For  Stewed  Lettuce^  cook  as  spinach  or  any  green  vegetable,  and 
it  is  nice  to  use  half  and  half  with  the  former. 

Macaroni. — Macaroni  is  a food  of  very  high  nutritious  power, 
being  formed  chiefly  of  the  gluten,  the  most  valuable  part  of  the 
wheat  from  which  the  starch  has  been  removed.  Weight  for  weight, 
it  may  be  regarded  as  not  less  valuable  for  flesh-making  purposes 
in  the  animal  economy  than  beef  and  mutton.  For  Bc^ed  Macor 
roni^  take  about  three  ounces  macaroni  and  boil  till  tender  in  stew- 
pan  with  little  water ; take  pudding  dish  or  pan,  warm  a little  but- 
ter in  it,  and  put  in  layer  of  macaroni,  then  layer  of  cheese  grated 
or  cut  in  small  bits,  and  sprinkle  over  with  salt,  pepper  and  small 
pieces  of  butter,  then  add  another  layer  of  macaroni,  and  so  on,  fin- 
ishing off  with  cheese ; pour  on  rich  milk  or  cream  enough  to  just 
come  to  the  top  of.  the  ingredients  and  bake  from  one-half  to  three 
quarters  of  an  hour.  Some  add  a layer  of  bread  or  cracker-crumbs 
over  the  top.  For  Baked  Rice.,  cook  rice  as  follows  ; pick  and  wash 
a cup  of  rice,  put  in  a stew-kettle  with  three  cups  boiling  water,  and 
set  over  the  fire — the  boiling  water  makes  the  kernels  retain  their 
shape  better  than  when  cold  water  is  used.  When  done  put  a layer 
of  rice,  cheese,  etc.,  alternately  as  above,  and  bake  in  same  way. 
For  Boiled  Macaroni^  pour  pint  boiling  water  over  five  ounces 
macaroni,  let  stand  half  an  hour,  drain  and  put  in  custard-kettle 
with  boiling  milk  or  milk  and  water  to  cover,  cook  till  tender, 
drain,  add  a tablespoon  butter,  teacup  cream,  season  with  salt 
and  pepper,  when  hot  dish,  grate  cheese  over  top  and  serve ; or 
take  spaghetti  or  thread  macaroni.  Do  not  wash.  Have  sauce- 
pan on  fire  half  full  of  boiling  water,  with  a heaping  tablespoon 
of  salt,  add  macaroni  and  boil  till  tender,  about  ten  minutes 
drain  and  cover  with  plenty  of  cold  water.  Let  stand  till  cold, 
drain,  dress  with  either  some  White,  Brown  or  Tomato  Sauce,  re- 
heat and  serve  ; or  for  Triple  Macaroni.,  dress  with  a cup  of  each  of 
the  sauces  and  a cup  of  chopped  cold  ham,  chicken  or  tongue,  re- 
heat and  serve.  For  Macaroni  With  Tomatoes^  take  three  pints  of 
beef  soup,  clear,  and  put  one  pound  of  macaroni  in  it,  boil  fifteen 
minutes,  with  a little  salt ; then  take  up  the  macaroni — which  should 
have  absorbed  nearly  all  the  liquid — and  put  it  on  a flat  plate,  and 
sprinkle  grated  cheese  over  it  thickly,  and  pour  over  all  plentifully 
a sauce  made  of  ton^atoes,  well  boiled,  strained,  and  seasoned  with 
salt  and  pepper,  and  serve ; or  boil  half  pound  macaroni  in  milk,  or 
water,  and  in  a separate  vessel  stew  quart  tomatoes ; chop  latter, 
add  two  well-beaten  eggs,  a tablespoon  butter,  and  salt  and  pepper 
to  taste.  Mix  with  the  macaroni,  and  bake.  For  Italian  Maca- 
roni., place  two  pounds  beef,  well  larded  with  strips  of  salt  pork,  and 
one  or  two  chopped  onions,  in  a covered  kettle  on  back  of  stove,  un- 
til it  throws  out  its  juice  and  is  a rich  brown ; add  a quart  tomatoes 
seasoned  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  allow  the  mixture  to  simmer  two 
55 


866 


VEGETABLES. 


or  three  hours.  Take  quantity  of  macaroni  desired  and  boil  in 
water  for  twenty  minutes,  after  which  put  one  layer  of  boiled  ma- 
caroni in  bottom  of  pudding  dish,  cover  with  some  of  above  mix- 
ture, then  a layer  of  grated  cheese,  and  so  on  in  layers  till  dish  is 
filled,  having  a layer  of  cheese  on  top ; place  in  oven  an  hour,  or  un- 
til it  is  a rich  brown.  Commence  early  in  morning  to  prepare  this. 

Boiled  Okra. — Put  young  and  tender  pods  of  long,  white  okra 
in  salted  boiling  water  in  a porcelain  or  tin-lined  saucepan  (as  iron 
discolors  it)  boil  half  an  hour,  take  off  stems,  and  serve  with  butter, 
pepper,  salt,  and  vinegar  if  preferred;  or ’for  Fried  Okra^  after  boil- 
ing, slice  in  rings,  season  with  butter,  dip  in  batter  and  fry ; season 
and  serve ; or  With  Tomatoes^  stew  an  equal  quantity  of  tomatoes, 
and  tender  sliced  okra,  and  one  or  two  sliced  green  peppers ; stew 
in  porcelain  kettle  forty  minutes,  season  with  butter,  pepper  and 
salt,  and  serve.  With  Ham^  wdiile  boiling  okra  as  above  fry  three 
thin  slices  of  ham  ; drain  okra,  add  ham  fat,  heat  a moment,  put  in 
gill  cream  or  rich  milk  and  serve  garnishing  with  the  slices  of  ham ; 
or  for  an  Okra  Medley^  to  the  fried  ham,  cut  in  diamond-shaped 
pieces,  add  the  tomatoes,  okra,  green  peppers  and  half  pint  each 
grated  corn  and  lima  beans,  adding  a little  water  if  needed ; stew  till 
tender,  season  with  salt  and  butter,  adding  gill  cream  and  serve  hot. 
Okra,  when  fresh,  has  a juicy  slippery  appearance,  not  liked  by 
many,  but  it  may  be  dried,  partially  or  entirely,  by  slicing  the  pods, 
and  spreading  on  plates  to  dry ; or  string  them,  dry  and  slice  before 
using.  Never  dry,  or  cook,  in  iron. 

Baked  Onions. — The  large  Spanish  or  Bermuda  onions  are  best 
for  this  purpose.  Wash  outside  clean,  put  into  a saucepan  with 
slightly  salted  water,  and  boil  an  hour,  replenishing  the  water  with 
more  (boiling  hot)  as  it  boils  away.  Then  turn  off  water ; take  out 
onions  and  lay  upon  a cloth  that  all  moisture  maybe  absorbed;  roll 
each  in  a piece  of  buttered  tissue-paper,  twisting  it  at  the  top  to 
keep  it  closed,  and  bake  in  a slow  oven  nearly  an  hour,  or  until 
tender  all  through.  Peel,  put  in  a deep  dish,  and  browm  slightly, 
basting  freely  with  butter;  this  will  take  fifteen  minutes  more. 
Season  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  pour  melted  butter  over  the  top. 
Wash  and  peel  any  large  onions  and  parboil  as  above,  changing 
water  once  and  adding  a little  milk  with  last  water ; when  just  ten- 
der, place  in  baking  dish  or  jar,  putting  a little  salt,  white  pepper, 
and  butter  on  each,  with  a little  of  the  water  in  which  they  were 
cooked  in  the  pan ; brown  in  oven  fifteen  minutes  and  serve.  For 
Boiled  Onions.,  wash,  peel,  boil  ten  minutes,  pour  off  this  water, 
again  add  boiling  water,  boil  a few  minutes  and  drain  a second  time ; 
pour  on  boiling  water,  add  salt  and  boil  for  one  hour ; place  in  a 
colander,  turn  a saucer  over  them,  and  press  firmly  to  drain  out  all 
water ; place  in  a dish  and  add  butter  and  pepper.  Or,  about  half 
an  hour  before  they  are  done,  turn  a pint  of  milk  into  the  water  in 


VEGETABLES. 


867 


which  they  are  boiling,  or  first  pour  off  part  of  the  water  and,  when 
tender,  season  as  above.  Old  onions  require  two  hours  to  boil.  For 
Creamed  Onions^  boil  as  above  till  tender,  drain,  return  to  sauce- 
pan'ar-5  cover  with  a White  Sauce  or  a Cream  Dressing,  adding  a 
little  minced  parsley,  if  wished ; when  hot,  serve. 

Fried  Onions.  Slice,  cook  ten  minutes  in  boiling  water,  drain, 
add  boiling  water,  cook  ten  minutes  more,  drain,  and  repeat  again, 
then  drain,  fry  in  butter  or  beef  drippings,  stir  often,  season,  and 
serve  hot;  or  With  Vinegar  add  half  cup  of  latter  just  before  dish- 
ing, and  when  it  boils,  serve.  For  a very  elaborate  dish  try  StutFed 
Onions^  peel  eight  or  ten  and  parboil  fifteen  minutes,  drain  and  take 
out  about  half  the  insides ; chop  these  and  mix  with  them  gill  each 
sausage  meat  and  bread-crumbs,  an  egg,  and  a good  pinch  white  pep- 
per, and  a little  salt . Stuff  onions  with  mixture  and  heap  it  a little 
on  top  to  use  up  surplus  if  any.  Place  in  a deep  pan  that  will  go  in 
steamer  and  let  steam  about  an  hour  and  a half.  Then  brown  in  oven 
with  cup  of  gravy  poured  in  pan.  When  not  convenient  to  steam  they 
can  be  simmered  in  gravy  in  oven  if  kept  covered  with  a greased 
eheet  of  paper.  Any  kind  of  minced  cold  meat,  or  part  raw  and 
part  cooked  can  be  used.  For  Onion  Omelet.,  mash  eight  medium* 
sized  onions  boiled  quite  done,  and  season  with  pepper,  salt,  table' 
spoon  butter,  gill  sweet  milk,  and  two  or  three  eggs.  Bake  as  di^ 
rected  for  Baked  Omelet,  or  simply  bake  in  oven  eight  minutes.  Foi 
Onion  Pudding.,  add  a cup  bread-crumbs  soaked  in  little  milk  to 
above  and  use  chopped  raw  onions,  baking  in  pudding  dish.  With 
Beans.,  fry  three  large  onions,  chopped,  till  brown  and  tender, 
sprinkle  with  little  flour,  add  gill  any  gravy,  season  and  add  a pint 
of  dried  beans  cooked  till  quite  dry,  stir  well  together  and  serve  hot. 

Baked  Parsnips. — Put  four  thin  slices  fat  pork  in  a kettle  with 
two  quarts  cold  water,  wash  and  scrape  parsnips,  and  if  large  halve 
or  quarter,  and  as  soon  as  water  boils  place  in  kettle,  boil  about  half 
an  hour,  remove  meat,^  parsnips,  and  gravy  to  a dripping  paiu 
sprinkle  with  a little  white  sugar,  and  bake  in  oven  a quarter  of  an 
hour,  or  until  they  are  a light  brown,  and  the  water  is  all  fried  out. 
Add  a few  potatoes  if  liked.  ^ For  Fried  Parsnips.,  boil  till  tender 
or  take  any  left  from  first  recipe,  and  fry  in  a hot  skillet,  with  but- 
ter, ham  fat  or  beef  drippings ; it  is  better  to  dip  each  slice  in  beaten 
egg  or  batter  before  frying,  or  some  roll  in  flour,  seasoned  with  salt 
and  pepper,  or  single-bread  and  fry  like  fritters.  Parsnips  are  good 
in  March  or  April,  and  make  an  excellent  seasoning  for  soups. 
Stewed  Parsnips.,  wash,  scrape,  and  slice  about  half  an  inch  thick ; 
have  frying-pan  prepared  with  half  pint  hot  water  and  tablespoon 
butter,  add  parsnips,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  cover  closely, 
and  stew  until  water  is  cooked  away,  stirring  occasionally  to  pre- 
vent burning.  When  done,  parsnips  will  be  a creamy,  light  brown 
color.  Adding  two  tablespoons  sugar  to  above  makes  them  much 


868 


VEGETABLES. 


more  delicious.  For  Parsnip  Cake^  boil  till  tender,  mash,  season 
and  fry  in  one  large  cake  in  frying-pan,  or  add  yolks  of  eggs,  little 
flout  or  cracker-dust  and  fry  in  small  cakes. 

Green  Pease. — Wash  lightly  two  quarts  shelled  pease,  put  into 
boiling  water  enough  to  cover,  boil  forty  minutes,  add  pepper, 
salt^  and  more  hot  water  if  needed  to  prevent  burning,  and  two 
tablespoons  butter  rubbed  into  two  of  flour,  and  teaspoon  sugar ; 
stir  well,  adding  tablespoon  minced  parsley  if  liked,  boil  five  minutes 
and  serve.  If  pods  are  clean  and  fresh,  boil  first  in  water  to  give 
flavor,  skim  out  and  put  in  pease.  When  desirous  to  preserve  color, 
cook  till  tender,  then  drain,  cover  with  cold  salted  water  till  ready 
to  use,  reheat,  season  and  dress  as  above  or  with  cream,  etc.  Can- 
ned pease  should  be^rinsed  before  cooking.  Y or  Creamed  P ease., 
Put  two  or  three  pints  of  young  green  pease  into  a saucepan  of  boil- 
ing water ; when  nearly  done  and  tender,  drain  in  a colander,  quite 
dry,  melt  two  ounces  of  butter  in  a clean  stewpan,  thicken  evenly 
with  a little  flour,  shake  it  over  the  fire,  but'do  not  let  it  brown,  mix 
smoothly  with  a gill  of  cream,  add  half  a teaspoon  of  white  sugar, 
bring  to  a boil,  pour  in  the  pease,  keep  moving  for  two  minutes  un- 
til well  heated,  and  serve  hot.  The  sweet  pods  of  young  pease  are 
made  by  the  Germans  into  a palatable  dish  by  simply  stewing  with 
a little  butter  and  savory  herbs.  With  Vegetables.,  cut  up  an  onion 
and  head  of  lettuce  and  add  to  quart  shelled  pease  with  very  little 
water,  cook  till  tender,  add  beaten  egg  and  half  teaspoon  sugar  and 
serve.  For  Dried  Pease,  soak  overnight,  boil  two  or  three  hours, 
or  till  tender,  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  butter  and  serve ; or  for 
Baked  Dried  Pease,  soak,  parboil  and  finish  as  Baked  Beans. 
For  Pease  Pudding,  soak  pint  split  pease  overnight,  tie  loosely  in 
a clean  cloth,  leaving  a little  room  for  them  to  swell,  and  put  on  to 
boil  in  cold  water,  allowing  two  and  a half  hours  after  the  water  has 
commenced  to  boil.  When  tender,  take  up,  drain,  rub  through 
a colander ; add  two  tablespoons  butter,  two  eggs,  pepper,  and  salt ; 
beat  all  well  together  for  a few  minutes,  until  well  mixed ; then  tie 
them  tightly  in  a floured  cloth  ; boil  pudding  another  hour,  turn  on 
dish,  and  serve  very  hot.  This  pudding  should  ahvays  be  sent  to 
table  with  Boiled  Leg  of  Pork,  and  is  exceedingly  nice  accompani- 
ment to  Boiled  Beef. 

Fried  Pumpkin. — Take  pieces  of  a ripe  pumpkin,  slice  and 
cook  in  a small  quantity  of  water  till  tender ; remove  from  fire,  and 
mash  with  fork ; then  add  one  or  two  eggs,  according  to  amount  of 
pumpkin ; put  a little  butter  in  frying  pan,  put  in  pumpkin,  fry  a 
delicate  brown,  and  serve. 

Boiled  Bice. — Pick  over  carefully,  wash  in  warm  water,  rub 
between  hands,  and  then  rinse  several  times  in  cold  water  till  white. 
Put  teacup  in  a tin  pan  or  porcelain  kettle,  add  quart  boiling  water ; 


VEGETABLES. 


869 


boil  till  tender,  not  stirring,  but  taking  care  that  it  does  not  burn ; 
add  teaspoon  salt,  pour  into  a dish  and  send  to  table,  placing  a lump 
of  butter  in  the  center.  Cooked  thus  the  kernels  remain  whole;  or 
when  tender  add  tablespoon  butter,  gill  cream  or  rich  milk  and 
teaspoon  sugar.  With  a pint  rice  into  nearly  two  quarts 

of  cold  milk  an  hour  before  dinner  add  two  teaspoons  salt,  boil  very 
slov/ly  and  stir  often ; cook  on  back  part  of  stove  and  range  so  as  to 
avoid  burning.  A custard  kettle  is  best  for  it.  Or,  after  cooking, 
drain  carefully,  stir  in  two  well-beaten  eggs,  one  tablespoon  grated 
cheese,  half  a tablespoon  butter,  half  a teaspoon  salt ; bake  a few 
minutes  in  shallow  pans.  Some  always  soak  rice  an  hour  or  two 
before  cooking.  Stewed  Rice  is  the  easiest  way  to  prepare  it.  For 
Southern  Rice^  after  thoroughly  washing  and  rubbing  rice,  put  it  in 
salted  boiling  water  enough  to  cover  it  twice  over,  in  a custard  ket- 
tle or  tin  pail,  set  in  a kettle  of  boiling  water ; cover  whole  closely 
and  cook  for  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes,  until  grains  of  rice  are  full 
and  plump  but  not  “mushy  drain  off  all  water  possible,  and  re- 
place rice  in  kettle,  allowing  it  to  cook  for  half  an  hour  longer,  when 
it  is  ready  to  serve.  The  grains  should  be  full  and  soft,  and  each 
one  retain  its  form  perfectly.  During  last  half  hour  it  should  be 
occasionally  stirred  lightly  with  a fork,  and  it  is  improved  by  stand- 
ing on  back  of  stove  a few  minutes  before  serving.  Some  cook  thus 
in  an  ordinary  saucepan,  but  above  is  the  better  way.  This  is  a de- 
licious way  of  cooking  rice.  For  Rice  Pie-,  take  cold  remains  of 
roast  beef,  mince  very  fine,  and  put  into  a stewpan  with  quart  or 
more  water ; chop  fine  medium-sized  onion,  large*  potato,  and  large 
slice  fat  salt  pork ; put  these  with  salt,  pepper,  and  half  teaspoon 
allspice  into  saucepan  with  meat,  and  boil  steadily  till  gravy  is  re- 
duced two-thirds,  and  meat  tender ; while  this  is  cooking,  take  pint 
rice,  and  boil  in  plenty  of  water  with  salt  to  taste  ; when  grains  be- 
come tender,  drain  off  water  and  set  back  on  stove  to  steam,  first 
turning  it  carefully  over  from  bottom  of  pot  with  a spoon  to  allow 
steam  to  paas  through ; if  properly  cooked  the  grain  should  all 
stand  separately  though  perfectly  tender ; take  half  can  large  toma- 
toes, stewed  till  smooth  and  free  from  lumps ; stir  into  rice  large 
tablespoon  butter,  then  mix  in  tomatoes  and  hash  with  hard-boiled 
eggs  sliced  thin ; put  the  whole  into  large  baking  dish ; cut  two 
more  eggs  over  top,  pressing  gently  down  into  the  rice  to  prevent 
drying  up  ; sprinkle  with  white  pepper  and  bake  till  brown;  when 
done  set  dish  on  a large  fiat  dish  and  serve  hot  for  dinner.  Rice 
for  Cimdes,  pick,  wash,  and  soak  rice  in  plenty  of  cold  water ; then 
have  ready  a saucepan  boiling  water,  drop  rice  into  it,  and  keep 
boiling  quickly,  with  lid  uncovered,  until  it  is  tender,  but.  not  soft. 
Take  up,  drain,  and  put  on  a dish  before  fire  to  dry  ; do  not  handle 
it  much  with  a spoon,  but  shake  it  about  a little  with  two  forks,  that 
it  may  be  equally  dried,  and  strew  over  a little  salt.  ^ It  is  now 
ready  to  serve,  and  may  be  heaped  lightly  on  a dish  by  itself,  or  be 


870 


VEGETABLES. 


laid  round  dish  as  a border,  with  a curry  or  fricassee  in  center. 
Some  cooks  smooth  rice  with  back  of  a spoon,  and  then  brush  over 
with  yolk  of  an  egg,  and  set  it  in  oven  to  color ; but  rice  well  boiled, 
white,  dry,  and  with  every  grain  distinct,  is  by  far  the  more  prefer- 
able mode  of  dressing  it.  During  process  of  boiling,  rice  should  be 
attentively  watched,  that  it  be  not  overdone,  as,  if  this  is  the  case, 
it  will  have  a mashed  and  soft  appearance. 

Salsify  or  Vegetable  Oysters. — Wash  thoroughly,  scrape  off 
jkin  with  a knife,  cut  across  in  rather  thin  slices,  stew  until  tender 
in  water  enough  to  cover  them,  with  a piece  of  salt  codfish  for  seas- 
oning. Before  sending  to  table,  remove  codfish,  thicken  with  flour 
and  butter  rubbed  together,  toast  slices  of  bread,  put  in  dish,  and 
then  add  the  vegetable  oyster.  This  method  gives  the  flavor  of 
oysters  to  the  vegetable,  and  adds  much  to  its  delicacy.  Or,  after 
stewing  until  tender  in  clear  water,  mash,  season  with  pepper  and 
salt,  and  serve.  Or  for  Fried  Salsify ^^2ixhoil  after  scraping  off* out- 
side, cut  in  slices,  single-bread  and  fry  in  lard  ; or  some  let  stand  an 
hour  in  Tarragon  Vinegar  after  parboiling,  then  drain,  dip  in  batter 
and  fry.  Or  On  Toasf  slice  crosswise  five  or  six  good-sized  plants, 
cook  till  tender  in  water  enough  to  cover,  then  add  a pint  or  more 
of  rich  milk  mixed  with  one  tablespoon  flour,  season  with  butter, 
pepper  and  salt,  let  boil  up  and  pour  over  slices  of  toasted  bread ; 
or  for  Salsify  Soup,  add  three  pints  milk,  or  half  milk  and  water, 
season  and  serve  with  crackers  like  oyster  soup ; a little  codfish 
added  gives  more  of  oyster  flavor.  For  Scalloped  Salsify,  boil  as 
above,  cut  in  short  pieces,  make  half  as  much  sauce  with  cream, 
seasoning  with  anchovy  sauce  and  pepper ; toss  the  salsify  in  this 
for  a minute  and  then  put  it  in  a shallow  dish  that  has  been  but- 
tered and  covered  thickly  with  bread  crumbs.  Squeeze  a few  drops 
of  lemon  juice  over,  cover  with  crumbs  and  brown  in  oven ; or  the 
salsify  may  be  first  rubbed  through  colander.  For  Salsify  Cake,, 
make  same  as  Parsnip  Cake.  For  Salsify  Fritters,  scrape,  boil, 
drain  and  mash;  add  beaten  egg,  salt,  pepper,  four  tablespoons 
cream  and  flour  enough  to  make  batter  that  will  drop  from  end  of 
spoon.  Fry  as  directed  in  Fritters.  When  scraping  salsify  it  is 
well  to  drop  it  in  cold  water  in  which  there  is  a little  vinegar  as 
salsify  darkens  so  very  quickly  by  exposure  to  air. 

Spinach. — Look  over  spinach,  wash  in  three  or  four  waters, 
pinch  off*  leaves,  boil  in  saucepan  without  water  for  thirty  minutes, 
covering  closely,  drain  in  colander  and  cut  with  a 
knife  while  draining ; season  with  j>epper,  salt  and 
a little  butter,  boil  two  eggs  hard  and  slice  over 
the  top ; serve  hot.  Or  On  Toast,  when  boiled 
Spinach  on  Toast.  through  sieve,  then  put  in  frying-pan, 

with  a lump  of  butter,  season  with  pepper  and  salt.  When  hot, 
beat  in  two  or  three  tablespoons  rich  cream  and  teaspoon  sugar.  Put 


VEGETABLES. 


871 


thin  slices  of  buttered  toast  (one  for  each  person)  on  dish  and  on 
each  piece  put  a cupful  of  spinach  neatly  smoothed  in  shape,  with 
the  half  of  a hard  boiled  egg  on  the  top,  cut  part  uppermost  as  il- 
lustrated. Or  cook  like  Dandelions  with  salt  pork  or  meat.  Or  to 
better  preserve  color  cook  in  boiling  salted  water,  then  place  in  cold 
salted  water  and  when  wanted,  rub  through  puree  sieve  and  serve, 
dressed  with  any  sauce  or  seasoning  wished.  A Puree  of  Lettuce 
is  made  and  served  in  same  w^ay. 

Suynmer  Squash  or  Cymlings. — These  are  better  when  young 
and  tender,  which  may  be  known  by  pressing  the  nail  through  the 
skin ; do  not  peel  or  take  out  seeds,  but  boil  whole  or  cut  across  in 
thick  slices ; boil  in  as  little  water  as  possible  for  one-half  or  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour,  drain  well,  mash  and  set  on  back  part  of  stove 
or  range  to  dry  out  for  ten  or  fifteen  minutes,  stirring  occasionally  ; 
then  season  with  butter,  pepper,  salt  and  a little  cream.  If  old, 
peel,  cut  up,  take  out  seeds,  boil  and  season  as  above.  For  Fried 
Summer  Sqimsh^  take  a tender  one,  cut  in  slices,  skin  and  all,  dip  in 
water  then  in  flour,  or  single-bread  or  dip  in  batter, and  fry  in  hot  lard. 
These  taste  like  Egg-plant ; or  for  Squash  Patties^  steam  till  tender, 
take  up  and  mash  to  a pulp,  let  cool  a little,  season  with  pepper,  salt, 
butter  and  add  flour  until  stiff,  two  eggs  and  a little  sweet  milk; 
make  in  little  cakes  or  drop  in  hot  lard  and  fry  brown.  Ochra  pre- 
pared as  above  and  fried  is  splendid.  Lima  Beans  also,  only  leave 
out  the  flour  and  put  on  pie  pans  and  bake. 

Winter  Squash. — Cut  up,  take  out  inside,  pare  pieces  and 
stew  in  as  little  water  as  possible,  cook  an  hour,  mash  in  kettle,  and 
if  watery,  let  stand  on  the  fire  a few  moments,  stirring  until  dry ; 
season  with  butter,  cream,  salt  and  j)epper ; be  careful  that  it  does 
not  burn.  For  Baked  Squash.,  cut  in  pieces  without  paring,  bake 
and  just  before  done  season  with  bit  of  butter,  salt,  sugar  and  pepper, 
if  used,  on  each  piece,  and  serve  hot.  Or  they  may  be  cooked  in  a 
steamer,  dressed  as  in  second  recipe,  and  served  in  the  shell,  or 
scraped  out,  put  in  pan,  mashed,  and  then  seasoned  with  butter. 
Cream,  salt,  sugar  and  pepper,  made  hot  and  served.  As  shell  is 
often  so  very  hard  an  easy  way  is  to  put  a whole  squash  in  a steamer, 
after  washing  off  outside,  and  let  steam  half  an  hour.  That  softens 
the  shell  sufficiently,  and  it  can  be  cut  in  strips  about  the  width  of 
two  fingers.  Place  in  baking  pan,  finish  as  above  or  rub  with  a 
a brush  dipped  in  butter  and  sprinkle  with  a little  salt  and  sugar. 
Bake  without  burning,  using  greased  paper  if  necessary.  For  Fried 
Squash,  pare  and  cut  in  pieces,  steam  till  tender,  salting  while 
steaming ; place  in  hot  frying-pan  with  butter,  sprinkle  with  sugar 
and  fry  brown ; a little  cream  may  be  added  while  frying.  For 
Squash  take  any  cooked  squash,  mash,  and  to  a pint,  add  one 

egg,  cracker-crumbs  till  stiff  enough  to  shape,  season  with  salt  and 
pepper,  add  teaspoon  sugar,  make  into  cakes  and  fry  in  frying-pan. 
These  are  delicious.  A little  bur  ter  may  be  added  if  wished. 


872 


VEGETABLES. 


Succotash. — Take  pint  of  shelled  lima  beans  (green),  wash, 
cover  with  hot  water,  let  stand  five  minutes,  pour  off,  place  over  fire 
in  hot  water,  and  boil  fifteen  minutes ; have  ready  corn  from  six 
good-sized  ears,  and  add  to  beans ; boil  half  an  hour,  add  salt,  pepper 
and  two  tablespoons  butter.  Be  careful  in  cutting  down  corn  not  to 
cut  too  deep,  better  not  cut  deep  enough  and  then  scrape ; after  corn 
is  added,  watch  carefully  to  keep  from  scorching.  Or,  With  Meat.^ 
boil  pound  salt  pork  two  hours,  add  beans,  cook  fifteen  minutes, 
then  add  corn  and  finish  as  above,  omitting  butter.  Or,  string  beans 
may  be  used,  cooking  two  hours  before  adding  corn  ; or  With  Mea  t ^ 
put  beans  on  with  meat,  then  finish  as  above.  For  Winter  Succo- 
tash^ wash  pint  lima  beans  (dried  when  green)  and  one  and  a half 
pints  dried  corn  ; put  beans  in  kettle  and  cover  with  cold  water ; 
cover  corn  with  cold  water  in  a tin  pan,  set  on  top  of  kettle  of  beans 
so  that  while  the  latter  are  boiling  the  corn  may  be  heating  and 
swelling,  or  soak  corn  overnight ; boil  beans  fifteen  minutes,  drain 
off,  cover  with  boiling  water,  and  when  tender  (half  an  hour)  add 
corn,  cooking  both  together  half  an  hour ; five  minutes  before  serv- 
ing, add  salt,  pepper  and  a dressing  of  butter  and  flour  rubbed  to- 
gether, or  half  teacup  cream  or  milk  thickened  with  tablespoon 
flour.  Or  parboil  quart  dry  white  beans  in  soda  water.  Cook  slowly 
in  a separate  vessel  two-thirds  as  much  dried  sweet  corn.  Pour  off 
soda  water  from  beans  and  put  them  over  fire  in  cold  water,  with  a 
small  piece  salt  pork.  Let  them  boil  about  three  hours,  adding  hot 
water  to  prevent  burning.  When  nearly  done,  add  corn,  a trifle  of 
red  pepper,  a small  piece  of  butter,  and  a tablespoon  sugar.  The 
pork  makes  it  salt  enough. 

Baked  Tomatoes. — Take  nice  large  tomatoes ; wash  and  wipe 
dry;  cut  in  halves  ; lay  iji  baking  dish  with  rind  down^  so  the  juice 
will  not  run  out ; put  a little  piece  of  butter  on  each  half,  sprinkle 
over  some  salt  and  pepper,  then  sift  with  flour  and  sugar  to  make 
them  brown ; put  a little  water  in  to  keep  from  burning  and  bake 
until  done.  Eat  warm  ; or  cut  in  slices,  season  as  above  and  cover 
with  a layer  of  bread-crumbs.  Or  into  quart  cold,  stewed  tomatoes, 
beat  two  eggs,  two  tablespoons  bread-crumbs,  tablespoon  chopped 
parsley,  and  a little  pepper  and  salt.  Bake  twenty  minutes  in  a 
quick  oven.  For  Stuifed  Tomatoes,  avX  a thin  slice  from  blossom 
side  of  twelve  solid,  smooth,  ripe  tomatoes,  with  a teaspoon  remove 
pulp  without  breaking  the  shell ; take  a small,  solid  head  of  cabbage 
and  one  onion,  chop  fine,  add  bread-crumbs  rubbed  fine,  and  pulp 
of  tomatoes,  season  with  pepper,  salt  and  sugar,  add  a teacup  good 
sweet  cream,  mix  well  together,  fill  tomatoes,  put  the  slice  back  in 
its  place,  lay  them  stem  end  down  in  a buttered  baking  dish  with 
just  enough  water  (some  cook  without  water),  with  a small  lump  of 
butter  on  each,  to  keep  from  burning,  and  bake  half  an  hour,  or  un- 
til thoroughly  done  ; place  a bit  of  butter  on  each  and  serve  in  bak- 
ing dish.  They  make  a handsome  dish  for  a dinner  table.  Some 


VEGETABLES. 


omit  cabbage  and  cream ; or  a little  finely  chopped  cooked  meat 
may  be  added ; or  cut  six  tomatoes  in  halves, remove  pulp  and  fill  inside 
with  a mixture  of  bread-crumbs,  and  grated  Parmesan  cheese  seas- 
oned with  pepper  and  salt ; place  a small  piece  of  butter  on  each 
half  tomato,  and  lay  them  close  together  in  a well-buttered  tin. 
Bake  in  a slow  oven  about  half  an  hour,  and  serve  with  the  liquor 
that  comes  from  them  when  cooking,  or  a nice  rich  gravy  may  be 
poured  over  them.  Or  any  stuffed  tomatoes  may  be  Fried  care- 
fully or  they  are  delicious  Braised. 

Fried  Tomatoes. — Peel  tomatoes  and  cut"  crosswise  in  large 
slices,  salt  and  pepper,  dip  each  slice  into  flour,  then  into  beaten 
egg,  and  fry  at  once  in  hot  lard ; serve  hot.  A cup  of  milk  is  some- 
times thickened  with  a little  flour  and  butter,  boiled  and  poured 
over  them ; or  cover  with  a White  Sauce,  or  with  a gravy  made  by 
browning  tablespoon  flour  in  pan  in  which  tomatoes  were  fried, 
adding  milk  till  of  a creamy  consistency.  Or  single-bread  them 
and  fry  in  frying-pan,  turning  to  brown  both  sides.  Some  do  not 
pare  them  and  others  remove  the  seeds.  With  Peppers^  peel  a 
dozen  ripe  tomatoes,  and  fry  in  butter,  with  two  or  three  sliced  green 
peppers ; sprinkle  with  little  salt,  add  sliced  onion  and  cook  well 
together.  A nice  way  to  serve  fried  tomatoes  is  in  center  of  dish 
with  chops  at  each  end.  For  Fried  Green  Tomatoes,  take  nice 
smooth  green  tomatoes,  wash,  slice,  and  sprinkle  over  a little  salt, 
let  stand  five  minutes,  drain,  roll  in  meal,and  fry  in  butter.  Serve  hot. 

Scalloped  Tomatoes. — Scald  and  skin  half  a peck  of  firm,  ripe 
tomatoes.  Cut  in  slices ; take  quart  bread-crumbs,  half  pint  but- 
ter, two  tablespoons  sugar,  teaspoon  salt,  half  of  pepper,  and  one 
onion  chopped  very  fine.  Put  into  a buttered,  earthen  baking  dish  a 
layer  of  bread-crumbs,  upon  which  place  a layer  of  sliced  tomatoes; 
upon  these  place  a few  bits  of  the  butter,  a little  of  the  chopped 
onion,  and  a sprinkle  of  the  pepper,  sugar  and  salt.  Now  another 
layer  of  the  bread-crumbs,  etc.,  and  so  alternate  until  dish  is  full, 
with  last  layer  bread-crumbs,  dotting  it  over  with  small  pieces,  of  but- 
ter, and  dusting  it  with  pepper  and  salt.  Place  in  a good  oven  and 
bake  one  hour.  The  onion  may  be  omitted,  or  onions  prepared  by 
soaking  overnight  in  hot  water,  dried  well,  sliced  in  nearly  half-incn 
slices,  and  browned  on  both  sides  in  a frying-pan  with  butter,  may 
be  added,  a layer  on  each  layer  of  tomatoes.  Some  use  bread  cut 
in  small  pieces  instead  of  the  crumbs.  For  Sliced  Tomatoes.,  scald 
a few  at  a time  in  boiling  water,  peel,  slice,  and  sprinkle  with  salt 
and  pepper,  set  away  in  a cool  place  for  half  an  hour,  or  lay  a piece 
of  ice  on  them.  Serve  as  a relish  for  dinner  in  their  own  liquor* 
Those  who  desire  may  add  vinegar  and  sugar.  Some  peel  without 
scalding  in  order  to  keep  them  as  firm  as  possible. 

Stewed  Tomatoes. — Scald  as  above,  peel,  slice  and  cut  out  all 
defective  parts ; place  a lump  of  butter  in  a hot  skillet,  put  in  toma- 


874 


VEGETABLES. 


toes,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  keep  up  a brisk  fire,  and  cook  as 
rapidly  as  possible,  stirring  with  a spoon  or  chopping  up  with  a 
knife  (in  the  latter  case  wipe  the  knife  as  often  as  used  or  it  will 
blacken  the  tomatoes).  Cook  half  an  hour.  Serve  at  once  in  a 
deep  dish  lined  with  toast.  When  iron  is  used,  tomatoes  must  cook 
rapidly  and  have  constant  attention.  If  prepared  in  granite  or  por- 
celain, they  do  not  require  the  same  care.  With  Vinegar^  just  be- 
fore dishing  add  two  tablespoons  vinegar  to  a quart  or  two  of  toma- 
toes. With  Gravy ^ leave  them  whole,  put  in  a large-bottomed 
saucepan  and  add  to  seven  or  eight  tomatoes,  half  pint  good  gravy, 
stew  gently,  turning  them  carefully  once  or  twice  to  thoroughly 
cook  them  ; when  done,  add  a little  thickening  of  flour  and  butter 
rubbed  smooth,  let  boil  up  once  and  serve.  For  Tomato  Toasts  run 
a quart  stewed  ripe  tomatoes  through  a colander,  place  in  a porce- 
lain stewpan,  season  with  butter,  pepper  and  salt  and  sugar  to  taste; 
cut  slices  of  bread  thin,  brown  on  both  sides,  butter  and  lay  on  a 
platter,  and  just  before  serving  add  a pint  good  sweet  cream  to 
stewed  tomatoes,  and  pour  them  over  toast.  For  Tomatoes  With 
Eggs,  peel  skins  from  twelve  large  tomatoes.  Put  four  spoonfuls 
butter  in  a frying-pan ; when  hot,  add  one  large  onion  chopped  fine; 
let  it  fry  a few  minutes,  add  tomatoes,  and  when  nearly  done,  six 
eggs  well  beaten.  With  Meat,  quart  ripe  tomatoes  or  one  can,  pint 
cold  boiled  beef  chopped  not  too  fine,  butter  the  size  of  an  egg,  half 
pint  liquor  in  which  beef  has  been  boiled,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste ; 
add  a small-sized  onion,  chopped  fine ; place  in  the  oven  and  bake 
slowly  one  hour.  With  Onions,  slice  two  large  onions,  quart  toma- 
toes, cook  and  season  with  pepper,  salt,  butter,  thicken  with  bread. 
Just  before  serving  add  half  cup  either  sweet  or  good  sour  cream. 
If  tomatoes  are  taken  from  fire  before  adding  cream  it  will  not  cur- 
dle. With  Rice,  scald  and  peel  six  ripe  tomatoes,  scald  cup  rice, 
and  put  both  together  in  a pan ; add  tablespoon  sugar,  a little  salt 
pepper,  and  water  enough  to  bring  the  rice  to  consistency  of  plain 
boiled  rice  when  done,  and  stew  till  latter  is  tender.  Season  with 
butter  before  serving. 

Baked  Turnips. — Take  whole  turnips,  wash  well,  but  do  not 
peel,  cut  slice  off  top,  place  in  oven  and  bake ; when  done  serve  in 
the  skin ; they  can  be  seasoned  and  eaten  right  out  of  the  shell  the 
skin  forms.  The  white  turnips  are  best  for  this.  Or  peel,  slice  and 
bake  ; or  peel  either  white  or  yellow,  latter  known  as  ruta-bagas,  cut 
in  small  slices,  dice  are  nicest,  and  boil  in  boiling  salted  water  till 
tender ; drain,  put  in  an  earthen  baking  dish  and  cover  with  a White 
Sauce  made  of  milk  or  water,  add  a layer  of  bread  or  cracker- 
crumbs  and  dot  with  bits  of  butter  and  brown  in  oven.  Cold  boiled 
turnips  can  be  used  as  above  and  either  make  a very  nice  dish. 

Fried  Turnips. — Cut  ruta-bagas  in  slices  about  three-eighths 
of  an  inch  thick,  steam  until  very  near  tender,  take  them  out  into 


VEGETABLES. 


875 


a frying-pan  containing  a little  lard,  or  butter  is  better,  and  fry  un- 
til a nice  brown ; turn,  and  brown  the  other  side.  Salt  while  fry- 
ing and  serve  hot.  White  ones  can  be  cooked  same.  Or  for  B'ri- 
cassed  Turnips^  prepare  as  for  white  or  yellow  as  above ; when 
brown,  add  to  a scant  quart  of  slices  a tablespoon  sugar,  mix  well, 
then  put  in  cup  stock  and  place  pan  on  back  of  range  to  cook 
slowly  till  turnips  are  done.  Prepare  a saucepan  with  a tablespoon 
butter,  mix  in  half  tablespoon  flour  and  add  a little  stock ; when 
mixed  add  the  turnips  and  sauce,  let  boil  up  once  and  serve.  Boil- 
ing water  may  be  used  in  place,  of  stock,  but  it  will  not  make  so 
rich  a dish. 

Diced  Turnips. — Pare,  slice,  cut  in  dice  an  inch  square,  boil 
till  nearly  done,  in  as  little  salted  water  as  possible ; to  one  quart  tur- 
nips, add  tablespoon  sugar,  and  season  as  needed ; when  boiled  as 
dry  as  possible,  add  two  tablespoons  cream  and  a beaten  egg, 
and  serve.  This  is  very  nice ; or  peel  and  cut  in  small  balls  or  any 
fancy  shape  wished  and  boil  as  above  adding  a little  butter  to  the 
water ; when  tender,  drain,  place  in  dish  and  pour  over  a White 
Sauce ; adding  a little  sugar  to  latter  gives  a richer  flavor. 

Mashed  Turni'ps. — Wash,  peel,  cut  in  thin  slices  across  the 
grain,  and  place  in  kettle  in  as  little  water  as  possible ; boil  from 
half  to  three-quarters  of  an  hour  or  until  you  can  easily  pierce  them 
with  a fork  ; drain  well,  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  butter,  mash 
fine  and  place  on  stove,  stirring  frequently  until  water  is  all  dried 
out.  . Boil  rapidly  as  they  are  much  sweeter  when  cooked  quickly. 
Turnips  may  be  steamed  and  finished  as  above,  and  are  better  than 
when  boiled.  Serve  very  hot  as  this  is  very  important  with  turnips 
however  cooked.  The  yellow  variety  take  a longer  time  to  cook  but 
are  much  liked  by  those  who  use  them.  With  Eggs.,  mash  as  above, 
and  mix  with  an  equal  quantity  of  beaten  eggs  ; set  back  on  stove, 
and  stir  until  eggs  are  a little  cooked.  For  Pichled  Turnips.,  wash 
clean  before  boiling  but  do  not  pare  them.  If  the  rind  is  broken 
the  juice  escapes.  When  cooked  take  off  the  outside,  slice  them 
like  beets  and  pour  hot  spiced  vinegar  over  them.  They  are  to  be 
eaten  when  newly  cooked  and  warm,  and  are  liked  by  some  as  well 
as  Pickled  Beets.  For  Turnip  Greens^  wash  greens  well  in  two  or 
three  waters,and  pick  off  all  the  decayed  and  dead  leaves  ; tie  in  small 
bunches,  and  put  into  plenty  of  boiling  salted  water,  foep  boiling 
quickly,  with  lid  of  saucepan  uncovered,  and  when  tender,  pour  in 
colander ; drain  well,  arrange  in  dish,  remove  strings  and  serve. 

Boiled  Dinner. — Put  meat  on,  after  washing  well,  in  enough 
boiling  water  to  just  cover ; as  soon  as  it  boils,  put  kettle  on  stove 
where  it  will  simmer  or  boil  very  slowly ; cook  until  almost  tender, 
then  put  in  vegetables  in  following  order : Cabbage  cut  in  quarters, 
turnips  of  medium  size  cut  in  halves,  and  potatoes  whole,  or  if  large 


876 


VEGETABLES. 


cut  in  two  ; peel  potatoes  and  turnips,  and  allow  to  lie  in  cold  water 
for  half  an  hour  before  using.  The  meat  should  be  well  skimmed 
before  adding  vegetables  ; boil  together  until  thoroughly  done  (add- 
ing a little  salt  before  taking  out  of  kettle),  when  there  should  be 
left  only  just  enough  water  to  prevent  burning;  take  up  vegetables 
in  separate  dishes,  and  lastly  the  meat;  if  there  is  any  juice  in  ket- 
tle, pour  it  over  cabbage.  Boil  cabbage  an  hour,  white  turnips  and 
potatoes  half  an  hour,  ruta-bagas  an  hour  and  a half  to  two  hours. 
A soup  plate  or  saucer  turned  upside  down,  or  a few  iron  table- 
spoons are  useful  to  place  in  bottom  of  kettle  to  keep  meat  from 
burning.  Parsnips  may  be  substituted  in  place  of  cabbage  and 
turnips,  cooking  them  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  and  some  think  a 
boiled  dinner  incomplete  without  onions  and  squash,  cooking  them 
separately  and  steaming  the  latter  is  better.  For  Vegetable  Hash^ 
chop,  not  very  fine,  the  vegetables  left  from  a boiled  dinner,  and 
season  them  with  salt  and  pepper ; place  in  dripping  pan,  add  bits 
of  butter  and  heat  in  oven ; or  to  each  quart  chopped  vegetables  add 
half  cup  stock  and  tablespoon  butter.  Heat  slowly  in  the  frying- 
pan.  Turn  into  a hot  dish  when  done,  and  serve  immediately.  If 
vingear  is  liked,  two  or  more  tablespoons  of  it  can  be  stirred  into 
the  hash  while  it  is  heating. 

Vegetable  Stevjs. — These  are  of  German  or  Swiss  origin,  and  if 
well  prepared  are  excellent.  For  a Cabbage  Stew^  take  as  much  as 
needed,  quarter, core  and  boil  till  fairly  done,  but  not  tender;  then 
skim  out  into  a large  pan  of  clear,  cold  water.  Let  it  cool  and  drain ; 
press  in  colander  or  with  the  hands,  then  cut  it  fine  or  coarse  qust 
liked  ; meantime  put  on  stove  a kettle  or  saucepan — a deep  frying- 
pan  will  do — with  butter  and  drippings,  half  and  half,  rather  more 
than  for  frying  same  amount  potatoes, and  add  a minced  onion  or  two. 
When  it  is  slightly  browned  dredge  with  a tablespoon  of  flour  to  a 
quart  of  cabbage ; it  should  be  rather  moist.  Pepper  and  salt  to 
taste,  stir  frequently  and  cook  slowly  from  half  to  three-quarters  of 
an  hour.  Never  put  a cover  on  any  of  these  vegetable  stews  while 
cooking  as  it  would  cause  the  thickening  to  settle  to  bottom  and  burn, 
while  the  evaporating  process  that  gives  it  flavor  would  be  checked. 
If  to  guard  against  flies,  a cover  is  necessary,  use  a wire  one.  For 
Bean  Stew^  put  a teacup  picked  and  washed  white  beans  into  just 
such  a foundation  as  directed  for  Potato  Stew,  only  the  beans  must 
be  put  on  to  cook  three  or  four  hours  before  dinner  and  need  more 
water  than  potatoes.  Do  not  cover.  Pea  Stews^  either  with  dried 
or  split  pease,  are  very  good  cooked  in  this  way,  though  most  people 
prefer  to  use  smoked  bacon  for  the  fat  part  of  the  foundation  for  pease. 
In  any  of  these  stews,  pork,  salt  or  fresh  can  be  used  as  fat  instead 
of  butter,  lard  or  drippings.  Carrots,  parsnips,  turnips,  egg-plant, 
tomatoes,  cauliflower  or  any  vegetables  can  be  stewed  thus,  making 
a variety  of  most  wholesome  and  inexpensive  dishes.  Something 
similar  to  these  stews  is  the  Fewer  Pot:  After  washing  thoroughly 


VEGETABLES. 


place  pound  and  three-quarters  of  honey-comb  tripe  in  kettle  with  a 
two  pound  knuckle  of  veal  and  two  quarts  cold  water ; when  boiling, 
skim  and  then  simmer  slowly  for  six  or  seven  hours,  adding  boiling 
water  as  needed.  When  done,  strain,  let  stand  overnight,  remove  fat 
and  put  the  stock  in  kettle ; then  add  half  a red  pepper,  cut  in  strips, 
tablespoon  minced  parsley  and  a medium-sized  onion,  chopped  fine, 
and  simmer  three-quarters  of  an  hour.  Make  a thickening  of  a 
tablespoon  or  two  of  the  fat  taken  from  soup  with  two  tablespoons 
flour,  stirring  it  smooth  with  a little  of  the  broth  from  kettle ; add 
this,  stirring  in  well  and  then  add  two  or  three  medium-sized  raw 
potatoes,  chopped  fine,  with  the  tripe  and  veal  cut  in  inch  squares, 
cook  five  minutes,  add  some  tiny  Suet  Dumplings,  and  after  cook- 
ing fifteen  minutes,  serve.  This  makes  a delicious  stew  and  if  more 
of  a soup  is  wished  use  four  quarts  water  instead  of  two. 


inter  V egetables. 


As  vegetables  are  such  a necessary  part  of  our  winter  diet,  it  is 
essential  to  know  the  better  ways  of  keeping  them  as  nearly  perfect 
as  possible.  Canning  gives  good  results  but  it  is  considered  by 
many  quite  an  arduous  task  to  can,  so  we  give  below  methods  of 
preserving  in  salt,  drying,  etc.,  that  are  claimed  to  be  never  failing. 


Beans  in  Brine, — Wash,  string,  and  cut  up  the  pods,  as  if  pre- 
paring for  immediate  cooking ; take  a large  earthen  vessel  or  water- 
tight cask,  sprinkle  a layer  of  salt  at  the  bottom,  then  fill  up  with 
alternate  layers  of  cut  beans  and  salt ; when  the  vessel  is  quite  full, 
place  a wooden  plate  on  the  top  layer  of  salt,  with  a weight  on  it  to 
press  the  whole  mass  well  down.  After  standing  a few  days  the 
vessel  will  be  found  little  more  than  half  full ; it  can  then  be  filled 
up  with  more  cut  beans  and  salt,  and  the  process  repeated  till  quite 
full.  Place  a liberal  layer  of  salt  on  the  top,  put  the  wooden  plate 
and  weight  on,  and  set  in  a cool  place  till  required.  Or  string  fresh 
green  beans,  and  cut  down  the  sides  till  within  an  inch  of  the  end, 
boil  in  water  fifteen  minutes,  take  out  and  drain ; when  cold,  pack 
in  a stone  jar,  first  putting  two  tablespoons  salt  in  bottom,  then  a 
quart  of  beans,  sprinkle  with  a tablespoon  salt,  put  in  layer  after  layer 
in  this  way  till  the  crock  is  full,  pour  over  a pint  of  cold  well-water 
(if  not  filled  the  first  time,  beans  may  be  added  until  filled,  putting 


878 


VEGETABLES. 


in  no  more  water  after  this  pint),  put  on  a cloth  with  a plate  and 
weight,  set  away  in  cool  place,  and  in  about  a week  take  off  cloth, 
wash  it  out  in  a little  salt  water  (there  will  be  a scum  upon  it),  put 
back  as  before,  and  repeat  operation  at  end  of  another  week ; then 
pack  away,  and  when  wanted  for  use,  take  out  the  quantity  wanted 
and  soak  for  half  an  hour,  put  in  pot  in  cold  water  with  a piece  of 
fresh  pork,  cook  half  an  hour,  season  with  pepper  and  a little  salt  if 
needed ; or  cook  without  pork,  and  season  with  butter  and  pepper  ; 
or  some  fill  the  crock  with  the  cooked  beans  and  then  cover  with  a 
strong  brine  made  as  for  cucumbers.  Or  for  Dried  String  Beans^ 
string  and  cut  as  for  cooking  and  dry  like  corn.  To  use  soak  and 
cook  as  fresh  ones. 

Dried  Sweet  Corn. — Take  it  when  it  is  in  good  roasting  ears, 
gather  it  fresh  or  if  dependent  on  market,  engage  before  and  ask  to 
have  it  freshly  picked.  After  silking  carefully,  cut  from  the  cob, 
being  careful  not  to  cut  too  close  to  cob,  then  take  back  of  knife  and 
scrape  the  ear ; as  soon  as  there  is  sufficient  put  in  pans  lined  with 
brown  paper  (about  an  inch  deep  of  corn)  and  place  in  not  too  hot 
an  oven,  watch  carefully  stirring  occasionally  and  when  thoroughly 
heated,  place  on  a cloth-covered  table,  or  boards,  out  in  the  sun,  pro- 
tect from  flies  with  mosquito  netting,  nothing  thicker,  not  always 
necessary  to  use  anything,  as  the  more  quickly  it  is  dried  the  sweeter 
it  will  be.  In  the  course  of  an  hour  or  two  or  even  less,  return  to 
pans  and  reheat,  watching  carefully  it  does  not  burn.  In  the  mean- 
time keep  heating  the  fresh ; it  is  better  not  to  cut  more  than  can  be 
placed  in  oven  at  once  as  the  sooner  corn  is  dried  after  being  cut 
the  better  it  is  ; keep  reheating  and  spreading  out  in  sun  as  often  as 
possible,  four  or  five  times  during  the  day,  as  this  method  insures 
the  most  perfect  of  dried  sweet  corn.  Continue  with  each  lot  till 
the  grains  rattle ; when  done,  reheat,  and  when  cool  put  in  paper 
sacks  tied  securely  to  protect  from  flies  and  keep  in  a dry  cool 
place.  Or  the  corn  may  be  left  out  in  sun  all  day  taking  in  before 
sunset,  (never  leave  it  out  too  late  to  gather  dampness),  and  then  re- 
heated in  morning  and  placed  out  again,  continuing  this  till  thor- 
oughly dried.  Or  some  dry  in  moderate  oven  on  plates,  not  plac- 
ing in  sun  at  all,  but  this  necessitates  great  watchfulness.  The  eas- 
iest and  safest  way,  without  risk  of  scorching  is  to  prepare  like  the 
New  Process  Dried  Corn;  secure  corn  as  above  and  after  cleaning 
place  the  ears  in  a large  steamer  over  the  fire  (one  can  be  improvised 
by  using  a wash-boiler,  with  cover,  putting  in  pieces  of  hard- 
wood in  the  bottom  and  placing  a dripping  pan  on  them  or-  a piece 
of  tin  with  holes  in  it),  let  remain  a short  time,  only  long  enough 
to  set  the  milk ; then  cut  about  two-thirds  depth  of  the  kernel  from 
cob  with  a very  sharp  knife  and  with  back  of  knife  scrape  the  in- 
side of  the  rest  of  the  kernel  from  the  cob.  Have  clean  sheet  or 
table-cloth  laid  on  boards  in  the  sun  and  as  soon  as  a small  quant- 
ity is  prepared,  place  immediately  on  boards  and  continue  above 


VEGETABLES. 


879 


process  till  all  is  cut.  A good  drying  day  will  nearly  dry  the  corn 
sufficient  to  place  in  oven  to  finish  in  the  evening,  hut  it  often  hap- 
pens that  the  day  is  not  such ; then  place  the  cloth  with  the  corn  on 
it  on  tables  or  on  a clean  floor  in  a vacant  room  overnight,  and  put 
out  in  sun  next  day.  Continue  to  do  this  till  it  is  thoroughly  dry, 
then  place  a thick  paper  in  a dripping  pan,  pour  in  corn  and  put  in 
a warm  oven  till  corn  is  so  hot  it  cannot  be  touched  with  the  finger. 
While  in  stove  watch  constantly  to  keep  from  scorching  or  becom- 
ing brown,  and  finish  as  above.  For  Corn  in  Brine,  select  nice 
large  ears  just  right  for  eating,  remove  all  husks  except  inside  row, 
place  a layer  of  salt  in  a barrel,  (a  hard-wood  one  is  better)  then 
layer  of  ears  of  corn,  then  salt,  etc.,  till  all  is  used ; add  enough 
water  to  form  a brine,  and  cover  with  board,  cloth  and  weight  as  for 
Cucumbers  in  Brine.  Corn  may  be  added  during  the  season,  caring 
for  the  covering  as  directed  in  Pickles.  To  use,  freshen  overnight 
and  cook  as  new  corn.  For  Cut  Corn  in  Brine,  scald  corn  just 
enough  to  set  the  milk,  cut  from  cob  and  to  every  four  pints  corn 
•add  pint  salt,  mix  thoroughly,  pack  in  jars,  and  cover  with  a cloth 
and  weight ; when  wanted  for  use  put  in  a saucepan  or  kettle,  cover 
with  cold  water ; as  soon  as  it  comes  to  a boil  pour  off  and  put  on 
Dold  again,  and  repeat  until  it  is  fresh  enough ; when  tender,  add  a 
very  little  sugar,  sweet  cream,  or  butter,  etc.,  to  taste  and  serve.  Or 
Corn  may  be  steamed  instead  of  being  scalded,  and  some  use 
one-fourth  or  even  one-third  salt,  soaking  overnight  or  longer,  if 
.necessary,  before  cooking. 

Hulled  Corn.— old  fashioned  luxury  is  really  a delicious  dish 
when  properly  prepared.  Take  a six-quart  pail  full  of  ashes  (hard 
wood  ashes  if  possible  as  they  are  stronger) ; put  them  into  an  iron 
kettle  with  three  gallons  water ; let  boil  about  five  minutes,  then  set 
off  from  fire,  and  turn  in  a pint  of  cold  water  to  settle  it.  The  water 
should  then  feel  a little  slippery.  Turn  off  lye  and  strain ; put  it 
into  an  iron  kettle,  and  put  in  six  quarts  shelled  corn ; put  it  over  a 
brisk  fire,  and  let  boil  half  an  hour,  skimming  and  stirring  frequently 
(the  outside  skin  of  the  kernels  will  then  slip  off)  ; strain  off  lye,  and 
rinse  thoroughly  in  several  clear  waters.  When  the  lye  is  thus 
weakened,  turn  corn  into  a large  pan  and  turn  in  water  enough  to 
cover  it ; then  rub  thoroughly  with  the  hands,  till  the  black  chits 
come  off ; rinse  and  strain  off  till  water  looks  clear ; then  put  back 
into  a clean  kettle,  with  water  enough  to  cover  it,  and  let  it  boil ; 
then  turn  off  water,  put  on  again,  and  parboil  three  or  four  times  (it 
will  swell  to  about  double  the  first  quantity)  ; the  last  time  boil  till 
quite  soft ; it  may  be  necessary  to  add  water  occasionally ; stir  often 
so  as  not  to  burn  at  bottom  of  the  kettle ; when  quite  soft,  put  in 
two  large  tablespoons  salt,  and  stir  well ; to  be  eaten  with  milk,  or 
butter  and  sugar.  It  is  a wholesome  dish,  and  although  there  is 
trouble  in  preparing  it,  yet  it  is  good  enough  to  pay  for  the  labor 


880 


VEGETABLES. 


and  trouble.  It  is  good  either  hot  or  cold,  and  was  considered  by 
our  grandparents  to  be  one  of  the  greatest  luxuries  of  the  table. 
Smaller  quantities  may  be  prepared  by  using  less  lye  and  corn.  Or 
With  Soda^  cover  two  quarts  ripe  corn  with  water,  add  a tablespoon 
soda,  and  boil  until  the  hull  slips  off.  Then  wash  and  boil  three  or 
four  different  times,  adding  salt  the  last  time.  Serve  as  above. 

Dried  Green  Pease. — Shell  green  pease,  and  boil  until  about 
half  done  in  a little  salted  water.  Take  out  and  spread  upon  plates 
and  dry  in  the  oven.  Dried  String  Beans  prepared  in  same  way. 

Dried  Pumpkin. — Peel,  cut  in  pieces  and  stew  as  for  pies  ; then 
spread  very  thin  on  greased  plates  and  dry.  Make  into  pies  as  directed 
in  Pastry.  Prepare  peaches  in  same  way,  making  what  is  known  as 
Peach  Leather.  Pumpkin  may  also  be  cut  in  rings,  peeled  and 
dried ; when  wanted  for  use  cook  till  soft  and  use  as  fresh  pumpkin. 

Ripe  Tomatoes  in  Brine. — Make  strong  brine  in  barrel  as  for 
Cucumbers,  and  put  in  tomatoes ; cover  but  do  not  put  a heavy  weight 
on  them  as  it  will  bruise  them.  To  use,  soak  overnight,  then  pre- 
pare as  fresh  tomatoes.  Tomatoes  in  Lard^  wipe  nice  tomatoes 
dry,  and  pack  a small  stone  jar  two-thirds  full ; fill  up  with  good  lard 
and  cover.  To  use,  wash  them  in  hot  water.  For  Tomatoes  in 
Vinegar.,  take  a crock  or  jar,  as  large  as  wanted  and  fill  with  toma- 
toes, washed  nice  and  clean,  cover  them  with  strong  brine,  one  week ; 
then  pour  off  and  cover  with  vinegar,  put  a light  weight  on  and  set 
them  in  the  cellar;  when  wanted,  slice  them  and  sprinkle  sugar  and 
pepper  over  them.  These  will  keep  till  spring. 

Vegetable  Medley.— a tight  iron-hooped  barrel,  put  in  a 
strong  brine  and  add  the  different  vegetables  as  received,  quartering 
the  cabbage,  stringing  the  beans  and  husking  and  silking  the  corn, 
or  the  inner  husk  may  be  left  on.  Vegetables  may  be  put  in  from 
time  to  time,  being  very  careful  all  are  kept  well  under  brine,  and  tie  a 
cloth  over  barrel  to  keep  out  dust.  Smaller  vegetables  such  as 
pease,  shelled  beans,  etc.,  may  be  put  in  cheese-cloth  sacks.  To  cover 
the  top  of  brine  it  is  nice  to  have  a barrel  head  small  enough  to 
slip  into  barrel,  with  strips  nailed  across  it  to  hold  it  together  and  a 
handle  with  which  to  lift  it  out.  Soak  vegetables  overnight  when 
wanted  for  use.  Water-melon  Rinds  may  be  prepared  and  put  up 
this  wa}^’,  and  made  into  preserves  when  wanted.  Peaches  may  also 
be  kept  thus  and  pickled  as  wished.  If  the  brine  evaporates  make 
more  and  keep  plenty  in  the  barrel.  Great  care  must  be  taken  not 
to  bruise  vegetables  put  up  in  this  way. 


A year’s  bill  of  fare. 


881 


A YEAR.’S  BILL  OF  FARE. 

The  following  arrangement  of  Bills  of  Fare  for  every  day  in  the  year  has 
been  made  with  especial  reference  to  convenience,  economy,  and  adaption 
to  the  wants  of  ladies  who  are  so  fortunate  as  to  be  obliged  to  look  after  their 
own  kitchens — not  for  those  who  employ  professional  cooks.  The  recipes 
referred  to  are  all  contained  in  this  book,  and  may  be  quickly  found  by  refer- 
ence to  the  alphabetical  index.  The  bills  of  fare  are  not,  of  course,  arbitrary 
but  are  intended  to  suggest  such  a variety  as  will  meet  the  wants  of  the 
whole  family.  The  arrangement  was  made  for  a year  beginning  with  Thurs- 
day. When  the  current  year  begins  earlier,  the  last  days  of  December  maj 
be  used  to  precede  those  here  given  for  January,  and  the  dates  changed  on 
the  margin  with  a soft  pencil,  so  that  they  may  be  readily  erased  and  changed 
again  for  subsequent  years.  A daily  references  to  these  pages  will,  we  feel 
sure,  save  the  housewife  much  puzzling  over  the  question,  “What  shall  we 
have  for  dinner?” 

For  the  sake  of  brevity,  coffee,  tea,  chocolate,  lemonade  in  hot  weather, 
and  milk  in  cold  v/eather,  have  not  been  mentioned  in  the  bills  of  fare. 
They  are  of  course  appropriate  to  any  meal,  and  are  to  be  used  according 
to  taste.  Soup  as  a regular  dinner  course,  is  always  in  order,  following  oys- 
ters raw  when  the  latter  are  in  season.  Soups  vary  in  name  far  more  than 
in  quality.  Much  of  the  slop  served  as  soup  a la  this,  that  and  the  other, 
would  not,  except  for  the  name,  be  recognized  as  something  to  be  taken  into 
the  human  stomach.  This,  however,  may  be  a matter  of  small  importance 
when  a bountiful  dinner  of  good  things  is  to  follow,  but  in  cases  where 
healthy  stomachs  are  demanding  supplies,  a really  good  soup,  with  or  witii- 
out  name,  is  heartily  relished,  and  is  very  wholesome  as  preparing  the  way 
for  more  solid  food.  In  any  family  where  soup  is  relished  a sufficient  sup- 
ply may  be  made  daily,  or  as  often  as  desired,  with  but  little  trouble  and 
trifling  addition  to  the  regular  expenses. 

Fresh  fish,  as  a separate  course,  comes  next  in  order.  Large  fish  of 
some  sort  are  usually  considered  most  elegant,  either  baked  or  boiled,  for 
dinner,  and  they  are  really  nice  when  they  can  be  procured  freshly  killed 
and  dripping  with  their  native  waters. 

Bread  is  always  an  accompaniment  of  every  course  at  dinner,  bread  and 
butter  being  more  properly  a part  of  dessert.  Cheese  is  to  most  persons  a 
pleasant  tit-bit  at  dessert,  and  pickles,  of  one  or  another  variety,  appropriate 
to  the  dishes  served,  are  seen  on  the  table  at  nearly  every  meal. 

56 


832 


A year’s  bill  of  fare. 


On  Sunday,  in  most  families,  the  dinner  is  delayed  until  two  or  three 
o’clock  and  the  supxjer  omitted  entirely,  and  in  winter  when  the  days  are 
short,  especially  in  the  more  northern  states,  two  meals  a day  is  the  rule 
for  every  day.  In  large  cities,  too,  where  business  hours  are  fewer,  and  the 
men  of  the  household  lunch  down  town  on  account  of  the  distance  residences 
are  from  business,  the  dinner  is  delayed  until  later  in  the  day,  and  the  bill 
of  fare  varied  accordingly. 

Fruits,  in  their  natural  state,  are  too  much  neglected  at  the  table  of  peo- 
ple in  moderate  circumstances.  Pies,  puddings  and  other  compounds, 
made  partly  of  fruit,  are  generally  less  wholesome  and  really  less  palatable 
than  the  fruit  itself  in  a natural  state  or  with  some  simple  dressing.  In  most 
localities  berries  in  their  season  are  not  costly.  Strawberries,  fresh,  rix)e 
and  luscious,  for  breakfast,  dinner  and  supper,  can  not  be  substituted  by 
any  thing  more  agreeable  and  refreshing,  and  as  the  season  for  this  fruit  is 
always  short  it  is  scarcely  possible  to  weary  of  them.  Scarcely  less  delicious 
are  the  rasj^berries,  blackberries  and  huckleberries  which  follow  soon.  Then 
come  ripe  water-melons,  cantelopes,  nutmeg  and  musk  melons  and  grapes, 
peaches  and  pears  Those  who  raise  their  own  melons  will  need  no  instruc- 
tion on  the  subject  of  serving  and  eating  them.  After  the  fruit  is  well  grown, 
a good  shot-gun  and  a keen  eye  on  the  “patch”  is  all  that  is  necessary  to 
secure  a ripe  crop.  But  to  the  dainty  housekeeper  who  must  buy  her  melon 
after  a week  or  two  of  shi])ping,  reshipping,  transporting  and  handling,  until 
it  has  cost  nearly  its  weight  in  gold,  the  best  instructions  are : Get  your 
melon  as  fresh  as  possible  ; let  it  remain  on  ice  several  hours  or  all  night ; if 
it  cuts  cris}),  and  has  ripe  seeds  and  tastes  well  flavored,  cut  the  ends  off  and 
set  up  on  a dish  ; divide  both  halves  through  the  middle  and  serve  in  long 
slices  or  cut  in  rings,  j^assing  a waiter  to  receive  the  rinds  ; or  pare  the  melon 
entire,  xnit  on  platter,  and  place  before  the  host  to  serve  in  rings  or  slices. 
But  if  the  meat  of  the  melon  appears  wilted  or  withered,  or  is  not  perfectly 
ripe,  pass  it  to  the  four-footed  beasts,  where  it  should  have  gone  in  the  first 
place.  Those  who  can  afford  the  more  costly  tropical  fruit,  such  as  bananas 
and  pine-api)les,  should  slice  them  as  thin  as  possible,  place  in  the  prettiest 
and  shallowest  glass  fruit-stands,  and  cover  well  with  sugar  for  some  time 
before  serving. 

Suggestions  for  the  tasteful  decoration  of  the  table  will  be  found  under 
“The  Dining  Room.” 

Bill  of  Fare  for  January. 

1.  Breakfast — Waffles,  broiled  steak,  fried  apples.  Dinner — Roast  duck, 
apple  sauce,  a brown  stew,  mashed  turnips,  baked  sweet-potatoes,  celery; 
prairie  plum  pudding  with  prairie  sauce,  fruit  cake,  oranges.  Supper — Liglit 
biscuit,  whipped  cream  with  preserves,  sliced  beef.  For  more  elaborate  bill 
of  fare  see  that  for  New  Year’s. 

2.  Breakfast. — Corn  muffins,  broiled  fish,  fried  raw  i^otatoes.  Dinner — 
Macaroni  soup,  salmi  of  duck,  roasted  jDotatoes,  oyster  salad,  canned  i)ease, 
celery  sauce ; pumpkin  pie.  Supper — Toasted  muffins,  shaved  dried  beef, 
tea,  rusk,  baked  ai^ples. 

3.  Breakfast — Cracked  wheat,  pig’s  feet  souse,  breakfast  potatoes.  Din- 
ner— Boiled  bacon  with  cabbage,  potatoes,  turnips,  carrots,  onion  sauce, 
chicken  pie ; bread  pudding  with  sauce.  Supper — Biscuit,  cold  bacon  shaved, 
bread  and  milk,  sponge  cake  and  jelly. 

4.  Sunday.  Breakfast — Buckwheat  cakes,  croquettes  of  sausage  meat, 
breakfast  hominy.  '^  Dinner — Roast  turkey,  mashed  potatoes,  Lima  beans, 
cranberry  sauce,  celery;  mince  pie,  ambrosia,  cake.  Supper — Cold  biscuit, 
sliced  turkey,  cranberry  jelly,  apple  sauce. 


A year’s  bill  of  fare. 


883 


5.  Breakfast — Graham  cakes,  fried  tripe,  potato  cakes.  Dinner — Escal- 
oped  tmkey,  baked  potatoes,  pickled  beets  ; cottage  pudding,  cake.  Supper 
— Dried  beef  frizzled,  hot  buns,  fried  apples. 

6.  Breakfast — Graham  gems,  broiled  mutton,  potatoes  a la  pancake. 
Dinner — Turkey  soup,  roasted  beef  with  potatoes,  stewed  tomatoes,  celery; 
rice  pudding,  fruit  cake.  Supper — Cold  buns,  sliced  beef,  Indian  pudding 
(corn  meal  mush)  and  milk. 

7.  Breakfast — Buttered  toast,  fried  mush  and  maple  syrup,  fried  liver. 
Dinner — Meal  pie  with  chili  sauce,  mashed  turnips,  stewed  corn;  apple 
dumplings  with  sauce,  cake.  Supper — Tea  rolls,  sardines  with  sliced  lemon, 
vusk,  ielly. 

8.  Breakfast- -EQ3ii  biscuit  broiled  steak,  ringed  potatoes.  Dinner — 
Baked  chicken  garnished  with  fried  oysters,  potatoes  in  their  jackets,  cran- 
berry sauce,  tomatoes,  slaw ; molasses  pudding,  lady  fingers.  Supper — Cold 
biscuit,  boned  chicken,  sponge  cake,  canned  peaches. 

9.  Breakfast — Toast,  fried  fish,  potatoes  fried.  Dinner — Stuffed  baked 
rabbit,  whole  boiled  potatoes,  salsify  stewed,  celery  sauce;  apple  float, 
pumpkin  pie,  cake.  Sapper — French  rolls,  cold  tongue,  sliced  oranges. 

10.  Breakfast — Bread  puffs,  broiled  sausage,  whole  potatoes  fried.  Din- 
ner— Saturday  bean  soup,  fried  mutton  chops,  plain  boiled  rice,  baked  pota- 
toes, beef  salad  ; March  pudding  with  sauce.  Supper — Plain  bread,  bologna 
sausage,  jelly  cake. 

11.  Sunday.  Breakfast.  Baked  beans  and  brown  bread,  fried  potatoes. 
Dinner — Roast  goose,  steamed  potatoes  and  turnips,  slaw,  onion  sauce,  plum 
jelly ; mince  pie,  chocolate  tarts,  oranges,  zufolos.  Supper — Cold  biscuit, 
cold  goose,  apple  jelly. 

12.  Breakfast. — Oatmeal  porridge,  hashed  goose  with  gravy,  plain  bread 
Dinner — Roast  mutton,  potatoes,  canned  peas,  caper  sauce  ; delicious  lemon 
pudding,  sponge  cake.  Supper. — Graham  gems,  sliced  mutton,  currant 
jelly. 

13.  Breakfast — Corn  batter  cakes,  croquettes  of  mutton  or  pates  hot  with 
gravy.  Dinner — Boiled  beef  with  soup,  potatoes,  parsnips,  chili  sauce: 
baked  custard,  jelly  cake.  Supper — Dry  toast,  sliced  beef,  canned  fruit. 

14.  Breakfast — Stewed  kidneys,  (Graham  bread,  fricassed  potatoes.^ 
Dinner — Oyster  pie,  potatoes,  tomatoes,  salsify,  celery ; apple  fritters  with* 
sugar. 

15.  Breakfast — Sally  Lunn,  hash,  cracked  wheat  and  cream — Dinner — 
Roast  duck,  potatoes,  winter  succotash,  onions  baked,  celery;  cocoanut  pud- 
ding, oranges,  jelly  cake.  /Supper— Toasted  Sally  Lunn,  cold  duck,  plain 
rice  with  cream. 

16.  Breakfast — Rice  cakes,  spare  ribs  broiled,  fried  raw  potatoes.  Din- 
ner— Baked  fish,  canned  corn,  tomato  sauce,  fricassee  of  salmon  or  halibut, 
baked  potatoes;  tapioca  pudding.  Supper — Warm  rolls,  pressed  meat, 
orange  short  cake. 

17.  Breakfast — Waffles,  mutton  chops  broiled,  potatoes  fried.  Dinner — 
Chicken  pot-pie,  canned  beans,  celery ; peach  rolls,  oranges.  Supper — Tea 
rolls,  shced  and  toasted  bologna  sausage,  apples. 

18.  Sunday.  Breakfast — Muffins,  broiled  steak,  stew'ed  tomatoes.  Din- 
ner— Roast  pork  with  parsnips,  molded  potatoes,  apple  sauce,  celery;  cold 
apple  pie,  rice  snow.  Supper — Muffins,  cold  chicken,  canned  fruit,  light 
cake. 

19.  Breakfast — Fried  sausage,  buckwheat  cakes,  duchesse  potatoes. 
Dinner — Roast  beef,  baked  potatoes,  tomatoes,  beet  salad;  apple  dumplings 
with  sauce,  cake.  Supper — Cold  rolls,  sliced  beef,  stewed  apples,  mush  and 
milk. 

20.  Breakfast — Plain  bread,  fried  mush,  pig’s  feet  souse.  Dinner — Boiled 
leg  of  mutton  with  soup,  potatoes,  boiled  tongue  dressed,  canned  corn,  cel- 


884 


A year's  bill  of  fare. 


ery  sauce ; pumpkin  pie,  cake.  Supper — Hot  biscuit,  cold  tongue,  apple 
fritters  with  sauce. 

21.  Breakfast — Hot  rolls,  mutton  croquettes,  flannel  cakes.  Dinner — 
Meat  pie,  baked  sweet  potatoes,  canned  succotash,  cabbage  salad ; hot  peach 
pie  with  cream.  Supper — Cold  biscuit,  sliced  tongue,  buns,  apples  and  Cov- 
entry tarts. 

22.  Breakfast — Corn  cakes,  broiled  steak,  potatoe  croquettes.  Dinner — 
Roast  duck,  potatoes,  salsify,  onion  salad,  cranberry  jelly;  bread  pudding 
with  sauce.  Supper — Beefsteak  toast,  cold  duck,  currant  jelly. 

23.  Breakfast — Buckwheat  cakes,  broiled  fish,  potato  balls.  Dinner— 
Oyster  pie,  mashed  potatoes,  baked  beets,  celery  sauce  ; chocolate  pudding, 
oranges.  Supper — Light  biscuit,  cold  pressed  meat,  bread  and  milk, 

24.  Breakfast — Breakfast  wheat,  broiled  spare  ribs,  tomato  sauce.  Din- 
ner— Boiled  ham  with  cabbage,  potatoes,  parsnips,  carrots,  beets;  warm  pie 
of  dried  fruit.  Supper — Hot  rolls,  shaved  ham,  fried  apples,  cream  crisps. 

25.  Sunday.  Breakfast — Muflins,  broiled  tenderloin,  vegetable  hash. 
Dinner — Stewed  Oysters,  roast  turkey  with  potatoes,  turnips,  Lima  beans, 
apple  sauce,  celery;  mince  pie,  bavarian  cream.  Supper — Muflins,  cold  tur- 
key, canned  fruit,  tea  cakes. 

26.  Breakfast — Coin  batter  cakes,  turkey  croquettes,  hominy.  Dinner — 
Boiled  corned  beef  with  turnijis,  potatoes,  carrots;  horseradish  grav}^ ; sago 
pudding.  Supper — Light  biscuit,  sliced  corn  beef,  baked  apples.^ 

27.  Breakfast — Graham  gems,  broiled  mutton,  potatoes.  Dinner — Es- 
caloped  turkey,  baked  potatoes,  split  pease,  onion  salad  ; Buckeye  dumplings 
with  sauce.  Supper — Toasted  gems,  pates  of  cold  turkey,  tea  rusk,  jelly. 

28.  Breakfast  — Gluten  cakes,  broiled  beefsteak,  })otatoes.  Dinner — 
Chicken  boiled  with  soup,  whole  potatoes  boiled,  plain  boiled  rice,  cabbage 
salad;  apple  pie,  cake.  Supper — Vienna  rolls,  cold  chicken,  canned  fruit, 
cake. 

29.  Breakfast — Corn  cakes,  broiled  sausage,  fricassed  potatoes.  Din- 
ner— Roast  beef,  potatoes,  chicken  salad,  cranberry  sauce,  celery  ; plain  boil- 
ed pudding  with  sauce,  cake.  Sapper — Plain  bread,  cold  beef,  rice  fritters 
with  jelly. 

, 30.  Breakfast — Oatmeal  'porridge,  panned  oysters  on  toast,  fried  raw 

potatoes.  Hfn/ier— Baked  fish,  mashed  potatoes,  mayonnaise  of  salmon, 
salsify  stewed,  cranberry  sauce  ; brown  betty,  cake.  Supp)er — Light  biscuit, 
fish  balls,  apple  fritters  with  sugar. 

31.  Breakfast — Sally  Lunn,  pork  steak,  fried  potatoes.  Dinner — Fillet 
of  beef  stuffed  and  baked,  ])otatoes,  cabbage  salad,  beets;  apple  tapioca, 
cake.  Supper — Toasted  Sally  Lunn,  cold  beef,  rice  blanc-mange. 

Bill  of  Bare  for  Bebmary. 

1.  Sunday.  Breakfast — Hot  rolls,  broiled  sirloin  steak,  Saratoga  po- 
tatoes. Dinner — Chicken  pie  with  oysters,  roast  potatoes,  salsify,  dried 
Lima  beans,  lobster  salad,  currant  jelly  ; orange  pudding,  fruit  cake.  Sap- 
per— Cold  rolls,  cold  tongue,  cake  and  jelly. 

2.  Breakfast — Corn  pone,  stewed  tripe,  potatoes  a la  Lyonnaise.  Din- 
ner — Baked  lieart,  whole  boiled  potatoes  and  carrots,  stewed  tomatoes ; 
canned  fruit  and  cake.  Supper — Toasted  pone,  cold  heart  sliced,  plain  bread, 
quince  preserves  with  whipped  cream. 

3.  Breakfast — Buckwheat  cakes,  broiled  sausage,  breakfast  hominy. 
Dinner— Roast  mutton,  mashed  potatoes,  baked  macaroni,  celery,  current 
jelly;  chocolate  blanc-mange,  sponge  cake.  Supper — Cold  mutton  sliced, 
currant  jelly,  buttered  toast,  rusk,  stewed  apples. 

4.  Breakfast — Cerealine  cakes,  broiled  bacon,  fried  potatoes.  Dinner — 
Boiled  corned  beef  with  horseradish  gravy,  whole  boiled  potatoes  and  tur- 


A year’s  rill  of  fare. 


885 


nips,  slaw  ; hot  apple  pie  with  w^hipped  cream,  oranges  and  cake.  Suj^per — 
Toasted  Graham  bread,  cold  corn  beef  sliced,  grape  jelly,  hot  buns. 

5.  Breakfast — Broiled  fish,  corn  batter  cakes,  potatoe  rissoles.  Dinner— 
Roast  beef  with  potatoes,  tomatoes,  canned  beans,  celery  sauce;  molasses 
pudding,  cake.  Supper — Cold  roast  beef,  beat  biscuit,  floating  island,  tea 
cakes. 

6.  Breakfast — Broiled  oysters  on  toast,  tomato  sauce,  flannel  cakes  with 
honey  or  maple  sju’up.  Dinner — Baked  or  broiled  fish  if  fresh,  or  friccased 
if  canned,  mashed  potatoes,  fried  parsnips,  cabbage  salad,  apple  dumplings 
with  sauce.  Supper — Creamed  codfish,  corn  mush  hot  with  milk,  canned 
fruit  and  light  cakes. 

7.  Breakfast — Broiled  mutton  chops,  fried  mush,  ?fcrambled  eggs.  Din- 
ner— Beef  soup,  whole  potatoes  boiled,  ham  boiled,  cabbage,  parsnips, 
mixed  pickles  ; cottage  pudding  with  sance,  cake-  Supper — Light  biscuit, 
cold  ham  shaved,  apple  croutes,  plain  rice  with  sugar  and  cream. 

8.  Sunday.  Breakfast — Sally  Lunn,  ham  balls,  fried  raw  potatoes. 
Dinner — Oyster  soup,  roast  duck,  potatoes  baked,  turnips  mashed,  cranberry 
sauce,  celery ; orange  ice,  oranges,  iced  cakes.  Sapper — Cold  Sally  Lunn, 
cold  duck,  dried  apples. 

9.  Breakfast — Breakfast  wheat,  croquetts  of  cold  meat  or  broiled  bacon 
with  potatoes.  Dinner — Apple  soup,  baked  potatoes,  apple  sauce,  salmi  of 
duck,  pickled  oysters,  Vjread  and  apple  pudding  with  sauce,  cake.  Supper — 
Light  biscuit,  ham  relish,  canned  fruit. 

10.  Breo.kfast — Wattles,  broiled  steak,  breakfast  potatoes.  Dinner— 
Bouillon,  baked  chicken,  potatoes,  salsify,  onion  sauce,  celery;  hot  peach 
pie  with  cream,  chocolate  cake,  oranges.  Supper — Rolls,  cold  chicken, 
apple  fritters  with  sugar. 

11.  Breakfast — Graham  gems,  fried  liver,  potatoes.  Dinner — Mutton 
soup,  boiled  mutton  with  caper  sauce,  potatoes,  canned  pease,  mixed  pickles  ; 
boiled  fruit  pudding  with  hard  sauce.  Supper — Toasted  gems,  cold  mutton 
sliced,  short  cake  and  jam. 

12.  Breakfast — Hot  pates  of  mutton  with  rich,  brown  gravy,  plain  bread, 
fried  potatoes.  Dinner — Chicken  fricassee,  boiled  tongue  dressed,  potatoes, 
boiled  onions,  tomato  sauce;  pumpkin  ])ie.  Supper— biscuit,  cold 
tongue  shaved,  charlotte  cachee  cake  and  floating  island. 

13.  Breaefast — Corn  muffins,  broiled  fish,  potatoes.  Dinner — Boiled 
turkey  with  oyster  sauce,  mashed  potatoes  and  turnips,  grape  jelly,  celery; 
roly  poly  of  dried  fruit  with  jelly  sauce,  sponge  cake.  Supper — Toasted 
muffins,  cold  turkey,  currant  jelly. 

14.  Breakfast — Buckwheat  cakes,  broiled  spare  ribs,  potato  croquettes. 
Dinner — Escaloped  turkey,  cranberry  sauce,  boiled  meat  with  cabbage,  po- 
tatoes, carrots,  pickled  beets;  apple  meringue.  Supper — Oatmeal  porridge, 
toasted  crackers,  bologna  sausage,  fried  apY)les,  cakes. 

15.  Sunday,  Breakfast — Hot  rolls,  broiled  oysters,  potatoes.  Dinner — 
Turkey  soup,  chicken  pie  with  oysters,  potatoes,  Lima  beans,  slaw,  celery; 
mince  pie,  cranberry  tarts,  oranges,  cakes.  Supper — Cold  rolls,  sliced  dried 
beef,  custard  cake  and  jelly. 

16.  Breakfast — Buttered  toast,  broiled  beef  steak,  fried  potatoes.  Din- 
ner— Bean  soup,  roast  beef  currant  jelly,  potatoes,  turnips;  pie.  Supper — 
Plain  bread,  beef  steak  toast,  rice  fritters  with  sugar. 

17.  Breakfast — Corn  cakes,  hash,  fried  potatoes.  Dinner — Roast  pork 
with  sweet  potatoes  or  parsnips,  pudding  of  canned  corn,  pickled  beets, 
apple  custard  pie,  jelly  cake.  Supper — Sardines*,  sweet  buns,  preserved  fruit 
with  whipped  cream. 

18.  Breakfast — Hot  biscuit,  broiled  pork,  fried  potatoes.  Dinner — 
Potato  soup,  mashed  potatoes,  salsify,  beef  steak  pudding,  celery;  chocolate 


886 


A year’s  bill  of  fare. 


custard,  golden  cream  cake.  Supper — Cold  biscuit,  cold  tongue,  currant 
jelly,  apple  croiites. 

19.  JJreakfa,U — Grabam  bread,  creamed  codfish,  fried  potatoes  Din- 
ner— Baked  stufted  heart,  potatoes,  tomatoes,  celery;  corn-stach  blanc- 
mange. Supper — Toasted  Graham  bread,  cold  heart  sliced,  dried  fruit 
stewed,  zephyr  cake. 

20.  Breakfast — Cream  toast,  fried  oysters,  plain  bread.  Dinner — 
Oyster  pie,  mashed  potatoes,  baked  squash",  tomato  sauce,  slaw;  hot  peach 
pie  with  whipped  cream,  cake.  Svppei — Light  biscuit,  marmalade,  bread 
and  milk. 

21.  Breakfast — Buckwheat  cakes,  broiled  siiusage,  hominy.  Dinner— 
Saturday  bean  soup,  boiled  potatoes,  ham  boiled,  cabbage,  carrots,  celery 
sauce  ; pumpkin  pie.  Supper — Plain  bread,  shaved  ham,  lemon  fritters  with 
sugar. 

:.2.  Sunday.  Breakfast — Baked  beans  and  Boston  brown  bread,  fried 
apples  and  dried  corn  fritters.  Dinner — Oyster  soup,  roast  of  mutton,  baked 
potatoes,  Lima  beans,  tomatoes,  salsify,  cranberry  jelly,  celery,  mayonnaise 
of  salmon  ; mince  pie,  ambrosia  and  fruit  cake.  Supper — High  roils,  mutton, 
currant  jelly,  chocolate  blanc-mange.  Yule  cake. 

23.  Breakfast — Beat  liiscuit,  mutton  warmed  in  butter,  or  broiled  fish, 
croquettes  of  cold  vegetables.  Dinner — Beef  a la  mode,  mashed  potatoes  and 
turnips,  boiled  rice,  cottage  pudding,  cake.  Supper — Cold  biscuit,  dried 
beef,  apple  tapioca  pudding. 

24.  Breakfast — Bice  cake,  pigs’  feet  souse,  potato  cakes.  Dinner — Am- 
ber soup,  chicken  pie,  stewed  onions,  turnips,  pickled  beets ; boiled  batter 
juidding  with  cream  sauce.  Supper — Buttered  toast,  baked  apples  and  whip- 
ped cream,  teacakes 

25.  Breakfast — Corn  batter  cakes,  broile’d  bacon,  boiled  eggs.  Dinner — 
Roast  turkey,  mashed  potatoes,  turnips,  canned  pease,  cranberry  sauce, 
celery ; poor  man’s  pudding,  cranberry  tarts.  Supper — Light  biscuit,  cold 
turkey,  tea  rusk,  canned  fruit. 

2(3.  Breakfast — Sally  Liinn,  broiled  steak,  fried  potatoes.  Dinner — Boil- 
ed mutton  with  soup,  mashed  potatoes,  canned  corn,  tomatoes,  celery,  apple 
sauce ; Ijread  pudding  with  fruit,  cocoanut  cake.  Supper — Cold  mutton, 
toasted  rusk,  jelly. 

27.  Breakfast — Hot  rolls,  turkey  hash  and  potatoes  rissoles.  Dinner — 
Turkey  soup,  baked  or  boiled  fish,  meat  pie,  mashed  potatoes,  plain  rice, 
salsify  ; prune  pudding  with  whipped  cream,  cake.  Supper — Cold  rolls,  fish 
balls,"  apple  fritters  with  sugar. 

28.  Breakfast — Bread  puffs,  broiled  spare  ribs  or  bacon,  creamed  pota- 
toes. Dinner — Saturday  bean  soup,  boiled  shoulder  of  ham  with  cabbage, 
potatoes,  parsnips,  carrots,  pickled  beets ; lemon  pie.  Supper — Bread  and 
milk  hot,  cold  ham,  jelly  and  cake. 

29.  Sunday.  Breakfast — Baked  beans  and  Boston  brown  bread,  fried 
potatoes,  omelet.  Dinner — Stewed  oysters,  baked  chicken,  mashed  potatoes, 
cabbage  saiad.  celery,  cheese  ramakins ; charlotte  russe,  cranberry  tarts, 
oranges,  cakes  and  nuts.  Supper — Muffins,  cold  chicken,  grape  jelly,  cocoii- 
nut  cake  and  fruits. 

Bill  of  Fare  for  IVIarcli. 

1.  Breakfast — Cream  toast,  chicken  croquettes,  boiled  eggs.  Dinner — 
Beefsteak  pudding,  stewed  salsify,  baked  potatoes,  lobster  salad,  celery  ; one- 
two-three-four  pudding,  jelly  cake,  nuts,  raisins.  Supper — Light  biscuit, 
codfish  with  cream,  canned  fruit  and  jelly  roll 

2.  Breakfast — Hot  rolls,  broiled  mutton  chops,  fried  potatoes.  _ Dinner — 
Oyster  soup,  roast  beef  with  potatoes,  kidney  beans  saihe,  horseradish  sauce ; 
cream  pie,  sponge  cake.  Supper — Cold  roils,  sliced  beef,  jam. 


A YEARNS  BILL  OP  FARE. 


887 


3.  Breal'fast — Corn  muffins,  broiled  fish,  escaloped  eggs.  Dinner — Boil- 
ed salt  cod  with  mashed  potatoes,  canned  pease,  cabbage  salad;  baked  cos- 
tard, cake.  Supper — Bolomia  sausage  sliced,  broiled  and  buttered  ; hot  plain 
bread,  toasted  rusk,  raspberry  jam. 

4.  Breakfast — Muffins,  broiled  beefsteak,  breakfast  hominy.  Dinner — 
Soup  of  beef  bones  and  vegetables  to  taste,  oyster  pie,  mashed  potatoes, 
stewed  celery,  pickled  beets ; steamed  batter  pudding  with  rich  sauce,  cake. 
Supper — Toasted  muffins,  cold  sliced  beef,  baked  apples  hot,  and  tea  cakes. 

5.  Breakfast. — Yankee  dried  beef,  poached  eggs  on  buttered  toast,  plain 
bread.  Dinner — Baked  fish,  lemon  sauce,  mashed  potatoes,  spinach,  orange 
pudding  with  jelly  sauce,  cake.  Sapper — Plain  bread,  broiled  scotch  her- 
ring, crackers  split,  toasted  and  buttered,  short  cake  with  jelly. 

6.  Breakfast — Corn  pone  or  griddle  cakes,  fried  beefsteak,  fried  onions. 
Dinner — Beef  a la  mode,  potatoes  Kentucky  style,  carrots  saute,  cabbage 
slaw  wdth  cream  dressing,  mixed  pickles,  Italian  cream  and  cake.  Supjyer — 
Cold  pone  sliced  and  toasted,  or  plain  bread  toasi,  cold  beef  sliced,  warm 
ginger-bread  and  farina  blanc-mange. 

7.  Sunday.  Breakfast — Sally  Lunn,  broiled  ham,  tomato  omelet.  Dm- 
ner — Stewed  oysters,  roast  mutton,  mashed  potatoes,  canned  pease,  currant 
jelly,  celery;  moonshine,  oranges,  nuts  and  cakes.  Supper — Cold  meat 
shaved,  sponge  cakes  and  preserved  fruit. 

8.  Breakfast — Batter  cakes,  mutton  warmed  over,  potatoes,  escaloped 
eggs.  Dinner — Boiled  beef’s  tongue  dressed  with  sauce  piquante,  stewed 
potatoes,  boiled  onions ; half-hour  pudding.  Supper — Cold  biscuit,  shaved 
tongue,  orange  float. 

9.  Breakfast — Buttered  toast,  pork  chops  broiled,  hominy  grits.  Din- 
ner— Tomato  soup,  pigeon  pie,  diced  potatoes,  canned  corn  or  beans,  pickles  ; 
steamed  pudding  with  sauce,  almonds,  raisins.  Supper — Plain  bread,  sar- 
dines with  lemon,  light  coffee  cake  or  sweet  buns  and  jam. . 

10.  Breakfast — Flannel  cakes,  mutton  chops  broiled,  potatoes.  Dinner 
Beefsteak  soup,  broiled  steak,  potatoes  boiled  vdiole,  salsify,  oyster  salad, 
sweet  pickles,  transparent  pudding,  cream  puffs,  oranges.  Supper — Beat 
biscuit,  cold  meat,  apple  fritters  with  sugar,  sponge  cake. 

11.  Breakfast — Graham  bread,  broiled  fish,  potatoes.  Dinner — Corned 
beef  boiled  with  turnips  or  parsnips,  canned  corn,  boiled  onions,  horse-rad- 
ish sauce  : cocoanut  pie.  Supper — Toasted  graham  bread,  cold  beef  shaved, 
warm  rusk  and  jelly. 

12.  Breakfast.  Corn  batter  cakes,  broiled  bacon,  boiled  eggs,  or  omelet 
souffle.  Dinner — Baked  or  boiled  fish  or  steaks  of  halibut,  mashed  potatoes, 
stewed  carrots,  onion  sauce ; eggless  ice  cream,  apples  and  nuts.  Supper — 
Pates  of  fish,  oyster  roll,  toasted  rusk  and  sweet  omelet. 

13.  Breakfast — Bread  puffs,  ham  puffs,  potatoes.  Dinner — Saturday 
bean  soup,  escaloped  oysters,  tomatoes,  pickled  beets;  kiss  pudding  with 
sauce,  cake.  Supper — French  rolls  ; cold  tongue,  bread  fritters. 

14.  Sunday.  Breakfast — Baked  beans  with  pork  and  Boston  brown 
bT-ead,  omelet.  Dinner — Roast  turkey,  potatoes,  canned  coim,  plum  jelly, 
young  lettuce  broken  up  {not  cut)  heaped  lightly  in  a dish  and  ornamented 
with  sliced  eggs;  Charlotte  russe,  jelly  and  sponge  cake.  Supper — Cold 
turkey,  cranberry  jelly,  canned  fruit,  jam  and  cake. 

15.  Breakfast — Buttered  toast  with  poached  eggs,  Inotiola  potatoes, 
fried  onions.  Dnner — Roast  beef,  potatoes  boiled  in  jackets,  onion  sauce, 
steamed  rice,  mixed  pickles ; birds-nest  pudding.  Supper — Light  biscuit, 
broiled  oysters,  orange  souffle,  and  plain  cake. 

16.  Breakfast — Rice  cakes,  breakfast  stew,  baked  eggs.  Dinner — Meat 
pie,  mashed  potatoes,  macaroni  with  cheese ; peach  rolls.  Supper — Plain 
bread,  dried  beef,  whipped  cream  with  preserved  fruit. 


888 


A YEARNS  BILL  OF  FARE. 


17.  Breakfast— Hoi  rolls,  broiled  beef  steak,  castle  potatoes.  Dinner— 
Boiled  legof  mutton  with  soup,  stuffed  potato,  parsnips,  sweet  pickles ; bread 
pudding,  cake.  Supper — Cold  rolls,  shaved  mutton,  boiled  corn  mush  or 
hasty  pudding  with  milk. 

18.  Breakfast— V\u\n  bread,  fried  mush,  broiled  bacon,  breakfast  pota- 
toes. Dinner — Roast  duck,  baked  potatoes,  stewed  tomatoes,  currant,  plum 
or  grape  jelly;  corn-starch  pie.  Supper — Buttered  toast,  cold  duck,  jelly 
and  cream  cakes. 

19.  Breakfast — Graham  gems,  broiled  shad  or  mackerel  with  cream 
dressing  (salt  fish  should  be  gently  steamed,  never  boiled),  boiled  eggs. 
Dinner — Salmi  of  duck,  or  duck  pates  hot  with  gravy,  steamed  potatoes, 
turnips,  celery  sauce;  turret  cream,  jelly  cake,  nuts,  raisins.  Supper — 
Toasted  gems,  bologna  sausage,  tea  buns,  stewed  prunes  or  other  dried 
fruit. 

20.  Breakfast— Lunn,  broiled  mutton  chops,  baked  omelet.  Din- 
ner—-Bacon  boiled,  cabbage  sprouts,  potatoes,  parsnips,  pickled  beets;  tart- 
lets of  dried  fruit,  w\arm  ginger-cake.  Supper — Toasted  Sally  Lunn.  cold 
pressed  meat,  rice  fritters  with  sugar,  jelly. 

22.  Breakfast — Plain  bread,  chicken  pafes  hot,  puff  omelet.  Dinner. — 
Roast  beef,  potatoes,  tomatoes,  canned  corn,  Yorkshire  pudding,  pickled 
beets;  Monday  pudding,  cake.  ^Supper— Buttered  toast,  cold  beef  sliced, 
bread  fritters  with  sugar,  jelly. 

23.  Breakfast — Hot  rolls,  fried  liver,  boiled  eggs.  Dinner — Soup  (made 
of  bones  of  previous  days’  roast  with  vegetables  or  noodles),  oyster  pie, 
mashed  potatoes,  turnips,  celery  sauce ; iced  apples,  cake.  Supper — Cold 
rolls,  mince  of  cold  beef  escaloped  with  eggs,  coffee  cake. 

24.  Breakfast — Muffins,  broiled  ham,  hen’s  nest.  Dinner — Boiled  leg 
of  mutton,  whole  potatoes,  canned  peas;  queen  of  puddings  with  sauce, 
cake.  Supper — Toasted  muffins,  cold  mutton,  currant  jelly,  Florida  grape 
fruit. 

25.  Breakfast — French  pancakes,  sausage,  hominy.  Dinner — Roast 
duck,  bread  sauce,  parsnips,  baked  onions,  lettuce  ; peach  dumplings  with 
sauce,  cake.  Supper — Plain  bread,  Welsh  rarebit,  hot  rusk,  marmalade. 

26.  Breakfast — Corn  muffins,  fried  ham  and  eggs.  Dinner — Fresh  fish, 
duchesse  potatoes,  salmi  of  duck,  onion  sauce,  boiled  rice,  grape  jelly; 
lemon  dumplings,  dried  figs  and  nuts.  Supper— Toasted  muffins,  cold 
pressed  meat,  cold  rusk,  stewed  fruit. 

27.  Breakfast — Graham  bread,  croquettes  of  fish,  omelet  with  parsley. 
Dinner — Boiled  corn  beef,  potatoes,  spinach  or  turnips,  carrots,  horseradish 
sauce  ; rice  snow  balls  with  custard  sauce,  canned  fruit  and  cake.  Supper — 
Toasted  graham  bread,  cold  corned  beef,  oatmeal  porridge  wdth  cream. 

28.  Easter  Sunday.  Breakfast — Broiled  sirloin  steak,  French  rolls  young 
radishes,  Saratoga  potatoes,  boiled  eggs,  waffles  and  honey.  Dinner — Chicken 
soup  or  green  turtle  with  Italian  paste,  fresh  fish  boiled  with  drawn  butter 
and  sliced  eggs,  or  fish  stuffed  and  baked  served  with  lemon  and  parsley, 
mashed  potatoes,  glazed  ham,  pudding  of  canned  corn,  tomato  sauce,  chicken 
salad,  pickles,  celery,  grape  jelly,  game  ; cream  pie,  assorted  cakes,  Easter 
jelly,  Easter  pudding,  fruits,  nuts  and  coffee.  Supper  or  Luncheon — Cold 
rolls,  cream  biscuit,  cold  ham,  currant  jelly,  oysters  baked  on  shell,  cakes 
and  fruit,  chocolate  or  tea,  ribbon  jelly. 

29.  Breakfast — Plain  bread,  escafope  of  cold  ham  with  eggs,  potatoes. 
Dinner — Roast  beef,  potatoes,  turnips,  cabbage  salad ; cottage  pudding  wdth 
sauce,  cake.  Supper — Warm  bread  and  milk,  cold  meat,  preserved  tarts. 

30.  Breakfast--OoYn  cakes,  roulades  of  cold  roast  beef,  potatoes.  Din^ 
ner — Soup,  roast  of  mutton,  potatoes,  tomatoes,  lettuce  dressed;  lemon  pie. 
Supper — Beat  biscuits,  cold  mutton,  preserved  fruit,  plain  cake. 


A YEARNS  BILL  OF  FARE. 


889 


31 . Breakfast — Flannel  cakes,  broiled  ham,  stuffed  eggs.  Dinner — Boiled 
tongue,  mutton  stew  with  potatoes,  steamed  rice ; lemon  pudding,  cake, 
, 'Supper — Cold  biscuit,  shaved  tongue,  rice  fritters  with  sugar. 

Bill  of  Bare  for  April. 

1.  Breakfast — Long  breakfast  rolls,  broiled  porter-house  steak,  hominy 
croquettes.  Dinner — Chicken  soup,  chicken  dressed  with  egg  sauce,  whole 
potatoes,  spinach,  ymung  lettuce  and  onions,  sweet  pickles ; orange  float, 
caramel,  cake.  Supper — Cold  chicken  and  currant  jelly,  cold  roils,  snow 
custard,  cake. 

2.  Breakfast — Fried  frogs,  fried  potatoes,  corn  gems,  scrambled  eggs. 
Dinner — Beefsteak  soup,  beefsteak  pudding,  steamed  potatoes,  mashed  tur- 
nips, slaw;  almond  custard,  jelly.  Supper — Plain  bread,  pates  of  cold 
chicken,  hot  short-cake  and  jam. 

3.  Breakfast — Graham  bread,  veal  cutlets,  fricassed  potatoes.  Dinner 
—Boiled  ham  with  potatoes,  canned-corn  pudding,  parsnips  fried,  mixed 
pickles ; hot  pie  of  canned  peaches,  cake.  Supper — Graham  toast,  cold 
sliced  ham,  hot  rusk,  stewed  fruit. 

4.  Sunday.  Breakfast — Cream  toast,  broiled  mutton  chops,  young  rad- 
ishes, puff  omelet.  Dinner — Beef  soup,  chicken  pie,  scalloped  potatoes, 
young  lettuce  and  onions ; banana  pie,  mixed  cake.  Supper — Plain  bread, 
cold  rusk,  jelly. 

5.  Breakfast — Light  rolls,  codfish  mountain,  fried  raw  potatoes.  Dinner 
— Roast  beef,  turnips,  potatoes,  tomato  sauce,  pickled  oysters,  caramel  cus- 
tard, cake.  Supper — Cold  rolls,  cold  beef  sliced,  maple  biscuit  and  jam. 

6.  Breakfast — Muffins,  fried  liver,  fried  potatees.  Dinner — Mutton  soup, 
mutton  garnished  with  eggs,  pickles,  creamed  potatoes,  canned  tomatoes; 
bread  pudding  with  sauce,  oranges  and  caLe.  Supper — Toasted  muffins, 
sliced  mutton,  sponge  cake  and  jelly. 

7.  Breakfast — Flannel  cakes,  minced  mutton  or  broiled  chops,  breakfast 
potatoes.  Dinner — Baked  pig,  mashed  potatoes,  parsnips  fried,  lettuce; 
lemon  pudding,  jelly^  cake.  Supper — Yankee  dried  beef,  soda  biscuit  and 
honeyq  floating  island. 

8.  Breakfast — Sally  Lunn,  veai  cutlets,  potato  cakes.  Baked 

stuffed  heart,  potatoes  a la  pancake,  turnips,  canned  corn,  pickled  eggs  ; cup 
custard,  cake.  Supper — Light  biscuit,  cold  sliced  heart,  bread  fritters  with 
sugar. 

9.  Breakfast — French  rolls,  broiled  fish  if  salt,  fried  if  fresh,  fried  raw 
potatoes,  tomato  sauce.  Dinner — Baked  or  broiled  fresh  fish,  mashed  pota- 
toes, cann  ed  pease  or  beans,  lettuce,  onions ; Estelle  pudding,  jelly  tarts. 
Supper — Cold  rolls,  bologna  sausage  sliced,  steamed  crackers,  cake  and  pre- 
served fruit. 

10.  Breakfast — Batter  cakes,  broiled  chops,  scrambled  eggs,  potato  ris- 
soles. Dinner — Saturday  bean  soup,  broiled  beefsteak,  spinach,  potato  puffs, 
pickled  beets  ; half-hour  pudding  with  sauce,  oranges  and  cake.  Supper — 
Toasted  bread,  cold  tongue  sliced,  hot  buns  and  marmalade. 

1 1 . Sunday.  Breakfast — Baked  beans  and  Boston  brown  bread,  ome- 
lette with  parsley.  Dinner — Vermicelli  soup,  baked  shad  or  croquettes  of 
canned  lobster,  broiled  squabs  or  pigeon  pie,  potatoes  mashed,  turnips, 
asparagus,  spring  cresses,  dressed  lettuce,  grape  jelly;  custard  pie,  cake, 
Supper — Plain  bread,  canned  salmon,  cold  buns,  jelly,  cream  sandwiches. 

12.  Breakfast — Corn  dodgers,  fish  croquettes,  potato  balls,  boiled  eggs. 
Dinner — Roast  beef  with  potatoes,  canned  tomatoes,  pickles ; Florentine 
pudding.  Supper — Light  rolls,  cold  beef,  tea  cake. 

13.  Br^akjfast — Graham  gems,  fried  sweet-breads,  oatmeal  with  cream. 
Dmner'-  MiAtton  soup,  boiled  mutton  wdth  caper  sauce,  whole  potatoes,  plain 


890 


A YEAR’S  BILL  OF  FARE. 


boiled  rice,  lettuce ; orange  short  cake.  Sapper — Toasted  gems,  cold  mut- 
ton, jelly  and  cake. 

14.  Bfeakfast — Vienna  rolls,  fried  pickled  tripe,  rice  croquettes,  spring 
radishes.  Dinner — Chicken  pot-pie,  canned  Lima  beans,  stewed  tomatoes, 
asparagus ; Spanish  cream.  Supper — Cold  rolls,  chicken  salad,  chocolate 
tarts. 

15.  Breakfast — Batter  cakes,  veal  cutlets,  ringed  potatoes.  Dinner-^ 
Ragout  of  beef,  boiled  potatoes  in  jcickets,  canned  succotash,  wilted  lettuce; 
chocolate  custard,  oranges,  cake.  Supper — Bread,  sliced  beef,  oat  porridge. 

16.  Breakfast — Waffles,  broiled  mutton,  fricassed  potatoes.  Dinner-^ 
Lobster  soup,  baked  fish  stuffed,  baked  macaroni,  potatoes  mashed,  am- 
bushed asparagus  ; molasses  pudding.  Supper — Graham  gems,  sardines  with 
lemon,  toast. 

17.  Breakfast — Corn  griddle  cakes,  fish  balls,  scrambled  eggs.  Dinner 
— Boiled  ham  with  vegetables,  chili  sauce  ; plain  boiled  pudding  with  sauce. 
Supper — Toasted  crackers,  cold  sliced  ham,  warm  ginger  bread. 

18.  Sunday.  Breakfast — Buttered  toast  v/ith  poached  eggs,  broiled 
steak.  Dinner — Macaroni  soup,  baked  chickens,  mashed  potatoes,  lettuce 
salad  ; queen  of  puddings.  Supper — Light  biscuit,  cold  chicken,  trifle. 

19.  Breakfast — Graham  gems,  chicken  croquettes,  potatoes,  radishes, 
warmed  over  mashed  potatoes,  stewed  parsnips.  Dinner — Boiled  corn  beef, 
potatoes,  turnips,  carrots  ; canned  peaches  and  cream,  jelly  cake.  Supper — 
Toasted  gems,  cold  corned  beef  shaved,  cream  fritters. 

20.  Breakfast — Rolls,  stewed  kidneys.  Chili  sauce,  fricassed  potatoes, 
fried  parsnips.  Dinner — Split  pea  soup,  meat  pie,  tomato  sauce,  mashed 
potatoes,  lobster  croquettes,  spring  cresses  ; cottage  pudding,  tapioca  jelly, 
oranges.  S'rtpprr— Cold  rolls,  bologna  sausage,  tea  rusk  and  stewed  fruit. 

21.  Breakfast — Muffins,  breaded  veal  cutlets,  curried  eggs,  potato  cakes. 
Dinner — Roast  beef,  canned  succotash,  plain  boiled  rice  with  tomatoes, 
dressed  lettuce  ; peach  rolls  with  sauce.  Supper — Toasted  muffins,  cold  beef 
sliced,  hot  bread  and  milk. 

22.  Breakfast — Cream  toast,  broiled  ham,  boiled  eggs.  Dinner — Mutton 
soup,  mutton  garnished  with  beets  and  cresses,  stewed  parsnips,  pudding  of 
canned  corn,  asparagus  on  toast,  onions,  cheese  crusts;  orange  float,  jelly 
cake.  Supper — Soda  biscuit,  cold  mutton,  currant  jelly,  fruit  charlotte. 

23.  Breakfast — Corn  cakes,  pates  of  cold  mutton  hot  with  gravy,  fried 
raw  potatoes.  Dinner — Fricassee  of  canned  halibut  or  fresh  fish  baked, 
mashed  potatoes,  turnips  sliced;  bread  pudding,  oranges,  cake.  Supper — 
Plain  bread,  cold  beef,  steamed  crackers. 

24.  Breakfast — Graham  bread,  croquettes  of  fish,  potato  rissoles.  Din- 
ner— Ham  boiled,  potatoes,  turnips,  onion  salad ; rhubarb  pie,  cake.  Supper 
— Toasted  Graham  bread,  cold  ham,  cream  cakes. 

25.  Sunday.  Breakfast — Breakfast  rolls,  broiled  beefsteak,  omelet. 
Dinner — Barley  soup,  baked  lamb  with  mint  sauce,  stewed  parsnips,  potatoes, 
as]niragus  with  eggs,  pates  of  sweet-breads,  lettuce  mayonnaise  ; perfection 
cream  pudding,  strawberries.  Supper — Cold  rolls,  sliced  lamb,  cake,  jeUy. 

26.  Breakfast — Buttered  toast,  poached  eggs,  lamb  croquettes  hot  with 
gravy.  Dinner — Brown  stew,  baked  potatoes,  cresses,  Lima  beans,  stewed 
parsnips,  onmn  salad  ; rice  snow-balls  with  custard  sauce,  plain  cake.  Sup- 
per— Buttered  crackers  toasted,  cold  pressed  meat  lemon  fritters  with  sugar. 

27.  Breakfast — Hot  biscuit  with  honey,  mutton  chops  broiled,  fried  raw 
potatoes.  Dinner — Economical  soup  ; tapioca  ])udding.  Supper — Cold  bis- 
cuit, sliced  cold  beef,  canned  fruit  with  cream  and  cake. 

28.  Breakfast — Sally  Limn,  broiled  ham,  scrambled  eggs,  fried  potatoes. 
Dinner — Roast  beef  with  potatoes,  carrots,  parsnips,  lettuce  and  onion  salad; 
cream  pie.  Supper — Toasted  Sally  Lunn,  cold  beef  sliced,  tea  bunst  fruiL 


A year's  bill  of  fare. 


8D1 


29.  Breakfast — Vienna  rolls,  fried  fish,  fried  potatoes.  Dinner — Eoast 
loin  of  veal  with  potatoes,  lettuce,  fried  asparagus ; orange  pudding,  cake. 
Bupper — Cold  roll,  sliced  veal,  sweet  wafers. 

30.  Breakfast — Corn  cakes,  fried  liver,  breakfast  potatoes.  Dinner — 
Chicken  pot-pie,  spinach  ; Estelle  pudding  with  sauce,  kiupper — Plain  bread, 
cold  pressed  meat  or  bologna ; cream  cakes  warm. 


^Bill  of  Fare  for  Ma^^. 

1.  Breakfast — Buttered  toast,  served  with  fricassh  of  cold  boiled  or  can- 
ned fish,  boiled  eggs.  Dinner — Bacon  boiled  with  spring  greens,  potatoes, 
beets,  parsnips;  plain  boiled  rice  with  cream  sauce,  jelly  cake,  Supper — 
Steamed  crackers,  sliced  beef,  rice  fritters  with  sugar. 

2.  Sunday.  Breakfast. — Batter  cakes,  veal  cutlets,  fried  potatoes.  Din- 
ner.— Cold  bacon  garnished  with  boiled  eggs  and  beet  slices,  roast  chicken, 
mashed  potatoes,  asparagus  on  toast,  dressed  lettuce  and  young  onions ; 
strawberry  charlotte,  mixed  cake.  Suppei — Cold  rolls,  cold  chicken,  jam. 

3.  Breakfast — Light  bread,  potato  cakes,  broiled  beefsteak.  Dinner — 
Eoast  of  mutton  with  potatoes,  (lanned  tomatoes,  rhubarb  sauce,  baked  cus- 
tards, fruit  cake.  Supper — Cold  biscuit,  sliced  mutton,  currant  jelly,  sweet 
buns. 

4.  Breakfast — Corn  cakes,  fried  pickled  tripe,  breakfast  potatoes.  Din- 
ner— Boiled  beef  with  soup,  whole  potatoes,  asparagus  with  eggs  ; cocoanut 
pudding,  jelly.  Supper — Plain  bread,  cold  beef,  toasted  buns  with  strawberry 
jam  or  canned  fruit. 

5.  Breakfast — Cream  toast,  broiled  ham,  omelet.  Dinner — Boiledtongue 
with  Chili  sauce,  fricasseed  potatoes,  cresses,  boiled  asparagus;  ice  cream, 
sponge  cake.  Supper — Tea  biscuit,  shaved  tongue,  sago  jelly,  lady  cake. 

6.  Breakfast — Graham  bread,  fried  mutton  chops,  fried  raw  potatoes. 
Dinner. — Eoast  of  veal  with  potatoes,  stewed  onions,  pickled  beets;  cake 
orange  float.  Supper — Toasted  Graham  bread;  sliced  v^eal,  tea  rusks,  lemon 
jelly.^ 

7.  Breakfast — iMuffins,  broiled  beefsteak,  poached  eggs,  fried  grated 
potatoes.  Dinner — Baked  or  boiled  fish  (if  large,  or  fried  small  fish),  boiled 
potatoes  in  jackets,  curried  eggs,  lettin^e  salad,  custard  pie.  Supper — Toasted 
muffins,  cold  rusk  with  strawberries' or  marmalade. 

8.  Breakfast— pulfs  with  maple  syrup,  fricasseed  potatoes,  cro- 
quettes of  fish.  Dinner — Boiled  leg  of  mutton,  ambushed  as])aragus,  boiled 
macaroni,  potato  a la  pancake ; bread  pudding.  Supper — Cold  rolls,  cold 
mutton  sliced,  plain  boiled  rice  with  cream  and  sugar. 

9.  Sunday  Breakfast — Eice  waffles,  mutton  croquettes,  fried  raw  po- 
tatoes, buttered  eggs.  Dinner — Eoast  ])eef,  clam  pie,  new  potatoes,  tomatoes, 
dressed  lettuce,  young  beets,  Saratoga  shortcake,  snow  custard,  coffee  and 
macaroon  . Su})per — Light  roils,  cold  beef,  cake  and  jelly,  or  strav/berries. 

10.  Breakfast — Corn  batter  cakes,  broiled  bacon,  warmed  potatoes. 

Eoast  of  beef  with  potatoes,  asparagus,  cake,  oranges.  Supper — 

Plain  bread,  chipped  beef,  short  cake,  marmalade. 

11.  Breakfast — Cracked  wheat  with  cream,  broiled  beefsteak,  plain  bread, 
cottage  cheese.  Dinner — Asparagus  soup,  meat  pie,  new  ])otatoes,  pickle(l 
beets;  rhubarb  pie,  jelly  cake.  Supper — Tea  biscuit,  Yankee  dried  beef, 
sponge  cake  and  fruit. 

12.  Breakfast — Sally  Lunn,  cream  codfisli,  fried  raw  potatoes,  scrambled 
eggs.  Dinner — Pieplant  soup,  pigeon  pie,  grape  jelly,  new  i)otatoes,  tomato 
salad ; delicious  lemon  pudding,  caG>.  Supper — Toasted  Sally  Lunn,  cold 
pressed  meat,  devilled  eggs,  vanities  v.  ith  jelly. 


892 


A year’s  bill  of  fare. 


13.  Breahfast — AVarin  biscuit  with  maple  syrup,  veal  cutlets,  Saratoga 
I^otatoes.  Dinner — Beef  a la  mode,  whole  potatoes,  turnips,  beets,  lettuce  ; 
rice  pudding  with  cream  sauce,  oranges.  Supper — Cold  rolls,  sliced  beef, 
tea  cakes,  blanc-mange. 

14.  Breakfast — Corn  muffins,  broiled  fish,  tomato  sauce,  broiled  pota- 
toes. Dinner — Fresh  fish,  or  canned  halibut,  cod  or  salmon,  Swedish  po- 
tatoes, turnips,  spinach  with  eggs  ; cream  pie,  silver  cake.  Supper — Toasted 
muffins,  omelet  with  asparagus,  bread  and  milk. 

15.  Breakfast — Light  biscuit,  broiled  steak,  potatoes.  Dinner — Brown 
stew,  whole  potatoes,  beets  ; Indian  pudding  with  sauce,  lady  fingers.  Sup- 
pet — Cold  biscuit,  chipped  beef,  cream  cakes  and  jelly. 

16.  Sunday.  Breakfast — Breakfast  toast,  fried  veal  cutlets,  sliced  toma- 
toes. Dinner — Roast  of  lamb  with  mint  sauce,  currant  jelly,  new  potatoes, 
green  pease,  gelinola  salad  with  fruit;  strawberry  short  cake.  Supper — 
Light  rolls,  cold  lamb,  jelly  and  cake. 

17.  Breakfast — Plain  bread,  minced  lamb  with  poached  eggs  on  toast. 
Dinner — Meat  pie,  new  potatoes,  asparagus,  lettuce  ; cherry  pie,  lady  fingers. 
Supper — Pop-overs,  sardine  jelly,  baked  rhubarb. 

18.  Breakfast — Plain  bread,  broiled  bacon,  fried  poi.acoes.  Dinner — 
Chicken  soup,  smothered  chickens,  creamed  potatoes,  tomatoes,  half-hour 
pudding,  oranges.  Supper — AVaflles,  cold  pressed  meat,  jelly  cake. 

19.  Breakfast — Muffins,  codfish,  boiled  eggs.  Dinner — AMal  stew,  pota- 
toes mashed  or  baked,  spinach,  rhubarb  sauce ; plain  batter  pudding  with 
sauce,  cake  and  fruit.  Supper — Toasted  muffins,  cold  veal,  bachelor’s  but- 
tons. 

20.  Breakfast  — French  rolls,  warmed  over  veal  stew,  tomato  sauce. 
Dinner — Boiled  ham  with  potatoes,  asparagus,  pease,  tomato  salad;  rhubarb 
])ie.  Supper — Cold  rolls,  sliced  ham,  pan  cakes  with  jelly. 

21.  Breakfast — Corn  meal  gems,  ham  balls,  breakfast  potatoes.  Dinner 
— Baked  or  boiled  fish,  whole  boiled  potatoes, French  eggs,  lettuce  and  cress 
salad ; green  currant  pie.  jelly  cake.  Suppei — Toasted  gems,  canned  salmon, 
asparagus  on  toast,  oatmeal  pudding  with  cream  and  sugar. 

22.  Breakfast — Buttered  toast,  larded  sweet-breads,  fried  potatoes.  Din‘ 
jiQr — Larded  liver,  baked  x^otatoes,  turnix3S,_  lettuce  ; x^otato  pie,  light  cake. 
Supper — Light  biscuit,  beefeteak  toast,  marinated  x>otatoes. 

23.  Sunday.  Breakfast — Corn  dodgers,  stewed  kidneys,  omelet.  i>m- 
Yier — Strawberry  soup,  baked  chicken,  new  potatoes,  diced  turnips,  baked 
rhubarb,  green'xiease,  lettuce ; Charlotte  russe,  pine-apple  ambrosia,  cake. 
Supper — Cold  biscuit,  sliced  chicken,  preserved  fruit  and  cake. 

24.  Breakfast — Graham  gems,  chicken  croquettes,  fried  potatoes.  Din- 
ner—Rouat  beef,  boiled  onions,  lettuce,  mashed  potatoes  ; jelly  with  whipped 
cream.  Supper — Toasted  gems,  cold  beef,  rusk  and  jelly. 

25.  Breakfast — AVarm  biscuit,  broiled  bacon,  boiled  eggs.  Dinner — Boil- 
ed mutton  with  soup,  whole  potatoes,  onions,  green  pease,  lettuce,  sweet 
X^ickles ; cherry  x^ie,  cream  xRifls.  Supper — Cold  rolls,  cold  sliced  mutton, 
toasted  rusk  wdth  fruit. 

26.  Breakfast — Corn  muffins,  broiled  steak,  fried  potatoes.  Dinner — 
Boiled  bacon  with  greens  and  potatoes,  asx^aragus  rolls,  radishes,  lettuce 
salad ; bread  pudding,  oranged  strawberries.  Supper — Toasted  muffins,  cold 
tongue,  raisin  tarts. 

27.  Breakfast — Buttered  toast,  broiled  ham,  omelet  wdth  parsley.  Dhi- 

ner Chicken  pie>  fricassed  potatoes,  asparagus,  pease,  lettuce  ; poor  man’s 

pudding.  Supper — Hot  biscuit,  cottage  cheese,  stew^ed  fruit  and  cake. 

28.  Breakfast — AVaffles,  broiled  mutton  chops,  potatoes.  Dinner — Fresh 

fish  boiled,  baked  or  fried  new  potatoes,  tomatoes,  beets,  lettuce;  cottage 
pudding  with  sauce,  cake.  Oatmeal  and  cream,  stewed  cherries. 


A year’s  bill  of  fare. 


898 


29.  Breakfast — Bread  puffs  with  maple  syrup,  canned  salmon  on  toast, 
tomato  sauce.  Dinner — Ham  boiled  with  greens,  young  turnips;  rhubarb 
pie,  tapioca  jelly.  Supper — Plain  bread,  shaved  ham,  hot  buns  and  fruit. 

30.  Sunday.  Breakfast — Hot  rolls,  broiled  beefsteak,  tomato  omelet. 
Dinner— lamb  with  mint  sauce,  clam  stew, new  potatoes,  young  turnips, 
green  pease,  asparagus  salad;  ice  cream  and  strawberries,  centennial  drops, 
cake.  Supper — Cold  rolls,  shaved  ham,  toasted  buns  and  jelly. 

31.  Breakfast — Cream  toast,  croquettes  of  cold  meat,  fried  potatoes. 
Dinner— ^Iqb^X  pie,  whole  potatoes,  asparagus,  lettuce  ; steamed  Indian  pud- 
ding with  sauce,  soft  ginger-bread.  Supper— YLoX  biscuit,  cold  lamb,  cake 
and  fruit. 


Bill  of  Fare  for  J ane. 

1 Breakfast — Buttered  toast,  poached  eggs,  mutton  chops.  Dinner — 
Roast  beef,  whole  potatoes,  ambushed  asparagus,  tomato  salad  ; strawberries 
and  cream,  cake.  Supper — Light  biscuit,  cold  beef  sliced,  baked  pie-plant, 
cake. 

2.  Breakfast — French  rolls,  croquettes  of  beef,  radishes.  Dinner — Beef 
boiled  v/ith  soup,  (beef  served  with  drawn  butter,)  new  potatoes,  spinach 
with  egg  dressing,  boiled  onions,  green  currant  pie,  sponge  cake.  Supper — 
Plain  bread,  sliced  cold  beef,  sweet  pickles. 

3.  Breakfast — Corn  cakes,  broiled  ham,  tomato  omelet.  Dinner — Steam- 
ed chicken,  green  pease,  mashed  potatoes,  dressed  lettuce ; strawberries 
served  with  sugar  and  cream.  Supper — Warm  biscuit,  chipped  dried  beef, 
young  onions,  lemon  jelly. 

4.  Breakfast — Graham  bread,  fried  fish,  duchesse  potatoes.  Dinner — 
Baked  or  boiled  fresh  fish  or  lobster  fricassee,  new  potatoes,  asparagus  on 
toast;  baked  custard,  cake.  Supper — Toasted  Graham  bread,  frizzled  ham, 
raspberry  short-cake  with  cream. 

5.  Breakfast — AVafhes,  broiled  mutton  or  lamb  chops,  potatoes,  stewed 
tomatoes.  Dinner — Broiled  beefsteak,  whole  boiled  potatoes,  beets,  greens, 
onion  salad;  berries  and  cake.  Supper — Hot  biscuit,  cold  pressed  meat- 
tapioca  cream. 

6.  Sunday.  Breakfast — Twist  rolls,  fried  chicken,  potatoes,  omelet. 
Dinner — Clam  soup,  baked  lamb  with  potatoes,  green  pease,  sliced  tomatoes, 
asparagus,  lettuce  salad ; strawberry  short-cake  with  whipped  cream.  Sup- 
per— Cold  biscuit,  sliced  lamb,  fruit  and  light  cake. 

7.  Breakfast — Oranges,  corn  batter  cakes,  broiled  liver,  scrambled  eggs. 
Dinner — Roast  beef,  mashed  potatoes,  beets,  cress  salad;  plain  boiled  rice 
with  cream.  Supper — Plain  bread,  bologna  sausage,  rusk  with  berries. 

8.  Breakfast — Rice  cakes,  lamb  chops,  boiled  eggs.  Dinner  — Boiled 
beefs  tongue  (fresh)  served  with  Chili  sauce,  baked  potatoes,  jmimg  beets, 
lettuce  dressed ; raspberry  cream,  cake.  Supper — Sliced  beefs  tongue,  toast- 
ed rusk,  berries. 

9.  Breakfast — IMuffins,  beefsteak,  potato  balls.  Dinner — Soup  of  stock 
boiled  yesterday  with  tongue,  chicken  pie,  mashed  potatoes  and  turnips, 
spinach,  lettuce  ; cream  fritters  with  sauce.  Supper — Toasted  muffins,  cream 
codfish,  fruit. 

10.  Breakfast — Sally  Lunn,  veal  cutlets,  radishes.  Dinner — Ragout  of 
lamb,  mashed  potatoes,  asparagus,  lettuce  ; lemon  pudding,  cake.  Supper — 
Toasted  Sally  Lunn,  cold  slicecl  lamb,  sliced  tomatoes. 

11.  Breakfast — Vienna  rolls,  breakfast  stew,  potatoes  or  tomatoes.  Din- 
ner— Fresh  fish  fried  or  baked,  molded  potatoes,  asparagus,  beet  salad  ; rice 
pudding  with  sauce  and  cake,  oranges.  Supper — Cold  rolls,  dried  beef  chip- 
ped, custard  cake  with  fruit  or  berries. 


894 


A year’s  bill  of  fare. 


12.  Breakfast — Graham  gems,  croquettes  of  tish  or  breaded  veal  cutlets, 
escaloped  eggs.  Dinner — Ham  boiled  with  greens,  potatoes,  beets,  young 
onions  ; economical  pudding,  Italian  rolls.  Supper — Toasted  gems,  cold  ham, 
oatmeal  with  cream,  cake  and  jelly. 

18.  Sunday.  Breakfast — Light  rolls,  broiled  beefsteak,  sliced  tomatoes, 
omelets.  Dinner — Raspberry  soup,  baked  chicken,  mashed  potatoes,  green 
pease,  pickled  beets  ; strawberry  bavarian  ci’eam.  Supper — Cold  rolls,  cold 
chicken,  hjast  with  jelly,  fruit. 

14.  Breakfast — ATatlies,  croquettes  of  cold  chicken,  tomatoes.  Dinner — 
Veal  stuffed  and  bake<l,  asparagus,  tomatoes,  cresses;  strawberries  and 
cream.  Supper — Biscuit,  sliced  veal,  tomato  salad,  fruit,  light  cakes. 

15.  BreakfaM — Flannel  cakes,  pa/es  of  cold  veal,  potatoes  fried.  Din- 
ner— Boiled  corned  beef,  potatoes,  turnips,  vdlted  lettuce  ; cocoanur  pudding, 
cake.  Supper — Plain  bread,  cold  corned  beef,  corn  meal  mush  or  hasty 
pudding  with  cream 

16.  Breakfast — Fried  mush,  fried  poattoes,  broiled  bacon.  Dinner — As- 
paragus soup,  roast  clncken,  whole  potatoes,  spinach  with  eggs,  beets  and 
lettuce;  cherry  pie.  Supper — Cold  rolls,  bologna  sausage,  raspberries,  light 
cakes. 

17.  Breakfast — Corn  muffins,  pickled  tripe,  fried  potatoes.  Dinner — 
Roast  mutton,  potatoes,  green  pease,  lettuce  ; orange  souffle,  cake.  Supper — 
Toasted  muffins,  sliced  mutton,  sweet  buns,  fruit. 

18.  Breakfast — Breakfast  wheat  with  cream,  ])lain  bread,  broiled  fish. 
Dinner — Baked  fish  (fresh),  baked  potatoes,  tomatoes,  cucumbers;  boiled 
custard  and  cake.  Supper  - Cold  pressed  meat,  short-cake  with  fruit. 

19.  Buttered  toast,  poached  eggs,  broiled  mutton  chop.  Dfn* 
ner — Boiled  shoulder  of  bacon  with  greens,  potatoes,  beets,  herriiTg  salad  ; 
bread  pudding.  /S'wpper— Light  biscuits,  Yankee  dried  beef,  strawberries. 

20.  Sunday.  Breakfast — Cream  toast,  broiled  beefsteak,  boiled  eggs, 
stewed  tomatoes.  Ditmer — Fruit  soup,  iamb  cutlets  broiled  and  served  with 
green  pease,  summer  squash,  young  onions,  pickled  beets;  oranged  straw- 
berries, cakes.  Supper — Cold  biscuits,  canned  salmon,  fruit. 

21.  Breakfast — Corn  cakes,  fried  clams,  potatoes  or  hominy  croquettes. 
Dinnei — Pea  soup,  roast  beef  with  potatoes,  string  beans,  young  onions; 
raspberry  blanc-mange,  oranges  or  bananas  and  cake.  Supper — Hot  tea 
buns,  cold  beef  sliced,  cherries,  lemon  cakes. 

22.  Breakfast — Waffles,  breakfast  stew,  fried  potatoes.  Dinner — Meat 
pie,  green  pease,  potatoes,  lettuce;  raspberry  ffoat.  Supper — Cold  buns, 
chipped  dried  beef,  raspberry  cream,  cakes. 

23.  Breakfast — French  rolls,  broiled  liver,  tomatoes.  Dinner — Stewed 
lamb  with  mint  sauce,  potatoes,  squash,  beets;  strawberry  short-cake  with 
whipped  cream.  Supper — Cold  sliced  lamb,  sweet  muffi.ns  with  stewed 
cherries. 

24.  Breakfast — Graham  bread,  beefsteak  smothered  with  onions,  toma- 
toes. Dinner — Boiled  beef  with  soup,  potatoes,  string  beans  ; cherry  dump- 
ings with  sauce,  cake.  Supper — Toasted  Graham  bread,  cold  beef,  currants. 

25.  Breakfast — Corn  pone,  broiled  ham,  omelet,  hominy  fritters.  Din- 
ner— Boiled  salmon  or  some  other  variety  of  fresh  fish  either  fried,  baked  or 
fricasseed;  mashed  potatoes,  Lima  beans,  squash,  cucumbers;  oranges. 
Supper — Cold  pone  sliced  and  toasted  in  the  oven,  cold  tongue,  sponge  cake 
with  fruit. 

26.  Breakfast — Sally  Lunn,  larded  veal  cutlets,  scalloped  eggs.  Dinner 
— Boiled  ham  with  greens,  potatoes,  beet  greens ; raspberries  and  cream, 
cake.  Supper — Toasted  Sally  Lunn,  sliced  ham,  ffoating  island. 

27.  Sunday.  3reakfast — French  pancakes,  veal  and  ham  croquettes^ 
poached  eggs  on  toast.  Dinner — Fried  chicken,  cold  ham,  mashed  potatoes, 


A yeae’s  bill  of  faee. 


895 


Lima  beans,  cucumbers  ; snow  custard,  cherries,  cake.  Supper — Cold  rolls, 
sliced  chicken,  stewed  cherries  and  cake. 

28.  Breakfast — Plain  bread,  ham  balls,  potato  cakes.  Dinner — Baked 
mutton,  potatoes,  beets,  squash,  lettuce  ; quick  puff  pudding.  Supper — But- 
tered toast,  cold  mutton,  fritters  with  sugar. 

29.  Breakfast — Corn  cakes,  broiled  bacon,  boiled  eggs.  Dinner — Boiled 
corned  beef,  turnips,  potatoes,  young  beets  ; bananas  or  oranges.  Supper — 
Steamed  oatmeal,  crackers,  cold  corned  beef,  stewed  berries,  cake. 

30.  Breakfast — iVIuffins,  broiled  steak,  tomatoes.  Dinner — Fried  chicken 
7vith  cream  gravy,  potatoes,  squash,  lettuce  ; gooseberry  tarts,  corn  starch 
blanc-mange.  Supper — Light  biscuit,  bread  and  milk,  fruit  salad. 


Bill  of  Fare  For  July. 

1.  Breakfast — Warm  biscuit,  hominy  croquettes,  broiled  ham,  sliced  to- 
matoes. Dinner — Beef’s  tongue  with  green  pease,  Saratoga  potatoes,  sliced 
cucumbers;  raspberry  float,  cake.  Supper — Sliced  tongue,  hot  buns,  rasp- 
berries and  cream. 

2.  Breakfast — Corn  bread,  fried  chicken,  tomato  omelet.  Dinner— 
Boiled  fish  with  egg  sauce, mashed  potatoes,  squash;  cherry  dumplings  with 
sauce,  lady  fingers.  Supper — Cold  bacon  broiled  and  served  on  toast,  sliced 
tomatoes,  raspberry  short-cake. 

3.  Breakfast — Breakfast  puffs,  stewed  kidneys,  radishes,  young  onions. 
Dinner — Boiled  ham  with  young  cabbages,  potatoes,  cucumbers ; bread  cus- 
tard pudding,  cake.  ISupper — Cold  rolls,  sliced  ham,  fried  tomatoes,  rusk 
with  stewed  currants. 

4.  Sunday.  Breakfast — Fresh  berries  with  cream  and  sugar,  broiled 
Spanish  mackerel,  buttered  toast,  omelet  souffle,  flannel  cakes  with  syrup. 
Dinner — Pea  soup,  roast  tenderloin  of  beef,  new  potatoes,  tomatoes,  lettuce 
ala  Mayonnaise, cucumber  sliced,  pine-apple  pudding,  ice-cream,  cake.  Sup- 
per— Small  light  biscuit,  sliced  ham,  almond  flowers,  cake  and  berries. 

5.  Breakfast — Graham  gems,  broiled  mutton  choi)s,  fried  potatoes,  cot- 
tage cheese.  Dinner — Ragout  of  beef,  boiled  potatoes,  young  onions,  toma- 
toes ; rice  pudding,  oranges,  cake.  Supper — Toasted  gems,  ham  salad,  stewed 
berries,  sweet  buns. 

6.  Breakfast— blot  muffins,  broiled  beefsteak,  boiled  eggs.  Dinner — 
Meat  pie,  boiled  potatoes,  boiled  cauliflower  with  sauce ; cherry  souffle,  cake. 
Supper — Toasted  muffins,  bologna  sausage  sliced,  raspberries. 

7.  Breakfast — Batter  cake,  breakfast  bacon,  cracked  wheat  with  cream. 
Dinner — Stuffed  fillet  of  veal  garnished  with  green  pease  mashed  potatoes, 
Bummer  squash,  beet  salad,  blackberries,  cream  and  cake.  Supper — Cold 
rolls,  sliced  veal,  short-cake  with  berries  or  jam. 

8.  Breakfast — Cream  toast,  poached  eggs,  broiled  ham.  Dinner — Rice, 
soup,  boiled  corned  beef,  potatoes,  tomatoes,  cucumber  salad ; ripe  currant 
pie,  cake.  Supper — Plain  bread,  cold  corned beef^  steamed  crackers,  stewed 
fruit 

9.  Breakfast — Hash,  fried  potatoes,  stewed  tomatoes  with  toast.  Dinner 
— Fresh  fish  either  baked,  boiled  or  fried,  green  beans  stewed  with  pork, 
boiled  potatoes,  cucumber  salad;  cherry  pie,  cake.  Supper — Warm  biscuit, 
ham  omelet,  light  cakes  and  jelly  or  berries. 

10.  Breakfast — Waffles,  broiled  beefsteak,  scrambled  eggs.  Dinner — 
Roast  beef  with  potatoes,  beets,  cucumbers,  dressed  lettuce  ; cup  custards, 
oranges,  cake.  Supper — Plain  bread,  oatmeal  with  cream,  sliced  banana  or 
pine-apple. 

11.  Sunday.  Breakfast — Graham  bread,  broiled  mutton  chops,  potato 
.cakes.  Dinner — Baked  chicken,  mashed  potatoes,  cucumbers,  dressed  let- 


896 


A year’s  bill  of  fare. 


tiice,  vanilla  ice  cream,  blackberries,  cake.  Supper — Toast  of  Graham  bread, 
sliced  chicken  cold,  cream  cakes  and  jelly. 

12.  Breakfast — Batter  cakes,  broiled  ham,  tomato  omelet,  radishes. 
Dinner — Baked  lamb,  green  pease,  baked  potatoes,  squash ; rice  custard,  ber- 
ries with  cream.  Supper — Biscuit,  cold  lamb  sliced,  ripe  currants  with  cream. 

13.  Breakfast — Rice  muffins,  hash,  tomatoes.  Dinner — Economical  soup  ; 
blackberry  pudding  with  sauce,  cake.  Supper — Buttered  toast,  cold  sliced 
meat,  blackberries  with  cream. 

14.  Breakfast — French  rolls,  vegetable  hash,  broiled  beefsteak,  cottage 
cheese.-  Dinner — Mock  (or  real)  turtle  soup,  baked  heart,  baked  potatoes, 
stewed  beans  ; chocolate  pudding,  cocoanutcake.  Supper — Cold  rolls,  sliced 
heart,  Boston  cream  puffs,  stewed  berries. 

15.  Breakfast — Cream  toast,  fried  liver,  fricasseed  potatoes.  Dinner — 
Clam  pie,  mashed  potatoes,  string  beans,  lettuce;  blackberry  pie,  cake. 
Supper — Plain  bread,  dried  beef  frizzled,  rice  batter  cakes  with  sugar. 

16.  Breakfast — Muffins,  broiled  mutton  chops,  fried  potatoes.  Dinner — 
Fish  fresh  or  canned,  whole  potatoes,  pease,  squash,  lettuce  ;Hamburg cream. 
Supper — Toasted  muffins,  cold  pressed  meat,  corn  meal  mush  with  cream. 

17.  Breakfast — Plain  bread,  veal  sweet-breads,  fried  mush,  boiled  eggs. 
Dhme'- — Boiled  ham  with  potatoes,  cabbage,  string  beans;  warm  ginger- 
bread, lemonade.  Supper — Dry  toast,  cold  ham  shaved,  rusk,  blackberries 
and  cream. 

18.  Sunday.  Breakfast — Vienna  rolls,  fried  chicken  wdth  cream  gravy, 
fried  tomatoes,  cottage  cheese.  Dinner — R-oastof  beef  with  potatoes,  stewed 
tomatoes,  cucumbers,  wilted  lettuce  ; Charlotte  russe,  cake.  Supper — Cold 
rolls,  sliced  beef,  blackberries. 

19.  Breakfast — Butterd  toast  with  poached  eggs,  cold  roast  beef  sliced 
and  warmed  up  with  gravy,  ])otatoes  fried.  Dinner — Veal  stuffed  and  baked 
with  potatoes,  pease;  tapioca  pudding.  Supper — Light  biscuit,  cold  veal, 
cracked  wheat  and  cream. 

20.  Breakfast — Slap-jacks,  veal  cutlets,  breakfast  hominy.  Dinner — Mut- 
ton soup,  boiled  mutton  dressed  with  drawn  butter,  wdiole  potatoes,  toma- 
toes, l)eet  salad  ; whortleberry  pudding  with  sauce,  cake.  Supper — Soda  bis- 
cuit, cold  mutton,  jelly  and  cake. 

21.  Breakfast — Graham  gems,  croquettes  of  mutton,  iieAV  potatoes  fried 
whole.  Dinner — Boiled  tongue,  mashed  potatoes,  tomatoes  stewed;  black- 
berries and  cream.  *S’wpper— Pop-overs,  cold  tongue,  oatmeal  and  cream. 

22.  Breakfast — Fruit,  Vienna  rolls,  beefsteak,  potato  cake.  Dinner — 
Chicken  croquettes,  potatoes,  tomatoes,  onion  sauce  ; tapioca  jelly,  oranges. 
Supper — Cold  rolls,  sliced  chicken,  stewed  berries,  short  cake. 

23.  Breakfast — Sally  Lunn,  broiled  fish,  fried  raw  potatoes.  Dinner — 
Fresh  fish  chowder  or  canned  fish  in  fricassee,  potatoes  whole,  pease,  baked 
egg  plant,  boiled  rice  ; goosel)erryfoo],  cake,  tapper— Toasted  Sally  Lunn, 
cofd  pressed  meat,  rice  custard,  sponge  cake. 

24.  Breakfast — Rice  waffles,  veal  cutlets  breaded,  scrambled  eggs.  Din- 
— Ham  or  shoulder  boiled  with  cabbage  and  other  vegetables,  greens ; 

baked  custard,  cake.  Supper — Biscuits,  cold  ham,  bread  and  milk  iced,  black- 


berries with  cream. 

25.  Sunday.  Breakfast— breakfast  rolls,  frizzled  ham  and  eggs, 
tomato  omelet,  cottage  cheese.  Dinner — Okra  soup,  boiled  chicken,  sweet 
pickles,  escaloped  cauliflower,  stewed  corn,  lettuce;  ambrosia  of  oranges 
and  cocoanut,  almond  cakOo  Supper— Qold  rolls,  sliced  chicken,  huckle- 
berries and  cream. 

26.  Breakfast. — Rolls,  fried  pickled  tripe,  tomato  omelet.  Dinner — Es- 
calope'd  chicken,  whole  potatoes,  string  beans,  summer  squash,  onions,  rad- 
ishes ; berries  with  cream,  cake.  Supper — Plain  bread,  cold  pressed  meat, 
sliced  beef,  cake  and  lemonade. 


A year’s  bill  of  fare. 


897 


27.  Breakfast — Muffins,  broiled  mutton  or  lamb  chops,  fried  potatoes, 
tomatoes.  Dinner — Roast  beef,  cauliflower  boiled  with  sauce,  Lima  beans, 
raw  tomatoes ; huckleberry  roll  with  sauce,  cake.  Supper — Toasted  muffins, 
sliced  beef,  cake  and  lemonade. 

28.  Breakfast — Cream  toast,  broiled  beefsteak,  pufl*  omelet,  stewed  to- 
matoes. Dirmer—Boiled  corned  beef  with  turnips,  potatoes,  beans,  cabbage  ; 
sliced  bread  pudding,  cake.  Supper — Light  biscuit,  cold  corned  beef,  egg  rolls. 

29.  Breakfast — Waffles,  fried  chicken,  fricassed  potatoes.  Dinner-^ 
Roast  chicken,  potatoes,  squash,  baked  tomatoes;  gooseberry  tarts,  cake. 
Supper — Plain  bread,  cold  chicken,  jelly  and  cake. 

30.  Breakfast — Graham  gems,'  broiled  ham  with  poached  eggs.  Dinner— 
Fish,  fresh  or  canned,  potatoes  mashed,  onions  stewed  with  cream,  Lima 
beans,  lettuce;  huckleberry  pie,  cream  pufifs.  Supper — Graham  toast,  sar- 
dines, vanities  with  Jelly. 

31.  Breakfast — Buttered  toast,  potato  cakes,  omelet  with  tomatoes. 
Dinner — Boiled  ham  or  shoulder  with  cabbage,  potatoes  and  other  vegetables, 
cucumber  salad ; custard  pie.  Supper — Light  biscuit,  shaved  ham,  almond 
custard  and  cake. 

Bill  of  Fare  for  Aagnst. 

1.  Sunday.  Breakfast  — Nutmeg  melon,  broiled  mackerel,  potatoes 
whole,  buttered  toast,  flanuel  cakes  with  syrup.  Dinner — Chicken  soup, 
roast  tenderloin  of  beef,  new  potatoes,  boiled  corn  in  the  ear ; blackberry 
pie.  Gopher  orange  ice,  cake,  watermelon.  Supper — Light  biscuit,  sliced  cold 
beef,  chicken  sandwiches,  cake  and  berries. 

2.  Breakfast — Graham  gems,  broiled  mutton  chops,  fried  potatoes,  sliced 
cucumbers.  Dinner — Roast  beef,  boiled  potatoes,  macaroni  with  cheese, 
young  beets,  tomatoes  ; rice  pudding,  cake.  Supper — Toasted  gems,  dried 
beef  frizzled,  stewed  berries,  sweet  buns. 

3.  Breakfast~H.ot  muffins,  broiled  beefsteak,  stuffed  eggs.  Dinner^ 
Meat  pie,  boiled  potatoes,  green  corn  pudding,  dressed  lettuce  ; watermelon. 
Supper — Toasted  muffins,  chipped  dried  beef,  cold  buns,  coffee  jelly  and 
blackberries. 

4.  Breakfast — Light  rolls,  mutton  chops  breaded,  crushed  oatmeal  with 

cream.  Dinner — Stuffed  fillet  of  veal,  mashed  potatoes,  summer  squash, 
boiled  beets  sliced ; lemon  meringue  pie,  cake.  Supper — Cold  rolls,  sliced 
veal,  warm  biscuit  and  honey.  ^ 

' 5.  Breakfast — Fried  chicken,  whole  boiled  potatoes,  onions  and  radish- 
es. Dinner — Vegetable  soup,  boiled  corned  beef,  potatoes,  corn,  wilted  let- 
tuce ; chess  pie,  cake.  Supper — Plain  bread,  cold  corned  beef,  stewed  fruit. 

6.  Breakfast — Breakfast  stew,  fried  potatoes,  fried  cabbage.  Dinner — 
Gumbo  soup,  fresh  fish  baked  or  boiled,  succotash,  boiled  potatoes  ; berries. 
Supper — Warm  biscuit,  breaded  herring,  potato  slaw  and  lemon  jelly. 

7.  Breakfast — Waffles,  broiled  beefsteak,  scrambled  eggs.  Dinner — 
Boiled  ham  with  potatoes,  turnips  and  cabbage  ; apple  sauce,  jelly  cake.  Sup- 
per— Plain  bread,  sliced  ham,  cracked  wheat. 

8,  Sunday.  Breakfast — Nutmeg  melon,  broiled  veal  cutlets,  vegetable 
hash,  corn  fritters.  Dinner — Chicken  pudding,  cold  sliced  ham,  baked  mash- 
ed potatoes,  sliced  tomatoes,  cucumbers  ; watermelon.  Supper — Light  bis- 
cuit, cold  sliced  ham,  cream  cakes  and  jelly. 

9,  Breakfast — Batter  cakes,  baked  codfish,  tomato  omelet.  Dinner--^ 
Baked  lamb,  creamed  cabbage,  stewed  tomatoes ; cream  pudding.  Supper — 
Biscuit,  cold  lamb  sliced,  preserve  puffs. 

16.  Breakfast — Plain  bread,  hash,  stewed  tomatoes.  Dinnei — Beef  a la 
boiled  potatoes,  green  corn  pudding,  sliced  tomatoes;  tapioca  cream. 
Supper — Buttered  toast,  cold,  pressed  meat,  chocolate  custard » 

57 


898 


year’s  bill  of  fare. 


11.  Breakfast. — Frencti  rolls,  broiled  beefsteak,  cottage  cheese.  Dinner—' 
Corn  soup  with  chicken,  celery,  mashed  potatoes,  stewed  beans,  sliced  cu- 
cumbers and  onions ; watermelon.  Supper — Cold  rolls,  chicken  salad,  apple 
sauce,  bonny  clabber. 

12.  Breakfast — Cream  toast,  fried  liver,  potato  cakes,  stewed  tomatoes. 
Dinner — Roast  leg  of  mutton  with  potatoes, green  corn,  tomatoes ; muskmelon. 
Supper — Plain  bread,  frizzled  dried  beef,  boiled  rice  with  cream. 

13.  Breakfast — Rice  cakes,  mutton  stew,  fried  potatoes.  Dinner — Meat 
pie,  stewed  corn,  boiled  cauliflower ; grapes,  plain  cake.  Supper — Toast,  cold 
pressed  meat,  Graham  mush  with  cream. 

14.  Breakfast — Plain  bread,  broiled  bacon,  Graham  mush  fried,  boiled 
eggs.  Dinner — Boiled  ham  with  potatoes,  cabbage,  string  beans;  lemon  pie, 
cake.  Supper — Light  biscuit,  cold  ham  shaved,  apple  sauce. 

15.  Sunday.  Breakfast — Nutmeg  melons,  fried  chicken  with  cream 
gravy,  fried  tomatoes,  cottage  cheese,  corn  fritters.  Dinner — Roast  loin  of 
veal,  mashed  potatoes,  creamed  cabbage,  egg  terrace,  tomatoes ; watermelon* 
Supper — Cold  rolls,  sliced  veal. 

16.  Breakfast — Buttered  toast  with  poached  eggs,  cold  roast  veal  sliced 
and  warmed  up  with  gravy,  potatoes  fried.  Dinner — Roast  beef  with  pota- 
toes, pease,  tomatoes,  corn  pudding,  lettuce  ; watermelon.  Supper — Light 
biscuit,  cold  sliced  beef,  apple  snow. 

17.  Breakfast — Nutmeg  melon,  corn  oysters,  broiled  bacon.  Dinner— 
Broiled  prairie  chicken  with  currant  jelly,  browned  po'tatoes,  sliced  tomatoes ; 
cake,  orange  float.  Supper — Spoon  biscuit,  cold  beef,  jelly  and  cake. 

18.  Breakfast — Corn  gems,  croquettes  of  .mutton,  fried  apples,  fried  pota- 
toes. Dinner — Boiled  tongue,  whole  boiled  potatoes,  tomatoes  stewed; fried 
jananas.  Supper — Toasted  bread,  cold  tongue,  oatmeal  with  cream. 

19.  Breakfast — Breakfast  rolls,  fried  sweet-breads,  fried  potatoes.  Din- 
ner— Brown  stew,  baked  notatoes,  stewed  corn,  escaloped  tomatoes ; water' 
melon.  Supper — SUced  cold  beef,  biscuit,  floating  island. 

20.,  Breakfast — Nutmeg  melon,  J^ally  Lunn,  broiled  beefsteak,  potatoes. 
Dinner'— flsh  chowder,  potatoes  whole,  pease,  boiled  onions,  tomato 
salad  ; fanchonettes,  cake.  Supper — Toasted  Sally  Lunn,  cold  pressed  meat, 
egg  gems,  rnonge  cake  and  jelly  with  whipped  cream. 

21.  Breakfast — Bread  puffs,  veal  cutlets  breaded,  scrambled  eggs.  Din- 
ner.— Hdr  > or  shoulder  boiled  with  cabbage  and  other  vegetables,  beets  sliced, 
baked  cui'/fard.  Supper — Warm  biscuit,  cold  ham,  bread  and  milk  iced. 

22,  Sunday.  Breakfast — Nutmeg  melons,  breakfast  rolls,  cold  boiled 
ham,  sh/t  ved,  tomato  omelet,  corn  oysters.  Dinner — Okra  soup,  fried  gumbo, 
boiled  "2 Vdcken,  sweet  pickles,  cabinet  pudding ; ice-cream  cake.  Supper — 
Cold  r<7y/s,  sliced  chicken,  rice  with  sugar  and  cream. 

23  Breakfast — Rice  cakes,  broiled  breakfast  bacon,  fried  cabbage.  Dm- 
ner'-Vscaloped  chicken,  whole  potatoes,  string  beans,  boiled  corn  in  the 
ear  ,,  vatermelon,  plain  cake.  Supper — Hot  biscuit,  cold  pressed  meat,  fried 
apjdes. 

24.  Breakfast — Muffins,  broiled  mutton  or  lamb  chops,  rice  croquettes 
with  gravy.  Dinner — Roast  beef  with  potatoes,  cauliflower  with  sauce,  Lima 
beans,  raw  tomatoes ; baked  apples  with  cream.  Supper — Toasted  muffins, 
sliced  beef,  lemon  jelly. 

' 25.  Breakfast — Cream  toast,  broiled  steak,  fricassed  potatoes . Dinner — 

Broiled  corned  beef  with  turnips,  potatoes,  stewed  beans ; bread  pudding 
with  custard,  cake.  Supper — Light  biscuit,  cold  corned  beef,  apple  fritters 
with  sugar. 

26.  Breakfast — Waffles,  fried  chicken  with  corn  dodgers,  stewed  toma- 
toes. Dinner — Broiled  prairie  chicken  with  currant  jelly,  mashed  potatoes, 
creamed  cabbage ; mock  strawberries,  cake.  Supper — Plain  bread,  Gelinola 
salad  with  sardines,  jelly  and  cake. 


A year’s  bill  of  fare. 


899 


27.  Breakfast — Popovers,  fried  fish,  potato  risscles.  Dinner — Fish, fresh 
or  canned,  potatoes  boiled  in  jackets,  stewed  tomatoes,  Lima  beans  ; water- 
melon. Supper — Graham  toast,  bologna  sausage,  vanities  with  jelly. 

28.  Breakfast — Bread  puffs,  fried  potatoes,  poached  eggs.  Dinner— 
Boiled  ham  or  shoulder  with  vegetables,  cucumber  salad;  carrot  pudding, 
warm  gingerbread  and  lemonade.  Supper — Light  biscuit,  shaved  ham,  blanc- 
mange, with  jelly  and  cake. 

29.  Sunday.  Bi^eakfasD-Nnimeg  melon,  French  pancakes,  broiled  ham, 
sliced  tomatoes.  Dinner — Boast  prairie  chicken,  mashed  potatoes,  boiled 
onions  ; currant  jelly,  peaches  and  ice-cream.  Supper — Plain  bread,  sliced 
chicken,  watermelon. 

30.  Breakfast — Corn  bread,  broiled  mackerel,  potato  cakes.  Dinner — 
Roast  beef  with  potatoes,  corn  boiled  in  ear ; v/atermelon,  cake.  Supj^er — 
Toast,  cold  beef,  apple  fritters. 

31.  Breakfast — Breakfast  stew,  fricassed  potatoes,  breakfast  roils.  Din- 
ner — Boiled  ham  with  cabbage,  potatoes,  beets,  cucumbers ; custard  pie,  cake. 
Supper — Cold  rolls,  sliced  ham,  rusk,  apple  sauce. 

Bill  of  Fare  for  September. 

1.  Breakfast — Milk  toast,  broiled  steak,  fried  potatoes.  Dinner—Ghiok- 
f3n  pie,  boiled  potatoes,  young  carrots,  green  corn ; peach  short-cake.  Sup- 
per— Cold  tongue,  biscuit,  sliced  tomatoes,  grapes. 

2.  Breakfast — Biscuit,  broiled  bacon, tomatoes.  Dinner — Beef  a la  modej 
potatoes  boiled,  onions  baked,  egg  plant,  cabbage  salad ; apple  pie,  mixed 
3akes.  Supper — Pop-overs,  honey,  peaches  and  cream. 

3.  Breakfast — Graham  gems,  mutton  chops,  potatoes.  Dinner — Baked 
ish,  potatoes,  green  corn,  stewed  tomatoes,  pickled  beets;  peach  dumplings 
vviih  sauce,  cake.  Supper — Oyster  stew,  crackers,  celery,  fruit. 

4.  Breakfast — Nutmeg  melons,  corn  oysters,  steak.  jDmner— Beef  boiled 
A’ith  cabbage  and  potatoes,  succotash ; apple  roly-poly  with  custard  sauce, 
sponge  cake.  Supper — Sliced  beef,  peaches  and  cream. 

5.  Sunday.  Breakfast — Nutmeg  melon,  vegetable  hash,  broiled  veal  cut- 
lets, tomatoes  fried.  Dinner — Baked  chickens,  potatoes,  green  corn  pud- 
ding, tomatoes,  plum  sauce ; sliced  peaches,  ice-cream,  cake.  Supper — 
Cold  chicken,  sliced  tomatoes,  baked  pears. 

6.  Breakfast — Breakfast  rolls,  fried  liver,  fried  tomatoes.  Dinner — Roast 
beef,  potatoes,  green  corn,  fried  egg  plant,  onion  salad ; watermelon.  Supper 
Toasted  biscuit,  chicken  vanity,  fruit. 

7.  Breakfast— BxitiQvQd.  toast,  hash,  green  corn  oysters.  Dinner — Meat 
pe,  potatoes,  young  turnips,  stewed  onions,  pickled  beets ; apple  dumplings 
wth  cream  sauce,  cake.  Supper — Canned  salmon,  biscuit  and  jam. 

8.  Breakfast — Toasted  Sally  Lunn,  chickens  broiled,  cucumbers.  Din- 
ner— Roast  mutton,  baked  sweet  potatoes,  green  corn,  apple  sauce,  slaw  ; 
bread  pudding  with  sauce,  cake.  Supper — Toasted  bread,  sliced  mutton, 
baked  pears. 

9.  Breakfast — Corn  muffins,  breakfast  stew  of  mutton,  tomatoes.  Din- 
ner— Veal  pot  pie,  Lima  beans,  baked  egg  plant ;.  peach  meringue,  lady  cake. 
Supper — Pressed  chicken,  warm  biscuit,  baked  sweet  apples. 

10.  Breakfast — Batter  cakes,  veal  croquettes,  cottage  cheese.  Dinner — 
Boiled  or  baked  fish  with  potatoes,  green  corn,  tomatoes,  slaw  ; peaches  and 
cream,  cake.  Supper — Cold  tongue,  bread  and  iced  milk. 

11.  Breakfast — Shortcake,  mutton  chops,  potatoes.  Dinner — Economi- 
cal soup,  pickled  beets ; apple  meringue,  cake.  Supper — Soused  beef,  warm 
rolls,  grapes. 

12.  Sunday.  Breakfast — Rolls,  breakfast  stew,  stewed  okra.  Dinner-^ 
Broiled  prairie  chicken,  sv/eet  potatoes,  green  corn,  boiled  cauliflower,  plum 


900 


A year’s  bill  op  fare. 


sauce,  cabbage  salad;  tutti  frutti,  cake.  Supper — Sliced  veal,  biscuit,  baked 
pears. 

13.  Breakfast — Cream  toast,  prairie  chicken  stew,  fried  potatoes.  Din- 
ner— Roast  loin  of  veal,  potatoes,  baked  tomatoes,  onions,  cabbage;  apple 
snow,  cake.  Supper — Sliced  halibut,  dry  toast,  grapes. 

Breakfast — Light  biscuit,  broiled  bacon,  tomatoes.  Dinner — Chicken 
pie,  potatoes,  Lima  beans,  stewed  onions,  slaw;  mixed  cake,  custard. 
Supper — Sliced  veal,  biscuit,  baked  pears. 

15.  Breakfast — Graham  bread,  broiled  steak,  tomatoes.  Dinner — Boiled 
bacon  AA’ith  potatoes  and  beans,  green  corn  pudding,  raw  tomatoes,  baked 
egg  plant ; apple  pie,  cake.  Supper — Raw  oysters  and  sliced  lemon,  biscuit 
and  cake. 

16.  Breakfast — Hot  muffins,  fried  chicken,  fried  cabbage.  Dinner — 
Ragout  of  beef,  potatoes,  carrots,  corn ; compote  of  pears.  Supper — Cold 
sliced  beef,  sliced  tomatoes,  egg  rolls. 

17.  Breakfast — Buttered  toast,  poached  eggs,  broiled  ham.  Dinner — 
Devilled  crabs,  i^otatoes,  stewed  corn,  onions  ; apple  meringue  pie.  Supper — 
Sardines,  toast,  baked  peaches. 

18.  Breakfast — Plain  bread,  green  corn  fritters,  mutton  chops.  Dinner—' 
Chicken  fricassee,  mashed  potatoes,  pickled  beets  ; peachcake  with  Avhipped 
cream.  Supper — Sliced  veal  loaf,  Awarm  light  biscuit,  fried  bananas. 

19.  Sunday.  Breakfast — Nutmeg  melon,  fried  oysters,  baked  potatoes, 
Dinner — Baked  chickens,  sweet  potatoes,  succotash,  baked  tomatoes;  frozen 
custard,  mixed  cakes,  Avatermelon.  Sapper — Sliced  chicken,  biscuit,  apple 
sauce. 

20.  Breakfast — Nutmeg  melon,  corn  bread,  broiled  steak,  fried  SAveef 
potatoes.  Dinner — Roast  beef  with  potatoes,  corn,  escaloped  caulifloAver; 
watermelon,  cake.  Supper — Cold  sliced  beef,  biscuit,  floating  island. 

21.  Breakfast — Hash,  fried  cabbage,  sliced  cucumbers.  Dinner — Meat 
pie,  young  turnips,  Lima  beans  ; bread  and  apple  pudding  with  cream  sauce, 
cake.  Supper — Sliced  dried  beef,  baked  pears,  biscuits. 

22.  Breakfastlloi  muffins,  fricasseed  SAveetbread,  fried  apples,  fried  ravf 
potatoes.  Dinner — Boiled  beef  wdth  soup,  potatoes,  corn;  peaches  with 
cream,  cake.  Supper — Sliced  beef,  biscuit,  sliced  tomatoes  with  cream. 

23.  Breakfast — Plain  bread,  corn  oysters,  fried  potatoes,  mutton  chops. 
Dinner — Chicken  pudding,  baked  sweet  potatoes,  corn,  stuffed  tomatoes  ; ap- 
ple fritters  Avith  sauce,  cake.  Supper— Cold  tongue,  biscuit,  ambushed  trifle. 

24.  Breakfast — Cream  toast,  broiled  eggs,  tomatoes.  Dinner — Baked  or 
boiled  fish,  potatoes  boiled  in  jackets,  escaloped  caulifloAver,  slaw;  baked 
custard,  cake.  Supper — Mock  straAvberries,  chipped  dried  beef,  pop  overs. 

25.  Breakfast — Bread  puffs,  codfish,  fried  potatoes.  Dinner — Broiled 
steak,  mashed  potatoes,  creamed  cabbage  ; steamed  pudding  Avith  sauce,  cake. 
Supper — Beefsteak  toast,  rice  with  milk,  fruit. 

26.  Sunday.  Breakfast— melon,  waffles,  broiled  chicken,  toma- 
toes. Dinner — Veal  pot  pie.  SAveet-potatoes,  corn,  baked  onions  ; peach  pyr- 
amid, ice  cream.  Supper — Toasted  bread,  canned  salmon,  baked  pears. 

27.  Breakfast — Breakfast  rolls,  warmed-over  pot  pie,  fried  carrots.  Din.' 
wer-~Roast  leg  of  mutton  with  potatoes,  succotash  ; queen  of  puddings,  cake. 
Supper — Sliced  mutton,  Avarm  biscuit,  baked  apples. 

28.  Breakfast— Hot  muffins,  broiled  beefsteak,  fried  raw  potatoes.  Dm- 
— Meat  pie,  onions,  chocolate  souffle,  cake.  Supper — Yankee  dried  beef, 

sliced  tomatoes,  peaches  and  cream. 

29.  Breakfast— '^lolons,  hot  rolls,  broiled  chickens,  sliced  tomatoes  Dm.- 
r?er— Boiled  beef  with  potatoes,  turnips,  green  corn,  pickled  beets  ; apple  pie, 
cakes.  Supper — Cold  corned  beef  chipped,  plain  bread  sliced  thin,  rusk, 
itewed  pears. 


A year’s  bill  of  fare. 


901 


30.  Breakfast — Fruit,  broiled  bacon,  corn  bread,  fried  tomatoes.  Din- 
ner — Roast  lamb  with  mint  sauce,  baked  potatoes,  green  corn  pudding, 
boiled  onions,  small  pickles;  cbcoanut  pudding,  chocolate  cake,  fruit.  Sup- 
per—Cold  lamb  sliced,  cottage  cheese,  light  buns,  peaches  and  cream. 

Bill  of  Fare  for  October. 

1.  Breakfast — Broiled  steak,  flannel  cakes,  fried  potatoes.  Dinner — 
Baked  or  boiled  fish,  potatoes  boiled,  fried  egg  plant ; peach  pie,  cake.  Sup- 
per— Marbled  veal,  light  biscuit,  stewed  quinces. 

2.  Breakfast — Veal  cutlets,  plain  omlet,  hot  biscuit,  fried  potatoes. 
Dinner — Boiled  mutton  with  soup,  potatoes,  turnips,  carrots,  beets  and  pic- 
kles; apple  dumplings  with  sauce,  cake  and  fruit.  Supper — Cold  mutton 
sliced,  apple  sauce,  warmb.scuit,  cake,  jelly. 

3.  Sunday.  Breakfast — ^^Broiled  oysters,  baked  apples,  corn  batter  cakes. 
Dinner — Baked  chickens  stuffed,  Lima  beans,  baked  sweet-potatoes,  corn, 
squash,  beets,  celery ; frozen  peaches,  grapes,  cake.  Supper — Sardines, 
bread,  coffee  cake,  sliced  peaches. 

4.  Breakfast — Biscuit,  broiled  bacon,  fried  potatoes.  Dinner — Roast 
beef,  with  potatoes,  turnips,  corn,  tomatoes  ; bread  pudding  with  sauce,  cake, 
fruits.  Supper — Sliced  beef,  bread,  cake,  stewed  peaches. 

5.  Breakfast — Hash  or  beef  croquettes,  muffins,  fried  cabbage.  Dinner— 
Meat  pie,  steamed  potatoes,  corn,  fried  egg  plant,  beets  ; custard  baked,  cake, 
fruit.  Supper — Sliced  tongue,  bread,  chocolate,  lemon  souffle,  rusk. 

6.  Breakfast — Mutton  chops  broiled,  potatoes  fried,  buttered  toast.  Din- 
ner— Veal  pot  pie,  sweet-potatoes,  Lima  beans,  tomatoes,  pickles;  applo 
fritters  with  sauce,  grape  tarts,  cake.  Supper — Cold  tongue,  currant  or  plum 
jelly,  baked  quinces. 

7.  Breakfast — Corn  muffins,  fried  liver,  fried  sweet-potatoes.  Dinner — 
Chicken  fricassee,  baked  potatoes,  turnips,  beets ; rice  apples,  cake^  fruit. 
Supper — ^^Chicken  pates,  peaches  with  cream,  bread. 

8.  Breakfast — Waffles,  veal  cutlets,  potato  croquettes.  Dinner — Baked 
or  boiled  fish,  mashed  potatoes,  corn,  stewed  tomatoes ; rice  pudding,  cocoa- 
nut  cake,  fruit.  Supper — Canned  corned  beef  sliced,  buns,  fried  apples  with 
sugar. 

9.  Breakfast — Bread  puffs,  croquettes  of  fish  with  potatoes,  tomatoes. 
Dinner — Saturday  bean  soup,  broiled  beefsteak,  boiled  cauliflower,  potatoes 
boiled  in  jackets,  pickles  ; plain  boiled  pudding  with  sauce,  cake,  fruit.  Sup- 
per— Beefsteak  toast,  bread,  stewed  pears. 

10.  Sunday.  Breakfast — Baked  beans  with  Boston  brown  bread,  baked 
apples  with  cream.  Dinner — Oyster  soup,  roast  wild  duck,  grape  jelly,  cel- 
ery, mashed  potatoes  and  turnips,  slaw ; lemon  ice,  compote  of  pears,  cake. 
Supper — Sliced  duck,  bread  and  milk. 

11.  Breakfast — Graham  gems,  broiled  mutton  chop,  croquettes  of  cold 
vegetables.  Dinner — Roast  beef  with  potatoes,  carrots,  plain  boiled  rice ; 
baked  custard,  cake,  grapes.  Supper — Cold  beef  sliced,  bread,  rice  fritters 
with  sugar. 

12.  Breakfast — Hash,  fried  okra,  biscuit.  Dinner — Boiled  mutton  with 
soup,  celery,  slaw;  sliced  pine-apple,  cake.  Supper — Sliced  mutton,  cot- 
tage cheese,  bread,  cake,  grape  jam. 

13.  Breakfast — Corn  batter  cakes,  croquettes  of  mutton  and  vegetables. 
Dinner — Beef  a la  mode,  mashed  potatoes  and  turnips,  succotash;  apples 
grapes,  cake.  Supper — Meat  salad,  bread,  cake,  baked  pears. 

14.  Breakfast — Buttered  toast,  croquettes  of  cold  beef  and  vegetables. 
Dinner — Fried  or  smothered  chickens,  mashed  potatoes,  Lima  beans,  pickles  ; 
bird’s  nest  pudding,  cake.  Supper — Canned  corned  beef  sliced,  rolls,  fruit 


902 


A YEARS  BILL  OF  FARE. 


15.  Breakfast — Broiled  mutton  chops,  fried  potato  cakes,  muffins.  Din- 
ner— Baked  or  boiled  fish,  boiled  whole  potatoes,  corn,  delicate  cabbage, 
clieese  foiidu ; peach  meringue,  cake.  Supper — Bologna  Sausage,  toasted 
muffins,  honey. 

1,6.  Breakfast — Plain  bread,  veal  cutlets,  breakfast  wheat.  Dinner^ 
Boiled  beef  with  vegetables  ; cocoanut pudding,  cake.  Supper — Soused  beef, 
light  biscuit,  fried  apples. 

17.  S niday.  Breakfast — Vegetable  hash,  fried  oysters,  stewed  tomatoes. 
Dinner — Broiled  pheasant,  sweet-potatoes,  tomatoes,  onion  sauce  ; peach  me- 
ringue pie,  plum  jelly,  cake,  fruit.  Supper — Cold  beef  sliced,  rusk,  baked 
apnles. 

18.  Breakfast  —Blacmt,  veal  cutlets  breaded,  potatoes.  Dinner — Boast 
beef  with  potatoes,  tomatoes  ; plain  boiled  rice,  cake.  Supper — Veal  loaf, 
baked  apples,  rice  waffles  with  sugar. 

19.  Breakfast — Oyster  croquettes,  fried  cabbage,  fried  potatoes.  Din- 
ner— Boiled  mutton  wiidi  soup,  potatoes,  squash;  apple  tapioca  pudding, 
cake.  Supper — Sliced  mutton,  light  buns,  fried  apples. 

20.  Breakfast — Pates  of  cold  mutton,  fried  potatoes,  plain  bread.  Din- 
ner— Roast  beef  with  potatoes,  turnips,  carrots  ; plain  batter  pudding  with 
sauce,  cake,  fruit.  Supper — Sliced  beef,  grape  jam,  popovers. 

21.  Breakfast — Hot  rolls,  broiled  bacon,  fricassed  potatoes.  Dinner — 
Meat  pie,  boiled  onions,  stevred  tomatoes,  beets  ; apple  dumplings  with  sauce, 
cake.  Sapper — Cold  pressed  meat,  cake,  stewed  grapes. 

22.  Breakfast — Phain  bread,  fried  fish,  corn  dodgers,  tomatoes.  Dinner — ■ 
Baked  or  b(’)iled  fish,  whole  boiled  y^otatoes,  tomatoes,  creamed  cabbage  ; mo- 
lasses pudding,  cake-  Supper — Dried  beef  frizzled,  buns,  baked  apples. 

23.  Breakfast — Graham  bread,  mutton  chops,  fried  potatoes.  Dinner — 
Broiled,  steak,  Pleidelberg  cabbage,  turnips,  pickles;  cocoanut  pudding,  choc- 
olate cake,  grapes.  Supper — Beefsteak  toast,  mush  and  milk,  light  biscuit, 
baked  pears. 

24.  Sunday.  Breakfast — Pried  oysters,  fried  mush,  poached  eggs.  Din- 
ner— Roast  wild  duck,  grape  or  plum  jelly,  mashed  })otatoes,  tomatoes,  Lima 
beans  ; sliced  peaches,  ice  cream,  cake,  grapes.  Supper — Sliced  duck,  sliced 
tomatoes,  sponge  cake,  jelly. 

25.  Breakfast — Corn  cakes,  broiled  ham,  tomatoes  or  potatoes.  Dinner  — 
Roast  beef  with  potatoes,  turnips,  plain  rice  boiled ; sago  pudding,  cake. 
Supper — Cold  sliced  beef,  bread,  butter,  apple  sauce. 

26.  Breakfast — Rice  cakes,  broiled  steak,  fried  potatoes.  Dinner — Meat 
pie,  Lima  beans,  stuffed  cabbage  salad  ; molasses  pudding,  cake.  Supper— 
Sardines,  dry  toast,  baked- apples. 

27.  Breakfast — Mutton  hash,  Sally  Lunn,  fried  onions.  Dinner — Bread- 
ed chicken,  glazed  sweet-potatoes,  tomatoes  ; baked  quinces,  cake  Supper — 
Cold  pressed  meat,  rolls,  fried  apples. 

28.  Breakfast — Hot  rolls,  veal  cutlets,  fried  sweet-potatoes.  Dinnt-.r — 
Ragout  of  beef,  potatoes,  turnips,  tomatoes  baked  ; Italian  cream,  cake,  fruit. 
Supper — Dried  beef  chipped,  preserves  with  cream. 

29.  Breakfast— Corn  cakes,  broiled  bacon,  omelette.  Dinner — B iked  or 
boiled  fish,  whole  potatoes,  creamed  cabbage,  tomatoes,  beets  ; boiled  Indian 
])udding  with  sauce,  cake.  Supper — Bologna  sausage,  hot  toasted  rusk, 
quince  jelly. 

30.  Breakfast — Fruit,,  rolls,  broiled  mutton  chop,  potato  croquettes. 
Dinner — Broiled  steak,  Saturday  bean  soup,  potatoes,  tnrni]:)S  ajid  carrots, 
pickles ; warm  apple  pie,  fruit  cake.  Snpprr — Hot  biscuit,  cold  tongue,  fried 
apples,  teacakes. 

31.  Sunday.  Breakfast — Baked  lieans,  Boston  brown  bread,  baked  ap- 
ples. Dinne)-— Stewed  oysters,  roast  veal  v.ith  sweet  potatoes,  apple  sauce, 


A year’s  bill  of  fare. 


903 


tomatoes,  cabbage  salad ; cold  apple  pie,  preserve  sandwiches,  jelly  cake, 
grapes  and  apples.  Supper — Toasted  muffins,  sliced  veal,  bananas. 


Bill  of  Fare  for  ISTovember. 


1.  Breakfast — Biscuit,  croquettes  of  veal,  breakfast  hominy.  Dinner — 
Veal  stew,  turnips,  beets ; baked  apples  with  cream,  cake.  Supper — Cold 
biscuit,  bread  and  milk,  fried  apples. 

2.  Breakfast — (drahani  gems,  fried  liver,  fried  cabbage,  raw  potatoes 
fried.  Dinner — Baked  chicken  wdth  potatoes  and  parsnips,  mashed  turnips, 
celery ; apple  dumplings  with  sauce,  cake.  Supper — Light  biscuit,  cold  sliced 
chicken,  lemon  souffle. 

3.  Breakfast — Cracked  wheat,  chicken  croquettes,  plain  bread.  Din- 
ner— Boiled  leg  of  mutton  with  soup,  macaroni  with  cheese,  boiled  cauli- 
flower, whole  boiled  potatoes,  slaw;  caramel  custard,  jelly  cake.  Supper — 
Biscuit,  dried  beef  frizzled,  hot  short  cake,  jam. 

4.  Breakfast — Corn  muffins,  broiled  liver,  hominy.  Dinner — Veal  pot 
pie,  escaloped  oysters,  celery,  slaw ; tapioca  cream,  cake.  Supper — Toasted 
muffins,  sliced  tongue,  rusk,  stewed  pears. 

5.  Breakfast — Buttered  toast,  poached  eggs,  warmed  over  pot  pie.  Din- 
ner— Baked  or  boiled  fish,  mashed  potatoes,  tomato  sauce,  beets  ; custard  pie, 
cake.  Supper — Light  biscuit,  cold  pressed  meat,  bread  and  milk. 

6.  Breakfast — Bread  puffs,  croquettes  of  fish,  potatoes.  Dinner — Larded 
liver,  mashed  potatoes,  delicate  cabbage  ; rice  pudding,  cake.  Supper — Cold 
biscuit,  apple  fritters  with  sugar,  tea  cakes. 

7.  Sunday  Breakfast — Cream  toast,  fried  chickens,  escaloped  eggs. 
Dinner — Roast  wild  goose  with  apple  sauce,  celery,  turnips,  sweet-potatoes; 
pumpkin  pie,  cake.  Supyper — Tea  rolls,  cold  sliced  goose,  gelatine  blanc- 
mange. 

8.  Breakfast — Corn  cake,  broiled  mutton  chops,  hominy.  Dinner. — 
Roast  beef  with  potatoes,  turnips,  cabbage  salad  ; lemon  pie,  farina  pudding, 
cake.  Supper — Cold  roast  beef,  bread  fritters,  honey. 

9.  Breakfast — Sally  Limn,  breakfast  stew,  fried  potatoes.  Dinner — Stew- 
ed beef,  boiled  onions,  mashed  potatoes,  Lima  beans,  jelly  ; rice  apples,  cake. 
Supper — Toasted  Sally  Lunn.  sliced  cold  beef,  fried  apples,  rusk. 

10.  Breakfast — Buttered  toast,  fried  pork  steak,  potato  cake,  tomatoes. 
Dinner — Boiled  chicken  with  soup,  plain  rice,  whole  potatoes,  slaw ; apple 
dumplings,  cake.  Supper — Cold  chicken,  rice  fritters,  tea  cakes. 

11.  Breakfast — Waffles,  broiled  steak,  fried  potatoes.  Dinner — Toad-in- 
the-hole,  whole  potatoes,  turnips,  onion  sauce;  cream  pie,  cake.  Supper- 
Cold  rolls,  canned  salmon,  black  caps. 

12.  Breakfast — Fried  mush,  oyster  fritters,  plain  bread.  Dinner — Baked 
or  boiled  fish,  mashed  potatoes,  canned  pease,  tomatoes,  grape  jelly  ; cottage 
pudding  with  sauce.  Supper — Rolls,  cold  mutton  sliced,  rice  fritters,  jelly 
and  cake. 

13.  Breakfast — Hot  rolls,  croquettes  of  fish,  potato  cakes.  Dmner— Eco- 
nomical soup ; Esrelle  puddiag,  cake.  Supper — Cold  rolls,  soused  beef,  stewed 
fruit,  tea  cakes. 

14.  Sunday.  Breakfast — Oyster  omelet,  vegetable  hash,  baked  apples, 
potatoes.  Dinner — Stewed  oysters,  roast  wild  duck,  mashed  potatoes,  boiled 
onions,  celery;  Charlotte  russe,  fruit  cake.  Supper — Cold  duck  sliced,  light 
biscuit,  grapes,  sponge  cake,  currant  jelly. 

15.  Breakfast — Cream  toast,  broiled  pork,  potato  cakes.  Dinner — Veal 
roast,  sweet-potatoes,  boiled  turnips,  chicken  salad;  economical  pudding. 
Supper — Oatmeal  mush,  cold  sliced  veal,  cranberry  tarts,  cake. 


904 


A year's  bill  of  fare. 


16.  Breakfast — Graham  bread,  croquettes  of  duck,  potatoes.  Dinner — 
Spiced  beef  tongue,  baked  potatoes,  macaroni  with  cheese;  grapes,  cake. 
Supper — Toasted  Graham  bread,  cold  tongue,  baked  pears. 

17.  Breakfast — Batter  cakes,  broiled  mutton  chops,  potatoes.  Dinner — 
Oyster  pie,  baked  sweet -potatoes,  diced  turnips,  celery;  apple  pie  with 
whipped  cream.  Supper — Cold  rolls,  chipped  beef,  custard  cake,  marma- 
lade. 

18.  Breakfast — Waffles,  hash,  fried  sweet -potatoes.  Dinner — Brown 
stew,  baked  potatoes,  plain  rice,  slaw ; pumpkin  pie,  cake.  Supper — Cold 
sliced  beef,  short  cake,  jam. 

19.  Breakfast — Corn  batter  cakes,  broiled  sausage,  hominy.  Dinner — 
Turbot,  mashed  potatoes,  turnips,  Heidelbreg  cabbage ; prune  whip,  cake. 
Supper — Light  biscuit,  bologna  sausage,  baked  quinces. 

20.  Breakfast — Graham  gems,  veal  cutlets,  potatoes.  Dinner — Chicken 
pot  pie ; warm  apple  pie,  cake.  Supper — Toasted  gems,  dried  beef,  baked 
apples. 

21.  Sunday.  Breakfast — Cream  toast,  broiled  oysters  with  pork,  fried 
raw  potatoes.  Dinner — Stewed  oysters,  roast  goose,  mashed  potatoes,  boiled 
onions,  cranberry  sauce,  celery ; peach  pie,  jelly  cake.  Supper — Cold  bis- 
cuit, sliced  goose,  grapes,  cakes. 

22.  Breakfast — Granula  mush,  broiled  steak,  potatoes,  plain  bread.  Din- 
ner — Roast  goose  warmed  over,  baked  potatoes,  macaroni  with  cheese  ; grape 
pie,  cake.  Supper — Buttered  toast,  cold  sliced  goose,  fried  apples,  rusk. 

23.  Breakfast — Corn  gems,  fried  liver,  breakfast  potatoes.  Dinner — 
Roast  pork  with  sweet-potatoes  or  parsnips,  tomatoes,  beets,  apple  sauce ; 
bread  and  fruit  pudding,  cake.  Supper — Toasted  gems,  dried  beef,  canned 
fruit. 

24.  Breakfast — PatoS  of  pork,  fried  sweet-potatoes,  plain  bread.  Din- 
ner— Beef  a la  mode,  steamed  potatoes,  Heidelberg  cabbage,  beets,  plain 
rice  ; cocoanut  pudding,  cake.  Supper — Cold  meat,  rice  fritters,  baked  apples. 

25.  Thanksgiving  Day.  Breakfast — Grapes,  oatmeal  with  cream,  panned 
oysters  with  toast,  hot  rolls,  broiled  mutton  chops,  raw  potatoes  fried,  flan- 
nel cakes  with  maple  syrup  or  honey.  Dinner — Turtle,  chicken,  or  oyster 
soup,  baked  fish  if  large  and  fresh,  or  stewed  if  canned  (cod,  halibut,  or  sal- 
mon,) mashed  potatoes,  celery,  roast  turkey,  baked  sweet-potatoes,  Lima 
beans,  stewed  tomatoes,  onions,  beets,  cranberry  sauce,  cabbage  salad, 
green  pickles  ; pumpkin  pie,  mince  pie,  plum  pudding,  ice-cream,  rissolletts, 
assorted  cakes,  oranges  and  grapes,  nuts.  Supper— Ligh.i  biscuit,  shaved 
cold  turkey,  currant  jelly,  cheese  sandwiches,  tea  cakes,  apples  and  jelly. 

26.  Breakfast — Buttered  toast;  turkey  hash  or  croquettes  of  meat  and 
vegetables.  Dinner — Escaloj^ed  turkey,  turnips,  beets,  potatoes,  slaw,  corn 
starch  pudding,  cakes.  Supper — Light  biscuit,  cold  turkey,  cranberry  sauce, 
Welch  rarebit. 

27.  Breakfast — Corn  bread,  broiled  spare  ribs,  potatoes.  Dinner — Tur- 
key soup,  venison  steak,  potatoes  ala  pancake,  carrots,  boiled  beets ; custard 
pie,  cake.  Supper — Cold  rolls,  cold  tongue,  mush  and  milk. 

28.  Sunday.  Breakfast — Graham  gems,  veal  cutlets,  omelet.  Dinner— 
Oyster  roll,  cold  sliced  tongue,  turnips  maslied,  baked  sweet-potatoes,  cel-" 
ery ; pumpkin  pie,  grapes,  cake.  Supper — Light  biscuit,  cold  tongue,  cur- 
rant jelly,  cake. 

29.  Breakfast — Buttered  toast,  fried  venison,  fried  sweet  potatoes.  Din- 
rfiQy. — Roast  mutton,  baked  potatoes,  baked  turnips,  plum  jelly ; grapes,  choc- 
olate cake.  Supper— lAgh.i  biscuit,  sliced  mutton,  doughnuts. 

30.  Breakfast — Hot  rolls,  mutton  croquettes,  potatoes.  Dinner — Boiled 
corned  beef  with  turnips  and  potatoes,  pickled  beets.  Chili  sauce  ; peach  roll. 
Supiper — Cold  rolls,  sliced  corned  beef,  baked  apples,  rusk. 


A year’s  bill  of  fare. 


905 


Bill  of  Bare  for  December. 

1.  Breakfast — Com  batter  cakes,  devilled  oysters,  fried  potatoes.  Diu’- 
ner — Chicken  pie  with  oysters,  canned  Lima  beans,  cabbage  salad ; pumpkin 
pie,  cake.  Snpper-r-H.ot  tea  rolls,  bologna  sausage,  canned  fruit,  cake. 

2.  Breakfast — Buckwheat  cakes,  sausage,  croquettes  of  hominy.  Din- 
ner— Veal  pot-pie,  canned  tomatoes,  apple  sauce;  eggless  plum  pudding,  jelly 
cake,  Supper — Biscuits,  frizzled  beef,  fried  apples,  cake. 

3.  Breakfast. — Waffles,  broiled  steak,  omelet.  Dinner. — Herring  pud- 
ding, mashed  potatoes,  celery,  turnips ; baked  apple  dumpling  with  hard 
sauce,  cake.  Supper — Toast, 'pressed  meat,  cream  fritters,  apple  jelly. 

4.  Breakfast — Graham  bread,  broiled  spare  ribs,  fried  raw  potatoes. 
Dinner — Broiled  beefsteak,  stuffed  cabbage,  potato  souffle,  turnips,  celery; 
molasses  pudding,  cake.  Supper — Toasted  Graham  bread,  cold  tongue,  float- 
ing island. 

5.  Sunday.  Breakfast — Flannel  cakes,  beefsteak  toast,  potato  cakes. 
Dinner — Roast  haunch  of  venison,  mashed  potatoes,  tomatoes,  apple  sauce, 
cheese  fingers,  celery ; fig  pudding  with  lemon  sauce,  cake.  Sujoper — Tea 
buns,  cold  venison,  canned  fruit,  lady  fingers. 

6.  Breakfast — Cream  toast, ^fricatelli,  potato  cakes.  Dinner — Baked  veal, 
potatoes,  plain  boiled  rice  ; peach  roll,  cake.  Supper — Cold  veal  sliced,  but- 
tered toast,  jelly  and  cake. 

7.  Breakfast — Sally  Lunn,  veal  patties,  corn  dodgers.  Dinner — Veal  pie, 
carrots,  boiled  beets ; crumb  pie,  cake.  Supper — Toasted  Sally  Lunn,  baked 
apples  and  buns. 

8.  Breakfast — Com  muffins,  breaded  veal  cutlets,  Saratoga  potatoes. 
Dinner — Stewed  oysters,  roast  mutton  wdth  potatoes,  tomatoes,  celery ; pine- 
apple ice-cream,  jelly  cake.  Supper — Toasted  muffins,  cold  mutton  sliced, 
apple  croutes. 

9.  Breakfast — Hot  rolls,  cracked  wheat,  breakfast  stew.  Dinner — Roast 
quails,  baked  potatoes,  Lima  beans,  celery ; pumpkin  pie,  cake.  Supper — 
Cold  rolls,  cold  tongue  sliced,  baked  apples,  tea  cakes. 

10.  Breakfast — Buckwheat  cakes,  smoked  sausage  broiled,  hominy  cro- 
quettes. Dinner — Baked  or  boiled  fish,  mashed  potatoes,  squash,  cabbage 
salad ; hot  peach  pie  with  cream,  cake.  Supper — Light  biscuit,  stewed 
oysters,  canned  fruit  with  cake. 

11.  Breakfast — Buckwheat  cakes,  rabbit  stewed,  potato  cakes.  Dinner — 
Chicken  fricassee,  baked  potatoes,  baked  turnips  ; cottage  pudding  with  sauce, 
cake.  Supper — French  rolls,  Welsh  rarebit,  jam. 

12.  Sunday.  Breakfast — Muffins,  broiled  spare  ribs,  fried  potatoes. 
Dinner — Roast  turkey  garnished  Vv^ith  fried  oysters,  mashed  potatoes,  turnips, 
cranberry  sauce,  celery ; cream  tarts,  carrot  pudding.  Supper — Light  bis- 
cuit, cold  turkey,  jelly  and  cake. 

13.  Breakfast — Buttered  toast,  fried  apples,  cold  turkey  broiled.  Din- 
ner— Roast  turkey  w'armed  over,  potatoes  whole,  canned  corn ; canned  fruit 
and  cream.  Supper — Cold  turkey,  mush  and  milk,  buns,  jam, 

14.  Breakfast — Plain  bread,  fried  corn  mush,  breakfast  bacon,  fried 
cabbage.  Dinner — Fried  rabbit,  canned  tomatoes,  diced  turnips  ; mince  pie, 
cake.  Supper — Hot  short  cake,  boiled  oysters  on  the  half  shell,  tea  rolls, 
canned  fruit. 

15.  Breakfast — Crumb  griddle  cakes,  breakfast  stew,  fried  potatoes. 
Dinner — Boiled  corned  beef  with  turnips,  potatoes  and  cabbage;  baked  apple 
dumplings  with  sauce,  cake.  Supper — Biscuit,  cold  beef,  canned  cherries. 

16.  Breakfast — Graham  rolls,  croquettes  of  codfish  with  potatoes.  Din- 
ner— Baked  chickens  with  parsnips,  mashed  potatoes,  celery,  currant  jelly  ; 
preserves  with  wffiipped  cream.  Supper — Plain  bread,  cold  chicken,  toasted 
rusk,  jelly. 


906 


A year's  bill  of  fare. 


17.  Breakfast — Oyster  toast,  broiled  steak,  potatoes.  Dinner — Steamed 
fish,  steamed  potatoes,  celery,  Lima  beans,  stewed  tomato;  mince  pie.  Sup- 
per— Cold  rolls,  chicken  pates,  baked  apples. 

18.  Breakfast — Waffles,  croquettes  of  fish,  fried  potatoes.  Dinner — SaL 
urday  bean  soup,  broiled  venison  steak,  mashed  potatoes,  beets ; vinegar  pie, 
cake.  Supper — Toast,  cold  ham,  buns,  jelly. 

19.  Sunday,  Breakfast — Buttered  toast,  broiled  oysters,  potato  cakes, 
fried  parsnips.  Dinner — Bouillon,  roast  domestic  ducks,  mashed  potatoes 
and  turnips,  boiled  onions,  celery  sauce,  snow  jelly;  fig  pudding  with  lemon 
sauce,  cake.  Supper — Tea  rolls,  salmi  of  duck,  apple  croutes. 

20.  Breakfast — Corn  batter  cakes,  broiled  bacon,  potatoes.  Dinner — Mac- 
aroni soup,  roast  spare  rib,  baked  potatoes,  salsify,  cabbage  salad ; plain  In- 
dian pudding  with  sauce.  Supper — Biscuit,  cold  pressed  meat,  sliced  apples. 

21.  Breakfast — Johnny  cake,  sausage,  hominy  croquettes.  Dinner — ^ 
Bouillon  with  Sweedish  dumplings,  roast  rabbits,  baked  potatoes,  slaw ; ap- 
ple meringue  pie,  jelly  cake.  Supper — Light  biscuit,  dried  beef  frizzled. 

22.  Breakfast— FriQd  pork  steak,  fried  raw  potatoes,  fried  cabbage.  Din- 
ner— Venison  roast  with  potatoes,  boiled  onions,  plum  jelly;  chocolate  pud- 
ding, cake.  Supper — Sliced  venison  with  jelly,  sweet  wafers,  canned  fruit. 

23.  Breakfast — Breakfast  stew  of  cold  venison,  fried  potatoes,  Indian 
pancakes.  Dinner — Spanish  pot-pie,  canned  tomatoes  ; starch  pudding.  Sup- 
per— Graham  mush  and  milk  and  jam. 

24.  Breakfast — Sally  Lunn,  broiled  beefsteak,  Lyonnaise  potatoes,  bread 
cakes  with  syrup.  Dinner — Chicken  soup,  chickens  dressed  with  parsley 
and  egg  sauce,  potatoes,  salsify,  slaw;  hot  apple  pie  with  cream.  Supper — 
Cold  chicken,  French  rolls,  apple  sauce. 

25.  Christmas.  Breakfast — Grapes  and  bananas,  broiled  oysters  on  toast, 
waffles  with  honey.  Dinner — Raw  oysters  served  with  sliced  lemon ; turtle 
soup  ; baked  fresh  fish ; roast  turkey  garnished  with  fried  oysters,  mashed 
potatoes,  Lima  beans,  pickled  beets,  mayonaise  of  chicken  salad,  celery, 
cheese  ramakins,  cranberry  sauce  ; Christmas  plum  pudding  with  rich  sauce  ; 
mince  pie,  sponge-and  lady  cake  mixed,  pine-apple  ice.  fanchonettes,  fruit 
and  nuts.  Supper  or  Luncheon — Curried  oysters,  Vienna  rolls,  slaw,  apple 
trifle  with  whipped  cream,  lady  fingers,  cake. 

26.  Sunday.  Breakfast — Corn  muffins,  oysters  in  shell,  croquettes  of 
turkey,  potato  rissoles.  Dinner — Turkey  soup,  quail  on  toast,  walled  oysters, 
boiled  onions,  celery  and  slaw ; ice-cream,  cake.  Supper — Bread  and  milk, 
lemon  fritters  with  sugar,  rusk. 

27.  Breakfast — Buckwheat  cakes,  broiled  spare  rib  or  sausage,  pates  of 
turkey  hot  with  gravy,  hominy.  Dinner — Escaloped  turkey,  baked  potatoes, 
canned  corn;  mince  pie,  cakes.  Sujjper — Biscuit,  cold  tongue,  cakes. 

28.  Breakfast — Hot  rolls,  fried  liver,  oyster  omelet.  Dinner — Oyster 
soup,  roast  pig  (garnished  with  boquettes  of  beets,  carrots  and  green  pickles 
carved),  whole  steamed  potatoes,  parsnips,  beets,  macaroni  with  cheese; 
peach  pie  with  cream.  Supper — Cold  rolls,  sliced  tongue,  apple  croutes,  cake. 

29.  Breakfast — Oyster  toast,  veal  sweet-breads,  potatoes  fried  whole. 
Dinner — Mutton  soup,  mutton  dressed  with  caper  sauce,  baked  potatoes, 
canned  pease,  celery,  cranberry  jelly;  cocoanut  pudding,  cake.  Supper — 
Cold  mutton,  short  cake  with  jam. 

30.  Breakfast — Graham  gems,  broiled  veal  cutlets,  fried  potatoes.  Din- 
ner—stuffed  chicken,  mashed  patatoes,  salsify,  canned  corn,  currant 
jelly,  celery,  prairie  plum  pudding.  Supper. — Kaw  oysters,  French  rolls, 
jellied  chicken,  grape  jelly,  assorted  cakes. 

31.  Breakfast. — Fried  oysters.  Duchess  potatoes,  waffles  with  maple 
syrup,  baked  apples.  Dinner. — Boiled  fish  with  Hollandaise  sauce,  steamed 
potatoes,  canned  tomatoes,  canned  succotash  ; queen  of  puddings.  Supper. — • 
Fricassed  oysters,  slaw,  celery,  waffles  and  honey,"  canned  pears. 


ADDITIONAL  BILLS  OF  FARE. 


907 


Note.— Observe  that  these  hills  of  fare  are  made  with  especiai  reference  to  the  ordinary 
routine  of  the  week  in  the  kitchen,  the  meals  for  each  day  being  planned  to  save  labor 
and  fuel,  and  to  interfere  as  little  as  possible  with  the  special  work  of  the  day.  Thus 
Monday’s  bill  of  fare  will  not  fit  !.ny  other  day  of  the  week  if  Monday  is  set  apart  as 
washing  day.  The  housekeeper  should  aim  at  variety  on  successive  meals  rather  than  in 
the  same  meal,  remember  that  a few  dishes  daint  ly  cooked  and  served  .make  a far  more 
attractive  dinner  than  many  dishes  less  perfectly  cooked  and  served. 


Additional  Bills  of  Fare. 

New  Year’s  Table. — When  receiving  calls  on  New  Year’s  day,  the  table 
sLould  he  handsomely  arranged  and  decorated,  and  provided  with  rather 
substantial  dishes,  such  as  would  suit  the  taste  of  gentlemen.  Too  great 
profusion,  especially  of  cakes,  confectionery  and  ices,  is  out  of  taste.  Selec- 
tions may  be  made  from  the  following:  Escaloped  oysters,  cold  tongue, 
turkey,  chicken,  and  ham,  pressed  meats,  boned  turkey,  jellied  chicken, 
sandwiches  or  wedding  sandwich  rolls  ; pickled  oysters,  chicken  and  lobster 
salads,  cold  slaw  garnished  with  fried  oysters;  bottled  pickles,  Trench  or 
Spanish  pickles ; cheese  straws  ; jellies  ; Charlotte-russe,  ice-creams,  ices, 
two  large  handsome  cakes  for  decoration  of  table,  and  one  or  two  baskets  of 
mixed  cake,  fruit,  layer,  and  sponge  cake  predominating ; fruits  ; nuts ; coffee ; 
chocolate  with  whipped  cream,  lemonade. 

Refreshments. — For  small  evening  parties,  sociables,  receptions,  etc., 
where  the  rereshments  are  handed  round  or  are  served  from  a sideboard,  and 
are  of  a simple  character,  everything  should  be  excellent  in  the  highest  de- 
gree, delicately  prepared,  and  attractively  served.  Sandwiches  and  coffee, 
chocolate  or  tea,  a variety  of  nice  cake,  jellies,  ice-cream  or  ices,  and  fruits 
are  appropriate.  For  a more  pretentious  occasion,  a simple  table  prettily 
decorated  with  flowers,  and  set  with  fruit,  lobster  salad,  chicken  croquettes, 
pickled  oysters,  and  one  or  two  kinds  of  ice-cream  and  cake,  and  coffee  and 
tea  is  quite  enough. 

Refreshments  for  Twenty. — For  a company  of  twenty  allow  one  gallon 
oysters,  four  chickens  and  eight  bunches  of  celery  for  a chicken  salad,  fifty 
sandwiches,  one  gallon  gopher  orange-ice,  two  molds  Charlotte  russe,  two 
quarts  of  lemon  jelly,  one  light  and  one  dark  fruit  cake,  two  layer  cakes,  and 
one  white  or  sponge  cake  ; for  coffee  use  one  and  a half  pints  ground  coffee 
and  gallon  of  water;  fruit  cake  especially,  and,  indeed,  all  rich  cake, 
should  be  cut  in  thin  slices  with  a keen-edged  knife  ; a small  piece  of  each 
variety  is  always  preferred  to  a plate  overloaded  with  one  or  two  kinds. 

Refreshments  Jor  a Hundred. — For  a -large  company  of  a hundred  the 
refreshments  may  be  made  more  elaborate  : Two  gallons  of  pickled  oysters ; 
two  large  dishes  of  lobster  salad ; two  small  hams  boiled  and  sliced  cold,  five 
cold  tongues  sliced  thin,  twelve  chickens  jellied  or  pressed,  each  dish  gar- 
nished witn  sprigs  of  parsley,  slices  of  lemon  and  red  beets,  or  curled  leaves 
of  celery,  or  the  tender  center  leaves  of  lettuce  ; two  gallons  of  boughten  pickles 
or  a gallon  and  a half  of  home-made  ; twelve  dozen  biscuit  sandwiches  ; five 
quarts  jelley,  four  gallons  ice-cream  ; fifteen  large  cakes,  to  be  made  from 
recipes  for  rich  fruit,  delicate,  layer,  and  sponge  cakes;  twelve  dozen  each 
of  almond  macaroons  and  variety  puffs ; four  dishes  of  mixed  fruits ; five 
pounds  roasted  coffee  and  five  gallons  water,  which  should  be  served  just  be- 
fore ice-cream  and  six  gallons  of  iced  lemonade  to  serve  last. 

Refreshments  for  One  Hundred  and  Seventy-Five. — Six  gallons  oysters ; 
three  small  hams,  five  large  turkeys,  ten  tongues;  six  chickens  and  twelve 
bunches  celery  for  salad ; three  gallons  pickles ; seventeen  dozen  buns, 
twelve  loaves  bread  made  in  wedding  sandwich  rolls  or  in  plain  sandwiches ; 
twenty-one  large  cakes ; fifteen  dozen  large  oranges  sliced,  seventeen  aozen 
meringues,  fifteen  dozen  pears ; twenty  pounds  grapes ; seven  gallons  ice- 


908 


ADDITIONAL  BILLS  OF  FARE. 


cream  and  Wr  gallons  lemon  ice  ; coffee  made  of  twelve  pints  ground  coffee 
and  eight  gallons  water ; serve  coffee  and  lemonade  as  above. 

FOR  THE  PICNIC. 

In  the  ‘‘Sdnny  Soutn,  picnics  are  in  order  as  early  as  April,  but  in  the 
more  northern  latitudes  should  never  be  attempted  before  the  latter  part  of 
May  or  June,  and  September  and  October  are  the  crowming  months  for  them 
around  the  northern  lakes,  where  hunting  and  fishing  give  zest  to  the  sports. 
First,  be  up  at  ‘‘five  o’clock  in  the  morning,”  in  order  to  have  the  chicken, 
biscuit,  etc.,  freshly  baked.  Provide  two  bp-skets,  one  for  the  provisions,  and 
the  other  for  dishes  and  utensils,  which  shonld  include  the  following : Table- 
cloth and  oil-cloth  to  put  under  it,  napkins,  towels,  jilates,  cups,  forks,  a 
few  knives  and  table-spoons,  tea-spoons,  sauce  dishes,  tin  cups  (or  tumblers, 
if  picknickers  are  of  the  over-fastidious  variety) ; a tin  bucket,  for  water,  in 
which  a bottle  of  cream,  lemons,  oranges,  or  other  fruit  may  be  carried  to  the 
scene  of  action ; another  wdth  an  extra  close  cover,  partly  filled  with  made 
chocolate,  which  may  be  readily  reheated  by  setting  in  an  old  tin  pail  or  pan 
:in  which  w'ater  is  kept  boiling  a la  custard-kettle  ; frying-pan  : a coffee-pot, 
with  the  amount  of  prepared  coffee  needed  tied  in  a coarse,  white  flannel 
bag;  a tea-pot,  with  tea  in  a neat  paper  package;  tin  boxes  of  salt,  pepper, 
and  sugar;  a tin  box  of  butter  (if  carried)  placed  next  to  block  of  ice,  wdiich 
should  be  well  wrapped  with  blanket  and  put  in  a shady  corner  of  the  pic- 
nic wagon.  P'or  extra  occasions,  add  a freezer  filled  with  frozen  cream,  with 
jice  weil  packed  around  it,  and  heavily  wrapped  with  carpeting.  To  pack  the 
iDasket,  first  put  in  plates,  cups,  and  sauce  dishes  carefully  with  the  tow- 
ids  and.  napkins,  and  paper  if  needed;  then  add  the  rest,  fitting  them  in 
lightly,  and  covering  all  with  the  table-cloth,  and  over  it  the  oil  cloth.  Tie 
the  coffee  and  tea-pots,  w'ell  wrapped  up,  and  the  frying-pan  to  the  handles. 
]?ack  provision  basket  as  full  as  the  law  allows,  or  as  the  nature  of  the  occa- 
sion and  the  elasticity  of  the  appetites  demand. 

The  following  bills  of  fare  may  be  picked  to  pieces  and  recombined  to 
suit  tastes  and  occasions : 

Spring  Picnics. — Cold  roast  chicken  ; ham  broiled  on  coals  ; fish  fried  or 
broiled  ; sardines  ; tongue  ; hard  boiled  eggs ; eggs  to  be  fried  or  scrambled ; 
Boston  co4‘n  bread ; buttered  rolls;  ham  sandwiches  prepared  with  grated 
ham  ; orange  marmalade  ; canned  peaches  ; water-melon  and  beet  sweet-pic- 
kles ; euchered  plums;  variety  or  bottled  pickles;  chovv-chow;  quince  or 
plum  jelly;  raspberry  or  other  jams;  Scotch  fruit,  rolled  jelly,  chocolate, 
Minnehaha,  old-fashioned  loaf,  and  marble  cake;  coffee,  chocolate,  tea; 
cream  and  sugar  ; salt  and  pepper ; oranges. 

Summer  Picnics. — Cold  baked  or  broiled  chicken;  cold  boiled  ham; 
pickled  salmon;  cold  veal  loaf;  Parker  Flouse  rolls;  light  bread;  box  of 
butter ; green  corn  boiled  or  roasted  ; new  potatoes  ; sliced  tomatoes ; sliced 
cucumbers ; French  and  Spanish  pickles ; peach  and  pear  sweet-pickles ; 
lemon  or  orange  jelly ; strawberries,  raspberries  or  blackberries  ; lemonade  ; 
soda-beer  or  raspberry  vinegar ; coffee  and  iced  tea ; ice-cream ; lemon  or  straw- 
berry-ice ; sponge, white.  Buckeye,  or  lemon  cake  ; water-melon, musk-melon, 
nutmeg-melon. 

Fall  Picnics. — Broiled  prairie  chicken;  fish  chowder;  clam  chowder; 
clams  roasted  or  fried ; beef  omelet ; cold  veal  roast ; sardines ; cold  roast 
chicken  ; pot  of  pork  and  beans  ; rusk,  Minnesota  rolls,  Boston  brown  bread ; 
jjotatoes,  Irish  or  sweet,  roasted  in  ashes ; egg  sandwiches ; mangoes,  piccal- 
lilli;  Chili  sauce;  quince  marmalade;  baked  apples;  musk  and  nutmeg- 
melon  ; crab  apple  jelly ; grape  jelly ; black,  orange,  velvet,  sponge  and  three- 
ply  cake ; combination  pie. 


•ft 


$ 


»m 


JL 


©OOK^S  TIME  TABLE. 


COOK’S  TIME  TABLE. 


Mode  of 

Preparation. 

Time  of 

Cooking. 

Time  of 

Diges’n 

Raw 

H.  M. 

H.  M. 

2 50 
1 50 

3 00 

Raw 

Apple  Dumpling, 

Boiled 

1 00 

Raw 

2 00 
2 30 

Asparagus 

Boiled 

15  to  30 

Barley.^ 

Boiled 

3 00 

2 00 

Beans,  (pod) 

Boiled 

1 00 

2 SO 

Beans  with  green  corn 

Boiled 

45 

3 45 

Roaste 

25 

3 00 

Beef,  seasoned  with  salt 

Boiled 

25 

2 45 

Beef,  with  mustard,  etc 

Boiled 

25 

3 30 

Beefsteak 

Broiled 

15 

3 00 

Beefsteak 

Fried 

15 

4 00 

Beef,  salted 

Boiled 

* 

35 

4 15 

Bass,  fresh  

Broiled 

20 

3 00 

Beets,  young 

Boiled 

2 00 

8 45 

Beets,  old 

Boiled 

4 30 

4 00 

Bread,  corn 7 

Baked 

45 

3 15 

Bread,  wheat , 

Baked 

1 00 

3 30 

Butter 

Melted 

3 30 

Cabbage 

Raw 

2 30 

Cabbage  and  vinegar 

Raw 

2 00 

Cabbie 

Boiled 

1 00 

4 30 

Cauliflower 

Boiled 

1—2  00 

2 35 

Cake,  sponge 

Baked 

45 

2 31 

Cake,  corn 

Baked 

30 

3 00 

Carrot,  orange 

Boiled 

1 00 

3 30 

Cheese,  old . 

Raw 

3 45 

Chicken 

Fricasseed 

1 00 

3 00 

Codfish,  dry  and  whole 

Boiled 

15 

2 45 

Custard  (one  quart) 

Baked 

30 

2 00 

Duck,  tame 

Roasted 

1 30 

4 00 

Duck,  wild 

Roasted 

1 00 

4 30 

Dumpling,  apple 

Boiled 

1 00 

3 00 

Eggs,  hard 

Boiled 

10 

3 30 

Eggs,  soft 

Boiled 

3 

3 30 

Fried 

6 

3 00 

Raw 

2 00 

Whipped 

1 30 

Fowls,  domestic,  roasted  or 

Boiled 

1 00 

4 00 

Goose,  wild 

Roasted 

* 

20 

2 30 

Hash,  Meat  and  Vegetables,  warmed  over 

2 30 

Lamb 

Boiled 

* 

20 

2 30 

Meat  and  vegetables 

Hashed 

30 

2 30 

Milk ■’ 

Raw 

2 10 

Milk 

Boiled 

2 00 

Mutton 

Roast 

* 

20 

2 15 

Mutton,  boiled  or - 

Broiled 

25 

3 00 

Onions 

Boiled 

1-^  00 

3 00 

58 


cook’s  time  table. 


Oysters 

Oysters 

Oysters,  fresh 

Parsnips 

Pig’s  feet 

Pork 

Pork 

Pork,  raw  or 

Pork 

Potatoes 

Potatoes 

Potatoes 

Rice 

Sago 

Salmon,  fresh 

Salmon,  salted 

Sausage 

Sausage 

Soup,  marrowbones 

Soup,  beans 

Soup,  barley 

Soup,  vegetable 

Soup,  chicken 

Boup,  oyster  or  mutton 

Bpinacn 

Tapioca 

Tomatoes 

Tomatoes 

I rout,  salmon,  fresh,  boiled  or. 

turkey,  boiled  or 

lurnips 

\eal 

^'eal,  fresh 

Venison  Steak  


Mode  of 

Time^ 

fime  di 

Preparation. 

Cooking. 

Diges’n. 

Roasted 

"“T55 

. Stewed 

& 

3 05 

Raw 

Boiled 

1 00 

255 
2 80 

Soused 

1 00 

Roast  ed 

• 80 

5 15 

Boiled 

• 25 

480 

Fried 

Broiled 

20 

4 15 
315 

Boiled 

80 

3 30 

Baked 

45 

2 30 

Roasted 

45 

2 30 

Boiled 

20 

1 00 

Boiled 

15 

1 45 

Boiled 

8 

1 45 

Boiled 

4 00 

Fried 

25 

4 00 

Broiled 

20 

3 30 

Boiled 

3 00 

4 15 

Bailed 

3 00 

300 

Boiled 

2 00 

1 30 

Boiled 

3 00 

4 00 

Boiled 

200 

300 

Boiled 

•i-3  30 

830 

Boiled 

1—2  00 

2 30 

Boiled 

1 30 

200 

Fresh 

1 00 

2 30 

Canned 

30 

280 

Fried 

30 

130 

Roasted 

* 20 

230 

Boiled 

46 

330 

Broiled 

20 

400 

Fried 

80 

4 30 

Broiled 

20 

185 

♦Minutes  to  the  pound,  f Mutton  soup 

The  time  given  is  the  general  average;  this  tiiue  will  vary  slightly  with  the  quality  of  the 
article. 


TABLE  OF  WEIGHTS  AND  MEASURES. 


TABLE  OF  WEiaiTTS  AND  MEASTJF 


1  quart  oatmeal  weighs  1 H). 

1 quart  unsifted  flour  weighs  1 ft,  1 oz. 

1 quart  sifted  flour  (well  heaped)  weighs  1 ft 

3 coffee-cups  sifted  flour  (level)  weigh  1 ft. 

4 tea-cups  sifted  flour  (level)  weigh  1 ft. 

1 quart  of  sifted  Indian  meal  weighs  1 ft  4 oz. 

2%  coffee-cups  Indian  meal  (level)  equal  1 qt. 

SFa  tea-cups  Indian  meal  (level)  equal  1 qt. 

1^  pints  of  powdered  sugar  weigh  1 ft. 

2 coffee-cups  powdered  sugar  (level)  weigh  1 ft. 

2%  tea-cups  powdered  sugar  (scant)  weigh  1 ft. 

1 pint  granulated  sugar  (heaped)  weighs  14  oz. 

1%  coffee-cups  granulate(^  sugar  (level)  weigh  1 ft. 

2 tea-cups  granulated  sugar  (level)  weigh  1 ft. 

1 pint  coffee  “A”  sugar  weighs  12  oz. 

1%  coffee-cups  coffee  “A”  sugar  (level)  weigh  1 ft. 

2 tea-cups  coffee  “A”  sugar  (well  heaped),  weigh  1 ft, 

1 pint  of  best  brown  sugar  weighs  13  oz. 

coffee-cups  best  brown  sugar  (level)  weigh  1 ft. 

2)4,  tea-cups  best  brown  sugar  (level)  weigh  1 ft 

1 pint  soft  butter  (well  packed)  weighs  1 

2 tea-cups  soft  butter  (well  packed)  weigh  1 ft. 

Soft  butter  size  of  an  egg  weighs  2 oz. 

1 tablespoon  of  soft  butter  (well  rounded)  weighs  1 oa. 

4 tablespoons  soft  butter  (well  heaped)  equal  one  tea-cqg). 

1 pint  bread-crumbs  weighs  7 oz. 

2 tablespoons  bread-crumbs  weigh  1 oz. 

14  tablespoons  bread-crumbs  equal  1 pint. 

1 quart  finely-chopped  suet  weighs  1 ft. 

1 pint  finely  chopped  raw  meat,  (well  packed)  weighs  1 lb. 

1 scant  quart  raisins,  (before  cleaning)  weighs  1 lb. 

10  medium-sized  or  8 large  eggs  weigh  1 ft. 

1 1-6  tablespoons  rice  weigh  1 oz. 

3 tablespoons  sweet  chocolate  (grated)  weigh  1 oz. 

1 tablespoon  (well  heaped)  of  common  salt  weighs  1 oz. 

5 tablespoons  sifted  flour  or  meal  (heaping)  equal  1 teacup. 

7 tablespoons  granulated  BUgar(heaping)  equal  one  teacup. 

2 tablespoons  (well-rounded)  of  powdered  sugar  or  flour  weigh  1 oz 

2 teaspoons  (heaping)  of  flour,  sugar  or  meal,  equal  1 heaping  taolespoon, 
1 tablespoon  (well  heaped)  granulated  coffee  “A”  or  best  orown  sugai,  x 
1 tablespoon  soda  (slightly  heaping)  weighs  1 oz. 

LIQUIDS. 

4 teacupfuls  equal  1 qt. 

8 tablespoons  equal  1 gill. 

16  tahlespooonfuls  equal  )4  pint. 

1 teacupful  equals  8 fluid  oz.  or  2 gills. 


TABLE  OF  WEIGHTS  AND  MEASURES, 


1 pint  contains  16  fluid  ounces  (4  gills.) 

1 ounce  contains  8 fluid  drachms  (34  giU-) 

1 teaspoon  contains  about  1 fluid  drachm. 

1 tablespoon  contains  about  34  fluid  ounce. 

A common-sized  tumbler  bolds  about  ^ pint. 

4teaspoonfuls  equal  one  tablespoon  or  34  fluid  ounce. 

1 wine-glass  full  (common-size)  equals  4 tablespoons  or  2 fluid  oz. 

A teaspoonful  (for  brevity,  teaspoon  is  used  for  teaspoonful  in  the  recipes  of  this  book) 
is  equal  in  volume  to  45  drops  of  pure  water  (distilled)  at  60  deg.  Pah.  Teaspoons  vary  so 
much  in  size  that  there  is  a wide  margin  of  difference  in  containing  capacity. 


AVOIRDUPOIS  WEIGHT. 

16  drams  (dr.  make  1 ounce  (oz.)  25  pounds  make  1 quarter  (qr.) 

16  ounces  make  1 pound  (lb.)  4 quarters  make  1 hundred  weight  (cwt.). 

2000  weight  makes  1 ton  (T). 


LIQUID  MEASURE. 

4 gills  (gi.)  make  1 pint  (pt.)  1 2 pints  make  IJquart  (qt.) 

i.  quarts  make  1 gallon  (gal.)  1 


WEIGHTS  OF  ARTICLES. 


A-Pples,  dried,  bushel  25  pounds. 
Beef,  firkin,  100  “ 

Pork  barrel,  200  “ 

Beans,  bushel,  60  “ 

Butter,  firkin,  56  “ 

“ tub,  84  “ 

Peaches,  dried,  bushel,33  “ 

Fish,  barrel,  200  “ 

“ quintal,  112  “ 


Flour,  barrel,  net,  196  pounds. 
Honey,  gallon,  12  “ 

Molasses,  hhd.,  130  to  150  gallons, 
Salt,  barrel,  334  bushels. 

“ bushel,  70  pounds. 

Sugar,  barrel,  200  to  250  pounds. 
Soap,  barrel,  256  “ 

“ box,  75  “ 

Tea,  chest,  60  to  84  “ 


WHEN  FOOD  IS  IN  SEASON. 


917 


WHEN  FOOD  IS  IN  SEASON. 

Apples  are  in  season  all  the  year ; cheapest  from  August  until  spring. 
Artichokes  (Jerusalem)  are  ready  for  use  in  September. 

Asparagus  from  the  first  of  May  until  middle  of  June. 

Bass,  a fish  of  which  there  are  a dozen  varieties,  at  all  times  of  the  yeair 
Beans,  String,  June  to  November;  Lima,  from  July  through  the  year. 
Beef  is  good  at  all  seasons  of  the  year. 

Beets  from  June  through  the  year. 

Blackberries  from  July  to  September. 

Blue  Fish,  a popular  fish  on  the  sea  ccust,  from  June  to  October. 

Brant,  a choice  wild  fowl,  April  and  May,  and  September  and  October. 
Bream,  a fish  sometimes  known  as  dace,  in  the  winter  months. 

Broccoli,  a kind  of  cabbage,  from  September  to  November. 

Buckwheat  Cakes  in  cold  weather. 

Butternuts  ripen  in  September. 

Cabbage,  May  and  June  and  lasts  through  the  winter. 

Carrots  come  from  the  south,  in  May,  and  last  until  November. 
Cauliflower  from  June  until  October, 

Celery  from  August  to  April,  but  is  better  after  being  touched  by  frost. 
Checkerberry  in  winter  and  spring. 

Cheese  all  the  year  round. 

Cherries  from  the  south  in  May,  and  continue  till  August. 

Chestnuts  after  the  first  severe  frost. 

Chocolate  is  best  in  cold  weather,  on  account  of  its  richness. 

Chub,  a fresh-water  fish,  in  fall  and  winter. 

Clams  from  May  until  September. 

Conger  Eels  from  November  to  April. 

Corn,  Green,  from  June  to  September, 

Crabs  from  June  to  January,  but  are  more  wholesome  in  the  cold  months., 
Cranberries  from  September  to  April. 

Cucumbers  in  the  south,  April ; in  Middle  States  June  to  November. 
Currants,  green,  June  to  July  ; ripe  July  to  August. 

Damsons,  a small  black  plum,  July  to  December. 

Doves  the  turtle,  one  of  the  best  aaine  birds,  in  August  and  September. 


918 


WHEN  FOOD  IS  IN  SEA.SON. 


Bucks,  Domestic,  are  oest  in  June  and  July;  wild  in  spring  or  lall.  - 
Eels  from  April  till  November. 

Eggs  are  are  always  in  season,  but  are  cheap  in  spring  and  high  in  winter. 
Elderbereies  August  and  September. 

Fish,  as  a rule  are  in  best  condition  just  before  spawning. 

Geese,  wild  from  October  to  December,  tame  at  four  months  old. 
Gooseberries  from  June  to  December. 

Grapes  from  September  "’d  winter. 

Guinea  Fowl,  best  in  winter  when  they  take  the  place  of  partridges. 
Haddock,  from  November  and  December  and  June  and  July. 

Halibut  in  season  all  the  year. 

Herring  from  February  to  May, 

Herbs  for  seasoning  should  be  gathered  just  as  they  begin  to  flower. 
Horseradish  is  always  in  season. 

Lamb  in  March,  but  from  June  to  August  is  best  as  well  as  cheapest. 
Lemons  arrive  fresh  from  West  Indies  in  winter. 

Lobsters  are  plentiful  in  market,  except  in  winter  months. 

Mackerel  from  May  through  the  summer. 

Mushrooms  are  most  plentiful  in  August  and  September. 

Muskmelons  from  July  to  the  middle  of  September. 

Mutton  is  in  season  all  the  year,  but  is  not  so  good,  in  the  fall,  the  meat  be^ 
ing  drier  and  strong  flavored. 

Onions,  new,  large,  from  the  Bermudas  about  May  1st,  and  from  the  south 
in  June,  and  those  of  home  raising  in  the  Middle  States  the  middle  of  July. 

Oranges  from  Florida  and  West  Indies  are  in  market  from  October  until 
April ; those  from  the  Mediterranean  from  January  until  May.  The  Floridu 
oranges  ai-e  best  and  largest. 

Oysters  are  in  season  from  September  to  May ; May,  June  and  July  be 
ing  the  spawning  months. 

Partridges,  Pheasants  or  Kufiled  Grouse,  are  in  season  in  most  marketM 
from  September  to  January,  but  are  best  in  October  and  November. 
Paw-Paws  are  ripe  about  the  middle  of  September. 

Peas,  Green,  reach  market  from  Bermudas  about  May  1 ; from  the  South 
May  15  ; home  grown,  in  the  Middle  States,  about  June  15. 

Peaches  come  from  the  Bermudas  May  1 from  the  south  July  1 ; and  are 
plenty  in  market  from  August  to  November. 

Pears  which  are  best  for  eating  are  in  season  from  August  to  October, 
Pickerel  is  best  from  September  to  March. 

Pigeons,  wild  are  plentiful  in  September  and  October. 

Pork  should  never  be  eaten  in  warm  weather. 

Potatoes,  new,  arrive  from  the  Bermudas  about  April ; from  the  South 
June  to  July,  and  are  plentiful  in  July  and  August. 

Potatoes,  Sweet, are  in  season  from  August  to  December,  after  which  they 
lose  their  flavor. 

Prairie  Chickens  in  season  from  August  to  October. 


WHEN  FOOD  IS  IN  SEASON. 


9*9 


Pkuxks  arrive  fresh  from  December  to  May. 

Pumpkins  are  in  season  from  September  to  January. 

Quail  (often  called  Partridge  in  the  South)  from  November  and  December. 
Quinces  are  in  season  from  October  to  December. 

Rabbits  are  in  best  condition  in  November,  but  are  in  season  from  Sep- 
tember till  January,  and  in  the  North  later,  until  breeding* season  begins. 
Radishes  are  in  season  from  April  till  cold  weather. 

Rail,  an  excellent  little  game  bird,  is  best  in  September  and  October. 
Raspberries  are  in  market  from  the  middle  of  June  till  September. 
Reed-Birds  are  best  in  September  and  October. 

Rhubarb  from  April  to  September. 

Salmon  from  March  till  September. 

Shad  arppear  in  market  from  February  20  to  June. 

Smelts  are  abundant  from  October  to  April. 

Snipe  are  in  market  from  March  20  to  April  20,  and  again  in  October. 
Spinach  is  the  earliest  vegetable  used  for  greens, and  is  continued  through 
the  season  by  providing  a succession  of  crops. 

Squash — Summer,  from  June  to  August;  winter  from  August  through  the 
winter. 

Strawberries  from  the  South  appear  as  early  as  April  1,  but  are  not  plen- 
tiful until  June,  and  the  season  is  over  in  July 
Sturgeon  from  April  to  September. 

Suckers  from  October  to  April. 

Tomatoes  are  not  plentiful  in  Northern  markets  before  June. 

Trout,  Brook,  are  in  season  from  March  till  August, ; lake  trout  from  Oc- 
tober to  March  ; Mackinaw  trout  in  winter  months. 

Turkeys  are  best  in  fall  and  winter,  though  in  market  all  the  season. 
Turnips,  new,  are  in  market  about  June  1,  and  last  through  the  year. 
Turtles  are  in  market  from  May  to  winter. 

Veal  is  in  season  except  in  hot  weather,  when  it  keeps  badly. 

Venison  from  the  buck  is  best  from  August  to  November,  from  the  doe 
rom  November  to  January. 

Watermelons  are  in  season  from  July  to  October. 

Woodcock  is  in  season  from  July  to  November,  but  is  best  in  October, 


920 


COMPARATIVE  VALUE  OF  FUEL. 


COMF^AIiATIVE  VALUE  OF  FUEL. 


A ^orJ  oi  wood  is  128  cubic  feet;  the  sticks  are  cut  four  feet  long  and 
piled  four  feet  high,  and  in  a pile  eight  feet  long.  Wood  cut  to  stove  length, 
eighteen  to  twenty  inches,  is  sometimes  sold  as  a cord,  when  only  eight  feet 
long,  four  feet  high,  and  as  wide  as  the  sticks  are  long,  but  it  is  not,  of 
course,  really  a cord.  The  fair  way  to  sell  fuel,  however,  would  be  by  weight ; 
and  when  weights  are  equal  the  wood  containing  the  most  hydrogen  will  pro- 
duce vhe  most  heat.  Thus,  one  hundred  pounds  of  dry  pine  are  worth  more 
as  fuel  than  the  same  number  of  pounds  of  dry  oak.  Wood  can  never  be 
economically  used  in  a green  state,  as  it  then  contains  about  25  per  cent,  of 
water, which  must  be  evaporated,  and  all  the  heat  required  to  evaporate  this 
sap  is  wasted.  We  give  below  a table,  in  which  shell-bark  hickory  is  made 
the  standard  of  comparison,  rated  at  100  in  value  and  1000  in  weight,  and  the 
weights  of  other  varieties  show  their  comparative  value, which  may  be  read- 
ily estimated  in  dollars  and  cents.  For  instance,  if  hickory  is  worth  $7.00 
per  cord,  the  proper  value  of  white  oak  would  be  $4.86.  for  as  100  (hickory) 
is  to  $6.00,  so  is  81  to  the  value  of  white  oak,  $4.86. 


WOODS. 

Comparative 
W eight. 

Weight  per 
Cord. 

Comp. 

Value. 

SRplI-Uark  TTipkotv * 

1000 

4469 

100 

White  Walnut 

949 

4241 

95 

Wliifp  Otik 

855 

3821 

81 

Wliite  Ash  

722 

3450 

77 

SpvnK  Oak  

747 

3339 

73 

Oalr  

728 

3255 

69 

Flack  AValnut  

681 

3044 

65 

IVhite  Beech  

724 

3236 

65 

Yellow  tiak 

653 

2916 

60 

Sugar  Maple 

wiiite  Elm  . 

644 

580 

2878 

3592 

60 

58 

"N’^pllnw-'ninP 

551 

2463 

54 

W’vrpmTinT’P  

535 

2391 

52 

Chestnut  

522 

2233 

52 

Bmal ar  .......  .....  

563 

2516 

52 

Bitpb-nine  

426 

1904 

43 

"WViit.p-DiTie  

418 

1868 

42 

Lombardy  Poplar 

397 

1774 

40 

COMPAEATIVE  VALUE  OF  FUEL. 


921 


The  quantity  of  combustible  matter  in  fuel,  if  weight  and  other  conditions 
are  equal,  is  indicated  by  the  amount  of  ashes  or  non-combustible  matter 
remaining.  The  heating  power  of  fuel  is  dependent  partly  on  this,  but  not 
wliolly.  Fuel  is  valuable  for  various  purposes  in  proportion  to  the  flame  it 
produces.  A blaze  is  of  great  service  when  heat  is  to  be  applied  to  a great 
surface  ; but  where  an  even  or  lasting  heat  is  required,  a more  solid  fuel  is  to 
be  preferred. 

The  various  qualities  of  bituminous,  or  soft,  and  anthracite  coals,  as  sold 
indifl'erent  markets,  makes  it  impossible  to  give  any  accurate  comparison  of 
values.  Measured  by  pounds,  if  anthracite  is  made  the  standard  at  250,  sea- 
soned oak  ranks  125,  or  one-half  in  value ; hickory,  137 ; white  pine,  137 ; 
yellow  pine,  145,  coke,  285  ; while  the  bituminous  coals  vary  from  188  to  248. 

As  regards  the  different  kinds  of  bituminous  or  soft  coal  each  locality 
has  its  preference,  but  the  “Briar  Hill”  is  well  known  and  very  popular.  Of 
the  anthracite  or  hard,  it  is  the  same,  there  being  many  kinds,  although 
many  prefer  the  “Lehigh.”  In  all  hard  coal  there  are  four  grades  most 
commonly  used : the  finest,  for  stoves,  both  cook  and  heating;  Stove, 

next  larger,  which  is  often  used  alone  for  stoves,  but  is  best  when  used  with 
Nut,  half  and  half ; if  there  is  a good  draft  to  the  chimney,  it  is  more  econO' 
mical  than  using  all  Nut.  ^gg,  next  in  size  and  used  for  grates,  open  stoves 
and  furnaces.  Grate,  the  largest  size  used  for  large  furnaces ; but  when  used 
with  Egg,  half  and  half  makes  a more  economical  fuel  for  house  furnaces, 
where  there  is  a good  draft  to  the  chimney,  than  egg  used  alone,  especially 
in  very  cold  weather.  One  should  try  it  thus. 


922 


HOUSEKEEPING. 


KOUSEKEEPmO-^ 


/ 


Housekeeping,  whatever  may  be  the  opinion  of  the  butterflies  of  the 
period,  is  an  accomplishment  in  comparison  to  which,  in  its  bearing  &n  wom- 
an’s relation  to  real  life  and  to  the  family,  all  others  are  trivial.  It  compre- 
hends all  that  goes  to  make  up  a well-ordered  home,  where  the  sweetest  re- 
lations of  life  rest  on  firm  foundations,  and  the  purest  sentiments  thrive.  It 
is  an  accomplishment  that  may  be  acquired  by  study  and  experiment,  but  the 
young  and  inexperienced  housekeeper  generally  reaches  success  only  throng]  i 
great  tribulation.  It  ought  to  be  absorbed  in  girlhood,  by  easy  lessons  taken 
between  algebra,  music  and  painting.  If  girls  were  taught  to  take  as  much 
genuine  pride  in  dusting  a room  well,  hanging  a curtain  gracefully,  or  broil- 
ing a steak  to  a nicety,  as  they  feel  when  they  have  mastered  one  of  Mozart’s 
or  Beethoven’s  grand  symphonies,  there  would  be  fewer  complaining  hus- 
bands and  unhappy  wives.  The  great  lesson  to  learn  is  that  work  well-done 
is  robbed  of  its  curse.  The  w’oman  who  is  satisfied  only  with  the  highest  per- 
fection in  her  work,  drops  the  drudge  and  becomes  the  artist.  There  is  no 
dignity  in  slighted  work  ; but  to  the  artist,  no  matter  how  humble  his  calling, 
belongs  the  honor  which  is  inseparable  from  all  man’s  struggles  after  per- 
fection. No  mother,  who  has  the  happiness  of  her  daughter  at  heart,  will 
neglect  to  teach  her  first  the  duties  of  the  household  ; and  no  daughter  who 
aspires  to  be  queen  at  home  and  in  her  circle  of  friends,  can  afford  to  remain 
ignorant  of  the  smallest  details  that  contribute  to  the  comfort,  the  peace  and 
the  attractiveness  of  home.  There  is  no  luck  in  housekeeping,  however  it 
may  seem.  Everything  works  by  exact  rule,  and  even  with  thorough  knowl- 
edge, eternal  vigilance  is  the  price  of  success.  There  must  be  a place  for 
every  thing  and  every  thing  in  its  place,  a time  for  every  thing  and  every  thing 
in  its  time,  and  “patience,  patience,”  must  be  written  in  glowing  capitals 
all  over  the  walls.  The  reward  is  sure.  Your  husband  may  admire  your  grace 
and  ease  in  society,  your  wit,  your  school-day  accomplishments  of  music  and 
painting,  but  all  in  perfection  will  not  atone  for  an  ill-ordered  kitchen,  sour 
bread,  muddy  coffee,  tough  meats, unpalatable  vegetables,  indigestible  pastry. 


HOUSEKEEPING. 


and  the  whole  train  of  horrors  that  result  from  bad  housekeeping ; on  the 
other  hand,  success  wins  gratitude  and  attachment  in  the  home-circle,  and 
adds  luster  to  the  most  brilliant  intellectual  accomplishments. 

One  of  the  first  ideas  the  young  housekeeper  should  divest  herself  of  is, 
that  because  she  is  able,  or  expects  some  time  to  be  able,  to  keep  servants, 
it  is  therefore  unnecessary  to  understand  household  duties,  and  to  bear  their 
responsibility.  “Girls”  are  quick  to  see  and  note  the  ignorance  of  the  inca 
pacity  of  the  mistress  of  the  house,  and  few  are  slow  to  take  whatever  ad- 
vantage it  brings  them,  but  the  capacity  of  a mistress  at  once  establishes 
discipline.  The  model  house  should  not  be  large,  nor  too  fine  and  pretentious 
for  daily  use.  The  mistress  of  many  a fine  mansion  is  the  veriest  household 
drudge.  A great  house,  with  its  necessary  retinue  of  servants,  is  not  in 
keeping  with  the  simplicity  of  a republic  where  trained  servants  are  not 
known,  and  is  seldom  pleasant  for  the  family  or  attractive  to  friends.  Furn- 
iture should  be  selected  for  comfort  rather  than  show.  Most  modern  chairs 
put  their  occupants  to  torture,  and  tlirow  them  into  attitudes  any  thing  but 
graceful.  Comfortable  chairs  should  have  broad  seats,  and  a part  at  least 
low  seats  for  women  and  children.  Nothing  is  more  out  of  taste  and  “shoddy” 
than  to  crowd  rooms  with  furniture,  no  matter  how  rich  or  elegant  it  may  be. 
Nor  is  it  by  any  means  necessary  to  have  things  in  suites  ; variety  is  preb 
erable,  and  each  room,  especially,  should  have  an  individuality  of  its  own. 
The  modern  style  is  to  have  all  furniture  be  what  it  seems ; thus  a table 
which  often  has  a foundation  of  pine,  put  together  mostly  with  glue,  and  cov- 
ered with  a veneer  of  mahogany,  walnut,  or  other  wood,  and  ornamented 
with  carvings,  which  may  mean  something  or  nothing,  which  are  glued  to 
the  work  gives  place  to  an  honest  table  being  throughout  what  it  appears  to 
be  on  the  surface,  made  of  solid  wood ; and  if  a costly  wood  can  be  afforded — 
w^ell ; if  not,  take  a cheaper  wood,  but  let  the  table  be  just  what  it  pretends 
to  be  ; if  braces  or  bars  are  needed  for  strength,  let  them  show,  and  indicate 
whv  the}^  are  used ; and  if  ornament  is  desirable,  let  it  be  worked  in  the  ma- 
terial, and  not  glued  on.  A table  of  this  kind  will  last,  and  may  serve  for 
several  generations,  while  in  a few  years  the  pine  frame  work  warps  and 
shrinks  out  of  shape,  the  veneer  peels,  the  carving  gets  chipped  and  the 
whole  becomes  “shabby  genteel”.  Let  the  furniture  represent  solidity, 
honesty,  and  appropriateness.  Sets  are  made  of  plain  woods,  such  as  ash 
and  walnut,  inlaid  with  porcelain  tiles,  and  ornamented  with  old-fashioned 
brass  rings  and  handles.  They  are  valued  atfrom  thirty  to  two  hundred  and 
fifty  dollars.  Bedroom  sets  of  French  and  English  walnut,  with  inlaid 
woods,  gilt  and  bronze  ornaments,  and  variegated  marbles,  are  sold  from 
thirtv-five  to  fifteen  hundred  dollai^.  Parlor  sets  of  rich,  carved  woods,  and 
satin,  damask,  cashmere,  brocade  and  tapestry  coverings,  etc.,  range  in 
price  from  one  hundred  to  twelve  hundred  dollars.  Ebony  cabinets  inlaid 
with  ivory,  and  richly  ornamented  are  worth  from  two  to  eighteen  hundred 
dollars.  Marquetry  tables,  work  tables,  library  tables, Oriental  chairs, lounges, 
easels,  music  racks,  etc  , of  rich  loaterial  and  design,  are  valued  at  from  ten 


924 


HOUSEKEEPING. 


to  one  hundred  to  one  hundred  and  fifty  dollars.  The  principal  woods  used  ar'fc 
walnuts  of  various  kinds,  ash,  bird’s-eye  maple,  satinwood  and  kingwood . 
Kingwood  is  almost  crimson  in  color.  Book  cases  are  of  all  prices  from  twenty 
to  fourteen  hundred  dollars,  and  side-boards  from  seventy-five  to  one  thous' 
and  dollars.  It  is  agood  rule  in  selecting  furniture,  not  to  buy  anything  not 
actually  needed,  to  buy  the  best  of  its  kind, and  to  pay  cash  or  not  buy.  Never 
get  any  thing  because  some  one  else  has  it,  and  do  not  be  afraid  to  wait  for 
bargains.  Wise  young  housekeepers  buy  furniture  in  single  pieces  or  small 
lots,  as  they  have  means,  rather  than  expend  more  than  they  can  a,fibrd  in 
entire  sets,  which  are  really  less  attractive. 

Carpets  or  rugs  should,  as  a rule,  be  of  small  patterns.  The  stoves— -if 
grates  or  fire-places  are  not  used — should  be  of  the  kind  that  may  be  thrown 
open  or  closed  at  pleasure.  If  a furnace  is  used,  great  care  must  be  taken 
that  the  rooms  are  not  kept  too  hot  in  winter,  and  that  there  is  most  thor- 
ough ventilation,  as  the  health  of  the  family  depends  as  much  on  the  quality 
of  the  air  they  breathe  as  the  food  they  eat.  To  waste  heat  is  not  so  bad  as 
to  waste  health  and  vigor,  and  fuel  is  always  cheaper,  on  the  score  of  econ- 
omy, than  doctors’  bills.  In  furnace-heated  houses — and  the  furnace  seems 
to  be  accepted  as  the  best  heater,  though  apparatus  for  steam  and  hot  water 
seems  likely  to  be  so  perfected  as  to  supplant  it  by  furnishing  a milder  and 
more  agreeable  heat,  entirely  free  from  noxious  gases — there  should  always 
be  grates  or  fire-places  in  living  or  sleeping  rooms ; and  w’henever  the  furn- 
ace heat  is  turned  on,  there  should  be  a little  fire,  at  least  enough  to  start 
the  column  of  air  in  the  chimney  and  secure  ventilation.  It  is  a common 
mistake  to  buy  too  small  a furnace  or  other  heating  apparatus.  This  ought  to  be 
ample  for  the  weather,  so  that  ordinarily  it  need  not  be  kex>t  up  to  its 

full  capacity.  When  a furnace  is  heated  too  hot,  the  little  particles  of  dust 
afloat  in  the  air  are  charred,  and  the  air  has  a burnt  flavor,  as  unwholesome 
as  it  it  disagreeable.  Without  a fire,  chimneys  are  apt  to  draw  down  a current 
of  cold  air.  If  there  are  no  grates  or  fire-places,  do  not  rely  on  airing  rooms 
from  the  halls,  but  throw  open  the  windows  and  take  in  the  outside  air.  This 
is  especially  necessary  when  a room  is  used  as  a study,  or  for  an  invalid.  The 
air  from  the  halls,  although  cold,  is  not  pure.  House-plants  will  not  thrive  in 
furnace-heated  houses  where  gas  is  burned  without  fresh  air,  andlmman  be- 
ings, especially  the  5mung  and  delicate,  need  quite  as  pure  air  as  plants.  In  a 
study,  or  other  room  much  occupied,  the  windows  may  be  dropped  during 
meals,  and  the  room  warmed  anew  before  it  is  needed  again.  There  must  also 
be  plenty  of  sunlight, floods  of  it  in  every  room,  even  if  the  carpets  do  fade  ; and 
the  housekeeper  must  be  quick  to  note  any  scent  or  decay  from  vegetables  or 
meats  in  the  cellar,  or  from  slops  or  refuse  carelessly  thrown  about  the  prem- 
ises. Many  a case  of  fatal  diphtheria  or  typhoid  fever  may  be  traced  directly 
to  the  noxious  vapors  arising  from  decaying  matter  in  a cellar,  the  outside  of 
which  is  fair  to  look  upon,  while  the  parlors  and  living  rooms  are  kept  with 
perfect  neatness.  Such  houses  are  whited  sepulchers,  and  the  inmates  are 
doomed  to  pay  the  penalty  of  ignorance  or  carelessness.  Everv  room  must 


HOUSEKEEPING. 


925 


be  clean  and  sweet.  In  sickness,  care  in  all  these  respects  must  be  doubled. 
In  damp  and  chill  autumn  and  spring  days,  a little  fire  is  comfortable  morn- 
ing and  evening.  The  food  for  the  family  must  be  fresh  to  be  wholesome, 
and  it  is  economy  to  buy  the  best  as  there  is  less  waste  in  it.  No  housekeeper 
ought  to  be  satisfied  with  any  but  the  very  best  cooking,  without  which  the 
most  wholesome  food  is  unpalatable  and  distressing ; and  no  consideration  of 
economy  should  ever  induce  her  to  place  on  the  table  bread  with  the  slight- 
est sour  tinge,  cake  or  pudding  in  the  least  heavy  or  solid,  or  meat  with  the 
slightest  taint.  Their  use  means  disease  and  [costly  doctor’s  bills,  to  say 
nothing  of  her  own  loss  of  repute  as  an  accomplished  housekeeper.  If  chil- 
dren and  servants  do  work  improperly,  she  should  quietly  insist  on  its  being 
done  correctly,  and  in  self-defense  they  will  soon  do  it  directly  without  super- 
vision. Order  and  system  mean  the  stopping  of  waste,  the  practice  of  econ- 
omy and  additional  means  to  expend  for  the  table  and  for  the  luxuries  and 
elegance  of  life — things  of  which  money  is  well  expended.  It  requires  good 
food  to  make  good  muscle  and  good  brain,  and  the  man  or  woman  who 
habitually  sits  down  to  badly  cooked  or  scanty  dinners,  fights  the  battle  of 
life  at  a great  disadvantage. 

SWEEPING  AND  DUSTING. 

The  sweeping  and  dusting  of  a room  seems  simple  enough,  but  is  best 
done  systematically.  “Dusters,”  made  of  old  prints,  with  which  to  cover 
books,  statuettes,  and  such  articles  as  are  difficult  to  dust,  and  larger  ones 
to  cover  beds,  are  indispensable  in  sweeping  and  dusting.  “Carpet  sweepers” 
are  only  fit  for  daily  use  when  thorough  work  is  not  required,  a thorough 
sweeping  once  or  twice  a week  sufficing  even  the  tidiest  of  housekeepers. 
Before  sweeping  open  the  blinds  and  let  in  the  light,  and  open  the  windows 
if  it  is  not  storming  or  too  windy.  Look  on  the  ceiling  for  cobwebs,  and 
sprinkle  the  carpet  over  with  moistened  bran,  salt,  damp  cofi*ee-grounds,  or 
tea-leaves.  Clean  the  corners  and  edges  with  a sharp-pointed  stick  and  stiff 
whisk-broom.  Brush  down  with  the  feather-duster  all  picture-cords,  frames, 
and  curtains,  and  remove  all  cob-webs  with  a broom  about  which  a towel 
has  been  pinned,  going  through  all  rooms  before  sweeping,  changing  the 
towel  if  necessary ; then  clear  one  corner  of  furniture  and  begin  sweeping 
toward  the  center  with  a short,  light  stroke,  going  slowly  and  carefully  so  as 
to  raise  no  dust,  and  drawing,  not  pushing,  the  broom.  The  second  time 
over,  increase  the  length  and  force  of  the  stroke,  and  the  third,  brush  with 
long  and  vigorous  strokes,  using  care  as  the  dirt  at  the  center  of  the  room  is 
approached.  In  this  way  it  will  take  tw^enty  minutes  to  sweep  a large  room, 
but  it  will  be  clean,  and  the  carpet  will  v/ear  bright  and  fresh,  much  longer 
than  if  the  dirt  were  allowed  to  grind  out  the  fabric.  After  the  sweeping  re- 
move the  “dusters”  carefully,  carrying  them  out  of  doors  to  shake,  and  rub, 
not  simply  wipe,  off  the  furniture  and  other  articles  with  a clean,  soft,  cotton 
cloth  (cheese-cloth  is  nice)  or  an  old  silk  handkerchief,  or  better,  a soft 


92(3 


HOUSEKEEPING. 


dusting-towel  with  fleecy  surface  which  is  sold  expressely  for  this  purpose, 
folding  the  dust  in  as  it  soils  the  cloth,  and  when  it  is  fllled  with  dust,  shake 
thoroughly  out  of  doors.  Managed  in  this  way,  curtains,  furniture  and  car- 
pets will  never  be  loaded  with  dust,  but  will  remain  bright,  clean  and  fresh 
from  one  year’s  house-cleaning  to  another’s.  If  any  spot  of  dust  is  too  firmly 
fixed,  wash  in  luke-warm  soap-suds,  and  immediately  rub  dry  with  chamois- 
skin.  If  there  is  open-work  carving,  draw  the  cloth  through,  or  dust  with  a 
paint-brush  ; and  it  will  be  found  more  convenient  to  blow  out  some  of  the 
places  which  are  difficult  to  reach,  for  which  purpose  a small  pair  of  bellows 
may  be  used.  To  clean  and  dust  a piano,  use  half  a yard  best  canton-flan- 
nel with  a nap  free  from  all  specks  and  grit,  brushing  lightly  over  to  remove 
the  dust ; if  there  are  finger  marks  or  spots,  rub  up  and  down  over  them,  al- 
ways keeping  flie  nap  next  to  the  instrument.  Dust  under  the  wires  may  be 
blown  out  with  a pair  of  bellows.  Keep  the  piano  closed  at  night  and  in 
damp  weather;  open  on  bright  days,  and  if  possible  let  the  sun  shine  di- 
rectly upon  the  keys,  is  the  light  will  keep  them  from  turning  yellow.  Tune 
every  spring  and  fall.  As  a last  finishing  touch  to  the  rearranging  of  the 
parlor,  leave  late  papers,  magazines,  a volume  of  poetry,  or  a steroscope  and 
views,  where  they  will  be  readily  picked  up  by  callers. 

THE  SITTING-ROOM.  ‘ 

The  sitting-room  should  be  the  pleasantest,  because  most  used,  of  all  in 
the  house.  To  prevent  moths  under  the  carpets,  grind  black  pepper  coarsely, 
mix  v'ith  camphor-gum,  and  strew  thickly  about  the  edges  and  wherever 
they  are  to  be  found.  To  clean  the  oil-cloth,  use  warm  water  without  soap, 
or,  what  is  much  better,  milk  and  water.  By  keeping  mats  at  the  doors  it 
will  only  be  necessary  to  sweep  the  sitting-room  thoroughly  once  a week, 
but  occasionally,  when  very  dusty,  it  may  be  cleaned  by  setting  a pail  of 
cold  water  by  the  door,  wet  the  broom  in  it,  knock  off  the  drops,  sweep  a 
yard  or  so,  then  wash  the  broom  as  before,  and  sweep  again,  being  careful 
to  shake  all  the  drops  off  the  broom,  and  not  to  sweep  far  at  a time.  If  done 
with  care  the  carpet  will  be  very  nicely  cleaned,  and  the  quantity  of  dirt  in 
the  water  will  be  surprising.  The  water  must  be  changed  several  times. 
Snow  sprinkled  on  and  sw^ept  off*  before  it  has  had  time  to  melt  (be  careful  to 
have  rooms  cool),  is  also  nice  for  renovating  a soiled  carpet.  'When  the 
sewing  machine  is  kept  in  the  sitting-room,  a scrap  bag  hung  on  the  end  of 
it  for  storing  all  bits  of  cloth  and  ravelings,  and  ends  of  thread,  Tvill  save 
much  sweeping.  In  summer,  wire  doors  and  windows  or  mosquito-nettings 
in  the  windows  will  keep  flies  out,  and  at  the  same  time  admit  the  air. 
Washing  wdndows  and  wiping  off  doors  once  a week  after  sweeping,  keeps 
all  tidy.  To  remove  finger-marlcs,  which  are  constantly  appearing  on  doors 
about  the  nobs,  use  a damp  cloth  as  soon  as  they  are  observed. 

THE  BED-ROOM. 

The  family  bed-room  should  be  on  the  first  floor  if  possible,  if  the  house 
s properly  built  and  there  is  no  dampness.  IMatting  is  better  for  the  floor 


HOUSEKEEPING. 


927 


than  carpet,  because  freerer  from  dust,  and  this  is  the  room  used  in  case  of 
sickness.  If  made  properly  it  will  wear  for  several  years.  Canton  mattings 
are  made  on  boats  in  pieces  about  two  yards  long,  and  afterward  joined  on 
shore  into  pieces  of  fifty  yards.  It  is  easy  to  see  where  these  short  pieces 
are  joined  ; after  cutting  into  lengths,  first  sew  these  places  across  and  across 
on  the  wrong  side,  then  sew  the  breadths  together  and  tack  down  like  a carpet. 
Matting  should  never  be  washed  with  anything  except  moderately  warmed  salt 
and  water,  in  the  proportion  of  a pint  of  salt  to  a half  pail  of  soft  water.  Dry 
quickly  with  a soft  cloth.  A bed-room  matting  should  be  washed  twice  dur- 
ing the  season ; a room  much  used  oftener.  There  should  be  a large  closet, 
a part  of  which  is  especially  set  apart  for  children’s  use,  with  low  hooks 
where  they  may  hang  their  clothes,  a box  for  stockings,  a bag  for  shoes,  and 
other  conveniences,  which  will  help  to  teach  them  system  and  order.  The 
bedding  should  be  the  best  that  can  be  afforded.  The  inner  husks  of  corn 
make  a good  underbed.  Oat  straw  is  also  excellent.  Hair  mattresses  are 
best  and,  in  the  end,  most  economical.  Mattresses  of  Spanish  moss  are 
cheaper  than  hair,  but  soon  mat  down.  Those  made  of  coarse  wool  are  ob- 
jectionable at  first  on  account  of  the  odor,  but  are  serviceable  and  less  costH 
than  hair.  When  the  woven- wire  bed  is  used,  a light  mattress  is  all  that  is 
needed ; and  this  combination  makes  the  healthiest  and  best  bed,  because  it 
affords  the  most  complete  exposure  of  the  bedding  to  air.  The  best  covering 
is  soft  woolen  blankets.  Comforters  made  of  cotton  should  be  used  with 
great  caution,  as  they  need  to  be  frequently  exposed  to  sun  and  air.  The 
best  comforter  is  made  of  delaines,  which  may  be  partly  worn  with  wool  in- 
stead of  cotton  quilted  in.  Beds  are  almost  always  made  up  too  early.  The 
thrifty  housekeeper  likes  to  have  rooms  put  to  rights  in  the  morning,  but  it 
brings  up  the  old  adage  of  “the  white  glove”  which  “hides  a dirty  hand.” 
7he  bed  should  lie  open  for  several  hours  every  morning,  and  at  least  once 
a week  all  the  bedding  should  be  thoroughly  aired.  Air  pillows  in  wind,  but 
not  in  sun. 

THE  GUEST-CHAMBER. 

The  bed  of  the  guest-chamber,  as  well  as  in  all  sleeping-rooms,  should 
stand  so  that  when  one  opens  the  eyes  in  the  morning  the  light  from  the 
window  will  not  be  directly  upon  them,  as  it  is  trying  to  weak  eyes,  and  un- 
pleasant to  strong  ones.  If  the  bed  has  a canopy  to  it,  lay  a large  sheet  of 
paper  on  top,  and  on  s’weeping  day,  it  can  be  carefully  lifted  off,  the  dust 
shaken  from  it  aud  replaced.  This  also  assists  in  keeping  the  bed  clean,  as 
dust  will  filter  through  most  material.  Keep  the  bureau  where  the  sun’s  rays 
never  strike  the  mirror,  and  where  it  will  not  be  heated  by  the  stove,  as  will 
either  will  granulate  the  amalgam.  Chambers  should  always  be  provided 
with  transoms  over  the  doors,  and  windows  arranged  so  as  to  lower  easily 
from  the  top.  Tacked  on  the  inside  of  the  wash-stand  doors,  two  crotched 
pockets  are  nice  for  bathing  sponges,  and  there  should  be  plenty  of  towels, 
especially  of  coarse,  rough  ones  which  make  a morning  bath  such  a luxury. 


928 


HOUSEKEEPING. 


It  is  a great  protection  to  all  mattresses  to  have  a covering  made  of  un« 
bleached  muslin,  which  may  be  removed  and  washed  when  soiled ; some  al- 
so have  a light  comforter  made  of  white  muslin  to  place  upon  the  mattress. 
A little  pocket  with  a flap,  made  of  a pretty  print  and  tied  down  with  a bow 
of  some  bright  colored  ribbon  makes  a useful  receptacle  for  the  dust  cloth 
(made  of  cheese  cloth)  and  can  be  hung  in  the  closet  of  all  bedrooms  or  oth- 
er rooms ; or  it  will  not  look  amiss  if  compelled  to  hang  in  a more  conspicu- 
ous place  and  will  be  found  very  convenient.  Among  the  little  accessions  to 
the  guest-room  furniture  always  add  a button  hook  and  a fancy  little  work 
basket  filled  with  needles,  thread,  scissors  and  thimble  may  not  come  amiss  to 
some  transcient  guest  in  need.  Where  one  has  a nice  library  it  is  very 
pleasant  to  scatter  a few  books  in  each  bedroom  in  the  house;  for  this 
purpose  a pretty  little  open  case  of  two  or  three  shelves  may  be  made  of 
same  kind  of  wood  in  which  the  room  is  finished,  and  when  filled  with  ap- 
propriate books  makes  a nice  ornament  as  well  as  giving  pleasure  when  a 
trip  to  the  library  could  not  be  made. 

THE  BATH  ROOM. 

This  should  occupy  as  large  a space  as  can  be  spared  and  should  be  ar- 
ranged with  a large  closet  with  shelves  and  drawers  in  which  all  things  used 
in  sickness  could  be  placed,  and  room  beneath  for  the  difierent  small  bath 
tubs  used,  A shelf  for  medicine  bottles,  camphor  bottle,  etc.,  up  out  of  the 
reach  of  children,  should  be  on  one  side  of  closet  and  either  bags  or  drawers 
for  pieces  of  flannel,  linen  and  all  cloths  necessary  in  sickness  or  case  of 
accident;  also  a small  sponge,  and  many  other  needful  things  where  there 
is  a family  of  children,  who  are  apt  to  have  many  a cut  or  wound  to  need  a 
mother’s  care.  It  is  well  to  have  the  room  ofi*  of  the  family  room  so  there 
can  be  a door  connecting  them,  as  well  as  the  main  door  out  into  hall.  An- 
other very  useful  and  convenient  room,  although  not  a necessity  is 

THE  SEWING  ROOM. 

This  is  nice  as  far  remote  from  the  living  and  sleeping  rooms  as  possible 
and  the  attic  if  finished  oflT  proves  a good  place.  In  it  have  shelves  upon 
which  to  place  the  goods  for ‘‘making  up,”  and  finished  garments  before 
putting  away ; and  on  one  side  a set  of  drawers,  divided  up  into  as  small 
spaces  as  needed,  for  dififerent  pieces,  having  silk  pieces,  woolens,  white 
goods,  etc.,  each  by  themselves.  These  drawers  are  much  more  convenient 
than  bags  for  pieces,  etc.,  as  they  are  more  easy  of  access,  for  generally  with 
a bag  the  piece  you  wish  is  at  the  bottom.  Now,  have  a shelf  on  side  of  wall 
on  hinges  to  be  used  as  ironing  board,  a sewing  table,  machine,  lap  board, 
etc.,  and  this  useful  room  is  completed. 

HOUSE-CLEANING. 

When  mother  earth  summons  the  stirring  winds  to  help  clear  away  the 
€t«ad  leaves  amd  winter  litter  for  the  coming  grass  and  flowers,  ©very  house- 


HOUSEKEEPING. 


929 


keeper  has  a feeling  of  sympathy,  and  begins  to  talk  of  house-cleaning.  The 
first  bright  sunshine  of  spring  reveals  unsuspected  dust  and  cobwebs,  and  to 
her  immagination  even  the  scrubbing-brushes  and  brooms  seem  anxious  to 
begin  the  campaign.  In  northern  latitudes  it  is  best,  however,  not  to  begin 
too  soon.  Do  not  trust  entirely  to  appearances,  for  spring  is  almost.certain 
to  break  her  promises  of  pleasant  weather,  and  give  us  a good  many  days 
when  it  will  be  anything  but  pleasant  to  sit  shivering  in  a fireless  room, 
while  the  children  become  unmanageable  and  husband  growls.  So,  for  the 
sake  of  health,  peace,  and  comfort,  do  not  remove  the  stoves  before  the  mid- 
dle of  May. 

Devote  a week  at  least  to  preparations.  See  that  all  needed  repairs  are 
made  about  the  house,  and  have  all  necessary  tools  on  hand  and  in  good  or- 
der. Provide  lime  for  whitewashing,  carpet-tacks,  good  soap,  sawdust,  car- 
bolic acid,  copperas,  and  spirits  of  ammonia.  Have  closets,  bureau  drawers, 
etc.,  all  thoroughly  renovated.  Reorganize  sewing  table,  arrange  bags  for 
the  odds  and  ends  that  have  accumulated  during  the  winter,  having  different 
ones  for  each  article,  and  marking  the  outside  in  some  way ; for  instance, 
for  the  button-bag,  sew  one  on  the  outside,  and  so  on ; or  if  w'hite  they  may 
be  marked  with  indellible  ink.  Put  pieces  of  ribbon,  velvet,  lace,  flowers, 
etc.,  in  a box,  and  have  it  in  readiness  for  the  spring  ‘‘fixing  up.’’  While 
this  renovating  is  being  done,  have  “the  boys”  cleaning  the  yard  of  the 
winter  rubbish  and  debris,  as  this  is  far  more  important  in  a sanitary  point 
point  of  view  than  inside  house-cleaning.  When  you  begin  do  not  upset  all 
the  house  at  once,  driving  your  husband  to  distraction,  and  the  children  to 
the  neighbors.  By  cleaning  one  or  two  rooms  at  a time,  and  using  a little 
womanly  tact,  the  whole  house  may  be  renovated  with  little  inconvenience. 

If  you  are  a “lone  woman”  you  will  need  the  help  of  one  stout  girl  at 
the  least,  unless  you  are  stouter  than  the  average  American  woman,  or  your 
house  is  very  small.  Hire  her  at  least  the  week  before,  so  that  she  can  get 
accustomed  to  the  house  and  your  way  of  doing  work.  Be  sure  you  wash  and 
iron  every  thing  you  can  find  that  is  soiled.  Then,  on  Saturday,  do  an  extra 
large  baking,  so  you  will  have  sufficient  bread,  cakes,  etc,,  to  do  you  the 
most  of  the  next  week.  Make  Sunday  truly  a day  of  rest.  Then,  on  Monday, 
be  up  early ; after  breakfast  leave  the  girl  to  wash  the  dishes,  sweep,  and 
put  things  in  order  up  stairs,  and  you  take  a man  and  go  to  the 

CELLAR ; 

First  have  everything  taken  out  of  the  cellar  that  does  not  actually  be- 
long there.  The  reason  for  cleaning  the  cellar  first  is,  that  it  is  generally  left 
to  the  last  wffien  all  are  tired  and  nearly  worn  out,  and  is  apt  to  get  what  is 
called  a “lick  and  a promise.”  The  cellar  should  be  one  of  the  most  partic- 
ular places  about  the  house ; therefore  do  it  first  while  fresh  and  strong.  Af- 
ter all  the  surplus  things  are  taken  out,  move  the  rest  to  one  end,  then  give 
the  end  a good  sweeping  overhead,  down  the  sides  and  underfoot-.  Every 
particle  of  vegetable  remnants  should  be  removed,  and  the  spot  which  may 
59 


930 


HOUSEKEEPING. 


have  been  moistened  by  their  presence  thoroughly  swept,  and,  if  necessary, 
it  should  be  scrubbed  or  sprinkled  over  with  copperas  water  to  sweeten  it 
and  to  prevent  malarial  exhalations.  Boxes,  barrels,  etc.,  should  be  re- 
moved into  fresh  localities  in  the  cellar,  so  that  the  places  which  have  gath- 
ered dampness  beneath  them  may  become  dry.  All  the  gatherings  of  earth 
* irom  stored  vegetables,  and  all  the  bits  and  shreds  of  things  that  grow,  must 
le  cleared  away,  or  they  will  become  dangerous  enemies  when  exhalations 
that  always  rise  from  such  things  upon  heated  days  shall  find  their  way  into 
sleeping  apartments  to  poison  the  family  with  malarial  gases.  (The  cellar 
should  always  be  aired  as  early  as  possible  after  the  intense  cold  is  gone,  and 
all  summer  long  too  much  fresh  air  cannot  reach  its  dim  recesses.) 

Now  wash  the  windows,  and  then  whitewash  every  nook  and  corner  with 
common  whitewash  made  yellow  with  copperas.  Do  not  be  saving,  and  all 
vermin  will  bid  your  cellar  a long  ‘‘good-bye.’’  Now  move  the  things  back 
to  that  end  and  treat  the  other  end  the  same  way ; when  all  is  done,  dust  or 
wash  out  all  boxes,  barrels,  etc.,  andreturn  to  their  places,  which  should  be 
arranged  as  handily  as  possible.  Carry  out  all  trash,  wash  down  the  steps, 
and  you  are  ’•eady  to  leave  the  door  and  windows  open  and  go  to  the 

GARRET. 

Open  the  windows,  gather  up  all  papers  and  place  in  a box ; next,  if  rags 
are  lying  around,  pick  them  up  and  sort  them,  putting  in  sacks  (paper  sacks 
are  best  for  woolen;  if  not  torn,  will  keep  out  moths),  tie  each  sack  with  a 
strip  like  the  rags  it  contains,  clean  up  all  other  trash  and  take  down  to  burn, 
if  of  no  other  account.  Now  sweep  good  overhead,  hang  up  sacks  and  other 
articles,  sweep  floor,  moving  all  boxes,  trunks,  and  bundles,  then  wash  floor 
up  lightly,  just  to  remove  the  dust.  If  you  have  seen  any  signs  of  moths 
they  must  be  attended  to,  as  they  will  be  in  the  cracks  of  the  floor ; it  is  no 
use  to  try  to  get  rid  of  them  down  stairs  while  the  garret  is  kept  for  a breed- 
house.  Benzine  is  sure  death  to  moths,  but  do  not  use  it  if  there  is  fire  in 
the  house  near,  for  it  is  very  dangerous.  If  no  fire,  sprinkle  the  floor  freely 
with  it.  The  odor  will  soon  escape  at  the  open  windows.  Or  take  common 
kerosene  and  wash  the  floor  all  over ; it  “smells  loud,”  but  will  all  be  gone  in 
about  two  days  and  so  will  the  moths.  Now  wash  down  the  steps  (other 
wood-work  and  windows  should  have  been  v/ashed  before  the  floor  was),  and 
you  are  done.  The  time  taken  will  be  in  accordance  with  the  size  of  the 
rooms  and  number  of  things  to  handle.  Now  for  the 

BED-ROOMS. 

If  there  is  a hall,  move  all  the  furniture  out  of  it  from  the  rooms,  and 
put  the  bed  out  to  sun.  (Never  clean  house  except  in  sunny  weather ; if 
cloudy  in  the  morning,  try  to  put  it  ofl*  till  clear  weather.) 

Take  down  all  pictures,  ornaments,  etc. ; clean  them  and  put  tnem  away 
in  the  closets.  Clothes,  carpeting,  and  “trumpery”  stowed  away,  must  be 
thoroughly  dusted  and  aired  in  sunshine  and  wind.  Take  up  carpet,  fold  it 


HOUSEKEEPING. 


9Si 


up  by  lifting  one  side,  carrying  it  over  to  the  otlit/';  laying  it  down  care- 
fully,  thus  preventing  straw  and  dust  getting  on  ^.,he  upper  side.  Carry  it 
out  and  lay  it  on  the  grass  or  hang  it  on  a clothes  line  and  beat  it  on  the 
wi’ong  side  with  canes — taking  care  that  the  canes  have  no  sharp  points. 
Then  spread  the  carpet  out  and  sweep  well  on  the  right  side.  There  is  more 
art  in  sweeping  a carpet  than  a novice  is  apt  to  suppose.  An  old  broom 
should  never  be  used,  and  a new  one  should  fee  kept  especially  for  the  car- 
pets. With  Brussells  and  velvet  carpeting  there  are  two  ways  to  the  pile,  just 
as  in  velvet,  and  they  should  always  be  swept  with  the  pile.  If  a carpet  ia 
swept  against  the  grain,  it  soon  looks  rough  and  scratched  up.  Wash  out  all 
grease  spots  with  a little  gall  soap  and  clean  water,  after  the  dust  is  entirely 
beaten  out.  Take  one  or  two  pails  of  sawdust,  wet  thoroughly  and  scatter 
well  over  the  floor ; a very  little  dust  will  arise  w’hen  you  sweep  it  ofi*,  and  it 
will  not  be  necessary  to  clean  the  floor  before  washing  wood-work  and  win- 
dows.* If  you  can  not  get  sawdust,  use  moist  earth  instead. 

Wash  and  polish  the  windows,  and  if  the  walls  are  hard  finish,  they  may 
be  washed  off  lightly  with  soap-suds,  and  wiped  dry.  Wash  floor  with  hot 
soap-suds,  and  rinse  with  strong,  hot  brine,  or  hot  water  with  a strong  mix- 
ture of  cayenne  pepper  in  it,  to  drive  out  mice,  rats,  and  other  vermin.  Now 
take  some  clean  old  calico  and  put  around  a new  broom  and  rub  down  every 
part  of  the  paper ; if  it  gets  dirty,  get  a clean  one,  and  wash  that  ready  for 
the  next  room.  If  well  rubbed,  will  make  the  paper  look  clean  and  bright. 
If  new  paper  is  needed  or  whitewash  overhead,  it  is  better  to  hire  a man 
who  makes  that  his  daily  work.  The  great  secret  of  good  floor-washing  is 
never  to  do  the  whole  room  with  the  same  water ; change  it  two  or  three 
times  in  a small  room,  and  more  frequently  in  a large  room.  After  washing, 
wipe  with  a flannel,  wringing  it  frequently.  In  washing  wood-work,  do  not 
slop  water  enough  about  to  run  a mill,  for  it  can  be  done  just  as  well  without 
making  any  slop.  Do  not  use  soap  if  the  paint  is  good;  with  rain-water,  a 
soft  rag,  and  a brush  if  there  are  any  fancy  moldings,  give  it  time  to  soah, 
and  you  will  find  all  dirt  comes  off,  leaving  the  paint  looking  like  new.  In 
washing  hard- wood  finish  use  tepid  water  without  soap,  and  wipe  dry  very 
quickly,  rubbing  hard  to  give  a nice  polish.  Glass  should  be  washed,  wiped 
nearly  dry,  and  finish  with  tissue  paper.  (Always  save  the  tissue  paper  for 
that  purpose.)  In  washing  the  floor,  do  not  forget  the  closets.  If  moths  are 
in  them,  use  benzine  on  the  floor ; also  sprinkle  the  room  floor  with  benzine, 
remembering  that  there  must  be  no  fire.  When  floor  is  dry,  blow  cayenne 
pepper  in  crack  and  crevice,  using  a small  pair  of  bellows  for  the  purpose. 

Now  we  are  ready  to  go  to  the  next  room  the  same  way.  Then  return  to 
number  one  and  put  the  carpet  down.  A carpet  wears  better  if  put  down 
well,  and  it  is  better  to  have  it  done  by  experienced  persons  when  the  ex- 
pense can  be  afibrded  and  such  help  can  be  had.  Moth-proof  carpet  lining  is 
best,  but  several  thicknesses  of  newspaper  come  next  as  a carpet  preserver. 
The  printer’s  ink  is  an  exeellent  moth  preventive,  and  the  newspapers  keep 
the  carpet  from  rubbing  on  the  boards.  The  good  old-fashioned  way  of  put- 


932 


HOUSEKEEPING. 


ting  under  good  clean  rye  or  oat  straw  is  again  in  favor,  for  the  reason  that 
dust,  so  destructive  to  them,  will  pass  through  both  carpet  and  straw  to  the 
•floor.  Begin  at  one  corner,  and  nail  down  one  of  the  sides  at  the  cut  ends  of 
the  breadths,  continuing  round  the  selvage  side,  and  stretching  it  evenly  and 
firmly  without  straining  the  fabric.  When  two  sides  are  nailed,  take  next 
the  other  selvage  side.  The  last  side  will  require  the  most  stretching  in 
order  to  get  rid  of  puckers. 

For  stair  carpets,  make  a pad  of  coarse  cotton  cloth,  nearly  as  wide  as 
the  carpet,  and  the  full  length  of  the  stairs ; fill  with  two  or  three  layers  of 
cotton-batting,  sewed  across  to  stay  it  about  nine  inches  between  seams. 
This  is  the  best  because  not  displaced  so  easily  as  paper.  Have  half  a yard 
more  carpeting  than  is  needed  in  order  to  turn  the  carpet  upside  down  and 
change  the  position  of  the  places  where  the  edge  of  the  step  makes  a mark. 
When  the  carpet  is  new,  leave  it  uncovered,  and  put  down  stair  cloth^ after 
it  begins  to  show  wear.  Linen  over-carpet  in  the  summer  is  both  cool  and 
pleasant ; besides  it  helps  to  keep  away  moths.  After  being  swept  and  laid 
down  on  the  floor,  the  carpet  should  be  wiped.  Have  two  pails,  one  of  clean 
soap-suds,  the  other  with  lukewarm  water,  a clean  flannel  cloth,  and  two 
clean,  coarse  towels.  Take  the  carpet  by  breadths,  wring  the  flannel  out 
of  the  lukewarm  water  and  hold  it  so  that  you  can  turn  and  use  it  up  and 
down  three  or  four  times  on  the  same  place.  Rub  both  with  and  against  the 
grain  as  hard  as  if  you  were  scrubbing  the  floor,  then  throw  the  flannel  into 
soap-suds,  and  rub  the  carpet  dry  with  one  of  the  dry  towels.  If  you  leave 
the  carpet  wet,  the  dust  will  stick  to  it  and  it  will  smell  sour  and  musty. 
Wash  the  flannel  clean  in  the  soap-suds,  wring  it  out  of  the  warm  water  and 
proceed  as  before.  If  the  carpet  is  very  dirty  or  has  much  green  in  it,  use 
fresh  ox-gall  in  the  lukewarm  water  in  the  proportion  of  a quart  of  gall  to 
three  quarts  of  water,  and  rub  the  carpet  dry  as  already  directed.  This  rub- 
bing a carpet  raises  the  pile  and  freshens  the  colors.  When  the  carpet  is 
nicely  down  and  swept  the  room  is  ready  for  its  customary  furniture,  unless 
the  more  thorough  renovation  of  kalsomining  and  painting  is  to  follow  the 
cleaning.  Before  replacing,  every  article  should  be  thoroughly  cleaned,  ev- 
ery  button  and  tuft  of  the  upholstered  goods  receiving  its  share  of  attention 
from  the  furniture-brush.  Sofas  and  chairs  should  be  turned  down  and  whip- 
ped then  carefully  brushed,  and  all  dust  wiped  oflf  with  a clean  cloth  slightly 
damped.  Clean  the  pictures  and  hang  them  back.  If  photo  or  engraving, 
and  dust  under  the  glass,  take  them  out  and  rub  with  a clean  cloth.  Clean 
the  glass  by  washing  in  weak  ammonia  water  and  wiping  dry.  If  gilt  frames, 
wash  with  a little  flour  of  sulphur  and  rain-water ; if  rosewood  or  other  dark 
wood  and  varnished,  rub  with  Furniture  Polish  made  as  follows : Alcohol, 
eight  ounces,  linseed  oil  (raw)  eight  ounces,  balsam  fir,  one-half  ounce,  ace- 
tic ether,  one-half  ounce.  Dissolve  the  fir  in  the  alcohol,  then  add  the  others 
and  apply  with  a flannel  cloth,  and  rub  until  dry.  If  oiled  (not  varnished), 
rub  with  a cloth  wrung  out  of  kerosene,  and  they  will  look  like  new.  Go 
over  all  the  furniture  with  the  above  polish  or  oil,  according  as  they  are  oiled 


HOUSE]p;EEPING. 


933 


or  varnished.  If  ever  troubled  with  bed  hugs,  go  over  every  part  with  kerO” 
sene.  Clean  all  the  other  rooms  the  same  way,  leaving  the  hall  until  the 
last.  Wash  the  oil-cloth  with  water  in  which  some  boi’ax  is  dissolved,  and 
wipe  with  a cloth  wrung  out  of  sweet  milk.  Follow  the  above  directions  for 
the  rooms  down  stairs  ; do  not  have  more  than  two  rooms  torn  up  at  once. 
Clean  out  all  moths  as  you  go,  for  they  will  soon  ruin  carpets,  chairs,  sofas, 
etc.,  if  not  killed.  Polish  the  furniture  as  above,  and  do  not  raise  any  dust 
where  it  is  for  a few  days.  Ink  stains  can  be  ^aken  out  with  oxalic  acid. 
Wash  in  cold  water,  then  in  a solution  of  chloride  of  lime,  then  in  water 
again ; if  white  goods,  warm  them  up  in  salted  milk,  let  them  lie  some  time, 
and  then  Tvash  in  water.  In  cleaning  paint,  use  water  in  which  ammonia 
has  been  added,  till  it  feels  slippery,  or  use  fine  whiting — to  be  had  at  the 
paint  or  drug  stores.  Take  a flannel  dipped  in  warm  water,  squeezed  nearly 
dry ; dip  this  in  the  whiting,  and  rub  the  paint  with  it ; then  wash  oflf  with 
warm  water.  For  windows,  use  either  of  the  above,  or  Indexical  soap.  For 
natural  wood,  or  grained  work,  use  clear  water  or  cold  tea  and  wipe  quickly. 

Paint  can  be  taken  off  where  not  wanted,  with  turpentine.  Apply  with 
a sponge,  after  a little  time  it  will  rub  off;  if  cloth,  rub  between  the  hands 
and  it  will  crumble  ofi*.  White  spots  can  be  taken  ofi*  varnished  furniture 
by  rubbing  with  a rag  wet  with  spirits  of  camphor. 

It  should  be  remembered  that  ammonia,  especially  the  stronger  kinds, 
is  dangerous,  a few  drops  being  enough  to  injure  a person.  When  used  for 
cleansing  purposes  it  should  be  handled  with  great  care,  that  the  gas  which 
is  given  ofiT  freely  in  a warm  room,  be  not  breathed  in  large  quantities,  and  do 
injury  to  the  delicate  lining  of  the  nose  and  mouth.  Benzine  is  a liquid,  in 
the  handling  of  which  much  caution  should  be  exercised.  It  is  very  volatile, 
and  its  vapor,  as  well  as  the  liquid  itself,  inflammable.  When  employed  for 
removing  grease,  or  other  stains,  from  clothing,  gloves,  etc.,  it  should  never 
be  used  at  night,  nor  at  any  other  time  near  the  fire.  Alcohol  must  always 
be  used  with  great  care,  especially  at  night. 

When  the  kitchen  is  cleaned,  all  the  bake-pans,  sauce-pans,  tea-kettles, 
etc.,  should  be  plunged  into  a boiler  filled  with  strong  soda  water;  or,  add  to 
clear  hot  water  some  of  the  Washing  Fluid,  which  you  have  already  prepared, 
as  follows  : One  pound  of  sal-soda,  one-half  pound  stone  lime,  five  quarts  soft 
water ; boil  a short  time  in  copper  or  brass  kettle,  stirring  occasionally ; let 
settle,  then  pour  off  the  clear  fluid  into  a stone  jug,  and  cork  for  use.  After 
this,  they  are  really  purified,  even  if  they  are  not  scoured  with  sand,  sapolio, 
or  whatever  burnishing  material  happens  to  be  a favorite  with  the  housewife. 
This  process  of  cleaning  the  pots  and  pans  is  often  performed  by  the  tidy 
housewife,  but  it  is  especially  appropriate  at  the  time  when  the  whole  house 
is  being  purified  of  its  half  year’s  accumulation  of  soiling.  A kitchen  should 
have  a painted  wall  that  can  be  washed  with  a scrub-brush  and  water,  or  it 
should  be  whitewashed  with  lime.  To  clean  the  kitchen,  kettle-closets  and 
pantry,  is  usually  the  greatest  dread  of  the  spring  campaign,  but  it  need  not 
be  if  the  formalities  of  boiling  the  tins  is  going  on  while  the  walls  and  shelves 


934 


HOUSEKEEPING. 


are  being  scrubbed.  Papers  should  be  cut  and  fitted  to  the  clean  shelves. 
Try  to  have  wire  screens  at  all  outside  doors  and  all  windows,  and  the  one 
leading  from  the  kitchen  to  the  dining  room,  also  the  lower  half  of  all  win- 
dow's. Keep  plenty  of  husk  mats  and  foot-scrapers  at  the  doors,  and  learn  to 
stop  and  use  them.  Have  a place  for  every  thing  and  always  put  it  there ; it 
will  save  w'ork.  Do  not  w'ork  so  hard  as  to  make  yourself  sick ; better  be  a 
little  dirty  than  have  a spell  of  sickness.  A kitchen  and  pantry  need  clean 
ing  several  times  in  a year,  being  used  most  and  should  be  kept  cleanest. 

Sinks,  drains,  and  all  places  that  become  sour  or  impure,  should  be 
cleansed  wnth  carbolic  acid  and  water.  This,  or  some  other  good  disinfectant, 
should  be  kept  in  every  house,  and  used  frequently  in  warm  w'eather.  An- 
other good  disinfectant  is  copperas  ; ten  cents’  worth  dissolved  in  water,  will 
deodorize  3mur  sink  and  other  bad  smelling  places  about  the  buildings. 
Probably  there  is  nothing  better  for  the  purpose  than  copperas  ; it  possesses 
no  bad  odor.  Do  not  place  carbolic  powder  boxes,  nor  sprinkle  chloride  of 
lime,  etc.,  where  your  drain  openings  exist,  merely  to  distract  your  nose’s 
attention  from  the  sewer  gas,  which  is  issuing  from  some  leaking  pipe  or 
choked  trap ; by  so  doing  you  but  ignore  nature’s  warning,  that  like  the 
premonitory  smoke  and  rumblings  of  a volcano,  advises  you  of  the  eruption 
of  the  disease  to  come.  While  house-cleaning,  brighten  up  old  furniture  by 
rubbing  well  whith  kerosene  oil ; should  it  be  marred  or  bruised,  use  the 
“Magic  Furniture  Polish.”  Take  bedsteads  to  pieces,  and  saturate 
every  crevice  with  strong  brine ; nothing  is  better  to  purify  and  cleanse,  or 
to  destroy  bed-bugs.  To  clean  mirrors,  take  clean  warm  rain-water,  and 
put  in  just  enough  spirits  ot  ammonia  to  make  it  feel  slippery.  If  very 
dirty,  rinse,  if  not,  wdpe  dry  and  you  will  be  surprised  at  the  effect.  Do 
not  polish  stoves  until  fall  if  you  are  going  to  put  them  away  during  the 
summer,  but  to  keep  them  or  any  iron  utensils  from  rusting,  rub  over  with 
kerosene.  When  polishing,  six  or  eight  drops  of  turpentine  added  to  black- 
ing for  one  stove,  brightens  it  and  makes  it  easier  to  polish.  To  remove  mor- 
tar from  windows,  rub  the  spots  with  hot,  sharp  vinegar ; or,  if  nearly  fresh, 
cold  vinegar  will  loosen  them.  For  paint  spots  rub  with  camphene  and  sand, 
To  remove  spots  from  gray  marble  hearths  rub  with  linseed  oil. 

Fall  house-cleaning  deserves  no  less  attention,  except  that  white-wash- 
ing and  painting  can  best  be  done  in  the  mild  days  of  spring,  when  the 
house  may  be  thrown  open  to  wind  and  sunshine.  The  best  time  for  the  fall 
cleaning  is  in  the  constant  weather  of  October ; and  before  begining,  all  the 
dirty  and  heavy  work  for  the  winter,  such  as  getting  in  coal  and  wood,  should 
be  completed,  and  the  cellar  made  clean  and  sweet. 

PROTECTION  AGAINST  MOTHS. 

During  the  week  before  the  “siege”  of  house-cleaning  in  spring  or  fall, 
look  over  all  garments  and  articles  to  be  put  away,  mend,  remove  all  grease 
spots  if  possible.  An  effective  mode  for  cleansing  is  to  a tablespoon  ammonia 
add  a teacup  boiling  water ; w'hen  cool  enough  saturate  a piece  of  the  goods 


HOUSEKEEPING. 


935 


or  a sponge  with  it  and  rub  the  spot  briskly,  rinse  with  a clean  cloth  and 
fresh  water,  rubbing  as  before.  Shape  the  garment  with  the  hands  so  that 
the  wet  part  will  neither  be  stretched  or  shrunken ; dry  in  the  air  or  by  a 
sunny  window.  If  not  out  repeat  process  being  careful  to  rub  the  goods  with 
the  nap,  then  beat  with  a limber  cane  and  place  on  the  line  in  the  wind  and 
sun  for  a day.  Towards  evening,  before  dampness  finds  its  way  into  them, 
fold  them  up  with  pulverized  camphor,  cut  tobacco  or  cedar  chips,  laid  in 
their  wrinkles ; wrap  them  in  newspaper,  carefully  tie  and  label  them,  and 
they  are  ready  for  the  closet  shelves.  Or,  have  fixed  a trunk,  box,  or  chest 
that  is  thoroughly  cleansed,  and  lay  an  old  sheet,  that  has,  however,  no  holes 
in  it,  in  this  receptacle,  so  that  the  middle  of  the  sheet  is  parallel  with  the 
bottom  of  the  box.  Lay  the  heaviest  garments  at  the  bottom  with  a plentiful 
supply  of  gum  camphor  in  bits  the  size  of  a hickory-nut,  or  cedar  shavings, 
strewn  upon  each  garment ; when  the  box  is  filled  strew  camphor  or  cedar 
shavings  on  top  of  the  last  garment,  and  all  around  the  edges,  and  fold  and 
pin  the  sheet  over  so  that  all  of  the  edges  lap  over  each  other.  Close  the 
box,  and  set  in  closet  in  some  part  of  the  house  which  is  frequented  often 
during  the  warm  weather,  for  the  presence  of  any  animated  object  is  certain 
to  disturb  the  moth.  Always  clear  out  all  closets  and  trunks  early  in  the 
spring  and  brush  inside  with  a sponge  dipped  in  a mixture  of  ammonia  and 
alcohol.  Everything  closets  or  trunks  contain  should  be  shaken  and  aired. 

Sometimes  a heavy  carpet,  in  a room  seldom  used,  is  not  taken  up  at 
house-cleaning  time.  In  this  case  lay  a cloth  along  the  edge  of  the  carpet  and 
pass  slowly  over  it  with  a hot  flat-iron.  This  will  kill  moths  and  their  eggs. 
If  moths  are  discovered  in  a -carpet  at  a time  when  it  is  inconvenient  to  take 
it  up,  they  may  be  killed  in  the  same  way.  A carpet,  particularly  if  turned 
under  at  edges,  should  not  be  left  down  longer  than  one  year,  even  if  not 
much  used. 

All  moths  work  in  the  dark,  hence  clothing,  furs  or  carpets  exposed  to 
the  light  are  not  in  so  much  danger  as  when  put  away  in  the  dark.  The  worms 
are  torpid  and  do  not  work  during  the  cold  of  the  winter.  Early  in  the 
spring  they  change  into  chrysalids,  and  again  in  about  three  weeks  they 
transform  into  winged  moths,  when  they  fly  about  the  house  during  the 
evening  until  May  or  June.  Then  they  lay  their  eggs,  always  in  dark  places, 
and  immediately  after  die.  The  eggs  which  are  to  small  to  be  detected  with 
the  naked  eye,  hatch  out  in  about  two  weeks,  and  the  young  worms  immedi- 
ately proceed  to  work. 

Furs  should  not  be  worn  late  in  the  season.  They  should  be  combed 
carefully  with  a dressing-comb,  beaten  and  aired  (but  not  in  the  hot  sun), 
sprinkled  with  camphor  gum  or  half  and  half  of  black  pepper  and  cut  and  dried 
tobacco  and  wrapped  in  linen,  sewed  up,  and  then  put  in  a paper  bag.  News- 
paper is  not  strong  enough ; brown  wrapping  paper  is  better.  Paper  boxes 
may  be  used,  but  should  be  pasted  securely  so  notliing  can  enter.  Some  add 
a tallow  candle  wrapped  in  paper  or  cloth,  to  the  parcel,  thinking  it  a pre- 
ventive, and  the  wrapping  of  the  bundle  or  box  in  tarred  paper  is  a good 


936 


HOUSEKEEPING. 


thing.  Cedar  chests  will  effectually  keep  out  moths,  hut  few  are  so  fortunate 
as  to  possess  these.  Any  article  of  fur,  which  has  previously  been  troubled 
with  moths,  should  be  opened  and  examined  in  July,  to  make  sure  no  moths 
is  harbored  in  them,  despite  the  precautions  taken.  This  process,  pursued 
resolutely  year  after  year,  will  keep  a house  almost,  if  not  entirely  free , from 
the  moth,  and  save  much  destruction  and  annoyance. 

In  the  country  remote  from  drug-stores,  many  housekeepers  use  the  dried 
leaves  of  sage,  thyme,  spearmint  and  other  highly  scented  herbs.  These 
are  gathered  after  the  housewife  has  laid  in  all  she  may  require  for  cooking 
and  medicinal  purposes,  are  tied  in  bunches  and  dried,  and  then  laid  among 
the  clothes  in  the  large  wooden  chest ; or  a pole  is  laid  from  rafter  to  rafter, 
and  the  clothing  is  hung  over  this,  and  casings  of  calico  or  old  cotton  quilts 
are  carefully  pinned  around  each  garment,  the  bunches  of  herbs  being  also 
pinned  at  intervals  about  the  clothing. 

KALSOMINING. 

If  papering  and  painting,  or  kalsomining  are  to  be  done,  do  the  last  named 
first.  Wash  ceiling  that  has  been  smoked  by  the  kerosene  lamp,  with  a strong 
solution  of  soda.  Fill  all  cracks  in  the  wall  with  a cement  made  of  one  part 
water  to  one  part  silicate  of  potash  mixed  with  common  whiting.  Put  it  in 
with  a limber  case-knife  if  you  have  no  trowel.  In  an  hour,  after  it  has  set, 
scrape  of  the  rough  places,  and  after  kalsomining  no  trace  of  the  crack  will 
appear.  For  the  wash,  take  eight  pounds  whiting  and  one-fourth  pound  white 
glue  ; cover  glue  with  cold  w^ater  over  night,  and  heat  gradually  in  the  morn- 
ing until  dissolved.  Mix  whiting  with  hot  water,  add  the  dissolved  glue  and 
stir  together,  adding  warm  water  until  about  the  consistency  of  thick  cream. 
Use  a kalsomine  brush,  which  is  finer  than  a white-wash  brush,  and  leaves 
the  work  smoother.  Brush  in,  and  finish  as  you  go  along.  If  skim-milk  is 
used  instead  of  water,  the  glue  may  be  omitted. 

PAINTING. 

If  painting  has  been  required,  a patient  endurance  of  a sufiicient  number 
of  drying  days  must  be  given  over  to  this  process.  The  smell  of  the  turpen« 
tine  will  be  very  much  diminished,  and  the  unwholesomeness  of  paint  almost 
destroyed,  by  placing  in  the  apartments,  and  in  the  adjoining  sleeping-rooms, 
several  wash-bowls  or  pails  filled  with  cold  water.  In  the  morning  the  top 
of  the  water  will  exhibit  the  material  which  it  has  absorbed,  and  which  those 
who  were  breathing  the  same  air  would  have  taken  into  their  system.  If  but 
one  coat  of  paint  is  to  be  placed  upon  an  apartment,  all  the  wood  should  be 
carefully  washed  with  strong  sal-soda  water,  and  dried  before  painting  it,  to 
remove  any  oily  or  dingy  spots  that  would  otherwise  soon  show  through  a 
single  layer  of  either  white  or  color. 

Any  woman  of  a mechanical  turn  of  mind  can  paint  a room,  buying  the 
paint  ready  mixed.  While  painting  keep  the  room  well  ventilated  and  eat 
acid  fruits.  When  done,  any  spatters  on  the  glass  may  be  removed  by  the 


HOUSEKEEPING. 


937 


application  of  a mixture  of  equal  parts  of  ammonia  and  turpentine,  washed 
off  with  soap-suds.  To  polish  the  glass,  wash  in  warm  water,  wipe  with  a soft 
cloth,  put  a little  w'hiting  on  the  center  of  the  pane,  and  rub  with  chamois- 
skin  or  a soft  cloth. 

PAPERING. 

In  papering  a hard-finished  wall,  a thin  solution  of  white  glue  should  be 
first  applied  with  a white-wash  brush.  To  make  the  paste,  sift  the  fiour,  add 
one  ounce  pulverized  alum  to  every  pound  of  flour,  mix  it  smoothly  with 
cold  water,  and  pour  over  it  gently  but  quickly  boiling  water,  stirring  mean- 
time constantly.  When  it  swells  and  turns  yellow  it  is  done,  but  it  is  not  to  be 
used  until  coob  and  may  be  kept  for  some  time  without  spoiling.  Or,  for 
paste,  clear  corn-starch  is  sometimes  used,  made  precisely  as  made  for  starch- 
ing clothes.  It  is  well  to  use  a small  quantity  of  carbolic  acid  in  it,  as  a pre- 
caution against  vermin.  A thin  paste  of  wheat,  or  what  is  better,  rye  flour, 
is,  however,  very  good  for  anything  except  the  most  delicate  papers.  The 
wall  should  be  smooth,  and  if  very  smoky  or  greasy  in  spots,  it  should  be 
washed  with  weak  lye  or  soap-suds.  Trim  the  paper  close  to  the  patern  on 
one  side.  A pair  of  long  shears  is  best  for  the  purpose — allowing  the  roll  to 
lie  on  the  floor,  and  rolling  up  again  on  the  lap  as  fast  as  trimmed.  Provide 
a board  wider  than  the  paper,  and  a little  longer  than  a single  breadth  when 
cut.  Cut  all  the  full  breadths  that  will  be  required  for  the  room,  matching 
as  you  cut,  and  saving  remnants  for  door  and  window  spaces.  Begin  at  the 
right  hand  and  work  to  the  left.  The  breadths  may  be  laid  one  on  another 
on  the  board,  the  top  one  pasted  with  a good  brush,  the  top  turned  down, 
bringing  the  two  pasted  sides  together,  a foot  or  two  from  the  other  end. 
Carefully  adjust  the  top  to  its  place,  gently  pressing  it  with  soft  towels,  first 
down  the  middle  of  the  breadth  and  then  to  each  edge.  In  turning  a corner, 
paste  only  that  part  which  belongs  to  one  side,  fasten  it  in  place,  and  then 
paste  and  adjust  the  rest.  The  border  may  be  tacked  on;  No.  4 tacks  will 
not  be  visible  at  the  top  of  a room,  and  it  may  be  removed  when  the  ceiling 
needs  whitening.  In  selecting  paper  avoid  contrasts  in  colors  and  large 
staring  patterns,  as  they  are  out  of  taste  and  tiresome  to  the  eye.  Choose 
rather  neutral  tints  and  colors  that  harmonize  and  blend  agreeably  together, 
and  with  the  general  tone  of  carpets  and  furniture.  Even  with  a bare  floor 
and  plain  wooden  chairs,  the  effect  of  a soft-tinted  paper  gives  a vastly  dif- 
ferent impression  than  if  the  wall  is  disfigured  with  glaring  figures  and  con- 
trasting colors.  If  ceilings  are  low,  heighten  the  appearance  .by  a figure 
which  runs  perpendicularly  through  the  wall-paper ; the  effect  produced  is 
very  deceptive — the  ceiling  appearing  much  higher  than  it  really  is.  Wall- 
paper is  half  a yard  wide,  and  about  eight  yards  to  the  roll,  so  that  it  is  easy 
to  estimate  the  quantity  needed.  It  is  wise  always  to  get  one  extra  roll  for 
repairs.  After  papering  a room  build  no  fire  in  it  until  dry 

HOUSE-CLEANING  DOTS. 

To  Clean  Chromos. — Dampen  a linen  rag  sligntly  and  go  over  them 
gently.  If  the  varnish  has  Ijecume  defaced,  cover  with  a thin  mastic  varnish. 


938 


HOUSEKEEPING. 


To  Remove  Ink  Spots  Frot , IKoors. — Rub  with  sand  wet  in  oil  of  vitrol 
and  water ; when  ink  is  removed  rinse  with  pearl-ash  water. 

Hard  Whitewash. — Ten  cents  worth  of  kalsomine,  five  cents  worth  of 
glue  dissolved  in  warm  water,  two  quarts  of  soft  soap,  and  bluing.  This  wfll 
do  for  halls,  closets,  fences,  etc. 

To  Remove  Grease  From  Wood  Before  Painting. — ^Whitewash  the  spots 
over  night,  and  wash  it  oflP  in  the  morning.  When  dry,  the  paint  will  stick. 
Slaked  lime  laid  on  the  spots  and  wet  a little,  will  do  as  well  as  whitewash. 

To  Wash  TFmdoiys.— Dissolve  a little  washing  soda  in  the  water  and 
wet  the  window  well  with  it ; dry  quickly  with  a soft  towel,  and  polish  with 
chamois  skin  or  newspaper  rubbed  soft  between  the  hands,  or  put  a teaspoon 
kerosene  in  a quart  of  water,  wash  with  that  and  dry  and  polish  as  above. 

Cleaning  Mixture  For  Carpets,  Etc. — Half  bar  Ivory  soap,  and  a 
lump  each  of  saltpeter  and  salsoda  the  size  of  a walnut ; add  two  quarts  of 
boiling  soft  water ; stir  well  and  let  stand  till  cool,  then  add  three  ounces  am* 
monia,  bottle  and  cork  tight.  Will  keep  good  a year.  Some  use  only  three 
pints  water.  This  may  also  be  used  for  bed-bugs,  and  it  is  good  for  cleaning 
paint,  clothes,  etc. 

To  Clean  Looking  (rZasses.— Divide  a newspaper  in  two,  fold  up  one- 
half  in  a small  square,  wet  in  cold  water.  Rub  the  glass  first  with  the  wet 
half  of  the  paper,  and  dry  with  the  other.  Fly-specks  and  all  othor  marks 
will  disappear  as  if  by  magic.  This  is  only  true  of  the  best  quality  of  rag 
paper,  such  as  is  used  by  the  best  weekly  papers.  Paper  which  has  wood  or 
straw  in  it  leaves  a liiity  deposit  on  the  glass. 

To  Clean  Oil-Cloths. — Tike  a pail  of  clean,  soft,  lukewarm  water,  a 
nice  soft  piece  of  flannel,  was  li  the  oil-cloth  and  wipe  very  dry  so  that  no  drop 
of  water  is  left  to  soak  in  ani  rot  the  fabric.  After  washing  and  drying,  if  a 
cloth  is  rung  out  of  a dish  of  skim  milk  and  water,  and  the  oil-cloth  is  rubbed 
over  with  this,  and  then  again  well  dried,  the  freshness  and  luster  of  the  cloth 
will  well  repay  the  extra  labor,  and  before  or  after  putting  down  new  ones, 
put  on  one  or  two  coats  of  linseed-oil  with  a brush,  and  when  thoroughly 
dry,  add  one  or  two  coats  of  varnish.  This  makes  the  cloth  softer  and  much 
more  durable. 

Magic  Furniture  Polish. — Half  pint  alcohol,  half  ounce  each  resin  and 
gum  shellac,*  a few  drops  analine  brown ; let  stand  over  night  and  add  three' 
fourths  pint  raw  linseed  oil  and  half  pint  spirits  turpentine ; shake  well  before 
using.  Apply  with  cotton  flannel,  and  rub  dry  with  another  cloth.  Another 
polish  is  one  and  a half  ounces  each  alcohol  and  butter  of  antimony,  one  half 
ounce  muriatic  acid,  eight  ounces  linseed-oil,  one  half  pint  vinegar.  Mix  cold. 
This  has  been  tried  for  twelve  years  and  has  been  regularly  sold  for  $10. 

Care  of  a Stove. — Where  one  is  cramped  for  room  to  store  heating 
stoves  in  summer,  they  may  be  utilized  very  nicely.  If  a fancy  top,  remove 


HOUSEKEEPING. 


939 


it  and  the  legs  if  pretty  high  and  surround  with  a light  frame,  easily  made, 
with  a solid  top  and  cover  with  drapery,  making  a pretty  stand.  A very 
high  stove  could  be  thus  enclosed  and  placed  in  a corner.  In  a very  hand- 
some residence  we  once  saw  the  steam  radiators  that  look  so  out  of  place  in 
summer,  covered  with  a hoard  shelf  on  top  and  nicely  upholstered  and  fin- 
ished with  a lambrequin,  making  a pretty  and  useful  receptacle  for  books, 
bric-a-brac,  etc. 

Care  of  Oil  Paintings  and  Frames. — Wash  the  picture,  if  soiled,  in 
sweet  milk  and  warm -water,  drying  carefully.  Or,  clean  the  painting  well 
with  a sponge  dipped  in  warm  beer,  and  when  perfectly  dry,  wash  with  a so- 
lution of  the  finest  gum-dragon  dissolved  in  pure  water.  To  retouch  a gilt 
frame  wet  the  rubbed  spot  with  isinglass  dissolved  in  weak  spirits.  When 
about  dry,  lay  on  gold-leaf,  and  when  quite  dry,  polish  with  a very  hard  burn- 
isher ; or  some  wash  with  a strong  solution  of  soda,  rub  with  a fine  paper  and 
then  apply  a coat  of  liquid  gold  paint.  Give  the  gilt  frame  when  new  a coat 
of  white  varnish,  and  all  specks  can  then  be  washed  off  with  water  or  suds 
without  harm. 

To  Paint  Floors. — After  the  house-cleaning  is  through  here  is  a quick 
and  easy  way  of  painting  the  kitchen  floor : Some  bright,  sunshiny  day, 
take  three  quarts  soft  water,  and  three  ounces  glue ; put  over  the  fire  and 
heat  until  glue  is  dissolved.  Then  take  off‘  and  add  three  pounds  yellow 
ochre ; now  take  a brush  (a  new  white-wash  brush  does  very  well),  and  put 
on  a thick  coat  all  over  the  floor.  When  it  is  dry,  which  will  be  soon,  take 
a common  paint  brush  and  boiled  oil,  and  thoroughly  cover  the  floor.  You 
can  walk  on  it  as  soon  as  the  flrst  coat  is  dry.  If  any  would  like  the  floor 
very  light,  instead  of  using  all  ocher,  nse  two  pounds  of  pulverized  dry  white 
lead  and  one  pound  ocher ; also  use  white  glue  in  place  of  common  kind. 

To  Remove  Ink  From  Fine  Woods, — Ink  staines  on  mahogany,  rose- 
wood or  black  walnut  furniture  may  be  removed  by  touching  the  stain  with 
a feather  wet  in  a spoonful  of  water  in  which  six  or  eight  drops  of  nitre  have 
been  mixed.  As  soon  as  the  ink  disappears,  rub  the  place  immediately  with 
a cloth  w'et  in  cold  water,  or  the  nitre  will  leave  a white  stain.  If  the  ink 
stain  then  remains,  make  the  solution  of  nitre  stronger,  and  repeat.  Ink 
stains  on  paper  may  be  removed  by  a solution  made  as  follows : Dissolve  a 
a half  pound  chloride  of  lime  in  two  quarts  of  soft  water;  let  stand  twenty- 
four  hours  and  strain  through  a clean  cotton  cloth ; add  to  an  ounce  of  the 
lime  water  a teaspoon  of  acetic  acid,  apply  to  the  blot  and  the  ink  will  dis- 
appear. Dry  with  blotting  paper.  Bottle  the  remainder  of  the  lime-water 
closely,  and  keep  for  future  use. 

The  Care  of  Marble. — Never  wash  the  marble  tops  of  wash-stands, 
bureaus,  etc.,  with  soap.  Use  clean  warm  water  (if  very  much  soiled  add  a 
little  ammonia)  and  a soft  cloth,  drying  immediately  with  a soft  towel.  Or 
after  brushing  off  the  dust,  coat  with  thick  mucilage  and  let  dry  in  wind  or 


940 


HOUSEKEEPING. 


sun ; it  will  peel  off  and  thus  remove  dirt.  There  is  nothing  that  will  entirely 
remove  grease  spots  from  marble,  hence  the  necessity  of  avoiding  them.  A 
paste  of  crude  potash,  or  baking  soda  can  be  used,  and  whiting  placed  on 
the  spot  and  left  on  a short  time  will  remove  them  partly.  To  clean  marble 
or  marbelized  slate  mantels,  use  a soft  sponge  or  chamois-skin,  dampened  in 
clean  warm  water  without  soap,  then  polish  with  dry  chamois-skin.  In  dust- 
ing, use  a feather  duster,  and  never  a cloth,  as  it  is  likely  to  scratch  the  pol- 
ished surface.  To  clean  off  smoke,  wet  a piece  of  flannel  in  strong  ammonia 
and  rub  the  marble  quickly  with  it,  and  then  wash  off  with  hot  soap-suds  ; or 
make  a paste  of  chloride  of  lime  and  water  and  brush  over  the  whole  surface 
that  is  smoky.  Let  it  stand  a minute,  then  wash  with  hot  suds. 

To  Clean  Waste  Pipes.-— A.  simple,  inexpensive  method  of  clearing  the 
pipe  is  as  follows : Just  before  retiring  at  night  pour  into  the  pipe  enough 
liquid  potash  lye  of  36°  strength  to  fill  the  “trap,”  as  it  is  called,  or  bent  por- 
tion of  the  pipe  just  below  the  outlet.  About  a pint  will  suffice  for  a w’ash- 
Staiid,  or  a quart  for  a bath-tub  or  kitchen  sink.  Be  sure  that  no  water  runs 
into  it  till  next  morning.  During  the  night  the  lye  will  convert  all  of  the 
offal  in  the  pipe  into  soft  soap,  and  the  first  current  of  water  in  the  morning 
will  remove  it  entirely,  and  leave  the  pipe  as  clean  as  new.  The  so-called 
potash  lye  sold  in  small  tin  cans  in  the  shops  is  not  recommended  for  this 
purpose  ; it  is  quite  commonly  misnamed,  and  is  called  caustic  soda,  which 
makes  a hard  soap.  The  lye  should  be  kept  in  heavy  glass  bottles  or  demi- 
johns, covered  with  wicker  work,  and  plainly  labeled,  always  under  lock 
when  not  in  actual  use.  It  does  not  act  upon  metals  and  so  does  not  corrode 
the  pipes  as  do  strong  acids.  As  the  “ounce  of  prevention”  it  is  well  once  a 
month  to  pour  down  all  the  pipes  a strong  solution  of  sal-soda  and  water,  a 
pound  or  two  to  a gallon  of  water.  Have  a regular  day,  say  the  first  Monday 
of  each  month  and  then  it  will  not  be  forgotten. 

To  Clean  a,  Papered  Wall. — Cut  into  eight  pieces  a large  loaf  of  bread 
(made  without  any  lard  or  butter),  two  days  old,  blow  dust  off  wall  with  a 
bellows,  rub  down  with  a piece  of  the  bread,  in  half  yard  strokes,  begining 
at  the  top  of  the  room,  until  upper  part  is  cleaned,  then  go  round  again  re- 
peating until  all  has  been  gone  over.  Or,  better,  take  about  two  quarts  of 
wheat  bran,  tie  it  in  a bundle  of  coarse  flannel,  and  rub  it  over  the  paper.  It 
will  clean  the  paper  nicely.  If  done  carefully,  so  that  every  spot  is  touched, 
the  paper  will  look  almost  like  new.  Dry  corn  meal  may  be  used  instead  of 
bread,  applying-  it  with  a cloth.  If  grease  spots  appear,  put  blotting  paper 
over  spots  and  press  with  a hot  flat  iron  ; or  a more  thorough  way  is  to  mix 
powdered  fuller’s  earth  with  ox  gall  and  cold  water,  and  spread  it  upon  the 
spot,  let  it  dry  on,  pinning  or  in  some  way  affixing  to  it  a sheet  of  blotting 
paper.  It  had  better  be  left  for  a few  hours,  or  overnight,  then  brush  the 
powder  off  very  carefully  and  no  doubt  the  grease  will  have  disappeared,  if 
not,  repeat  the  process.  This  is  almost  sure  to  be  successful  if  the  paper  is 
a good  one ; a*  flimsy  cheap  one  cannot  be  so  depended  upon.  Do  not  rub  it 


HOUSEKEEPING. 


941 


on,  but  spread  on  carefully.  Some  omit  the  beef’s  gall.  In  brushing  down 
a wall  to  simply  free  from  dust  a woolen  cloth  is  best  to  cover  over  the  broom, 
f you  do  not  use  a long  handled  feather  duster. 

To  Exterminate  Bedbugs. — In  March  scald  with  boiling  water  every 
cracTc  or  suspected  place  where  they  find  refuge,  and  then  touch  thoroughly 
every  crack  and  seam  where  the  bugs  are  likely  to  harbor,  with  kerosene. 
Great  care  must  be  taken  not  to  injure  fine  varnished  furniture.  If  any  in- 
jury is  done  to  varnish  by  the  hot  water,  it  may  be  restored  by  rubbing  im- 
mediately wdth  a rag  wet  in  turpentine  or  oil.  Beds  should  be  examined 
again  for  vermin  in  July  and  August,  and  if  measures  are  taken  to  extermin- 
ate them,  there  will  be  but  very  little  trouble.  Another  death-dealing  method 
is  after  the  spring  house-cleaning  to  saturate  salt  with  water  till  wet  enough 
to  stick,  and  place  it  in  the  opening  for  slats  and  in  any  other  place,  and  then 
with  a feather  apply  kerosene  around  crevice  of  bed  and  dip  the  end  of  slats 
in  a saucer  of  coal  oil.  Paris  green  and  mercurial  ointment  are  deadly  pois- 
ons to  the  bedbug,  but  as  they  are  dangerous  to  have  in  the  house,  the  first- 
named  methods  are  preferable.  One  part  quicksilver  to  twenty  parts  white 
of  an  egg,  applied  with  a feather  to  every  crack  and  crevice  in  bedstead  and 
room,  will  kill  them.  Another  deadly  poison  is  used  as  follows : Dissolve 
corrosive  sublimate  in  turpentine,  take  beds  apart  first  of  April,  wash  thor- 
oughly in  warm  water,  then  in  all  cracks  or  corners  where  bugs  are  likely 
to  frequent  saturate  with  the  corrosive  sublimate ; follow  this  treatment 
every  month  until  cold  weather.  Others  use  dififerent  insect  powders  to  ad- 
vantage, but  the  safest  way  is  to  examine  in  March  and  by  having  a special 
day,  say  the  17th,  it  will  not  be  forgotten;  then  follow  up  at  house-cleaning 
time  with  the  application  of  salt  and  kerosene  as  above.  This  all  wants  to 
be  done  whether  you  have  bugs  or  not,  and  then  you  never  will  have  them. 

To  Re-finish  Furniture.— OnQ  of  the  most  convenient  articles  the 
housekeeper  can  have  on  hand  during  the  spring  house  cleaning  and  renova- 
tion, is  a small  can  of  hard  oil  finish.  This  makes  a beautiful,  bright  finish 
over  varnish,  but  w'hen  applied  upon  the  wax  finish  just  mentioned  its  most 
valuable  qualities  are  seen.  When  the  battered  and  scarred  furniture  is  un- 
covered after  the  carpets  are  up,  the  housekeeper  should  begin  the  raid  with 
fine  sand-paper  and  a scraper  of  some  kind.  A putty  knife  is  a good  thing, 
but  a case  knife  or,  in  careful  hands,  even  a piece  of  glass  will  answer  the 
purpose.  Wherever  there  is  a scratch  that  has  made  the  wood  rough,  scrape 
or  sand-paper  a smooth  surface ; take  off  all  roughness,  and  if  the  chair  or 
piece  of  furniture  is  pretty  well  battered,  attack  freely.  On  that  which  is 
new  and  in  fair  condition  use  only  a sharp  knife  and  be  careful  not  to  en- 
large the  imperfections.  The  object  is  to  smooth  down  any  little  abrasions. 
This  being  done  the  use  of  a hard  oil  finish  begins.  A varnish  brush  of  good 
quality  an  inch  and  a half  wide  is  needed,  and  also  a soft  brush,  say  a red 
sable,  such  as  artists  use  for  oil  painting ; the  latter  need  not  be  as  thick  as  a 
lead  pencil.  The  “finish”  if  fresh,  is  ready  for  use.  If  old  it  must  be  thin- 
ned with  turpentine  a day  or  two  before  it  is  used,  and  after  several  stirrings 
allowed  to  stand  till  thoroughly  mixed  and  uniform.  The  furniture  in  good 
condition  needs  only  to  be  touched  upon  the  cracks  and  scratches  with  the 
small  brush.  Certain  kinds  of  blemishes  may  be  covered  by  taking  a little 
of  the  finish  on  a cloth,  over  the  thumb,  and  rubbing  them  out,  and  it  is  not 
a bad  plan  to  do  this  from  time  to  time  during  the  year.  If  a panel  or  other 
member  must  have  a coat,  put  the  finish  on  over  the  whole  surface  with  a 
light  touch  of  the  brush  to  smooth  it  down.  When  done  let  it  alone.  Do 
what  is  to  be  done  quickly.  The  older  pieces  and  those  most  badly  used 
may  have  a complete  coat.  If  a chair  or  piece  with  openings  is  to  be  reno- 
vated, cover  the  edges  first,  doing  it  quickly ; get  on  enough  of  the  finish,  but 


942 


HOUSEKEEPING. 


not  too  much  or  there  will  be  mortification  of  seeing  it  run  down.  When  a 
panel,  back  leg  or  arm  has  been  begun,  finish,  before  touching  any  other 
part.  Let  the  brush  sweep  from  end  to  end  of  each  section  at  a single  stroke. 
Do  the  work  in  a room  free  from  dust,  and  when  finished  shut  the  room  up 
until  the  varnished  surface  is  hard  and  dry.  Drying  depends  on  the  weather 
and  temperature,  but  it  should  be  continued  until  the  varnish  or  finish  is  so 
hard  as  not  to  feel  sticky  even  when  hand  has  been  pressed  on  it  a minute. 

To  Remove  Grease  Spots  from  Carpets.— -We  give  below  many  ways  of 
removing  grease  when  cleansing  an  entire  carpet  after  it  has  been  taken  up, 
or  for  spots  when  it  is  on  the  floor.  Mix  a beef  gall  well  in  a pail  of  hot 
water ; take  out  some  in  a pan  and  with  a clean  piece  of  flannel  rub  the  spot 
vigorously ; if  of  long  standing  a small  brush  will  be  found  necessary.  When 
clean  wash  with  some  warm  soap-suds  and  then  with  clear,  waim  water. 
The  entire  carpet  may  then  be  scrubbed  with  warm  soap-suds,  putting  no 
soap  on  the  carpet,  then  wash  off  with  clear,  warm  water,  once  or  twice,  till 
it  looks  clean  and  bright.  The  washing  is  best  done  on  a clean  grass  plot, 
or,  on  a clean  floor  in  laundry  or  barn ; then,  if  possible,  hang  on  a strong 
rope  or  any  place  to  dry,  A brussels,  ingrain  or  rag  carpet  may  be  treated 
thus,  or  the  two  latter  may  be  washed  on  a wash-board,  or  pounded  in  a barrel. 

A brussels  carpet  may  also  be  treated  in  the  following  manner  when  not 
taken  up ; after  it  has  been  swept,  sprinkle  with  a liberal  supply  of  salt,  and 
after  an  hour  or  so,  sweep  off  with  a new  broom.  Then  in  a basin  of  hot 
water  put  a teaspoon  of  ammonia,  and  with  some  flne  soap  and  clean  white 
flannel  cloths  go  over  all  the  soiled  spots  and  stains,  then  washing  them  with 
the  suds,  being  careful  not  to  be  too  lavish  in  the  expenditure  of  water ; then 
with  clean  hot  water  and  clean  flannel  cloths,  rinse  the  spots.  The  next  day, 
after  the  spots  have  become  quite  dry,  it  will  look  as  clean  as  new.  If  it  is 
a very  old  carpet  and  much  faded  mix  some  of  the  Diamond  dyes,  and  with 
a camel’s  hair  brush  touch  up  and  tone  up  all  the  faded  flowers  and  leaves, 
using  the  same  colors  as  they  were  when  new ; for  instance,  if  the  blue  had 
faded  to  a dirty  slate  color  touch  up  with  blue,  and  so  on  till  the  entire  car- 
pet is  thus  brightened  and  the  result  will  fully  repay  the  labor.  A spot  or 
two  of  grease  may  easily  be  taken  out  by  covering  it  thickly  with  flour,  some 
prefer  buckwheat,  pinning  over  a paper  and  leaving  it  on  a few  days  or  even 
a week,  then  brushing  off,  and  if  not  entirely  eradicated  dust  again.  For 
Removing  Ink  Stains,  there  is  nothing  better  than  milk,  new  being  better.  If 
done  directly  it  will  of  course  be  best,  but  stains  of  a long  standing,  if  per- 
severed with,  will  after  awhile  be  got  out.  Well  drench  the  ink  stain  with 
milk,  and  when  thoroughly  darkened  with  the  ink,  wipe  up  and  repeat  the 
operation.  This  will  do  for  very  delicate  carpets  as  well  as  for  others,  Some- 
times it  is  necessary  to  rub  quite  hard.  Here  are  some  additional  hints  in 
regard  to  carpets  which  may  be  of  help  to  some.  To  Mend  or  Piece  Out 
Brussels  Carpet,  cut  the  edges  to  match  with  a sharp  knife  or  strong  shears ; 
turn  the  right  sides  together  and  overcast  with  linen  thread ; then  smooth 
out  the  seam  little  by  little  in  the  hand,  going  over  it  on  the  wrong  side  with 
a deep  “ over-and-under  ” stitch,  closely  placed,  and  drawing  the  thread  veiy 
tight  in  and  out  through  the  canvass  weaving  on  the  under  side.  Piecing 
done  in  this  manner  is  scarcely  discernible.  We  have  seen  handsome  rugs 
and  chair  covers  made  in  this  way  for  upholstering  renovated  furniture. 

In  putting  down  carpets  some  advise  v/hen  newspapers  are  used  to  put  a 
dozen  layers,  as  it  both  keeps  out  cold  and  makes  a soft  footing.  The  use  of 
straw  allows  the  dirt  to  pass  through  to  the  floor  and  thus  avoids  the  raising 
of  so  much  dust  when  sweeping.  Where  straw  is  objected  to,  cheap  straw 
matting  may  be  used  as  the  dust  sifts  through  that.  This  is  especially  good 
in  localities  troubled  with  a great  deal  of  dust  during  rainless  seasons. 


HOUSEKEEPING. 


943 


After  taking  up  a carpet  an  easy  way  to  remove  the  dust  from  the  floor  is 
to  dampen  clean  saw  dust  with  water  and  sprinkle  on  the  floor,  then  sweep 
with  a broom ; or  newspapers  torn  in  fine  bits  and  dampened  may  be  used 
in  same  way.  After  a carpet  is  cleaned,  ready  for  laying,  it  is  nice  to  sprinkle 
with  salt  and  let  stand  an  hour  or  so,  then  sweep  off.  Some  also  use  camphor 
gum  in  same  way  when  a carpet  is  first  taken  out  doors,  thinking  it  is  good  to 
kill  the  moths  if  any,  but  it  is  rather  an  expensive  method.  Ordinany  stains 
are  said  to  be  restored  to  their  original  color  by  the  use  of  benzine. 

GENERAL  SUGGESTIONS. 

On  Monday,  wash ; Tuesday,  iron ; Wednesday,  bake  and  scrub  kitchen 
and  pantry ; Thursday,  clean  the  silver-ware,  examinine  the  pots  and  kettles, 
and  look  after  the  store-room  and  cellar ; Friday,  devote  to  general  sweeping 
and  dusting ; SaturOay,  bake  and  scrub  kitchen  and  pantry  floors,  and  prepare 
for  Sundays.  When  the  clothes  are  folded  off  the  frame  after  ironing  examine 
each  piece  to  see  that  none  are  laid  away  that  need  a button  or  a stitch.  Clean 
all  the  silver  on  the  last  Friday  of  each  month,  and  go  through  each  room 
and  closet  to  see  if  things  are  kept  in  order  and  nothing  going  to  wastOc 
Have  the  sitting-room  tidied  up  every  night  before  retiring.  Make  the  most 
of  your  brain  and  your  eyes,  and  letno  one  dare  tell  you  that  you  are  devoting 
yourseli  to  a low  sphere  of  action.  Keep  cool  and  self-possessed.  Work 
done  quietly  about  the  house  seems  easier.  The  slamming  of  oven  doors,  and 
the  rattle  and  clatter  of  dishes,  tire  and  bewilder  every  body  about  the  house. 
'Jhose  who  accomplish  most  in  housekeeping — and  the  same  is  true  of  every 
other  walk  in  life — are  the  quiet  workers. 

To  Prevent  Hinges  Creaking. — Eub  with  a feather  dipped  in  oil. 

Rainy  Days. — Make  the  house  as  bright  and  sunshiny  as  possible. 

To  Drive  off  Fleas. — Sprinkle  about  bed  a few  drops  of  oil  of  lavender. 

Soap. — It  is  a great  saving  to  have  bars  of  soap  dry.  It  should  be  bought 
6y  the  quantity. 

Red  Ants. — A small  bag  of  sulphur  kept  in  a drawer  or  cupboard  will 
drive  away  red  ants, 

To  Prevent  Pails  from  Shrinking. — Saturate  pails  and  tubs  with  glycerine, 
and  they  will  not  shrink. 

To  Destroy  Cockroaches,  etc. — Sprinkle  the  floor  with  hellebore  at  night. 
They  eat  it  and  are  poisoned. 

To  Keep  Flies  off  Gilt  Frames. — Boil  three  or  four  onions  in  in  a pint  of 
water  and  apply  with  a soft  brush. 

To  Remove  Old  Putty  from  Window-Frames. — ^Pass  a red-hot  poker  slowly 
over  it,  and  it  will  come  off  easily. 

To  Soften  Hard  Water. — Hard  water  becomes  nearly  soft  by  boiling.  A 
piece  of  chalk  will  soften  hard  spring- water. 

Icy  Windows. — Windows  may  be  kept  free  from  ice  and  polished  by  rub- 
bing the  glass  with  a sponge  dipped  in  alcohol. 

Lost  Children. — Label  children’s  hats  with  the  name  and  place  of  resi 
dence  so  that,  if  lost,  they  may  be  easily  restored. 


944 


HOUSEKEEPING. 


Provide  on  Saturday  for  Monday,  so  as  not  to  take  up  the  fire  with  cook- 
ing, or  time  in  rUiining  errands  on  washing-day. 

Coal  Ashes  make  excellent  garden  walks.  They  become  very  hard  by  use 
and  no  weeds  or  grasss  will  grow  through  them. 

To  Soften  Cistern-  Water. — Cistern-water  that  has  become  hard  from  long 
standing,  can  be  softened  by  adding  a little  borax. 

To  Destroy  the  Smell  of  Fresh  Paint. — Sprinkle  hay  with  water  in  which 
chloride  of  lime  has  been  mixed,  and  place  on  floor. 

Parcels. — When  parcels  are  brought  to  the  house,  fold  paper  and  put  away 
in  drawer,  and  roll  the  string  on  a ball  kept  for  the  purpose. 

Ants  and  Insets. — Dissolve  two  pounds  alum  in  three  quarts  water.  Ap- 
ply with  a brush  while  hot  to  every  crevice  where  vermin  harbor. 

Silver-ware  when  set  away,  keeps  best  wrapped  in  blue  tissue  paper ; or 
when  put  in  a tight  cupboard  place  a piece  of  camphor  gum  with  it. 

Cement  for  China.— To  a thick  solution  of  gum  arabic  add  enough  plaster 
of  paris  to  form  a sticky  paste ; apply  with  a brush,  and  stick  edges  together. 

Sheets. — When  sheets  are  beginning  to  wear  in  the  middle,  sew  the  salvage 
sides  together  and  rip  open  the  old  seam,  or  tear  in  two  and  hem  the  sides. 

To  Make  Artificial  Coral.— Molt  together  four  parts  yellow  resin  and  one 
part  vermilion.  Dip  twigs,  cinders,  or  stones  in  this,  and  when  dry  they  will 
look  like  coral. 

To  Sew  Carpet-rags  on  a Machine. — ^Make  the  stitch  short,  run  it  obliquely 
across  the  rags  where  they  are  to  be  joined,  and  sew  a good  many  before  cut- 
ting the  thread. 

Mending. — Never  put  away  clean  clothes  without  examining  every  piece 
to  see  if  they  are  in  any  way  out  of  order.  Stockings,  particularly,  should  be 
carefully  darned. 

To  Destroy  Weeds  in  Walks — Boil  ten  pounds  stone-lime,  five  gallons  water 
and  one  pound  flour  of  sulphur,  let  settle,  pour  off  clean  part,  and  sprinkle 
freely  on  the  weedy  walks. 

To  Cleanse  a Sponge.— By  rubbing  a fresh  lemon  thoroughly  into  a soured 
sponge  and  rinsing  it  several  times  in  lukewarm  water,  it  will  become  as 
sweet  as  when  new. 

A Rustic  Frame.— K neat  rustic  frame  for  pictures  may  be  made  of  cat-tail 
rods.  Hide  the  corners  where  they  are  joined  with  ivy,  or  a vine  made  of 
leather  leaves  or  handsome  autumn  leaves  and  the  berries  of  bitter-sweet. 

To  Mend  Tin. — Scrape  the  tin  about  the  hole  free  from  greese  and  rust, 
rub  on  a piece  of  resin  until  a powder  lies  about  the  hole,  over  it  lay  a piece 
of  solder,  and  hold  on  it  a hot  poker  or  soldering  iron  until  it  melts. 

Bad  Smells. — ^Articles  of  clothing,  or  of  any  other  character,  which  have 
become  impregnated  with  bad-smelling  substances,  will  be  freed  from  them 
by  burying  for  a day  or  two  in  the  ground.  Wrap  up  lightly  before  burying. 

To  Temper  Lamp  Chimneys — Lamp  chimneys  and  glass-ware  for  hot  water 
are  made  less  liable  to  brake  by  putting  in  cold  water,  bringing  slowly  to 
boiling  point,  boiling  for  an  hour,  and  allowing  to  cool  before  removing  nrom 
water.  , 


HOUSEKEEPING. 


945 


To  Restore  White  Spots. — Oil,  lard,  or  butter,  rubbed  on  white  spots  on  a 
dining  table,  caused  by  hot  dishes  or  fiat  irons,  will  bring  back  their  original 
color.  This  is  sometimes  good  for  spots  on  varnished  articles  whitened  by 
dampness. 

To  Hang  Pictures. — The  cheapest  and  best  material  with  which  to  hang 
pictures  is  copper  wire,  of  a size  proportioned  to  the  weight  of  the  picture. 
When  hung,  the  wire  is  scarcely  visible,  and  its  strength  and  durability  is 
wonderful. 

Care  of  Slate  Hearth. — These  are  preferable  to  marble,  as  they  are  not  so 
easily  soiled.  To  wash  them,  use  a clean  cloth  and  warm  water.  Many  oil 
them  thoroughly  when  new  with  linseed  oil ; thus  prepared  they  never  show 
grease  spots. 

To  Clean  Hearths . — Soapstone  or  sandstone  hearths  are  cleaned  by  wash- 
ing in  pure  water,  then  sprinkling  with  powdered  marble  or  soapstone,  and 
rubbing  with  a piece  of  the  stone  as  large  as  a brick,  and  having  at  least  one 
flat  surface. 

Lightning  Cream  for  Paint  on  Clothes. — Four  ounces  white  castile  soap,  four 
of  ammonia,  two  of  ether,  two  of  alcohol,  one  of  glycerine ; cut  the  soap  fine, 
dissolve  in  one  quart  of  soft  water  over  the  fire,  and  when  dissolved  add  the 
other  ingredients. 

Lamp-wichs — To  insure  a good  light,  wicks  must  be  changed  often,  as  they 
soon  become  clogged,  and  do  not  permit  the  free  passage  of  the  oil.  Soaking 
wicks  in  vinegkr  t’wenty-four  hours  before  placing  in  lamp  insures  a clear 
flame.  Felt  wicks  are  best. 

A Cheap  Carpet. — Make  a cover  for  the  floor  of  the  cheapest  cotton  cloth. 
Tack  it  down  like  a carpet,  paper  it  as  you  would  a wall  with  paper  resem- 
bling a carpet  in  figures,  let  it  dry,  varnish  with  two  coats  of  varnish,  and  with 
reasonable  usage  it  will  last  two  years. 

To  Make  Rag  Rugs. — Cut  rags  and  sew  hit  and  miss,  or  fancy  striped  as 
you  choose ; use  wooden  needles,  round,  smooth,  and  pointed  at  one  end,  of 
any  convenient  length.  The  knitting  is  done  back  and  forth  (like  old  fashion- 
ed suspenders),  always  take  ofif  the  first  stitch. 

Mending  Plaster  of  Paris. — Gum  shellac  makes  an  excellent  strong  cement 
for  joining  broken  pieces  together,  and  is  more  convenient  than  glue.  The 
shellac  should  be  flowed  upon  the  surfaces  to  be  joined,  firmly  pressed  to- 
gether, and  carefully  set  away  for  about  an  hour. 

To  Keep  Ice  Water. — Make  a hat-shaped  cover  of  two  thicknesses  of  strong 
brown  paper  with  cotton-batting  quilted  between,  large  enough  to  drop  over 
and  completely  envelop  the  pitcher.  This  prevents  the  warm  air  from  com- 
ing in  contact  with  the  pitcher,  and  the  ice  will  last  a long  time. 

To  Sweep  a Rag  Carpet. — Set  a pail  of  water  outside  the  door  and  dip  the 
broom  in  it,  shaking  the  water  oflf,  so  there  will  be  no  wet  streaks  on  the  car- 
pet ; sweep  but  a small  portion,  and  then  dip  the  broom  again ; in  this  way  the 
dust  is  taken  up  in  the  broom,  instead  of  being  sent  whirling  through  the  air. 

Cement  for  Attaching  Metal  to  Glass. — Mix  two  ounces  of  a thick  solution 
of  glue  with  one  ounce  of  linseed  oil  varnish,  and  half  an  ounce  of  pure  spirits 
of  turpentime ; boil  the  whole  together  in  a close  vessel.  After  it  has  been 
applied  to  the  glass  and  metal,  clamp  together  for  two  or  three  days  until  dry 

To  Imitate  Old  Oak. — To  make  oak  paneling  look  like  old  oak,  put  some 
common  soda  into  hot  water,  let  the  solution  be  very  strong  and  sponge  the 
60 


946 


HOUSEKEEPING. 


oak  over  two  or  three  times  with  it.  When  it  is  quite  dry  rub  with  fine  sand 
paper,  as  the  soda  raises  the  grain  of  the  wood,  and  finish  off  with  the  best 
linseed  oil. 

To  Take  Out  Rusted  Screws  from  Woodwork. — Apply  heat  to  the  head  of 
screw.  A small  bar  or  rod  of  iron,  flat  at  the  end,  if  reddened  in  the  fire  and 
applied  for  a couple  or  three  minutes  to  the  head  of  the  rusted  screw,  renders 
its  withdrawal  as  easy  by  the  screw  driver  as  if  it  was  only  a recently  insert- 
ed screw. 

To  Paste  Paper  on  Tin. — Make  a thin  paste  of  gum-tragacanth  and  water, 
to  which  add  a few  drops  of  oil  of  vitriol.  Mix  a pound  each  of  transparent 
glue  and  very  strong  vinegar,  one  quart  alcohol,  a small  quantity  of  alum,  and 
dissolve  by  means  of  a water  bath.  This  is  useful  for  uniting  horn,  pearl, 
shell  and  bone . 

Cane  Chair  Bottoms. — To  clean  and  restore  the  elasticity  of  cane  chair- 
bottoms,  turn  the  chair  bottom  upward,  and  with  hot  water  and  a sponge  wash 
the  cane  work  well,  so  that  it  is  well  soaked ; should  it  be  dirty  use  soap,  let 
it  dry  well  in  the  air,  and  it  will  be  tight  and  firm  as  new,  provided  none  of 
the  canes  are  broken. 

To  Paint  Houses. — Have  them  painted  in  the  fall ; October  or  November 
is  the  best  time  for  it.  The  wood  does  not  absorb  the  oil  so  readily,  and  dur- 
ing the  winter  it  hardens  and  forms  a compact  coating.  When  put  on  during 
the  spring  or  summer  the  wood  takes  up  the  oil  and  leaves  the  paint  dry  and 
it  will  soon  crumble  and  wash  ofi". 

To  Start  a Fire  in  Damp,  Still  Weather. — Light  a few  bits  of  shavings  or 
paper  placed  upon  the  top  of  the  grate ; thus  by  the  heated  air’s  forcing  itself 
into  the  chimney  and  establishing  there  an  upward  current,  the  room  is  kept 
free  from  the  gas  and  smoke  which  is  so  apt  to  fill  it,  and  the  fire  can  then  be 
lighted  from  below  with  good  success. 

To  Clear  Cistern  Water. — Add  two  ounces  powdered  alum  and  two  ounces 
borax  to  a twenty  barrel  cistern  of  rain-water  that  is  blackened  or  oily,  and 
in  a few  hours  the  sediment  will  settle,  and  the  water  be  clarified  and  fit  for 
washing  and  even  for  cooking  purposes,  or  to  clear  a small  quantity  use  a 
teaspoon  powdered  alum  to  four  gallons  water. 

A Good  Cement,  for  stopping  holes  in  castings,  covering  screws  or  mend- 
ing broken  pottery  is  made  by  taking  equal  parts  of  gum  arabic,  plaster  of 
paris  and  iron  filings,  with  a little  pulverized  glass.  This  mixture  forms  a 
very  hard  cement  that  will  resist  the  action  of  fire  and  water.  It  should  be 
kept  dry  and  soffened  with  a little  water  when  used. 

Dust  from  Carpets. — A good  way  to  remove  dust  from  a carpet  is  to  fasten 
a damp  cloth  over  the  broom  ; with  this  the  dust  may  be  literally  taken  up. 
This  will  be  found  useful  in  the  sick  room,  and  also  in  any  room  where  there 
are  many  small  articles  to  catch  dust.  It  brightens  a carpet  to  wipe  it  off  in 
this  way  even  after  the  usual  sweeping  has  been  done. 

Putting  Away  Clothes —BeiorQ  putting  away  summer  or  winter  clothes, 
mend,  clean,  brush,  shake  well,  fold  smoothly,  sprinkle  gum-camphor  on 
every  fold,  and  on  the  botton  of  trunks  or  closets  (unless  cedar  chests  are 
used).  Fine  dresses,  cloaks,  etc.,  should  be  wrapped  in  towels  or  sheets  by 
themselves,  and  placed  in  a tray  or  a separate  apartment  of  the  trunk. 

How  to  Wash  Chamois  Leather a good,  tepid  suds  with  hard  or 
soft  soap,  put  in  leather,  rub  it  on  the  wash-board,  put  soap  on  skin  and  rub 
again  on  board,  and  wash  in  this  way  through  one  or  two  suds,  or  until  per- 


HOUSEKEEPING. 


947 


fectly  clean ; rinse  in  tepid  water  without  bluing,  squeeze  dry  (do  not  wring), 
hang  in  sun  and  keep  snapping  and  pulling  it  till  perfectly  dry.  The  leather 
will  be  as  soft  as  new  if  the  snapping  and  pulling  are  done  thoroughly. 

To  Clean  Silver-ware  Easily. — Save  water  in  which  potatoes  have  been 
boiled  with  a little  salt,  let  it  become  sour,  which  it  will  do  in  a few  days ; heat 
and  wash  the  articles  with  a woolen  cloth,  rinsing  in  pure  water,  dry  and 
polish  with  chamois  leather.  For  wiping  silver,  an  old  linen  table-cloth  cut 
up  in  pieces  of  convenient  size,  hemmed,  and  marked  “silver,”  is  very  nice. 

Economical  Mats  for  use  in  front-doors,  fire-places,  bureus,  stands,  etc., 
may  be  made  of  coffee  sacking,  cut  to  any  desired  size,  and  worked  in  iDright 
worsted  or  Germantown  w^ool.  Any  simple  pattern  may  be  used  or  it  may 
be  entirely  filled  in  with  a plain  green.  The  edges  of  the  sacking  may  be 
fringed  by  raveling.  To  give  it  weight,  line  with  an  old  piece  of  carpet  or 
heavy  cloth. 

A Good  Cement. — For  mending  almost  anything,  may  be  made  by  mixing 
litharge  and  glycerine  to  the  consistency  of  thick  cream  or  fresh  putty.  This 
cement  is  useful  for  mending  stone  jars,  stopping  leakes  in  seams  of  tin-pans 
or  wash-boilers,  cracks  and  holes  in  iron  kettles,  fastening  on  lamp-tops ; in 
all  cases  the  article  mended  should  not  be  used  till  the  cement  has  hardened. 
This  cement  will  resist  the  action  of  water,  hot  or  cold,  acids,  and  almost  any 
degree  of  heat. 

To  Preserve  Books. — Bindings  may  oe  preserved  from  mildew  by  brush- 
ing them  over  with  the  spirits  of  wine.  A few  drops  of  any  perfumed  oil  will 
secure  libraries  from  the  consuming  effects  of  mold  and  damp.  Russia  leath- 
er which  is  perfumed  with  the  tar  of  the  birch-tree,  never  molds  or  sustains 
injury  from  damp.  The  Romans  used  oil  of  cedar  to  preserve  valuable  man- 
uscripts. Russia-leather  covered  books,  placed  in  a stationer’s  window,  will 
destroy  flies  and  other  insects. 

Badly  Fitting  Boors. — When  blinds  and  doors  do  not  close  snugly,  but 
leave  cracks  through  which  drafts  enter,  the  simplest  remedy  is  this : Place 
a strip  of  putty  all  along  the  jambs,  cover  the  edge  of  the  blind  or  door  with 
chalk,  and  shut  it.  The  putty  will  then  fill  all  spaces  which  would  remain 
open  and  be  pressed  out  where  it  is  not  needed,  while  the  excess  is  easily  re- 
moved with  a knife.  The  chalk  rubbed  on  the  edges  prevents  adhesion,  and 
the  putty  is  left  in  place,  where  it  soon  dries  and  leaves  a perfectly  fitting  jamb. 

Cellar  Floor. — A cellar  floor  may  be  cemented  as  follows  ; Level  the  sur- 
face very  carefully,  without  making  any  hollows  that  will  require  filling,  oth- 
erwise the  surface  should  he  beaten  hard  and  rammed.  Then  cover  the  floor 
with  two  inches  of  broken  stone  and  cement  mortar,  and  beat  this  down 
thoroughly,  making  a smooth  surface  with  a trowel.  Finally  put  on  a surface 
coat  of  half  an  inch  of  clear  cement  (Portland  is  best)  and  water,  rub  smooth 
with  a mason’s  float.  If  troubled  with  rats  strew  lime  and  coperas  over  floor. 

Finish  for  Boom. — A room  with  plain  white  walls  is  finished  beautifully  by 
placing  a black  walnut  (or  the  same  wood  with  which  the  room  is  finished) 
molding  around  the  room  where  the  border  of  paper  is  usually  placed,  at  the 
junction  of  wall  and  ceiling,  or  when  the  room  is  papered  or  frescoed  place 
it  at  bottom  of  the  Ixr.  uer  or  frieze.  The  molding  fli:i  hcd  in  oil,  costs  from 
one  to  five  cents  a fo(vt,  and  is  easily  put  up.  Tiie  upper  edge  should  be 
rounded,  and  a space  of  a ciuarter  incli  left  between  it  and  ceiling.  To  hang 
pictures  buy  an  S hook,  sold  at  all  hardware  stores,  j « :ce  one  hook  over  the 
moulding,  hang  the  pniture  cord  on  tiie  other,  and  slip  to  the  right  or  left  to 
the  desired  position.  This  saves  the  wall  from  injury  from  picture-hooks. 


948 


HOUSEKEEPING. 


Perpetual  Paste. — Dissolve  a teaspoon  of  alum  in  a quart  of  water.  When 
cold,  stir  in  as  much  flour  as  will  give  it  the  consistency  of  thick  cream,  being 
particular  to  beat  up  all  the  lumps ; stir  in  as  much  powdered  resin  as  will 
lay  on  a five  cent  piece,  and  throw  in  half  a dozen  cloves  to  give  it  a pleasant 
odor.  Have  on  the  fire  a tea-cup  of  boiling  water,  pour  the  flour  mixture  in- 
to it,  stirring  well  at  the  time.  In  a few  minutes  it  will  be  of  the  consistency 
of  mush.  Pour  it  into  an  earthen  vessel,  let  it  cool,  lay  a cover  on,  and  put 
in  a cool  place.  When  needed  for  use,  take  out  a portion  and  soften  it  with 
warm  water.  Paste  made  in  this  w'ay  will  last  a year.  It  is  better  than  gum, 
as  it  does  not  gloss  the  paper. 

Indelible  Ink. — Two  drams  lunar  caustic,  six  ounces  distilled  or  rain- 
water ; dissolve,  and  add  two  drams  gum-water.  AVet  the  linen  with  the  fol- 
lowing preparation  : Dissolve  one-half  an  ounce  prepared  natron,  four  ounces 
water,  add  half  ounce  gum-water,  (recipe  belov/)  ; after  smooting  it  wdth  a 
warm  iron,  write  with  the  ink,  using  a gold,  a quill,  or  anew  steel  pen.  The 
writing  must  be  exposed  to  a hot  sun  for  twelve  hours ; do  not  wash  for  one 
week,  then  be  particular  to  get  out  the  stain  which  the  preparation  will  make. 
If  this  is  followed  in  every  particular,  there  need  be  no  failure.  Gum-water  for 
the  above  is  composed  of  two  drams  gum-arabic  to  four  ounces  water.  One 
teaspoon  makes  two  drams,  two  tablespoons  make  one  ounce.  If  at  anytime 
the  ink  becomes  too  pale  add  a little  of  pure  lunar  caustic.  Never  write 
without  using  the  preparation,  as  it  will  rot  the  cloth. 

Farmer’s  Door  Mat. — Every  doorstep  should  be  provided  with  a foot- 
scraper  and  a brush  or  broom,  and  every  one,  as  he  comes  in,  should  take  the 
time  to  use  them  before  appearing  on  the  carpet  or  clean  floor.  If  a regular 
scraper — one  made  for  the  purpose — is  not  at  hand,  one  can  make  one  from 
a bit  of  hoop-iron,  which  is  to  l3e  placed  on  a step  or  edge  of  the  porch  in  a 
convenient  place.  It  is  well  to  provide  a “mud-mat,”  which  is  simply  strips 
an  inch  or  so  square — fence  pickets  will  answer — screwed  to  three  or  four 
cross-pieces  an  inch  apart,  or  a more  elaborate  one  can  be  made  by  stringing 
the  slats  upon  fence  wires.  One  with  muddy  boots  is  very  apt  to  stamp  and 
rub  them  on  the  steps  or  floor  of  the  porch  ; a mud-mat  will  clean  them  off 
more  effectually,  and  save  the  porch  hard  wear.  A very  excellent  mat  may 
be  made  by  boring  holes  in  a board,  and  drawing  corn  husks  through  the  holes. 
Careful  persons  change  their  foot-gear  when  they  enter  the  house  to  remain 
any  length  of  time — a custom  conducive  not  only  to  neatness,  but  so  greatly 
to  comfort,  that  it  is  to  be  commended. 

Moving . — ^AVhen  about  to  move  to  another  house,  begin  packing  two  weeks 
beforehand.  Carefully  packing  small  and  fragile  articles  in  boxes  and  barrels. 
In  this  way,  china  and  glassware,  and  fragile  ornaments  maybe  stowed  away 
with  odd  articles  of  clothing,  bedding,  etc.  Books  should  be  packed  in  box- 
es, or  wrapped  several  in  a package,  in  several  thicknesses  of  newspaper,  and 
tied  with  strong  twine.  They  can  thus  be  transported  with  very  little  hand- 
ling. Larger  pictures  should  be  taken  down  and  tied  in  couples',  face  to  face, 
with  rolls  of  soft  paper  between  the  corners  to  prevent  rubbing.  Small  pic- 
tures may  be  packed  with  clothing  in  bureau  drawers  and  trunks.  Take  up 
carpets  last.  AVhen  about  ready  to  move , select  one  room  up-stairs  into  which 
remove  everything  possible  from  the  other  rooms,  and  another  below  for  the 
same  purpose.  If  the  occupants  of  the  house  into  which  you  are  to  move  will 
do  the  same,  you  can  easily  make  some  rooms  there  ready  for  occupancy.  Of 
course  each  room  must  be  swept  down  and  scrubbed.  As  soon  as  the  floors 
are  dry,  carpets  may  be  put  down  in  the  more  important  rooms,  and  the  fur- 
niture moved  in.  On  the  day  the  transfer  is  made,  see  that  coal  or  fuel  is 
provided,  so  that  a fire  may  be  started,  and  take  along  a basket,  with  match- 
es, towels,  napking,  knives  and  forks,  sugar,  tea,  bread  and  other  materials 


HOUSEKEEPING. 


949 


for  lunching.  With  all  the  caution  you  can  exercise,  you  wfll  find  Franklin’s 
old  saying  true,  that  “three  removes  are  as  bad  as  afire.”  Houses  that  have 
been  empty  may  become  fever  breeders  when  they  come  to  be  re-occupied. 
An  English  sanitary  officer  alleges  that  he  has  observed  typhoid,  diphtheria, 
or  orther  zymotic  afifections  to  arise  under  these  circumstances.  The  cause 
is  supposed  to  be  in  the  disuse  of  the  cisterns,  pipes  and  drains,  the  process 
of  putrefaction  going  on  in  the  impure  air  in  them,  and  unobstructed  access 
of  this  air  into  the  house,  while  the  closure  of  windows  and  doors  effectually 
shuts  out  fresh  air.  Persons  moving  from  the  city  to  their  country  homes  in 
the  summer,  should  see  that  the  drains  and  pipes  are  in  perfect  order,  that 
cellars  and  closets  are  cleared  of  rubbish,  and  the  whole  house  thoroughly 
aired  before  occupying.  Copperas  used  freely  in  the  cellar  is  a good  and 
cheap  disinfectant. 

Labor-saving  Contrivances . — Every  good  housewife  has  neatly  arranged 
cupboard  and  dish  closet.  Everything  has  its  appropriate  shelf  and  division. 
But  there  are  other  things  for  which  provision  should  be  made.  A pile  of 
books  is  sometimes  seen  in  one  part  of  a dining-room,  a few  newspapers  in 
another,  and  a pair  of  shoes  in  a third.  The  inside  of  a closet  is  sometimes 
a mass  of  confusion — “a  place  for  everything,”  and  everything  thrown  pro- 
miscuously into  it.  Half  a dozen  garments  are  hung  upon  one  nail,  to  crowd 
each  other  out  of  shape  ; others  are  thrown  upon  the  floor  amid  heaps  of  boots 
and  shoes.  And  so  on  to  the  end  of  the  chapter  of  carelessness  and  slovenly 
disorder.  There  is  no  excuse  for  such  carelessness,  and  no  satisfaction  in 
such  housekeeping.  Want  of  time  is  no  excuse,  for  such  want  of  system  and 
order  is  the  cause  of  the  most  prodigal  waste  of  time.  It  is  only  necessary  to 
use  the  brain  a little  to  save  the  hands.  Systematic  habits,  doing  every  thing 
well,  and  the  hundred  little  contrivances  which  will  suggest  themselves  to 
every  neat  and  ingenuous  housekeeper,  will  save  time,  and  establish  order 
and  cleanliness.  Have  shelves  in  the  closet,  and  regular  rows  of  hooks,  and 
plenty  of  them ; let  one  side  be  appropriated  to  one  kind  of  clothing,  with  a 
hook  for  each  article  If  necessary  to  preserve  the  order,  make  a neat  label, 
and  paste  over  each  hook.  Make  Shoe-pockets  (these  pockets  are  made  of 
about  two  and  a half  yards  of  calico ; one  yard  of  which  makes  the  back,  to 
he  tacked  to  the  door  when  done.  Split  the  remaining  yard  and  a half  in 
two,  lengthwise,  and,  placing  the  strips  about  one  inch  apart,  make,  across 
the  back,  three  rows  of  pockets,  by  stitching  first  the  ends  of  the  strips  to  the 
sides  of  the  back,  and  then  gather  the  bottom  of  each  strip  to  fit  the  back; 
then  separate  each  strip  into  two,  three,  or  four  pockets,  according  to 
the  use  for  which  they  are  designed,  and  fasten  by  stitching  a narrow 
“piping”  of  calico,  from  top  to  bottom  of  the  back,  between  the  poc- 
kets. All  the  work  may  be  done  on  a machine.  A border  of  leather,  stitched 
on  the  edges  of  the  back,  and  a narrow  strip  used  instead  of  the  calico  “pip- 
ing,” make  whole  much  stronger)  on  the  inside  of  the  doors,  and  never  put 
any  thing  on  the  closet  floor,  where  it  will  be  trodden  upon  in  entering  for 
other  articles.  Never  stuff*  anything  away  out  of  sight  in  haste  and  disorder. 
Hiding  dirtiness  does  not  cure  it.  Those  who  write  many  letters  should  have 
a case,  with  “pigeon  holes”  labeled  and  arranged  alphabetically — a box  for 
three  or  four  letters  is  sufficient — in  which  to  keep  them,  with  one  compart- 
ment for  unanswered  letters.  When  the  case  becomes  crowded,  or  at  the 
end  of  the  year,  wrap  in  packages,  and  label  with  letter  and  the  year.  News- 
papers and  magazines,  when  preserved,  should  be  neatly  filed  in  order  and 
laid  away,  or  sent  away  for  binding.  The  Work-basket,  which  is  in  daily  use, 
is  often  a spectacle  for  gods  and  men — the  very  picture  of  confusion  and  dis- 
order. When  it  can  be  afforded,  one  of  the  new  ladies’  adjustable  work-tables, 
of  which  several  admirable  styles  are  made  and  widely  advertised,  will  be 
found  a great  convenience,  especially  where  there  are  children — whose  little 


950 


HOUSEKEEPING. 


fingers  delight  in  tumbling  the  contents  of  the  basket.  If  a basket  is  used, 
it  should  be  divided  into  compartments.  A circular  basket,  with  divisions 
about  the  edge  for  smaller  articles,  and  larger  spaces  in  the  center,  Is  con- 
venient, and  easily  kept  in  order.  All  these,  and  hundreds  of  other  devices 
like  them,  are  labor-savers,  which  relieve  housekeeping  of  a large  share  of  its 
burdens.  And  a calculation  of  the  time  spent  every  year  in  hunting  through 
closets  for  lost  overshoes  or  slippers,  or  in  cleaning  up  the  scattered  items  in 
the  sitting-room  when  company  is  coming  in,  and  searching  for  missing  let- 
ters among  a miscellaneous  pile  thrown  into  a drawer,  will  give  a startling 
result,  and  convey  some  adequate  idea  of  the  real  money  and  time-value  of 
that  love  of  neatness  and  order  which  is  one  of  the  cardinal  virtues  in  women. 

HOUSEKEEPERS  ALPHABET. 

Apples — Keep  in  dry  place,  as  cool  as  possible  without  freezing. 

Brooms — Hang  in  the  cellar-way  to  keep  soft  and  pliant. 

Cranberries — Keep  under  water,  in  cellar,  change  water  monthly. 

Dish  of  hot  water  set  in  oven  prevents  cakes,  etc.,  from  scorching. 

Economize  time,  health,  and  means,  and  you  will  never  beg. 

Flour — Keep  cool,  dry  and  securely  covered. 

Glass — Clean  with  a quart  of  water  mixed  with  table-spoon  of  ammonia. 

Herbs — Gather  when  beginning  to  blossom  ; keep  in  paper  sacks. 

Ink  Stains — Wet  with  spirits  turpentine,  after  three  hours  rub  well. 

Jars — To  prevent,  coax  ‘‘husband”  to  buy  “Buckeye  Cookery.” 

Keep  an  account  of  all  supplies,  with  cost  and  date  when  purchased 

Love  lightens  labor. 

Money — Count  carefully  when  you  receive  change. 

Nutmegs — Prick  with  a pin,  and  if  good,  oil  will  run  out. 

Orange  and  Lemon  Peel — Dry,  pound,  and  keep  in  corked  bottle. 

Parsnips — Keep  in  ground  until  spring. 

Quicksilver  and  white  of  an  egg  destroy  bedbugs. 

Bice — Select  large,  with  a clear  fresh  look ; old  rice  may  have  insects. 

Sugar — For  general  family  use,  the  fine  granulated  is  best. 

Tea — Equal  parts  of  Japan  and  green  are  as  good  as  English  breakfast* 

Use  a cement  made  of  ashes,  salt,  and  water  for  cracks  in  stove. 

Variety  is  the  best  culinary  spice. 

Watch  your  back  yard  for  dirt  and  bones. 

Xantippe  was  a scold.  Don’t  imitate  her. 

Youth  is  best  preserved  by  a cheerful  temper. 

Zinc-lined  sinks  are  better  than  wooden  ones. 

& regulate  your  clock  by  your  husband’s  watch,  and  in  all  apportion^ 
ments  of  time  remember  the  Giver. 


THE  DINING-ROOM. 


THE  DUSTHSTG^-HOOM. 


It  may  not  be  amiss  to  give  a page  or  two  to  the  observance  of  formal 
dinners  in  “society,”  lest  some  reader — who  may  hope,  if  she  becomes  the 
rare  housekeeper  we  expect,  to  be  called  to  give  such  dinners  as  the  wife  of 
s Congressman,  Governor,  or  even  as  mistress  of  the  White  House  itself — 
should  be  taken  unawares.  In  every  house,  great  or  small,  the  Dining  Room 
should  be  as  bright,  cheerful  and  cosey  as  possible,  and  at  the  table  the  mis- 
tress should  wear  her  brightest  smile.  If  there  are  trials  and  troubles,  do 
not  bring  them  to  the  table.  They  impair  digestion,  and  send  husband  and 
children  out  to  business  or  school,  glum  or  gloomy,  instead  of  refreshed  and 
strengthened.  The  plainest  room  may  be  made  beautiful  by  taste^  and  the 
homeliest  fare  appetizing  by  neatness  and  skill.  Little  attentions  to  decora- 
tion or  pretty  arrangement  of  the  table  charm  the  eye  and  whet  the  appetite, 
and  make  the  home  table  powerfully  attractive.  The  every-day  observance 
of  sensible  and  simple  table  manners  ought  always  to  be  encouraged,  because, 
in  the  long  run,  it  promotes  the  comfort  and  the  cultivation  of  the  family, 
and  takes  the  pain  of  embarasssment  out  of  state  occasions.  Above  all,  the 
room,  the  table  and  its  furniture  should  be  scrupulously  neat  and  orderly. 
For  formal  dinners,  a round  table,  five  to  seven  feet  in  diameter,  is  the  best 
fitted  to  display  the  dinner  and  its  fine  wares ; but  the  extension  table,  about 
four  feet  wide  and  any  length  desired,  is  generally  used.  At  the  roundtable, 
conversation  is,  of  course,  easily  made  general,  the  party  being  small.  The 
table  cloth  must  be  spotless,  and  Under-cover  of  white  felt,  fiannel  or  baize 
gives  the  linen  a heavier  and  finer  appearance.  A center-piece  of  flowers  is 
a pretty  ornament  (some  even  place  upon  the  table  a handsome  vase  filled 
with  gTOwing  plants  in  bloom,  or  a common  flower  pot  may  be  thus  used, 
covering  with  a crocheted  cover  of  green  zepher  made  to  slip  up  over  the 
crock  and  tie  at  the  top  with  cord  and  tassel.  These  are  very  convenient  and 
pretty.)  but  the  flowers  must  be  few  and  rare,  and  of  delicate  odors.  Fruit 


952 


THE  DINING-ROOM. 


in  variety  and  tastefully  arranged  with  green  leaves,  and  surrounded  with 
choice  dessert-dishes,  is  always  attractive  and  elegant.  It  is  also  a pretty 
custom  to  place  a little  bouquet  by  the  side  of  each  lady’s  plate,  and  to  fold 
a bunch  of  three  or  four  flowers  in  the  napkin  of  each  gentleman,  to  be  at- 
tached to  the  left  lapel  of  the  coat  as  soon  as  seats  are  taken  at  the  table. 
Napkins,  which  should  never  be  starched,  are  folded  and  laid  on  the  plates, 
with  a small  piece  of  bread  or  a cold  roll  placed  on  the  top,  or  half  concealed 
by  the  last  fold.  Beside  each  plate  are  placed  as  many  knives,  forks  and 
spoons  as  will  be  needed  in  all  the  courses  (unless  the  lady  prefers  to  have 
them  brought  with  each  new  plate,  which  makes  more  work  and  confusion), 
and  a glass,  to  be  filled  with  fresh  water  just  before  dinner  is  announced.  The 
plates  which  will  be  needed  are  counted  out.  Such  as  are  to  be  filled  with 
ready-prepared  dessert-dishes  are  filled  and  set  in  a convenient  place.  Dish- 
es that  need  to  be  warm,  not  hot,  are  left  on  the  top  shelf  of  the  range  or  else- 
where where  they  will  be  kept  warm  until  needed.  When  the  soup-tureen 
(with  the  soup  at  the  boilingpoint)  and  the  soup-plates  are  placed  before  the 
seat  of  the  hostess,  dinner  may  be  quietly  announced.  The  host  or  hostess, has 
of  course  previously,  indicated  to  each  gentleman  the  lady  with  whose  escort 
he  is  charged,  the  guest  of  honor,  if  a gentleman,  escorting  the  hostess,  and 
taking  a seat  at  her  right ; if  a lady,  being  escorted  by  the  host  to  a seat  at  his 
right.  Each  gentleman  ofiers  the  lady  assigned  to  him  his  right  arm,  and 
escorts  her  to  a seat  at  his  left,  passing  her  in  front  of  him  to  her  chair  which 
he  has  gracefully  drawn  back.  The  distribution  of  seats  will  tax  the  tact  of 
the  hostess,  as  the  moment  of  waiting  to  be  assigned  to  place  is  extremely 
awkward.  Of  course,  all  should  have  been  decided  on  beforehand,  and  the 
places  should  be  designated  with  as  little  confusion  as  possible.  The  success 
of  the  dinner  will  depend  largely  upon  the  grouping  of  agreeable  persons.  The 
host  leads  the  way  to  the  dining  room,  the  hostess  follows  last,  and  all  guests 
stand  until  she  is  seated.  (In  France,  and  at  large  dinner  parties  in  this 
country,  a card  with  the  name  of  each  guest  is  placed  on  the  plate  which  is 
intended  for  him.)  Once  seated  the  rest  is  simply  routine.  Ease  of  manner 
of  the  host  and  hostes,  and  quiet  and  systematic  movements  of  attendants, 
who  should  be  well  trained,  alert  and  noisless,  but  never  in  a hurry,  are  in- 
dispensable. Any  betrayal  of  anxiety  or  embarrassment  on  the  part  of  the 
former,  or  blundering  by  the  latter,  is  a wet  blanket  to  all  enjoyment. 

The  attendant  places  each  dish  in  succession  before  the  host  or  hostess 
(the  soup,  salad  and  dessert  only  being  served  by  the  hostess)  with  the  pile 
of  plates.  Each  plate  is  supplied,  taken  by  the  attendant  on  a small  salver, 
and  set  before  the  guest  from  the  left.  Any  second  dish  which  belongs  to  the 
course  is  presented  at  the  left  of  the  guest,  who  helps  himself.  As  a rule  the 
lady  at  the  right  of  the  host,  or  the  oldest  lady,  should  be  served  first.  As 
soon  as  one  has  finished,  his  plate  is  promptly  removed,  and  w^hen  all  are 
done,  the  next  course  is  served  in  the  same  way.  Before  the  dessert  is  brought 
on,  ail  crumbs  should  be  brushed  from  the  cloth.  The  finger-bowls,  which 
are  brought  in  on  the  napkin  on  the  dessert-plate  and  set  off  to  the  left  of  the 


THE  DINING-EOOM. 


953 


plate,  are  used  by  dipping  the  fingers  in  lightly  and  drying  them  on  the  nap- 
kin. They  should  be  half  full  of  warm  water  with  a bit  of  lemon  floating  in 
it.  When  all  have  finished  dessert,  the  hostess  gives  the  signal  that  dinner 
is  ended  by  pushing  back  her  chair,  and  the  ladies  repair  to  the  drawing- 
room, the  oldest  leading  and  the  youngest  following  last,  and  the  gentlemen 
repairing  to  the  library  or  smoking  room.  In  about  half  an  hour,  tea  is  served 
in  the  drawing-room  with  a cake-basket  of  crackers  or  little  cakes,  the  gentle- 
men join  the  ladies,  and  after  a little  chat  over  their  cups,  all  are  at  liberty  to 
take  leave. 

It  is,  of  course,  presupposed  that  the  host  carves,  and  carves  well.  If  he 
does  not  he  should  forego  the  plea^^  ure  of  inviting  his  friends  to  dinner,  or  the 
dinner  should  be  from  chops,  ribs,  or  birds  which  do  not  require  carving. 

In  making  up  a dinner  party,  it  is  all  important  to  know  who  will  accept ; 
and  invitations,  which  may  be  written  or  printed,  and  should  be  sent  by  mes- 
senger and  never  mailed  to  persons  in  the  same  town,  should  receive  a prompt 
reply,  a day’s  delay  being  the  extreme  limit.  The  simplest  form  of  invita- 
tion and  reply  is  best,  but  both  must  be  formal,  this  being  one  of  the  occasions 
on  which  the  wings  of  genius  must  be  promptly  clipped.  Ten  minutes  be- 
yond the  appointed  time,  is  the  utmost  limit  of  tardiness  admissable  in  a 
guest,  and  ten  minutes  early  are  quite  enough. 

THE  HOST  AND  HOSTESS. 

Those  who  entertain  snould  remember  it  is  vulgar  hospitality,  exceed- 
ingly annoying  to  guests,  to  overload  plates,  or  to  insist  on  a second  supply. 
If  a guest  wants  more,  he  knows  that  it  is  a delicate  compliment  to  a dish  to 
pass  his  plate  the  second  time.  Too  great  a variety  of  dishes  is  also  a coarse 
display.  A few  cooked  to  a nicety  and  served  with  grace,  make  the  most 
charming  dinners.  A sensible  bill  of  fare  is  soup,  fish  with  one  vegetable,  a 
roast  with  one  or  two  vegetables  and  a salad  and  cheese,  and  a dessert.  Par- 
ties should  be  made  up  of  congenial  persons,  and  the  table  should  never  be 
crowded.  Novel  dishes  are  great  strokes  of  policy  in  dinners,  but  no  wise 
housewife  will  try  experiments  on  new  dishes  on  such  an  occasion.  The  carv- 
er should  serve  meat  as  he  cuts  it,  so  far  as  possible,  and  not  fill  the  platter 
with  hacked  fragments.  It  is  ill-bred  to  help  too  abundantly,  or  to  flood  food 
with  gravies,  which  are  disliked  by  many.  Above  all,  the  plate  should  be 
served  neatly.  Nothing  creates  such  disgust  as  a plate  bedaubed  with  gravy 
or  scattered  food.  It  may  be  taken  for  granted  that  every  one  will  take  a 
piece  of  the  breast ; and  after  this  is  served,  it  is  proper  to  ask,  “What  part  do 
you  prefer  ?”  The  wings  and  legs  should  be  placed  crisp  side  uppermost,  the 
stuflang  should  not  be  scattered,  and  the  brown  side  or  edge  of  slice  should 
be  kept  from  contact  with  vegetables  or  gravy,  so  that  its  delicacy  may  be 
preserved.  Water  should  be  poured  at  the  right  hand.  Every  thing  else  is 
served  at  the  left.  The  hostess  should  continue  eating  until  all  guests  have 
finished.  Individual  salt-dishes  are  used  at  breakfast,  but  not  at  dinner — a 


954 


THE  DINING-ROOM. 


cruet,  with  salt  dish  and  spoon,  at  each  end  of  the  table,  being  preferred  as 
giving  the  table  less  of  a hotel  air.  The  salt  dishes  should  be  neatly  filled. 
Jellies  and  sauces  are  helped  on  the  dinner  plate  and  not  on  side  dishes.  If 
there  are  two  dishes  of  dessert,  the  host  may  serve  the  most  substantial  one, 
Fruit  is  served  after  puddings  and  pies,  and  coffee  last.  In  pouring  coffee, 
the  sugar  and  cream  is  placed  in  the  cup  first.  If  milk  is  used,  it  should  be 
scalding  hot.  Some  prefer  to  make  coffee  strong,  then  weaken  it  with  scald- 
ing hot  milk,  and  pour  into  cups  in  which  cream  and  sugar  have  previously 
been  placed.  For  tea  it  is  better  to  pour  first  and  then  add  cream  and  sugar. 
In  winter  plates  should  be  warmed,  not  made  hot. 

INDIVIDUAL  MANNERS- 

Manners,  at  table  and  elsewhere,  are  made  for  the  convenience  and  com- 
fort of  men,  and  all  social  observances  have  now,  or  have  had  at  some  time, 
a good  reason  and  sound  common  sense  behind  them.  It  must  be  remem- 
bered, however,  that  the  source  of  all  good  manners  is  a nice  perception  of, 
and  kind  consideration  for,  not  only  the  rights,  but  the  feelings  and  even  the 
whims  of  others.  The  customs  of  society  are  adoptod  and  observed  to  enable 
us  to  be  more  agreeable,  or  at  least  not  disagreeable,  to  friends.  And  nowhere 
is  the  distinction  between  the  gentleman  and  the  boor  more  marked  than  at 
the  table.  Some  persons  are  morbidly  sensitive,  and  even  slight  improprie- 
ties create  disgust ; and  every  true  gentleman  is  bound  to  respect  their  sensi- 
tiveness and  avoid  giving  pain,  whether  in  sympathy  with  the  feeling  or  not. 

As  this  is  not  an  etiquette  book,  we  can  only  give  a few  hints.  Once 
seated  at  table,  gloves  are  drawn  off  and  laid  in  the  lap  under  the  napkin, 
which  is  spread  lightly,  not  tucked  in.  Raw  oysters  are  eaten  with  a fork ; 
soup  from  the  side  of  a spoon  without,  noise,  or  tipping  the  plate.  The  mouth 
should  not  go  to  the  food,  but  food  to  the  mouth.  Eat  without  noise  and  with 
the  lips  closed.  Friends  will  not  care  to  see  how  you  masticate  your  food, 
unless  they  are  of  a very  investigating  turn  of  mind.  Bread  should  be  broken, 
not  cut,  and  should  be  eaten  by  morsels,  and  not  broken  into  soup  or  gravy. 
It  is  in  bad  taste  to  mix  food  on  the  plate.  Fish  must  be  eaten  with  the  fork. 
Macaroni  is  cut  and  cheese  crumbed  on  the  plate,  and  eaten  with  a fork 
Pastry  should  be  broken  and  eaten  with  a fork,  never  cut  with  a knife.  Game 
and  chicken  are  cut,  but  never  eaten  with  the  bones  held  in  the  fingers.  Or- 
anges are  peeled  with  out  breaking  the  inner  skin,  being  held  meantime  on  a 
fork.  Pears  are  pared  while  held  by  the  stem.  Cherry-stones,  or  other  sub- 
stances which  are  to  be  removed  from  the  mouth,  are  passed  to  the  napkin 
held  to  the  lips,  and  then  returned  to  the  plate.  Salt  must  be  left  on  the  side 
of  the  plate,  and  never  on  the  table  cloth.  Cut  with  the  knife,  but  never  put  it 
in  the  mouth ; the  fork  must  convey  the  food,  and  may  be  held  in  either  hand 
as  convenient.  (Of  course,  when  the  old-fashioned  two-tined  fork  is  used,  it 
would  be  absurd  to  practice  this  rule.)  Food  that  cannot  be  held  with  a fork 
should  be  eaten  with  a spoon.  Never  help  yourself  to  butter  or  any  other 


THE  DINING-ROOM. 


955 


food  with  your  own  knife  or  fork.  Never  pick  your  teeth  at  table,  or  make 
any  soimd  with  the  mouth  in  eating.  Bread  eaten  with  meat  should  not  be 
buttered.  Bread  and  butter  is  a dish  for  dessert.  Eat  slowly  for  both  health 
and  manners.  Do  not  lean  your  arms  on  the  table,  or  sit  too  far  back,  or 
lounge.  Pay  as  little  attention  as  possible  to  accidents.  When  asked  ‘‘what 
do  you  prefer?’’  name  some  part  at  once.  , When  done,  lay  your  knife  and 
fork  side  by  side  on  the  plate,  with  handles  to  the  right.  When  you  rise  from 
your  chair  leave  it  where  it  stands.  Of  course,  loud  talking  or  boisterous 
conduct  is  entirely  out  of  place  at  table,  where  each  should  appear  at  his  best, 
practicing  all  he  can  of  the  amenities  of  life,  and  observing  all  he  knows  of 
the  forms  of  good  society. 

BREAKFAST  PARTIES. 

Breakfast  parties  are  becoming  fashionable  in  cities,  because  less  formal 
and  expensive  than  dinners,  and  quite  as  agreeable  to  guests.  The  courses, 
which  are  usually  fewer  in  number,  are  served  precisely  as  described  for  din- 
ners. Oatmeal  porridge  is  a favorite  and  healthful  first  course,  and  oranges, 
melons,  and  all  fruits  are  delicious  breakfast  dishes.  The  variety  of  omelets 
is  also  a great  resource,  and  hundreds  of  other  delicacies  and  substantials  are 
described  elsewhere.  But  in  breakfast — and  the  same  is  true  of  dinners — ^it 
is  better  to  have  a few^,  a very  few,  dishes  delicately  and  carefully  cooked, 
than  to  attempt  more  and  have  them  less  perfect.  In  fact  the  trouble  often 
lies  in  attempting  too  many,  and  the  consequent  hurry  in  the  kitchen.  At 
breakfast,  the  coflfee  is  set  before  the  mistress,  with  cups  in  their  saucers  in 
front  of  it,  in  one  or  two  rows.  The  meat  with  plates  is  set  before  the  mas- 
ter. For  an  ordinary  table  one  castor  in  the  center  is  sufficient.  Fruit  is 
served  first;  then  oatmeal  or  cracked  wheat,  next  meat  and  vegetables,  fol- 
lowed by  hot  cakes  and  coflTee.  Meats  are  covered,  and  cakes  are  brought  in 
between  two  plates.  Butter  is  put  on  in  small  pats  with  lumps  of  ice  about 
it.  Honey  or  maple  syrup,  for  cakes  or  hot  biscuits,  is  served  in  saucers.  A 
breakfast-table  may  be  spread  attractively  with  a white  cloth,  and  a scarlet 
and  white  napkin-  under  each  plate,  with  white  table-mats  with  a scarlet 
border. 

For  evening  parties,  it  is  often  less  expense  and  trouble  to  place  supper 
in  the  hands  of  a regular  confectioner,  but  for  small  card  or  literary  parties 
the  trouble  need  not  be  great.  For  regular  reception  evenings,  ices,  cakes 
and  chocolate  are  enough. 

In  cases  where  no  “help”  is  employed  it  is  better  to  have  some  one  of  the 
family  wait  upon  the  table,  the  daughters  taking  turns  in  serving,  as  the 
pleasure  of  the  meal  is  greatly  marred  by  two  or  three  persons  jumping  up 
every  now  and  then,  for  articles  needed. 

TABLE  OUTFIT. 

In  the  selection  of  table  wares,  there  is  a wide  field  for  the  exercise  of 
taste,  and  those  whose  purses  permit,  need^  not  be  at  a loss  to  find  the  most 


956 


THE  DINING-ROOM. 


elegant  and  artistic  designs.  An  admirable  table  outfit  is  an  elegant  dessert 
set,  all  the  pieces  of  which,  except  the  plates,  may  decorate  the  table  during 
the  whole  dinner,  and  the  rest  of  white  and  gilt  china.  Some  have  table- 
ware decorated  to  match  the  colors  of  the  dining-room,  or  sets  of  different 
patterns  for  each  course,  or  harlequin  sets  in  which  each  piece  may  be  of  dif- 
ferent pattern  or  even  of  different  vrare.  Chinese  and  Japanese  sets  are  also 
fashionable.  In  every  case,  ware  should  be  the  best  of  its  kind,  and  for  econ- 
omy’s sake  should  be  plain,  so  that  broken  pieces  may  be  readily  and  cheap- 
ly replaced.  Light  knives  and  forks,  heavy  tea-spoons,  and  thin  glasses  for 
water  are  most  elegant.  The  chairs  should  have  no  arms  to  interfere  with 
ladies’  dresses,  and  to  prevent  noise  the  legs  should  be  tipped  with  rubber. 

CLEARING  THE  TABLE. 

Gather  up  the  fragments  that  nothing  be  lost  or  wasted.  When  each  meal 
is  over,  if  you  do  not  have  a crumb-cloth  under  the  table,  which  when  the 
chairs  are  removed,  can  be  lifted  carefully  at  the  edges  and  the  crumbs  shak- 
en into  the  center,  it  is  best  to  take  a broom  and  sweep  the  crumbs  lightly 
under  the  table  until  the  dishes  and  victuals  are  removed,  then  brush  on  a 
dust  pan.  To  clear  the  table,  bring  in  a dish-pan,  gather  up  all  the  silver, 
cups  and  saucers,  butter  and  sauce  plates,  and  glassware,  carry  to  the  kitch- 
en, place  them  in  the  sink  and  return  with  the  pan.  Scrape  the  plates  as 
clean  as  possible  and  put  in,  add  platters  and  vegetable  dishes,  saving  all  the 
remnants  of  food  that  are  to  be  kept,  on  smaller  dishes,  to  be  taken  to  the 
cellar  or  refrigerator.  To  wash  the  dishes  have  clear  hot  water  in  the  pan, 
and  first  wash  the  silver  without  soap  or  cloth,  using  only  the  hands ; if  any 
are  greasy,  wipe  with  a soft  paper  before  putting  in  the  water,  (or  with  a crust 
of  bread  and  keep  it  for  food  for  any  animal  or  poultry),  rinse  in  clear  hot 
water  and  wipe  off  immediately  on  a perfectly  dry,  soft,  clean  towel ; in  this 
way  the  silver  is  kept  bright,  and  does  not  get  scratched.  Add  some  soap  in 
the  water,  make  a suds,  wash  the  glassware,  rinse  and  wipe  dry.  Next  take 
the  cups  and  saucers  and  so  on,  leaving  those  most  greasy  till  the  last.  Al- 
ways keep  a clean  dish-cloth.  One  lady  writes,  have  smelled  a whole 
houseful  of  typhoid  fever  in  one  sour,  dirty  dish  -rag.”  Many  prefer  the  use  of 
three  dish-cloths,  one  for  the  nicest  articles,  one  for  the  greasy  dishes,  and 
one  for  the  pots  and  kettles,  keeping  each  cloth  perfectly  sweet  and  clean,  and 
after  using,  washing,  rinsing,  and  hanging  to  dry  on  a small  rack  kept  for 
this  purpose.  The  towel  for  wiping  dishes  may  also  dry  here.  A dish  mop 
or  swab  for  washing  small  deep  articles  is  convenient. 

Let  no  one  suppose  that  because  she  lives  in  a small  house,  and  dines  on 
homely  fare,  that  the  general  principles  here  laid  down  do  not  apply  to  her. 
A small  house  is  more  easily  kept  clean  than  a palace  ; taste  may  be  quite  as 
well  displayed  in  the  arrangement  of  dishes  on  a pine  table  as  in  grouping 
the  silver  and  china  of  the  rich.  Skill  in  cooking  is  as  readily  shown  in  a baked 
potatoe  or  a johnny-cake  as  in  a canvas-back  duck.  The  charm  of  good  house- 


THE  DINING-ROOM. 


957 


keeping  lies  in  a nice  attention  to  little  things,  not  in  superabundance.  A 
dirtr  kitchen  and  bad  cooking  have  driven  many  a husband  and  son,  and 
many  a daughter  too,  from  a home  that  should  have  been  a refuge  from  temn- 
tation.  ^‘Bad  dinners  go  hand  in  hand  with  total  depravitu ; while  a proper- 
ly fed  man  is  already  half  saved.” 

GARNISHES. 

Garnishes  should  be  used  as  freely  as  possible  in  the  different  dishes, 
making  the  latter  inviting  to  the  eye  as  well  as  to  the  palate.  Mutton  cutlets, 
for  instance,  neatly  arranged  upon  the  same  dish  with  green  pease  or  toma- 
toes, appear  far  more  attractive  than  when  dished  apart  from  the  vegetables. 
Fish,  cold  meats,  fowls,  etc.,  can  be  charmingly  decorated  with  sprigs  of  par- 
sley, chopped  carrots,  and  such-like  trifles.  A shape  of  blanc-mange  in 
a glass  dish,  surrounded  by  crimson  preserves  looks  doubly  tempting. 

A roast  of  beef  sur- 
rounded, as  ilkistrat- 
ed,  with  flov/rets  of 
cooked  califlower  al- 
ternated with  slices 
of  red  beet  makes  a 
uandsome  dish,  and 
the  varity  of  garnishes 
are  as  many  as  the  xU 
genuity  of  the  cook 
may  devise.  Some  of 
the  most  common  for  small  game  are  dried  toasted  bread,  slices  of 
lemon,  parsley  and  currant  jelly ; for  larger  game,  such  as  wild  duck,  etc., 
cranberry  sauce,  apple  sauce,  sliced  lemons  or  oranges  and  parsley,  and 
for  a goose,  nothing  is  nicer  than  baked  apples.  For  prairie  chicken,  an 
easily  prepared  and  palatable  garnish  is  slices  of  fried  salt  pork.  It  is 
cooked  with  the  chicken  instead  of  butter  or  lard,  thus  giving  the  latter  a 
delicious  flaver,  while  the  pork  is  also  flavored  with  the  chicken ; when 
served  a slice  of  pork  accompanies  a piece  of  chicken.  One  should  not  fail 
to  try  this  dish,  as  they  will  find  the  frying  With  Salt  Pork  to  be  quite  an 
addition.  A nice  garnish  for  Charlotte  Russe  or  any  other  cream,  is  to  take 
part  of  an  inch-thick  sheet  of  sponge  cake  and  ice  with  Cape  May  Icing  made 
as  follows  ; to  the  beaten  yolk  and  white  of  one  egg,  add  cup  powdered  sugar, 
beating  well  together ; melt  in  pan  over  teakettle  two  or  three  squares  Bak- 
er’s chocolate  according  to  strength  of  flavor  liked,  add  this  to  above  and 
when  well  mixed,  stir  in  a tablespoon  hailing  milk.  Spread  at  once  ; when 
stiff  cut  cake  in  small  squares,  diamonds  or  any  shape  wished  and  surround 
the  cream  with  them.  When  serving  place  one  or  two  squares  on  each  dish. 
Or  cover  the  cake  with  with  the  French  Icing,  page  418,  and  over  it  spread 
the  above,  or  a Chocolate  Icing,  page  416,  or  either  of  the  Chocolate  Caramel 
Icings,  page  417 ; then  cut  and  garnish  as  above.  This  latter  is  called  the 


958 


THE  DINING-ROOM. 


Duplex  Icing  and  either  it  or-  the  Cape  May  are  delicious  for  large  cakes 
or  layer  cakes.  For  more  complete  directions  of  different  garnishes  see 
Garnishes  and  Sauces,  page  975. 

TABLE  DECORATIONS. 

The  candlesticks,  or  lamps,  dishes,  glass,  and  other  necessary  articles 
of  the  table  may  be  placed  in  line  and  different  positions  down  the  center  of 
the  table,  for  a full  course  six-o’clock  dinner.  Always  study  what  will  look 
well  in  plate,  china  and  glass  in  combination  with  flowers.  Good  taste 
must  be  used  on  this  point  to  avoid  bad  combinations  of  color.  Huge 
pieces  of  plate,  set  on  the  table  merely  for  show,  often  destroy  the  general 
effect  of  the  whole  table.  They  would  look  far  better  placed  on  the  side- 
board on  a velvet  covered  dresser.  China  figures,  either  to  hold  flowers  or 
as  works  of  art,  always  look  well,  and  when  flowers  are  scarce  are  a great 
assistance,  as  a few  flowers  can  then  be  arranged  so  as  to  give  the  color  and 
life  wanted.  In  the  hot  days  of  summer,  ice  in  the  form  of  pyramids  cut  out 
in  handsome  shapes,  as  ice  palaces  and  clifferent  designs,  are  sometimes  in- 
tt’oduced  to  give  coolness  and  freshness  to  the  dinner-table.  The  pyramid 
may  be'surrounded  by  fern-leaves,  cut  flowers,  and  sometimes  it  is  placed 
on  a large  (mirror)  glass  plaque,  and  with  the  light  reflected  from  that  mir- 
ror on  to  the  ice,  a brilliant  effect  is  produced.  Much  caution  as  to  providing 
drainage  must  be  used,  as  the  melted  water  is  apt  to  overflow  on  the  table- 
cloth. A pretty  arrangment  for  a table  of  twelve  or  fourteen  are  flowers  in 
a narrow  crystal  tray,  arranged  in  form  of  a St.  Andrew’s  cross,  placed  in  cen- 
ter of  table,  gilt  candlesticks  at  each  end,  and  down  through  the  centre, 
lengthwise  of  the  table,  a wide  strip  ot  red  plush  trimmed  on  its  edges  with 
smilax  and  cut  flowers,  and  at  the  four  corners  of  table,  semi-circular  trays 
filled  with  the  same  flowers  ; or  in  hunting  season,  a gilt  ornament  of  hunt- 
ers and  dogs  standing  by  tree,  top  of  tree  filled  with  fruits  and  flowers,  gilt 
candlesticks  each  side  of  this  centre,  with  smilax  running  from  centre  to 
each  corner  and  looped  all  around  the  cloth  ; china  ornament  at  the  head  of 
table,  camp  fire  and  colored  caraffes  with  clusters  of  glasses  around  them,  a 
half  dozen  or  more  cut  glasses  of  different  heights  filled  with  bright  bunches 
of  mountain  ash  berries ; at  the  left  of  the  centre  a large  block  of  ice  sur- 
rounded by  wreaths  of  water-lilies.  This  piece  of  ice  should  be  frozen  for 
the  occasion  and  filled  with  small  fish  and  mounted  on  a large  silver  stand, 
■^rhich  is  a boat  with  fishing  rods  and  guns. 

STAND-UP  SUPPERS. 

Suitable  refreshments  for  a supper  buffet  on  occasions  sue^  as  recept- 
ions, after-dinner  routs,  ball  parties,  etc.,  where  a supper,  on  conventional 
lines,  may  be  dispensed  with.  Beef,  ham  and  tongue  sandwiches,  lobster 
and  oyster  patties,  sausage  rolls,  meat  rolls,  lobster  salad,  dishes  of  fowls,  the 
latter  all  cutup,  dishes  of  sliced  ham,  sliced  tongue,  sliced  beef  and  galantine 
of  veal ; various  jellies,  blanc-manges  and  creams  ; custards  in  glasses,  com- 
potes of  fruit,  tartlets  of  jam  and  several  dishes  of  small  fancy  pastry  ; dishes 
of  fresh  fruit,  bonbons,  sweetmeats,  two  or  three  sponge  cakes,  a few  plates 
of  biscuits,  and  the  buffet  ornamented  with  vases  of  fresh  or  artificial  flowers. 
The  above  dishes  are  quite  sufficient  for  a standing  supper.  Where  more  are 
desired,  a supper  must  then  be  laid  and  served  in  the  usual  manner. 


HOW  TO  GIVE  A DINNER. 


959 


HOW  TO  OIVE  A omisrEK. 


An  oval  table,  as  given  in  diagram,  appears  to  be  the  most  sociable ; and 
although  it  is  against  all  precedent,  the  host  and  hostess  should  sit  at  the  two 
sides  of  the  table  instead  of  the  two  ends,  although  in  diagram  it  is  arranged 
for  the  two  ends.  Sitting  at  the  sides  of  the  table  the  host  and  hostess  are 
nearer  their  guests,  and  are  better  able  to  enjoy  their  society  and  to  entertain 
them.  No  pains  should  be  spared  to  have  the  most  comfortable  chairs.  Un- 
der each  chair  should  be  placed  a stool  or  hassock  for  ladies,  or  for  such  as 
may  require  it.  The  table  linen  should  be  nicely  laundried.  The  table-cloth 
should  not  over-lap  the  table  so  much  as  to  be  in  the  way  of  the  guests.  If 
napkins  are  too  stiff  they  cannot  be  folded  well  nor  used  with  comfort.  Under 
the  cloth  there  should  be  a thick  piece  of  belt  or  green  baize  the  exact  size 
of  the  table.  When  carving  is  to  be  done  on  the  table  a large  napkin  should 
be  placed  before  the  carver  to  be  removed  in  case  of  accidents.  It  is  also  ad- 
visable to  have  a supply  of  napkins  at  hand  to  use  in  case  the  table  cloth  is  soiled 
during  dinner.  The  use  of  mats  on  the  table  is  to  be  deprecated,  as  the  thick 
baize  should  protect  the  table  from  the  heat  of  the  dishes.  The  better  way  is 
to  put  dishes  on  the  table  without  covers,  and  thus  avoid  a puff  of  fast  con- 
densing vapor  in  the  faces  of  the  guests.  In  first  class  dinners  the  soup  tu- 
reen fs  not  placed  on  the  table,  but  soup  is  served  from  it  from  the  side-board. 
The  soup  having  been  disposed  of,  the  fish  is  brought  to  the  table,  and  served 
by  the  host  or  hostess.  On  the  removal  of  fish,  four  entrees  judiciously  select- 
ed, and  each  a complete  dish  in  itself,  are  handed  round ; or  two  are  placed 
on  the  table  one  at  each  end,  and  the  other  two  handed  round.  When  guests 
have  nearly  finished  these  two  relieves  or  pieces  de  resistance  are  placed  on  the 
table  one  at  each  end,  and  each  likewise  a complete  dish  in  itself.  They  in 
turn  give  place  to  a couple  of  roasts  or  roast  and  boiled,  or  poultry,  or  game, 
and  two  or  more  entrements  should  be  served  with  it.  Then  comes  the  des- 
sert. A reference  to  diagrams  will  further  illustrate  this.  The  above  bill  of 
fare  is  only  given  in  the  way  of  suggestion.  Six  courses  may  be  made  of  it,  or 
four  as  preferred.  It  is  proper  to  hand  around  salad  with  roasts  of  all  kinds, 


960 


HOW  TO  GIVE  A DINNER. 


or  with  plain  boiled  or  fried  fish.  If  game  or  poultry  do  not  figure  in  the  bli 
of  fare,  one  of  the  relieves  should  be  a roast,  and  the  entrements  should  be  served 
with  it.  Cheese  should  not  be  placed  on  the  table,  but  handed  around  ent 
in  thin  slices.  It  should  be  eaten  before  the  entrements  prepared  as  some  fancy 
dish,  or  if  served  in  natural  state,  use  Parmesan  cream  or  some  first  class 
cheese.  The  reason  of  the  English  custom  of  eating  cheese  after  dessert  lies 
in  the  declining  fashion  of  wine  drinking  after  dinner.  In  France  cheese  is 
always  served  with  the  dessert.  In  hot  weather  all  drinks  should  be  cooled ; 
this  should  be  done  from  without,  except  water,  in  which  a lump  of  ice  is  not 
disagreeable.  The  lady  of  the  house  should  see  that  the  appearance  of  the 
dessert  is  such  that  each  dish,  the  fruit  especially,  should,  with  the  help  of 
flowers  and  leaves,  be  made  into  an  elegant  ornament.  Fern  leaves  are  well 
adapted  for  this  purpose.  It  is  most  artistic  to  use,  when  practicable,  the 
leaves  of  the  fruit  used  on  the  table.  Artificial  leaves  should  never  be  em- 
ployed. No  fruits  or  confectionery,  should  appear  accept  such  as  are  good  to 
eat.  Canned  fruits  and  the  many  colored  productions  of  the  confectioner 
should  always  be  of  the  best  and  purest.  There  is  no  limit  to  the  number  of 
dishes  which  go  to  form  dessert  but  it  is  better  to  have  too  little  than  to  have 
inferior  kinds  or  damaged  fruit  on  the  table.  A dish  of  dry  biscuit  and  one 
of  olives  should  never  be  omitted,  but  the  latter  should  be  served  in  water  and 
not  in  the  liquid  they  are  preserved  in.  The  position  of  each  dish  is  impor- 
tant. These  should  be  arranged  rightly,  both  for  the  efi’ect  and  appearance 
and  also  so  as  to  be  accessible  to  the  guests.  The  dessert  should  be  kept 
dished  up  in  an  adjoining  room  or  if  necessary  in  warm  weather  in  a cool 
place  to  be  brought  in  when  wanted.  Except  when  dessert  is  to  be  handed 
round,  guests  prefer  to  help  themselves  and  to  be  free  from  the  presence  of 
waiters.  Use  water  in  the  finger  glasses  perfumed  with  a few  drops  of  rose 
water  or  lavender. 

Coffee  as  bright  as  well  decantered  wine  is  the  proper  conclusion  of  every 
dinner.  The  plate,  the  dinner,  the  dessert  service,  the  glass,  etc.,  goagreat 
way  towards  making  the  dinner  table  look  pretty  and  inviting.  The  most  fash- 
ionable dinner  service  is  of  plain  white  with  a small  fillet  of  gold  and  the  arms 
or  crest  and  motto  of  the  owner  printed  on  the  fiat  rim  of  the  plates  and  dish- 
es. The  glass  should  also  be  engraved  with  the  small  heraldic  device.  Des- 
sert service  made  entirely  of  glass  are  sometimes  used  and  has  a pretty  effect. 
One  thing  not  to  be  forgotten  is  to  be  sure  and  have  good  bread ; if  you  do  not, 
procure  roils  from  your  baker. 

INSTRUCTIONS  TO  WAITERS. 

1.  In  the  *‘demi-Russe”  dinner  here  given,  the  joints  or  dishes  are  to  be 
carved  before  placing  before  the  person  serving  them. 

2.  The  person  serving  fills  the  plates  according  to  the  preference  of  each 
guest.  The  waiter  then  hands  the  plate,  and  if  vegetables  or  sauce  accompa- 
nies the  dish,  will  also  hand  these  to  the  guest  at  the  same  time  he  does  the 
plate,  unless  a second  waiter  does  this. 


HOW  TO  GIVE  A DINNER. 


961 


3.  If  waiter  is  asked  for  tea,  coffee  or  chocolate,  he  will  furnish  thesa 
from  sideboard.  If  asked  for  water,  he  will  take  it  from  pitcher  on  table. 

4.  The  waiter  will  see  that  the  proper  number  of  plates  are  placed  be- 
fore server  for  each  separate  dish  of  the  course. 

6.  No  plates  are  placed  on  table  for  this  style  of  dinner.  Only  a napkin 
with  a roll  or  square  of  bread  in  its  place  where  the  plate  would  be.  Also 
two  knives,  one  large,  one  small,  and  two  forks  and  a spoon,  also  glass  for 
water.  (See  diagram.) 

6.  Furnish  both  ends  of  the  table  alike,  and,  in  addition  to  the  service 
placed  for  each  guest,  furnish  a carving  knife,  and  fork,  a fish  slice  and  prong. 
Also  furnish  a gravy  spoon  with  each  fresh  dish  placed  at  the  ends  of  the  table^ 

7.  If  two  kinds  of  soup  or  in  case  where  any  two  dishes  are  to  be  served^ 
place  one  at  each  end  of  the  table.  If  there  are  three  or  four  e«free»,  plaet 
the  two  leading  ones  at  ends  of  the  table,  and  hand  around  the  others. 

8.  Always  hand  the  sauce  for  each  particular  dish  to  the  guest  partaking 

of  that  dish.  ^ 

9.  If  asked  for  the  pepper  or  anything  else  from  the  cruet  or  castor, 
hand  the  cruet  or  castor  entire  to  the  guest. 

10.  If  asked  for  any  condiment  such  as  French  mustard,  olive,  chow- 
diow,  etc.,  etc.,  hand  bottle,  if  in  a bottle,  or  glass,  if  in  a glass,  to  the  guest, 
with  the  prong  or  fork,  and  let  the  guest  serve  himself,  then  place  back  where 
in  was  on  the  table. 

11.  Be  on  the  alert,  and  in  case  of  accident,  hand  your  napkin  to  the 
guest,  if  necessary  remove  nis  plate,  remedy  the  trouble  as  soon  as  possible^ 
lay  down  a mat  on  the  soiled  cloth,  and  replenish  with  knives  and  forks,  nap- 
kin, etc.,  and  procure  the  guest  a fresh  supply  of  what  he  was  eating. 

12.  When  you  place  dessert  on  the  table,  place  a dessert  plate,  dessert 
snife  and  fork,  also  spoon,  to  each  plate.  Remember  also  the  ^ger  bowl. 

13.  If  ice-cream  is  served,  serve  it  independent  of  the  head  of  the  table, 
as  his  work  is  through  with  the  first  courses.  The  usual  form  of  ice  cream 
now  is  bricks,  or  individual  forms  as  described  in  Ices  and  Ice-cream. 

14.  When  dessert  is  half  through,  hand  the  menu,  or  bill  of  fare  to  each 
guest,  calling  his  attention  to  the  ice-cream.  Take  his  order  and  fill  it. 

15.  If  any  guest  has  already  ordered  ice-cream,  do  not  offer  the  bill  of 
fare  to  him 

16.  If  it  is  decided  to  have  boquets,  called  a **boutonniere,**  for  the  guests, 
then  place  one  in  a glass  or  silver  holder  by  the  plate  of  each  lady  and  gen- 
tleman, unless,  as  is  sometimes  the  case,  those  for  the  gentlemen  are  placed 
on  the  napkins  without  a holder. 

17.  If  salad  accompanies  any  dish — a salad  is  always  in  order— hand  it 
around  to  each  guest. 

18.  The  host  sits  at  the  head  of  the  table ; the  hostess  opposite  him 
the  other  end  of  the  table. 


61 


962 


HOW  TO  GIVE  A DINNER. 


19.  The  soup  is  always  placed  before  the  hostess,  and  if  the  salad  is 
placed  on  the  table,  that  is  also  placed  before  her,  and  any  portion  of  the 
dessert  she  may  desire  to  serve,  and  is  handed  from  her  to  the  guests. 

20.  The  waiter  will  remove  each  person’s  plate  as  soon  as  he  has  finished. 

21.  Be  quick,  yet  do  not  appear  in  a hurry.  Waiters  should  not  speak 
to  each  other  unless  it  is  positively  necessary. 

22.  The  proper  dress  for  a waiter  is  a dark  dress  coat  and  trowsers,  white 
vest  and  neck- tie.  A waitress  should  wear  a dark  dress  with  white  apron  and 
cap.  Both  should  w^ear  light  slippers  or  boots,  and  make  as  little  noise  as 
possible. 

28.  If  menus  or  bills  of  fare  are  used,  place  one  at  each  plate. 

24.  If  you  have  to  lay  a table  for  dinner  a la'Russe,  the  dessert  is  always 
placed  on  the  table  first,  and  should  be  placed  tastefully  around  the  center 
of  flowers.  Note  diagram  for  demi-Russe  dinner ; the  dessert  is  placed  round 
the  edge  of  the  table,  that  is  if  the  hostess  desires  to  have  it  thus  placed.  In 
a dinner  a la  Russe,  the  joints  or  dishes  are  brought  in  one  at  a time  and 
carved  by  the  host,  and  as  he  carves  each  plate,  the  waiter  hands  it  on  a sil- 
ver tray.  In  the  demi-Russe,  the  joints  are  carved  before  being  placed  before 
the  server.  (See  diagrams.)  In  some  dinners  the  joints  or  dishes  are  carved 
and  handed  to  the  guests  for  them  to  help  themselves.  In  this  case  each 
guest  must  be  furnished  w'ith  a plate  which  of  course  must  be  placed — with 
napkin  and  roll  on  it — when  the  cloth  is  laid.  The  waiters  should  confer  with 
the  cook  and  the  cook  with  the  housekeeper  or  hostess,  and  have  all  these 
points  settled  beforehand.  If  there  is  a butler  it  devolves  on  him  to  see  all 
these  points  settled  and  to  instruct  his  assistants.  Sometimes  the  host  or' 
hostess  will  direct  each  guest  to  his  seat,  sometimes  the  butler  will  do  it,  and 
sometimes  the  waiters. 

SUMMER  BREAKFAST  FOR  TEN.  (TWO  RESERVED  PLATES.) 

First  Course^  Melon. — When  table  is  laid  (see  diagram)  guests  enter  and 
take  seats.  Waiters  place  tea  and  coffee  urns  and  bring  melon.  The  gentle- 
men serving  asks  each  guest  if  he  will  be  helped  to  melon.  If  the  answer  be 
yes,  waiter  receives  plate  from  server  and  hands  to  guest,  exchanging  plates 
and  returning  empty  plate  to  server,  who  places  melon  on  it  for  another  guest 
and  so  on.  As  soon  as  all  are  served,  or  have  refused  a second  helping,  the 
waiter  removes  the  remains  of  the  melon,  and  replaces  it  with  dish  for  second 
course.  The  lady  at  the  head  of  the  table  asks  each  guest  to  partake  of  tea, 
coffee, or  chocolate.  If  any  accept,  waiter  receives  it  and  hands  to  guest.  Ask- 
ing guests  to  take  tea,  etc.,  in  first  course,  is  a mere  matter  of  form,  as  it  is 
seldom  taken  until  second  course,  still  the  question  must  be  asked,  and 
waiter  ready  to  serve  it. 

Second  Course. — In  the  place  oi  meion  a dish  of  fish — fried  perch,  smelts, 
trout,  or  whatever  is  selected.  Tariare  Sauce  is  a proper  accompaniment. 
I>ecorate  dish  of  fish  with  shrimps  or  olives  cut  in  half,  or  with  little  bunches 


HOW  TO  GIVE  A DINNER. 


96S 


of  parsley  with  shrimp  placed  on  it.  Waiters  also  remove  first  set  of  des- 
sert plates  used  for  melon,  and  replace  with  a size  larger,  medium  breakfast 
plates.  The  waiter  then  receives  a supply  of  fish  from  the  person  who  serves 
it,  hands  to  the  guests,  receiving  empty  plates,  and  helping  guests  to  what 
accompaninments  they  desire.  Another  waiter  asks  if  guest  will  take  coffee 
or  tea,  and  supplies  it  from  party  serving  it.  Potatoes  are  handed  round 
(with  either  meat  or  fish.)  If  two  kinds,  present  one  in  each  hand  for  guest 
to  help  himself. 

Third  Course. — Young  chicken  sauced  with  cream  gravy,  surrounded 
with  potatoes  a la  neige.  Waiter  remove  fish  of  second  course,  and  replace 
with  young  chicken,  then  attends  to  wants  of  guests  as  in  second  course,  re- 
membering to  ask  each  if  he  will  take  tea  or  coffee  ; also  asking  each  if  he  will 
take  his  tea  or  coffee  warmer.  Clean  plates  same  size  as  second  course,  must 
be  supplied  for  each  guest  . 

Fourth  Course. — Poached  eggs  on  toast,  or  anchovy  toast.  Waiter  removes 
chicken  and  replaces  it  whhffish  of  poached  eggs,  and  furnishes  clean  plates. 
Party  serving  asks  each  guest  if  he  can  help  him,  and  waiters  serve  as  in  the 
other  cases.  Lady  dispensing  tea  or  coffee  asks  guests  if  they  will  be  helped 
to  warmer  tea  or  coffee.  If  any  one  accepts,  waiter  hands  clean  cup  and  sau- 
cer from  the  sideboard  to  the  lady  serving  and  then  hands  it  to  the  guest. 
If  milk  is  asked  for  be  procures  from  the  sideboard  and  hands  to  the  guest. 
Waiter  also  watches  the  guests  and  supplies  them  with  hot  cakes,  receiving 
a dish  of  hot  ones  for  that  purpose  every  five  minutes,  handing  dish  of  cakes 
to  guest  who  helps  himself. 

Fifth  Course. — Little  fillets  of  porter  house  steak  with  tomatoes  a la  ma- 
yonnaise. Waiter  puts  on  steak  in  place  of  plate  of  poached  eggs,  and  caters 
to  wants  of  guests  as  before.  While  guests  are  eating  this  course,  the  wait- 
ers, or  an  extra  waiter,  as  quietly  as  possible  relieve  the  table  of  the  castor, 
pickles,  sauces,  dressing  and  butter.  But  not  till  the  last  moment  must  this 
be  done,  at  the  same  time  asking  guests  if  they  require  more.  The  dessert, 
or  rather  fruit,  sixth  course,  is  then  brought  in  and  placed  where  the  steak 
was,  arranging  as  quickly  as  possible,  the  service  remaining  on  the  table  in 
neat  order,  removing  each  guest’s  plate,  and  again  furnish  dessert  plates. 
At  a signal  from  lady  at  head  of  table,  the  waiter  hands  around  fruit  to 
guests,  each  guest  supplying  himself,  unless  the  person  before  serving  the 
other  dishes,  serves  this,  in  which  case  waiter  supplies  each  as  before.  Wait- 
er also  supplies  each  guest  with  tea  or  coffee,  and  hands  around  cake,  bis- 
cuit, etc.  At  this  course  a finger  glass  should  be  supplied  to  each  guest. 

Sixth  Course. — Peaches  quartered,  sweetened  or  half  frozen  or  any  fruit 
decided  upon.  Carry  our  the  instructions  given  in  the  fifth  course.  In  some 
breakfasts  order  is  reversed,  and  fruit  is  served  in  first  course  only.  In  this 
case  various  fruits  are  placed  on  table,  and  allowed  to  remain  till  end  of 
breakfast  so  that  guests  may  partake  at  any  time.  In  first  class  breakfasts 
fruit  forms  the  first  and  last  course,  but  waiters  should  be  instructed  before- 
hand, which  plan  is  to  be  followed. 


964 


HOW  TO  GIVE  A DINNER. 


INSTRUCTIONS  TO  WAITERS. 

First,  air  breakfast  room  well.  See  that  everything  has  been  dusted. 
Next  lay  cloth — whatever  color  and  style  is  fashionable — and  see  that  it  is 
free  from  wrinkles  and  creases.  See  that  all  articles  for  table  are  perfectly 
clean.  Place  cruets,  castors,  sauces,  salts,  spoon,  sugar,  syrup  and  every- 
thing that  will  not  hurt  to  stand  a while,  in  proper  position  on  table.  (See 
diagram.)  Then  a few  minutes  before  calling  breakfast,  add  cake,  sweet  bis- 
cuit, muffins,  etc.  Just  before  guests  begin  to  come,  add  flowers  and  salad. 
Note  position  of  tea  tray  containing  tea  cups,  also  urns.  Note  also  plate  at 
head,  which  will  show  you  what  cutlery  and  plate  to  put  near  that  plate. 
Place  a glass  for  each  plate  for  water.  Place  the  plates  bottom  up  with  nap- 
kin on  the  top  of  each.  At  end  of  table  where  dishes  are  served,  (see  diagram 
for  melon,)  place  plate,  cutlery  and  glasses  for  other  guests,  also  carver  and 
carving  fork  and  knife  rest,  also  a flsh  trowel,  also  a few  reserve  plates.  In 
event  of  an  accident  they  are  handy.  If  any  guest  requires  bread,  supply  it 
from  sideboard.  A small  roll  should  be  placed  in  each  guest’s  napkin.  If 
this  is  not  done,  place  two  plates  of  rolls  on  table,  or  pass  a dish  of  rolls.  If 
any  one  requires  a second  roll  he  asks  for  it.  In  no  case  place  napkins  in 
glasses,  but  on  plates  whether  rolls  are  in  them  or  not.  As  soon  as  guests 
are  seated,  ask  if  they  prefer  milk  or  water.  If  water.  All  from  the  water 
jug.  If  milk,  All  from  the  milk  pitcher.  Both  jug  and  pitcher  are  kept  on 
sieeboard.  It  is  necessary  to  have  a waiter  or  some  one  at  head  to  see  that 
all  table  appointments  are  correct,  and  that  other  waiters  discharge  their  du- 
ties. It  is  also  necessary  to  have  some  party  outside  breakfast  room,  to  whom 
inside  waiters  may  hand  removes  from  table  and  from  whom  anything  may 
be  received  for  table.  Waiters  should  be  as  quiet  as  possible  and  always 
should  go  to  left  of  guest.  There  should  be  an  understanding  beforehand  be- 
tween cook,  waiters  and  lady  of  the  house,  so. that  each  may  know  what  is 
coming  next,  and  how  to  manage.  It  is  a head  waiter’s  place  to  see  that  salt 
is  dry  and  free  from  lumps,  that  castors  are  in  good  condition,  and  that  oil, 
mustard,  and  salad  dressing  are  fresh,  etc.  For  further  instructions  refer  to 
diagram,  and  explanation  of  courses,  and  articles  on  dinners  and  breakfasts. 
It  is  best  to  place  two  or  three  extra  cups  and  saucers  in  tray  to  use  in  an 
emergency.  The  sugar,  milk  and  cream  should  be  placed  before  hostess  if 
she  is  to  dispense  them,  or  she  may  simply  dispense  tea  and  coffee,  in  which 
case  the  sugar  and  cream  should  be  passed  by  waiters,  or  put  within  reach 
so  that  guests  may  help  themselves.  Chocolate  will  be  served  from  side- 
boards, if  at  all,  and  sugar  and  cream  handed  with  it  for  those  who  wish. 

Bemember  the  diagram  is  given  only  to  show  the  lay  of  the  table,  num- 
ber of  dishes,  also  their  nature,  but  these  may  be  changed  to  suit.  This  does 
not  show  separate  courses,  but  in  case  you  wish  to  serve  in  courses,  proceed 
as  for  dinner,  observing  the  same  rules.  Lunches  are  similar  to  dinners ; 
dishes  are  less  in  number,  and  not  of  nature  to  require  much  carving.  It  is 
usual  to  have  a larger  variety  of  pastries,  fruits  and  confections  than  for 


HOW  TO  GIVE  A DINNER. 


9G5 


dinner.  In  fact  some  lunches  consist  of  sweets  only.  In  winter  lunch  dia- 
gram two  spaces  are  left  (Fig.  2 and  17)  to  be  filled  in  with  anything  choice  in 
the  way  of  preserved  fruits,  fruit  jelly,  etc.  In  summer  lunch  No.  13,  14,  15 
and  16,  are  for  same  purpose,  fruit  being  more  plentiful  then. 

From  the  others  it  is  easy  to  make  up  supper.  These  differ  so,  it  is  diffi- 
cult to  lay  down  a plan,  as  some  make  them  a late  dinner,  some  dinner  and 
supper.  To  lay  supper  is  an  easy  thing.  The  pages  of  this  book  tell  how  to 
provide  a good  supper  whether  for  family  or  for  party.  In  lunches  the  plan 
known  as  demi-Russe  has  been  adopted,  a compromise  between  the  entire 
Russian,  and  the  old-fashioned  English  plan  of  placing  every  dish  upon  the 
table.  The  diagram  calls  for  two  carvers  as  servers,  one  at  head  and  one  at 
foot  of  table,  that  is  to  say  if  dishes  are  carved  by  persons  sitting  at  these  places. 
Place  the  dishes  before  them  whole,  tastefully  garnished.  If  dishes  are  first 
carved  and  then  placed  before  them,  they  will  simply  serve  them.  In  either 
case  place  plates  as  shown  in  diagram,  and  as  fast  as  each  plate  is  supplied 
let  waiter  hand  to  each  guest.  Carving  knife  and  fork  must  be  placed  on 
table  to  serve  with,  to  be  ready  in  case  carving  is  imperfectly  done.  Incase 
cook  or  mistress  wishes  to  display  her  skill  in  dishing  up,  garnishing  dish, 
whatever  it  may  be,  waiter  locates  it  in  proper  place  on  table,  and  while 
company  are  engaged  in  talking,  quietly  removes  it  to  sideboard,  and  quickly 
and  deftly  carves  it,  garnishing  as  well  as  time  will  allow,  then  replace  in  its 
original  place.  Another  plan  is  to  carve,  arrange  nicely  on  the  dish,  and  then 
garnish  tastefully,  and  place  before  carver  or  server.  If  tea,  coffee  or  choco- 
late are  included  in  lunch,  serve  from  sideboard.  Waiters  generally  have  less 
to  do  at  lunch  than  at  dinner  because  guests  are  under  less  constraint  and  of- 
tener  help  each  other. 

WHAT  ARE  PROPER  DISHES  FOR  EACH  COURSE. 

I.  Five  small  raw  oysters  (on  the  deep  shell,  so  as  to  retain  the  liquor; 
just  before  dinner,  and  put  at  each  plate  before  the  dining  room  is  opened. 
A colored  doiley  may  be  put  under  them  on  each  plate.  If  oysters  are  not  in 
season,  substitute  small  round  clams.  If  weather  is  quite  warm,  let  them 
rest  on  each  plate  in  a bed  of  cracked  ice.  In  either  case  quarter  of  a lemon, 
on  each  plate.  With  clams,  red  pepper  within  reach. 

II.  After  fish,  either  patties,  bits  of  roast,  each  supporting  a single  se- 
lected mushroom  and  saturated  with  brown  sauce,  or  some  similar  trifle. 
Whatever  is  used,  let  but  one  be  put  on  each  plate,  and  before  the  plates  are 
handed. 

III.  If  you  have  more  than  one  meat,  let  the  first  be  relatively  substan- 
tial, and  the  second  oi  a lighter  character.  For  instance — afiletot  beef  might 
be  followed  by  chicken  croquettes,  or  a boiled  turkey,  (which  is  never  really 
good  without  oyster  sauce, ) by  mutton  chops  with  almond  paste.  Other  things, 
even,  let  a roast  proceed  a boil,  but  put  the  heavier  thing  first. 

iV.  After  meats,  entrees,  such  as  croquettes,  calves’  brain,  deviled  kidv 
neys,  oysters,  fried  or  boiled,  etc. 


966 


HOW  TO  GIVE  A DINNER. 


V.  With,  game,  jelly ; though  true  epicures  don^t  take  it.  The  salad  is 
frequently  served  with  game,  though  for  those  who  wish  both  jelly  and  salad, 
this  is  awkward,  if  jelly  be  served. 

VI.  After  salad,  cheese,  either  one  of  medium  strength,  or  two  kinds — 
one  pungent,  one  mild.  The  waiter  had  best  hand  both  kinds  together  (pre- 
viously cut  up)  for  the  company  to  choose.  With  this,  hard  crackers. 

VII.  If  you  elaborate  your  dessert  let  the  order  be ; pastry  or  pudding, 
ices,  fruits,  nuts,  and  raisins,  bon-bons. 

yill.  Black  coffee  in  small  cups.  Sugar  (in  lumps)  to  be  passed  separate- 
ly,. This  is  quite  frequently  reserved  till  the  ladies  have  left  the  table  and 
serv’’ed  to  them  in  the  parlor,  and  to  the  gentlemen  in  the  dining-room. 

GENERAL  HINTS. 

Never  let  two  kinds  of  animal  food  or  two  kinds  of  pastry  be  eaten  from 
the  same  plate ; make  a fresh  course  of  each. 

Cards  on  plates,  bearing  the  names  of  company,  so  as  to  seat  them  with 
reference  to  congeniality,  are  very  important.  For  host  or  hostess  to  mar- 
shal them  after  they  are  in  the  dining-room  is  not  nearly  so  easy  as  for  them 
to  marshal  themselves  by  the  cards,  and  the  host  and  hostess  are  sure,  in  the 
confusion  of  the  moment,  to  get  people  placed  exactly  as  they  did  not  intend 
tc  have  them. 

Cut  pieces  of  bread  about  four  inches  long,  two  wide  and  two  thick,  and 
always  place  a piece  beside  each  plate  in  setting  the  table. 

Finger  bowls  are  to  be  passed  after  pastry  on  plates  with  doileys  between 
the  plates  and  the  bowls.  The  plates  are  to  be  used  for  fruits  and  nuts,  if 
there  are  any.  If  none  are  handed,  the  finger  bowl  will  not  be  taken  from 
the  plate.  The  finger  bowl  should  be  filled  about  one -third,  contain  a slice 
ot  lemon,  and  in  very  warm  weather,  a bit  of  ice. 

It  is  well  to  have  a dish,  at  one  side,  independent  of  any  that  may  oe  on 
the  table,  with  grapes  cut  into  small  bunches,  and  oranges  and  large  fruits 
halved.  If  fruit  decorating  the  table  is  to  be  used,  let  it  be  removed  and  pre- 
pared before  it  is  passed. 

Avoid  cane  seats  in  a dining  room.  Where  fine  fabrics  and  laces  are 
kept  on  them  so  long  a time  continuously  (longer  than  anywhere  else)  they 
play  havoc. 

One  plate  should  be  at  each  seat.  The  raw  oysters  or  clams,  on  a separ- 
ate plate,  are  placed  on  the  first  plate.  So  with  the  soup.  The  first  plate  is 
exchanged  for  the  plate  with  the  fish.  Always  have  a stock  of  plates  in  re- 
serve sufficient  for  all  the  courses  and  properly  warmed.  The  most  decorated 
plates  are  best  enjoyed  about  the  time  of  salad  or  cheese  and  at  dessert. 

It  saves  the  waiter’s  time  to  start  with  at  least  two  each  of  forks,  knives 
and  teaspoons  by  each  plate.  It  is  not  bad  to  have  three.  One  knife  should 
be  of  silver,  for  the  fish.  Silver  knives  are,  of  course,  essential  for  fruit. 

Napkins  are  never  supposed  to  appear  a second  time  without  washing. 
Hence  napkin  rings  are  domestic  secrets  and  not  for  compan} 


HOW  TO  GIVE  A DINNER. 


967 


Always  change  knives  and  forks,  or  spoons  with  plates.  As  before  stated 
it  is  well  to  start  with  two  or  three  relays  of  implements  by  the  plates. 

Don’t  have  over  two  vegetables  with  a course.  Let  them  be  offered  to- 
gether on  the  same  waiter.  At  a large  dinner  you  can  have  two  varieties  of 
the  same  course,  i.  e.,  two  soups,  two  fish,  two  meats,  etc.,  letting  the  waiter 
offer  the  guest  a plate  of  "each  at  the  same  time,  the  guest  choosing  between 
them. 

Everybody  is  always  out  of  bread ; prevent  it  if  you  can. 

One  good  waiter  is  worth  much  more  than  two  poor  ones. 

Two  hours  is  long  enough  to  serve  any  dinner  that  Christians  ought  to 
eat ; three  hours  and  a half  is  too  long. 

The  host  goes  in  first  with  the  lady  whom  he  seats  at  his  right.  The 
hostess  goes  in  last  with  the  gentleman  whom  she  places  at  her  right. 

The  worst  torture  that  survives  the  inquisition  is  a bad  formal  dinner*  A 
worse  torture  than  any  known  to  the  inquisition  is  any  formal  dinner  (the 
better  the  dinner,  the  worse  the  torture}  inefficiently  served. 


968 


DINNER  OF  FIVE  COURSES. 

For  ten  persons,  with  12  covers  laid,  two  extra  covers  are  for  accidental  guests. 
FIRST  COURSE— SOUP. 

1.  For  dessert  or  fancy  pieces.  For  dessert  or  fancy  pieces. 

2.  Cake,  pastry,  biscuit  or  sweets.  Cruet. 

For  dessert  or  fancy  pieces.  8.  Chutney. 

4=  For  dessert  or  fancy  pieces.  9.  'Worcestershire  sauce. 

ft  Cake,  pastry  or  sweets.  ID.  Oyster  crackers  and  soda  crackers. 

■When  wines  are  to  be  served,  four  decanters  containing  the  different  kinds  should 
be  placed  between  the  crackers  and  toast,  another  may  stand  at  the  right  of  the 
host,  and  still  another  at  right  of  hostess.  The  wine  glasses,  one  for  each  kind,  ar© 
placed  near  the  glass  of  water  (see  diagram,;  at  the  plate  of  each  guest. 


y69 


DINNER— DESSERT. 

FIFTH  COUBSE. 

1.  Cake.  5.  Nuts.  9.  Pastry. 

2.  Jelly.  6.  Raisins.  10.  Spoons. 

3.  Sugar.  7.  Bon  bons  and  confectionery.  11.  Nut  Crackers. 

4.  Cup  custard.  8.  Fruit.  12.  Blanc  Mange. 

13.  Crystallized  fruits.  14.  Here  might  be  puddings  to  be  handed  round  from  the  tablet 
Center  figure  to  be  flowers  or  sugar  oruamem  or  pyramid. 


1.  Soft  shell  crahs. 

2.  Frozen  peaches  or  fruits. 

3.  Pickles. 

4.  Cruet. 

5.  Ice  cream. 

8.  Roast  lamb 


SUMMER,  LUECH. 
FOR  8 COVERS. 

7.  Brown  bread. 

8.  White  bread. 

9.  Cakes. 

10.  Candies. 

11.  Fancy  biscuit. 

12.  Chocolate  bon  bons. 
lu  the  center— floAvers. 


14. 1 Fruit  or  what  else 

15.  f you  may  choose. 

16.  J 

17.  Green  pease. 

18.  Fried  Egg  plant. 


971 


1. 

2. 

3. 

4. 

5. 

6. 

S. 

9. 


WINTER  LUNCH. 


FOR 

VepretaLle  salad. 

Preserved  fruit,  fruit  jelly,  etc. 
Oyster  salad. 

Potato  puffs, 

Small  fancy  cakes. 

Cruet, 

Bon  bons. 

Baked  Sweet  potatoes*. 

Bread. 


8 COVERS. 

10.  Brown  bread. 

11.  Macaroni  v,^ith  tomato  sauce. 

12.  Nuts. 

13.  Pickles. 

14.  Preserved  fruits. 

7i.5.  Charlotte  russe. 

It.  Cabinet  pudding  with  cream  sauco. 

17.  Preserved  fruit,  fruit  jelly,  etc. 

18.  Braised  beef. 

■n  'I'.p  o center. 


972 


DINING-ROOM  DOTS, 


DiisrmG--ROOM:  dots. 


Fancy  Wood  Table  Mats. — There  are  three  sizes  of  table  mats,  made  of 
stripes  of  light  and  dark  wood,  alternating,  and  fastened  to  strong  felt  cloth. 
When  not  in  use  they  may  be  rolled  up  into  a very  small  compass.  The  wood 
is  very  highly  polished,  and  the  effect  is  very  pretty.  They  are  very  cheap, 
durable  and  decidedly  ornamental. 

Place  for  Extension  Leaves. — In  arranging  a sink  in  the  butler’s  pantry  or 
€hina  closet,  the  bottom  part  of  it  may  be  utilized  for  the  leaves  from  an  ex- 
tension table,  thus  saving  room  and  having  them  easy  of  access  also. 

Crumb  Brush  and  Pan. — The  cut  repre- 
sents a very  neat  and  convenient  crumb 
brush  and  pan  for  cleaning  the  table  of 
crumbs  after  each  course.  A neat  table  is 
one  of  the  accompaniments  of  a good  dinner, 
and  the  debris  of  one  course  should  be  re- 
moved before  the  next  makes  its  appear- 
ance. The  curved  form  of  the  brush  makes  it  easy  to  gather  up  the  crumbs 
and  sweep  them  into  the  pan. 

Closets  for  Bread  and  Cake  Box. — Under  the  serving  board  placed  at  side 
of  china  closet  a nice  cupboard  may  be  made  for  the  bread  and  cake  box, 
and  with  the  small  board  used  for  cutting  bread  etc.,  placed  on  top  of  the  box 

and  the  bread  knife  in  a little  drawer  un- 
der the  board,  either  bread  or  cake  can 
be  served  very  easily. 

Knife  and  Spoon  Box. — Knives  and  spoons 
ought  to  be  daily  counted  and  put  away  in  box 
kept  for  the  purpose.  The  cut  represents  a 
strong  box,  made  of  tin  japanned  on  the  out- 
side, an  apartment  on  one  side  for  knives  and 
forks  and  on  the  other  for  spoons.  The  lids  fit 
closely  and  are  held  in  place  by  a hasp.  This  in- 
sures their  keeping  dry  and  free  from  dust,  a matter  of  considerable  import- 
ance to  the  tidy  housewife. 

A Convenient  Crumb  Cloin.—An  easy  way  of  having  a crumb  cloth  is  to 
take  two  widths  of  the  wide  heavy  striped  linen,  work  button  holes  on  one 
side  of  the  width,  and  place  buttons  on  one  side  of  the  other  width  to  corres- 


DINING-ROOM  DOTS. 


973 


pond  with  the  holes  ; then  the  widths  can  he  placed  under  the  table  one  at  a 
time  and  buttoned  down  the  center.  Made  in  this  way  one  can  easily  handle 
it  alone,  lifting  one  leg  of  the  table  and  slipping  the  width  under  and  so  on, 
making  it  unnecessary  to  lift  whole  table  at  once ; or  a cloth  can  be  made  in 
shape  of  a hollow  square  and  buttoned  on  one  corner  and  slip  in  in  same  way. 


Dish  Warmer — This  engrav- 
ing represents  a dish-warmer 
made  of  wire  with  feet  so  arrang- 
ed that  it  may  be  set  on  a stove. 
Nothing  spoils  a good  breakfast 
or  dinner  so  eiiectually  as  cold 
plates,  but  when  placed  in  the 
oven  to  heat  they  are  very  likely 
to  be  left  too  long,  and  get'too  hot 
or  if  fine  wares,  are  ruined  by 
overheating.  vVith  this  heater 
there  is  Ro  danger  of  over  heating,  or  injury.  This  may  also  be  used  as  a 
dish  drainer,  and  is  equal  to  the  best  made  especially  for  the  purpose. 

Tea-table  Ornament. — Two  goblets,  or  any  pretty  glass  dishes,  heaped 
with  lumps  of  ice,  with  a border  of  geranium  or  anj^  green  leaves,  make  a nice 
decoration  for  the  ends  of  the  table. 


Inexpensive  Napkin  Rings.— piece  of  canvas  size  of  napkin  ring,  only 
larger,  so  that  when  stitched  together  one  end  may  overlap  the  other,  and  be  cut 
in  points  or  scollops.  Work  canvas  with  beads,  worsted  or  silk,  as  fancy  may 
dictate,  leaving  space  for  first  name  or  initials.  Line  canvas  with  silk-covered 
cardboard  and  bind  edges  with  bright  ribbon  to  harmonize  with  embroidery. 

Paper  Cases. — These  are  very  much  used  now  for  Cheese  Ramakins,  Bis. 
cult  Glaces,  Charlottes,  Souffles,  Ice-creams,  etc.,  and  are  either  round  or 
square.  Make  the  round  ones  as  follows  : Procure  half  a dozen  sheets  of  cap 
or  fine  book  paper  not  ruled,  and  make  a pattern  for  the  paper  cases  by  fitting 
a band  of  paper  to  the  outside  of  a very  small  tumbler,  such  as  is  used  for 
Roman  punch,  or  some  similar  small  shape.  The  band  of  paper,  when  cut 
to  fit,  will.  Torm  a curve.  Cut  as  many  such  pieces  as  are  needed  from  the 
sheets,  fringe  a (juarter  of  an  inch  or  less  in 
depth.  Make  some  corn  starch  paste  very 
stiff,  and  paste  the  ends  of  the  bands  togeth- 
er, forming  cup  shapes,  then  cut  around  the 
edges,  press  the  fringed  bottom  edges  of  the 
cup  on  the  paste,  the  fringe  bent  outward, 
and  the  cups,  when  dry,  are  ready  for  use. 

For  the  square  ones  cut  paper  on  the  eight 
dark  lines,  then  crease  on  every  dotted  line. 

At  each  end  turn  parts  lettered  A over  that 
lettered  B,  so  that  the  lines  c rest  on  the 
line  d,  and  one  A overlaps 'the  other.  Now 
fold  parts  b up  against  backs  of  part  A,  and 
fold  inward  those  parts  of  edges  which  pe 
lightly  shaded,  and  fold  outward  those  wfflich 
are  heavily  shaded.  When  this  is  finished 
stick  the  parts  of  the  box  together  with  white  of  an  egg  mixed  with  a little 
f.our.  This  makes  a perfect  box,  and  with  a little  practice  one  may  become 
quite  an  adept.  By  tracing  a copy  of  diagram  one  obtains  a good  model  one 
quarter  of  size  case  should  be. 

Dustless  Side-board. — Where  one  df)es  not  care  for  any  fancy  display  of 
silverware  and  china,  the  best  arrangement  for  a side-board  is  one  built  in 




A 

c 

I 1 A 

1 1 

1 ” 

•a  Bj  tU  « 

Square  Paper  Cases. 


074 


DINING-ROOM  DOTS. 


side  of  dining  room,  with  the  upper  part  divided  off  into  divisions,  some  with 
shelves  and  some  without  according  to  the  height  of  articles  to  be  put  away, 
and  each  enclosed  with  a glass  door.  In  this  way  the  silver  makes  a 
pretty  ornament  for  the  room  and  yet  is  protected  from  dust.  The  back  of 
divisions,  or  little  cupboards,  may  be  lined  with  canton  flannel  of  any  color 
desired.  The  lower  part  of  sideboard  will  be  utilized  for  the  china,  having 
little  cupboards  with  shelves  according  to  heighth  of  dishes,  and  wooden 
doors.  Between  upper  and  lower  cupboard  can  be  drawers  for  the  small  sil- 
ver, and  it  is  nice  for  spoons,  knives  and  forks  that  do  not  come  in  boxes  to 
have  some  of  the  drawers  made  as  a Handy  Drawer  in  the  following  manner ; 
have  them  two  and  a half  or  three  inches  deep  and  about  a foot  and  a half 
wide  ; cut  a heavy  pasteboard  to  fit  inside  and  on  it  glue  wooden  strips  made 
as  in  boughten  boxes  with  grooves  for  the  two  ends  of  knives  to  flt  in,  also  a 
single  strip  for  table  spoons,  forks,  etc.,  having  in  one  drawer  two  strips  for 
knives  and  one  for  teaspoons ; in  another  two  single  strips  for  tablespoons ; in 
another  two  for  forks,  etc.  Cut  a piece  of  colored  canton  flannel,  allowing 
for  the  amount  that  will  be  taken  up,  when  fitted  into  the  grooves,  and  place 
over  the  pasteboard,  having  first  covered  the  wooden  strips  with  glue,  then 
press  the  flannel  well  into  each  groove  and  place  the  article  intended  for  each 
place  in  it,  letting  it  remain  there  till  it  ts  dry.  Proceed  in  this  way  till  all 
are  finished  and  when  dry  put  them  in  their  places. 


GARNISHES  AND  SAUCES. 


975 


G^ARlSriSHES  AISTD  SAUCES. 


To  garnish  a dish  well,  adds  very  much  to  its  appearance  and  the’  most 
simple  ^sh  can  be  made  to  appear  much  more  appetizing  when  served,  if 
surrounded  by  bits  of  parsley,  or  other  green,  or  slices  of  eggs,  pickles  or 
vegetables.  The  time  taken  to  garnish  is  only  a moment  or  two  if  the  gar- 
nish be  a simple  one,  which  should  be  the  kind  to  use  for  every  day,  and  one 
will  be  well  repaid  for  so  doing.  Of  course  a more  elaborate  garnish  takes 
longer  time  in  its  preparation.  Care  must  always  be  exercised  in  regard  to 
the  quantity  used,  as  a too  heavy  garnishing  really  spoils  the  appearance  of 
the  dish.  When  vegetables  are  used  for  the  garnishing  the  garnishing  knife 
flutes  them  nicely,  adding  much  to  their  appear- 
ance. There  are  different  ways  of  garnishing,  but 
the  general  method  is  to  surround  the  article  and  in  giving  the  garnishes, 
imless  otherwise  mentioned,  that  is  what  is  meant.  The  article  is  sometimes 
placed  on  a bed  of  the  garnish  and  sometimes  around  a 
mound  of  the  latter,  as  illustrated,  the  chops  surround- 
ing a mound  of  potatoes.  In  serving  meats,  game,  etc., 
it  is  also  very  essential  to  have  an  appropriate  sauce  or  chops  and  Potatoes, 
gravy  which  will  enhance  the  flavor  of  the  article  served,  and  we  give  below 
such  garnishes  and  sauces  as  have  been  used  by  different  cooks  very  success- 
fully, and  one  can  select  such  as  they  wish  or  can  prepare  most  easily.  We 
also  give  some  ways  of  preparing  some  of  the  garnishes  although  most  of 
them  are  given  in  the  first  part  of  book. 


GARNISHES  FOR  CREAMS,  ETC. 

For  Bavarian  Creams. — Whipped  cream. 

For  Blanc  Mange. — Boiled  custard. 

For  Lemon  Jelly. — Parsley  or  smilax  with  a few  forget-me-nots. 

For  Ice-cream. Whipped  cream ; a meringue  or  a spray  or  two  of  sm^ 

lax  with  some  delicate  roses. 

For  Orange  Jelly. — Parsley,  smilax  or  m3ui;le  with  garden  pinks. 


976 


GARNISHES  AND  SAUCES. 


For  Coffee  Jelly, — Some  green  with  bright  red  geraniums  or  roses. 

For  Dishes  of  Fruit. — Geranium  leaves ; rose  leaves ; holly  leaves  and 
berries,  artificial  leaves  may  be  used  but  natural  leaves  are  much  preferred. 
Where  it  is  possible  it  is  nice  to  have  the  leaves  of  the  fruit,  as  of  apples, 
pears,  peaches,  plums,  etc. 


GARNISHES  FOR  FISH. 

For  Eels. — Croutons ; fried  parsley. 

For  Boiled  Cod. — Croutons ; potato  patties. 

For  Haddock. — Parsley  and  slices  of  lemon  alternated. 

For  Baked  Fish. — Sliced  hard  boiled  eggs,  or  egg  pyramid. 

For  Boiled  White  Fish. — Spoonfuls  of  grated  horse-radish  or  potato  balls. 
For  Boiled  Fish. — Slices  of  lemon. 

For  Fried  Fish. — Parsley,  celery,  or  lettuce. 


GARNISHES  FOR  MEATS. 

Boiled  Bacon. — Tufts  of  cooked  cauliflower  or  brussels  sprouts ; or  place 
on  a bed  of  boiled  beans. 

For  Boiled  Beef. — Sliced  cooked  carrots,  or  turnips,  whole  glazed  onions. 
Corned  Beef  (hot  or  cold)’  the  same,  or  parsley,  or  the  tender  inside  leaves  of 
lettuce. 

For  Broiled  Beefsteak. — Ringed  potatoes,  squares  of  fried  mush,  sliced 
cucumbers,  grated  horse-radish,  or  place  a poached  egg  on  each  piece. 

For  Fried  Cold  Corned  Beef. — Pickled  gherkins. 

For  Minced  Beef  (or  any  meats.) — Croutons. 

For  Boast  Beef. — Pieces  of  asparagus ; potato  balls ; glazed  onions ; or  tufts 
of  scraped  horse-radish. 

For  Stewed  Beef. — ^Tufts  of  cooked  cauliflower  or  braised  cabbage ; force- 
meat or  potato  balls. 

For  Boiled  Tongue^  hot  or  cold. — Potato  roses ; tufts  of  parsley  and  garnish 
the  root  with  a paper  frill . 

For  Meat  Hash. — Pickled  cucumbers  sliced  in  inch  slices  crosswise ; crou- 
tons or  poached  eggs.  For  White  Meat  Hash,  fried  oysters,  or  slices  of  lemon. 
Game  Hash,  chopped  sweet  herbs. 

For  Baked  Ham. — Border  of  beans  and  garnish  knuckle  with  a paper  frill. 

For  Boiled  Ham. — Aspic  jelly ; parsley,  or  flowers  cut  from  vegetables. 

For  Broiled  Ham. — Poached  eggs. 

For  Fried  Ham. — ^Fried  eggs. 

For  Breast  of  Lamh. — Cooked  green  pease  around  or  under  it. 

For  Boiled  Leg  of  Lamh. — Cooked  cauliflower  or  spinach. 

For  Braised  Loin  of  Lamh. — Place  on  a bed  of  either  stewed  pease,  spinai^ 
or  cucumbers. 


GARNISHES  AND  SAUCES. 


977 


Stewed  Lamb. — Strew  over  with  stewed  mushrooms  or  green  pease. 

For  Lamb  Chops. — Crisped  parsley  or  place  around  a mound  of  mashed 
potatoes. 

For  Lamb  Cutlets. — Place  chopped  spinach  in  center. 

For  Lamb  Sweet-breads. — Water  cresses ; tufts  of  parsley. 

For  Boiled  Neck  of  Mutton. — Slices  of  cooked  carrots  and  turnips  alter- 
nated ; or  parsnips  may  he  used  instead  of  the  latter. 

For  Braised  Leg  of  Mutton. — Braised  onions. 

For  Roast  Neck  or  Loin  of  Mutton. — Little  mounds  of  red  currant  jelly. 
Saddle  of  Mutton,  same.  Shoulder  of  Mutton,  braised  onions  or  baked  toma- 
toes. 

For  Boiled  Leg  of  Pork. — Sliced  cooked  carrots,  turnips  or  parsnips.  For 
^alt  pork,  same. 

For  Roast  Pork  or  a Roast  pig. — Baked  apples. 

For  Pork  Chops. — Pickled  gherkins,  or  slices  of  large  pickled  cucumbers 
cut  crosewise.  For  Fried  Salt  Pork,  same,  or  fried  apples.  For  Fried  Sausa^ 
ges,  same  as  above. 

For  Pigs  Feet  Souse. — Slices  of  lemon. 

For  Roast  Veal. — Sliced  lemon  and  force-meat  balls  alternating. 

For  Stewed  Veal. — Force-meat  balls ; rashers  of  broiled  ham  or  bacon 
curled  and  fried ; boiled  carrots  sliced  alternated  with  mounds  of  green  pease 
or  mushrooms  and  sorrel  or  spinach  and  endive. 

For  Veal  Cutlets  or  Chops. — Tender  leaves  of  lettuce;  olives;  breadef\ 
rashers  of  pork,  or  same  as  for  stewed  veal. 

Veal  Sweet-Breads. — On  a bed  of  cooked  pease. 

For  Boiled  Calfs  Head. — Egg  balls,  or  fringed  celery. 

For  Calfs  Liver. — Sliced  lemon  and  force-meat  balls,  or  sliced  pickled 
beets. 

For  Calfs  Tongue.— Mpic  jelly. 

For  Curries. — Border  of  boiled  rice. 


GARNISHES  FOR  POULTRY,  ETC. 

For  Boiled  Chicken. — Sliced  hard  boiled  eggs  alternated  with  tufts  of 
celery  or  lettuce  leaves ; or  place  on  a bed  of  rice. 

Fricasseed  Chicken. — Little  mounds  of  boiled  rice. 

Fried  Chicken. — Fried  oysters  alternated  with  lemon  points. 

Roast  Chicken. — Crisped  parsley  or  stuffed  tomatoes. 

For  Boiled  Turkey. — Same  as  for  boiled  chicken. 

For  Roast  Turkey. — Fried  oysters,  or  sausages ; force-meat  balls ; water- 
cresses.  , ' 

For  Game. — Fresh  or  preserved  barberries ; little  mounds  of  currant  jelly ; 
sliced  oranges  or  lemons. 


978 


GARNISHES  AND  SAUCES. 


For  Boiled  Babbit. — Eashers  of  fried  ham  or  bacon ; or  parsley. 

For  Roast  Rabbit. — A border  of  mashed  potato ; force-meat  balls ; water- 
cresses,  or  slices  of  lemon. 

GARNISHES  FOR  SALADS. 

Cabbage  Salad. — Sliced  hard  boiled  eggs. 

Chickem  Salad. — Sliced  hard  boiled  eggs  in  rings  alternated  with  sliced 
pickled  beets  or  cucumbers. 

Lobster  Salad. — Same  as  above  with  the  coral  arranged  with  it;  or  sur- 
round with  a border  of  cray  fish.  # 

Meat  Salad. — Tender  leaves  of  lettuce. 

Sardine  Salad. — Small  whole  sardines,  or  lemon  points. 

Salmon  Salad. — Nasturtiums,  buttercups,  or  wild  roses. 

GARNISHES  FOR  VEGETABLES. 

For  Artichokes.— parsley. 

For  Asparagus  on  Toast. — Sliced  hard  boiled  eggs. 

For  Fried  Stewed  Cabbage. — Fried  sausages. 

For  Stewed  Celery. — Croutons. 

For  Greens. — Slices  of  tongue  or  hard  boiled  eggs. 

For  Fried  Potatoes. — Parsley  sprinkled  with  grated  lemon  peel. 

For  Stewed  Peas. — Breaded  rashers  of  bacon  fried.  This  is  also  nice  for 
oeans,  poached  or  fried  eggs,  and  hashed  calf’s  head. 

There  are  many  other  things  that  will  prove  a pretty  garnish  that  we 
have  not  mentioned,  such  as  carrot  leaves,  borage  flowers,  horse-radish 
flowers,  nasturtium  flowers,  and  many  of  the  wild  flowers  may  be  used.  In 
fact  one  can  use  almost  anything  by  exercising  good  judgment  as  to  amount 
used,  and  how,  w hen  and  where.  A rule  for  those  most  often  used  would  be 
as  follows : Parsley  is  the  universal  garnish  for  all  kinds  of  cold  meats,  poul- 
try, fish,  etc.  Horse-radish  for  roast  beef,  and  slices  of  lemon  for  roast  veal 
and  calf’s  head.  Carrots  in  slices,  for  boiled  beef,  hot  or  cold.  Sliced  beet, 
or  hard  ' '"Ted  egg  for  cold  meat  and  boiled  beef.  Mint  either  with  or  with- 
out parsley  for  roast  lamb,  either  hot  or  cold.  Pickled  gherkins,  capers  or 
boiled  onions,  for  boiled  meats  and  stews.  Lemon  points  for  all  salads. 
Pickled  cucumbers  sliced  crosswise  for  fried  pork,  sausage,  hash,  etc.,  and 
olives  are  very  much  used  for  all  meats  by  those  who  like  them.  Where  the 
garnishis  an  eatable  one,  a piece,  slice,  or  bit  is  to  be  served  with  the  article, 
but  if  not,  it  remains  on  the  dish.  We  give  also  some  of  the  preparations  of 
different  gai'nishes. 

Lemon  Points. — Cut  fresh  lemons  in  thin  slices,  and  divide  these  slices 
into  four  parts.  They  are  used  as  a garnish  for  salads  and  made  dishes. 


GARNISHES  AND  SAUCES. 


979 


Egg  Pyramids. — Take  the  inside  of  a stale  loaf,  cut  into  small  pyramids 
with  flat  tops,  and  on  the  top  of  each  pyramid  put  rather  more  than  a table- 
spoon of  white  of  egg  beaten  to  a stiff  froth.  Over,  this  sprinkle  finely  chop- 
ped parsley  and  fine  browned  bread-crumbs.  Arrange  these  on  the  napkin 
round  fish,  one  green  and  ono  brown  alternating. 

Fried  Bread  for  Borders. — Fry  slices  of  bread  cut  in  any  fanciful  shape. 
When  quite  crisp,  dip  one  side  into  beaten  white  of  an  egg  mixed  with  a little 
flour,  and  place  it  on  the  edge  of  the  dish.  Continue  in  this  manner  till  the 
border  is  completed,  arranging  the  sippets  a pale  and  a dark  one  alternating. 

Bashers  of  Porh. — Cut  breakfast  bacon  very  thin  and  in  strips  three  oi 
four  inches  long.  Fry  only  long  enough  to  become  transparent,  or  thoroughly 
hot;  if  cooked  crisp  it  is  ruined.  Serve  as  a garnish,  or  laid  over  beefsteak, 
roast  beef,  game,  etc.  For  Breaded  Rashers  of  Pork,  dip  or  roll  the  strips  in 
fine  bread  crumbs  (some  first  dip  in  beaten  egg)  then  brown  nicely.  May 
be  used  as  a garnish  for  meat  or  vegetables. 

Sorrel  Garnish. — Sorrel  is  best  plucked  between  May  and  October.  Take 
about  three  pounds  of  sorrel,  very  fresh  and  green.  Pick  it  nicely  over  and 
remove  all  stalks  ; wash  well  and  drain  well  on  a wire  sieve.  Chop  it  for 
quite  twenty  minutes.  Now  put  into  stewpan  that  will  hold  about  two  quarts, 
tablespoon  of  flour  and  one  and  a half  of  butter.  Stir  over  the  fire  for  three 
or  four  minutes,  and  then  put  in  gill  of  broth,  and  eight  minutes  after,  an- 
other gill.  Again  stir  over  the  fire  for  twenty  minutes.  Beat  up  three  or 
four  eggs  with  one  half  gill  of  milk,  in  a basin ; pour  these  on  the  sorrel,  stir- 
ring rapidly  for  several  minutes.  It  is  then  ready  to  use  as  a garnish 

Potato  Patties. — Beat  or  pate  to  a fine  flour  three-fourths  pound  of  mealy 
potatoes,  making  it  moist  with  a small  quantity  of  milk ; put  this  with  two 
ounces  of  butter,  melted  and  beaten  to  a cream.  Boil  one-half  pint  of  milk, 
stir  it  quite  boiling  into  the  potato,  and  stir  it,  holding  it  above  the  fire,  into 
a very  smooth,  fine  paste.  Stand  it  on  the  hob  and  mix  into  it  two  well- 
beaten  eggs.  Let  the  mixture  become  cook  when  beat  it  up  with  the  yolks 
of  four  eggs ; whisk  the  whites  of  these  to  a froth,  and  stir  it  carefully  into 
the  batter.  Butter  little  patty  shells  fill  with  the  batter  and  bake  a deep 
gold  yellow  in  a quick  oven.  Serve  hot  as  a garnish  with  any  nice  dish  of 
fish,  fowl,  etc.  Or  butter  patty  pans  and  sprinkle  grated  crumbs  over  them, 
then  fill  with  the  batter  and  bake  as  above. 

Paper  Frills  and  Rosettes  for  Cutlets,  etc. — Cut  a sheet  of  note  paper  into 
strips  two  inches  wide,  and  double  them  lengthwise,  to  make  the  width  of  a 
knife  blade.  Cut  the  double  edge  into  fringe  a quarter  inch  deep.  Move  the 
edges  of  the  paper  one  higher  than  the  other,  and  the  fringe  will  be  bowed 
out  instead  of  lying  flat.  Fasten  the  edge  that  way  with  a touch  of  corn  starch 
paste  made  very  stiff.  Then  roll  the  fringed  pieces  of  paper  around  a pencil 
and  fasten  the  end  with  paste — if  to  be  slipped  over  the  ends  of  frogs^  legs ; 
but  if  for  cutlet  bones,  or  ham,  or  tongue  ends  of  uncertain  size  wrap  them  just 
before  serving,  and  a touch  of  the  very  stifif  paste  will  hold  them  in  place. 

To  Garnish  a Ham  or  Tongue. — Make  a glaze  as  directed  in  meats,  and 
when  it  softens,  as  glue  would  do,  brush  over  the  meat,  ham  or  tongue ; then 
when  cold  beat  some  fresh  butter  to  a white  cream,  and  with  a kitchen  syringe 
or  a stiff*  paper  funnel  trace  any  design  wdshed  on  the  glazed  surface ; this 
makes  a very  handsome  dish,  and  if  the  ham  has  been  properly  boiled  will  be 
very  satisfactory  to  the  palate.  Or  the  glaze  may  be  omitted  and  butter,  lard, 
or  savory  jelly  used,  with  syringe  cone  or  funnel,  just  as  icing  is  used,  as  de- 
scribed in  Ornamental  Icing  in  first  part  of  book. 


980 


GAENISHES  AND  SAUCES. 


To  use  butter  or  lard  treat  it  in  the  same  manner  as  directed  for  jelly  in 
same  place  so  as  to  get  it  just  soft  enough  to  pass  through  the  cone.  Be  very 
careful  not  to  get  it  too  soft  or  it  will  not  stand.  In  warm  weather  add  a little 
flour  to  stiffen  it,  but  not  too  much,  or  it  will  not  pass  through  the  cone  ; when 
ready  All  cone  with  it,  same  as  for  icing,  and  use  in  same  manner.  This  or- 
namentation, with  the  addition  of  a little  parsley,  and  a cut  root  flower  or  so, 
completes  the  operation  of  decorating  the  above  named  articles.  They  are 
sometimes  further,  or  even  altogether  decorated  or  garnished  with  “sippets,” 
(small  pieces)  cut  diamond  or  triangular  form,  and  consisting  of  toasted  bread, 
aspic  jelly,  etc. ; but  this  style  of  garnishing  is  usually  adopted  only  by  those 
who  are  not  competant  to  decorate  or  garnish  with  butter,  lard  or  savory  jelly, 
and  who  are  not  able  to  cut  their  own  root  flowers.  Boot  flowers  are  usually 
cut  in  the  forms  of  roses,  tulips,  dahlias,  etc.,  from  white  and  yellow  turnips, 
beets,  and  carrots,  and  the  edges  of  the  leaves  are  usually  tipped  with  pink 
color,  such  as  liquid  “cochineal.”' 

To  cut  root  flowers,  wash  the  roots,  and  for  say  a rose,  take  a good  shaped 
turnip,  pare  it,  cut  in  the  proper  shape,  then  with  a sharp  pocket  knife 
(French  root-flower  cutters  may  be  had  of  dealers  in  confectioner’s  supplies,) 
go  all  aroqnd  the  bottom  edge,  so  ; then  repeat  this  operation,  so 

,-CXX,  bringing  the  second  cuts  between  the  first,  and  holding  the  back  of 
the  knife  blade  from  you  and  the  edge  towards  you.  This  causes  the  cuts  to 
meet  at  the  bottom,  and  then  by  holding  the  knife  point  down,  and  running 
it  all  round  inside  the  cut  the  piece  falls  out,  leaving  the  leaves  separate  and 
distinct.  Continue  this  until  you  reach  the  center,  so  . A little  prac- 
tice will  assist  you  in  this  particular,  and  you  will  soon  be  able  to 

make  other  flowers,  as  the  principle  is  the  same;  when  the  flowers  are  cut 
tip  the  edges  as  above. 

A Fan  Garnish. — Slice  small  cucumbers  very  thin  lengthwise,  leaving 
them  attached  at  the  stem  end  and  spread  them  open  like  little  fans.  These 
are  nice  for  sliced  cold  meat,  chicken  or  turkey. 

A Fancy  Garnish. — Cut  the  breast  of  a cooked  turkey  or  chicken  into 
slices  and  then,  either  with  a round  tin  cutter  or  a knife,  cut  these  again  into 
shapes  all  alike.  Make  some  mayonaise  sauce  with  lemon  juice,  and  mix 
with  it  nearly  an  equal  amount  of  aspic  jelly,  barely  W'armed  enough  to  melt 
it.  Cover  the  slices  of  turkey  in  the  dish  with  the  mayonaise-jelly  and  set  the 
dish  in  the  refrigerator.  Mince  a slice  of  cooked  blood-beet  extremely  fine 
and  some  parsley  the  same.  Take  up  the  slices  of  turkey  on  a fork,  when  the 
jelly  is  set  quite  firm,  and  dip  the  underside  lightly  into  the  minced  parsley, 
and  then  into  the  beet,  making  them  appear  sprinkled  over,  and  place  as  a 
garnish  to  a Turkey  Galatine,  or  they  make  a nice  dish  in  themselves, garnish- 
ing the  edge  with  green,  such  as  shred  lettuce. 

SAUCES  FOR  FISH. 

For  Baked  Fish. — Egg  or  vinegar  sauce. 

F6r  Boiled  Fish. — Hollandaise  or  liver  sauce. 

SAUCES  FOR  MEATS. 

For  Boiled  Beef. — ^Apple,  asparagus,  chilli,  cucumber,  curry  or  horse- 
radish sauce. 

For  Boast  Beef. — Celery,  drawn  butter,  lobster,  mushroom,  mustard, 
parsley,  pickle  and  shrimp  sauce. 


GARNISHES  AND  SAUCES. 


981 


For  Stewed  Beef. — Oyster  sauce. 

For  Fried  beefsteak. — Brown  onion  cream,  or  roux  sauce. 
For  Boiled  Tongue. — Tartar  sauce, 

For  Boiled  Lamb. — Anchovy  or  Hollandaise  sauce. 

For  Roast  Lamb. — Chestnut  or  mint  sauce. 

For  Boiled  Mutton. — Tomato  or  caper  sauce. 

For  Boiled  Veal. — Celery  sauce. 

For  Roast  Veal. — Mushroom  sauce. 

SAUCES  FOR  POULTRY  AND  GAME. 

For  Boiled  Chicken, — I'read  or  cauliflower  sauce. 

For  Roast  Chicken . — Gi  flet  sauce. 

For  Boiled  Turkey. — Len  on  or  oyster  sauce. 

For  Ducks. — Olive  sauce. 

For  Roast  Ooose. — Apple  sauce. 

For  Game. — White  or  rice  sanceo 


982 


THE  KITCHEN. 


THE  KTTCHEIS". 


It  is  almost  impossible  to  give  any  directions  except  in  a general  way  re- 
garding the  kitchen,  as  there  is  an  endless  variety  of  plans  and  arrangement. 
In  no  other  room  in  the  house  are  sunlight  and  fresh,  pure  air  so  indispen- 
sable as  in  the  room  where  the  most  important  work  must  be  done.  A long, 
narrow,  dark  kitchen  is  an  abomination.  Always  furnish  the  kitchen  well 
first,  and  if  there  is  anything  left  to  spend  on  the  parlor,  well ; if  not  the  money 
]ias  been  spent  well.  The  main  point  is  to  systematize  every  thing,  group- 
ing such  things  as  belong  to  any  particular  kind  of  work.  For  instance,  in 
baking  do  not  go  to  the  china  closet  for  a bowl,  across  the  kitchen  for  the  flour, 
and  to  the  farther  end  of  the  pantry  or  store-room  for  an  egg,  when  they  may 
j ust  as  well  be  within  easy  reach  of  each  other.  Study  and  contrive  to  bring 
order  out  of  the  natural  chaos  of  the  kitchen,  and  the  head  will  save  the 
hands  and  feet  much  labor. 

If  kitchen  floors  are  made  of  hard  wood  and  simply  oiled  two  or  three 
times  a year,  no  grease  spot  is  made  when  grease  drops  on  them,  for  it  can 
be  easily  wiped  up— carpet  or  paint  is  not  advisable.  Neither  paint  nor  paper 
the  y/alls,  but  once  a year  apply  a coat  of  the  good  old-fashioned  whitewash. 
Do  not  have  the  woodwork  painted ; the  native  wood  well  oiled  and  varnish- 
ed lightly  is  much  the  best  finish.  A wide,  roomy  dresser  is  a great  con- 
venience ; it  should  have  two  wide  closets  below  and  three  narrow  ones  above, 
Vv  ith  a row  of  drawers  at  top  of  lower  closets.  Here  should  be  kept  all  pots 
and  kettles,  sauce-pans,  waffle-irons,  kitchen  crockery,  tins,  etc.,  all  arrang- 
e^d  and  grouped  together  so  as  to  be  convenient  for  use.  If  possible,  have 
good  sliding  doors,  and  at  the  top  and  bottom  of  same  have  a narrow  sliding 
panel  for  a ventilator,  which  should  be  used  when  sweeping.  By  this  ar- 
rangment  every  article  of  kitchen  ware  can  be  enclosed  from  the  dust  and  flies. 
A well  appointed  sink  is  a necessity  in  every  kitchen,  and  should  be  near 
both  window  and  range,  so  as  to  have  light,  and  also  be  convenient  to  the  hot 
water.  It  should  be  provided  Avitli  a ‘‘grooved”  and  movable  dish  drainer, 


THE  KITCHEN. 


983 


set  so  as  to  drain  into  the  sink.  Always  have  bracket  or  wall  lamps,  if  not 
lighted  by  gas,  placed  at  each  end,  or  at  the  sides,  so  that  the  room  may  be 
w^ell  lighted  in  the  evening.  When  possible,  a long  table  at  the  end  of  the 
sink,  and  so  close  to  it  that  water  can  not  drip  between,  on  which  to  dress 
vegetables,  poultry,  game,  etc.,  saves  time  and  steps;  and  the  good  light, 
which  is  a necessity  in  this  part  of  the  room,  leaves  no  excuse  for  slighted  or 
slovenly  work.  Under  this  table  may  be  two  drawers,  with  compartments 
in  one  for  polishing  materials,  chamois  leather,  and  articles  needed  for  scour- 
ing tin  and  copper,  and  a paring  knife,  which 
j is  so  essential  in  preparing  fruit  and  vegetables, 

rariiig  ixuife.  oue  with  SL  guard  on  the  side,  as  illustrated, 

prevents  taking  too  thick  a paring ; and  in  the  other,  articles  for  keeping  «Jie 
stove  or  range  in  order.  Back  of  the  table  and  sink,  the  wall  should  be  ceiled 
with  wood  for  three  feet  above  them,  and  here  may  be  put  up  galvanized  iron 
hooks  and  nails  on  which  to  hand  basting-spoons,  ladles,  cooking  forks  and 
spoons,  the  chopping  knife,  cake  turner,  etc.  A set  of  drawers  close  at  hand 
for  salt,  pepper  and  spices  is  also  convenient.  There  should  never  be  bevel, 
beading,  or  moulding  on  kitchen  window  or  door  frames ; and  the  kitchen 
door,  leading  to  the, dining  room,  should  be  faced  with  rubber  and  closed  with 
a not  too  strong  spring.  Not  less  than  three  large  windows  are  desirable  in 
every  kitchen,  which  should  be  cheerful,  pleasant,  well  ventilated,  conven- 
ient and  clean. 


In  houses  of  the  old  style  there  was  either  no  pantry  at  all,  the  kitchen 
being  furnished  with  a dresser  and  shelves,  or  it  was  merely  a small  closet  to 
hold  the  articles  in  less  common  use.  In  modern  houses  the  pantry  is  next 
in  importance  to  the  kitchen,  and  it  should  be  so  arranged  as  to  accommodate 
all  the  appliances  used  in  cookery,  as  well  as  the  china,  glass-ware,  cutlery, 
and  other  articles  for  the  table,  unless  a dresser  is  used  as  before  suggested. 
In  arranging  a plan  for  a building,  the  pantry  should  receive  careful  consid- 
eration, as  next  in  importance  to  the  kitchen ; it  should  be  sufficiently  roomy, 
open  into  both  the  dining-room  and  the  kitchen,  and,  in  order  to  “save  steps,’* 
should  be  as  convenient  to  the  range  or  cooking  stove  as  circumstances  will 
allow.  The  window  should  be  placed  so  as  to  give  light  without  infringing 
on  the  shelving ; the  shelves  should  be  so 
arranged  as  to  not  obstruct  the  light  from 
it ; the  lower  ones  should  be  two  and  a half 
feet  from  the  floor,  and  two  feet  or  more  in 
width,  and  project  about  three  inches  be- 
yond the  closets  and  drawers  below ; and 
the  part  near  the  window,  where  there  is  no 
shelving, may  be  used  for  moulding  and  pre- 
paring pastry,  and  such  other  work  as  may 
be  most  conveniently  done  here,  and  if  possible,  have  a Baking  Cupboard  (as 
described  in  Kitchen  AVrinkles)  near  by  with  drawers,  etc.,  for  spices,  but  if 
that  cannot  be  had  a Spice  Back,  which,  as  illustrated,  is  a neat  rack  in  which 


Spice  Rack. 


984 


THE  KITCHEN. 


is  set  small  cans  containing  spices.  The  handle  is  a convenience  and  can  be 
set  near  when  cakes  are  to  be  made,  and  when  the  work  is  done  it  may  be  set 
away  on  a shelf  or  in  a cupboard  until  needed  again,  or  some  prefer  a Spice 
Cabinet,  being  a little  bureau,  about  a foot  high  with  each  drawer  labeled 
outside,  “nutmegs,”  “cloves,”  etc.,  and  put  up  near  where  cakes,  etc.,  are 
made.  It  costs  little,  probably  about  two  dollars,  and  is  a great  eonvenience. 
•Other  shelves,  or  a china  closet,  should  be  provided  for  the  china  and  other 
table  furniture  in  every  day  use.  The  pantry  should  have  an  abundance  of 
drawers  and  closets,  of  which  it  is  hardly  possible  to  have  too  many — the  up- 
per closets  for  the  nicer  china  and  glass,  and  the  lower  ones  to  hold  pans  and 
other  cooking  utensils  in  less  frequent  use.  The  drawers  are  for  table-linen 
and  the  many  uses  the  housekeeper  will  find  for  them.  If  psssible  the  window 
should  be  on  the  north  side,  but  in  any  case  it  should  have  blinds  for  shade, 
and  a wire  gauze  or  other  screen  to  keep  out  flies. 

Use  a cloth  to  wash  potatoes.  It  is  no  trouble  to  keep  one  for  this  pur- 
pose, and  it  will  save  hands  and  time.  Some  prefer  a small  brush  which  you 
can  buy  for  the  purpose.  Tie  a strip  of  muslin  on  the  end  of  a round  stick, 
and  use  to  grease  bread  and  cake  pans,  gem-irons,  etc.  Have  two  large 
pockets  in  your  kitchen  apron,  and  in  one  of  them  always  keep  a holder.  A 
piece  of  clam  or  oyster  shell  is  much  better  than  a knife  to  scrape  a kettle, 
should  you  be  so  unfortunate  as  to  burn  anything  on  it.  If  you  use  a copper 
tea-kettle,  keep  an  old  dish  with  sour  milk  and  a cloth  in  it,  wash  the  kettle 
with  this  every  morning  after  washing  ofi*  with  clear  water,  and  it  will  always 
look  bright  and  new.  Cut  a very  ripe  tomato  and  rub  over  a kitchen  table 
to  remove  grease.  The  juice  will  also  remove  stains  from  and  whiten  the 
hands. 


CARE  OP  LAMPS. 

If  you  use  oil,  buy  the  best  kerosene.  To  test  it,  place  a small  quantity 
in  a tea-cup,  and  if  it  does  not  easily  ignite  when  brought  into  contact  with 
a lighted  paper  or  match,  it  is  good ; poor  oil  will  ignite  instantly.  Keep  oil 
in  a ten-gallon  can,  with  a faucet  at  the  lower  part,  so  as  to  draw  off  into  a 
smaller  can  or  lamp-filler ; set  the  large  can  in  a cool,  dark  place ; keep  all 
the  articles  used  for  cleaning,  filling  and  trimming  lamps  by  themselves.  For 
these  purposes  provide  an  old  waiter  (to  hold  the  things),  a lamp-filler,  pair 
of  scissors  or  a lamp-trimmer,  box  of  wicks,  soap,  washing  soda,  and  several 
soft  cloths  and  towels,  also  a wire  hairpin  with  which  to  keep  open  the  vent 

in  the  burner,  and  what  is 
known  as  a cork  puller  is  use- 
ful for  holding  cloths  used  in 
cleaning  lamp  chimneys  as 
well  as  pulling  corks  form  bottles  and  using  dish  cloths  in  hot  water.  When 
lamps  need  an  extra  cleaning,  add  one  tablespoon  soda  to  a quart  of  water,  be- 
ing careful  that  none  of  the  bronze  or  gilding  comes  in  contact  with  th»  soda. 


Cork  Puller. 


THE  KITCHEN, 


985 


The  wick  should  touch  the 'bottom  of  the  lamp  and  be  trimmed  square  across. 
When  the  wick  becomes  too  short  to  carry  up  the  kerosene,  and  you  have  not 
time  to  put  in  a new  wick,  a piece  or  cotton  rag  pinned  on  below  will  prove  a 
good  feeder.  Whe  burners  of  lamps  become  gummy  and  prevent  the  wicks 
moving  freely,  boil  them  up  in  suds  over  the  fire  for  a short  time,  and  they 
will  become  entirely  clean  and  work  well.  Lamps  may  become  encrusted  in- 
side with  settlings  from  the  oil,  and  ordinary  washing  will  not  remove  it. 
Take  soap-suds  and  fill  the  lamp  about  one-third  full,  then  put  in  a little  sharp 
sand,  and  shake  vigorously.  A few  minutes  will  remove  every  particle  of 
settlings.  Always  fill  the  lamps  every  day  and  in  the  day-time  ; never  fill  a 
lamp  after  dark  near  a lighted  lamp.  When  lighting  a lamp  turn  the  wick 
up  slowly  so  that  the  chimney  is  gradually  heated.  When  taking  a lamp 
from  a warm  room  into  a cold  one,  first  turn  down  the  wick ; do  not  fill  too 
full,  as  the  heat  expands  the  oil  and  drives  it  out  making  the  lamp  dirty  and 
dangerous.  Never  light  or  burn  an  almost  empty  lamp,  as  the  empty  space 
is  nearly  always  filled  with  a very  explosive  gas.  Before  putting  out  a lamp 
turn  it  down  until  the  wick  is  below  the  top  of  tube ; as  if  left  above  it  the  oil 
gradually  works  out  through  the  wick  and  runs  down  over  the  burner  and 
lamp.  Turn  the  flame  down  low,  and  wave  a fan,  book,  or  paper  across  the 
top  of  the  chimney.  Blowing  down  a chimney  is  very  dangerous  when  a lamp 
is  nearly  empty  and  turned  up  high.  Never  start  a fire  with  oil.  Buy  the 
best  lamp  chimneys  by  the  dozen.  The  best  are  cheapest,  and  it  is  conven- 
ient to  have  fresh  ones  on  hand  when  one  is  broken  at  an  inopportune  time 
A piece  of  sponge  fastened  on  the  end  of  a stick  or  wire  is  the  best  thing  with 
which  to  clean  lamp  chimneys.  Or,  hold  them  over  the  nose  of  the  tea-kettle 
when  the  kettle  is  boiling  furiously.  One  or  two  repetitions  of  this  process 
will  make  them  beautifully  clear.  Of  course  they  must  be  wiped  upon  a 
clean  cloth. 

Fill  new  tin  pans  with  boiling  water  (having  a little  soda  in  it,)  let  stand 
on  a warm  part  of  the  range  for  a while  wash  in  strong  soap-suds,  rinse,  and 
dry  well.  Scouring  tins  very  often  with  whiting  or  ashes 
wears  them  out ; if  properly  taken  care  of,  washed  in  suds 
and  thoroughly  dried,  they  will  not  need  scouring.  This 
same  care  is  needed  for  a steamer,  which  is  one  of  the 
nicest  utencils  in  which  to  cook  vegetables,  etc.,  for  many 
vegetables  are  much  better  when  steamed  than  when 
boiled  in  actual  contact  with  water.  Cabbage,  with  salt 
sprinkled  among  the  leaves  is  more  quickly  cooked  and  is 
much  more  delicate  than  when  boiled.  The  same  is  true 
of  puddings,  particularly  plum  puddidgs,  and  for  chickens 
potatoes,  rice,  and  indeed  for  nearly  every  thing  usually 
immersed  in  water.  The  outer  kettle  is  partly  filled  with 
boiling  water,  the  article  to  be  cooked  is  placed  in  the 
perforated  pan  and  set  in  the  other  and  a close  fitting 
cover  x>laced  over  both.  There  are  many  other  steamers  larger  and  more 
elaborate,  but  the  one  illustrated  is  a good  simple  one. 


986 


THE  KITCHEN. 


Boil  ashes  or  a bunch  of  hay  or  ^rass  in  a new  iron  kettle  before  cooking 
in  it;  scour  well  with  soap  and  sand,  Ihen  fill  with  clean  water,  and  boil  one 
or  two  hours.  To  remove  the  taste  of  wood,  first  scald  the  vessel  well  with 
boiling  water,  letting  the  w’ater  remain  in  it  till  cold ; then  dissolve  sal-soda 
or  soda,  (two  pounds  to  a barrel  of  water)  in  lukewarm  water,  adding  a little 
bit  of  lime  to  it,  and  wash  the  inside  of  the  vessel  well  with  this  solution ; 
afterward  scald  it  well  with  plain  hot  water,  and  rinse  it  with  cold  water  be- 
for  you  use  it.  Knives  for  the  table  should  never  be  used  to  cook  with  ; those 
for  the  former  purpose  may  be  a cheap  plated  set  for  every  day  use,  and 
should  be  kept  by  themselves,  and  never  be  allowed  to  be  used  in  the  kitch- 
en. A convenient  tray  is  the  one 


illustrated ; it  is  made  of  strong 
Japanned  tin  and  has  a separate 
apartment  for  knives,  spoons, 
and  forks,  and  teaspoons.  It  is 
also  provided  with  a convenient 
handle.  A wooden  box  may  be 
made  by  an  ingenious  man  in 


Knife  and  Spoon  Tray. 


the  same  form,  that  will  be  equally  convenient.  Lucky  is  the  woman  who  has 
the  ingenious  man  at  hand,  who  has  the  time  and  is  willing  to  spend  it  in 
fitting  up  the  kitchen  with  such  conveniences.  Never  place  a range  or  cook- 
ing stove  opposite  a door  or  window  if  it  can  be  avoided,  as  any  draft  will 
prevent  the  ov-en  from  baking  well. 

A necessity  in  the  kitchen,  because  a great  protection  against  clothes 
taking  fire,  is  a large  kitchen  apron  made  full  length  with  bib,  and  sleeves  if 
wished,  the  skirt  to  button  close  around  the  dress-skirt.  A wooden  mat 
(made  by  laying  down  six  pieces  of  lath  eleven  inches  long,  one  inch  wide, 
and  an  inch  apart,  and  nailing  across  these,  at  right  angles,  six  other  similar 
pieces  about  the  same  distance  apart)  is  a great  protection  to  the  kitchen 
table,  which  should  be  of  ash.  Hot  kettles  and  pans  from  the  stove  may  then 
be  set  on  this  without  danger,  as  the  construction  of  the  mat  secures  a cir- 
culation of  air  under  it.  It  is  the  ‘Tittle  foxes  that  spoil  the  vines”  in  the 
kitchen  as  well  as  elsewhere — the  neglect  of  little  things  causes  loss  of  timej 
patience  and  money. 


CARE  OF  FIRES. 


In  building  fires  concentration  is  the  important  point ; 1st,  the  fuel  should 
be  concentrated,  that  is,  put  together  in  a compact  heap,  and  2d,  in  a place  on 
the  grating  where  the  draft  can  be  concentrated  upon  it.  These  two  points 
gained  it  is  an  easy  matter  to  produce  a brisk  fire.  When  the  kindling,  which 
must  be  dry  and  in  sufficient  quantity,  is  well  started,  the  wood  or  coal,  as 
the  case  may  be,  is  so  put  on  that  the  draft  and  flame  will  pass  directly 
through  the  fuel.  In  starting  a fire,  all  depends  upon  having  the  conditions 
right,  and  great  loss  of  time,  and  even  patience,  is  incurred  if  they  are  not 


THE  KITCHEN. 


987 


pro'ST.ded.  Always  have  wood  in  the  box.  This  can  generally  be  done  with- 
out taking  special  time  for  it,  by  remembering  to  bring  some  in  when  you 
pass  the  wood-pile  without  anything  in  the  hands.  See  that  the  wood-box 
is  full  at  night,  and  the  shavings  and  kindlings  in  their  place.  In  the  morn- 
ing empty  the  ash-pan,  or  better  still,  clean  your  stove  or  range  at  night, 
This  can  always  be  done,  except  in  the  case  of  late  suppers.  When  supper 
is  ready,  and  there  is  no  further  use  for  the  fire,  open  the  oven  doors,  take  all 
the  covers  partly  off  the  holes,  and  by  the  time  the  supper  dishes  and  need- 
ful work  in  the  preparation  for  breakfast  is  done,  if  the  fire  has  been  properly 
attended  to,  the  stove  will  be  cool  enough  to  clean  out,  which  should  be 
thoroughly  done,  removing  all  the  ashes  or  cinders  from  every  part  of  it.  This 
is  a very  particular  v/ork,  as  the  corners  often  secrete  quite  an  amount  of 
ashes  that  must  be  removed  if  you  will  have  a perfectly  clean  stove.  Rap  on 
the  sides  of  the  pipes,  to  dislodge  the  soot  and  ashes  that  collect  there,  sweep 
all  over  with  a long  handled  brush-broom  and  the  stove  is  ready  to  receive 
the  shavings,  kindlings  and  wmod  for  the  fire. 

Where  there  is  a large  amount  of  cooking  to  be  done,  the  ashes  should 
be  cleared  from  under  the  slides  of  the  ovens  as  often  as  once  a week  in  large 
or  small  families  ; this  will  insure  the  oven  to  bake  well,  and  always  the  mme^ 
if  the  fire  is  properly  arranged.  In  removing 
ashes  it  is  very  important  that  they  are  not 
thrown  out  in  improper  places  or  placed  in 
wooden  receptacles  where  a fire  may  break  out 
from  spontaneous  combustion  or  from  some 
^‘unknown  cause.”  A proper  ash  barrel  is  made 
of  metal,  should  be  heavy  enough  so  as  not  to 
be  easily  bruised,  and  should  be  provided  with 
handles  for  convenient  removal.  The  one  rep- 
resented in  cut  when  used  for  coal  ashes,  is  pro- 
vided with  a sieve  which  holds  and  saves  all 
the  unconsumed  coal,  while  it  allows  the  ashes 
to  pass  through.  Never  on  any  account  use  ker- 
osene to  make  the  fire  burn  more  quickly.  In 
making  the  fire,  as  soft  wood  burns  more  quickly  than  hard,  it  is  better  to 
have  some  wfith  which  to  start  it,  filling  up  with  hard  wood.  If  the  wood  is 
good  and  properly  placed  you  will  have  a bright  clear  flame,  yielding  a great 
amount  of  heat  which  should  be  utilized  for  cooking  purposes,  by  so  arrang- 
ing the  draught  that  none  of  it  is  wasted.  This  can  only  be  done  by  one  who 
30  perfectly  understands  each  part  of  it  as  to  economize  in  the  use  of  fuel. 
The  fire  needs  constant  attention,  as  it  is  poor  economy  to  let  the  fire  go  par- 
tially out,  as  in  adding  fresh  fuel  the  heat  is  wasted  until  the  stove  and  oven 
are  again  heated  to  the  right  temperature  for  cooking. 

Fill  the  tea-kettle  full  of  water  and  place  on  the  stove,  and  if  the  fire  is 
good  it  will  boil  soon  enough  for  use,  and  every  time  water  is  used,  add  cold, 
so  as  to  keep  the  supply  good.  The  habit  is  almost  universal  to  put  a small 


988 


THE  KITCHEN. 


quantity  of  water  in  the  tea-kettle,  aiming  to  have  just  enough  for  certain 
things,  and  if  an  extra  demand  occurs  the  kettle  is  empty,  the  fire  is  out,  and 
the  delay  occasions  no  little  trouble  to  both  cook  and  mistress.  When  water 
has  been  made  to  boil  no  matter  what  is  cooking  in  it,  tlie  fire  may  be  very 
much  lessened,  as  but  little  heat  is  required  to  keep  it  boiling.  Rapid  boil- 
ing does  not  hasten  cooking,  and  the  articles  cooked  are  much  better  when 
boiled  slowly. 

For  general  use  copper  and  brass  cooking  utincils  are  not  the  best,  be 
cause  of  the  great  care  necessary  to  keep  them  clean  and  free  from  poisonous 
deposits,  a work  that  can  never  he  trusted  to  servants.  The  best  granite  iron 
is  both  safe,  light  and  easy  to  clean.  Care  should  be  used  in  cooking  in  tin 
vessels,  as  they  are  liable  to  be  affected  by  acids,  oils  and  salt,  but  not  to 
the  same  extent  as  copper.  For  all  ordinary  cooking  purposes,  if  tin  vessels 
are  kept  clean  and  free  from  rust,  no  injury  will  result.  A little  whiting  or 
dry  flour  may  be  used  to  polish  tin  with.  If  a kettle  is  to  be  used  for  cooking 
fish,  heat  it  first  over  the  fire  ; if  an  odor  arises,  it  needs  cleaning  as  above, 
heat  it  over  the  fire,  rub  well  with  brown  paper,  then  with  an  onion.  In 
washing  tin  ware  use  soft  water  and  soap,  and  wash  well,  rinse  with  hot  water, 
wipe  well,  and  put  on  the  hearth  or  stove  to  dry  perfectly ; once  a week  wash 
tin  ware  in  water  in  which  a little  sal-soda  has  been  dissolved ; take  the  suds 
for  the  pots  and  kettles  (if  not  hot  add  more  hot  water,)  and 
wash  and  rinse  thoroughly  on  the  inside.  To  wash  the  outside 
of  pots,  kettles  and  all  iron  ware,  place  in  a tub  or  large  dish- 
pan,  and  with  soap  on  cloth,  rub  them  briskly  and  hard;  if 
necessary  scrape  with  an  iron  spoon  or  old  knife  to  get  all  dirt 
off,  rinse  in  hot  water,  wipe,  and  place  on  stove  to  dry.  The 
best  thing  to  wash  them  with  is  a Vv'ire  dish-cloth.  If  kept 
scrupulously  clean,  oysters,  tomatoes,  and  even  some  delica- 
cacies  th.'/t  are  usually  cooked  in  porcelain  and  cranite  w'are,  may  be  cooked 


nicely  in 
Dish 
suds  and 
69  Hi 


Von. 


vashers  and  wipers  should  be  kept  very  clean,  being  washed  in 
Veil  rinsed  after  each  meal.  Avery  convenient  article,  upon  which 
to  hang  them  to  dry  is  the  umbrella  folding  rack  which  may  be 
placed  on  the  wall  near  the  stove.  When  in  use  it  presents  a 
a goodly  number  of  arms  on  which  to  hang  articles  to  be  dried, 
and  when  not  in  use  it  closes  up  modestly  and  occupies  no  useful 
space.  We  know  of  nothing  so  simple  and 
useful  for  the  purpose.  It  is  made  in  the 
very  best  manner,  and  with  fair  usage  will 
last  a life-time.  The  cut  on  the  left  rep- 
resents the  rack  folded  with  arms  dropped 
against  the  wall,  and  the  one  on  the  right 
the  same  spread  out  ready  for  use.  En- 
ameled ware  may  be  cleansed  by  filling  the  vessel  with  hot  w^ater,  with  soda 
dissolved  in  it — one  ounce  to  a gallon ; let  it  boil  twenty  minutes ; then  if  the 


Umbrella  Folding  Rack. 


THE  KITCHEN. 


989 


stain  does  not  all  come  off,  scour  with  fine  sand  or  brick  dust ; rinse  well  with 
hot  water  and  wipe  dry.  If  by  carelessness  or  accident,  while  making  chow- 
chow,  or  anything  else,  it  becomes  burned  on  the  porcelain  kettle,  empty 
immediately,  fill  with  water,  put  in  about  pint  of  wood  ashes  to  two  gallons 
of  water,  let  it  boil  twenty  minutes ; clean  with  sand  or  brick  dust  as  above, 
if  it  does  not  all  come  off.  In  either  case,  if  unsuccessful  the  first  time,  re- 
peat. To  clean  a brown  porcelain  kettle,  boil  peeled  potatoes  in  it.  The 
porcelain  will  be  rendered  nearly  as  white  as  when  new.  To  clean  silver  or 
plated  ware,  wash  in  clean  hot  water  or  lay  in  hot  soda  water  a few  minutes ; 
then  wipe  dry  with  a canton  fiannel  cloth,  and  polish  with  chamois  skin.  If 
silver  powder  is  used  for  cleaning  tarnished  spots,  care  must  be  taken  to  brush 
out  all  the  dust  from  the  chased  work  on  the  plate.  In  the  daily  use  of  silver, 
wash  in  clean  hot  water  and  wipe  dry  with  a canton  fiannel  cloth.  Never  use 
soap  in  washing  silver.  Steel  knives  and  forks  are  best  cleaned  by  being 
scoured  with  bath  brick,  but  some  good  “kitchen  maids’’  always  use  the 
common  brick  pulverized,  with  good  success.  Have  a properly  made  knife- 
box,  with  board  extending,  on  which  to  lay  the  knife  to  scour,  wet  a cloth  in 
hot  water  or  soft  soap  and  water, 
dip  in  the  dust  which  has  been 
previously  shaved  off ; then  rub  onion  Knife, 

briskly  and  hard  until  all  spots  are  removed ; wash  and  rinse  in  clean,  hot 
water  and  wipe  dry.  Never  put  a knife  into  hot  fat,  as  it  destroys  the  tem- 
per and  the  knife  is  useless.  It  is  nice  to  have  a separate  knife  for  peeling 

onions,  and  marked  so  that  it  can  al- 
ways be  kept  for  that  purpose.  One  is 
Potato  Knife.  also  nice  so  marked  for  potatoes,  and 

one  should  certainly  be  had  for  use  in  preparing  fish  as  the  taint  is  so  strong. 
A separate  pan  and  board  should  also  be  kept  for  this  purpose. 

The  sink  comes  in  for  special  notice.  Wash  it  daily  with  soap  and  water, 
rinse  with  clean  boiltng  water,  always  rinsing  in  hot  water  after  pouring 
suds  into  it.  This  can  not  be  insisted  on  too  strongly,  because  of  such  great 
importance  in  the  cleanliness  of  the  kitchen.  The  old  adage,  “A  time  for 
everything,”  applies  here.  On  Mondays  and  Thursdays,  during  summer, 
pour  hot  water,  containing  a little  chloride  of  lime,  or  some  copperas  water 
as  directed  in  Kitchen  Wrinkles,  into  the  drains,  and  every  Monday  in  win- 
ter. This  will  prevent  all  unpleasant  and  unhealthy  odors.  The  use  of  soda 
in  cleansing  our  wares  generally  diminishes  the  quantity  of  soap  needed.  As 
a general  thing,  too  much  soap  is  used  in  washing  dishes.  Many  good  house- 
keepers do  not  allow  soap  used  in  washing  dishes  at  all,  except  to  clean  tin 
and  iron  ware,  dish  cloth  and  sink.  In  cleaning  an  unpainted  kitchen  fioor, 
if  there  are  spots  of  grease  on  it,  put  some  soft  soap  (or  lye,  if  to  be  had)  in  a 
tin  cup,  kept  for  the  purpose ; place  on  the  stove  until  boiling  hot ; then  pour 
a little  on  each  spot  and  scour  with  ashes ; wash  the  floor  with  soft  hot  water, 
rinse  well,  and,  if  the  grease  is  not  out  the  first  time,  try  it  again  when  th« 
floor  needs  cleaning.  Always  remember  to  rinse  thoroughly,  changing  the 


990 


THE  KITCHEN. 


water  when  it  becomes  too  dirty.  In  cleaning  floors,  tables,  or  wood-work, 
remember  to  rub  always  with,  and  not  across,  the  grain  of  the  wood. 

The  breakage  of  dishes  in  some  houses  is  fearful.  There  are  very  few 
families  rich  enough  to  bear  it,  much  less  the  families  of  small  means  or  just 
a competence.  The  mother  is  sick  or  wearied  with  the  eare  of  the  nursery, 
and  cannot  see  to  the  putting  away  of  the  best  china,  which  has  been  used 
because  a friend  dined  with  them.  While  conversing  with  her  guest,  she 
hears  a crash  in  the  kitchen.  It  is  with  difficulty  she  remains  calm  until  the 
guest  departs,  when  she  finds  a cup  has  fallen  and  cracked  her  nice  tureen, 
and  broken  a nick  out  of  two  or  three  saucers  ; or  several  goblets,  set  in  a 
careless  place,  have  fallen  and  are  broken.  She  is  sick  at  heart,  for  it  was 
but  a few  weeks  before  she  had  spent  fifteen  or  twenty  dollars  to  replace  her 
broken,  cracked,  and  nicked  dishes.  Little  comfort  does  she  get  from  Brid- 
get, who  replies:  “La,  madam,  it  was  but  a few  of  your  dishes,  and  sure  I 
could  not  help  it.  I would  not  think  the  likes  of  ye  would  make  such  a fuss.” 
Every  wise  housekeejjer  will  distinguish  between  carelessness  and  accidents. 
To  correct  this  evil,  and  stop  the  great  waste,  the  only  way  is  to  have  help 
understand  they  must  replace  each  broken  or  nicked  dish  (for  a nick  in  a dish 
is  as  bad  as  a break),  or  have  the  cost  of  them  deducted  from  their  wages. 
This  will  cause  two  very  valuable  results.  The  servant  will  become  more 
careful,  which  will  add  much  to  the  comfort  of  the  mistress , and  wull  also 
form  a habit  of  carefulness  that  will  fit  her  to  become  a good  housekeeper. 
There  is  a dish  drainer  that  is  also  a help  in  pre- 
venting breakage,  as  the  dishes  can  be  easily  ar- 
ranged in  it.  It  consists  of  two  separate  articles 
— a neat,  strong  wire  basket,  with  a smaller  basket 
inside,  and  a drip  pan.  The  smaller  dishes  are  set 
on  edge  in  the  small  basket,  and  the  longer  ones 
between  the  two,  there  being  space  enough  below 
the  basket  in  the  drip-pan  to  hold  the  water  which 
drains  off.  To  rinse  with  hot  water  the  basket  with 
dishes  in  it  may  be  removed  from  pan  to  sink,  hot  water  poured  over  them, 
and  then  returned  to  pan  to  drain.  This  drain  was  the  invention  of  a woman, 
and  its  convenience  ^hows  that  she  knew  what  she  wanted. 

There  is  an  old  and  true  saying,  that  “a  woman  can  throw  out  with  a 
spoon  faster  than  a man  can  throw  in  with  a shovel.”  In  cooking  meats,  for 
instance,  unless  watched,  the  cook  will  throw  out  the  Tvater  without  letting 
it  cool  to  take  off  the  fat,  or  scrape  the  dripping  pan  into  the  swill-pail.  This 
grease  is  useful  in  many  ways.  Bits  of  meat  are  thrown  out  which  would 
make  good  hashed  meat  or  hash ; the  flour  is  sifted  in  a wasteful  manner,  or 
the  bread-pan  left  with  dough  sticking  to  it ; pie-crust  is  left  and  laid  by  to 
sour,  instead  of  making  a few  tarts  for  tea ; cake-batter  is  thrown  out  because 
but  little  is  left ; cold  puddings  are  considered  good  for  nothing,  when  often 
they  can  be  steamed  for  the  next  day,  or,  as  in  case  of  rice,  made  over  in 
other  forms ; vegetables  are  thrown  away  that  would  ’warm  for  breakfast 


THE  KITCHEN. 


991 


nicely ; dish-towels  are  thrown  down  where  mice  can  destroy  them ; soap  is 
left  in  water  to  dissolve,  or  more  used  than  is  necessary ; the  scrub-brush  is 
left  in  the  water,  pails  scorched  by  the  stove,  tubs  and  barrels  left  in  the  sun 
to  dry  and  fall  apart,  chamber-pails  allowed  to  rust,  tins  not  dried,  and  iron- 
ware rusted ; nice  knives  are  used  for  cooking  in  the  kitchen,  silver  spoons 
used  to  scrape  kettles,  or  forks  to  toast  bread ; cream  is  allowed  to  mold  and 
spoil,  mustard  to  dry  in  the  pot,  and  vinegar  to  corrode  the  casters ; tea, 
roasted  coffee,  pepper  and  spices  to  stand  open  and  loose  their  strength ; the 
molasses-jug  looses  the  cork  and  flies  take  posession ; vinegar  is  drawn  in  a 
basin  and  allowed  to  stand  until  both  basin  and  vinegar  are  spoiled  ; sugar 
is  spilled  from  the  barrel,  coffee  from  the  sack,  and  tea  from  the  chest ; dif- 
ferent sauces  are  made  too  sweet,  and  both  sauce  and  sugar  are  wasted ; dried 
fruit  has  not  been  taken  care  of  in  season,  and  becomes  wormy ; the  vinegar 
on  pickles  looses  strength  or  leaks  out,  and  the  pickles  become  soft ; potatoes 
in  the  cellar  grow,  and  the  sprouts  are  not  removed  until  they  become  worth- 
less ; apples  decay  for  want  of  looking  after ; pork  spoils  for  want  of  salt,  and 
beef  because  the  brine  wants  scalding ; hams  become  tainted  or  filled  with 
vermin,  for  want  of  the  right  protection ; dried  beef  becomes  so  hard  it  can’t 
be  cut ; cheese  molds  and  is  eaten  by  mice  or  vermin ; bones  are  burnt  that 
will  make  soap ; ashes  are  thrown  out  carelessly,  endangering  the  premises 
and  wasting  them ; servants  leave  a light  and  fire  burning  in  the  kitchen  when 
they  are  out  all  the  evening;  clothes  are  whipped  to  pieces  in  the  wind,  fine 
fabrics  rubbed  on  the  board,  and  laces  torn  in  starching ; brooms  are  never 
hung  up,  and  soon  spoil ; carpets  are  swept  with  stubs  hardly  fit  to  scrub  the 
kitchen,  and  good  new  brooms  used  for  scrubbing ; towels  are  used  in  place 
of  holders,  and  good  sheets  to  iron  on,  taking  a fresh  one  every  week ; table 
linen  is  thrown  carelessly  down,  and  is  eaten  by  mice,  or  is  put  away  damp 
and  is  mildewed ; or  the  fruit-stains  are  forgotten,  and  the  stains  washed  in ; 
table-cloths  and  napkfns  used  as  dish- wipers  ; mats  forgotten  to  be  put  under 
hot  dishes ; tea-pots  melted  by  the  stove ; water  forgotten  in  pitchers,  and 
allowedito  freeze  in  winter ; slops  for  cows  and  pigs  never  saved ; china  used 
lo  feed  cats  and  dogs  on ; and  in  many  other  ways  a careless  or  inexperienced 
housekeeper  wastes,  without  heeding,  the  hardearned  wages  of  her  husband. 
Economy  counts  nowhere  so  well  as  in  the  kitchen. 


Kitchen  W^rinkles. 


Tomatoes  are  nice  with  cream  and  sugar. 

Tea. — Keep  tea  in  a close  chest  or  canister. 
Caramel. — Always  stir  with  a wooden  spoom 


992 


KITCHEN  WRINKLES. 


Coffee. — Keep  cool  by  itself,  and  closely  covered 

Tea  Stains  can  be  removed  from  dishes  with  soda. 

Bread. — Keep  bread  or  cake  in  a tin  box  or  stone  jar. 

Nutmegs. — Always  grate  nutmegs  at  the  blossom  end  first. 

To  Warm  up  Soup. — Set  the  vessel  in  hot  water  and  heat  slowly. 

Red  Ants. — Scatter  branches  of  sweet-fern  where  they  congregate. 

Salt  Fish  are  quickest  and  best  freshened  by  soaking  in  sour  milk. 

Oven  Too  Hot. — Sprinkle  quarter  of  an  inch  thick  with  sand  on  bottom. 

To  Keep  Cutlery  from,  Rust. — Wipe  dry,  and  wrap  in  coarse  brown  paper. 

Too  Much  Salt. — When  used,  add  tablespoon  vinegar  and  teaspoon  sugar. 

For  Soft  Dish-cloths,  both  for  washing  and  wiping  dishes,  try  cheese  cloth. 

Salt  in  Gravy. — Do  not  put  salt  in  milk  gravy  till  it  is  done  or  it  will  curdle. 

Bread  for  Ovem. — When  bread  will  not  retain  the  dent  of  the  finger  it  is 
i*eady  for  the  oven. 

To  Preserve  Milk. — A spoonful  of  grated  horse-radish  will  keep  a pan  of 
cnilk  sweet  for  days. 

Dry  Sponge  Cake. — When  sponge  cake  becomes  dry  it  is  nice  to  cut  in 
thin  slices  and  toast. 

When  Washing  Baking  Dishes. — Rinse  well,  invert  them  a few  minutes, 
and  they  will  wash  easily. 

Tin  Tea-ketiles. — Kerosene  will  make  tin  tea-kettles  as  bright  as  new. 
Saturate  a woolen  rag  and  rub  with  it. 

Charred  Casks. — Water  and  salt  meat  may  be  preserved  pure  a long  time 
if  put  up  in  casks  with  the  inside  charred. 

Corn  Starch  is  a good  substitute  for  eggs  in  cookies  and  doughnuts.  One 
tablespoon  of  the  starch  is  equal  to  one  egg. 

Pastry. — Wash  the  upper  crust  of  pies  with  milk  just  before  putting  them 
in  the  oven,  and  it  will  be  a beautiful  browm 

Corks. — When  corks  are  too  large  to  go  into  a bottle,  throw  them  into 
hot  water  for  a few  minutes,  and  they  will  soften. 

To  Make  Meat  Tender — A spoonful  of  vinegar  put  into  the  water  in 
which  meats  or  fowls  are  boiled  makes  them  tender. 

The  Taste  of  Fish  may  be  removed  very  effectually  from  steel  knives  and 
forks  by  rubbing  them  with  fresh  orange  or  lemon  peel. 

Stain  on  Spoons  from  boiled  egg  is  removed  by  rubbing  with  a little  salt, 
or  washing  in  water  in  which  potatoes  have  been  boiled. 

Wire  Table  Ware — Should  never  be  scoured;  it  will  remain  bright  if 
merely  washed  in  clean  water  with  a little  soap  added. 

Salt  will  curdle  new  milk;  hence,  in  preparing  milk  poridge,  gravies, 
etc.,  the  salt  should  not  be  added  until  the  dish  is  prepared. 

To  Clean  Windows. — The  wing  of  turkeys,  geese  and  chickens  are  good 
to  wash  and  clean  windows,  as  they  leave  no  dust  nor  lint  as  cloth. 


KITCHEN  WRINKLES. 


993 


To  Mend  Tin  Pans. — Put  putty  on  the  outside  and  let  dry  well.  The 
pan  will  never  need  mending  in  the  same  place  again. 

To  Beat  the  Whites  of  Eggs  Quickly,  put  in  a pinch  of  salt.  The  cooler 
the  eggs  the  quicker  they  will  froth.  Salt  cools  and  also  freshens  them. 

Copperas  Water. — Dissolve  one  pound  copperas  in  a gallon  hot  water  and 
add  two  ounces  commercial  carbolic  acid ; pour  a pint  into  sink  twice  a week. 

Lemons. — Before  using  lemons  for  any  porpose,  always  roll  them  awhile 
with  your  hand  on  a table.  This  will  cause  them  to  yield  a large  quantity  of 
juice. 

Silver  Polish. — To  one  quart  rain-water  add  tw©  ounces  ammonia  and 
three  ounces  of  precipitated  chalk.  Put  into  a bottle ; keep  well  corked  and 
shake  before  using. 

Ground  Tea. — If  tea  be  ground  like  coffev.,  or  crushed,  immediately  be- 
fore hot  water  is  poured  upon  it,  it  will  yield  nearly  double  the  amount  of  its 
exhilarating  qualities. 

Or'^.nges. — Oranges  and  lemons  keep  best  wrapped  in  soft  paper,  and 
laid  in  a drawer.  Lemons  may  be  kept  in  cold  water,  which  should  be 
changed  twice  a week. 

Fleas. — Carbolic  soap  is  good  to  keep  them  away,  but  I don’t  know 
whether  it  will  kill  them  or  not ; wash  the  animal  in  carbolic  soap  and  water 
and  see  how  quickly  they  will  leave. 

Economy  in  Soap. — A soft  soap  for  washing  dishes  can  be  secured  by 
placing  in  an  old  dish,  and  occasionally  adding  water,  all  the  scraps  of  soap 
which  are  too  small  to  use  for  washing. 

Cleaning  Metals. — Triple  lye  and  alcohol,  well  mixed,  will  clean  brass, 
gold  or  silver,  and  make  it  look  like  new.  Have  used  it  three  years  with 
satisfaction.  It  removes  verdigris  nicely.  . 

Stove  Holders. — Take  wrapping  twine  as  it  comes  in  the  house,  tie  it  to- 
gether neatly,  and  cast  on  to  coarse  knitting  needles  thirty  stitches ; knit 
garter  stitch  until  it  is  square,  then  bind  off. 

To  Clean  Bottles. — Save  all  broken  and  crooked  carpet  tacks,  and  keep 
them  in  a box  in  the  kitchen,  for  cleaning  bottles.  They  are  better  than 
shot,  for  the  sharp  edges  scrape  off  all  stains. 

Fly  Specks. — A solution  of  soap  and  water  is  about  the  best  cleaning 
fluid.  If  you  give  the  dirt  and  fly  specks  a little  time  to  soak,  they  will  come 
off  easily.  A woolen  cloth  is  best  to  rub  with. 

Covering  for  Jars. — A good  water-proof  paper  for  covering  jars  used  in 
preserving,  etc.,  may  be  made  by  brushing  over  the  paper  with  boiled  lin- 
seed oil  and  suspending  it  over  a line  until  dry . 

To  Clean  Knives. — Cut  a good-sized,  solid  raw  potato  in  two ; dip  the  flat 
surface  in  powdered  brick,  dust,  and  rub  the  knife-blades;  or,  use  a cork,  or 
a cloth  in  some  way.  Stains  and  rust  will  disappear. 

To  Freshen  Walnuts. — When  walnuts  have  been  kept  until  the  meat  is 
too  much  dried  to  be  good,  let  them  stand  in  milk  and  water  eight  hours, 
and  dry  them,  and  they  will  be  as  fresh  as  when  new. 

Cement  for  China — The  whites  of  two  eggs,  and  enough  quicklime  to  form 
a thick  paste.  The  quicklime  should  be  finely  powdered ; this  makes  a good 
cement  for  mending  broken  china,  marble,  or  glass-ware. 

63 


994 


KITCHEN  WETNKLES. 


How  To  Treat  Angels  Cake. — When  one  has  not  a pan  with  feet  on  up- 
per part,  turn  it  out  upon  muffin  rings  to,.cool.  This  cake  can  be  baked  in 
any  pan  using  same  care  as  to  cleanliness  as  with  any  cake. 

To  Remove  a Tight  Glass  Stopper. — Apply  a cloth  wet  in  hot  water  to 
the  neck  of  the  bottle  ; or  wind  a cord  around  once,  and  ‘‘saw”  back  and 
forth  a few  times.  This  will  heat  and  expand  the  neck  of  the  bottle. 

To  Keep  Ca,ke  From  Sticking. — Butter  the  pans  well,  and  dust  heavily 
with  flour ; turn  them  over  and  knock  them  on  the  table  to  get  out  all  the 
flour  that  will  not  stick,  and  then  put  in  the  cake.  Mine  never  sticks. 

Rust  on  Steel  Implements  or  Knives. — Cover  the  steel  with  sweet-oil,  rub- 
bing it  on  well.  Let  it  remain  for  forty-eight  hours,  and  then,  using  finely 
powdered  unslaked  lime,  rub  the  steel  until  all  the  rust  has  disappeared. 

Care  of  a Gridiron. — All  ironware  needs  thorough  cleaning  every  time  it 
is  used,  and  none  more  than  a gridiron.  _ The  bars  should  be  kept  perfectly 
clean  and  smooth  and  buttered  every  time  they  are  used,  if  one  desires  a 
steak  cooked  to  perfection. 

Clinkers. — may  be  removed  from  grates  and  range  back,  by  throwing 
half  a dozen  broken  oyster  shells  into  the  fire,  when  the  coal  is  "aglow,  and 
covering  them  with  fresh  coal.  When  red-hot  tho  clinkers  become  doughy 
and  are  easily  removed. 

To  Preserve  Lamp  Chimneys  from  Breaking. — Place  a cloth  in  the  bottom 
of  a large  pan,  fill  the  pan  with  cold  water,  and  place  new  chimney  in  it ; 
cover  the  pan,  and  let  its  contents  boil  one  hour ; take  from  fire,  and  let 
chimney  remain  in  water  until  it  is  cold. 


Cement  for  Knife  Handles. — Set  handle  on  end,  and  partly  fill  cavity 
with  powdered  resin,  chopped  hair  or  tow,  chalk,  whiting,  or  quicklime' 
heat  the  spike  of  the  knife  and  force  it  into  its  place.  Equal  parts  of  sulphur, 
resin,  and  brick-dust  also  make  an  excellent  cement. 

To  Soften  Water. — Hard  water  is  rendered  verv  soft  and  pure,  rivaling 
distilled  water,  by  merely  boiling  a two-ounce  vial,  say  in  a kettle  of  water. 
The  carbonate  of  lime  and  many  impurities  will  be  found  adhering  to  the 
bottle.  The  water  boils  very  much  quicker  at  the  same  time. 


A Fire  Kindler. — Melt  together  three  pounds  resin  and  a quart  of  tar, 
and  stir  in  as  much  saw-dust  and  pulverized  charcoal  as  possible,  spread  the 
mass  on  a board  to  cool,  and  break  into  lumps  the  size  of  a walnut.  Light 
one  with  a match,  and  it  burns  for  some  time  with  a strong  blaze. 

Table  Cover,  to  be  thrown  over  the  table  after  it  is  set,  is  best  made  of 
red  cheese  cloth.  Pink  mosquito  netting  is  handsomer  but  does  not  keep  off 
dust ; set  table  for  next  meal  immediately  after  the  dishes  are  washed — the 
most  convenient  plan  where  the  dining-room  is  not  used  for  other  purposes. 


Slaw  Spoon-Fork. — One  of  the 
most  convenient  articles  for  dishing 
slaw  is  the  spoon-fork  as  illustrated. 
One  can  serve  neatly  and  quickly 
with  it. 


Slaw  Spoon-Porfe. 


To  Cleanse  a Syrup  Jar. — If  maple  S5"rup  is  not  hot  enough  v/hen  put  in  jars, 
or  is  imperfectly  sealed,  it  will  crystalize.  In  getting  the  crystal  out  lay  the 
jar  on  the  side,  put  in  a little  water  and  turn  a little  occasionally,  and  the 
crystal  will  come  out  without  breaking  the  giaiss  as  it  will  if  you  try  to  soak 
it  out  while  upright. 


KITCHEN  WRINKLES. 


995 


To  Renew  Stale  Bread,  Etc. — Spread  a good  sized  cloth  in  the  steamer, 
and  lay  in  any  dry  biscuit  or  slices  of  light  bread  you  may  have.  Cover 
closely  with  the  cloth,  which  will  absorb  superfluous  moisture,  and  steam 
ten  or  fifteen  minutes.  The  bread  will  be  almost  as  fresh  as  when  new. 


Salt  Dishes. — The  ‘‘star  salts”  are  now  very  generally  used  on  account 
of  their  convenience  and  utility.  In  the  bottle,  which  has  a perforated  top 
like  a pepper-box,  is  a pulverizer  which  keeps  the  salt  loose,  and  insures  its 
free  delivery.  When  it  is  not  necessary  to  measure  the  quantity,  they  are 
always  ready,  and  insure  a good  distribution  of  the  salt. 

Pancake  Lifter. — This  simple  and  cheap 
lifter  is  a necessity  if  unbroken  and  neatly 
baked  pancakes  are  a desideratum.  The 
cost  is  small,  and  the  lifter  will  last  a life- 
time, and  with  it  there  is  no  excuse  for  not  serving  the  breakfast  cakes  neatly. 

Measures. — They  should  be  a quart,  pint,  half  pint  and  gill,  all  made  of 
best  charcoal  tin  that  contains  no  poisonous  lead  which  is  so  commonly  used 
to  coat  inferior  tin-ware.  Still  more  convenient  is  a lately  invented  meas- 
ure of  tapering  form  with  ring  or  shoulders,  at  difi’erent  heighths,  showing 
any  measure  desired  from  a gill  to  a quart. 

A Clean  Cook  Stove. — Housekeepers  should  endeavor  to  keep  their  cook 
stoves  clean,  an  easy  matter  by  using  care.  Salt  sprinkled  over  anything  thai 
is  burning  on  the  stove  will  prevent  any  disagreeable  odor.  Instead  of  us- 
ing a knife  to  scrape  the  dirt  off,  a small  sheet  of  sand-paper  is  more  conven . 
ient  and  better.  Stove  legs  painted  red  are  very  pretty  and  are  more  easily ■ 
kept  clean. 

To  Make  Kindlings. — Put  two  or  three  ounces  tallow  to  one  pound  resin^ 
melt  very  carefully  together  and  when  hot  stir  in  fine  sawdust  and  mako 
very  thick.  Spread  it  immediately  about  one  inch  thick  upon  a board,  firsts 
sprinkling  the  board  with  fine  sawdust  to  prevent  sticking.  When  cold, 
break  into  lumps  one  inch  square.  Or  make  nicer  thus  ; while  the  mixture 
is  warm  on  the  board,  take  a thin  board  grease  the  edge  and  mark  the  kindl- 
ing off  into  squares,  pressing  it  in  deep ; then  when  cold  they  will  break  ofi; 
into  regular  pieces. 

Cement  for  Dishes. — Into  a thick  solution  of  gum  arabic  stir  plaster  of 
paris  until  the  mixture  assumes  the  consistency  of  cream,  apply  with  a brush 
to  the  broken  edges  of  the  ware  and  join  together.  In  three  days  the  article 
cannot  be  broken  in^the  same  place.  The  whitness  of  the  cement  adds  to 
its  value.  A simple  way  is  to  tie  the  broken  dishes  carefully  together  then 
boil  for  ten  or  fifteen  minutes  in  milk  keeping  the  broken  parts  covered  with 
milk,  they  will  be  nearly  as  strong  as  when  new.  Some  use  simply  white 
lead  and  place  the  dish  away  for  two  or  three  months. 


The  American  Broiler. — This  popular  broiler  has  been  before  the  public 
for  many  years,  and  has  done  more  to  banish  the 
health-destroying  frying  pan  from  the  kitchen 
than  any  of  its  later  rivals.  It  will  also  be  a fav- 
orite. 

To  Clean  Silver. — ‘‘Inaexical  Soap”  is  the  bes^ 
thing  for  the  purpose  in  use,  not  for  every  day,  but 
when  thorough  cleaning  is  required.  It  is  well, 
also,  to  keep  it  in  a convenient  dish,  and  rub  on 
The  American  uroiief.  ^ flannel  whenevei  a spot  appears  oj3^ 

the  silver. 


998 


KITCHEN  WRINKLES. 


A Moveable  Sink,  set  on  very  large  and  strong  casters,  is  a labor-saving 
contrivance.  It  may  be  run  into  the  dining-room  to  receive  dishes  after  the 
meal  is  over,  and  afterwards  returned  to  the  kitchen  and  placed  where  the 
light  is  best,  or  in  the  coolest  part  of  the  room  if  the  weather  is  hot.  Simple 
contrivances  of  this  kind,  which  cost  little  except  the  labor  of  the  ‘hnen 
folks,’’  may  often  be  used  to  save  steps  and  preserve  the  health  of  the  over- 
worked housekeeper. 

Batter  Bucket. — This  convenient  utensil  to  be  used  in  making  griddle 
cakes  should  be  used  in  every  kitchen.  The  most  per- 
fectly shaped  cakes  can  be  made  from  it  without  drop- 
ping over  stove  and  griddle,  and  the  cover  and  stopper 
keep  it  closely  covered  after  batter  is  made,  till  wanted 
for  use. 

To  Clean  Brass  Kettles. — When  much  discolored,  scour 
with  soap  and  ashes,  then  put  in  a half  pint  vinegar  and  a 
handful  of  salt,  put  on  stove,  let  come  to  a boil, take  cloth, 
wash  thoroughly,  and  rinse  out  with  water.  If  using 
every  day,  the  salt  and  vinegar  and  rinsing  are  sufficient. 

Copper  utensils  are  cleaned  by  simply  rubbing  with  the 
salt  and  vinegar,  using  as  much  salt  as  the  vinegar  will  dissolve,  and  apply 
rith  a woolen  rag,  rubbing  vigorously  ; then  polish  with  pulverized  chalk. 

Water  boiled  in  galvanized  iron  becomes  poisonous,  and  cold  water 
passed  through  zinc-lined  iron  pipes  should  never  be  used  for  cooking  or 
drinking.  Hot  water  for  cooking  should  never  be  taken  from  hot  water 
pipes ; take  from  cold-water  pipes  and  keep  a supplj^  heated  for  use  in  kettles 

Lid  Lifters. — There  are  a great  many  forms  of  lifters  for  stove  lids.  The 
two  best  we  illustrate  here.  In  one  the  handle  is 
of  wood,  set  in  an  iron  socket,  and  the  other  serves 
as  a lid  lifter,  and  has  a hook  for  lifting  pots  and 
kettles,  which  are  provided  with  bails.  Always 
have  a shelf  for  the  lifter  near  the  stove ; never 
hang  on  a nail. 

Gas  Stoves.— In  cities  where  gas  is  used  the 
use  of  gas  stoves  for  cooking  in  hot  weather  is  as  a rule  economical,  and  adds 
much  to  comfort,  or  rather  saves  much  discomfort.  Gas  companies  usually 
make  a discount  for  gas  consumed  in  cooking.  There  are  many  gas  stoves 
in  market,  many  of  them  excellent  for  the  purpose. 

Vienna  Lime. — Vienna  lime  and  alcohol  give  a beautiful  polish  to  iron  or 
steel.  Select  the  soft  pieces  of  lime,  such  as  will  be  easily  crushed  by  the 
thumb  and  finger,  as  they  are  the  most  free  from  gritty  particles.  Apply 
with  a cork,  piece  of  soft  pine  wood,  leather,  chamois,  etc. 

Oil  Stoves. — Where  gas  is  not  in  use,  some  one  of  the  many  kind  of  oil 
stoves  may  be  used  for  cooking  to  advantage,  in  hot  weather  especially, 
when  the  family  is  small.  The  use  of  those  which  use  gasoline,  and  the 
lighter  products  of  petroleum,  usually  increases  the  rate  of  insurance,  and  is 
too  dangerous  to  be  trusted  to  any  but  the  most  careful  and  experienced 
persons. 

Iron  Sink. — The  best  sink  for  service  and  convenience  is  made  of  cast- 
iron  in  one  solid  piece.  There  are  several  sizes  manufactured,  and  the  larg- 
est size  that  can  be  afiforded  should  be  selected.  The  iron  sink  never  leaks, 
is  easily  cleaned,  does  not  need  painting,  does  not  get  foul  like  wood,  or  wear 
out  like  zinc.  The  waste-pipe  is  easily  and  firmly  attached,  and  in  short  it 
has  all  the  merits  aud  none  of  the  faults  of  other  sinks. 


KITCHEN  WBINKLES. 


997 


Hot  Alum- Water  is  the  best  insect  destroyer  known.  Put  the  alum  into 
hot  water,  and  let  it  boi]  till  it  is  all  dissolved ; then  apply  the  solution  hot 
with  a brush  to  all  cracKs,  closets,  bedsteads,  and  other  places  where  any 
insects  are  found.  Ants,  bedbugs,  cockroaches,  and  creeping  things  are 
killed  by  it,  while  it  has  no  danger  of  poisoning. 

To  Prevent  Rusting  of  Tin,  rub  fresh  lard  over  every  part  of  the  dish, 
and  then  put  in  a hot  oven  and  heat  it  thoroughly.  Thus  treated,  any  tin- 
ware may  be  used  in  water  constantly,  and  remain  bright  and  free  from  rust. 
To  clean  tin  or  other  metalic  vessels  which  have  held  petroleum — hot  soap 
and  water. 

Fly  Trap. — In  spite  of  carefully  screened  windows,  flies  will  make  their 
their  way  into  the  best  kept  houses.  The  trap  represented 
here  is  the  invention  of  a lady,  and  is  a jjerfect  success. 
It  will  clear  a room  of  flies  in  a short  time,  if  none  are  al- 
lowed to  get  in  from  out  of  doors.  The  flies  are  attracted 
inside  the  cage  by  bait  and  can’t  get  out,  and  are  easily 
killed  and  trap  set  for  more. 

Kitchen  Windows — Ought  to  be  as  cheerful,  light  and 
bright  as  in  any  room  in  the  house.  If  the  sills  are  extra 
broad,  and  a few  choice  flowers  thrive  on  them,  so  much 
the  better.  The  ceilings  should  be  of  a cheerful  tint,  and 
the  "wood- work,  whether  oiled  or  painted,  varnished.  This 
protects  the  wood  and  paint,  and  it  is  easily  cleaned.  It  is  a mistaken  idea 
to  neglect  the  kitchen  for  the  parlor. 

Spoon  Cupboard. — As  near  the  stove  or  range  as  possible  have  a small 
cupboard,  made  of  the  same  wood  as  kitchen  is  finished  in,  without  any 
shelves.  Have  little  scre.w  hooks  screwed  in  the  back  of  it  in  rows  for  large 
basting  spoons,  meat  forks  and  any  of  the  small  articles  used  in  cooking  that 
can  be  hung  up.  At  the  bottom  place  the  small  knives  and  forks,  and  have 
a hollowed  out  shelf  placed  on  bottom  of  door  high  enough  up  to  shut  in, 
for  the  table  and  teaspoons  needed.  This  saves  many  steps  and  much  time 
in  fumbling  through  drawers. 

Baking  Cupboard. — In  the  pantry  have  a cupboard  without  shelves,  be- 
side the  place  used  for  baking  and  in  it  have  screw-hooks  screwed  on  the 
sides  and  back,  upon  which  to  kaaag  measures,  egg-beater,  cake  paddles,  and 
all  small  utensils  used  in  baking.  On  the  bottom  keep  the  flavoring  extracts, 
cook-book  and  anything  else  that  can  not  be  hung  up.  Under  this  cupboard 
it  is  nice  to  have  some  small  drawers  for  raisins,  currants,  boxes  of  spice, 
gelatine,  etc.  Making  them  of  difi’erent  heighths  as  wanted. 

Cabbage  Water. — Be  careful  that  no  cabbage  water  is  poured  down  the 
kitchen-sink,  as  the  smell  of  it — a singularly  unpleasant  one — is  so  strong 
that  it  will  penetrate  all  over  the  house,  and  produce  the  suspieion  of  a bad 
drain.  The  water  in  which  any  vegetable  has  been  boiled,  should  be  thrown 
av/ay  out  of  doors,  in  a distant  corner  of  the  garden,  if  possible. 

Pulverized  Charcoal — should  be  kept  in  every  house  in  a glass  jar  with  a 
wide  mouth,  containing  a half  pint.  The  coal  should  be  freshly  burned — 
the  best  is  not  from  the  hardest  or  softest  wood,  but  a medium — pulverized 
finely  in  a mortar  while  the  coals  are  yet  red.  Cork  tight;  it  is  invaluable 
in  preserving  meats  and  poultrv  and  is  sometimes  even  given  as  a remedv 
for  indigestion. 

A Grate  Heater. — One  oi  tne  latest  cneap  conveniences  is  a neat  iron 
plate,  large  enough  to  set  a coffee  or  teapot  on,  wiiich  has  ap^iendages  be- 


998 


KITCHEN  WRINKLES. 


low  which  slip  over  the  front  bars  of  a grate,  and  furnish  a place  to  heat  cof- 
fee, tea  or  water  by  the  grate  fire.  This  heater  may  be  attached  so  as  to 
project  inside  over  the  fire,  or  outside  when  the  heat  would  be  less  intense. 

A Table  Heater. — Another  ingenious  heater  is  a round  piece  of  solid  iron, 
as  large  as  the  bottom  of  a coffee-pot.  This  is  placed  on  the  top  of  the  stove 
and  heated,  and  when  the  coffee-pot  is  placed  on  the  table  this  heater,  set 
in  a neat  cast-iron  basket,  supported  on  thTee  neat  legs,  takes  the  place  of  a 
table  mat  and  keeps  it  steaming  hot,  as  the  iron  holds  heat  for  a long  time 
The  basket  is  constructed  so  that  air  circulates  under  the  iron  and  prevents 
injury  to  the  table. 

Tension  Chopping  Knife. — In  this  knife  the  blades 
are  made  of  fine  steel,  wrought  very  thin,  and  are 
kept  firm  l)y  the  tension  of  the  frame  in  which  they 
are  set.  It  does  very  rapid  work,  and  is  an  excellent 
knife  for  family  use.  Most  people  consider  hash  a 
very  delicious  breakfast  dish,  in  spite  of  all  the  hits 
newspaper  paragrapliers  have  made  on  it,  and  a good 
implement  for  making  it  is  indispensable  in  every  well 
ordered  kitchen.  . The  chopping  knife  is  a great  saver 
of  butchers’  bills,  and  ought  to  be  respected  accord- 
ing!” 

The  Smell  of  Onions  and  other  odors  can  be  removed  fTom  kettles  and 
sauce. pans.  Put  some  wood  ashes  into  the  utensils,  add  boiling  water,  and 
let  it  stand  a short  time  on  the  back  part  of  the  stove.  Or,  if  you  have  no 
wood  ashes,  use  potash,  soda,  or  concentrated  lye  with  water,  then  wash  in 
hot  suds.  All  cooking  utensils  in  which  onions,  cabbage,  or  turnips  have 
been  cooked  should  be  thus  cleansed. 


Polishing. — Flour  of  emery,  which  is  cheap  and  js  kept  at  all  drug-stores, 
is  excellent  for  polishing  everything  except  silver.  Common  water-lime, 
such  as  is  used  in  plastering  cisterns,  is  an  excellent  material  for  polishing 
knives,  forks,  and  tin-ware.  First  rub  tins  with  a damp  cloth,  then  take  dry 
flour  and  rub  it  on  with  the  hands,  and  afterwards  take  an  old  newspaper 
and  rub  the  tin  until  bright.  Keep  in  an  old  pepper-box,  and  aoulv  with  a 
damp  cloth. 

Pack  for  Covers. — There  are  always  neeaed  about  a kitchen  stove  or 
range  a number  of  articles,  such  as  tin  covers  for  pots  and  pans,  handles  for 
stove  covers,  etc.  There  should  always  be  a rack  or  other  convenient  place 
on  the  wall  near  the  stove  and  within  easy  reach  for  all  such  articles.  The 
handle  for  stove  covers  is  often  hung  up,  but  never  should  be,  because  it  is 
often  snatched  oft'  in  a hurry.  A small  shelf  is  better  if  placed  at  a conven- 
ient height.  Arrange  everything  about  a stove  to  save  time  and  steps. 

A Good  Lantern  is  a necessity  in  every  house,  and  a poor 
lantern  that  is  always  out  of  order  when  'wanted,  is  as  much 
a nuisance  as  a broken  umbrella.  The  form  represented  here 
burns  kerosene  oil,  and  is  a cheap,  convenient,  and  in  every 
way  a good  lantern  for  family  use.  The  lamp  is  easily  fillecl. 
The  tube  that  surrounds  the  lamp  furnishes  the  air  for  com- 
bustion and  it  is  not  easily  broken  or  damaged. 

Cupboards . — There  ought  always  to  be  an  iron- ware  closet> 
with  deep  shelves,  in  the  kitchen  where  the  iron-ware  can  be 
kept  out  of  the  dust.  For  china,  glass  and  silver,  if  such  a lux- 
ury is  known,  a corner  cupboard  with  glass  doors  is  a pretty 
article  of  furniture,  and  takes  v^ry  little  available  room.  Draw- 
ers for  napkins  and  table-clothes  and  for  the  childreai’s  bibs  and  aprons  are 
also  in  order. 


KITCHEN  WRINKLES. 


999 


Fryer  and  Drainer. — This  invention  furnishes  a con- 
venient method  of  frying,  oysters,  potatoes  and  other 
articles  that  when  done  need  to  be  removed  quickly 
from  the  boiling  fat  and  drained,  while  remaining  over 
the  hot  tire,  in  order  to  remove  all  supertiuons  grease. 

It  has  a support  for  the  perforated  pan  which  rests  in- 
side the  frying  pan,  which  may  be  detached,  leaving 
the  frying  pan  a little  deeper  than  those  in  common  use. 

To  Wash  preserve  Jars  — Preserve  jars  or  bottles 
should  be  carefully  washed  as  soon  as  emptied,  taking 
care  that  the  stoppers  and  covers  have  their  share  of 
attention.  It  is  well  to  put  soda  or  ammonia  into  the 
jars  or  bottles,  till  up  with  water,  and  let  stand  an  hour, 
putting  the  stoppers  or  covers  into  a bowl  to  soak  in  ^ Fryer  and  Drainer, 
the  same  way.  Then  pour  out  and  scald  nicely,  but  not  with  boiling  water, 
as  that  cracks  the  polished  surface  inside,  wipe  dry,  set  in  the  sun  or  wind 
to  air,  and  then  set  away  carefully.  ^ 

A Folding  Table. — A folding  table  is  very  useful 
in  small  houses,  and  even  in  large  houses  for  many 
purposes.  The  accompanying  cut  represents  a form 
which  is  simple,  convenient,  and  easily  made  by  any 
carpenter.  It  folds  up  compactly  when  not  in  use, 
and  when  needed  may  be  instantly  unfolded  and  is 
ready  for  use.  When  an  extra  table  is  needed  in 
making  up  clothing,  etc.,  such  a piece  of  furniture  is 
invaluable,  and  when  not  in  use  it  does  not  occupy 
valuable  space  and  get  in  everybody’s  way. 


Coffee  Syrup. — Take  a half  pound  of  the  best  ground  coffee ; put  it  into  a 
saucepan  containing  three  pints  of  water,  and  boil  it  down  to  one  pint ; boil 
the  liquor,  put  it  into  another  sauce-pan,  well  scoured,  and  boil  it  again. 
As  it  boils  add  white  sugar  enough  to  give  the  consistency  of  syrup  ; take  it 
from  the  fire,  and  when  it  is  cool  put  in  a bottle  and  seal.  When  traveling 
if  you  wish  for  a cup  of  good  coffee  put  two  teaspoons  of  the  syrup  into  aa 
ordinary  cup,  and  pour  boiling  water  upon  it,  and  it  is  ready  to  use. 


Spice  Box. — The  spice  box  serves  the  same 
purpose  as  the  rack  and  cabinet,  but  is  closer 
than  either  and  equally  convenient.  It  has  a 
handle  on  the  top  and  a clasp  which  fastens 
the  lid  in  place.  For  keeping  spices  from 
waste,  and  for  convenience,  one  of  these  con- 
trivances is  a great  addition  to  a kitchen  outfit. 

A Pair  of  Good  Scales  is  a necessity  in 
every  well-regulated  kitchen.  Unfortunately 
for  people  w^ho  always  wmnt  to  get  the  full 
worth  of  their  money,  not  every  grocer  and 
butcher  is  honest,  and  when  the  quality  of 
goods  is  satisfactory  there  is  sometimes  a ser- 
ious shortage  in  weight.  A good  pair  of  scales 

is  a little  detective  that  does  its  work  quietly  and  faithfully.  If  after  all  al- 
lowance for  error  that  reasonable  man  could  ask,  you  find  weights  habitually 
short,  it  is^  better  and  safer  to  try  a new  dealer ; but  if  the  dealer  knows  you 
have  a weighing  scale  and  use  it,  your  weights  will  be  full,  especially  if  you 
pay  your  bills  promptly. 


1000 


KITCHEN  WRINKLES. 


Washing  Dishes. — In  washing  dishes,  in  addition  to  directions  given  in 

‘‘Dining  Room,’’  care 
must  be  taken  not  to  put 
tumblers  which  have  had 
milk  in  them  into  hot 
water,  as  it  drives  the 
milk  into  the  glass, 
whence  it  can  never  he 
removed.  They  should 
be  first  rinsed  well  in 
tepid  water.  Tumblers 
and  goblets  should  be 
Easy  Dish  Drainer.  placed  in  hot  soapy  Water, 

dipping  the  sides  first,  and  turning  them  rapidly,  thus  heating  the  outside 
and  inside  at  the  same  time  and  preventing  breaking ; when  wiped,  they 
should  not  be  turned  down  until  put  away  in  a china  closet.  It  is  a very 
nice  way  to  use  the  easy  dish  drainer  as  illustrated.  The  bottom  is  spaced 
so  as  to  hold  pL^es  upright  as  represented  in  cut.  The  drainer  may  also  be 
used  as  a bread-cooler,  and  the  same  frame,  lined  with  pretty  material, 
makes  a nice  family  work  basket. 

To  Keep  Table  Clothes  Clean — for  a long  time.  After  clearing  the  table, 
place  a clean  towel  under  any  spots  that  may  have  been  made  during  dinner, 
and  rub  the  spot  with  a fresh  clean  cloth  wet  with  clean  soap-suds,  then 
rinse  with  clean  water,  dry  with  a clean  dry  towel,  fold  and  lay  under  a 
heavy  weight.  In  changing  table  cloths  during  the  week,  contrive  to  bring 
<,he  fresh  table  cloth  on  first  at  dinnor.  Place  a large  napkin  over  each  end 
^f  table  cloth,  to  protect  it  from  soiling  in  the  process  in  serving  the  plates, 
removing  when  the  crumbs  are  brushed. 

To  Clean  Coffee  or  Tea-pots. — Musty  coffee-pots  ana  tea-pots  may  be 
cleaned  and  sweetened  by  putting  a good  quantity  of  wood  ashes  into  them 
and  filling  up  with  coi<l  water.  Set  on  the  stove  to  heat  gradually  till  the 
water  boils.  Let  it  boil  a short  time,  then  set  aside  to  cool,  when  the  inside 
should  be  faithfully  washed  and  scrubbed  in  hot  soap-suds,  using  a small 
brush  that  every  spot  may  be  reached ; then  scald  two  or  three  times,  and 
wfipe  till  well  dried.  Pots  and  pans  or  plates  that  have  been  used  for  baking 
and  grown  rancid,  may  be  cleansed  in  the  same  way.  Put  the  plates  into  a 
pan  with  wood  ashes  add  cold  water,  and  proceed  as  above  stated.  If  no 
wood  ashes  can  be  had,  take  soda.  Pie-plates  and  baking-dishes  cleaned 
after  this  fashion  will  keep  sweet  all  the  time. 

A Convenient  Ash  Box. — This  can  be  made  of  cheap  lumber,  and  of  a size 
that  the  lumber  at  hand  will  cut  without  waste  ; seven  feet  in  length  by  three 
feet  in  width,  and  four  feet  high  may  answer  inmost 
circumstances.  A lid.  A,  is  provided  occupying 
nearly  one-half  of  the  top,  as  shown  in  fig.  1,  and 
also  a side  door  B,  used  for  removing  the  ashes.  Two 
strips  of  board  are  fastened  within  and  lengthwise 
of  the  box,  upon  which  the  sifter  or  sieve  rests  as  it 
is  shaken,  as  shown  in  verticle  view,  upper  figure. 

The  sieve,  which  is  an  ordinary  one,  costing  perhaps 
twenty-five  cents  at  the  store,  has  a long  handle 
fastened  to  it ; with  this  the  ash  box  and  sifting  ap- 
paratus is  complete.  The  advantages  claimed  for 
this  ash  box  are : The  ashes  can  be  sifted  without 
making  any  dust,  as  when  the  lid  is  closed  the  whole 
is  confined  within  the  box.  The  ashes  and  sieve 
are  kept  from  exposure  to  storms,  and  the  latter  is  always  in  place  and  ready 


KITCHEN  WRINKLES. 


1001 


for  use.  It  dispenses  with  a disagreeable  looking  heap  of  ashes  often  found 
on  exhibition  the  year  round,  and  lastly  it  is  cheaply  and  easily  made.  As 
the  structure  is  of  wood,  care  should  be  taken  that  there  be  no  live  coals  among 
the  ashes  when  they  go  to  the  ash  box.  A coat  of  paint  will  add  to  the  ap- 
pearance of  this  useful  and  economical  article. 


The  Dover  Broiler. — A good  deal  of  ingenuity  has  been  exhausted  in  va- 
rious inventions  for  broiling^meat  easily  and  quickly,  and  leaving  housewives 

no  excuse  for  using  the  dyspepsia- 
producing,  old-fashioned  frying  pan, 
and  there  are  several  good  ones  in 
the  market.  The  latest  candidate  for 
favor  hails  from  Boston,  and  is  well 
represented  in  the  engraving.  The 
meat  is  placed  between  the  bars  of  a 
reversible  wire  broiler,  and  set  up- 
right inside  the  tin  or  Russia  iron 
case,  the  cover  to  which  slides  over 
the  handles  and  keeps  in  all  the  heat. 
The  case  has  no  bottom,  but  is  made 
in  several  sizes  to  fit  the  holes  of  the 
various  sizes  of  stoves.  The  meat  is 
thus  subjected  to  great  heat  without 
danger  of  burning.  A spout  is  ar- 
ranged to  catch  all  the  juices  as  they 
flow,  and  carries  them  to  a little  pan 
provided  for  the  purpose.  Great  care 
must  be  taken  not  to  remove  a cover  or  open  the  stove  door  while  the  broil- 
ing is  going  on,  or  the  sm(>ke  will  rush  up  into  the  broiler.  With  care  to  avoid 
this,  not  a particle  of  smoke  reaches  the  meat. 

The  White  Mountain  Freezer. — This  freezer  is  the  best  in  the  market,  an\ 
will  give  satisfaction  to  every  purchaser.  It  has  three  motions.  The  center 
beater  shaft  has  lifter  arms,  or  floats,  which 
mix  the  cream  in  the  middle,  turning  oppo- 
site the  outside  beater.  The  outside  beater 
scrapes  the  cream  off  the  can  and  has  floats 
extending  to  inside  beater,  which  throws  the 
cream  to  the  center,  when  it  is  thrown  back 
by  the  inside  beater  to  the  outside,  the  can  in 
the  meantime  turning  in  an  opposite  direction 
making  theeb  simiitaneous  motions,  thus 
mixing  the  cream  thoroughly  and  evenly. 

These  beaters  are  of  maleable  iron  and  coated 
with  pure  block  tin. 

Single  beater  Freezers  do  not  mix  the 
cream  evenly  because  there  is  no  opposite 
motion,  and  the  cream  goes  around  with  the 
beater.  It  is  the  same  principle  of  rinsing  by  putting  your  Rands  into  a pail 
of  water  and  moving  it  around,  the  water  goes  with  the  hand  for  the  reason 
there  is  no  opposite  obstruction  to  prevent.  In  the  Tripple  Motion  Freezer 
the  arms  or  floats  pass  each  other  and  the  cream  must  be  better  worked. 

The  beater.,  are  light  and  easy  to  clean,  but  single  beater  freezers  have 
large  beaters,  which  fill  up  the  can  and  are  hard  to  clean,  and  must  necessa- 
rily waste  cream.  This  freezer  has  no  large  surfaces  of  zinc  in  contact  with 
the  cream,  but  tin  instead.  Families  especially  look  to  this,  as  freezers  put 
away  damp,  will,  when  dry,  show  oxide  of  zinc,  W'hich  is  a well-known  poisorv 


1002 


KITCHEN  WRINKLES. 


The  can  is  moved  from  the  bottom,  and  while  at  work  the  cover  can  he 
removed,  showing  its  operation  clearly.  Other  freezers  are  so  constructed 
that  the  cover  actuiltes  the  can,  and  cannot  be  removed  while  working. 

The  cover  of  the  White  Mountain  Freezer  does  not  have  to  be  adjusted 
to  a particular  place,  but  fits  anywhere  upon  the  can,  and  being  loose  can  be 
taken  off  easily  without  pulling  the  can  out  of  the  ice. 

Soldering  Liquid. — In  soldering  tin- ware,  especially  in  mending  old  ware, 
the  use  of  soldering  liquids  v/ill  greatly  help.  There  are  several  of  these. 
The  best  is  made  as  follows : Get  any  convenient  vial  about  half  tull  of  mu- 
riatic acid ; procure  at  the  tin  shop  some  scraps  of  sheet  zinc ; if  you  have  no 
strong  shears,  let  the  tin-smith  cut  the  zinc  in  strips  narrow  enough  to  enter 
the  vial.  Place  the  vial  out  doors,  or  under  a shed,  and  add  a strip  or  two  of 
zinc.  ^ A great  bubbling  or  boiling  will  take  place  as  the  zinc  dissolves.  As 
one  piece  of  zinc  dissolves  add  another,  and  when  a piece  remains  without 
any  action  or  bubbling  of  the  liquid,  it  is  done.  Fit  to  the  lower  end  of  the 
cork  a piece  of  stick  to  reach  into  the  liquid ; after  the  liquid  is  perfectly  quiet, 
cork  it.  In  soldering,  wet  the  place  where  the  solder  is  to  go,  with  this  liquid ; 
the  drop  or  two  that  the  stick  will  take  up  is  enough.  Do  not  get  this  liquid 
on  the  clothing,  or  on  the  skin,  as  it  may  irritate  it  and  make  it  feel  very  rough. 

Dish  Cloths,  Wipers,  Table  Linens,  Etc. — Roller  towels  for  the  hands 
should  be  marked  with  the  number  of  each,  and  also  with  the  whole  num- 
ber; as  1-6,  2-6,  etc.,  where  the  whole  number  is  six.  This  shows  at  once 
the  whole  number  to  be  accounted  for,  and  also  makes  it  easy  to  use  them 
in  rotation,  so  that  they  may  be  worn  equally.  Of  dish  cloths,  of  which 
there  should  be  six — two  for  the  best  dishes,  two  for  greasy,  and  two  for  pots 
and  kettles,  the  first  two  may  be  marked,  and  “B-2-2 the  second 

two,  ‘‘G-1-2”  and  G-2-1;’’  the  third,  “P-1-2”  and  “P-2-2.”  ‘VVfping  towels, 
of  which  there  should  be  six,  two  to  be  used  each  week,  washing  every  day, 
may  be  marked  in  a similar  way,  which  is  equally  good  for  napkins,  table 
cloths,  cloths  for  silver,  etc.  Never  buy  new  cloth  for  dish  cloths  or  wipers ; 
buy  Stevens’  crash  (or  any  other  linen  crash)  for  towels ; when  worn  soft, 
take  for  dish-cloths  and  wipers  ; keep  whole  for  dish  wipers,  and  cut  one  of 
a yard  in  length  into  three,  hem  and  place  in  kitchen  for  dish-cloths,  you 
thus  have  one  for  pots  and  kettles,  one  for  dishes,  and  one  to  wipe  a knife, 
fork  or  spoon  that  you  may  be  using  while  cooking,  for  the  wipers  should 
never  be  used  for  this  purpose. 

Water. — Pure  water  is  as  necessary  to  health  as  pure  air.  Rain-water, 
filtered  to  remove  any  foreign  matters  caught  from  the  roof  or  in  the  smoky 
atmosphere,  is  the  purest  attainable.  It  is  a debatable  question  whether  the 
mineral  matters  held  in  solution  in  hard  water  are  injurious  to  health,  but 
vegetable  or  animal  matters  are  agreed  by  all  chemists  to  be  injurious,  and, 
in  many  cases,  rank  poisons,  breeding  fatal  fevers,  and  other  violent  diseases. 
Water  that  is  at  all  doubtful,  should  be  boiled  before  drinking,  as  the  vege- 
table and  animal  matters  are  thus  destroyed,  and  the  mineral  deposited  on 
the  bottom  of  the  kettle.  Wells,  even  in  the  country,  are  very  doubtful 
sources  from  which  to  procure  a supply  of  pure  water.  In  cities  the  sources 
of  well-supply  are  almost  invariably  poisoned  by  the  numerous  cesspools, 
vaults  and  drains  that  filter  through  the  earth  until  they  reach  the  under- 
ground streams  of  water,  poisoning  them  as  surely  as  they  would  a surface 
stream  or  pond.  When  it  is  remembered  that  all  water  in  wells  must  come 
first  from  the  surface,  and  that  it  dissolves  all  sorts  of  filth  as  it  passes  into 
the  earth,  carrying  a good  deal  with  it,  particularly  if  the  soil  is  sandy  and 
porous,  it  will  be  readily  understood  that  wells  are  apt  to  furnish  impure 


KITCHEN  WRINKLES. 


1003 


water  as 
elude  all 


surely  as  if  they  scattered  arsenic.  Wells  should  be  covered  to  ex- 
leaves and  vegetable  matter.  The  ground  should  slope  away  from 
the  well  so  as  to  carry  away  surface  water,  and  it  should 
be  located  as  far  as  possible  from  barns  and  out-buildin  {S 
where  filth  accumulates.  There  are  various  good  filte  rs 
in  the  market,  but  one  maybe  easily  and  cheaply  made 
as  illustrated : Take  a large  flower  pot,  and  insert 
sponge  in  the  hole  in  the  bottom,  fill  the  pot  with  altei- 
nate  layers  of  sand,  charcoal,  and  small  pebbles.  ^ The 
flower  pot  thus  filled  up  may  then  be  placed  on  a jar  or 
other  convenient  vessel,  into  which  the  water  can  be  re- 
ceived as  it  filters  through.  Never  use  hot  water  drawn 
from  a lead  pipe,  but  take  the  cold  and  heat  it  on  the 
stove. 


To  Cleanse  Filters. — In  order  to  be  safe  and  efficient,  a filter  requires 
cleansing  every  few  weeks  or  months  according  to  the  amount  of  water  fil- 
tered and  its  quality.  When  ordinary  cistern  water  is  used,  a filter  should 
not  be  used  longer  than  six  months  without  cleansing,  and  if  a large  amount 
of  water  is  used,  not  more  than  half  that  time.  The  sponge  should  be 
cleansed  and  scalded  at  least  two  or  three  times  a week.  The  charcoal 
should  be  renewed  every  time  a filter  is  cleansed.  Fresh  charcoal  may  be 
used  or  the  old  may  be  renewed  by  heating  to  redness  in  a close  vessel,  ex- 
cluding air.  The  gravel  and  sand  and  the  inside  of  the  filter  vessel  reser- 
voir for  filtered  and  unfiltered  water,  should  be  thoroughly  cleansed  when- 
ever the  filter  is  taken  apart  for  cleansing.  The  surest  way  to  secure  thor- 
ough cleansing  is  to  boil  the  gravel  and  sand  in  a large  kettle  or  wash  boiler 
for  half  an  hour,  rinsing  out  the  filtering  vessels  with  boiling  water.  After 
tinsing  all  well  with  clean  water,  wash  everything  with  a strong  solution  of 
permanganate  of  potash  and  caustic  potash.  A solution  of  the  permanganate 
and  four  of  crude  caustic  potash  in  a pailful  of  water  will  be  sufficient  for  an 
ordinary  filter.  If  the  permanganate  solution  becomes  brown  by  the  wash- 
ing more  must  be  used,  until  a pinkish  color  remains  when  the  gravel  is 
rinsed.  This  will  indicate  that  all  impurities  are  removed.  A few  gallons 
of  water  will  suffice  to  rinse  away  the  remains  of  the  permanganate,  and  the 
filter  may  be  repacked  as  before,  with  fresh  charcoal  as  directed.  The  closer 
Vhe  filtering  medium  if  packed,  the  slower  the  water  will  filter  through,  but 
the  more  perfect  will  be  the  purification. 

How  to  Kindle  A Coal  Fire. — Hard  coal  will  not  ignite  until  it  is  thor- 
oughly heated  through  and  through,  and  as  small  coal  will  not  require  as 
much  wood  to  heat  it  up  as  large,  it  is  important,  where  the  supply  of 
kindling  wood  is  limited,  that  the  pieces  of  coal  which  touch  the  wood 
should  be  small.  As  wood  in  cities  is  more  expensive  than  coal,  economy 
^suggests  the  use  of  as  little  as  practicable.  The  coal,  then,  for  kindling, 
should  not  only  be  as  small  as  a pigeon’s  egg,  called  “chestnut  coal”  by  the 
dealers  but  to  economize  the  wood,  the  pieces  should  not  be  over  four  inches 
ong,  so  that  they  can  be  laid  compactly,  and  tke  heat  more  concentrated 
on  a given  point  of  coal,  and  thus  the  sooner  heat  it  through.  If  the  wood 
is  thus  placed,  and  is  covered  with  one  layer  of  chestnut  coal,  it  will  redden 
with  great  rapidity  and  certainty.  Now  cover  the  reddened  coal  with  an- 
other layer  or  two,  and  in  a minute  or  two  put  on  the  large  size.  Put  a 
handful  of  shavings  or  paper  in  a grate  compactly,  then  some  splinters  of 
dry  wood,  not  larger  than  the  little  finger,  and  outside  of  that  a layer  of 
pieces  an  inch  or  more  thick  and  three  or  four  long ; apply  a match  to  the 
paper,  and  while  it  is  catching  put  on  small  coal  as  above,  and  there  will 
not  be  a failure  during  the  winter,  nor  a growl  in  the  household,  for  the 


1004 


EITGHEN  WRINKLKS. 


want  of  a good  and  timely  fire.  To  lessen  a coal  fire,  press  it  fron*  xlie  top, 
so  as  to  make  the  mass  more  compact,  giving  less  room  for  air.  To  revive 
it,  lay  on  small  pieces  tenderly ; put  on  the  blower,  and  when  red,  add  larger 
pieces,  and  ridclle  out  from  below.  Heaping  on  more  coal,  or  letting  out 
the  ashes  below,  will  certainly  put  out  a low  coal  fire. 

How  To  Use  Coal  Economically . — The  Scientific  American  says : There  is 
a great  want  of  intelligence  regarding  the  burning  of  coal,  and  it  is  not  to  be 
expected  that  servants  should  know  how  to  save  it.  The  grate  or  range  is 
stufied  so  full  that  the  oven-top  is  loaded  with  it,  so  the  fire  will  not  die  out 
or  need  looking  after;  then  the  draft  is  opened,  and  the  money,  or  what  is  the 
same,  the  heat,  goes  flying  up  the  chimney.  With  a little  forethought  all 
tliis  could  be  prevented,  and  a ton  of  coal  made  to  last  three  months  instead 
of  one.  A good  bright  fire  can  be  steadily  maintained  with  coal,  with  less 
trouble  than  with  any  other  kind  of  fuel,  but  not  by  raking,  poking,  and  piling 
in  green  fuel  continually.  After  breakfast  the  fire  should  be  cleared  of  ashes, 
if  tliere  are  any,  and  fresh  fuel  put  on  to  fill  the  grate  moderately.  Let  the 
oven  damper  be  turned  up  so  as  to  heat  it,  and  leave  the  small  top  door  open, 
more  or  less,  according  to  the  intensity  of  heat  required.  In  this  way  air  en- 
ters over  the  top  of  the  fire,  and  maintains  a far  better  combustion,  and  con- 
sequently greater  heat  than  when  the  draft-dampers  are  thrown  down.  A 
washing  can  be  done,  or  “ironing”  accomplished  with  one-third  less  coal 
than  is  generally  thought  necessary  to  use.  There  is  also  great  waste  in 
throwing  away  half-burned  coal  under  the  impression  that  it  is  cinders.  One 
•who  has  experimented  with  coal  for  twenty  years,  both  in  the  house  and  un- 
der the  boiler,  writes : In  cleaning  the  grate  in  the  morning  you  will  find 
there  is  a quantity  of  unbiirned  coal,  which  has  been  externally" subjected  to 
combustion.  It  is  covered  with  ashes,  and  looks  to  the  inexperiencea  eye 
like  cinder.  It  is  often  relentlessly  dumped  into  the  ash-box.  The  fact,  in 
many  cases,  is,  that  the  lump  is  only  roasted  on  the  outside,  not  even  coked, 
and  is  in  a better  condition  for  igniting  than  the  fresh  coal.  We  have  stated 
that  coal  is  a condensed  form  of  carbon.  The  superficially  burned  lumps, 
found  in  our  grates  or  among  our  ashes,  sufficiently  prove  this.  But  take  a 
lump  of  anthracite  coal  from  the  fire,  red-hot  and  all  alive,  throw  it  into  the 
■W'ater  until  the  ashes  are  washed  from  it,  and  it  is  black  externally  and  cool. 
Take  it  out  and  break  it  open  with  a hammer,  and  you  will  find  it  red-hot  and 
glowing  inside.  This  sho'ws  that  time,  and  a pleantiful  supplly  of  air  are 
necessary  to  burn  coal,  and  that  large  amounts  of  what  we  call  ashes  and 
cinders  are  really  excellent  fuel.  To  prove  this  fact,  let  any  one  carefully 
sift  his  ashes,  throwing  out  the  inevitable  slate,  which  can  be  readily  detect- 
ed, and  start  his  coal  fire  on  wood  or  charcoal,  kindling  his  coal  fire  with  the 
savings.  He  will  find  that  he  can  get  a good  bed  of  incandescent  coal  sooner 
than  with  green  coal  on  the  kindlings.  Never,  whether  rich  or  poor,  suffer 
cinders  or  unburned  bits  of  coal  to  be  wasted  in  the  ash-barrel.  Measure  for 
measure,  they  are  worth  more  than  coal.  Save  them,  soak  them,  try  theni. 
Water  renovates  the  coke,  and  wet  cinders  upon  a hot  coal  fire  will  make  it 
hotter,  and  keep  it  so  longer  than  fresh  coal.  Saving  cinders  is  not  mean- 
ness, it  is  economy. 

Flavoring  Extracts,  Fruit  Juices,  etc. — The  following  directions  for  the 
preparation  at  home  of  extracts,  etc.,  are  contributed  by  a trustworthy  and 
leliable  dealer,  and  may  be  relied  upon.  Of  flavoring  extracts  put  up  for  the 
general  market,  almond  and  peach  are  seldom  pure,  and  are  sometimes  even 
poisonous.  The  other  kinds  are  less  liable  to  be  adulterated.  To  prepare 
Vanilla,  take  one  ounce  of  fresh  vanilla  beans,  cut  fine,  and  rub*  thoroughly 
with  two  ounces  granulated  sugar,  put  in  a pint  bottle,  and  pour  over  it  four 
ounces  pure  water,  and  ten  ounces  of  ninety-five  per  cent  deoderized  alcohol. 
Set  in  a warm  place,  and  shake  occasionally  for  fourteen  days.  To  make  IV 


KITCHEN  VVKINKLES. 


1005 


nilla  Sugar  take  one  pound  sugar  and  one  ounce  Mexican  vanilla  bepi.  Cut 
bean  very  nne,  pound  in  a mortar,  with  the  sugar,  to  a fine  powder,  like  flour, 
sift  it,  grind  the  remainder  and  sift  till  all  is  done  ; then  bottle  and  cork.  It 
will  keep  for  any  length  of  time.  A wire  sieve  will  allow  the  seeds  of  the  bean, 
which  show  the  purity  of  the  flour,  to  pass  through  with  the  powdered  sugar. 
For  Lemon,  cut  in  small  pieces  the  rinds  of  two  lemons  put  in  a four-ounce 
bottle  and  fill  with  deodorized  strong  alcohol,  set  in  a warm  place  for  a week ; 
then  put  two  drams  fresh  oil  of  lemon,  four  ounces  of  deodorized  strong  alco- 
hol, and  the  juice  of  half  a lemon,  in  a bottle  of  sufficient  size  to  holdall; 
then  strain  in  the  tincture  of  lemon  peal.  To  make  Orange,  use  the  rind  and 
oil  of  orange,  as  directed  for  lemon.  To  make  Rose,  put  one  ounce  of  red  rose 
leaves  in  one  pint  of  deodorized  alcohol,  let  stand  eight  days ; press  out  the 
liquid  from  the  leaves,  and  add  it  to  a half  dram  of  otto  of  roses.  Oils  must 
be  fresh  and  pure,  or  the  extract  will  have  a turpentine  taste  ; and  always 
use  deodorized  alcohol.  For  fruit  juices,  select  ripe  fruit,  press  out  juice,  and 
strain  it  through  flannel ; to  each  pint  of  juice,  add  six  ounces  pure  granulat- 
ed sugar,  put  in  a porcelain  kettle,  bring  to  boiling  point,  and  bottle  while 
hot,  in  two  or  four  ounce  bottles.  Canned  fruit  juice  may  be  used  in  the 
same  way.  These  juices  are  a perfect  substitute  for  brandy,  wine,  etc.,  in  all 
puddings,  and  sauces,  etc.  To  filter  water  and  alcoholic  solutions  (not  syrups) 
pass  through  filtering  paper,  folded  in  conical  form,  so  as  to  set  into  a funnel 
(a  half-pint  glass  funnel  is  best.)  The  paper  is  kept  at  all  drug  stores. 

Flour  and  Bread. — A wonderful  advance  has  been  made  in  the  manu- 
facture of  flour.  Before  the  discovery  of  the  gradual  reduction  or  ‘^New 
process”  in  milling,  white  flour  contained  but  a part  of  the  nutriment  of  the 
wheat  kernel,  the  starch  remaining,  while  the 
muscle-making  and  brain-feeding  gluten  went 
into  the  bran  and  other  waste  products  and  was 
sold  for  feed.  IVinter  wheat  was  then  used  for 
the  best  grades  of  flour,  the  small,  dark  and  hard 
kernels  of  the  Northern  grow'n  Spring  wheat  mak- 
ing so  dark  a flour  that  it  was  only  sold  as  an  in- 
ferior grade.  The  introducing  the  “new  i)rocess” 
by  which  the  grain  is  gradually  reduced  to  flour  by  passing  through  a set  of 
steel  rollers,  each  of  which  crushes  the  grain  a little  finer  than  the  last,  not 
only  revolutionized  milling,  but  produced  from  the  heretofore  despised 
Spring  wdieat,  the  finest  flour  in  the  world  which  sells  in  all  markets  at  th6' 
highest  price,  makes  finer  bread  and  several  loaves  more  to  the  barrel  than 
the  best  product  of  Winter  wheat.  In  the  day  of  Graham,  who  advocated 
unbolted  flour,  it  was  true  that  the  loaf  of  white  bread  did  not  contain  much 
of  the  most  valuable  nutrition  of  the  wheat.  The  white  flour  of  modem 
milling  does  contain  all  that  is  valuable.  The  bran  left  by  the  ‘hiew  pro- 
cess” contains  Ifttle  that  is  valuable  in  any  way  as  food.  The  only  advant- 
age gained  by  eatfng  corn  bread,  is  the  evidence  of  concentrated  food,  but 
fruit  and  vegetables  would  supply  the  bulk  required  much  bet- 
ter than  the  harsh  and  flinty  and,'  to  many,  irritating  particles  of 
bran.  Modern  white  flour  possesses  a much  larger  proportion 
of  phosphates  and  gluten  i.han  che  old  fashioned  Graham  ; indeed 
morethan  the  wheat  itself.  There  is,  however,  a great  difference 
of  opinion  as  to  the  comparative  merits  of  bread  made  from  fine 
flour,  and  Graham,  or  whole  w'heat  flour.  The  latter  is  consid- 
for  persons  who  lead  sedentary  lives,  as  the  coarse  par- 
^ tides  stimulate  the  digestive  organs,  causing  the  fluids  to  flow 

more  freely;  while  for  those  who  follow  active,  out  of  door  pursuits  the  New 
Process  flour  is  probably  best  as  being  more  nutritious  and  economieal,  b©- 
eause  wholly  digested. 


1006 


KITCHEN  WRINKLE^, 


This  process”  of  milling  was  first  perfectofi  in  this  country  at  Min- 

neapolis, Minnesota,  the  mills  of  which  now  have  a capacity  of  35,000,000 
bushels  of  wheat  annually,  and  the  brands  of  Minneayolis  flour  are  known  in 
every  market  in  the  world  as  the  best.  Nearly  a million  and  a quarter  barrels 
of  flour  are  being  exported  yearly.  The  wheat  from  which  this  flour  is  made 
is  the  hard  spring  wheat,  raised  in  the  extreme  North,  that  raised  south  of 
Minnesota  and  Dakota  being  inferior,  and  most  of  it  not  available  for  the  best 
grades,  while  that  raised  on  the  line  of  the  Northern  Pacific,  and  in  the  rich 
valley  of  the  Red  Riv.er  of  the  North,  makes  the  very  highest  grades  of  flour. 
This  hard  wheat  is  first  passed  through  rollers  and  mashed  ; then  to  stones, 
wdiich  are  run  at  a low  rate  of  speed,  and  so  dressed  that  the  grinding  is  nearly 
all  done  near  the  outer  edge  of  the  stone,  the  “runner”  being  set  high,  so  as 
not  to  heat  the  flour,  but  to  leave  it  in  hard,  sharp  globules.  From  this  stone 
it  is  conveyed  to  a series  of  bolts,  where  the  bran  is  separated,  the  softer  and 
finer  particles  being  passed  through  and  put  up  as  lower  grades  of  flour, 
knowuias  “All-Wheat  Flour.”  The  coarser  particles  and  “midlings”  are  sep- 
arated ]jy  this  process,  and  conveyed  to  the  purifiers,  where  they  are  thor- 
oughly cleaned  of  all  bran  and  impurities  ; after  which,  they  go  to  the  stone? 
to  be  reground  and  rebolted,  and  thus  made  into  the  “New  Process  Flour.’ 
These  middlings  are  mainly  from  the  outer  portion  of  the 
kernel,  which  lies  immediately  below  the  flinty  and  worth- 
less husk  (which  goes  off  in  bran)  and  is  rich  in  the  nutri- 
tious gluten — the  nitrogenous  principle  of  wheat  which 
makes  it  rank  first  as  a “force  producing”  food.  Before 
the  introduction  of  this  process,  the  stones  w^ere  driven  at 
a high  rate  of  speed,  and  the  wheat  thoroughly  ground  by 
the  first  run  through  the  mill,  the  flour  coming  out  quite 
hot,  and  much  of  its  strength  lost  by  the  heating.  The  comparative  rate  of 
speed  may  be  knowm  by  the  fact  that  only  five  bushels  are  ground  per  hour 
by  the  new^  process  ; while,  with  the  old,  from  fifteen  to  eighteen  would  have 
loeen  consumed.  By  the  old  process,  the  “middlings”  made  a second  rate 
dark  flour ; by  the  new,  it  is  transformed  into  the  best  known  to  the  trade. 

That  this  flour  is  the  most  economical  for  use,  there  is  no  doubt  among 
those  who  have  tried  it.  The  hard  spring  wheat  makes  a much  stronger  floul 
than  any  of  the  soft  varieties  of  spring  or  winter  wheat,  because  it  contains 
a larger  portion  of  gliitten  and  less  starch  ; and  a given  quantity  will  make 
from  fifteen  to  twenty  per  cent,  more  loaves  of  bread  of  the  same  size  and 
weight  than  the  best  winter  wheat  flour.  This  fact  is  what  has  given  Mim 
nesota  bakers’  grades  their  popularity.  Another  advantage  possessed  bj 
t his  flour,  especially  for  family  use,  is  that  bread  from  it  does  not  become 
stale  and  dry  as  soon  as  that  made  from  winter  wheat,  but  retains  its  mois- 
ture and  good  table  qualities  much  longer. 

The  following  in  regard  to  the  New  Process  Flour  is  from  George  H 
Christian,  Esq.,  who  has  spent  years  in  studying  the  best  methods  in  use  it 
this  country  and  Europe,  and  is  the  largest  manufacturer  in  the  Unitec 
States. 


“In  regard  to  the  economy  of  the  New  Process  Flour,  made  from  Min- 
nesota spring  wheat,  it  is  claimed,  and  I believe  has  been  established,  tha'’" 
the  best  qualities  will  make  forty  or  fifty  pounds  of  bread  to  the  barrel  moro 
than  flour  from  the  best  quality  of  winter  wheat.  This  is  explained  by  ita 
superior  aflinity  for  water  which,  being  held  in  that  much  greater  quantity 
in  the  bread,  insures  its  keeping  moist  for  a longtime.  The  authorities  give 
the  chemical  analysis  as  20  parts  glutten,  50  parts  starch,  10  parts  dextrine, 
glucose,  etc.,  5 parts  salts,  fatty  material,  etc.,  and  15  parts  water,  for  flour 
made  from  the  best  Minnesota  spring  wheat  by  the  new  process.  The  above 
percentage  of  glutten  is  nearly  double  that  of  flour  made  from  tlie  soft  vari- 


KITCHEN  WRINKLES. 


1007 


•tieB  of  wheat  (that  of  Minnesota  is  of  the  hard) . Gluten  is  the  most  im- 
portant compound  of  flour,  and  is  the  substance  which  renders  the  dough 
firm,  and  gives  it  sufficient  consistency  to  hold  the  gases,  generated  by  fer- 
mentation, long  enough  to  make  it  rise  well,  and  ensure  a light  palatable 
bread.  It  is  well  known  also  that  bread  from  spring  wheat  is  sweeter.  The 
percentage  of  gluten  in  New  Process  Flour  is  more  than  in  flour  made  of  the 
same  wheat  by  the  old  process.” 

In  the  process  of  modern  milling,  not  only  is  every  foreign  substance  re- 
moved from  the  wheat,  but  every  individual  kernel  is  rubbed  clean  by  an 
ingenious  arrangement  of  brushes,  which  scours  away  every  particle  of 
dirt  that  adheres  to  it.  There  is  probably  no  article  of  food  required  in 
housekeeping  so  absolutely  and  perfectly  clean  and  pure  as  flour  as  it  comes 
from  the  mill.  Dishonest  dealers  may  adulterate  it,  but  it  ought  not  to  be 
difficult  to  bring  it  in  unbroken  packages  with  the  brand  of  the  mill  on  them 
as  a guarantee  of  purity,  as  most  mills  now  put  the  flour  up  in  neat  half  bar- 
rels for  family  use.  Another  flour  which  makes  palatable  and  wholesome 
bread  is  made  by  a secret  process  and  is  called  ‘‘White  Wheat  Flour.  ” It 
is  of  a golden  brown  color,  and  makes  a handsome  loaf,  somewhat  sweeter 
to  the  taste  than  the  white  flour.  Much  is  claimed  for  it  as  a complete  food 
especiallj^  valuable  for  invalids  or  children  and  is  useful  to  build  up  the 
wastes  ot  the  body  and  in  many  forms  of  disease.  It  is  used  in  the  same 
manner  as  the  fine  flour  in  bread-making.  Graham  flour  of  the  old  fashioned 
kind,  as  usually  found  in  the  market  is  unfit  for  food.  It  is  made  of  the 
poorest  quality  of  wheat,  mixed  with  foul  seeds,  and  ground  in  a crude  way 
with  none  of  the  care  and  neatness  which  characterizes  the  process  of  mak- 
ing fine  flour.  There  are  mills,  however,  like  those  at  Dansville,  New  York, 
which  make  a specialty  of  Graham  flour  from  selected  wheat,  and  produce 
an  article  which  makes  a delicious  and  wholesome  bread,  not  unlike  but 
somewhat  coarser  than  the  Whole  Wheat  flour  mentioned  above.  These 
various  forms  of  flour  from  wheat,  are  used  for  making  bread  in  the  usual 
way,  which  in  most  families  is  and  ought  to  be  the  “staff*  of  life.”  Of  many 
other  preparations  of  wheat  none  has  been  made  under  appropriate  heading 
before. 

Flour  from  rye  and  meal  from  oats  and  Indian  corn  are  all  rich  in  waste 
repairing  elements,  and  an  excellent  and  cheaper  substitute  for  wheat  kept 
in  bread-making . The  frequent  use  of  either  gives  variety  in  the  bread-sup- 
ply, and  variety  is  wholesome  and  appetizing  in  bread  as  well  as  other  table 
supplies. 

The  proportion  of  gluten  in  wheat,  and  consequently  in  flour,  varies 
greatly  in  different  varieties.  Flour  in  which  gluten  is  abundant  will  absorb 
much  more  liquid  than  that  which  contains  a greater  proportion  of  starch, 
and  consequently  is  stronger;  that  is,  will  make  more  bread  to  a given 
quantity.  Gluten  is  a flesh-former,  and  starch  a heat-giver,  in  the  nutritive 
processes  of  the  body.  Flour  containing  a good  proportion  of  gluten  remains 
a compact  mass  when  compressed  in  the  hand,  while  starchy  flour  crumbles 
and  lacks  adhesive^  properties.  Neither  gluten  or  starch  dissolve  in  cold 
water.  The  glutends  a grayish,  tough,  elastic  substance.  In  yeast-bread, 
the  yeast,  in  fermenting,  combines  with  the  sugar  in  the  flour  and  the  sugar 
which  has  been  added  to  the  flour,  and  carbonic  acid  gas  and  alcohol  are 
produced.  The  gas  tries  to  escape,  but  is  confined  by  the  elastic,  strong 
gluten  which  forms  the  walls  of  the  cells  in  which  it  is  held,  its  expansion 
changing  the  solid  dough  into  a light,  spongy  mass.  The  kneading  process 
distributes  the  yeast  thoroughly  through  the  bread,  making  the  grain  even. 
The  water  used  in  mixing  the  bread  softens  the  gluten,  and  cements  all  the 
particles  of  flour  together,  ready  for  the  action  of  the  carbonic  acid  gas.  In 
baking,  the  loaf  grows  larger  as  the  heat  expands  the  carbonic  acid  gas,  and 
converts  the  water  into  steam  and  the  alcohol  into  vapor,  but  it,  meantime. 


1008 


KITCHEN  WRINKLES. 


loses  one-sixth  of  its  weight  by  the  escape  of  these  through  the  pores  of  the 
bread.  Some  of  the  starch  changes  into  gum,  the  cells  of  the  rest  are  broken 
by  the  heat,  the  gluten  is  softened  and  made  tender,  and  the  bread  is  in  the 
condition  most  easily  acted  upon  by  the  digestive  fluids. 

Cider  Vinegar  can  be  made  easily  and  quickly  if  the  following  directions 
are  followed : When  cider  is  made,  save  the  pomace  and  put  it  in  tight  bar- 
rels or  hogs-heads,  with  one  head  out,  and  put  in  enough  rainwater  to  cover 
it.  After  it  has  begun  to  ferment,  draw  off  from  the  bottom  all  that  you  can, 
dilute  the  cider  with  it,  and  nearly  two  barrels  of  vinegar  can  be  made  of  one 
of  cider.  Do  not  fill  barrels  in  which  the  cider  is  to  be  made  quite  full,  as 
there  should  be  a space  for  air.  Put  into  each  barrel  one  or  two  pounds  of 
bread  dough,  in  the  condition  it  is  in  when  kneeding  out  into  loaves.  Once 
a day,  for  a few  weel^s,  draw  out  from  each  barrel  a gallon  of  the  cider  and 
pour  it  into  the  bung-hole,  so  as  to  get  air  into  it.  A quart  or  two  of  molasses 
are  recommended  as  a help,  and  beech  shavings  and  brown  paper  are  often 
used  to  hasten  the  acetic  fermentation ; but  we  think  the  bread  dough  is  best. 
If  the  vinegar  is  made  in  summer,  it  may  be  made  out  of  doors ; but  late  in 
the  fall  it  should  be  in  a room  where  the  temperature  can  be  kept  up  to  70  or 
80  degrees  by  stove  heat.  For  quick  cider  vinegar,  fill  a jug  with  cider,  and 
torn  into  each  gallon  of  cider  a pint  of  molasses  and  a cupful  of  lively  soft 
5 east,  or  two  tablespooiis  of  Brookside  yeast.  Have  the  jug  full  of  the  liquid, 
li  it  it  stand  uncorkqd  back  of  the  cook-stove  where  it  will  keep  warm.  It  will 
commence  fermenting  in  twenty-four  hours,  and  will  not  take  over  a week  to 
make  splendid  sharp  vinegar.  It  must  be  drawn  off  into  another  jug,  leaving 
the  dregs,  and  kept  in  a tight-corked  jug  or  bottles,  where  it  will  not  freeze. 

The  Brookside  Yeast  is  made  by  sitrring  together  three  tablespoons  mash- 
ed potatoe  tablespoon  white  sugar,  level  teaspoon  salt  and  quarter  of  a yeast 
cake,  soften  sufficient  to  mix  well.  After  mixing  place  in  an  earthen  bowl  or 
jar  cover  with  a saucer,  and  place  in  a place  of  a moderate  temperature,  ready 
for  use  next  day,  but  will  keep  a week  or  more  in  summer,  and  three  or  four 
weeks  in  winter.  To  make  more  take  a tablespoon  of  above  and  add  it  to 
three  or  four  times  above  recipe  omitting  the  yeast  cake.  This  is  never  failing 
and  very  easily  made  and  kept. 

Corn  Vinegar. — Boil  one  pint  shelled  corn  in  one  gallon  rain  water  till 
the  grains  burst,  put  in  a stone  jar  with  the  water  in  which  it  was  boiled, 
adding  sufficient  rain  water  to  make  a gallon.  Add  pint  of  syrup  (sugarcane 
is  best  as  it  is  not  so  likely  to  be  adulterated)  and  tie  a piece  of  cheese  cloth, 
or  two  thicknesses  of  mosqueto  netting  over  jar.  Keep  in  a warm  place  one 
month,  then  pour  off  vinegar  in  a jug,  putting  in  half  the  mother  and  it  is 
ready  for  use.  More  can  be  made  of  same  corn,  by  covering  it  with  rain  water, 
adding  the  half  of  the  mother  and  a gill  of  syrup  and  let  stand  as  above  one 
month.  Tie  a thin  cloth  over  jug  of  vinegar  instead  of  corking  it  and  keep  in 
a dry  place  not  too  cold.  This  costs  about  seven  cents  a gallon  and  is  said  to 
be  richer  and  better  flavored  than  the  best  cider  vinegar  and  is  equally  good 
for  most  purposes. 

Economical  Vinegar.— MiQY  washing  the  fruit,  discarding  -all  that  is  rot- 
ten, place  the  pealings  of  apples,  pears,  peaches  or  quinces  in  a stone  crock. 
If  you  use  any  crab  apples,  put  them  in  too ; boil  pure  rain  water  and  pour 
hot  over  them ; if  in  cold  weather  they  can  stand  several  weeks  then  place 
in  a porcelain  kettle,  covering  them  with  water  to  the  depth  of  two  inches  ; 
set  on  stove,  let  them  boil  for  half  an  hour,  strain  through  a cullender,  let  the 
juice  stand  until  it  settles,  then  add  enough  molasses  to  make-  a pleasant 
taste ; now  pour  it  into  the  keg  or  vinegar  barrel  that  has  been  prepared  with 
a hole  for  faucet  in  the  end  of  the  barrel  at  the  lower  side,  made  the  size  ol 
faucet ; it  should  be  one  inch  from  the  stave,  so  that  it  can  be  easily  cleansed 


KITCHEN  WRINKLES. 


1009 


with  a wet  cloth  wrapped  around  the  finger  and  passed  under  the  faucet. 
The  bung  hole  ought  to  be  in  the  upper  side  of  barrel  equally  distant  from 
each  end.  Take  cork  out  of  bung  hole,  or  if  none  in  barrel  make  one,  and 
cover  it  with  a piece  of  mosqueto  netting  or  other  very  thin  material ; paste 
can  be  put  around  the  hole,  and  the  cloth  put  on  it,  or  tack  it  on  with  small 
tacks — either  will  do,  for  you  have  to  lift  up  one  corner  so  as  to  place  the  fun- 
nel in  when  you  wish  to  add  more  juice.  Here  in  Minnesoto,  many  apples 
are  used  in  the  winter.  All  the  pealings  and  cores  can  be  saved,  by  placing 
them  in  a crock,  pouring  water  over  them,  keeping  them  until  crock  is  full. 
Then  boil  and  proceed  as  above.  Add  one  pint  alcohol  to  eight  or  ten  gallons 
of  juice,  or  if  you  can  get  boiled  cider  add  one  gallon  of  that.  If  starting  the 
vinegar  in  the  fall  w'hile  making  jelly,  marmalade,  etc.,  save  all  the  waste 
juices,  place  in  a crock  and  add  to  the  vinegar.  If  you  can  get  a little  ‘‘mother” 
from  an  old  keg  of  vinegar,  it  helps  start  it  more  quickly,- or  put  a cup  of  good 
sponge  made  ready  for  bread  into  a four  gallon  jar  of  juice,  letting  jar  stand 
in  the  sun  with  a thin  cloth  tied  over  it  for  a few  weeks  ; then  pour  into  keg. 
In  putting  the  juice  into  keg  let  some  of  the  settlings  run  in,  as  this  furnishes 
yeast  for  the  vinegar.  If  you  have  a large  quantity  of  juice  to  start  with,  a good 
proportion  is  to  eight  or  ten  gallons  of  juice  take  one  gallon  of  molasses,  one 

gint  alcohol.  If  at  any  time  it  needs  more  sweet,  you  can  add  molasses. 

old  tea  can  be  added,  but  never  coffee,  as  that  makes  the  color  too  dark. 
After  the  meal  is  over,  fill  the  teapot  with  hot  water,  set  on  stove  to  steep ; 
when  sufficiently  steeped  pour  into  the  vinegar.  The  excellence  of  the  vine- 
gar is  that  you  know  all  the  ingredients  in  it,  and  of  every  apple  that  is  eaten 
the  peeling  can  be  used.  Teach  the  help  to  save  all  the  peelings  when  she 
makes  apple  or  peach  sauce,  and  even  when  one  or  two  apples  are  pared  save 
the  peeling. 

A young  housekeeper  once  had  half  a barrel  of  excellent  vinegar,  which 
her  husband  had  brought  from  the  store.  As  it  was  old  and  had  many  set- 
tlings in  it,  she  thought  she  would  cleans  it,  so  pouring  it  out,  she  rinsed  her 
barrel  thoroughly  with  hot  water,  then  strained  the  vinegar  through  a flan- 
nel cloth,  and  replaced  it  in  the  barrel.  Some  time  afterward  she  drew  out 
«ome  of  the  vinegar,  but  it  had  lost  all  its  good  taste  and  was  covered  with  a 
white  scum.  She  was  sorely  vexed,  but  an  old  friend  coming  in  at  the  time, 
told  her  she  had  thrown  away  the  life  of  the  vinegar.  Had  she  kept  some  of 
the  settlings  (which  is  the  yeast  of  the  vinegar)  and  the  mother,  putting  them 
In  the  barrel  when  she  replaced  the  vinegar,  all  would  have  been  right.  Hap- 
pily her  friend  had  plenty  of  old  vinegar  and  gave  her  a pail  of  settlings  and 
mother  to  add  to  the  vinegar.  In  years  mother  will  accumulate,  so  that  it  is 
necessary  to  throw  some  away.  In  such  cases  always  keep  some  of  the  large 
pieces  of  mother  and  some  of  the  floating  particles  (a  funny  writer  has  called 
this  the  father),  and  some  settlings  to  put  in  the  vinegar,  after  it  is  returned 
to  the  barrel.  While  the  vinegar  is  making  it  should  never  be  more  than  half 
full ; after  it  is  good  vinegar  small  quantities  of  juice,  either  hot  or  cold,  can 
be  added  until  the  barrel  is  two-thirds  full.  A better  way  is  to  have  a second 
keg  into  which  pour  the  fresh  juices  with  a little  molasses,  (but  no  alcohol), 
and  as  the  good  yinegar  is  used  out  of  the  barrel  it  can  be  replenished  from 
keg.  Or,  having  no  keg,  draw  off  one  or  two  gallons  or  good  vinegar  into  a 
jug  for  immediate  use,  then  add  the  fresh  juices,  as  you  may  have  it,  to  bar- 
rel. By  the  time  vinegar  in  jug  is  used  all  will  have  become  good  in  barrel 
and  ready  for  use.  These  things  remembered  and  practiced  will  always  in- 
sure good  vinegar.  Sometimes  vinegar  barrel  will  leak  around  the  chine, 
when  it  is  inconvenient  to  change  barrel.  To  stop  the  leak,  take  equal  parts 
of  tallow  (beef  or  mutton)  and  wood  ashes.  Mix  well  (in  cold  weather  you 
may  have  to  warm  the  tallow),  then  with  a narrow  bladed  knife  spread  it 
around  the  chine,  pressing  it  firmly  into  the  crack  and  making  it  smooth  on 
surface.  This  has  kept  vinegar  from  leaking  for  months  and  years.  If 
64 


1010 


KITCHEN  WRINKLES. 


wanted  extra  nice  clarify  molasses  by  heating  it  over  the  fire  and  pour  in  one 
pint  of  sweet  milk  to  each  gallon  of  molasses.  The  impurities  rise  in  scum 
to  the  top,  which  must  be  skimmed  off  before  the  boiling  breaks  it.  Add 
the  milk  as  soon  as  molasses  is  placed  over  the  fire,  mixing  thoroughly 
with  it. 

Gooseberry  Vinegar. — Wash  two  pecks  quite  ripe  gooseberries  in  a tub 
with  a mallet  and  add  six  gallons  water,  about  milk  warm  ; let  stand  twenty- 
four  hours,  then  strain  through  a sieve,  add  twelve  pounds  sugar,  stir  well, 
and  put  in  nine-gallon  cask ; if  not  quite  full  more  water  must  be  added.  Stir 
the  mixture  from  bottom  of  cask  two  or  three  times  daily  for  three-  or  four 
days,  to  assist  the  melting  of  the  sugar ; then  paste  a piece  of  linen  cloth  over 
the  bunghole,  and  set  the  cask  in  a warm  place,  but  not  in  the  sun  ; any  cor- 
ner of  a warm  kitchen  is  the  best  place  for  it.  The  following  spring  it  would 
be  drawn  off  into  stone  bottles,  and  the  vinegar  will  be  fit  for  use  twelve 
months  after  it  is  made.  This  will  be  found  a most  excellefit  preparatioji, 
greatly  superior  to  much  that  is  sold  under  the  name  of  the  best  white  wine 
vinegar.  Many  years’  experience  has  proved  that  pickle  made  with  this 
vinegar  will  keep,  when  bought  vinegar  will  not  preserve  the  ingredients. 
The  cost  per  gallon  is  merely  nominal,  especially  to  those  who  have  their 
own  fruit.  Let  remain  in  cask  nine  months. 

Rhubarb  Vinegar, — For  ten  gallons,  take  twenty -five  ordinary  stalks  of 
rhubarb,  pound  or  crush  with  a piece  of  wood  in  bottom  of  a strong  tub,  add 
ten  gallons  water ; let  stand  twenty-four  hours;  strain  off  the  crushed  rhu- 
barb, and  add  eighteen  pounds  sugar  free  from  molasses,  and  a teacup  best 
brewer’s  yeast;  raise  the  temperature  to  65  or  68°,  and  put  the  compound  in 
a twelve-gallon  cask  and  keep  where  the  temperature  will  nof  fall  below  60°. 
In  a month  strain  it  off  from  the  grounds,  returning  to  the  cask  again,  and 
let  stand  till  it  becomes  vinegar. 

Sauer  Kraut. — Slice  cabbage  fine  on  a slaw-cutter;  line  the  bottom  and 
sides  of  an  oaken  barrel  or  keg  with  cabbage  leaves,  put  in  a layer  of  the 
sliced  cabbage  about  six  inches  in  depth,  sprinkle  lightly  with  salt,  and 
pound  with  a vyooden  beetle  until  the  cabbage  is  a compact  mass ; add  an- 
other layer  of  cabbage,  etc.,  repeating  the  operation,  pounding  well  each 
layer,  until  the  barrel  is  full  to  within  six  inches  of  the  top ; cover  with 
leaves,  then  a cloth,  next  a board  cut  to  fit  loosely  on  the  inside  of  barrel, 
kept  well  down  with  a heavy  weight.  If  the  brine  has  not  raised  within  two 
days,  add  enough  water,  with  just  salt  enough  to  taste,  to  cover  the  cabbage  ; 
examine  every  two  days,  and  add  water  as  before,  until  brine  raises  and 
scum  forms,  when  lift  off  cloth  carefully  so  that  the  scum  may  adhere,  wash 
well  in  several  cold  waters,  wring  dry  and  replace,  repeating  this  operation 
as  the  scum  arises,  at  first  every  other  day,  and  then  once  a week,  until  the 
aceteous  fermentation  ceases,  which  will  take  from  three  to  six  weeks.  Up 
to  this  time  keep  warm  in  the  kitchen,  then  remove  to  a dry,  good  cellar, 
unless  made  early  in  the  fall,  when  it  may  be  at  once  set  in  the  pantry  or 
cellar.  One  pint  of  salt  to  a full  barrel  of  cabbage  is  a good  proportion; 
some  also  sprinkle  in  whole  black  pepper.  Or,  to  keep  until  summer : In 
April  squeeze  out  of  brine,  and  pack  tightly  with  the  hands,  in  a stone  jar, 
with  the  bottom  lightly  sprinkle  with  salt,  make  brine  enough  to  well  cover 
the  kraut  in  the  proportion  of  a tablespoon  salt  to  a quart  of  water ; boil, 
skim,  cool,  and  pour  over ; cover  with  cloth,  then  a plate,  weight,  and  an- 
other cloth  tied  closely  down ; keep  in  a cool  place,  and  it  will  be  good  in 
June,  Neither  pound  nor  salt  the  cabbage  too  much,  watch  closely,  and 
keep  clear  from  soum  for  good  sauerkraut. 


KITCHEN  WRINKLES. 


1011 


EXPLANATION  OP  FRENCH  TERMS  USED  IN  MODERN  DOMESTIC  COOKERY. 

Aspic. — A savoury  jelly,  used  as  an  exterior  moulding  for  cold  game, 
poultry,  fish,  etc.  This,  being  of  a transparent  nature,  allows  the  bird 
which  it  covers  to  be  seen  through  it.  This  may  also  be  used  for  decorating 
or  garnishing. 

Assiette  (plate). — Assiettes  are  the  small  entrees  and  hors  d’xuvres,  the 
quantity  of  which  does  not  exceed  what  a plate  will  hold.  At  dessert,  fruits^ 
cheese,  chestnuts,  etc,,  if  served  upon  a plate,  are  termed  assiettes.  Assiette 
Volante  is  a dish  which  a servant  hands  round  to  the  guests,  but  is  not  placed 
upon  the  table.  Small  cheese  souffles,  and  different  dishes  which  ought  to 
be  served  very  hot,  are  frequently  made  assiettes  volantes. 

Au-hleu. — Fish  dressed  in  such  a manner  as  to  have  a bluish  appearance. 

^‘Augratin.’’^ — Dishes  prepared  with  sauce  and  crumbs,  and  baked. 

Au  Naturel. — Plain,  simple  cookery. 

Bain-marie. — An  open  saucepan  or  kettle  of  nearly  boiling  water,  in 
which  a smaller  vessel  can  be  set  for  cooking  and  warming.  This  is  very 
useful  for  keeping  articles  hot,  without  altering  their  quantity  or  quality.  If 
you  keep  sauce,  broth,  or  soup  by  the  fireside,  the  soup  reduces  and  becomes 
too  strong,  and  the  sauce  thickens  as  well  as  reduces  ; but  this  is  prevented 
by  using  the  hain-ma.rie,  in  which  the  water  should  be  very  hot,  but  not 
boiling. 

‘‘Baba.’’ — A peculiar,  sweet  French  yeast  cake. 

Batterie  de  Cuisine. — Complete  set  of  cooking  apparatus. 

Bechamel. — French  white  sauce,  now  frequently  used  in  cookery. 

“Bisque.” — A white  soup  made  of  shell-fish. 

Blanch. — To  whiten  poultry,  vegetables,  fruit,  etc.,  by  plunging  them 
into  boiling  water  for  a short  time,  and  afterwards  plunging  them  into  cold 
water,  there  to  remain  until  they  are  cold. 

Blanquette, — A sort  of  fricasse. 

“Bouchees” — Very  tiny  patties  or  cakes,  as  name  indicates — mouthfuls. 

Bouilli. — Beef  or  other  meat  boiled ; but,  generally  speaking,  boiled  beef 
is  understood  by  the  term. 

Bouillie — A French  dish  resembling  hasty-pudding. 

Bouillon. — A thin  broth  or  soup. 

Bouquet  of  Herbs. — Parsley,  thyme,  and  green  onions,  tied  together. 

“Braise” — Meat  cooked  in  a closely  covered  stew-pan,  so  that  it  retains 
its  own  fiavor,  and  those  of  the  vegetables  and  flavoring  put  with  it.  It  is 
sometimes  previously  blanched. 

Braisiere. — A saucepan  having  a lid  with  ledges,  to  put  fire  on  the  top, 

Brider. — To  pass  a packthread  through  poultry,  game,  etc.,  to  keep  to- 
gether their  members. 

“Brioche” — A very  rich,  unsweetened  French  cake,  made  with  yeast. 

“Cannelon” — Stuffed,  rolled  up  meat. 


1012 


KITCHEN  WRINKLES. 


Caramel  (burnt  sugar). — This  is  made  with  a piece  of  sugar,  of  the  size 
of  a nut,  browned  in  the  iDottom  of  a saucepan  ; upon  which  a cupful  of  stock 
is  gradually  poured,  stirring  all  the  time,  little  by  little.  It  may  be  used 
with  the  feather  of  a quill,  to  colour  meats,  such  as  the  upper  part  of  frican- 
deaux  ; and  to  impart  color  to  sauces.  Caramel  made  with  water  instead  of 
stock  may  be  used  to  color  compotes  and  other  entremets. 

Casserole. — A crust  of  rice,  which  after  having  been  molded  into  the 
form  of  a pie,  is  baked  and  then  filled  with,  a fricasse  of  white  meat  or  a 
puree  of  game. 

Collops. — Small,  round,  thin  pieces  of  tender  meat,  or  of  fish,  beaten 
with  the  handle  of  a strong  knife  to  make  them  tender. 

Compote. — A stew,  as  of  fruit  or  pigeons. 

Consomme. — Rich  stock,  or  gravy,  or  clear  soup  or  bullion  boiled  down 
till  very  rich — i.  e.,  consumed. 

Coulis. — A rich  brown  gravy,  employed  for  flavoring,  coloring,  and 
thickening  certain  soups  and  sauces. 

Croquette. — Ball  of  fried  rice  and  potatoes,  or  a savory  mince  of  fish  or 
fowl,  made  with  sauce  into  chapes  and  fried. 

Croutons. — Sippets  of  bread. 

Croustades. — Fried  forms  of  bread  to  serve  minces  or  other  meats  upon. 

Dauhiere. — An  oval  stewpan  in  which  dauhes  are  cooked ; dauhes  being 
meat  or  fowl  stewed  in  sauce. 

^ Desosser. — To  hone,  or  take  out  the  bone  from  poultry,  game,  or  fish. 
This  is  an  operation  requiring  considerable  experience. 

En  Couronne. — Said  of  chops,  cutlets,  etc.,  when  they  are  arranged  round 
a central  mass  of  vegetables,  as  mashed  potatoes,  or  rice,  which  they  en- 
compass after  the  manner  of  a garland  or  wreath. 

Entrees. — Small  side  or  corner  dishes,  served  with  the  first  course. 

Entremets. — Small  side  or  corner  dishes,  served  with  the  second  course. 

Feuilletage. — Puff  paste. 

Flamher. — To  singe  fowl  or  game,  afj^er  they  have  been  picked. 

Foncer. — To  put  in  the  bottom  of  a saucepan  slices  of  ham,  veal,  or  thin 
broad  slices  of  bacon. 

Fondue. — A light  preparation  of  melted  cheese. 

Fondant. — Sugar  boiled,  and  beaten  to  creamy  paste. 

Fricassee. — Chickens,  etc.,  cut  in  pieces,  in  a white  sauce,  with  truffles, 
mushrooms,  etc.,  as  accessories. 

Galette. — A broad  thin  cake. 

Gateau. — A cake,  correctly  speaking ; but  used  sometimes  to  denote  a 
pudding,  and  a kind  of  tart. 

Gauffres. — A light  spongy  sort  of  biscuit. 

Glacer. — To  glaze,  or  spread  upon  hot  meats,  or  larded  fowl,  a thick  and 
rich  sauce  or  gravy,  called  glaze.  This  is  laid  on  with  a feather  or  brush; 
and  in  confectionery  the  term  means  to  ice  pastry  and  fruit  with  icing  which 
glistens  on. hardening. 


KITCHEN  WRINKLES. 


1018 


Glaze. — Stock  boiled  down  to  the  thickness  of  jelly  and  employed  to  im- 
prove the  look  of  braised  dishes. 

Gratin. — A French  force-meat  usually  of  poultry. 

Hollandaise  Sauce. — A rich  sauce,  something  like  hot  mayonnaise. 

Hors  D’  oeuvre  . — Small  dishes  or  assiettes  volantes  of  sardines,  anchovies 
and  other  relishes  of  this  kind  served  during  the  first  course. 

Lit. — A bed  or  layer ; articles  in  thin  slices  are  placed  in  layers  other 
articles  or  seasoning,  being  laid  between  them. 

Maigre. — Broth,  soup  or  gravy  made  without  meat. 

Marinade. — A liquor  of  spices,  vinegar  in  which  fish  and  meats  are 
steeped  without  cooking. 

Maletole. — A rich  fish  stew,  which  is  generally  composed  of  carp,  eels,  or 
trout.  It  is  generally  made  with  wine. 

Mayonnaise. — A rich  salad  dressing  or  sauce. 

Menu. — Bill  of  fare. 

Meringue. — A kind  of  icing,  made  of  white  of  eggs  and  sugar  well  beaten. 

Miroton. — Larger  slices  of  meat  than  collops ; such  as  slices  of  beef  for  a 
vinargrette  or  ragout  or  stew  of  onions  and  dished  in  circular  form. 

Mouilier. — To  add  water  broth  or  other  liquid  during  the  cooking. 

Nougat. — Almonds  candied. 

Pouer. — To  cover  over  with  very  fine  crumbs  of  bread,  meat,  or  any  ar- 
ticles to  be  cooked  on  the  gridiron,  in  the  oven,  or  frying  pan. 

Pate. — A small  pie. 

Piece  De  Resistance. — The  principal  joint  of  the  dinner. 

Requer. — To  lard  with  strips  of  fat  bacon,  poultry,  game,  meats,  etc. 
This  should  always  be  done  according  to  the  vein  of  the  meat  so  that  fn 
carving  you  slice  the  bacon  across  as  well  as  the  meat. 

Poelee.—^iock  used  instead  of  water  for  boiling  turkeys,  sweetbreads, 
fowls  and  vegetables,  to  render  them  less  insipid. 

Roulette  Sauce. — A bechamel  sauce,  to  which  white  wine  and  sometimes 
eggs  are  added. 

Puree. — ^Vegetables  or  meat  reduced  to  a very  smooth  pulp  which  is  af- 
terwards mixed  with  enough  liquid  to  make  it  of  the  consistency  of  thick 
soup.  Sometimes  the  liquid  is  omitted. 

Ragout. — A rich,  brown  stew,  with  mushrooms,  vegetables,  etc. 

Remoulade.—A  salad  dressing  differing  from  mayonnaise,  in  that  the  eggs 
are  hard-boiled,  and  rubbed  in  a mortar  with  mustard,  herbs,  etc. 

Rissoles. — Pastry  made  of  light  puff- paste  and  cut  into  various  forms  and 
fried.  They  may  be  filled  with  fish,  meat  or  sweets. 

Roux. — A cooked  mixture  of  butter  and  flour,  for  thickening  soups  and 
stews.  There  is  both  the  brown  and  white. 

Salmi. — A rich  stew  of  game,  previously  half  roasted. 


1014 


KITCHEN  WRINKLES. 


Sauce  Piquante. — A sharp  sauce,  in  which  someM^hat  of  a vinegar  or 
lemon  flavor  predominates. 

Sunter. — To  dress  with  sauce  in  a saucepan,  repeatedly  moving  it  about. 

Stock. — The  broth  of  w'hich  soups  are  made. 

Souffles.  -A  very  light,  much-whipped-up  pudding  or  omelette. 

Tarius. — Tamny,  a sort  of  open  cloth  or  sieve  through  which  to  strain 
broth  and  sances,  so  as  to  rid  them  of  small  bones,  froth,  etc. 

Timbale. — A sort  of  pie  in  the  mold. 

Tourte. — Tart,  Fruit  pie. 

Trousser. — Totruss,  a bird;  to  put  together  the  body  and  tie  the  wings, 
and  thighs  in  order  to  round  it  for  roasting  or  boiling,  each  being  tied  with 
strong  thread  or  held  by  skewers,  to  keep  it  in  required  form. 

Vol-au-vent. — A rich  crust  of  very  fine  puflf  paste  which  may  be  filled 
with  various  delicate  ragouts  or  fricasses  of  fish,  meat,  or  pork.  Fruit  fresh 
or  preserved  may  also  be  enclosed  in  a vol-an-vent.  , Small  vol-au -vents  are 
made  as  tarts. 


Kitclien  Utensils. 


The  following  is  a list  of  the  utensils  needed  in  every  well-furnished 
kitchen.  Of  course  an  ingenious  housewife  will  make  fewer  do  excellent 
sejrvice,  but  all  these  save  time  and  labor,  and  make  the  careful  preparation 
of  food  easier.  In  buying  tinware  and  kitchen  utensils  generally,  it  is  econ- 
omy to  purchase  the  best  at  first.  The  very  best  double  plate  tinware  will 
last  a lifetime,  while  the  poor  cheap  kind  will  not  last  a year.  The  low- 
priced  earthenware,  particularly  that  which  looks  like  the  substance  of  a 
common  brick  when  broken,  is  worthless.  The  solid,  strong  stoneware  costs 
perhaps  a quarter  more,  but  it  is  worth  ten  times  as  much  as  the  other.  It 
is  also  much  better  for  milk  than  tin. 


WOODEN  WARE. 


One  bread  board. 

One  rolling  pin.  • 

One  small  spoon  for  stirring  pudding- 
sauce. 

Two  large  spoons. 

One  potato-pounder. 

One  lemon  squeezer.  . 

One  wash-board. 

One  mush  stick  (hard  wood). 


One  small  paddle  for  coflfee. 

One  meat-board. 

One  board  upon  which  to  cut  bread,’ 
prepare  vegetables,  etc. 

Three  buckets  for  sugar. 

One  chopping  tray. 

Two  large  and  one  small  wash-tubs. 
One  wringer. 


KITCHEN  UTENSILS. 


1015 


EARTHEN  AND  STONE  WARE. 


One  crock,  two  gallons,  for  mixing 
cake. 

Two  crocks,  one  gallon  each. 

Two  crocks,  tw'o  quarts. 

Two  three-gallon  jars. 

Two  two-gallon  jars. 

^wo  one-gallon  jars. 

T^wo  two-quart  jars. 


One  bean-pot. 

One  bowl. 

One  bowl,  four  quarts. 

Three  bowls,  one  quart. 

Three  bowls,  one  pint  each. 

One  nest  of  three  baking  dishes,  dif- 
ferent sizes. 


TIN  WARE, 


One  boiler  for  clothes,  holding  six 
gallons,  with  copper  bottom  or  all 
copper. 

One  milk  strainer. 

One  bread-pan,  holding  five  or  six 
quarts. 

One  deep  pan  for  preserving  and  can- 
ning fruits. 

One  six-quart  pan. 

One  four-quart  pan. 

Two  two-quart  pans. 

Two  one-quart  pans. 

Two  dish  pans. 

Two  two-quart  covered  tin  pails. 

One  four-quart  covered  tin  pail. 

Two  tin-lined  sauce  pans  with  covers, 
holding  four  quarts  each,  for  boiling 
potatoes,  cabbages,  etc. 

Four  cups  with  handles. 

Two  pint  molds,  for  rice,  blanc-mange, 
etc. 

Four  half-pint  molds. 

One  skimmer  with  handle. 

Two  dippers  of  different  size. 

Two  funnels,  one  for  jugs  and  one  for 
cruets. 

Two  quart  measure. 

Two  pint  measure. 

Two  half  pint  measure. 

Two  gill  measures. 

If  possible,  get  these  measures  broad 
and  low,  instead  of  high  and  slen- 


der, as  they  are  much  more  easily 
kept  clean. 

Three  scoops  of  different  size.  _ 
Four  bread-pans  for  baking.  The 
smallest  make  the  best-sized  loaves^ 
and  will  do  for  cake  also. 

Four  jelly-cake  pans. 

Four  round  and  two  long  pie-pans. 
Two  1%  inch  deep  for  custard  and 
cocoa-nut  pies. 

One  coffee-pot. 

One  tea-pot. 

One  colander. 

One  large  bread-grater. 

One  small  nutmeg-grater. 

One  wire-sieve. 

One  hand  sieve  (quart  measure), 

One  frying-basket. 

One  egg-beater. 

One  spice-box. 

One  pepper-box. 

One  cayenne  pepper-box. 

One  pepper-box  for  salt. 

Cne  biscuit-cutter. 

One  potato-cutter. 

One  dozen  muffin-rings. 

One  soap-shaker. 

One  tea-kettle  with  copper  bottom  or 
all  copper. 

One  wire  spoon. 

One  tea-canister. 

One  toasting-rack. 


IRON  WARE. 


One  pair  of  scales. 

One  pot,  holding  two  gallons,  with 
steamer  to  fit. 

One  pot,  holding  three  gallons,  with 
close-fitting  cover,  for  soup. 

One  preserving  kettle,  porcelain  lined, 
one  deep  frying-pan. 

Two  sheet-iron  dripping-pans  of  dif- 
ferent sizes. 


Two  spoons  with  handles 
length. 

Two  spoons  with  wooden 
One  griddle. 

One  broiler. 

One  waffle-iron. 

One  toasting-rack. 

One  large  meat-fork. 
One  jagging-iron. 


of  moderate 
handles. 


1016 


KITCHEN  UTENSILS. 


One  large  turkey  pan. 

Two  sets  of  gem  pans. 

Two  spoons  with  long  handles. 


One  can-opener. 

One  coffee-mill. 

One  chopping-knife. 

Three  flat-irons,  two  No.  8,  and  one 
No.  6. 


ICES  AND  ICE-CEEAM  UTENSILS. 


An  Ice-cream  freezer. 
A custard-kettle. 

A wire  strainer. 

A mortar  and  pestle. 
An  egg-beater. 

A wooden  paddle. 

A lemon  squeezer. 

A wooden  paddle. 

A Tinned  grater. 


A long  handled  iron  spoon. 
A large  boxwood  spoon. 

A jelly  bag. 

A crash  strainer. 

A porcelain-lined  bowl. 

A household  scale. 

A set  of  measures. 

An  Ice-cream  mold. 


THE  MANAGEMENT  OF  HELP. 


1017 


THE  MANAG^EMEISTT  OF  HEEF. 


In  all  families  whose  style  of  living  demands  help  in  the  household  duties 
the  management  of  servants  is  the  great  American  puzzle.  ^ ^Girls’’  com- 1 
and  go  like  the  seasons,  sometimes  with  the  weeks.  The  one  who  is  “sue!  i 
a treasure”  to-day,  packs  her  trunk  and  leaves  her  mistress  in  the  lurch  to 
morrow,  or,  if  she  happens  to  have  a conscience  and  works  on  faithfully,  sh<* 
becomes  the  mistress  and  runs  the  household  in  her  own  way,  her  employer 
aving  in  mortal  fear  of  offending  and  loosing  her.  This  state  of  things  is  due^ 
;i^rtly  to  the  fact  that  all  girls  who  go  out  to  service,  do  so  as  a make-shift, 
until  they  marry  or  obtain  some  more  congenial  work.  Few  of  them  have  any 
ambition  to  do  their  work  well,  and  few  ever  dream  of  making  themselves  a 
necessity  in  the  family,  becoming  a part  of  it.,  sharing  its  joys  and  sorrows, 
and  so  establishing  that  honorable  and  close  relation  which  exists  between 
servants  and  families  in  Europe.  Here,  it  is  so  much  work  for  so  much  pay, 
and  no  bond  of  sympathy  or  attachment  is  allowed  to  spring  up  on  either 
side.  Another  cause  is  the  fact  that  too  many  American  women,  who  ought 
to  know  better,  regard  work  as  degrading,  instead  of  positively  elevating 
and  ennobling  when  it  is  well  and  conscientiously  done.  Is  it  wonderful 
that  “girls”  catch  something  of  this  vicious  sentiment,  and  that  it  poisons 
their  minds  with  false  views  of  life,  until  they  look  upon  their  work  as  bru- 
tal drudgery,  and  strive  to  do  as  little  of  it  as  they  possibly  can  and  collect 
their  wages  ? 

Perhaps  the  reason  why  girls  prefer  situations  in  stores,  or  shops,  or  even 
factories,  to  housework,  is  that  their  work  there  is  confined  to  certain  hours, 
after  which  they  are  free,  and  it  is  quite  possible  that  an  arrangement  which 
would  give  the  domestic  certain  hours  of  the  day  of  her  own,  would  work  a 
reform ; or  still  better,  certain  reasonable  tasks  might  be  allotted  her  to  do 
after  which  she  would  be  free. 

The  fixed  wages  which  prevail  in  most  cities  and  towns  offer  no  induce- 
ment for  the  “girl”  to  try  to  become  skillful  or  expert  at  her  work.  Among 


1018- 


THE  MANAGEMENT  OF  HELP. 


men  the  best,  neatest,  and  most  skillful  workman  commands  the  largest  pay, 
but  the  ‘‘girl’’  who  is  a superior  cook,  or  maid  of  all  work,  gets  only  the 
same  wages  paid  to  a bungler  w’ho  lives  next  door.  Such  a thing  as  a com- 
bination am.ong  ladies  who  employ  help^  to  grade  wages  and  protect  each 
other  from  the  imposition  of  untidy,  dishonest,  or  indolent  “girls,”  has  never 
been  made,  and  perhaps,  indeed,  it  is  no  more  called  for  than  a combination 
of  “girls”  to  protect  themselves  from  lazy,  tyrannical,  or  too  exacting  mis- 
tresses. Certain  it  is  that  the  whole  system  by  which  domestics  are  hired 
and  serve  is  demoralized  beyond  any  speedy  reform.  All  that  any  individual 
can  do  is  to  remedy  its  evils  so  far  as  possible  in  her  own  family.  In  em- 
ploying a new  domestic,  there  should  be  the  utmost  frankness.  She  ought 
to  be  fully  informed  as  to  what  she  is  expected  to  do,  what  her  wages  will 
be,  and  how  paid,  and  what  privileges  will  be  granted.  If  she  is  not  pleased, 
let  her  depart  without  regret.  If  you  engage  her,  let  her  understand  first 
and  always  that  you  are  mistress,  and  claim  the  right  to  have  the  work  done 
in  your  way, which,  if  you  are  as  skillful  a housewife  as  you  ought  to  be,  you 
will  be  able  to  show  her  what  is  the  best  way.  The  mistress  ought  always  to 
be  able  to  do  everything  better  and  quicker  than  any  domestic  ever  dared 
think  of  doing  it.  If  she  gives  orders  which  betray  her  ignorance,  she  may 
as  well  resign  her  scepter  at  once  in  shame  and  humiliation.  No  mistress 
who  does  not  know  how  to  do  work  herself  can  ever  be  just  to  her  help ; and 
even  when  she  is  a thorough  housekeeper,  a turn  in  the  kitchen  for  a day  or 
two  will  often  be  like  a new  revelation  to  her. 

Above  all,  the  utmost  kindness  should  be  shown,  and  the  mistress  of  the 
house  should  always  be  mistress  of  her  temper.  She  should  put  herself  in 
the  “girl’s”  place,  and  apply  the  golden  rule  in  all  dealings  with  her.  Give 
unqualified  praise  when  deserved,  but  never  scold.  If  anything  is  done  im- 
properly, take  some  proper  time  and  have  it  done  correctly,  again  and  again 
if  necessary.  Give  domestics  all  the  privileges  possible,  and  when  obliged 
to  deprive  them  of  any  customary  indulgence,  make  it  up  soon  in  some  other 
way.  Never  to  find  fault  at  the  time  an  error  is  committed,  if  in  the  least 
irritated  or  annoyed,  is  an  invaluable  rule  in  the  management  of  domestics 
or  children,  and  indeed  in  all  the  relations  of  life.  A quiet  talk  after  all 
feeling  has  subsided,  wfill  do  wonders  toward  reform,  while  a sharp  and  bit- 
ter rebuke  would  only  provoke  to  further  disobedience.  It  is  especially  im- 
portant and  right  to  respect  religious  and  conscientious  scruples,  no  matter 
how  light  and  misguided  they  may  seem.  To  cherish  what  beliefs  she 
pleases  is  an  inalienable  right.  The  care  for  the  comfort  and  attractiveness 
of  the  domestic’s  room  is  also  a duty  which  every  generous  mistress  will 
cheerfully  look  after.  The  servant  who  is  tucked  away  in  a gloomy  attic,  un- 
finished, uncarpeted,  and  uncurtained  except  by  cobwebs,  with  the  hardest 
bed  and  the  meanest  bed-clothing  in  the  house,  can  hardly  be  expected  to  be 
neat  and  tidy  in  her  personal  habits.  But,  after  all,  it  will  be  impossible  to 
secure  and  keep  really  good  “girls”  unless  they  can  be  won  into  sympathy 
and  attachment  to  the  family,  so  that  they  will  regard  themselves  as  a part 


THE  MANAGEMENT  OF  HELP. 


1019 


of  it,  with  a future  identified  with  its  fortunes.  To  do  this,  the  mistress 
must  respect  her  maid  as  a sensitive  woman  like  herself,  and  not  class  her 
as  a mere  drudge  of  an  inferior  order  of  creation.  She  must  recognize  the 
fact  that  character,  and  not  station  or  wealth,  make  the  lady,  and  that  it  is 
possible  for  those  who  serve  to  respectthemselves.  She  must  let  her  domes- 
tics see  that  she  does  not  consider  her  work  degrading,  but  honorable,  and 
that  she  does  not  for  a moment  expect  them  to  regard  it  in  any  other  light. 
Above  all,  she  must  never  show  them,  by  word,  look,  or  action,  that  she 
“looks  down”  on  them  because  of  their  work.  By  the  cultivation  of  such 
amenities  as  these,  the  house  may  really  be  made  a home  for  the  domestics  as 
well  as  the  family,  and  the  mistress  who  has  accomplished  this  may  well 
congratulate  herself  in  having  escaped  the  worst  and  most  perplexing  ills 
of  the  life  of  the  American  housewife.  In  her  efforts  to  bring  about  such  a 
result  she  may  confidently  count  on  meeting  many  cases  of  incompetence, 
stupidity,  and  even  ingratitude,  but  the  experiment  itself  is  in  the  right  di- 
rection; and  if  it  fails  of  complete  success,  can  not  be  wholly  without  good 
results. 


HINTS  TO  THE  EMPLOYED. 


Be  neat  in  person  and  dress. 

Keep  your  hands  clean  and  hair  tidy. 

Do  not  waste  time  in  gadding  about  and  gossip. 

Be  quiet,  polite  and  respectful  in  your  manners. 

Tell  the  truth  always,  but  especially  to  children. 

Do  not  spend  your  money  foolishlv  in  gewgaws  of  dress. 

Always  follow  your  mistress’  plan  of  work,  or  explain  why  you  do  not , 

Keep  your  room  neat  and  orderly,  and  make  it  as  attractive  as  possible. 

Do  not  waste  anything.  To  waste  carelessly  is  almost  as  wrong  as  to 
steal. 

Never  tell  tales  out  of  the  family,  or  repeat  in  one  what  you  have  seen 
in  another. 

Never  break  apromise  to  children,  and  do  not  frighten  them  with  stories, 
or  help  them  to  conceal  wrong-doing. 

Remember  that  there  is  nothing  gained  by  slighting  work.  Doing  every 
thing  as  well  as  possible  always  saves  labor  in  housekeeping. 

Remember  that  the  best  and  most  faithful  girls  command  the  highest 
wages,  get  the  easiest  and  best  places,  and  never  are  out  of  employment. 

In  engaging  a new  place,  have  a clear  understanding  as  to  wages,  work, 
and  the  evenings  and  time  you  are  to  have.  It  may  save  trouble  afterwards. 

Learn  from  books  or  from  those  who  have  had  more  experience,  the  best 
way  of  doing  work,  and  plan  to  do  it,  with  as  much  system  and  few  steps  as 
possible. 

Don’t  change  employers.  There  are  trials  in  every  place,  and  it  is  bet- 
ter to  put  up  w'ith  them,  and  make  them  as  light  as  possible,  than  to  change 
to  new  ones. 

If  your  mistress  scolds  and  loses  her  temper,  be  sure  and  control  yours. 
If  you  feel  that  you  are  wronged,  talk  quietly  and  kindly  after  the  storm  has 
blown  over. 

Instead  of  trying,  as  many  do,  to  see  how  little  you  can  do  and  get  your 
wages,  try  and  see  how  pleasant  and  useful  you  can  be  as  a member  of  the 


1020 


THE  MANAGEMENT  OF  HELP. 


family.  Work  for  its  interest  and  happiness,  lighten  its  burdens,  be  ready 
to  give  help  when  it  is  needed,  even  if  it  is  out  of  your  own  line  of  work,  and 
try  to  win  the  esteem  and  love  of  all  by  cheerfulness,  truthfulness,  and  the 
practice  every  day  of  the  golden  rule. 

Above  all,  do  not  think  your  work  degrading.  No  work  is  more  honor- 
able. The  happiness  and  health  of  the  family  depends  on  you,  and  no  lady 
or  gentleman  will  “slight”  you  or  ‘Took  down”  on  you  because  you  work. 
You  need  not  be  on  the  lookout  for  slights  unless  you  are  vain,  or  lazy,  or 
slovenly,  or  dishonest.  Whoever  looks  down  on  you  because  you  do  honest 
work  conscientiously  and  well,  is  a fool,  and  not  worth  minding 


HINTS  ABOUT  MAREETIN€t. 


1021 


HINTS  ABOUT  MABKETINO. 


Very  few  housekeepers  understand  how  to  select  meats  wisely  or  howto 
juy  economically.  Most  trust  the  butcher,  or  buy  at  hap-hazard,  with  no 
tlear  understanding  of  what  they  want,  and  no  consideration  at  all  for, 
economy ; and  yet  a little  knowledge  of  facts,  with  a moderate  amount  of 
experience  and  observation,  will  enable  any  one  to  buy  both  intelligently 
and  economically.  It  is  best,  when  possible,  to  buy  for  cash.  Ready  money 
always  commands  the  best  in  the  market,  at  the  lowest  prices.  It  is  also 
better  to  buy  of  the  most  respectable  regular  dealers  in  the  neighborhood, 
than  of  transient  and  irresponsible  parties.  Apparent  “bargains”  frequently 
turn  out  the  worst  possible  investments.  If  a dealer  imposes  on  you,  drop 
him  at  once.  Meat  should  always  he  wiped  with  a dry,  clean  towel  as  soon 
as  it  comes  from  the  butcher’s,  and  in  loins  the  pipe  which  runs  along  the 
bone  should  be  removed,  as  it  soon  taints.  Never  buy  bruised  meat. 

When  found  necessary  to  keep  meat  longer  than  was  expected,  sprinkle 
pepper,  either  black  or  red,  over  it.  It  can  be  washed  .off  easily  when  ready 
for  cooking.  Powdered  charcoal  is  excellent  to  prevent  meat  from  tainting^ 
Meat  which  has  been  kept  on  ice  must  be  cooked  immediately,  but  it  is 
much  better  to  place  meats,  poultry,  game,  etc.,  by  the  side  of,  not  on,  ice, 
as  it  is  the  cold  air,  not  the  ice,  which  arrests  decay.  All  meats  except 
veal,  are  better  when  kept  a few  days  in  a cool  place. 


Buying  Beef. — Select  that  which  is  of  a clear  cherry-red  color  after  a 
fresh  cut  has  been  for  a few  moments  exposed  to  the  air.  The  fat  should  he 
of  a light  straw  color,  of  a firm  and  waxy  consistency,  andjthe  meat  marbled 
throughout  with  fat.  If  the  beef  is  immature,  the  color  of  the  lean  part  will 
be  pale  and  dull,  the  bones  small,  and  the  fat  very  white.  High-colored, 
coarse-grained  beef,  with  the  fat  a deep  yellow,  should  be  rejected.  In  corn- 
fed  beef  the  fat  is  yellowish,  while  that  fattened  on  grasses  is  whiter.  lu 


1022 


HINTS  ABOUT  MARKETING. 


cow-beef  the  fat  is  also  whiter  than  in  ox-beef.  Inferior  meat  from  old  or 
ill-fed  animals  has  a coarse,  skinny  fat  and  a dark  red  lean.  Ox-beef  is  the 
sweetest  and  most  juicy,  highly  nourishing,  and  the  most  economical.  That 
of  the  cow  is  nourishing  but  not  so  agreeable  to  the  taste,  but  a heifer  is 
always  held  in  high  estimation.  The  flesh  of  the  ox  of  large  breeds  is  best 
at  seven  years  old ; of  small  breeds  at  five  years.  When  meat  pressed  by 
the  finger  rises  up  quickly,  it  is  prime,  but  if  the  dent  disappears  slowly,  or 
remains,  it  is  inferior  in  quality.  Any  greenish  tints  about  either  fat  or 
lean,  or  slipperiness  of  surface,  indicates  that  the  meat  has  been  kept  so 
long  that  putrefaction  has  begun,  and,  consequently,  is  unfit  for  use,  except 
by  those  persons  who  prefer  what  is  known  as  a “high  flavor”.  Tastes  dif- 
fer as  to  the  choice  cuts,  and  butchers  cut  meat  differently.  The  tenderloin, 
which  is  the  choicest  piece,  and  is  sometimes  removed  by  itself,  lies  under 
the  short  ribs  and  close  to  the  backbone,  and  is  usually  cut  through  with  the 
porterhouse  and  sirloin  stakes.  Of  these  the  porterhouse  is  generally  pre- 
ferred, the  part  nearest  the  bone  being  the  sweetest.  If  the  tenderloin  is 
wanted,  it  may  be  secured  by  buying  an  edgebone  steak,  the  remainder  of 
which,  after  the  removal  of  the  tenderloin,  is  eijiial  to  the  sirloin.  The  small 
porterhouse  steaks  are  the  most  ecoiiimical,  but  in  large  steaks,  the  coarse 
and  tough  parts  may  be  used  for  soup,  or,  after  boiling,  for  hash,  which,  in 
spite  of  its  bad  repute,  is  really  a very  nice  dish  when  well  made.  A round 
steak,  when  the  leg  is  not  cut  down  too  far,  is  sweet  and  juicy,  the  objection 
being  its  toughness,  to  cancel  which  it  may  be  chopped  fine,  seasoned,  and 
made  into  breakfast  croquettes.  There  is  no  waste  in  it,  and  hence  it  is  the 
most  economical  to  buy.  The  interior  portion  of  the  round  is  the  tenderest 
and  best.  Porterhouse  is  cheaper  than  sirloin,  having  less  bone.  Rump 
steak  and  round,  if  well  pounded  to  make  them  tender,  have  the  best  flavor, 
xiie  best  beef  for  a la  mode  is  the  round  ; have  the  bone  removed  and  trim 
off  all  the  gristle.  For  corned  beef,  the  rump  and  round  are  the  best.  The 
roasting  pieces  are  the  sirloin  and  the  ribs,  the  latter  being  the  most  eco- 
nomical at  the  family  table.  They  are  generally  divided  as  follows  : Five 
ribs,  called  the  rib,  this  being  considered  the  primest  roasting  piece.  Four 
ribs,  called  the  middle-rib,  greatly  esteemed  by  housekeepers  as  the  most 
economical  joint  for  roasting.  Two  ribs  called  the  chuck-rib, — used  for 
second  quality  of  steaks.  The  bones  of  rib  roasts  forming  an  excellent  basis 
for  soup,  and  the  meat  when  boned  and  rolled  up  (which  should  be  done  by 
file  butcher),  and  roasted,  is  in  good  form  for  the  carver,  as  it  enables  him 
to  distribute  equally  the  upper  part  with  the  fatter  and  more  skinny  por- 
tions. A roast  served  in  this  way,  if  cooked  rare,  may  be  cooked  a second 
or  even  a third  time.  The  best  beef  roast  is  (for  three)  about  two  and  a half 
or  three  pounds  of  porterhouse.  Two  or  three  pounds  is  a great  plenty  for 
three.  There  are  roasts  and  other  meats  equally  good  in  the  fore-quarter  of 
beef,  but  the  proportion  of  bone  to  meat  is  greater.  They  are  leg-of-mutton 
piece, — the  muscle  of  the  shoulder  dissected  from  the  breast.  Brisket  or 
breast,  used  for  boiling,  after  being  salted.  Neck,  clod,  and  sticking- j)iece, 
— used  for  soups,  gravies,  stock,  pies  and  mincing  for  sausages.  Shin, — for 
stewing. 

Mutton  should  be  fat,  and  the  fat  clear,  hard  and  white.  Beware  of  buy- 
ing mutton  with  flabby,  lean  and  yefiow  fat.  An  abundance  of  fat  is  a 
source  of  waste,  but  as  the  lean  part  of  fat  mutton  is  much  more  juicy  and 
tender  than  any  other,  it  should  be  chosen.  The  longer  mutton  is  hung 
before  being  cooked,  provided  it  does  not  become  tainted,  the  better  it  is. 
If  a saddle  or  haunch  of  mutton  is  washed  with  vinegar  every  day,  and 
dried  thoroughly  after  each  washing,  it  will  keep  a good  while.  In  warm 
weather  pepper  and  ground  ginger  rubbed  over  it  will  keep  off  flies.  The 
leg  has  the  least  fat  in  proportion  to  weight,  next  is  the  shoulder.  The  least 


HINTS  ABOUT  MARKETING. 


1025 


proporfion-of  bone  is  in  the  leg.  After  the  butcher  has  cut  off  all  he  can  be 
persuaded  to  remove,  you  will  still  have  to  trim  it  freely  before  broiling. 
The  lean  of  mutton  is  quite  different  from  that  of  beef.  While  beef  is  a 
wight  carnation,  mutton  is  a deep,  dark  red.  The  hind-quarter  of  mutton  is 
best  for  roasting.  The  ribs  may  be  used  for  chops,  and  are  the  sweeter ; but 
ateaks  or  cutlets  from  the  hind  legs  are  the  most  economical,  as  there  is 
much  less  bone,  and  no  hard  meat,  as  on  the  ribs.  For  mutton  roast,  choose 
the  shoulder,  the  saddle,  or  the  loin  or  haunch.  The  leg  should  be  boiled. 
Small  rib  chops  are  best  for  broiling ; those  cut  out  from  the  leg  are  gener- 
ally tough.  Mutton  cutlets  to  bake  are  taken  from  the  neck.  Almost  any 
part  will  do  for  broth.  As  much  of  the  fat  should  be  removed  as  practicable  ; 
then  cut  into  small  pieces  and  simmer  slowly  until  the  meat  falls  to  pieces. 
Brain  off  and  skim  off  any  remaining  fat,  and  thicken  with  rice  and  vermi- 
celli. Mutton  is  in  season  any  time,  but  is  not  so  good  in  autumn. 

To  Select  Hams. — The  best  hams,  whether  corned  or  cured  and  smoked, 
are  those  from  eight  to  fifteen  pounds  in  weight,  having  a thin  skin,  solid  fat, 
and  a small,  short,  tapering  leg  or  shank.  In  selecting  ttiem,  rim  a knife 
along  the  bone  on  the  fleshy  side ; if  it  comes  out  clean  andVith  an  agreeable 
smell  the  ham  is  good,  but  if  the  knife  is  smeared  it  is  spoiled.  Flams  may 
be  steamed,  being  careful  to  keep  the  water  under  the  steamer  boiling,  and 
allow  twenty  minutes  to  the  pound.  When  done,  brown  slightly  in  the  oven. 

Lamb  is  good  at  a year  old,  and  more  digestible  than  most  immature 
meats.  “Spring- Lamb”  is  prized  because  unseasonable.  It  is  much  in- 
ferior to  the  best  mutton.  The  meat  should  be  light  red  and  fat.  If  not  too 
warm  weather,  it  ought  to  be  kept  a day  or  two  before  cooking,  but  it  does 
not  keep  w^ell.  It  is  stringy  and  indigestible  if  cooked  too  soon  after  killing. 
The  fore-quarter  of  lamb,  if  not  fresh,  the  large  vein  in  the  neck,  which 
should  be  blue,  will  be  greenish  in  color.  If  the  hind-quarter  is  stale,  the 
kidney  fat  will  have  a slight  smell. 

Pork. — Great  care  must  be  taken  in  selecting  pork.  Dairy-fed  pork  is 
the  best.  If  ill-fed  or  diseased,  no  meat  is  more  injurious  to  the  health.  The 
lean  must  be  fine-grained,  and  fat  and  lean  very  white.  The  rind  should  be 
smooth  and  cool  to  the  touch.  If  clammy,  be  sure  the  pork  is  stale,  and  re- 
ject it.  If  the  fat  is  full  of  small  kernels,  it  is  an  indication  of  disease.  In 
good  bacon  the  rind  is  thin,  the  fat  firm,  and  the  lean  tender.  Rusty  bacon 
has  yellow  streaks  in  it.  Fresh  pork  should  seldom  be  eaten,  and  never 
except  in  the  fall  and  winter.  Pig’s  head  is  profitable  to  buy.  It  is  often 
despised  because  cheap ; but  well  cooked,  it  is  delicious.  Weil  cleaned,  the 
tip  of  the  snout  chopped  off,  and  put  in  brine  a week,  it  is  in  order  for  boil- 
ing. The  cheeks  are  better  than  any  other  pieces  of  pork  to  bake.  The 
head  is  good  baked  an  hour  and  a half,  and  yields  abundance  of  sweet  fat 
for  shortening. 

Tongue. — Beef’s  tongue,  calf’s  tongue,  lamb’s  and  sheep’s  tongue,  pig’s 
tongue,  can  all  be  procured  of  the  butchers,  and  they  are  all  prepared  in  the 
same  way.  Calf’s  tongue  is  considered  best,  but  it  is  usually  sold  with  the 
head;  beeves’  tongues  are  what  is  referred  to  generall}'’  when  “tongue”  is 
spoken  of.  Lambs’  tongues  are  very  nice.  In  purchasing  tongues,  choose 
those  which  are  thick,  firm,  and  have  plenty  of  fat  on  the  under  side.  In 
buying  a salt  tongue  ascertain  how  long  it  has  been  pickled  and  select  one 
with  a smooth  skin  which  denotes  it  being  young  and  tender. 

Veal  is  best  from  calves  not  less  than  four  nor  more  than  six  weeks  old. 
If  younger  it  is  unfit  for  food,  and  if  older  the  mother  cow  does  not  furnish 
enough  food,  and  it  is  apt  to  fall  away;  besides,  the  change  to  grass  diet 
changes  the  character  of  the  flesh,  it  becoming  darker  and  less  juicy.  The 


1024 


HINTS  ABOUT  MARKETING. 


meat  should  be  clear  and  firm,  and  the  fat  white.  If  dark  and  thin,  with 
tissues  hanging  loosely  about  the  bone,  it  is  not  good.  Veal  will  not  keep  so 
long  as  an  older  meat,  especially  in  hot  or  damp  weather,  and  when  going 
the  fat  is  soft  and  moist,  the  meat  fiabby  and  spotted,  and  inclined  to  be 
porous  like  a sponge.  The  hind-quarter  is  the  choicest  joint.  It  is  usually 
divided  into  two  parts,  called  the  ‘Toin”  and  the  “leg”.  A loin  must  al- 
ways be  roasted ; the  fillet  or  leg  may  be  dressed  in  various  ways.  When 
the  leg  is  large,  it  is  divided  into  two  joints,  and  the  thin  end  is  called  the 
“kidney  end,”  and  the  other  the  “thick  end.”  From  the  leg  is  cut  the  “fil- 
lets” and  “veal  cutlets.”  The  “knuckle  of  veal”  is  the  part  left  after  the 
“fillets”  and  “cutlets”  are  removed  (the  knee)  and  is  best  for  soup  or  boil- 
ing. In  the  fore  quarter  the  breast  and  rack  admit  variety  in  cooking ; the 
shoulder  and  neck  are  only  fit  for  soup.  Many  prefer  the  “breast  of  veal” 
for  roasting,  stewdng,  pies,  etc.  It  may  be  boned  so  as  to  roll,  or  a large 
hole  may  be  cut  in  it  to  make  room  for  the  stuffing.  The  neck  of  veal  is 
used  for  stewing,  fricassee,  pies,  etc.  The  leg  is  an  economical  piece,  as 
you  can  take  off  cutlets  from  the  large  end,  stuff  and  roast  the  center,  and 
make  broth  of  the  shank.  Veal  chops  are  nice  for  frying  or  boiling ; cutlets 
or  steaks  for  same  purpose  are  more  economical  as  there  is  less  bone.  Veal 
should  be  avoided  in  summer.  Though  veal  and  lamb  contain  less  nutrition 
in  proportion  to  their  weight,  than  beef  and  mutton,  they  are  often  prefer 
red  to  these  latter  meats  on  account  of  the  delicacy  of  their  texture  am  i 
flavor. ,, 

Sweet-breads,  if  properly  cooked,  make  one  of  the  most  delicate  dishe  5 
that  can  be  put  upon  the  table  ; but  some  care  must  be  taken  in  selectin;; 
them,  as  there  are  tw'o  kinds,  and  one  kind  is  very  much  better  than  ths 
ttther.  One  is  found  in  the  throat  of  the  calf,  and  when  fresh  is  plump, 
white  and  fat,  it  has  an  elongated  form,  but  is  not  so  firm  and  fat,  and  has 
not  the  fine  flavor  of  the  heart  sweet-bread.  The  heart  sweet-bread  is  at- 
tached to  the  last  rib,  and  lies  near  the  heart.  The  form  is  somewhat 
rounded,  and  it  is  smooth  and  firm.  The  color  should  be  clear  and  a shade 
darker  than  the  fat.  Select  the  largest.  There  is  also  the  lamb  sweet- 
bread. However  the  sweet-breads  may  be  cooked,  they  should  be  always 
first  soaked  for  three  hours  in  cold  water,  w'hich  should  be  two  or  three  times 
changed ; then  they  should  be  put  into  boiling  water  for  half  an  hour  or 
longer,  if  that  does  not  make  them  firm ; then  they  may  be  dried  in  a towel, 
and  pressed  flat  by  putting  them  between  two  pans  or  boards,  with  a press- 
ing-iron or  other  weight  on  top.  Another  nice  dish,  and  in  dishes  may  be 
made  of  Calves-head ; in  buying,  purchase  two  small  ones  as  they  do  not  cost 
any  more  than  one  large  one  and  contain  a double  amount  of  brain,  which. 
\s  a very  choice  part  of  them. 


Grame  and  F^onltry. 

To  preserve  game  and  poultry  in  summer,  draw  as  soon  as  possible  after 
they  are  killed,  wash  in  several  waters,  have  in  readiness  a kettle  of  boiling 
water,  plunge  them  in,  drawing  them  up  and  down  by  the  legs,  so  that  the 
water  may  pass  freely  through  them ; do  this  for  five  minutes,  drain,  wipe 
dry,  and  hang  in  a cold  place ; when  perfectly  cold,  rub  the  insides  and 
necks  with  pepper ; prepared  in  this  way,  they  will  keep  two  days  in  warm 
weather ; when  used  wash  thoroughly.  Or  wash  well  in  soda-water,  rinse  i» 
clear  water,  place  inside  several  pieces  of  charcoal,  cover  with  a cloth,  and 
hang  in  a dark,  cool  place.  The  most  delicate  birds  can  be  preserved  in  this 


HINTS  ABOUT  MARKETING. 


1025 


"way.  If  game  or  poultry  is  at  all  strong,  let  it  stand  for  several  hours  in 
water  .with  either  soda  or  charcoal ; the  latter  will  sweeten  them  when  they 
are  apparently  spoiled.  English  or  French  cooks,  however,  never  wash 
poultry  or  game  in  dressing,  unless  there  is  something  to  wash  off.  With 
skillful  dressing,  none  is  necessary  on  the  score  of  cleanliness,  and  much 
washing  tends  to  impair  the  fine  flavor,  especially  of  game  In  all  game  and 
poultry  the  female  is  the  choicer. 

Sportsmen  who  wish  to  keep  prairie-chickens,  phesants  or  wild  fowl  in 
very  hot  weather,  or  to  ship  long  distances,  should  draw  the  bird  as  soon  as 
killed,  force  down  the  throat  two  or  three  whole  peppers,  tying  a string  around 
the  throat  above  them,  sprinkle  inside  a little  powdered  charcoal,  aud  fill 
the  cavity  of  the  body  with  very  dry  grass.  Avoid  green  or  wet  grass,  which 
* ‘heats”  and  hastens  decay.  If  birds  are  to  be  shipped  without  drawing, 
force  a piece  of  charcoal  into  the  vent,  and  tie  a string  closely  around  the 
neck,  so  as  to  exclude  all  air,  and  make  a loop  in  string  to  hang  up  by.  Pre- 
pared in  this  way  they  will  bear  shipment  for  a long  distance. 

Ducks. — Young  ducks  feel  tender  under  the  wings,  and  the  web  of  th( . 
foot  is  transparent,  and  the  beak  will  be  brittle  and  break  readily,  those  witl  \ 
thick,  hard  breasts  are  best.  Tame  ducks  have  yellow  legs  ; wild  ducks,  red  > 
dish  ones ; and  in  either  case  in  young  ones  they  are  hairless. 

Geese. — In  young  geese,  the  bills  and  feet  are  yellow  and  supple,  andthu 
skin  may  be  easily  broken;  the  breast  is  plump,  and  the  fat  white;  an  old. 
goose  has  red  and  hairy  legs,  and  is  unfit  for  the  table. 

Wild  Ducks,  if  fishy  and  the  flavor  is  disliked,  should  be  scalded  for  afe^* 
minutes  in  salt  and  water  before  roasting.  If  the  flavor  is  very  strong  th<# 
duck  may  be  skinned,  as  the  oil  in  the  skin  is  the  objectionable  part.  Aftei 
skinning,  spread  with  butter  and  thickly  dredge  with  flour,  before  putting  ici 
a very  quick  oven. 

Game. — In  pheasants  and  quails,  yellow  legs  and  dark  bills  are  signs  of  a 
young  bird,  and  the  pins  in  a young  pheasant  are  short  and  blunt.  With  the 
latter  the  cock-bird  is  generally  prefered  except  when  the  hen  is  with  egg. 
They  are  in  season  in  autumn.  Pigeons  should  be  fresh,  fat  and  tender,  and 
the  feet  pliant  and  smooth.  In  prairie  chickens,  when  fresh,  the  eyes  are 
full  and  round,  not  sunken  ; and  if  young,  the  breast-bone  is  soft  and  yields 
to  pressure.  The  latter  test  also  applies  to  all  fowls  and  game  birds.  Plover 
woodcock,  snipe,  etc.,  may  be  chosen  by  the  same  rule.  Choose  rabbits 
with  smooth  and  sharp  claws ; as  that  denotes  they  are  young ; should  these 
be  blunt  and  rugged,  the  ears  dry  and  tough,  the  animal  is  old. 

Turkeys  are  in  season  in  fall  and  winter,  but  deteriorate  in  the  spring. 
Old  turkeys  have  long  hairs,  and  the  skin  is  purplish  when  it  shows  under 
the  skin  on  legs  and  back ; when  good,  they  are  white,  plump,  with  full 
breast  and  smooth,  black  legs ; and  if  male,  soft  loose  spurs,  The  eyes  are 
bright  and  full,  and  the  feet  are  supple,  when  fresh.  The  absence  of  these 
signs  denotes  age  and  staleness.  Hen  turkeys  are  inferior  in  flavor,  but  are 
smaller,  fatter  and  plumper.  Full-grown  turkeys  are  best  for  boning  or  boil- 
ing, as  the  flesh  does  not  tear  in  dressing. 

Chickens,  when  fresh,  are  known  by  full,  bright  eyes,  pliable  feet,  and 
soft  moist  skin.  Young  fowls  have  a tender  skin,  smooth  legs  and  comb,  and 
the  best  have  yellow  legs.  In  old  fowls,  the  legs  are  rough  and  hard.  Tk© 
65 


. 1026 


HINTS  ABOUT  MARKETING. 


top  of  the  breast-bone  of  a young  fowl  is  soft,  and  may  be  easily  bent  with 
the  fingers ; and  the  feet  and  neck  are  large  in  proportion  to  the  body.  The 
best  fowls  are  fat,  plump,  with  skin  nearly  white,  and  the  grain  of  the  flesh 
flne.  Old  fowls  have  long,  thin  necks  and  feet,  and  the  flesh  on  the  legs  and 
back  has  a purplish  shade.  Fowls  are  always  in  season. 

Venison. — The  choice  of  venison  should  be  regulated  by  the  fat,  which, 
when  the  venison  is  young,  should  be  thick,  clear  and  close,  while  the  meat 
is  a reddish  brown.  As  it  always  begins  to  taint  flrst  near  the  haunches,  run 
a knife  into  that  part ; if  tainted,  a rank  smell  and  a greenish  appearanc.e  will 
be  perceptible.  It  maybe  kept  a long  time,  however,  with  careful  manage- 
ment and  watching,  by  the  following  process : Wash  it  well  in  milk  and 
water,  and  dry  it  perfectly  with  a cloth  until  there  is  not  the  least  damp  re- 
maining ; then  dust  ground  pepper  over  every  part.  This  is  a good  preserva- 
tive against  the  fly.  The  flesh  of  the  female  deer,  about  four  years  old,  is 
the  sweetest  and  best  of  venison. 


Fish. 

"When  fresh,  the  eyes  of  fish  are  full  and  bright,  and  the  gills  a fine  clear 
red,  the  body  stiff  and  the  smell  not  unpleasant.  Mackerel  must  be  lately 
caught,  or  it  is  very  indifferent  fish,  and  the  flavor  and  excellence  of  salmon 
depends  entirely  on  its  freshness.  In  fresh-water  fish,  it  is  imposssible  to 
name  all  the  excellent  varieties,  as  they  differ  with  the  locality.  In  the 
South  is  the  shad,  the  sheep’s-head,  the  golden  mullet  and  the  Spanish 
mackerel,  in  the  North-west  the  luscious  brook  trout,  and  the  wonderful 
and  choice  tribes  that  people  the  inland  lakes.  Among  the  best  of  the  fresh- 
water fish,  sold  generally  in  the  markets  of  the  interior,  are  the  Lake 
Superior  trout  and  white  fish,  and,  coming  from  cold  waters,  they  keep  best 
of  all  fresh- water  fish ; the  latter  is  the  best,  most  delicate,  and  has  fewer 
bones,  greatly  resembling  shad.  The  wall-eyed  pike,  bass  and  pickerel  of 
the  inland  lakes  are  also  excellent  fish,  and  are  shipped,  packed  in  ice, 
reaching  market  as  fresh  as  when  caught,  and  are  sold  at  moderate  prices. 
California  salmon  is  also  shipped  in  the  same  way,  and  is  sold  fre^h  in  all 
cities,  with  fresh  cod  and  other  fresh  varieties  from  the  Atlantic  coast,  but 
the  long  distance  which  they  must  be  transported  makes  the  price  high. 
The  cat-fish  is  the  staple  Mississippi  River  fish,  and  is  cooked  in  various 
ways.  Lake  Superior  trout  are  the  best  fresh  fish  for  baking.  All  fish 
which  have  been  packed  in  ice  should  be  cooked  immediately  after  removal, 
as  they  soon  grow  soft  and  lose  their  flavor.  Stale  fish  must  never  be 
eaten.  Fresh  fish  should  be  scaled  and  cleansed  properly  on  a dry  table, 
and  not  in  a pan  of  water.  As  little  water  should  be  used  as  is  compatible 
with  perfect  cleanliness.  When  dressed,  place  near  ice  until  needed,  then 
remove  and  cook  immediately.  If  frozen  when  brought  from  market,  thaw 
in  ice-cold  water.  Fresh  cod,  whiting,  haddock,  and  shad  are  better  for 
being  salted  the  night  before  cooking  them,  and  the  muddy  smell  and  taste 
of  fresh-water  fish  is  removed  by  soaking,  after  cleaning,  in  strong  salt  and 
water. 


HINTS  ABOUT  MARKETING. 


1027 


Anchovies. — The  best  look  red  and  mellow,  and  the  bones  moist  and 
oily,  the  flesh  is  high  flavored,  and  a fine  smell ; if  the  liquor  and  fish  be- 
come dry,  add  to  it  a little  beef  brine. 

Cod. — This  should  be  chosen  for  the  table  when  it  is  plump  and  round 
near  the  tail,  when  the  hollow  behind  the  head  is  deep,  and  when  the  sides 
are  undulated  as  if  they  were  ribbed.  The  glutinous  parts  about  the  head 
lose  their  delicate  flavor  after  the  fish  has  been  twenty-four  hours  out  of  the 
water.  The  great  point  by  which  the  cod  should  be  judged  is  the  firmness 
of  it? flesh;  and  although  the  cod  is  not  firm  when  it  is  alive,  its  quality 
may  be  arrived  at  by  pressing  the  finger  into  the  flesh.  If  this  rises 
immediately  the  fish  is  good,  if  not,  it  is  stale.  Another  sign  of  its  good- 
ness is,  if  the  fish,  when  it  is  cut,  exhibits  a bronze  appearance,  like  the 
silver-side  of  a round  of  beef.  When  this  is  the  case,  the  flesh  will  be  firm 
when  cooked.  Stiffness  in  a cod,  or  in  any  other  fish,  is  a sure  sign  of  fresh- 
ness, though  not  always  of  quality.  Sometimes,  codfish,  though  exhibiting 
signs  of  rough  usage,  will  eat  much  better  than  those  with  red  gills,  so 
strongly  recommended  by  many. 

Crabs. — Though  not  so  popular  as  lobsters,  crabs  are  among  the  most 
pleasantly  flavored  fish  of  their  class.  They  are  in  season  from  June 
January,  but  are  considered  to  be  more  wholesome  in  the  cold  months.  Thu 
middling  size,  when  heavy,  lively,  and  possessed  of  large  claws,  are  thebesl; 
and  sweetest;  if  light,  they  are  poor  and  watery.  When  crabs  are  stale  thu 
eyes  look  dead,  the  claws  hang  down,  and  there  is  no  muscular  activity  ; h* 
this  condition  they  are  not  fit  to  eat.  The  female  is  considered  inferior  ti  > 
the  male,  and  may  be  distinguished  by  the  claws  being  smaller,  and  thi? 
apron,  which  appears  on  the  white  or  under  side,  larger.  In  purchasing 
crabs  in  the  living  state  preference  should  be  given  to  those  which  have 
rough  shell  and  claws.  When  selecting  a crab  which  has  been  cooked  it 
should  be  held  by  its  claws  and  well  shaken  from  side  to  side.  If  it  is  fouml 
to  rattle, or  feels  as  if  it  contained  water,  it  is  proof  that  the  crab  is  of  inter- 
ior quality.  The  crab  may  be  kept  alive,  out  of  water,  two  or  three  days. 
They  are  broiled  in  same  manner  as  the  lobster.  Soft-shell  Crabs  are  deemed 
a great  luxury ; but  they  must  not  be  kept  over  night,  as  the  shells  harden 
in  twenty-four  hours. 

Eels. — Dress  as  soon  as  possible,  or  they  lose  their  sweetness;  cutoff 
the  head,  skin  them,  cut  them  open,  and  scrape  them  free  from  every  string. 
They  are  good  except  in  the  hottest  summer  months,  the  fat  ones  being  best. 
A fine  codfish  is  thick  at  the  back  of  the  neck,  and  is  best  in  cold  weather. 
In  sturgeon,  flesh  should  be  white,  veins  blue,  grain  even  and  skin  tender. 

Lobsters. — When  freshly  caught,  have  some  muscular  action  in  their 
claws  which  may  be  excited  by  pressing  the  eyes.  The  heaviest  lobsters  if 
of  good  size  are  the  best,  but  the  largest  are  not  the  best.  The  male  is 
thought  to  have  the  highest  flavor,  the  flesh  is  firmer,  and  the  shell  has  a 
brighter  red,  and  is  considered  best  during  the  Fall  and  Spring ; it  may  be 
readily  distinguished  from  the  female,  as  the  tail  is  narrower,  and  the  two 
uppermost  fins,  within  the  tail,  are  stiff  and  hard ; those  of  the  female  are 
soft,  and  the  tail  broader.  The  latter  are  prepared  for  sauces  on  account  of 
their  coral,  and  are  preferred  during  the  summer,  especially  in  June  and 
July.  The  head  is  used  in  garnishing,  by  twisting  it  off  after  the  lobster 
has  been  boiled  and  become  cold.  Lobsters  ranging  from  four  pounds  are 
most  delicate.  When  you  buy  them  ready  boiled,  try  whether  their  tails 
are  stiff,  and  pull  up  with  a spring;  if  otherwise,  they  are  oither  waterv  or 
not  fresh. 


1028 


HINTS  ABOUT  MARKETING. 


Mackerel. — The  best  salt  mackerel  for  general  use  are  ‘‘English  mess,” 
but  “bloaters”  are  considered  nicer.  In  selecting  always  choose  those 
which  are  thick  on  the , belly  and  fat ; poor  mackerel  are  always  dry.  The 
salt  California  salmon  are  excellent,  those  of  a dark  rich  yellow  being  best. 
To  freshen,  place  with  scale  side  up.  Salmon  boiled  and  served  with  egg 
sauce  or  butter  dressing  is  nice.  No.  1 White  Fish  is  also  a favorite  salt  fish, 
and  will  be  found  in  all  markets.  Herring  is  a good  and  very  economical 
fish.  A good  deal  of  sturgeon  is  put  up  and  sold  for  smoked  halibut.  The 
skin  of  halibut  should  be  white  ; if  dark  it  is  more  likely  to  be  sturgeon.  Smoked 
salmon  should  be  firm  and  dry.  Smoked  white  fish  and  trout  are  very  nice, 
the  former  being  a favorite  in  whatever  way  dressed.  Select  good  firm 
whole  fish. 

Scallops  are  not  much  used ; when  fresh,  the  shell  closes  tight ; hard- 
shell clams  are  also  closed  tight  when  fresh.  Soft-shell  clams  are  good  only 
in  cold  w^eather,  and  should  be  fresh.  Oysters,  if  alive  and  healthy,  close 
tight  upon  the  knife.  They  are  good  from  September  to  May. 

Terrapins. — They  are  “diamond  backs,”  and  sold  in  the  market  by 
counts,  which  are  so  called  from  the  width  of  the  bottom  shell,  each  count 
measuring  three  inches.  Any  terrapin  that  will  go  a connt  is  a female,  and 
of  course  is  preferred,  for  being  more  tender,  and  on  account  of  the  eggs. 


V egetables. 

All  green  vegetables  snap  crisply  when  fresh ; if  they  bend  and  present 
a wilted  appearance  they  are  stale.  They  should  be  crisp,  fresh,  and  juicy  ■; 
they  are  best  just  before  flowering,  and  are  in  prime  condition  for  use  if 
gathered  early  in  the  morning,  and  not  afterwards  exposed  to  the  heat  of  the 
sun ; green  vegetables  which  have  laid  in  the  market  stalls  for  any  tim^B 
should  not  be  bought  if  fresh  ones  can  be  obtained  ; but  if  their  use  is  un- 
avoidable they  can  be  restored  by  sprinkling  them  with  cold  water,  and  lay- 
ing them  in  a cool,  dark  place. 

Carrots,  are  good  from  the  time  of  ripening  until  they  begin  to  sprout; 
after  that  their  elements  are  disarranged  and  altered  by  the  process  of  germ- 
ination, and  they  do  not  supply  the  same  kind  or  amount  of  nutriment.  They 
should  be  plump  and  even  sized,  with  fresh,  unshrivelled  skins.  They,  as 
well  as  parsnips,  turnips,  greens,  and  cabbage  are  eaten  with  boiled  meat. 

Cauliflowers  are  best  when  large,  solid  and  creamy.  When  stale  the 
leaves  are  wilted  and  show  dark  spots. 

Celery  stalks  should  be  white,  solid  and  clean.  Celery  begins  in  August, 
but  it  is  better  and  sweeter  after  frost. 

Egg-plant  should  be  firm  but  not  ripe.  The  large  purple  oval-shaped 
kind,  is  best. 

Edible  Mushrooms  are  most  plentiful  in  the  early  Spring  and  in  August 
and  September,  springing  up  in  the  open  fields  altering  low-lying  fogs  or 
heavy  dews,  their  quick  growth  being  most  remarkable.  Never  gather  those 
that  grow  in  shady  places,  under  trees  or  near  pools  of  stagnant  water,  as 
they  are  almost  sure  to  be  poisonous.  The  top  of  the  edible  young  mush- 
room and  its  stalk  is  always  quite  white,  while  the  gills  or  under  part  are 
loose  and  of  a light  pink  or  salmon  color,  which  changes  as  it  grows  older 


HINTS  ABOUT  MARKETING. 


1029 


to  a chocolate  brown  color,  and  then  to  black,  according  to  the  time  it  con- 
tinues growing ; the  stem  also  becomes  dark  and  the  top  turns  brown.  The 
upper  skin  of  the  mushroom  falls  off  easily  but  that  of  the  poisonous  fungus 
does  not ; the  latter  has  a yellow  skin  and  the  under  part  has  not  the  clear 
flesh  or  pink  color  of  the  mushroom.  Every  edible  mushroom  has  also  a 
pleasant  odor  and  is  never  slimy,  while  those  that  are  dangerous  either  have 
a bad  odor  or  none  at  all. 

Peaie  should  be  bought  in  pods  and  should  feel  cool  and  dry.  If  pods 
are  rusty  or  spotted,  they  are  too  old  to  be  good.  These  as  well  as  corn, 
beets,  and  beans  are  appropriate  to  either  boiled  or  roasted  meat. 

Potatoes. — Select  those  of  medium  size,  smooth,  with  small  eyes  ; those 
which  are  heavy  in  proportion  to  size  will  be  the  mealiest  when,  cooked. 
They  should  be  perfectly  ripe  before  gathering,  otherwise  they  will  dry  and 
shrivel,  because  their  skins  are  so  porous  as  to  permit  the  evaporation  of 
their  moisture.  To  test,  cut  off  a piece  of  the  lar^e  end ; if  spotted,  they  are 
unsound.  Potatoes  vary  greatly  in  quality ; varieties  which  are  excellent 
early  in  the  season  loose  their  good  qualities,  and  others,  which  are  worth- 
less in  the  Fall,  are  excellent  late  in  the  Spring.  Those  raised  on  gravelly 
or  sandy  soil,  not  over  rich  are  best.  In  the  Spring,  when  potatoes  are  be- 
ginning to  sprout,  place  a basket  of  them  in  a tub,  pour  boiling  water  over 
them ; in  a moment  or  two  take  out  and  place  in  sun  to  dry  (on  the  grass  is 
a good  place),  and  then  return  to  cellar.  If  they  have  sprouted  too  much  it 
is  best  to  first  rub  them  off.  They  are  good  with  all  meats.  With  poultry 
they  are  best  mashed.  Sweet  potatoes  are  most  appropriate  to  roasts  as 
are  onions,  winter  squash  and  asparagus. 

Tomatoes  are  generally  regarded  as  ■wholesome.  The  medium-sized 
smooth  ones  are  best.  Tomatoes  are  good  with  every  kind  of  meat,  but. 
especially  so  with  roasts. 

Turnips  are  not  nutritious,  being  ninety  per  cent  water,  but  an  excel- 
lent food  for  those  who  are  disposed  to  eat  too  much,  as  they  correct  consti» 
pation.  Small-sized  white  turnips  contain  more  nutrition  than  large  ones, 
but  in  ruta-bagas  the  largest  a,»e  best.  Mashed  turnip  is  good  with  roastecV 
pork  and  with  boiled  meats. 


Fruit. 

Berries. — Morning  is  fh'?  best  time  to  eat  fruit,  and  fresh  fruit  is  then  in 
the  best  condition  to  be  eaten.  When  berries  of  any  kind  can  be  had  fresh 
with  the  morning  dev/,  fill  the  finest  glass  dish,  adding  a few  fresh  leaves,  for 
a center-piece  on  the  breakfast  table.  Serve  in  saucers  accompanied  with 
fine  white  sugar  (pulverized  is  the  best  and  most  economical  for  all  purposes) 
and  fresh  cream  if  you  have  it,  but  never  substitute  skim  milk.  The  berries 
will  be  very  nice  with  only  sugar.  There  is  a vast  difference  between  fruit 
with  cream  and  fruit  with  milk.  Cream  is  easily  digested  and  slow  to  sour, 
while  just  the  contrary  is  true  of  milk  after  the  cream  has  been  removed. 
Yet  we  have  known  people  to  live  after  eating  strawberries  and  buttermilk, 
and  we  have  also  known  people  to  die  after  eating  hot  apple  dumplings  and 
cold  milk.  If  you  happen  to  be  the  fortunate  possessor  of  a berry  patch,  let 
the  children  go  out  betore  breakfast  and  pick  and  eat.  Properly  trained  chil- 
dren will  not  abuse  this  privilege. 

Apples. — The  varieties  of  apples  are  almost  unmentionable,  and  some 
kind  can  be  had  almost  the  entire  year.  First  fruit  received  in  the  north 
comes  from  Tennessee  about  June  Ist.  Southern  Illinois  furnishes  some 


1030 


HINTS  ABOUT  MARKETING. 


June  15th,  and  from  this  time  apples  are  ripening  in  all  sections  of  country. 
Early  apples  are  Red  Junes,  Early  Harvest — both  tart — Maiden  Blush,  Red 
Streaks,  Strawberries,  Porters,  Golden,  Ben  Davis  and  Pippins.  Pippins 
are  good  for  pies  and  also  for  eating.  Later  in  the  fall  the  Rhode  Island 
Greening  is  best  for  cooking.  None  of  our  fruits  are  brought  to  such  perfec- 
tion, or  may  be  preserved  with  such  ease  through  the  winter.  The  best  eat- 
ing apples  are  the  Spitzenberg,  Bell-flowers,  Ben  Davis,  Northern  Spy,  Win- 
ter Pippin,  Red  Astrakan,  Greening,  Vandevere,  Pound  Sweet,  Roxbury 
Russets  and  Grindstones.  . • 

Applet,  to  Keep. — For  keeping  late  in  spring  the  Baldwins,  Northern  Spy, 
Greenings  and  Wine  Saps  are  good ; our  experience  being  in  favor  of  the  last 
named.  The  Ben  Davis  and  Bell-flowers  are  good  cooking  apples  yet  the  lat- 
ter can  generally  be  bought  without  specifying  the  kind.  The  hard,  acid 
kind,  are  unwholesome  if  eaten  raw  ; but  by  the  process  of  cooking  the  great- 
est part  of  the  acid  is  decomposed  and  converted  into  sugar,  a process  whjch 
takes  place  naturally  in  the  sweet  kinds,  as  the  fruit  ripens.  As  more  than 
half  of  the  substance  of  apples  consists  of  water,  and  as  the  rest  of  the  ingre- 
dients are  not  of  the  most  nutritive  kind,  this  fruit,  like  most  fruits,  is  less  of 
a nutrient  than  a luxury,  and  an  aid  to  digestion.  When  cooked  they  are 
slightly  laxative,  and  therefore  a useful  adjunct  to  other  food.  They  are; 
nice  , cooked  without  paring  them.  Wipe  clean,  nearly  cover  with  water, 
add  a little  sugar,  and  stew  until  tender,  then  put  in  a slow  oven  and  bake 
until  brown.  The  peel  of  the  apple  imparts  a rich  flavor.  Apple  sauce 
made  in  the  usual  wa^^,  after  being  sufficiently  stewed,  if  put  into  a slow 
oven  and  baked  an  hour  or  so,  is  greatly  improved. 

Grapes. — These  ripen  according  to  locality,  from  the  1st  of  September 
until  November,  and,  when  carefully  kept,  a month  or  two  longer.  We 
have  also  the  luscious  foreign  grapes,  raised  in  hot  and  cold  graperies  from 
April  until  December,  among  which  are  the  Black  Hamburgh,  White  Mus- 
cat, White  Sweetwater,  Tokay,  etc.  The  Syrian,  a white  species,  produces 
the  largest  clusters.  The  White  Malayan,  of  foreign  growth,  is  found 
throughout  the  winter  where  imported  fruits  are  kept.  Fox  or  wild  grapes 
are  abundant  from  the  middle  of  August  to  November;  they  are  round  and 
soft,  with  a pleasant,  tart  taste,  and  are  used  for  pies,  preserves,  etc. 

Lemons — Are  fruit  that  keep  well  and  may  be  had  almost  any  season  of 
the  year,  but  are  more  plenty  and  cheaper  in  the  Spring.  Messina  lemons 
are  the  best.  Little  success  has  been  had  raising  lemons  in  Florida,  better 
in  California,  but  the  Messina  has  for  many  years  been  considered  the  best. 

Oranges. — California  Riverside  oranges  are  the  cleanest  and  finest  fruit 
raised;  but  the  finest  oranges  that  are  shipped  to  Northern  cities  are  from 
Florida.  They  begin  to  pick  them  about  November  and  the  crop  is  all 
marketed  by  February  first.  California  fruits  are  picked  in  December  and 
the  bulk  is  marketed  in  March  and  April ; the  fruit  Is  plentiful  and  stays 
on  trees  until  March  or  April  in  perfect  condition.  Can  be  had  in  market 
until  late  in  June.  The  finest  variety  of  all  oranges  is  the  Naval  which 
is  luscious,  sweet,  and  without  seeds.  The  Paperskins,  and  Bud- 
ded or  Grafted  oranges  are  also  good.  Fruit  from  Los  Angeles,  Sante 
Anna,  and  San  Bernardine  is  inferior  to  that  from  Riversides  because  of  the 
Ocean  fogs  blackening  them  while  on  the  tree,  and  the  process  of  cleaning 
brushing,  etc.,  injures  them,  and  they  do  not  keep  so  well.  The  importa- 
tion of  Messinas  begins  in  March  and  after  May  the  market  is  supplied 
largely  with  this  fruit.  This  was  formerly  considered  the  finest  fruit,  but  it 
has  lost  its  prestige  and  importations  at  present  time  are  not  over  one  third 
what  they  were.  Lousiana  oranges  come  late  in  the  season — October 


HINTS  ABOUT  MARKETING. 


1031 


and  November,  but  are  not  considered  as  good  as  the  other  varieties  ; large 
and  yellow,  but  coarse,  inferior  and  apt  to  have  strong  seeds,  peculiar  sour 
bitter  taste,  etc.  Some  seasons  the  fruit  matures  better  than  others  and  is 
quite  palatable. 

Peaches. — This  fruit  can  be  grown  in  about  any  temperate  climate  and 
is  raised  from  Gulf  of  Mexico  to  Illinois,  Indiana  and  Ohio,  and  can  be  ob- 
tained from  middle  of  May  to  first  of  October.  First  comes  from  Mississippi, 
as  they  begin  to  pick  May  1st.  From  Tennesee  10th  to  15th  of  June ; South- 
ern Illinois,  July  1st;  California,  July  1st ; Michigan,  August  15th;  Mary- 
land, August  15th.  California  and  Mississippi  fruit  do  not  rank  high  on  ac- 
count of  being  picked  green  for  distant  shipments.  No  really  fine  peaches 
are  obtained  until  the  Maryland  and  Michigan  crop  come  in.  These  peaches 
are  harder  and  will  stand  longer  shipments  and  are  considered  one  of  the 
finest  fruits. 

Pears — May  be  had  from  July  until  well  into  the  winter.  The  finest  of 
this  fruit  comes  from  California,  although  some  fine  pears  may  be  had  from 
Western  New  York  and  Northern  Ohio. 


Grroceries. 

Almonds. — Buy  the  sweet  variety ; the  kernels  are  used  either  in  a green 
or  ripe  state,  and  as  an  article  in  the  dessert.  Into  cookery,  confectionery, 
perfumery,  and  medicine,  they  largely  enter,  and  in  domestic  economy, 
should  always  be  used  in  preference  to  bitter  almonds.  The  reason  for  ad- 
vising this  is  because  the  kernels  do  not  contain  any  hydrocyanic  or  prussic 
acid,  although  it  is  found  in  the  leaves,  flowers,  and  bark  of  the  tree.  When 
young  and  green  they  are  preserved  in  sugar,  like  green  apricots.  They 
furnish  the  almond-oil ; and  the  farinaceous  matter  which  is  left  after  the 
oil  is  expressed,  forms  the  p<Ue  d’amandes  of  perfumers.  In  the  arts,  the  oil 
is  employed  for  the  same  purposes  as  the  olive-oil,  and  forms  the  basis  of 
kalydor,  macassar  oil,  Gowland’s  lotion,  and  many  other  articles  of  that 
kind  vended  by  perfumers.  In  medicine,  it  is  considered  a nutritive,  laxa- 
tive, and  an  emollient. 

Arrowroot,  Tapioca,  Sago,  Pearl-barley,  American  Isinglass,  Macaroni, 
Vermicelli,  and  Oatmeal,  are  all  articles  which  help  to  make  an  agreeable 
variety,  and  it  is  just  as  cheap  to  keep  a small  quantity  of  each  as  it  is  to 
buy  a large  quantity  of  two  or  three  articles.  Eight  or  ten  pounds  each  of 
these  articles  of  food  can  be  kept  in  covered  jars  or  covered  wooden  boxes, 
and  then  they  are  always  at  hand  when  wanted.  All  of  them  are  very 
healthful  food,  and  help  to  form  many  delightful  dishes  for  desserts.  There 
are  several  kinds  of  oatmeal — Scotch,  Irish,  Canadian  and  American.  The 
first  twm  are  sold  in  small  packages,  the  Canadian  and  American  in  any 
quantity.  It  seems  as  if  the  Canadian  and  American  should  be  the  best  be- 
cause the  freshest ; but  the  fact  is  the  others  are  considered  the  choicest. 
Many  people  could  not  eat  oatmeal  in  former  years,  owing  to  the  husks  ir- 
ritating the  lining  of  the  stomach.  There  is  now  what  is  called  pearled  meal. 
All  the  husks  are  removed,  and  the  oats  are  then  cut.  The  coarse  kind  will 
keep  longer  than  the  fine  ground,  but  it  is  best  to  purchase  often,  and  have 
the  meal  as  fresh  as  possible. 

Buckwheat  Meal,  Rice  and  Hominy  should  be  purchasid  in  small  quan- 
tities, and  kept  in  covered  kegs  and  tubs.  Several  of  these  articles  are  in- 
fested with  black  insects,  and  an  examination  should  be  occasionally  made 
for  them. 


1032 


HINTS  AB0UT  MARKETING. 


Cheese,  which  feels  soft  between  the  fingers,  is  richest  and  "Dest  and 
should  be  kept  in  a box  in  a cool  dry  place. 

Corn  Meal  does  not  keep  well  and  should  be  bought  in  small  quantities. 
South  the  white  meal  is  used,  and  North  the  yellow  is  the  favorite.  Corn  is 
a heat  producer  and  is  a useful  winter  diet. 

Coffee  and  Tea  can  be  bought  with  advantage  inconsiderable  quantities. 
Coflfee  improves  by  age  if  kept  in  a dry  place,  as  it  loses  its  rank  smell  and 
taste.  Several  cents  a pound  may  be  saved  by  buying  a bag  of  coffee  or 
half  chest  of  tea.  Tea  loses  its  flavor  if  put  up  in  paper,  and  should  be  kei)t 
in  glass  or  tin,  shut  tight.  CoflTee  should  be  kept  by  itself,  as  its  odor  affects 
other  articles. 

Eggs. — To  determine  the  exact  age  of  eggs,  dissolve  about  four  ounces 
of  common  salt  in  a quart  of  pure  water  and  then  immerse  the  egg.  If  it  be 
only  a day  or  so  old,  it  will  sink  to  the  bottom  of  the  vessel,  but  if  it  be  three 
days  old  it  will  float  in  the  liquid ; if  more  than  five  it  comes  to  the  surface, 
and  rises  above  in  proportion  to  its  increased  age. 

Flour  should  be  bought  in  small  quantities,  and  the  best  is  cheapest 
The  test  of  quality  is  given  under  bread.  Flour  is  peculiarly  sensitive  to  at- 
mosphereic  influence,  hence  it  should  never  be  stored  in  a room  with  sour 
liquids  nor  wdiere  onions  or  flsh  are  kept,  nor  any  article  that  taints  the  aii 
of  the  room  in  which  it  is  stored.  Any  smell  perceptible  to  the  sense  will 
be  absorbed  by  flour.  Avoid  damp  cellars  or  loft  where  a free  circulation  of 
air  can  not  be  obtained.  Keep  in  a cool,  dry,  airy  room,  and  not  exposed  to  a 
freezing  temperature  nor  to  intense  summer  or  to  artificial  heat  for  any 
length  of  time  above  70  to  72  degrees  Farenheit.  It  should  not  come  in  con- 
tact with  grain  or  other  substances  which  are  liable  to  heat.  Flour  should 
oe  sifted  and  the  particles  thoroughly  disintegrated,  and  then  warmed  before 
baking. 

Hard  Soap  should  be  bought  in  large  quantity,  and  laid  to  harden  in 
bars  piled  on  each  other.  Hard  soap  is  more  economical  than  soft,  as  it  is 
not  so  easily  wmsted. 

Lard. — The  best  lard  is  made  from  leaf  fat  which  adheres  to  the  ribs  and 
lt)elly  of  the  hog.  This  is  known  as  leaf  lard.  Most  lard  is,  however,  made 
of  both  leaf  fat  and  meat  fat,  the  latter  cut  into  small  pieces  and  rendered. 
Good  lard  should  be  white,  solid,  and  v/ithout  any  disagreeable  smell. 

Macaroni. — Good  macaroni  is  of  a yellowish  color,  does  not  break  in 
cooking  and  yields  four  times  its  bulk. 

Marjoram. — Although  there  are  several  species  of  marjoram,  that  which 
is  known  as  the  sweet  or  knotted  marjoram,  is  the  one  usually  preferred  in 
cookery.  It  is  a native  of  Portugal,  and  when  its  leaves  are  used  as  a seas- 
oning herb,  they  have  an  agreeable  aromatic  flavor.  The  winter  sweet 
marjoram  used  for  the  same  purpose,  is  a native  of  Greece,  and  the  pot- 
marjoram  is  another  variety  brought  from  Sicily.  All  of  them  are  favorite 
ingredients  in  soups,  stuffings,  etc. 

Olives. — A small  sort  can  be  bought  by  the  keg  cheap  for  sauces,  etc., 
but  for  the  table  always  use  the  Spanish  bottled  olives. 

Raisins  should  be  bought  in  small  quantities ; small  boxes  are  best. 

Rice. — The  Southern  rice  cooks  much  quicker,  and  is  nicer  than  th# 
Indian  rice. 

Sago. — The  small  white  sago,  called  “pearl,”  is  best. 


HINTS  ABOUT  MARKETING. 


.1033 


Salt  must  be  kept  in  the  dryest  place  that  can  be  found.  The  best  for 
table  use  is  put  up  im  boxes,  but  if  a quantity  be  purchased,  it  should  be 
stored  in  a glass  jar,  and  closely  covered.  When  it  becomes  damp  in  the 
salt-stands,  it  should  be  set  by  the  fire  to  dry,  and  afterwards  reduced  to  fine 
powder  again. 

Sa/ads. — For  these  procure  mustard  and  cress,  borage,  chervil,  lettuce, 
parsley,  mint,  purslane,  chives,  burnet,  nasturtium  leaves  and  buds,  fennel, 
sorrel,  tarragon,  corn  salad,  dandelions,  chicory,  escarole,  water  cresses, 
green  onions,  celery,  leeks,  lettuce,  very  young  spinach  leaves,  the  tender 
leaves  of  oyster  plant,  fresh  mushrooms,  young^marshmellow  shoots,  and  the 
fresh  sprouts  of  winter  turnips  ; also  radishes,  cucumbers,  onions,  cabbage, 
very  young  turnips,  green  j)eppers,  and  fresh  tomatoes.  Salad  vegetables 
which  can  be  cooked  and  allowed  to  cool  and  then  made  into  salads,  are  po- 
tatoes, beets,  carrots,  cabbage,  cauliflowers,  turnips,  kohl-rabi,  artichokes, 
string  beans,  green  peas,  asparagus,  Brussel  sprouts,  spinach,  dried  haricot 
beans,  Lima  beans,  lentils,  and  leeks ; among  the  fruits  are  apples,  pears, 
oranges,  lemons,  muskmelons,  currants,  gooseberries  and  barberries. 

Spices  and  Pepper  should  be  ground  fine,  and  put  in  large-mouthed  glass 
bottles,  or  kept  in  tin  cans,  in  a dry  place.  Avoid  bright  red  peppers,  spices, 
and  sauces. 

Starch  may  also  be  bought  in  large  quantities  at  a considerable  discount 
from  the  retail  price,  which,  in  a large  family,  makes  a difference  in  the 
yearly  expenses.  The  best  starch  is  the  most  economical. 

Sugars. — Buy  sugars  for  various  purposes  as  follows  : 

For  baked  custard,  mince  pie,  squash  pie,  fruit  cake,  gingerbread,  most 
Indian  puddings,  use  browm  sugar. 

For  all  light-colored  cakes,  icing,  floating  island,  blanc-mange,  merin- 
gues, whips,  use  powdered  sugar. 

For  pudding  sauce,  use  powdered  or  brown  sugar. 

For  sweetmeats,  jelly,  and  raspberry  vinegar,  use  fine  granulated  sugar, 
8.nd  where  only  one  sugar  is  used  the  fine  granulated  is  best  for  all  purposes. 
O.’here  is  a great  difference  between  the  fine  and  coarse  sugar,  the  former 
being  more  economical  as  it  dissolves  much  quicker  and  more  readily. 

Vinegar,  which  is  made  of  wine  or  cider  is  the  best.  Buy  a keg,  or  half 
barrel  of  it,  and  set  it  in  the  cellar,  and  then  keep  a supply  for  the  casters 
in  a junk  bottle  in  the  kitchen.  If  too  strong,  vinegar  will  eat  pickles. 

White  Pepper. — This  is  better  to  buy  than  the  black.  It  is  the  produce 
of  the  same  plant  as  that  which  produces  the  latter,  from  which  it  is  man- 
ufactured by  steeping  this  in  lime  and  water,  and  rubbing  it  between  the 
hands  till  the  coats  come  ofi*.  The  best  berries  only  will  bear  this  operation; 
hence  the  superior  qualities  of  white  pepper  command  a higher  price  than  the 
other.  It  is  less  acrid  than  the  black,  and  is  much  prized  among  the  Chinese. 
It  is  sometimes  adulterated  with  rice-flour,  as  the  black  is  with  burnt  bread. 
The  berries  of  the  pepper-plant  grow  in  spikes  of  from  twenty  to  thirty,  and 
are,  when  ripe,  of  a bright-red  color.  After  being  gathered,  which  is  done 
when  they  are  green,  they  are  spread  out  in  the  sun,  where  they  become 
black  and  shrivelled,  when  they  are  ready  to  be  prepared  for  the  market. 

Dressing  Poultry  for  Market. — Secure  plump  well  fattened  fowls.  Dq 
not  feed  for  at  least  twenty-four  hours  before  killing.  Scald  enough  to  make 
the  feathers  come  off  easily,  picking  both  feathers  and  pin  feathers  oft‘  nicely. 
Be  careful  not  to  bruise  or  break  the  skin  in  any  way,  because  it  injures  the 
sale.  Leave  all  the  entrails  in,  and  head  and  feet  on.  Immediately  after 
they  are  dressed,  dip  once  in  boiling  hot  water,  letting  them  remain  in  about 


1034 


HINTS  ABOUT  MARKETING. 


ten  seconds ; then  dip  into  ice-cold  water,  allowing  them  to  remain  in  the 
same  length  of  time,  then  hang  in  a cool  place  where  they  will  dry  before 
packing.  Ducks  should  he  treated  same  as  fowls  or  chickens.  Pack  in 
boxes  or  barrels  in  nice,  clean  rye  or  oat  straw.  Boxes  holding  from  100  lbs. 
to  200  lbs.  are  the  most  desirable  style  of  packages.  Pack  with  breasts 
down,  using  straw  between  each  layer. 

Be  sure  to  pack  solid,  so  they  will  not  bruise  on  the  way.  Poultry  pre- 
pared in  this  way  will  meet  with  a ready  sale,  while  poorly  dressed,  sweaty 
(caused  by  being  packed  while  warm)  and  bruised  lots  will  not  sell  at  any 
time.  Large,  fat,  dry  picked  turkeys  and  chickens  sell  well.  They  should 
be  picked  at  once  after  killing,  and  hung  up  until  the  animal  heat  is  entirely 
out  before  packing.  Remember,  it  is'  the  appearance  of  goods  that  sells 
them.  Nice,  large,  fat,  plump  turkeys,  chickens,  ducks,  or  geese,  always 
bring  outside  prices. 

The  best  time  to  ship. — Any  time  after  the  tenth  of  November,  so  as  to 
reach  market  by  Wednesday  or  Thursday  of  each  week.  If  sent  for  the 
holidays,  they  should  arrive  at  least  three  days  before  Thanksgiving,  Christ- 
mas or  New  Year’s.  Keep  the  largest  turkeys  for  New  Year’s.  Geese  sell 
])est  at  Christmas. 


Fnel. 

Wood. — A table  showing  the  comparative  value  of  various  woods  f s given 
■^fith  the  table  of  weights  ana  measures.  Thatcut  from  the  body  of  a mature 
tree  is  best. 

Soft  Coal. — The  objection  to  soft  coal  is  the  dust  that  arises  frorr  it,  and 
the  unpleasant  smell  of  the  gases  of  combustion.  There  is  a great  differ- 
ence in  the  quality  of  soft  coals  from  different  mines,  and  it  will  be  easy  to 
learn  the  best  varieties  in  the  local  market. 

Hard  Coal. — Bad  coal  has  flat,  dull  pieces  in  it  which  remahn  hard, 
heavy  and  whitish  when  burned,  called  ‘‘bone”.  If  in  a scuttle  full  of  coal 
weighing  twenty-five  pounds,  a half  pound  of  these  white  pieces  arf?  found, 
the  coal  is  not  good.  Coal  is  pronounced  good  if  it  breaks  at  right  angles 
firmly  and  with  a bright  fracture.  If  it  shatters  or  is  full  of  dull  pieces,  it  is 
poor  in  quality.  There  is  a vast  difference  in  hard  coal,  a difference  which 
lew  understand. 

Coke  is  sold  in  many  markets.  It  kindles  readily  and  makes  an  intense 
heat.  It  is  lighter  than  coal  and  costs  about  the  same  price  per  ton.  It  is 
cleaner  than  soft  coal  for  burning  in  open  grates. 


CUTTING  AND  CURING  MEATS. 


1035 


CUTTIlSrG-  AND  CURING-  MEATS. 


It  is  often  economical  for  a family  to  buy  beef  by  the  quarter,  and  smaller 
animals  whole,  especially  when  wanted  for  winter  use  as  what  is  wished 
fre&h  can  be  kept  a long  time  in  cold  weather,  really  improving  as  long  as  it 
does  not  become  tainted,  and  the  rest  can  be  “corned”,  dried,  etc.  For  this 

reason  ever)''  housekeeper  ought  to  know  how 
to  cut  up  meats  and  to  understand  the  uses 
and  relative  value  of  the  pieces.  It  is  not 
difficult  to  cut  up  beef,  and  is  very  easy  to  re- 
duce any  of  the  smaller  animals  to  convenient 
proportions  for  domestic  use  ; and  in  order  to 
make  the  subject  clear  we  present  the  ac- 
companying engravings,  the  first  of  which 
represents  the  half  of  a beef,  including,  of 
course,  the  hind  and  fore-quarters.  The  let- 
ters indicate  the  direction  in  which  the  cuts 
should  be  made,  beginning  in  the  order  of  the 
alphabet,  cutting  first  from  A to  B,  then  0 to 
D,  etc.,  in  hind-quarter.  In  the  fore-quarter 
cut  from  A to  B,  from  B to  0,  from  Dto  E,  etc. 
For  cutting,  use  a sharp,  long,  and  pointed 
knife,  and  a saw  of  the  best  steel,  sharp,  and 
set  for  butcher’s  use.  The  beef  should  be 
laid  on  a bench  or  table  with  the  inner  side  up. 
With  the  different  divisions  we  give  the  or- 
dinary value  of  the  meat,  the  price  being  per 
pound  except  in  the  leg  and  soup  bones.  Of 
course  in  different  places  prices  will  vary,  but 
these  give  the  relative  value  of  the  pieces.  In 

HIND-QUAETEE 

1 Represents  the  rump  or  upper  part  of 
hind  leg,  good  for  pot  roasts ; beef  a la  mode ; 
corned  beef  and  rump  roasts,  also  makes 


splendid  soup ; 123^  cts. 


1036 


CUTTING  AND  CURING  MEATS. 


2 The  ‘‘round’’  the  under  part  of  which  makes  steaks,  the  outside 
lean  soup  meat  or  good  corning  pieces,  or  the  whole  is  very  choice  for  dried 
beef ; 15  cts. 

3 The  “shank,”  of  which  the  upper  part  is  the  muscle  of  the  leg,  solid 
meat  and  good  for  soups  ; 1234  cts. 

4 “Rump  steaks”  ; 16  cts.  5,  “veiny  piece”  for  dried  beef  and  qorning; 
14  and  15  cts.  6,  sirloin  steaks  ; 18  cts. 

6 & 8 Between  these  numbers  over  the  thigh  joint  are  the  tenderloin 
steaks ; 20  cts. 

7 The  flank  for  curing  or  stews  6 cts.,  and  in  it  lies  the  flank  steak,  best 
and  juiciest  steak  there  is  ; when  purchasing  it  do  not  have  it  scored  as  is 
usually  done  ; just  remove  fat  and  skin  ; 1234  cts. 

8.  Porterhouse  steaks,  those  lying  next  to  tenderloin  steaks  being  the 
best,  of  course  ; 18  cts.  Cutting  the  steaks  in  this  way  a part  of  the  tender- 
loin,  the  most  tender  bit  of  the  beef,  lies  in  the  sirloin,  and  a smaller  part 
in  the  upper  part  of  the  porterhouse  steak.  The  lower  half  of  the  cut  gives 
us  the 

PORE-QUARTER. 

1.  Rib  piece  for  boiling  or  corning. 

2.  Plate  piece  for  corning ; 8 cents  fresh. 

3.  Shank  for  soup  bone,  weighs  10  pounds  ; 35  cents  entire. 

4.  Lower  part  of  the  division  are  shoulder  pieces  for  stewing  and  pot 
roasts  ; 10  cents.  Upper  part  used  for  same  purpose,  but  better  pieces  of 
meat;  1234  cents.  In  the  upper  part  of  4,  between  4 and 8 is  what  is  called 
the  shoulder  joint  for  soup  meat ; 10  cents  a piece. 

4.  In  the  end  of  4 next  1,  is  the  “shoulder  clod”  which  makes  No.  1 
pot  roasts  ; 1234  cents. 

5.  Rib  roasts  ; first  cut  and  best,  15  cents. 

6.  Rib  roasts  ; second  cuts  14  cents. 

7.  Chuck  rib  roasts  first  next  to  rib  roast  and  best,  14  to  15  cents. 

8.  Upper  part,  or  next  7 are  shoulder  roasts  generally  used  for  pot» 
roasts;  1234  cents. 

8.  Front  part  is  the  neck,  good  for  stews,  mince,  corning  and  soup  meat ; 
8 cents. 

9.  The  brisket,  extending  under  the  shank  (3).  This  makes  stews, 
braises,  corned  beef,  etc. ; 8 cents. 

The  fore  leg  which  is  bought  for  35  cents,  will  make  ten  quarts  of  very 
palatable  and  nutritious  soup  and  ought  to  be  used  far  more  generally  for 
that  purpose.  The  shoulder  pieces  may  be  bought  for  a shilling  a pound, 
make  excellent  pot  roasts,  and  in  many  respects  preferable  to  round  steak 
at  15  cenfs.  The  neck  at  8 cents  per  pound,  is  the  very  best  for  soups,  stews 
and  mince  meat.  An  excellent  chuck  roast  may  be  cut  near  the  neck  at  a 
shilling  a pound.  The  price  of  this  meat  runs  in  an  ascending  scale  froiaa 
the  neck  to  the  ribs,  but  the  nutritive  value  does  not. 


CUTTING  AND  CURING  MEATS. 


1037 


VEAL. 


A — Loin,  best  end,  for  roasting. 

B — Loin,  chumn  end,  for  roasting. 
C — Fillet,  for  baking  or  roasting. 

D — Knuckle  for  stewing. 

E — Fore-knuckle,  for  stewing. 

F — Neck,  best  end,  for  roasting. 

G — Neck,  scrag  end,  for  stewing. 
H — Blade  bone. 

I — Breast,  for  stewing. 

K — Brisket,  for  stewing. 


PORK. 

A — Back,  lean  part  for  roast. 

B — Loin,  for  roast. 

C — Bacon,  to  be  cured. 

D — Shoulder  to  be  cured. 

E — Ham,  to  be  cured. 

MUTTON. 

A — Leg,  for  boiling  piece. 

B — Loin,  for  roast. 

C — Rump  piece,  for  roast. 

D — Chops,  frying  or  broiling. 

E — Fore-shoulder  for  boiling. 

F — Neck,  for  stewing  or  roasting. 
G — Brisket,  for  stewing. 


Curing  Meats. 

The  manner  in  which  salt  acts  in  preserving  meat  is  not  difficult  to  un» 
derstand.  Bv  its  strong  affinity,  it,  in  the  first  place,  extracts  the  juices 
from  the  substance  of  meat  in  sufficient  quantity  to  form  a saturated  solution 
with  the  water  contained  in  the  juice,  and  the  meat  then  absorbs  the  sat- 
urated brine  in  place  of  the  juice  extracted  by  the  salt.  In  this  way,  mat- 
ter incapable  of  putrefaction  takes  the  place  of  that  portion  in  the  meat 
which  is  most  perishable.  Such,  however,  is  not  the  only  office  of  salt  as  a 
means  of  preserving  meat ; it  acts  also  by  its  astringency  in  contracting  the 
fibres  of  the  muscles,  and  so  excludes  the  action  of  air  on  the  interior  of  the 
substanee  of  the  meat.  The  last  mentioned  operation  of  salt  as  an  antisep^ 


1038 


CUTTING  AND  CURING  MEATS. 


tic  is  evinced  by  the  diminution  of  the  volume  of  meat  to  which  it  is  applied. 
The  astringent  action  of  saltpeter  on  meat  is  much  greater  than  that  of  salt, 
and  thereby  renders  meat  to  which  it  is  applied  very  hard ; but  in  small 
quantities,  it  considerably  assists  the  antiseptic  action  of  salt,  and  also  pre- 
vents the  destruction  of  the  florid  color  of  meat,  which  is  caused  by  the  ap- 
plication of  salt.  Thus,  it  will  be  perceived,  from  the  foregoing  statement, 
that  the  application  of  salt  and  saltpeter  diminishes,  in  a considerable  de- 
gree, the  nutritive,  and,  to  some  extent,  the  wholesome  qualities  of  meat; 
and,  therefore,  in  their  use,  the  quantity  applied  should  be  as  small  as  pos- 
sible, consistent  with  the  perfect  preservation  of  the  meat,  in  salting  or 
pickling  beef  or  pork  for  family  consumption,  it  not  being  generally  required 
to  be  kept  for  a great  length  of  time,  a less  quantity  of  salt  and  a larger 
quantity  of  other  matters  more  adapted  to  retain  mellowness  in  meat,  may 
be  employed,  which  could  not  be  adopted  by  the  curer  of  immense  quantities  of 
meat.  Sugar,  which  is  well  known  to  possess  the  preserving  principle  in  a 
very  great  degree,  without  the  pungency  and  astringency  of  salt,  may  be, 
and  is,  very  generally  used  in  the  preserving  of  meat  for  family  consump-' 
tion.  Although  it  acts  without  corrugating  or  contracting  the  fibres  of 
meat,  as  is  the  case  in  the  action  of  salt,  and,  therefore,  does  not  impair  its 
mellowness,  yet  its  use  in  sufficient  quantities  for  preservative  effect,  with- 
out the  addition  of 'other  antiseptics,  would  impart  a flavor  not  agreeable  to 
the  taste  of  many  persons.  It  may  be  used,  however,  together  with  salt, 
with  the  greatest  advantage  in  imparting  mildness  and  mellowness  to  cured 
meat,  in  a proportion  of  about  one  partby  weight  to  four  of  the  mixture  ; and, 
perhaps,  now  that  sugar  is  much  lower  in  price  than  it  was  in  former  years, 
one  of  the  obstructions  to  its  more  frequent  use  is  removed. 


Brine  for  Corned  Beef  . — To  one  hundred  pounds  beef,  take  eight  pounds 
»5alt,  five  of  sugar  or  five  pints  molasses  (Orleans  best,  but  any  good  will  do), 
two  ounces  soda,  one  ounce  saltpeter,  four  gallons  soft  water,  or  enough  to 
cover  the  meat.  Mix  part  of  the  salt  and  sugar  together,  rub  each  piece  and 
place  it  in  the  barrel  (oak  is  best),  having  covered  the  bottom  with  salt. 
When  the  meat  is  all  in,  put  the  remainder  of  salt  and  sugar  in  the  water. 
Dissolve  the  soda  and  saltpeter  in  hot  water,  add  it  to  the  brine  and  pour 
over  the  meat ; place  board  on  top  of  meat,  with  a weight  sufficient  to  keep 
it  under  the  brine.  Let  the  pieces  intended  for  Dried  J5ee/ remain  in  the 
brine  for  three  weeks,  take  out,  place  in  a tub,  cover  with  water,  let  stand 
ivernight,  string  and  smoke  for  a few  days,  if  you  like,  hang  it  up  to  ceiling 
over  the  kitchen  stove,  or  on  a frame  set  behind  the  stove,  turn  round  once 
a day  so  as  to  give  all  parts  an  equal  exposure,  and  let  remain  for  three  or 
Wr  weeks.  Test,  by  cutting  a piece,  which  should  be  well  dried  on  the 
outside  and  free  from  rawness  to  the  center.  When  dried,  sprinkle  with 
ground  black  pepper,  put  in  paper  sacks,  tie  up  tightly,  and  hang  in  a cool 
dry,  dark  place,  or  put,  without  sacks  in  an  empty  flour  barrel,  and  cover 
closely.  Tongue  may  be  pickled  with  the  beef.  After  taking  out  the  pieces 
for  dried  beef  it  is  well  to  boil  the  brine,  skim  well  and  when  cold  pour  over 


CUTTING  AND  CJJRING  MEATS. 


1039 


the  pieces  of  corned  beef  left  in  barrel.  For  a Boiled  Brine ; to  one  gallon 
water  take  one  and  a half  pounds  salt,  one-half  pound  sugar,  half  ounce  each 
saltpetre  and  soda.  In  this  ratio  the  pickle  can  be  increased  to  any  quant- 
ity desired.  Let  these  be  boiled  together  until  all  the  dirt  from  the  sugar 
and  salt  rises  to  the  top  and  is  skimmed  off ; then  place  in  a tub  to  cool,  and 
when  cold  pour  over  beef.  The  meat  must  be  well  covered  with  the  pickle, 
and  should  not  be  put  down  for  two  days  after  killing,  during  which  time  it 
may  be  slightly  sprinkled  with  salt.  Boil  and  strain  every  two  months,  add- 
ing three  ounces  brown  sugar  and  a half  pound  common  salt,  always  letting 
brine  cool  before  pouring  over  the  meat.  Some  in  placing  pieces  of  beef  in 
barrel  slightly  sprinkle  each  layer  with  salt. 

Spiced  Corned  Beef. — To  ten  pounds  beef,  take  two  cups  salt,  two  cups 
molasses,  one  table-spoon  saltpeter,  one  table-spoon  ground  peper,  one  table- 
spoon cloves  ; rub  well  into  the  beef,  turn  every  day,  and  rub  the  mixture 
in ; will  be  ready  for  use  in  ten  days.  Some  add  a table-spoon  allspice  and 
piece  of  mace.  To  cook  boil  six  hours.  For  a Spiced  Brine  ,io  onQ  gallon  boil- 
ing water  add  salt  till  it  bears  up  an  egg,  quarter  ounce  saltpeter,  half  ounce 
each  mustard  seed,  cloves,  and  mace,  a cayenne  pod,  an  ounce  ginger  and  a 
pound  brown  sugar.  Boil,  skim  and  when  cold  pour  over  the  pieces  of  beef. 
For  English  Spiced  Beef,  to  a round  of  beef  weighing  Weiity-five  pounds,  take 
one  ounce  cloves,  three  ounces  each  saltpeter  and  coarse  sugar,  half  an  ounce 
of  allspice,  six  ounces  common  salt,  one  nutmeg.  The  beef  should  hang  two 
or  three  days ; then  take  out  the  bone,  and  if  wished  cut  in  two  or  three 
pieces,  rub  the  spices  and  salt  thoroughly  together,  and  rub  them  well  into 
the  beef  on  both  sides  ; cover  the  beef,  turn  and  rub  it  every  day  for  two  or 
three  weeks.  When  you  wish  to  use  it,  dip  it  in  cold  water  to  remove  the 
loose  spice  ; bind  it  closely  several  times  around  the  sides  with  a long  strip  of 
cotton  cloth  two  inches  wide  ; put  it  in  a pan  with  half  a pint  of  water  in  the 
bottom  to  prevent  burning ; cover  the  top  of  the  meat  with  shred  suet,  and 
cover  the  pan  with  a crust  half  an  inch  thick,  made  of  water  and  Graham  or 
other  flour,  seeing  that  it  adheres  to  the  edge  of  the  pan.  Lay  a brown  paper 
over  the  crust : bake  it  slowly  for  five  or  six  hours,  and  when  cold  remove  the 
paste.  The  gravy,  of  which  there  will  be  a large  quantity,  may  be  used  in 
soup,  in  beef-pie  or  in  hash.  The  place  from  which  the  bone  was  taken  may 
be  rubbed  with  fine  chopped  parsley,  and  sweet  herbs  may  be  laid  between 
the  skin  and  the  meat.  To  make  a more  delicious  dish  glaze  the  meat  and 
garnish  with  aspic  j elly . ^ Nice  for  slicing.  Less  saltpeter  can  be  used  if  wish- 
ed, and  twice  the  quantity  of  sugar  may  be  used. 

Philadelphia  Dried  Beef. — For  every  twenty  pounds  of  beef,  take  one 
pint  salt,  one  teaspoon  saltpeter  and  a quarter  of  a pound  of  brown  sugar. 
Divide  the  ingredients  into  three  equal  parts,  and  rub  them  well  into  the 
beef  on  three  successive  days.  The  meat  is  ready  to  hangup  in  one  week. 
It  makes  the  beef  keep  perfectly  without  being  any  too  salt.  Indeed,  a trifle 
more  salt  might  be  added  for  those  who  like  it  quite  salt. 

Stuffed  Spiced  Beef. — To  twenty  pounds  of  round  beef  take  two  and  a half 
pounds  of  suet,  chopped  very  fine,  and  mixed  with  black  pepper  until  it  is 
almost  black.  Mix  with  this  one  handful  whole  allspice,  and  one  of  whole 
cloves  ; punch  holes  in  the  meat  and  stuff  with  suet ; sew  up  in  a bag  very 
tight,  and  cover  well  with  a brine  of  four  gallons  of  water,  one  and  a half 
pounds  of  sugar,  two  ounces  of  pulverized  saltpeter,  and  six  pounds  of  com- 
mon salt.  It  is  ready  for  use  in  three  weeks.  Boil  well,  and  when  cold  remove 
the  bag,  and  slice  from  the  cut  end. 

To  Keep  Meat  Without  Curing. — Hang  the  piece  in  a cool  place,  on  the 
north  side  of  cellar,  and  if  the  weather  should  become  rainy  rub  meat  with  a 


1040 


CUTTING  AND  CURING  MEATS. 


little  salt.  Always  hang  whth  the  cut  side  up  as  otherwise  the  essence  of  th» 
meat  would  be  w'asted.  In  fall  and  winter  meat  may  be  kept  quite  a long 
time  in  this  manner.  If  for  any  reason  there  is  danger  of  tainting  rub  with 
salt  as  above.  Some  rub  either  beef  or  mutton  well  with  salt  and  put  in  a 
closely  covered  vessel  and  keep  for  months  ; always  turning  the  pieces  when 
the  cover  is  removed.  Beefsteak  for  Winter  Use,  cut  the  steaks  large,  and 
the  usual  thickness ; have  ready  a mixture  made  of  salt,  sugar  and  finely 
powdered  saltpeter,  mix  in  the  same  proportion  as  for  corned  beef ; sprinkle 
the  bottom  of  a large  jar  with  salt,  lay  in  a piece  of  steak,  and  sprinkle  over 
it  some  of  the  mixture,  as  much  or  a little  more  than  you  would  use  to  sea- 
son in  cooking,  then  put  in  another  slice,  sprinkle,  and  so  on  until  the  jar  is 
filled,  with  a sprinkle  of  the  mixture  on  top  ; over  all  put  a plate,  with  a weight 
on  it,  and  set  in  a cool,  airy  place,  where  it  will  not  freeze.  This  needs  no 
brine,  as  it  makes  a brine  of  its  own.  Thirty-five  or  forty  pounds  can  be 
kept  perfectly  sweet  in  this  way.  Take  out  to  use  as  wanted,  and  broil  or  fry. 

To  Keep  Meat  Fresh  in  Hot  Weather. — For  a five-pound  piece  of  meat  take 
a three-gallon  stone  crock ; have  some  pans  of  skimmed  milk  that  is  turning 
sour,  just  getting  thick ; put  some  of  the  milk  in  the  crock  ; then  put  in  the 
meat;  then  put  in  milk  till  it  covers  the  meat;  now  turn  an  earthen  dish  or 
plate  bottom-up  on  the  meat  to  hold  it  down ; fill  the  crock  with  the  milk  ; tie 
a cloth  over  the  top,  and  set  in  a cool  place  ; it  will  keep  five  or  six  days  in  the 
hottest  weather.  When  wanted  for  use,  wash  thoroughly  in  water,  and  cook 
in  any  manner  desired. 

To  Care  and  Dry  Beef  Tongues. — For  one  dozen  tongues  make  a brine  of  a 
gallon  and  a half  of  water  (or  enough  to  cover  them  well) , two  pints  good  salt, 
one  of  molasses,  or  one  pound  brown  sugar,  and  four  red  peppers ; bring  to  a 
boil,  skim,  and  set  to  cool.  Pack  the  tongues  in  a large  jar,  and  when  the 
brine  is  entirely  cold,  pour  it  over  them,  put  on  a weight,  let  remain  ten  or 
twelve  days,  take  out,  drain,  and  hang  to  smoke  about  two  days,  then  dry 
moderately,  and  put  away  in  a flour  sack  in  a dry  place.  When  wanted  for 
use,  boil  six  or  eight  hours  in  a pot  filled  with  water,  adding  more  when  nec- 
essary so  as  to  keep  well  covered  all  the  time  until  done  ; when  done,  take  out 
iind  set  away  to  cool,  but  do  not  skin  until  needed  for  the  table.  Some  add 
f;o  this  a half  ounce  saltpeter  and  many  think  an  ordinary  sized  tongue  should 
>'emain  in  pickle  about  a month  and  be  turned  every  day.  If  they  are  not 
dried,  but  left  in  pickle  till  used,  the  brine  should  be  boiled,  skimmed  and 
cooled  once  in  two  weeks.  For  Philadelphia  Cured  Tongues,  trim  and  lay  six 
t >r  eight  tongues  in  boiling  water  for  five  minutes.  After  they  are  cool^  rub 
^ hem  with  a quarter  of  an  ounce  of  saltpeter  mixed  with  a quarter  of  a pound 
of  sugar  or  a small  cup  of  molasses,  and  tw'O  handsful  of  common  salt,  and 
some  add  tablespoon  ground  cloves.  Pack  them  in  an  earthen  or  a porcelain 
vessel,  sprinkle  each  layer  with  the  mixture,  and  put  a weight  on  top  ; turn 
them  every  other  day,  putting  top  one  in  bottom,  and  packing  them  very 
closely.  If  there  is  not  enough  pickle  to  quite  cover  them,  sprinkle  lightly 
with  salt.  After  two  or  three  weeks  hang  up,  and  when  dry  put  aw^ay  as  a- 
bove.  If  you  do  not  desire  to  use  a whole  one  at  once,  it  does  not  injure  it  to 
be  cut  in  two ; but  it  is  best  to  dip  the  end  that  is  cut  in  boiling  water  a mo- 
ment to  seal  up  the  pores  ; or  a way  prefered  by  many  is  as  follow’s  ; sprinkle 
a handful  of  salt  over  one  tongue  on  both  sides,  let  it  remain  to  drain  until 
the  following  day,  make  a pickle  of  a tablespoonful  of  common  salt,  half  that 
quantity  of  saltpeter,  and  the  same  quantity  of  coarse  sugar  as  of  salt;  rub 
this  mixture  w^ell  into  the  tongue,  do  so  every  day  for  a week ; it  will  then  be 
found  necessary  to  add  more  salt,  a table-spoonful  wdll  suffice  ; in  four  more 
days  the  tongue  will  be  cured  sufficiently.  Some  persons  do  not  rub  the 
pickle  into  the  tongue,  but  let  it  absorb  it,  merely  turning  it  daily ; this  method 
will  be  found  to  occupy  a month  or  five  weeks  before  it  will  be  cured.  When 


CUTTING  AND  CURING  MEATS. 


1041 


the  tongue  is  to  be  dried  affix  a paper  to  it  with  a date ; smoke  over  a wood 
fire  four  days  unless  wrapped  in  paper,  and  then  as  many  weeks  will  be  re- 
quired. As  many  tongues  as  wished  can  be  cured  as  above  by  increasing 
amount  of  mixture. 

To  Clean  Tripe. — Empty  the  pauncn  and  rinse  thoroughly  in  cold  water, 
being  careful  not  to  let  any  of  the  contents  get  on  the  outside.  Make  strong 
cleansed  v/ater  or  wffiite  lye  and  heat  a little,  too  warm  to  hold  hands  in,  pour 
over  the  tripe  in  a tub  and  let  it  stand  two  or  three  hours ; then  turn  inside 
out,  tack  it  up  against  a board,  and  with  a knife  scrape  downwards,  taking 
off  the  inner  skin,  or  rinse  it  clean  in  cold  water;  sprinkle  lime  oyer,  then 
scrape  with  a knife  ; if  the  dark  does  not  all  come  off  easily,  sprinkle  more 
lime  on,  and  let  it  lie  for  an  hour  longer,  then  scrape  again,  and  rinse  in  cold 
Avater  and  clean.  Place  in  water  enough  to  cover  with  a large  handful  of  salt 
and  let  the  tripe  remain  in  the  salt  water  three  days  and  nights,  changing 
the  water  each  day,  then  take  out,  cut  in  pieces  about  six  inches  wide  and 
twelve  long,  lay  in  buttermilk  a few  days  to  whiten ; rinse  it  clean  in  cold 
water,  and  boil  until  tender ; it  will  take  from  four  to  ten  hours,  as  it  should 
be  done  so  that  it  can  by  mashed  with  the  fingers.  After  thus  prepared  it 
can  be  cooked  as  preferred.  After  turning  inside  out  some  sew  it  up  so  that  the 
lime  cannot  get  in,  and  put  to  soak  in  limewater  of  the  consistency  of  thick 
whitewash ; leave  in  this  twenty  minutes,  or  until  the  dark  skin  peels  off 
easily.  Kinse  several  times  in  clean  water  and  with  a dull  knife  scrape  off 
the  dark  surface,  continue  to  soak  and  scrape  several  times  to  remove  all  of- 
fensive sebstances  and  smell.  Then  soak  twenty  or  thirty  minutes  in  hot 
water,  changing  two  or  three  times,  scraping  oA^er  each  time,  put  in  salt  and 
water  twelve  hours  (some  have  the  water  hot)  and  it  is  ready  for  cooking- 
Another  way  is  after  rinsing  thoroughly  to  cut  the  tripe  in  convenient  pieces 
and  taking  them  on  a fork  dip  them  into  a boiling  mixture  of  a half  pint  lime 
and  gallon  water.  Then  scrape  on  a board,  dipping  again  if  necessary  to 
loosen  offensive  matter.  Then  finish  as  above,  and  when  ready  to  cook  put 
it  first  in  water  to  cover  Avith  a table-spoon  baking  soda ; when  it  boils  turn 
water  off  and  then  cook  as  wanted , In  buying  tripe  get  the  ^ 'honey-co-mbed.  * * 

How  to  Cut  up  Pork. — Split  through  the  spine,  cut  off  each  half  of  head 
behind  the  ear,  remove  the  pieces  in  front  of  the  shoulder,  for  sausage.  Take 
out  leaf  which  lies  around  the  kidneys,  for  lard;  cut  outthe  lean  meat,  ribs, 
t&tc.  then  the  ham  and  shoulder,  and  remove  the  loose  pieces  directly  in  front 
of  the  ham,  for  lard.  Cut  off  a narrow  strip  of  the  belly  for  sausage  ; and  cut 
up  the  remainder  which  is  clear  pork,  into  five  or  six  strips  of  about  equal 
width  for  salting  down.  Smoke  the  jowl  with  hams,  and  use  the  upper  part 
of  the  head  for  boiling,  or  baking,  or  head-cheese.  Scorch  the  feet  over  the 
fire  until  the  hoofs  remove  easily,  scrape  clean,  place  in  hot  water  a few  min- 
utes, wash  and  scrape  thoroughly  and  they  are  ready  for  cooking.  All  the 
flabby  pieces  should  be  tried  up  for  lard.  Remove  all  fat  from  intestines, 
saving  that  which  does  not  easily  come  off  the  larger  intestines  for  soap- 
grease.  The  liver,  heart,  sweet-breads  and  kidneys  are  all  used  for  boiling 
or  frying,  and  the  smaller  intestines  are  sometimes  used  for  sausage  cases. 

To  Cure  Hams  and  Shoulders. — Make  brine  as  in  the  first  recipe  for  Corned 
Beef  with  the  addition  of  two  pounds  more  of  salt.  Take  part  of  the  mixture 
of  salt  and  sugar,  rub  each  piece  thoroughly  on  fleshy  side,  lay  in  barrel 
{having  hrst  covered  the  bottom  with  salt)  skin  side  down.  When  all  are  in, 
make  a oickle  of  the  remainder  of  the  mixture,  as  directed  and  pour  over  the 
meat : hWe  a round  board,  a little  smaller  than  the  barrel,  place  on  the  meat 
with  a weight  (a  large  stone  is  good,  which  can  be  washed  clean  and  laid  a- 
way  to  be  used  year  qfter  year,)  sufficient  to  keep  it  under  the  brine ; let  re- 
66  ' 


1042 


CUTTING  AND  CUEING  MEATS. 


main  from  four  to  eight  weeks,  according  to  size ; take  out  and  soak  in  water 
over  niyht,  as  this  prevents  a white  crust  from  forming  upon  the  sides  of  the 
ham  when  dried  and  smoked,  drain  and  sprinkle  with  cayenne  pepper,  par- 
ticularly around  the  boue.  Hang  them  ready  to  smoke,  let  them  drain  for 
two  days  and  then  smoke  with  corn  cobs  or  green  hickory  or  maple  wood, 
taking  care  to  have  smoke,  but  not  fire  enough  to  make  heat.  Hang  up  to  smoke 
with  hock  downwards,  as  the  skin  then  retains  the  juices  of  the  meat.  After 
smoking  from  two  to  four  weeks  take  down,  sprinkle  with  ground  black  pep- 
per, tie  tightly  in  whole  paper  sacks,  hang  in  a dry,  dark,  cool  place,  watch- 
ing closely  for  fear  of  mold.  Or,  wrap  in  paper,  sew  in  a coarse,  cotton  bag, 
whitewash  on  the  outside  and  hang  near  the  roof  in  the  garret ; or,  wrap  in 
brown  paper,  and  cover  with  dry  ashes  {dry  leached  ashes  are  best) ; or,  pack 
without  sacks,  hock  end  uppermost,  in  oats  or  shelled  corn,  or  in  clean,  sweet 
haj%  before  flies  come.  Cover  box  or  barrel  closely,  and  keep  in  a dry,  cool 
place.  If  there  is  any  danger  from  flies,  take  direct  from  smoke-house  and 
pack  immediately.  Brine  for  Pickled  Pork  should  have  all  the  salt  it  will 
dissolve,  and  a peck  or  half  bushel  in  bottom  of  barrel  With  salt  between  each 
layer.  If  pork  is  salted  in  this  way  it  will  never  spoil,  but  the  strength  of 
the  brine  makes  it  necessary  to  salt  the  hams  and  sides  separately.  Porx 
when  killed  should  be  thoroughly  cooled  before  salting,  but  should  not  remain 
longer  than  one  or  two  days.  It  should  never  be  frozen  before  salting,  as 
this  is  as  injurious  as  salting  before  it  is  cooled.  Large  quantities  of  pork  are 
lost  by  failing  to  observe  these  rules.  If  pickled  pork  begins  to  sour,  take  it 
out  of  the  brine,  rinse  well  in  clear,  cold  water,  place  a layer  in  a barrel,  on 
this  place  charcoal  in  lumps  the  size  of  a hen’s  egg  or  smaller,  add  a layer  of 
meat  and  so  on,  until  all  is  in  the  barrel,  cover  with  a weak  brine,  let  stand 
twenty-four  hours  ; take  meat  out,  rinse  ofl"  the  charcoal,  put  it  into  a new, 
strong  brine,  remembering  always  to  have  plenty  of  salt  in  the  barrel  (more 
than  the  water  will  dissolve.)  Or  another  way  is  to  take  out  the  pork  rub  it 
thoroughly  with  salt  and  smoke  it.  This  renews  it  perfectly.  If  the  same 
barrel  is  used,  cleanse  it  by  placing  a small  quantity  of  quicklime  in  it,  slack 
with  hot  water,  add  as  much  salt  as  the  water  will  dissolve,  and  cover  tightly 
to  keep  the  steam  in  ; let  stand  for  a few  hours  or  over  night,  rinse  well,  and 
it  is  ready  for  use.  This  is  an  excellent  way  to  cleanse  any  barrel  that  has 
become  impure,  or  wash  out  with  strong  lye.  The  pork  must  not  be  salted  in 
whisky  barrels ; molasses  barrels  are  the  best.  The  whisky  is  said  to  injure 
the  bacon.  Or  for  Buckeye  Ham  and  Bacon,  when  pig  is  killed  and  cool,  cut 
up,  and  begin  immediately  to  salt.  Eub  the  outside  of  each  ham  with  a tea- 
spoon of  powdered  saltpeter,  and  the  inside  with  a teaspoon  of  cayenne  pep- 
per. Mix  together  two  pounds  of  brown  sugar  and  salt,  mixed  in  the  proportion 
of  one  pound  and  a half  of  sugar  to  a pint  of  salt,  and  rub  the  pork  w^ell  with 
it.  This  quantity  of  sugar  and  salt  will  be  sufficient  for  fifty  pounds  of  meat. 
Have  ready  some  large  tubs,  the  bottom  sprinkled  with  salt,  and  lay  the  meat 
in  the  tubs  with  the  skin  downward.  Put  plenty  of  salt  between  each  layer 
of  meat.  After  it  has  lain  eight  days,  take  it  out  and  wipe  off  the  salt,  and 
wash  the  tubs.  Make  a pickle  of  s^t  water,  equal  quantities  of  salt  and  mo- 
lasses and  a little  saltpeter ; allowing  five  ounces  of  saltpeter  to  two  quarts  of 
molasses  and  two  quarts  of  salt,  which  is  the  proportion  for  fifty  pounds  of 
meat.  The  pickle  must  be  strong  enough  to  bear  up  an  egg.  Boil  and  skim 
it,  and,  when  it  is  cold,  pour  it  over  the  meat,  which  must  be  turned  frequently 
and  basted  with  the  pickle.  The  hams  should  remain  in  the  pickle  at  least 
four  weeks ; the  bacon  three  weeks.  They  should  then  be  taken  out  and 
smoked.  Having  washed  off  the  pickle,  before  you  smoke  the  meat,  bury  it 
while  yet  wet  in  a tub  of  bran,  or  sawdust  from  hard  wood.  This  will  form 
a crust  over  it  and  prevent  the  smoke  from  getting  into  the  little  openings, 
and  also  prevent  evaporation  of  the  juices.  Let  the  smoke-house  be  ready 
to  receive  the  meat  immediately.  Take  it  out  of  the  tub  after  it  has  lain  half 


CUTTING  AND  CURING  MEATS. 


1043 


an  hour,  and  rub  the  bran  evenly  over  it,  and  by  sewing  a covering  of  mosquito 
netting  around  the  hams  and  shoulders  the  outside  is  kept  cleaner.  Some 
use  only  the  mosquito  sack  without  rubbing  over  with  bran.  Those  who  have 
very  tender  hams  claim  it  is  caused  by  hanging  them  two  days  after  killing, 
then  beating  with  a rolling  pin  and  salting  and  finishing  as  above.  There  are 
a few  other  things  that  must  be  remembered  in  order  to  have  the  meat  ©f 
a pleasant  taste.  The  place  for  salting  should,  like  a dairy,  always  be 
cool,  but  well  ventilated;  confined  air,  though  cool,  will  taint  meat  sooner 
than  the  mid-day  sun,  accompanied  by  a breeze.  With  regard  to  smoking 
the  bacon,  two  precautions  are  necessary ; first,  to  hang  the  pieces  where  no 
rain  comes  down  upon  them ; and  next,  that  the  smoke  must  proceed  from 
wood,  not  peat,  turf  or  coal.  As  to  the  time  required  to  smoke  it,  it  depends 
a good  deal  upon  whether  there  be  a constant  fire  beneath ; and  whether  the 
fire  be  large  or  small ; a month  will  do  if  the  fire  be  pretty  constant  and  rich, 
as  a farm-house  fire  usually  is  ; but  over-smoking,  or  rather  too  long  hanging 
in  the  air,  makes  the  bacon  rust ; great  attention  should  therefore  be  paid  to 
the  matter.  The  pieces  ought  not  to  be  dried  up  to  the  hardness  of  a board, 
and  yet  ought  to  be  perfectly  dry.  For  York  Hams,  mix  for  each  good  sized 
ham,  teacup  salt,  tablespoon  molasses,  ounce  saltpeter ; lay  hams  in  clean  dry 
tub  ; heat  mixture  and  rub  well  into  hams,  especially  around  the  bones  and 
recesses ; repeat  process  once  or  twice,  or  until  mixture  is  used ; then  let  hams 
lie  two  or  three  days,  when  they  must  be  put  for  three  weeks  in  brine  strong 
enough  to  bear  an  egg ; then  soak  eight  hours  in  cold  water ; hang  up  to  dry 
in  the  kitchen  or  other  more  convenient  place  for  a week  or  more  and  they 
are  ready  to  be  smoked.  Then  hang  up  to  smoke  with  the  small  end  down- 
ward. Tongues  may  be  cured  in  the  above  manner. 

Philadelphia  Hams. — Lay  hams  to  be  cured  on  a slanting  board,  and  rub 
with  fine  salt.  Let  them  lay  forty-eight  hours ; then  wipe  off  the  salt  with  a 
dry  towel,  and  to  each  ham  take  a teaspoon  of  powdered  saltpeter  and  a 
dessertspoon  of  coarse  brown  sugar  and  rub  well  to  the  fieshy  parts  ; then 
pack  in  a tub,  skins  down ; sprinkle  between  each  layer  with  a little  fine  salt, 
in  five  days  cover  them  with  a pickle  made  as  follows : To  one  gallon  of 
Trater  take  one  and  a half  pounds  of  coarse  sugar.  Let  them  lay  five,  six  or 
seven  w'eeks,  according  to  size.  Hang  them  up  to  dry  several  days  before 
smoking.  The  pickle  should  stand  and  be  skimmed,  and  must  be  cold. 

Virginia  Hams. — Smoke  the  barrel,  in  w'hich  hams  are  to  be  pickled, 
hy  inverting  it  over  a kettle  containing  a slow  fire  of  hard  wood,  for  eight 
days  (keeping  water  on  the  head  to  prevent  shrinking) ; in  this  barrel  pack 
hams,  and  pour  over  them,  after  it  has  cooled,  a brine  made  in  proportion 
of  four  gallons  of  water,  eight  pounds  of  salt,  five  pints  of  molasses,  and  four 
ounces  saltpeter,  boiled  and  skimmed  in  the  usual  manner.  They  will  be 
cured  in  eight  or  nine  days,  and  they  may  be  kept  in  the  pickle  for  a year 
without  damage. 

To  Cure  Small  Hams. — In  the  fall,  about  first  of  November,  people  in 
the  country  generally  kill  a good-sized  pig,  to  last  until  “butchering  time.” 
To  cure  hams  of  such,  first  rub  well,  especially  around  the  bone  on  fieshy 
side,  with  one-half  of  the  salt,  sugar,  cayenne  and  saltpetre,  well  pulver- 
ized (same  proportions  as  for  corned-beef),  adding  a teaspoon  of  allspice  to 
each  ham  ; put  a layer  of  salt  in  bottom  of  cask,  and  pack  in  hams  as  closely 
as  possible  ; let  stand  three  or  four  days,  then  make  brine  of  the  other  half 
of  salt,  etc.,  and  pour  over  meat,  putting  a good  weight  on  top  ; w'hen  it  has 
lain  three  or  four  weeks  it  is  ready  for  use.  For  Hams  with  Vinegar,  rnh 
hams  well  wdth  common  salt,  and  leave  them  for  a day  or  two  to  drain ; then 
rub  in  w^ell  the  following  proportions  of  sugar,  salt,  saltpeter,  and  vinegar, 


1044 


CUTTING  AND  CURING  MEATS. 


and  turn  them  every  other  day  To  a ham  from  ten  to  twelve  pounds,  al- 
low one  pound  of  coarse  sugar,  three-fourths  pound  salt,  one  ounce  saltpeter, 
half  teacup  vinegar.  Keep  them  in  the  pickle  one  month,  drain  and  smoke 
over  a wood  fire  for  three  weeks  or  a month. 

To  Keep  Hams. — For  one  hundred  pounds  of  meat,  take  eight  pounds  of 
salt,  two  ounces  saltpeter,  and  four  gallons  water ; put  hams  in  this  pickle  in 
the  fall,  keeping  them  well  under  the  brine  ; in  April,  take  out,  drain  three 
or  four  days,  slice  as  for  cooking,  trim  off  rind,  fry  nearly  as  much  as  for 
table,  pack  in  stone  jars,  pressing  doMm  the  slices  as  fast  as  they  are  laid 
in  the  jars;  when  full,  put  on  a weight,  and  when  entirely  cold  cover  with 
the  fat  fried  out,  or  with  melted  lard  and  cover  jar  closely.  Prepared  in 
this  way,  they  retain  the  ham  flavor  without  being  smoked.  The  gravy  left 
from  frjdng  will  be  found  very  useful  in  cooking.  When  ham  is  wanted  for 
use,  scrape  off  tlie  lard,  remove  a layer  of  meat,  and  always  he  particular  to 
melt  the  lard  and  return  it  immediately  to  the  jar.  It  will  keep  througli  the 
season.  Any  ham  may  be  packed  away  in  this  manner  at  any  time  and 
some  prefer  to  soak  as  for  cooking,  after  slicing,  and  place  in  oven  and  only 
cook  slightly,  then  pack  and  cover  as  above. 

» 

Pickled  Pork. — Some  put  it  up  successfully  in  this  way,  take  a tub,  larg- 
est at  the  bottom  and  tapering  to  the  top,  large  enough  to  hold  the  year’s 
supplj?^ ; when  packed  as  it  should  be,  the  meat  will  not  rise  to  the  top,  the 
slant  of  the  tub  holding  it  down.  It  should  oe  packed  edgewise,  in  regular 
layers,  as  solid  as  possible.  After  putting  a layer  of  salt  in  the  bottom  of 
the  tub  and  pounding  down  the  meat  with  a maul,  fill  the  interstices  with 
salt ; then  alternate  layers  of  meat  and  salt  till  the  tub  is  full.  Fill  up  with 
pure  water.  If  the  barrel  is  sweet,  the  salt  pure,  the  meat  sound,  there  will 
be  no  damaged  pork,  nor  will  skimming  and  scalding  the  brine  be  necessary 
to  have  sweet  pork  the  year  round.  For  putting  down  a small  amount  in  a 
stone  jar,  completely  cover  the  bottom  of  a large  stone  jar  (one  that  will 
hold  five  or  six  gallons  or  more)  with  salt.  Cut  side  meat  in  strips  four  or 
five  inches  wide  and  pack  in  a jar  on  the  edge  placing  the  skin  next  the  jar ; 
lay  it  round  close  as  possible  till  the  bottom  of  the  jar  is  full,  cover  this  com- 
pletely with  salt,  and  so  on  till  the  jar  is  full.  Then  make  a brine  strong 
enough  to  bear  an  egg,  and  pour  over  the  meat  till  it  is  covered.  Meat  if  put 
up  this  way  will  keep  till  late  in  the  fall  and  taste  nearly  as  nice  and  sweet 
as  fresh  meat.  For  Western  Reserve  Pickled  Pork,  allow  the  meat  to  stand 
until  the  animal  heat  is  entirely  out  of  it ; cut  the  sides  into  strips  crosswise  ,* 
cover  the  bottom  of  a barrel  with  salt,  and  pack  in  the  pork  closely  edge- 
wise, with  rind  next  the  barrel ; cover  each  layer  with  salt,  and  proceed  in 
like  manner  until  all  has  been  put  in.  Make  a strong  brine  sufficient  to 
cover  the  pork  (soft  water  is  best,  and  there  is  no  danger  of  getting  it  too 
salt),  boil,  skim  and  pour  into  the  barrel  while  boiling  hot.  Have  a board 
cut  out  round,  a little  smaller  than  the  barrel,  put  over  the  pork,  and  on  it 
place  a weight  heavy  enough  to  keep  it  always  under  the  brine.  If  at  any 
time  the  brine  froths  or  looks  red,  it  must  be  turned  off,  scalded  and  re- 
turned while  hot.  Never  put  told  brine  on  old  pork,  unless  yx)u  wish  to  lose  it. 
In  salting  down  a new  supply  of  pork,  boil  down  the  old*^  brine,  remove  the 
scum,  and  then  pour  it  over  the  pork  as  above. 

Trying  Lard. — When  the  leaf  lard  is  taken  from  the  hog,  it  should  be 
placed  in  a clean  tub.  If  any  pieces  are  bloody  they  ought  to  be  placed  in 
lukewarm  water,  letting  them  remain  until  thoroughly  cleansed,  then  drain 
well  and  use  with  the  other  lard.  The  leaf  lard  can  be  cut  up  in  pieces  an 
inch  square.  Have  kettle  on  fire  on  stove  with  a little  water,  to  which  add 
the  cutup  lard,  letting  it  heat  gradually;  stir  with  a wooden  stick  (hickory 
or  maple)  or  a long  handled  iron  spoon.  The  fat  pieces  of  meat,  which  are 


CUTTING  AND  CURING  MEATS. 


1045 


also  used  for  lard,  are  cut  in  same  manner,  after  taking  off  the  skin,  and 
added  to  the  leaf  lard  in  kettle.  The  skins  should  be  laid  by  themselves  to 
be  tried  out  after  the  lard  is  done.  While  the  lard  is  trying,  as  soon  as  the 
water  is  all  boiled  out,  which  can  be  told  by  the  clearness  of  the  fat  (when 
there  is  water,  it  has  a slightly  milky  appearance)  you  can  begin  dipping  off 
the  clear  lard  and  straining  it  into  the  vessels  ready  for  its  use  (stone  crocks 
are  best) . Some  think  the  quality  of  the  lard  is  improved  by  sprinkling 
over  and  slowly  stirring  in  one  tablespoon  of  soda  to  every  five  gallons  of 
lard,  just  before  removing  from  the  fire.  After  adding  soda,  the  kettle  must 
be  removed  from  the  stove,  and  watched  closely,  and  stirred  constantly,  as 
it  foams  rapidly,  and  is  very  likely  to  run  over,  and  if  on  stove,  is  likely  to 
take  fire.  Do  not  take  out  the  pieces  of  meat  until  well  done.  Be  careful 
not  to  let  it  burn  ; it  is  very  easily  scorched  just  at  the  last ; when  finished, 
the  cracklings  should  be  of  a light  brown  color.  A good  way  to  strain  it  is 
to  place  a towel  over  a colander,  dip  the  lard  into  it,  when  sufficient  is  in, 
two  persons,  one  at  each  end,  can  twist  the  towel  until  all  the  lard  is  out. 
Put  the  cracklings  in  a vessel,  dip  out  more  lard  ; continue  this  way  until  all 
the  lard  is  disposed  of.  Set  the  jar  in  a cool  place  and  stir  it  frequently 
idth  the  wooden  spoon,  so  as  to  insure  the  cooling  of  the  center  as  quickly 
AS  the  outside  ; this  prevents  the  lard  from  becoming  frory  in  the  middle  ; 
or  set  the  lard  in  milk  pans  to  cool.  When  cold,  cut  out,  place  in  jars  and 
pour  over  it  melted  lard  almost  cold  until  it  is  smooth  on  top.  When  ready 
to  set  away  place  a cloth  (linen  is  the  best)  over  it,  with  one  or  two  inches 
of  salt  on  top  of  cloth ; then  cover  the  jar  with  thick  cloth  or  paper,  set  in  a 
dry,  dark  place.  The  web  always  needs  to  be  soaked  in  lukewarm  water 
overnight,  then  drained  well,  after  which  it  can  be  cut  up  and  tried  with  the 
other  lard.  It  is  used  by  the  best  housekeepers  for  clean  lard.  That  from 
the  smaller  intestines,  and  the  flabb}^  pieces,  not  fit  for  salting  should  be 
thrown  into  lukewarm  water  and  allowed  to  stand  for  twenty-four  hours,  and 
then  should  be  tried  by  itself,  and  the  lard  set  away  where  it  will  freeze, 
and,  by  spring,  the  strong  taste  will  be  gone.  A teacup  of  water  prevents 
burning  while  trying.  The  skins  can  be  cut  into  pieces  two  or  three  inches 
square,  placed  in  a large  dripping  pan  and  set  in  the  oven  to  try  out,  as  they 
apt  to  burn  or  stick  to  the  kettle ; stir  them  often,  do  not  let  them  burn. 
They  yield  quite  an  amount  of  fat  which  is  always  useful  in  a family ; then 
the  skins  themselves  make  good  soap  grease.  To  Keep  Lard  From  Mold' 
ing  use  a tub  that  has  had  no  tainted  lard  or  meat  in  it ; scour  it  out  thor- 
oughly with  two  quarts  of  wheat  bran  to  four  of  boiling  water,  but  use  no 
lye  or  soap.  Fry  the  lard  until  the  scraps  are  brown,  but  not  scorched  or 
burned ; remove  from  the  fire,  cool  until  it  can  be  handled,  and  strain  into 
the  prepared  tub  ; when  cold,  set  it  away  in  the  cellar.  Lard  dipped  off  as 
fast  as  it  melts  will  look  very  white,  but  will  not  keep  through  the  summer. 
No  salt  should  be  added,  as  it  induces  moisture  and  invites  mold. 

Brawn. — Split  and  nicely  clean  a hog’s  head;  take  out  brains;  cutoff 
ears,  and  rub  a good  deal  of  salt  into  head ; let  drain  twenty-four  hours ; 
then  lay  on  it  two  ounces  saltpeter,  and  salt,  for  three  days  ; lay  the  head 
and  salt  into  a pan,  with  just  water  to  cover  for  two  days  more.  Wash  well, 
and  boil  until  bones  will  come  out;  remove  them,  and  chop  meat  as  quickly 
as  possible  in  pieces  an  inch  long;  but  first  take  skin  carefully  off' head  and 
tongue;  cut  the  latter  also  in  bits.  Season  with  pepper  and  salt.  Put  the 
skin  of  one  side  of  head  into  a small  long  pan ; press  chopped  head  and 
tongue  into  it,  and  lay  skin  of  other  side  of  head  over,  and  press  it  down. 
When  cold,  it  will  turn  out.  The  head  may  probably  be  too  fat ; in  which 
case,  prepare  a few  bits  of  lean  pork  with  head.  Boii  two  ounces  salt,  pint 
vinegar,  and  quart  of  the  liquor,  and,  when  cold,  pour  it  over  the  head.  The 
ears  are  to  be  boiled  longer  than  head ; cut  in  thin  strips,  and  add  to  it. 
Kttboil  the  pickle  often. 


1046 


CUTTING  AND  CURING  MEATS. 


Smoke-houses. — This  is  one  of  the  nicest  arrangements  for  smoking  meat 
that  a model  farm  can  have,  as  it  makes  a safe  re- 
ceptacle for  ashes  and  also  smokes  meat  when  want- 
ed ; blit  a good  and  cheap  smoke  house  quickly  and 
easily  made  is  to  dig  a trench  about  three  feet  long, 
and  one  half  foot  wide,  cover  it  with  brick,  and  then 
dirt ; at  one  end  of  the  trench  dig  a hole  about  two 
feet  deep,  and  large  enough  to  set  an  old  kettle  or 
something  to  hold  the  fire,  at  the  other  end  of  the 
trench,  place  a barrel,  (with  top  heads  out),  put  a 
stick  across  the  top,  on  which  to  hang  the  meat ; 
cover  the  barrel  with  old  carpet,  or  anything  to 
hold  the  smoke  in.  Or  take  an  old  hogshead,  stop 
up  all  the  crevices,  and  fix  a place  to  put  a cross- 
stick near  the  bottom,  to  hang  the  articles  to  be 
smoked  on.  Next,  in  the  side,  cut  a hole  near  the 
top,  to  introduce  an  iron  pan  filled  with  sawdust 
and  small  pieces  of  green  wood.  Having  turned  the 
tub  upside  dovrn,  hang  the  articles  upon  the  cross- 
stieks,  introduce  the  iron  pan  in  the  opening,  and 
place  a piece  of  red-hot  iron  in  the  pan,  cover  it 
with  sawdust,  and  all  will  be  complete.  Let  a large 
ham  remain  forty  hours,  and  keep  up  a good  smoke. 


Sausages. — To  make  these  easily  and  perfectly  a meat  chopper  is  almost 
indispensable.  It  is  also  of  great  help  in 
making  mince-meat. 

Beef  Sausages. — Chop  very  fine  three 
pounds  very  lean  beef  with  a pound  and  a 
half  suet.  Season  with  powdered  sage, 
allspice,  pepper  and  salt  and  force  the 
meat  into  skins  that  have  been  thoroughly 
cleansed,  or  make  into  cakes. 


Bologna  Sausage.—^Ys.  pounds  lean  pork,  three  of  beef,  two  of  suet,  four 
ounces  salt,  six  tablespoons  black  pepper,  two  tablespoons  cayenne  pepper, 
two  teaspoons  cloves,  one  teaspoon  allspice,  and  one  minced  onion ; or  season 
to  taste.  Grind  the  meat  and  mix  well  with  the  seasoning;  pack  in  beef 
skins,  tie  both  ends  tight,  and  lay  in  strong  brine  for  a week,  then  change 
into  a new  brine  for  another  week,  turning  them  frequently.  Take  them 
out,  wipe  dry,  and  smoke  theni ; rub  the  surface  with  butter,  and  hang  in  a 
cool  dark  place.  Or  take  equal  quantities  of  bacon  (fat  and  lean),  beef, 
veal,  pork,  and  beef  suet,  grind  together,  season  with  pepper,  salt,  sweet 
herbs,  sage  rubbed  fine,  and  spices  if  liked  and  sifted  bread  crumbs  or  boiler 
rice  is  sometimes  added,  though  this  is  not  done  when  the  sausage  is  wanted 
to  keep  any  length  of  time.  Fill  skins  and  prick  them  ; boil  gently  an  hour,  and 
lay  on  a straw  or  hang  up  to  dry.  May  be  smoked  as  above.  An  equal 
weight  of  ham,  veal  and  pork,  highly  seasoned  and  boiled  in  casings  till 
tender,  then  dried,  makes  very  nice  Bologna  sausage  also,  and  they  are 
often  made  of  beef  and  pork  alone,  using  proportion  of  about  one  third  pork 
to  two-thirds  beef,  Season  to  taste  and  put  up  as  above.  A nice  way  of 
Serving  is  to  cut  into  slices  not  quite  a quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  skin  them 
and  lay  them  lapping  over  each  other  round  a mound  of  parsley.  This  is  of 
the  nature  of  a salad  and  may  be  served  with  the  cheese  course  or  just  after 
the  soup  and  fish  courses. 


CUTTING  AND  CURING  MEATS. 


1047 


Liver  Sausage. — Boil  pigs’  livers,  mince,  and  season  with  pepper,  salt, 
cloves,  chopped  sweet  marjoram  and  sage.  Put  in  skins,  prick  them,  and 
boil  slowly  an  hour  or  so.  Keep  in  covered  jars,  to  eat  cold  in  slices,  or  to 
fry  in  larger  pieces.  Boiled  pigs’  feet  may  be  mixed  with  the  livers. 

Mixed  Sausages. — Clean  carefully  two  hogs’  heads,  two  lights,  two  livers 
and  cut  oft'  all  the  good  parts  of  a dozen  melts  ; soak  overnight  in  a tub  of  salt 
and  water  with  a half  dozen  sweetbreads  and  same  number  of  kidneys  split 
open.  In  the  morning  put  all  in  a kettle  to  boil  with  two  slices  fat  pork; 
when  done  cool  a little  and  grind  in  a sausage  grinder,  adding  some  of  the 
fat  skimmed  from  top  of  kettle.  While  grinding,  season  with  Wack  pepper, 
salt  and  finely  chopped  onion  to  taste.  If  not  rich  enough  add  more  fat 
pork  ; if  stufi’ed  boil  again  for  a few  moments. 

Pork  Sausage. — A good  rule  is  to  allow  one.  third  fat  meat  to  two  thirds 
lean,  a teaspoon  each  salt,  pepper  and  sage  to  each  pound  meat,  and  a teas- 
poon each  allspice  or  cloves,  ginger  and  summer  savory  to  every  three 
pounds.  Or  season  to  taste,  and  when  making  a quantity  it  is  well  to  test 
by  frying  a little j and  add  more  seasoning  if  liked.  When  making  for  long 
keeping  do  not  add  either  flour  or  bread  crumbs,  which  are  sometimes  used 
to  keep  the  fat  from  running  out  when  cold.  Put  through  a sausage  grinder 
or  chop  fine.  Press  into  thoroughly  cleaned  skins,  or  pack  in  jars,  covering 
with  lard  or  clarified  drippings  to  depth  of  half  an  inch  and  tie  paper  over. 
Y or  Buckeye  Pork  Sausage,  to  ten  pounds  meat  take  five  tablespoons  sage, 
four  of  salt  and  two  of  pepper.  Some  add  one  tablespoon  ginger,  and  some 
a little  summer  savory.  When  nicely  minced,  pack  in  jars  as  above.  If 
kept  in  a cool  place,  and  care  taken  to  replace  the  lard,  there  is  no  difficulty 
in  keeping  sausage  perfectly  fresh  almost  any  length  of  time.  Some  per- 
sons partially  cook  meat  before  packing,  but  this  is  not  necessary.  Fresh 
meat  may  be  kept  nicely  in  the  same  way,  being  first  seasoned  with  salt  and 
pepper.  Or,  one  pound  salt,  one-half  pint  of  sage  and  three  and  one-half 
ounces  pepper,  scattered  over  forty  pounds  of  meat  before  grinding.  For 
Ck)ld  Sliced  Sausage,  use  small,  well-baked,  earthen  pots ; take  one  handful 
of  sausage  after  another,  press  firmly  into  the  pot  until  it  is  nearly  full.  Then 
place  in  an  oven,  hot  enough  to  bake  bread ; bake  a puarter  of  an  hour  for 
each  pound  of  sausage  ; that  is,  if  there  are  eight  pounds,  bake  for  two  hours  ; 
and  when  done,  place  a weight  on  it  until  it  is  cold  ; remove  the  weight  and 
fill  with  hot  lard.  Place  upside  down  on  a shelf  in  a dark,  dry  corner  of  the 
cellar  until  wanted ; then  put  in  oven  long  enough  to  melt  the  lard  ; remove 
sausage  from  pot,  and,  when  cold,  slice  for  table.  Put  no  sage  in  sausage 
that  is  to  be  kept  so  long.  * 

Summer  Sausage. — In  summer,  when  fresh  pork  cannot  be  procured, 
very  good  sausage-cakes  may  be  made  of  raw  beef,  chopped  fine  with  salt 
pork,  seasoned  with  pepper  and  sage,  and  spices  and  herbs  if  liked. 

Triple  Sausage. — Take  equal  parts  pork  (fat  and  lean.)  veal  and  beef  suet, 
grind  or  chop  fine  and  to  every  three  pounds  meat  and  seasoning  of  grated 
rind  of  half  a lemon,  small  nutmeg  grated,  six  powdered  sage  leaves,  one 
teaspoon  “pepper,  two  of  salt  and  half  teaspoon  each  summer  savory  and 
marjoram  with  a half  pint  bread  crumbs.  Pack  for  use  as  Pork  Sausage. 

Virginia  Sausage.— Vick  the  sausage  meat  to  get  out  all  the  pieces  of 
bones  and  strings  ; wash  it  in  luke  wacm  water,  and  lay  on  a table  to  drain ; 
let  it  stand  all  night.  Take  off  some  of  the  fat  from  the  backbone  to  mix 
with  the  lean.  If  you  use  ‘‘leaf  fat”  when  you  fry  the  sausage,  it  will  melt 
away  to  gravy  and  leave  a little  knot  of  lean,  hard  and  dry,  floating  in  a sea 
of  melted  grease.  The  fat  must  be  taken  off  before  the  chines  are  salted, 
and  washed,  skinned  and  put  to  drain  with  the  lean.  Next  day,  chop  it 


1048 


CUTTING  AND  CURING  MEATS. 


fine,  picking  out  all  the  strings.  When  fine  enough,  season  it  with  salt, 
sage,  black  and  red  pepper,  to  taste.  Pack  it  in  a close  vessel.  If  you  wish, 
to  stuff  them,  have  some  nicely-cleaned  chitterlings  kept  in  salt  and  water 
ten  days  or  a fortnight.  Stuff,  hang  on  sticks  and  dry.  A little  smoke  im- 
proves them ; too  much  makes  them  bitter. 

Matton. — This  is  cut  up  as  directed  and  corned  and  dried  the  same  way 
that  beef  is. 

Veal. — To  cut  the  pieces  up  for  use  follow  directions  in  illustration.  For 
Calf’s  Head  and  Feet,  the  first  thing  to  do  is  to  remove  the  hair,  unless  pur- 
chased at  the  butchers  when  they  will  be  nicely  scraped,  and  will  only  need 
to  be  wiped  carefully  with  a damp  towel  so  that  no  hair  adheres.  To  remove 
the  entire  hair  drop  the  head  and  feet  into  a tub  of  hot  water  that  has  had  a 
shovelful  of  wood  ashes  boiled  in  it,  or  a few  crumbs  of  concentrated  lye,  or 
washing  soda.  The  water  must  not  be  quite  boiling  hot,  as  that  will  set  the 
hair  and  make  cleaning  difficult.  Churn  them  about  with  a stick  of  wood  a 
few  minutes,  then  scrape  with  a sharp  knife.  Put  the  head  into  cold  water 
and  leave  it  there  to  draw  out  the  blood  for  a moment,  and  dry  well  with  a 
towel.  Roast  the  hoofs  in  hot  coals  and  pry  off  with  a knife  point,  or  some 
wash  head  and  feet  clean,  sprinkle  powdered  resin  over  the  hair,  dip  them 
in  boiling  water  and  take  out  immediately,  and  then  scrape  them  clean ; after- 
wards soak  them  in  water  four  days,  changing  the  water  every  day. 

To  prepare  for  use  there  are  different  ways  ; some  cut  from  between  the 
ears  to  the  nose  touching  the  bones  ; then  cutting  close  to  it,  take  off  flesh, 
turn  over  the  head,  cut  open  the  jaw-bone  from  underneath,  and  take  out 
tongue  whole.  Turn  the  head  back  again,  crack  the  top  of  skull  between  the 
ears  and  take  out  the  brains  whole  ; cut  the  head  through  the  center,  remove 
the  skin  from  the  nasal  passage  and  cleanse  thoroughly  by  scraping  and 
scalding.  Or  remove  the  skin,  cut  open  from  throat  to  edge  of  lower  jaw, 
without  breaking  more  than  necessary  and  put  skin  aside  in  cold  water  for 
soup.  To  remove  the  brain  cut  the  skull  with  a meat  saw  from  between  the 
ears  and  above  the  eyes  and  the  brain  may  be  then  taken  out  without  breaking. 

To  Bone  a Head ; place  it  on  table  with  the  front  part  of  the  head  facing 
you ; draw  the  sharp  point  of  a knife  from  the  back  part  of  the  head  right 
down  to  the  nose,  making  an  incision  down  to  the  bone  of  the  skull ; then 
with  the  knife  clear  the  scalp  and  cheeks  from  the  bones  right  and  left,  always 
keeping  the  point  of  the  knife  close  to  the  bone.  If  you  have  not  previously 
removed  the  brains,  they  are  best  removed  before  boning,  chop  the  head  in 
two  and  remove  them  as  carefully  as  possible.  When  the  head  has  been 
boned  wash  it  well,  wipe  it  with  a clean  cloth,  season  the  inside  with  salt 
and  pepper,  roll  it  up  with  the  tongue,  tie  it  up,  and  parboil  it  in  hot  water 
for  ten  minutes  ; then  put  it  into  cold  water  a few  minutes,  wipe  it  dry,  and 
set  it  aside  until  wanted ; this  is  blanching  it.  In  removing  brains  be  very 
careful  not  to  break  them ; prepare  them  either  by  single  or  double  blanching. 
To  Single  Blanch  first  soak  in  salted  water  one  hour  or  simply  wash  in  several 
waters,  then  remove  every  particle  of  the  thin  skin  or  membrane  covering 
the  soft  inner  substance  very  carefully  without  breaking;  put  over  the  fire  in 
quart  cold  water  with  a seasoning  of  salt  and  table-spoon  vinegar  and  boil 
fifteen  minutes,  lay  in  cold  water  till  wanted  which  should  not  be  very  long. 
To  Double  Blanch,  cover  them  with  cold  water  and  let  heat  slowly  until  the 
fine  outside  skin  can  be  removed  easily,  then  put  them  in  fresh  water  and  let 
them  heat  again  slowly,  till  all  the  blood  comes  out  and  they  are  entirely 
white.  Take  them  out  and  put  in  boiling  water  with  a little  salt  and  table- 
spoon vinegar,  boil  them  hard  for  ten  minutes  or  till  quite  firm.  Take  them 
Dut  and  drop  into  cold  water  for  a few  minutes  or  till  ready  for  use,  although 
)hat  should  not  be  long,  then  drain  on  a cloth. 


CUTTING  AND  CURING  MEATS. 


1049 


Sweet-breads. — These  are  considered  great  delicacies  and  are  the  most  ex- 
pensive parts  of  meat.  Those  of  calves  are  best,  but  for  hints  as  to  purchasing 
see  Marketing.  Blanching  Sweet-breads  is  always  necessary  before  cooking, 
and  as  they  will  not  keep  long  this  should  be  done  as  soon  as  brought  from 
market.  Some  put  them  for  half  an  hour  in  luke-warm  water,  then  throw 
into  boiling  water  to  blanch  and  harden,  and  then  into  cold  or  ice  water  to 
cool ; after  which  draw  off  the  outer  casing,  trim  off  all  particles  of  fat,  veins, 
membranes,  etc.,  and  cook  as  liked.  Others  put  to  soak  in  cold  water  for 
about  an  hour,  adding  tablespoon  salt  to  each  quart  water.  Then  draw  a 
lardoon  of  pork  through  the  center  of  each,  put  into  salted  boiling  water  and 
cook  until  thoroughly  done.  Throw  again  into  cold  water  for  a few  minutes 
and  they  will  be  firm  and  white.  Carefully  remove  the  skin  and  little  pipes 
and  set  away  in  cool  place  until  ready  to  cook.  Some  merely  skin,  then 
place  in  cold  water  ten  minutes  or  so,  when  they  are  ready  to  boil.  Sweet- 
breads should  always  be  parboiled  twenty  minutes  before  cooking  in  any 
manner.  Any  flavor  liked  may  be  given  sweet-breads  by  adding  spices,  herbs, 
or  vegetables  to  the  water  in  w'hich  they  are  parboiled.  A good  rule  for  two 
quarts  water  is,  two  tablespoons  vinegar,  one  of  salt,  a bay  leaf,  dozen  whole 
cloves,  teaspoon  pepper  corns,  small  red  pepper,  sprig  of  any  dry  herb,  excep*- 
sage,  (thyme  marjoram  or  summer  savory)  sprigs  of  parsley,  or  small  root  o! 
parsley.  Set  away  in  cool,  place  until  dry  wanted. 

Poultry. — Are  served  either  whole  or  cut  up.  Do  not  feed  poultry  fo  " 
twenty-four  hours  before  killing ; and  some  give  them  a tablespoon  of  vinegau 
an  hour  before  killing ; catch  them  without  frightningor  bruising,  tie  the  feet 
together,  hang  up  on  a horizontal  pole,  tie  the  wings  together  over  the  back 
with  a strip  of  soft  cotton  cloth : let  them  hang  five  minutes,  then  cut  the 
throat  or  cut  off  the  head  with  a very  sharp  knife,  and  allow  them  to  hang 
until  the  blood  has  ceased  to  drip.  The  thorough  bleeding  renders  themea^/ 
more  white  and  wholesome.  Scald  well  by  dipping  in  and  out  of  a pail  oi 
tub  of  boiling  w^ater,  being  careful  not  to  scald  so  much  as  to  set  the  feathers 
and  make  them  more  difficult  to  pluck ; place  the  fowl  on  a board  with  head 
towards  you,  pull  the  feathers  away  from  you  which  will  be  in  the  direction 
they  naturally  lie  (if  pulled  in  a contrary  direction  the  skin  is  likely  to  be^ 
torn) , be  careful  to  remove  all  the  pin-feathers  with  a knife  or  pair  of  tweezers ; 
singe,  but  not  smoke,  over  blazing  pa^Der  on  the  stove,  or  some  prefer  alcohol. 

To  Cut  up  a Chicken. — Lay  the  chicken  on  a board  kept  for  the  purpose, 
cut  off  the  feet  at  first  joint ; cut  a slit  in  the  neck,  take  out  the  windpipe  and 
crop,  cut  off  the  wings  and  legs  at  the  joint  wiiich  unites  them  to  the  body, 
separate  the  first  joint  of  the  leg  from  the  second,  cut  off  the  oil  bag,  make  a 
slit  horizontally  under  the  tail,  cut  the  end  of  the  entrails  loose,  extend  the 
slit  on  each  side  of  the  joint  where  the  legs  were  cut  off ; then,  with  the  left 
hand,  hold  the  breast  of  the  chicken,  and  with  the  right,  bend  back  the  rump 
until  the  joint  in  the  back  separates,  cut  it  clear  and  place  in  water.  Take 
out  the  entails,  using  a sharp  knife  to  separate  the  eggs  (if  any),  and  all  other 
particles  to  be  removed,  from  the  back,  being  careful  in  removing  the  heart 
and  liver  not  to  break  the  gall-bag  (a  small  sack  of  blue-green  color  about  an 
inch  long  attached  to  the  liver) ; separate  the  back  and  breast ; commence  at 
the  high  point  of  the  breast  and  cut  downwards  tow^ards  the  head,  taking  off 
part  of  the  breast  v/ith  the  wdsh-bone  ; cut  the  neck  from  that  part  of  the  back 
to  which  the  ribs  are  attached,  turn  the  skin  off  the  neck,  and  take  out  all 
lumps  and  stringy  substances ; very  carefully  remove  the  gall-bag  from  the 
liver,  and  clean  the  gizzard  by  making  an  incision  through  the  thick  part  and 
first  lining,  peeling  off  the  fleshy  part,  leaving  the  inside  whole  and  ball- 
shaped ; if  the  lining  breaks,  open  the  gizzard,  pour  out  contents,  peel  off 
inner  lining,  and  wash  thoroughly.  After  washing  in  second  water,  the  chick- 
en is  ready  to  be  cooked.  Some  prefer  to  cut  the  chicken  with  a sharp  knife. 


1050 


CUTTING  AND  CURING  MEATS. 


thinking  that  when  divided  according  to  the  joints  some  portions  will  be  hare 
of  meat.  To  do  this,  after  cleaning,  split  the  fowl  in  halves  lengthwise.  This 
can  be  done  by  cutting  down  the  middle  of  the  back  with  a sharp  kitchen 
knife,  laying  the  fowl  wide  open  and  chopping  through  the  breast  bone  in- 
side. Lay  a half  on  the  board  and  sever  the  drumsticks  by  chopping  through 
the  joint.  Chop  through  the  hip  joint,  or  a little  on  the  meaty  side  of  it,  and 
slantwise,  taking  at  that  cut  the  side  bone  and  tail  end,  all  sufficiently  cov- 
ered with  meat,  a little  derived  from  the  second  joint,  and  then  cut  off  the 
second  joint  by  chopping  straight  acrosss  the  fowl,  making  three  pieces  of 
equal  weight  of  that  quarter.  Cut  off  the  two  small  joints  of  the  wing.  Chop 
off  the  main  joint  slantwise,  so  that  it  will  have  attached  to  it  the  piece  of 
neck  bone  and  a small  portion  of  the  breast.  There  willl  remain  nearly  the 
entire  breast,  which  should  be  chopped  straight  across  and  made  two  pieces. 
Cut  up  the  other  half  of  the  fowl  in  the  same  way.  It  is  just  the  skillful 
carving  of  a whole  cooked  fowl  in  results ; a proper  method  of  cutting  up 
gives  each  person  at  table  a piece  of  meat  of  equally  good  appearance,  and 
not  to  one  meat  and  to  next  a dark-looking  piece  of  bone,  already  stripped. 


Ready  for  Plumping. 


To  Cut  up  a Turkey  to  Cook  Whole. — After  killing  and  singeing,  plump  it 
by  plunging  quickly  three  times  into  boiling  water  and  then  three  times  into 
cold,  holding  it  by  the  legs ; place  on  a meat-board,  and  with  a sharp  knife 
cut  off  the  legs  a little  below  the  knee,  to  prevent  the  muscles  from  shrink- 
ing away  from  the  joint,  and  remove  the  oil-bag  from 
the  tail ; take  out  the  crop,  either  by  making  a slit 
at  the  back  of  the  neck  or  in  front(the  latter  is  better) 
taking  care  that  every  thing  pertaining  to  the  crop 
or  windpipe  is  removed,  cut  the  neck-bone  off  close 
to  the  body,  leaving  the  skin  a good  length  to  be 
stuffed ; cut  around  vent,  cut  a slit  three  inches  long 
from  the  tail  upwards,  being  careful  to  cut  only 
through  the  skin,  put  in  the  finger  at  the  breast  and 
detact  all  the  intestines,  taking  care  not  to  burst  the 
gall-bag  (situated  near  the  upper  part  of  the  breast-bone,  and  attached  to 
the  liver ; if  broken,  no  washing  can  remove  the  bitter  taint  left  on  every 

spot  it  touches) ; put  in  the  hand  at  the  in-  — 

cision  near  the  tail  and  draw  out  carefully 
all  intestines ; split  the  gizzard  and  take  out 
the  inside  and  inner  lining  (throw  liver, 
heart,  and  gizzard  into  water,  wash  well, 
and  lay  aside  to  be  cooked  and  used  for  the 
gravy) ; wash  the  fowl  thoroughly^  in  cold 
vater  twice,  (some  wipe  carefully  with  a wet 
cloth,  and  afterwards  with  a dry  cloth  to 
make  perfectly  clean,  instead  of  washing), 
hang  up  to  drain,  then  stuff,  skewer,  and  place  to  roast  as  directed  in  Roast 
Turkey.  A chicken  is  prepared  in  same  way  and  trussed  as  illustrated. 

To  Bone  Chicken  and  Turkey. — If  chicken,  choose  a large  one,  at  least 
one  year  old,  pick,  singe  and  wipe  with  wet  towel,  but  do  not  draw.  If  you 
buy  already  dressed,  see  that  it  is  not  frozen  as  freezing  makes  it  tear  easily 
and  also  be  particular  every  part  is  whole,  as  little  breaks  in  skin  will  spoil 
the  result.  Cut  off  legs  about  one  and  one  half  inches  above  joint,  cut  off 
wings  between  last  joint  and  body,  cut  off  neck  close  to  body  and  take  out 
the  crop  without  breaking  the  skin  of  the  neck.  Now 
with  a small,  sharp  knife  make  a smooth  cut  through  ^ ^ 

the  skin,  and  flesh,  down  the  line  of  the  backbone,  ® 

from  the  neck  to  the  rump  ; then  begin  at  the  neck  to  cut  off  the  flesh  and 
skin  together  from  the  carcass ; work  with  the  point  of  the  knife,  holding  it 


Front  of  Chicken. 


Back  of  Chicken. 


CUTTING  AND  CURING  MEATS. 


1051 


flat  against  the  bone,  and  cutting  all  the  flesh  off  attached  to  the  skin  ; first 
cut  from  the  neck  to  the  joint  where  the  wing  is  connected  with  the  body, 
then  unjoint  that,  and  leave  the  bone  of  the  wing  in  tiie  flesh  for  the  pres- 
ent, and  continue  to  cut  down  the  back  and  sides  until  the  thigh  joint  is 
reached  ; uiijoint  that,  leaving  the  bone  in  the  leg,  and  cut  toward  the  breast- 
bone, being  careful  not  to  cut  tlirough  the  skin  wliere  it  is  stretched  tight 
over  the  breast ; when  the  flesh  of  one  side  of  the  bird  is  loosened  from  tlie 
carcass  in  this  way,  turn  it  over  and  take  off  the  other  side.  Great  care 
must  be  taken  not  to  cut  through  the  carcass  into  the  intestines,  which  may 
remain  inclosed  in  it  until  it  is  entirely  freed  from  the  flesh  and  skin  ; the 
most  difficult  part  of  tlm  operation  is  cutting  off  tlie  breast  witliout  breaking 
or  tearing  the  skin  ; if  this  accident  happens  the  aperture  must  be  sewed  up 
before  the  bird  is  stutfed.  When  tke  flesh  is  free  from  the  carcass,  lay  it 
skin  down  on  the  table,  and  distribute  tlie  flesh  equally  all  over  the  skin, 
cutting  the  thickest  iiortions  and  laying  them  open  like  the  leaves  of  a book, 
so  as  to  cover  the  skin ; cut  out  the  wing  and  thighbones,  and  turn  the  flesh 
and  skin  inside,  like  the  fingers  of  a glove  reversed.  Stuff  and  roll  in  shape 
as  directed  for  a Turkey  Galatine  and  after  l)eing  boiled  and  presse.d  in  a 
pan  or  mold,  remove  cloth,  place  it  in  a vessel,  a size  larger  than  that  in 
which  it  was  pressed  but  same  shape,  and  fill  the  space  with  aspic  jelly 
poured  in  nearly  cold  ; when  set  dip  a moment  in  warm  water,  turn  out  and 
it  is  ready  to  be  decorated.  Although  we  have  given  many  fillings  in  Poultiu/' 
Department  here  is  one  differing  somewhat.  For  a turkey  weighing  seven 
pounds,  take  the  meat  of  one  chicken  weighing  four  pounds,  one  imund  of 
lean  veal,  half  a pound  of  lean  salt  pork,  small  cup  cracker  crumbs,  two  eggs, 
one  cup  broth,  two  and  a lialf  tablespoons  salt,  half  teaspoon  pepper  and 
sage,  one  teaspoon  each  summer  savory,  sweet  marjoram,  and  thyme,  and, 
if  liked,  one  tablespoon  capers,  qua,rt  of  oysters  and  two  tablespoons  onion 
juice.  Have  the  meat  uncooked  and  free  from  any  tough  pieces.  Ch.o\)very 
fine.  Add  seasoning,  crackers,  etc.,  mix  thoroughly,  and  use.  If  oysters 
are  used,  half  a pound  of  the  veal  must  be  omitted. 

Another  method  of  boning  a turkey  to  truss  in  original  shape  is  as  fol- 
lows ; prepare  as  above  without  drawing,  cut  off  legs  in  the  joints,  and  tips 
of  wings,  place  on  its  lireast  and  cut  down  the  back  through  to  the  bone 
from  the  neck  down  to  where  there  is  but  little  flesh,  where  it  is  all  skin  and 
fat.  Begin  at  neck,  and  run  knife  between  flesh  and  bones  until  you  come 
to  wing.  Then  cut  ligaments  that  hold  bones  together  and  tendons  that 
liold  flesh  to  bones.  With  thumb  and  fore-finger,  prei<s  flesh  from  smooth 
bone.  AVhen  you  come  to  the  joint,  carefully  separate  ligaments  and  re- 
move bone.  Do  not  try  to  take  bone  from  next  joint,  as  that  is  not  in  the 
way  wdien  carving,  and  it  gives  a more  natural  shape  to  turkey.  Now  begin 
at  wish-bone,  and  when  that  is  free  from  the  flesli,  run  knife  between  sides 
and  flesh,  always  using  fingers  to  press  the  meat  from  the  smooth  bones,  as, 
for  instance,  the  breast-bone  and  lower  part  of  the  sides.  Work  around 
edges  the  same  as  around  wings,  always  using  great  care  at  joints  not  to  cut 
skill.  Drawing  out  the  leg  bones  turns  that  part  of  the  bird  inside  out.  Turn 
turkey  over,  and  proceed  in  the  same  manner  with  the  other  side,  When 
all  is  detached,  carefully  draw  skin  from  breast-bone;  then  run  the  knife 
between  the  fat  and  bone  at  the  rump,  leaving  the  small  bone  in  the  ex- 
treme end,  as  it  holds  the  skeivers.  Carefully  remove  the  flesh  from  the 
skeleton,  and  turn  it  right  side  out  again.  Bub  into  it  two  tablespoons  salt 
and  a little  iiejiper,  and  fill  with  dressing.  Sew  up  back  and  neck  and  then 
the  vent.  Truss  the  same  as  if  not  boned.  By  leaving  the  wings  and  legs 
unboned  the  natural  form  is  more  easily  given  to  the  turkey  in  trussing  and 
some  prefer  it  thus,  ft  is  verv  nice  to  hone  rhieken  or  tar/xy  for  fricassees , cur- 
ries and  vies  ; to  do  this  fi  st  cut  them  up  in  pieces,  then  begin  with  the  legs  , 


1052 


CUTTING  AND  CURING  MEATS. 


take  the  end  of  the  large  hone  firmly  in  the  fingers,  and  cut  the  flesh  clean 
from  it  down  to  the  next  joint,  round  which  pass  the  point  of  the  knife  care- 
fully, and  when  the  skin  is  loosened  from  it  in  every  part,  cut  round  the  next 
])one,  keeping  the  edge  of  the  knife  close  to  it,  until  the  w'hole  of  the  leg  is 
done.  Keniove  the  bones  of  the  other  ieg  in  same  manner;  then  take  wings 
and  proceed  with  these  as  with  the  legs,  but  be  especially  careful  not  to 
pierce  the  skin  of  the  second  joint ; the  rest  of  the  pieces  are  very  easily 
boned  after  the  directions  given  for  boning  an  entire  fowl. 

Shell  Fish. — The  Oyster  is  the  most  used  of  rdl  shell-fish  and  its  prepar- 
ation for  cooking  is  so  simple  that  it  is  full}’-  given  in  Shell-fish  Department. 
Hard-shell  Crabs  are  prepared  for  use  the  same  as  Lobsters.  Soft-shell 
Crabs  are  always  used  alive  and  prepared  for  cooking  as  folloAvs  : Turn  the 
crab  on  its  back,  lift  up  the  a|)ron,  or  i)ointed  flap  which  lies  near  the  back 
of  the  shell,  and  either  break  off  from.it  the  tuft  of  fin-like  portions  attached 
to  it,  or  remove  it  entirely ; press  first  one  side  and  then  the  other  of  the 
back  shell  away  from  the  body,  and  take  out  the  tough  fibrous  organs  called 
the  ‘hleadmen”;  lay  the  crab  on  its  back  on  the  table,  and  with  a small 
sharp  knife  cut  out  a semi-circle  from  the  head,  including  the  eyes  and  the 
sand  bag  ; then  wash  the  crab  in  cold  salted  water,  dry  it  on  a clean  towel, 
and  it  is  ready  to  be  cooked  as  wished. 

Lobsters. — When  purchased  alive,  to  remove  the  shell  tie  the  claws  to- 
gether and  plunge  head-first  into  boiling  water,  adding  a gallon  of  latter, 
tablespoon  salt  and  some  add  teacup  vinegar.  Boil  steadily  for  twenty  or 
thirty  minutes  or  until  thb  shell  turns  red.  Too  long  boiling  toughens  it 
and  destroys  the  fine  delicate  flavor  of  the  meat,  for  small  ones  some  only 
boil  half  as  long.  When  done  it  is  nice  to  let  it  drain  face  downward  on  a 
sieve.  Take  it  from  the  boiling  water,  cool  a little,  and  then  break  off  claw^s 
and  tail,  remove  and  throw  away  the  soft  fins  which  lie  under  the  legs,  close 
to  tlie  body  of  the  lobster,  separate  tail  from  body,  and  shake  out  the  tom- 
ally,  and,  also,  the  ‘‘coral,’’  if  there  is  any,  upon  a plate.  Then  by  drasying 
body  from  the  shell  with  the  thumb,  and  pressing  the  part  near  head  against 
shell  with  first  and  second  finger,  you  will  free  it  from  the  stomach  or  ‘ ‘lady . ’ ’ 
Now'  split  the  lobster  through  the  center  and.  with  a fork,  pick  meat  from 
joints.  Out  under  side  of  tail  shell  open  and  take  out  meat  wdthoiit  breaking, 
bn  the  upper  part  of  that  end  of  this  meat  which  joined  the  body  is  a small 
piece  of  flesh,  which  should  be  lifted;  and  a strip  of  meat  attaclied  to  it 
should  be  turned  back  to  the  extreme  end  of  tail.  This  wuil  uncover  a little 
vein,  running  the  entire  length,  which  must  be  removed.  Sometimes  this 
vein  is  dark,  and  sometimes  as  light  as  the  meat  itself.  It  and  the  stomach 
and  head  are  the  only  parts  not  eatable.  The  piece  that  covered  the  vein 
should  1)6  turned  again  into  place.  Hold  chuvs  on  edge  on  a th.ick  board, 
and  strike  hard  with  a hammer  until  shell  cracks.  Draw'  apart,  and  take  out 
meat.  If  you  have  the  claws  lying  flat  on  the  board  w'hen  you  stride,  you 
not  only  break  the  shell,  but  mash  meat,  aiid  thus  spoil  a fine  dish.  Ee- 
member  that  the  stomach  of  the  lobster  is  found  near  the  head,  and  is  a 
small,  hard  sack  containing  poisonous  matter;  and  that  the  intestinal  vein 
is  found  in  the  tail . These  should  alw'ays  be  carefully  removed.  Tiie  lobster 
may  then  be  arranged  on  a plate  and  served,  each  one  seasoning  to  suit 
himself,  or  it  can  be  served  in  any  w^ay  given  in  shell-fish  or  a very  ap- 
petizing dish  is  that  of  Curried  Lobster  made  of  either \he  fresh  or  canned  ; 
chop  an  apple  and  onion  very  fine,  and  tW  in  butter  or  good  beef  dripping 
until  you  can  mash  them  with  a spoon.  Sprinkle  with  a teaspoon  curry- 
powder,  mashing  fine  with  a wmoden  spoon.  Have  ready  a half  pint  of  white 
sauce  made  by  bringing  to  aboil  as  much  milk  or  cream  to  which  a teaspoon 
of  corn  starch  dissolved  in  a little  cold  milk  has  been  added.  Stir  all 


CUTTING  AND  CUEING  MEATS. 


1053 


smoothly  together  until  the  consistency  of  cream,  and  add  the  lobster  cut  in 
pieces.  Let  it  get  very  hot,  and  serve  in  a border  of  plain  boiled  or  curried 
rice.  Or  a Lobster  Sauce  is  made  when  the  solid  flesh  is  used  for  salad,  by 
pounding  the  soft  part  and  shell  together  (in  a mortar)  very  fine,  and  putting 
in  stewpan,  covering  with  pint  boiling  water ; then  place  it  over  the  fire  to 
simmer  for  ten  minutes  and  pass  the  liquor  through  a hair  sieve  into  a basin; 
put  three  tablespoons  butter  into  stewpan,  into  which  rub  (cold)  a good  table- 
spoon flour,  add  liquor  from  lobster,  place  upon  the  fire,  stirring  until  the 
point  of  boiling ; season  with  a little  cayenne,  and  add  a piece  of  anchovy 
butter,  the  size  of  a walnut ; or,  if  any  red  spawn  is  in  the  lobster,  mfx  it  with 
the  butter,  as  in  the  last,  and  add  it,  with  the  juice  of  half  a lemon,  just  be- 
fore serving.  An  anchovy  pounded  with  the  lobster  shells  would  be  an  im- 
provement, and  part  of  the  flesh  of  the  lobster  might  be  served  in  the  sauce. 
To  make  the  Anchovy  Butter,  you  must  have  young  anchovies.  Take  them 
out  of  the  pickle  and  wash  well.  Take  oflf  the  bones  and  head,  and  then  pound 
them  in  a mortar  with  fresh  butter,  very  fine  ; rub  this  through  a hair  sieve. 
Put  this  butter  when  made,  into  a pot  well  covered,  to  use  when  wanted ; 
observe  however,  that  it  soon  becomes  rank. 

Terrapins  or  Water  Turtles. — Put  in  hot,  not  boiling,  water  for  from 
three  to  five  minutes,  take  out,  place  in  cold  water  five  or  ten  minutes  and 
remove  underskin  and  pull  off  the  horny  parts  from  the  feet;  return  to  kettle 
with  fresh  hot  water,  slightly  salted,  and  boil  about  an  hour  or  till  under 
shell  cracks,  time  will  depend  upon  size  and  age.  Loosen  shell  carefully, 
some  open  at  side,  remove  under  shells,  take  out  the  two  sand-bags,  en- 
trails, and  the  gall,  which  lies  above  the  largest  lobe  of  the  liver  (be  very 
careful  not  to  break  gall  bag,  or  touch  it  with  the  knife  in  cutting) ; cut  rest 
of  terrapin  in  pieces,  season  and  prepare  as  directed  in  shell-fish. 


1054 


CAKVIIsG. 


f 


CARVINGS. 


It  is  no  trifling  accomplishment  tv^  carve  well,  and  both  ladies  and  gen- 
tlemen ought  to  so  far  make  carving  a study  that  they  may  be  able  to  per- 
form the  task  with  sufficient  skill  at  least  to  ])revent  remark.  There  are  no 
real  difficulties  in  the  way  of  mastering  the  accomplishment ; knowledge 
simply  is  required.  All  displays  of  exertion  are  in  bad  taste,  because  they 
indicate  a want  of  ability  on  the  part  of  the  carver,  or  a strong  indication  of 
the  toughness  of  the  roast  or  the  age  of  the  bird.  A good  knife  of  moderate 
size  and  great  sharpness  is  a necessity.  Fowls  are  easily  carved,  and  in 
roasts  such  as  loins,  breasts,  fore-quarters,  etc.,  the  butcher  should  always 
have  instructions  to  separate  the  joints.  The  platter  should  be  placed  so  near 
to  the  carver  that  he  has  full  control  over  it ; if  far  off  nothing  can  prevent 
an  ungraceful  appearance.  In  carving  a turkey,  place  the  head  to  the  right, 
cut  off  the  wing  nearest  you  first,  then  the  leg  and  second  joint;  then  slice 
the  breast  until  a rounded,  ivory-shaped  piece  appears  ; insert  the  knife  be- 
tween that  and  the  bone  and  separate  them  ; this  part  is  the  nicest  bit  of  the 
breast;  next  comes  the  “merry-thought.”  After  this,  turn  over  the  bird  a 
little,  and  just  below  the  breast  you  will  find  the  “oyster”,  Avhich  you  can 
separate  as  you  did  the  inner  breast.  The  side  bone  lies  beside  the  rump, 
and  the  desired  morsel  can  be  taken  out  without  separating  the  whole  bone. 
Proceed  in  the  same  way  upon  the  other  side.  The  fork  need  not  be  re- 
moved during  the  whole  process.  An  experienced  carver  will  dissect  a fowl 
as  easily  as  you  can  break  an  egg  or  cut  a potato.  He  retains  his  seat,  man- 
ages his  hands  and  elbows  artistically,  and  is  perfectly  at  his  ease.  There 
is  no  difficulty  in  the  matter;  it  only  requires  knowledge  and  practice,  and 
these  should  be  taught  in  the  family,  each  child  taking  his  turn.  Chickens 
and  partridges  are  carved  in  the  same  way.  The  trail  of  a woodcock  on  toast 
is  the  choicest  bit  of  the  bird ; also  the  thigh  of  a partridge. 

A fillet  of  veal  is  cut  in  thin,  smooth  slices  off  the  top,  and  proportions 
of  the  stuffing  and  fat  are  served  to  each.  In  cutting  abreast  of  veal,  separ- 
ate the  breast  and  brisket,  and  then  cut  them  up. 


CARVING. 


1055 


Shoulder  of  Mutton. — Though  commonly 
regarded  as  a homely  joint,  is  by  many  pre- 
ferred to  the  leg,  as  there  is  much  variety 
of  flavor,  as  well  as  texture,  in  both  the 
upper  parts.  The  figure  represents  it  laid 
in -the  dish  as  usually  served,  back  upper- 
most. Cut  through  it  from  a down  to  the 
blade-bone  at  b.  Afterwards  slice  along 
each  side  of  the  blade-bone  from  c to  b. 

Shoulder  of  Mutton.  Tlio  bcst  part  of  tlic  fatlics  in  the  outer  edge, 

and  is  to  be  cut  in  thin  slices  in  the  direc  - 
tion  of  d.  The  under  part  contains  many 
favorite  slices,  of  different  sorts,  which  may 
be  cut  crosswise  in  slices,  near  the  shank 
bone  at  b or  lengthwise  in  broad  pieces  at 
the  large  end  a.  If  it  is  intended  to  reserve 
a part  cold,  the  under  parts  should  be  served 
hot,  as  they  are  more  palatable  than  when 
cold,  and  the  upper  partis  kept  more  sightly 
for  the  table. 

Saddle  of  Mutton  should  be  cut 
in  long  and  rather  thin  slices  from 
the  tail  to  the  end,  beginning  at 
each  side  close  to  the  back-bone 
from  a to  b,  with  slices  of  fat  from 
c to  d,  or  along  the  bone  which 
divides  the  two  loins,  so  as  to 
loosen  from  it  the  whole  of  the 
meat  from  that  side  which  you  then 
cut  crosswise,  thus  giving  with 
each  slice  both  fat  and  lean.  The 
tail-end  is  usually  divided  and  part- 
ly turned  up. 

Knuckle  of  Veal  is  to  be  carved  in  the 
direction  of  1 to  2.  The  most  delicate  fat 
lies  about  the  part  4 and  if  cut  in  the  line 
3 to  4 the  two  bones  between  which  the 
marrowy  fat  lies,  will  be  divided. 

Fore-quarter  of  Lamb. — Pass  the  knife 
under  the  shoulder  in  the  direction  of  a, 
b,  c,  d,  so  as  to  separate  it  from  the  ribs 
without  cutting  the  meat  too  much  off  the 
bones.  Divide  an  orange  or  lemon,  sprinkle 
the  halves  with  salt  or  pepper  and  squeeze 

the  juice  over  the  under  })art,  take 
to  table  and  the  carver  should  then 
divide  ribs  from  d toe,  serving  tlien\, 
or  the  neck  f,  or  the  breast  g,  as 
may  be  selected. 

Haunch  of  Venison. — Have  the 
joint  lengthwise  before  you,  the 
knuckle  being  the  farther  joint.  Cut 
from  a to  1j,  but  be  careful  not  to  let 


1056 


CARVING. 


out  the  gravy,  then  cut  along  the 
v/hole  length  from  a down  to_  d. 
The  knife  should  slope  in  making 
the  first  cut,  and  then  the  whole 
of  tlie  gravy  will  be  secured  in  the 
well.  The  greater  part  of  the  fat, 
which  is  the  favorite  part,  will  be 
found  at  the  left  side,  and  care 
must  be  taken  to  serve  some  with 
each  slice. 


Leg  of  Fork. — A leg  of  pork  Tvhethei 
boiled  or  roasted,  is  carved  the  same.  Begin 
about  midway,  between  the  knuckle  and 
the  thick  end,  and  cut  them  in  deep  slices 
from  either  side  of  the  line  1 to  2 

Ham. — Serve  it  with  the  back  upwards, 
sometimes  ornamented,  and  generally  hav- 
ing, as  in  France,  the  shank-bone  covered 
Leg  of  Pork.  ^^fth  cut  paper.  Begin  at  the  middle  by 

cutting  long  and  very  thin  slices  from  a to  6, 
continuing  dov/n  the  thick  fat  at  the  broad 
end.  The  first  slice  should  be  wedge-shaped, 
that  all  the  others  may  be  cut  slanting,  which 
gives  a handsome  appearance  to  them.  Many 
persons,  however,  prefer  the  hock  at  d as 
having  more  flavor ; it  is  then  carved  length- 
wise fi’om  c to  d. 

Fillet  of  Veal. — Pare  off  the  upper  part 


one  slice  from  the  whole  surface  half  an 
inch  thick,  and  put  it  aside,  then  cut  thin 
slice  of  both  lean  and  fat.  The  round  and 
aitch-bone  is  carved  in  the  same  way.  In 
carving  the  first  slice,  if  any  one  prefers 
the  brown,  it  may  be  cut  thinner  and  divid- 
ed, and  a portion  served  to  each  person 
who  likes  it. 

Round  or  Aitch-bone  of  Beef. — These  are 
carved  like  a fillet  of  veal.  The  soft  fat 


wnich  resembles  marrow,  lies  back  of  the 
aitch-bone,  below  c,  but  the  firm  fat  should 
be  cut  in  slender  horizontal  slices  at  a, 
and  is  much  better  than  the  soft  when  eat- 
en cold. 

Rabbits. — Put  the  point  of  the  knife 
under  the  shoulder  at  5,  and  so  cut  all  the 
way  down  to  the  rump,  along  the  sides  of 
the  backbone,  in  the  limb,  b,  a,  cutting  it 
in  moderately  thick  slices  ;or,  after  remov- 
ing the  shoulders  and  legs,  cut  the  back  crosswise  in  four  or  five  pieces  5 
but  this  can  only  be  done  when  the  rabbit  is  very  young,  or  when  it  is  boned. 
To  separate  the  legs  and  shoulders,  put  the  knife  between  the  leg  and  back 
and  give  it  a little  turn  inwards  at  the  point,  which  you  must  endeavor 
to  hit  and  not  to  break  by  force.  The  shoulders  may  be  removed  by  a 


Round  or  Aitch-bone  of  beef. 


CARVING. 


1057 


circular  cut  around  them.  The  back  is  the 
jnost  delicate  part,  and  next  to  that  the 
thighs.  A portion  of  the  stuffing  should  be 
served  with  each  slice.  The  brain  and  ears 
of  the  sucking  pig  and  rabbit  are  slso  con- 
sidered epicurian  tid-bits,  which  must  not 
be  neglected ; therefore,  when  every  one 
is  helped,  cut  off  the  head,  put  your  knife 
between  the  upper  and  lower  jaw  and  di- 
vide them,  which  will  enable  you  to  lay  the 
upper  flat  on  your  plate  ; then  put  the  point  of  the  knife  into  the  center  and 
cut  the  head  in  two. 

Winged  Game  and  Poultry. — The  carving  of  winged  game  and  poultry  re- 
quires more  delicacy  of  hand  and  nicety  in  hitting  the  joints  than  the  cutting 
of  large  pieces  of  meat,  and,  to  be  neatly  done,  requires  considerable  prac- 
tice. The  carving  knife  should  be  smaller  and  lighter  and  the  point  and 
handle  longer  than  for  meats. 

Roast  Turkey. — Cut  long  slices  from  each  side  of  the  breast  down  to  tho 
ribs,  beginning  at  a 6 from  the  wing  to  the  breast  bone.  Then  turn  the  tui 
key  upon  the  side  nearest  you,  and  cut  off 
the  leg  and  wing ; when  the  knife  is  passed 
between  the  limbs  and  the  body,  and  pressed 
outward,  the  joint  will  be  easily  perceived. 

Then  turn  the  turkey  on  the  other  side,  and 
cut  off  the  leg  and  wffiig.  Separate  the  drum- 
sticks from  the  leg  bones,  and  the  pinions 
from  the  wings  ; it  is  hardly  possible  to  mis- 
take the  joint.  Cut  the  stuffing  in  thin  slices 
lengthwise.  Take  off  the  neck-bones,  which  are  two  triangular  bones  oi  t 
each  side  of  the  breast ; tJiis  is  done  by  passing  the  knife  from  the  back  un 
der  the  blade  part  of  each  neck-bone,  until  it  reaches  the  end ; by  raising  tint 
knife  the  other  branch  will  easily  crack  off.  Separate  the  carcass  from  th(5 

back  by  Trussing  the  knife  lengthwise  from  th«'; 
neck  downward.  Turn  the  back  upwards  and 
lay  the  edge  of  the  knife  across  the  back-bone 
about  midway  between  the  legs  and  wings  ; at 
the  same  moment,  ])lace  the  fork  within  the 
lower  part  of  the  turkey,  and  lift  it  up  ; this 
will  make  the  back-bone  crack  at  the  knife. 
The  croup,  or  lower  part  of  the  back  being  cut 
off',  pnt  it  on  the  plate  with  the  rump  from  you. 
and  split  off  the  side-])ones  by  forcing  the 
knife  from  the  rump  to  tlie  otluw  end.  The  choicest  parts  of  turkey  are  the 
side  bones,  tlie  breast  and  tlie  thigh  bones.  The  breast  and  wings  are  called 
lightmeat ; the  thigh-bones  and  side-bones  dark  meat.  When  a person  de- 
clines expressing  a preference,  it  is  polite  to  help  to  both  kinds. 

Boiled  Turkey  is  carved  in  the  same  way  as  the  roast,  the  only  difference 
being  in  the  trussing ; the  legs  in  boiled  bemg,  as  here  shown,  drawn  into  the 
body,  and  in  the  roast  skewered. 

Roast  Fowl. — Slip  the  knife  between  the  leg  and  body,  and  cut  to  the 
bone  ; then  with  the  fork  turn  the  leg  back,  and  the  joint  will  give  way  if  the 
bii’dis  not  old.  Take  the  wing  off  in  the  direction  of  a to  h,  only  dividing 
th-i  joint  your  knife.  When  the  four  Quarters  are  thus  removed,  take 
67 


1058 


CARVING. 


off  the  merry-thought  from  c,  and  the  neck 
hones,  these  last,  by  putting  in  the  knife  at 
d,  and  pressing  it,  will  break  off  from  the 
part  that  sticks  to  the  breast.  The  next 
thing  is  to  divide  the  breast  from  the  car- 
cass, by  cutting  through  the  tender  ribs 
close  to  the  breast,  quite  down  to  the  tail. 

Then  raise  the  lower  end  of  rump  and  it 
will  separate  easily.  Turn  the  rump  from 
you,  take  off  the  two  sidesmen,  and  the  whole  will  be  done.  To  separate 
the  thigh  from  the  drumstick  of  the  leg  insert  the  knife  into  the  joint  as  above. 
It  requires  practice  to  hit  the  joint  at  the  first  trial.  The  breast  and  wings 
are  considered  the  best  parts.  If  the  bird  be  a capon,  or  large,  and  roasted, 
the  breast  may  be  cut  into  slices  the  same  way  as  the  pheasant.  The  differ- 
ence in  the  carving  of  boiled  and  mast  fowls 
consists  only  in  the  breast  of  the  latter  be- 
ing always  served  whole,  and  the  thigh- 
bones being  generally  prefered  to  the  wing. 

Geese. — Cut  thin  slices  from  the  breast 
at  a to  h ; the  wing  is  generally  separated 
as  in  turkeys,  but  the  leg  is  almost  con- 
stantly reserved  for  broiling.  Serve  a lit- 
tle of  the  seasoning  from  the  inside  by  cutting  a circular  slice  in  the  apron  at  c. 


Pheasant, — Slip  ihe  knife  between  the  leg  and  the  breast;  cut  off  a wing 
then  slice  the  breast,  and  you  will  have  two  or  three  handsome  cuts.  Cut 
off  the  merry  thought  by  passing  the  knife  under  it  towards  the  neck,  and 
cut  all  the  other  parts  as  in  a fowl.  The  breast,  wings,  and 
merry-thought  are  the  most  esteemed ; but  the  thigh  has  a . 
hiah  flavor. 


Partridge. — It  may  be  cut  up  in  the  same  manner  as  a 
fowl ; but  the  bird  being  small,  it  is  unusual  to  divide  it  into 
more  than  three  portions — the  leg  and  wing  being  left  to- 
gether. and  the  breast  helped  entire ; the  back,  being  only 
served  along  with  some  other  parts.  If  the  birds  are  very  partudge. 
young,  and  the  party  not  over  large,  the  whole  body  is  not  unfrequently  only 
separated  into  two  iDieces,  by  one  cut  of  the  knife  from  head  to  tail. 

Quails. — Generally  helped  whole. 


Grouse,  Snipe  and  Woodcock. — Proceed  as  for  partridge.  As  regards  these 
different  sorts  of  game,  the  thigh  of  the  pheasant  and  w'oodcock  is  the  best, 
and  the  breast  and  wing  of  the  partridge  and  grouse ; but  the  most  epicurean 
morsel  of  all  is  the  trail  of  the  woodcock  served  up  on  toast.  Smaller  birds 
should  always  be  helped  as  they  are  roasted,  whole. 

In  serving  fish  some  practice  is  needful,  for  lightness  of  touch  and  dex- 
terity of  management  are  necessary  to  prevent  the  flakes  from  breaking.  In 
serving  mackerel,  shad,  etc.,  a part  of  the  roe  should  be  placed  on  each  plate. 
The  fins  of  the  turbot  are  most  sought  for ; the  fish  is  placed  underpart  up- 
permost on  the  platter,  as  there  lies  the  primest  part.  In  carving  salmon,  a 
portion  of  the  back  and  belly  should  be  served  to  each  person.  The  choicest 
morsels  are  next  to  the  head,  the  thin  part  comes  next,  and  the  tail  is  the 
least  esteemed.  The  flavor  of  the  fish  nearest  the  bone  is  not  equal  to  that  on 
the  upper  part. 


BUTTER  AND  CHEESE. 


1059 


BUTTER  AND  CHEESE. 


No  sloven  can  make  good  butter.  The  one  thing  to  be  kept  in  mind,  morn 
ing,  noon  and  night,  is  neatness,  neatness,  neatness.  The  milking  shouh  * 
be  done  in  the  cleanest  place  that  can  be  found,  and  the  cows  should  be  kep  i 
as  clean  as  possible.  Wash  the  teats  and  udders  thoroughly  with  plenty  of 
cold  water,  and  wipe  with  a cloth  or  towel.  Never  wash  with  the  iianO 
moistened  with  milk  from  the  cow.  The  least  impurity  taints  the  cream,  an(  ( 
takes  from  the  sweetness  of  the  butter.  Milk  perfectly  clean  (as  the  las  'r, 
pint  is  twice  as  rich  in  butter  as  the  first) , and  the  quicker  the  milking  ir, 
done  the  more  milk  is  obtained.  The  milk-room  should  be  clean  and  swee  ; 
its  air  pure,  and  temperature  about  62  degrees . As  soon  as  a pail  is  filled  . 
take  to  the  milk-room  and  strain  the  milk  through  a fine  wire-cloth  strainer, 
kept  for  the  purpose,  and  not  attached  to  the  pail  (the  simple  strainer  being' 
more  easily  kept  clean.)  Never  allow  milk  to  stand  in  the  stable  and  cool,  as  it 
absorbs  the  foul  odors  of  the  place.  The  pans  (flat  stone  crocks  with  flaring 
sides  are  better  than  tin  pans.  In  winter  hot  water  should  be  poured  into 
them  while  milking  is  being  done,  and  poured  out  just  before  straining  the 
milk  into  them)  should  be  set  on  slats,  rather  than  shelves,  as  it  is  important 
to  have  the  milk  cooled  from  the  animal  heat  as  soon  as  possible.  Skim  each 
day,  or  at  longest  within  twenty-four  hours.  Souring  does  not  injure  the 
quality  of  the  cream,  but  the  milk  should  not  be  allowed  to  become  watery. 
In  winter  always  put  a little  sour  milk  in  bottom  of  cream  crock  at  first  skiin- 
ming.  Do  not  use  a perforated  skimmer,  but  remove  a little  of  the  milk  with 
the  cream,  as  this  does  not  injure  the  quality  or  lessen  the  quantity  of  butter, 
and  gives  more  well-flavored  buttermilk,  which  is  a favorite  and  wholesome 
drink.  It  there  is  cream  enough  each  day,  it  should,  of  course,  be  churned, 
and  this  plan  makes  the  best  butter,  although  it  takes  longer  to  churn  it.  If 
not,  the  cream  should  be  set  aside  in  a cool  place,  covered,  and  stirred  thor- 
oughly whenever  more  is  added.  It  ought  not  to  stand  more  than  two  days, 
and  must  not  be  allowed  to  become  bitter  or  flaky.  The  best  plan  is  to  churn 
as  soon  as  it  becomes  slightly  acid.  Scald  the  churn  and  dash  thoroughly, 
and  put  in  the  ^ream  at  a temperature  of  58  degrees.  The  motion  of  the 
churn  will  soon  bring  it  up  to  60  degrees.  "When  the  butter  comes  put  a quart 
or  two  of  cold,  soft  water  (or  ice  is  better)  into  the  churn  to  harden  the  buh 
ter,  and  make  it  easier  to  gather  up.  After  gathering  it  as  well  as  possible 


1060 


BUTTER  AND  CHEESE. 


with  the  dash,  it  should  be  removed  to  the  table  or  bowl,  and  thoroughly 
worked  with  a flat  wooden  paddle,  (never  with  the  hand,  as  the  insensible 
perspiration  will  more  or  less  taint  the  butter),  using  an  abundance  of  cold 
ioft  water  to  wash  out  the  buttermilk  and  harden  the  butter.  By  this  pro- 
cess the  buttermilk  is  removed  quickly,  and  there  is  no  need  of  excessive 
working,  which  injures  the  grain  of  the  butter.  This  is  especially  true  of 
that  which  is  packed,  as  it  keeps  longer  when  well  washed.  If  to  be  used 
immediately,  the  washing  may  be  less  thorough.  Another  and  better  plan 
is  to  remove  the  butter  to  a marble  slab  and  lay  on  top  of  it  a piece  of  ice.  As 
it  settles  down  by  its  own  weight,  work  it  up  around  the  edges  with  a paddle, 
and  the  water  from  the  melting  ice  will  wash  out  and  carry  off  the  butter- 
milk. Before  or  during  the  churning,  the  bowl  (which  should  never  be  used 
for  anything  else)  in  which  the  butter  is  to  be  salted,  should  be  filled  with 
scalding  water,  which  should  remain  for  ten  minutes  ; pour  out  and  rub  both 
bowl  and  paddle  with  hard  coarse  salt,  wliieh  prevents  butter  from  sticking. 
Kinse  thoroughly  and  fill  with  cold  or  ice-water  to  cool.  After  washing  but- 
ter free  from  milk,  remove  to  this  bowl,  having  first  poured  out  the  cold 
water,  and  (the  butter  bowl  and  paddle  should  occasionally  be  scoured  with 
sand  or  ashes,  washed  thoroughly  with  soap-suds,  and  rinsed  until  all  smell 
of  soap  has  disappeared)  work  in  gradually  salt  which  has  been  pulverized 
by  rolling,  and  freed  from  foreign  substances.  If  wanted  for  use,  one-half 
ounce  of  salt  to  the  pound  of  butter  is  sufficient,  but  if  wanted  for  packing, 
use  three-fourths  of  an  ounce  or  even  an  ounce  of  salt.  Use  only  the  best 
quality  of  dairy  salt.  After  salting  cover  with  cotton  cloth  soaked  in  brine, 
and  set  away  in  a temperature  of  about  60  degrees  for  twelve  hours,  Work 
the  second  time  just  enough  to  get  the  remaining  buttermilk  out.  This,  how- 
ever, must  be  done  thoroughly,  as  otherwise  the  acid  of  the  buttermilk  will 
make  the  butter  rancid.  At  tlie  end  of  the  second  working  it  is  ready  for 
use,  and  should  be  kept  in  a clean,  sweet  place,  as  it  soon  absorbs  bad  odors 
and  becomes  tainted.  The  air  of  a cellar  in  which  are  decaying  vegetables 
soon  ruins  the  sweetest  butter.  In  packing  for  market  (tin  lined  tubs  are 
the  neatest  and  best  packages)  soak  the  package  for  twelve  hours  in  brine 
strong  enough  to  float  an  egg,  pack  the  butter  in  evenly  and  firmly,  having 
first  put  in  a thin  layer  of  salt.  If  the  tub  is  not  filled  by  the  first  packing, 
set  away  until  the  next  churning,  in  a cool  place,  with  a cotton  cloth  wet  in 
brine  spread  over  the  butter,  and  place  cover  carefully  on  the  tub.  When 
filled  lay  over  the  butter  a cotton  cloth  (from  which  the  sizing  has  been 
washed)  soaked  in  strong  brine,  nail  ud  the  tub,  and  set  away  in  a clean,  cool 
place  until  ready  to  sell. 

Straining  Milk. — Do  not  strain  warm  milk  into  cold ; it  causes  whe5% 

Care  of  the  Cream. — Stirring  the  cream  in  cream  crock  increases  the  quan- 
tity of  butter. 

White  Specks  in  Butter. — The  cream  being  too  sour  is  generally  the  cause 
of  this,  as  when  the  cream  is  warmed  by  churning  it  forms  what  is  known  as 
clabber  cheese  and  that  makes  the  white  specks. 

Butter  Rollers. — Two  wooden  paddles  made  in  form  of  engraving  are  dip- 
ped into  cold  water,  and  a little  pat  of  butter  placed  between  them  and  rolled 
around  until  a little  ball  is  formed,  with  a pretty  net- 
work surface.  This  may  be  piled  on  the  butter  dish,  or 
served  on  individual  butter  dishes  at  the  plates. 

Testing  Butter. — The  following  simple  test  for  the 
detection  of  spurious  and  genuine  butter  emanates  from 
good  authority : Place  a little  butter  on  a cotton  wick 
and  set  light  to  it  for  one  or  two  minutes  ; then  blow  out  the  flame.  The  odor 


BUTTER  ANB  CHEESE. 


1061 


ef  tte  vapor  is  a good  indication  of  its  purity  or  adulteration.  If  it  be  mixed 
witb  lard,  the  odor  is  more  intense  than  if  mixed  with  tallow.  The  artiticial 
butter  has  less  w^ater  than  the  natural  butter. 

Creameries. — All  housewives  who  make  butter  should  examine  immedi- 
ately the  new  inventions  which  substitute  deep  setting  for  the  old-fashioned 
plan  of  setting  in  shallow  pans.  The  new  system  is  not  only  cleaner,  but  it 
produces  as  much  and  a better  quality  of  butter,  and  does  away  with  one-half 
of  the  hard  work  of  butter  making.  Besides,  the  creameries,  of  which  there 
are  several  good  ones,  take  up  but  very  little  space,  relieve  the  pantry  shelves 
of  the  great  number  of  pans  required  by  the  old  way,  and  make  a milk  house 
unnecessary.  They  are  not  costly,  and  are  great  woman  savers. 

Bright  Butter. — In  skimming  cream  off  milK  there  should  always  be  milk 
enough  skimmed  off  with  the  cream  to  give  the  butter,  when  churned,  a 
bright,  clean  look.  Butter  churned  from  clear  cream  with  little  or  no  milk 
in  it  will  usually  have  an  oily  or  shiny  look.  This  shows  that  the  grain  of 
the  butter  is  injured,  which  affects  the  keeping  qualities  of  the  butter. 

Keeping  Butter. — When  in  the  granular  state,  if  butter  be  washed  free 
from  extraneous  matter  its  keeping  qualities  are  far  superior  to  that  in  which 
these  elements  are  allowed  to  remain,  even  though  in  small  quantities.  When 
the  butter  is  washed  by  a not  very  strong  brine  it  is  then  possible  for  salt  to 
preserve  it,  but  if  the  matter  remains  salting  will  not  benefit  it,  though  con- 
cealing other  flavors.  When  butter  is  washed  with  the  brine  it  is  possible 
to  churn,  salt  and  pack  at  one  operation,  thereby  saving  labor. 

What  To  Do  With  Rancid  Butter. — When  butter  has  become  very  rancid, 
it  should  be  melted  several  times  by  a moderate  heat,  with  or  without  the 
addition  of  water,  and  after  cooling  extract  any  water  it  may  have  retained, 
then  put  it  into  jars  and  cover  closely.  The  French  often  add  to  it,  after  it 
has  been  melted,  a piece  of  toasted  bread,  which  helps  to  destroy  the  ten- 
dency of  the  butter  to  rancidity. 

Butter  in  Winter. — Heat  the  milk  as  soon  as  strained  until  a light  texture 
is  formed  on  the  surface,  then  set  as  usual.  The  safest  way  to  do  this  is 
either  in  oven  or  in  another  vessel  of  boiling  water.  It  is  not  necessary  to  let 
the  milk  stand  more  than  forty-eight  hours  in  following  this  method  and  the 
milk  is  good  for  many  culinary  purposes.  If  milk  freezes  before  all  cream 
has  risen,  skim  as  soon  as  frozen,  putting  frozen  cream  and  milk  in  cream 
crock  and  then  reheating  the  milk  that  is  left,  when  more  creana  will  rise. 
AVhen  about  to  churn,  place  your  jar  of  cream  near  the  fire  and ’stir  often, 
turning  the  jar  around  occasionally.  Churn  slowly  until  the  butter  is  nearly 
ready  to  gather. 

Granular  Butter  .-^Yriter8  on  butter  making  now  insist  that  the  best  churns 
are  made  without  a dash,  butter  should  be  churned  only  until  granules  are 
the  size  of  a grain  of  wheat,  then  draw  off  buttermilk  and  rinse  until  water 
runs  off  clear,  then  take  half  pint  coarse  salt,  dissolve  in  two  gallons  water, 
pour  on  butter  and  let  stand  twenty  or  thirty  minutes,  draw  off  and  let  drain 
well  then  take  out,  weigh,  spread  out  as  much  as  possible  and  sprinkle  even- 
ly over  it  one  ounce  of  salt  to  a pound  of  butter.  Mix  well  but  do  not  work, 
gently  press  grains  together  and  set  aside  twenty-four  hours.  Then  work  out 
all  the  water,  but  if  a paddle  is  used  be  careful  not  to  let  it  slide  over  the 
butter.  After  the  water  is  all  out  every  stroke  injures  the  grain.  Scour  the 
churn  once  a week  with  coarse  salt. 

Keeping  Butter  in  Warm  Weather. — Work  the  butter  thoroughly  to  extract 
the  buttermilk  and  pack  in  stone  crocks  to  within  two  or  three  inches  of 
the  top  ; cover  with  a cloth  and  fill  up  with  salt ; put  two  or  three  thicknesses 


1062 


BUTTER  AND  CHEESE. 


of  paper  on  top  and  a board  over  all ; dig  a hole  in  the  ground,  three  feet 
deep,  in  a shady  place,  in  which  place  the  crocks  and  fill  up  with  earth. 

Brine  for  Butter, — In  packing  for  family  use,  work  into  rolls,  lay  in  large 
stone  crocks,  cover  with  brine  strong  enough  to  fioat  an  egg  (one  pint  of  salt 
to  a gallon  of  water) , in  which  a level  teaspoon  of  saltpeter  and  a pound  of 
white  sugar  to  each  two  gallons  have  been  added ; over  it  place  a cotton 
cloth  and  a weight  to  keep  the  butter  under  the  brine,  and  the  paper  over 
the  top  of  crock.  Or,  pack  in  a stone  jar,  pressing  it  solid  with  a wooden 
pestle,  cover  with  a cloth  wet  in  brine,  and  sprinkle  over  it  salt  an  inch 
thick.  More  sugar  may  be  added  to  the  brine  without  injury  ; if  butter  is  to 
be  kept  a long  time  it  is  a good  rule  to  always  make  brine  so  strong  that  salt 
will  lie  at  the  bottom  of  the  jar.  Some  boil  and  skim  the  brine  and  when 
cold,  pour  it  over  the  butter.  When  ready  to  pack  the  next  churning,  re- 
move the  cloth  with  the  salt  carefully,  rinsing  off  with  water  any  that  may 
have  been  scattered  in  uncovering  it,  pack  butter  as  before,  replace  cloth 
with  salt  over  it,  and  repeat  until  jar  is  filled  to  within  two  inches  of  the  top, 
cover  all  with  cloth,  add  salt  to  the  top  of  crock,  tie  paper  over  the  top,  and 
set  in  a cool  place.  In  removing  for  use  each  churning  comes  out  by  itself, 
or  pack  in  layers  as  thick  as  you  wish  for  the  table,  put  a cloth  and  salt  be- 
tween each  layer  and  on  top.  It  keeps  very  nice  and  one  can  cut  nice  piece*! 
ior  the  table. 

Butter  Worlcd  Once. — The  experience  of  one  who  does  this  is  as  follows  ; 
^‘I  use  a barrel  churn,  although  a box  churn  without  a paddle  in  it  does  as 
well.  I let  the  milk  stand  twenty-four  hours,  provided  it  does  not  sour;  h; 
it  does,  skim  as  soon  as  it  begins  to  turn.  If  you  have  sour  and  sweet  cream, 
mix  and  let  it  stand  an  hour  or  more  before  churning ; as  sour  comes  more 
quickly,  consequently  the  sweet  would  be  left  in  the  buttermilk.  I use  a 
thermometer  and  test  the  cream,  never  churning  it  warmer  than  sixty-four 
degrees,  and  not  colder  tlian  sixty- two ; and  I granulate  the  butter,  never  al- 
lowing it  to  gather.  Sometimes  the  granula  are  as  large  as  kernels  of  w^heat, 
but  generally  smaller.  - Draw  off  the  buttermilk,  then  put  in  cold  water; 
draw  off*  some  more  and  add  more  water ; let  it  stand  a few  minutes  and 
draw  off  again  ; then  put  in  more  cold  water,  and  cover  the  churn  up  and  let 
it  stand  ten  minutes ; then  draw  off  all  the  water  and  put  the  salt  in  the 
churn ; put  the  cover  on  and  churn  it  just  a little  ; let  it  stand  one  hour,  turn- 
ing the  churn  over  once  in  a while,  say  four  or  five  times  in  the  course  of 
an  hour ; tjien  take  it  out  on  the  butter  worker,  and  work  it  only  enough  to 
get  the  brine  out,  and  ])ack  it  down.  If  this  plan  is  followed  out  your  but- 
ter will  never  be  streaked,  and  it  will  keep  all  summer  or  longer. 

Home-made  Cheese. — To  make  it  thus  have  a carpenter  make  a strong 
little  screw-press,  using  a work  bench  screw  which  makes  it  very  inexpen- 
sive and  answers  the  purpose  well,  pressing  the  whey  out,  and  leaving  the 
cheese  smooth  and  firm  as  the  factory  made*  The  other  implements  are  a 
peck  measure  with  the  bottom  knocked  out,  and  gimlet  holes  bored  in  the 
sides,  with  a strong  cover  to  fit  closely  inside,  a few  yards  of  thin  muslin 
(flour  sacks  are  good),  and  a large  bowl  and  chopping  knife.  Buy  the  ren- 
net of  the  butcher,  and  strain  the  night’s  milk  into  a tin  wash  boiler,  then 
iitrain  the  morning’s  milk  in  with  it,  which  will  make  the  boiler  about  three- 
fourths  full.  Soak  a piece  of  rennet  nearly  half  the  size  of  a hand  in  a pint 
of  warm  water  overnight ; after  warming  the  milk  as  warm  as  when  milked 
from  the  cows,  strain  the  rennet  water  in,  stir  well,  and  let  sit  half  an  hour, 
or  till  it  is  firm  curd ; then  cut  in  squares  with  a long  knife  or  slat  that  wull 
reach  the  bottom ; stir  with  the  hand  around  two  or  three  times  slowdy,  be- 
ing careful  to  reach  the  bottom,  and  let  it  sot  five  minutes;  then  cut  finer 


BUTTER  AND  CHEESE. 


1063 


and  stir  harder;  don’t  hurry  the  whey  out  at  first  or  cheese  will  he  tough. 
Lay  a thin  cloth  over  the  boiler  and  press  down  on  the  curd  and  dip  all  the 
whey  off  that  can  be  got ; then  stir,  and  dip  again  ; when  the  whey  is  nearly 
all  out  pour  it  in  a thin  cloth  and  hang  to  drip  dry  ; then  put  in  a bowl  and 
chop  fine,  adding  a little  salt,  then  put  a thin  cloth  over  the  hoop,  put  the 
curd  in,  lay  one  end  of  the  cloth  over,  and  put  in  the  press ; screw  down 
lightly  at  first,  and  finally  very  hard  ; leave  in  one  day,  then  turn,  and  press 
two  more  days  ; take  out,  grease,  and  rub  with  cayenne  pepper.  Keep  cheese 
in  a dark  room  up  stairs,  grease,  and  turn  every  day.  Or  have  a long  bench 
upon  which  place  two  new  tubs,  (without  being  painted  inside,)  in  which 
‘‘set’’  the  milk.  When  the  cheese  has  come,  or  when  thick  enough  not  to 
stick  to  a knife  blade,  cut  with  a long  cheese  knife,  consisting  of  five  blades, 
into  small  checks.  Then,  after  standing  until  the  whey  will  separate  from 
the  curd,  place  a thin  cloth  of  “cheese  cloth”  one  and  a fourth  yards  square 
upon  it;  then  carefully  with  a short-handled  two  quart  cup,  care  being  taken 
not  to  bring  white  whey,  lift  the  curd  up  gently  with  the  hand.  Let  stand 
awhile  and  then  dip  again,  so  continuing  till  the  curd  hardens  somewhat. 
Have  a kettle  of  hot  whey  and  pour  it  over,  stirring  it  the  while  ; let  it  stand 
for  a time,  lift  up  the  curd  with  the  hand,  and  when  another  kettleful  is  hot, 
scald  again.  Be  sure  and  not  let  the  whey  burn.  Generally  two  and  three 
kettles  of  whey  are  sufficient.  The  object  of  letting  it  stand  between  scald- 
ing is  to  cure  it.  When  scalded  it  should  be  of  a yellow  color  and  hard 
enough  to  break  in  small  kernels.  Be  careful  to  keep  the  curd  fine  after 
scalding  is  commenced.  Let  stand  half  an  hour.  Then  place  a “cradle” 
over  tub  made  in  the  following  way  ; have  four  pieces  of  pine  six  or  seven 
inches  wide.  Two  length  pieces  four  inches  longer  than  the  tub,  and  the 
end  pieces  enough  narrower  than  tub  to  keep  all  the  whey  inside  ; the  side 
pieces’straight  on  one  edge  and  rounding  on  the  other  to  set  in  to  the  tub  a 
little.  The  end  pieces  straight  on  both  sides,  make  into  a frame  and  on  the 
rounding  side  nail  slats  across  an  inch  apart.  Place  strainer  in  it  and  dip  in 
the  curd.  This  is  to  let  the  whey  run  off.  After  stirring  and  crumbling,  if 
still  warm,  dip  cold  whey  over.  When  cold,  dry,  and  fine,  add  salt.  It  is 
then  ready  for  the  hoop.  Place  the  hoop  on  a square  board  a little  larger 
than  the  hoop,  over  this  a thick  cloth  and  put  in  the  curd,  place  the  cover  in, 
and  it  is  then  ready  for  the  press,  made  with  a narrow  plank  for  lever,  a 
board  for  fulcrum,  and  a large  stone  for  weight.  In  the  middle  of  the  day 
turn  the  cheese,  using  a clean  cloth  for  the  afternoon. 


1064 


THE  CHEMISTRY  OP  FOOD. 


THE  CHEMISTRY  OF  FOOT). 


A man  may  eat  his  fill  and  yet  be  hungry.  It  is  not  the  quantity  but  th(  i 
proper  quality  in  food  that  satisfies.  It  is  not  only  true  that  what  is  ont  i 
man’s  food  is  another’s  poison ; but  it  is  also  true  that  what  is  food  at  ono 
season  of  the  year,  at  one  period  of  life,  or  in  one  climate,  may  be  poison  tc^ 
the  same  individual  at  another  season  or  age,  or  in  another  climate.  The 
inhabitants  of  the  tropic  subsists  and  thrives  on  fruits  on  which  the  Ice- 
lander would  starve ; while  the  blubber  and  oil  that  makes  up  the  diet  of 
the  inhabitants  of  the  frozen  zones  .would  be  fatal  to  those  who  live  under 
the  burning  sun  of  tlie  equator.  Even  the  same  person  requires  a fruit  diet 
in  the  tropics,  and  one  of  fats  in  the  north  region.  The  child  requires  food 
made  up  rrf  difierent  elements  from  that  which  best  suits  the  adult ; and  the 
diet  of  a laborer  in  the  open  air  must  differ  from  that  of  the  brain-worker, 
who  takes  little  exercise,  and  whose  work  makes  heavy  draughts  on  the 
nervous  system. 

No  one  has  mastered  the  art  of  cooking  who  does  not  know  something 
of  the  chemical  elements  of  foods,  and  the  purpose  they  serve  when  taken 
into  the  system.  It  is  particularly  important  that  those  who  are  compelled 
to  practice  rigid  economy  should  know  just  what  foods  will  best  supply  the 
real  needs  of  the  family,  and  how  the  most  real  nourishment  may  be  had  for 
their  money. 

An  adult  takes  into  the  system  daily,  through  lungs  and  mouth,  eight 
and  a quarter  pounds  of  dry  food,  water,  and  air  necessary  for  respiration. 
The  same  amount  is  given  off  as  waste  through  the  pores,  lungs,  kidneys,  and 
intestines.  Life  and  activity  consume  this  amount  as  fuel  just  as  a larnp^^ 
consumes  oil.  Every  moment,  every  breath,  every  heart-beat,  every  thought 
burns  up  a certain  amount  of  fuel-material,  and  if  the  supply  is  not  forth- 
coming, the  machinery  stops  and  death  ensues.  The  better  the  oil  the  mor© 
perfect  the  light ; and  the  more  perfectly  the  food  is  adapted  to  its  wants,  the 
more  vigorous  the  body,  and  the  more  perfect  the  working  of  its  intrieate 
machinery  of  muscle,  nerve,  and  brain. 


THE  CHEMISTRY  OF  FOOD. 


1065 


Food  is  first  masticated  and  then  digested.  In  mastication  it  is  not  only 
moistened  with  saliva,  but  acted  upon  chemically  in  preparation  for  the 
more  vigorous  and  thorough  work  of  the  stomach.  It  is  a mistake  to  sup- 
pose that  -^  ater  or  any  of  the  various  drinks  taken  at  table  are  a substitute 
for  saliva.  They  not  only  do  not  prepare  food  for  the  stomach,  but  force  it 
into  the  stomach  unprepared,  and,  besides,  retard  digestion  by  delaying  the 
process  until  the  water  can  be  absorbed  into  the  blood.  For  these  reasons 
drinks  should  precede  or  follow  a meal.  Crusts  of  bread  and  hard  and  firm 
food  is  wholesome,  principally  because  it  must  be  thoroughly  masticated  be- 
fore it  can  be  swallowed. 

When  the  food  reaches  the  stomach  it  rouses  into  action,  the  gastric  juice 
pours  from  hundreds  of  little  points,  the  food  is  diluted  and  the  more  solv- 
ent parts  dissolved,  to  be  taken  up  by  the  thousands  of  little  mouths  which 
honeycomb  the  surface,  and  carried  into  the  circulation  to  repair  the  waste 
of  tissues.  The  oily  portions  of  food,  and  such  as  do  not  yield  to  the  action 
of  the  gastric  juice,  pass  on  and  are  subjected  to  the  influence  of  the  bile 
and  pancreatic  fluid,  until  all  that  is  of  value  is  absorbed,  while  the  waste  is 
rejected  and  passes  oflT. 

This  much  of  the  digestive  process  needs  to  be  known  to  make  clear  the 
why  of  certain  processes  in  cookery.  As  the  juices  of  the  stomach  only  act 
la  the  surface  of  the  food  which  passes  into  it,  it  is  easy  to  see  why  light 
bread  is  more  wholesome  than  heavy.  The  gastric  and  other  juices  can  act 
only  on  the  outside  surface  of  a heavy  lump  of  dough ; but  when  made  into 
light  and  poms  bread,  the  outer  surface  is  not  only  vastly  increased  but 
the  juices  pour  through  thousands  of  avenues,  and  penetrate  and  act  on  every 
part.  If  the  frugal  housewife  knew  this,  would  she  set  the  heavy,  soggy 
loaf  of  bread  before  her  children  “to  save  it?”  Many  a mother  ignorantly 
gives  her  children  a stone  when  it  asks  for  bread. 

Fats  of  all  kinds  do  not  digest  in  the  stomach.  The  gastric  juice  mingles 
with  but  does  not  dissolve  them.  It  is  only  after  they  have  passed  on  and 
become  subjected  to  the  action  of  the  bile  and  pancreatic  fluid  that  they  are 
taken  up  and  made  available  as  carbon  for  lung  combustion.  Fats,  uncom^ 
lined  with  other  substances,  act  as  emetics  or  cathartics  and  not  as  food.  It  is 
only  when  combined  with  other  food  that  they  are  capable  of  being  taken  up 
by  the  absorbing  vessels,  and  made  to  act  as  fuel  to  the  system.  A half 
pound  of  crude  lard,  unmixed  with  any  other  substance,  would  be  rejected, 
but  when  thoroughly  and  skillfully  mixed  into  a flaky  crust  will  not  derange 
the  stomach,  and  will  be  assimilated  and  utilized.  Remember  that  the  use  of 
more  fat  than  can  be  perfectly  blended,  or  any  carelessness  or  imperfection  in  the 
process,  is  sure  to  produce  indigestion  and  work  mischief. 

Foods  differ  in  the  time  required  for  digestion.  Some  fruits  refresh  in- 
stantly, the  juice  being  at  once  absorbed  into  the  circulation.  Some  meats 
and  vegetables  yield  almost  immediately  to  the  action  of  the  gastric  juice, 
and  pass  into  the  circulation.  Others  require  a long  time  for  digestion.  The 
more  subtle  and  delicate  flavors  and  parts  of  food  yield  first ; then  the  gluten 
of  the  flour,  the  curd  of  the  milk,  the  fiber  of  the  flesh,  reinforce  the  blood 
and  supply  muscular  waste,  while,  later,  the  oily  and  sugary  portions  are 
worked  over  to  repair  waste  or  furnish  fuel  to  keep  up  the  heat  of  the  body. 

Food  has*chiefiy  two  offices  to  perform;  the  repair  of  muscular  waste, 
and  the  supply  of  the  body  with  fuel  to  keep  its  heat  up  to  98®.  Each  of 
these  is  indispensable  to  health  and  strength.  The  chief  part  of  what  we 
eat  is  used  by  the  lungs  for  fuel ; the  rest,  except  small  portions  of  mineral 
substances,  such  as  lime,  potash,  sulphur,  etc.,  goes  to  the  production  of 
muscular  and  brain  force.  The  great  secret  in  the  preparation  of  food  that 


1066 


THE  CHEMISTRY  OF  POOD. 


will  prolong  life  and  maintain  a high  state  of  health,  is  to  adapt  it  to  the 
peculiar  conditions  of  those  to  be  fed, — age,  occupation,  climate,  and  season 
to  be  considered.  Variety  of  food  is  nearly  always  at  hand ; knowledge  only 
is  necessary  to  choose  that  best  adapted  to  present  needs. 

The  heat  of  the  body  is  produced  by  the  action  of  the  lungs,  which  uses 
upjthe  heat-producing|food,  as  action  of  muscle  or  brain  consumes  the  muscle- 
making material.  The  former  is  non-nitrogenous ; the  latter  nitrogenous. 
Foods  maybe  divided  into  three  groups  ; the  nitrogenous,  in  which  nitrogen 
is  the  chief  element,  and  which  feeds  muscle  only ; the  non-nitrogenous, 
chiefly  carbon,  which  produce  heat  only ; and  those  in  which  both  are 
united. 

It  has  been  proved  by  chemical  analysis  that  the  body  requires  four  to 
five  ounces  for  heat  to  one  for  muscle,  and  this  gives  us  the  key  to  the  proper 
proportion  of  the  elements  in  food,  varying  slightly  of  course,  with  seasons, 
climates,  occupations,  and  conditions. 

The  substance  richest  in  nitrogen,  the  muscle-making  element,  is  albu- 
men, found  in  its  most  perfect  form  in  the  w^hite  of  an  egg.  The  lean  or  red 
parts  of  beef,  mutton,  venison,  and  chicken  contain  nearly  as  great  a per- 
centage, as  well  as  grain,  pease,  and  beans.  If  muscles  onl}^  were  to  be  fed, 
these  would  be  nearly  perfect  foods,  but  for  one  ounce  that  goes  to  muscle, 
five  ounces  must  go  to  heat,  and  this  calls  for  carbon. 

The  carbon  needed  to  keep  up  the  bodily  heat  comes  chiefly  from  starch, 
which  is  abundant  in  the  vegetable  kingdom.  Grate  a potato  and  wash  in  a 
succession  of  waters,  allowing  the  sediment  to  deposit  each  time,  and  a 
floury  substance  will  appear,  perfectly  white,  and  dry  and  crispy  to  the 
touch.  This  is  starch,  and  consists  of  round  grains,  too  small  to  be  seen  by 
the  eye.  One-half  of  the  bulk  of  dry  starch  is  carbon ; the  remainder  is 
oxygen  and  hydrogen  in  exactly  the  proportion  as  in  water ; and  in  that 
wonderful  laboratory,  the  stomach,  the  carbon  is  elminated  from  the  starch, 
and  the  oxygen  and  "hydrogen  combine  to  form  water. 

The  starch  made  from  wheat  is  seldom  used  as  food.  Sago,  Tapioco,  and 
arrowroot,  so  much  used  for  puddings,  are  almost  pure  starch,  with  slight 
coloring  matter  taken  from  the  material.  Corn  starch  is  less  agreeable  in 
flavor,  and  makes  a less  firm  jelly  when  cooked.  These  desert  dishes  are 
easily  digested,  and  contribute  carbon,  but  do  not  feed  muscle,  except  as  they 
are  combined  with  milk,  eggs,  etc.,  in  cooking,  which  contain  a little  nitro- 
gen and  a good  deal  of  carbon.  The  food,  then,  is  not  adapted  to  a working 
man  or  to  growing  children,  who  need  to  have  their  muscles  fed.  F or  persons 
of  sedentary  habits,  especially  for  the  aged,  whose  feeble  respiration  needs 
a large  supply  of  carbon  to  keep  up  heat,  they  are  valuable  because  easily 
digested.  For  others  they  are  of  value  only  to  supplement  muscle-making 
foo  d as  adessert. 


The  following  table  (Prof.  Yoemans)  gives  the  proportion  of  starch  in 
common  grains . 

Per  Cent  Starch,  Per  Cent  Starch. 

Rice  Flour,  - • - 84  to  85  Barley  Flour,  - - 67  to  70 

Indian  Meal,  - - - 77  to  80  Rye  Flour,  - - - 50  to  61 

Oat  Meal,  - - - 70  to  80  Buckwheat,  - - 52 

Wheat  Flour,  - - - 39  to  77  Pease  and  Beans,  - - 42  to  43 

Potatoes  (75  per  cent  water)  13  to  15. 

The  large  variation  in  wheat  flour  is  due  to  the  process  of  grinding.  Va- 
rieties of  wheat  only  vary  about  five  per  cent,  but  the  old  process  of  making 
fine  white  flour,  used  only  the  middle  or  starchy  parts  of  the  kernel,  reject- 
ing the  gluten  (nitrogenous  and  muscle-feeding.)  The  whitest  and  highest- 
priced  flour  was,  therefore,  less  nourishing,  containing  the  largest  per  cent 
of  starch.  Modern  invention  has,  however,  reversed  this,  and  the  best  “new 


THE  CHEMISTRY  OF  FOOD. 


1067 


process”  flour  contains  the  largest  proportion  of  gluten.  The  old  argument 
in  favor  of  Graham,  that  it  contained  a larger  proportion  of  nitrogen,  and 
better  supplied  the  body  with  muscle-making  material,  no  longer  holds  good. 
Analysis  shows  that  the  best  ‘‘new  process”  flour  and  Graham  are  almost 
identical  in  these  elements.  The  only  advantage  left  for  Graham  is  the  action 
of  the  coarser  particles  of  bran  (the  outer  shell  and  indigestible)  on  the  coat- 
ings of  the  stomach,  which  is  often  salutary,  but  sometimes  injurious  to  the 
delicate  membranes.  When  flour  and  bread  made  from  it  contains  one  part 
nitrogent  to  four  of  carbon,  it  is  nearly  perfect  food,  and  will  sustain  life. 

The  substance  which  is  of  next  importance  in  supplying  carbon  to  the 
body  is  oil  (which  is  chiefly  carbon).  The  oils  used  for  food  are  butter,  lard, 
and  the  fat  of  beef.  Other  oils,  used  sometimes  in  cooking,  are  nearly  iden- 
ticle  with  these.  They  contain  about  eighty  per  cent  of  carbon,  butter  hav- 
ing the  least.  In  grains,  oil  varies,  being  nine  per  cent  in  corn  meal,  six  in 
oatmeal,  three  and  a half  in  rye,  and  one  to  two  in  wheat.  Oils  and  starch 
serve  the  same  purpose  in  the  digestive  process ; both  are  useful  to  supply 
«arbon  ; neither  nourish  muscle.  Starch  is  easy  of  digestion,  requiring  one 
hour,  while  butter  is  converted  into  chyme  in  three  and  one-half,  mutton-fat 
in  four  and  a half,  and  beef-fat  in  five  and  one-half  hours.  This  furnishes 
the  best  of  reasons  why  fats  should  be  sjDaringly  used,  especially  in  warm 
and  moderate  weather,  when  a sufficient  supply  of  carbon  is  easily  secured 
from  vegetable  foods.  Besides,  it  is  a well  established  fact  that  excessive 
use  of  fats  in  cooking  cause  an  excessive  secretion  df  bile,  and  this  in  turn, 
causes  a sensation  like  hunger  and  an  increase  of  saliva.  This  is  mistaken 
for  real  hunger.  More  food  is  taken,  and  indigestion,  and  later  dyspepsia 
result.  An  eminent  authority  says  : “I  believe  it  will  be  found  the  offend- 
ing ingredient  in  nine-tenths  of  the  dishes  that  disturb  weak  stomachs.” 
IDyspeptics  need  to  reject  not  only  foods  in  which  fats  are  mixed,  but  those 
in  which  they  are  the  natural  element,  such  as  the  yolk  of  eggs,  liver,  milk, 
rich  cheese,  etc.  Yolks  contain  twenty-eight  per  cent  of  oil,  and  milk  over 
three  per  cent.  One  condition  only  calls  for  the  use  of  fats  in  daily  diet': 
Long  continued  exposure  to  excessive  cold.  One  pound  of  fat  furnishes  as 
much  carbon  as  two  and  four-tenths  pounds  of  starch,  or  seven  and  seven- 
tenths  pounds  lean  meat.  AVhen  the  moisture  of  the  breath  is  converted  to 
ice  and  freezes  on  the  beard,  the  air  has  no  watery  vapor  and  is  nearly  pure, 
containing  a large  per  cent  of  oxygen.  To  meet  this  in  the  lungs  requires 
J ibundant  carbon,  and  oils  furnish  this  most  readily. 

The  best  bread  for  cold  weather  is  that  containing  most  oil . Corn  bread 
1 anks  first,  oatmeal  next,'  rye  third  and  wheat  last.  Of  course  comparatively 
iew  are  exposed  to  the  rigors  of  winter  in  civilized  life,  and  brief  exposure 
to  cold  is  offset  by  an  increase  of  clothing,  and  ordinary  diet  furnishes  a 
plentiful  supply  of  carbon.  For  woodmen,  soldiers,  sailors,  pilots,  travelers, 
railroad  men,  and  others  exposed  to  long,  cold  storms,  especially  when  they 
can  not  exercise  freely,  should  eat  liberally  of  fat  beef,  yolks  of  eggs,  and 
butter.  Butter  is  the  least  objectionable  of  fats.  Fat  from  salt  pork  and 
smoked  bacon  is  less  injurious  than  that  from  fresh  pork.  Beef  fat  is  also 
much  more  wholesome  than  lard.  Above  all,  let  the  cook  remember  that 
oils  are  physic,  and  next  to  poison,  if  not  blended  with  substances  which 
contain  large  quanties  of  starch,  such  as  rice,  mealy  potatoes,  and  bread  made 
of  fine  wheat  flour.  An  ounce  of  lard  and  a pound  of  flour  thoroughly  blend- 
ed in  a loaf  of  bread  is  digestible,  but  the  same  amount  added  to  corn  meal 
(already  rich  in  oil)  would  be  fit  food  only  for  a Greenlander.  The  proper 
proportion  of  oil  in  food  of  ordinary  circumstances  is  illustrated  in  milk, 
which  contains  three  and  one-half  parts  of  oil  in  one  hundred. 

The  next  important  element  which  supplies  carbon  is  sugar,  which  is 
contained  in  greater  or  loss  quantity  in  all  vegetable  substances,  and  largely 
((five  to  six  and  one-half  per  cent)  in  milk.  Sugar  contains  forty  per  cent  car- 


1068 


THE  CHEMISTRY  OF  FOOD. 


bon,  the  rest  water.  It  seems  to  be  first  converted  into  fat,  and  then  used 
in  respiration.  In  moderate  quantities  it  has  no  injurious  effects.  A part  of 
sugar  as  ordinarily  eaten  passes  into  lactic  acid,  and  aids  digestion,  but  if  too 
much  is  produced  digestion  is  retarded. 

There  are  too  kinds  of  sugars  in  commerce — cane  and  grape.  The  former 
is  made  from  cane,  maple  saps,  beets,  corn-stalks,  etc. ; the  other  from  plants 
which  have  an  acid  juice.  Cane  sugar  contains  twelve  parts  carbon  to  eleven 
of  water ; grape  sugar  twelve  of  carbon  to  fourteen  of  water.  Sugars  are. 
changed  by  fermentation  into  carbonic  acid  and  alcohol,  but  grape  sugar  is 
most  liable  to  such  fermentation — cane  sugar  first  becoming  grape  sugar  by 
chemical  combination  with  water.  Pure  cane  sugar  remains  perfectly  dry 
and  unchanged  in  the  air,  while  grape  sugar  attracts  moisture,  and  becomes 
mealy  and  damp.  Cane  sugar  dissolves  more  readily  in  water  than  grape, 
and  hence  tastes  sweeter.  Two  pounds  of  cane  sugar  sweeten  as  much  as 
five  of  grape.  These  facts  give  a hint  to  housekeepers  of  great  value.  Grape 
sugar,  which  is  worth  only  two-fifths  as  much  as  cane,  is  used  largely  to  adul- 
terate the  latter.  The  fine,  floury  ‘‘powdered”  sugar  is  largely  grape  sugar, 
and  is  not  only  of  much  less  value,  but  deteriorates  more  rapidly  than  pure 
cane  sugar.  Brown  sugar,  after  standing  for  some  time,  absorbs  water  from 
the  air,  and  becomes  grape  sugar.  It  is,  therefore,  the  best  economy  to  buy 
the  best  white  granulated  sugar. 

There  is  another  element  of  food  which  does  not  feed  muscles,  vegetabla 
jelly,  called  pectine.  This  and  pectine  acid  particularly  abounds  in  fruits  and 
berries.  By  the  processes  of  ripening,  the  vegetable  acids  which  are  enclos- 
ed in  little  cells,  burst  out  and  diffuse  through  the  mass  of  fruit,  and  manu- 
facture pectine  or  jelly.  Heat  produces  the  same  effect  as  ripening,  and 
cooking  is,  in  fact,  only  a rapid  process  of  ripening.  The  jelly,  when  com- 
bined with  sugar,  goes  to  make  up  a variety  of  delicate  articles,  such  as 
jellies  and  marmalades.  They  are  nourishing,  principally  on  account  of  the 
sugar  they  contain,  but  are  easily  digested,  cooling  and  delicious.  It  should 
be  mentioned  that  nearly  all  fruits  are  rich  in  sugar, — a ripe  peach  containing 
as  much  as  an  equal  quantity  of  cane  juice. 

There  are  some  other  substances  which  appear  in  less  quantity  in  foods 
which  seem  none  the  less  essential  to  health  and  life.  One  of  these  is  phos- 
phorus, which  is  the  element  of  brain  and  nerves,  and  is  wasted  by  mental 
activity  and  nervous  excitement.  The  brain- worker  demands  a diet  rich  in 
phosphorus,  and  in  such  a form  as  to  be  easily  assimilated.  The  food  that 
best  sustains  a laborer  in  the  open  air  is  not  the  best  for  those  who  live  among 
the  excitements  and  exhausting  demands  on  the  brain,  that  are  the  rule  in 
city  life.  For  the  latter,  eggs,  most  kinds  of  fish,  oysters,  lobsters,  crabs, 
game,  cheese,  and  among  vegetables  the  potato;  and  these  foods  are  just 
what  are  craved  by  city  people* 

Another  element  is  sulphur,  which  is  required  in  the  growth  of  bone  and 
cartilage,  the  hair  and  nails.  Of  this  there  is  so  much  in  the  yolk  of  an  egg 
that  silver  is  blackened  by  contact  with  it.  Curd  of  milk  and  cheese  are  also 
rich  in  sulphur. 

Iron  is  always  present  in  healthy  blood,  and  its  absence — paleness — is  an 
indication  of  illness.  Most  articles  of  food  contain  iron ; in  the  juice  of  flesli, 
in  eggs,  and  in  milk  it  is  abundant.  Lime  and  salt  are  also  ingredients  in  all 
food,  the  former  making  bone,  and  the  latter  playing  an  important  part  in 
the  creation  of  the  digestive  juices.  Lime  is  found  in  all  grains,  particularly 
in  wheat  and  in  milk,  in  form  of  subphosphates.  Bread  and  milk  are  for 
this  reason  an  excellent  diet  for  growing  children,  as  they  supply  not  only 
heat  and  muscle,  but  lime  that  goes  to  supply  the  growth  of  bone.  Salt  also 
exists  in  many  articles  of  food. 

Men  and  races  grow  in  proportion  to  their  skill  in  combining  heat  and 
muscle-producing  foods.  The  hardy  Scotch  use  oatmeal  largely,  which  is 


'CHF  ^’HEMISTRY  OF  FOOD. 


1069 


rich  in  nit7cp'»r,.  The  Irl^h-  endure  a large  amount  of  hard  labor  on  cheap 
fare,  eat  potatoes,  oatmeal,  cabbage,  and  milk,  while  the  lime  and  phosphates 
are  said  to  ce  derived  honi  tne  “hard”  water  impregnated  with  lime.  The 
English  add  bacon  (heabproducing)  to  beans,  rich  in  nitrogen,  and  to  rice, 
wh^Rh  abounds  in  starch  (carbon),  and  milk  and  eggs,  which  feed  muscle. 
Tb  Italian  eats  macaroni,  which  is  principally  starch,  with  cheese,  rich  in 
n'^cogen.  The  use  of  chemistry  in  cooking  is  to  teach  how  to  supplement  one 
kind  of  food  by  another  which  contains  the  essentinl  elements  which  the  first 
lacks.  For  instance,  venison  contains  fifteen  per  cent  nitrogen  to  fifty-two 
carbon,  or  as  one  to  three  and  a half,  while  the  ratio  should  be  one  to  four  or 
five.  To  make  it  perfect  and  satisfying  food,  we  have  only  to  supplement  it 
with  something  rich  in  carbon,  as  "wheat  bread,  oatmeal,  potatoes,  or  rice. 
-V  farmer’s  dinner  of  salt  pork  and  cabbage  is  nearly  perfect  for  an  out-door 
laborer  in  cold  weather.  The  cabbage  is  rich  in  nitrogen  and  the  pork  in 
carbon.  It  is  a proper  dinner  dish,  because  it  requires  four  and  a half  hours 
to  digest,  while  a supper  may  be  made  on  venison,  which  is  digested  in  an 
hour.  Beef  ha.-5  fifteen  per  cent  of  nitrogen,  but  is  not  so  easily ' digested  as 
venison,  and  is  fit  only  for  a breakfast  or  dinner  dish.  Wheat  bread  does 
not  contain  nitrogen  enough  for  a workingman’s  diet,  and  butter  eaten  with 
it  does  not  supply  the  lack.  Some  kind  of  lean  meat  is  needed  to  make  per- 
fect food.  The  more  active  the  life  out  of  doors  the  nearer  can  health  be 
sustained  on.  a diet  of  lean  meat  only.  Beans  contain,  next  to  meats,  the 
most  nit’^ogen,  and  are  excellent  food  for  laborers.  The  cabbage  ranks  next, 
and  afterward  come  oats,  wheat  and  barley.  The  potato  contains  seventy- 
five  per  cent  water.  _ An  analysis  of  the  dry  matter  shows  one-tenth  of  it  to 
be  nitrogen,  so  that  its  nutritive  value  is  nearly  equal  to  wheat,  while  its 
great  productiveness  recommends  it  particularly  to  densely  populated  coun- 
tries. A dozen  large  patatoes  are  equal  to  a pound  of  flour.  The  onion  is 
very  rich  in  nitrogen, — one  onion  being  equal  to  three  potatoes  of  equal  size 
in  nutritive  value. 

Milk  contains  all  the  important  elements  of  food ; yet  adults  need  solid 
food.  Add  to  milk  eggs,  rich  in  nitrogen,  rice  and  sugar,  rich  in  carbon,  and 
you  have  a nutritious  dish,  easily  digested. 

Butter-milk  is  a wholesome  drink,  particularly  in  summer,  as  the  nutri- 
tive power  of  the  milk  is  bui  little  reduced  by  the  removal  of  the  butter, 
while  the  sourness,  due  to  the  formation  of  lactic  acid,  aids  digestion. 

Eggs  contain  a great  deal  of  carbon,  and  are,  for  that  reason,  good  food 
for  cold  weather.  They  are  too  concentrated  for  exclusive  diet,  and  should 
be  eaten  with  coarse  food,  or  that  which  is  composed  largely  of  starch. 

In  making  cakes,  the  oil  of  the  yolks  of  eggs  used  makes  the  perfect 
blending  of  lard  or  butter  impossible,  and  hence  unwholesome..  For  this 
reason  sponge  cake,  w^hich  contains  no  butter,  is  less  objectionable. 

Breads  differ  but  little  in  these  elements.  Corn  meal  contains  more  oil 
and  less  nitrogen  than  others,  and  oatmeal  is  richest  in  nitrogen.  The  easy 
blending  of  the  elements,  and  the  tough  gluten  of  wheat,  make  it  the  most 
available  grain  for  bread.  Wheat  bread  alone  will  support  life  longer  than 
any  other  food  except  animal  flesh.  The  proportion  of  nitrogen  to  carbon  is 
ane  to  five,  which  is  nearly  correct  for  a sedentary  person.  For  active,  out- 
door life  more  nitrogen  is  needed,  and  is  best  supplied  by  lean  meats. 

The  nutritive  qualities  of  animals  differ  but  little.  Wild  meats  digest 
more  easily  than  tame,  though  the  time  required  varies  with  the  age  and 
condition  of  the  animal.  Flesh  is  a stimulating  diet  because  it  is  force-giving 
and  muscle-feeding.  The  animal  has  gathered  from  various  sources  and 
concentrated  in  its  flesh  the  constituents  which  best  meet  the  wants  of  our 
bodies  in  the  most  available  form. 

Applying  the  knowledge  of  the  wants  of  the  body,  and  of  the  elements 
of  food  to  a bill  of  fare,  and  a wholesome  breakfast  demands  strength-giving 


1070 


THE  CHEMISTRY  OF  FOOD. 


and  muscle  making  food.  Nothing  is  more  quickly  available  than  beefsteak, 
and  it  is  most  digestible  broiled.  It  is  a diet  for  real  workers.  Eggs  are  nu- 
tritive, but  less  stimulating.  These  provide  for  the  muscles.  For  heat, 
starchy  food  is  demanded,  but  bulk  is  not  desirable  for  breakfast  after  a long 
fast.  Bread  and  cakes  of  wheat  flour  are  best  for  the  purpose,  and  fruits, 
raw  or  cooked  furnish  the  mild  vegetable  acid,  which  aids  digestion  If  cof- 
fee is  taken  at  all,  breakfast  is  the  time,  so  that  the  stimulating  effect  may 
pass  away  before  the  hour  of  rest  comes.  An  infusion  of  genuine  coffee,  not 
a decoction,  is  not  injurious  in  the  morning  to  most  persons,  and  is  beneficial 
to  those  exposed  to  changes  ot  temperature. 

Nothing  appeases  the  appetite  sooner  than  the  juice  of  flesh.  The  barle 
gives  a color  and  flavor.  Following  soup  is  roast  beef,  which  feeds  the  muscles^ 
and  after  it  come  the  puddings,  which  abound  in  carbon,  to  give  the  fuel 
necessary  to  keep  up  the  animal  heat.  Last  comes  fruit  to  aid  digestion, 
with  its  agreeable  acids.  In  summer  less  carbon  should  appear  on  the  bills 
of  fare,  and  blanc-manges,  creams,  fruit  puddings  and  pies,  berries,  and  ripe 
fruits  should  make  up  the  desserts. 

In  making  a feast,  the  wise  hostess  would  consider  well  what  has  been 
the  employment  of  the  guests.  A party  of  fox-hunters,  or  wood-choppers,  or 
surveyors,  would  require  an  abundance  of  meats,  but  a collection  of  artists 
and  scholars  would  relish  better  a variety  of  delicacies  and  novelties.  A 
sleighing  party  will  devour  carbon,  but  those  who  have  sweltered  under  a 
July  sun  long  for  cooling  fruits  and  the  leanest  of  meats.  The  time  when 
a feast  is  given  should  decide  whether  food,  easy  or  difficult  of  digestion, 
should  appear  on  a bill  of  fare,  though  such  consideration  for  the  health  of 
guests  is  hardly  to  be  expected  of  the  average  hostess. 

A table  of  relative  proportions  of  nitrogenous  to  carbonaceous  elements 
in  food,  deducted  from  above  hints  may  be  of  aid  to  many  and  has  been 
kindly  given  us  by  a physician. 


Album 
or  Nitrog. 


Lean  beef 1 

Eggs 1 

Pease 1 

Beans 1 

Lentils 1 

Milk 1 

Fat  Beef 1 

1 )atmeal 1 

Wheat  meal  or  Bread 1 

Indian  meal 1 

Rye  meal 1 

Potatoes 1 

Carrots  1 

Barley  meal 1 

Rice 1 


Carbonaceous. 

5 

1.5 

2.7 

2.7 

2.4 

3.6 

5.0 

6.1 

7.0 

7.7 

9.8 

10.7 

11.5 

12.7 

13.0 


By  the  above  table  it  will  be  seen  that  wheat  meal  is  the  food  which 
of  all  single  substances  the  most  perfectly  meets  the  requirements  of  the 
system,  containing  exactly  seven  parts  of  the  carbonaceous  elements  to  one 
of  the  albuminous.  Beef  and  eggs  are  deficient  in  the  carbonaceous  elements. 
Potatoes  and  most  other  vegetables,  and  rice,  are  deficient  in  albuminous 
elements.  Oatmeal  has  an  excess  of  the  albuminous  elements.  By  combin- 
ing food  substances  which  are  deficient  in  one  class  of  elements  with  those  in 
which  the  same  class  is  in  superabundant  proportion,  the  two  classes  of  ele- 
ments may  be  furnished  to  the  system  in  just  the  right  proportion.  For  in- 
stance, lean  beef,  eggs,  pease,  beans,  milk,  or  oatmeal  may  be  used  with 


THE  CHEMISTRY  OF  FOOD. 


i071 


potatoes,  rice  or  other  foods  deficient  in  albuminous  elements.  It  is  for  this 
reason  that  the  Irish  or  Scotch  laborer  by  instinct  combines  with  his  potatoesj 
oatmeal  porridge  or  buttermilk.  The  following  gives  the  proper  proportion 
of  different  foods  necessary  to  furnish  the  right  amount  of  albuminous  ele- 
ments. 


TABLE  OP  COMBINED  FOODS. 


Lb.Oz. 

Lb. 

Oz. 

8 

Lean  beef 

8 Potatoes. 

(( 

it 

1 

8 Rice. 

(< 

it 

1 

8 Indian  Meal. 

12 

Eggs 

it 

1 

6 Rice. 

9 

ti 

5 

2 Potatoes. 

3 

pts.  Milk 

it 

1 

Rice. 

21^ 

it 

4 

4 Potatoes. 

oz.  Pease 

it 

1 

4 Rice. 

6 

n n 

it 

5 

Potatoes. 

1 5 

‘‘  Oatmeal 

ti 

5 Rice. 

1 4 

it  a 

it 

1 

11  Potatoes. 

1 4 

it  a 

it 

5 Rye  Meal. 

15 

it  it 

i i 

10  Indian  Meal. 

The  quantity  of  each  kind  of  food  given  in  the  above  table,  when  added 
to  that  of  "the  food  substance  given  in  the  same  line  in  the  opposite  column, 
makes  just  the  quantity  necessary  to  sustain  life  well  for  one  day.  Persons 
engaged  in  very  active  labor  of  course  need  more  food  than  others,  and  the 
amount  may  be  increased  accordingly,  the  same  proportion  being  always 
preserved. 

It  may  be  observed  that  it  is  not  necessary  to  combine  flesh  with  vege- 
table food  in  order  to  secure  the  proper  proportion  of  the  nitrogenous  and 
carbonaceous  elements,  since  there  are  several  vegetable  foods  which  contain 
the  albuminous  elements  in  excess,  which  is  also  the  case  with  eggs  and 
milk.  For  example  three  pints  of  milk  and  one  pound  of  rice  make  as  per- 
fect a combination  so  far  as  the  proportion  of  elements  is  concerned,  as  seven 
and  a half  ounces  of  lean  beef  and  a pound  and  a half  of  rice.  Seven  and  one- 
half  ounces  of  pease  and  a pound  and  a quarter  of  rice  is  an  equally  perfect 
combination  of  food  elements,  which  may  also  be  said  of  one  pound  five 
ounces  of  oatmeal  and  five  ounces  of  rice  ; one  and  a quarter  pounds  of  oat- 
meal and  five  ounces  of  rye  meal,  or  fifteen  ounces  of  oatmeal  and  ten  ounces 
of  Indian  meal. 

Bread  is  not  included  in  the  list  of  combinations,  because  it  is  a perfect 
food  by  itself,  and  hence  does  not  need  to  be  combined  with  other  foods,  ex- 
cept for  variety.  This  remark  applies,  of  course,  only  to  wheat-meal  or  graham 
\)read.  White  or  fine-flour  bread  is  very  deficient  in  albuminous  elements. 
Another  advantage  in  combining  various  foods  is  to  be  found  in  avoiding  too 
great  bulk  in  the  case  of  vegetable  foods,  and  too  great  concentration  in  the 
case  of  some  animal  foods.  This  will  be  readily  apparent  when  it  is  observed 
how  great  quantities  of  some  single  food  substances  are  necessary  to  supply 
the  system  with  the  proper  quantity  of  nitrogenous  elements,  when  eaten 
alone,  as  shown  by  the  following  table. 

Amount  of  various  foods  necessary  to  furnish  the  proper  daily  amoimt 
of  nitrogenous  elements. 


1072 


THE  CHEMISTRY  OF  FOOD. 


Ounces. 

Lean  meat J5.6 

Eggs 21.2 

Peas 11.2 

Oatmeal 23.6 

Baker’s  bread 36.7 

Wheat  flour,  flne 27.5 

Graham  flour 25.5 

Indian  meal 26.8 

Kj^e  meal 37.1 

Pounds. 

Rice 3.0 

Potatoes 8.8 


Pounds. 

Grapes 11.0 

Apples 2.5 

Peaches 37.5 

Plums 37.5 

Cherries 7.0 

Carrots 14.2 

Turnips 15.4 

Cabbage 15.4 

Parsnips 16.9 

Pints. 

Milk 4.5 

Beer 185.0 


By  reference  to  the  preceeding  table  any  one  will  be  able  to  so  combine 
various  articles  of  food  as  to  secure  the  proper  amount  of  nutritious  matter 
without  overloading  the  digestive  organs,  and  yet  give  to  the  food  the  bulk 
necessary  for  good  digestion.  Evidently,  it  would  overtax  the  stomach  to 
digest  turnips  in  sufficient  quantities  to  supply  the  wants  of  the  body,  while 
lean  meat  would  afford  an  insufficient  amount  of  bulk,  as  well  as  being  defi- 
cient in  carbonaceous  matter. 


THE  CELLAK  AND  ICE-HOUSE. 


1073 


THE  OEELAH  AISTH  lOE-HOIJSE, 


The  cellar,  when  properly  constructed  and  cared  for,  is  the  most  useful 
room  in  the  house,  and  no  dwelling  is  complete  without  one.  It  is  economy 
of  expense  and  ground  space  to  build  it  underground,  and  this  plan  gives 
the  best  cellar  wherever  the  site  of  the  house  permits  througn  drainage. 
The  base  of  the  foundation-wall  of  the  house  should  be  laid  a little  below 
the  floor-level  of  the  cellar,  and  the  first  layer  should  be  of  broad  flag-stones, 
so  placed  that  the  edges  will  project  a few  inches  beyond  the  outer  face  of 
the  wall.  This  effectually  prevents  rats  from  undermining  the  cement  floor, 
which  they  often  do  when  this  precaution  is  neglected,  digging  away  the  dirt 
until  the  floor  breaks  and  gives  them  access  to  a new  depot  of  supplies.  In 
burrowing  Qownwards,  they  invariably  keep  close  to  the  wall,  and  when  they 
reach  the  projecting  flagging,  give  it  up  and  look  for  an  easier  job-  To  secure 
the  cellar  from  freezing,  the  wall,  above  the  level  of  the  deepest  frost,  should 
be  double  or  ‘‘hollow,”  the  inner  wall  being  of  brick  four  inches  thick,  with 
an  air-space  of  two  inches  between  it  and  the  outer  wall,  which  should  be  of 
stone  and  twelve  or  fourteen  inches  thick.  The  brick  wall  should  be  stiff- 
ened by  an  occasional  “binder”  across  to  the  stone.  The  hollow  space  may 
be  filled  with  dry  tan-bark  or  sawdust,  or  left  simply  filled  with  the  confined 
air,  “dead  air”  being  the  most  perfect  non-conductor  of  heat  known.  The 
windows,  which  should  be  opposite  each  other  when  possible,  to  secure  a 
“draft”  and  more  perfect  ventilation,  should  be  provided  with  double  sash 
—one  flush  with  the  outer  face  of  the  wall,  which  may  be  removed  in  sum- 
mer, and  the  other  flush  with  the  inner  face,  hung  on  strong  hinges,  so  that 
it  may  easily  be  swung  open  upward  and  hooked  there.  In  winter,  this 
arrangement  lets  in  light,  but  with  its  space  of  confined  air,  keeps  out  tliQ 
frost.  A frame  covered  with  wire  netting  should  take  the  place  of  the  outer 
sash  in  summer,  to  keep  out  every  thing  but  the  fresh  air  and  light.  The 
walls  should  be  as  smooth  as  possible  on  the  inner  side,  and  neatly  plastered; 
also  the  ceiling  overhead.  The  floor  should  be  first  paved  with  small  stones, 
then  a coat  of  water-lime  laid  on,  and  over  this  a second  coat,  as  level  as  a 
planed  floor.  There  should  also  be  double  doors,  one  flush  with  each  face  ot 
the  wall ; and  a wide  out-door  stairway,  through  which  vegetables,  coal,  et^5- 
may  be  carried,  is  indispensable.  The  depth,  should  be  about  eight  fe«l 
68 


1074 


THE  CELLAR  AND  ICE-HOUSE. 


Such  a cellar  may  always  be  clean,  the  air  pure,  and  the  temperature 
under  complete  control.  It  will  consequently  keep  apples  and  pears  two  or 
three  months  longer  than  an  ordinary  cellar,  prolonging  the  fruit  season  to 
“strawberry-time.”  If  it  extends  under  the  whole  house — the  best  plan 
when  the  state  of  the  purse  permits  it — it  may  be  divided  into  apartments, 
with  brick  walls  between — one  for  vegetables,  one  for  fruits,  one  for  provis- 
ions, one  for  the  laundry,  and  a fifth  for  coal  and  the  furnace,  if  one  is  used, 
in  one  corner  of  the  cellar,  under  the  kitchen,  may  also  be  the  cistern,  the 
strong  cellar  w^all  serving  for  its  outer  wall.  A pump  from  the  kitchen  would 
supply  water  there  for  domestic  uses  ; and  a pipe  with  a stop-cock,  leading 
llirough  the  wall  into  the  cellar,  would  occasionally  be  a convenience  and 
save  labor.  It  is  better,  however,  as  a rule,  to  locate  the  cistern  just  out- 
side the  house,  passing  a pipe  from  it  through  the  cellar  w^all  below  the 
deepest  frost  level,  and  thence  to  the  kitchen.  If  built  in  the  cellar,  the 
cistern  should  be  scpiare,  with  heavy  walls,  plastered  inside  with  three  coats 
of  water-lime. 

All  the  apartments  of  a cellar  should  be  easily  accessible  from  the  outside 
door  and  fiom  the  kiichen  stairway.  In  the  vegetable  apartment,  the  bins 
should  be  made  of  dressedi  ]uml)er,  and  painted,  and  located  in  the  center, 
with  a walk  around  each,  so  that  the  contents  may  easily  be  examined  and 


assorted.  The  Fruit  Shelves,  made  of  slats  two 
inches  wide  and  placed  one  inch  apart,  should 
be  put  up  with  equal  care  and  neatness,  and 
v/ith  equal  regard  for  convenience  and  easy 
access.  Their  place  should  be  the  most  airy 
part  of  the  cellar ; the  proper  width  is  about 
two  feet,  and  the  distance  apart  about  one 
foot,  with  the  lowest  shelf  one  foot  from  the 
floor.  Pears  will  ripen  nicely  on  the  lower 
shelves  under  a cover  of  woolen  blankets.  The 


support  should,  of  course,  be  firm  and  strong.  The  bottom  shelf  should  be 
of  one  board,  on  which  to  scatter  fine  fresh  lime  to  the  depth  of  an  inch, 
changing  it  two  or  three  times  during  the  winter.  A shelf,  suspended  firmlj.' 
from  the  ceiling,  and  located  where  it  will  be  easy  of  access  from  the  kitchen, 
on  which  to  place  cakes,  pies,  meats,  and  anything  that  needs  tobe  kept 
cool  and  safe  from  cats  and  mice,  is  an  absolute  necessity.  Its  height  pre- 
vents the  articles  placed  on  it  from  becoming  damp,  and  gathering  mold,  as 
they  sometimes  do  when  placed  on  the  cellar  floor.  In  planning  shelves  for 
cans,  crocks,  casks,  etc.,  regard  should  be  had  to  economy  of  space  by  making 
the  distance  between  the  shelves  correspond  to  the  articles  to  stand  on  them, 
and  it  is  well  to  so  place  the  lower  shelf  that  the  meat  barrels,  etc.,  may  be 
placed  under  it.  The  temperature  of  a cellar  should  never  be  below  freez- 
ing, and  if  it  is  raised  above  fifty  by  a fire,  outside  air  should  be  admitted  to 
lower  it.  The  best  time  for  ventilating  the  cellar  is  at  noon,  taking  care  in 
hot  weather  not  to  admit  so  much  outside  air  as  to  render  it  warm.  A sim- 
ple and  excellent  plan  for  ventilation,  where  the  location  of  the  kitchen 


THE  CELLAR  AND  ICE-HOUSE. 


1075 


chimney  admits  it,  is  to  pass  an  ordinary  stove-pipe  through  the  floor  upward 
beside  or  behind  the  pipe  of  the  kitchen  stove,  and  thence  by  an  elbow  into 
the  chimney.  The  draft  of*  the  chimney  will  carry  off  all  the  impure  air  that 
arises  in  the  cellar,  and  if  too  great  a current  is  created,  it  may  be  brought 
under  complete  control  by  a valve  at  the  floor.  The  most  perfectly  kept  cel- 
lar in  our  experience  was  cared  for  in  the  following  manner ; the  reasons 
being  that  the  object  of  ventilation  is  keep  cellars  cool  and  dry,  but  this  ob- 
ject often  fails  of  being  accomplished  by  a common  mistake,  and  instead  the 
cellar  is  made  both  warm  and  damp.  A cool  place  should  never  be  ventil- 
ated unless  the  air  admitted  is  cooler  than  the  air  within,  or  is  at  least  as 
cool  as  that,  or  a very  little  warmer.  The  warmer  the  air  the  more  moisture 
it  holds  in  suspension.  Necessarily,  the  cooler  the  air,  the  more  this  moist- 
ure is  condensed  and  precipitated.  When  a cool  cellar  is  aired  on  a warm 
day,  the  entering  air  being  in  motion  appears  cool,  but  as  it  fills  the  cellar 
the  cooler  air  with  which  it  becomes  mixed,  chills  it,  the  moisture  is  con- 
densed, and  dew  is  deposited  on  the  cold  walls,  and  may  often  be  seen  run- 
ning down  them  in  streams.  Then  the  cellar  is  damp  and  soon  becomes 
moldy.  To  avoid  this  the  windows  should  only  be  opened  at  night,  and  late 
— the  last  thing  before  retiring.  There  is  no  need  to  fear  that  the  night  air 
is  unhealthful — it  is  as  pure  as  the  air  of  midday,  and  is  really  dryer.  The 
cool  air  enters  the  apartment  during  the  night,  and  circulates  through  it. 
The  windows  should  be  closed  before  sunrise  in  the  morning,  and  kept  closed 
and  shaded  through  the  day.  If  the  air  of  the  cellar  is  damp  it  may  be 
thoroughly  dried  by  placing  in  it  a peck  of  fresh  lime  in  an  open  box.  A 
peck  of  lime  will  absorb  about  seven  pounds  or  more  than  three  quarts  of 
>\'ater,  and  in  this  way  a cellar  or  mill  room  may  soon  be  dried,  even  in  the 
. hottest  weather. 

The  cellar  must  be  frequently  examined  and  kept  perfectly  sweet  and 
I dean.  There  is  no  reason  why  it  should  not  be  as  neat  as  the  living  rooms, 
and  as  free  from  cobwebs,  decayed  fruit  and  vegetables,  and  all  other  forms 
' filthiness.  Whitewashing  walls  in  winter  will  aid  in  giving  it  tidiness. 

If  the  cellar  is  constructed  above  ground,  the  entire  walls  should  be 
iouble,  with  air  space  between,  double  windows  and  doors  being  even  more 
necessary  than  when  under-ground.  Above  all,  the  floor  should  be  on  a 
level  with  that  of  the  kitchen,  to  save  the  woman -killing  stairs.  If  there 
are  stairs,  let  them  be  broad,  firm,  and  placed  in  the  light  if  possible.  Of 
course,  every  cellar  should  have  thorough  drainage.  In  laying  a tile  drain, 
if  in  the  horseshoe  form,  place  the  circular  side  down ; the  narrower  the' 
channel,  the  swifter  the  current  and  more  certain  to  carry  off  sediment. 


THE  - STORE-ROOM. 

A clean,  tidy,  well-arranged  store-room  is  one  sign  of  a good  methodical 
housekeeper.  When  stores  are  put  away  at  hap-hazard,  and  taken  out  at 
any  time  and  in  any  quantity,  disorder  and  extravagance  prevail.  A store- 
room ought  to  be  large,  airy,  cool,  and  dry.  Such  a room  is  not  always  to 
be  had,  but  even  if  a closet  has  to  be  put  up  with,  it  may  be  kept  clean. 
Shelves  should  be  ranged  around  the  walls,  hooks  fastened  to  the  edges  of 
the  shelves.  The  driest  and  coolest  part  of  the  rooms  should  be  kept  for 
jams,  jellies,  and  pickles.  All  the  jars  should  be  distinctly 
labeled  at  the  front,  so  that  they  will  not  all  need  to  be 
taken  down  every  time  a particular  jar  is  wanted.  Biscuits 
or  cakes  should  be  kept  in  closely  covered  tin  boxes  ; lemons 
should  be  hung  in  nets.  Soap  should  be  bought  in  large 
quantities,  and  cut  up  in  convenient-sized  pieces,  so  that  it 
may  be  dry  before  it  is  used.  Coffee,  when  roasted,  should 
be  kept  in  small  quantities ; if  unroasted,  it  will  improve 
ricauiui  Jar.  with  keeping.  Stores  on  no  account  should  be  left  in  the 


1076 


THE  CELLAR  AND  ICE-HOUSE. 


left  in  the  papers  in  which  they  were  sent  from  the  grocer’s,  but  should  be 
put  into  tin  canisters  or  earthen  jars  closely  covered,  and  each  jar,  like  the 
picallilli,  should  he  labeled.  Stores  should  be  given  out  regularly,  either 
daily  or  weekly.  In  order  to  check  their  consumption,  the  housekeeper  will 
do  well  to  keep  in  the  storeroom  a memorandum  book,  with  a pencil  fastened 
to  it,  and  in  this  book  she  should  enter  the  date  on  which  all  stores  were 
brought  in  or  taken  out.  By  means  of  these  memoranda  she  can  compare 
one  week’s  outgo  with  another,  and  immediately  discover  any  extravagance. 
A hammer,  a few  nails,  a ball  of  string,  a few  sheets  of  foolscap  and  a bot- 
tle of  mucilage  or  a book  of  gummed  labels,  a step  ladder,  the  illustration 
given  being  the  best  kind  and  a pair  of  scissors  should  always  be  kept  in  the 
store-room. 


THE  ICE-HOUSE. 

Ice  is  one  of  the  greatest  of  summer  luxuries,  and  indeed  is  almost  a 
necessity.  It  is  so  easily  put  up,  even  in  the  country,  aud  so  cheaply  pro- 
tected, that  there  is  no  reason  why  any  one  who  is  able  to  own  or  rent  a 
house  may  not  have  it  in  liberal  supply.  A cheap  ice-house  may  be  made 
by  partitioning  off  a space  about  twelve  feet  square  in  the  wood-shed,  or 
even  in  the  barn.  Thereof  must  be  tight  over  it,  but  there  is  no  necessity 
for  matched  or  fine  lumber  for  the  walls.  . They  should,  however,  be  coated 
with  coal-tar  inside,  as  the  long-continued  moisture  puts  them  to  a severe 
test  and  brings  on  decay.  Ice  should  be  taken  from  still  places  in  running 
streams,  or  from  clear  ponds.  It  may  be  cut  with  half  an  old  cross-cut  saw, 
but  there  are  saws  and  ice-plows  made  for  the  purpose  to  be  had  in  almost 
every  village.  In  cutting  ice,  as  soon  as  it  is  of  sufficient  thickness  and  be- 
fore much  warm  weather,  select  a still  day,  with  the  thermometer  as  near 
zero  as  maybe.  Ice  handles  much  more  comfortably  and  easily  when  it  is 
so  cold  that  it  immediately  freezes  dry,  thus  preventing  the  wet  clothes  and 
mittens,  which  are  the  sole  cause  of  auy  suffering  in  handling  it;  and  ice  put 
up  in  sharp,  cold  weather,  before  it  has  been  subjected  to  any  thaw,  will 
keep  much  better  and  be  much  more  useful  in  the  hot  days  of  summer  tlian 
if  its  packing  had  been  delayed  until  late  winter  or  early  spring,  and  then 
the  ice  put  up  half  melted  and  wet.  The  best  simple  contrivance  for  remov- 
ing blocks  of  ice  from  the  water  is  a plank  with  a cleat  nailed  across  one 
end,  which  is  to  be  slipped  under  the  block,  which  slides  against  the  cleat, 
andVnay  then  be  easily  drawn  out  with  the  plank,  without  lifting.  Cut  the 


THE  CELLAR  AND  ICE-HOUSE. 


1077 


ice  in  large  blocks  of  equal  size,  pack  as  closely  as  possible  in  layers,  leav- 
ing about  foot  space  between  the  outside  and  the  wall, 
and  filling  all  crevices  between  the  blocks  with  pounded 
ice  or  sawdust.  Under  the  first  layer  there  should  be 
placed  sawdust  a foot  thick,  and  arrangements  should  be 
made  for  thorough  drainage,  as  water  in  contact  with  the 
ice  will  melt  it  rapidly.  As  the  layers  are  put  in  place, 
pack  sawdust  closely  between  the  mass  of  ice  and  the 
wall ; and  when  all  is  stored,  cover  with  a foot,  at  least, 
of  sawdust.  In  using  ice,  be  careful  to  cover  all  crevices 
with  sawdust,  as  the  ice  will  melt  rapidly  if  exposed  fo 
the  air.  The  less  ventilation  and  the  more  completely 
an  ice-house  is  kept  closed,  the  better  the  ice  will  keep. 

The  cold  air  which  surrounds  the  ice,  if  undisturbed  by 
effect  on  it;  but  if  there  are  openings, 
currents  are  formed  and  the  warm  air  is  brought  in  to  re^ 
place  the  cold.  This  is  especially  the  case  if  the  open- 
ings are  low,  as  the  cold  air,  being  the  heavier,  passes 
out  below  most  readily.  For  this  reason  great  care  must 
be  taken  to  fill  in  fresh  saw-dust  between  the  walls  and 
the  mass  of  ice,  as  it  settles  down  by  its  own  weight,  and 
the  melting  of  the  ice.  There  is  no  advantage  in  having 
an  ice-house  wholly  or  partly  underground,  if  it  is  con- 
structed as  directed  above.  Fine  chaff,  or  straw  cut  fine. 
Ice  Box.  may  be  substituted  for  sawdust  when  the  latter  is  difficult 

to  obtain.  Of  course,  the  building  may  be  constructed  separately,  in  which 
case  the  cost  need  not  be  more  than  twenty-five  to  fifty  dollars.  AVhere  one 
in  city  or  country  wishes  to  secure  ice  to  last  a month  or  more  a box  made 
on  same  principle  as  an  Ice-house  is  ve’’^"  convenient. 


currents,  has  little 


ii'y 



i 

...... 

i 

i- 

I 

• • 

Td 

Keeping  Funits  and  Vegetables. 

To  Keep  Cellar  Clean. — Rem.ove  all  vegetables  as  soon  as  they  oegin  to 
d^cay,  and  ventilate  well  so  that  the  walls  will  not  become  foul.  Use  chlo- 
ride of  lime  as  a disinfectant  freely,  after  taking  care  to  make  it  as  neat  and 
clean  as  possible,  and  an  ounce  of  carbolic  acid  to  a gallon  of  whitewash  will 
keep  from  cellars  the  disagreeable  odor  which  taints  milk  and  meat.  Or,  add 
copperas  to  ordinary  whitewash  until  it  is  yellow ; the  copperas  is  a disin- 
fectant and  drives  away  vermin. 

To  Keep  Apples. — They  must  be  carefully  picked  without  bruising  and 
are  usually  kept  on  open  shelves,  as  described,  easily  accessible,  so  that  the 
decaying  ones  may  be  removed  often.  They  are  sometimes  packed  in  layers 
‘ in  dry  sand,  care  being  taken  not  to  let  them  touch  each  other,  with  good  re- 
sults ; they  bear  a very  low  temperature.  When  they  begin  to  decay,  pick 
out  those  which  are  speckled,  dry  or  stew  them  up  with  cider  and  sugar,  and 
fill  all  empty  self-sealing  fruit-cans,  and  keep  the  sauce  for  use  late  in  the 
season.  Or  pack  in  grain,  barley,  etc. , so  that  they  will  not  touch,  or  if  fruit 
is  fine,  wrap  each  apple  in  paper  and  pack  in  boxes,  or  glazed  jars  with  covers. 
Or  when  packed  right  from  the  tree,  hand  pick  them  and  put  them  in  dry 
flour  barrels,  pressing  them  down  closely  and  heading  them  up.  Let  them 
stand  under  a shed  until  cold  weather  sets  in,  and  then  remove  to  a dry  cel- 
lar, or  some  place  where  they  will  not  freeze.  Care  must  be  taken  that  none 
but  perfect  fruit  is  barreled.  Another  method  is  to  sprinkle  a layer  of  saw- 


1078 


THE  CELLAR  AND  ICE-HOUSE. 


dust,  not  that  from  resinons  woods,  on  bottom  of  a box,  and  then  a la5^er  of 
apples  placed  in  so  that  they  do  not  touch  each  other  Upon  this  place  a 
layer  of  saw-dust,  and  so  on  till  the  box  is  filled.  The  boxes,  after  being 
packed  in  this  way,  place  in  the  cellar  up  from  the  ground,  where  they  will 
keep  perfectly,  retaining  their  freshness  and  fiavor  until  brought  out,  or  any 
grain  as  oats,  barley,  etc.,  may  he  used  or  paper  thus  used  will  keep  them 
nicely  either  in  box  or  barrel.  After  apples  are  opened  it  is  well  to  look 
them  over,  handling  them  very  carefully,  once  or  twice  a month,  removing 
all  the  least  imperfect. 

The  following  wholesale  way  where  there  is  plenty  of  material,  is  as  fol- 
lows ; Buckwheat  chaff  is  first  spread  on  the  barn  floor,  and  on  this  chaff  the 
apples  are  placed,  when  they  are  covered  with  chaff  and  straw  two  or  three 
feet  in  thickness.  Let  remain  till  spring.  It  would  be  better  to  make  layers 
of  apples  and  chaff  or  be  careful  to  fill  all  the  interstices  well  with  chaff. 
The  covering  and  bedding  in  chaft'  has  several  important  advantages — it  ex- 
cludes cold,  prevents  air  currents,  maintains  a uniform  temperature,  absorbs 
the  moisture  of  decay,  and  prevents  the  decay  produced  by  moisture 

Cranberries — will  keep  all  winter  in  a keg  of  water,  changing  water  twice 
a week ; or  place  them  in  tub  or  keg,  without  water,  let  them  freeze  and 
keep  them  frozen.  When  any  are  wanted  to  use,  put  them  in  a littie  cold 
water  and  cook  at  once.  Or  a safer  way  is  to  can  them  when  purchased,, 
sw  eetening  to  taste,  and  then  if  any  are  wished  sweeter  or  “jellied’’  for  com- 
pany, sugar  can  be  added  and  fruit  cooked  longer  when  can  is  opened. 

Fruit. — Take  fruit  as  soon  after  being  picked  as  possible,  see  that  it  is 
sound  and  clean,  pack  it  tightly  into  the  jar,  bottle  or  keg;  shake  it  down 
well  so  as  to  completely  fill  the  vessel,  then  pour  on  the  following  solution: 
36)^  grains  of  salisylic  acid  to  six  ounces  of  white  sugar  and  one  quart  of  pure, 
soft,  cold  water. 

That  fruit  can  be  preserved  for  a long  time  in  a frozen  state,  and  even  in 
a non-frozen  state,  so  long  as  the  temperature  does  not  exceed  32  deg.,  is  a 
well-knowm  fact.  But  it  is  equally  well  known  that  articles  so  preserved  lose 
flavor  every  day  after  they  are  so  stored,  and  that  when  exposed  afterward 
to  an  ordinary  temperature  they  perish  almost  immediately.  In  placing  fruit 
on  ice,  the  main  thing  to  observe  is  not  to  pack  it  in  any  way  or  to  w'rap  it  in 
anything.  It  should  be  placed  on  a tray  or  in  a tin  box  with  a lid  to  keep  off 
drip,  but  each  fruit  should  be  set  out  singly  by  itself  and  not  come  in  contact 
with  its  neighbors,  and  great  care  should  be  used  to  prevent  bruising,  as  that 
•will  greatly  hasten  decay  when  the  fruit  is  taken  out.  It  is  not  needful  to 
bury  the  boxes  quite  in  the  ice  ; but  they  may  be  set  in  it  with  the  lid  of  the 
box  above  the  surface,  so  that  all  of  the  fruit  can  be  got  without  trouble. 
Peaches,  nectarines,  melons,  pineapples,  figs,  and  other  soft  fruits  that  do 
not  keep  long,  succeed  best  preserved  in  this  manner. 

Gath&ring  Fruit. — The  right  time  is  just  as  they  are  beginning  to  fall 
from  the  trees.  Observe  when  the  apples  and  pears  are  ripe,  and  do  not 
pick  them  always  at  the  same  regular  time  of  the  year,  as  is  the  custom  with 
many.  A dry  season  will  forw^ard  the  ripening  of  the  fruit,  and  a wet  one 
retard  it,  so  that  there  will  sometimes  be  a month’s  difiference  in  the  proper 
time  for  gathering.  If  this  is  attended  to  the  fruit  will  keep  well,  be  plump, 
and  not  shrivelled,  as  is  the  case  with  all  fruit  that  is  gathered  before  it  is 
ripe.  The  mode  of  gathering  is  to  give  them  a lift,  so  as  to  press  away  the 
stalk,  and  if  ripe  they  readily  part  from  the  tree.  Those  that  will  not  come 
off  easily  should  hang  a little  longer ; for  when  they  come  off  hard  they  will 
not  be  so  fit  to  be  stored,  and  the  violence  done  at  the  foot-stalk  may  injure 
the  bud  there  formed  for  next  year’s  fruit.  Let  pears  he  quite  dry  when  pull- 
ed, and  in  handling  avoid  pinching  fruit'  or  in  any  way  bruising  it,  as  those 


THE  CELLAR  AND  ICE-HOUSE. 


1079 


which  are  hurt  not  only  decay  themselves,  but  presently  spread  infection  to 
those  near  them;  when  suspected  to  be  damaged,  let  them  be  carefully  kept 
from  the  others,  and  used  first ; as  gathered,  lay  them  gently  in  shallow  bask- 
ets. When  possible  gather  in  the  middle  of  a dry  day.  Plums  readily  part 
from  the  twigs  w’hen  ripe  ; they  should  not  be  much  handled,  as  the  bloom  is 
apt  to  be  rubbed  off.  Apricots  are  ready  when  the  side  nes;t  the  sun  feels  a 
little  soft  upon  gentle  pressure  with  the  finger ; they  adhere  firmly  to  the  tree, 
and  would  over-ripen  on  it  and  become  mealy.  Peaches  and  nectarines,  if 
moved  upwards,  and  allowed  to  come  down  with  a slight  jerk^  will  separate, 
if  ready  ; and  they  may  be  received  into  a tin  funnel  lined  with  canton  fiannel, 
so  as  to  avoid  touching  with  the  fingers  or  bruising.  A certain  rule  for  judging 
of  the  ripeness  of  figs  is  to  notice  when  the  small  end  of  the  fruit  becomes  of 
the  same  color  as  the  large  end.  The  most  transparent  grapes  are  the  most  ripe. 
All  the  berries  in  a bunch  never  ripen  equally ; it  is  therefore  proper  to  cut  a- 
way  the  unripe  or  decayed  berries  before  presenting  the  bunches  at  table. 
Autumn  and  winter  pears  are  gathered,  when  dry,  as  they  successively  ripen. 
Immature  fruit  never  keeps  so  well  as  that  which  nearly  approaches  maturity. 
Winter  apples  should  be  left  on  the  trees  till  there  be  danger  of  frost ; they 
are  then  gathered  on  a dry  day. 


Grapes. — They  must  not  be  too  ripe.  Take  off  any  imperfect  grapes  from 
the  bunches.  On  the  bottom  of  a keg  put  a layer  of  bran  that  has  been  well 
dried  in  an  oven  or  in  the  sun,  then  a layer  of  grapes,  with  bran  between 
the  bnnches,  so  that  they  may  not  be  in  contact.  Proceed  in  the  same  way 
with  alternate  layers  of  grapes  and  bran,  till  the  keg  is  full ; then  close  the 
keg  so  that  no  air  can  enter,  or  use  paper,  never  newspapers,  instead  of  bran 
and  cover  all  with  several  folds  of  paper  or  cloth.  Nail  on  the  lid  and  set  in 
a cool  room  where  it  will  not  freeze.  Use  small  boxes  so  as  not  to  disturb 
more  than  wanted  to  use  in  a week  or  so.  Give  each  bunch  plenty  of  room 
so  they  will  not  crowd.  The  grapes  should  be  looked  to  several  times  during 
the  winter.  Should  any  mold  or  decay  remove  them  and  repack  the  good 
ones  again.  A warm  day  is  considered  the  best  time  to  gather  if  you  live 
neath  your  own  “vine  and  fig  tree”  and  some  place  them  in  a cool  shady 
place  for  two  or  three  days,  then  pack  as  above,  and  pasteboard  boxes  can  be 
used.  Others  cut  off  the  end  smoothly  from  the  vine  and  dip  in  melted  seal- 
ing W'ax,  so  that  no  air  can  get  in  or  juice  run  out,  let  stand  a day  to  see  if 
perfectly  sealed,  (if  not  they  will  shrivel  up)  then  pack  in  boxes  as  above, 
with  either  bran,  sawdust  (dry),  cotton  batting  or  paper,  with  the  latter 
sometimes  wrapping  each  bunch  separately  ; or  a barrel  hoop  suspended  from 
the  ceiling  by  three  cords,  from  which  grape  stems  are  hung  by  means  of  wire 
hoqks  attached  to  the  small  end,  sealing  the  other  with  hot  sealing-wax,  each 
stem  free  from  contact  M'ith  its  neighbors,  is  said  to  be  the  best  contrivance 
for  keeping  grapes.  The  imperfect  grapes  must  be  removed,  and  the  room 
must  be  free  from  frost,  and  not  dry  enough  to  wither  them  or  too  moist.  The 
simplest  way  to  keep  grapes  is  to  place  them  in  drawers  holding  about  twenty - 
five  poundr  each,  piling  the  boxes  one  over  another.  A few 
fine  clusters  for  special  table  purposes  may  be  preserved  by 
•cutting  the  bunches  late  in  the  season,  but  in  good  condition 
and  on  a piece  of  the  vine.  Wax  one  end  of  the  stem  and 
put  the  other  through  a cork  into  a vial  of  water  containing 
a layer  of  charcoal ; make  the  cork  around  the  vine  tight 
with  beeswax ; then  place  the  whole  in  a cool  room  with  an 
even  temperature.  The  Chinese  Method  consists  in  cutting  a 
circular  piece  out  of  a ripe  pumpkin  or  goard,  making  an 
aperture  large  enough  to  admit  the  hand.  The  interior  is 
then  completely  cleaned  out,  the  ripe  grapes  are  placed  in- 
side, and  the  cover  rejjlaced  and  pressed  in  firmly.  The 


1080 


THE  CELLAR  AND  ICE-HOUSE. 


pumpkins  are  kept  in  a cool  place — and  the  grapes  will  be  found  to  retain 
their  freshness  for  a very  long  time.  It  is  said  a very  careful  selection  must 
be  made  of  the  pumpkin,  the  common  field  pumpkin,  however  being  well 
adapted  for  the  purpose.  The  cellar  is  not  the  best  place  to  keep  grapes  after 
being  packed,  as  it  is  apt  to  be  somewhat  damp. 


Vegetables. 

Beets  should  be  kept  in  a dark,  dry  place,  where  the  temperature  does 
not  vary,  and  where  neither  light,  warmth,  nor  moisture  are  present  to  in- 
vite germination  or  decay.  A small  quantity  keep  perfectly  stored  away  in 
sand.  Roots  of  all  kinds  may  be  kept  in  same  way. 

Cabbages. — When  the  weather  becomes  frosty,  cut  them  ofi* near  the  head, 
and  carry  them,  with  the  leaves  on,  to  a dry  cellar,  break  ofi*  superfluous 
leaves,  and  pack  into  a light  cask  or  box,  stems  upward,  and  when  nearly  full 
cover  with  loose  leaves ; secure  the  box  with  a lid  against  rats,  or  if  one  has 
the  spare  place  a rod  or  pole  across  the  vegetable  room  near  the  ceiling,  se- 
cure the  cabbages  with  the  roots  on  them  and  tie  them,  heads  downward,  to 
this,  or  nails  can  De  driven  in  the  posts  and  the  cabbages  hung  on  them.  To 
keep  them  in  the  country,  take  up  by  the  roots,  set  closely  together  in  rows, 
up  to  the  head  in  soil,  roots  down  as  they  grew ; drive  in  posts  at  the  corners 
of  the  bed,  and  at  intermediate  points  if  necessary,  higher  on  one  side  than 
the  other ; nail  strips  of  boards  on  the  posts  and  lay  upon  those  old  boards, 
doors,  or  if  nothing  else  is  at  hand,  beanpoles,  and  corn  fodder,  high  enough 
so  that  the  roof  will  be  clear  of  the  cabbages,  and  allow  the  air  to  circulate ; 
close  up  the  sides  with  yard  or  garden  offal  of  any  kind,  and  the  cabbages 
will  keep  fresh  and  green  all  winter,  and  be  accessible  at  all  times.  Exclude 
moisture  but  never  mind  the  frost. 

Celery — keeps  well  buried  in  dry  sand,  and  when  keeping  only  for  a short 
time  cut  off  the  green  tops  when  it  comes  from  market,  and  it  will  not  wilt  so 
soon.  An  hour  before  ready  to  use  some  pack  in  crushed  ice. 

Onions — keep  best  when  spread  over  the  floor  or  on  shelves. 

Parsnips  and  salsify  should  be  left  in  the  ground  all  winter,  unless  the 
climate  is  very  severe,  when  they  may  be  buried  in  a deep  pit  in  the  garden, 
and  not  opened  till  March  or  April. 

To  keep  Parsley  fresh  and  green. — Put  it  in  a strong  boiling  hot  pickle  of 
salt  and  water,  and  keep  for  use.  Hang  up  and  dry  in  bunches,  blossom 
downward,  in  a dry  attic  or  store-room,  for  use  in  soups,  stufiing,  etc. 

Pease. — Shell,  throw  into  boiling  water  with  a little  salt,  boil  five  or  six 
minutes,  drain  in  a colander  and  afterwards  on  a cloth,  until  completely 
dried,  and  place  in  air-tight  bottles.  Some  use  -wide-mouthed  bottles,  not 
quite  filling  them,  pouring  over  fried  mutton  fat  so  as  to  cover  the  pease,  and 
cork  tightly,  securing  the  cork  with  resin  or  sealing  wax.  When  used,  boil 
until  tender,  and  season  with  butter. 

Potatoes — should  be  kept  in  a cool,  dark  place  and  examined  once  ortwice 
a month,  handling  carefully.  Some  place  them  in  heaps  on  cellar  floor,  or 
in  bins,  others  in  barrels  with  sand  in  bottom  and  on  top.  When  old,  and 
likely  to  sprout,  put  them  in  a basket  and  lower  them  into  boiling  water  for 
a minute  or  two,  let  them  dry  and  put  away  in  sacks.  This  destroys  the  germ, 
and  the  potatoes  retain  their  flavor  until  late. 


THE  CELLAR  AND  ICE-HOUSE. 


1081 


Sweet  Potatoes — keep  well  packed  in  dry  forest  leaves,  and  require  a dry, 
warm  atmosphere. 

Squashes. — Keep  in  a dry  place,  as  cool  as  possible  without  freezing. 

Turnips — When  buried  in  deep  earth  they  will  keep  solid  until  March  or 
April,  or  prepare  a bin  or  box  large  enough  to  hold  as  many  as  may  be  re- 
quired for  use,  put  in  the  bottom  a layer  of  fine  earth,  then  a layer  of  turnips, 
then  earth,  and  so  on  till  all  are  in,  then  cover  slightly  with  fine  earth,  and 
the  turnips  will  come  out  as  fresh  as  when  pulled,  even  if  not  taken  out  un- 
til spring. 

Vegetables. — Put  into  a vessel  of  any  kind,  and  then  pour  on  a solution  oi 
3ne  ounce  of  salisyhc  acid  to  four  gallons  of  pure,  soft  cold  water  with  one 
pound  of  salt.  All  Salad  such  as  lettuce,  celery,  etc.,  keep  best 

in  a cool,  dark  place  ; it  is  not  necessary  to  keep  them  in  water ; in  fact  it  is 
undesirable  ; afier  they  are  well  washed  they  should  be  loosely  wrapped  in 
a wet  cloth  and  laid  on  or  near  the  ice  in  a refrigerator ; if  there  is  no  ice  they 
can  be  fairly  well  preserved  by  the  following  method  ; in  a wooden  or  heavy 
pasteboard  "box  lay  a large  towel  entirely  saturated  with  cold  water,  and 
after  the  salad  is  washed  wrap  the  towel  about  it  to  exclude  the  air,  closr 
the  box,  and  keep  it  in  a cool,  dark  place.  Every  night  and  morning  was! 
the  salad ; removing  all  decayed  leaves,  wash  the  towel  in  clean,  cold  wate  f 
without  wringing  it,  and  again  wrap  the  salad  in  it,  and  put  it  away  in  thci 
box.  In  this  way  the  most  delicate  salad  vegetables  may  be  kept  fresh  fo;* 
several  days,  even  in  summer. 

Packing  Vegetables. — For  present  use  they  should  be  laid  a way  carefull;) 
in  a bin  with  a close  lid  (hung  on  hinges)  so  that  the  light  may  be  excluded, 
To  keep  them  for  a long  time  the  best  plan  is  to  pull  them  on  a dry  day,  cul, 
off  the  tops  and  trim,  ami  pack  them  in  clean  barrels  or  boxes,  in  layers  with, 
fine  clean  moss,  such  as  is  found  in  abundance  in  woods,  between  them. 
The  moss  keeps  them  clean  and  sulficiently  moist,  preventing  shriveling  ol 
the  roots  on  the  one  hand,  and  absorbing  any  excess  of  dampness  on  the 
other.  All  vegetables  keep  best  at  as  low  a temperature  as  possible  without 
freezing. 

Cider. — Sweet  cider  may  be  kept  by  adding  one  ounce  salisylic  acid  to  a 
barrel  as  soon  as  possible  after  coming  from  the  press.  The  yeast  will  settle 
in  a few  days ; the  clear  juice  must  be  drawn  off  and  will  remain  sweet  for 
ten  or  twelve  days,  or  if  prefered  can  stand  until  it  is  fermented  to  suit  the 
taste  before  adding  the  salisylic  acid,  and  it  will  keep  just  the  same  as  before 
adding. 

Oatmeal. — Keep  in  air-tight  tin  boxes,  in  which  it  can  often  be  bought; 
these  boxes  contain  from  five  pounds  upward,  and  are  really  the  only  recep- 
tacles in  which  it  can  be  kept  free  from  fermentation,  mold,  or  animal  pests  ; 
the  sweetness  of  the  meal  is  lost  b^  exposure  to  the  air. 


1082 


THE  LAUNDRY. 


THE  EATJISTHHY. 


When  inviting  friends  to  visits  of  a week  or  more,  try  to  fix  the  time  for 
the  visit  to  begin  the  day  after  the  ironing  is  done.  The  girl  feels  a weight 
off  her  mind,  has  the  time  to  cook  the  meals  better,  and  is  a much  more  will- 
ing attendant  upon  guests. 

Do  not  have  beefsteak  for  dinner  on  washing  or  ironing  days — arrange  to 
have  something  roasted  in  the  oven,  or  else  have  cold  meat. 

Do  not  have  fried  or  boiled  fish.  The  smell  sticks,  and  the  clothes  will 
not  be  sweet ; besides  the  broiler  and  frying-pan  take  longer  to  clean. 

As  for  vegetables,  do  not  have  spinach,  pease,  string-beans,  or  apple- 
sauce. All  these  good  things  take  time  to  prepare,  and  can  be  avoided  as  well 
as  not.  Have  baked  white  and  sweet  potatoes,  macaroni,  boiled  rice,  pars- 
nips, sweet  corn,  stewed  tomatoes,  or  any  canned  vegetables  in  winter.  For 
dessert,  baked  apples  and  cream,  bread-pudding,  or  something  easily  pre- 
pared. 

Washing  Day. — Clothing  when  removed  from  the  person,  if  damp,  should 
be  dried  to  prevent  mildew,  and  articles  which  are  to  be  starched  should  be 
mended  before  placing  in  the  clothes-basket.  Monday  is  the  washing  day 

with  all  good  housekeepers. 
Tubs  arranged  as  above  are 
much  nicer  than  separate  tubs, 
as  no  bench  is  necessary,  the 
wringer  is  placed  on  the  divis- 
ion b and  also  on  the  end  wring- 
ing out  the  clothes  directly  into 
the  clothes  basket,  and  the  water 
is  drawn  off  at  the  faucets  p p. 
The  old-fashioned  programme 
for  washing  is  as  follows.  Use  good  soft  water  if  it  can  be  had.  If  not,  soften 
a barrel-full  of  well-water  by  pouring  into  it  water  in  which  half  a peck  or 
more  of  hard  wood  ashes  have  been  boiled,  together  with  the  ashes  them- 
selves. When  enough  has  been  added  to  produce  the  desired  effect,  the 
water  takes  on  a curdled  appearance,  and  soon  settles  perfectly  clear.  If 


THE  LAUNDRY. 


1083 


milky,  more  ashes  and  lye  must  be  added  as  before,  care  being  taken  not  to 
add  more  than  is  necessary  to  clear  the  water,  or  it  will  affect  tlie  hands  un- 
pleasantly. On  the  other  hand,  if  too  little  is  put  in,  the  clothes  will  turn 
yellow.  "Gather  un  all  clothes  which  are  ready  on  Saturday  night,  and  the 
rest  as  they  are  taken  off ; separate  the  fine  from  the  coarse,  and  the  less 
soiled  from  the  dirtier.  Scald  all  table  linen  and  articles  which  have  coffee, 
fruit,  or  other  stains  which  would  be  “set”  by  hot  suds,  by  pouring  over 
them  hot  water  from  the  tea-kettle  and  allowing  them  to  stand  until  cool, 
Have  the  water  in  the  tub  as  warm  as  the  hand  can  bear,  but  not  too  hot. 
(Dirty  clothes  should  never  be  j^ut  into  very  hot  clear  water,  as  it  “sets”  the 
dirt.  Hot  soap-suds,  however,  has  the  opposite  effect,  the  water  expanding 
the  fiber  of  the  fabric,  while  tlie  alkali  of  the  soap  softens  and  removes  the 
dirt.)  AYash  first  one  boiler  full,  taking  the  cleanest  and  finest  through  two 
suds,  then  place  in  a boiler  of  cold  water,  with  soap  enough  to  make  a good 
suds.  A handful  of  borax  to  about  ten  gallons  of  water  helps  to  whiten  the 
clothes  and  is  used  by  many,  especially  by  the  Germans,  who  are  famous 
for  their  snowy  linen.  This  saves  in  soap  nearly  half.  For  laces,  cambrics, 
etc.,  an  extra  quantity  of  the  powder  is  used,  and  for  crinolines  (requiring 
to  be  made  stiff),  a strong  solution  is  necessary.  Borax,  being  a neutra^ 
salt,  does  not  in  the  slightest  degree  injure  the  texture  of  the  linen.  Itj 
effect  is  to  soften  the  hardest  water.  Another  way  to  whiten  clothes  is  h 
throw  a handful  of  tansy  into  the  boiler  in  which  clothes  are  boiling.  1 5 
will  make  the  water  green,  but  will  whiten  the  clothes.  Let  them  boil,  with 
cover  off  boiler,  not  more  than  live  or  ten  minutes,  as  too  long  boiling  “yellows’  ’ 
the  clothes.  (Some  advocate  strongly  no  boiling.)  Remove  to  a tub,  pour 
over  them  cold  water  slightly  blued,  and  turn  all  garments,  pillow-slips^, 
stockings,  etc.,  wrong-side  out.  (If  there  are  more  to  boil,  take  out  part  of 
the  boiling  suds,  add  cold  water,  and  fill  not  too  full  clothes.  Repeat 

until  all  are  boiled.  The  removal  of  part  of  the  suds,  and  filling  up  with 
cold  water,  prevents  the  suds  from  “yellowing”  the  clothes.)  Wash  vigor- 
ously in  this  water  (this  is  called  “sudsing”),  wringing  very  dry  in  hand,  01 
better  with  the  wringer,  as  the  clear  appearance  of  the  clothes  depends 
largely  on  thorough  wringing.  Rinse  in  another  tub  of  soft  water,  washing 
with  the  hands,  not  simply  lifting  them  out  of  the  water  and  then  wringing, 
as  is  practiced  by  some, because  all  suds  must  be  rinsed  out  to  make  them  clear 
and  white.  AVring  and  shake  out  well  and  put  into  water  pretty  well  blued, 
putting  in  one  article  after  another  until  the  first  boilerful  is  all  in.  Stir  up 
occasionally,  as  the  blue  sometimes  settles  to  the  bottom,  and  thus  spots  the 
clothes.  (This  time  well-water  may  be  used  if  soft  water  is  difficult  to  ob- 
tain,! AAAing  out  again  and  for  the  last  time,  placing  the  clothes  which  are 
to  be  starched  in  one  basket,  and  the  rest,  which  may  be  hung  out  im- 
mediately, in  another.  AVhile  the  first  lot  of  clothes  is  boiling,  prepare  the 
second,  take  out  first,  put  second  in  boiler,  and  “suds”  and  rinse  first.  In 
this  way  the  first  is  finished  and  hung  out  while  the  later  lots  are  still  under 
way.  tiave  the  starch  (see  receip'ts)  ready  as  hot  as  the  hand  can  bear,  dip 
the  articles  and  parts  of  articles  which  need  to  be  very  stiff,  first  “clapping” 
the  starch  well  with  the  hands,  especially  in  shirt-bosoms,  wristbands,  and 
collars,  and  then  thin  the  starch  for  other  articles  which  require  less  stiffen- 
ing. AYhen  starched,  hang  out  on  the  line  to  dry,  first  wiping  the  line  with 
a cloth  to  remove  all  dirt  and  stains.  Shake  out  each  article  until  it  is  free- 
from  wrinkles,  and  fasten  securely  on  the  line  (with  the  old-fashioned  si)lit 
clothes-pins),  being  careful  to  hang  sheets  and  table-linen  so  that  the  selv- 
age edges  will  be  even.  The  line  should  be  stretched  in  the  airiest  place  in 
the  yard,  or  in  winter  a large  attic  is  a better  place  for  the  purpose.  (Freez- 
ing injures  starch,  and  for  that  reason  it  is  better  in  winter  to  hang  clothes 
out  unstarched  until  dry,  then  taking  in,  starching  and  drying  indoors.) 
AVhen  dry,  remove  from  line  to  clothes-basket,  place  clothes-pins  as  removed 


1084 


THE  LAUNDRY. 


in  a basket  kept  for  the  purpose,  take  down  and  roll  up  the  line,  remove 
basket,  line,  and  pins  to  the  house,  and  put  the  two  latter  into  their  proper 
places.  The  clothes-line  should  always  be  carefully  put  up  out  of  the  weather 
when  not  in  use.  Wipe  it  carefully  with  a clean  cloth  before  hanging  out 
clothes,  and  always  count  clothes-pins  when  gathering  them  up.  Every 
housekeeper  ought  to  provide  a,  pair  of  mittens  for  hanging  out  clothes,  to  be 
used  for  this  purpose  and  no  other.  Cut  them  from  clean  flannel  (white 
seems  the  most  suitable),  and  line  them  with  another  thickness  of  flannel, 
or  make  them  double,  if  the  flannel  is  thin.  These  should  be  kept  in  a clean 
place  ready  for  this  particular  business,  and  nothing  else.  A good  and  handy 
)lace  to  keep  them  is  the  clothes-pin  bag.  Turn  all  garments  right  side  out 
hake  out  thoroughly  and  sprinkle  (re-starching  shirt-bosoms,  wristbands, 
and  collars  if  necessary). 

Shake  out  night-dresses  and  under-garments  so  as  to  free  them  from 
creases,  and  if  they  are  ruffled  or  embroidered,  dip  them  in  thin  starch,  pull 
out  smoothly,  fold  first,  and  then,  beginning  at  the  top  of  each  garment,  roll 
up,  each  by  itself,  in  a very  tight  roll,  and  place  in  the  basket;  fold  sheets 
without  sprinkling,  having  first  snapped  and  stretched  them,  and  lay  on  the 
rest ; over  all  spread  the  ironing  blanket,  and  let  them  stand  until  next 
morning. 

If  a machine  is  used  in  washing,  it  is  better  to  soak  the  clothes  over  night 
in  warm  soft  water,  soaping  collars  and  wristbands,  and  pieces  most  soiled. 
Have  separate  tubs  for  coarse  and  fine  clothes.  In  soaking  clothes  for  wash- 
ing Monday,  the  water  should  be  prepared  Saturday  night,  and  all  clothes 
which  are  ready  thrown  in,  and  rest  added  when  changed.  If  washing 
fluids  are  used,  the  recipes  which  follow  are  the  best. 

Another  method  is  to  half  fill  tubs  Saturday  night  with  clear,  soft  water, 
warmed  a little  if  convenient,  but  not  too  hot,  made  into  a weak  suds ; in  one 
put  the  finer  articles,  such  as  muslins,  cuffs,  collars,  and  shirts  ; in  another 
put  table-linen ; in  another  bed-linen  ; in  another  the  dish-clothes  and  wiping 
towels  and  in  still  another  the  coarsest  and  most  soiled  articles  ; always  put 
the  most  soiled  articles  of  each  division  at  bottom  of  tub ; cover  all  well  with 
w^ater  and  press  down.  Rub  no  soap  on  spots  or  stains,  as  it  will  ‘ ‘set’  ’ them. 
Of  course,  articles  which  can  not  be  had  on  Saturday  night  are  put  in  the 
next  day  as  they  are  changed.  Monday  morning,  heat  not  very  hot  a boiler 
full  of  clean  soft  water,  add  to  it  water  in  which  soap  was  dissolved  Satur- 
day night  by  pouring  hot  water  over  it,  and  stir  it  thoroughly ; drain  off  the 
water  in  which  the  clothes  were  soaked  after  shaking  them  up  and  down 
vigorously  in  it,  pressing  them  against  the  sides  of  the  tub  to  get  out  all  the 
water  possible.  Then  pour  over  them  the  warm  suds,  and  wash  out  as  be- 
fore described,  washing  each  class  separately.  If  found  impracticable  to 
make  so  many  divisions,  separate  the  coarse  and  fine,  and  the  least  soiled 
and  the  dirtiest. 

In  the  summer,  clothes  may  be  washed  without  any  fire  by  soaking  over- 
night in  soapy  soft  water,  rubbing  out  in  the* morning,  soaping  the  dirty  places, 
and  laying  them  in  the  hot  sunshine.  By  the  time  the  last  are  spread  out  to 
bleach,  the  first  may  be  taken  up,  washed  out  and  rinsed.  This,  of  course, 
’equires  a clean  lawn. 

Ironing  Day. — Iron  day  after  washing  beginning  with  the  sheets  (which, 
as  well  as  the  table  linen,  must  be  folded  neatly  and  carefully,  so  that  the 
selvage  edges  will  exactly  come  together.  Or,  another  way  to  fold  and  iron 
a sheet  is  to  bring  bottom  over  top,  then  bring  back  bottom  edge  to  edge  of 
middle  fold,  leaving  top  edge  ; iron  the  upper  surface,  then  turn  the  whole 
sheet  over,  fold  the  top  edge  back  to  the  middle  edge,  and  again  iron  upper 
surface  ; this  leaves  the  sheet  folded  in  four  thicknesses  ; now  bring  the  selv- 
age edges  together  and  iron  the  upper  surface,  and  the  sheet  is  done),  and 


THE  LAUNDRY. 


1085 


taking  shirts  next,  cooling  the  iron  when  too  hot  on  the  coarse  towels.  In 
ironing  shirts  a bosom  hoard  is  almost  indispensable,  and  an  ironing-board  is 
a great  convenience  for  all  articles.  The  former  is  a hard  board  an  incii 
thick,  eighteen  inches  long,  and  eight  wide,  covered  with  two  thicknesses  of 
woolen  blanket  stuff,  overlaid  with  two  more  of  cotton  cloth.  The  cloth  is 
w'rapped  over  the  sides  and  ends  of  the  board  and  tacked  on  the  back  side, 
leaving  the  face  plain  and  smooth.  The  ironing-board  is  covered  in  the  same 
way,  but  is  five  feet  long,  two  feet  wide  at  one  end,  and  narrowed  down  with 
a rounded  taper  from  full  width  at  the  middle  to  seven  inches  at  the  other 
end,  and  the  corners  rounded.  This  board  may  be  of  any  well-seasoned 
wood  which  will  not  warp,  and  should  be  about  one  inch  thick  ; on  this  ah 
tlie  clothes  are  conveniently  ironed.  Always  use  cotton  holders  for  the  irons. 
Woolen  ones  are  hot  to  the  hand,  and  if  scorched,  as  they  often  are,  the 
smell  is  disagreeable.  In  ironing  a shirt  or  a dress,  turn  the  sleeves  on  the 
wrong  side,  and  leave  them  until  the  rest  is  done,  and  then  turn  and  iron 
them.  In  this  way  the  bosoms  are  less  likely  to  become  rumpled.  Pull 
muslin  and  lace  out  carefully,  iron  it  over  once,  and  then  pull  into  shape, 
pick  out  the  embroidery  and  proceed  with  greater  care  than  before.  Em- 
broideries should  be  ironed  on  the  wrong  side  over  flannel.  Always  have 
near  a dish  of  clean  cold  water,  so  that  any  spot  which  has  been  imperfectly 
ironed  may  be  easily  wet  with  a soft  sponge  or  piece  of  linen,  and  ironed 
over  again,  or  any  surplus  bit  of  starch  removed.  As  fast  as  articles  are  fin- 
ished, they  should  be  hung  on  the  clothes-dryer  until  thoroughly  dry,  especial 
care  being  taken  with  those  which  are  starched  stiff,  as  they  retain  the 
starch  much  better  if  dried  quicJdy.  Thorough  airing  is  necessary,  twenty- 
four  hours  being  none  too  much. 


Laundry  Lots. 

Bluing. — Use  the  best  indigo  tied  in  a strong  bag  made  of  drilling. 

Flat  Irons  from  Scorching. — Wipe  them  on  a cloth  wet  with  kerosene. 

Gray  and  Brown  Linens. — Wash  in  cold  water,  with  a little  black  pepper 
in  it,  and  they  will  not  fade. 

To  Clean  Alpaca — Sponge  with  strained  coffee.  Iron  on  the  wrong  side  - 
having  black  cambric  under  the  goods. 

To  Cleanse  Articles  made  of  White  Zephyr. — Pub  in  flour  of  magnesia, 
changing  often.  Shake  off  flour  and  hang  in  the  open  air  a short  time. 

To  Clean  Irons. — Sprinkle  a little  water  on  the  stove  when  cold,  set  the 
irons  on  the  wet  part,  let  them  stand  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes,  then  scrape 
and  rub  with  a rag. 

‘ Ribbed  Polisher. — The  ribbed  polisher,  for  polishing  shirt  bosoms,  cellars, 
cuffs,  etc.,  is  said  to  surpass  the  smooth-faced  irons  in  the  ease  with  '.yhich 
it  gives  the  fine  and  much  desired  gloss  to  laundry  linen. 

Take  out  Machine  Oil. — Rub  with  a little  lard  or  butter  and  wash  in 
warm  water  and  soap,  or,  simply  rub  first  with  a little  soap  and  wash  out  in 
cold  water. 

To  Stiffen  Linen  Cuffs  and  Collars. — Add  a small  piece  of  white  wax  and 
one  teaspoon  brandy  to  a pint  of  fine  starch.  In  ironing,  if  the  iron  sticks, 
soap  the  bottom  of  it. 


1086 


THE  LAUNDRY. 


In  Washing  Children's  Stockings,  wooden  stocking 
forms  are  a great  help  on  which  to  dry  them.  Obtain 
them  at  the  furnishing  store,  or  have  them  made  without 
much  expense. 

To  Clean  Wash  Boilers. — Wash,  when  a little  rusty, 
with  sweet  milk  ; or  grease  with  lard.  A better  plan  is  to 
prevent  rust  by  thoroughly  drying  boiler,  as  well  as  tubs, 
before  putting  away  for  the  week. 

To  Take  out  Paint. — Equal  parts  of  ammonia  ana  sjDir" 
its  of  turpentine.  Saturate  the  spot  two  or  three  times 
and  then  wash  out  in  soap-suds. 

To  Restore  Velvet. — When  velvet  gets  crushed  from  pressure,  hold  the 
parts  over  a basin  of  hot  water,  with  the  lining  of  the  dress  next  the  water. 
The  pile  will  soon  rise  and  assume  its  original  beauty. 

Paint  on  Clothing. — Remove  by  using  equal  parts  of  turpentine  and  spir- 
its of  ammonia.  Saturate  the  spot  with  the  liquid  two  or  three  times  until 
the  paint  is  soft  and  then  wash  out  with  soap. 

Spots. — In  cloth  or  calico,  produced  by  an  acid,  may  be  removed  by 
touching  the  spot  with  spirits  of  hartshorn.  Spots  produced  by  an  alkali 
may  be  removed  by  moistening  them  with  vinegar  or  tartaric  acid. 

To  Prevent  Blue  from  Fading. — To  prevent  blue  from  fading,  put  an 
ounce  of  sugar  of  lead  into  a paii  of  water,  soak  the  material  in  the  solution 
for  two  hours,  and  let  dry  before  being  washed  and  ironed ; good  for  all 
shades  of  blue. 

To  take  out  Mildew. — AVet  the  cloth  and  rub  on  soap  and  chalk,  mixed 
together,  and  lay  in  the  sun ; or  lay  the  cloth  in  buttermilk  for  a short  time, 
take  out  and  place  in  the  hot  sun;  or  put  lemon  juice  on,  and  treat  in  the 
same  way. 

For  Wasning  Red  Table  Linen,  use  tepid  water,  with  a little  powdered 
borax,  wdiich  serves  to  set  the  color ; wash  the  linen  separately  and  quickly, 
using  very  little  soap,  rinse  in  tepid  water,  containing  a little  boiled  starch ; 
hang  to  dry  in  the  shade,  and  iron  when  almost  dry. 

To  Clean  Alpaca. — Put  goods  in  a boiler  half  full  of  cold  rain-water,  and 
let  boil  three  minutes.  Have  ready  a pail  of  indigo-water  (very  dark  with 
indigo),  place  goods  in  it,  aider  wringing  out  of  boiling  w^'^er,  let  remain  one 
half  an  hour,  then  wring  out  and  iron  Avhile  damp. 

How  to  Clean  Velvet. — Invert  a hot  flat-iron,  xdace  over  it  a single  thick- 
ness of  wet  cotton  cloth,  lay  on  this  the  velvet,  wrong  side  next  the  wet 
cloth,  rub  gently  with  a dry  cloth  until  the  j^ile  is  well  raised ; take  off  the 
iron,  lay  on  a table,  and  brush  it  with  a soft  brush  or  cloth. 

To  take  Grease  out  of  Silks,  Woolens , Paper , Floors,  Etc. — Grate  thick 
over  the  spot  French  (or  common  will  do)  chalk,  cover  with  brown  paper, 
set  on  it  a hot  flat-iron,  and  let  it  remain  until  cool ; repeat  if  necessary.  The 
iron  must  not  be  so  hot  as  to  burn  paper  or  cloth. 

Substitute  for  Washing-Soda — A German  scientific  journal  recommends 
laundresses  to  use  hyposulphite  of  soda  in  place  of  common  washing-soda. 
It  does  not  attack  the  fabric  in  any  way,  and  at  the  same  time  exerts  some 
bleaching  actions  which  greatly  improve  the  appearance  of  linen  and  calicoes. 


THE  LAUNDRY. 


1087 


Flat  Iron. — The  cut  represents  a very  good  form  of 
flat  iron.  The  peculiar  form  of  the  handle  makes  it  con- 
venient and  easy  to  the  hand,  while  the  width  of  the 
guard  wards  off  the  heat  more  than  in  the  common  form. 

Silver  Polish  for  Shirts, — One  ounce  each  of  isin- 
glass and  borax,  one  teaspoon  white  glue,  two  teaspoons 
white  of  an  egg.  Cook  well  in  two  quarts  fine  starch. 

Starch  in  this  and  dry.  Before  ironing,  apply  some  of  it 
to  the  bosom  and  cuffs  with  a cloth  till  well  dampened. 

Iron  at  once  with  a hot  glossing  iron. 

To  TUas/i  Chamois-Skin. — Use  a week  solution  of  soda  and  warm  water ; 
rub  plenty  of  soft  soap  into  the  leather ; let  it  lie  in  the  water  two  or  three 
hours  ; then  rub  it  clean.  Rinse  well  in  a weak  solution  of  soda,  warm  water 
and  yellow  soap  ; (rinsing  in  water  only  would  make  it  stiff  and  hard) ; wring- 
in  a rough  towel ; dry  quickly ; then  pull  about  and  brush  it  well.  It  will  be 
soft  and  new. 

To  Preserve  Colors  in  Washing. — Black  calicoes  should  be  washed  in 
water  in  which  potatoes  have  been  boiled,  and  should  not  starched.  A little 
vinegar  in  the  water  of  pink,  red  and  green  calicoes  is  good  to  brighten  the 
colors ; rinsing  black,  blue  and  green  colors  in  salt,  and  water  will  also  set 
the  colors.  Wash  worsteds  in  water  with  beef’s  gall  and  they  will  not  fade  ; 
no  soap  is  necessary,  but  if  used,  wash  in  the  gall  first. 

Milk  as  a Washing  Agent. — A good  way  to  wash  black  calico  and  lawn 
dresses  is  this  : First  wash  thoroughly  in  sweet  milk,  using  no  soap  or  any- 
thing else  ; then  rinse  in  sweet  milk,  in  which  considerable  bluing  has  been 
dissolved.  Turn  wrong  side  out,  and  hang  up  to  dry  in  a shady  place  in 
summer  and  indoors  in  winter.  No  starch  is  needed.  Dampen  and  iron  on 
the  wrong  side. 

Wash  Bench. — No  kitchen  is  complete  without  a long  bench,  two  and  a 
half  feet  wide,  and  of  a proper  height  for  comfort  in  washing,  on  which  there 
is  room  for  two  or  three  tubs  on  washing  days.  Of  course,  a wringer  is  a 
necessity,  and  it  is  always  best  to  get  a good  one.  A cheap  wringer  soon  be- 
comes worthless.  The  rollers  twist  off,  and  it  goes  to  pieces  generally, 
while  a good  one,  properly  taken  care  of,  lasts  a long  time.  Washing  ma- 
chines are  more  doubtful,  but  there  are  a few  worthy  of  a place  in  the  kitchen, 
especially  where  the  women  folks  are  not  strong. 

Polishing  Iron. — The  beautiful  polish  that  is  seen  on 
new  shirts  and  collars  or  on  those  washed  and  ironed  at 
laundries,  is  due  chiefly  to  hard  work  and  a good  polish- 
ing iron.  The  recipes  given  for  polish  will  not  produce 
the  effect  without  the  hard  rubbing  with  a proper  iron. 
A good  form  is  represented  in  the  cut.  No  housekeeper 
who  wants  her  husband’s  linen  to  do  her  honor  can  af- 
ford to  be  without  one  in  some  form,  as  the  cost  is 
trifling. 

Washing  Feathers. — First  put  them  into  hot  suds,  let  stand  until  cooi 
enough  for  the  hands.  Wash  out  and  put  through  the  wringer  (bunching 
them  up).  Then  rinse  them  in  warm  water,  wring  out  and  put  into  flour 
sacks.  They  are  very  nice,  white,  light,  and  clean. 

Bosom  Board. — A board  twenty  inches  long,  and  ten  or  twelve  inches 
wide.  The  shirt  is  slipped  over  it  and  buttoned  at  the  neck;  the  other  end 
of  the  board  is  a strip  about  an  incli  wide,  fasfened  to  the  board  by  an  arm 


Polishiug  Iron, 


Flat  Iron. 


1088 


THE  LAUNDRY. 


at  each  end,  running  along  the  sides  of  the  board.  This  strip  is  pushed 
down,  one  “flap”  of  the  shirt  drawn  through  between  it  and  the  end  of  the 
board,  and  then  it  is  raised  up  so  that  its  surface  is  again  on  a level  with  the 
board.  It  thus  holds  the  shirt  firmly  in  position  while  it  is  being  ironed  and 
polished. 

Washmg  Flannels. — Before  washing  flannels  shake  out  dust  and  dirt  and 
lint ; use  soft,  clean,  cold  water,  in  winter  merely  taking  the  chill  oS.  Let 
the  hard  soap  lie  in  water,  but  do  not  apply  it  to  the  clothes.  Wash  the 
white  pieces  first,  throw  articles  as  fast  as  washed  into  blued  cold  water,  let 
them  stand  twenty  or  thirty  minutes,  wash  them  through  this  water  after 
dissolving  a little  soap  in  it,  wring  hard,  shake,  and  hang  up.  Wash  colored 
flannels  in  the  same  way  (but  not  in  water  used  for  white,  or  they  will  gather 
the  lint),  and  rinse  in  several  waters  if  inclined  to  “run.”  When  very  dirty, 
all  flannels  should  soak  longer,  and  a little  borax  well  dissolved  should  be 
added  to  the  water,  but  the  great  secret  of  success  is  to  “wash  quickly,  rinse 
quickly  and  dr}'  quickly.” 


Iro7iing  Board. — A very  handy  board  for  ironing 
dresses,  shirts  and  in  fact  garments  of  all  descriptions, 
can  be  made  by  any  one  who  can  handle  a saw,  plane 
and  square.  The  illustration  shows  how  the  board  is 
notched  near  the  ends  to  allow  of  the  tips  of  the  chairs 
passing  through . Place  the  clothes’  basket  on  one  of 
the  chairs. 

Extract  of  Soap. — The  full  title  of  wliicn  is  “con- 
centrated extract  of  soap.”  To  those  unacquainted  with 
its  properties,  price,  and  form,  we  may  add  that  it  is  a 
powder,  is  sold  in  convenient  34^  packages,  and  should 
be  kept  in  a dry  place.  For  house  cleaning  it  has  no 
equal  as  yet,  and  for  washing  all  kinds  of  clothes  it  is 
suitable  and  available, 
is  cheap. 


Ironing  i>oard. 

It  has  another,  and  by  no  means  trivial  merit. 


To  Clean  Black  Lace. — Take  the  lace  and  wdpe  off  all  the  dust  carefuiiy, 
wdth  a cambric  handkerchief.  Then  pin  it  out  on  a board,  inserting  a pin  to 
each  projecting  point  of  the  lace.  Spot  it  all  over  with  table-beer,  and  do  not 
remove  the  pins  until  it  is  perfectly  dry.  It  will  look  quite  fresh  and  new. 


To  Make  Soap  to  do  away  with  Rubbing. — Dissolve  five  bars  of  soap  in  four 
gallons  soft  water,  onti  and  three-fourths  pounds  sal-soda,  and  three-fourths 
pound  borax  ; stir  w'hile  cooling.  Use  one  cupful  to  make  suds  to  soak  clothes 
in ; wring  out  and  put  into  boiler ; use  same  quantity  of  soap  for  boiling  them. 

Enamel  for  Shirt  Bosoms. — Melt  together  with  a gentle  heat,  one  ounce 
white  wax  and  two  ounces  spermaceti ; prepare  in  the  usual  way  a sufficient 
quantity  of  starch  for  a dozen  bosoms,  put  into  it  a piece  of  this  enamel  the 
size  of  a hazel-nut,  and  in  proportion  for  a large  number.  This  wdll  give 
clothes  a beautiful  polish. 

To  Rernove  the  Color  from  Buff  Calico. — If  some  kinds  of  buff*  calico  are 
dipped  in  strong  soda  water,  the  color  will  be  removed  and  the  figures  of 
other  colors  remain  on  a white  ground.  This  is  valuable  sometimes,  as  bufiT 
calico  spots  easily.  If  pink  calico  be  dipped  in  vinegar  and  w'ater  after  rins- 
ing, the  color  will  be  brighter. 

To  Remove  the  Stains  of  Nitrate  of  Silver — from  the  flesh,  or  white  goods  of 
any  kind,  dissolve  iodine  in  alcohol,  and  apply  to  the  stain  ; then  take  apiece 


THE  LAUNDRY. 


1089 


of  cyanide  potassium,  size  of  a hickory-nut,  wet  in  water,  rub  on  the  spot, 
and  the  stain  will  immediately  disappear ; then  wash  the  goods  or  hands  in 
cold  water. 

Mother's  Hard-times  Soap. — Take  all  the  bits  of  soap  that  are  too  small 
to  be  longer  used,  shave  down,  and  let  soak  in  soft  water  enough  to  cover 
them  over  night ; in  the  morning  add  more  soft  soap,  and  boil  until  thoroughly 
melted  and  of  the  consistency  of  taffy  ;•  pour  into  moulds,  and  you  have  a 
nice  cake  of  soap. 

Coffee  Starch. — Make  a paste  of  two  table-spoons  best  starch  and  cold- 
water  ; when  smooth  stir  in  a pint  of  perfectly  clear  coffee  (made  by  pouring 
boiling  water  on  the  grounds  left  from  breakfast  and  straining)  boiling  hot ; 
boil  five  or  ten  minutes,  stir  with  a spermaceti  or  wax  candle,  strain,  and  use 
for  all  dark  calicoes,  percales,  and  muslins. 

To  Remove  Iron-Rust. — While  rinsing  clothes,  take  such  as  have  spots  of 
rust,  wring  out,  dip  a wet  finger  in  oxalic  acid,  and  rub  on  the  spot,  then  dip 
in  salt  and  rub  on,  and  hold  on  a warm  flatiron,  or  on  the  tin  or  copper  tea- 
kettle if  it  have  hot  water  in  it,  and  the  spot  will  immediately  disappear  • 
rinse  again,  rubbing  the  place  a little  with  the  hands. 

Erosive  Fluid. — lor  the  removal  of  spots  on  furniture,  cloth,  silks,  an  f 
other  fabrics,  when  the  color  ite  not  drawn,  without  injury.  One  ounce  castil  s 
soap,  four  of  aqua  ammonia,  one  of  glycerine,  and  one  of  spirits  of  wine  ; dig  - 
solve  the  soap  in  two  quarts  soft  water,  add  the  other  ingredients,  apply  wit!  i 
a soft  sponge,  and  rub  out. 

To  Clean  White  Satin,  and  Flowered  Silks. — Mix  sifted  stale  bread  crumb  i 
with  powder  blue,  and  rub  it  thoroughly  all  over,  then  shake  it  well  and 
dust  it  well  with  clean,  soft  cloths.  Afterwards  where  there  are  any  gold  o r 
silver  flowers,  take  a piece  of  crimson  ingrain  velvet,  and  rub  the  flow^er? 
with  it,  which  will  restore  them  to  their  original  luster. 

For  Washing  Goods  that  Fade,  use  crude  ammonia  instead  of  soap.  Soiled 
neckties  may  be  made  to  look  like  new  by  taking  one-half  a teaspoon  of  spirits 
of  hartshorn  to  a tea-cup  of  water;  wash  well,  and,  if  very  much  soiled,  put 
through  a second  water,  with  less  ammonia  in.  Lay  it  on  a clean,  white 
cloth,  and  gently  wipe  with  another  until  dry. 

To  Clean  Silk  and  Woolen  Dress  Goods. — Any  silk  or  woolen  goods  may  be 
washed  in  gasoline,  rubbing  as  if  in  water,  without  injury.  The  dirt  is  quick- 
ly and  easily  removed,  but  no  change  takes  place  in  the  color  of  the  fabric. 
Great  care  muH  he  taken  not  to  use  the  gasoline  near  a stove  or  light,  as  there  is 
a gas  arising  from  it  wdiich  is  very  inflammable,  and  might  take  fire  from  a 
lamp  set  a foot  or  two  distant. 

To  Wash  Cashmere. — Make  a strong  tea  from  soap  bark  and  soft  water 
and  add  to  water  in  which  dress  is  to  be  washed  till  it  is  ‘/soapy’’ ; then  wash, 
rinse  well  and  let  dry,  being  careful  to  iron  it  when  it  is  yet  slightly  damp, 
iron  on  the  wrong  side.  Soap  bark  tea  is  nice  for  all  woolens.  For  a com- 
mon dress  the  bark  can  be  put  right  in  the  water  in  which  you  wash  it,  but 
it  is  not  so  nice. 

In  Washing  the  Dish- Wipers,  do  not  boil  them  with  the  fine  white  dresses, 
shirts,  table-cloths,  sheets,  pillov/-cases,  napkins  or  fine  towels,  but  be  as 
particular  to  have  the  suds  nice  and  clean.  It  is  better  to  remove  a part  of 
the  suds,  and  add  clean  cold  water,  so  that  the  wipers  will  not  become  yellow 
by  boiling  in  too  strong  a suds.  On  each  wash-day  wash  thoroughly  all  that 
have  been  used  the  previous  week. 


69 


1090 


THE  LAUNDRY. 


Silk  and  Thread  Gloves  are  best  Washed  by  placing  them  on  the  hands, 
and  washing  in  borax  water  or  white  castile  soap-suds,  the  same  as  if  wash- 
ing the  hands  ; rinse  under  a stream  of  water,  and  dry  with  a towel ; keep  the 
gloves  on  until  they  are  about  half  dried,  take  off  carefully,  and  fold  them  up 
so  that  they  will  look  as  nearly  like  what  they  were  when  new'  as  possible, 
and  lay  betw'een  tow'els  under  a w'eight. 

To  Clean  Ribbons. — Dissolve  white  soap  in  boiling  water;  when  cool 
enough  to  bear  the  hand,  pass  the  ribbons  through  it,  rubbing  gently  so  as 
not  to  injure  the  texture  : rinse  through  lukewarm  w^ater,  and  pin  on  a board 
to  dry.  If  the  colors  are  bright  yellow,  maroon,  crimson,  or  scarlet,  add  a 
few  drops  of  oil  of  vitriol  to  the  rinse- water  ; if  the  color  is  bright  scarlet,  add 
to  the  rinse- v/ater  a few'  drops  of  muriate  of  tin. 

Brown  Linen — May  be  kept  looking  new  until  w'orn  out  if  alw'ays  w'ashed 
in  starch- w^ater  and  hay  tea.  Make  hour  starch  in  the  ordinary  w^ay.  For 
one  dress  put  on  the  stove  a common  sized  milk  pan  full  of  timothy  hay,  pour 
on  w'ater,  cover,  and  boil  until  the  wmter  is  of  a dark  green  color,  then  turn 
into  the  starch,  let  the  goods  soak  in  it  a few  minutes,  and  wash  w'ithout  soap  ; 
the  starch  w'ill  clean  the  fabric  and  no  rinsing  is  necessary. 

To  Wash  Colored  Muslin. — AVash  in  w'arm,  not  hot,  suds,  made  with  soft 
W'ater  and  best  white  soap,  if  it  is  to  be  had.  Do  not  soak  them,  and  wash 
only  one  thing  at  a time.  Change  the  suds  as  soon  as  it  looks  dingy,  and  put 
the  garments  at  once  into  fresh  suds  Rinse  first  in  clear  water,  then  in 
slightly  blued.  Squeeze  quite  dry,  but  don't the  dress  Hang  in  a shady 
place  where  the  sunshine  w'ill  not  strike  it,  as  that  fades  all  colors. 

To  Wash  Thread  Lace. — Cover  a bottle  with  w'hite  flannel,  baste  the  lace 
carefully  on  the  flannel,  and  rub  with  white  soap ; place  the  bottle  in  a jar 
filled  w'ith  W'arm  suds,  let  remain  two  or  three  days,  changing  the  water  sev- 
eral times,  and  boil  with  the  finest  white  clothes  on  w'ashing  day ; v/hen 
cooled  a little,  rinse  several  times  in  plenty  of  cold  water,  w'rap  a soft,  dry 
tow'el  around  it,  and  place  it  in  the  sun ; when  dry,  unw'ind,  but  do  not  starch. 

Black  Print  or  Percale  Dresses,  that  have  figures  of  w'hite  in  them,  may  be 
washed  nicely  by  putting  them  in  the  “boiling  suds,"  after  the  other  clothes 
have  all  been  removed,  and  boiling  for  ten  minutes  ; cool  the  suds,  rub  out 
quickly,  rinse  in  lukewarm  w'ater,  then  in  very  blue  cold  water,  and  starch 
in  coffee  starch.  After  the  dress  is  dried,  it  is  to  be  dipped  into  cold  w'ater, 
passed  through  the  w'ringer,  rolled  in  a coarse  tow'el  or  sheet  and  left  for  a 
couple  of  hours,  then  ironed  on  the  wrong  side. 

A Polishing  Iron. — Many  housew'ives  wonder  why  they  cannot  give  to 
shirt  collars,  bosoms  and  cuflfs,  the  fine  glossy  surface  that  the  laundress 
puts  on.  This  polish  is  due  not  so  much  to  any  prepara- 
tion of  the  starch,  as  vigorous  rubbing  with  an  iron  made 
for  the  purpose  and  shaped  like  the  one  in  the  cut.  It  is 
somew'hat  like  a common  flat-iron,  but  has  no  sharp  cor- 
ners or  edges,  and  has  a brightly  polished  steel  face.  Af- 
ter the  bosom  or  collar  has  been  starched  and  ironed  a 
damp  cloth  is  passed  over  them  and  then  the  polisher  is 
applied,  bearing  on  hard  and  rubbing  the  surface  rapidly. 

A Washing  Fluid. — The  w'ashing  fluid  made  by  the'fol- 
low'ing  rule  is  invaluable  in  cleaning  wmolen  goods,  in 
washing  w'oolen  tidies,  or  worsted  goods  of  any  kind: 
One-half  bar  of  Babbitt’s  or  Bell’s  soap,  one  ounce  saltpetre,  one  ounce  bo- 
rax, four  quarts  soft  water.  Disol ve  all  together  over  a fire  ; w'hen  half  cold. 


Poli.dll u 2 iron. 


THE  LAUNDRY. 


1091 


add  five  ounces  spirits  of  ammonia.  The  compound  may  be  bottled  and  is 
good  for  an  indefinite  length  of  time.  It  is  used  just  as  you  would  use  soft 
soap. 

To  ‘^Do  Up”  Black  Silk. — Boil  an  old  kid  glove  (cut  up  in  shreds)  in  a 
pint  of  water  till  the  water  is  reduced  to  a half  pint ; then  sponge  the  silk  with 
it ; fold  it  down  tight,  and  ten  minutes  after,  iron  it  on  the  wrong  side  while 
wet.  The  silk  will  retain  its  softness  and  luster,  and  at  the  same  time,  have 
the  ‘‘body”  of  new  silk. 

Or  rip  up  and  brush  thoroughly,  then  sponge  in  ammonia  water,  and  pin 
out  perfectly  straight,  each  width  or  piece  where  the  sun  will  shine  on  it, 
and  let  dry. 

Pocket  for  Clothes-pins. — A great  convenience  is  the  apron  pocket  for 
clothes  pins.  It  takes  nearly  one  yard  to  make  it,  the  apron  or  pouch  being 
fifteen  inches  in  length,  and  nearly  as  wide.  Bound  the  corners  at  the  bot- 
tom. At  the  top,  on  each  side  of  the  front,  two  inches  from  the  middle,  cut 
out  a strip  nine  inches  long,  and  one  and  one-half  inches  wide  for  pockets. 
Bind  them  with  lighter  colored  fabric  than  the  apron,  that  they  may  be 
readily  seen.  Gather  into  a band  and  button  at  the  back,  or  put  on  strings 
and  tie. 

How  to  JVash  Blankets. — All  that  is  necessary  is  abundance  of  soft  water^ 
and  soap  without  resin  in  it.  Resin  hardens  the  fibers  of  wool,  and  shouhl 
never  be  used  in  washing  any  kind  of  flannel  goods.  Blankets  treated  as  a- 
hove  will  always  come  out  clean  and  soft.  A little  blueing  may  be  used  in 
washing  white  blankets.  They  should  be  shaken  and  snapped  until  almost 
dry ; it  will  require  two  persons  to  handle  them.  Woolen  shawls,  and  all 
woolen  articles,  especially  men’s  wear,  are  much  improved  by  being  pressed 
with  a hot  iron  under  damp  muslin. 

Gall  Soap. — For  washing  woolens,  silks,  or  fine  prints  liable  to  fade: 
One  pint  beef’s  gall,  two  pounds  common  bar  soap  cut  fine,  one  quart  boiling 
soft  water ; boil  slowly,  stirring  occasionally  until  well  mixed  ; pour  into  a 
fiat  vessel,  and  when  cold  cut  into  pieces  to  dry  ; or  a more  simple  way  of 
using  gall,  is  to  get  a pint  bottle  filled  with  fresh  beef’s  gall  at  the  butchers, 
cork  tightly,  add  to  the  water  when  washing  any  material  that  is  liable  to 
fade ; using  more  if  articles  are  very  liable  to  fade,  and  less  if  the  liability  is 
not  great.  When  the  bottle  is  empty  or  grows  stale,  get  fresh. 

Silk  Underwear. — Make  a suds  of  castile  soap  and  let  them  soak  an  hour 
or  two,  then  add  warm  water  till  the  whole  is  luke-warm  and  wash  and  rinse 
in  same  temperature  of  water.  When  dry  do  not  sprinkle,  but  iron  by  plac- 
ing over  them  a muslin  cloth  wet  in  water  and  over  that  a dry  cloth.  It  is  well 
to  keep  cloths  just  for  this  purpose. 

Buckeye  Cleaning  Mixture. — One  fourth  cake  Ivory  soap  dissolved  in  one 
quart  rain  water,  one  ounce  each  soda,  borax  and  ether.  Dissolve  soap  in 
water  and  add  the  salsoda  and  borax  ; then  when  dissolved  add  gallon  rain 
wmter,  after  taking  ofiF  stove  put  in  ether.  Use  with  scrub-brush  for  carpets, 
etc.,  and  with  sponge  for  fabrics,  sponging  off  with  clean  water  afterward. 

To  Wash  Delicate  Colored  Muslins. — Boil  wheat  bran  (about  two  quarts  to 
a dress)  in  soft  water  half  an  hour,  let  it  cool,  strain  the  liquor,  and  use  it 
instead  of  soap-suds ; it  removes  dirt  like  soap,  keeps  the  color,  and  the 
clothes  only  need  rinsing  in  one  water,  and  even  starching  is  unnecessary. 
3uds  and  rinsewater  for  colored  articles  should  be  used  as  cold  as  possible. 
Another  way  is  to  make  thick  corn  meal  mnsh,  well  salted,  and  use  instead 
of  soap ; rinse  in  one  or  two  waters,  and  do  not  starch. 


1092 


THE  LAUNDRY. 


To  Wash  a Silk  Dress. — To  wash  a silk  dress  with  gall  soap,  rip  apart  and 
shake  off  the  dust ; have  ready  two  tubs  warm  soft  water,  make  a suds  of  the 
soap  in  one  tub,  and  use  the  other  for  rinsing ; w'ash  the  silk,  one  piece  at  a 
time,  in  the  suds,  wring  gently,  rinse,  again  wring,  shake  out,  and  iron  with 
a hot  iron  on  what  you  intend  to  be  the  wrong  side.  Thus  proceed  with  each 
piece,  and  when  about  half  done,  throw  out  the  suds  and  make  suds  of  the 
rinsing  water,  using  fresh  water  for  rinsing. 

To  Take  Out  Scorch. — If  a shirt-bosom,  or  any  other  article  has  been 
scorched  in  ironing,  lay  it  where  bright  sunshine  will  fall  directly  on  it.  Peel 
and  slice  two  onions,  extract  the  juice  by  pounding  and  squeezing ; or  cut  up 
naif  an  ounce  of  fine  white  soap,  and  add  to  the  juice  ; two  ounces  of  fuller’s 
earth  and  half  pint  of  vinegar.  Boil  all  together.  When  cool  spread  over 
the  scorched  linen,  and  let  dry  on  ; then  wash  and  boil  out  the  linen,  and  the 
spots  will  disappear  unless  burned  so  badly  as  to  break  the  threads . 

Fruit  Stains. — Colored  cottons  or  wmolens  stained  with  wdne  or  fruit 
should  be  wet  in  alcohol  and  ammonia,  then  sponged  off  gently  (not  rubbed) 
with  alcohol ; after  that  if  the  material  will  warrant  it,  washed  in  tepid  soap- 
suds. Where  white  are  used  the  stains  may  be  easily  removed  by  using 
boiling  water  before  the  stains  are  soaped  or  wetted;  pour  it  on  until  they 
mostly  disappear,  and  then  let  goods  stand  in  it  covered  till  cold.  Peaches, 
some  kinds  of  pears,  and  sweet  apples  make  the  worst  stains ; and  if  boiling 
water  is  not  sufficient,  a little  javelle  water  may  be  used  and,  if  skillfully 
managed,  will  not  need  to  be  used  often.  Silks  may  be  wet  with  this  prep- 
aration when  injured  by  these  stains. 

The  Use  of  Turpentine  in  Washing. — Turpentine  should  never  be  used 
when  washing  is  done  with  the  hands,  as  it  is  very  injurious  to  the  health ; 
but  when  the  clothes  are  pounded  in  a barrel  in  the  old  fashioned  way,  or 
when  the  rubbing  is  done  by  a washing-machine,  a tablespoon  of  turpentine 
added  to  a pint  of  soft  soap,  taking  enough  of  the  mixture  to  make  a good 
suds  for  each  lot  of  clothes  aids  in  removing  the  dirt.  Care  must  be  taken 
not  to  handle  the  turpentine  with  the  hands,  or  to  breathe  the  fumes  of  it, 
as  it  is  very  injurious  to  some  persons,  and  great  care  should  be  taken  to 
rinse  the  clothes  very  thoroughly,  or  the  clothing  may  retain  enough  of  the 
turpentine  to  be  injurious,  when  worn  next  the  skin. 

To  Wash  Flannels  in  Tepid  Water. — The  usefulness  of  liquid  ammonia 
is  not  as  universally  known  among  housewives  as  it  deserves  to  be.  If  you 
add  some  of  it  to  a soap-suds  made  of  a mild  soap,  it  will  prevent  the  fiannel 
from  becoming  yellow  or  shrinking.  It  is  the  potash  and  soda  contained  in 
sharp  soap  which  tends  to  color  animal  fibres  yellow  ; the  shrinking  may  also 
be  partially  due  to  this  agency,  but  above  all  to  the  exposure  of  the  flannel 
while  wet  to  the  extremes  of  low  or  high  temperatures.  Dipping  it  in  boil- 
ing water  or  leaving  it  out  in  the  rain  \^ill  also  cause  it  to  shrink  and  become 
hard.  To  preserve  their  softness,  flannels  should  be  washed  in  tepid  suds, 
rinsed  in  tepid  water,  and  dried  rapidly  at  a moderate  heat. 

To  Wash  Lace  Ruchings. — Wash  with  the  hands  in  warm  suds  (if  much 
soiled,  soak  in  warm  water  two  or  three  hours),  rinse  thoroughly,  and  starch 
in  thick  starch,  dry  out  doors  if  the  day  be  clear;  if  not,  place  between  dry 
cloth,  roll  tightly  and  put  away  till  dry;  then,  with  the  fingers,  open  each 
row  and  pull  out  smoothly  (have  a cup  of  clear  water  in  which  to  dip  the 
fingers  or  dampen  the  lace) ; then  pull  out  straight  the  outer  edge  of  each 
with  the  thumb  and  finger,  and  draw  the  binding  over  the  point  or  side  with 
a hot  iron.  If  the  ruche  is  single  or  only  two  rows,  it  can  be  ironed  after  be- 
ing smoothed  (the  first  process).  Blonde  or  net  that  has  become  yellow  can 
be  bleached  by  hanging  in  the  sun  or  laying  out  overnight  in  the  (lew. 


THE  LAHNBRY. 


1093 


To  Make  Fine  Starch. — AVet  the  starch  smooth  in  a little  cold  water,  in 
a large  pan,  pour  in  a quart  boiling  water  to  two  or  three  tablespoons  starch, 
stirring  rapidly  all  the  while ; place  on  stove,  stir  until  it  boils,  and  then  oc- 
casionally. Boil  from  five  to  fifteen  minutes,  or  until  the  starch  is  perfectly 
clear.  Some  add  a little  salt,  or  butter  or  pure  lard,  or  stir  with  a sperm 
candle  ; others  add  a teaspoon  kerosene  to  one  quart  starch  ; this  prevents 
the  stickiness  sometimes  so  annoying  in  ironing.  Either  of  the  above  in- 
gredients is  an  improvement  to  flour  starch.  Many,  just  before  using  starch 
add  a little  blueing.  Cold  starch  is  made  from  starch  dissolved  in  cold  water, 
being  careful  not  to  have  it  too  thick  ; since  it  rots  the  clothes,  it  is  not  ad- 
visable to  use  it — the  same  is  true  of  potato  starch. 

For  Washing  the  Lighter  Woolen  Fabrics  that  enter  into  the  composition 
of  summer  dresses,  borax  is  one  of  the  most  useful  articles  for  softening  the 
water  and  cleansing  the  material.  This  is  used  in  the  proportion  of  a table- 
spoon to  a gallon  of  water,  and,  if  dissolved  in  hot  water,  it  makes  a better 
lather.  Of  course,  no  thoughtful  person  will  attempt  to  wash  a W'oolen 
dress  without  first  having  ripped  it  apart,  picked  out  all  the  threads,  brushed 
the  dustout,  and  marked  the  particularly  soiled  places  by  running  a thread 
around  them.  AV'ashone  piece  at  a time,  roll  up  and  squeeze,  or  pass  through 
a wringer  instead  of  twisting  through  the  hands.  AVash  in  several  changes 
of  borax  w^ater,  and  rinse  in  clear  water,  in  which  a well-beaten  egg  has 
been  mixed ; shake  thoroughly,  and  fold  in  sheets  until  evenly  damp  a., 
through,  then  iron  the  wrong  side  with  an  iron  hot  enough  to  smooth  nicely 
without  scorching. 

Wash  Silk  Handkerchiefs  by  laying  them  on  a smooth  board,  and  rub- 
bing with  the  palm  of  the  hand.  Use  either  borax  or  white  castile  soap  to 
make  the  suds  ; rinse  in  clear  w^ater,  shake  till  nearly  dry,  fold  evenly,  lay 
between  boards,  and  put  a weight  on  them.  No  ironing  is  required.  Silk 
hose  and  ribbons  may  be  treated  in  the  same  way ; if  there  are  colors  that 
run,  put  as  much  sugar  of  lead  as  will  lie  on  a quarter  dollar,  into  a half  gal- 
lon of  water,  and  soak  the  goods  half  an  hour,  stirring  frequently,  then  wash 
as  above,  and  rinse  in  several  clear  w^aters,  using  sugar  of  lead  in  the  last. 
Or  wash  in  cold  rain  water  wfith  a little  curd  soap  ; then  rinse  them  in  rain- 
water— cold — slightly  colored  with  stone  blue ; wring  well  and  stretch  them 
out  on  a mattress,  tacking  them  out  tightly.  They  wfill  look  good  as  new  if 
carefully  washed. 

To  Wash  Black  Lace. — Have  a smooth,  clear,  round  bottle ; one  with  a 
good  deal  of  body  and  not  much  neck,  is  preferable  to  any  other.  Dip 
lace  into  a little  ale,  and  after  pressing  out  the  moisture  a little,  wind  it 
smoothly  and  carefully — picking  out  the  edges  and  points — round  and 
round  bottle.  Cover  it  up,  or  put  where  no  dust  can  reach  till  dry,  when 
it  will  look  new.  Use  no  soap.,  only  ale  or  beer.  Either  removes  rws^fness, 
and  veils,  (black  net,  or  lace)  dipped  in  beer  for  an  instant,  folded  smoothly y 
pressed  free  of  moisture  in  a cloth,  and  then  hung  for  a couple  of  min- 
utes before  the  fire  will  become  stiff,  fresh,  and  nice,  without  ironing.  Th« 
bottle  is  also  nice  to  use  for  white  lace,  but  do  not  use  the  ale  or  beer. 

Washing^  Light  Colored  Prints  and  Cambrics. — Take  a tablespoon  of 
alum,  and  dissolve  it  in  enough  luke  warm  water  to  rinse  a print  dress.  Dip 
the  soiled  dress  into  it,  taking  care  to  wet  thoroughly  every  part  of  it,  and 
then  wring  it  out.  Have  warm,  not  hot,  suds  all  ready,  and  wash  out  the 
dress  quickly ; then  rinse  it  in  cold  water.  (AA^hite  castile  soap  is  the  best  for 
colored  cottons,  if  it  can  be  commanded.)  Have  the  starch  ready,  but  not 


1094 


THE  LAUNDRY. 


too  hot ; rinse  the  dress  in  it,  wring  out,  and  hang  it  wrong  side  out  to  dry, 
but  not  in  the  sun.  Place  it  where  the  wind  will  strike  it  rather  than  the 
sun.  When  dry,  iron  directly.  Prints  should  never  be  sprinkled ; but,  if 
allowed  to  become  too  dry,  they  should  be  ironed  under  a damp  cloth.  It 
is  better  to  wash  them  some  day  by  themselves,  when  washing  and  ironing 
can  be  done  at  once. 

To  Wash  Flannels  in  Boiling  Water. — Make  a strong  suds  of  boiling 
water  and  soft  soap — hard  soap  makes  flannels  stiff  and  wiry — put  them  in, 
pressing  them  down  under  the  water  with  a clothes-stick ; when  cool  enough 
rub  the  articles  carefully  between  the  hands,  then  wring — but  not  through 
the  wringer — as  dry  as  possible,  shake,  snap  out,  and  pull  each  piece  into  its 
original  size  and  shape,  then  throw  immediately  into  another  tub  of  boiling 
water,  in  which  you  have  thoroughly  mixed  some  nice  blueing.  Shake  them 
up  and  down  in  this  last  water  with  a clothes  stick  until  cool  enough  for  the 
hands,  then  rinse  well,  wring,  shake  out  and  pull  into  shape — the  snapping 
and  pulling  are  as  necessary  as  the  washing— and  hang  in  a sunny  place 
where  they  will  dry  quickly.  Many  prefer  to  rinse  in  two  waters  with  the 
bluing  in  the  last,  and  this  is  always  advisable  when  there  are  many  flannels. 

Care  of  Irons. — When  irons  become  rougher  smoky,  lay  a littU' 
fine  salt  on  a flat  surface  and  rub  them  well ; it  will  prevent  them  sticking  tc  > 
any  thing  starched,  and  make  them  smooth ; or  scour  with  bath  brick  before! 
heating,  and  when  hot  rub  well  with  salt,  and  then  with  a small  piece  ol’ 
beeswax  tied  up  in  a rag,  after  which  wipe  clean  on  a dry  cloth.  A piece  of 
fine  sandpaper  is  also  a good  thing  to  have  near  the  stove,  or  a hard,  smooth 
board  covered  with  brick  dust,  to  rub  each  iron  on  when  it  is  put  back  on 
the  stove,  so  that  no  starch  may  remain  to  be  burnt  on.  Put  beeswax  be- 
tween pieces  of  paper  or  clotli  and  keep  on  the  table  close  by  the  flat-iron 
stand.  If  the  irons  get  coated  with  scorched  starch,  rub  them  over  the  pa- 
per that  holds  the  beeswax  and  it  will  all  come  off.  Rubbing  the  iron  over 
the  waxed  paper,  even  if  no  starch  adheres,  adds  to  the  glossiness  of  the 
linen  that  is  ironed.  Washing  them  well  in  soap  suds,  wiping  dry  and  wrap- 
ping in  brown  paper  will  keep  them  nicely  when  not  in  use.  Do  not  keep  on 
stove  after  through  using  them  as  it  soon  burns  them  out. 

Washing  Lace. — To  make  the  starch  properly,  mix  the  dry  particles  with 
enough  cold  water  to  make  a smooth  paste,  add  cold  water  until  it  looks  like 
milk  and  water,  and  boil  it  in  a smoothly  glazed  earthen  vessel  until  it  is 
perfectly  transparent.  While  it  is  cooling,  squeeze  the  laces  through  a soap- 
suds, and  rinse  them  in  clear  water.  If  you  wish  them  clear  white,  add  a 
little  bluing ; if  ivory  white,  omit*the  blueing,  and  if  yellow-tinged  add  a few 
teaspoons  clear  coffee  to  the  starch.  Run  through  the  starch,  squeeze,  roll 
up  in  towels,  and  clap  each  piece  separately  until  dry ; pull  gently  into 
shape,  from  time  to  time,  with  the  fingers,  and  pin  on  the  ironing  table  or 
bosom’-board  or  upon  the  pillows  in  the  ‘ ‘spare’  ’ bedroom.  When  dry,  press 
between  tissue  paper  with  a hot  iron,  punch  the  openings  with  an  ivory 
stiletto,  and  pick  each  pearl  or  loop  on  the  edge  with  a coarse  pin  until  it 
looks  like  new  lace. 

Lawn  and  Muslin  dresses  that  have  fadea  may  be  whitened  in  the  boiling 
suds  and  bleached  on  the  grass,  and,  when  done  up,  are  quite  as  pretty  as 
dresses  made  of  new  white  material.  Delicate  hued  muslin  and  cambric  dress- 
es may  be  washed  nicely  by  the  following  process  : Shave  half  a pound  of  com- 
mon hard  soap  into  a gallon  of  boiling  water  ; let  it  melt,  turn  it  into  a tub  of 
lukewarm  water ; stir  a quart  of  wheat  bran  into  a second  tub  of  lukewarm 
water,  and  have  ready  a third  tub  with  clear  water ; put  the  dress  into  the  first 
tub  of  suds,  rub  gently,  or  rather  “souse”  it  up  and  down,  and  squeezeit  out ; 


THE  LAUNDRY. 


1095 


treat  it  the  same  in  a tub  of  bran  water ; rinse,  dry  and  dip  in  starch  made 
the  same  as  for  shirts ; dry  again,  and  then  rinse  thoroughly  in  clear  water ; 
dry  again,  and  sprinkle  with  a whisk-broom  or  sprinkler;  roll  up  in  a thick 
cloth  while  the  iron  gets  hot,  and  iron  with  them  as  hot  as  they  can  be  used 
without  scorching  the  dress.  By  taking  a clear  day,  it  is  little  trouble  to  do 
several  dresses  in  a few  hours. 

To  Remove  Grease  from  Silh,  Cotton,  Linen  or  Worsted  Goods. — Rub  mag- 
nesia freely  on  both  sides  of  silk  or  worsted  goods  and  hang  away.  Benzine, 
ether  or  soap  will  take  out  spots  from  silk,  but  remember  the  goods  must  not 
be  rubbed.  Oil  or  turpentine  or  benzine  will  remove  spots  of  paint,  varnish 
or  pitch  from  white  or  colored  cotton  or  woolen  goods.  After  using  it,  they 
should  be  washed  in  soap-suds.  Spots  from  sperm  candles,  stearine,  and 
the  like,  should  be  softened  and  removed  by  ninety-five  per  cent  alcohol,  then 
sponged  off  with  weak  alcohol,  and  a small  quantity  of  ammonia  added  to 
it.  Holding  white  cotton  or  linen  over  the  fumes  of  burning  sulphur,  and 
wetting  in  warm  chloride  water;  will  take  out  wine  and  fruit  stains.  The 
sooner  the  remedy  is  applied,  after  any  of  these  spots  or  stains  are  discover- 
ed, the  more  efiTectual  the  restoration.  From  white  linen  or  cotton  by  soap- 
suds or  weak  lye,  and  from  calicoes  with  warm  soap-suds.  From  wmolens 
by  soap-suds  or  ammonia.  On  silks  use  either  yolk  of  egg  with  water,  mag- 
nesia, ether,  benzine,  ammonia,  or  French  chalk. 

To  Press  and  Clean  Silks. — All  Satin  goods  should  be  pressed  upon  tne 
right  side.  To  press  and  clean  black  silk,  shake  out  all  the  dust,  clean  well 
with  a flannel  cloth,  rubbing  it  up  and  down  over  the  silk ; this  takes  out 
all  dust  that  may  be  left ; take  some  good  lager  beer  and  sponge  the  silk, 
both  on  the  wrong  and  right  side,  sponging  across  the  width  of  the  silk,  and 
not  down  thn  length,  and  with  a moderately- warm  iron,  press  what  is  intend- 
ed for  the  W'  ong  side.  After  sponging,  it  is  better  to  wait  a few  minutes  be- 
fore pressing,  as  the  irons  will  not  be  so  apt  to  stick. 

Or,  sponge  with  hot  coffee,  thoroughlj’-  freed  from  sediment  by  being 
strained  through  muslin.  The  silk  is  sponged  on  the  side  intended  to  show, 
it  is  allowed  to  become  partially  dry,  and  then  ironed  on  the  wrong  side. 
The  coff'ee  removes  every  particle  of  grease,  and  restores  the  brilliancy  of 
silk,  without  giving  it  either  the  shiny  appearance  or  crackly  or  papery  stiff- 
ness obtained  by  beer  or  any  other  liquid.  The  silk  appears  thickened  by 
the  process,  and  this  good  effect  remains. 

To  Make  Hard  Soap. — Place  one  gallon  of  good  soft  soap  in  a kettle  to 
boil ; w^hen  it  begins  to  boil,  stir  in  a pint  measure  level  full  of  common  salt, 
stirring  it  all  the  time  till  the  salt  is  dissolved,  then  set  to  cool.  Next  day, 
cut  out  the  soap  in  squares,  scrape  off  the  soft,  dark  part,  that  adheres  to  the 
lower  side  of  the  cakes,  pour  out  the  lye,  and  wash  the  kettle ; place  the 
soap,  cut  in  thin  slices  in  the  kettle,  with  more  weak  lye.  If  the  lye  is 
strong  add  rain-water,  pint  for  pint ; let  it  boil  until  the  soap  is  dissolved. 
While  boiling,  again  stir  in  a pint  measure  level  full  of  salt,  stirring  it  same 
as  before,  and  set  to  cool.  When  perfectly  hard,  cut  it  in  cakes  the  size  you 
wish,  scraping  off  the  soft  lye  part  that  adheres  to  the  lower  side,  and  lay  on 
boards,  top  side  down  in  the  sun,  turning  it  each  day  until  sufficiently  dry. 
Or,  if  you  wish  to  make  a twelve  or  fourteen  gallon  kettle  of  soft  soap  into 
hard,  three  quarts  of  salt,  stirred  in  each  time,  will  be  sufficient.  But  as 
soap  differs  in  strength,  the  quantity  of  salt  must  also  differ.  The  stronger  the 
soap  the  more  salt  is  required.  A good  general  rule  is  our  old  grandmother’s : 
“When  the  soap  is  boiling,  stir  in  salt  until  it  curdles  and  becomes  whitish 
in  color.”  It  can  be  tested  by  placing  some  in  a shallow  pan,  as  it  cools  in 
a few  minutes  sufficiently  to  know  if  enough  salt  is  in. 


1096 


THE  LAUNDRY. 


A Clothes  Pounder.— Among  all  the  ways  and  machines  tried  for  washing; 
clothes  some  find  nothing  equal  to  a barrel  and  pounder.  ® 

Bore  six  or  seven  inch  and  a half,  or  larger  holes,  into 
the  end  of  a six  or  eight  inch  sapling  (can  use  butternut, 
it  bores  easily,  and  is  handy,)  two  or  three  inches  deep, 
then  bore  a ^-inch  side  hole  through  the  bottom  of  the 
larger  ones  to  let  out  the  air  and  water  when  pounding. 

The  pounder  should  be  six  or  eight,  inches  long  or  high, 
made  a little  tapering,  and  a hoop-iron  band  put  round 
it  near  the  top.  For  a handle  use  a common  ash  hoe- 
handle,  such  as  can  be  bought  at  stores  for  a dime.  A 
coal  oil  barrel  to  pound  in  is  cheap  and  strong,  and  it 
makes  a good  water  barrel,  or  convenient  to  put  in 
dirty  clothes.  Soap  clothes  well,  and  put  into  barrel 
just  warm  water  enough  to  thoroughly  wet  the  clothes. 

In  washing  this  way  persons  generally  use  too  much 
water,  it  then  makes  splashing  work.  If  the  water  gets 
too  dirty,  change  it  of  course.  A pounder  made  as  il- 
lustrated is  even  better  than  one  described. 

To  Blench  Muslin. — For  thirty  yards  of  muslin,  take 
one  pound  of  chloride  of  lime,  dissolve  in  two  quarts 
rain-water ; let  cloth  soak  overnight  in  warm  rain-water, 
or  long  enough  to  be  thoroughly  wet ; wring  out  cloth  and 
put  in  another  tub  of  warm  rainwater  in  which  the  chloride  of  lime  solution 
has  been  poured.  Let  it  remainf  or  about  twenty  minutes,  lifting  up  the  cloth 
and  airing  every  few  minutes, and  rinse  in  clear  rain-water.  This  will  not  injure 
the  cloth  in  the  least, and  is  much  less  troublesome  than  bleaching  on  the  grass 

Or,  scald  in  suds  and  lay  them  on  the  clean  grass  all  night,  or  if  this  can 
not  be  done,  bring  in  and  place  in  a tub  of  clean  soft  water.  In  the  morning 
Bcald  again  and  put  out  as  before.  It  will  take  from  one  to  two  weeks  to 
bleach  white.  May  be  bleached  in  winter  by  placing  on  the  snow.  May  is 
the  best  month  fo/ bleaching.  To  whiten  yellow  linens  or  muslins,  soak 
over  night,  or  longer,  in  buttermilk;  rinse  thoroughly  and  wash  the  same  as 
other  clothes.  This  will  also  answer  for  light  calicoes,  percales,  lawns,  etc., 
that  will  not  fade.  Some  use  sour  milk  when  not  able  to  get  buttermilk.  To 
whiten  yellow  laces,  old  collars,  etc.,  put  in  a glass  bottle  or  jar  in  a strong 
suds,  let  stand  in  sun  for  seven  days,  shaking  occasionally. 


Clothes  Pounder. 


To  Wash  Lace  Curtains. — Shake  the  dust  well  out  of  the  lace,  put  in  tepid 
water,  in  which  a little  soda  has  been  dissolved,  and  wash  at  once  carefully 
with  the  hands  in  several  waters,  or  until  perfectly  clean ; rinse  in  water 
well  blued,  also  blue  the  boiled  starch  quite  deeply  and  squeeze,  but  do  not 
wring.  Pin  some  sheets  down  to  the  carpet  in  a vacant,  airy  room,  then  pin 
on  the  curtains  stretched  to  exactly  the  size  they  were  before  being  wet.  In 
a few  hours  they  will  be  dry  and  ready  to  put  up.  The  whole  process  of 
washing  and  pinning  down  should  occupy  as  little  time  as  possible,  as  lace 
will  shrink  more  than  any  other  cotton  goods  when  long  wet.  ^ Above  all,  it 
should  not  be  allowed  to  “soak.’  from  the  mistaken  idea  that  it  washes  more 
easily,  nor  should  it  ever  be  ironed.  Another  way  is  to  fasten  them  in  a pair 
of  frames,  which  every  housekeeper  should  have  made  very  like  the  old- 
fashioned  quilting-frames,  thickly  studded  along  the  inside  with  the  smallest 
size  of  galvanized  tenter  hooks,  in  which  to  fasten  the  lace,  and  having  holes 
and  wooden  pins  with  which  to  vary  the  length  and  breadth  to  suit  the  dif- 
ferent sizes  of  curtains.  The  curtains  should  always  be  measured  before  be- 
ing wet,  and  stretched  in  the  frames  to  that  size  to  prevent  shrinking.  Five 
or  six  curtains  of  the  same  size  may  be  put  in,  one  above  the  other,  and  all 
dried  at  once.  The  frames  may  rest  ©n  four  chairs. 


THE  LAUNDRY. 


1097 


How  to  do  up  Shirt-bosoms. — To  fine  starch  add  a piece  of  “Enamel”  the 
size  of  a hazl e-nut ; if  this  is  not  at  hand  use  a table-spoon  gum-arabic  solu- 
tion (made  by  pouring  boiling  water  upon  gum-arabic  and  standing  until 
clear  and  transparent},  or  a piece  of  clean  mutton  tallow  half  the  size  of  a 
nutmeg  and  a teaspoon  of  salt  will  do,  but  is  not  as  good.  Strain  the  starch 
through  a strainer  or  a piece  of  thin  muslin.  Have  the  shirt  turned  wrong 
side  out;  dip  the  bosoms  carefully  in  the  fine  starch,  made  according  to  re- 
cipe, and  squeeze  out,  repeating  the  operation  until  the  bosoms  are  thorough- 
ly and  evenly  saturated  with  starch ; proceed  to  dry.  Three  hours  before 
ironing  dip  the  bosoms  in  clear  water ; wring  out  and  roll  up  tightly.  First 
iron  the  back  by  folding  it  lengthwise  through  the  center ; next  iron  the 
wristbands,  and  both  sides  of  the  sleeves ; then  the  collar-band ; now  place 
the  bosom-board  under  the  bosom,  and  with  a dampened  napkin  rub  the 
bosom  from  the  top  towards  the  bottom,  smoothing  and  arranging  each  plait 
neatly.  With  smooth,  moderately  hot  flat-iron,  begin  at  the  top  and  iron 
downwards,  and  continue  the  operation  until  the  bosom  is  perfectly  dry  and 
shining.  Remove  the  bosom-board,  and  iron  the  front  of  the  shirt.  The 
bosoms  and  cuffs  of  shirts,  indeed  of  all  nice  work,  will  look  clearer  and  bet- 
ter if  they  are  first  ironed  under  a piece  of  thin  old  muslin.  It  takes  off  the 
first  heat  of  the  iron,  and  removes  any  lumps  of  starch. 

Washing  Fluid. — The  very  best  known,  as  it  saves  time,  labor,  clotnes 
and  soap  : One  pound  sal-soda,  one-half  pound  stone  lime,  five  cpiarts  soft 
water,  (some  add  one-fifth  pound  borax) ; boil  a short  time  in  copper  or 
brass  kettle,  stirring  occasionally,  let  settle  and  pour  off  the  clear  fluid  into 
a stone  jug,  and  cork  for  use ; soak  white  clothes  over  night  in  simple  water, 
wring  out  and  soap  wristbands,  collars,  and  dirty  stained  places  ; have  boiler 
half  filled  with  water,  and  when  at  scalding  heat  put  in  one  common  tea- 
spoon of  fluid,  stir  and  put  in  clothes,  and  boil  half  an  hour,  rub  lightly 
through  one  suds  only,  rinsing  well  in  the  blueing  water  as  usual,  and  all  is 
complete.  Instead  oi  soaking  clothes  over  night,  they  may  soak  in  suds  for 
a few  hours  before  beginning  washing.  For  each  additional  boiler  of  clothes, 
add  a half  cup  only  of  the  fluid,  of  course  boiling  in  the  same  water  through 
the  whole  washing.  If  more  water  is  needed  in  the  boiler  for  the  last  clothes, 
dip  it  from  the  sudsing  tub.  This  fluid  brightens  instead  of  fading  the  colors 
in  calico,  and  is  good  for  coloring  flannels.  It  does  not  rot  clothes,  but  they 
inust  not  lie  long  in  the  water ; the  boiling,  sudsing,  rinsing  and  blueing  must  fol- 
low each  other  in  rapid  succession,  until  clothes  are  hung  on  the  line,  which 
f jhould  be  by  ten  o’clock  in  the  morning.  Some  of  this  fluid,  put  in  hot  water, 
Is  excellent  for  removing  grease  spots  from  the  floor,  doors,  and  windows ; 
also  for  cleansing  tin-ware,  pots,  and  kettles. 

To  Wash  Woolen  Goods. — Dissolve  a large  tablespoon  borax  in  a pint 
boiling  water.  Mix  one  quarter  of  it  in  the  cold  water  in  which  greasy 
woolen  goods  are  to  be  washed.  Put  in  one  piece  at  a time,  using  soap,  ii 
needed ; and  if  necessary  add  more  of  the  borax- water.  Wash  and  rinse  in 
cold  water.  Shake  well  and  hang  where  the  goods  will  dry  quickly.  Flan- 
nels can  be  washed  in  the  same  way.  The  important  thing  in  washing 
flannels  is  to  have  all  waters  of  the  same  temperature.  If  you  begin  with 
cold,  go  through  with  cold ; if  with  hot,  have  all  waters  equally  hot.  They 
must  not  be  allowed  to  freeze  in  drying.  Some  add  a little  salt  to  the  last 
rinsing  water.  In  washing  flannels  be  careful  that  the  soap  used  has  no  resin 
in  it.  When  flannels  are  nearly  dry,  take  in,  fold  carefully,  roll  up  in  damp 
cloth  so  that  that  they  will  iron  smoothly.  In  ironing  heavy  woolen  goods, 
especially  pants,  vests,  etc.,  it  is  well  to  let  them  get  dried,  then  spread 
them  out  on  an  ironing-board  (not  on  a table),  wring  a cloth  out  of  clear 
water,  and  lay  over  the  article,  then  iron  with  a hot  iron  till  dry;  wet  the 
cloth  again  and  spread  it  just  above  the  part  already  ironed,  letting  it  come 


1098 


THE  LAUNDRY, 


a half  inch  or  so  on  that  which  has  been  pressed,  so  that  there  will  be  no 
line  to  mark  where  the  cloth  w'as  moved ; continue  this  till  the  whole  gar- 
ment has  been  thoroughly  pressed.  Woolen  garments  thus  ironed  will  look 
like  new  ; but  in  doing  this  care  must  be  exercised  that  every  spotthat  looks 
at  all  ‘‘fulled”  or  shrunk  should  be  stretched  while  being  pressed  under  the 
w^et  cloth.  Bring  the  outside  to  fit  the  linings,  as  when  new,  but  if  not  quite 
able  to  do  this,  rip  the  lining  and  trim  oflf  to  match.  Ail  the  seams,  espec- 
ially on  pants,  must  be  first  pressed  on  a “press  board,”  then  fold  the  pants 
as  they  are  found  in  the  tailor’s  shop,  and  go  over  them  with  the  wet  cloth 
and  hot  iron.  Soap-bark  Tea  water  is  also  nice  for  washing  pants,  etc. 

Flour  Starch. — One  coft’ee  cup  flour  a little  rounded,  water  enough  to 
moisten  it,  let  it  stand  ten  or  fifteen  minutes,  then  add  enough  more  water  to 
make  it  the  consistency  of  thin  molasses.  Beat  well,  and  to  make  it  perfectly 
smooth,  stir  well  with  an  egg-beater.  Have  a clean  kettle  or  pan  with  five 
pints  of  water  (soft  water  is  best)  on  stove  boiling,  into  which  stir  this  thick- 
ening, let  it  boil  from  two  *to  five  minutes,  then  stir  in  half  teaspoon  each 
salt  and  butter  or  lard,  or  stir  while  boiling  with  a sperm  candle.  Strain 
through  a cotton  flour  sack,  or  a bag  made  of  a crash  towel,  by  putting  the 
ends  together  and  sewing  up  the  sides.  It  is  well  to  have  a pan  of  cold  w'ater 
in  which  to  dip  the  hand,  in  order  to  squeeze  starch  through  as  hot  as  pos- 
sible, as  to  secure  best  results  starch  must  be  very  hot.  If  the  articles  to  be 
starched  need  to  be  very  stiff,  dry  them  before  starching ; if  not,  wring  them 
well  through  the  wringer,  then  starch.  This  quantity  will  starch  two  large 
work  aprons,  bosom  and  cuffs  of  two  calico  shirts,  one  calico  dress,  a tie 
apron  and  five  children’s  aprons.  A rainy,  damp,  or  very  windy  day,  is  not 
good  for  starching.  Anything  that  is  required  to  be  extra  stiff,  as  the  front 
of  a sunbonnet,  can  be  restarched  by  rubbing  more  starch  on  after  it  first 
becomes  dry,  do  so  one  or  more  times  until  it  is  stiff  enough.  Starch  made 
this  way  makes  the  clothes  look  nicely,  and  seldom  sticks  to  the  iron  or  rubs 
up  on  the  clothes.  If  it  should,  place  a small  lump  of  beeswax  on  the  cloth 
on  which  the  iron  is  tested,  rub  the  hot  iron  swiftly  over  the  beeswax,  then 
rub  it  on  the  cloth  before  ironing  the  garment.  Rubbing  the  hot  iron  over 
the  beeswax,  causes  the  latter  to  stick  to  the  cloth,  and  the  same  cloth  can 
be  used  many  times,  it  is  a much  better  way  than  to  have  the  beeswax  tied 
up  in  a cloth. 

To  Dry-starch,  Fold  and  Iron  Shirts. — In  doing  up  shirts,  wristbands 
and  collars  should  be  starched  first  if  the  collars  are  sewed  on.  Dip  them 
into  the  hot  starch,  and  as  soon  as  the  hand  can  bear  the  heat' (and  dipping 
the  hand  in  cold  water  often  will  expedite  the  work)  rub  the  starch  in  very 
thoroughly,  taking  care  that  no  motes  or  lumps  of  starch  adhere  to  the  linen. 
Then  starch  the  shirt-bosom  the  same  way  keeping  the  starch  hot  all  the 
time  by  setting  the  dish  in  a deep  pan  of  water.  Rub  it  into  the  linen  very 
carefully,  pass  the  finger  under  the  plaits  and  raise  them  up  sc  that  the 
starch  shall  penetrate  all  through  evenly.  Some  rub  it  into  the  plaits  with 
a piece  of  clean  linen,  but  we  think  the  hand  does  the  work  more  thoroughly 
and  evenly.  When  perfectly  starched,  shake  out  the  shirt  evenly,  fold  both 
sides  of  the  bosom  together  and  bring  the  shoulders  and  side  seams  together 
evenly ; that  will  lay  the  sleeves  one  over  the  other,  and  after  pulling  the 
wristbands  into  shape  smoothly  they  can  be  folded  together  and  the  w'rist- 
bands  rolled  tightly  and,  with  the  sleeves,  be  folded  and  laid  even  on  the 
sides  of  the  shirt.  Then  turn  the  sides  with  the  sleeves  over  on  the  front, 
and  beginning  at  the  neck  roll  the  whole  tightly  together,  wrap  in  a towel 
and  let  it  remain  so  several  hours  before  ironing — all  night  if  starched  and 
folded  in  the  evening — and  in  the  summer  put  in  a cool  place  where  the 
starch  will  not  sour,  and  in  the  winter  keep  warm  enough  to  prevent  freez- 
ing. To  do  up  shirt  bosoms  in  the  most  perfect  way,  one  must  have  a “pol- 


THE  LAUNDRY. 


1099 


ishing  iron” — a small  iron  rounded  over  and  highly  polished  on  the  ends  and 
sides.  Spread  the  bosom  on  a hard  and  very  smooth  board,  with  only  one 
thickness  of  cotton  cloth  sewed  tight  across  it.  Spread  a wet  cloth  over  and 
iron  quickl}^  with  a hot  iron,  then  remove  the  cloth  and  with  a polishing  iron 
as  hot  as  can  be  used  without  scorching,  rub  the  bosom  quick  and  hard  up 
and  down,  not  crosswise.  Use  only  the  rounded  part  of  the  front  of  the  iron, 
that  puts  all  the  friction  on  a small  part  at  one  time,  and  gives  the  full  bene- 
fit of  all  the  gloss  in  starch  or  linen. 

Soap  For  Family  Use. — Much  of  the  toilet  and  laundry  soaps  in  the 
market  are  adulterated  with  injurious,  and  to  some  persons,  poisonous  sub- 
tances  by  which  diseases  of  the  skin  are  occasioned  or  greatly  aggravated, 
and  greaVsuffering  results,  which  is  rarely  traced  to  the  real  cause.  The  fat 
tried  from  animals  which  have  died  of  disease,  if  not  thoroughly  saponified, 
is  poisonous,  and  sometimes  produces  death.  If  in  making  soap  the  mass  is 
heated  to  too  high  a degree,  a film  of  soap  forms  around  the  particles  of  fat ; 
if  at  this  stage  resin,  sal-soda,  silicate,  and  other  adulterations  are  added, 
the  fat  is  not  saponified,  but  filmed,  and  if  poisonous  or  diseased,  it  so  re- 
mains, and  is. dangerous  to  use.  A bar  of  such  soap  has  an  oily  feeling,  and 
is  unfit  for  use.  If  it  feels  sticky,  it  has  too  much  resin  in  it.  The  slippery 
feeling  which  belongs  to  soap  properly  made  cannot  be  mistaken.  Another 
test  of  pure  soft  or  hard  soap  is  its  translucent  or  semi-transparent  appear- 
ance. Soft  soap  that  is  cloudy  is  not  thoroughly  saponified,  or  else  has  been 
made  of  dirty  or  impure  grease.  It  is  not  only  safer  but  more  economical  to 
buy  pure  soap,  as  the  adulterations  increase  the  quantity  without  adding 
to  the  erasive  power.  Some  of  the  brown  soaps  sold  in  the  market  are  sev- 
enty-five per  cent  resin,  and  the  buyer  gets  only  twenty-five  per  cent  of 
what  he  wants  for  his  money.  Fifteen  per  cent,  resin  improves  the  quality, 
but  any  excess  damages  it,  and  is  worse  than  useless.  Almost  any  family  may 
make  excellent  soft  soap  with  ver}'  little  expense  by  saving  grease,  and  using 
lye  from  pure  hardwood  ashes  or  pure  potash.  Never  use  concentrated  lye. 

To  set  the  leach,  bore  several  auger  holes  in  the  bottom  of  a barrel ; or 
use  one  without  a bottom ; prepare  a board  wider  than  the  barrel,  set  barret 
on  it,  and  cut  a groove  around  just  outside  the  barrel,  making  one  groove 
from  this  to  the  edge  of  the  board  to  carry  oflf  the  lye  as  it  runs  off.  Place  two 
feet  from  the  ground,  and  tip  so  that  the  lye  may  run  easily  from  the  board 
into  the  vessel  below  prepared  to  receive  it.  Put  half-bricks  or  stones 
around  the  edge  of  inside  of  barrel,  place  on  them  one  end  of  sticks  one  or 
two  inches  wide,  inclining  to  the  center;  place  straw  to  the  depth  of  two 
inches,  over  it  scatter  two  pounds  slacked  lime , put  in  the  ashes  about  a half 
bushel  at  a time,  pack  well  by  using  a pounder,  spade,  or  common  ax  ; con- 
tinue to  pack  until  barrel  is  full,  leaving  a funnel-shaped  hollow  in  the  cen- 
ter large  enough  to  hold  several  quarts  of  water.  Use  soft  or  rain-water,  and 
boiling  hot.  Let  the  first  water  disappear  before  adding  more.  If  the  ashes 
are  packed  very  tightly,  it  may  require  two  or  three  days  before  the  lye  will 
begin  to  run,  but  it  is  much  better  as  it  will  be  stronger.  If  a large  quantity 
of  lye  is  needed,  prepare  a board  long  enough  to  hold  two  or  more  barrels, 
one  back  of  the  other,  with  a groove  in  the  center  the  entire  length  of  the 
board;  on  this  place  the  barrels  prepared  as  above.  A test  of  the  strength 
of  the  lye  is  if  it  will  bear  up  an  egg ; another  is  to  heat  the  lye  to  boiling, 
whirl  a feather  around  in  it  nine  times,  and  if  it  eats  the  feather  it  will  make 
soap. 

Sun  or  Cold  Soap  is  made  by  adding  one  pound  of  cleansed  grease, 
spoiled  lard  or  butter,  to  each  gallon  of  lye  strong  enough  to  float  an  egg. 
Set  the  vessel  in  the  sun  and  stir  thoroughly  each  day  until  it  is  good  soap. 
This  gives  it  a golden  color,  and  produces  an  excellent  soap  for  washing.  It 
may  be  used  in  washing  even  laces  and  fine  cambrics  with  perfect  safety. 


1100 


THE  LAUNDRY. 


To  Cleanse  Grease. — Place  all  grease  of  whatever  kind,  soup  bones,  ham- 
rinds,  cracklings,  or  any  refuse  fat  into  a kettle,  with  weak  lye  enough  to 
boil  it  until  all  particles  of  fat  are  extracted ; let  it  cool,  then  skim  off  the 
grease,  which  is  now  ready  to  make  the  “Sun  Soap.”  Would  add  right 
here  that  no  fat  should  be  put  away  for  soap  grease  until  fried  thoroughly. 

Boiled  Soap. — There  is  no  romance  or  poetry  in  making  boiled  soap,  only 
patient  hard  work ; yet  without  this  useful  article,  what  an  unpresentable 
people  we  should  be.  Place  the  grease,  consisting  of  soup-bones  and  all 
kinds  of  fat  that  accumulate  in  a kitchen,  in  a kettle,  filling  it  only  half  full ; 
if  there  is  too  much  fat,  it  can  be  skimmed  off  after  the  soap  is  cold,  for 
another  kettle  of  soap.  This  is  the  only  true  test  when  enough  fat  is  used, 
as  the  lye  will  consume  all  that  is  needed  and  no  more.  Make  a’ fire  under 
one  side  of  it.  The  kettle  should  be  in  an  out-house  or  out  of  doors.  Let  it 
heat  very  hot  so  as  to  fry,  and  stir  it  to  prevent  burning ; now  put  in  the  lye, 
a gallon  at  a time,  watch  closely  until  it  boils,  as  it  sometimes  runs  over  at 
the  beginning.  Add  lye  until  the  kettle  is  full  enough,  but  not  too  full, 
to  boil  well.  Soap  should  boil  from  the  side  and  not  the  middle,  as  this 
would  be  more  likely  to  cause  it  to  boil  over.  To  test  the  soap,  to  one  spoon- 
ful of  soap  add  one  of  rain  water ; if  it  stirs  up  very  thick,  the  soap  is  good 
and  will  keep ; if  it  becomes  thinner,  it  is  unfit  for  use. 

This  is  the  result  of  three  causes ; it  is  too  weak,  there  is  a deposit  of 
dirt,  or  it  is  too  strong.  Continue  to  boil  for  a few  hours,  when  it  should 
flow  from  the  stick  with  which  it  is  stirred,  like  thick  molasses ; but  if  after 
boiling  it  remains  thin,  let  it  stand  over  night,  removing  the  fire,  then  drain 
very  carefully  into  another  vessel,  being  particular  to  prevent  any  sediment 
from  passing.  Wash  the  kettle,  return  the  soap  and  bring  to  a boil,  and  if 
the  cause  was  dirt,  it  will  now  be  thick  and  good,  otherwise  it  is  too  strong, 
and  needs  rain-water  added.  This  can  safely  be  done  by  pouring  in  a small 
quantity  at  a time,  until  it  becomes  thick.  These  are  the  usual  causes  that 
arise  to  trouble  soap-makers.  If  other  difficulties  appear,  they  must  use 
good  common  sense  to  meet  and  overcome  them. 

It  might  not  be  amiss  to  add  to  this,  the  most  economical  way  of  saving 
soap  grease.  Have  a kettle  standing  in  the  yard  in  summer  time  (or  if  there 
is  not  a yard,  in  cellar),  and  as  you  save  a little  grease,  put  it  in,  but  do  not 
put  in  raw  grease.  If  there  are  any  pieces  of  fat  left  after  using  a ham  or 
lumps  of  suet  not  used  in  cooking  a steak,  put  them  in  a skillet  and  fry  them 
brown,  then  put  all  into  the  kettle  of  lye  ; thus  every  particle  of  fat  will  be 
saved,  and  no  fear  of  insects,  rats  or  mice  getting  into  and  destroying  the 
grease.  Keep  the  kettle  covered  during  night  or  when  raining,  but  uncov- 
ered in  the  sunshine,  stirring  occasionally.  In  the  fall,  all  that  is  necessary 
is  to  make  a fire  under  the  kettle,  and  let  it  boil  a short  time,  adding  more 
lye  or  grease  if  needed.  If  there  are  too  many  bones  in  it,  or  any  particles 
that  have  not  become  consumed,  ..>kim  them  out  and  put  them  in  a pot  of 
weak,  hot  lye,  stirring  them  with  the  skimmer  to  rinse  off  all  the  soap,  then 
skim  out  and  throw  away,  and  the  pot  of  lye  which  has  become  almost  soap, 
may  now  be  added  to  the  kettle  of  good  soap.  A few  beef  bones  left  in  the 
barrel  will  sink  to  the  bottom,  and  are  said  by  some  good  housewives  to  im- 
prove the  soap.  Soft  soap  should  be  kept  in  a dry  place  in  cellar,  and  is  bet- 
ter if  allowed  to  stand  three  months  before  using. 


SOMETHING  ABOUT  BABIES. 


1101 


SOMETHINGh  ABOUT  BABIES 


A child’s  first  right  is  to  be  well  born,  of  parents  sound  in  body  and  mind, 
who  can  boast  a long  line  of  ancestors  on  both  sides ; an  aristocracy,  based 
on  the  cardinal  virtues  of  purity,  chastity,  sobriety  and  honesty. 

If  the  thought,  the  money,  the  religious  enthusiasm,  now  expended  for 
the  regeneration  of  the  race,  were  wisely  directed  to  the  generation  of  our 
descendents,  to  the  conditions  and  environments  of  parents  and  children,  the 
whole  face  of  society  might  be  changed  before  we  celebrate  the  next  centen- 
nial of  our  national  life. 

All  religious,  educational,  benevolent,  and  industrial  societies  combined, 
working  harmoniously  together,  can  not  do  as  much  in  a life-time  of  efibrt, 
toward  the  elevation  of  mankind,  as  can  parents  in  the  nine  months  of  pre- 
uatal  life.  Locke  took  the  ground  that  the  mind  of  every  child  born  into  the 
world  is  like  a piece  of  blank  paper,  that  you  may  write  thereon  whatever 
yon  will ; but  science  proves  that  such  idealists  as  Descartes  were  nearer 
right  when  they  declared  that  each  soul  comes  freighted  with  its  own  ideas, 
its  individual  proclivities ; that  the  pre-natal  influences  do  more  in  the  for- 
mation of  character  than  all  the  education  that  come  after. 

Let  the  young  man,  indulging  in  all  manner  of  excesses,  remember  that 
in  considering  the  effect  of  dissipation,  wine,  and  tobacco,  on  himself  and 
his  own  happiness  or  misery,  he  does  not  begin  to  measure  the  evil  of  his  life. 
As  the  High  Priest  at  the  family  altar,  his  deeds  of  darkness  will  entail  un- 
told suffering  on  generation  after  generation.  Let  the  young  woman  with 
wasp-like  waist,  who  lives  on  candies,  salads,  hot  bread,  pastry,  and  pickles, 
v/hose  listless  brain  and  idle  hands  seek  no  profitable  occupation,  whose  life 
is  given  to  folly,  remember  that  to  her  ignorance  and  folly  may  yet  be  traced 
the  downfall  of  a nation. 

One  of  the  most  difficult  lessons  to  impress  on  any  mind  is  the  power  and 
extent  of  individual  influence ; the  parents,  above  all  others,  resist  the  belief 
that  their  children  are  exactly  what  they  make  them ; no  more,  no  less ; like 
producing  like.  If  there  is  a class  of  educators  who  need  special  preparation 
for  their  high  and  holy  calling,  it  is  those  who  assume  the  responsibility  of 
parents.  Shall  we  give  less  thought  to  the  creation  of  an  immortal  being 


1102 


SOMETHING  ABOUT  BABIES. 


than  the  artist  devotes  to  his  statue  or  lands3ape?  We  wander  through  the 
art  galleries  in  the  old  world,  and  linger  before  the  works  of  the  great  mas- 
ters, transfixed  with  the  grace  and  beauty,  the  ^lory  and  grandeur,  of  the 
ideals  that  surround  us,  and,  with  equal  preparation,  greater  than  these  are 
possible  in  living,  breathing  humanity.  The  same  thought  and  devotion  in 
real  life  would  soon  give  us  a generation  of  saints,  scholars,  scientists  and 
statesmen,  of  glorified  humanity ; such  as  the  world  has  not  yet  seen.  To 
this  hour,  we  have  left  the  greatest  event  of  the  life  to  chance,  and  the  result 
is  the  blind,  the  deaf  and  dumb,  the  idiot,  the  lunatic,  the  epileptic,  the  crim- 
inal, the  drunkard,  the  glutton — thousands  of  human  beings  in  our  young 
republic,  that  never  should  have  been  born;  a tax  on  society,  a disgrace  to 
their  parents,  and  a curse  to  themselves. 

Well  born — a child’s  next  right  is  to  intelligent  care.  If  we  buy  a rare 
plant,  we  ask  the  florist  innumerable  questions  as  to  its  proper  training;  but 
the  advent  of  an  immortal  being  seems  to  suggest  no  new  thought,  to  anxious 
investigation  into  the  science  of  human  life.  Here  we  trust  everything  to  an 
ignorant  nurse,  or  a neighbor  who  knows  perchance  less  than  we  do  ourselves. 

Ignorance  bandages  the  new-born  child,  as  tight  as  a drum,  from  arm- 
pits  to  hips,  compressing  every  vital  organ.  There  is  a tradition  that  all  in- 
fants are  subject  to  colic  for  the  first  three  months  of  their  existence  ; at  the 
end  of  which  time  the  bandage  is  removed,  and  the  colic  ceases.  Reason 
suggests  that  the  bandage  may  be  the  cause  of  the  colic,  and  queries  as  to  the 
origin  of  the  custom,  and  its  use.  She  is  told  with  all  seriousness,  “that  the 
bones  of  anew-born  child  are  like  cartilage,  that,  unless  they  are  pinned  up 
snugly,  they  are  in  danger  of  falling  to  pieces.”  Reason  replies  : “If  Infinite 
Wisdom  has  made  kittens  and  puppies  so  that  their  component  parts  remain 
together,  it  is  marvelous  that  He  should  have  left  the  human  beings  wholly 
at  the  mercy  of  a bandage;”  and  proposes  with  her  first-born  to  dispense 
with  swaddling  bandages,  leaving  only  a slight  compress  on  the  navel,  for  a 
few  days,  until  perfectly  healed. 

Ignorance,  "believing  that  every  child  comes  into  the  world  in  a diseased 
and  starving  condition,  begins  at  once  the  preparation  of  a variety  of  nostrums, 
chemical  and  culinary,  v/hich  she  persistently  administers  to  the  struggling 
victim.  Reason,  knowing  that  after  the  fatigue  of  a long  and  perilous  march, 
what  the  young  soldier  most  needs  is  absolute  rest  in  some  warm  and  cozy 
tent,  shellers  him  under  her  wing,  and  fights  off  all  intruders,  sure  that  when 
jfcie  needs  his  rations  the  world  will  hear  from  him.  His  first  bath  should  be 
ii>,  generous  application  of  pure,  sweet  olive  oil,  from  head  to  foot,  in  every 
illttle  corner  and  crevice  of  his  outer  man  ; and  then  he  should  be  immersed 
in  warm  soap-suds,  so  nearly  the  temperature  of  the  body  as  to  cause  no 
shock.  Great  care  should  be  taken  that  neither  oil  or  soap  touch  the  eyes. 
The  room  should  be  very  warm,  all  drafts  excluded ; and  on  emerging  from 
the  tub,  a hot  soft-flannel  blanket  should  be  closely  wrapped  around  him, 
in  which  he  may  rest  awhile  before  dressing.  The  softest  garments,  simply 
made,  and  so  cut  as  to  fasten  round  the  throat  and  rest  on  the  shoulders, 
should  constitute  his  wardrobe ; eschew  all  bands,  pins,  ligatures,  ruffles, 
embroidery,  caps,  socks,  etc. 

Let  the  child’s  first  efforts  at  foraging  for  an  existence  be  at  his  mother’s 
breast ; there  he  will  find  the  medicine  he  needs,  and  just  what  she  needs, 
too,  to  dispose  of. 

The  child’s  mouth  and  the  mother’s  nipples  should  be  carefully  washed 
before  nursing ; thus,  much  suffering,  for  iDOth  mother  and  child,  will  be 
prevented. 

“Give  the  baby  water  six  times  a day,”  was  one  of  the  most  important 
messages  ever  sent  over  the  telegraph  wires  to  a mother. 

Ignorance  bathes  her  baby  on  a full  stomach,  because  she  finds  it  will  go 
through  the  ordeal  of  dressing  more  quietly ; Reason  bathes  hers  two  hours 


SOMETHING  ABOUT  BABIES. 


1103 


after  feeding,  knowing  that  the  vital  forces  needed  for  digestion  should  not 
be  drawn  to  the  surface.  Being  constructed  on  the  same  general  plan  with 
the  parents,  the  same  principle  that  makes  it  dangerous  for  a man  to  go 
swimming  immediately  after  eating,  makes  it  equally  so  to  put  a bady  in  its 
tub  after  nursing. 

Though  Ignorance  eats  her  own  meals  regularly  and  at  stated  times,  she 
feeds  her  baby  at  all  times  and  seasons.  If  the  child  has  colic  from  over- 
eating, or  the  improper  diet  of  its  mother,  she  tries  to  allay  its  suffering  with 
additional  feeding  and  vigorous  trotting ; not  succeeding,  she  ends  the  drama 
with  a spoonful  of  Mrs.  Winslow’s  soothing  syrup  ; having  drugged  the  sen- 
tinel and  silenced  his  guns,  she  imagines  the  citidel  safe.  Reason  feeds  her 
baby  regularly,  by  the  clock,  once  in  two  or  three  hours,  and  gives  the  stomach 
some  chance  for  rest.  She  prevents  colic  by  regulating  her  own  diet  and 
habits  of  life,  knowing  that  improper  articles  of  food,  and  ill-nature  or  out- 
bursts of  passion  in  the  mother,  have  cost  many  a baby  its  life 

Ignorance,  hd,ving  noticed  that  her  baby  sleeps  longer  with  its  head  cov- 
ered, uniformly  excludes  the  air.  Breathing  the  same  air  over  a dozen  times, 
it  becomes  stupefied  with  the  carbonic-acid  gas,  is  throwm  into  a profuse 
perspiration,  and  is  sure  to  catch  cold  on  emerging  from  the  fetid  atmos- 
phere. Reason  puts  her  child  to  sleep,  with  head  uncovered,  in  a spacious 
chamber,  bright  with  sunlight  and  fresh  air ; where,  after  along  nap,  she 
wnll  often  find  him  (as  soon  as  he  is  old  enough  to  notice  objects)  looking  at 
the  shadows  on  the  wall,  or  studying  the  anatomical  wonders  of  his  own  hands 
and  feet,  the  very  picture  of  content. 

Regular  feeding,  freedom  in  dress,  plenty  of  sleep,  water,  sunlight,  and 
pure  air,  will^  secure  to  babies  that  health  and  happiness  that  in  nature 
should  be  their  inheritance. 

“Seeing  that  the  atmosphere  is  forty  miles  deep,  all  around  the  globe,” 
says  Horace  Mann,  “it  is  a useless  piece  of  economy  to  breath  it  more  than 
once.  If  we  were  obliged  to  trundle  it  in  wheel-barrows,  in  order  to  fill  our 
homes,  churches,  school-houses,  railroad-cars,  and  steamboats,  there  might 
be  some  excuse  for  our  seeming  parsimony.  But  as  it  is  we  are  prodigals  of 
health,  of  which  we  have  so  little  ; and  niggards  of  air,  of  which  we  have  so 
much”. — Mrs,  Elizabeth  Cady  Stanton,  New  York. 


For  Worms,  give  rue  tea ; for  colic,  catnip  tea. 

Milk  for  the  Use  of  children  should  cool  until  the  animal  heat  is  gone  be- 
fore using. 

Ginger-bread  made  from  oatmeal  instead  of  flour  is  a good  aperient  for 
children. 

While  the  baby  is  down  for  a creep,  draw  little  stocking  legs  over  his  arms, 
and  secure  them  by  a safety-pin. 

Some  babies’  skins  will  not  hear  flannel. — In  this  case  a linen  shirt  should 
be  put  on  first,  and  flannel  over  it. 

Jumping  the  Rope  is  an  injurious  and  dangerous  amusement,  often  result- 
ing in  diseases  of  the  spine  and  brain. 

A baby  should  sleep  on  its  side. — When  lying  on  its  back  the  food  some- 
times rises  in  its  throat  and  chokes  it. 

Eating  snow,  except  in  small  quantities,  is  very  injurious,  producing  ca- 
tarrh, congestion  and  many  other  troubles. 


1104 


SOMETHING  ABOUT  BABIES. 


When  chafed,  squeeze  cold  water  over  the  parts  chafed.  Dry  lightly  with- 
out rubbing,  and  apply  vaseline  or  cold  cream. 

If  a scurf  or  milk-crust  appears  on  the  head,  do  not  apply  water,  but  oil 
at  night  and  brush  over  gently  with  a baby’s  soft  brush. 

DonH  give  the  baby  cordials,  soothing  syrups,  paregoric  and  sleeping- 
drops.  All  such  things  injure  the  constitution  of  the  child. 

No  child  should  go  to  bed  hungry,  but  food  taken  near  the  hours  of  sleep- 
ing should  be  of  the  simplest  nature — a cracker,  a piece  of  bread,  or  a glass 
of  milk. 

Always  hold  a baby  with  feet  next  the  fire,  when  sitting  in  a room  with 
a fire  in  it.  The  old  adage,  “Keep  the  feet  warm  and  the  head  cool,”  means 
a good  deal. 

Great  care  must  be  taken  that  children  are  not  fed  with  milk  that  has 
been  turned  by  a thunder-storm.  The  chemical  change  is  rapid,  and  extra 
caution  is  necessary. 

If  the  children  who  attend  school  are  puny  and  do  not  seem  to  thrive, 
take  them  away  from  school.  Give  the  child  a robust  body,  whether  he  is 
at  the  head  or  tail  of  his  class. 

Parents  should  teach  their  children  to  gargle  their  throats,  for  it  may  be 
the  saving  of  their  lives.  It  is  easier  to  teach  them  this  difficult  and  awkward 
feat  in  health  than  when  prostrated  by  disease. 

For  constipation,  bran  water  is  an  excellent  remedy.  Boil  two  table- 
spoons bran  in  a pint  of  water  for  two  hours,  strain  and  use  as  food.  It  must 
be  made  fresh  every  day,  and  the  fresher  the  better. 

To  cure  the  earache, — Take  a bit  of  cotton  batting,  put  upon  it  a pinch  of 
black  pepper,  gather  it  up  and  tie  it,  dip  it  in  sweet-oil,  and  insert  it  into  the 
ear.  Put  a flannel  bandage  over  the  head  to  keep  it  warm. 

Let  nature  wake  the  children ; she  will  not  do  it  prematurely.  Take  care 
that  they  go  to  bed  at  an  early  hour — let  it  be  earlier  and  earlier,  until  it  is 
found  that  they  wake  up  themselves  in  full  time  to  dress  for  breakfast. 

To  prevent  a child  coughing  at  night,  boil  the  strength  out  of  ten  cents  worth 
of  “seneca  snake  root”  in  one  quart  of  soft  water ; strain  through  a cloth,  boil 
down  to  a pint,  add  one  cup  powdered  sugar  made  into  a thick  molasses. 
(Srive  one  teaspoon  on  going  to  bed. 

Just  before  each  meal  let  the  child  have  some  ripe  fruit  or  some  fruit  sauce. 
Apples  and  berries  are  wholesome.  Oranges  should  never  be  given  to  chil- 
dren unless  the  skin  and  the  thick  white  part  underneath  the  skin  and  be- 
tween the  quarters  is  all  carefully  removed. 

Nearer  let  the  little  children  go  out  of  doors  in  winter  without  being  warimy 
clad.  They  lose  heat  rapidly,  and  easily  contract  throat  and  lung  aflTections. 
Every  child  should  have  full  suits  of  underclothing ; and  especially  let  the 
legs  and  ankles  be  well  protected  with  thick  stockings  and  leggings. 

^ place  your  thumb  on  its  nose,  between  the  eyes,  and 

press  gently  upwards.  It  always  makes  them  swallow.  In  giving  medicine, 
keep  the  point  of  the  spoon  against  the  roof  of  the  mouth  and  they  can’t 
strangle.  But  with  watchful  care  you  will  not  have  to  give  much  medicine. 

Great  care  should  be  taken  to  shade  a baby’s  eyes  from  the  light.  If  a 
strong  light  shines  directly  in  its  face,  it  often  produces  ophthalmia,  an  in- 


SOMETHING  ABOUT  BABIES. 


1105 


flamation  of  the  eyelids,  which  is  troublesome  and  dangerous.  A few  drops 
of  breast-milk,  applied  to  the  eye  and  worked  under  the  lid,  is  very  healing 
to  sore  ej^es. 

A lump  of  sugar,  saturated  with  vinegar,  will  stop  hiccough  when  drink- 
ing water  will  not.  For  babies,  a few  grains  of  sugar  will  often  suffice.  Care 
must  be  taken  in  giving  sugar  to  nursing  babies,  as  it  is  constipating.  Dio 
Lewis  says  feather  pillows  are  death  to  children.  Make  them  of  straw  or 
hair,  and  not  too  large. 

Children  are  often  troubled  with  ulcers  in  the  ears  after  scarlet  fever  and 
other  children’s  diseases:  Roast  onions  in  ashes  until  done,  wrap  in  a strong 
clotli,  and  squeeze  out  juice.  To  three  parts  juice,  add  one  part  laudanum 
and  one  part  sweet-oil,  and  bottle  for  use.  Wash  ear  out  with  warm  water, 
shake  bottle  well,  and  drop  a few  drops  into  the  ear. 

Snuffles  need  not  be  known  in  the  category  of  baby  troubles  if  mothers 
will  have  a camel’s  hair  brush  and  carefully  cleanse  out  baby’s  nose  every 
morning  when  washing  him ; and  also  watch  for  the  little  hard  pieces  that 
form  in  it  and  carefully  take  them  out,  putting  up  a little  oil  to  soften  them, 
or  a little  breast  milk  milked  up  will  cause  the  baby  to  sneeze  and  loosen 
them. 

For  symptoms  of  a cold,  such  as  snuffling,  or  any  slight  hoarseness,  give 
immediately  a warm  foot  bath,  and  then  grease  with  mutton  tallow,  the  nose, 
neck,  chest,  and  feet;  warm  the  feet  well  at  the  fire.  Sweet-oil,  pig’s-foot' 
oil,  or  any  kind  of  good  grease  will  answer  as  well  as  mutton  tallow.  After 
warming  well  put  them  to  bed  and  wrap  up  well.  An  oil-rub,  as  described 
hereafter,  is  one  of  the  best  things  to  give 

Bathe  children  in  the  forenoon  when  possible,  or,  if  not  too  tired,  an  hour 
before  the  evening  meal;  never  for  at  least  an  hour  after  eating.  When  pos- 
sible bathe  before  an  open  fire  or  in  a warm  room  near,  and  rub  dry  before 
un  open  fire.  It  is  injurious  to  bathe  children  on  rising  before  breakfast, 
especially  in  cold  weather.  AVashing  the  face,  neck  and  hands,  and  dress- 
ing, is  enough  before  refreshing  the  body  by  eating. 

Probably  nine  children  out  of  ten  who  die  of  croup  might  be  saved  by  timely 
application  of  roast  onions,  mashed,  laid  upon  a folded  napkin,  an.d  goose- 
oil,  sweet-oil,  or  even  lard,  poured  on  and  applied  as  warm  as  can  be  borne 
comfortably  to  the  throat  and  upper  part  of  the  chest,  and  to  the  feet  and 
i lands,  or  the  onions  may  be  sliced,  boiled  soft  in  water  until  almost  dry, 
l^reese  added,  and  cooked  in  the  greese  until  browned. 

For  sore  mouth  in  nursing  babies,  take  a teaspoon  each  of  puiverized  alum 
and  borax,  half  a salt-spoon  of  pulverized  nut-galls,  a table-spoon  of  honey ; 
mix,  and  pour  on  it  half  a tea-cup  boiling  water ; let  settle,  and  with  a clean 
linen  rag  wash  the  mouth  four  or  five  times  a day,  using  afresh  piece  of  linen 
every  day  ; or  simple  borax  water  is  equally  good.  Half  an  even  teaspoon 
powdered  borax  in  two  tablespoons  soft  water  is  strong  enough,  or  use  sage 
tea  instead  of  the  water,  or  simply  dry  powdered  borax. 

The  Perfect  Night  Dress  is  one  of  the  best  and  safest  night  wear  lor  chil- 
dren. It  is  one  garment,  waist,  sleeves  and  drawers  ending  in  feet  (regular 
stocking  legs  only  fitting  loosely),  can  be  made  of  muslin,  canton  flannel  or 
red  flannel  and  perfectly  protects  their  feet  and  limbs.  Over  this,  in  cold 
weather,  may  be  worn  a flannel  sack.  At  severe  seasons,  instead  of  putting 
an  extra  coverlet  on  the  bed,  we  advise  the  use  of  a large  bag,  made  of  a 
light  blanket,  into  which  the  child  may  be  securely  placed,  and  closely  but- 
toned in  around  neck.  Light  coverings  generally  are  preferable  to  heavy 
ones,  if  the  night  clothing  and  the  room  are  sufficiently  warm,  as  they  do 
not  induce  prespiration  nor  check  exhalations. 

70 


1106 


SOMETHING  ABOUT  BABIES. 


Great  Care  Must  he  Taken  that  the  navel  of  infants  takes  its  proper  place. 
If  not  attended  to  it  is  likely  to  puff  out  and  produce  a breach.  If  it  shows 
any  signs  of  protruding,  round  a piece  of  cork  on  one  side  leaving  it  pointed 
in  the  center,  with  the  top  side  flat,  cover  with  four  or  five  thicknesses  of 
linen,  and  lay  over  the  navel,  fastening  it  to  its  place  by  four  or  five  strips 
of  a porus  plaster  about  an  inch  in  width.  Let  it  remain  a month  or  more,  or 
till  well,  as  it  will  cause  no  inconvenience,  renewing  plaster  if  necessary. 

A Child’s  Pen. — It  is  not  only  troublesome 
but  very  dangerous  for  small  children  just  able 
to  toddle  about  and  get  into  mischief,  to  be  free 
to  go  where  they  please.  The  mother,  if  she  has 
the  care  of  the  house,  can  not  safely  leave  the 
child  for  a moment.  The  pen,  which  the  cut 
represents_,  is  a perfect  protection  for  the  child. 

It  is  too  high  to  climb  over,  it  moves  at  pleasure 
as  the  child  walks  about  on  the  floor,  and  the 
mother  is  comparatively  free  to  leave  it  and  at- 
tend to  other  work.  With  a warm  flannel  blanket  on  the  floor  and  play- 
things, it  will  amuse  itself  a long  time.  A cheaper  substitute  may  be  made 
of  a light  dry-goods  box  without  bottom,  with  casters  attached,  and  a box 
with  bottom  in  with  blankets  in  bottom  is  aji  excellent  place  to  put  a child, 
when  the  mother  is  necessarily  absent  for  a short  time.  It  is  safe  from  harm, 
even  if  it  does  cry. 

See  That  a Child’s  Food  is  well  cooked.  Never  give  a child  new  bread. 
Always  insist  that  a child  thoroughly  masticate  his  food.  Avoid  too  nour- 
ishing a diet  for  a child  of  a violent,  fretful  temper.*  Give  a nourishing  diet 
to  a pale,  white-looking,  delicate  child.  Both  under-feeding  and  over-feed- 
ing are  apt  to  produce  scrofula  or  consumption.  Carefully  study  a child’s 
constitution,  digestive  powers,  teeth,  strength,  and  endeavor  to  proportion 
to  these  the  kind  and  the  quantity  of  its  food.  Sweetmeats  and  confection- 
ery should  only  be  given  to  children  very  sparingly,  if  at  all.  Never  pamper 
or  reward  a child  with  them.  A child  should  never  be  allowed  to  go  to 
sleep  with  damp,  cold  feet.  Neglect  of  this  has  often  resulted  in  dangerous 
attacks  of  croup,  diphtheria,  or  a fatal  sore  throat.  Always  on  entering  the 
house  in  rainy,  muddy,  orthawy  weather,  the  child  should  remove  its  shoes, 
and  the  mother  should  herself  ascertain  whether  the  stockings  are  the  least 
damp.  If  they  are  they  should  be  taken  oflT,  the  feet  held  before  the  fire, 
rubbed  with  hands  until  perfectly  dry,  and  dry  stockings  and  shoes  put  on. 

In  Cleansing  the  Ear.  penetrate  no  deeper  than  you  can  clearly  see. 
Never  scratch  or  inflame  the  entrance  to  the  ear.  The  ear-wax  is  not  dirt, 
and  should  not  be  removed,  at  least  only  that  portion  w^hich  is  plainly  visi- 
ble should  be  disturbed.  Pins  and  scrapers  inserted  in  the  ear  are  injurious. 
The  wax  will  find  its  w^ay  out  when  too  much  is  accumulated.  Scraping  pro- 
duces irritation,  discomfort,  and  calls  for  a repetition,  which  after  a time, 
produces  disease.  Sweet-oil,  glycerine,  etc.,  are  apt  to  clog  the  ear  and 
produce  inflammation.  Syringing  the  ear  with  tepid  water  relieves  itching. 
If  cold  air  gives  pain  a little  wool,  placed  in  the  ear  while  out  of  doors,  will 
protect. 

Food  for  Babes. — Mix  a babe’s  food  or  milk  with  its  due  proportions  of 
sugar,  and  place  the  pitcher  holding  it  in  a deep  plate — a soup  plate  or  pie- 
dish  will  do — and  fill  the  plate  with  cold  water.  Take  a piece  of  thin  mus- 
lin, large  enough  to  cover  the  whole  pitcher  and  reach  down  all  sides  into 
the  water.  Have  no  cover  on  the  pitcher,  wet  the  cloth  and  cover  the  pitcher 
with  it;  put  its  ends  into  the  water,  and  set  the  whole  into  a place  where  a 


SOMETHING  ABOUT  BABIES. 


1107 


draft  of  air  will  pass  over  it.  A mother  tried  the  plan,  and  during  an  exceed- 
ingly hot  summer,  through  the  most  sultry  days  and  nights  of  along  season, 
the  milk  never  turned  at  all.  The  rationale  of  the  thing  is  easy.  The  milk 
is  not  confined  in  a close  vessel,  or  in  danger  of  being  tainted  by  nearness 
to  other,  perhaps  not  wholesome,  food  ; the  thin  gauze  protects  it,  yet  leaves 
it  open ; the  draft  of  air  keeps  the  temperature  down  by  the  constant  evapor- 
ation, while  the  water  is  constantly  sucked  up  by  the  cloth,  acting  like  a 
wick  in  a lamp,  to  supply  the  moisture.  The  pain  of  teething  may  be  almost 
done  aw'ay,  and  the  health  of  the  child  benefitted,  by  giving  it  fine  splinters 
of  ice,  picked  off  with  a pin,  to  melt  in  its  mouth.  The  fragment  is  so  small 
that  it  is  but  a drop  of  warm  water  before  it  can  be  swallowed,  and  the  child 
has  all  the  coolness  for  its  feverish  gums  without  the  slightest  injury.  The 
avidity  with  which  the  little  things  taste  the  cooling  morsel,  the  instant 
quiet  which  succeeds  hours  of  fretfulness,  and  the  sleep  which  follows  the 
relief,  are  the  best  witnesses  to  this  magic  remedy.  Ice  may  be  fed  to  three 
months’  child  this  way,  each  splinter  being  no  longer  than  a common  pin, 
for  five  or  ten  minutes,  the  result  being  that  it  has  swallowed  in  that  time  a 
teaspoonful  of  warm  water,  which  so  far  from  being  a harm,  is  good  for  it, 
and  the  process  may  be  repeated  hourly  as  often  as  the  fretting  fits  from 
teething  begin. 

An  ivory  ring,  a silver  dollar,  or  some  similar  article  should  be  provided 
for  them  to  bite  on.  Give  plenty  of  pure  water  to  drink.  Or  dip  the  end  of 
the  finger  in  cold  water  and  rub  the  inflamed  gums. 

Care  of  Babies. — It  is  not  necessary  to  exclude  light  from  room  when  the 
babe  is  born.  The  admission  of  sunlight  should  be  regulated ; but  a soft 
and  pleasant  light  is  a benefit  to  both  mother  and  child.  The  baby  should 
not  be  carried  into  a glowing  sunshine,  but  should  become  gradually  accus- 
i'.omed  to  the  light. 

For  restlessness  or  colic  in  children,  give  a warm  bath  at  bed-time,  dry 
quickly  with  soft  towels,  and  rub  well  with  the  hand ; dress  loosely,  wrap  in 
llannel  blanket,  warm  and  lay  away  to  sleep,  or  give  three  or  four  swallows 
( )f  warm  water ; place  one  hand  on  stomach  and  one  on  back,  and  give  a 
’lively  trotting.  This  is  better  than  a barrel  of  soothing  syrup.  If  one  “trip 
to  Boston”  on  the  knee  will  not  do,  try  two,  or  three  even,  with  a drink  of 
tvarm  water  before  starting.  For  sore  mouth  or  constipation,  give  three  or 
four  swallows  of  cold  water  the  first  thing  in  the  morning.  This  is  both  a 
preventive  and  a cure  ; or  sweet  flag  which  may  be  obtained  in  a dried  state 
at  any  drug  store,  is  an  excellent  remedy  for  colic  in  children.  Make  a mild 
tea  of  it,  sweeten,  and  give  a teaspoonful  whenever  there  are  signs  of  trouble 
coming  on. 

One  of  the  best  remedies  for  chafing  is  cocoa  butter,  which  may  be  had 
in  cakes  at  any  drug  store.  Warm  slightly,  if  necessary,  and  apply  to  the 
chafed  parts.  Cocoa-nut  oil  is  also  excellent  for  greasing  in  scarlet  fever. 
Among  the  old-fashioned  and  good  remedies  for  the  same  purpose  is  the 
fatty  inside  of  the  rind  of  a smoked  ham. 

For  colds,  hoarseness,  or  indications  of  croup,  slice  raw  onions,  sprinkle 
with  granulated  sugar,  let  stand  until  the  juice  is  extracted  (to  hasten  the 
flow  of  the  juice,  place  in  heater  for  a few  moments),  pour  off  juice,  and  give 
a teaspoonful  every  hour,  or  oftener  if  the  case  is  severe. 

Greasing  the  navel,  bowels,  and  up  and  dowai  spine,  at  night  before  go- 
ing to  bed,  promotes  regular  action  of  the  bowels,  and  cures  constipation. 
If  injections  are  necessary  for  babies,  warm  water  with  a very  little  pure 
soap  dissolved  m it  is  better  than  inserting  a piece  of  hard  soap,  as  is  often 
done.  Small  syringes  with  flexible  tubes,  are  now  made,  and  are  much 
safer  than  the  old  form  of  syringe. 

In  washing  children,  do  not  let  the  water  run  into  the  ears.  Children 
should  never  be  washed  in  a careless,  slipshod  manner.  The  excretions 


1108 


SOMETHING  ABOUT  BABIES. 


and  the  exhalations  of  the  skin  are  often  acrid  enough  to  produce  great  ir- 
ritation and  suffering,  and  careful  washing,  with  liberal  enough  use  of  water 
to  insure  cleanliness,  and  rapid  and  thorough  drying,  removing  every  par- 
ticle of  moisture  in  all  the  crevices  of  the  skin,  and  that  with  a gentle  hand. 
Use  as  little  soap  as  possible,  and  that  the  finest  kind,  and  be  snre  to  wash 
it  off  thoroughly  with  pure  soft  water.  After  the  surface  is  well  dried,  any 
harmless  powder,  such  as  corn  starch,  may  be  used  to  prevent  chafing. 

In  the  case  of  a sick  child,  if  the  skin  is  tender  when  there  is  pressure, 
wash  with  diluted  camphor  water.  Sick  children  should  not  lie  long  in  one 
position,  and  the  bed  should  be  as  smooth  as  possible.  If  there  is  any  dis- 
ease in  the  head,  a hair  pillow  or  one  of  finely  shredded  corn-husks  should 
take  the  place  of  a feather  pillow.  Cool,  salt-water  baths  remove  the  prickly 
heat  that  is  so  annoying  in  summer. 

The  warm  bath,  the  water  being  at  about  the  same  heat  as  the  surface 
of  the  body,  fs  best  for  young  children.  As  they  grow  older  the  bath  may 
be  made  cooler. 

Always  be  able  to  have  fire  in  at  least  one  room  in  the  house,  even  in 
the  warmest  season,  if  there  are  children  in  the  family.  In  the  Northern 
States  there  is  rarely  a month  in  the  year  during  which  there  is  not  an  oc- 
casional day  or  evening  when  fire  would  be  beneficial. 

Children  should  always  jilay  on  the  sunny  side  of  the  yard  or  street  in 
cold  weather.  The  sun- wanned  air  is  what  they  need.  Children  less  than 
four  years  old  ought  not  to  play  out  of  doors  when  the  thermometer  ranges 
lower  than  25°  above  zero. 

To  ventilate  apartments  without  causing  a draft,  raise  the  lower  sash  four 
to  six  inches,  and  place  under  it  a board  perfectly  fitted  to  the  casing,  so  as 
to  shut  out  all  air.  The  cold,  outside  air  then  passes  upward  between  the 
sash,  to  the  upper  part  of  the  room,  and  is  diffused  without  causing  a draft. 
The  night  air  is  not  objectionable,  except  in  malarious  regions.  Indeed,  in 
cities,  the  night  air  is  purer  than  what  is  abroad  by  day.  In  the  hot  season, 
children  should  be  kept  out  of  the  sun  after  ten  o’clock,  and  may  sit  up  later 
than  usual  at  night  to  enjoy  the  cool  evenings.  Excessive  heat  is  as  fatal  as 
excessive  cold.  Keep  the  baby  cool  by  baths,  but  never  put  it  to  sleep  in  a 
room  from  which  the  sunshine  is  constantly  kept.  No  room  can  be  whole- 
some where  sunshine  is  never  admitted. 


AUNT  Martha’s  prescriptions. 


Give  a babe,  one  to  lour  weeks  old,  two  teaspoons  saffron  tea  (made  by 
simmering  a teaspoon  dry  saffron  in  half  a teacup  water),  once  every  other 
day. 

If  troubled  with  colic,  give  catnip  tea  (simmering  half  a teacup  of  cat- 
nip in  boiling  water  to  cover,  strain  and  sweeten)  every  night  before  the 
time  for  colic  to  come  on.  Catnip  should  always  be  gathered  when  in  bloom, 
and  before  dog’ days  , then  dry  in  the  shade.  "When  dried,  place  in  a paper 
sack,  and  hang  ir/a  dry,  cool  place. 

One  teaspoon  of  pure  castor  oil  given  to  a new-born  babe  is  excellent  to 
carry  off  the  phlegm  that  usually  troubles  it. 

Babes  from  one  to  six  months  old  can  safely  be  given  two  teaspoons  of 
castor  oil  at  a tlrue  when  suffering  with  a cold.  Mixing  a teaspoon  of  Orleans 
molasses  with  it  will  prevent  griping. 

A child  ten  months  old,  if  choked  with  a bad  cold,  will  be  speedily  re- 
lieved by  taking  three  teaspoons  of  pure  castor  oil.  Children  are  differently 
affected"by  the  oil,  so  it  is  safe  to  begin  with  one  teaspoon  of  castor  oil,  and 
increase  if  needed. 


SOMETHING  ABOUT  BABIES. 


1109 


In  scarlet  fever,  the  first  symptoms  being  like  a severe  cold,  treat  it  in 
the  same  way ; keep  the  bowels  open  with  castor  oil,  grease  the  throat,  breast, 
and  back  with  pig’s  feet  oil,  goose  grease,  lard,  or  smoked  ham  rinds,  or  the 
fryings  of  salt  pork  or  bacon.  Grease  very  thoroughly.  If  the  throat  is 
sore,  chop  salt  fat  pork  and  raw  onions  together  like  hash,  put  them  in  a 
sack,  warm  a little,  and  tie  round  the  throat.  Change  this  poultice  when 
needed,  but  keep  it  on  until  the  throat  is  entirely  well.  This  poultice  is 
much  better  than  those  made  of  hot  water,  as  there  is  no  danger  of  taking 
cold  in  changing  it. 

To  prevent  catching  contagious  diseases,  put  a small  lump  each  of  cam- 
phor gum,  brimstone  and  assafetida  in  a little  sack,  and  tie  around  the  body 
with  a tape. 

An  excellent  cough  remedy  is  made  as  follows.  Take  enough  of  hore- 
hound  to  fill  a three  pint  cup,  pour  soft  water  over  it  until  full,  let  it  simmer 
until  all  the  strength  is  extracted  (keep  the  tin  full)  then  strain ; to  three 
pints  of  this  tea  add  a pint  of  pure  whisky  and  enough  of  loaf  sugar  to  make 
a syrup ; dose,  tablespoon  half  hour  before  eating,  and  the  last  thing  before 
retiring.  This  dose  is  for  an  adult.  For  ten-year-old  child,  give  half. 

A good  remedy  for  colic  is  tincture  of  assafetida  ; take  a lump  the  size  oi 
a hulled  walnut,  cover  it  with  an  ounce  of  pure  whiskey  (in  fourteen  days  it 
is  tincture,  but  in  a few  days  it  will  be  strong  enough  to  use  ) Begin  with 
one  drop  in  sweetened  water,  if  the  child  is  very  young,  and  increase  as  re- 
quired. Give  this  to  the  child  an  hour  before  the  time  for  the  colic  to  begin. 
If  a child  is  given  this,  as  it  grows  older,  each  morning  a few  drops,  it  will 
not  be  troubled  with  worms. 

In  croup,  redden  the  throat  and  chest  by  ru  Doing  with  a mixture  of  one- 
half  tablespoon  each  of  camphor  and  turpentine  and  one  tablespoon  each  of 
coal  oil  and  sweet  oil.  Wet  a warm  fiannel  with  this,  and  apply  to  the  throat 
and  neck  for  a few  minutes,  watching  closely  so  as  to  remove  it  when  the 
skin  is  vrell  reddened.  No  time  can  be  given,  as  some  skins  are  more  sensi- 
tive than  others.  This  outward  irritation  tends  to  prevent  croup. 

For  worms  in  children  (these  do  not  appear  until  after  the  child  begins 
to  eat  other  food  than  its  mother’s  milk),  give  one-eighth  of  a teaspoonful  of 
santonin  mixed  with  a little  sugar  and  a drop  or  two  of  water,  once  every 
three  hours ; continue  for  six  doses.  Follow  with  a dose  of  castor  oil  to 
which  has  been  added  five  drops  of  spirit  of  turpentine.  The  above  is  a dose 
for  a child  of  one  year  old ; for  older  children,  increase  the  dose  somewhat. 
Pumpkin-seed  tea  is  also  a good  remedy  for  worms,  and  entirely  harmless. 
All  remedies  for  worms  must  be  taken  on  an  empty  stomach. 

Luckily  for  the  rising  generation,  fashion  recognizes  the  necessity  for 
protection  of  the  neck  and  arms  of  infants,  and  while  the  infant  wears  long 
slips  the  feet  are  fairly  well  protected  in  the  summer,  but  if  they  seem  in  the 
least  cold  to  the  hand,  soft  woolen  socks  should  be  put  on.  When  short 
clothes  are  put  on,  longer  socks  should  take  the  place  of  the  short  ones.  No 
pains  should  be  spared  to  keep  the  legs  and  feet  warm  in  both  summer  and 
winter.  “Keep  the  feet  warm  and  the  head  cool,”  is  an  old  but  wise  max- 
im. If  the  opposite  condition  exists,  look  out  for  serious  illness.  In  winter 
let  the  baby  wear  warmly  lined  shoes,  chosen  for  comfort  and  not  for  show. 
The  care  of  the  extremities  is  very  important,  and  the  baby  should  never  be 
allowed  to  go  with  cold  hands.  The  baby  creeping  about,  and  the  children 
playing  on  the  floor,  are  exposed  to  all  the  drafts  that  enter  through  the  crev- 
ices of  the  walls.  The  cold  air  immediately  seeks  the  floor,  and  a grown 
person  has  only  to  lie  down  on  the  carpet  in  the  vicinity  of  a window  or  door 
to  be  convinced  of  the  source  of  many  a cold  and  sore  throat.  Weather-strips 
in  rooms  where  children  play  much,  are  useful ; in  their  absence,  paste  a strip 


1110 


SOMETHING  ABOUT  BABIES. 


of  paper  across  where  the  lower  sash  fits  into  the  casing,  and  get  ventilation 
by  the  upper  sash.  If  doors  swing  inward,  a heavj^  rug  may  be  placed  against 
it  outside,  or  an  old  garment.  Add  to  all  these  precautions  warm  clothing. 
When  children  are  large  enough  to  play  out  of  doors  in  cold  weather,  good 
woolen  leggins  should  be  worn.  In  rainy  weather,  the  light  gossamer  rub- 
ber cloth,  which  may  be  bought  by  the  yard  and  made  at  home,  makes  ex- 
cellent protection  from  wet,  and  yet  is  not  a burden.  If  replaced  by  a woolen 
garment  in  dry  weather,  no  harm  may  result.  Every  school-girl  should  have 
a circular  cape  of  this  material.  Let  no  desire  to  have  your  childreii  in  fash- 
ion induce  you  to  send  them  out  with  less  clothing  for  the  feet  and  legs  than 
would  be  required  to  make  a grown  person  comfortable.  The  scanty  clothing 
of  the  lower  limbs  brings  on  repeated  attacks  of  croup  and  various  diseases 
of  the  throat  and  lungs.  Not  onlj^  is  this  true,  but  the  low  temperature  and 
imperfect  circulation  of  the  blood  prevents  the  development  of  the  paits  ex- 
posed and  brings  on  a race  of  fashionable,  but  spindle-shanked  children. 
Don’t  be  deceived  by  the  prevailing  idea  that  children  of  the  extremely  poor, 
that  are  half  cared  for,  and  of  parents  who  habitually  neglect  them,  are 
“healthy.”  Among  this  very  class  Death  makes  the  heaviest  harvest ; and 
those  who  live  are  stunted  by  neglect  in  spite  of  the  extra  hardiness  of  con- 
stitution. Of  course,  to*  remove  the  ordinary  clothing  and  substitute  lighter 
for  a party  or  a heated  audience-room,  is  the  height  of  imprudence.  At  the 
close  of  such  an  occasion,  plenty  of  wraps  should  be  provided  against  the 
exposure  to  the  cold  air  when  over  heated.  Young  children  had  best  vmar 
flannel  underclothing  the  whole  year.  When  sudden  changes  take  place  to 
colder  weather,  see  that  the  children  have  additional  protection  before  they 
take  cold. 

Loncj  Clothes. — A proper  dress  for  an  infant,  is  a bandage  of 
soft  flannel,  put  on  loosely  about  the  body,  a knit  woolen  shirt,  a pinning- 
blanket,  made  of  a piece  of  soft  white  flannel,  three-fourths  of  a yard  square, 
and  taken  up  about  one  fourth  of  a yard  at  the  top  by  a single  box-pleat,  three 
inches  wide,  and  caught  together  on  the  wrong  side  for  about  three  inches 
from  the  top.  On  each  side  of  the  box-pleat  make  a small  pleat,  to  be  let 
out  as  the  infant  grows.  The  flannel  should  be  bound  with  silk  binding  be- 
fore pleating,  pinned  on  with  safety  pins  next  the  flannel  shirt : a waist  with 
arm-holes  but  no  sleeves,  buttoned  behind  with  one  small  flat  button,  and 
having  on  the  bottom  one  button  in  front,  one  on  each  side,  one  in  center  of 
back,  and  one  an  inch  and  a half  on  each  side  of  the  last-named.  The  skirt 
is  fastened  to  these  buttons.  The  three  buttons  behind  serve  this  purpose. 
When  child  is  small,  each  end  is  carried  past  the  center  button  to  the  ones 
an  inch  and  a half  beyond  it,  but  as  the  child  grows  and  needs  more  room, 
the  ends  are  brought  together  at  the  center  button.  The  skirt  is  made  of 
flannel,  seven-eights  of  a yard  long.  The  dress,  which  should  be  about  one 
yard  loiig,  may  be  made  of  any  white  material.  Add  to  this  a pair  of  soft 
knit  socks,  and  the  dress  is  complete.  A modest  wardrobe  should  comprise  * 
two  knit  shirts,  three  pinning-blankets,  four  bandages  of  different  sizes,  three 
flannel  skirts,  three  wmists,  six  muslin  slips,  six  dresses  of  different  patterns 
but  about  the  same  in  regard  to  warmth,  or  better,  of  same  material,  checked 
or  striped  goods,  and  differently  trimmed,  two  finer  dresses,  which  maj^  be 
made  a little  longer  for  style,  though  the  weight  is  objectionable  as  a burden 
to  the  child,  two  pairs  of  short  socks,  and  as  the  child  grows  older,  two  pairs 
of  knit  boots,  and  two-dozen  diapers  (cotton  are  best,  having  more  absorbing 
capacity  than  linen,)  one  yard  long,  and  for  the  first,  about  five-eights  of  a 
yard  wide.  Fold  the  inside  one  once  from  end  to  end,  and  pin  one  side  with 
safety  pins  to  the  flannel  band,  allowing  it  to  hang  down  to  protect  the  legs. 
When  short  dresses  are  put  on,  fold  the  outside  diaper  as  directed  above, 
a^d  use  one  of  lighter  material,  or  an  old  thin  one  for  the  inside.  Fold  the 


SOMETHING  ABOUT  BABIES. 


1111 


latter,  end  to  end  once,  and  then  once  more  in  the 
same  direction.  ' The  outside  one  is  now  in  three-cor- 
nered shape ; lay  it  down  with  point  toward  you,  lay  the 
other  over  it,  as  represented  in  diagram,  and  they  are 
ready  to  put  on.  Fortnight  use,  wear  a bandage,  at 
pinning  blanket,  and  a flannel  night  dress,  made  with 
sleeves  long  enough  to  gather  in  with  a string  over  the 
hands.  Of  course  no  garment  should  be  worn  at  night 
that  has  been  worn  during  the  day. 

Short  Clothes. — A warm  suit  for  first  short  clothes  of  baby  during  first 
winter  is  as  follows : A knit  flannel  shirt,  a loose  flannel  bandage  about 
the  body,  over  the  bowels  (an  excellent  protection  against  summer  com- 
plaints, if  continued  through  the  next 
summer),  a skirt  of  opera  flannel  with 
a muslin  waist,  with  two  rows  of  but- 
tons (four  in  each  row),  about  an  inch 
apart,  one  to  support  the  skirt  and  the 
other  for  the  diaper  drawers,  which  are 
made  of  the  same  flannel  as  the  skirt. 

The  accompanying  cuts  will  explain 

clearly  the  manner  in  which  these  are  made.  This  useful 
garment,  either  in  flannel  or  muslin,  may  and  should  be  worn 
from  the  time  short  clothes  are  put  on  until  diapers  are  left 
off*  or  even  longer.  The  cut  on  left  hand  of  page  gives  the  form  of  garment, 
when  taken  off.  The  one  on  the  right,  the  same  garment  when  put  on  and 
buttoned  up.  The  dress  should  be  of  the  same  material,  and  color  as  the 
skirt  and  drawers,  and  cut  in  Gabrielle  style,  with  long  sleeves.  Over  this 
wear  a wfliite  dress  of  Nainsook,  made  plain  or  elaborate,  as  may  be  desired. 
In  summer,  this  suit  of  skirt,  drawers,  and  dress,  made  in  Silicia,  with  the 
overdress  of  white,  is  a safe  and  comfortable  dress  for  a child,  and  not  easily 
soiled. 


AUNT  EVA’s  way. 

This  is  the  idea  to  start  with — that  we  are  dealing  with  little  people.  To 
le  sure  they  are  fearfully  and  wonderfully  made,  but  only  in  the  same  sense 
IS  their  parents.  As  many  of  these  same  parents  do  not  understand  the  first 
principles  of  caring  for  themselves,  we  are  obliged  to  begin  at  the  beginning. 
It  is  important  in  the  life  of  a child  to  begin  right.  The  treatment  many  a 
babe  receives  during  the  first  hours  of  its  life  causes  it  to  be  a puny,  suffer- 
ing infant,  giving  it  a constitution  predisposed  to  disease.  The  first  thing  fs 
to  protect  the  sensitive  darling  from  exposure . There  must  be  absolutely 
no  exposure  to  chill.  This  is  easily  done  by  plenty  of  soft,  warm  flannels — 
a dozen  pieces  or  more,  some  of  which  need  be  quite  shawls.  When  needed, 
they  must  be  full  of  fire  warmth,  full  as  they  can  hold,  no  matter  if  it  is  a 
warm  August  night.  When  the  child  needs  attention,  make  the  physician 
take  a large  piece  of  this  and  cover  it  instantly.  He  can  do  his  whole  duty 
with  the  child  well  covered.  Never  use  water  for  the  first  bath,  but  sweet 
oil ; I prefer  the  oil  of  sweet  cream,  made  by  simmering  cream  in  a shallow 
dish  on  the  stove  until  the  oil  separates,  to  be  applied  with  a soft  piece  of 
warm  flannel.  If  care  is  used  in  removing  the  oil,  you  will  be»surprised  to 
see  how  sweet  the  little  one  looks ; on  no  account  use  water  on  the  child  until 
it  is  well  climatized,  say  twenty-four  to  forty-eight  hours.  When  the  babe 
screams  through  its  first  toilet  operation,  it  is  either  cold  or  frightened.  De- 
sist at  once,  and  fold  it  closely  in  its  warm  wrappings,  making  sure  that  noth- 
ing soiled  or  damp  is  touching  it.  Let  the  little  head  be  cared  for  first,  then 


1112 


SOMETHING  ABOUT  BABIES. 


one  arm,  and  so  on,  keeping  the  rest  of  the  body  carefully  covered.  After 
having  the  oil  well  applied,  I would  rather  my  child  would  lie  a week  with 
only  its  flannel  wrappings  than  be  dressed  while  screaming,  but  if  you  go 
right  so  far  you  will  have  no  trouble. 

Its  clothing  can  be  any  thing  that  is  warm  enough  and  loose  enough. 
Don’t  pin  it  up  as  if  it  was  to  be  used  to  play  ball  with,  and  was  in  danger 
of  getting  tumbled  to  pieces.  It  is  not  even  to  be  handled  much,  but  laid 
away  to  rest  as  long  as  it  will,  and  kept  still ; don’t  let  some  loving  soul  keep 
it  swaying  around.  If  it  acts  like  waking  up  or  is  uneasy,  pass  your  hands 
carefully  under  it,  and  gently  turn  it  on  its  other  side. 

Its  food,  first  and  only,  at  present  is  that  which  God  has  so  wisely  pro- 
vided ; this  is  all  that  it  needs,  even  if  it  gets  but  a few  drops  at  a time.  If  it 
cannot  be  satisfied  without  w'orrying  the  mother  too  much,  a little — a very 
little — fresh  cow’s  milk  can  be  used  with  pure  sugar  and  one-third  water- 
Always  remember  this — the  milk  of  a “farrow  cow”  will  kill  a young  Zam6 
just  as  sure  as  it  enters  its  stomach. 

I do  not  think  it  wise  to  insist  on  regular  feeding  times  for  nursing  in  - 
fants,  or  as  long  as  milk  is  the  chief  sustenance.  There  are  many  days  when 
the  healthiest  of  children  are  fretful.  Their  gums  begin  to  swell  younger 
than  is  generally  supposed.  There  is  nothing  more  soothing  than — well, 
just  let  the  little  pet  have  its  own  way  ; it  will  prove  to  you  when  it  is  most 
comfortable.  A baby  never  cries  when  it  is  comfortable  ; when  it  cries  it 
asks  for  something ; put  yourself  in  its  place  and  maybe  you  can  come  near  to 
the  understanding.  Many  of  its  sufferings  are  caused  by  unwise  changes  in 
its  clothing.  You  give  it  a slight  cold  by  your  own  thoughtlessness ; then 
for  heaven’s  sake  don’t  give  it  some  soothing  syrup  to  weaken  its  digestion, 
and  render  it  liable  to  be  hurt  by  all  food  except  the  simplest.  My  oldest 
boy  is  a victim  to  soothing  medicines.  He  must  be  so  careful  through  water- 
melon and  fruit  season,  or  he  will  be  sick  all  the  time  ; but  four  others,  all 
])ast  five  years  old,  who  never  took  as  much  as  a cup  of  sage-tea,  of  medicine, 
can  digest  anything.  My  remedy  for  most  of  the  ailments  of  children  is  fire 
warmth. 

For  colic,  unpin  the  little  one’s  clothing  so  that  the  fire  can  shine  clear 
to  its  arm-pits,  warming  your  own  hand  and  pressing  it  gently  over  the  rest- 
less little  squirmer.  This  will  either  prevent  or  cure  almost  any  thing.  If 
it  seems  very  sick,  its  head  hot,  you  must  watch  that ; I never  k^iew  a child 
to  go  into  fits  unless  its  head  was  hot  and  its  hands  and  feet  cold.  In  this 
case  bathe  the  little  feet  in  warm  water  ; and,  if  it  is  summer,  get  the  leaves 
t)f  horse-radish,  or  a plant  of  that  nature,  roll  and  wilt  them,  and  bind  on 
the  soles  of  the  feet  and  in  the  palms  of  the  hands ; not  to  blister,  only  to 
keep  moist  and  warm.  If  you  cannot  get  the  green  leaves,  ginger  on  Vet 
wmrm  cloths  will  do.  Then  keep  the  head  wet,  and  keep  every  one  from  the 
room  but  the  one  whom  the  child  wishes  to  take  care  of  it.  Give  water  or 
milk — whichever  the  child  prefers  ; or,  if  not  weaned,  let  it  nurse  all  it  wish- 
es, no  matter  if  it  keeps  throwing  it  up — that  is  nature’s  provision  for  nurs- 
ing babies.  It  is  ready  now  to  be  soothed  to  sleep,  and  will  generally  waken 
with  a gentle  perspiration.  When  you  think  you  must  give  some  "kind  of 
warm  tea,  give  pure  warm  water  that  has  been  boiled ; it  is  the  best  hot  drink 
for  either  mother  or  child  in  pain. 

My  mother  was  once  taken  three  miles  on  a cold  winter’s  night  to  see  a 
young  infant  that  they  feared  was  going  into  fits.  It  screamed  and  strug- 
gled and  fought  for  breath,  while  its  young  mother,  pale  with  fear,  was  walk- 
ing the  house  crying  too.  “Why,”  said  mother,  “the  child  has  only  got  the 
‘snuffles,’  bring  me  a little  soft  grease.”  She  rubbed  the  nose  gently  until 
the  child  was  partially  relieved.  Being  quite  a bad  case,  she  advised  the 


SOMETHING  ABOUT  BABIES. 


1113 


mother  to  milk  a stream  of  breast-milk  into  the  nostril ; she  did  so,  the  child 
sneezed  three  or  four  times  and  dropped  asleep  in  two  minutes.  This  is  also 
all  that  is  needed  for  weak  or  sore  eyes  in  an  infant — breast  milk. 

For  sore  mouth,  a weak  solution  of  borax ; but  your  child  will  not  have 
sore  mouth  or  any  other  disease,  if  you  folloAV  these  directions  and  your  own 
good  sense  ; and  remember  that  soothing  syrups  are  the  lazy  mother’s  cure. 
It  is  so  much  easier  to  put  a child  to  sleep  *than  to  bathe  it  and  warm  it  and 
nurse  it  weh. 

For  croup,  take  sweet  hog’s  lard  and  tincture  of  camphor  or  camphor 
gum  and  simmer  together  a short  time  ; gum  the  size  of  a pea  to  a tablesi30on 
of  lard;  keep  it  in  the  house  prepared,  and  rub  on  the  throat  at  first  symp- 
tom. This  will  relieve  any  hard  cough  almost  instantly  ; if  it  does  not,  mix 
one  teaspoon  of  it  with  a tablespoon  of  molasses,  and  take  inwardly.  If  you 
are  called  to  a child  too  bad — too  far  gone — for  these  simple  remedies,  put  it 
in  a warm  bath  as  quick  as  it  can  be  prepared. 

For  whooping-cough,  encourage  the  child  to  eat  sour  fruits,  either  cooked 
or  raw,  or  both,  all  it  wishes  This  keeps  the  system  cool,  the  bowels  open-, 
and  the  throat  clear. 

In  weaning  your  darling,  be  sure  you  have  plenty  of  suitable  food  in  th<  t 
house  that  the  baby  is  fond  of.  First  teach  baby  to  go  to  sleep  withou  I" 
nursing ; after  he  has  become  accustomed  to  this,  teach  him  to  do  without  U 
during  the  day,  and  to  go  to  sleep  at  bed-time  ; then  let  him  nurse  all  h«<', 
wishes  through  the  rest  of  the  night,  only  being  careful  to  leaA^e  the  bed  be- 
fore he  awakens  in  the  morning.  Let  him  nurse  this  way  for  several  weeks, 
that  the  change  of  living  may  not  be  too  sudden.  I have  weaned  thre^f 
children  in  this  way  without  a single  crying  spell  and  no  one  about  th(/ 
house  knew  about  it. 

The  family  physician  is  a great  blessing — more  so  than  his  medicine 
'Never  fail  to  call  him  in  time,  if  the  disease  proves  stubborn ; but  let  him 
understand  that  you  wish  advice  as  to  nursing,  and  not  his  medicine,  un- 
less it  is  very  necessaay.  Most  people  think  if  a doctor  leaves  no  drugs  be- 
hind his  visit  is  so  much  lost  money ; doctors  understand  this,  and  leave 
medicine  whether  necessary  or  not.  As  your  child  conquers  one  trifling  ail- 
ment after  another  and  grows  in  health  and  beauty,  you  will  gradually  gain 
a confidence  in  nature  that  will  be  a great  rock  of  defense  for  a parent  of  a 
growing  family ; if  you  will  obey  her  laws  she  will  never  disappoint  you. 

The  regular  meals,  so  necessary  to  the  health  and  comfort  of  a family, 
must  be  regular.  If  you  insist  on  the  children  only  eating  at  their  meals, 
don’t  sit  and  sew,  or  visit,  with  hunger  gnawing  at  their  vitals.  I think  it 
safest  to  allow  growing  children  to  have  a piece  between  meals,  if  they  are 
hungry  enough  to  eat  dry,  light  bread ; no  butter  to  grease  things,  or  molas- 
ses or  milk  to  tempt  them  to  eat  more  than  they  need  for  necessary  support. 
The  only  trouble,  I find,  is  they  soon  get  to  be  too  fond  of  the  crusts  and 
^‘pudding  pieces.” 

The  care  of  the  feet  is  the  great  picket  post  after  the  child  begins  to  run 
alone.  Watch,  watch  the  little  feet  that  no  damp  or  chill  is  creeping  up  to 
chill  the  vitals.  A pair  of  warm  stockings  to  each  pair  of  restless  feet  must 
be  kept  by  the  stove  in  all  damp  or  cold  weather,  and  never  let  a child  stop 
a moment  its  active  play  until  you  know  whether  its  feet  are  warm  and  dry. 
You  had  better  change  feet-covering  four  or  fi^^e  times  a day  during  those 
delightful,  treacherous  spring  days,  than  to  watch  a sick  bed  and  loose  your 
darling  at  last.  This  is  v hat  neglect  of  the  feet  often  brings  the  little  ones 
to.  I know  the  task  I r.m  enjoining  on  mothers  and  nurses.  I have  had 
twenty-three  pairs  of  shyckiBgs  hanging  around  my  cook-stove  at  once,  each 


1114 


SOMBTHING  ABOUT  BABIES. 


pair  in  daily  use  for  exchanges.  But  I do  not  know  what  it  is  to  lose  a child, 
or  hardly  a night’s  rest,  and  we  have  raised  six  from  babyhood.  Never  let 
them  go  to  bed  without  having  their  feet  all  aglow  with  warmth  to  their 
knees  from  the  bright  fire  shining  upon  them.  This  is  my  hobby;  fire- 
warmth.  It  will  cure  ear-ache,  stomach-ache,  head-ache,  leg-ache ; pre- 
vent neuralgia,  white-swellings,  rheumatic  pains,  indigestion.  Yes,  I’m  a 
‘‘fire  worshiper,”  and  you  will  be  after  you  have  tried  its  virtues  on  your- 
gelf  and  children  faithfully  for  twenty  years. 

In  conclusion,  my  theory  is  incessant  watchfulness  of  first  symptoms — 
prevention  rather  than  cure.  But  let  no  untried  mother  feel  discouraged; 
the  care  of  a babe  is  no  trouble  to  a true  mother.  As  often  as  it  needs  at- 
tention, so  often  do  her  eyes  long  for  a sight  of  the  sweet  dimpled  fiesh,  the 
dainty  limbs  ; the  loving  touch  of  the  little  hands  upon  her  neck  has  more 
than  mesmeric  power.  And  after  all  is  done  for  them,  if  they  seem  to  you 
to  be  growing  coarse  and  unlovely,  smile  upon  them  oftener,  kiss  them,  caress 
them.  Don’t  let  the  pressing  duties  of  the  younger  ones  lead  you  to  neglect 
the  older  ones.  If  a child  once  learns  to  be  without  mother’s  caresses  yov’ 
can  never  again  make  them  necessary  to  that  child. 

Teething. — When  first  signs  of  teeth  appear,  salivary  glands  are  so  fa’' 
developed  that  the  secretion  of  saliva  is  large,  and  “drooling”  is  noticed. 
This  saliva  moistens  the  gums  and  softens  them,  so  that  the  coming  teeth 
make  their  way  through  with  less  difficulty.  At  this  time  an  ivory,  coral  or 
hard  rubber  ring  is  useful.  There  is  a sensation  in  the  gums  which  the 
child  tries  to  relieve  by  biting.  Later,  when  the  gum  is  inflamed  and  sore, 
a soft  suostance  is  better  than  hard.  If  the  gum  is  much  swollen,  and  there 
are  symptoms  of  thirst  and  fever  and  flushed  cheeks,  the  child  should  be 
seen  by  a physician.  There  may  be  something  more  serious  than  teething. 
If  the  case  is  mild,  soothing  applications  such  as  honey  of  roses,  borax  and 
honey,  and  syrup  of  gum  arabic  will  relieve.  If  bowels  are  constipated  an 
injection  may  be  given,  or  even  a mild  laxative,  with  a warm  foot-bath  at 
bed-time.  Lancing  of  the  gums  is  sometimes  necessary,  and  is  harmless  and 
not  painful  if  done  skilfully  and  at  the  proper  time.  Rubbing  the  gums  with 
a thimble  is  very  harsh  treatment.  As  children  grow  older  teeth  should  be 
washed  carefully  and  examined  by  a dentist  at  two  years  old  or  sometimes 
sooner,  knew  a case  of  teeth  being  temporarily  filled  at  one.  The  good  care 
taken  of  the  first  teeth  greatly  effects  the  second  set.  After  the  first  twenty 
come,  the  next  four  are  permanent  and  must  be  well  cared  for.  The  last  four 
of  the  twenty  should  be  well  guarded  in  order  to  keep  them  till  new  teeth 
come,  thus  to  preserve  a good  shaped  mouth. 

Indigestion. — When  a child  falls  ill,  a good  many  charge  it  to  “worms.” 
The  real  cause  of  the  trouble  is  generally  indigestion,  which  causes  an  in- 
creased secretion  of  mucus,  and  this  makes  a harbor  for  worms,  which  in 
themselves  do  not  produce  irritation,  unless  they  exist  in  great  numbers. 
Bottle-fed  children  oftener  suffer  from  indigestion  than  others.  The  indica- 
tions are  pining,  peevishness,  constipation  or  diarrhea,  a sour  breath,  etc. 
These  may  result  from  overfeeding  or  from  unsuitable  food.  Overfeeding  is 
most  frequent.  If  the  stomach  is  not  able  to  digest  the  food  it  will  irritate 
the  bowelB  and  produce  diarrhea.  The  summer  diarrhea  of  children  begins 
with  indigestion,  which  weakens  the  system,  and  makes  it  sensitive  to  hot 
weather.  The  proper  color  for  passage  from  the  bowels  in  infancy  is  yellow. 
In  cases  of  indigestion  the  color  is  greenish,  or,  if  yellow  when  passed,  soon 
becomes  green.  In  diarrhea  they  are  offensive  and  greenish,  or  even  a 
bright  green.  The  point  is  to  find  out  the  cause  of  the  trouble  and  correct 
it  in  the  early  stages  of  the  disease. 


SOMETHING  ABOUT  BABIES. 


1115 


Where  an  infant  sleeps,  light  and  noise  should  be  excluded. 

The  daily  increase  in  weight  of  a healthy  infant  is  from  a quarter  to 
three-quarters  of  an  ounce. 

Bathing  ought  not  to  be  neglected  for  a single  day.  It  ought  to  be  re- 
garded as  a sacred  maternal  duty. 

The  hair  should  be  kept  short  during  infancy  and  childhood.  Iso  finer 
hftads  of  hair  are  ever  seen  than  those  on  girls  whose  hair  has  been  cropped 
close,  boy-fashion,  until  ten  years  old. 

No  more  dangerous  humbug  was  ever  taught  than  that  malt  liquors  or 
wine  was  necessary  or  healthful  for  a nursing  woman. 

Sugar  should  always  be  an  addition  to  less  palatable  food,  and  never 
given  alone. 

A strict  observance  of  the  laws  of  health  will  strengthen  a good  consti- 
tution and  improve  a bad  one. 

Diarrhea  in  nursing  children  is  always  the  result  in  a change  in  the 
composition  of  the  milk,  from  whatever  cause. 

The  period  of  weaning  should  be  fixed  between  twelve  and  fiftee-i? 
months,  beginning  by  ceasing  to  give  the  breast  at  night. 

Children  should  not  sleep  with  sickly  persons  or  with  those  of  advanced 

age. 

A young  child  should  not  be  awakened  suddenly,  nor  by  any  rude  mo 
tion  or  loud  noise. 

Pulling  roughly,  trotting,  swinging  from  side  to  side,  and  all  rude  pla} 
of  this  sort  does  no  good  and  may  do  great  harm. 

A wise  mother,  who  has  a cheerful  disposition  herself  and  performs  well 
her  duties  as  nurse,  will  have  no  good  reason  to  complain  that  her  time  is  all 
occupied  by  day  and  her  rest  disturbed  by  night. 

A Young  Mother  writes  : “I  have  a little  boy  seven  years  old,  and  a little 
girl  of  four.  I have  never  had  the  trouble  of  some  young  mothers,  simply 
because  I was  regular  with  them  from  their  birth.  They  never  slept  with 
me  but  in  a crib  at  the  side  of  my  bed.  I had  the  crib  lined  so  as  to  pre- 
vent a draught,  and  tucked  their  covers  tightly  over  their  feet  and  fastened 
them  at  the  top  with  large  safety  pins  to  the  pillow — then  they  can  not  throw 
them  off  to  take  cold.  I never  nursed  my  babies  more  than  twice  in  the 
night  and  often  but  once  ; they  slept  better  being  alone.  In  the  morning  I 
nursed  baby,  and  once  between  breakfast  and  dinner,  and  again  between 
dinner  and  supper,  also  right  after  dinner  was  over,  at  regular  hours  every- 
day. If  they  got  hungry  between  times,  they  were  fed  bread  and  milk. 
After  supper,  the  little  ones  were  undressed,  rubbed  well,  back  and  limbs, 
flannel  nightgown  put  on, then  nursedand  put  to  bed,  and  they  seldom  awoke 
before  twelve  o’clock ; so  I had  the  evening  for  reading  and  practicing.  In 
the  morning  they  were  taken  up,  bathed  in  warm  water,  dressed,  nursed, 
and  given  a nap  of  two  hours.  In  the  afternoon  they  were  put  to  sleep  at 
one  o’clock,  and  they  would  sleep  till  three.  I think  no  mother  should  nurse 
her  baby  after  it  is  a year  old  ; it  breaks  the  mother  down  and  does  baby  no 
good.  As  my  children  grew  out  of  babyhood  I still  kept  them  regular  in 
their  habits.  They  get  up  in  the  morning  at  seven  o’clock,  wash,  dress  and 
eat  breakfast,  drinking  milk  instead  of  coffee,  play  ah  the  morning  and  eat 
a hearty  dinner.  At  one  o’clock  they  are  put  in  a batb.,  their  night  clothes 
put  on,  and  put  to  bed.  They  sleep  till  three  or  half  past,  then  are  dressed 
cleanly.  At  half-past  five  they  eat  a light  supper,  au  i in  summer  time  at 
eight,  and  in  winter  time  at  half-past  six,  are  put  to  bed.  Two  healthier 
children  will  be  hard  to  find ; they  never  eat  between  meals,  unless  it  is  an 


1116 


SOMETHING  ABOUT  BABIES. 


apple,  and  never  want  anything  else,  but  eat  heartily  at  the  table.  I think 
if  some  young  mothers  will  try  my  plan  they  will  say  there  is  no  need  of 
half-sick  and  cross  children,  caused  by  eating  at  all  hours  and  being  up  late 
at  night.” 

Milk  For  Babies. — The  following  is  one  mode  of  preparing  the  milk:  Al- 
low one-third  of  a pint  of  new  milk  to  stand  for  about  twelve  hours,  remove 
the  cream  and  add  to  it  two-thirds  of  a pint  of  new  milk,  as  fresh  from  the 
cow  as  possible.  Into  the  one-third  of  a pint  of  blue  milk  left  after  the  ab- 
straction of  the  cream,  put  a piece  of  rennet  about  one  inch  square.  Set  the 
vessel  in  warm  water  until  the  milk  is  fully  curdled,  an  operation  requiring 
from  five  to  fifteen  minutes,  according  to  the  activity  of  the  rennet,  which 
should  be  removed  as  soon  as  the  curdling  commences,  and  put  into  an  egg 
cup  for  use  on  subsequent  occasions,  as  it  maybe  employed  daily  for  a month 
or  two.  Break  up  the  curd  repeatedly,  and  carefully  separate  the  whole  of 
the  whey,  which  should  then  be  rapidly  heated  to  boiling  in  a small  tin  pan 
placed  over  a spirit  or  gas  lamp.  During  the  heating  a further  quantity  of 
casein,  technically  called  ‘fleetings’,  separates,  and  must  be  removed  by 
strainiilg  through  muslin.  Now  dissove  110  grains  of  powdered  sugar  of 
milk  in  the  hot  whey,  and  mix  it  with  the  two-thirds  of  a pint  of  new  milk  to 
which  the  cream  from  the  other  third  of  a pint  was  added  as  already  de- 
scribed. The  artificialjmilk  should  be  used  within  twelve  hours  of  its  prep- 
aration, and  it  is  almost  needless  to  add  that  all  the  vessels  emplo5mdin  its 
manufacture  and  administration  should  be  kept  scrupulously  clean.  Where 
pure  milk  is  used  without  the  preparation  above,  give  for  first  five  days,  two 
tablespoons  cream  to  a gill  of  filtered  soft  water.  After  that,  the  following 
table  of  proportions  and  daily  quantity  have  been  given  by  a physician  and 
may  be  of  help  to  many  : 

Table. 


Milk. 

Water. 

For  a child  from 

5 

to  10 

days  old 

334  j?ills. 

a 

10 

to  20 

days  old 

••  1^. 

It 

434 

( i 

t( 

20 

to  30 

days  old 

..  234 

f 1 

6 

££ 

ti 

(( 

1 

to  134 

months  old 

..  3 

It 

6^ 

(1 

{{ 

134  to  2 

months  old 

. . 314 

tl 

7 

tc 

et 

2 

to  234 

months  old 

. . 4 

tl 

734 

• £ 

(C 

(C 

2U  to  3 

months  old . . . 

,..  434 

tl 

734 

iC 

(i 

(( 

3 

to  334 

months  old . . . . 

..  5 

It 

7>4 

iC 

tl 

{( 

3K 

to  4 

months  old. . . . 

..  5K 

“ 

734 

• C 

(( 

(( 

4 

to  434 

months  old . . . . 

..  6 

(( 

734 

iC 

(( 

a 

434 

to  5 

months  old 

..  634 

It 

734 

6i 

C( 

(C 

5 

to  6 

months  old  . . . . 

7 

tl 

7 

H 

iC 

(( 

6 

to  7 

months  old . . . . 

..  7 

It 

634 

cc 

i( 

it 

7 

to  8 

months  old. . . . 

..  8 

li 

6 

(C 

tl 

8 

to  9 

months  old 

. . 834 

It 

6 

£f 

a 

It 

9 

to  10 

months  old . . . . 

..  834 

It 

6 

<c 

li 

It 

10 

to  11 

months  old . . . . 

..  8M 

It 

6 

C£ 

iC 

tl 

11 

to  12 

months  old 

..  9 

tl 

a 

It 

12 

to  15 

months  old . . . . 

..  9 

It 

534 

(( 

It 

15 

to  18 

months  old . . . . 

..  9)^ 

it 

5 

£C 

'.C, 

tl 

18 

months  onwards 

..  10 

it 

5 

Ci 

Sudden  Checking  of  Prespiration. — A Boston  merchant,  in  ^'lending  a 
hand,”  on  board  one  of  his  own  ships  on  a windy  day,  found  himself,  at  the 
end  of  an  hour  and  a half,  pretty  well  exhausted  and'  prespiraig  freely.  He 
sat  down  to  rest,  and  engaging  in  conversation,  tim<  passed  faster  than  he 


SOMETHING  ABOUT  BABIES. 


1117 


was  a^Yare.  In  attempting  to  rise  he  found  he  was  unable  to  do  so  without 
assistance.  He  was  taken  home  and  put  to  bed,  where  he  remained  two 
years ; and  for  a long  time  after  could  only  hobble  about  with  the  aid  of  a 
crutch.  Less  exposure  than  this  have,  in  constitutions  not  so  vigorous,  re- 
sulted in  inflammation  of  the  lungs — “pneumonia” — ending  in  death  in  less 
than  a w'eek,  or  causing  tedious  rheumatisms,  to  be  a source  of  torture  for  a 
lifetime.  Multitudes  of  lives  would  be  saved  every  year,  and  an  incalcuable 
amount  of  human  suffering  would  be  prevented  if  parents  would  begin  to 
explain  to  their  children,  at  the  age  of  three  or  four  years,  the  danger  which 
attends  cooling  off  too  quickly  after  exercise,  and  the  importance  of  not 
standing  still  after  exercise,  or  work,  or  play,  or  of  remaining  exposed  to  the 
wind,  or  of  sitting  at  an  open  window  or  door,  or  of  pulling  off  any  garment, 
even  the  hat  or  bonnet  while  heated. 

The  following  rules  for  the  management  of  infants  during  the  hot  season 
are  from  Dr.  Wilson’s  “Summer  and  Its  Diseases”: 

Rule  1. — Bathe  the  child  once  a day  in  tepid  water.  If  feeble,  sponge 
all  over  twice  a day  with  tepid  water,  or  tepid  water  and  vinegar. 

Rule  Avoid  all  tight  bandaging.  Make  clothing  light  and  cool, 
and  so  loose  that  the  limbs  may  have  free  play.  At  night  undress, 
sponge,  and  put  on  a slip.  In  the  morning  remove  slip,  bathe,  and  dress  ir 
clean  clothes  if  it  can  be  afforded ; if  not,  thoroughly  air  clothing  by  hanginf 
it  up  during  the  night.  Use  clean  diapers,  and  change  often. 

Rule  S. — Let  the  child  sleep  by  itself  in  a cot  or  cradle.  Put  to  bed  at 
regular  hours,  and  teach  to  go  to  sleep  without  being  nursed  in  the  arms. 
Give  no  cordial,  soothing  syrup,  or  sleeping  drops  vnthout  the  advice  of  a physi> 
dan.  They  kill  thousands  of  children  every  year.  If  the  child  frets  it  is  hungry 
or  ill.  Never  quiet  a child  by  candy  or  cake.  They  are  common  causes  of 
diarrhea  and  other  troubles. 

Rule  A. — Give  the  child  plenty  of  fresh  air.  Give  it  plenty  of  pure  cold 
water.  Keep  it  out  of  rooms  where  cooking  or  washing  is  going  on.  Excesr 
sive  heat  kills  children. 

Rule  5. — Keep  the  house  sweet  and  clean,  cool  and  well  aired.  In  hot 
weather  leave  windows  open  day  and  night.  Cook  in  the  yard,  in  a shed,  c r 
in  the  garret.  Whitewash  walls  every  spring,  and  keep  cellar  free  of  rul^ 
bish.  Let  no  slops  collect.  Disinfect  privies  and  sinks  by  a solution  ci 
copperas,  and  get  your  neighbors  to  clean  up. 

Rule  6. — If  the  supply  of  breast-milk  is  ample,  and  the  child  thrives, 
give  no  other  food  in  hot  weather.  If  the  supply  is  short  give  goat’s  or 
cow’s  milk  in  addition.  Nurse  once  in  two  or  three  hours  by  day,  and  as 
seldom  as  possible  at  night.  Remove  child  from  breast  as  soon  as  it  falls 
asleep,  and  never  give  the  breast  when  overheated  or  fatigued. 

Rule  7. — If  brought  up  by  hand,  give  goat’s  milk,  or  cow’s  milk,  and  use 
no  other  food  while  hot  weather  lasts.  For  an  infant  that  has  not  cut  its 
iront  teeth,  no  substitute  for  milk  is  safe.  Creeping  children  must  not  be 
allovf  ed  to  pick  up  unwholesome  food. 

Rule  8. — If  milk  is  pure  add  one-third  hot  water  to  it  until  child  is  three 
months  old  ; afterwards  gradually  lessen  the  water.  Sweeten  each  pint  with 
a heaping  dessert-spoonful  of  sugar  of  milk,  or  a teaspoon  crushed  sugar. 
When  very  hot  weather  give  milk  cold.  It  must  be  unskimmed  and  as  fresh 
as  possible,  and  brought  very  early  in  the  morning.  Scald  pans  to  be  used 
with  boiling  suds.  In  very  hot  w^eather  boil  milk  as  soon  as  it  comes,  and 
remove  to  the  coolest  place  in  the  house  upon  ice  or  down  in  a well.  In  a 
warm  room  it  soon  spohs. 


1118 


SOMETHING  ABOUT  BABIES. 


Rule  9. — If  the  milk  disagrees  add  a tablespoon  of  lime  water  to  each 
bottlefiil-  If  pure  milk  can  not  be  had,  try  condensed  milk,  sold  by  all  gro- 
cers. Prepare  by  adding  to  six  tablespoons  boiling  water,  without  sugar, 
one  tablespoon  or  more  of  the  milk,  according  to  age  of  child.  It  this  dis- 
agrees, a teaspoon  of  arrowroot,  sago,  or  cornstarch  may  be  added  to  a 
pint  of  milk,  as  prepared  under  Rule  8,  and  cautiously  tried.  If  milk  can 
not  be  digested  try,  for  a few  days,  pure  cream,  diluted  with  three-fourths 
to  four-fifths  water,  returning  to  milk  as  soon  as  possible. 

Rule  to. — The  nursing  bottle  inmt  be  kept  perfecth/  clean,  otherwise  the 
milk  will  turn  sour,  and  the  child  will  be  made  ill.  Empty  ^fter  each  meal, 
rinse  first  with  cold  water,  take  apart,  and  place  nipple  and  bottle  in  clean 
■water,  to  which  a little  soda  has  been  added  It  is  better  to  have  two  bottles 
and  use  them  by  turns.  The  plain  bottle  with  rubber  nipple  is  better  than 
the  tube,  which  is  difficult  to  keep  clean. 

Rule  It  ^Do  not  wean  a child  just  before  or  during  hot  weather  ; nor  as  a 
rule,  until  after  its  second  summer.  If  sucking  disagrees  with  the  mother 
she  must  not  wean  the  child,  but  feed  it  in  part  from  the  nursing  bottle  as 
directed.  Hov/ever  small  the  supply  of  breast  milk,  the  mother  should  keen 
it  up  against  sickness.  It  ivill  often  nave  the  lije  of  a child  when  everything  eh  t 
fails  When  over  six  months  old  the  mother  may  save  her  strength  by  gi\  ■ 
ing  it  one  or  two  meals  a day  of  stale  bread  and  milk,  which  should  be  press  - 
ed  through  a sieve,  and  put  into  a nursing  bottle.  When  from  eight  months 
to  a year  old,  it  may  have  also  one  meal  a day  of  the  yolk  of  a fresh,  rare 
boiled  egg,  or  one  of  beef  or  mutton  broth,  into  which  stale  bread  has  beeia 
crumbled  When  oldei  it  can  have  a little  meat,  finely  minced;  but  eveji 
then  milk  should  be  its  principal  food,  and  not  what  grown  people  eat. 

Rule  12. — If  a child  is  suddenly  taken  with  vomiting,  and  purging,  and 
prostration,  send  for  the  doctor  at  once.  Meantime,  put  the  child  for  a fe'W 
minutes  in  a hot  bath,  then  carefully  wipe  dry  with  a warm  towel,  and  wrap 
in  warm  blankets.  If  hands  and  feet  are  cold,  apply  bottles  filled  with  hot 
watei  wrapped  in  flannel.  Place  a mush  poultice  or  flaxseed  poultice  to  whicli 
one  quarter  part  of  mustard  flour  has  been  added,  or  flannels  wrung  out  of 
hot  vinegar  and  water,  over  the  bowels.  Give  every  fifteen  minutes,  five  drops 
brandy  in  a teaspoonful  of  water;  if  vomiting  continues,  give  the  brandy  in 
the  same  quantity  of  milk  and  lime  water.  If  the  diarrhoea  has  just  begun, 
or  if  caused  by  improper  food,  give  a teaspoonful  of  castor-oil,  or  spiced  syrup 
of  rhubarb.  If  the  child  has  been  fed  partially  on  breast-milk,  mother’s 
milk  alone  must  be  used  now.  If  weaned,  dilute  pure  milk  with  lime-water, 
or  give  weak  beef  tea  or  chicken  water.  Let  child  drink  cold  w'ater  freely. 
Remove  soiled  diapers  at  once  from  the  room  but  save  for  the  examination 
of  the  physician.  The  giving  of  an  injection  of  a teaspoon  or  two  of  ice-cold 
water  after  each  passage  is  of  great  benefit. 


HINTS  FOR  THE  WELL. 


1119 


HINTS  FOH  THE  WEEE, 


Cleanliness  is  next  to  godliness. 

Always  rest  before  and  after  a hearty  meal. 

Do  not  eat  too  much.  Do  not  eat  late  at  night. 

Food,  especially  bread,  should  never  be  eaten  hot. 

Children  should  never  be  dressed  in  tight  clothes. 

Never  sit  in  a damp  or  chilly  room  without  a fire. 

Supper  just  before  going  to  bed  is  highly  injurious.  If  hungry,  a bit  of 
bread  or  cracker  will  check  the  craving  without  spoiling  sleep. 

Never  enter  a room  where  a person  is  sick  with  an  infectious  disease  with 
an  empty  stomach. 

When  really  sick,  send  for  a good  physician  ; and  as  you  value  your  health 
^d  life,  have  nothing  to  do  with  quacks  and  patent  medicines. 

The  condiments,  pepper,  ginger,  etc.,  are  less  injurious  in  summer.  Fat 
beef,  bacon,  and  hearty  food  may  be  eaten  more  freely  in  winter. 

Most  people  drink  too  much  and  too  fast.  A small  quantity  of  water  sip- 
ped slowly  satisfies  thirst  as  well  as  a pailful  swallowed  at  a draught. 

Let  the  amount  of  the  meal  bear  some  relation  to  future  needs  as  well 
as  present  appetite  ; but  it  is  better  to  carry  an  extra  pound  in  vour  pocket 
ihan  in  your  stomach. 

A small  quantity  of  plain  nourishing  soup  is  a wholesome  first  course  at 
dinner.  Rich  soups  are  injurious  to  persons  of  weak  digestion,  and  a large 
quantity  of  liquid  food  is  not  beneficial  to  adults . 

A famous  caterer  adds  half  teaspoon  chicken  pepsin  to  each  pint  mayon- 
naise dressing  for  chicken  salad'  and  claims  one  can  eat  thereof  late  at  night 
and  yet  have  pleasant  dreams. 

Three  full  meals  daily  are  customary  but  the  number,  the  relative  quan- 
tity and  quality,  and  the  intervals  between  them,  are  largely  matters  of 
opinion,  habit  and  convenience ; regularity  is  the  important  thing. 

Exercise  before  breakfast  should  be  very  light , and  it  is  better  to  take  a 
cracker  or  some  trifle  before  going  out,  especially  in  a miasmatic  climate. 
Early  breakfasts  are  a necessity  to  the  young  and  growing. 

Sponge  off  your  ne^k,  throat  and  chest  in  cold  water  every  morning,  dry 
quickly  with  a soft  towel,  then  rub  with  a rough  one ; do  not  be  more  thrn  a 
minute  about  it  , and  a sore  throat  will  rarely  trouble  you.  A towel  mdij  be 
roughened  by  dipping  in  strong  brine,  then  drying. 


1120 


HINTS  FOR  THE  WELL. 


Remember  that  when  the  stomach  is  sour  after  eating,  the  food  is  actu- 
ally rotting — that  is  a nauseating  word  but  it  expresses  the  absolute  fact  in 
the  case — and  it  means  that  some  of  the  rules  given  have  been  violated. 

Eat  in  pure  air  and  in  pleasant  company ; light  conversation  and  gentle 
exercise  promotes  digestion,  but  hard  work  of  any  kind  retards  it.  Avoid  se- 
vere bodily  or  mental  labor  just  before  and  for  two  hours  after  a full  meal. 

Drinks  at  meals  should  be  taken  at  the  close,  and  not  too  strong  or  hot. 
Dyspeptics  especially  should  drink  sparingly.  Children  need  more  than 
adults,  but  too  much  is  injurious. 

Masticate  well ; five  minutes  more  at  dinner  may  give  you  better  use  of 
an  hour  afterward..  At  meals  never  drink  a full  glass  of  very  hot  or  very  cold 
liquid.  Never  wash  down  a mouthful.  Avoid  waste  of  saliva. 

Adults  need  to  eat  at  regular  intervals  two  or  three  times  a day,  allowing 
time  for  each  meal  to  be  fully  digested  before  another  is  taken . It  would 
spoil  a loaf  of  bread,  half  baked,  to  poke  a lump  of  cold  dough  into  the  mid- 
dle of  it. 

Avoid  colds  and  break  up  as  soon  as  possible  when  taken.  As  soon  as 
conscious  that  the  pores  are  closed,  keep  warm  within  doors,  drink  warnt 
ginger  tea,  relax  the  bowels,  and  take  a vapor  bath.  Breaking  a cold  up 
early,  often  saves  a severe  attack  of  congestion,  pneumonia,  often  even  a fever. 

Avoid  tobacco,  alcohol  in  all  forms,  and  all  stimulants.  Every  healthy 
man  is  better,  stronger,  has  a clearer  head,  more  endurance,  and  better 
chances  lor  a long  life,  if  fiee  from  the  habitual  use  of  stimulants.  The  boy 
who  begins  the  use  of  tobacco  or  liquors  early  is  physically  ruined. 

When  too  many  oysters  have  been  incautiously  eaten,  and  are  felt  lying 
cold  and  heavy  on  tlie  stomach,  there  is  an  infallible  remedy  in  hot  milk,  of 
which  half  a pint  may  be  drank,  and  it  will  quickly  dissolve  the  oysters  into 
a bland,  creamy  jelly.  Weak  and  dyspeptic  persons  should  always  take  hot 
milk  after  meals  of  oysters. 

Use  good  palatable  food,  not  highly  seasoned,  vary  in  quantity  and  quals 
ity  according  to  age,  climate,  w^eather  and  occupation.  Unbolted  and  par. 
tially  bolted  grains  are  good  and  sufficient  food  for  men;  but  nature  crave- 
\'ariety.  As  a rule,  the  flesh  of  meat-eating  animals  is  not  wholesome  food- 
Ilot  soft  bread  digests  slowly. 

Don’t  eat  too  fast ; the  digestive  organs  are  something  like  a stove,  'which 
i choked  up  and  out  of  order,  burns  slowly,  and  if  you  keep  piling  in  fuel, 
^rows  more  and  more  choked.  The  'wiser  course  is  to  let  it  burn  down  and 
put  in  fuel  only  when  needed.  It  is  a foolish  notion  that  food  always  keeps 
np  the  strength.  Only  what  we  digest  helps  us  ; all  beyond  that  is  a tax  up- 
on the  system,  and  exhausts,  the  strength  instead  of  increasing  it. 

Panaceas  are  prima  facie  humbugs  ; their  makers  and  takers,  their  ven- 
ders and  recommenders  are  knaves  or  fools,  or  both.  Nature  cures  most  dis- 
eases, if  let  alone  or  aided  by  diet  and  proper  care.  There  are  no  miracles  in 
medicine  ; remember  that  to  keep  or  to  get  health  generally  requires  only  a 
recognition  of  Nature’s  powers,  with  knowledge  of  anatomy  and  physiology, 
experience  and  common  sense. 

Never  sleep  in  clothing  worn  during  the  day,  and  let  that  worn  at  night 
be  exposed  to  the  air  by  day.  Three  pints  of  moisture,  filled  with  the  waste 
of  the  body,  are  given  ofl*  every  twenty-four  hours,  and  mostly  absorbed  by 
clothing.  Exposure  to  air  and  sunlight  purifies  the  clothing  and  bedding  of 
the  poisons  which  nature  is  trying  to  get  rid  of,  and  which  would  otherwise 
De  brought  again  in  contact  with  the  body. 


HINTS  FOR  THE  WELL. 


1121 


Flannel  underwear  should  reach  from  throat  to  wrists  and  ankles  in 
winter.  Why  should  the  legs  of  children  be  left  with  less  protection  from 
the  cold  than  the  rest  of  the  body  ? They  should  be  loose  and  easy  in  every 
part  with  allowance  for  shrinkage  and  growth.  The  legs  should  slope  by  both 
outside  and  inside  seams,  from  the  calf  of  the  leg  down.  Leave  them  open 
a few  inches  at  the  bottom  of  the  inner  seam,  that  they  may  be  folded  smooth- 
ly under  the  stocking. 

Ventilation  cannot  be  accomplished  by  simply  letting  the  pure  air  in; 
the  bad  air  must  be  let  out.  Open  a window  at  top  and  bottom,  hold  a light- 
ed candle  in  the  draft,  and  see  the  flame  turn  outward  at  the  top  and  inward 
at  the  bottom,  showing  the  purifying  currents.  Windows  on  opposide  sides 
of  the  room  ventilate  still  more  perfectly.  In  sleeping  rooms  avoid  “drafts” 
when  possible,  but  danger  of  taking  cold  from  them  may  be  averted  by  extra 
clothing.  In  living-rooms,  an  open  fire-place  or  grate  insures  ventilation. 

It  should  be  remembered  that  the  use  of  chloride  of  lime,  and  other  fu- 
migators,  does  not  destroy  filthiness,  but  only  renders  it  less  evident.  Clean- 
liness, fresh  air,  and  sunlight  will  purify.  Cleanliness  is  a very  strong  word. 
Carpets  filled  with  dust  or  grease,  dirty  furniture,  or  walls  covered  with  old 
paper,  defile  the  atmosphere  as  much  as  a refuse  heap  in  the  cellar  or  bad 
yard.  A dark  house  is  generally  unwholesome  and  dirty.  The  sunlight  ii 
second  only  in  importance  to  fresh  air.  To  convince  one  that  light  purifies 
it  is  only  necessary  to  go  into  a dariiened  room  and  not  the  corrupt  smell. 

The  lungs  should  be  trained  to  free,  full,  and  vigorous  action.  ‘‘Thf 
breath  IS  the  life.”  A man  will  exist  for  days  without  food,  but  when  th«  ■ 
breath  is  cut  off  life  ceases.  If  breathing  is  imperfect,  all  the  functions  ol 
the  body  work  at  a disadvantage.  It  is  a common  fault  to  breathe  from  th< ; 
surface  of  the  lungs  only,  not  bringing  into  play  the  abdominal  muscles,  and 
so  not  filling  the  more  remote  air-cells  of  the  lungs.  By  this  defective  action 
the  system  is  deprived  of  a part  of  its  supply  of  air,  and  by  inaction  the  air  - 
cells  become  diseased. 

Evacuate  the  bowels  daily,  and,  above  all,  regularly;  the  best  time  u. 
after  breakfast ; partly  to  be  rid  of  a physical  burden  during  the  day,  bui 
chiefly  to  relieve  the  "bowels.  Constipation  is  safer  than  diarrhcea.  For  the- 
former,  exercise,  ride  horseback,  knead  the  belly,  take  a glass  of  cool  water 
before  breakfast,  eat  fruit  and  laxative  food  ; for  the  latter,  follow  an  opposite 
course — toast,  crusts,  crackers  and  rice  are  the  best  food.  Pain  and  uneasi- 
ness of  digestive  organs  are  signs  of  disturliance  ; keep  a clear  eonscience ; 
rest,  sleep,  eat  properly;  avoid  strong  medicines  in  ordinary  cases. 

Keep  the  person  scrupulously  clean ; change  the  clothing  worn  next  to 
the  skin  (which  should  be  flannel)  often.  Don’t  economize  in  washing  bills. 
A cold  bath  every  morning  for  very  vigorous  persons,  or  once  or  twice  a week 
and  thorough  rubbing  Vvfith  a coarse  towel  or  flesh  brush,  mornings  when 
bath  is  not  taken,  for  the  less  robust,  is  necessary  to  keep  the  functions  of 
the  skin  in  health,  and  is  very  invigorating.  After  warm  baths  a dash  of 
cold  water  will  prevent  chill  and  “taking  cold.”  In  bathing  in  winter,  the 
shock  from  cold  water  is  lessened  by  standing  a minute  in  the  cold  air  after 
the  removal  of  clothing  before  applying  water. 

In  the  winter  there  is  great  necessity  of  dressing  to  keep  the  body  warm 
by  preserving  its  natural  heat.  The  color  as  well  as  the  texture  of  under- 
wear is  a matter  of  consequence.  Of  all  the  different  materials  of  which  it 
is  made,  scientific  researches,  as  well  as  practical  experience  and  experi- 
ments, show  very  clearly  that  wool  is  the  best  material  for  warmth,  silk 
coming  next  in  the  list,  cotton  next  and  linen  last.  The  neglect  to  wear  warm 
woolen  undergarments  is  a veiy  common  cause  of  the  ill-health  of  women 
and  children. 


71 


1122 


HINTS  FOR  THE  WELL. 


The  use  of  close  stoves,  and  close  rooms,  are  the  causes  of  the  increased 
prevalence  and  fatality,  in  winter,  of  small  pox,  scarlet  fever  and  other  con- 
tagious diseases. 

Colds  are  often,  if  not  generally,  the  result  of  debility,  and  are  preceded 
by  disordered  digestion.  Such  cases  are  prevented  by  a removal  of  the  c.mse 
by  diet  and  pure  air.  Extreme  cold  or  heat,  and  sudden  exposure  to  cold  by 
passing  from  a heated  room  to  cold  outside  air,  is  very  injurious  to  the  old 
or  weak.  All  such  should  avoid  great  extremes  and  sudden  changes.  In 
passing  from  heated  assemblies  to  the  cold  air,  the  mouth  should  be  kept 
closed,  and  the  breathing  done  through  the  nostrils  only,  so  that  the  cold  air 
may  be  warmed  before  reaching  the  lungs,  which  hav<3  just  been  immersed 
in  a hot-air  bath.  The  injurious  effect  of  such  sudden  changes  is  caused  by 
driving  the  blood  from  the  surface  to  the  internal  organs,  producing  con- 
gestion. 

An  intelligent  physician  says  : “It  is  a good  rule  always  to  ride  up  in  an 
elevator,  and  when  coming  down  to  take  the  stairs.  Like  going  up  hill,  walk- 
ing up  stairs  is  hard  work,  and  sometimes  risky,  especially  for  people  with 
weak  lungs,  defective  respiratory  organs,  or  heart  disease.  But  going  down 
stairs  hurts  nobody,  but  is  good  exercise  ; going  down  on  a brisk  run  is  really 
a good  thing — it  shakes  up  the  anatomy,  without  incuring  the  danger  of  phys- 
ical over  exertion.  This  shaking  up  is  good  for  one’s  internal  mechanism, 
which  it  accelerates,  especially  the  liver,  the  kidneys,  and  the  blood  circu- 
lation.” 

Bad  smells  mean  that  decay  is  going  on  somewhere.  Rotten  particles 
are  floating  in  the  air,  and  penetrating  the  nostrils  and  lungs.  Their  offen- 
siveness means  that  they  are  poison,  and  will  produce  sickness  and  death,  or 
so  reduce  the  tone  of  the  system  that  ordinarily  mild  disorders  will  prove 
fatal.  In  all  such  cases  remove  the  cause  when  possible.  Many  of  these 
poisons  are  given  off  by  the  body,  and  are  removed^  by  pure  air,  as  dirt  is 
washed  away  by  water. ' Soiled  or  foul  air  can  not  purify  any  more  than  dirty 
water  will  clean  dirty  clothes.  Pure  air  enters  the  lungs,  becomes  charged 
with  waste  particles,  which  are  poison  if  taken  back  again.  An  adult  spoils 
one  gallon  of  pure  air  every  minute,  or  twenty -five  flour  barrelfuls  in  a single 
night,  ip  breathing  alone'.  A lighted  gas-burner  consumes  eleven  gallons, 
and  an  ordinary  stove  twenty-five  gallons  a minute.  Think  of  these  facts  be- 
fore sealing  up  the  fire-place,  or  nailing  down  the  windows  for  winter. 

Let  the  sunshine  into  every  room  in  the  house.  The  sunlight  is  a great 
purifier.  Keep  the  cellar  not  only  clean  and  sweet,  but  give  it  fresh  air  and 
good  ventilation,  or  it  will  poison  the  rest  of  the  house. 

If  one  is  accustomed  to  sleeping  with  windows  open,  there  is  no  danger  of 
taking  cold  from  the  exposure,  winter  or  summer.  People  who  shut  up 
windov/s  to  keep  out  “night  air,”  make  a mistake.  At  night,  the  only  air  to 
breathe  is  “night  air.”  A bed  that  has  been  made  up  for  a week  or  longer  is 
not  fit  to  sleep  in.  It  has  gathered  moisture  and  should  be  aired.  When 
fixed  wash-bowls  stand  in  sleeping-rooms,  the  waste  pipe  should  be  carefully 
closed,  as  sewer  gases  often  escape  through  them  into  the  room. 

Many  of  the  colds  which  people  are  said  to  catch,  commence  at  the  feet. 
To  keep  these  extremities  warm,  therefore,  is  to  effect  an  insurance  against 
the  almost  interminable  list  of  disorders  which  spring  out  of  a “slight  cold.” 
First,  never  be  tightly  shod.  Boots  and  shoes  when  they  fit  closely,  press 
against  ti.e  foot  and  prevent  a free  circulation  of  the  blood.  When,  on  the 
contrary,  thev  do  not  embrace  the  foot  too  tightly  the  blood  gets  fair  play, 
and  the”  places  left  between  the  leather  and  the  stockings  are  filled  with  a 
comfortable  supply  of  warm  mr.  The  second  rule  is,  never  to  sit  in  damp 
shoes.  It  is  often  imagined  that  unless  they  are  positively  wet  it  is  not 
neceesary  to  change  them  while  the  feet  are  at  rest.  This  is  a fallacy  j for 


HINTS  FOR  THE  WELL. 


1123 


when  the  least  dampness  is  absorbed  in  the  sole,  it  is  attracted  nearer  to  the 
foot  itself  by  its  own  heat,  and  thus  perspiration  is  dangerously  checked. 
Aii}^  person  may  prove  this,  by  trying  the  experiment  of  neglecting  this  rule, 
and  his  feet  will  become  cold  and  damp  after  a few  moments,  although,  tak- 
ing off  the  shoe  and  warming  it,  it  will  appear  quite  dry. 

Remember  that  there  is  no  patent  medicine  or  ‘‘patent  pad,”  warranted 
to  “cure  by  absorption,”  that  will  absorb  disease  half  as  rapidly  as  a wet 
towel  wrapped  around  the  body,  and  covered  with  a dry  flannel.  If  people 
were  required  to  pay  $10  each  lor  this  “valuable  secret”  there  would  be  no 
difficulty  in  getting  millions  of  testimonials  to  its  efficacy.  It  is  too  cheap  to 
be  popular  with  people  who  liked  to  be  humbugged ; but  when  humbugs  al! 
fail,  try  hot  and  cold  water. 

One  of  the  most  prominent  writers  on  health  topics  says  : “The  great 
practical  lesson  which  I wish  to  inculate,  to  be  engraven  as  on  a plate  of 
steel,  on  the  memory  of  children  and  youth,  young  men  and  w'omen.  the 
mature  and  the  gray-headed : Allow  nothiny  short  of  fire  or  endangered  life  to 
induce  you  to  resist,  for  one  single  moment,  nature’s  alvine  call.  So  far  from 
refusing  a call  for  any  reason  short  of  life  and  death,  you  should  go  at  the 
usual  time  and  solicit,  and  doing  so  you  will  have  your  reward  in  a degree  of 
healthfulness,  and  in  a length  of  life,  which  very  few  are  ever  permitted  t i 
enjoy.  If  the  love  of  health  and  life,  or  the  fear  of  inducing  painful  diseas  v 
can  not  induce  you  to  adopt  the  plan  I have  recommended,  there  is  anothe  f 
argument  which,  to  young  gentlemen  and  young  ladies,  may  appear  mor  ik 
convincing — personal  cleanliness.  [If  you  suffer  yourself  to  become  and  ra 
main  costive  you  will  smell  badly ; the  breath  of  a costive  child  even  i j 
scarcely  to  be  endured.]  Cold  feet,  sick  headache,  piles,  fistulas,  these,  wit! » 
scores  of  other  diseases,  have  their  first  foundations  laid  in  constipation 
which  itself  is  infallibly  induced  by  resisting  nature’s  first  calls.  Reader 
let  it  be  your  wisdom  never  to  do  it*^  again.” 

A Dyspeptic’s  Fight  for  Life. 

Judge  AV.  was  a dyspeptic,  for  five  weary  years.  He  tried  travel,  bn1 
neither  the  keen  air  of  the  sea-shore  nor  the  bracing  breezes  of  the  Northeru 
prairies  brought  him  relief.  He  tried  all  the  panaceas  and  all  the  doctor., 
at  home  and  abroad  in  vain.  Some  told  him  that  he  had  heart-disease,  others 
thought  it  was  inflammation  of  the  spleen,  gout,  Bright’s  disease,  liver  com- 
plaint, lung  difficulty  or  softening  of  the  brain.  Bottle  after  bottle  of  nos- 
trums went  down  the  unfortunate  man’s  throat,  and  it  was  only  when  phys- 
icians and  tnends  gave  him  up,  and  pronounced  him  to  all  intents  a dead 
man,  that  he  threw  bottles,  plasters,  powders  and  pills  to  the  four  winds, 
and,  with  the  energy  of  despaii-,  set  about  disappointing  his  doctors,  and 
getting  ready  to  live  despite  their  ghastly  predictions.  Then  begin  a fight 
for  life  against  dyspepsia,  a fight  which  "many  have  begun,  but  few  have 
won.  He  bathed  the  whole  body  every  morning  in  cold  water,  summer  and 
winter,  not  by  a shower  or  a plunge,  but  by  vigorously  dashing  the  water  on 
the  body  with  the  hands,  and  afterwards  rubbing  briskly  with  a coarse 
towel.  This  was  continued  without  missing  a single  morning  for  years.  Ii.. 
the  meantime  the  strictest  diet  was  instituted.  By  experimenting  the  patient 
found  what  he  could  eat  without  harm,  and  ate  that  only  in  very  small 
quantities,,  measuring  his  food  on  his  plate  before  beginning  his  meal,  and 
limiting  himself  rigidly  to  that  quantity.  His  principal  food  for  nearly  three 
years  was  cracked  wheat  and  Graham  "mush,  and  the  last  meal  was  taken  at 
two  o’clock  in  the  afternoon — not  a particle  of  food  passed  his  lips  from  that 
timemntil  the  next  morning,  thus  giving  the  stomach  complete  restand  time, 
to  begin  tie  work  of  recuperation.  Special  attention  was  given  to  eatin.j 
slowly  and  thoroughly  masticating  the  food;  and  not  to  eat  too  much,  to») 


1124 


HINT?  THE  WELL. 


fast,  or  too  often,  were  rules  strictly  and  rigidly  observed.  Bathing,  diet, 
rest,  sleep,  and  gentle  exercise  in  the  open  air  did  the  work.  It  was  a dread- 
ful conflict — days  of  struggle  and  temptation,  requiring  more  heroism  and 
steady  tenacity  of  purpose  than  would  nerve  a soldier  for  battle,  for  such  a 
battle  is  for  the  day,  but  this-  fight  was  renewed  every  morning  and  contin- 
ued every  day  for  months  and  years.  But  patience,  courage,  intelligent 
judgement,  and  a strict  adherence  to  the  above  regimen  won  the  day  with- 
out a grain  or  a drop  of  medicine,  and  Judge  W.  believes  that  the  good  Lord 
of  us  all  has  never  permitted  any  man  to  discover  or  invent  medicine  that 
will  cure  dyspepsia.  Nature  is  the  only  perfect  physician.  Cold  water, 
fresh  air,  the  natural  grain  (wheat),  sleep,  rest,  and  gentle  exercise,  make 
up  the  grand  panacea.  AYitli  these  alone,  and  the  self-denial  and  moral 
courage  to  persist  in  the  good  fight,  the  confirmed,  nervous,  miserable  dys- 
peptic, l^ecame  a well,  strong  and  hearty  man — in  five  days?  No.  In  five 
months  ? No.  In  five  years?  Yes  ; and  after  the  fight  when  contemplating 
the  victory  won,  he  could  say  with  the  model  philanthrophist,  Amos  Law- 
rence, after  his  battle  of  fifteen  long  years  with  the  same  disease,  “If  men 
only  knew  how  sweet  .the  victory  is,  they  would  not  hesitate  a mcment  to 
engage  in  the  conflict.” 

There  are  certain  articles  of  diet  that  must  be  discarded  by  all  persons 
who  have  a weak  digestion  and  certain  dietetic  rules  which  must  be  con- 
formed to  by  all.  To  the  most  important  of  these  we  will  now  call  attention : 
Eat  slowly, 'masticating  the  food  very  thoroughly  even  more  so,  if  possible 
than  is  required  in  health.  The  more  time  the  food  spends  in  the  mouth  the 
less  it  will  spend  in  the  stomach.  Avoid  drinking  at  meals.,  at  most  take  a 
few  sips  of  warm  water  at  the  close  of  the  meal,  if  the  food  is  very  dry  in 
character.  In  general,  dyspeptic  stomachs  manage  diu^  fruit  better  thaw 
that  containing  much  licpiid.  Eat  neither  very  hot  or  cold  food.  The  best 
temperature,  about  that  of  the  body.  Avoid  exposure  to  cold  after  eating. 
Be  careful  to  avoid  excess  in  eating.  Eat  no  more  than  the  wants  of  the 
system  requires.  Sometimes  less  than  is  really  needed  must  be  taken  when 
digestion  is  very  weak.  Strength  depends  not  on  what  is  eaten,  but  what 
digested. 

Never  take  violent  exercise  of  any  s’ort,  either  mental  or  physical,  eithei 
just  before  or  just  after  a meal.  It  is  not  good  to  sleep  immediately  aftei 
eating,  nor  within  four  hours  of  a meal.  Never  eat  more  than  three  times  a 
day,  and  make  the  last  meal  very  light.  For  many  dyspeptics  two  meals  art 
better  than  more.  Never  eat  a morsel  of  anything  between  meals.  Nevei 
eat  when  tired,  whether  exhausted  from  mental  or  physicial  labor.  Novel 
eat  when  the  mind  is  worried  or  the  temper  ruffled,  if  possible  to  avoid  do* 
ing  so.  Eat  only  food  that  is  easy  of  digestion,  avoiding  complicated  and  in- 
digestible dishes,  and  taking  but  one  to  three  kinds  at  a meal.  Most  per- 
sons will  be  benefitted  by  the  use  of  oat-meal,  wheat-meal  or  graham  flour, 
cracked  wheat  and  other  whole-grain  preparations,  though  many  will  find  il 
necessary  to  avoid  vegetables,  esi^ecially  when  fruits  and  meats  were  taken. 
The  flesh  of  wild  game  is  usually  more  easy  of  digestion  than  that  of  domes- 
tic animals,  and  is  less  likely  to  be  diseased.  Fats  are  injurious  to  dyspep- 
tics almost  without  exception.  If  eaten  at  all,  butter  is  the  only  form  ad- 
missible, and  this  should  never  be  eaten  cooked,  but  cold  on  bread.  Broil- 
ing is  the  best  mode  of  cooking  meat.  “High”  meat  should  never  be  eaten 
as  it  has  begun  to  decay.  Meat  and  vegetables  do  not  agree  well  together. 
Fruit  anu  vegetables  often  disagree.  Some  cases  must  be  required  to  dis- 
card vegetables  altogether.  Milk  does  not  agree  well  with  either  vegetables 
or  fruits.  Milk  is  easier  of  digestion  when  boiled  than  when  in  its  natural 
state.  \Varm  food  is  easier  of  digestion  than  cold,  with  the  exception  of  fer- 
mented bread,  which  should  be  eaten  stale.  Cold  meat  and  meat  that  has 
“been  warmed  over”  are  not  easy  of  digestion. 


HINTS  FOR  THE^WELL. 


1125 


Popular  Errors  In  Diet. — An  eminent  physician  has  prepared  this  article 
giving  the  following  errors  : It  is  an  error  to  suppose  that  the  appetite  is 
always  a correct  criterion  of  the  quantity  and  quality  of  food.  This  is  a 
wddeiy  prevalent  error  and  some  very  distinguished  physicians  have  given 
it  countenance  and  endorsement  by  saying  to  patients,  when  asked  for  a diet 
prescription,  “Eat  whatever  and  whenever  you  have  a mind  to.”  No  ad- 
vice could  be  more  mischievous.  It  virtually  assumes  either  that  there  is 
no  relation  between  diet  and  health,  that  it  makes  no  difference  what  a per- 
son eats,  or  that  the  appetite  is  an  infallible  guide,  both  of  which  supposi- 
tions are  palpably  false.  If  all  appetites  were  natural  appetites,  if  there 
were  no  such  thing  as  depraved  taste,  then  might  the  appetite  be  relied  upon, 
but  in  the  present  state  of  things  among  civilized  human  beings  scarcely  one 
person  in  a hundred  has  a perfectly  normal  taste  and  appetite,  if  the  number 
be  not  even  smaller.  The  appetite  is  to  some  degree  a guide,  but  it  must  be 
controlled  and  governed  by  common  sense,  by  a knowledge  of  the  laws  of 
digestion  and  the  relation  of  elementary  substances  to  the  stomach  and  the 
system.  Either  extreme  on  this  point  is  bad.  The  appetite  must  not  be 
ignored  and  it  must  not  be  blindly  followed  unless  it  is  known  to  be  normal 
in  its  inclinations.  It  would  be  just  as  proper  to  advise  a person  to  speak 
anything  that  comes  into  his  mind,  to  do  everything  for  which  he  has  an  in- 
clination, and  to  thus  follow  implicitly  all  the  promptings  of  his  various 
organs,  as  to  tell  him  to  eat  everything  which  he  feels  disposed  to. 

It  is  an  error  to  suppose  that  sick  persons  whose  appetites  are  poor, 
should  be  tempted  to  eat  by  means  of  tidbits  and  dainties.  Nothing  is  more 
common  than  for  them  to  be  besieged  with  such  unwholesome  substances  as 
preserves,  rich  jellies  and  sauces,  pies,  cakes,  confectionery,  etc.  About  as 
soon  as  a person  is  taken  sick,  in  some  communities,  the  neighbors  begin  to 
show  their  sympathy  by  contributions  of  all  sorts  of  unwholesome  and  in- 
digestible viands,  and  the  invalid,  whose  stomach  may  be  unable  to  digest 
any  but  the  very  simplest  food,  beeomes  a victim  to  the  kindness  of  friends. 
Many  times  have  the  best  efforts  of  the  intelligent  physician  been  baffled  in 
this  manner.  “Killed  by  kindness”  of  this  sort  might  be  written  on  many  a 
tombstone.  The  general  belief  that  these  things  are  essential  for  the  sick 
when  confessedly  bad  for  the  well  is  forcibly  illustrated  by  the  story  con- 
cerning the  old  gentleman  who  arrived  home  late  at  night  and  not  finding 
any  pie  in  the  cupboard  awoke  his  wife  with  the  exclamation,  “Why,  what 
would  you  do  if  anyone  should  be  sick  in  the  night!”  Every  physician 
ought  to  look  carefully  after  this  matter  whenever  he  has  a patient  in  charge 
and  the  absurdity  of  the  custom  should  be  thoroughly  exposed.  The  want 
of  appetite  in  sick  people,  especially  fever  patients  is  usually  an  indication 
that  the  stomach  is  not  in  a condition  to  digest  food  if  it  is  received,  and 
only  the  most  digestible  should  be  given,  and  that  in  small  quantities. 

It  is  an  error  to  suppose  that  children  especially,  need  large  quantities 
of  fat  and  sugar.  The  opinion  has  been  gaining  of  late,  that  fat  and  sugar 
are  preventitives  of  consumption  when  fed  to  children  so  as  to  increase  their 
fat.  From  some  considerable  observation  on  the  subject,  w^e  are  decidedly 
of  the  opinion  that  the  practice  is  a bad  one  and  the  theory  upon  which  it  is 
based  wholly  erroneous.  These  substances  are  themselves  difficult  of  di- 
gestion (this  is  especially  true  of  fat)  and  hinder  the  digestion  of  food,  thus 
producing  dyspepsia  which  causes  decay  of  the  teeth  and  doubtless  an  equally 
marked  deterioration  in  other  parts  of  the  system.  The  notion  that  the  ap- 
petite for  sugar  is  a natural  one  is  shov/n  to  be  false  by  the  fact  stated  by 
Dr.  Anthony  Carlisle,  the  iVrtic  traveler.  According  to  Mr.  Carlisle,  the  lit- 
tle folks  in  the  vicinity  of  the  North  Pole  are  not  fond  of  sweets.  He  says 
that  when  sugar  was  placed  in  their  mouths  they  made  very  wry  faces  and 
sputtered  it  out  with  disgust.  There  is  no  evidence  whatever  that  it  “pre- 


1126 


HINTS  FOR  THE  WELL. 


serves  the  teeth,”  '‘aids  digestion,”  “promotes  growth”  or  “prevents  con- 
sumption,” as  many  persons  believe. 

It  is  an  error  to  suppose  that  many  varieties  of  food  are  essential  to 
good  digestive  nutrition.  The  common  sense  of  most  people  who  sufifer  with 
weak  digestion  has  taught  them  that  one  or  two  kinds  of  food  at  a meal  are 
more  easily  digested  than  a large  variety,  notwithstanding  the  erroneous 
teaching  of  some  popular  authors  on  this  subject.  It  is  true  that  the  appe- 
tite sometimes  refuses  food  when  its  use  is  long  continued  without  change, 
but  the  variety  should  be  obtained  by  employing  different  foods  or  dishes  at 
different  meals  rather  than  at  the  same  meal.  There  is  no  doubt  that  dys- 
pepsia is  not  unfrequently  the  result  of  the  indiscriminate  gormandizing"  in 
which  people  indulge  whose  chief  aim  in  eating  is  to  satisfy  the  palate. 

It  is  a very  great  error  to  suppose  that  brain-workers,  students,  clergy- 
men, lawyers  and  other  persons  whose  vocation  is  largely  sedentary,  require 
but  little  food.  The  very  opposite  is  true.  A brain  worker  uses  up  as  much 
blood  in  three  hours  of  intense  labor  as  the  muscle  worker  in  ten  hours  of 
ordinary  toil.  Brain  workers  should  be  well  fed,  but  they  must  not  be  over- 
fed. Many  of  the  cases  of  apoplexy  in  professional  men,  set  down  to  over- 
work, are  really  attributable  to  overeating.  A brain  worker  needs  as  mud  ■ 
food  and  as  nutritious  food  as  a muscle  worker,  but  he  is  compelled  to  bo 
more  careful  in  its  selection,  and  cannot  exceed  with  impunity  the  limits  of 
his  actual  needs.  This  point  is  often  neglected  with  reference  to  school- 
children,  especially  girls,  who  are  not  unfrequently  allowed  to  make  the  at- 
tempt to  live  and  study  hard  on  a slice  or  two  of  wheat  bread  and  a cup  of 
coffee  for  breakfast,  bread  and  butter  and  pickles  for  dinner  and  a morsel 
chiefly  made  up  of  “dessert”  at  night,  when  dinner  is  taken  at  six,  as  in 
many  of  the  large  cities.  In  many  female  boarding  schools  the  dietary  is 
neglected,  an  insufficient  amount  of  nourishing  elements  being  furnished  to 
support  the  vigorous  mental  effort  required  of  students.  Under  such  a regi- 
me it  is  no  wonder  that  many  young  women  break  down  just  wdien  they 
ought  to  be  enjoying  the  highest  degree  of  health  and  strength.  We  arc 
thoroughly  convinced  that  a much  larger  share  of  the  breakdowns  among 
students,  both  male  and  female,  is  due  to  poor  feeding  more  than  to  overstudy. 

It  is  an  error  to  suppose  that  fish  or  any  other  single  article  of  diet  is 
brain  food,  muscle  food,  or  food  for  any  particular  part  of  the  system.  A few 
years  ago  a celebrated  scientist  made  the  casual  suggestion  that  perhaps  fish 
food  might  be  especially  nourishing  to  the  brain,  as  there  w^as  considerable 
phosphorous  in  the  brain  and  also  in  the  fish.  The  notion  spread  like  a her- 
esy, and  soon  fish  of  all  sorts,  big  and  little,  scaly  fish,  shell  fish,  and  fish 
with  neither  scales  nor  shell,  were  devoured  in  unprecedented  quantities  by 
TQicrocephalous  people  and  people  whose  brains  were  not  obviously  too  small, 
for  the  purpose  of  obtaining  the  supposed  specific  effects  of  a fish  diet.  A 
gentleman  eager  to  cultivate  his  brain  and  induce  an  increased  grow'th,  ad- 
dressed a letter  to  a noted  wag,  asking  for  advice  respecting  the  quantity  of 
fish  which  he  must  eat  per  day.  The  answer  he  received  was  a fitting  criti- 
cism on  the  theory  and  undoulDtedly  discouraged  the  aspirations  of  the  young 
man,  being  to  the  effect  tnat  a small  wfliale  would  be  about  the  right  quantity 
for  a meal.  The  falsity  of  the  theory  has  been  repeatedly  shown  by  the 
citation  of  the  fact  that  the  lowest  of  human  races  are  those  that  live  almost 
exclusively  upon  fish.  In  civilized  countries,  also,  as  in  the  vicinity  of  large 
fisheries,  whole  communities  often  make  fish  their  almost  exclusive  diet,  and 
yet  there  is  no  evidence  that  their  mental  capacity  is  increased  thereby.  In 
fact,  the  low  mental  and  moral  status  of  these  people  would  furnish  an  argu- 
ment on  the  opposide  side  of  the  question  if  it  were  necessary  to  offer  such 
an  argument. 


HINTS  FOR  THE  WELL. 


1127 


It  is  an  error  to  suppose  that  people  suffering  with  nervous  debility,  nau- 
rasthenia  or  other  forms  of  nervous  weakness,  need  large  quantities  of  flesh 
food.  It  is  a vei'v  common  custom  when  it  is  decided  that  a person  has  any 
form  of  nervous  disorder  accompanied  by  weakness  or  impaired  nutrition,  to 
place  them  at  once  on  a diet  consisting  largely  of  flesh,  as  beefsteak,  mutton- 
chops,  etc.  Sometimes  the  drinking  of  blood  is  recommended.  That  this 
indiscriminate  practice  is  a bad  one  we  have  often  had  occasion  to  notice.  It 
not  infrequently  happens  that  the  excessive  use  of  flesh  food  is  a cause  of 
nervousness,  as  has  been  repeatedly  pointed  out,  and  we  believe  that  whether 
its  use  is  advised  or  not,  its  use  should  depend  on  the  condition  of  the  stom- 
ach rather  than  on  the  nerves.  A person  whose  stomach  is  very  feeble  may 
oe  enable  to  digest  sufficient  vegetable  food  to  replenish  the  tissues,  for  such 
persons  a flesh  diet  or  a mixed  diet  will  be  found  to  be  very  advantageous. 

It  is  a most  erroneous  notion  that  ‘‘rich  food”  is  strengthening.  The 
strengthening  quality  of  food  depends  first  upon  its  digestibility,  and  second 
upon  the  proportion  ot  albuminous  elements  which  it  contains.  Sugar,  fat, 
spices  and  other  ingredients  which  are  added  to  food  in  making  it  “rich”  are 
of  only  secondary  importance  as  nutritive  elements  and  in  the  case  of  condi- 
ments of  exceedingly  doubtful  value,  if  not  wholly  worthless.  In  the  manner 
in  which  these  substances  are  combined  in  “rich  food”  they  are  worse  than 
worthless.  Really  rich  food  is  that  which  contains  a large  proportion  of  the 
essential  elements  of  food  in  a condition  to  be  easily  assimilated.  Graham 
bread,  oatmeal  mush,  pea-soup,  baked  beans  and  kindred  foods,  are  really 
rich,  and  in  the  highest  degree  strengthening. 

It  is  an  error  to  suppose  that  persons  engaged  in  laborious  occupations  re- 
quire a large  amount  of  flesh  food.  Persons  who  labor  hard  either  physically 
or  mentally,  need  a liberal  supply  of  food  rich  in  albuminous  elements. 
These  elements  are  furnished  by  such  food  as  pease  and  beans  in  even  larger 
quantities  than  in  the  best  beefsteak.  A pound  of  pease  contains  four  ounces 
of  albuminous  elements,  while  a pound  of  beefsteak  contains  but  about  three 
ounces.  Oatmeal  and  wheat  meal  are  also  very  rich  in  albuminous  elements. 
The  Scotch  laborers  who  subsist  largely  upon  oatmeal  porridge  are  said  to  be 
among  the  finest  developed  and  hardiest  men  in  the  world.  Numerous  sim- 
ilar evidences  in  favor  of  a liberal  supply  of  vegetable  food  might  be  given. 

It  is  an  error  to  suppose  that  the  system  is  better  supported  by  meals  at 
very  frequent  intervals  than  by  food  taken  in  accordance  with  the  known 
time  required  for  digestion.  It  has  long  been  the  custom  to  supply  laborers 
undergoing  severe  exertion,  as  during  harvest  time  among  farmers  with  two 
or  three  extra  meals  during  the  day,  thus  often  bringing  meals  within  two 
or  three  hours  of  each  other.  We  believe  that  the  practice  is  a bad  one, 
and  that  three  meals  at  most  are  much  better  than  more.  The  custom  of 
eating  five  meals  a day,  common  in  some  foreign  countries,  is  certainly 
unphysiological,  and  must  be  injurious.  Children  are  often  injured  by  too 
frequent  feeding ; not  only  wffiile  infants,  but  after  having  grown  so  as  to 
be  large  enough  to  attend  school,  being  very  often  supplied  by  fond  mothers 
with  luncheon  for  recess,  and  apples  to  eat  at  all. hours.  It  is  a most  unwise 
thing  to  allow  children  to  form  the  habit  of  nibbling  at  food  between  meals. 
The  fact  that  they  are  growing  and  need  a large  supply  of  nourishment  is  no 
apology  for  the  practice,  but  rather  makes  it  the  more  necessary  that  they 
should  be  regular  in  their  habits  in  order  to  secure  good  digestion.  The 
stomach  needs  rest  as  well  as  the  arms  and  limbs  and  other  organs  of  the 
body.  More  food  will  be  well  digested  with  three  meals  than  with  a larger 
number,  and  hence  a larger  amount  of  good  blood  will  be  produced  and 
more  healthy  tissue  formed. 


1128 


HINTS  FOR  THE  WELL. 


It  is  an  error  to  suppose  that  the  best  preparation  and  support  for  extra- 
ordinary exertion  is  increasing  the  amount  of  food  eaten  proportionately. 
It  is  generally  supposed  that  if  a man  has  an  unusually  large  days  work  to 
perform,  he  must  eat  an  unusually  large  breakfast  and  a proportionately 
large  dinner.  This  is  certainly  an  error.  Large  demands  upon  either  the 
muscular  or  the  nervous  system  for  the  time  being  detract  from  the  power 
to  digest.  The  stomach  requires  nervous  energy  to  enable  it  to  perform  its 
function.  If  the  nervous  forces  are  otherwise  engaged  or  used  they  can  not 
be  utilized  in  digestion ; hence  it  follows,  theoretically  at  least,  that  instead 
of  giving  the  organs  an  extra  task  in  preparation  for  an  extra  effort,  they 
should  be  required  to  perform  less  than  the  ordinary  amount  of  labor.  Ex- 
perience as  well  as  theory  supports  this  view.  Sir  Isaac  Newton  when  em- 
ployed in  his  most  ardous  labors,  lived  upon  bread  and  water,  and  fasted  for 
long  intervals.  General  Elliot,  the  famous  defender  of  Gibraltar,  is  said 
to  have  subsisted  for  a number  of  days  on  a little  boiled  rice.  The  wonderful 
“L’Homme  Serpente”  of  Paris,  always  fasted  for  twelve  hours  before  at- 
tempting to  perform  his  marvelous  feats  of  agility.  This  plan  not  only  se- 
cures a higher  degree  of  efficiency  in  the  effort  made,  but  prevents  in  great 
degree,  the  injury  liable  to  result  from  excessive  exertion.  When  required 
to  overwork  for  a succession  of  days,  we  have  found  that  we  were  not  onl} 
able  to  perform  much  more  work,  but  do  it  with  less  effort  at  the  time,  anc ' 
less  exhaustion  afterward,  when  taking  a greatly  reduced  quantity  of  food., 
than  when  attempting  to  do  the  same  work  and  still  taking  the  usual  quan- 
tity of  food.  We  have  no  doubt  that  a neglect  of  this  precaution  is  a not  un- 
frequent cause  of  the  sudden  deaths  of  which  we  so  often  receive  accounts,, 
especially  among  politicians  and  public  men.  Overloading  the  stomach 
and  overworking  the  brain  at  the  same  time  is  exceedingly  dangerous. 
The  man  who  overworks  mentally  must  be  temperate,  he  must  exercise  the 
greatest  moderation  in  his  eating,  and  must  totally  discard  all  stimulants 
and  narcotics.  A great  share  of  the  cases  of  apoplexy  which  occur,  happen 
when  the  stomach  is  full.  The  increased  clearness  of  intellect  which  results 
from  abstemiousness,  well  repays  one  for  all  the  self-denial  practiced. 


HINTS  FOR  THE  SICK-ROOM. 


1129 


HINTS  FOR  THE  SICK-ROOM. 


The  sick-room  should  be  the  lightest,  most  cheerful,  and  best  ventilated 
room  in  the  house.  Patients  in  the  sunny  wards  of  hospitals  recover  soon- 
est, and  the  sick,  in  nearly  all  cases,  lie  with  their  faces  to  the  light. 
Every  thing  should  be  kept  in  perfect  neatness  and  order.  Matting  is  better 
than  a carpet,  though,  when  the  latter  is  used,  is  may  be  kept  clean  by  throw- 
ing a few  damp  tea-leaves  over  only  a part  of  the  room  at  a time,  then  quietly 
brushing  them  up  with  a hand-broom.  A table  not  liable  to  injury,  a small 
wicker  basket  -with  compartments  to  hold  the  different  bottles  of  medicine 
and  a small  book  in  w^hich  to  write  all  the  physician’s  directions,  two  baskets 
made  on  the  same  plan  to  hold  glasses  or  cups,  screens  to  shade  the  light 
from  the  eyes  of  the  patient,  a nursery-lamp  with  which  to  heat  water,  beef- 
tea,  etc.,  a quill  tied  on  the  door-handle  with  which  the  nurse  can  notify 
others  that  the  patient  is  asleep  by  merely  passing  the  feather-end  through 
the  key-hole,  several  “ring  cushions”  to  give  relief  to  patients  compelled  to 
lie  continually  in  one  position  (these  cushions  are  circular  pieces  of  old  linen 
>ewed  together  and  stuffed  with  bran ; or  pads  may  be  used,  made  of  cotton- 
oatting  basted  into  pieces  of  old  muslin  of  any  size  required),  and  a sick 
couch  or  chair,  are  a few  of  the  many  conveniences  which  ought  to  be  in 
every  sick-room. 

Pure  air  in  a sick-room  is  of  the  utmost  importance.  In  illness,  the  poi- 
soned body  is  desperately  trying  to  throw  off,  through  lungs,  skin,  and  in 
every  possible  way,  the  noxious  materials  that  have  done  the  mischief.  Bad 
air  and  dirty  or  saturated  bed-clothes,  increase  the  difficulty  at  the  very  time 
when  the  weakened  powers  need  all  the  help  they  can  get.  Avoid  air  from 
kitchen  or  close  closets.  Outside  air  is  the  best,  but  if  needed,  there  should 
be  afire  in  the  room  to  take  off  the  chill.  A cold  is  rarely  taken  in  bed,  with 
the  bed-clothes  well  tucked  in,  but  oftener  in  getting  up  out  of  a w^arm  bed 
when  the  skin  is  relaxed.  Of  course  anything  like  a “chill”  should  be 
avoided,  and  it  is  not  well  to  allow  a draft  or  current  of  air  to  pass  directly 
over  the  bed  of  the  patient. 

A good  way  to  secure  a fresh  supply  of  air,  without  a draft,  is  to  have  a 
board  five  or  six  inches  wide,  and  as  long  as  the  width  of  the  window  ; raise 
the  lower  sash,  place  board  under  it,  and  the  fresh  air  finds  its  way  in  be- 
tween the  sash  by  an  upward  current. 


1130 


HINTS  FOR  THE  SICK-ROOM. 


Gas  Heater. 


This  simple  contrivance  slips  over  the  gas  burner,  and  furnishes  a se- 
cure stand  on  which  to  set  a cup  or  tea  pot,  when  it  will  heat  in  a few  mo- 
ments. It  is  invaluable  in  a sick  room  or  nursery, 
in  a house  where  gas  is  used,  and  when  gas  is  not 
used  there  are  substitutes  for  the  same  purpose 
which  burn  alcohol. 

In  disease  less  heat  is  produced  by  the  body 
' than  in  health.  This  decline  occurs  even  in  sum. 
mer,  and  is  usually  most  evident  in  the  early 
morning,  w^hen  the  vital  powers  slacken,  the  food 
of  the  previous  day  having  been  exhausted.  The 
sick  should  be  watched  between  midnight  and  ten  or  eleven  in  the  morning, 
and  if  anj^  decline  in  heat  is  noticed,  it  should  be  supplied  by  jugs  of  hot 
water.  A sick-room  should,  above  all,  be  quiet.  Any  rustling  sound,  such 
as  that  of  a silk  dress  or  shoes  which  creak,  should  be  entirely  avoided.  If 
it  is  necessary  t o put  coal  on  the  fire,  drop  it  on  quietl}’’  in  small  paper 
sacks,  or  rolled  in  paper  slightly  dampened.  Visitors  should  never  be  ad- 
mitted in  a sick-room.  The  necessary  attendants  are  usually  a sufficient 
annoyance  to  a w^eak  patient,  and  many  a tombstone  might  truthfully  and 
appropriately  be  inscribed : “Talked  to  death  by  well-meaning  friends.”  It 
is  not  generally  the  loudness  of  a noise  that  disturbs  the  sick,  but  the  sound 
that  produces  expectation  of  something  to  happen.  Some  can  not  bear  any 
noise.  Any  thing  that  suddenly  awakens  is  injurious.  Never  awaken  a 
sleeping  patient  unless  ordered  to  do  so  by  the  physician.  In  sickness  the 
Drain  is  weakened  with  the  rest  of  the  body,  and  sleep  strengthens  it.  If 
rest  is  interrupted  soon  after  it  is  begun,  the  brain  is  weakened  so  much  the 
more,  and  the  patient  becomes  irritable  and  wakeful.  If  sleep  lasts  longer, 
he  falls  asleep  again  more  readily.  Never  speak  within  the  hearing  of  the 
sick,  in  tones  which  can  not  be  fully  understood.  An  occasional  word,  or 
murmur  of  conversation,  or  whisper,  is  intolerable,  and  occasions  needless 
apprenhensioR. 

Few  persons  have  any  idea  of  the  exquisite  neatness  necessary  in  a sick- 
room. What  a well  person  might  endure  with  impunity,  may  prove  fatal  to 
a weak  patient.  Especially  the  bed  and  bedding  should  be  scrupulously 
clean.  In  most  diseases  the  functions  of  the  skin  are  disordered,  and  the 
clothing  becomes  saturated  with  foul  prespiration,  so  that  the  patient  alter- 
nates between  a cold  damp  after  the  bed  is  made,  and  a warm  damp  before, 
both  poison  to  his  system.  Sheets  which  are  used  should  be  dried  often 
from  this  poisonous  damp,  either  in  the  sun  or  by  the  fire,  and  the  mattress 
and  blanket  next  the  sheets  should  also  be  carefully  aired  as  often  as  pos- 
sible. In  changing  very  sick  patients  ( particularly  women  after  confinement) 
the  sheets  and  wearing-clothes  should  be  well  aired  by  hanging  by  the  fire 
for  two  days.  Move  the  patient  close  to  one  side  of  the  bed,  turn  the  under 
sheet  over  close  to  the  invalid,  then  smooth  the  mattress,  removing  any 
thing  that  may  be  on  it.  Make  ready  the  clean  sheet,  by  rolling  one-half 
into  a round  roll,  lay  this  close  by  the  invalid,  spread  the  other  half  smoothly 
over  the  bed.  Now  assist  the  patient  on  the  clean  sheet,  unroll  and  spread 
over  the  other  side  of  the  bed.  Have  the  upper  sheet  ready,  which  must  be  . 
carefully  and  gently  laid  over  the  invalid,  then  add  the  other  bed-clothes. 
(In  dressing  a blister  where  a bandage  has  to  be  placed  around  the  body, 
roll  one-half  the  bandage,  place  it  under  the  invalid,  so  that  the  attendant 
at  the  other  side  can  reach  it,  unrolling,  and  placing  it  around  the  patient 
without  disturbing  him.)  Light  blankets  are  best  for  coverings.  Never  use 
the  impervious  cotton  counterpanes  and  comforters.  The  clothing  should  be 
as  light  as  possible  with  the  requisite  warmth.  The  bed  should  be  low  and 

ffiaced  in  the  light,  and  as  a rule  the  pillows  should  be  low,  so  as  to  give  the 
ungs  free  play.  Scrofula  is  sometimes  caused  by  children  sleeping  with 


HINTS  FOR  THE  SICK-ROOM. 


1131 


their  heads  under  the  clothing,  and  patients  sometimes  acquire  the  same 
injurious,  habit. 

Trj^  one  of  the  smallest  coal  oil  lamps  for  the  night  lamp  in  the  sick- 
room. It  looks  very  small  but  it  will  make  as  much  light  as  a good  tallow 
candle,  and  will  not  drop  oil. 

Chamber  utensils  should  be  emptied  and  thoroughly  cleansed  immedi- 
ately after  using,  always  rinsing  with  cold  water,  as  hot  water  tends  to 
burn  the  odor  into  the  utensil.  Never  allow  them  standing  in  the  sick-room. 
Slop-pails,  into  which  nothing  should  be  allowed  to  go  except  the  waste 
water  from  the  wash  stand-  must  be  emptied  and  cleansed  thoroughly  at  least 
twice  a day. 

Bathing  should  always  be  done  under  the  advice  of  a physician,  but  soap 
and  water  are  great  restoratives.  In  most  cases,  washing  and  properly  dry- 
ing the  skin  gives  great  relief.  Care  should  be  taken,  while  sponging  and 
cleansing,  not  to  expose  too  great  a surface  at  a time,  so  as  to  check  perspira- 
tion. The  physician  will  regulate  the  temperature.  Sometimes  a little  vin- 
egar, whisky,  or  alcohol  added  to  the  water,  makes  the  bath  more  refresh- 
ing, and  bay-rum  for  the  face,  neck,  and  hands  is  often  acceptable.  When- 
ever the  bath  is  followed  by  a sense  of  oppression,  it  has  done  harm.  Its 
effect  should  be  comfort  and  relief. 

One  of  the  most  convenient  articles  to  be  used  in  the  sick-room  is  a sand- 
bag. Get  some  tine  sand,  dry  it  thoroughly  in  a kettle  on  the  stove,  make  a 
bag  about  eight  inches  square  of  flannel,  fill  it  with  the  dry  sand,  sew  the 
opening  carefully  together,  and  cover  the  bag  with  cotton  or  linen  cloth. 
This  will  prevont  the  sand  from  sifting  out,  and  will  also  enable  you  to  heat 
the  bag  quickly  by  placing  it  in  the  oven,  or  attempt  to  warm  the  feet  or 
hands  of  a sick  person  with  a bottle  of  hot  water  or  a brick.  The  sand  holds 
the  heat  a long  time,  and  the  bag  can  be  tucked  up  to  the  back  without  hurt- 
ing the  invalid.  It  is  a good  plan  to  make  two  or  three  of  the  bags  and  keep 
them  ready  for  use. 

It  is  well  for  both  nurse  and  patient  to  remember  that  nothing  relieves 
nausea  or  vomiting  sooner  than  drinking  hot  water  in  as  great  a quantity  and 
as  hot  as  possible.  Placing  the  hands  in  hot  water  up  to  the  wrists,  a flan- 
nel or  other  cloth,  dipped  in  hot  water  and  laid  five  or  six  folds  tnick,  on 
any  pained  part,  will  relieve  suffering  more  promptly  than  all  the  pain-kill- 
ers in  the  world.  Cover  the  wet  flannel  with  another  dry  one,  the  edges  of 
A’hich  extend  over  the  wet  ones  an  inch  or  more.  In  about  five  minutes 
'dip  the  wet  flannel  out  and  put  in  its  place  another  as  hot  as  can  be  han- 
dled, taking  care  to  let  as  little  cold  air  as  possible  touch  the  skin  over  which 
the  hot  flannel  has  been  applied.  When  pain  is  relieved  put  on  towels  wet 
in  cool  water  and  cover  with  flannel ; leave  for  an  hour  or  more,  remove  and 
wipe  dry,  rubbing  vigorously.  These  hot  applications  will  often  relieve  a 
violent,  dry  cough,  in  a few  minutes,  and  in  some  forms  of  croup  will  cure  in 
half  an  hour. 

Patients  are  often  killed  by  kindness.  A spoonful  of  improper  food,  or 
the  indulgence  of  some  whim,  may  prove  fatal.  A physicians  directions 
should  always  be  observed  with  the  strictest  fidelity.  Medicines  and  things 
which  will  be  wanted  during  the  night  should  all  be  prepared  before  the  pa- 
tient grows  sleepy.  Every  thing  should  be  done  quickly  but  quietly,  and 
with  precision.  In  talking,  sit  where  the  patient  can  hear  you  without  turn- 
ing his  head.  Never  ask  questions  when  he  is  doing  anything,  and  never 
lean  or  sit  upon  the  bed.  Sick  persons  generally  prefer  to  be  told  any  thing 
rather  than  to  have  it  read  to  them.  A change  in  the  ornaments  of  the  room 
is  a great  relief,  and  the  sick  especially  enjoy  bright  and  beautiful  things. 
Flowers,  which  do  not  have  a nungent  odor,  are  always  a great  delight. 


1132 


HINTS  FOR  THE  SICK-ROOM. 


In  convalescence  great  care  is  necessary,  and  the  physicians  directions 
should  be  implicitly  obeyed,  especially  in  regard  to  diet;  a failure  in  obedi- 
ence often  brings  on  a fatal  relapse.  A little  food  at  a time  and  often  repeat- 
ed, is  the  general  rule  for  the  sick.  A table-spoon  of  beef-tea,  every  half 
hour,  will  be  digested,  when  a cupful  every  three  or  four  hours  will  be  reject- 
ed. (In  giving  a drink  or  liquid  of  any  kind  a moustache-cup  will  be  found  a 
great  convenience.)  The  sick  can  rarely  take  solid  food  before  eleven  in  the 
morning,  and  a spoonful  of  beef-tea,  or  wha+f^ver  stimulant  the  physician 
has  ordered,  given  every  hour  or  two,  relieves  exhaustion.  Brandy,  whisky, 
or  other  alcoholic  stimulants,  however,  should  never  be  ordered  in  cases 
where  there  is  a hereditary  tendency  to  use  them,  or  where  they  have  been 
used  as  a beverage,  or  where  the  associations  of  the  patient  in  the  future 
would  be  likely  to  make  an  acquired  taste  for  them  a temptation.  In  most 
cases  substitutes  may  readily  be  found.  Untouched  food  should  never  be 
left  at  the  bed-side.  Every  meal  should  be  a surprise,  and  the  patient  should 
be  left  alone  while  eating.  Food  for  the  sick  must  be  of  the  best  quality,  and 
neatly  and  delicately  prepared.  The  cook  should  do  half  the  patient’s  di- 
gesting. Keep  the  cup  and  saucer  dry,  so  that  no  drops  will  fall  on  the  bed 
or  clothing. 

Beef-tea  contains  a certain  amount  of  nourishment,  and  may  be  given 
in  almost  any  inflammatory  disease.  Eggs  do  not  agree  with  all  patients, 
but  are  nourishing  food  when  admissible.  Tenderloin  of  beef,  cut  across 
the  grain,  and  broiled  on  live  coals,  without  smoke,  and  well  cooked  or 
rare,  as  the  physician  may  direct,  is  always  relished;  and  a tender  lamb- 
chop,  broiled  in  the  same  way,  with  the  fat  removed  before  serving,  is 
easily  digested  and  nutritious.  Roasted  potatoes,  very  mealy,  are  prefer- 
red to  o-ther  vegetables.  Milk  is  a representative  diet;  and,  when  it  agrees 
with  the  digestion,  is  probably  better  adapted  to  strengthen  the  body  in 
bickness  than  any  other  article  of  food,  but  it  must  be  fresh  and  pure. 
The  least  taint  of  sourness  is  injurious.  Butter-milk,  however,  w^hen  fresh, 
is  useful  in  fevers,  bilious  diseases  and  dyspepsia.  Cream  is  even  better 
than  milk,  and  is  less  apt  to  turn  acid  in  the  stomach.  Many  patients  thrive 
on  Indian-meal  mush  and  cream,  and  any  preparations  of  Indian-meal  are 
especially  good  for  persons  who  are  suffering  from  the  need  of  natural  warmth 
(see  Bread-making.)  Oat-meal,  Graham  and  rye  mush,  and  home-made 
brown-bread,  are  important  articles  of  diet,  generally  relished  by  the  sick. 
There  are  instances  of  persons  recovering  from  serious  illness  where  a table- 
spoon of  rye  mush,  and  half  tea-cup  butter-milk,  three  times  a day,  were  all 
that  could  be  taken  for  two  or  three  weeks.  A patient’s  craving  for  any  par- 
ticular article  of  food  should  be  communicated  to  the  physician,  as  it  is  often 
a valuable  indication  of  the  wants  of  the  system.  These  cravings  should  be 
gratified  whenever  possible.  Melons  act  on  the  kidneys,  and  are  good  in 
many  cases  of  fever,  bowel  complaint,  etc.  Celery  also  is  good  in  some  dis- 
eases of  the  kidneys,  and  in  nervousness  and  rheumatism.  Fresh,  crisp, 
raw  cabbage,  sliced  fine  and  eaten  with  good  vinegar,  is  easily  digested,  and 
often  highly  relished  by  a patient  suffering  from  a “weak  stomach.”  New 
cider  is  also  excellent  in  many  cases  of  nervous  dyspepsia.  Fruits  and  ber- 
ries— raw,  ripe  and  perfect — used  in  moderation,  are  admirable  remedies  in 
cases  of  constipation  and  its  attendant  diseases.  The  grape  has  a wide  range 
of  curative  qualities.  The  seeds  are  excellent  for  costiveness,  the  pulp  is  very 
nutritious  and  soothing  to  irritated  bowels,  while  the  skins,  if  chewed,  act 
as  an  astringent.  Raw  beef  is  excellent  in  dysentery ; it  should  be  minced  fine, 
and  given  in  doses  of  a spoonful  at  a time  every  four  hours,  the  patient,  in  the 
meantime,  eating  nothing  else.  Bananas  or  baked  apples  are  good  in  chronic 
diarrhoea.  A rind  of  bacon  is  good  for  teething  children  to  chew.  Rice-water 
or  rice- jelly  are  advisable  in  many  cases  of  convalescence  from  acute  fever, 


HINTS  FOR  THE  SICK-ROOM. 


1133 


summer  complaint  and  like  diseases.  Fresh  pop-corn,  nicely  salted,  clam- 
broth,  the  juice  of  a roasted  oyster  in  the  shell,  soda-water,  and  peppermint- 
tea  are  remedies  for  sick  stomach.  Vegetable  acid  drinks,  herb-teas,  toast- 
water,  and  all  such  drinks  are  often  much  relished.  A custard  made  from  a 
preparation  of  liquid  rennet,  as  directed  on  bottle,  is  a delicate  dish.  But- 
tered toast,  either  dry  or  dipped,  though  so  generally  given,  is  rarely  a suit- 
able article  for  the  sick,  as  melted  oils  are  very  difficult  of  digestion.  In 
quinsy, diphtheria,  inflammation  of  lungs, typhus  and  other  putrid  fevers,  acids 
are  of  very  great  benefit.  Take  a handful  of  dried  currants,  pour  over  them 
a pint  of  boiling  water,  let  them  stand  half  a minute  without  stirring,  then 
drain  ofl"  the  water,  strain  it  through  a cloth,  and  set  it  away  to  cool ; when 
given  to  the  patient,  dilute  w^ell,  so  that  the  acid  taste  is  very  slight.  Acid 
fruits  should  be  eaten  early  in  the  day.  Above  all,  it  should  be  remember- 
ed, that  it  is  not  the  nourishment  which  food  contains,  but  that  which  the 
stomach  can  assimilate,  that  builds  up ; a sick  person  will  thrive  on  what 
would  not  sustain  a well  person. 

It  is  of  the  utmost  importance  that  the  food  be  delicately  and  carefully 
administered,  and  this  should  never  be  left  to  servants.  It  should  be  made 
as  attractive  as  possible,  served  in  the  choicest  ware,  with  the  cleanest  of 
napkins,  and  the  brightest  of  silver.  If  tea  is  served,  it  should  be  freshly 
drawn,  in  a dainty  cup,  with  a block  of  white  sugar,  and  afew  drops  of  sweet 
cream.  Toast  should  be  thin,  symmetrical,  well  yellowed,  free  from  crust, 
and  just  from  the  fire.  Steak  should  be  a cut  of  the  best  tenderloin,  deli- 
cately broiled,  and  served  with  the  nicest  of  roasted  potatoes.  The  attention 
given  to  these  simple  matters,  is,  in  many  cases,  worth  more  than  the  phys- 
ician’s prescriptions. 

» The  craving  for  tea  and  coffee  is  almost  universal  with  the  sick.  A mod- 
erate quantity  is  a great  restorative  ; but  an  excess,  especially  of  coflTee,  im- 
pairs digestion.  Neither  should  be  given  after  five  in  the  afternoon,  as  they 
increase  excitement  and  cause  sleeplessness ; but  sleeplessness  from  ex- 
haustion in  the  early  morning  is  often  relieved  by  a cup  of  tea  or  coffee.  The 
patient’s  taste  will  decide  which  should  be  used.  In  cases  of  thirst,  the 
physician  will  prescribe  wbat  other  drink  should  be  given  to  satisfy  it.  Co- 
coa is  often  craved  by  the  sick,  and  possesses  no  stimulating  qualities.  Crust- 
cofiPee  is  very  nourishing. 

A very  simple  means  of  refreshing  the  nurse,  and  a valuable  disinfectant, 
if  the  nature  of  the  invalid’s  complaint  does  not  forbid  it — that  is  seldom  the 
case — is  to  put  some  pure,  fresh-ground  005*00  on  a saucer,  or  other  dish, 
and  in  the  center  place  a very  small  piece  of  camphor-gum,  and  touch  a 
match  to  it.  As  the  gum  burns,  allow  sufficient  coffee  to  consume  to  per- 
vade the  atmosphere  with  the  aroma ; it  is  wonderful  in  its  invigorating 
effects. 

The  following  recipe  makes  a delicious,  refreshing  and  cooling  wash  for 
the  sick  room : 

Take  of  rosemary,  wormwood,  lavender,  rue,  sage  and  mint  a large  hand- 
ful of  each.  Place  in  a stone  jar,  and  turn  over  it  one  gallon  of  strong  cider 
vinegar,  cover  closely,  and  keep  near  the  fire  for  four  days ; then  strain  and 
add  one  ounce  of  pounded  camphor  gum.  Bottle  and  keep  tightly  corked. 

There  is  a French  legend  connected  with  this  preparation  (called  viniagre 
a quartre  voleurs).  During  the  plague  at  Marseilles,  a band  of  robbers  plun- 
dered the  dying  and  the  dead  without  injury  to  themselves.  They  were  im- 
prisoned, tried  and  condemned  to  die,  but  were  pardoned  on  condition  of 
disclosing  the  secret  whereby  they  could  ransack  houses  infected  with  the 
tferrible  scourge.  They  gave  the  above  recipe.  Another  mode  of  using  it,  is 
to  wash  the  face  and  hands  with  it  before  exposing  one’s  self  to  any  infec- 


1134 


HINTS  FOR  THE  SICK-ROOM. 


tion.  It  is  very  aromatic  and  refreshing  in  the  sick-room ; so,  if  it  can  ac- 
complish nothing  more,  it  is  of  great  value  to  nurses. 


Food  for  the  Sick. 


Crust  Coffee — Toast  bread  very  brown,  pour  on  boiling  water,  strain  and 
add  cream  and  sugar  and  nutmeg,  if  desired. 

Cream  Soup. — One  pint  boiling  water,  half  tea-cup  cream;  add  broken 
piece  of  toasted  bread  and  a little  salt. 

Parched,  Rice. — Cook  in  custard-kettle  a half  cup  parched  rice  in  one  pint 
boiling  salted  water ; when  done  serve  with  cream  and  sugar.  ■ 

Wine  Whey. — One  pint  of  boiling  milk,  two  wine-glasses  of  wine,  boil  a 
moment,  stirring  well ; take  out  the  curd,  sweeten  and  flavor  the  whey. 

Raspberry  Relish. — To  each  pint  of  berry  juice  add  one  pound  of  sugar. 
Let  it  stand  over  night ; next  morning  boil  ten  minutes,  and  bottle  for  use. 

Tamarind  Whey. — Mix  an  ounce  of  tamarind  pulp  with  a pint  of  milk, 
strain  and  sweeten.  Or,  simply  stir  tablespoon  tamarinds  into  pint  water. 

Butter-milk  Stew. — Boil  one  pint  butter-milk,  add  a small  lump  butter, 
and  sweeten  to  taste.  Some  add  teaspoon  ginger  and  honey  instead  of  sugar. 

Chicken  Broth. — Take  the  first  and  second  joints  of  a chicken,  boil  in  one 
quart  of  water  till  very  tender,  and  season  with  a very  little  salt  and  pepper. 

Raw  Beef  Tea. — Cut  up  lean,  fresh  meat,  soak  eight  or  ten  hours  in  a 
small  quantity  of  cold  water.  This  is  good  after  severe  cases  of  typhoid 
fever. 

Alum  Whey. — Mix  half  ounce  powdered  alum  with  one  pint  sweet  milk, 
iStrain  and  add  sugar  and  nutmeg ; it  is  good  in  hemorrhages,  and  sometimes 
lor  colic. 

Pearled  Wheat  Pudding. — One  pint  of  wheat,  one  half  gallon  new  milk, 
Hweeten  and  flavor  to  taste,  bake  one  hour.  This  is  a delicious  and  simple 
oudding. 

To  Remove  Grease  from  Broths  for  the  Sick. — After  pouring  in  dish, 
pass  clean  white  wrapping-paper  quickly  over  the  top  of  broth,  using  several 
pieces,  till  all  grease  is  removed. 

Sassafras  Drink. — Take  the  pith  of  sassafras  boughs,  break  in  small 
pieces  and  let  soak  in  cold  water  till  the  water  becomes  glutinous.  This  is 
good  nourishment,  and  much  relished. 

Baked  Milk. — Bake  two  quarts  milk  for  eight  or  ten  hours  in  a moderate 
oven,  in  a jar  covered  with  writing  paper,  tied  down.  It  will  then  be  as  thick 
as  cream,  and  may  be  used  by  weak  persons. 

Egg  Gruel. — Beat  the  yolks  of  an  egg  with  a tablespoon  of  sugar,  beating 
the  white  separately ; add  a tea-cup  of  boiling  water  to  the  yolk,  then  stir  in 
the  white,  and  add  any  seasoning ; good  for  a cold. 

Sago  Custard. — Soak  two  tablespoons  sago  in  a tumoier  of  water  an  hour 
or  more  then  boil  in  same  Water  until  clear,  and  add  a tumbler  of  sweet 
lailk ; when  it  boils,  add  sugar  to  taste,  then  a beaten  egg  and  flavoring. 


HINTS  FOR  THE  SICK-ROOM, 


1135 


English  Gruel. — Desseft  spoon  each  meal  and  flour  mixed  with  half  a 
pint  cold  milk.  Stir  this  into  a pint  boiling  milk,  slightly  salted  and  boil  in 
custard  kettle,  stirring  to  keep  smooth. 

Jellice. — One-half  teaspoon  of  currant,  lemon  or  cranberry  jelly  put  into 
a goblet,  beat  well  with  two  tablespoons  water,  fill  up  with  ice-water  and  you 
have  a refreshing  drink  for  a fever  patient. 

Sea-moss  Farine. — Dessert-spoon  of  sea-moss  farine,  quart  boiling  water ; 
steep  a few  minutes,  sweeten  and  flavor  with  lemon  (leaving  out  rinds) . This 
is  a very  pleasant  drink  and  is  good  for  colds. 

Raw  Beef. — Chop  fresh,  lean  beef  (the  best  steak  or  roast)  very  fine, 
sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  put  between  thin  slices  of  Graham  oi 
w’hite  buttered-bread.  This  is  a very  nutritious  diet. 

Fever  Drink. — Pour  cold  water  on  wheat  bran,  let  boil  half  an  hour, 
strain  and  add  sugar  and  lemon-juice.  Pour  boiling  water  on  flax-seed,  let 
stand  till  it  is  ropy,  pour  into  hot  lemonade  and  drink. 

Milk  Porridge. — Soak  pint  best  oatmeal  in  a pint  water  overnight,  in  the 
morning  strain  and  boil  the  w^ater  from  it  half  an  hour,  add  pint  milk  with  (f 
little  salt,  boil  and  serve  warm  with  cream  and  sugar. 

Warming  Gup. — This  is  very  conven- 
ient for  the  sick  room  or  nursery,  as  the 
stem  and  cross  can  be  dropped  in  any 
lamp  chimney  and  the  cup  placed  upon 
it;  thus  heating  milk,  broth,  etc.,  very 
easily  and  quickly. 

Oatmeal  Blanc-Mange.  — A delicious 
blanc-mange  is  made  by  stirring  two  heap- 
ing tablespoons  of  oatmeal  into  a little  cold  water,  then 
stir  with  a quart  of  boiling  milk,  flavor  and  pour  into 
molds  to  cool,  when  cream  or  jelly  may  be  eaten  with  it. 

Vegetable  Soup. — Two  tomatoes,  two  potatoes,  two 
onions,  and  one  tablespoon  rice  ; boil  the  whole  in  one  quart  water  for  one 
hour,  season  with  salt,  dip  dry  toast  in  this  till  quite  soft,  and  eat;  this  may 
be  used  when  animal  food  is  not  allowed. 

Mulled  Buttermilk. — Put  on  good  buttermilk,  and  when  it  boils,  add  the 
well -beaten  yolk  of  an  egg.  Let  boil  up  and  serve.  Or,  stir  into  boiling  but- 
termilk thickening  made  of  cold  buttermilk  and  flour.  This  is  excellent  for 
convalescing  patients. 

Barley  Water. — Add  two  ounces  pearled  barley  to  half  pint  boiling  water ; 
let  simmer  five  minutes,  drain  and  add  two  quarts  boiling  water ; add  two 
ounces  sliced  figs,  and  two  ounces  stoned  raisins ; boil  until  reduced  to  a 
quart ; strain  for  drink. 

Currant  Shrub. — Make  the  same  as  jelly,  but  boil  only  ten  minutes ; when 
cool,  bottle  and  cork  tight,  (see  directions  for  canned  fruits).  Raspberry, 
strawberry  and  blackberry  shrubs  are  made  in  the  same  way ; when  used, 
put  in  two-thirds  ice-water. 

Beef- Tea  Soup. — To  one  pint  of  ‘'beef  essence”  (made  in  a bottle  as  di- 
rected in  recipe  on  a succeeding  page),  quite  hot,  add  a tea-cup  of  the  best 
cream,  well  heated,  into  which  the  yolk  of  a fresh  egg  has  been  previously 
stirred,  mix  carefully  together,  and  season  slightly,  and  serve. 


1136 


HINTS  FOR’ THE  SICK-ROOM. 


Cinnamon  Tea. — To  a half  pint  fresh,  new  milk  add  stick  or  ground  cin- 
namon enough  to  flavor,  and  white  sugar  to  taste ; bring  to  boiling  point, 
and  take  either  warm  or  cold.  Excellent  for  diarrhea  in  adults  or  children. 
A few  drops  or  a teaspoon  of  brandj^  may  be  added,  if  the  case  demands. 


Sago-Jelly  Pudding. — Wash  thoroughly  one  teacup  of  sago,  cook  it  in 
three  pints  of  water  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes,  till  perfectly  clear,  add  a very 
little  salt ; stir  in  half  a jelly-glass  of  currant,  grape  or  other  jelly  and  two 
spoonfuls  sugar.  Mold  and  serve  cold  with  cream  and  sugar;  or ‘eat  warm. 


Poached  Eggs. — This  is  a very  delicate  way  of  preparing  eggs,  and  when 

served  on  slices  of  toast,  gar 
nished  with  sprigs  of  crisp  pars-- 
ley,  they  make  a very  pretty  as 
well  as  appetizing  dish.  Poach 
them  as  directed  in  dept. of  Eggs 

Arrowroot  Custard.  — One 
tablespoon  of  arrowroot,  one 
Poached  Eggs.  pint  of  milk,  one  egg,  two  table- 

spoons sugar  ; mix  the  arrowroot  with  a little  of  the  cold  milk,  put  the  rest 
of  milk  on  the  fire,  and  boil,  and  stir  in  the  arrowroot  and  egg  and  sugar, 
well  beaten  together ; scald  and  pour  into  cups  to  cool ; any  flavoring  the 
invalid  prefers  may  be  added. 


Broiled  Chicken,  Quail,  Squirrel  or  Woodcock. — Any  of  these  must  be 
tender.  Take  the  breast  of  the  first  two,  or  the  thighs  of  the  others  ; place 
on  hot  coals  or  on  a broiler,  turning  often  to  prevent  burning.  When  done, 
remove  the  burned  parts,  if  any,  season  slightly  with  butter,  pepper  and  salt, 
and  serve  at  once. 


Tapioca  Jelly. — One  half  pint  tapioca,  one  quart  water,  juice  and  some 
of  the  grated  rind  of  a lemon ; soak  the  tapioca  for  three  or  four  hours  in  the 
water,  sweeten  it  and  boil  for  one  hour  in  a custard-kettle,  or  until  quite 
clear,  stirring  it  often.  When  almost  done,  stir  in  the  lemon,  and  when 
sufficiently  cooked  pour  into  molds.  Serve  with  sweetened  cream. 

Panada. — Take  two  richest  crackers,  pour  on  boiling  water,  let  stand  a 
few  minutes,  beat  up  an  egg,  sv/eeten  to  taste,  and  stir  all  together ; grate  in 
nutmeg  and  add  brandy  or  wine  to  suit  the  invalid.  Or,  break  in  a pint 
bowl  toasted  bread  and  pour  over  boiling  water,  adding  a small  lump  of  but' 
ter,  two  tablespoons  wine,  brandy  or  whisky ; sweeten  to  taste  and  flavor 
trith  nutmeg  or  cinnamon. 

Clam  Broth. — This  is  excellent  for  invalids,  being  the  best  food  known 
for  giving  tone  to  the  deranged  stomach  ; it  may  even  be  given  in  small  quan- 
tities to  sick  children  over  six  months  old.  Select  small  clams  ; break  the 
shells,  and  pour  the  clams  with  the  juice  into  a small  boiler,  or  stew-pan; 
add  enough  water  to  modify  the  salty  taste,  and  boil  for  ten  minutes.  Strain 
and  it  is  ready  for  use. 

Rice  Jelly. — Mix  one  heaping  tablespoon  of  rice-flour  with  cold  water 
until  it  is  a smooth  paste,  add  a scant  pint  of  boiling  water,  sweeten  with 
loaf-sugar ; boil  until  quite  clear.  If  the  jelly  is  intended  for  a patient  with 
summer  complaint,  stir  with  a stick  of  cinnamon  ; if  for  one  with  fever,  flavor 
with  lemon  juice,  and,  mold.  Rice-water  is  made  in  the  same  manner,  by 
using  twice  the  quantity  of  boiling  water. 

Graham  Gems  for  Invalids. — Mix  Graham  flour  wuth  haix  milk  and  half 
water,  and  add  a little  salt,  beat,  making  the  batter  thin  enough  to  pour ; 
nave  the  gem-pan  very  hot,  grease  it,  fill  as  quickly  as  possible  and  return 


HINTS  FOR  THE  SICK-ROOM. 


1137 


immediately  to  a hot  oven ; bake  about  thirty  minutes.  Practice  will  teach 
just  the  proper  consistency  of  the  batter,  and  the  best  temperature  erf  the 
oven.  It  will  not  be  good  unless  well  beaten. 

Raspberry  Vinegar. — Pour  over  two  quarts  of  raspberries  in  a stone  jar, 
one  quart  of  very  best  vinegar ; let  stand  twenty-four  hours,  strain,  and  pour 
liquor  over  fresh  fruit,  and  let  stand  in  the  same  way ; allow  one  pound  sugar 
to  a pint  of  juice ; put  into  a stone  jar  and  set  in  pot  of  boiling  water  one 
hour;  skim  well,  put  into  bottles,  cork  and  seal  tight.  Diluted  with  water 
this  is  very  nice  for  the  sick.  Toasted  bread  may  be  eaten  with  it. 

Blackberry  Wine — To  every  gallon  of  bruised  berries,  add  half  a gallon  of 
soft  cold  water ; let  stand  twenty-four  hours,  then  strain.  To  every  gallon 
juice,  add  three  pounds  sugar ; fill  a cask  and  let  it  remain  without  moving 
or  shaking  until  it  has  fermented,  which  it  will  have  done  in  six  weeks.  Put 
over  the  mouth  of  the  cask  a thin  piece  of  muslin.  When  fermentation  has 
ceased,  draw  off  the  v/ine  and  bottle  without  shaking  cask.  Cork  and  seal. 

Strawberry  Acid. — Dissolve  five  ounces  tartaric  acid  in  two  quarts  of 
water,  and  pour  it  upon  twelve  pounds  of  strawberries  in  a porcelain  kettle ; 
let  it  simmer  forty-eight  hours  ; strain  it,  taking  care  not  to  bruise  the  fruit. 
To  every  pint  of  juice  add  one  and  one-half  pounds  of  sugar  and  stir  until 
dissolved,  then  leave  it  a few  days.  Bottle  and  cork  tightly;  if  a slight  fer- 
mentation takes  place  leave  the  cork  out  a few  days.  Then  cork,  seal  and 
keep  bottles  in  a cool  place. 

Royal  Strawberry  Acid. — Take  three  pounds  ripe  strawberries,  two  ounces 
citric  acid,  and  one  quart  of  water ; dissolve  the  acid  in  the  water  and  pour 
it  over  the  berries ; let  them  stand  in  a cool  place  twenty-four  hours,  draw 
off,  and  pour  in  three  pounds  more  of  berries,  and  let  it  stand  twenty-four 
hours.  Add  to  the  liquor  its  own  weight  of  sugar,  boil  three  or  four  minutes 
each  day  for  three  days,  then  cork  tightly  and  seal.  Keep  in  a dry  and  cool 
place . 

Arrowroot  Blanc-mange. — Make  as  directed  in  Creams  and  Custards, 


cooling  in  individual  molds.  In 
serving,  a dainty  way  is  on  a 
1 ray  with  cream  and  sugar  and 
a small  vase  of  flowers,  as  il- 
lustrated. Any  of  the  blanc- 
manges or  jellies  given  in  this 
department  may  be  served  thus 
and  prove  mucli  more  appetiz- 
ing to  the  patient. 


Oatmeal  Cakes. — Take  equal 
parts  fine  oatmeal  and  water ; 
mix  and  pour  into  a pan  about 


one-third  of  an  inch  deep  and 

bake  half  an  hour,  or  until  crisp  and  slightly  brown  ; or  make  half  an  inch 
thick  and  bake  soft  like  a johnny-cake  ; or  if  the  oven  is  not  hot  enough  to 
bake,  pour  it  into  a frying-pan,  cover  it  and  hake  it  on  the  top  of  the  stove, 
dishing  it  when  brown  on  the  bottom.  It  is  not  good  cold.  If  any  be  left 
warm  it  up  and  it  is  almost  as  good  as  new.  ’ 

Oatmeal  Pie-crust.— is  made  exactly  like  the  dough  for  crackers  ; it 
may  be  rolled  a very  little  thinner.  It  bakes  quickly,  so  that  care  must  be 
taken  not  to  scorch  it  in  cooking  the  contents  of  the  pie.  It  is  not  suited  for 
an  upper  crust,  but  does  admirably  for  pies  that  require  but  one  crust.  It  is 


72 


1138 


HINTS  FOR  THE  SICK-ROOJM. 


just  the  thing  for  those  v/ho  do  not  think  shortened  pie-crusts  wholesome, 
and  it  is  good  enough  for  any  one.  One  can  eat  it  with  as  much  impunity  as 
so  much  oatmeal  mush  and  fruit  sauce. 

Mutton  Broth. — Put  two  pounds  of  mutton  and  two  quarts  cold  water  to 
boil,  add  one  tablespoon  rice  washed  carefully  through  several  waters.  Let 
it  boil  till  the  meat  will  leave  the  bone,  and  the  rice  is  cooked  to  a liquid 
mass.  Take  from  the  lire,  season  with  a little  salt ; skin,  if  preferred.  If  for 
a patient  with  flux  leave  on  all  the  fat  (the  more  fat  the  better.) 

This  is  also  a nice  way  to  make  Chicken  Broth.  Take  a chicken  size  of  a 
quail  and  prepare  as  above. 


Uncooked  Eg-g. — This  is  quite  palatable,  and  very  strengthening,  and  may 
be  prepared  in  a variety  of  ways.  Break  an  egg  into  a 
goblet  and  beat  thoroughly,  add  a teaspoon  sugar,  and 
after  beating  a moment  add  a tea-spoon  or  two  of  brandy 
or  port  wine  ; beat  well  and  add  as  much  rich  milk,  or  part 
cream  and  milk,  as  there  is  of  the  mixture.  Or,  omit 
brand}^  and  flavor  with  any  kind  of  spice ; or,  milk  need 
not  be  added,  or  the  egg  and  sugar  may  be  beaten  sepa- 
rately, wine  or  brandy  added,  stirring  in  lightly  the  well- 
whipped  whites  at  the  last,  and  thus  made  it  should  fill  a 
goblet  to  overflowing.  Juice  of  a lemon  in  place  of  brandy 
gives  Lemon  Egg-nog. 

Oatmeal  Gruel. — Put  two  heaping  tablespoons  oatmeal 
in  one  quart  cold  water,  stir  till  it  commences  to  boil,  then 
cook  one  hour,  stirring  occasionally  ; do  not  let  it  scorch ; 
season  with  salt,  sugar,  and  any  spice  desired.  For  infants  and  very  sick 
patients  it  must  be  strained,  and  not  salted',  or  take  two  cups  Irish  or 
Scotch  oatmeal,  two  quarts  water  and  teaspoon  salt.  Let  oatmeal  soak 
overnight  in  half  the  water.  In  the  morning  strain  through  a coarse 
netting  bag,  pressing  through  all  the  farinaceous  matter  that  will  go.  Add. 
the  rest  of  the  water  with  the  salt,  and  boil  down  until  it  begins  to  thicken 
perceptibly.  Let  it  cool  enough  to  become  almost  a jelly,  and  eat  with 
powdered  sugar  and  cream. 


Cracked  Wheat  Pudding. — To  one  quart  new  or  unskimmed  milk  add  one- 
third  cup  cracked  wheat,  same  of  sugar  (or  a little  more  if  preferred),  a little 
salt  and  small  piece  of  stick  cinnamon.  Place  in  moderate  oven  and  bake 
two  hours  or  longer.  When  about  half  done  stir  in  the  crust  already  formed, 
and  it  will  form  another  sufficiently  brown.  When  done  the  wheat  will  be 
very  soft,  and  the  pudding  of  a creamy  consistency.  It  can  be  eaten  hot  or 
cold,  and  is  nice  for  invalids.  A handful  of  raisins  added  is  considered  an 
improvement  by  some. 


Fruit  Farina. — Sprinkle  three  tablespoonfuls  of  farina  into  one  quart  of 
boiling  milk,  using  a sauce-pan  set  into  a kettle  of  boiling  water,  in  order  to 
prevent  burning;  flavor  and  sweeten  to  taste,  and  boil  for  half  an  hour,  stir- 
ring occasionally  ; then  add  one  pint  of  any  ripe  berries,  or  sliced  apples,  and 
boil  until  the  fruit  is  cooked,  about  twenty  minutes : the  pudding  may  be 
boiled  in  a mold  or  a cloth  after  the  fruit  is  added.  Serve  with  powdered 
sugar. 

Broiled  Beefsteak. — Many  times  a small  piece  of  “tenderloin”  or  “porter- 
house” is  more  wholesome,  for  an  invalid,  than  broths  and  teas;  and  with 
this  may  be  served  a potato,  roasted  in  the  ashes,  dressed  with  sweet  cream 
(or  a little  butter)  and  salt,  or  nicely  cooked  tomatoes . Have  the  steak  from 
half  an  inch  to  an  inch  thick,  broi'.  cai'^Iully  two  or  three  minutes  over  hot 


HINTS- FOR  THE  SICK-ROOM. 


1139 


coals,  turning  often  with  a knife  and  fork,  so  as  not  to  pierce  it.  When  done, 
put  on  a small  dish,  season  slightlj^  witli  salt  and  pepper,  and  a small  bit  of 
butter,  garnish  with  the  potato,  and  serve  hot. 

Stewed  Oysters.-  Itemove  all  bits  of  shell  from  a half  dozen  fresh,  select 
oysters,  place  in  a colander,  pour  over  a teacup  of  water,  drain,  place  liqtior 
drained  off  in  a porcelain-lined  sauce-pan,  let  come  to  boiling  point,  skim 
well ; pour  off  into  another  heated  dish,  all  except  the  last  spoonful  which 
will  contain  sediment  and  bits  of  shell  which  may  have  been  overlooked, 
wipe  out  sauce-pan,  return  liquor,  add  oysters,  let  come  to  the  boiling  point, 
add  a small  lump  of  good  butter,  a teaspoon  of  cracker-dust,  a very  little 
cayenne  pepper  and  salt,  and  a half  teacup  fresh,  sweet  cream. 

Oatmeal  Relish. — Boil  one  gill  oatmeal  in  three  pints  boiling  water  till 
water  is  reduced  one-third,  then  strain  and  cool  the  gruel,  let  settle  and  pour 
the  liquid  part  carefully  away  from  the  sediment.  Use  it  hot  or  cold  as  pre- 
ferred with  sugar  and  any  fruit  juice.  Two  tablespoons  of  raisins  may  be 
added  to  gruel  while  boiling.  The  effect  of  raisins  is  gently  laxative  but  if 
used  in  excess  they  sometimes  cause  indigestion  and  flatulence. 

To  Make  Kumyss. — Take  three  quarts  of  good,  rich,  sweet  milk ; one 
quart  of  hot  water,  in  which  dissolve  one-half  pint  sugar ; add  the  hot  water 
to  the  milk ; when  the  mixture  is  luke  warm  add  three  tablespoons  of  brew- 
er’s yeast;  set  in  a moderately  warm  place,  stir  often,  and,  when  it  begins 
to  sparkle  (which  will  be  in  .gbout  one  and' a half  hours),  put  it  into  strong 
bottles  and  cork  tight ; put  in  a cool  place  and  in  eight  hours  it  will  be  ready 
fornse.  Procure  a champagne  tap  (cost  $1),  and  draw  the  best  kumyss 
ever  made. 

Prepared  Flour  for  Summer  Complaint. — Take  a double  handful  of  flour, 
tie  up  tightly  in  cloth  and  put  in  a kettle  of  boiling  water,  boil  from  three  to 
six  hours,  take  out,  remove  the  cloth,  and  you  will  have  a hard,  round 
ball.  Keep  in  a dry,  cool  place,  and  when  wanted  for  use,  prepare  by  plac- 
ing some  sweet  milk  (new  alwaws  preferred)  to  boil,  and  grating  into  the 
milk  from  the  ball  enough  to  make  it  as  thick  as  you  desire,  stirring  it  just 
1 )efore  removing  from  the  stove  with  a stick  of  cinnamon ; this  gives  it  a 
])leasant  flavor  ; put  a little  salt  into  the  milk.  Very  good  for  children  hav- 
]ng  the  summer  complaint. 

Milk  Porridge. — Place  on  stove  in  skillet  one  pint  new  sweet  milk  and  a 
very  little  pinch  of  salt;  when  it  boils  have  ready  sifted  flour,  and  sprinkle 
with  one  hand  into  the  boiling  milk,  stirring  all  the  while  with  a spoon. 
Keep  adding  flour  until  it  is  about  the  consistency  of  thick  molasses ; eat 
warm  with  a little  butter  and  sugar.  This  is  excellent  for  children  suffering 
with  summer  complaint.  Or,  mix  the  flour  wilh  a little  cold  milk  until  a 
smooth  paste,  and  then  stir  into  the  boiled  milk.  Or  break  an  egg  into  the 
dry  flour  and  rub  it  with  the  hands  until  it  is  all  in  fine  crumbs  (size  of  a 
grain  of  wheat),  then  stir  this  mixture  into  the  boiling  milk. 

Bran  Biscuit — Take  cup  bran  (as  prepared  by  Davis  & Taylor,  24  Canal 
Street,  Boston),  five  cups' sifted  flour;  scald  the  bran  at  tea-time  with  half 
pint  boiling  w’ater ; when  cool,  pour  it  into  the  middle  of  the  flour,  add  one- 
half  cup  good  yeast  (or  part  of  a yeast-cake,  soaked  till  light),  one  teaspoon 
salt,  and  two  tablespoons  sugar ; wet  with  new  milk  into  soft  dough,  much 
thicker  than  butter.  Let  it  stand,  covered  closely,  in  a warm  place  to  rise. 
In  the  morning,  spoon  into  hot  gem  or  patty-pans,  and  bake  in  a quick  oven 
to  a brown  crust.  Part  of  the  dough  may  be  baked  in  a small  loaf  to  be  eaten 
w’arm.  (It  can  be  made  with  water  by  using  a little  butter,  but  it  is  not  so 
good.)any  remaining  may  be  split  for  dinner  or  toasted  for  tea. 


1140 


HINTS  FOR  THE  SICK-ROOM. 


Oat-meal  Wafers. — Use  equal  parts  water  and  oat-meal,  make  as  thin  as 
you  can  shake  it  out  on  the  bottom  of  pan,  so  that  when  done  it  will  not  be 
thicker  than  a knife-blade  anywhere,  and  in  most  places  you  can  see  day- 
light through  it.  Bake  very  slowly  until  quite  dry,  watching  that  it  may  not 
scorch.  In  taking  out  it  will  probably  break  into  many  fragments,  but  they 
will  be  delicious  ones — not  shapely  for  the  table,  but  so  temptingly  savored 
that  any  delicate  person  who  can  eat  at  all  will  find  them  satisfying,  nour- 
ishing, and  easily  digested— -far  better  than  the  standard  sick  dish  called 
gruel.  As  for  the  well  folks,  put  your  wafers  out  of  the  way  if  you  expect  to 
find  any  of  them  for  the  invalid’s  next  meal. 

Blackberry  Cordial. — Put  a half  bushel  of  blackberries  in  a preserving- 
kettle  and  cook  until  scalded  through  well ; strain  and  press  out  all  the  juice  ; 
put  juice  in  kettle  with  the  following  spices  well  broken  up  and  put  into  a 
bag;  one-quarter  pound  allspice,  two  ounces  cinnamon- bark  two  ounces 
cloves,  and  two  nutmegs  ; add  loaf-sugar,  about  one  pound  to  every  quart  of 
juice  or  more  if  preferred,  and  cook  slowly  ten  or  fifteen  minutes,  remove 
from  the  fire,  let  cool  a little,  and  add  good  pure  brandy  in  the  proportion  of 
one  pint  to  every  three  pints  of  juice.  A smaller  quantity  may  be  made, 
using  the  same  proportions.  This  is  an  excellent  remedy  for  diarrhoea  and 
other  diseases  of  the  bowels.  • 

Good  Toast. — Toast  slices  of  bread,  scrape  off  any  blackened,  charred 
portion ; lay  on  a soup  plate,  pour  on  cold  milk  enough  to  wet  through,  and 
leave  half  an  inch  or  so  in  depth  of  milk  in  the  plate.  Good  milk,  with  a 
little  extra  cream  in  it,  is  all  the  better,  and  a very  trifle  of  salt  improves  it. 
Put  over  the  toast  thus  prepared,  an  inverted  large  earthen  bowl,  or  tin  basin, 
large  enough  to  cover  it  and  set  down  upon  the  plate  all  round.  Put  this  in 
a warm,  not  very  hot,  stove  oven,  two,  three,  or  more  hours  in  advance. 
The  milk  will  cook  and  evaporate  and  its  substance  be  condensed  in  the 
toast  while  the  cover  will  keep  the  toast  moist.  It  is  then  very  good  without 
butter,  though  a little  may  be  used  if  desired. 

Beef  Broth. — Cut  in  small  pieces  one  pound  of  good  lean  beef,  put  on  in 
tw^o  quarts  of  cold  water  and  boil  slowly,  keeping  it  well  covered,  one  and 
one-half  hours ; then  add  half  a teacup  tapioca,  which  has  been  soaked 
three-quarters  of  an  hour  in  water  enough  to  cover,  and  boil  half  an  hour 
longer.  Some  add,  with  the  tapioca,  a small  bit  of  parsley,  and  a slice  or 
two  of  onion.  Strain  before  serving,  seasoning  slightly  with  pepper  and 
salt.  It  is  more  strengthing  to  add,  just  before  serving,  a soft  poached  egg. 
Rice  may  be  used  instead  of  tapioca,  straining  the  broth,  and  adding  one  or 
two  tablespoons  rice  (soaked  for  a short  time),  and  then  boiling  half  an 
hour. 

Meat  for  Invalids. — The  followflng  method  of  rendering  raw  meat  pal- 
atable to  invalids  is  given  by  good  authority.  To  8.7  ounces  of  raw  meat, 
from  the  loin,  add  2.6  ounces  shelled  sweet  almonds,  .17  ounces  shelled  bitter 
almonds,  and  2.8  ounces  white  sugar — these  to  be  beaten  together  in  a 
marble  mortar  to  a uniform  pulp,  and  the  fibres  separated  by  a strainer. 
The  pulp,  which  has  a rosy  hue,  and  a very  agreeable  taste,  does  not  remind 
one  of  meat,  and  may  be  kept  fresh  for  a considerable  time,  even  in  summer, 
in  a dry,  cool  place.  Yolk  of  egg  may  be  added  to  it.  From  this  pulp,  or 
directly  from  the  above  substance,  an  emulsion  may  be  prepared  which  will 
be  rendered  much  more  nutritious  by  adding  milk. 

Articles  for  the  Sick-Room. — A rubber  bag,  holding  two  quarts,  to  be  one- 
half  or  three-quarters  filled  with  hot  water,  and  placed  about  the  patient 
where  needed — under  head  in  neuralgia,  around  the  side  in  liver  congestion, 
etc. ; or  can  be  filled  with  very  cold  water  in  cases  needins  such  applications 


HINTS  FOB  THE  SICK-ROOM. 


1141 


— is  very  flexible  and  agreeable,  and  can  be  used  where  a soap-stone  or  bot- 
tle would  hurt. 

A pair  of  very  long,  loose  stockings,  knit  of  Saxony  wool,  or  any  soft 
yarn,  without  heels,  to  draw  on  towards  morning  in  fever  cases,  or  to  keep 
patient  warm  when  she  is  up ; they  might  come  half  way  between  the  knee 
and  thigh.  Every  housekeeper  should  have  a pair  to  be  used  in  cases  of 
sickness. 

Oatmeal  Crackers. — Wet  one  pint  of  fine  oatmeal  with  one  gill  water* 
work  it  a few  minutes  with  a spoon,  until  you  can  make  it  up  into  a mass  ; 
place  on  a board  well  covered  with  dry  oatmeal ; make  as  compact  as  you 
can,  and  roll  out  carefully  to  one-sixth  of  an  inch  thick,  and  cut  into  squares 
with  a knife.  Bake  in  a very  slow  oven,  or  merely  scald  at  first ; and  then 
let  them  stand  in  the  oven  until  they  dry  out.  These  are  difficult  to  make 
up  at  first,  but  you  soon  learn  to  handle  the  dough  and  to  watch  oven  so  that 
they  will  not  scorch.  These  are  excellent  for  all  the  purposes  of  crackers 
and  if  kept  dry,  or  if  packed  in  oatmeal,  they  will  last  good  for  months.  This 
is  one  form  of  the  Scotch  “bannock.”  A rich  addition  is  two  heaping  spoons 
of  ground  dessicated  cocoanut. 

Old-time  Food  for  Convalescents. — Roast  good  potatoes  in  hot  ashes  and 
coals  ; when  done,  put  in  a coarse  cloth  and  squeeze  with  the  hand,  and  take 
out  the  inside  on  a plate.  Put  a slice  of  good  pickled  pork  on  a stick  three 
or  four  feet  long,  hold  before  a wood  fire  until  it  cooks  slightly,  then  dip  into 
a pan  of  water  and  let  it  drip  on  the  potato  to  season  it ; repeat  until  the 
meat  is  nicely  cooked  on  one  side,  then  turn  the  other,  dip  in  water  etc. 
When  done  place  on  plate  beside  the  potato,  serve  with  a slice  of  'toast 
dressed  with  hot  water  and  a little  vinegar  and  salt,  or  use  sweet  cream  in- 
stead of  vinegar.  A cup  of  sage  tea,  made  by  pouring  boiling  water  on  a 
few  leaves  of  sage  and  allow  it  to  stand  a few  minutes,  served  with  cream 
and  sugar,  is  very  nice ; or  crust  coffee,  or  any  herb  tea  is  good.  Food  pre- 
pared in  this  way  obviates  the  use  of  butter. 

Beef  Tea.— Cut  pound  best  lean  steak  in  small  pieces,  place  in  glass  fruit 
^jar  {b.  perfect  one),  cover  tightly  and  set  in  a pot  of  cold  water;  heat  gradu- 
ally to  boil,  and  continue  this  steadily  three  or  four  hours,  until  the  meat  is 
like  white  rags  and  the  juice  thoroughly  extracted  ; season  with  very  little 
salt,  and  strain  through  a wire  strainer.  Serve  either  warm  or  cold.  To 
prevent  jar  toppling  over,  tie  a string  around  the  top  part,  and  hang  over  a 
stick  laid  across  the  top  of  pot.  When  done,  set  kettle  off  stove  and  let  cool 
before  removing  the  jar,  and  in  this  way  prevent  breakage.  . Or,  when  beef- 
tea  is  wanted  for  immediate  use,  place  in  a common  pint  bowl  (yellow  ware) 
add  very  little  water,  cover  with  saucer,  and  place  in  a moderate  oven  ; if  in 
danger  of  burning  add  a little  more  water.  To  make  beef-tea  more  palatable 
for  some  patients,  freeze  it. 

Cornmeal  Gruel. — Add  three  pints  boiling  water,  two  tablospoons  corn- 
meal  , stirred  up  with  a little  cold  water ; add  a pinch  of  salt  and  cook  twentv 
minutes.  For  very  sick  persons,  let  it  settle,  pour  off  the  top,  and  give  with- 
out other  seasoning.  For  convalescents,  toast  a piece  of  bread  nicely,  and 
put  in  the  gruel  with  one  or  two  tablespoons  sweet  cream,  a little  sugar  and 
ginger,  or  nutmeg  and  cinnamon.  When  a laxative  diet  is  allowed  this  is 
very  nourishing.  Or,  take  a pint  of  meal,  pour  over  it  a quart  or  more  of  cold 
water,  stir  up,  let  settle  a moment,  and  pour  off  the  water ; repeat  this  three 
times,  then  put  the  washed  meal  into  three  quarts  of  cold  water,  and  place 
where  it  will  boil ; cook  three  hours,  and  when  done  add  a pinch  of  salt. 
This  is  a very  delicate  way  of  cooking,  and  it  may  be  eaten  with  or  without 
other  seasoning. 


1142 


HINTS  FOR  THE  SICK-ROOM. 


Boiled  Flour  or  Flour  Ball. — Take  one  quart  good  flour ; tie  in  a pud- 
ding bag  so  tightly  as  to  make  a solid  mass  ; put  into  a pot  of  boiling  water 
early  in  the  morning,  and  let  boil  until  bedtime  ; take  out  and  let  dry.  In 
the  morning,  peel  off  and  throw  away  the  thin  rind  of  dough,  and.  wuth  a 
nutmeg-grater,  grate  down  the  hard  dry  mass  into  a powder.  Of  this  from 
one  to  three  teaspoons  may  be  used,  by  first  rubbing  it  into  a paste  with  a 
little  milk,  then  adding  it  to  about  a pint  of  milk,  and,  finally,  by  bringing 
the  whole  to  just  the  boiling-point.  Give  through  a nursing-bottle.  For 
children  who  are  costive  use  bran ’meal  or  unbolted  flour  instead  of  white 
flour,  preparing  as  above  directed. 

Rice  Water. — Wash  four  tablespoons  of  rice;  put  it  into  two  quarts  of 
water,  which  boil  down  to  one  quart,  and  then  add  sugar  and  a little  nut- 
meg. This  makes  a pleasant  drink.  A pint  or  half  a pint  of  milk  added  to 
the  rice  water,  before  it  is  taken  from  the  fire,  gives  a nourishing  food  suit- 
able for  cases  of  diarrhea.  Sago,  tapioca,  barley,  or  cracked  corn  can  be 
prepared  in  the  same  manner. 

Beef  Tea. — Take  a pound  of  juicy  lean  beef  and  mince  it.  Put  it  with  its 
juice  into  an  earthen  vessel  containing  a pint  of  tepid  water,  and  let  the 
whole  stand  for  one  hour.  Slowly  heat  to  boiling  point,  and  let  it  boil  for 
three  minutes.  Strain  liquid  through  a colander,  and  stir  in  a little  salt. 
If  preferred,  a little  pepper  or  allspice  may  be  added. 

Mutton  Tea  may  be  prepared  in  the  same  way.  It  makes  an  agreeable 
change  when  the  patient  has  become  tired  of  beef  tea. 

Raw  Beef  for  Children. — Take  half  a pound  of  juicy  beef,  free  from  any 
fat ; mince  it  very  finely  ; then  rub  it  into  a smooth  pulp  either  in  a mortar 
or  with  an  ordinary  potato-masher,  and  press  it  through  a fine  sieve.  Spread 
a little  out  upon  a plate  and  sprinkle  over  it  some  salt,  or  some  sugar  if  the 
child  prefers  it.  Give  it  alone  or  spread  upon  a buttered  slice  of  stale  bread. 
It  makes  an  excellent  food  for  children  with  dysentery. 

Articles  Easy  of  Digestion. — The  following  articles  are  readily  digested 
by  a healthy  stomach,  and  can  be  digested  with  comparative  ease  by  most 
dyspeptics : 

ANIMAL  FOODS. 

Raw  white  of  egg,  beaten  to  a froth ; beef  tea,  free  from  fat ; raw  whole 
egg,  beaten  ; milk  fresh  and  warm ; fresh  eggs,  soft  boiled  ; mutton,  broiled ; 
venison  steak,  broiled ; chicken,  especially  the  white  parts ; rabbit ; fresh 
trout,  and  most  fresh  fish  which  are  not  oily. 

VEGETABLE  FOODS. 

Stale  bread ; graham  rolls,  without  yeast  or  soda ; rice,  well  boiled  or 
steamed  ; tapioca ; corn-starch  ; oatmeal  porridge,  eaten  with  dry  toast,  Gra- 
ham mush  or  crushed  wheat ; cauliflower ; asparagus,  if  very  tender ; French 
beans ; baked  sweet  or  subacid  apples ; strawberries  and  whortleberries ; 
grapes  without  skins  or  seeds  ; oranges  or  bananas. 

Articles  not  Easy  of  Digestion . — The  following  list  includes  the  common 
articles  of  food  which  require  a considerable  degree  of  vigor  on  the  part  of  the 
digestive  organs,  and  must  be  avoided  by  all  bad  dyspeptics : 

ANIMAL  FOODS. 

Animal  soups  of  all  sorts ; beef ; lamb ; turkey,  duck,  pigeon ; codfish ; 
raw  oysters ; butter ; all  sorts  of  roast  meats. 


HINTS  FOR  THE  SICK-ROOM. 


1143 


VEGETABLE  FOODS. 

Potatoes ; turnips ; cabbage ; tomatoes;  peas;  beans;  raisins,  and  most 
dried  fruit ; apples ; peaches ; peaches ; plums ; cherries ; pineapples ; beets ; 
carrots ; spinach ; parsnips ; vegetable  soups ; corn-meal  preparations ; salads 
of  all  sorts ; currants ; gooseberries ; raspberries ; rhubarb ; jelly. 

Indigestible  Articles. — The  following  articles,  while  they  maybe  digested 
by  a vigorous  stomach,  impair  the  digestive  powers  and  induce  indigestion 
and  to  the  dyspeptic  are  more  of  the  character  of  poison  than  of  foods  : 

ANIMAL  FOODS. 

Pork;  veal;  goose;  liver;  kidney;  heart;  sausage;  hard-boiled  eggs; 
scrambled  eggs ; cheese ; hashed  and  stewed  meats ; melted  butter,  and  all 
animal  fats ; mackerel,  and  all  oily  fish ; dried  and  smoked  fish  ; sardines, 
and  other  fish  preserved  in  oil ; lobster ; crabs ; etc. ; cooked  oysters  and 
clams ; fried  meats  of  all  sorts. 

VEGETABLE  FOODS. 

Warm  bread,  especially  taken  with  butter;  mufiins;  buttered  toast ; pies, 
cakes,  and  all  sorts  of  pastry ; pancakes ; fried  bread  and  vegetables ; nuts  of 
all  kinds ; onions ; mushrooms ; pickles  ; tea ; coflfee ; cocoa ; chocolate ; mus- 
tard ; pepper ; spices  and  other  condiments ; sugar ; preserves,  and  all  sacch- 
arine foods. 


1144 


MEDICAL. 


MEDICAL. 


When  people  fall  sick  they  seem  to  lose  what  little  common  sense  they 
possessed  when  well.  Men  and  women  who  are  moderately  wdse  and  reason- 
able in  other  matters,  cherish  the  most  absurd  superstitions,  and  follow  the 
advice  of  the  most  transparent  quacks  when  it  comes  to  disease  and  medi- 
cine. A little  reflection  will  convince  many  reasonable  persons  that  no  single 
medicine  wdll  cure  all  diseases,  indeed  no  medicine  will  cure  the  same  dis- 
ease in  different  persons,  and  in  different  stages.  Any  candid  physician  will 
admit  that  the  use  of  medicines  by  the  most  skillful  and  experienced  prac- 
titioner, is,  to  a great  extent,  an  experiment.  What  is  “one  man’s  meat  is 
another  man’s  poison,”  and  even  the  best  physician  needs  to  know  the  con- 
stitution of  the  patient,  and  to  study  the  symptoms  of  disease  before  he  can 
prescribe  saiely,  to  say  nothing  of  curing  the  disease.  And  yet  there  are  in- 
telligent men  and  women  who  buy  patent  nostrums,  and  pour  them  down 
their  throats,  knowing  nothing  of  the  disease,  or  of  the  probable  effect  of  the 
alleged  remedy.  For  instance,  a child  has  a cough  and  a “cough  remedy” 
is  purchased  and  dealt  out.  Now,  there  are  many  kinds  of  coughs.  The 
cough  may  be  “dry,”  or  it  may  be  “loose”  ; the  symptoms  may  differ  in  va- 
rious ways,  and  yet  the  “cough  remedy”  given  f6r  a “dry”  cough  maybe 
intended  for  a “loose”  one,  and  so  all  the  symptoms  may  be  aggravated, 
perhaps  with  a fatal  result.  The  physician’s  advice  and  experience  is  chief- 
ly valuable  to  teil  us  what  the  disease  is  and  the  best  possible  treatment  for 
it.  It  is  dangerous  in  the  extreme  to  administer  any  powerful  remedy,  or 
any  medicine  the  nature  and  effect  of  which  are  not  known ^ without  the  advice 
of  some  one  who  knows  the  disease  and  its  probable  efi’ect.  The  household 
chest  should  contain  only  simple  remedies,  the  effect  of  which,  at  worst,  can 
not  be  very  injurious  ; and  in  all  dangerous  or  violent  diseases  a physician 
should  be  promptly  called. 


For  Varicose  Veins. — Wear  a silk  elastic  stocking. 

For  Colds,  drink  pennyroyal  tea. 

Glycerine  is  excellent  to  rub  on  chafes,  burns,  chapped  hands  or  sun 
scalds. 

Blistered  Feet. — To  cure  blistered  feet  from  long  walking,  rub  the  feet,  at 
going  to  bed,  with  spirits  mixed  with  tallow. 


MEDICAL. 


1145 


Liniment. — Three  ounces  each  of  tincture  of  opium,  camphorated  oil,  and 
soap  liniment. 

For  Jaundice — The  volk  of  an  egg,  raw  or  slightly  cooked,  is  excellent 
food  in  jaundice. 

Chapped  Hands  and  Lips. — Four  parts  glycerine  to  one  part  simple  tinct- 
ure of  benzoin.  The  latter  is  very  healing. 

For  Quinsy,  gargle  with  water  as  hot  as  can  be  borne.  This  gives  great 
relief,  even  in  severe  cases. 

Liniment. — The  common  jday-weed  blossoms  put  in  alcohol  are  much 
superior  to  arnica  for  the  same  use. 

For  Soreness  and  Pains. — Bathe  with  liot  alcohol ; and  salt  is  often  added. 
The  use  of  alcohol  sponge-baths  after  confinement  is  almost  a necessity. 

To  Check  Vomiting. — Give  a teaspoon  of  whole  black  mustard  seed.  A 
tablespoon  may  be  given  in  severe  cases. 

For  Sick  Headache. — Whenever  the  symptoms  are  felt  coming  on,  drink 
a teacup  of  thoroughwort  or  boneset-tea. 

Trichinx. — Don’t  eat  raw  hog  meat  of  any  sort.  It  may  contain  trichinae 
and  if  it  does,  the  undertaker  may  as  well  be  sent  for. 

Lime  in  the  Eye. — Y/hen  lime,  soda,  potash,  or  ammonia,  gets  in  the  eye 
wash  out  with  water  containing  a little  vinegar. 

For  Stiff  Joints. — Oil  made  by  trying  up  common  angle  worms,  is  excel 
lent  to  apply  to  sinews  drawn  up  by  sprains  or  disease. 

Pleurisy. — Oiled  silk  placed  over  the  chest  of  those  suffering  from  pneii 
nionia  or  pleurisy,  will  give  great  relief  and  hasten  recovery. 

For  Rheumatism. — To  one  pint  alcohol,  add  one  tablespoon  pulverize^ 
potash,  and  a lump  of  gum-camphor  the  size  of  a walnut.  Use  as  a liniment , 

Children's  Beds. — No  two  children  should  sleep  in  the  Siime  bed.  They 
will  have  better  health  and  thrive  better  to  sleep  by  themsslves. 

Chronic  Diarrhoea  is  cured  by  drinking  orange-peel  tea ; sweeten  with 
loaf-sugar,  and  use  as  a common  drink  for  twenty-four  to  thirty-six  hours. 

For  Burns. — Lime-water,  olive-oil,  and  glycerine,  equal  parts;  applied 
on  lint,  or  grated  raw  potatoes  used  as  a poultice. 

A Simple  Remedy  for  Catarrh. — Place  alum  on  the  stove  and  let  it  melt 
and  burn  until  it  becomes  a dry  powder.  Then  use  it  as  snuff. 

To  Stop  Bleeding. — Apply  wet  tea-leaves,  or  scrapings  of  sole-leather  to 
a fresh  cut  and  it  will  stop  the  bleeding,  or  apply  a paste  of  flour  and  vinegar. 

Beef  Tea. — Boil  the  beef  for  a few  minutes,  and  squeeze  the  juice  from  it 
wdth  a lemon-squeezer,  salt  and  use  hot,  cold  or  frozen. 

To  Stop  Bleeding  at  the  Nose. — Bathe  the  feet  in  very  hot  water,  drink- 
ing at  the  same  time  a pint  of  ca3^enne  peper  tea,  or  hold  both  arms  above 
the  head. 

For  Dressing  Cuts,  Wounds  or  Sores. — Surgeon’s  solution  of  carbolic 
acid  and  pure  glycerine  mixed  in  equal  parts,  and  applied  on  soft  lint  or  linen 
cloth. 

To  Harden  Nipples. — Bathe  with  a preparation  of  one-half  ounce  liquid 
tannin  and  two  ounces  glycerine,  for  three  or  four  months  before  confinement 
once  or  twice  a day. 


1146 


MEDICAL. 


For  Sore  Nipples. — Bathe  in  Pond’s  Extract.  The  nipple  need  not  be 
washed  otf  before  nursing.  Or  to  the  well-beaten  white  of  an  egg  add  a few 
drops  of  tannin,  mixed  thoroughly,  and  bathe.  Make  fresh  every  day  or  two. 

Change  of  Climate. — A change  of  climate  is  nearly  always  beneficial  to 
health  for  a time,  and  sometimes  effects  a complete  cure  in  disease.  It  is 
still  more  likely  to  do  good  if  a change  of  habits  and  diet  goes  with  it. 

Dirt  in  the  Eye. — To  remove  speeks  of  dirt  from  the  eye,  immerse  the 
eye  in  cold  water,  then  wink  and  roll  the  eyeball  until  the  desired  result  is 
accomplished. 

Stammering. — If’  not  caused  by  malformation  of  organs,  reading  aloud, 
with  the  teeth  closed,  for  at  least  two  hours  a day  for  three  or  four  months 
will  cure  stammering. 

Hoarseness. — It  is  said  hoarseness  may  be  relieved  by  using  the  white  of 
an  egg,  thoroughly  beaten,  mixed  with  lemon-juice  and  sugar.  Take  a tea- 
spoonful occasionally. 

Remedy  for  Piles. — Mix  a tea-spoon  of  sulphur  with  a tea-cup  of  milk,  and 
take  twice  a day,  morning  and  night,  until  improvement  takes  place ; then 
take  occasionally 

Frosted  Feet. — To  relieve  the  intense  itching  of  frosted  feet,  dissolve  a 
lump  of  alum  in  a little  water  and  bathe  the  feet  with  it,  warming  it  before 
the  fire.  One  or  two  applications  are  sure  to  give  relief. 

Wound  from  Rusted  Nail. — Smoke  this  or  any  inflamed  wound  over  the 
fume  of  burning  woolen  cloth,  wool  or  sugar,  for  fifteen  minutes,  and  the  pain 
will  be  taken  out. 

For  Toothache  or  Neuralgia. — Thicken  the  yolk  of  an  egg  with  common 
salt  and  apply  as  a poultice;  or  slice  raw  onions,  and  scatter  shaved  hard 
soap  over  them  and  apply. 

For  Sprains. — The  white  of  an  egg,  and  salt  mixed  to  a thick  paste  is  one 
of  the  best  remedies  for  sprains,  or  bruises,  or  lameness,  for  man  or  beast. 
Rub  well  the  part  afifected. 

For  Weak  Eyes. — Bathe  in  hot  water,  never  using  cold;  and  neither  chil- 
dren nor  adults  should  use  water  below  temperature  in  washing,  as  cold 
water  is  very  injurious  to  the  eyes. 

To  Prevent  Sea-Sickness. — Make  a pad  of  wool  or  horse  hair,  and  bind  over 
the  stomach.  Brandy  and  water,  very  weak,  is  the  best  remedy  to  allay  the 
heat  and  irritation. 

A Valuable  Liniment. — One  ounce  wormwood  to  one  pint  alcohol.  Or, 
bruise  the  green  stalks  of  wormwood,  moisten  with  vinegar,  and  apply  to  the 
sprain.  Good  for  man  or  beast. 

Cutting  the  Hair. — Many  children  and  men  take  cold  after  having  the  hair 
cut . This  may  be  prevented  by  a quick  dash  of  cold  water  on  the  head  im- 
mediately after  cutting,  and  before  going  out,  and  a brisk  rubbing  afterward. 

To  Relieve  Asthma. — Wet  blotting  paper  in  strong  solution  of  saltpetre, 
dry  it,  and  burn  a piece  three  inches  square  on  a plate  in  sleeping  room,  and 
it  will  afford  a quick  relief. 

Manna  and  Milk. — Take  a quart  of  fresh  skim  milk,  and  boil  in  it  one 
ounce  of  manna ; drinking  this  quantity  cool,  in  small  draughts,  at  intervals 
during  the  day,  is  good  for  consumption. 


MEDICAL. 


1147 


Si^k  Headache . — Elixir  of  guarana,  prepared  by  Brewer  & Co.,  Spring' 
field,  Mass.  Take  one  te>aspoon  every  half  hour  until  four  have  been  taken, 
on  the  first  intimation  that  the  headache  is  coming  on. 

Hot  Water  for  a Cough. — For  a tight,  hoarse  cough,  where  phlegm  is  not 
rising,  or  with  difficulty,  take  hot  water  often,  as  hot  as  can  be  sipped.  This 
will  be  found  to  give  immediate  and  permanent  relief. 

Sprains  or  Lameness. — Two  ounces  camphorated  spirits,  two  ounces  sweet 
oil,  two  ounces  ammonia,  two  ounces  chloform  ; shake  well  before  using,  and 
rub  it  on  by  a fire.  It  is  very  excellent  for  a family  liniment. 

Cherokee  Liniment. — One  ounce  gum-camphor,  dissolved  in  alcohol,  one 
ounce  each  of  spirits  turpentine,  sweet  oil,  hemlock  oil,  origanum  oil,  and 
cedar  oil,  two  ounces  spirits  hartshorn.  Use  externally.  Shake  well  before 
using. 

To  Prevent  Skin  from  Discoloring  after  a Bruise. — Apply  immediately,  or 
as  soon  as  possible,  a little  dry  starch  or  arrow-root,  moistened  with  cold 
water,  or  rub  with  common  table  butter,  or  press  firmly  with  blade  of  knife. 

Salve  for  Cuts  and  Burns. — To  one-half  pound  sweet  lard  add  one-fourth 
pound  of  beeswax  and  the  same  of  resin ; beat  all  together  till  well  mixed 
pour  in  a little  tin  box.  Apply  a little  to  the  wound  on  a soft  cotton  cloth. 

Wens. — Dissolve  copperas  in  water  to  make  it  very  strong;  now  taken 
pin,  needle,  or  sharp  knife,  and  prick  or  cut  the  wen  in  about  a dozen  places , 
just  sufficient  to  cause  it  to  bleed;  then  wet  it  well  with  the  copperrs  water, 
once  daily. 

For  Ivy  Poisoning. — A simple  and  effectual  remedy  for  ivy  poisoning,  ig^ 
said  to  be  sweet  spirits  of  nitre.  Bathe  the  affected  parts  two  or  three  times) 
during  the  day,  and  the  next  morning  scarcely  any  trace  of  the  poison  wifi 
remain. 

Cholera  Mixture. — Take  one  ounce  of  the  following  ingredients  : tincture 
opium,  capsicum  or  red  pepper,  rhubarb,  pepermint  and  camphor  put  in 
large  bottle,  with  a pint  best  brandy.  Dose  is  ten  to  twenty  drops  in  two  or 
three  teaspoons  water.  Good  in  any  case  of  diarrhea. 

For  the  Lungs. — A quart  (or  less  if  too  strong)  of  tar,  stirred  six  minutes 
in  a gallon  of  water,  and  one-fourth,  ora  tumbler,  taken  four  times  a day,  an 
hour  or  two  after  meals,  is  said  to  clear  the  lungs,  and  give  greater  ease  in 
public  speaking. 

Sleeplessness. — Wet  a cloth  in  cold  water,  and  lay  it  on  the  back  of  the 
neck.  Fold  a towel  smoothly  over  it,  and  very  often  it  will  sooth  the  weary 
brain,  and  quiet  the  nerves  better  than  an  opiate.  It  is  particularly  useful 
in  case  of  a dull  headache. 

Broken  Breasts. — One  tablespoon  unmelted  lard,  six  small  onions  or  two 
large  ones  sliced  thin  and  fried  in  lard,  until  of  a light  brown,  and  thorough- 
ly done ; then  add  half  pint  boiling  water  and  thicken  with  corn  meal  to  the 
consistency  of  mush.  Spread  on  a cloth  and  apply  as  warm  as  can  be  borne. 

Diet  in  Disease  and  Health. — Of  the  grains  for  mushes,  rye  is  most  flesh 
making,  oatmeah  second,  and  Graham  third.  For  laxativeness — rye  first, 
Graham  second,  oatmeal  third.  Graham  builds  up  nerves,  bones,  and  sin- 
ews ; dark  gluten  the  same  ; light  gluten  is  more  fattening  than  the  dark. 

Changing  Clothing. — People  often  take  cold  by  removing  heavy  under- 
clothing too  early  in  the  spring.  This  should  never  be  done  until  weather  is 
settled.  When  about  to  make  the  change,  take  a cold  hand-bath  or  sponge- 
bath  and  rub  briskly,  in  the  morning,  and  there  is  no  danger  of  taking  cold. 


1148 


MEDICAL. 


For  Catarrh. — Putting  a cloth  wet  in  hot  water  over  the  nose  and  fore- 
head just  before  going  to  bed,  and  secured  in  place  with  a handkerchief  over 
which  a flannel  is  placed.  Do  this  three  nights,  then  skip  three,  etc. 

To  Prevent  Wearing  Through  the  Skin  when  Bed-Ridden. — Apply  to  tender 
parts  of  the  body  with  a feather,  a mixture  made  by  beating  to  a strong  froth, 
the  white  of  an  egg,  dropping  in  whil6  beating  two  teaspoons  spirits  of  wine. 
Bottle  for  use. 

Bee  Stings. — Any  absorbant  will  give  relief  from  bee  stings,  but  perhaps 
nothing  is  more  effectual  than  lean  raw  meat.  The  sting  of  a bee  or  wasp 
may  be  almost  instantly  relieved  by  it.  It  is  said  to  cure  the  bite  of  a rattle- 
snake, and  relieve  erysipelas. 

For  a Cold. — Cayenne  pepper-tea  for  a cold.  Put  a quarter  of  a teaspoon 
of  cayenne  pepper  in  a tea-cup  ; pour  over  hot  water  and  sweeten  with  sugar. 
Or,  steep  horseradish  in  a gill  of  vinegar,  add  a gill  of  honey,  and  take  a tea- 
spoon every  twenty  minutes. 

Camphorated  Ointment. — Good  for  burns,  chapped  hands,  sore  lips,  salt- 
rheum,  etc.  One  ounce  each  gum  camphor,  beeswax  and  fresh  butter,  stew 
and  strain  butter,  then  put  all  together,  and  simmer  till  the  camphor  is  dis- 
solved, keeping  covered  while  simmering. 

Paste  for  Scrap-books. — Corn-starch  makes  the  best  paste  for  scrap-books. 
Dissolve  a small  quantity  in  cold  water,  then  cook  it  thoroughly.  Be  careful 
not  to  get  it  too  thick.  When  cold  it  should  be  thin  enough  to  apply  with  a 
brush.  It  will  not  mould  or  stain  the  paper. 

Blackened  eye. — Should  the  eye  or  any  other  part  be  blackened  by  a fall 
or  blow,  apply  a cloth  wrung  out  of  very  warm  water,  and  renew  it  until  the 
pain  ceases.  The  moisture  and  heat  liquify  the  blood,  and  send  it  back  to  its 
proper  channel.  Never  use  cold  water  to  a bruise. 

Constipation. — Two  ounces  of  senna,  simmer  the  strength  out  in  one  quart 
of  water,  strain  the  tea ; one  pound  of  prunes,  cooked  soft,  with  half  tea-cup 
of  white  sugar.  Several  times  a day  take,  first  one  tablespoon  of  the  senna 
tea,  then  eat  one  prune,  fasting  as  much  as  possible. 

For  Erysipelas. — A simple  poultice  made  from  cranberries  pounded  fine, 
and  applied  in  a raw  state,  is  said  to  be  a certain  cure ; or  slip  off  the  outer 
bark  of  elder,  break  up  the  wood  with  the  inner  bark,  and  steep  in  butter- 
milk ; drink  and  apply  to  the  parts  affected. 

For  Sore  Throat. — Take  five  cents  worth  of  chlorate  of  potash,  dissolve, 
and  take  a teaspoon  every  hour,  and  also  gargle  with  it.  Or  to  a tea-cup  vin- 
egar add  salt  and  cayenne  pepper,  making  it  as  strong  as  can  be  taken  (some 
add  a little  pulverized  alum)  and  gargle  often  with  it. 

For  Chronic  Gathering  in  the  head  and  discharge  from  the  ear,  take  shot 
about  the  size  of  smad  pease,  flatten  them,  make  a hole  through  the  center, 
string  them  on  a stout  string,  and  wear  as  beads.  Give  this  a trial  before 
pronouncing  it  to  be  a whim. 

Burns. — Common  baking  soda — the  bicarbonate — has  been  found  to  cure 
burns  or  scalds,  affording  immediate  relief  when  it  is  properly  applied.  For 
a dry  burn,  the  soda  should  be  made  into  paste  with  water.  For  a scald  or 
wet  burned  surface,  the  powdered  soda  (or  borax  will  do  as  well)  should  be 
dusted  on  ; or  apply  raw  linseed  oil. 

To  Relieve  Toothache. — Apply  powdered  alum,  or  fill  mouth  with  warm 
water,  and  immediately  after  with  cold  ; or  saturate  a piece  of  cotton  with  a 
stong  solution  of  ammonia,  and  apply  to  the  tooth.  For  toothache  and  in- 
flamed face  caused  by  it,  apply  a poultice  of  pounded  slippery-elm.  bark  and 
cold  water. 


MEDICAL. 


1149 


To  Drop  Medicine. — Shake  the  bottle  so  as  to  moisten  the  cork.  With 

the  wet  end  of  the  cork  moist- 
en the  edges  ot  the  mouth  of 
the  bottle,  then  holding  the 
cork  under  the  mouth,  let  the 
fluid  pass  over  the  cork  in 
dropping ; or  place  the  han- 
dle of  the  s])oen  between  the  leaves  of  a closed  book  lying  on  the  table,  and 
then  both  hands  may  be  used  in  dropping  the  mixture ; or  bend  the  handle 
of  a tea  or  tablespoon  as  in  cut,  so  that  it  will  stand  alone. 

A Good  Cure  for  Colds  is  to  boil  two  ounces  of  flaxseed  in  one  quart  of 
water ; strain  and  add  two  ounces  of  rock  candy,  one-half  pint  of  honey,  juice 
of  three  lemons  ; mix,  and  let  all  boil  well ; let  cool,  and  bottle.  Dose — One 
cupful  before  bed,  one-half  cupful  before  meals.  The  hotter  you  drink  it  the 
better. 

Tape  Worms  are  said  to  be  removed  by  refraining  from  supper  and  break- 
fast, and  at  eight  o’clock  taking  one-third  part  of  two  hundred  minced  pump- 
kin seeds,  the  shells  of  which  have  been  removed  by  hot  water ; at  nine  take 
another  third,  at  ten  the  remainder,  and  follow  it  at  eleven  with  strong  dose 
of  castor  oil. 

For  Cold  in  tne  Head. — As  soon  as  you  feel  that  you  have  a cold  in  the 
head,  put  a teaspoon  of  sugar  in  a goblet,  and  on  it  put  six  drops  of  camphor, 
stir  it,  and  fill  the  glass  half  full  of  water;  stir,  till  the  sugar  is  dissolved, 
then  take  a dessert  spoonful  every  twenty  minutes.  This  is  sure  cure  if  taken 
as  directed. 

To  Prevent  Taking  Cold. — If  out  in  cold  weather  with  insufficient  clothing 
or  wrappings,  fold  a newspaper  and  spread  across  the  chest.  Persons  having 
W’eak  lungs  can  in  this  way  make  for  themselves  a very  cheap  and  perfect 
lung  protector.  Large  papers  spread  between  quilts  kt  night  add  much  to 
the  warmth. 

Salve. — The  following  is  an  excellent  salve  for  burns,  cuts,  or  sores  o^ 
long  standing  : Take  equal  parts  of  melted  beeswax,  mutton  suet,  pulverized 
resin,  burnt  alum,  honey,  Venice  of  turpentine,  sweet  oil.  Cook  over  a slow 
fire  all  together.  Stir  till  it  commences  to  thicken ; then  strain  through  a 
cloth  and  pour  in  earthen  boxes. 

Catavrh  Cold.— Ten  drops  carbolic  acid,  and  seven  and  a half  each  of  iodine 
and  chloroform;  heat  a few  drops  over  a spirit  lamp  in  a test  tube,  holding 
the  mouth  of  the  tube  to  the  nostrils  as  soon  as  volatization  is  effected.  Ee- 
peat  every  two  minutes,  until  the  patient  sneezes  a number  of  times,  when 
the  troublesome  symptoms  will  disappear. 

Neuralgia. — One-half  drachm  sal-ammonia  in  one  ounce  of  camphor- 
water.  Take  a teaspoon  several  times,  five  minutes  apart,  until  relieved. 
Another  simple  remedy  is  horseradish.  Grate  and  mix  it  in  vinegar,  the 
same  as  for  table  purposes,  and  apply  to  the  temple  when  the  face  or  head  ia 
affected,  or  the  wrist,  wEen  the  pain  is  in  the  arm  or  shoulder. 

Whooping  Cough. — Mix  one  lemon  sliced,  half-pint  flax-seed,  two  ounces 
honey,  and  one  quart  water,  and  simmer,  not  boil,  four  hours ; strain  when 
cool,  and  if  there  is  less  than  a pint  of  the  mixture,  add  water.  Dose  : one 
table-spoon  four  times  a day,  and  one  also,  after  each  severe  fit  of  coughing. 
Warranted  to  cure  in  four  days  if  given  when  the  child  first  ‘‘whoops.” 

Worms. — A mother  gives  the  following : “Once  a week  invariably — and 
generally  when  w'e  had  cold  meat  minced — I gave  the  children  a dinner  which 


1150 


MEDICAL. 


is  hailed  with  delight,  and  looked  forward  to ; this  is  a dish  of  boiled  onions. 
The  little  ones  knew  that  they  were  taking  the  best  of  medicine  for  expelling 
what  most  children  suffer  from— worms.  Mine  we  kept  free  by  this  remedy 
alone.” 

For  Sore  Throat  use  as  a remedy  one  ounce  of  camphorated  oil  and  five 
cents  worth  of  chlorate  of  potash.  Whenever  any  soreness  appears  in  the 
throat,  put  the  potash  in  half  a tumbler  of  water,  and  with  it  gargle  the  throat 
thoroughly,  then  rub  the  throat  thoroughly  with  the  camphorated  oil  at  night 
before  going  to  bed,  and  also  pin  around  the  throat  a small  strip  of  woolen 
flannel. 

Eye  TFasTi. — Sulphate  of  zinc  two  grains,  sulphate  of  morphine  one-half 
grain,  distilled  water  one  ounce  ; mix,  and  bottle.  Drop  in  the  eye  (a  drop 
or  two  at  once,)  then  wink  the  eye  several  times,  so  that  the  wash  may  reach 
all  the  parts  ; and  keep  quiet  and  do  not  use  the  eyes  for  about  an  hour.  This 
wash  is  for  blood-shot  eyes,  and  when  used  it  will  produce  quite  a smarting 
sensation 

Alger  Liniment. — Alcohol,  one  gallon  ; cagiput  oil,  one  ounce  ; monard  oil, 
one  ounce  ; thymes  oil,  one  ounce  ; peppermint  oil,  half  ounce  ; camphor  gum , 
one  ounce.  Shake  well  and  let  stand  twenty-four  hours.  It  is  good  for  rheu  '• 
matism  and  for  any  purpose  for  which  liniment  is  used  for  man  or  beast 
This  is  a very  valuable  recipe  and  has  been  sold  at  a very  high  price. 

Sure  Cure  for  Corns. — Take  one-fourth  cup  of  strong  vinegar,  crumb  finel ; 
into  it  some  bread.  Let  stand  half  an  hour,  or  until  it  softens  into  a gooi  ( 
poultice.  Then  apply  on  retiring  at  night.  In  the  morning  the  soreness  wil  I 
be  gone,  and  the  corn  can  be  picked  out.  If  the  corn  is  a very  obstinate  on<> 
it  may  re(iuire  two  or  more  applications  to  effect  a cure. 

Raw  Linseed  Oil  is  one  of  the  best  applications  for  burns,  wounds,  and 
cuts.  It  excludes  the  air  and  heals  rapidly.  Dip  a cloth  in  it,  and  apply  . 
covering  with  a second  cloth.  For  flux  or  diarrhea  in  children,  give  a tea- 
spoonful three  times  a day  until  the  disease  has  abated.  Be  careful  not 
use  boiled  linseed  oil  as  a remedy  in  cases  of  men  or  animals.  When  boiled 
it  is  only  used  for  painting. 

Conklin's  Salve. — One  pound  of  resin,  two-  ounces  mutton  tallowq  one  of 
beeswax,  one-half  gill  alcoholic  spirits,  add  a little  of  the  gum  of  balsam ; 
boil  ail  together  slowly,  until  it  has  done  rising  or  foaming,  or  until  it  begins 
to  appear  clear.  Pour  the  mixture  into  a pail  of  cold  water,  and  when  it 
gathers,  take  it  out,  roll  on  boards  and  cut  it  off.  Care  must  be  taken  not  to 
burn  it.  Moisten  the  hands  in  brandy  while  working. 

To  Promote  or  Restore  -Put  a small  tea-cup  of  logwood  chips 

into  a pint  of  soft  water,  simmer  for  fifteen  minutes,  then  add  one  half  pint 
of  whiskey.  Dose,  one  tablespoon  half  an  hour  before  each  meal,  and  just 
before  going  to  bed.  Another  excellent  prescription  for  the  same  purpose  is 
made  as  follows  : Two  drams  of  prepared  citrate  of  iron  and  quinine,  one  pint 
cherry  wine,  one-half  ounce  chamomile  flowers. 

Itch  Ointment.— Two  tablespoons  lard,  one  of  black  pepper,  one  of  ground 
mustard  ; boil  all  together,  and  when  taken  off  and  nearly  cold  add  one  table- 
spoon sulphur.  Anoint  with  this  three  evenings  successively  just  before  go- 
ing to  bed.  Do  not  change  bed-clothes  or  wearing  clothes  during  the  time. 
After  this,  wash  with  castile  soap  suds,  and  change  all  the  clothing  that  has 
been  worn  or  touched. 

Poison  by  Ivy.— An  infallible  remedy  for  poisoning  by  ivy,  poison  oak, 
and  other  poison  vines  and  plants,  is  good  rich  butter  milk  in  which  you  have 


MEDICAL. 


1151 


beaten  some  green  tansy  leaves  until  the  milk  is  thoroughly  tinctured.  Bathe 
the  parts  often  (indeed,  you  could  not  do  it  too  often,)  until  relieved.  Wet 
a cloth  with  the  mixture'at  night,  and  lay  on,  wetting  as  often  as  it  feels  dry. 
Or  take  bromo-chloralum,  oz.  iv  ; vinum  opii  oz.  ij ; aquse  oz.  vj.  Bathe  the 
parts  freely  with  this  and  it  will  relieve  the  itching  at  once.  It  is  good  in 
urticaria. 

Magic  Liniment. — For  sprains  ana  inflamadon  this  is  very  good  for  ani- 
mals, and  without  turpentine,  very  good  for  man:  Two  ounces  oil  of  spike, 
two  ounces  oil  of  origanum,  two  ounces  oil  of  hemlock,  two  ounces  of  worm- 
wood, two  ounces  of  spirit  of  ammonia,  two  ounces  of  gum  camphor,  two  of 
spirits  of  turpentine  and  four  ounces  of  sweet  oil  and  one  quart  of  best  alco- 
hol. INIix  well  and  bottle  tightlv.  A little  well  rubbed  in  is  a fine  stimula- 
ting linament. 

French  Remedy  for  Chronic  Rheumatism. — Dr.  Bonnet,  of  Craulbet,  France, 
Slates  in  a letter  to  the  “Abeille  Medicale,”  that  he  has  been  long  in  the 
habit  of  prescribing  ^‘the  essential  oil  of  turpentine  by  friction  for  rheuma- 
tism ; and  that  he  has  used  it  himself  with  perfect  success,  having  almost  in- 
stantaneously got  rid  of  rheumatic  pains  in  both  knees  and  in  the  lett  shoul- 
der.” 

Magnetic  Ointment  Equal  to  Trash’s. — Hard  raisins  cut  in  pieces,  and  fine- 
cut  tobacco,  equal  weights ; simmer  well  together,  then  strain,  and  press  out 
all  from  the  dregs.  This  is  excellent  for  external  aiDplications,  for  cold  in 
the  head,  appl5uug  to  the  temples,  outside  and  inside  of  nose,  and  forehead. 
Applied  inside  of  nose  it  clears  the  head  by  sneezing.  It  is  also  good  for 
croup  if  applied  first  to  the  throat  and  afterward  to  the  chest. 

Chapped  Hamds. — When  the  hands  show  signs  of  cracxing  wash  tnem 
clean  with  mild  soap  and  soft  warm  water.  Rinse  in  borax  water  and  thor- 
oughly drj’’  them.  Then  anoint  them  with  vaseline  or  petroleum  jelly,  which 
can  be  procured  at  any  drug  store.  Dry  it  by  the  fire  and  a cure  is  sure  to 
follow.  This  vaseline  never  fails.  AVith  it  ’"he  skin  can  be  kept  soft  and 
velvety  all  the  time. 

Mustard  Plasters. — Mix  with  boiling  water,  vinegar,  or  wnite  of  an  egg 
(the  latter  is  best  when  a blister  is  not  wanted)  to  consistency  the  same  as  if 
for  the  table.  Some  add  a little  flour  when  not  wanted  too  strong.  Spread 
on  half  a thin  muslin  cloth,  cover  with  the  other  half,  or  put  on  cloth,  and 
put  over  it  a thin  piece  of  gauze  ; apply,  and  when  removed,  wash  the  skin 
with  a soft  sponge,  and  apply  a little  sweet  cream  or  oil. 

Sprains. — If  a sprain  is  nothing  more  than  a sprain — that  is  if  no  Dones 
are  broken  or  put  out — wrap  the  parts  in  several  folds  of  flannel  which  has 
been  wrung  out  of  hot  water,  and  cover  it  with  a dry  bandage,  and  rest  it  for 
some  days,  or  even  weeks.  Entire  rest  at  first,  and  moderate  rest  afterward, 
are  absolutely  necessary  after  a sprain.  If  it  is  in  the  ankle,  the  foot  should 
be  raised  as  high  as  may  be  comfortable  ; if  in  the  wrist,  it  should  be  carried 
in  a sling.  Or,  place  in  hot  water  three  minutes  then  in  cold  three  minutes, 
and  so  alternate  four  or  five  times,  then  bind  up  in  a hot  compress.  If  the 
sprain  is  in  knee  or  where  it  cannot  be  immersed,  wrap  in  hot  cloths  for  tliree 
minutes  then  in  cold,  etc. 

For  Burns  or  Bruises. — Appiy  peach  tree  leaves,  smooth  side  next  to  the 
skin  and  bind  them  on  ; or  wet  cloth  and  sprinkle  it  with  carbonate  of  soda 
(common  cooking  soda)  and  bind  it  on  the  burn.  It  quickly  stops  the  pain, 
and  is  a harmless  and  thorough  remedy.  If  no  cloth  is  at  hand,  wet  the  part 
burned  and  sprinkle  dry  soda  on  it.  For  burns  where  there  is  danger  of  mor- 


1152 


MEDICAL. 


tification,  or  even  if  it  has  already  begun  bind  on  strips  of  cloth  dipped  in 
clean  tar. 

Cure  for  Locfc-Jaw,  said  to  he  positive. — Let  any  one  who  has  an  attack  of 
lock-jaw  take  a small  cpiantity  of  spirits  of  turpentine,  warm  it,  and  pour  it 
on  the  wound — no  matter  where  the  wound  is,  or  what  its  nature  is — and  re- 
lief is  said  to  follow  in  less  than.a  minute.  Turpentine  is  also  a sovereign 
remedy  for  croup.  Saturate  a piece  of  flannel  with  it,  and  place  the  flannel 
on  the  throat  and  chest — and  in  very  severe  cases  three  to  five  drops  on  a lump 
of  sugar  may  be  taken  internally. 

Soft  Water  and  Cholera. — A distinguished  physician  gives  it  as  his  opinion 
that  the  habitual  use  of  pure  soft  water,  or  from  wells  in  a locality  where  the 
rocks  are  freestone,  will  prevent  the  cholera.  He  says  that  cholera  has  al- 
ways prevailed  in  a limestone  region,  among  families  using  hard  water,  while 
those  using  soft  water  in  same  neighborhoods  escaped,  and  those  living  in 
freestone  regions  only  a few  miles  away  were  also  exempt  from  attacks.  Soft 
water  from  cisterns  should  be  filtered  before  using. 

Cough  Mixture. — Dissolve  one-fourtli  pound  gum-arabic  in  half  pint  boil- 
ing w^ater,  add  a half  tea-cup  sugar  and  honey,  and  two  table-spoons  lemon 
juice,  steep  for  five  or  ten  minutes ; bottle  and  cork,  add  water,  and  take ; oi 
boil  one  ounce  each  of  licorice-stick  and  anise-seed,  and  half  ounce  senna  iii 
one  quart  of  water,  ten  minutes  ; strain,  add  two  tea-cups  molasses  or  honey , 
boil  down  to  a pint  and  then  bottle;  or,  to  one  pint  whiskey  add  one-half 
pound  rock  candy  and  two  ounces  glycerine. 

Drunkenness. — There  is  a prescription  in  use  in  England  for  the  cure  0/ 
drunkenness,  by  which  thousands  are  said  to  have  been  assisted  in  recover < 
ing  themselves.  It  is  as  follows  ; Sulphate  of  iron,  five  grains ; peppermint 
water,  eleven  drachms;  spirit  of  nutmeg,  one  drachm;  twice  a day.  Thii^ 
preparation  acts  as  a stimulant  and  tonic,  and  partially  supplies  the  place  of 
the  accustomed  liquor,  and  prevents  that  absolute  physical  and  moral  pros  - 
tration that  follows  a sudden  cessation  from  the  use  of  stimulating  drinks. 

Relief  for  Burning  Feet. — To  relieve  burning  feet,  first  discard  tight  boots  ; 
then  take  one  pint  of  bran  and  one  ounce  of  bicarbonate  of  soda,  put  in  a foot- 
bath, add  one  gallon  of  hot  water;  when  cool  enough,  soak  your  feet  in  this 
mixture  for  fifteen  minutes.  The  relief  is  instantaneous.  This  must  be  pre- 
pared every  night  for  a week  or  perhaps  more.  The  bran  and  bicarbonate 
should  be  made  fresh  after  a week’s  use.  Bicarbonate  of  soda  can  be  pur- 
chased for  a small  price  per  pound  from  wholesale  druggists.  The  burning 
sensation  is  produced  by  the  pores  of  the  skin  being  closed,  so  that  the  feet 
do  not  perspire. 

Catarrh. — Wet  and  coid  at  tne  surface  of  the  body  is  a cause  of  catarrh, 
i)ut  the  most  fruitful  source  is  wet  and  coid  feet,  and  yet  there  is  nothing  more 
easy  to  avoid.  Warm  socks,  horsehair  soles, and  goloshes  will  always  keep  the 
feet  dry  and  warm.  It  does  not  seem  to  be  understood  that  although  a boot 
or  shoe  may  not  leak,  yet  if  the  sole  is  damp,  it  by  evaporation  conducts 
away  the  heat  from  the  foot,  and  ought  never  to  be  worn  when  not  exercising. 
The  neck  should  be  covered  lightly,  but  too  much  covering  predisposes  to  ca- 
tarrhal troubles  by  causing  congestion  of  the  membrane  affected  in  this  dis- 
ease. Bed-rooms  ought  to  be  well  aired,  and  unarmed  if  possible,  by  an  open 
fire,  in  damp,  chilly  weather. 

Clover  Tea. — Gather  the  blossoms  of  red  clover,  when  beginning  to  bloom, 
and  dry  for  use,  putting  away  in  tight  paper  sacks.  A tea  made  from  these 
blossoms  is  excellent  for  “hives,”  cancer,  or  any  disease  of  a scrofulous  na- 
ture. The  essence  of  clover  is  sometimes  used  instead  of  the  tea,  and  is  kept 


MEDICAL. 


1153 


at  drug  stores.  It  is  also  good  for  sickness  at  the  stomach.  The  tea  maybe 
made  of  the  fresh  blossoms  also.  For  cancer  the  tea  is  given  in  large  quan- 
tities, some  patients  drinking  a gallon  a day  every  day  for  a year  before  feel- 
ing certain  of  cure.  This  is  largely  prescribed  by  physicians. 

Taper  Lights. — The  best  light  for  a sick  room  is  furnished  by  the  tapers 
which  come  in  boxes  (bought  at  any  drug  store)  in  a vase  or  a tumbler  of 
lard-oil.  The  taper  is  simply  a small  wick  set  in  a tiny  piece  of  wood.  In 
the  box  of  tapers  is  a float — a three-cornered  frame  of  tin  with  a bit  of  cork 
on  each  corner.  This  is  placed  on  the  surface  of  the  oil,  and  the  taper  set  on 
it,  the  bottom  of  the  wood  resting  in  the  oil.  It  may  then  be  lighted,  and 
produces  an  agreeable  light,  without  smoke  or  smell,  and  sufficient  for  the 
purposes  of  the  sick-room  or  nursery,  and  yet  not  so  giaring  as  to  be  disa- 
greeable. All  persons  accustomed  to  light  in  the  sleeping-room  will  find 
this  much  better  than  a lamp  turned  low.  The  tumbler  may  be  half  full  of 
water  with  oil  on  top. 

Healing  Salve  for  Wounds. — Pint  olive-oil,  half  ounce  common  resin,  half 
ounce  beeswax  ; melt  well  together,  and  bring  all  to  boiling  heat ; add  grad- 
ually of  pulverized  red  lead-three-eighths  of  a pound  (for  summer  use  a trifl.p 
inore  lead) ; in  a short  time  after  it  is  taken  up  by  the  oil,  and  the  mixture  be 
comes  brown  or  a shining  black,  remove  from  the  fire,  and  v/hen  nearly  colo 
a,dd  two  scruples  pulverized  camphor.  It  should  remain  on  the  fire  until  it 
attains  a proper  consistency  for  spreading,  which  may  be  known  by  dipping 
a splint  or  knife  in  the  mixture  from  time  to  time,  and  allowing  it  to  cool. 
AVhen  used  spread  thinly  on  a piece  of  tissue  paper  or  old,  fine  linen.  Ex’ 
cellent  for  frost  sores  or  any  kind  that  are  hard  to  heal. 

How  to  Distinguish  Rashes. — Measles  appear  as  a number  of  dull  red 
spots,  in  many  places  running  into  each  other,  and  is  usually  first  seen  about 
the  face,  and  on  the  forehead,  near  the  roots  of  the  hair,  and  is  often  preced’ 
ed  by  running  of  the  eyes  and  liose,  and  all  the  signs  of  severe  cold.  Scarlet 
fever  appears  first  about  the  neck  and  chest,  but  not  unfrequently  at  the  bend 
of  the  elliow  or  under  the  knee,  and  is  usuall}^  proceeded  by  sore  throat.  II 
can  be  distinguished  from  roseola — a mild  disease,  which  is  sometimes  miS’ 
taken  for  it — by  the  bright  red  color  of  the  skin,  which  appears, not  unlike  a 
boiled  lobster.  In  chicken-pox  the  symptoms  are  attended  by  fever,  the  spots 
are  small,  separate  pimples,  and  come  generally  over  the  v/hole  body. 

Hot  Water  as  Medicine. — Consumptives  and  dyspeptics  find  great  relief 
in  drinking,  or  rather  slowly  sipping,  hot  water  an  hour  before  eating.  It 
should  be  as  hot  as  can  be  taken.  Sips  of  hot  water  are  also  good  where  the 
stomach  is  weak,  as  in  convalescence  after  illness.  In  a severe  case  of  dys- 
pepsia, the  patient  began  by  taking  six  teaspoons  of  hot  water  three  times  a 
day,  and  has  gradually  increased  the  amount  v/ith  the  greatest  benefit. 
Hot  water  is  also  excellent  in  cases  of  sick  stomach,  and  may  be  taken  when 
no  nourishment  of  any  kind  can  be  retained  in  the  stomach.  In  giving  to  a 
child,  and  it  is  very  beneficial  t*^  them,  give  with  a spoon  and  have  a cup  of 
cold  water  in  which  to  dip  spoon  oefore  taking  up  the  hot  water,  as  by  con- 
stant dipping  in  hot  water  the  metal  becomes  too  hot  for  the  little  ones  and 
they  will  not  take  the  water  hot  enough  fearing  the  spoon. 

Cuheb  Berries  for  Catarrh  . — A new  remedy  for  catarrh  is  crushed  cubeb 
berries  smoked  in  a pipe,  emitting  the  smoke  through  the  nose  ; after  a few 
trials  this  will  be  easy  to  do.  If  the  nose  is  stopped  up  so  that  it  is  almost 
impossible  to  breathe,  one  pipeful  will  make  the  head  as  clear  as  a bell.  For 
sore  throat,  asthma,  and  bronchitis,  swallowing  the  smoke  effects  immedi- 
ate relief.  It  is  the  best  remedy  in  the  Avorld  for  offensive  breath,  and  will 
make  the  most  foul  breath  pure  and  sweet.  Sufierers  from  that  horrid  dis- 
73 


1154 


MEDICAL. 


ease,  ulcerated  catarrh,  will  find  this  remedy  unequaled,  and  a month’s  use 
will  cure  the  most  obstinate  case.  A single  trial  will  convince  anyone.  Eat- 
ing the  uncrushed  berries  is  also  good  for  sore  throat  and  all  bronchial  com- 
plaints. After  smoking,  do  not  expose  yourself  to  cold  air  for  at  least  fifteen 
minutes. 

To  Cure  a Cold. — A bad  cold  should  be  ‘‘nipped  in  the  bud.”  To  do  this 
no  medicine  is  required  A person  who  finds  he  has  taken  cold  should  bun- 
dle up  unusually  warm  in  bed,  with  a bottle  of  hot  w'ater  at  his  feet.  The 
object  is  to  create  a mild  perspiration  the  entire  night.  Before  dressing  in 
the  morning  take  a sponge  bath  in  cold  water  and  apply  friction  to  the  skin 
until  it  is  in  a glow.  The  cold,  probably  will  then  have  disappeared,  but  if 
not  follow  the  same  course  another  night.  But  this  remedy  must  be  applied 
promptly  after  noting  the  first  indications. — such  as  sneezing  or  running  at 
the  nose  ; if  left  a day  or  two  the  cold  will  be  sure  to  run  its  course.  ‘ Often 
toasting  the  feet  the  whole  evening  by  the  fire  will  answer  the  purpose. 

For  Diarrhea. — Stir  lightly  into  teacupful  cold  water  the  white  of  one  egg 
not  beaten.  This  forms  a ccating  on  the  stomach,  and  is  also  nourishing,  and 
is  good  in  any  disease  where  patient  can  not  eat.  Another  delicate  prepara- 
tion for  a weak  stomach  is  slippery-elm  gruel : Mix  fine  slippery-elm  flour 
wuth  cold  water,  then  stir  into  boiling  water  till  thickness  of  gruel.  Charcoal 
crackers  are  of  great  value  in  assisting  digestion,  In  diarrhea  the  most  im- 
portant item  is  absolute  quiet  on  a bed.  Bits  of  ice  may  be  eaten  and  swal- 
lowed at  will,  but  drink  litttle  liquid  of  any  kind.  If  compelled  to  be  on  the 
feet,  bind  a strong  piece  of  woolen  flannel  tightly  around  the  abdomen,  hav- 
ing it  double  in  front.  For  diet,  use  rice  parched  like  coffee,  boiled  and  eat- 
en witli  a little  salt  and  butter.  Some  advise  making  a tea  of  it,  and  also 
using  boiled  milk  and  mutton  broth,  with  crisped  white  crackers,  for  chil- 
dren. Or,  use  ice-cold  enemas  after  each  movement  of  the  bowels — a tea- 
spoon for  a babe,  increasing  in  that  proportion  till,  for  an  adult,  a bulbful  is 
given.  This  is  good  in  cases  of  dysentery,  etc. 

For  Sore  Throat  — Rub  on  the  outside,  and  wet  cloth  in  Pond’s  Extract, 
and  gargle  witli  it  also,  taking  from  one  to  ten  drops  four  times  a day.  An- 
other excellent  remedy  is  camphor  diluted  with  water  till  it  can  be  used  as  a 
gargle.  Another  remedy  is  to  put  on  a strip  of  flannel  thin  slices  of  fat  pork, 
and  sprinkle  very  thick  with  black  pepper  and  place  around  the  throat,  or 
chop  fat  pork  and  onions  together,  about  half  and  half,  and  put  in  sack  and 
put  on  ; or  bathe  throat  in  coal  oil,  also,  in  diphtheria,  some  have  used  with 
benefit  bits  of  ice  kept  constantly  in  the  mouth  for  as  long  as  seven  hours  ; 
or  gargle  with  lemon  juice,  occasionally  swallowing  some.  Or  a bran  mash 
is  excellent — that  is,  bran  with  boiling  water  poured  over  it,  and  put  on  when 
just  warm  enough  to  feel  agreeable.  In  putting  it  on,  spread  the  poultice  in 
a thin  cloth,  and  lay  it  on  a handkerchief  folded  cornerwise,  and  the  corners 
of  the  handkerchief  over  the  head ; then  the  poultice  will  touch  the  tender 
places,  which  it  cannot  do  if  it  is  simply  bound  straight  around  the  throat. 
The  sufferer  from  sore  throat  should  eat  nothing  which  could  scratch  it,  like 
dry  toast.  Soft  boiled  eggs,  soft  toast,  and  diet  of  that  kind  should  be  in- 
dulged in,  and  the  drinks  should  be  merely  warm — not  too  hot  or  cold. 

Sleeplessness. — The  loss  of  power  to  cast  off  the  burden  of  the  day,  and 
find  rest  at  night,  is  one  of  the  greatest  of  personal  afflictions ; yet,  it  is  safe 
to  say  that  w^akefulness  at  night  is  an  acquired  habit,  wdiich  can  be  overcome, 
like  other  bad  habits,  if  not  too  long  indulged.  Let  any  adult  person  awake, 
say  at  midnight,  and  ‘‘get  to  thinking”  for  an  hour  or  two  ; do  this  the  fol- 
lowing three  or  four  nights  ; he  will  find  that  it  will  then  require  a powerful 
effort  of  the  will  to  resist  doing  the  same  thing  for  several  nights  thereafter. 


MEDICAL. 


1155 


A person  slionld  never  give  to  the  dangerous  habit  of  lying  awake  at 
nights  ; tor  thnt  is  exactly  what  it  is,  a dangerous  habit,  and  nothing  else. 

Golden  Ointment. — One  pound  lard,  eight  ounces  beeswax,  one  ounce  cam- 
phor gum  in  five  ounces  alcohol,  one  ounce  origanum,  one  ounce  laudanum ; 
let  all  dissolve  while  melting  the  lard  and  beeswax,  tlien  stir  together  until 
cold,  or  the  camphor  will  go  off  in  a steam.  Do  not  mix  too  hot.  This  will 
cure  pain  in  the  side  by  applying  as  a jfiaster.  For  enlarged  neck  or  goitre, 
dilute  with  one-fourth  iodine.  For  salt-rheum,  apply  externally,  and  take 
cathartics  to  cleanse  the  blood.  For  scald-head’  rub  together  one  ounce  golden 
ointment  and  three  drachms  of  red  precipitate  ; remove  the  hair  and  rub  with 
this  twice  a day,  each  day  washing  with  castile  soap  suds.  For  catarrh,  rub 
the  ointment  up  in  the  nose  profusely,  and  let  it  remain  all  night.  In  the 
morning  draw'  cold  w^ater  up  the  nose  and  throw  it  back  tw'o  or  three  times 
to  clean  the  tubernated  bones.  Also  bathe  the  face  and  ears  wdth  cold  water. 

Chronic  Inflammation  of  the  Stomach. — This  is  known  by  a pain  in  the 
stomach,  increased  by  the  presence  of  food,  by  belching  up  gas,  by  vomiting, 
fickle  appetite,  seasons  of  thirst,  tongue  wdiite  in  the  center  and  red  at  tip, 
or  sometimes  red  and  smooth — is  a disease  which  soon  ends  in  ulceration 
of  stomach,  and  death.  Counter-irritants  oVer  the  stomach,  such  as  mustartl 
draughts,  followed  by  hot  fomentations  of  hops  ; frequent  warmer  cold  baths 
according  to  patient’s  constitution  ; a tepid  compress  worn  over  the  stomacli 
at  night ; and  the  most  careful  diet,  consisting  mostly  of  gum  water,  rict? 
W'ater,  slippery-elm  water  and  gruel,  arrowu’oot  gruel,  toast  without  butter, 
gluten  mush,  etc.,  and  in  tw'O  or  three  weeks  the  disease  will  yield  under 
this  persistent  starving  and  cooling  system. 

Bright’s  Disease. — Dr.  Arthur  Scott  Dorkin  extols  a skim-miljr.  diet  iii 
this  disease.  “The  first  appreciable  action,”  he  says,  “of  skim-milk  taken  to 
the  extent  of  six  or  seven  pints  daily,  is  that  of  a most  energetic  diuretic, 
a profuse  flow  of  urine  being  rapidly  produced.  The  effect  of  this  in 
Bright’s  disease,  is  to  to  flush  the  uriniferous  tubules,  and  to  dislodge  and 
wash  out  the  concrete  casts  of  diseased  epithelial  cells  by  wdiich  thev  are 
blocked  up  and  distented.  The  emptying  of  the  tubules  relieves  their 
pressure  on  the  surrounding  secondary  capillaries,  the  blood  begins  to  flow 
more  freely  ^through  them,  the  distension  of  the  primary  malpighian  ca- 
pillaries is  relieved ; less  and  less  albumen  escapes  through  their  walls, 
until  the  renal  circulation  is  gradually  restored,  when  xt  finaly  disappears 
from  the  urine.  While  this  beneficial  change  is  progressing,  healthy  epi- 
thelium is  developed  in  the  tubules,  and  the  urinary  excrement  is  withdrawn 
from  the  blood.  In  short,  a healthy  nutrition  becomes  re-established  in 
the  kidneys  through  the  agency  of  milk,  w'hich  above  all  other  substances, 
seems  to  exercise  a controlling  influence  over  this  process. 

For  a Cowp/i. - Simmer  together  a handful  each  of  hoarhound  and  mul- 
lein leaves  in  a quart  of  soft  vrater  till  all  the  strength  is  extracted  (add 
more  w'ater  if  neccessary) ; then  strain  and  add  to  it  one  quart  of  Orleans 
molasses.  Dose,  one  tablespoonful  three  times  a day.  Or  for  hoarseness 
w^et  a piece  of  cotton. batting  on  the  inside,  wrap  it  around  a lemon,  and 
cover  with  ashes  and  coals  to  roast  as  you  w'ould  roast  a potato  ; let  it  roast 
from  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes;  take  out,  clip  off  one  end,  squeeze  out  the 
juice,  and  strain  it  through  a thin  cloth  te  remove  any  seeds  or  particles  of 
pulp.  There  wdll  be  from  four  to  five  teaspoonsfuls  of  juice,  which  mix 
with  an  equal  quantity  of  strained  honey  (to  strain  wuirin  and  strain  throngh 
a thin  cloth) ; or,  instead  of  honey,  add  three  teaspoonfuls  of  granulated 
sugar,  place  the  cup  in  a pan  of  hot  water,  set  on  stove  until  sugar  is  dis- 
solved. Take  euo  o:»'  tw'o  teasnoonfid-s  every  hour,  or  after  a spell  of  cough- 
ing. « ohdd  add  a lar^>^er  proportion  of  honey  and  sugar,  and  give  a 

yuane”.  t^^a^pocnful  everv  twc  fiour.s. 


115G 


MEDICAL. 


l^lioojjing-cough. — Children  do  not  ‘‘whoop’’  for  two  or  three  weeks  after 
taking  this  disease.  The  most  reliable  symptons  are:  eyes  red  and  watery 
when  they  cough,  and  the  cough  clinging  to  the  patient  with  a firm  grasp.  It 
lasts  from  six  weeks  to  three  months,  according  to  season  when  taken,  and 
can  be  given  during  the  first  two  months.  It  is  not  carried  in  clothes,  but 
when  a child  gets  the  breath  of  a whooping-cough  patient  then  he  will  take 
it.  Some  of  the  remedies  are,  to  give  drinks  of  water  as  hot  as  they  can  be 
taken,  in  the  evening  and  with  first  symptoms  of  a coughing  spell — this 
makes  the  cough  easier  ; another  is,  to  take  scant  tea-cup  whole  flax-seed, 
’•wash  it  thoroughly,  add  one  lemon  sliced  and  quart  of  water,  simmer  gently 
wo  hours,  add  two  tablespoons  of  honey,  tlien  strain  when  hot.  It  should 
>e  like  thick  molasses  ; if  too  tliick,  add  water.  Give  one  tablespoonful  four 
times  a day,  and  one  after  each  severe  fit  of  coughing.  (This  is  also  good  for 
an  ordinary  cold  and  cough. ) The  system  of  the  patient  needs  to  be  built  up, 
and  for  that  purpose  give  two  oil-baths  a week  ; also  good,  nourishing  food, 
such  as  Graham  or  oatmeal  mush,  coarse  bread,  milk,  etc. ; and  keep  child 
out  doors  as  much  as  possible,  using  great  care  no  cold  is  taken.  Some,  when 
the  breathing  is  very  bad,  put  a hot  mustard  and  oatmeal  poultice  on  the 
chest.  In  cities,  a daily  visit  to  the  gas  works  has  been  said  to  abate  the 
violence  of  the  disease.  A new  remedy  is  to  fumigate  patient  with  burning 
sulphur,  then  remove  him  and  more  thoroughly  fumigate  the  room.  Eedress 
patient  in  clean,  well-aired  clothes  and  return  to  fumigated  room.  Do  this 
twice  a week  if  necessary. 

For  Comtipafjon.—T'ae  same  remedies  will  not  effect  all  persons.  Oneo-r 
two  figs  eaten  fasting  is  suflicient  for  some,  and  they  are  especially  good  in 
the  cases  of  children,  as  there  is  no  trouble  in  getting  them  to  take  them.  A 
spoon  of  wheaten  bran  in  a glass  of  water  is  a simple  remedy  and  quite  effec- 
tive. One  or  two  tumblers  of  liot  water  will  move  almost  every  one,  but  is 
difficult  to  take.  In  chronic  cases  a faithful  manapulation  and  moving  of 
bowels  and  limbs  with  gentle  rotar}^  movement  with  the  open  palm,  and  giv- 
ing all  natural  motions  to  the  parts,  with  proper  diet,  will  almost  invariably 
secure  the  desired  result.  It  has  been  known  to  cure  a case  of  life-long  habit, 
■where  inherited,  too,  and  although  it  involves  patience  and  perseverence,  is 
is  certainly  better  than  to  suffer  the  ills  that  result  from  so  inany  patent 
medicines  and  quack  nostrums.  “An  ounce  of  prevention  is  worth'a  pound 
of  cure,”  2ii\d  regularity  of  habit  in  tins  matter  is  the  great  thing  to  be  im- 
pressed on  people  generally.  Or,  three  tea-cups  each  of  coarse,  clean,  wheat 
l3ran  and  sifted  flour,  three  teaspoons  baking  powder,  seven  teaspoons  good 
butter  and  one  of  salt.  Mix  wdth  cold  sweet  milk  ; roll  third  of  an  inch  thick, 
cut  with  a biscuit  cutter  and  bake  thoroughly  in  a moderate  oven ; or,  pour 
hot  water  on  tablespoon  flax  seed,  pour  off  and  at  once  add  three  or  four 
tablespoons  of  cold  water,  and  drink.  This  is  perfectly  harmless  and  may 
betaken  once,  twice,  or  thrice  a day  if  necessary;  or,  a teaspoon  black 
mustard-seed  taken  pvery  morning;  or  a glass  of  cold  water  taken  at  night 
and  first  thing  in  the  morning.  In  rubbing  the  bowels  with  the  hands  al- 
ways rub  from  left  to  right. 

Toothache. — Place  a small  bit  of  zinc  on  one  side  of  the  gum,  and  a small 
silver  coin  on  the  other  and  bring  the  ebges  together,  electricity  is  generated 
and  the  pain  ceases.  Most  toothache.is  caused  by  cold.  Fill  the  mouth  full 
of  law  cotton  between  the  gum  and  the  cheek  and  the  gum  and  the  tongue. 
Put  a piece  of  cotton  on  the  outside  of  the  face  (moistened  with  some  good 
liniment  if  you  have  it),  then  put  a hot  sand  bag,  or  hot  iron,  to  the  face. 
Soon  the  clear  water  will  commence  to  run  out  of  the  mouth  freel)',  and  the 
pain  is  relieved.  For  Neuralgia  apply  a tuning  fork,  while  fibrating,  over 
the  course  of  the  painful  nerve,  continue  about  half  an  hour. 


MEDICAL. 


1157 


Inhalation  of  Tar  for  Consumption. — Mix  together  sixteen  ounces  of  liquid 
tar  and  one  flui^  ounce  liquor  of  pottassa,  boil  them  for  a few  minutes  in  the 
open  air,  then  let  it  simmer  in  an  iron  vessel  over  a spirit  or  other  lamp  in 
the  chamber  of  the  patient.  ^ This  may  at  first  excite  a disposition  to  cough, 
but  in  a short  time  it  allays  it.  and  removes  any  tendency  to  it.  Or  the  fol- 
lowing is  said  to  be  an  effectual  remedy.  Live  temperately,  avoid  spirituous 
liquors,  wear  flannel  next  the  skin,  and  take,  every  morning,  half  a pint  of 
new  milk,  mixed  with  a wine  glassful  of  the  expressed  juice  of  green  hoar- 
hound.  One  who  has  tried  it,  says,  “Four  weeks’  use  of  the  hoarhound  and 
milk  relieved  the  pains  in  my  breast,  gave  me  ability  to  breathe  deep,  long 
Piid  free,  strengthened  and  harmonized  my  voice,  and  restored  me  to  a bet- 
ter state  of  health  than  I had  enjoyed  for  years.”  The  French  method  is 
ode-half  pound  finely  cut  up  fresh  beefsteak ; one  drachm  pulverized  char- 
coal : four  ounces  pulverized  sugar ; four  ounces  rye  whiskey ; one  pint  boil- 
ing water.  Mix  all  together,  let  it  stand  in  a cool  place  over  night,  and  give 
from  one  to  two  teaspoons  liquid  and  meat  before  each  meal.  The  dose 
should  be  sm.all  at  first,  until  the  stomach  becomes  used  to  it,  then  gradually 
increased.  But  one  of  the  most  simple  of  remedies  and  one  that  has  been 
found  beneficial  is  the  leaves  and  flowers  of  the  common  mullein.  Make  a 
strong  tea  of  the  fresh  or  dried  leaves  (best  when  gathered  from  plants  in 
blossom)  and  drink  freely.  Continue  from  three  to  six  months,  according  to 
the  severity  of  the  disease.  This  remedy  is  “good  for  the  blood”  also,  build- 
ing up  the  system,  and  making  good  blood,  and  taking  away  the  inflamation 
from  the  lungs. 

Good  Cures  for  Croup. — Boil  pigs’  feet  in  water,  without  salt,  and  let  it 
stand  over  night ; in  the  morning  skim  off  the  fat  (which  will  be  formed  in 
a cake  on  top),  put  in  a tin  pan,  boil  until  all  water  is  evaporated ; bottle,  and 
keep  for  use.  Give  a teaspoon  every  fifteen  minutes  on  the  appearance  of 
the  first  symptoms,  and  apply  freely  to  chest  and  throat,  rubbing  well.  A 
celebrated  physician  says  that  a child  cannot  have  the  croup  if  pigs’  feet  oil 
is  administered  at  the  first  symptoms.  Or,  warm  a teaspoon  with  a little 
lard  in  it  or  goose  grease ; thicken  with  sugar,  and  give  it  to  the  child ; it 
may  produce  vomiting,  v/hich  is  always  desirable,  thus  breaking  up  the  mem- 
brane that  is  forming.  Apply  lard  or  goose  grease  to  throat  and  chest,  with 
raw  cotton  or  fiannel.  Care  must  be  taken,  removing  only  a small  piece  at 
a time  of  these  extra  wraps  to  prevent  taking  cold.  Or  take  a knife  or  grate 
and  shave  off  in  small  particles  about  a teaspoonful  of  alum  ; then  mix  it 
with  twice  its  quantity  of  molasses,  to  make  it  palatable,  and  administer  it 
as  quick  as  possible.  Almost  instantaneously  relief  will  follow  by  vomiting. 
Another  remedy  given  by  a writer  of  professed  experience  is  to  first  get  a piece 
of  chamois  skin,  make  a little  bib, cut  out  neck  and  sew  on  tapes  to  tie  it  on ; 
then  melt  together  some  tallow  and  pine  tar ; rub  some  of  this  on  chamois  and 
let  the  child  wear  it  all  the  time.  My  baby  had  the  croup  whenever  she  took 
cold,  and  since  I put  on  the  chamois  I have  had  no  more  trouble.  Aenew 
with  tar  occasionally.  Or  to  one-half  cup  N.  O.  molasses  add  a teaspoon 
soda,  beat  to  a white  froth,  and  give  a teaspoon  every  few  minutes  till  re- 
lieved by  vomiting ; or,  one  part  pulverized  alum  to  two  parts  white  sugar, 
and  give  in  same  way  ; or  grease  a cloth  (made  in  the  shape  of  a bib)  thor- 
oughly and  dust  thickly  with  nutmeg,  and  put  on  over  throat  and  chest 
when  there  seems  any  tendensy  to  hoarseness  in  afternoon,  croup  generally 
devel  owing  at  midnight,  keeping  it  on  for  several  days  after  the  child  is  well, 
and  when  taken  off  put  on  a flannel  cloth  for  a few  days,  and  then  some 
morning  take  this  off  and  bathe  well  in  cold  water  and  rub  dry ; or  take  foui 
or  five  hollyhock  blossoms,  boil,  and  apply  wet  around  the  throat;  or  apply 
hot  fermentations  to  the  throat  and  chest,  sponge  off  with  tepid  water,  rub 
dry,  and  apply  oil  and  ammonia  ; or  some  apply  cold  wet  cloths  over  throat 
and  chest,  covering  well  with  flannel,  changing  often  until  inflamation  is  sub 


1158 


MEDICAL. 


dued.  From  two  years  to  eight  is  the  croup  period ; and  when  a cold  assumes 
croupy  symptoms  great  care  should  be  taken  to  keep  the  child  indoors,  in  a 
warm,  well- ventilated  room,  giving  good  food,  no  meats,  hot  bread  or  ber- 
ries. (Raw  or  cooked  onions  are  good  as  a preventive  of  either  worms  or 
croup.)  A remedy  said  to  give  relief  where  other  means  fail,  is  to  let  a healthy 
person  fill  his  lungs  with  pure  air,  then  slowly  breath  upon  the  patient’s 
throat  and  chest,  commencing  at  the  point  of  the  chin  and  moving  slowly 
down  to  the  bottom  of  the  windpipe. 

Cure  for  Felon. — When  a felon  first  makes  its  appearance,  take  the  inside 
skin  of  an  egg-shell,  and  wrap  it  around  the  part  affected.  When  the  press- 
ure becomes  too  painful,  wet  it  with  water,  and  keep  it  on  twelve  hours  ; or 
roast  or  bake  thoroughly  a large  onion ; mix  the  soft  inner  pulp  with  tw’o 
heaping  tablespoons  of  table  salt,  and  apply  the  mixture  to  the  affected  parts 
as  a poultice,  keeping  the  parts  well  covered.  Make  fresh  applications  at 
least  twice  a day,  morning  an,d  evening,  and  a cure  will  follow  in  at  least  a 
week.  Or  take  a pint  of  common  soft  soap  and  stir  in  air  slackd  lime  till  it  is 
of  the  consistency  of  glazier’s  putty.  Make  a leather  thimble,  fill  it  vfith  this 
composition  and  insert  the  finger  therein,  and  the  cure  is  certain.  Or,  one 
teaspoon  of  scorched  salt,  one  teaspoon  corn  meal,  one  teaspoon  of  scraped 
hard  soap,  one  teaspoon  of  beet  leaves  pounded  up,  twelve  drops  of  turpen- 
tine, and  the  yolk  of  one  egg.  Mix  all  ingredients  together  in  the  form  of  a 
poultice,  in  which  bind  closely  the  swollen  finger.  Or  procure  five  or  six 
lemons,  cut  off  the  end  of  one,  thrust  the  sore  finger  into  the  lemon  and  let 
it  stay  till  the  lemon  is  warm  ; proceed  in  the  same  way  till  all  the  six  are 
used.  Or,  put  a piece  of  Spanish-fiy  plaster  over  the  spot  affected,  and  that 
will  draw  the  trouble  to  the  surface  ; or,  on  first  appearance,  apply  a poultice 
of  the  common  Fleur  de  Lis  root  w^ell  mashed.  It  will  cure  in  a short  time. 
Or  take  equal  parts  of  gum  camphor,  opium,  castile  soap,  brown  sugar ; wet 
to  a ])aste  with  spirits  of  turpentine,  and  apply  like  a salve.  Those  who  have 
tried  it  say  it  is  an  invaluable  remedy.  Or  take  common  rock-salt,  such  as 
is  used  in  salting  down  beef  or  pork,  and  mix  with  spirits  of  turpentine  in 
equal  parts,  and  as  it  gets  dry  put  on  more,  and  in  twenty-four  hours  you  are 
cured.  Or  when  you  feel  a felon  is  coming,  put  a pint  tin  of  boiling  water 
on  the  stove  ; then  add  to  that  a teaspoonful  of  saleratus  and  a wine  glass  of 
vinegar;  heat  this  every  little  while,  say  from  half  an  hour  to  an  hour,  and 
hold  your  finger  in  it  till  the  pain  subsides  ; repeat  this  till  you  see  all  the 
matter  drawn  to  one  place  ; then  have  it  opened,  and  your  finger  wuil  heal. 
After  a felon  has  been  lanced,  apply  a poultice  of  equal  parts  of  flaxseed  and 
slippery-elm  flour  to  take  out  inflamation.  Or  use  the  Buckeye  Salve  made  by 
taking  tw-o  pounds  of  fat  from  the  outside  of  ham  or  smoked  meat,  six  onions, 
resin  and  beeswax,  each  the  size  of  an  egg  (use  the  common  dark  resin  and 
wax,  and  for  summer  use  increase  the  proportion  of  both)._  Fry  ham  fat 
until  partly  done,  add  onions  sliced,  fry  to  a light  brown,  skim  out  onions, 
press  through  a colander,  and  add  this  to  lard  in  skillet ; add  resin  and  wax, 
heat  and  stir  until  thoroughly  dissolved,  and  pour  into  a pan  to  cool.  Like 
all  salve,  it  must  be  kept  closely  covered  or  it  will  lose  its  strength,  but  if 
well  covered  will  keep  a year.  A mother  writes,  ‘T  never  feel  safe  wdthout 
a supply  of  it  in  the  house,  and  have  found  that  my  children  seldom  need  any  - 
other  medicine.  I use  it  in  croup,  whooping  cough,  diphtheria,  colds,  scarlet 
fever,  lung  fever,  asthma,  felons,  boils,  healings  of  all  kinds,  burns,  and  sore  and 
inflamed  breasts.  For  the  first  seven,  it  is  spread  on  a fine  piece  of  Canton 
flannel  and  placed  over  the  entire  chest,  and  in  severe  cases  over  the  back 
also,  joining  them  on  the  shoulders  and  under  the  arms.  It  should  be  put  on 
thick  and  covered  with  flannel  or  cotton  batting.  Keep  on  until  it  gives  re- 
lief, or  if  it  becomes  uncomfortable  or  rough,  remove,  and  apply  afresh  poul- 
tice if  necessary.  It  is  cooling  in  its  nature  and  very  quieting.  For  burns 


MEDICAL. 


1159 


and  healings  it  should  be  used  in  the  form  of  a poultice,  also  for  sore  throat. 
My  physicians  have  always  encouraged  its  use  for  the  above  complaints.  For 
breasts,  cut  a piece  of  cloth  round  with  a hole  in  the  center  for  the  infant, 
then  cover  the  breast  entirely  over  with  the  cloth  on  which  the  salve  has 
been  spread.” 

Scarlet  Fever,  or  Scarlatina. — When  to  the  feeling  of  general  illness  w^hich  ' 
accompanies  all  levers  is  added  a very  rapid  pulse,  120-130  and  a temperature 
of  100^-1040-105°,  and  there  is  a dry,  hot  feeling  in  the  throat,  with  tonsils 
red  and  sw'ollen,  and  distress  on  trying  to  sw^allow,  it  is  safe  to  suspect  an 
infectious  disease,  and  probably  scarlet  fever.  The  sick  person  should  be 
isolated  at  once  in  a room  as  much  apart  from  the  other  members  as  possible, 
the  higher  up  in  the  house  the  better,  and  a good  physician  sent  for. 

The  rash  generally  appears  about  the  second  day,  beginning  on  the  neck 
and  chest,  and  extending  over  the  whole  body,  the  deepest  color  being  on  the 
neck  the  outer  side  of  the  limbs,  the  joints,  hands  and  feet.  The  cheeks  are 
a bright,  deep  red.  The  case  having  been  declared  to  be  scarlet  fever,  all 
precautions  given  for  infectious  diseases,  as  regards  isolation  and  disinfection, 
must  be  observed. 

The  room  should  be  kept  at  an  even  temperature  of  65° ; light  a fire,  if 
possible,  and  leave  the  window  down  an  inch  at  the  top.  Throw  the  window 
open  and  change  the  air  entirely  twice  a day,  covering  the  patient  head  and 
all  at  the  time  and  until  the  room  is  again  warm.  Do  not  be  afraid  of  fresh, 
dry  outside  air,  but  be  sure  that  the  patient  is  covered  head  and  all,  so  that 
no  cold  air  is  breathed,  while  you  are  airing  and  warming  the  room. 

Give  the  patient  once  or  twice  daily,  a warm  sponge  or  plunge  bath,  as 
directed  by  the  physician,  being  careful  that  he  is  covered  with  a blanket 
during  the  bathing,  thrown  over  the  bed  or  tub ; dry  quickly  with  warm, 
soft  towmls,  and  as  the  patient  lies  in  bed,  rub  the  entire  surface  of  the  body 
with  vaseline,  cocoa-oil  or  w^hatever  oil  the  physician  orders.  The  old-fash- 
ioned oiling  wdth  ham  rinds  being  very  efficient.  The  bed  clothing  should 
be  warm,  but  never  heavy ; keep  the  feet  and  legs  warm. 

Gruels,  milk,  simple  broth,  etc.,  are  generally  enough.  When  there  is 
exhaustion  from  fever,  the  doctor  wdll  give  orders  as  to  stimulating  nourish- 
ment. Cold  water  or  weak  lemonade  may  be  given  freely,  unless  the  doctor 
orders  differently. 

Keep  the  patient  strictly  in  bed ; make  use  of  the  bed  pan  and  urinal  to 
prevent  getting  up.  Guard  in  every  way  a check  of  perspiration.  If  the  pa- 
tient is  proped  up  in  bed,  see  that  a short  jacket  or  small  shawl  is  put  over 
the  night-dress,  but  use  nothing  that  can  not  be  washed. 

Notice  the  breathing  at  night  or  in  sleep,  whether  it  is  even  and  deep, 
or  short  and  labored,  as  if  there  were  trouble  with  the  air-passages.  Be  par- 
ticularly watchful  of  the  condition  of  the  excretions,  especially  of  the  urine ; 
should  it  become  scanty  or  smoky  colored,  report  it  at  once  to  the  physician. 
Observe  whether  their  is  a free  though  seemingly  harmless  discharge  from 
the  nose ; this  may  indicate  diphtheritic  trouble.  See  w^hether  there  is  any 
swelling  of  limbs.  In  short  there  is  nothing  which  must  not  be  observed 
with  care,  and  reported  accurately  to  the  doctor. 

The  skin  becomes  dry  and  generally  begins  to  scale  off  about  the  fifth 
day  after  the  rash  appears.  No  patient  should  be  allowed  to  leave  his  bed 
until  this  process  is  completed.  The  warm  baths  should  be  kept  up,  the  least 
chilfiness  guarded  against,  and  the  temperature  of  the  room  allowed  now  to 
be  70°.  After  the  peeling  is  over  the  patient  should  still  remain  fn  his  room 
for  two  weeds,  and  should  be  separate  from  other  members  of  tho  family  not 
less  than  a month  from  the  commencement  of  the  disease.  Severe  cases  of 
scarlet  fever  may  follow  from  exposure  to  light  ones.  See  that  the  patient  is 
well  wrapped,  with  hands  and  feet  protected,  on  first  going  into  the  open  air. 


1160 


MEDICAL. 


The  troubles  which  may  arise  out  of  an  attack  are  frequently  the  result 
of  carelessness  on  the  part  of  the  nurse,  neglect  of  orders,  exposure  to  cold^ 
etc.  There  can  not  be  too  much  care  taken  of  the  lightest  case.  A bad  attack 
wull  compel  attention,  but  ‘‘slight  cases,”  so  called,  are  often  neglected  with 
fatal  results,  or  life-long  deafness  or  other  disability.  Dropsy,  malignant  sore 
(throat,  diseases  of  the  kidneys,  weakness  of  the  lungs,  pleurisy  and  many 
other  maladies,  lie  in  wait  for  the  scarlet  fever  patients. 

The  Treatment  •/  Diphtheria. — The  symptoms  of  diphtheria  are  much  like 
a common  sore  throat  accompanied  by  a severe  cold.  The  sore  throat  is  ac- 
companied wuth  more  fever  ttian  an  ordinary  cold,  and  there  is  an  indescrib- 
able sickish  feeling,  which  is  easily  recognized  by  those  who  have  once  ex- 
perienced it.  Later,  white  patches  appear  in  the  throat,  on  the  tonsils,  :he 
back  of  the  throat,  and  on  the  arches  of  the  palate.  The  throat  is  generally 
but  little  swollen  on  the  outside,  but  in  all  cases  when  there  is  a suspicion  ef 
|diphtheria,  it  is  not  safe  to  delay  sending  for  a physician,  as  the  disease  does  its 
.work  quickly,  and  must  he  de-alt  with  in  time  or  it  is  fatal.  There  are  really 
ithree  varieties  of  the  disease.  The  first  is  characterized  by  fever,  severe 
[pains  in  back  and  limbs,  and  very  great  prostration.  There  may  be  no  sore- 
jness  of  the  throat,  but  small  white  specks  will  be  noticed  on  the  tonsils  anc' 
mack  of  the  throat ; but  the  glands  of  the  neck  do  not  become  swollen.  In  tin 
third,  udiicli  is  the  true  malignant  diphtheria,  there  is  swelling  of  theglandif 
of  the  neck  and  under  jaw,  profuse  and  offensive  discharges  from  the  moutl\ 
and  throat,  and  more  or  less  discharge  from  the  nostrils.  In  the  first  twc.' 
varieties,  the  disease  generally  yields  to  simple  treatment, the  disease  is  too 
subtle  and  dangerous  to  he  trifled  with,  and  a physician  should  he  summoned. 
One  of  the  best  remedies  for  domestic  use  in  the  early  stages  of  the  disease, 
is,  probably,  chlorate  of  potash,  put  into  a tumbler  of  water  until  no  more 
will  dissolve,  and  used  as  a gargle.  If  swallowed  it  is  harmless.  It  is  cheap 
— five  to  ten  cents  worth  being  sufficient  for  almost  any  case,  and  it  may  be 
kept  in  the  house  for  emergencies.  It  is  also  an  excellent  remedy,  used  as  a- 
hove  described,  for  ordinary  sore  throat.  In  the  case  of  children  too  young 
to  use  the  gargle,  make  a swab  on  the  end  of  a firm  round  stick,  by  binding 
on  a small  piece  of  linen  or  cotton  cloth ; use  only  once  and  burn  it,  i.  e.  the 
rag.  Take  the  handle  of  a teaspoon  and  press  the  tongue  down  so  as  to  see 
plainly  the  condition  of  the  throat ; swab  piickly  and  draw  out.  Do  not  worry 
the  child  by  poking  the  stick  down  its  throat  a half  dozen  times,  make  a 
sure  thing  the  first  time,  for  if  you  touch  the  affected  parts,  well ; better  do 
it  again  in  two  hours.  Dip  swab  in  a n "eparation  (which  may  also  be  used 
as  a gargle)  of  alcohol,  diluted  with  water,  hut  as  strong  as  the  patient  can  hear. 
The  alcohol  acts  quickly  upon  the  poison  of  the  disease,  and  is  a remedy 
easily  obtained  and  kept  at  hand.  When  attacked  with,  diphtheria,  the  pa- 
tient should  be  kept  in  bed  with  sufficient  clothing  over  the  body  for  comfort 
and  no  more.  The  room  should  be  well  supplied  with  pure  air,  and  nouirsh- 
ment  should  be  given  in  the  shape  of  well-prepared  beef-tea  every  two  hours. 
Cut  fresh  beef  into  pieces,  put  into  a bottle  without  water,  and  boil  in  a pot 
of  water.  To  an  adult  give  a great  spoonful  of  the  beef  tea  thus  made,  every 
two  hours,  and  less  in  proportion  to  age.  If  this  does  not  agree  with  the  pa- 
tient, or  there  is  any  difficulty  in  the  patient’s  swallowing  it,  substitute  the 
white  of  an  egg ; heat  till  smooth,  mix  with  half  a tumbler  of  w^ater,  and  give 
a tablespoon  at  a time.  This  is  very  nourishing,  and  is  often  taken  more 
readily  than  beef-tea.  It  is  particularly  important  to  nourish  the  patient  with 
proper  supplies  of  food  in  the  early  stages  of  the  disease,  as  there  is  danger  that 
the  supply  of  vitalized  blood  will  not  be  sTiffieient  to  meet  the  demand  made 
by  the  disease.  Plenty  of  milk  is  highly  nutritious. 

The  homeopathic  treatment  is  to  begin  at  once  with  aconite  and  bella- 
donna, alternately  every  hour.  If  after  four  hours  there  is  no  improvement. 


MEDICAL. 


1161 


and  the  characteristic  prostration,  and  the  patches  on  the  tonsils  are  increas- 
ing, stop  the  aconite,  and  supply  its  place  with  the  proto-iodide  of  mercurius. 
Let  those  two  remedies  be  continted  until  there  is  a marked  change  for 
better  or  W'orse.  If  for  the  former,  let  the  intervals  be  increased  to  one  and 
a half  or  two  hours  ; for  the  latter,  and  there  is  approaching  unconsiousness, 
with  frequent  arousing  to  cough  up  or  hawk  up  the  detached  fragments  of 
the  deposits,  that  brings  up  tough,  ropy,  yellowish  mucus,  give  kali  bichom- 
icum  alone  every  hour.  When  the  patient  becomes  really  better,  stop  and 
give  no  more  medicine  while  the  improvement  goes  on  satisfactorily. 

One  reason  why  it  is  important  to  summon  a physician  as  soon  as  the 
symptoms  of  the  disease  appear,  is  that  many  cases  which  appear  slight,  at 
first,  are  really  most  serious  ayid  fatal,  while  a common  sore  throat  excites  the 
greatest  alarm,  the  judgement  of  the  physician  being  necessary  to  decide  the 
amount  of  danger  in  the  case. 

In  some  cases  dry  sulphur,  applied  to  the  tonsils  and  throat  gives  relief, 
and  in  violent  cases  the  fumes  of  sulphur,  burned  in  the  close  room,  have 
been  used  with  good  effect.  An  outward  application  to  the  throat,  of  lard 
as  hot  as  it  can  be  borne,  is  an  aid  to  the  other  remedies  mentioned. 

To  avoid  all  causes  of  Diphtheria,  keep  the  house  free  from  dirt  and  filth  of 
every  kind  from  cellar  to  garret.  See  that  no  sewers  give  off  gases,  no  drains 
are  left  filthy,  and  no  out-house  uncleaned,  and  bear  in  mind  that  it  is  not 
enough  to  destroy  bad  smells  by  disinfectants — the  cause  of  the  smells  must 
be  removed. 

A lad}"  who  had  the  courage  and  coolness  to  treat  herself,  through  a sev- 
ere ease  of  diphtheria,  when  no  physician  was  at  hand,  describes  her  case 
thus  : “I  first  noticed  spores  (the  characteristic  white  patches  which  appear 
on  the  throat)  on  my  right  tonsil  at  9 a.  m.  By  noon  they  had  spread  over  the 
entire  arch  of  the  palate,  and  the  back  of  the  throat.  Several  of  these  were 
loosened  before  nightj  but  during  the  night  they  had  spread  up  the  nose  and 
down  the  bronchial  tube.  My  palate  and  tonsils  were  so  swollen  that  I could 
scarcely  speak,^  and  with  difficulty  swallow.  The  gland  on  the  right  side  of 
neck  was  mucli  swoollen,  and  ached,  causing  a dull  pain  in  the  ear.  The 
breath  had  the  unpleasant  odor  peculiar  to  the  disease,  and  I had  an  intense, 
k'urning  fever.  I began  my  remedies  as  soon  as  1 discovered  the  spores.  I took  a 
clay  pipe,  filled  the  bowl  one-eighth  full  of  dry  sulphur,  powdered  very  fine, 
flnd  shook  it  down  into  the  stem.  I then  placed  the  end  of  the  stem  in  my 
I hroat,  and  held  it  there  in  front  of  the  spore,  while  an  attendant  blew  into 
i he  bowl,  and  repeated  this  until  the  whole  diseased  surface  of  the  throat  was  cov- 
. red  with  dry  sulphur,  taking  care  to  hold  my  breath  while  the  sulphur  was 
being  blown  in.  In  half  an  hour  this  was  repeated.  I then  made  a strong 
gargle  of  chlorate  of  potash,  and  half  an  hour  after  using  the  last  sulphur, 
gargled  my  throat  thoroughly.  I then  alternated  the  sulphur  with  the  gar- 
gle of  chlorate  of  potash  every  hour.  At  night  I mixed  a tea-spoon  of  sulphur 
with  water,  and  swallowed  it  slowly,  and  continued  taking  it  in  this  way  three 
times  a day.  Blowing  sulphur  into  the  throat,  and  gargling  with  chlorate  of 
t>otash  was  kept  up  regularly  for  four  days,  until  every  spore  had  disappeared, 
exactly  as  at  first,  except  making  the  intervals  longer  as  the  disease  abated. 
Whenever  I felt  them  getting  down  the  bronchial  tube,  I drew  breath  gently 
when  the  sulphur  was  being  blown  into  my  throat.  It  almost  chocked  me  to 
death,  but  I persevered.  For  my  uose  I snuffed  up  sulphur,  just  as  old  ladies 
take  snuff,  until  satisfied  that  every  part  was  reached.  When  the  spores 
came  oflT  I watched  for  new  ones,  and  did  not  relax  my  attention  for  one  mo- 
ment for  five  days.  When  better,  I made  a gargle  of  honey,  sage  and  water, 
to  heal  and  remove  the  swelling  in  the  throat.  I afterward  treated  my  hus- 
band successfully  for  the  same  disease,  in.  the  same  way.”  Diphtheria  is  a 
disease  which  springs  from  the  growth  of  real  fungus  on  some  of  the  mucuos 
surfaces  of  the  system,  more  generally  of  the  throat.  It  may  spread  by  con- 


1162 


MEDICAL. 


tact  of  the  mucous  surfaces  of  a diseased  with  those  of  a healthy  person,  as 
ir.  kissing,  and  is,  to  a limited  degree,  epidemic.  From  the  local  parts  aff- 
ected it  spreads  to  the  whole  body,  affecting  the  muscular  and  nervous  sys- 
tems, vitiating  the  lymph  am^  nutrient  fluids,  and  producing  paralysis.  As 
soon  as  the  bacterium  or  fungus  appears  on  the  white  patches  on  the  throat, 
it  should  no  more  be  neglected  than  a bleeding  gash  or  a broken  arm,  and 
there  is  almost  as  little  need  of  a fatal  termination  of  one  incident  as  of  the 


other. 

Allopathic  Treatment  of  Diphtheria. — One  of  the  most  successful  physicians 
in  treating  this  dreaded  disease  gives  the  following  directions  for  dealing 
with  it.  Mothers  should  accustom  themselves  and  their  children  when 
young  to  examine  the  throat  for  indications  of  diphtheria, 
and  for  this  purpose  a ‘‘tongue  depresser,”  represented  in 
accompanying  cut  is  much  more  convenient  than  a spoon, 
especially  in  the  case  of  babies  who  are  apt  to  resist  having 
anything  thrust  into  their  mouths.  With  this  the  tongue  is 
easily  drawn  down,  and  does  not  slip  from  under  it  as  it  does 
from  a spoon.  It  may  be  had  from  any  druggist  or  dealer  in 
surgical  implements.  The  first  yellowish  white  patches  that 
indicate  diphtheria  appear  on  the  tonsils  on  either  side  of 
palate,  and  mean  danger  and  demand  immediate  and  unremitted,  attention.  If 
within  reach  send  for  a physician.  Tlie  attack  is  almost  as  varied  as  is  the 
temperament  and  constitution  of  the  patient.  Sometimes  a slight  feeling  of 
illness  is  i)re valent  for  a few  days  before  the  most  serious  attack.  During  this 
period  drowsiness  and  chilliness  ai^pear,  followed  by  feverishness,  some- 
times heaclache  and  aching  limbs  ; at  other  times  the  attack  comes  on  with 
a sudden  faintness  or  an  almost  aljsolute  prostration  ; while  an  almost  univer- 
sal symptom,  and  a very  characteristic  one,  is  a slightly  swollen  and  tender 
condition  of  glands  at  the  angle  of  the  lower  jaw.  The  tonsils,  one  or  both, 
are  red  and  swollen ; sometimes  they  are  swollen  but  are  not  red.  In 
young  children  an  almost  unmistakable  sign,  which  is  very  general,  is  that 
the  redness  is  a rose  color,  while  in  older  children  or  adults  the  color  is  a 
deep  crimson  or  bright  scarlet,  over  the  whole  throat  as  seen  by  opening  the 
mouth,  the  throat  being  attacked  with  the  inflammation  so  that  it  si)Ows  it. 
These  symptoms  may  be  more  or  less  general,  or  to  a great  extent  mixed  or 
variable,  according  to  the  physical  condition  and  temperament  of  the  patient. 
After  the  appearance  of  this  peculiar  redness  there  is  more  or  less  swelling  of 
the  tonsils,  at  which  time  the  false  membrane  first  forms,  and  is  semi-trans- 
parent. It  can  readily  be  seen  by  careful  observation.  As  the  disease  wears 
on,  this  membrane,  which  is  at  first  visible  and  semi-transparent,  changes  its 
color  and  becomes  partially  opaque,  finally  becomes  thick,  dark,  and  if  blood 
is  drawn  into  it  turns  almost  black.  When  the  change  from  a darkened 
opaque  membrane  commences  to  turn  blar.k  it  is  one  of  the  first  sj’mptoms 
of  a putrid  state  of  the  disease,  and  when  this  change  takes  place  there  is 
little  or  no  help  and  decomposition  ensues.  At  this  stage  even  all  hope 
must  not  be  abandoned,  because  sometimes  bloody  matter  is  vomited,  which 
to  a great  extent  influences  the  color  of  the  membrane.  According  to  the 
strength  of  the  patient  this  membrane  is  sooner  or  later  thrown  off.  This 
exfoliation  or  peeling  off  of  the  membrane  sometimes  takes  place  in  every 
forty-eight  to  seventy-two  hours,  or  about  three  days.  At  other  times  the 
progress  of  the  disease  is  impeded  by  proper  treatment.  The  life  of  the 
membrane  is  lengthy,  and  it  may  be  from  five  to  fifteen,  and  it  has  been 
, known  not  to  peal  off  under  twenty  days,  Sometimes  the  membrane  peels 
off  in  a few  hours,  forms  again,  each  time  going  deeper  into  the  tissues.  In 
[mild  cases  the  disease  shows  itself  in  the  faces  alone.  Whatever  may  be 
the  cause  of  diphtheria,  most  medical  men  agree  upon  an  important  point : 
hat  it  comes  from  a poison  in  the  blood ; and  that  thorough  cleanliness  will 


MEDICAL. 


1168 


not  propogate  it — we  don’t  mean  the  use  of  soap  or  water — but  of  proper 
diet,  so  that  the  stomach  as  well  as  the  skin  of  the  body  shall  be  clean. 

The  time  to  begin  fighting  this  disease  is  as  soon  as  its  nature  is  recog- 
nized. AVhen  the  patches  of  false  membrane  first  make  their  appearance  on 
the  tonsils,  give  as  a cathartic,  to  a child  of  one  year,  a tea-spoon  of  Epsom 
salts  , for  five  or  six  years  old,  double  above  quantity.  Next,  mix  thoroughly 
One  dram  chlorate  of  potash, 

One  and  a half  ounces  of  lime  water,  and 

One  ounce  of  distilled  water,  and  rub  in  a mortar  until  the  chlorate  of 
potash  IS  perfectly  dissolved ; then  add  half  an  ounce  pure  glycerine.  Give 
to  a child  one  year  old  one  tea-spoonful  every  hour  in  a little  sweetened 
water.  For  a child  five  or  six  years  old,  or  an  adult,  use  two  and  a half 
ounces  of  lime  water,  and  omit  the  distilled  water,  and  give  as  a dose  a tea- 
spoonful and  a half  for  the  child  and  two  tea-spoonfuls  for  an  adult.  Do  not 
wait  for  the  cathartic  to  act  before  beginning  with  the  remedy,  but  when  it 
acts  give  the  following  every  hour,  also  alternating  with  the  above  (with 
intervals  of  half  an  hour  between  doses  of  one  or  the  other) : 

One  dram  chloride  ferri  (iron), 

One  and  a half  ounces  distilled  water. 

One  and  a half  ounces  pure  glycerine. 

JNIix  thoroughly  and  give  in  sweetened  water,  and  give  as  a dose  the 
same  quantity  as  the  first  prescription,  keeping  up  the  treatment  for  two 
days.  During  the  night,  if  the  case  is  severe,  the  patient  should  be  wakened 
to  administer  the  medicine,  particularly  if  the  sleep  is  at  all  restless  or  un- 
natural. 

For  the  first  two  days  the  disease  may  show  no  signs  of  abatement,  but 
under  this  treatment,  at  the  end  of  thirty-six  hours,  there  ought  to  be  im- 
provement. The  tendency  of  the  fever  is  to  return  on  the  third  day,  and 
if  the  disease  is  not  checked  and  the  fever  returns,  it  will  be  a fight  for  life, 
but  if  at  the  end  of  thirty-six  hours  there  is  evident  improvement,  give  the 
medicines  every  two  hours  (alternately  giving  one  or  the  other  every  hour) 
for  several  days.  For  a child  old  enough  to  use  it,  or  for  an  adult,  gargle 
well,  before  taking  medicine  or  nourishment,  with  the  following,  well  mixed : 
Fifteen  drops  carbolic  acid, 

Six  ounces  lime  water. 

These  remedies  may  be  made  up,  corked -securely,  and  kept  in  a dark 
place,  ready  for  use,  in  cases  where  a family  lives  remote  from  a drug  store, 

• i IS  time  is  an  important  element  in  treating  this  disease.  For  an  outward 
i ipplication  apply  a mixture  made  of 
A tablespoonful  of  camphor, 

A half  spoonful  of  turpentine, 

A half  spoonful  of  coal  oil. 

(For  a child  add  a tablespoon  of  sweet-oil.) 

Apply  this  to  the  throat,  high  up  under  the  ears  and  down  to  the  chest ; 
cover  with  dry  flannels  for  a few  minutes ; remove,  and  if  not  red,  apply 
mixture  again,  and  repeat  until  the  skin  is  well  reddened.  Then  apply 
slices  of  fat  salt  pork  (sewed  on  a piece  of  cloth),  letting  them  cover  well  the 
front  part  of  the  neck  and  extend,  up  under  the  ears.  The  glycerine  arrests 
putrefaction,  while  the  lime-water  dissolves  the  false  membrane.  A practice 
used  by  some  is  to  blister  the  throat  and  chest  of  the  patient  suffering  from 
diphtheria,  and  the  ulceration  which  otherwise  takes  place  in  the  inside,  will 
appear  on  the  outside  while  the  inside  becomes  free.  A remedy  which  was 
once  successfully  used  in  a severe  case,  was  to  burn  in  the  room  when 
tightly  closed,  a pan  of  half  and  half  turpentine  and  tar.  But  as  we  have 
said  before  always  coll  a physician  as  soon  as  possible,  but  work  till  he  comes, 
and  any  of  the  above  suggestions  will  do  no  harm  and  will  certainly  help. 


1164 


MEDICAL. 


Fever  and  Ague. — This,  the  true  intermittent  fever,  comes  on  with  an 
ague-fit,  which  has  three  stages — the  cold,  the  hot  and  the  sweating.  In 
the  first  stage,  the  patient  yawns,  stretches,  feel^_  weak,  has  no  appetite,  and 
does  not  wish  to  move.  The  face  and  extremities  become  pale,  the  skin 
shrinks,  and  is  covered  with  goose-flesh  ; the  patient  shakes,  and  his  teeth 
chatter.  Then,  after  a time,  these  symptoms  decline,  and  the  patient’s  fever 
comes  on  very  violently,  and  with  various  uncomfortable  sensations.  As  the 
fever  passes  off,  the  sweating  stage  comes  on,  when  the  prespiration  is  gen- 
erally profuse  ; the  body  returns  to  its  natural  temperature,  the  pains  and 
aches  vanish,  and  a feeling  of  health  comes  back,  and  generally  a voratious 
appetite.  There  is  not  much  regularity  in  the  time  of  coming  on  or  going 
off  of  the  ague-fits,  though  usually  they  are  a little  later  each  day  in  appear- 
ing, In  this  disease  the  spleen  is  very  much  oppressed  with  blood  driven  in 
from  the  surface, 'and  often  becomes  so  much  enlarged  as  to  be  plainly  felt 
by  the  hand.  This  is  a malarious  disease.  The  bowels  may  be  opened  with 
a gentle  physic,  such  as  salts  and  soda.  In  the  cold  stage,  give  hot  and 
stimulating  drinks,  use  foot-baths,  hot  bottles,  etc.,  and  try  every  expedient 
to  promote  warmth.  In  the  hot  stage,  give  cooling  drinks  and  administer 
quinine  mixture,  as  the  following ; quinine,  one  scruple  ; alcohol,  four  ounces  ; 
sulphuric  acid,  five  drops.  Mix.  Give  a teaspoonful  every  half  hour  dur- 
ing the  fever,  at  the  same  time  giving  five-drop  doses  of  veratrum  veride 
every  hour.  When  the  sweating  stage  comes  on,  stop  the  veratrum,  and  rub 
the  patient  with  dry  towels.  In  the  intermission  give  quinine.  In  mild 
cases,  other  tonics  than  quinine  often  effect  a cure.  The  nursing  of  the  pa- 
tient, and  bathing,  sweating  and  rubbing  are  the  most  important  part  of  the 
treatment,  in  this,  as  in  most  other  diseases.  In  ague  districts,  the  hot  sun 
and  evening  air  are  to  be  avoided. 

Or  take  tw' o ounces  of  gum  camphor  and  inclose  it  in  a flannel  bag  about 
four  or  five  inches  square.  Suspend  the  bag  over  the  pit  of  the  stomach  by 
the  means  of  a cord  around  the  neck,  and  a speedy  cure  will  be  effected. 
When  the  camphor  is  dissolved  the  ague  is  gone.  German  physicians,  as 
appears  from  medical  journals,  have  found  a tincture  of  the  leaves  of  the 
Eucalyptus  globulus,  or  Australian  gum-tree,  to  be  a remedy  for  intermittent 
fever.  Dr.  Lorimer  gave  it  to  fifty-three  patients,  of  whom  forty-three  were 
completely  cured.  The  ordinary  sunflower,  if  planted  around  a house,  will 
free  the  atmosphere  from  animal  and  vegetable  germs  supposed  to  contain 
the  miasma  productive  of  fever  and  ague. 

Bilious  Remittent  Fever. — This  makes  its  attack  in  a sudden  and  marked 
manner.  There  are  no  premonitory  symptoms  except,  perhaps,  a little  lan- 
guor and  debility,  slight  headach.e,  and  bad  taste  in  the  mouth,  sometimes 
some  pain  in  the  joints.  Its  commencement  is  with  a chill,  sometimes  slight, 
sometimes  severe  and  prolonged.  The  chill  may  begin  in  the  feet,  or  shoul- 
ders, or  back,  running  thence  like  streams  of  cold  water.  There  is  seldom 
more  than  this  one  chill,  the  fever  coming  on  afterward  without  the  cold 
stage.  At  certain  periods  of  the  day  there  is  greater  intensity  of  the  symp- 
toms, and  possibly  the  chill,  though  probably  not.  Between  these  periods  of 
increased  fever  the  disease  seems  to  decrease,  though  there  is  still  some  fever, 
'Unlike  fever  and  ague,  it  does  not  go  entirely  off.  During  the  hot  stage  the 
pulse  is  up  to  120,  or  still  higher,  and  there  are  pains  in  the  head,  back  and 
limbs,  of  the  most  distressing  kind.  The  tongue  is  covered  with  a yellowfish 
fur,  and  in  bad  cases,  is  parched,  brown  or  almost  black  in  the  center,  and 
red  at  the  edges.  The  appetite  is  gone,  and  there  is  a general  nausea  and 
vomiting,  and  pain  of  tenderness  in  the  upper  part  of  the  bow^els.  At  first 
there  is  costiveness,  but  afterward  the  bowels  become  loose,  and  the  evacua- 
tions are  dark  and  offensive.  This  disease  is  produced  by  malaria,  and  pre- 
vails in  hot  climates,  and  in  our  summer  and  autumn.  In  the  very  beginning 


MEDICAL. 


1165 


the  disease  maj’  he  arrested  by  an  emetic  of  lobelia  or  ipecac,  followed  by  a 
mild  cathartic.  But  if  the  disease  is  fully  developed,  sponge  the  body  all 
over  several  times  a day  with  water,  and  give  cooling  drinks,  such  as  cream 
tartar,  two  scruples,  in  a quart  of  water,  lemonade,  etc.  To  allay  the  fever, 
give  tincture  of  veratrum  viride  in  ten-drop  doses.  Cold  water  and  ice  may 
be  given  the  patient,  if  desired.  Cool  the  head,  when  it  aches,  with  cold  ap- 
plications, and  put  a mustard  poultice  on  the  stomach  if  tender.  During  the 
remissions  between  the  fever,  quinine  and  other  tonics  must  be  given,  as  in 
fever  and  ague. 

Congestive  Fever. — Another  form  of  malarious  fever  is  the  congestive. 
It  may  be  either  remittent — that  is,  abating  considerably;  or  intermittent— ■ 
that  is,  having  intervals  of  entire  freedom  from  fever.  It  may  have  intervals 
of  twenty-four  or  forty-eight  hours.  ^ The  first  attack  does  not  differ  from  that 
of  simple  intermittent,  and  may  excite  but  little  attention ; but  the  second  is 
always  severe,  producing  great  coldness,  and  a death-like  hue  to  the  face  and 
extremities.  The  advancement  of  the  disease  brings  dry,  husky,  parched, 
and  pungently  hot  skin,  followed  after  a time  by  a cold,  clammy  sensation. 
The  eyes  are  dull,  watery,  and  sometimes  glassy ; the  countenance  dull, 
sleepy,  distressed  ; the  tongue,  at  first  white,  changes  to  brown  or  black,  and 
is  usually  tremulous  ; the  breathing  is  hurried  and  difficult.  Pressure  over 
the  liver,  stomach  or  bowels,  produces  pain.  The  mind  is  often  disturbed, 
and  falls  into  lethargy  and  stupor,  or  is  delirious.  The  treatment  should  be 
nearly  the  same  as  in  bilious  remittent.  While  convalescing,  the  diet  must 
be  light  and  nutritious  at  first,  increasing  in  quantity  as  the  strength  returns. 
Use  a mild  tonic  if  the  patient  is  weak.  Exercise  out  of  doors  must  not  be 
neglected. 

Hay  Fever  (or  Asthma). — This  very  peculiar  disease  appears  generallv  as 
a severe  attack  of  catarrh,  with  asthmatic  symptoms  superadded.  The  lin- 
ing membrane  of  the  eyes,  nose,  throat  and  lungs  is  all  more  or  less  affected. 
The  patient  suffers  from  headache,  soipetimes  severe,  sneezing,  irritation  of 
the  nose  and  throat,  with  a dry,  harrassing  cough.  The  asthmatic  attacks 
come  on  gently  towards  evening,  and  last  from  one  to  three  hours,  causing 
great  distress.  Hay  fever  is  not  a very  common  complaint,  and  only  attacks 
those  persons  who,  from  some  peculiarity  of  constitution,  are  susceptible  to 
the  causes  producing  it.  It  is  supposed  to  be  caused  by  tlie  inhalation  of  the 
pungent  aroma  of  spring  grass  and  hay  ; but  the  inhalation  of  the  powder  of 
ipecacuanha  will  also  produce  it  in  certain  individuals.  In  the  United  States, 
where  the  rose  is  largely  cultivated,  similar  attacks  sometimes  occur;  it  is 
then  called  rose  fever  or  rose  catarrli.  The  best  treatment  is  change  of  air — 
to  the  sea-side,  if  possible.  ^ During  the  attacks  antispasmodics,  such  as  sal 
volatile,  ether,  or  an  emetic  if  the  patient  is  able  to  bear  it,  inhalations  of  hot 
steam  medicated  with  creosote,  carbolic  acid,  or  turpentine,  will  be  found 
useful.  When  the  attack  passes  off,  the  general  health  should  be  improved 
by  tonics,  diet,  etc- 

Typhoid  Fever. — Typhoid  fever  is  generally  preceded  by  several  days  of 
langour,  low  spirits,  and  indisposition  to  exertion.  There  is  also  usually, 
some  pain  in  the  back  and  head,  loss  of  appetite,  and  drowsiness,  though  not 
rest.  The  disease  shows  itself  by  a chill.  During  the  first  week  there  is  in- 
creased heat  of  the  surface,  frequent  pulse,  furred  tongue,  restlessness  and 
sleeplessness,  headache  and  pain  in  the  back ; sometimes  diarrhea  and  swell- 
ing of  the  belly,  and  sometimes  nausea  and  vomiting.  The  second  week  is 
oftened  distinguished  by  small,  rose-colored  spots  on  the  belly,  and  a crop  of 
little  watery  pimples  on  the  neck  and  chest,  having  the  appearance  of  mi- 
nute drops  of  sweat ; the  tongue  is  dry  and  black,  or  red  and  sore  ; the  teeth 
are  foul ; there  may  be  delirium  and  dulness  of  hearing ; and  the  symptoms 


1166 


MEDICAL. 


every  way  are  more  serious  than  during  the  first  week.  Occasionally  the 
bowels  are  at  this  period  perforated  or  ate  through  by  ulceration,  and  the 
Xoatient  suddenly  sinks.  If  the  disease  proceeds  unfavorably  into  the  third 
week,  there  is  low,  muttering  delirium,  great  exhaustion,  sliding  down  of  the 
patient  toward  the  .foot  of  the  bed,  twitching  of  the  muscles,  bleeding  from^ 
the  bowels,  and  red  and  pur^fie  spots  upon  the  skin.  If,  on  the  other  hand,’ 
the  x^atient  improves,  the  countenance  brightens  up,  the  pulse  moderates, 
the  tongue  cleans,  and  the  discharges  look  healthy.  Give  the  patient  good 
air,  and  frequent  spongings  with  water,  cold  or  tepid,  as  ’most  agreeable. 
Keep  the  bowels  in  order,  and  be  more  afraid  of  diarrhea  than  costiveness. 
Diarrhea  sliould  be  restrained  by  injections  of  cold  water.  For  costiveness, 
give  mild  injections,  made  slightly  loosening  by  castor  oil  or  common  mo- 
hisses.  To  keep  down  the  fever  and  produce  prespiration,  give  tincture  Ox 
veratrum  viride,  ten  drops  every  hour.  Ji  the  bovv^els  are  swelled,  relieve 
them  by  hot  fomentation  of  hops  and  vinegar.  If  th©  pain  in  the  head  is 
very  severe  and  constant,  let  the  hair  be  cut  short  and  the  head  bathed  fre- 
quently with  cold  water.  Give  light  nourishment,  such  as  milk,  etc. ; and  if 
the  debility  is  great,  broth  will  be  needed.  Cleanse  the  mouth  with  very 
weak  tea — old  hyson.  If  the  fever  runs  a low  course,  and  the  patient  is  very 
weak,  quinine  may  be  given  from  the  beginning.  Constant  care  and  good 
nursing  are  very  important. 

Typhus  fever  is  distinguished  from  typhoid  by  there  being  no  marked  dis- 
ease of  the  bowels  in  typhus.  The  patient  must  be  placed  in  a large,  well- 
ventilated  room,  where  drafts  may  be  avoided ; he  should  have  his  bed  so 
situated  that  the  light  from  a window  will  not  fall  upon  his  face,  as  this  is 
annoying;  all  curtains,  carpets  and  bed  hangings  should  be  at  once  re- 
moved : the  bed  should  not  be  too  soft,  and  a macintosh  or  india-rubbor 
sheet  should  be  placed  under  the  patient.  He  should  not  be  allowed  to  ex- 
tnd  himself  in  any  way,  as  it  is  absolutely  necessary  that  he  husband  all  his 
strength.  The  greatest  cleanliness  must  be  observed,  and  all  excretia  re- 
moved at  once,  and  carbolic  acid  or  chloride  of  lime  should  be  mixed  with 
them ; soiled  linen  should  be  put  in  a tub  containing  some  carbolic  acid.  Bed- 
giores  are  very  liable  to  form  on  the  back,  and  so  the  nurse  must  always  be  on 
the  lookout  and  try  to  prevent  them  by  smoothing  the  sheets,  drying  the  pa- 
tient, and  rubbing  brandy  and  and  balsam  of  Peru  over  the  part;  better  still 
to  have  a water  cushion  or  water  bed.  The  skin  may  be  sponged  down  with 
J'gpid  water,  one  part  being  sponged  at  a time,  so  as  to  prevent  any  undue 
n hill  of  the  surface  from  exposure  ;this  relieves  the  patient  and  partly  counter- 
i kcts  that  disagreeble  smell  wdiich  the  skin  gives  off  in  typhus  cases.  None 
,)ut  the  nurse  and  doctor  should  see  the  patient ; all  noises  must  be  stopped, 
and  perfect  quiet  enjoined;  at  night  there  should  be  a small  light  in  the- 
room,  but  so  placed  as  not  to  disturb  the  patient.  Milk  must  be  the  chief 
article  of  diet,  and  is  best  given  cold  ; an  egg  or  two  may  be  beaten  up  in  it, 
and  three  or  four  pints  of  milk  may  be  given  in  the  twenty-four  hours  ; this 
must  be  done  at  regular  intervals  of  two  hours,  in  equal  quantities,  special 
care  being  taken  that  it  is  given  at  night  and  in  the  early  morning,  when 
prostration  is  greatest.  Beef-tea  and  broths,  jellies,  extract  of  beef,  custards, 
etc,,  may  be  given  if  the  patient  can  take  them  and  wants  them  For  drinks 
in  the  early  stage,  lemonade,  cold  tea,  soda-water  may  be  given,  but  do  not 
let  them  have  too  much  effervescent  drinks  ; in  bad  cases  the  nurse  will  have 
enough  to  do  to  get  the  milk  down.  Stimulants  are  very  useful,  but  the 
quantity  must  vary  with  each  case,  and  be  left  to  the  doctor's  judgement. 
Brandy  is  the  best  stimulant,  and  may  be  given  with  iced  milk;  too  much 
must  not  be  given  at  first,  as  it  causes  oppression  and  inability  to  take  nu- 
trient food  ; but  afterwards,  in  the  stage  of  great  prostration,  its  proper  and 
careful  administration  may  save  the  patient’s  life. 


MEDICAL. 


1167 


Yellow  Fever. — This  disease  is  most  prevalent  in  hot  climates,  and  south- 
ern cities  of  our  country.  It  comes  in  the  latter  part  of  summer,  and  lasts 
till  frosty  weather.  The  disease  begins  with  a chill,  generally  not  very  se- 
vere. Following  the  chill,  there  is  moderate  fever,  and  some  heat  of  the 
surface ; but  rarely  rises  to  any  great  height,  and  only  continnes  to  the 
second  or  third  day,  when,  in  fatal  cases,  it  gives  place  to  coldness  of  surface, 
etc.  In  many  cases  there  is  sweating.  The  pulse  is  regular  and  often  over 
a hundred,  but  feeling  like  a bubble  under  the  finger,  which  breaks  and  van- 
ishes before  it  can  be  fairly  felt.  The  tongue  is  moist  and  white  in  the  first 
and  second  days ; but  red,  smooth,  shining  and  dry  as  the  disease  advances 
toward  tlie  close,  having  a dry,  black  streak  in  the  middle.  The  most  strik- 
ing symptoms  are  nausea  and  vomiting,  which,  in  fatal  cases,  is  very  per- 
sistent ; and  toward  the  last  a yellowish  or  greenish  matter  is  thrown  up, 
followed  by  a discharge  of  thin  black  fluid,  which  is  called  the  black  vomit. 
The  bowels  are  generally  active,  with  tenderness  in  the  upper  bowels  or 
stomach.  There  is  generally  severe  headache  and  a peculiar  expression  of 
face,  in  which  the  lips  smile,  while  the  rest  of  the  face  is  fixed  and  sad, 
sometimes  wild.  The  patient  continues  wakeful  night  and  day.  There  are 
discharges  of  blood,  often  from  the  nose,  the  gums,  the  ears,  the  stomach, 
the  bowels  and  the  urinary  passages.  First  move  the  bowels  with  some 
mild  physic,  such  as  sweet  tincture  of  rhubarb,  four  ounces  ; bicarbonate  of 
soda,  two  drachms.  Mix.  Give  a table-spoonful  once  in  three  hours  until  it 
operates.  During  the  chill,  use  all  the  usual  means  of  warming  the  body — by 
hot  bottles,  mustard  foot-bath,  warm  drinks,  draughts,  etc.  A warm  poultice 
on  the  stomach  is  useful — some  would  advise  cupping.  During  the  second, 
or  calm  stage,  give  gentle  stimulants,  warm  drinks,  and  five-drop  doses  of 
veratrum  veride,  also  quinine.  In  the  third  stage,  brandy,  quinine,  and  all 
stimulants  freely.  To  quiet  the  vomiting,  give  this  prescription;  creosote, 
twenty  drops ; spirits  of  mindererus,  six  ounces ; and  alcohol  enough  to  dis- 
solve the  ereosote.  Dose — half  an  ounce,  every  two  hours. 

Temperance,  cleanliness,  and  all  good  habits,  do  much  to  prevent  this 
disease.  A French  physician  asserts  that  liability  to  yellow  fever  is  preven- 
ted by  drinking  only  boiled  water.  He  believes  that  the  fever  is  the  exclu- 
sive result  of  using  coirupted  water,  and  that,  if  one  is  attacked  by  it,  he  may 
be  cured  in  a few  hours  by  drinking  large  quantities  of  boiled  water.  Many 
of  our  best  authorities  believe  that  infusoria  is  the  cause  of  the  disease. 

Headaches. — Pleadaches  are  always  symptoms  of  some  derangement  of 
the  system  in  some  of  its  parts,  and  should  not  be  neglected.  In  children, 
they  generally  indicate  the  approach  of  some  disease.  In  adults  they  are 
occasioned  frequently  by  a bad  circulation,  impaired  digestion,  and  by  af-  • 
fections  of  the  nerves.  For  the  first,  active  exercise  and  a slight  physic  are 
only  necessary ; for  the  second,  light  diet,  with  exercise  and  a dose  of  some 
bitter  alkali  after  meals  ; and  for  the  third,  the  same  treatment  as  for  neural- 
gia, being  careful  about  the  diet.  Sometimes  a patient  is  subject  to  rheu- 
matic headache,  which  may  be  treated  with  warm  fomentations,  stimulating 
liniment,  and  a gentle  physic.  The  patient  should  dress  warmly,  and  avoid 
exposure  to  cold  and  wet  feet 

A doctor  in  Paris  has  published  a new  remedy  for  headaches.  He  uses 
a mixture  of  ice  and  salt,  in  proportion  of  one  to  one-half,  as  a cold  mixture, 
and  this  he  applies  by  means  of  a little  purse  of  silk  gause,  with  a rim  of 
gutta  percha,  to  limited  spots  on  the  head  when  rheumatic  headaches  are 
felt.  It  gives  instantaneous  relief.  The  skin  is  subjected  to  the  process  from 
half  a minute  to  one  and  a half  minutes,  and  is  rendered  hard  and  white  by 
the  application.  2. — Put  a handful  of  salt  into  a quart  of  water,  add  one 
ounce  of  spirits  of  hartshorn  and  half  an  ounce  of  camphorated  spirits  of 
wine.  Put  them  quickly  into  a bottle,  and  cork  tightly  to  prevent  the  escape 


1168 


MEDICAL. 


of  the  spirit.  Soak  a piece  of  rag  with  the  mixture,  and  apply  it  to  the  head ; 
wet  the  rag  afresh  as  soon  as  it  is  heated. — 3.  It  is  stated  that  two  tea-spoons 
of  finely-powdered  charcoal,  drank  in  half  a tumbler  of  water,  will,  in  less 
than  fifteen  minutes,  give  relief  to  the  sick  headache  when  caused,  as  in  most 
cases  it  is,  by  superabundance  of  acid  on  the  stomach.  This  remedy  has 
been  tried  time  and  again,  and  its  efficiency  in  every  instance  has  been  sig« 
nally  satisfactory. 

Palpitation  of  Heart. — Palpitation  and  irregular  action  of  the  heart  are 
often  experienced  in  fjersons  between  the  ages  of  sixteen  and  twenty  years ; 
they  are,  or  have  generally  been,  growing  rapidly,  are  of  delicate  appearance, 
and  frequently  are  addicted  to  some  vicious  habits.  In  such  persons  the 
blood  is  thin  and  poor,  and  the  heart  and  nerves  fail  to  perform  their  proper 
function  for  want  of  support.  Derangement  of  the  stomach  often  gives  rise 
to  these  symptoms,  and  they  may  persist  for  a long  period  from  this  cause. 
A lady  who  for  years  suffered  from  violent  paroxysms  of  palpitation,  which 
many  physicians  attributed  to  organic  disease  of  the  heart,  happened  on  one 
occasion  to  take  some  medicine  which  induced  vomiting,  and  this  act  was 
followed  by  immediate  recovery.  Subsequently  whenever  she  had  the  symp- 
toms of  an  approaching  attack  of  palpitation,  she  resorted  to  an  emetic,  which 
not  only  gave  relief  to  the  paroxysms,  but  finally  relieved  her  altogether.  In 
another  case,  a patient  entered  a hospital,  suffering  severely  from  violent  ac- 
tion of  the  heart;  he  was  bled  and  blistered  and  purged," without  benefit; 
having  taken  a large  dose  of  medicine,  vomiting  ensued,  with  immediate  and 
permanent  relief.  Tea,  and  especially  green  tea,'is  very  liable  to  disturb  the 
heart’s  action  when  used  by  susceptible  persons.  And  there  is  no  doubt 
that  an  immense  number  of  persons  in  every  community  suffer  from  minor 
forms  of  heart  derangement,  due  to  the  use  of  tea.  Tobacco,  either  smoked 
or  chewed,  invariably  effects  the  heart’s  action,  and  produces  irregularity 
and  palpitation. 

Jaundice. — A disease  characterized  by  yellowness  of  the  skin  and  eyes 
and  urine,  the  discharge  from  the  bowels  being  of  a whitish  or  clay  color.  It 
is  caused  by  the  excretion  of  bile  being  prevented  and  retained  in  the  blood, 
t)r  reabsorbed  and  diffused  through  the  system.  It  depends  upon  various  and 
different  internal  causes.  Pregnant  women  frequently  suffer  from  it.  Any 
hind  of  pressure  upon  the  excretory  ducts,  such  as  by  tumors,  etc.,  or  the 
ducts  being  filled  up  with  mucus,  inspissated  bile,  or  biliary  calculus  will  oc- 
4 asion  it.  It  may  also  occur  as  a symptom  of  chronic  or  acute  inflammation 
1 f the  liver.  Fits  of  anger,  fear  or  alarm  have  sometimes  been  directly  fol- 
. Dwed  by  an  attack  of  jaundice.  And,  lastly,  certain  forms  of  it  are  produced 
occasionally  by  long  continued  hot  weather.  An  attack  of  jaundice  is  usu- 
ally preceded  by  symptoms  of  a disordered  state  of  the  liver  and  digestive 
organs,  loss  of  appetite,  irregular  or  constipated  bowels,  colic,  nausea,  head- 
ache, langour,  etc.  Sooner  or  later  the  yellow  color  begins  to  appear,  usually 
first  in  the  eye,  then  in  the  face,  then  on  the  chest,  and  finally  covering  the 
whole  body.  Sometimes  the  yellowness  is  the  first  symytom;  and  again,  as 
soon  as  the  yellow  stage  is  reached  many  of  the  preliminary  symptoms  di- 
minish. The  shades  of  yellovvuiess  are  various — from  a light  yellow  to  a deep 
orange  hue,  and,  in  some  cases,  of  a greenish  or  even  a blackish  color.  In 
the  latter  cases  it  is  known  as  ‘‘black  jaundice.”  The  greenish  or  darkish 
varieties  are  considered  most  dangerous. 

Some  kinds  of  jaundice  are  absolutely  irremediable,  while  others  will 
pass  off  without  any  treatment.  If  the  patient  be  young,  and  the  disease 
complicated  with  no  other  malady,  it  is  seldom  dangerous  ; but  in  old  people, 
where  it  continues  long,  returns  frequently,  or  is  complicated  with  dropsy  or 
other  disease,  the  condition  upon  which  it  depends  generally  leads  to  a fatal 
result.  In  general  the  obvious  treatment  is  to  promote  secretion  of  the  bile 


MEDICAL. 


1169 


and  to  favor  its  removal.  In  ordinary  cases,  a strong  infusion  of  rhubarb 
root  taken  freely,  so  as  to  keep  up  a laxative  action,  without  active  purging 
or  vomiting;  a cool,  light,  and  laxative  diet  (such  as  ripe  fruits,  mild  vege- 
tables, chicken  and  veal  iDroth,  new  eggs,  stewed  prunes  and  buttermilk) ; 
free  ventilation  and  hot  fomentations  twice  a day,  for  half  an  hour,  over 
the  liver,  incase  of  torpor  and  obstruction;  or  cold  cloths,  in  case  of  exces- 
sive production  of  bile,  will  usually  effect  a cure.  Some  prescribe  an  infu- 
sion of  thoroughwort,  drank  freely  every  day.  Cold  water  should  be  the 
oply  drink;  no  coffee,  tea,  etc.  As  much  exercise  should  be  taken  as  the 
patient  can  stand ; and  if  there  be  any  spasmodic  pain  in  the  right  side,  the 
patient  should  sit  frequently  in  a warm  bath  up  to  his  shoulders.  Any  at- 
tack of  jaundice  may  turn  out  seriously,  and  therefore  as  soon  as  the  symp- 
toms develope  themselves  a physician  should  be  sent  for.  Persons  subject 
to  jaundice  ought  to  take  as  much  active  exercise  as  possible,  and  should 
avoid  all  exhausting  food  and  stimulating  drinks. 

Water  Treatment  at  Home. — The  following  methods  oi  treatment  witn 
water,  etc.,  have  been  tested  and  we  know  whereof  we  speak  when  we  say 
they  work  like  a charm.  A thermometer  is  needed  to  test  the  temperature, 
as  the  terms  hot,  cold,  warm  and  tepid  are  so  indefinite  ; what  is  hot  to  one 
person  is  cold  to  another,  in  the  morbid  states  through  which  sick  people 
pass,  and  the  sensations  of  healthy  people  are  so  variable  that  thej’’  can  not 
be  relied  upon  to  temper  baths  by  the  touch,  for  those  with  whoui  a slight 
change  is  of  consequence.  Generally  70°  Farenheit  would  be  considered  a 
cold  bath,  85°  tepid,  95°  warm,  and  105°  hot.  The  time  of  taking  baths  is 
from  an  hour  to  two  hours  after,  and  never  within  half  an  hour  before,  eat- 
ing; and  those  who  are  taking  treatment  for  chronic  ailments,  or  for  cleanli- 
ness, should  not  bathe  when  tired ; but  when  one  is  suffering  from  acute 
disease,  and  becomes  restless  and  nervous,  a sponge-bath  or,  if  able  to  bear 
it,  a pack  or  a sitz  or  foot-bath  will  greatly  refresh  and  soothe.  From  ten  to 
twelve  in  the  morning  generally  finds  the  body  at  the  highest  point  of  vigor, 
and  as  treatments  are  most  beneficial  then,  this  proves  the  best  time  ; but  if 
this  can  not  be,  take  just  before  retiring.  In  all  baths  a cold  wet  cloth  should 
be  kept  on  head,  and  jug  of  hot  water,  with  rubber  cork,  at  feet  (except  in 
\ oot-baths) , keeping  head  cool  and  feet  warm.  When  baths  are  to  be  reduced, 
> iddcold  water  till  right  temperature  is  reached ; but  after  foot-baths  the  better 
vay  is  to  have  a pail  of  cold  water  and  take  what  is  called  a foot-plunge,  im- 
iuersing  the  feet  one  at  a time,  for  a moment  in  this  pail ; or  the  cold  water 
nay  be  poured  right  over  the  feet.  The  theory  is  this  : whenever  water  is 
ipplied  to  any  part  or  the  whole  of  the  body,  at  so  high  a temperature  as  to 
/elax  the  coats  of  the  capillaries  and  distend  them  with  blood,  it  must  be 
followed  by  an  application  at  so  low  a temperature  as  to  constringe  the  ves- 
sels and  restore  their  tone.  When  bath  is  completed  wrap  at  once  in  a dry 
sheet  and  rub  vigorously  with  a crash  towel,  as  the  patient  must  not  have  any 
chilly  sensations,  and  the  skin  should  be  left  all  aglow.  A strong  person 
may  now  take  any  exercise  wished,  so  as  to  establi^  thorough  and  perma- 
nent reaction,  but  delicate  persons  had  better  rest  for  an  hour  or  two. 

The  Sitz-Bath. — This  is  a very  pleasant  remedy  for  a great  many  ills.  To 
take,  have  a sitz-bath  tub,  w^hich  is  either  of  tin  or  wood,  something  the  shape 
of  a chair,  the  seat  being  the  tub,  and  the  back  is  hollowed  out  to  fit  the  back 
of  person ; or  one  can  be  improvised  by  taking  a large  wash-tub  and  placing 
something  under  the  back,  so  as  to  incline  it.  Patient  undresses  and  sits  in 
tub,  with  enough  water  to  nearly  fill  it  when  he  sits  down,  with  a foot- tub 
of  water  for  his  feet ; place  blankets  around  him  from  the  front,  so  as  to  well 
cover  him,  and  tuck  in  carefully  at  the  back ; place  a cold  wet  cloth  on  head. 
The  general  temperature  for  a sitz  is  92°,  for  ten  minutes  ; 88°,  five  minutes ; 
and  for  foot  water  100°.  Now  have  a pail  of  cold  water,  and  plunge  feet  one 

74 


1170 


MEDICAL. 


at  a time  in  it.  tlien  throw  a dry  sheet  around  him,  and  rub  dry  quickly  and 
vigorously  with  a crash  tow'el.  These  sitz-baths  are  good  for  colds,  diarrhea, 
piles,  female  weakness, ^ urinary  trouble,  bilious  colic,  and,  in  fact,  almost 
every  ill  that  flesh  is  heir  to. 

For  colds — a sitz-bath  as  warm  as  can  be  borne  (106°  is  good),  adding  hot 
water  as  it  cools,  so  as  to  keep  it  at  that  temperature  for  fifteen  minutes; 
wdth  a foot-bath  hot,  hotter,  hottest.  Keep  well  wrapped  up,  a cold  wet  cloth 
on  head,  rub  thoroughly  dry,  and  go  right  to  bed.  Or  some  follow  with  a 
dripping  sheet ; and  other-s  who  are  robust,  and  wish  to  break  up  a sev-ere 
cold,  take  this  liot  sitz,  tlien  a pacK  at  about  85°,  then  a dripping  sheet,  and 
diet  carefully  for  two  or  three  days,  remaining  in  bed  if  possible.  Where  it 
is  only  a slight  cold  a hot  foot-bath,  as  described  elsewliere,  suffices  ; and  this 
is  also  better  for  children  under  six  or  seven  years  of  age,  as  you  can  not 
easily  give  them  a sitz.  After  all  baths  always  wrap  a dry  sheet  around  the 
person,  rubbing  dry  with  it;  tliis  prevents  any  chilliness.  Some  use  a crash 
towel  also,  especially  for  tlie  feet. 

The  temj^erature  of  a sitz-bath,  in  different  diseases,  is  about  as  follows  : 
Colds — hot  as  cun  be  borne.  Diarrhea — cool,  about  60°  for  ten  minutes,  and 
84°,  five  minutes.  Piles — 06°,  ten  minutes  ; 90°,  five  minutes.  Female  weak- 
ness— 94°,  ten  minutes;  88°,  fen  minutes.  Profuse  menstruation — 84,  five 
minutes;  78°,  five  minutes,  and  7l'°,  five  minutes.  Urinary  troubles — 92°, 
ten  minutes,  and  88°,  five  minutes  P>iiioiis  colic  and  for  all  acute  pains — 
120°,  rapidly  raised  to  as  hot  as  can  be  ]u)rne,  bm  take  out  patient  before 
perspiring.  Chronic  pains — 104°,  three  minutes  ; 90°,  fi  ve  minutes,  and  86°, 
five  minutes.  For  malaria — 104°  at  first,  adding  liot  water  till  the  person  per- 
spires. For  retention  of  urine,  with  a desire  to  urinate — a sitz-bath  at  100°, 
ten  minutes,  and  90°,  five  minutes,  with  foot-bath  as  hot  as  can  be  borne, 
with  cold  plunge  and  a vigorous  rubbing  with  damp-salt,  repeated  for  two  or 
three  days,  will  give  perfect  relief. 

The  sitz-bath  is  of  great  importance  in  drawing  the  blood  from  the  brain, 
ind  also  relieves  congestion  of  the  abdominal  structures.  The  usual  length 
is  from  fifteen  to  thirty  minutes,  according  to  strength  of  patient,  if  an  in- 
valid, or  as  it  feels  comfortable. 

The  Foot-Bath. — This  good  old  remedy  for  colds,  etc.,  as  given  was  always 
.attended  with  the  risk  of  taking  more  cold.  This  is  easily  overcome  by  the 
very  simple  adjunct  of  a pail  of  cold  water  in  which  to  plunge  the  feet,  and 
give  bath  in  this  way  for  a cold : At  night  have  afoot-tub  of  hot  water — 110°, 
or  hotter  if  patient  will  hear  it;  and  he  can  be  dressed  or  undressed,  but  must, 
either  case,  be  well  wrapped  with  a blanket,  a cold  wet  cloth  on  head,  and 
as  w^ater  cools  add  hot.  In  ten  or  fifteen  minutes  take  out  feet  and  plunge, 
for  a moment  in  pail  of  cold  water,  then  wipe  dry  and  rub  to  a glow,  retire' 
at  once,  and  in  the  morning  all  traces  of  the  cold,  such  as  head  stopped  up, 
sore  throat,  etc.,  will  have  disappeared.  For  a little  child,  where  he  can 
not  take  the  plunge,  wet  a towel  in  cold  water,  and  take  his  feet  in  your  lap 
and  rub  with  the  wet  towel  and  then  wipe  dry.  The  plunge  or  cooling  of 
the  water  ought  to  follow  all  foot-baths,  whether  for  colds,  a tired  feeling, 
headache,  cleanliness,  etc.  Where  one  has  had  a hard  day’s  work  nothing 
is  more  restful  than  a foot-bath  as  hot  as  can  be  borne.  The  usual  foot-bath 
is  104°,  and  hot  water  added  to  keep  it  at  this  point  for  ten  or  fifteen  minutes  ; 
but  where  it  is  given  with  sitz,  no  more  hot  water  is  added.  For  chronic 
cold  feet  have  water  as  hot  as  can  be  borne  one  minute,  then  plunge  feet  in 
cold,  then  in  the  hot  a minute,  and  repeat  this  from  six  to  a dozen  times, 
ending  with  the  cold  plunge,  and  then  rub  vigorously.  For  a child,  need  not 
make  so  many  changes.  Take  this  three  times  a week  For  a sprain,  this 
treatment  is  one  of  the  best ; or  a spray  of  hot  a minute,  and  then  a cold 
spray,  tbcii  hot,  and  so  on  for  half  a dozen  times 


MEDICAL. 


1171 


What  is  called  by  some  a deep-leg  bath  is  only  an  “extension  foot-bath/’ 
and  is  of  prime  importance  in  congestion  of  the  brain,  catarrh,  and,  in  fact, 
any  head  trouble,  as  it  is  purely  a derivative  bath.  It  is  given  best  in  a tub 
twenty-eight  inches  high,  top  diameter  twenty  inches,  and  bottom  seventeen 
inches.  Have  patient  stand  in  this  with  water  to  his  hips,  of  the  tempera- 
ture of  108°  or  110°,  for  ten  minutes,  cold  wet  cloth  on  his  head,  and  a sheet 
wrapped  around  him:  step  out  and  spray  the  legs,  or  even  the  whole  body, 
with  water  of  the  temperature  of  85°,  and  gradually  reduced  to  as  cool  as 
can  be  borne ; or  a bucket  of  water  85°  can  be  thrown  over  legs,  and  then 
one  at  75°.  Where  there  is  severe  congestion  of  the  brain,  have  two  pails  of 
w^ater,  same  temperature  as  tub,  placed  on  each  side,  high  enough  to  come 
up  even  with  top  of  tub,  and  have  patient  immerse  his  arms  in  these.  The 
deep  leg-bath  can  not  be  taken  till  two  hours  after  eating,  but  the  ordinary 
foot-bath  in  an  hour  or  an  hour  and  a half.  A foot-bath  may  be  given  in 
bed  by  placing  a rubber  cloth  under  the  foot-tub,  and  it  gives  great  relief 
ofttimes. 

Fomentations. — The  method  of  giving  this  treatment  is  very  simple,  and 
yet  very  few  give  them  correctly.  First,  have  flannel  cloths,  made  of  four 
thicknesses  w'hite  shaker-flannel  (or  pieces  of  a blanket),  sewed  across  the 
center  from  corner  to  corner,  and  also  all  around  the  edges.  Different  sizes 
are  needed : one,  10  by  13  inches,  for  across  small  of  back ; one,  12  by  17 
inches,  for  over  chest,  stomach  and  bow'els ; and  one,  5 by  18  inches,  for 
down  the  spine ; then  one  for  the  throat.  And  of  course  one  can  make  any 
shapes  wdshed ; and  w^here  there  are  children,  many  different  sizes  must  be 
in  readiness  in  the  bath-room  cupboard.  Fomentations  are  good  for  all 
pains,  aches,  inflammations,  inactivity  of  stomach  and  liver,  and  are  always 
a success,  giving  relief  to  pain  at  once.  Where  the  case  is  acute,  they  should 
be  given  daily,  and  in  severe  cases  oftener — if  necessary,  continuing  for  two 
hours  at  a time.  (Have  known  them  to  be  given  for  five  consecutive  hours.) 
The  usual  length  of  time  is  twenty  or  twenty-five  minutes,  giving  four  or  five 
changes  of  five  minutes  each.  For  a child,  if  rather  weak,  give  only  two  or 
three  changes,  and  repeat  oftener,  if  for  pain,  whenever  it  returns.  The 
manner  of  treatment  is  this : Place  on  a bed  or  cot  a comforter  or  blanket. 
Let  patient  undress  entirely,  as  he  does  for  a pack,  and  lie  upon  the  blanket, 
with  a jug  of  hot  water  at  his  feet ; then  wring  the  flannel  out  of  boiling 
water — and  there  are  difi'erent  ways  of  doing  this — as,  to  be  efficacious,  the 
cloth  must  be  very  hot — as  hot  as  patient  can  bear,  and  he  can  bear  it  a great 
deal  hotter  than  he  thinks.  Of  course,  for  children,  the  one  who  gives  treat- 
ment must  be  the  judge.  One  rule  is,  what  you  can  bear  to  your  face ; or  some 
put  one  thickness  of  dry  flannel  next  skin,  and  then  the  hot  fomentation ; or 
wring  flannel  with  your  hands,  or  have  water  at  150°.  But,  for  adults,  the  best 
way  is  to  immerse  flannel  in  boiling  water  and  wring  with  a wringer — a small 
one,  fastened  to  a wooden  pail,  being  very  convenient ; or,  if  one  has  a bath- 
room, have  a sink  in  that,  and  fasten  wringer  to  it ; or  a small  tub  can  be  ar* 
ranged  wdth  feet,  so  it  can  be  moved  into  any  room  necessary.  The  next  best 
w^ay  is  to  place  in  a foot-tub  a cloth  of  two  thicknesses  of  heavy  muslin  (floui 
sack  will  do) , extending  over  the  ends  of  tub ; place  flannel  folded  in  center  oi 
it,  and  have  two  square  sticks  (two  feet  long  and  inch  and  a half  square)  readj 
to  place  at  each  end,  resting  on  top  of  flannel ; pour  on  the  boiling  water,  put  in 
sticks,and  let  one  person  take  hold  of  each,turningsticks,bringingup  the  mus* 
lin  around  it,  and  then  wring  in  opposite  direction ; or,  if  only  one  person  pre* 
pares  cloth,  have  another  dry  muslin  cloth,  and,  after  boiling  water  is  poured 
on  flannel,  lift  all  into  this  dry  cloth,  and  then  wring.  This  is  rather  severe  on 
the  hands,  but  can  be  done.  Now  put  flannels  on  part  to  be  fomented,  and 
bring  up  one  side  of  blanket,  then  the  Other,  and  then  comforter,  placing  a 
cold  wet  cloth  on  head.  (If  patient  is  sick  in  bed,  a piece  of  dry  flannel  can  be 


1172 


MEDICAL. 


placed  under  him,  if  back  is  to  be  fomented  or  if  the  upper  part  of  body,  over 
the  fomentation  cloths,  and  then,  in  either  case,  tuck  bed  clothes  well  arond 
him.)  Let  flannels  remain  five  minutes,  wring  again;  or,  if  you  have  two 
cloths,  have  second  one  ready,  and  let  it  remain  on  five  minutes,  and  so  on 
for  twenty  or  thirty  minutes.  In  chronic  diseases  repeat  this  three  or  four 
times  a week,  and  it  will  prove  to  be  one  of  the  best  treatments  to  reduce 
chronic  inflammation  and  conjestion  of  the  stomach,  liver,  bowels,  spleen, 
and  kidneys.  After  the  fomentations,  sponge  ofl’  part  fomented  with  tepid 
water,  rub  dry  with  a towel,  and  oil  wfith  sweet  or  cocoanut  oil;  and  if  for 
pain  or  soreness,  use  sweet  oil  and  ammonia,  prepared  by  dropping  ammonia 
into  sweet  oil  till  it  becomes  white  (to  a two-ounce  bottle  of  oil,  three  or  four 
drops.)  This  rubbing  with  oil  prevents  taking  cold.  In  pneumonia  nothing 
is  better  than  hot  fomentations  given  as  described.  In  rheumatic  fever,  add 
cooking-soda  to  the  water,  in  proportion  of  a table-spoon  to  a quart  of  water, 
and  foment  right  over  the  heart.  In  rheumatism,  neuralgia,  bilious  colic, 
etc.,  etc.,  fomentations  avail  much,  giving  instantaneous  relief  sometimes. 
Sickness  at  the  stomach,  a dizzy,  heavy  feeling,  and  severe  pain  in  the  head, 
Avill  all  be  relieved  at  once  by  fomenting  the  stomach.  For  a babe  w’ho  has 
severe  colic,  when  fomentations  are  applied  with  two  thicknesses  of  flannel 
next  skin,  and  with  care,  they  are  just  the  thing.  In  any  bronchial  or  lunj;; 
trouble,  these  given  over  the  lungs,  chest  and  throat,  extending  half  wat' 
around  neck,  have  been  known  to  in  time  effect  a cure  where  the  voice  had 
been  almost  lost.  The  effect  of  fomentations  is  to  bring  the  blood  to  the  sur  • 
face,  and  thus  prevent  inflammation  and  congestion.  They  can  be  taken  any 
time,  except  half  an  hour  before  or  an  hour  and  a half  after  eating. 

Female  Weaknesses. — One  of  the  best  treatments  for  leucorrhea,  ulcera- 
tion, and,  In  fact,  any  female  weakness,  is  the  hot  vaginal  enema.  The  best 
syringe  to  use  is  one  that  has  only  side  openings  in  the  metal  tube,  and  thi« 
is  an  easy  way  to  give  it:  Place  a blanket  in  the  long  bath-tub,  letting  it 
reach  down  to  the  hips  when  you  lie  down  on  your  back.  The  temperatun^ 
most  often  used  is  110°  for  ten  minutes,  and  100°  for  five  minutes ; but  it  can 
be  as  hot  as  can  be  borne,  as  what  is  unpleasant  to  the  surface  is  hardly  felt 
in  the  interior ; and  by  placing  a folded  blanket  under  the  hips,  so  as  to  raise 
them  quite  high,  and  closing  the  opening  around  the  tube  of  the  syringe  when 
inserted,  a pint  of  water  may  be  retained  for  several  minutes,  acting  as  a fo- 
mentation to  the  inner  surface ; then  eject  this  and  insert  more,  and  so 
continue  for  ten  to  twenty  minutes.  Repeat  this  three  times  a week,  and 
wear  all  the  time,  day  and  night,  a compress  made  of  three  thicknesses  of 
linen, long  enough  to  pass  well  around  the  abdomen,  wet  in  tepid  water,  with 
a dry  flannel  (about  two  thicknesses)  over  it;  re- wet  the  compress  whenever 
it  becomes  dry.  Then  there  are  the  fomentations  and  sitz-baths,  described 
elsevvRere,  vdiich  are  invaluable.  Another  special  treatment  is  the  pelvic 
compress : Take  two  or  three  thicknesses  of  linen,  about  10  bj^  12  inches, 
and  have  bed  or  cot  arranged  as  for  a pack ; have  patient  lie  down  upon  the 
blanket,  with  jug  of  hot  water  at  feet,  and  cool  cloth  on  head  ; then  wet  com- 
press in  water  at  80°  and  place  over  abdomen,  extending  w^ell  over  the  aflf- 
ected  parts ; bring  up  blanket  and  comforter,  and  in  five  minutes  wet  cloth  in 
water  at  74°,  in  three  minutes  70°,  in  five  minutes  64°,  in  three  minutes  60°, 
in  five  minutes  cold,  and  after  five  minutes  take  a towel  and  rub  dry.  This, 
repeated  three  times  a week,  is  very  strengthening.  In  pregnancy,  tepid 
sitz-baths,  the  wearing  of  the  compress  around  abdomen,  and  a diet  of  fruit, 
grains  and  vegetables,  with  oil-baths  occasionally,  if  one  is  not  fleshy,  keep 
the  system  in  a healthy  state. 

Compresses. — The  use  of  compresses  is  good  for  so  many  ailments  that  one 
should  know  how  to  apply  them.  Compress  cloths  are  made  of  two  or  three 
thicknesses  of  old  linen  (crash  towling  is  good),  and  can  be  of  whatever 


MEDICAL. 


1173 


shapes  wished.  The  difference  between  compresses  and  fomentations  are, 
the  first  is  wet,  and  wrung  so  it  will  not  drip,  in  tepid  or  cold  water,— hence 
linen  is  best;  while  the  latter  is  wet  in  hot  water.  A dry  fiannel  of  two 
thicknesses,  a little  wider  and  longer,  is  put  on  over  the  linen  compress, 
which  is  re-wet  three  times  a day  in  chronic  cases,  or  when  it  feels  un- 
comfortable. The  throat  compress,  for  chronic  trouble,  is  wet  in  tepid  water, 
and  is  worn  day-time  in  summer  and  at  night  in  winter ; and  when  taken 
off,  the  throat  is  bathed  in  cold  water  and  rubbed  till  red  with  a crash  towel. 
The  chest  compress,  in  acute  cases— such  as  pneumonia— should  be  re-vret 
every  three  hours  in  water  at  90°  ; for  chronic  lung  trouble,  re- wet  whenever 
it  feels  unpleasant.  The  abdominal  compress  is  one  of  great  value  in  feverSy 
kidney  trouble,  indigestion,  weak  back  (for  this  use  salt  in  water),  female 
weakness,  and  is  always  a relief  when  one  is  tired  and  restless.  For  acute 
or  chronic  cases,  w^ear  till  the  disease  is  conquered.  The  spinal  compress  is 
used  where  there  is  pain  in  the  spine,  with  sense  of  heat,  and  is  given  like  a 
fomentation,  only  with  the  linen  compress  : 70^'  for  five  minutes  ; 64°,  five  min- 
utes, 60°,  five  minutes  ; 54°,  five  minutes  ; 50°,  five  minutes  ; and  sometimes 
the  last  changes  are  ice-cold.  For  weak  back  caused  by  a sore  place,  use  a 
hot  flannel  compress  five  minutes  across  the  small  of  back,  then  a cold  line;i 
one,  then  hot,  and  so  on  for  half  an  hour,  with  cold  last,  rubbing  dry  with 
crash  towel.  Another  remedy  for  simply  a weak  back,  is  to  first  sponge  Muth 
hot  water  one  minute,  then  cold  one  minute,  for  two  or  three  times,  rubbing 
dry,  and  then  use  oil  and  ammonia  Compresses  are  very  much  used  after 
giving  fomentations,  and,  in  that  case,  no  sponging  off  in  cool  water  or  oiling 
is  necessary,  but  immediately  put  on  the  wet  girdle  and  cover  with  drf 
flannel. 

PoxJcs. — First,  it  is  much  more  convenient  if  you  can  have  what  is  called 
a “packing  cot”  made.  A good  proportion  for  the  frame-work  is  thirty 
inches  wide,  twenty-five  inches  high,  with  the  slats  placed  on  a slight  ele- 
vation, about  three  and  a half  inches,  at  head.  Then  a mattress  made  to  fit 
(it  can  be  straw  or  whatever  you  wish) ; on  that  place  an  oil-cloth,  then 
a comforter,  then  a blanket,  stripes  at  side,  and  a jug  of  hot  water,  with 
a rubber  cork,  at  foot.  Now  have  the  patient  undress.  Take  a sheet,  and 
with  one  hand  pleat  up  the  side  of  it,  and  with  the  other  double  it  at  mid- 
dle seam  and  dip  it  in  a pail  of  water  of  the  temperatiine  of  96°  or  100°  (you 
must  allow  five  or  six  degrees  for  cooling  off  in  wringing  out  sheet),  wring 
and  spread  over  the  blanket.  Have  patient  lie  on  his  back  in  center,  with 
hands  over  head  ; bring  one  side  of  sheet  over  the  body,  tucking  it  under  the 
hear  shoulder  and) up  close  to  the  neck,  and  then  between  the  legs ; put  arms 
down  at  side  of  body,  and  bring  other  side  of  sheet  over  the  patient  and  tuck 
in  closely  under  the  side  of  the  body  down  to  the  feet,  then  one  side  of  blanket, 
then  the  other,  then  comforter  in  same  way.  In  folding  the  blanket  and  com- 
forter around  neck  bring  it  with  one  hand,  in  shape  of  a V,  over  the  breast, 
and  then  fold  corner  up  to  the  shoulder  and  tuck  in.  This  saves  so  much  bulk 
close  up  to  the  neck.  Now  fold  a dry  sheet  across  the  middle  and  put  over 
the  patient,  tucking  it  in  well  around  the  neck,  so  that  no  air  can  get  in.  The 
reason  of  using  this  extra  sheet  is,  it  is  so  much  easier  tucked  closely  around 
the  neck  and  less  bungling  than  the  comforter.  It  is  of  great  importance  that 
all  air  he  excluded  and  the  work  done  quickly.  Place  a cloth  wet  in  cold  water 
on  the  head,  extending  over  the  eyes.  If  the  patient  does  not  warm  up 
quickly,  put  an  extra  comforter  or  blanket  over  him,  and,  if  necessary,  jugs 
of  hot  water  at  the  side ; for  unless  he  becomes  warm  soon,  the  pack  will  d^o 
no  good,  and  he  should  be  taken  out.  The  usual  length  of  a pack  is  from 
forty  minutes  to  an  hour,  for  an  adult;  for  a child,  from  ten  minutes  to 
half  an  hour — according  to  age  and  strength.  There  must  be  perfect  quiet 
in  the  room,  for  much  better  results  are  obtained  if  the  patient  will  sleep. 


MEDICAL. 


he  certainly  must  not  talk,  In  taking  him  out  unloose  comforters  and 
blankets,  and  pull  the  wet  sheet  out  quickly  and  throw  over  the  dry  sheet 
or,  in  winter,  bring  up  the  blanket.  There  are  several  different  treatments 
that  follow  a pack.  If  convenient  to  a bath-room,  one  can  slip  in  and  take 
a wash-off,  or  a spray,  or  Pail-pour.  The  latter  is  given  by  having  four 
pails  of  water — two  of  one  temperature,  90°,  poured  over  feet  and  then  two 
of  80° : then  wrap  around  him  a dry  sheet  and  take  a crash  towel  and  wipe 
dry,  taking,  in  rotation,  arms,  breast,  back,  and  legs.  Or  a dripping  sheet 
can  be  given  right  in  the  room  by  putting  an  oil-cloth  on  the  carpet ; on 
that  put  a foot-tub  of  water  at  104° ; the  patient  stands  in  this,  and  a sheet 
is  dipped  in  a pail  half  full  of  water  at  90°,  or  1 »ss,  taken  up  by  two  corners, 
squeezed  slightly,  and  put  around  him  from  the  front,  lapping  behind  and 
then  mb  him  (over  the  sheet)  vigorously  for  a minute;  re-dip  the  sheet 
(water  may  be  cooler  or  some  cold  may  be  added  to  make  it  about  6°  or  8° 
less  than  at  first),  and  put  it  around  from  behind,  and  rub  again;  then  re- 
move ,and  cover  with  a dry  sheet  and  rub  vigorously.  This  bath  is  a good 
treatment  taken  alone  as  well  as  after  a pack.  It  acts  as  a tonic,  and  a well 
person  can  take  it  himself,  Or,  if  .an  oil-bath,  sponge  or  dry  rub  is  given, 
let  him  remain  on  the  cot,  and,  for  an  oil-bath,  rub  an  arm  dry  with  a crash 
towel,  then  rub  with  oil.  and  so  on;  for  a sponge-bath,  take  a sponge  (or  a 
towel)  and  tepid  water,  and  sponge  off,  rubbing  dry  with  a crash  towel ; for 
a dry  rub,  simply  rub  dry  with  a crash  towel,  rubbing  hard  to  create  good 
circulation.  The  temperature  of  the  room  should  be  about  75°;  and  when 
the  patient  is  taken  out  of  the  pack,  let  no  cold  air  come  to  him.  The  tem- 
perature of  the  water  in  which  sheet  is  dipped,  for  adults  generally,  is  not 
so  important,  as  within  two  or  three  minutes  it  becomes  of  the  same  tem- 
perature as  the  body ; from  90°  to  100°  is  a good  range,  but  for  children  and 
delicate  persons  it  should  be  from  100°  to  110°,  so  as  not  to  shock  them. 
Packs  are  of  great  value  in  reducing  fever,  in  breaking  up  a cold,  in  malarial 
diseases,  such  as  fever  and  ague,  etc. ; and  also  in  poor  circulation  and  where 
the  system  is  weakened  and  run  down  it  acts  as  a tonic.  In  the  spring  when 
the  system  needs  building  un,  just  try  a few  packs  instead  of  the  sulphur 
and  molases  of  old  times. 

Oil-ruhs. — This  treatment  is  one  that  gives  perfect  satisfaction  to  all  who 
try  it ; indeed,  too  much  praise  can  not  be  given  to  it.  To  see  the  effects  of 
oil-rubs,  one  would  say  as  did  the  Queen  of  Sheba,  ‘‘The  half  has  not  been 
told.”  To  give  it,  have  the  patient  undress,  with  a sheet  or  blanket  around 
him,  sitting  up  or  lying  down;  take  either  cocoanut,  pure  olive  or  sweet 
oil,  whichever  can  be  obtained  the  purest;  pour  some  in  palm  of  hand,  rub 
hands  together,  then  take  an  arm  and  rub  in  the  oil  thoroughly,  rubbing  up 
and  down,  using  more  oil  if  necessary  (as  much  as  skin  will  absorb) ; cover 
this  arm ; take  more  oil  and  rub  the  other  arm,  then  breast,  back  and  legs ; 
cover  each  part  wdien  finished.  Repeat  from  three  to  six  times  a week,  as 
the  case  may  demand.  One  who  is  greatly  reduced  can  take  with  benefit 
six  a week.  Once  a week  take  a wash-off,  or  an  acid  sponge,  by  putting 
a scant  tea-cup  vinegar  in  a gallon  of  warm  water,  and  using  a sponge  or 
towel,  then  rubbing  dry.  This  is  especially  good  for  consumptives,  dyspep- 
tics, and  persons  who,  from  any  cause,  have  been  reduced  in  flesh  and 
strength.  It  acts  as  a tonic, — thus  it  is  of  twofold  value  where  one  is  re- 
covering from  sickness,  as  it  is  also  nutritive  to  them,  and  to  those  who 
are  cold-blooded  it  warms  up  the  system.  So  for  children  it  is  especially 
good  in  winter,  as  an  oil-rub  at  night  will  assist  in  keeping  them  warm; 
so,  in  the  day-time,  if  going  on  a long  drive,  or  to  be  exposed  to  the  cold 
for  awhile,  it  is  a good  “send-off.”  For  colds  it  works  to  a charm,  for 
young  or  old,  acting  as  a preventive,  as  it  builds  up  the  system,  and  renders 
it  less  liable  to  disease.  Or  when  a cold  is  taken,  it  is  easily  broken  up 


MEDICAL. 


1175 


by  a pack,  followed  immediately  by  an  oil-rub,  and  the  next  two  nights 
simply  oil-rubs,  a hot  foot-bath,  108°  then  cooled  down,  and  followed  by 
a complete  oil-rub.  Where  adults  or  children  are  delicate,  the  oil-rub  gives 
good,  healthy  flesh ; and  where  it  is  given  as  described,*  the  result  is  perfect. 
For  constipation  it  is  invaluable,  working  a perfect  cure  after  a month  or  two. 
It  can  be  given  at  any  time,  without  reference  to  eatkig,  as  it  is  a nutritive 
bath.  The  following  description — given  by  Dr.  James  H.  Jackson  of  “Our 
Home  on  the  Hillside,”  at  Dansville,  N.  Y.,  where  these  rubs  have  been  used 
many  years — tells  in  forcible  language  their  use  and  value  : “Oil-baths  are 
given  by  rubbing  the  body  all  over  with  some  kind  of  oil.  It  is  not  necessary 
to  use  more  than  two  or  three  table-spoonfuls  at  one  bath,  but  it  should  be 
rubbed  in  thoroughly,  especially  over  the  abdomen,  inside  the  arms  and 
thighs,  where  it  can  be  absorbed  to  the  best  advantage.  They  may  be  taken 
at  any  time  during  the  day.  It  is  as  well,  perhaps,  to  take  them  before  going 
to  bed  as  at  any  other  time.  They  may  be  given  to  meet  any  one  of  three 
conditions : 

“1st.  To  supply  waste  of  tissue  and  to  introduce  a very  inportant  ele- 
ment of  nutrition  into  the  body.  Many  persons  will  absorb  oil  to  advantage 
nutritively,  who  can  neither  take  it  nor  fats  by  the  stomach 'without  great 
distress  or  disturbance . 

“2d.  To  improve  the  functions  of  the  skin,  which  may  become  dry  and 
hard,  and  lacks  proper  circulation  in  its  capillaries. 

“3d.  To  allay  nervous  irritation  and  reduce  fever.  Persons  in  parox- 
ysms of  fever,  in  typhoid,  measles  and  scarlatina  especially,  may  be  freely 
anointed  with  oil  to  great  advantage.  In  my  practice  I have  often  seen  the 
temperature  of  the  body,  when  in  a febrile  state,  reduced  from  one  to  three 
degrees  by  an  administration  of  an  oil-bath.  I like  the  cocoanut  oil  better 
than  the  olive,  it  is  more  likely  to  be  genuine;  it  penetrates  better,  it  does 
not  turn  rancid  on  the  body,  and  I think  it  furnishes  more  nutriment  to  the 
body.  Olive  oils,  as  a general  thing,  are  impure.”  From  the  above  you  can 
see  it  is  “multum  in  parvo,”  as  it  can  really  be  depended  upon  for  use  in 
almost  every  thing  the  flesh  is  heir  to ; and  the  great  beauty  of  it  is,  any  one 
can  give  it  without  feeling  fear  as  to  the  results.  It  can  do  no  harm  unless 
the  patient  is  very  fleshy ; then  it  is  not  needed.  It  is  so  easily  given  that  a 
child  can  give  it  to  younger  children.  Its  use  in  reducing  fever  is  of  untold 
value.  A lady, who  had  had  extended  experience  in  using  it,  says  ; “I  have 
known  an  oil-bath  given  a patient,  in  scarlet  fever,  with  fever  raging,  and 
in  a little  while  the  temperature  was  reduced,  and  he  was  quietly  sleeping.” 

For  liPle  babies  it  is  really  a blessing,  as  it  nourishes  and  strengthens 
them ; and  given  every  other  day,  with  a sponge-off  in  warm  water  the  inter- 
vening day,  an  infant  will  do  much  better  than  when  bathed  daily. 

It  is  also  a great  help  in  supplying  nourishment  where  the  mother  has 
not  sufficient  nurse,  and  aids,  too,  in  preventing  the  little  colds,  snuffles, 
colic,  etc.,  that  hover  around  the  little  one  the  first  two  or  three  months, 
needing  our  most  watchful  care  to  ward  them  off.  Then,  where  there  is  any 
constipation,  it  is  a perfect  panacea — so  much  better  than  physic  or  enemas 
It  acts  as  a preventive  to  croup  ; and  when  a child  is  weakened  by  that  dread 
disease,  cholera  infantum,  nothing  so  helps  to  give  tone  to  the  system  as 
the  oil-rub.  It  certainly  is  the  best  of  baby  medicines,  a baby  can  “grow  up” 
without  any  other  remedy. 

Diphtheria. — This  dreaded  disease  needs  all  the  knowledge  one  can  pos- 
sibly obtain,  so  we  give  below  the  hygienic  treatment  as  prescribed  by  Dr. 
J.  H.  Jackson,  of  “Our  Home,”  Dansville,  N.  Y.  First,  he  says,  to  tell  a 
genuine  case,  make  a swab  and  apply  to  patches  on  the  throat ; common 
ulcers  will  rub  off,  but  diphtheritic  patches  will  not.  A good  gargle  is  to 
make  a solution,  as  strong  as  will  dissolve,  of  chlorate  of  potassa,  and  bottle 


1176 


MEDICAL. 


for  use.  When  needed,  take  in  proportion  to  one-half  solution  and  one-half 
soft  water,  and  one-half  grain  permanganate  of  potash  to  ounce  of  mix- 
ture. For  a stronger  gargle,  take  two-thirds  solution  to  one-third  water,  and 
one-half  grain  permanganate  of  potash  to  ounce  of  mixture.  In  case  of  diph- 
theria, keep  the  room  at  80'^'',  and  have  boiler  of  water  on  stove,  or  hang  wet 
sheets  in  room,  in  order  to  keep  the  room  saturated  with  warm  vapor,  and 
also  have  fresh  air  in  the  room.  His  treatment  is  as  follows : 

'‘AVhen  the  person  is  attacked,  in  cases  where  the  epidemic  is  present  in 
the  vicinity,  with  a sore  throat,  pain  in  the  head,  in  limbs,  in  back— in 
other  words,  the  symptoms  being  ^mry  much  like  those  of  a hard  cold — I be- 
gin by  putting  the  person  at  once  into  a hot  bath,  covering  him  up  and  giving 
him  warm  water  to  drink,  so  as  to  produce  a thorough  sweating,  the  object 
being  to  tight  febrile  conditions  and  establish  and  aid  processes  for  throwing 
oft’ the  disease  by  means  of  the  skin,  bowels,  etc.  This  sweating  is  all  the 
mor.e  necessary,  in  most  cases,  because  of  the  inattention  which  is  usually 
given  to  keep  the  pores  of  the  skin  open,  and  it  will  relieve  the  fever,  if  not 
at* once,  as  a secondary  result.  After  the  person  has  been  in  a state  of  pers- 
piration for  some  time,  I take  him  immediately  from  the  hot  bath  and  give 
him  a thorough  washing  with  a sheet  wet  in  water  at  80  degrees,  in  a warm 
room,  and  after  wiping  see  that  he  is  sent  to  bed  with  a cool  cloth  upon  the 
head,  and  in  many  cases  an  abdominal  compress  wet  in  cool  water,  which 
shall  cover  entirely  the  abdomen,  with  a dry  flannel  cloth  over  it.  In  all  feb- 
rile conditions  of  the  body  this  application  of  the  cool  abdominal  compress 
is  of  great  value,  because  it  is  in  the  abdomen  that  the  vital  processes  are 
carried  on  to  large  extent,  the  amount  of  blood  existing  there  being  much 
larger  in  proportion  to  the  surface  of  the  body  than  in  any  other  portion  of 
+he  frame  except  the  brain.  In  order  to  keep  the  temperature  of  the  body 
down  below  fever  heat,  that  the  fermentative  process  may  not  go  on,  or  be 
held  in  check  as  far  as  possible,  it  is  necessary  to  use  with  caution  all  the 
best  means  for  the  purpose,  and  among  them  I certainly  esteem  the  abdom- 
inal compress  as  of  great  use.  After  this,  and  in  addition  to  it,  the  febrile 
conditions  may  be  met  by  means  of  wet  sheet  packing  or  sponging  frequently 
as  may  be  necessary  to  keep  the  temperature  to  its  normal  standard.  Of 
course,  if  the  fever  is  not  high,  it  will  not  be  necessary  to  make  strenuous 
efforts  in  this  respect ; but  if  it  is,  it  should  be  fought  sharply.  The  great 
need  is  to  make  the  applications  early  and  vigorously  in  the  outset  of  the 
disease,  because  the  eft’ects  to  be  produced  are  needed  then  more  than  at 
any  other  time,  and  because  in  the  later  days  or  stages  of  the  disease  at- 
tention mils'  be  directed  to  measures_ which  support  the  strength  of  the  body 
rather  than  those  which,  while  reducing  fever,  tax  its  vitality  to  some  degree. 
At  any  rate  watch  the  temperature  carefully,  and  keep  it  down.  Great  at- 
tention should  be  paid  to  nourishing  the  patient,  and  the  best  article  for 
this  purpose,  both  for  adults  and  children,  is  milk,  taken  cool  or  warm,  as 
the  patient  may  fancy,  and  at  as  frequent  times  and  in  as  large  quantities 
as  can  be  borne.  To  this  may  be  added,  later  in  the  disease,  nutritious 
soups  or  the  juice  of  meats;  but  under  no  circumstances,  except  toward  the 
very  last  stages  and  in  the  septic  form,  are  alcoholic  stimulants  admissible, 
iu  my  judgement.  The  bowels  should  be  kept  open  and  the  kidneys  active, 
and  for  this  purpose  enemas  should  be  given  to  effect  the  former  if  sluggish, 
and  sitz-baths  occasionaly — perhaps  one  each  day — for  fifteen  minutes,  at  a 
temperature  of  85  or  90  degrees,  to  stimulate  the  latter.  The  feet  must  al- 
ways be  kept  warm  and  the  head  cool,  and  in  case  there  is  anj^  tendency  to 
collapse  or  lowering  of  temperature  below  the  normal  standard,  heat  must  be 
applied  to  the  body  by  means  of  warm  blankets  and  hot  water  bags  and  jugs. 

‘Hn  addition  to  this  general  treatment,  treat  the  throat  direct  with  moist 
heat,  as  that  is  the  great  prompter  of  suppuration.  Hence,  as  soon  as  the 
membranes  are  formed,  or  as  soon  as  it  is  known  that  the  disease  is  diph- 


MEDICAL. 


1177 


theria,  the  patient  should  be  put  upon  the  inhalation  of  steam  as  hot  as  can 
be  borne,  and  as  often  as  may  be  wise,  considering  the  strength  of  the  pa- 
tient and  the  severity  of  the  disease.  Tlie  inhalations  ordinarily  should  be 
pursued  for  the  first  twenty-four  or  forty-eight  hours,  as  often  as  once  in  each 
half  hour,  and  continued  for  fifteen  minutec,  and  the  patient  should  be  al- 
lowed only  three  or  four  hours  of  sleep  each  day  during  this  period,  because 
the  coustant  presence  of  the  vapor  is  necessary  to  hurry  up  the  suppurative 
process,  and  the  earlier  this  can  be  produced  the  sooner  the  case  will  recover. 
The  inhalations  may  be  made  by  means  of  the  common  steam  atomizer,  now 
sold  by  all  dealers  in  surgical  and  medical  instruments,  and  which  may  be 
used  without  filling  the  medicine  cup  ordinarily,  the  steam  being  taken  di- 
rect from  the  boiler  through  the  mouth  piece.  If  this  is  not  convenient,  a 
tea-  kettle  with  a long  conducting  spout,  which  shall  carry  the  steam  to  the 
patient,  or  any  apparatus  which  Mull  answer  this  same  purpose,  can  be  used. 
The  air  of  the  room  may  be  saturated  with  warm  vapor  by  dropping  hot 
stones  in  a pail  of  water  or  of  lime  water.  Care  must  be  taken  in  any  event 
to  see  that  the  steam  is  not  too  hoi , and  at  the  same  time  that  the  heat  is  as 
great  as  can  be  well  borne.  This  process  may  be  aided  by  application  of 
warm  poultices  to  the  neck.  A long,  narrow  bag  may  be  filled  with  hot  mush 
or  any  substance  which  will  retain  moisture  and  heat  well, and  neck  enveloped 
in  it,  a dry  flannel  being  put  over,  and  changed  as  often  as  is  necessary  i]| 
order  to  maintain  the  warmth.  Thus  moist  heat  on  the  inside  and  moisi 
. heat  on  the  outside  aids  to  establish  the  necessary  process  of  suppuration , 
This  constant  inhalation  should  be  kept  up  until  the  membranes  cease  tj 
spread,  and  those  which  are  formed  become  well  marked  in  outline,  anr'i 
grow  yellowish  or  a dirty  gray  in  color,  and  seem  to  be  shriveled  or  wrinkled, 
after  which,  generally  about  the  third  day,  the  inhalations  may  be  decrease!  1 
in  frequency,  but  still  should  be  kept  up  as  often  as  every  hour  in  the  day 
time,  the  patient  being  allowed  six  or  eight  hours’  sleep  at  night,  until  the 
membranes  are  thrown  off  and  the  secretion  of  pus  upon  the  mucous  mem’ 

■ brane  of  the  mouth  entirely  stopped.  The  constant  inhalation  of  steam 
through  the  atomizer,  which  generates  it  with  some  force,  furnishes  a meana 
of  washing  the  parts  pretty  thoroughly.” 

The  Vapor-Bath  is  one  of  the  most  efficacious  remedies  if  taken  when  a; 
cold  is  first  realized.  It  can  always  be  very  readily  and  successfully  admin- 
istered with  such  conveniences  as  every  family  possesses.  Place  the  patient 
in  a cane-seat  chair,  having  first  taken  the  precaution  to  spread  over  the  seat 
a dry  towel.  Surround  the  patient  and  the  chair  first  with  a woolen  blanket, 
and  then  with  two  or  three  comfortables,  drawing  the  blanket  close  around 
his  neck,  and  allowing  them  to  trail  upon  the  floor  so  as  to  exclude  the  air  as 
perfectly  as  possible.  Now  place  under  the  chair  a large  pan  or  pail  contain- 
ing two  or  three  quarts  of  boiling  water.  Let  the  blankets  fall  (piickly,  so  as 
to  retain  the  rising  vapor.  After  a minute  or  two,  raise  the  blankets  a little 
at  one  side,  and  carefully  place  in  the  vessel  a very  hot  brick  or  stone,  drop- 
ping the  blankets  again  as  soon  as  possible,  to  avoid  the  admission  of  cold 
air.  Before  the  first  brick  or  stone  has  cooled,  add  another,  and  so  continue 
until  the  patient  perspires  freely.  The  amount  of  perspiration  must  be  judged 
by  the  face  and  forehead,  as  much  of  the  moisture  on  the  skin  l)eneath  the 
blankets  is  condensed  steam. 

Should  the  bath  at  any  time  become  too  hot,  a little  air  maybe  admitted 
by  raising  the  bottom  of  the  blankets  a little,  being  careful  to  avoid  (diilling 
the  patient  in  so  doing.  The  bath  should  seldom  be  continued  more  than 
half  an  hour,  and  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes  will  usually  accomplish  all  that 
is  desired  by  the  bath.  If  too  long  continued,  it  induces  faintness.  A too 
high  temperature  will  be  indicated  by  a strongly  accelei-ated  pulse,  throbbing 
of  the  temples,  flushed  face,  and  headache.  The  head  should  be  kept  cool 


1178 


MEDICAL. 


by  a compress  wet  in  cool  water  and  often  changed.  The  temperature  of  the 
bath  should  be  from  100*^' to  115^.  Unpleasant  effects  are  sometimes  produced 
at  120^’,  After  this  bath,  apply  a tepid  spray^  rubbing,  a wet-sheet,  pail 
douche,  or  Jail  bath.  No  time  should  be  allowed  to  elapse  after  the  blankets 
are  removed  before  the  concluding  bath  is  applied  or  the  patient  will  chill. 
He  should  not  be  allowed  to  become  chilly  by  exposure  to  cool  air  before  the 
application  of  the  spray,  douche,  or  bath,  which  should  be  followed  by  vig- 
orous rubbing.*  For  “breaking  up  a cold,”  “breaking  chills,”  relieving 
rheumatism,  soreness  of  the  muscles  from  over-exertion  and  relaxing  stiff- 
ened joints,  this  is  a valnable  agent.  It  may  also  be  used  to  advantage  in 
chronic  diseases  in  which  there  is  inactivity  ot  the  skin,  liver,  or  kidneys, 
being  a powerfu.  diaphoretic ; but  great  care  must  be  exercised  to  avoid  ex- 
cessive use.  as  too  frequent  repetitions  of  the  bath  produce  debility.  In  in- 
stitutions where  the  bath  is  in  daily  requisition,,  a permanent  arrangement 
for  giving  the  bath  is  usually  employed.  It  generally  consists  of  a box  in 
which  the  patient  sits  upon  a stool,  his  head  being  alowed  to  remain  outside 
by  a suitable  opening.  A wet  towel  is  placed  around  the  neck  to  prevent  the 
steam  from  rising  about  the  head.  Steam  may  be  generated  by  boiling  water 
in  the  box  with  a large  spirit-lamp  or  a gas-burner,  or  it  may  be  conducted 
into  the  box  by  a rubber  tube  connected  with  a tight  boiler. 


ACCIDENTS  AND  SUDDEN  SICKNESS. 


1179 


A.CCIDEIS1TS  AISTE  SUEEElSr  SICKNESS. 


It  is  no  longer  considered  a mark  of  the  highest  type  of  the  feminine  mind 
to  faint  away  at  the  smallest  fright,  and  to  sink  into  helplessness  at  the  first 
appearance  of  danger.  Indeed,  self-possession  in  emergencies  is  evidenee 
of  a clear  brain,  which,  at  the  critical  moment,  asserts  its  supremacy  over 
physical  weakness,  and  takes  command  of  the  demoralized  forces  ; besides, 
fright  and  confusion  are  a confession  of  ignorance  as  well  as  want  of  self- 
control.  Those  who  know  exactly  v hat  to  do  in  emergencies  rarely  become 
panic-stricken.  And  it  is  particularly  important  for  women,  who  are,  doubt- 
less, constitutionally  more  timid  than  men,  to  fortify  themselves  against 
danger,  by  learning  what  to  do  in  such  accidents  and  emergencies  as  are 
likely  to  occur  in  the  life  of  every  one.  It  would  prove  a rare  case,  indeed, 
if  sucli  knowledge  did  not,  at  least  once  in  a life-time,  enable  the  possessor 
of  It  to  save  a valuable  life,  perhaps  one  infinitely  dearer  to  her  than  her 
own.  Of  course,  within  the  limits  of  such  an  article  as  is  permissible  here, 
only  a few  hints  can  be  given,  rather  to  suggest  further  investigation  than  to 
be  a complete  guide. 


A Life-Preserver. — A felt  or  silk  hat,  held  so  has  to  keep  the  crown  full  or 
air,  will  sustain  a person  above  water  for  a great  length  of  time. 

Panics. — If  in  a public  hall  in  a panic,  keep  your  seat;  even  in  case  of 
fire  the  chances  of  life  is  greater  if  free  from  the  crowd. 

Stings  of  Insects — Are  relieved  by  the  application  of  ammonia  or  com- 
mon salt,  well  rubbed  in,  or  a slice  of  an  onion,  to  the  part. 

Runaways. — In  all  runaways  it  is  safer  to  remain  in  the  vehicle,  and  to 
stop  with  it,  than  to  jump  while  the  horse  is  running.  The  vehicle  helps  to 
break  the  shock  of  the  final  stop. 

Poisonous  Wounds. — Wounds  by  w^hich  poison  has  been  carried  into  the 
system,  require  instant  treatment.  The  wound  must  be  burned  out  by  a 
stick  of  lunar  caustic,  or  by  inserting  a large,  red-hot  iron. 


1180 


ACCIDENTS  AND  SUDDEN  SICKNESS. 


Burns  by  Alkalies,  such  as  lime,  caustic  potash,  soda,  ammonia,  etc.,  are 
stopped  in  their  progress  by  applying  vinegar,  lemon-juice,  or  other  dilute 
acid  ; they  must  then  be  treated  like  other  burns. 

Burns  from  Acids,  such  as  oil  of  vitroil  and  aqua  fortis,  may  be  checked 
by  the  free  application  of  water  or  handfuls  of  moist  earth.  The  first  dilutes 
the  acid,  and  the  second  contains  alkali  enough  to  neutralize  the  acid. 

Choking. — A piece  of  food  lodged  in  the  throat  may  sometimes  be  pushed 
down  with  the  finger,  or  removed  with  a hair-pin  quickly  straightened  and 
hooked  at  the  end,  or  by  two  or  three  vigorous  blows  on  the  back  between 
the  shoulders. 

Fracture. — Send  at  once  for  a Physician,  and  simply  make  the  patient  as 
comfortable  as  possible.  If  he  is  to  be  conveyed  to  some  distance,  the  frac- 
tured part  should  be  supported  in  its  natural  position  by  handkerchiefs 
loosely  tied.  Allow  no  more  handling  than  is  absolutely  necessary. 

Chilblains. — Are  the  result  of  a chilling  of  the  part.  To  cure,  keep  away 
from  the  fire,  and  at  night,  before  going  to  bed,  wash  in  cold  water,  or  rub  in 
snow,  and  apply  the  compound  resin  ointment,  made  by  all  druggists,  with 
a little  oil  of  turpentine  added  to  it. 

Swallowing  Pieces  of  Broken  Glass,  Pins,  etc. — By  no  means  take  a pur- 
gative. Rather  partake  freely  of  suet  pudding,  or  any  solid  farinaceous  food, 
and  it  is  possible  that  both  may  pass  away  together  without  injury  being 
done. 

Bites  of  Serpents. — When  bitten  by  a rattlesnake  or  other  poisonous  ser- 
pent, pinch  the  skin,  and,  if  the  wound  can  be  reached,  suck  out  all  the  blood 
possible ; if  the  skin  of  the  lips  and  mouth  is  sound,  no  harm  will  be  done. 
Whiskey  or  brandy  should,  however,  be  administered  freely,  to  intoxication. 

Fainting. — Debility  of  the  nervous  system  favors  fainting.  The  head 
should  be  kept  low ; and  if  the  patient  faints  in  a chair,  the  simplest  treat- 
ment is  to  grasp  the  back  of  it  and  depress  it  until  the  floor  is  reached,  while 
another  holds  the  knees  so  as  to  prevent  slipping  off  the  side.  The  patient 
will  usually  recover  by  the  time  the  head  has  reached  the  floor. 

Shock  from  Cold  Water. — Prostration  from  drinking  or  bathing  in  cold 
water  while  exhausted  by  heat  or  exercise  should  be  treated  as  described  for 
shock  from  other  causes.  Cold  water  should  be  taken  in  small  quantities 
when  the  body  is  heated  and  exhausted,  and  a cold  bath  is  often  fatal  under 
such  circumstances. 

Epileptic  Fits  — In  these  there  is  nothing  which  a by-stander  or  friend 
nan  do,  except  to  keep  out  of  reach  such  articles  as  may  injure  the  patient 
during  the  convulsive  movements  ; to  loosen  the  clothing  about  the  neck  and 
throat,  and  to  assist  to  some  place  of  safety  when  the  semi-consious  state  re- 
turns. Other  convulsions  are  treated  in  the  same  manner. 

Lightning. — If  the  person  shows  no  signs  of  life,  strip  and  dash  the  body 
wdth  cold  water,  dry  and  place  in  bed  with  bottles  of  hot  water  at  the  pit  of 
the  stomach  and  extremities,  keeping  up  artificial  respiration  until  the  nat- 
ural breathing  is  restored ; a tea-spoon  of  brandy  in  a table-spoon  of  water- 
may  be  given  every  few  minutes.  Burns  from  lightning  should  be  treated 
like  burns  froiWany  other  cause. 

Breaking  Through  Ice. — In  assisting  persons  who  have  oroken  through 
ice,  get  a long  pole,  or  stick,  or  board,  to  distribute  the  weight  over  a greater 
surface  of  ice.  In  attempting  to  get  out  of  water  upon  the  ice,  after  having 
fallen  in,  the  best  way  is  to  approach  it  sidewise,  and  roll  out  rather  than 
to  attempt  to  raise  the  body  up  by  the  arms  alone,  as  the  weight  is  more 
widely  distributed. 


ACCIDENTS  AND  SUDDEN  SICKNESS, 


1181 


Hanging. — Death  is  from  the  same  cause  as  in  drowning.  Cut  down  the 
body  without  allowing  it  to  fall,  place  on  face,  press  hack  tongue  with  finger 
to  allow  any  accumulation  to  escape  from  the  mouth,  place  on  the  back,  and 
treat  as  directed  for  the  drowned.  If  bod}’  is  still  warm  after  the  removal 
of  clothing,  stand  oft'  six  feet  and  dash  several  times  with  a bowl  of  cold 
water,  the  fare,  neck  and  chest. 

Foreign  Body  in  Nostril. — Children  often  push  foreign  bodies  up  the  nos- 
tril. To  remove  it,  make  the  child  draw  a long  breath,  and  then,  closing  the 
other  nostril  with  the  finger,  and  the  mouth  with  the  hand,  expel  the  air  from 
lungs  by  a sharp  blow  on  the  back.  If  it  can  not  be  removed  in  this  way, 
compress  the  nostril  above  it  to  prevent  its  going  back  any  further,  and  hook 
it  out  with  the  bent  end  of  a wire  or  bodkin.  If  this  fails,  call  a surgeon. 

Burnbig- Houses  — When  a house  is  on  fire,  close  all  the  doors  and  pre- 
vent currents  of  air.  If  the  fire  could  be  entirely  shut  in,  it  would  smother 
and  die  out.  The  check  will  give  time  to  get  help,  or,  at  least,  to  remove 
furniture  and  make  all  lives  secure.  If  up-stairs  \rhen  the  stairway  below  is 
on  fire,  tear  clothing  to  iriake  cord  to  let  yourself  down  by.  If  a room  is  full 
of  smoke  and  flame,  crawl  on  the  floor,  as  the  lower  air  is  the  cooler  and  more 
free  from  smoke. 

Freezing. — Keep  the  frozen  person  or  part  away  fr’^m  the  heat.  If  th(i 
person  is  insensible,  take  him  to  cool  room,  remove  clothing,  rub  with  snow 
or  cloths  wrung  out  of  ice- water.  The  cold  friction  should  be  n;ept  up  for 
some  time ; and  wdien  the  frozen  parts  show  signs  of  life,  fhe  patient  should 
be  carefully  dried  and  put  into  a cold  bed  in  a cold  room,  and  artificial  res- 
piration used  until  the  natural  is  restored ; and  then  brandy,  beef-tea,  and 
ginger-tea  administered.  The  patient  must  be  brought  l)y  degrees  into  tin  • 
warmer  air.  Parts  frozen  should  be  treated  by  the  same  rule. 

Bites  of  Dogs — The  only  safe  remedy  in  case  of  a bite  from  a dog  suE'- 
pected  of  madness,  is  to  burn  out  the  wound  thoroughly  with  a red-hot  iron , 
or  with  lunar  caustic,  for  fully  eight  seconds,  so  as  to  destroy  the  entire  sur- 
face of  the  w’ound.  Do  this  as  soon  as  possible,  for  no  time  is  to  be  lost.  Cfl 
course  it  wil  be  expected  that  the  parts  touched  v/ith  the  caustic  wull  tura 
black.  If,  unfortunately,  it  should  chance  that  any  one  is  bitten  by  a dog 
that  is  said  to  be  mad,  it  is  worth  -while  to  chain  the  animal  up,  instead  of 
shooting  it  instantly,  for  if  it  should  turn  out  that  it  is  not  mad — and  a fals( » 
alarm  is  frequently  raised — the  relief  to  the  minds  of  all  concerned  is  indes 
crib  able. 

Foreign  Bodies  in  the  Ear. — Take  the  head  of  the  child  between  the  knees, 
face  downward,  and  insert  a stream  of  warm  water  into  the  ear,  holding  the 
nozzle  of  the  syringe  outside,  so  as  to  allow  the  foreign  body  to  come  out  with 
the  water.  Probing  with  any  substance  whatever  is  very  dangerous,  and 
may  inflict  permanent  injury.  When  the  above  plan  does  not  succeed,  call 
a surgeon.  Kill  insects  that  get  into  the  ear  by  pouring  in  sweet-oil  or  gly- 
cerine. w’hich  drowns  and  brings  tliem  to  the  surface.  In  the  Eye  the  particle 
almost  invariably  lodges  under  the  upper  lid,  adhering  to  it.  If  that  lid  is 
grasped  by  the  thumb  and  finger,  drawn  outward  and  then  downward,  and 
then  released,  the  lashes  of  the  lower  lid  act  as  brush,  ami  sweep  off  the 
intruder.  If,  however,  it  adheres  to  tlie  eye-ball,  it  may  be  removed 
bv  roiling  the  upper  lid  over  a knitting  needle,  and  holding  it  there 
in  such  a position  as  to  expose  the  surface,  when  the  particle  can  be 
removed  by  the  corner  of  a handkerchief.  Sometimes  it  may  become 
imbedded  in  the  membrane  which  covers  the  eye-ball,  or  eye-lid,  and 
require  the  aid  of  a surgeon.  Never  use  any  of  the  eye-waters,  lotions 


1182 


ACCIDENTS  AND  SUDDEN  SICKNESS. 


or  salves  advertised  as  popular,  A particle  of  lime  in  the  eye  is  very 
dangerous,  and  vinegar  diluted  with  water  should  he  applied  at  once;  even 
when  done  immediately  the  eye  will  be  seriously  inflamed. 

ISliock  or  Collapse  from  lightning,  sudden  and  severe  injuries,  burns  ex- 
tending over  a large  extent  of  surface,  or  powerful  emotions,  produces  some- 
thing analogous  to  fainting.  Place  the  patient  flat  on  the  back,  with  the 
head  raised  not  more  than  an  inch,  and  give  a teaspoon  of  brandy  in  a table- 
spoon of  water,  every  minute  for  six  or  eight  minutes.  If  the  temperature 
of  the  body  has  been  raised,  and  the  action  of  the  heart  is  restored,  enough 
has  been  given.  Application  of  heat  to  the  stomach  and  extremities  is  use- 
ful. The  nausea  and  vomiting  that  sometimes  accompany  it  may  be  allayed 
by  swallowing  whole  small  chips  of  ice,  split  off  by  standing  a piece  vdth 
grain  upright  and  splitting  oft*  a thin  edge  with  the  point  of  a pin.  Ammonia 
applied  to  the  nostrils  is  often  useful,  and  cologne  on  a handkerchief  is 
sometimes  of  service. 

Punctured  Wounds  need  a pad  at  the  surface  to  cause  clotting  of  the 
blood  in  the  wound,  but  are  otherwise  treated  like  cuts,  If  pain  follows  and 
inflammation  ensues,  the  pad  must  be  removed  to  permit  the  results  of  the 
inflamation  to  escape.  Thorns  and  splinters,  when  run  into  the  flesh,  should 
be  removed  by  cutting  in  far  enough  to  get  hold  of  and  draw  them  out. 
Slivers  under  the  nail,  when  not  reached  from  the  end,  should  be  removed  by 
scraping  the  nail  thin,  and  cutting  through  it  to  the  foreign  bodj^,  and  so 
withdrawing  it ; the  part  should  then  be  tied  with  a cloth  wet  with  water,  in 
which  a few  drops  of  laudanum  have  been  mixed.  A puncture,  by  a rusty 
nail  Qi*  some  such  substance,  of  the  finger,  toe,  hand,  or  foot,  frequently 
causes  inflammation,  and  yet  there  is  no  room  for  the  foreign  matter  left  in 
the  wound  to  escape  through  the  tough  skin,  and  lock-jaw  results;  in  all 
such  cases  the  wound  should  be  cut  open  to  provide  a way  of  escape  for  the 
blood,  etc.,  and  a piece  fo  linen  wet  with  laudanum  inserted.  Wounds  from 
bruises  and  lacerations  especially  demand  careful  treatment,  on  the  same 
general  principles  given  above. 

Suffocation. — This  often  occurs  from  carbonic  acid  gas,  or  “ choke-damp,” 
on  entering  wells  or  old  cellars  ; this  gas  being  heavier  than  air,  falls  and  rests 
at  the  bottom.  Before  entering  such  places,  test  by  lowering  a lighted 
candle;  if  the  flame  is  extinguished  it  is  unsafe  to  enter  until  the  gas  has 
been  removed,  by  throwing  down  a bundle  of  lighted  shavings  or  blazing  paper 
sufficient  to  cause  a strong  upward  current  When  a person  is  overcome  by 
this  gas,  he  must  be  immediately  rescued  by  another,  who  must  be  rapidly 
low^ered  and  drawn  out,  as  he  must  do  all  while  holding  his  breath ; a large 
sack  is  sometimes  thrown  over  person  who  goes  to  the  rescue.  As  soon  as 
brought  out,  place  the  person  on  his  back,  bare  the  neck  and  throat,  loosen 
clothing  and  strip  as  quickly  as  possible ; if  he  has  not  fallen  in  the  water, 
dash  cold  water  freely  over  head,  neck,  and  shoulders,  standing  off*  several 
feet  and  throwing  it  with  force  ; artificial  respiration  should  be  used  mean- 
time, as  in  case  of  drowning,  with  as  little  cessation  as  possible.  If  the 
person  has  fallen  in  the  water  when  overcome  by  the  gas,  place  in  a warm 
bed,  and  use  the  means  of  artificial  respiration. 

Suffocation  from  burning  charcoal,  from  anthracite  or  bituminous  coal, 
or  from  common  burning  g.is,  or  the  foul  gases  from  drains  and  cess-pools, 
is  treated  as  if  from  carbonic  acid. 

Accidents  in  General. — The  first  and  most  important  thing  after  sending 
for  a surgeon,  when  an  accident  has  occurred,  is  to  keep  off*  the  crowd.  No 
one,  except  one  or  two  in  charge,  should  be  allov/ed  nearer  than  ten  feet ; and 
the  kindest  thing  a by-stander  can  do  is  to  insist  on  such  a space,  and  to  se- 
lect such  persons  as  are  willing  to  go  for  whatever  is  needed  by  the  surgeon  or 


ACCIDENTS  AND  SUDDEN  SICKNESS. 


1183 


physi'^iaii,  so  that  there  may  be  no  delay,  if  anything  is  needed.  If  there  has 
been  a ‘‘shock”  from  a fall  or  blow,  although  there  may  be  no  fracture  or 
externa^  injury,  the  person  is  “faint,”  and  should  be  placed  flat  on  the  back, 
with  the  head,  neck,  and  shoulders  slightly  raised;  the  limbs  should  be 
straightened  out,  so  that  the  heart  may  act  as  easily  as  possible  ; the  cravat, 
collar,  and  clothing,  if  in  the  least  tight,  should  be  loosened.  ’ A sup  of  cold 
water  will  bring  reaction  soon  if  the  injury  is  slight;  a tea-spoon  of  brandy, 
in  a table-spoon  of  water,  every  two  minutes,  gentle  friction  to  the  extremi- 
ties, a handkoivhief  wet  with  cologne-water  held  to  the  nostrils,  a fan,  if  the 
weather  is  hot,  will  all  aid  in  restoring  full  consciousness.  If  thought  best 
to  remove  the  patient  to  his  residence,  or  to  a more  favorable  place  for  treat- 
ment, place  on  a stretcher,  settee,  or  shutter,  slipping  him  on  gently,  taking 
care  that  the  body  is  supported  along  its  whole  length:  throw  a handkerchief 
over  the  face  to  prevent  the  unpleasant  sensation  of  the  staring  crowd,  and 
let  the  stretcher  be  borne  by  persons  of  uniform  gait,  if  possible.  A police- 
man’s services,  if  in  a citv,  are  invaluable  in  keeping  off  a crowd.  When  a 
surgeon  arrives,  his  direciions  will  suffice. 

Burns  and  Scalds. — First  put  the  fire  out,  if  the  clothing  is  on  fire,  throw 
the  person  on  the  ground  and  wrap  in  carpet,  rug, or  your  coat  if  nothing  else 
is  at  hand.  Begin  wrapping  at  the  head  and  shoulders,  and  keep  the  flames 
away  from  the  neck  and  face,  so  as  to  prevent  breathing  the  hot  air  and  con- 
sequent injury  to  the  lungs.  If  prostration  and  shock  or  fainting  is  produced, 
a little  brandy,  repeated  often  until  there  is  a revival  of  strength,  should  be 
given.  A superficial  burn,  covering  a large  surface  is  often  more  dangerous 
than  a deeper  one  confined  to  less  surface.  If  there  is  any  cause  for  appre- 
hension that  the  hot  air  has  been  inhaled,  send  for  a physician  at  once.  If 
the  burn  is  slight  in  character,  appl}^  the  water-dressing,  by  placing  two  or 
more  thicknesses  of  old  linen  (from  table-cloth  or  sheet),  slightly  dampened 
Dver  a surface  a little  larger  than  the  wound : fasten  on  by  slips  of  sticking- 
plaster,  or  on  with  bandages,  and  keep  it  wet  by  frequent  applications  of 
water.  When  the  pain  has  moderated,  a dressing  of  pure  hog’s-lard  is  one 
of  the  best.  It  may  be  purified,  when  doubtful,  boiling  in  water  until  the 
salt  and  impurities  have  settled,  and  then  set  awa.y  to  cool  until  the  floating 
lard  hardens  ; this  is  gathered,  placed  in  a bowl,  set  in^hot  water,  and  kept 
hot  until  all  the  water  in  the  lard  has  passed  off,  when*  it  is  ready  for  use . 
The  common  soda  used  foT- cooking  purposes  may  be  employed  as  a dressing. 
A thick  layer  should  be  spread  over  the  part  and  covered  with  a light  wet 
bandage,  keeping  it  moist  and  renewdng  it  wdien  necessary.  A good  dress- 
ing for  a slight  burn  or  scald  is  the  white  of  an  egg,  applied  wdth  a soft  rag 
or  brush,  applying  fresh  as  the  first  layer  dries  ; a lather  of  soap  from  a shav- 
iug-cup  often  allayes  pain,  and  keeps  out  the  air.  If  so  serious  that  a phy- 
sician has  been  sent  for,  it  is  better  not  to  apply  any  thing,  as  it  may  intefere 
with  his  examination  and  treatment  of  the  case.  In  cases  too  severe  for  the 
mild  treatment  given  above,  send  at  once  for  a physician. 

Drouming. — Death  is  caused  by  cutting  off  the  supply  of  fresh  air  from 
the  lungs,  so  that  the  process  of  purification  of  the  arterial  blood  ceases. 
Life  is  rarely  restored  after  an  immersion  of  five  or  six  minutes,  but  recovery 
has  been  recorded  after  twenty  minutes.  Efforts  to  restore  should  be  con- 
tinued for  at  least  twm  hours,  or  until  the  arrival  of  a physician.  What  is 
done  must  be  done  quickly.  The  body  should  be  recovered  wdtiiout  loss  of 
time,  from  the  wmter,  and  laid  face  downward  for  a moment,  while  the  tongue 
is  pressed  back  by  the  finger  to  allow  the  escape  of  water  or  any  other  sub- 
stance from  the  mouth  or  throat  (no  water  can  ever  by  any  possibility  get 
into  the  lungs).  This  may  be  done  while  the  body  is  being  conveyed  to  tlie 
nearest  house  ; on  arrival,  strip  off  clothing,  place  on  a w^arm  bed,  with  head 
raised  very  little,  if  any,  apply  friction  wdth  the  dry  hands  to  the  extremities, 


1184 


ACCIDENTS  AND  SUDDEN  SICKNESS. 


and  heated  iiamiels  to  the  rest  of  the  body.  Now  breathing  must  he  artifi- 
cially restored.  ‘‘Silvester’s  ready  method”  is  most  favored  by  physicians,* 
and  consists  in  pulling  the  tongue  well  forward,  to  favor  the  passage  of  air 
to  the  lungs,  and  then  drawing  the  arms  away  from  the  sides  of  the  body, 
and  upward,  so  that  they  meet  over  the  head,  and  then  bringing  them  down 
until  the  elbows  almost  meet  over  the  ‘‘pit  of  the  stomach.”  'these  move- 
ments must  be  made,  and  persisted  in  at  the  rate  of  sixteen  to  the  minute. 
Another  method  is  to  place  the  body  flat  on  the  face,  press  gently  on  ‘the 
back,  turn  body  on  its  side  or  a little  beyond,  and  then,  turning  back  upon 
face,  apply  gentle  pressure  again,  repeating  at  the  rate  of  sixteen  times  a 
minute.  As  soon  as  vitality  begins  to  return,  a few  drops  of  brandy,  in  a 
little  water  may  be  administered,  and,  in  a few  minutes^  some  beef-tea  or 
light  nourishment.  Persons  at  all  weakend  by  debility,  especially  by  any 
thing  that  effects  the  nervous  system,  or  those  recovering  from  sickness,  or 
in  the  least  indisposed,  should  never  venture  into  water  beyond  their  depth, 
as  such  conditions  predispose  to  ‘^cramp,”  against  which  the  best  swimmers 
are  helpless. 

SunstroJce. — This  is  favored  by  intemperance,  and  by  debility  brought  or 
by  work  in  a heated  atmosphere.  Those  who  sleep  in  badly  ventilated  apart 
rnents  are  most  subject  to  it.  Most  cases  are  preceded  by  a pain  in  the  head, 
wandering  thought  and  loss  of  mental  control,  disturbed  vision,,  irratibility, 
sense  of  pain,  and  weight  at  pit  of  stomach,  and  labored  breathing.  The  skir  i 
is  hot  and  dry,  or  covered  with  profuse  perspiration;  the  face  bluish;  thu 
breath  rapid  and  short ; and  the  action  of  the  heart  “fluttering.”  In  many 
instances  the  patient  does  not  move  an  eyelid,  from  the  beginning  of  tho 
main  attack  until  death  ensues. 

Carry  the  patient  attacked  at  once  to  a cool,  airy  spot,  in  the  shadow  of  u 
wall,  or  to  a large  room  with  a bare  floor,  remove  clothing  gently,  place 
patient  on  the  back,  raise  head  two  inches  by  a folded  garment,  dash  entire 
body  with  water  profusely,  supplying  basin  with  cold  water  from  two  buck- 
ets, one  of  which  is  filled  vuth  water  and  finely  pulverized  ice  while  the  other 
is  supplying  the  water  used  by  the  attendant.  Dash  on  water  with  force,  par- 
ticularly on  head  and  chest.  Two  persons  may  also  rub  the  entire  body,  par- 
ticularly the  head,  with  a towel  in  which  is  wrapped  pulverized  ice.  As  soon 
as  a decline  in  heat  is  noticed  remove  patient  to  a dry  place,  and  wipe  dry.  If 
heat  comes  on  again  when  consciousness  is  restored,  renew  cold  applications. 
As  soon  as  the  heat  declines,  artificial  respiration  must  be  resorted  to  until 
the  natural  takes  its  place.  There  being  real  asphyxia,  as  in  drowning,  no 
medicine  is  of  use,  and  alcohol  stimulants  should  be  carefully  avoided.  To 
prevent  sunstroke,  use  no  malt  or  alcoholic  liquors,  avoid  overwork  and  ex- 
haustion, take  plenty  of  sleep  in  a well-ventilated  room,  bathe  every  night, 
avoid  drinking  large  quantities  of  water,  especially  at  meals,  wear  loose- 
fitting  garments,  protect  the  head  with  a covering  that  will  shelter  from  the 
sun  and  yet  permit  free  circulation  of  air  over  the  scalp ; a straw  hat  of  loose 
texture,  with  a lining  that  may  be  wet  when  going  out,  and  a broad  brim  to 
protect  neck  and  shoulders,  is  best. 

Hemorrhages. — Bleeding  from  the  nose  may  be  stopped  by  lying  flat  on 
the  back,  with  the  head  raised  and  the  hands  held  above  it.  The  nose  must 
be  covered  with  a cloth  filled  with  powdered  ice,  or  wrung  out  of  ice-water. 
The  head  should  never  be  held  over  a basin,  as  the  position  encourages  bleed- 
ino-.  The  blood  may  be  received  in  a wet  sponge. 

° When  any  one  coughs  or  spits  up  blood,  the  first  thought  is  that  it  must  be 
from  the  lungs.  A slight  knowledge  of  the  characteristics  of  the  blood  from 
different  parts  that  may  come  through  the  mouth  will  sometimes  save  much 
needless  anxiety. 


ACCIDENTS  AND  SUDDEN  SICKNESS. 


1185 


Blood  from  the  lungs  is  always  bright  red  in  color,  because  it  has  just 
been  purified  by  contact  with  the  air.  It  is  frothy,  mixed  with  mucus,  in 
small  quantity,  and  is  usually  coughed  up. 

Blood  from  the  stomach  is  dark  red,  almost  black,  is  mixed  with  particles 
of  food,  comes  in  large  quantities,  and  is  vomited. 

Blood  from  the  mouth  and  gums  is  of  a red  color  and  usually  mfixed  with 
saliva.  Unless  it  has  first  been  swallowed,  it  is  not  vomited  or  coughed  up. 

In  hemorrhage  from  the  lungs  the  head  and  shoulders  must  be  raised. 
Some  physicians  recommend  a table-spoonful  of  table  salt  to  be  given  in  a 
tumbler  of  water.  It  is  always  safe  to  give  cracked  ice. 

Bleeding  from  the  stomach  may  be  checked  by  the  application  of  a mus- 
tard plaster  over  the  stomach ; cracked  ice  should  be  given  and  the  doctor 
sent  for. 

In  bleeding  from  wounds  of  recent  amputation  there  are  three  things 
that  may  be  done  : 

First,  press  the  finger  or  the  hand  over  the  bleeding  point. 

Second,  press  on  the  main  artery  supplying  the  wound,  or,  if  this  can 
not  be  found,  applying  a bandage  as  tightly  as  possible  above  the  wound. 
An  excellent  tourniquet  may  be  improvised  by  knotting  a handkerchief 
loosely  around  the  limb,  thrusting  a short  stick  through  it  and  twisting  it 
tight. 

The  blood  from  an  artery  is  bright  red  and  comes  in  spurts  with  each  beat 
of  the  heart,  while  that  from  the  veins  is  a dark  purplish  color  and  fiows  in 
a steady  stream.  When  the  bleeding  is  from  an  artery,  the  pressure  should 
be  applied  between  the  wound  and  the  heart ; when  from  a vein,  the  limb 
must  be  compressed  beyond  the  wound. 

Third,  raise  the  part  above  the  rest  of  the  body,  that  the  blood  may  drain 
out  of  it  and  support  it  on  pillows.  It  should  be  bathed  in  ice-water  and 
have  ice  wrapped  in  cotton  cloths  laid  on  it. 

If  fainting  ensues,  the  sufferer  should  not  be  immediately  roused,  as  this 
is  natures  remedy,  and  acts  by  lessening  the  force  and  activity  of  the  circula- 
tion. If  any  part  of  the  body  has  been  cut  off,  it  should  be  cleaned  of  for- 
eign matter,  and  at  once  replaced,  wrapped  in  cotton  to  retain  warmth,  and 
a gentle  pressure  kept  on  to  retain  it  in  place.  Circulation  is  often  restored 
and  the  union  made  complete. 

ANTIDOTES  TO  POISONS. 

The  first  thing  to  do  is  to  cause  their  rejection  by  vomiting,  to  do  which 
place  mustard  mixed  with  salt  on  the  tongue,  or  give  large  quantities  of 
luke  warm  water,  or  tickle  the  throat  with  a feather.  These  failing,  instantly 
resort  to  active  emetics,  like  tartar  emetic,  sulpate  of  copper,  or  sulphate  of 
zinc!  After  vomiting  has  taken  place  with  these,  continue  it  if  possible  by 
copious  draughts  of  warm  water  till  the  poison  is  entirely  removed.  Of 
course,  if  vomiting  can  not  be  induced,  the  stomach  pump  must  be  employed, 
especially  if  arsenic  or  narcotics  have  been  taken.  A brief  table,  formulated 
as  follows,  may  be  useful  for  emergencies. 


POISONS. 


ANTIDO 


Acids. 

Alkalies. 

Alcohol. 

Arsenic. 

Antimony. 

Baryta  or  Lime. 

Bismuth. 

Copper. 


Alkalies — Soap  and  milk,  chalk,  soda,  lime-water. 
Vegetable  Acids — Vinegar,  oil  in  abundance. 
Common  salt,  moderately. 

Send  for  the  doctor  and  his  stomach  pump. 
Oak-bark,  strong  green  tea. 

Epsom  salts,  oils,  and  magnesia. 

Whites  of  eggs,  sweet  milk. 

AV bites  of  eggs,  or  strong  coffee. 

75 


1186 


ACCIDENTS  AND  SUDDEN  SICKNESS. 


Gases. 

Iodine. 

Creosotb. 

Lead. 


Cold  douche,  followed  by  friction. 
Starch,  wheat  flour  in  water. 
White  of  eggs,  sweet  milk. 
Lemonade,  strong,  epsom  salts. 


Opium  and  other 
Narcotics. 
Phosphorus^ 
Zinc. 


Emetics — Cold  douche,  exercise,  and  heat. 

Magnesia,  in  copious  draughts. 

Whites  of  eggs,  sweet  milk. 

Apply  fire  in  some  form  to  the  wound,  tho(k:<»ughly  and 
immediately. 

Ammonia,  applied  freely. 

Same  as  for  mad-dog,  followed  by  whisky  to  intoxication. 
The  foregoing  are  the  more  common  and  important  poitsons  and  theii 
antidotes. 


Mad-dog  Bite. 

Bite  op  Insects. 
Bite  op  Serpent. 


THE  ARTS  OP  THE  TOILET. 


1187 


THE  ARTS  OF  THE  TOILET. 


Beauty  and  health  constitute  a royal  inheritence.  The  child  born  with 
such  a heritage,  and  brought  up  by  a mother  who  has  the  good  sense  to  dis- 
card soothing  syrup,  narcotics  and  cordials,  and  carefully  trained  up  to  cleanly 
habits,  proper  exercise,  plenty  of  air  and  sunshine,  and  wholesome  food, 
starts  in  life  with  a capital  that  will  in  the  long  run  tip  the  balance  against 
the  largest  fortune  in  dollars.  To  keep  health  and  beauty,  or  to  restore  it 
when  lost,  it  is  necessary  to  observe  the  laws  of  health,  discarding  quackery 
and  panaceas  of  all  kinds  as  superstitions,  and  inventions  of  the  devil.  Pure 
air  and  plenty  of  it,  free  sunshine  and  plenty  of  it,  are  better  restoratives 
than  all  the  patent  medicines  under  the  sun.  Too  often  the  doctor  brings  the 
medicine  only  to  have  the  medicine  bring  the  doctor  again.  The  sunlight 
will  give  a lady’s  cheek  a fresher  tings  and  a more  delicate  complexion  than 
all  the  French  powders  and  rouge  in  Paris. 


For  the  Hair. — Wash  in  cold  sage-tea. 

Camphor — put  in  drawers  or  trunks  will  keep  away  mice. 

The  Neck. — Too  tight  collars  and  neckerchiefs  are  apt  to  produce  perma- 
nent swelling  of  the  throat. 

Cocoa  Butter. — Apply  at  night,  to  face  and  hands,  and  wash  off  in  the 
morning.  This  is  excellent  for  the  skin,  and  keeps  it  soft  and  clear. 

To  Clean  Light  Kids. — Put  the  glove  on  the  hand,  and  rub  thoroughly 
with  white  corn-meal,  using  a piece  of  cotton  flannel. 

To  keep  Pearls  Brilliant. — Keep  in  commor , dry  magnesia,  instead  of  the 
cotton  wool  used  in  jewel  cases,  and  they  will  never  lose  their  briliancy. 

Tonic  for  the  Hair. — Ounce  best  castor-oil,  two  ounces  each  of  French 
brandy  and  bay  rum ; scent  rosemary  and  rose-geranium. 

To  Cure  Chilblains. — Soak  feet  for  fifteen  minutes  in  warm  water,  put  oil 
a pair  of  rubbers,  without  stockings,  and  go  to  bed. 


1188 


THE  ARTS  OF  THE  TOILET. 


Cement  for  Jet. — Use  shellac  to  join,  then  smoke  the  joints  to  make  them 
black. 

Mother’s  Marks — should  never  be  interfered  with,  except  by  the  advice 
of  a physician. 

Tetter  or  Ringworm — of  the  face  is  caused  by  a disordered  stomach,  and 
must  be  cured  by  proper  diet. 

Pimples — are  caused  by  improper  diet,  and  can  never  be  cured  except  by 
correcting  the  habits.  Cosmetics  only  injure. 

To  Restore  Color  to  Kid  Shoes. — Mix  a small  quantity  of  good  polish  black- 
ing with  the  white  of  an  egg. 

Hair  Oil. — Two  tea-spoons  each  of  castor  oil,  ammonia  and  glycerine ; 
and  alcohol  enough  to  cut  the  oil,  and  put  in  a four-ounce  bottle  half  full  of 
rain-water.  Shake  before  using. 

Black  Heads. — To  remove  ‘‘black  heads”  in  the  face,  place  over  the  black 
spot  the  hollow  end  of  a watch  key,  and  press  firmly.  This  forces  the  foreign 
substance  out,  so  that  it  may  be  brushed  ofi*  and  is  a cure. 

To  Keep  off  Mosquitoes. — Rub  exposed  parts  with  kerosene,  or  essence  of 
peppermint.  The  odor  is  not  noticed  after  a few  minutes,  and  children  es- 
pecially are  much  relieved  by  its  use. 

The  J5reai/i,— Nothing  makes  one  so  disagreeable  to  others  as  a bad  breath. 
It  is  caused  by  bad  teeth,  diseased  stomach,  or  disease  of  the  nostrils.  Neat- 
ness and  care" of  the  health  will  prevent  and  cure  it. 

The  Skin  and  Complexion. — Washing  in  cool,  but  not  excessively  cold, 
water,  and  general  cleanliness,  keeps  skin  healthy  and  complexion  clear. 

Ivory  Blacking  for  Shoes. — Four  ounces  ivory  black,  three  ounces  coarsest 
sugar,  one  table-spoon  sweet-oil,  one  pint  small  beer ; mix  well  together. 

Castor-oil  for  Shoes. — Take  a teaspoon  of  it  and  rub  in  thoroughly  by  a 
fire.  Do  this  when  the  shoes  are  new,  and  several  times  afterwards,  and 
they  will  last  twice  as  long. 

Dandruff. — One  ounce  flour  of  sulphur  to  one  quart  of  water.  Shake 
well  at  intervals,  for  a few  hours,  and,  when  settled,  saturate  the  head  with 
the  clear  liquid  every  morning. 

For  Chapped  Hand^,  Face  and  Lips. — Ten  drops  carbolic  acid  in  one  ounce 
glycerine ; apply  freely  at  night.  Pure  mutton  tallow  is  also  excellent. 

Cologne  Water. — Thirty  drops  each  oil  of  lavender,  oil  of  bergamot,  oil 
of  lemon,  and  orange-flower  water,  half  pint  deoderized  alcohol.  Cork  and 
shake  well. 

Corpulency. — An  excess  of  fat  is  a disease.  To  reduce  the  excess,  eat  lit- 
tie  or  no  butter,  fat  meat,  gravies,  sugar,  vegetables,  or  other  articles  con- 
taining large  amounts  of  starch  and  sugar. 

Dandruff  in  the  Hair. — There  is  no  simpler  nor  better  remedy  for  this 
vexacious  appearance  (caused  by  a dryness  of  the  skin)  than  a wash  of  cam- 
phor and  borax — an  ounce  of  each  put  into  a pint  and  a half  of  cold  water, 
and  afterwards  rub  a little  pure  oil  into  the  scalp. 

Moth  Patches — may  be  removed  from  the  face  by  the  following  remedy : 
Into  a pint  bottle  of  rum  put  a table-spoon  of  flour  of  sulphur.  Apply  this 
to  the  patches  once  a day,  and  they  will  disappear  in  two  or  three  weeks. 


THE  ARTS  0F  THE  TOILET. 


1189 


Boston  Burnett  Powder  for  the  Face. — Five  cents  worth  of  bay  rum,  five 
cents  worth  of  magnesia  su'w-flake,  five  cents  worth  of  bergamot,  five  cents 
w^orth  of  oil  of  lemon ; mix  in  a pint  bottle  and  fill  up  with  rain-water. 

To  Clean  Jewelry. — Any  gold  jewelry  that  an  immersion  in  water  will  not 
injure,  can  be  beautifully  cleaned  by  shaking  it  well  in  a bottle  nearly  full  of 
w*arm  soap-suds  to  which  a little  prepared  chalk  has  been  added,  and  after- 
wards rinsing  it  in  clear,  cold  water,  and  wiping  it  on  a towel. 

Brush  Stand. — A toilet  convenience  is  a white  wire  stand  for  hand  and 
toothbrushes.  It  is  so  contrived  that  the  brushes  are  kept  in  place  and 

are  always  within  easy  and  convenient  reach. 
The  stand  is  not  expensive,  and  is  ornamental  as 
well  as  useful. 

Freckle  Cm^e. — Take  2 oz.  lemon  juice,  or 
half  a dram  of  powdered  borax,  and  one  dram 
of  sugar : mix  together,  and  let  them  stand  in  a 
glass  bottle  for  a few  days,  then  rub  on  the  face 
occasionally. 

Bloom  of  Youth. — Boil  1 ounce  of  Brazil  wood 
in  3 pints  of  water  for  15  minutes  ; strain.  Add 
% oz.  isinglass.  34  oz.  cochineal,  1 oz.  alum,  34 
oz.  borax.  Dissolve  by  heat,  and  strain. 

Cologne  Water. — Oils  of  rosemary  and  lemon, 
of  each  34  oz. ; oils  of  bergamot  and  lavender, 
each 34  oz. ; oil  cinnamon,  8 drops,  oils  of  cloves  and  rose,  each  15  drops; 
best  deodorized  alcohol,  2 qts. ; shake  two  or  three  times  per  day  for  a week. 

Food  for  the  Hair. — This,  if  regularly  used,  wdll  prevent  hair  turning  grey. 
One  part  of  alcohol  to  two  parts  of  castor  oil.  Rub  in  once  a week  well  about 
the  roots. 

Stains  on  the  Hands — from  nitrate  of  silver,  may  be  removed  by  a solution 
of  chloride  of  lime.  Fruit  stains  are  removed  by  washing  the  hands  without 
soap,  and  holding  them  over  the  smoke  of  burning  matches  or  sulphur. 

To  Remove  Sunburn. — Scrape  a cake  of  brown  Windsor  soap  to  a powder, 
add  one  ounce  each  of  eau  de  Cologne  and  lemon-juice ; mix  well  and  form 
into  cakes.  This  removes  tan,  prevents  hands  from  chapping,  and  makes 
the  skin  soft  and  white.  ■*' 

Warts. — Wash  with  water  saturated  with  common  w^ashing  soda,  and  let 
dry  without  wiping ; repeat  frequently  until  they  disappear.  Or  pass  a pin 
through  the  wart,  and  hold  one  end  of  it  over  the  flame  of  a candle  or  lamp 
until  the  wart  flres  by  the  heat,  aud  it  will  disappear. 

Moles. — To  remove,  moisten  a stick  of  nitrate  of  silver,  touch  the  moles, 
and  they  will  turn  black  and  sore,  and  soon  they  will  dry  up  and  fall  ofi"  of 
themselves.  If  they  do  not  entirely  go,  repeat.  It  is  better,  however,  never 
to  attempt  their  removal  without  consulting  a physician. 

Cold  Cream  for  Chapped  Lips.  — One-half  ounce  spermaceti,  twenty 
grains  white  wax,  twm  ounces  pure  oil  of  sweet  almonds,  one  ounce  pure 
glycerine,  six  drops  oil  of  rose ; melt  first  three  ingredients  together,  and, 
wlien  cooling,  add  the  glycerine  and  oil  of  rose,  stirring  until  cold. 

Yankee  Shaving  Soap. — Take  3 lbs.  wfliite  bar  soap;  1 lb,  Castile  soap;  1 
quart  rain  water ; ^ qt.  beef’s  gall ; 1 gill  spirits  of  turpentine.  Cut  the  soap 


1190 


THE  AETS  OF  THE  TOILET. 


into  thin  slices,  and  boil  five  minutes  after  the  soap  is  dissolved,  stir  while 
boiling;  scent  with  oil  of  rose  or  almonds.  If  wished  to  color  it,  use  % oz. 
vermilion. 

Bad  Breath. — Bad  breath,  from  catarrh,  foul  stomach,  or  bad  teeth,  may 
be  temporarily  relieved  by  diluting  a little  bromo  chloralum  with  eight  or  ten 
parts  water,  and  using  as  a gargle,  and  swallowing  a few  drops  just  before 
going  out.  A pint  of  bromo  chloralum  costs  fifty  cente,  but  a small  vial  full 
will  last  a long  time. 

Fruit  Stains.— may  be  removed  from  the  fingers  in  the  following  manner : 
Mix  together  half  an  ounce  cream  tartar  and  half  an  ounce  of  powdered  salt 
of  sorrel ; apply  a solution  of  this  to  the  fingers,  and  the  stains  will  disappear. 
Diluted  sulphuric  acid  may  be  used,  but  care  should  be  taken  that  none  of  it 
touches  any  fabric,  as  the  acid  will  destroy  it.  ’ . 

Flesh  Worms. — Black  specks  on  the  nose  disfigures  the  face.  Remove  by 
washing  thoroughly  in  tepid  water,  rubbing  with  a towel,  and  applying  with 
a soft  flannel  a lotion  made  of  three  ounces  of  cologne  and  half  an  ounce  of 
liquor  of  potash.  Or  press  out  by  putting  the  hollow  end  of  a watch-key 
over  each  speck. 

Lips  or  Hands  Chapped  by  cold  weather  or  wind,  should  be  rubbed  with 
glycerine  generally  when  about  to  be  exposed  to  the  air,  or  rubbed  with  honey 
after  washing.  Never  kiss  the  lips  of  persons  not  in  health,  as  disease  is 
sometimes  contracted  in  this  way,  as  well  as  by  the  use  of  towels,  cups  or 
tumblers  used  by  unhealthy  persons. 

Bay  Rum. — Ten  cents  worth  of  magnesia,  two  quarts  each  of  soft  water 
and  alcohol,  one  ounce  oil  of  bay.  Dissolve  magnesia  in  rain  water,  then 
add  other  ingredients.  Wrap  filtered  paper  in  form  of  a funnel,  and  filter 
carefully  through  into  a bottle  and  cork  tightly.  When  used,  dilute  with 
rain  water  to  whatever  strength  desired. 

Leanness — Is  caused  generally  by  lack  of  power  in  the  digestive  organs  to 
digest  and  assimilate  the  fat-producing  elements  of  food.  First  restore 
digestion,  take  plenty  of  sleej),  driitk  all  the  stomach  will  bear  in  the  morn- 
ing on  rising,  take  moderate  exercise  in  the  open  air,  eat  oat-meal,  cracked 
wheat,  Graham  mush,  baked  sweet  apples,  roasted  and  broiled  beef,  culti- 
vate jolly  people,  and  bathe  daily. 

Superfluous  Hairs. — Are  best  left  alone.  Shaving  only  increases  the 
strength  of  the  hair,  and  all  depilatories  are  dangerous  and  sometimes  dis- 
figure the  face.  The  only  sure  plan  is  to  spread  on  a piece  of  leather  equal 
parts  of  galbanum  and  pitch  piaster,  lay  it  on  the  hair  as  smoothly  as  pos- 
sible, let  it  remain  three  or  four  minutes,  then  remove  it  with  the  hairs,  root 
and  branch.  This  is  severe  but  effective.  Kerosene  will  also  remove  them. 
If  sore  after  using,  rub  on  sweet  oil. 

The  Face. — To  wash  properly,  fill  basin  two-thirds  full  with  fresh,  soft 
water,  dip  face  in  the  water  and  then  the  hands  ; soap  the  hands  well  and  rub 
with  a gentle  friction  over  the  face ; dip  the  face  in  water  the  second  time 
and  rinse  off  thoroughly,  wiping  with  a thick  but  soft  towel.  Pure  soaps  do 
not  irritate  the  skin.  The  best  are  castile,  curd,  glycerine  and  other  neutral 
soaps.  Medicated  or  higly  colored  or  perfumed  soaps  should  never  be  used. 

Food. — A good  complexion  never  goes  with  a bad  diet.  Strong  eofifee, 
hot  bread  and  butter,  heated  grease,  highly  spiced  soups,  meats  or  game,  hot 
drinks,  alcoholic  liquors,  fat  meats,  are  all  damaging  to  its  beauty.  Strong 
tea,  used  daily,  will  after  a time  give  the  skin  the  color  and  appearance  of 
leather.  Coffee  affects  the  skin  less  but  the  nerves  more,  and  a healthy 


mE  ARTS  OF  THE  TOILET. 


1191 


nervous  system  is  necessary  to  beauty.  Late  suppers,  over-eating  at  meals, 
eating  between  meals,  the  use  of  candies,  sweetmeats,  preserves,  etc.,  pro- 
duce pimples  and  blotches. 

The  Hands. — The  use  of  gloves,  especially  kids,  help  to  preserve  the  soft- 
ness of  the  hands.  Cleanliness  and  sprinkling  with  orris-root  counteracts 
excessive  perspiration.  Wans  are  removed  by  steeping  the  hands  in  warm 
water  for  half  an  hour,  and  then  paring  away  the  white  and  insensible  sur- 
face. The  nails  should  be  cut  frequently,  always  in  oval  shape.  The  nail- 
brush should  be  full  and  soft.  It  should  be  rubbed  on  a cake  of  soap  and 
then  used  vigorously.  Biting  nails  is  a bad  habit.  To  break  it  up,  in  chil- 
dren, dip  the  ends  of  the  lingers  in  a solution  of  aloes. 

The  Nose. — Excessive  willing,  snuffing,  and  blowing,  especially  in  chil- 
dren, deforms  the  nose,  and  should  be  practiced  only  when  necessary  for 
cleanliness.  A nose  leaning  on  one  side,  caused  by  wiping  in  one  direction, 
may  be  cured  by  using  the  handkerchief  with  the  other  hand,  or  by  wear- 
ing occasionally  an  instrument  surgeons  employ  for  that  purpose.  Large, 
fleshy  noses  are  reduced  by  wearing  at  night  a contrivance  which  compresses 
the  artery  that  supplies  the  nose.  Red  noses  become  so  by  exposure  to  heat 
or  the  sun,  by  alcoholic  drinks,  or  by  debility  of  the  blood-vessels  of  the  skin. 
The  latter  cause  is  removed  by  gentle  friction  and  cold  bathing  of  the  feet. 

To  Clean  Jewelry,  Silver,  Etc. — To  one  pint  of  stale  beer,  add  one-third 
pint  strong  ammonia,  let  stand  for  ten  days,  keep  well  corked.  Put  a 
little  of  above  in  a saucer,  in  another  dish  some  cream  of  tartar,  say  one-half 
teaspoon,  then  take  stiff  brush,  dip  in  solution,  then  in  cream  of  tartar,  and 
apply  to  the  article  to  be  cleaned.  Striking  with  the  brush  is  better  than 
brushing,  as  thereby  you  can  get  into  the  corners  and  crevices.  Wash  the 
articles  with  soap  and  warm  water  after  cleaning,  and  dry  in  saw  dust.  For 
Roman  gold  and  frosted  jewelry,  also  silver  ware,  it  is  especially  recommen- 
ded, and  will  make  the  article  look  like  new  goods.  Keep  cream  of  tartar  in 
box  or  bottle  well  corked. 

The  Bath — Not  only  promotes  cleanliness,  but  is  a tonic.  The  skin  does 
one-third  of  the  work  of  breathing,  and  if  the  myriad  of  pores  are  closed,  the 
lungs  are  overburdened,  or  else  the  work  is  left  undone.  The  tonic  effect 
is  caused  by  the  contraction  of  the  surface  blood  vessels,  driving  the  blood 
back  to  the  larger  blood-vessels  and  the  heart,  bringing  on  a reaction  which 
rushes  the  blood  back  to  the  skin,  causing  a glow,  freer  respiration  and 
more  vigorous  action  of  the  whole  muscular  system.  A sponge  or  hand  bath 
are  the  simplest  forms,  and  should  be  taken  in  a moderately  warm  room. 
As  a rule,  the  more  rapidly  a bath  is  taken  the  better,  and  it  should  always 
be  followed  by  friction  with  the  hand  or  with  a not  too  rough  towel. 

The  Ear. — The  outer  ear  should  be  well  cleaned  and  the  passage  wiped 
out  daily  with  a rag  on  the  end  of  the  little  finger,  but  nothing  should  be 
inserted  further.  The  insertion  of  a pin,  or  any  liard  substance,  frequently 
ruptures  the  ear.  When  cleansing  is  necessary  on  account  of  accumulation 
of  wax  by  cold,  or  other  cause,  it  should  be  done  by  syringing  with  warm 
water,  having  dropped  in  two  or  three  drops  of  glycerine  the  night  before  to 
soften  the  substance  to  be  removed.  This  often  cures  sudden  deafness. 
Cotton- wool  stuffed  into  the  ear  is  injurious  and  is  seldom  necessary.  In 
conversing  with  deaf  persons,  it  is  important  to  remember  that  clearness,  dis- 
tinctness, and  a musical  tone  of  voice  is  understood  much  more  easily  than  a 
loud  tone. 

Sponge  Baskets. — A sponge,  when  damp,  is  a nuisance.  If  hung  up  it 
moistens  the  wall,  and  if  laid  dowm  it  gets  in  every  body’s  way  and  gathers 
dirt.  The  simple,  neat  and  cheap  wire  basket  which  hangs  on  the  wall  is  a 


1192 


THE  ARTS  OF  THE  TOILET. 


good  receptacle  for  it,  or  a three-cornered  piece  of  oil-cloth,  sustained  by  a 
string  fastened  to  each  corner,  is  a good  makeshift  for  the  same  purpose. 

Collars  that  do  not  Fit. — Few  gentlemen  have  philosophy  enough  to 
endure  an  ill-fitting  collar  with  patience,  but  not  many  understand  why  they 
do  not  fit.  The  fact  is,  the  laundress  stretches  them  the  wrong  way.  Damp 
linen  is  very  pliable,  and  a good  pull  will  alter  a fourteen-inch  into” a fifteen- 
inch  collar  in  the  twinkling  of  an  eye.  She  ought  to  stretch  them  crosswise, 
and  not  lengthwise.  Then  in  straightening  out  shirt-bosoms,  she  makes 
another  mistake  of  the  same  sort.  They  also  ought  to  be  pulled  crosswise 
instead  of  lengthwise,  particularly  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  neck.  A 
lengthwise  pull  draws  the  front  of  the  neckband  somewhat  directly  under 
your  chin,  where  it  was  never  meant  to  go ; and,  of  course,  that  spoils  the  fit 
of  your  collar.  With  the  front  of  the  neckband  an  inch  too  high,  and  the 
collar  an  inch  too  long,  you  have  a most  undesirable  combination. 

Cutting  Teeth. — The  time  the  first  teeth  make  their  appearance  varies 
but  the  following  dates  approximate  the  time  : Central  incisors  from  five  to 
eight  months  after  birth  ; lateral  incisors  from  seven  to  ten  ; first  molars  from 
twelve  to  sixteen ; cuspids,  or  eye-teeth,  from  fourteen  to  twenty ; second 
molars  from  twenty  to  thirty-six.  The  first  teeth  should  be  protected  fron 
decay  as  far  as  possible  by  careful  cleaning  daily ; if  decay  makes  its  appear- 
ance, the  cavity  should  be  promptly  filled,  and  the  tooth  saved  until  displaced ' 
by  the  permanent  teeth.  About  the  sixth  year,  the  first  molars  of  the  per- 
manent teeth  make  their  appearance.  They  are  generally  supposed  to  belong 
to  the  first  or  milk-teeth,  and  are  frequently  lost  for  want  of  care.  A little 
more  attention  given  to  the  first  teeth  would  save  parents  and  children  sleep- 
less nights  and  suffering. 

The  Eyes — Damp,  foggy  weather,  the  reflection  of  the  bright  sunshine 
intense  cold,  dusty  wind,  reading  on  cars  in  motion,  reading  by  gas  or  lamp- 
light when  the  light  falls  directly  on  the  eyes,  sitting  before  a glowing  fire, 
wearing  of  glasses  w'hen  not  needed,  wearing  veils,  and  all  indulgences  that 
weaken  the  nervous  system,  injures  the  eyes.  The  most  pleasing  light  for 
wmrk  is  from  a northern  exposure.  A shade  that  protects  the  eyes  from  the 
light  that  falls  on  paper, book  or  work  is  an  advantage.  The  light  should  not 
come  from  different  points,  but  that  from  behind  the  worker  is  best.  A very 
weak  or  very  bright  light  should  be  equally  avoided.  Diseases  of  the  eye 
are  often  the  result  of  general  weakness,  and  in  such  cases  local  treatment 
has  little  efifect.  In  fitting  glasses  to  the  eye  great  care  should  be  taken  to 
adjust  the  lens  to  the  eye  with  accuracy.  Crown  glass  is  preferable  to  flint 
on  account  of  its  superior  hardness,  its  entire  want  of  color,  and  its  non-de- 
composition of  light.  Scotch  pebbles  are  unobjectionable  except  as  to  cost. 

Dress. — The  first  object  of  dress  is  protection  of  the  body,  second  to  en- 
hance and  bring  out  its  beauty.  Dress  which  does  not  enhance  the  beauty 
of  the  wearer,  or  which  attracts  attention  from  the  wearer  to  itself,  is  out  of 
taste.  To  be  in  correct  taste  it  must  be  ‘ ‘ becoming,  ’ ’ and  in  this  sense  dress- 
ing is  an  art  worthy  of  the  attention  and  study  of  the  most  intellectual  and 
accomplished  woman.  The  beauty  of  dress,  to  a cultivated  eye,  does  not  lie 
in  its  money  value,  but  in  its  perfection  in  detail  and  perfect  adaptation  to 
the  wearer  and  the  occasion  for  v/hich  it  is  intended.  Any  simpleton  in  pet- 
ticoats, who  has  plenty  of  money,  can  order  her  clothes  from  Worth, 
in  the' latest  Paris  styles,  but  some  quiet  woman,  with  brains  and  taste,  in 
simpler  costume,  will  be  sure  to  outshine  her  in  “society.”  Low-necked 
dresses,  dragging  skirts,  corsets  and  stays,  paddings,  heavy  skirts  which  rest 
on  the  hips,  heavy  veils,  high-heeled  boots  and  every  other  unphysiological 
abomination  in  dress,  mars  beauty  and  destroys  health. 


THE  AETS  OF  THE  TOILET. 


1193 


Brush  and  Comb-Rack. — A very  neat  white 
wire  rack,  for  holding  the  hair-brush  and 
comb,  which  usually  lie  in  the  way  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  mirror,  may  now  be  had  for  a 
few  cents,  and  is  a great  convenience  for  the 
toilet. 

Cheap  Toilet  Table. — When  a wash  stand 
can  not  be  aflbred.  procure  a large  three-cor- 
nered piece  of  board,  large  enough  to  comfortably  accommodate  a wash  bowl, 
pitcher,  etc.,  and  fasten  it  in  a corner  of  the  room  where  the  light  is  good. 
Cover  it  suitably  with  colored  cambric,  tack  on  the  edge  a slightly  full  flounce 
of  the  same,  long  enough  to  reach  the  floor.  Over  this  place  plain  book  mus- 
lin with  box  pleatings  across  the  edge  and  along  the  bottom.  The  frame  of 
the  mirror  over  it  may  also  be  draped  wifh  book  muslin.  Neat  paper  boxes 
covered  with  fancy  paper  or  zephyr  v/ork  may  be  added  for  holding  brushes, 
combs,  etc.  A neat  drawer  may  easily  be  fltted  under  the  board,  and  will  be 
found  convenient  for  many  purposes. 

Freckles. — Grate  horse-radish  flue  ; let  it  stand  a few  hours  in  buttermilk, 
then  strain  and  use  the  wash  night  and  morning.  Or,  squeeze  the  juice  of  a 
lemon  into  half  a goblet  of  water  and  use  the  same  way.  Most  of  the  reme- 
dies for  freckles  are  poisonous,  and  can  not  be  used  with  safety.  Freckles 
indicate  a defective  digestion,  and  consists  in  deposits  of  some  carbonaceous 
or  fatty  matter  beneath  the  skin.  The  diet  should  be  of  such  a nature  that 
bowels  and  kidneys,  will  do  their  duty.  Daily  bathing,  with  much  friction, 
should  not  be  neglected,  and  the  Turkish  bath  taken  occasionally,  if  con- 
venient. The  juice  of  a lemon,  in  which  there  is  as  much  sugar  dissolved  as 
the  juice  will  hold  in  solution,  is  an  excellent  remedy  for  freckles.  This 
should  be  applied  with  a camel’ s-hair  brush  several  times  daily,  until  they 
disappear.  It  must  be  understood  that  all  acids  are  astringents  in  their 
i/ature,  and  their  too  frequent  use  is  as  injurious  as  many  apparently  more  dele- 
terious cosmetics;  for,  by  too  frequent  and  violent  contraction  of  the  pores, 
they  become  overworked,  and  finally  refuse  to  respond  to  the  action  of  any 
application;  wrinkles  result,  and  are  generally  ineradicable,  except  after  a 
tedious  dietetic  and  medical  course  of  treatment. 

Teeth. — Cracking  nuts,  biting  thread,  eating  hot  food,  especially  bread 
ond  pastry  raised  with  soda,  very  cold  drinks,  alternate  contact  with  cold  and 
/.,ot  substances,  highly  seasoned  food,  alcoholic  liquors  and  tobacco,  metal 
looth  picks,  and  want  of  cleanliness,  are  injurious  to  teeth.  After  eating, 
the  mouth  should  be  rinsed  with  lukewarm  water,  and  such  pieces  of  food 
as  are  not  thus  washed  away  removed  by  a quill  toothpick.  Toothbrushes 
should  be  elastic  and  not  too  hard.  Those  with  hairs  not  too  close 
together  are  best  and  most  durable.  A brush  that  is  too  hard  may  be  per- 
manently softened  by  dipping  in  hot  water.  Rub  up  and  down  as  well  as 
across  the  teeth.  Teeth  should  be  ofted  examined  by  a competent  dentist. 
A great  many,  while  attentive  to  their  teeth,  do  more  injury  than  good  by 
too  much  officiousness,  daily  applying  some  dentrifrice,  or  tooth-powder,  often 
impure  and  injurious,  and  rubbing  them  so  hard  as  not  only  to  injure  the  en- 
amel by  excessive  friction,  but  also  to  hurt  the  gums  even  more  than  by  a 
tooth’'  ic.  Tooth-powders  advertised  in  newspapers  are  to  be  suspected,  as 
same  of  them  are  not  free  from  corrosive  ingredients.  Charcoal  (which 
whitens  the  teeth  very  nicely),  pumice-stone,  cuttle-fish,  and  similar  sub- 
stances, are  unfit  for  use  in  tooth-powders,  as  all  are  to  a certain  extent  in- 
soluble in  the  mouth,  and  are  forced  between  the  margin  of  the  gums,  form- 
ing a nucleus  for  a deposit.  Below  will  be  found  a few  good  formulas  for 
dentifrices : Three  and  one  half  pounds  of  creta  preparata,  one  pound  each 


1194 


THE  ARTS  OF  THE  TOILET. 


of  powdered  borax,  powdered  orris-foot  and  white  sugar,  and  two  ounces 
cardamon  seeds  ; flavor  w’ith  wintergreen,  rose  or  jasmine.  If  color  is  desired, 
use  one  pound  of  rose-pink  and  as  much  less  of  creta  preparata.  Tooth-pow- 
ers should  be  thoroughly  triturated  in  a wedge-wood  mortar  and  flnely  bolted. 
The  following  is  a simple  and  cheap  preparation,  and  pretty  good.  Take  of 
prepared  chalk  and  fine  old  Windsor  soap  pulverized  well  in  proportion  of 
about  six  parts  of  the  former  to  one  of  the  latter.  Soap  is  a very  beneficial 
ingredient  of  tooth-powder. 

The  Hair. — Professor  Erasmus  Wilson,  of  London,  who  is  authority  on  the 
subject,  condemns  the  washing  of  hair;  but  advises  that  it  should  be  kept 
clean  by  brushing,  this  being  a more  effective  stimulant  than  water.  In  cases 
of  ordinary  falling  out  of  the  hair,  he  prescribed  the  following : Liquid  am- 
monia, almond  oil,  and  chloroform,  of  each  one  part,  diluted  with  five  parts 
of  alcohol  or  spirits  of  rosemary,  which  can  be  made  fragrant  by  the  addi- 
tion of  a drachm  of  the  essential  o^l  of  lemons.  The  head  should  undergo  a 
thorough  friction  with  the  hair-brush,  after  which  the  lotion  may  be  applied. 
It  may  be  diluted,  if  necessary,  and  can  be  applied  daily  or  otherwise. 

For  removing  scurf,  he  advises  a lotion  of  borax  and  glycerino,  two 
drachms  of  each  to  eight  ounces  of  distilled  water.  This  is  cooling,  and 
allays  dryness  of  the  skin. 

In  cases  of  baldness,  a lotion  of  the  following  can  be  used  with  effect : 
tlamphor,  ammonia,  chloroform  and  aconite,  in  equal  parts,  to  be  rubbed  on 
the  bare  place  daily,  or  twice  a day. 

A barber  recommends  ladies  to  have  their  hair  shampooed  once  a month. 
This  will  bring  out  the  natural  luster,  soften  it,  clear  it  of  dust,  and  rob  it  of 
that  musty  smell  which  comes  of  having  long  hair  wound  up  closely  for  any 
length  of  time.  It  will  also  remove  that  itching  of  the  head  which  some 
ladies  find  so  troublesome. 

For  Complexion. — Blanch  one-fourth  pound  best  Jordan  almonds,  slip  off 
the  skin,  mash  in  a mortar,  and  rub  together  with  best  white  soap,  for  fifteen 
minutes,  adding  gradually  one  quart  rose-water  or  clean,  fresh  rain-water, 
may  be  used.  When  the  mixture  looks  like  milk,  strain  through  fine  muslin. 
Apply,  after  washing,  with  a soft  rag.  To  whiten  the  skin,  and  remove 
freckles  and  tan,  bathe  three  times  a day  in  a preparation  of  three  quarts 
water,  one  quart  alcohol,  two  ounces  cologne,  and  one  of  borax,  in  propor- 
tion of  two  tea-spoons  mixture  to  two  table-spoons  soft  water.  Bathing  the 
face  in  pure  buttermilk,  clear  whey,  sour  milk,  new  or  sweet  milk,  is  soothing 
and  healing  after  w^alking,  riding,  driving,  rowing  or  sailing.  Do  not  plunge 
the  face  into  cold  water,  neither  dash  the  water  over  the  face  when  sufi'ering 
from  sunburn  or  exposure  to  wind  or  water ; the  sudden  shock  is  not  only 
injurious  to  the  whole  system,  but  has  been  known  to  permanently  deface  the 
complexion  by  a species  of  tanning  which  left  a brown  or  yellow  tinge  impos- 
sible to  efface.  Or  use  Queen  Bess  Complexion  Wash.  Put  in  a vial  one 
drachm  of  benzoin  gum  in  pow'de-r,  one  drachm  nutmeg-oil,six  drops  of  orange- 
blossom  tea,  or  apple-blossoms  put  in  half  pint  rain-water,  and  boiled  down  to 
one  tea-spoonful  and  strained,  one  pint  of  sherry  wine.  Bathe  the  face 
morning  and  night;  wull  remove  all  flesh- worms  and  freckles,  and  give  a 
beautiful  complexion.  Or,  put  one  ounce  of  powdered  gum  of  benzoin  in 
pint  of  whiskey ; to  use,  put  some  in  water  in  wash-bowl  till  latter  is  milky, 
wash  with  it ; allowing  it  to  dry  without  wiping.  This  is  perfectly  harmless. 

The  Hair. — Combs  of  tortoise-shell,  bone  or  rubber,  with  not  very  sharp 
teeth  should  be  used  Sharp  teeth  injure  the  scalp  and  produce  dandrufi. 
Two  brushes,  one  hard,  to  clean  the  hair  and  scalp,  and  the  other  soft,  to 
smooth  and  polish,  are  best.  Clean  brushes  by  rubbing  them  with  bran,  or 
wash  with  one  part  ammcmia  and  two  of  water.  Combing  or  brushing 


THE  ARTS  or  THE  TOILET. 


1195 


should  be  done  in  the  natural  direction  of  the  hair,  and  never  against  it.  In 
the  proper  way  it  can  not  be  brushed  too  much.  To  keep  the  scalp  clean 
wash  in  tepid  water  with  a little  pure  soap  in  it,  rinse  in  pure  water,  dry  wdth 
towels,  and  then  in  the  sun  or  by  the  fire.  Oily  hair  maybe  washed  once  a 
week,  light  hair  less  often.  Some  occupations  require  that  it  should  be  washed 
much  oftener.  All  preparations  for  the  hair  are  more  or  less  injurious. 
Healthy  hair  has  enough  oil  of  its  own,  and  the  application  of  foreign  oil 
destroys  its  vitality.  Preparations  containing  alcohol  fade  hair,  and  make  it 
brittle.  The  only  dme  oil  is  admissable  is  after  washing.  The  best  prepar- 
ation is  one  part  of  glycerine  to  three  of  rose-water.  Powders  made  of  starch, 
when  used,  must  be  washed  out  of  the  hair  to  prevent  injury.  Those  made 
of  colored  glass  are  very  injurious,  cutting  and  otherwise  damaging  the  hair. 
At  night,  the  hair  should  be  loosened  and  left  free.  Night-caps  are  a relic  of 
barbarism.  Hair-dyes  are  very  injurious,  as  they  contain  more  or  less  sugar 
of  lead,  nitrate  of  silver,  and  other  ingredients,  which  affect  the  brain,  pro- 
duce paralysis,  infiammation  of  the  eyes,  and  impairment  of  sight.  Gray 
hairs  are  an  indication  that  the  hair-producing  organs  are  weakening.  AVhen 
found  they  should  be  cut  down  to  the  healthy  part,  and  the  head  should  be 
exposed  as  much  as  possible,  except  in  the  middle  of  the  day,  to  the  sun  and 
air.  When  hair  falls  out,  it  indicates  a disease  of  the  scalp.  To  cure,  dip 
the  head  twice  a day  in  cold  water  and  rub  with  a brush  until  a glow  is  pro- 
duced. In  case  the  hair  is  too  long  to  wet,  brush  until  a glow  is  produced, 
and  then  rub  into  the  roots  a wash  made  of  three  drachms  of  pure  glycerine 
and  four  ounces  of  lime-water. 

The  Feet. — The  largest  pores  in  the  body  are  located  in  the  bottom  of  the 
feet.  For  this  reason  the  feet  should  be  frequently  and  thoroughly  washed, 
and  the  stockings  changed  often.  If  great  cleanliness  is  not  observed,  these 
great  pores  become  absorbent,  and  the  poisons  given  off  are  taken  back  into 
the  system.  The  nails  ought  to  be  cut  squarely.  Blisters  may  be  prevented 
by  rubbing  the  feet  after  washing,  with  glycerine.  Bunions  are  caused  by 
w^earing  shoes  too  tight  or  too  short.  They  are  difficult  to  get  rid  of,  but  may 
be  alleviated  by  wearing  easy-fitting  shoes,  poulticing  and  putting  a rubber 
ring  around  the  spot.  Corns,  which  are  caused  by  continued  pressure  on 
the  foot,  may  be  prevented  by  wearing  woolen  stockings  and  shoes  that  fit 
well.  They  are  known  as  hard  and  soft,  but  their  difference  is  entirely  owing 
to  locality.  If  a corn  is  situated  between  the  toes,  where  it  is  kept  moist  by 
perspiration,  it  is  of  the  soft  variety ; but,  if  located  on  the  outside  of  the  toe, 
where  it  could  get  no  moisture,  it  would  necessarily  be  hard.  They  are  pro- 
duced by  pressure  or  friction,  and  are  simply  a protective  growth  thrown  out 
for  the  purpose  of  preventing  the  tissues  being  injured.  They  are  sufficiently 
painful  at  all  times,  but  they  are  the  most  unbearable  when  an  accumulation 
of  pus  takes  place  beneath  them.  The  escape  of  this  drop  of  pus  is  prevented 
by  the  hardened  and  thickened  outside,  which  must  be  poulticed  or  soaked 
in  warm  water,  and  then  removed  by  a sharp  pointed  knife.  The  entire  corn 
can  be  taken  out  with  a little  care  and  patient  work,  without  drawing  a drop 
of  blood.  The  application  of  caustics  should  be  avoided  in  the  treatment  of 
corns,  especially  in  old  people,  as  fatal  gangrenous  inflammation  may  be  the 
result.  Temporary  relief  from  a painful  sore  corn  may  readily  be  obtained 
by  applying  strong  carblic  acid.  Take  the  cork  out  of  a small  bottle  of  car- 
bolic, and  apply  it  (the  cork)  to  the  corn.  Relief  will  come  at  once,  and  you 
will  be  enabled  to  walk  with  comparative  comfort  till  you  can  find  time  to 
remove  the  corn  with  a knife.  Hard  corns  may  be  treated  as  follows  : Take 
aThick  piece  of  soft  leather  or  felt,  cut  a hole  in  the  center.  Upon  going  to 
bed  at  night,  fill  the  hole  in  the  center  of  the  leather  with  a paste  made  of 
soda  and  soap ; wash  it  off  in  the  morning,  and  repeat  the  process  for  several 
nights  and  the  corn  will  be  removed.  Half  a cranberry,  or  a piece  of  lemon, 
bound  upon  a corn  will  soon  kill  it. 


1196 


THE  ARTS  OF  THE  TOILET. 


Perfumery. — The  following  receipts  are  of  choice  perfumes,  and  are  made 
by  compounding  the  articles  in  each  receipt,  and  then  adding  as  much  dis- 
tilled water  as  can  be  mixed,  and  not  have  it  become  milky,  which  will  vary 
from  two  to  eight  ounces,  according  to  the  perfume ; then  add  deodorized 
alcohol  until  there  are  two  quarts  of  perfumery : 

Essence  Bouquet. — Four  ounces  extract  musk,  two  of  extract  tube  rose, 
one  drachm  otto  rose  virgin,  and  one-fourth  drachm  otto  bergamot,  one- 
half  drachm  each  otto  neroli  super  and  red  cedar  wood,  eight  minims  otto 
verbena  (true),  ten  of  bimento,  three  of  patchouly,  twelve  of  English  laven- 
der ; add  water  and  alcohol  as  above. 

Jockey  Club. — Five  ounces  extract  jasmine,  twenty  of  extract  orris,  seven 
of  extract  musk,  one  and  one-half  extract  vanilla,  one  and  one-half  drachms 
each  of  otto  rose  virgin  and  santal  flor,  two  and  one-half  otto  bergamot,  and 
two  of  benzoic  acid,  forty  minims  otto  neroli  super ; water  and  alcohol  as 
above. 

Patchouly. — Two  drachms  each  otto  pachouly  and  styrax,  eight  ounces 
each  extract  musk  and  orris,  four  of  vanilla,  and  forty  minims  each  santal 
for  and  rose  virgin ; water  and  alcohol  as  above. 

Wood  Violet. — Twelve  ounces  extract  orris,  two  of  tube  rose,  and  of  jas- 
mine, four  of  musk,  two  drachms  otto  of  bergamot,  one  of  English  lavender 
ten  minims  verbena  (true),  twelve  minims  amygdala  amar  (any  druggist  will 
have  it),  six  minims  coriander,  and  four  minims  sweet  flag,  and  one  and  ti 
half  drachm  benzoic  acid ; water  and  alcohol  as  above. 

West  End. — Twelve  ounces  of  extract  orris,  four  extract  of  jasmine,  eight 
of  extract  musk,  four  of  extract  cassia,  one  of  extract  styrax,  three  drachms 
otto  bergamot,  one  and  one-half  neroli  super,  and  one  each  of  otto  rose  vii  - 
gin,  red-cedar  wood  (true)  and  benzoic  acid ; water  and  alcohol  as  above. 

Tube  Rose. — Twenty-four  ounces  extract  tube  rose,  four  of  musk,  one  ©f 
jasmine,  one  drachm  otto  rose  virgin,  two  of  benzoic  acid,  and  ten  minims 
of  otto  neroli  super;  water  and  alcohol  as  above. 

Stephenotis. — Four  ounces  each  extract  cassia  and  tube  rose,  eight  each 
of  musk  and  orris,  two  of  jasmine,  three  of  tonka,  one  drachm  each  otto  rose 
virgin  and  benzoic  acid,  one-half  drachm  otto  neroli  super ; water  and  alco- 
hol same  as  above. 

Rondeletia. — One  ounce  otto  English  lavender,  two  each  of  musk  and 
vanilla,  four  of  orris,  half  ounce  each  otto  cloves  and  bergamot,  two  drachms 
otto  rose  geranium  (Turkey),  one  of  benzoic  acid,  twenty  minims  true  otto 
cinnamon,  ten  minims  otto  rose  virgin,  one  of  santal  flor;  water  and  alcohol 
as  above. 

New-Mown  Hay. — Twenty-five  ounces  extract  tonka,  six  of  musk,  eight 
of  orris,  one  of  vanilla,  one  drachm  each  extract  styrax,  bergamot  and  santal 
flor,  and  one  and  a half  of  benzoic  acid,  fifteen  minims  otto  neroli  super,  ten 
each  of  otto  rose  virgin,  lavender  (English)  and  patchouly,  and  six  minims 
otto  of  cloves. 

Simple  — Garden  perfumes  are  charming  in  linen  when  put  away  in 
drawers.  For  the  handkerchief  the  perfume,  is  more  delicate,  and  much 
more  desirable  than  the  stronger  odors  so  freely  used.  Always  preserve  the 
trimmings  of  rose-geraniums,  in  envelopes,  for  such  purposes,  and  lay  in 
plenty  of  sweet  clover  when  in  blossom. 


THE  FLOWER  GARDEN. 


197 


THE  FLOWEH  ChAHHElSr. 


By  R.  Rennie  McGill. 


The  culture  of  flowers  is  the  most  interesting  occupation  in  the  world— 
\%  never-ending  source  of  delight.  Where  else  can  we  find  for  the  body  and 
mind  a recreation  so  beautiful,  so  instructive,  or  that  will  aflTord  more  last' 
tng  pleasure,  than  that  of  tending  for  the  floral  emblems  of  God’s  love? 
What  would  the  world  be  without  flowers?  Thanks  to  the  all- wise  Creator 
we  find  them  everywhere.  On  mountain  top,  in  shady  dell,  midst  towerinjj 
rocks  and  along  the  banks  of  rippling  brooks.  They  are  as  free  as  the  air 
we  breathe,  and  who  shall  say  they  do  not  teach  of  our  Father’s  love,  wis- 
dom and  w'ondrous  power  ? Whose  head  but  His  could  put  this  exquisite 
coloring  into  the  Jacqueminot  Rose,  or  design  the  curious  petals  of  the  Pas- 
sion flower?  Beautiful  objects  as  these  are  to  the  naked  eye,  how  much 
more  so  do  they  become  even  under  the  simplest  form  of  a microscope.  We 
may  take  the  keenest  razor  that  can  be  obtained,  place  it  under  a microscope, 
and  the  edge  will  appear  jagged,  coarse  and  rough,  and  full  of  imperfections. 
Not  so  with  Nature’s  handiwork,  for  the  more  critically  it  is  examined,  the 
more  its  hidden  perfections  surprise  us,  and  we  are  forced  to  exclaim:  “0 
Lord ! how  manifold  are  thy  works ; in  wisdom  hast  thou  made  them  all. 

' The  culture  of  flow^ers  teaches  industry,  patience  and  hope.  No  one  ex- 
pects flowers  to  grow  on  hard,  uncultivated  ground ; hence  we  must  spade  it 
or  plow  it,  then  industriously  weed  it,  or  else  our  plants  would  soon  be  choked 
up.  We  sow  the  seeds  in  hope  that  they  will  spring  and  reward  our  care  by 
producing  beautiful  flowers,  and  we  must  cultivate  the  virtue  of  patience  be- 
cause some  plants  are  great  sluggards,  while  the  tendency  of  men  and  things 
in  this  age  is  to  be  in  a hurry.  The  industry  with  which  this  recreation  haa 
been  pursued,  shows  itself  plainly  in  the  great  number  of  the  highly  im- 
proved plants  which  adorn  the  gardens  of  the  present  day  in  contrast  to  those 


1198 


THE  FLOWER  GARDEN. 


which  were  cultivated  some  fifty  years  ago.  Take,  for  instance,  the  Pansy, 
a flower  that  is  universally  known  and  loved  the  world  over.  It  is  only  a 
little  more  than  half  a century  ago  that  the  improvements  began  in  this  little 
flower.  A few  years  ago  there  were  but  few  books  or  magazines  published 
devoted  to  flowers ; now  there  is  hardly  a periodical  but  that  has  at  least  one  . 
or  more  columns  relating  to  the  subject,  while  floricultural  books,  magazines 
and  catalogues  are  scattered  broadcast  all  over  the  land.  Many  of  these  are 
highly  embellished  with  beautiful  engravings  and  colored  plates  which 
create  a desire  for  possession  of  plants  thus  pictured.  In  this  way  the  florist’s 
business  has  assumed  enormous  proportions  so  that  it  is  quite  common  to 
meet  with  a greenhouse  in  a town  of  very  few  hundred  inhabitants.  It  is  a 
wholesome  occupation.  Ladies  who  fancied  themselves  so  completely  broken 
down  in  health  that  they  have  wished  for  death,  in  several  instances 
which  have  come  under  my  observation  have  been  induced  to  take  a little 
exercise  daily  among  the  flowers.  The  desire  to  do  something  took  posses- 
sion of  the  patient,  the  effort  of  setting  out  a plant  here,  pulling  a weed  there, 
scratching  the  surface  of  the  soil  with  a light  rake  became  a pleasure,  and 
while  they  were  doing  this  they  were  slowly  and  surely  returning  to  health. 
The  slight  action  necessary  to  labor  with  the  few  tools  needed  for  ladies’ 
gardening  operation  is  just  sufficient  to  set  the  blood  into  proper  activity,  and 
in  every  instance  that  I recommended  it,  I have  been  told  that  it  worked 
wonders.  A few  years  ago  it  was  considered  unwholesome  to  have  plants  in 
the  house,  but  it  has  been  proved  by  the  most  positive  demonstration  that 
such  is  not  the  case.  And  here  let  me  introduce  a few  lines  from  a correspon- 
dent. ‘^Flowers  form  one  of  the  most  important  factors  in  civilization.  It 
seems  to  have  pleased  the  all- wise  maker  of  the  universe  to  beautify  the  hilh 
sides,  the  valley,  the  forest,  and  even  the  low  ground  that  is  nearly  or  quite 
covered  with  water  with  lovely  and  beautiful  flowers.  Then  why  should  not 
man,  who  was  made  after  the  image  of  his  Maker,  and  has  some  of  those  long- 
ings for  the  beautiful  and  the  perfect  follow  such  a pleasing  example  and  culti- 
vate the  flowers  that  have  been  given  him  so  plentifully  and  thereby  beau- 
tify his  home  ?”  Flowers  are  associated  with  all  that  is  bright  and  beautiful 
on  earth.  They  have  a language  and  they  speak  to  us  of  Nature  and  Nature’s 
God.  The  following  beautiful  lines  so  thoroughly  echo  my  feelings  that  I 
feel  safe  in  advising  all  to  make  use  of  the  sentiments  conveyed  in  them ; 

Make  your  home  beautiful— bring  to  it  flowers. 

Plant  them  around  you  to  bud  and  to  bloom; 

Let  them  give  light  to  your  loneliest  hours— 

Let  them  give  light  to  enliven  your  gloom. 

If  you  can  do  so,  0 make  it  an  Eden 

Of  beauty  and  gladness  almost  divine; 

’Twill  teach  you  to  long  for  that  home  you  are  heeding, 

The  earth  robed  in  beauty  beyond  this  dark  clina*,” 


THE  FLOWER  GARDEN. 


1199 


THE  OUT  DOOR  GARDEN. 

As  to  the  exact  situation  for  a flower  garden,  it  is  not  always  in  our 
power  to  choose.  A level  spot,  however,  is  preferred,  for  if  it  slopes  to  any 
extent,  heavy  rains  will  wash  away  the  soil.  The  best  location  is  one  having 
a southern  aspect,  sheltered  from  the  north  and  west  winds.  A location 
which  lies  to  some  other  aspect,  the  east  for  example  will  answer,  but  an 
inclination  to  the  north  or  w^est  or  any  point  between  these  should  be 
avoided  if  possible. 

The  soil  must  be  rich.  In  our  western  country  it  is  abundantly  fertile, 
but  if  it  is  not  so,  it  must  be  brought  into  that  condition  by  heavy  manuring 
and  deep  working.  If  it  is  clayey  and  heavy,  sand  will  make  it  light,  and  if 
it  is  too  sandy,  wood  ashes  and  well  rotted  manure  will  be  of  great  benefit  to 
it.  Have  it  made  deep,  rich  and  dry — not  too  dry — and  you  have  what  is 
wanted  for  your  flower  garden  as  far  as  soil  is  concerned.  If  the  ground  is 
very  poor,  it  will  pay  to  cart  it  oH-  altogether  and  replace  it  with  better. 
That  which  may  be  obtained  from  an  old  cow  pasture  is  the  best  for  this  pur- 
pose I have  ever  found.  Where  decayed  forest  leaves  can  be  had,  a portion 
maybe  advantageously  mixed  with  the  soil. 

The  best  time  to  commence  a flower  garden  is  in  the  Autumn,  so  that  by 
the  middle  of  October  the  beds  may  be  in  readiness  to  receive  the  bulbous 
and  many  of  the  herbaceous  plants  and  such  shrubs  as  are  usually  set  out  at 
that  season.  The  work  therefore  may  for  this  be  commenced  in  say  Sep- 
tember ; if  it  must  be  deferred  until  Spring  let  work  be  begun  then  at  the 
earliest  moment  the  soil  will  work  without  sticking  to  the  spade.  But  as 
Autumn  is  decidedly  the  best  time,  we  will  proceed  to  the  laying  out  of  the 
flower  garden.  The  writer  is  not  what  is  known  as  a landscape  gardener, 
nor  is  it  his  design  to  give  elaborate  plans,  for  those  who  can  afford  to  lay 
out  a garden  in  a luxurious  manner  will  be  likely  to  call  in  the  services  of  an 
expert.  As  to  the  style,  it  may  be  either  square,  round,  oblong  or  irregular, 
and  in  such  manner  as  the  taste  of  the  owner  may  suggest.  It  is  usually 
most  convenient  to  lay  off  the^ground  into  beds,  or  walks  may  be  made  and 
the  adjoining  ground  planted  with  shrubs  or  low  ornamental  trees  for  a back- 
ground and  in  front  of  the.se  tall-gnowing  herbaceous  perennial  plants  may 
find  a place.  Let  the  garden  be  leveled,  the  walks  laid  out,  and  dug  out  as 
w'ell  if  it  is  proposed  to  fill  them  in  with  gravel,  broken  bricks  or  small 
stones  ; the  next  thing  in  order  will  be  the  edging.  For  this  purpose  there  is 
nothing  to  my  mind  so  neat  as  box,  but  it  is  seldom  seen  now-a-days,  indeed 
I can  not  call  to  mind  having  seen  a garden  in  the  West  where  the  edgings 
are  made  of  box.  Grass  makes  a neat  edging  where  it  is  well  kept ; pinks, 
toG,  make  a pretty  and  fragrant  edging,  and  one  of  the  Sedums  which  bears 
a star-like  yellow  flower  is  very  pretty,  but  needs  frequent  trimming  to  keep 
it  within  bounds, — any  or  all  of  these  may  be  used  by  way  of  a border. 

There  are  some  who  will  not  go  to  all  the  trouble  to  lay  out  a flower  gar- 
den. A simple  way  then  is  to  make  one  upon  the  grass,  as  the  beds  are 
simply  cut  out . of  the  lawm,  then  raised  in  the  middle  so  that  water  will 
run  ofi"  and  then  planted.  This  system  can  be  elaborated  to  a wonderful 
extent,  as  those  who  may  have  seen  the  so  called  “carpet  beds”  in  the  South 
Park  of  Chicago  wdli  admit.  The  plan  is  wrought  out  by  putting  together 
various  low  grow'ing  plants  so  that  when  grown  they  represent  the  design  of 
the  artist,  sometimes  a dial,  again  some  prominent  man.  Indeed  there  is  no 
end  to  w'hat  may  be  done  in  this  way,  although  it  requires  a great  many 
plants.  The  little  star  and  ribbon  beds  are  made  by  first  cutting  the  bed,  to 
the  proper  shape,  and  then  filling  in  with  plants  whose  flowers  will  produce 
the  colors  desired.  One  of  the  most  beautiful  stars  of  an  azure  blue  was 
wrought  out  with  sky  blue  pansies.  A graceful  ribbon  bed  had  tall  growing 
asters  for  the  back  ground,  followed  by  lines  of  verbenas  and  phloxes  of  var- 


1200 


THE  FLOWER  GARDEN. 


ious  colors.  Two  beds  that  I made  years  ago  were  constructed  thus  : For 
centre  of  circle,  a white  foliage  plant,  cineraria  maritima,  around  that  a ring  of 
golden  phyrethrum,  next  a circle  of  Master  Christine  geranium,  (light  pink), 
the  whole  edged  with  blue  lobelia.  The  ribbon  bed  had  dahlias  for  the  back 
ground,  then  a line  of  perilla,  a dark  level  foliage  plant,  n^t  a row  of  scar- 
let flowered  geraniums,  then  a line  of  dwarf  yellow  coleus,  and  the  outside 
row  of  all, verbenas.  In  addition  there  should  be  other  beds  reserved  for  plant 
ing  of  choice  bulbs  and  the  small  annuals  that  are  not  showy  except  in  masses. 
Three  feet  square  is  a fair  size  for  such  beds,  though  they  may  be  propor- 
tioned to  the  size  of  the  garden,  but  above  all  things  do  not  contract  the 
walks  at  the  expense  of  the  appearance  of  your  garden, 

WHAT  TO  PLANT. 

The  garden  being  prepared  in  the  fall  of  the  year  as  suggested,  roots  of 
herbaceous  plants  may  be  procured  and  set  out.  Among  those  w^hich  now 
occur  to  me  are  Hollyhocks,  Sweet  Williams,  Phloxes,  Canterbury-bells, 
Red-hot  Poker  Plant,  Columbine  and  Golden  Rod.  The  common  or  popular 
name  is  purposely  given.  Ail  are  easily  cultivated  for  as  a rule  they  will 
grow  where  anything  will.  Once  in  three  years  they  should  be  divided  and 
transplanted.  Division  should  be  done  either  at  the  end  of  Summer  or  at 
the  time  of  making  garden  in  the  Spring. 

ABOUT  LILIES. 

. All  lilies  should  be  moved  in  the  fall,  say  October,  and  when  they  are 
to  be  grown  in  beds  let  these  be  about  three  feet  v/ide  and  as  long  as  you 
please.  Put  the  lily  bulbs  in  deep — not  less  than  six  inches — and  keep  a 
mulch  or  covering  of  straw  over  them  the  first  year.  Old,  half-decayed 
leaves  from  the  woods  is  the  very  best  for  the  purpose,  but  when  these  can 
not  be  obtained  straw  will  do  very  well.  Lilies  form  tw'o  sets  of  roots ; the 
first  start  from  the  base  of  the  bulbs  shortly  after  planting  and  remain  as 
long  as  there  is  life  in  the  bulb.  When  the  flower  stem  is  formed  another 
set  of  roots  growls  on  top  of  the  bulbs  whereby  the, species  is  increased,  for 
among  these  the  young  bulbs  are  found.  Nearly  all  of  the  hardy  lilies  thrive 
best  in  a cool,  moist  soil,  one  that  does  not  become  hard  and  dry  in  Summer, 
bt  is  not  necessary,  however,  to  plant  them  in  wet,  boggy  soils,  but  a soil  that 
7s  constantly  moist  is  preferable  to  one  that  parts  with  all  its  moisture  in 
) ime  of  drought. 

Some  lilies  do  better  in  boxes  than  in  the  garden,  particuly  Auratum, 
Candidum  and  Brownii,  The  pot,  box,  or  tub  should  be  large  enough  to  hold 
at  least  one  peck  of  soil,  which  should  be  good  garden  soil,  rather  sandy. 
Set  the  bulb  at  least  six  inches  below  the  surface  of  the  soil,  and  press  firmly 
with  the  hand.  Give  water  enough  to  keep  them  from  drying  away — little 
while  resting — plenty  when  growing.  Set  anywhere  until  severe  cold  weather, 
then  remove  to  the  cellar.  If  kept  too  warm,  a spindling  growth  will  result. 
When  mild  weather  comes  bring  them  to  the  air  and  liglit. 

The  so-called  ‘‘Easter  Lily”  (L.  Candidum)  and  Lily  of  Purity  (L. 
Harrisii),  the  latter  being  an  improvement  of  the  old  L.  Langijiorum,  bear 
forcing,  that  is  by  a certain  treatment  are  made  to  bloom  outside  of  their 
natural  season.  These  two  varieties  are  most  extensively  grown  by  commer- 
cial florists  to  produce  cut  flowers  for  Easter.  Mr.  Peter  Henderson,  who 
probably  stands  at  the  head  of  the  florist’s  profession  in  America,  says  that 
the  method  is  to  pot  the  Candidum  bulbs  in  six-inch  pots  any  time  from 
September  until  the  fore  part  of  December,  sinking  the  pot  containing  the 
earlv  potted  bulbs  out  of  doors  in  a sheltered  warm  spot,  and  covering  wdth 
leaves  as  cold  weather  approaches,  so  they  shall  not  get  frozen  at  any  time. 


THE  FLOWER  GARDEN. 


1201 


Those  that  are  potted  later,  say  from  the  middle  of  November,  should  be 
plunged  in  the  same  way  in  a cool  greenhouse  or  in  a cold  frame.  This  last 
is  simply  an  ordinary  hot-bed  frame  having  a glass  cover.  When  the  pots 
are  filled  with  roots,  they  may  be  brought  to  a higher  temperature,  say  55°  at 
night,  and  10°  to  15°  higher  in  the  day-time.  If  the  pots  are  well  filled  with 
roots,  the  bulbs  will  come  into  bloom  from  eight  to  ten  weeks  after  being 
placed  in  that  temperature.  The  treatment  as  given  will  answer  also  for  the 
Lily  of  Purity,  except  that  it  should  first  be  put  in  four-inch  pots  and  remain 
there  until  the  plant  is  three  or  four  inches  high.  Then  change  to  a six-inch 
putting  the  ball  on  the  bottom,  so  that  all  or  nearly  all  of  the  new  soil  is  on 
top  of  the  bulb.  Soon  after  flowering  this  variety  wdll  show  a disposition  to 
rest,  and  it  may  remain  in  the  pot  or  box  until  September.  Then  repot  and 
treat  as  before,  but  after  two  years  of  this  forcing  the  bulb  will  have  become 
exhausted  that  it  will  be  advisable  to  plant  it  in  the  lily  bed  out-doors  to 
recuperate. 

There  are  so  many  lilies  in  cultivation  that  the  inexperienced  are  often 
unable  to  decide  upon  what  they  should  purchase.  Let  such  by  way  of  a 
beginning  get  a bulb  of  each  of  these,  Auratum.  Candidum,  Lancifolum- 
rubrum  and  album,  Harrisii  and  double  Tiger.  When  one  has  learn  to  grow 
these  successfully  then  money  may  be  invested  in  the  more  costly,  but  beau- 
tiful Brownii  and  the  California  lilies. 

HOLLAND  BULBS. 

The  person  who  would  have  a beautiful  flower  garden  from  the  earliest 
days  of  returning  spring,  must  procure  and  plant  in  the  fall,  some  of  the  so- 
called  Holland  Bulbs.  These  consist  of  Hyacinths,  Tulips,  Narcissuses,  Cro- 
cuses, Snowdrops  and  others.  The  soil  for  bulbs  should  contain  a liberal 
proportion  of  sand — at  least  one  third.  In  planting,  always  measure  the 
depth  from  the  top  of  the  bulb.  Small  bulbs  and  tubes,  such  as  crocus, 
snowdrop,  Spanish  iris,  ranunculus  and  anemone,  should  be  planted  about 
two  inches  deep;  tulips  and  narcissuses,  three  inches;  hyacinths,  four 
inches ; and  crown  imperials,  five.  The  cost  of  these  bulbs  has  been  so 
greatly  reduced  in  late  years,  that  an  almost  nominal  sum  put  into  them 
will  amply  repaj^  for  the  very  slight  labor  that  is  required  to  bring  them  into 
bloom.  Cover  the  buds  thoroughly  after  the  frost  sets  in,  with  four  or  six 
inches  of  old  manure,  hay,  straw,  or  dry  leaves.  Plant  the  bulbs  where  they 
need  not  be  disturbed  for  several  years,  especially  the  narcissuses  and  snow- 
drops. Hyacinths,  crocuses  and  tulips  should  be  taken  up  every  third  year. 
This  should  be  done  after  the  bulbs  ripen  in  the  summer. 

What  has  been  said  will  bring  us  up  to  the  closing  months  of  the  year, 
a time  when  little  or  no  further  work  can  be  done  in  the  flower  garden,  so  try 
head  work  during  the  winter.  Make  a definite  plan  of  the  arrangement  of 
the  beds  for  next  summer,  and  the  effects  your  proposed  combination  are 
likely  to  produce.  It  is  customary  in  the  larger  gardens  to  draw  diagrams 
ot  the  flower  beds  upon  paper,  and  color  these  with  such  tints  as  they  will  be 
likely  to  assume  when  in  flower.  Bead  up  all  good  literature  bearing  on  this 
subject ; decide  upon  what  you  want  to  purchase  in  the  way  of  trees,  shrubs, 
plants,  bulbs  or  seeds  ; make  out  your  order  early,  and  place  it  in  the  hands 
of  some  reliable  person,  for  execution.  Deal  always  with  principals; — no 
agents, — then  if  any  thing  turns  out  contrary  to  expectations ; a pleasant 
letter  to  the  person  or  firm,  from  whom  you  purchased,  will  generally  bring 
about  a satisfactory  settlement. 

SPRING  FLOWERS. 

The  advent  of  spring  is  usually’ announced  by  the  bloom  of  the  crocuses 
and  snowdrops;  indeed  thev  are  often  seen  pushing  their  pretty  flowers 

76 


1202 


THE  FLOWER  GARDEN. 


through  the  snow.  As  soon  as  may  be  after  this,  remove  the  litter  which 
has  lain  upon  the  bulb  beds,  not  all  at  once,  lest  a severe  frost  kill  the  tender 
shoots  just  peeping  above  the  ground.  Soon  the  other  bulbs  will  appear, 
the  narcissuses,  the  hyacinths,  and  the  tulips  will  add  their  beauty  and 
fragrance. 

While  the  bulbs  are  coming  rapidly  forward  into  bloom,  preparations 
for  the  garden  which  is  to  be  the  summer  glory  and  autumn  pride,  may  l)e 
attended  to.  We  will  assume  that  the  seeds  of  annuals  have  been  obtained  ; 
let  us  take  some  of  the  more  tender  varieties  and  sow  them  in  boxes  in  the 
house,  so  that  they  will  be  stout  plants  when  wanted  to  set  out  in  the  open 
ground  in  May  and  June.  'To  fill  out  some  of  ttie  beds,  verbenas,  pansies, 
phloxes  stocks,  petunias,  and  the  various  kinds  of  Japan  pinks  will  be  in 
order,  and  all  of  these  can  be  much  forwarded  into  early  bloom  by  being  sown 
in  the  house.  Cigar  boxes  are  very  handy,  but  the  bottom  must  first  be  per- 
forated, and  broken  pots  or  shells  put  in  the  bottom  for  drainage  Then  take 
good,  rich  earth  and  rub  it  through  a sieve,  or  your  fingers  will  answer,  to 
take  out  all  the  lumps.  Fill  the  boxes  and  then  carefully  sprinkle  the  seed 
over  the  surface  of  the  soil ; sift  on  enough  soil  to  cover  the  seed,  sprinkle 
with  water  very  gently,  and  then  set  in  a rather  dark  place.  If  it  is  warm, 
the  seed  will  start  earlier.  A pane  of  glass  laid  over,  or  even  a sheet  of  oiled 
paper,  is  a great  help.  If  you  can  give  them  a warm  place,  the  seeds  will 
start  sooner.  We  ]uiglit  here  sugest  the  use  of  a Hot  Bed,  but  this  requires 
more  care  in  construction  and  operation  than  an  amateur  can  be  supposed 
to  bestow.  This  is  the  way  to  proceed,  however ; A"ou  take  an  old  box,  say 
about  five  or  six  feet  long  and  three  feet  wide,  and  with  an  old  window  sash 
for  a covering,  you  have  what  gardeners  call  a Cold  Fraine.  A hole  the  size 
of  the  box  is  dug  tvro  or  three  feet  deep  and  filled  in  wdth  strawy  manure 
which  should  be  well  trampeled  down  until  full.  Put  about  six  inches  of 
soil  over  the  manure,  and  on  this  set  your  box,  carefully  heaping  the  earth 
around  the  outside  and  put  on  tlie  glass  cover.  In  a few  days  the  heat  will 
be  up,  when  the  top  must  be  opened  some  to  allow  the  firey  heat  to  escape. 
This  done,  put  in  the  seed  boxes.  But  whether  you  have  a hot  bed,  or  not, 
once  the  seeds  are  sown  let  them  remain  in  partial  darkness  several  days,  for 
the  seeds  to  swell,  and  keep  the  earth  moist ; if  the  seedlings  get  dry  even 
once,  they  are  ruined.  As  soon  as  you  see  them  sprouting  giVe  light  and  air ; 
if  not  too  cold;  or  else  the  seedlings  will  spindle  and  die.  When  the  tiny 
little  plants  have  four  or  more  leaves  ; transplant  into  small  pots  and  there 
let  them  grow  until  wanted  to  set  in  the  beds.  To  do  this,  first  dig  a hole 
and  pour  a little  water  into  it,  then  turn  the  pot  over,  strike  it  a smart  rap 
and  the  ball  of  earth  will  come  out  with  the  plant ; place  it  in  the  hole  and 
press  the  earth  around  it.  Plants  set  out  with  balls  go  right  to  growing,  and 
seldom  need  any  shading ; but  it  is  well  to  transplant  in  the  evening  or  on 
a clear  day.  In  the  open  air  towards  the  last  of  April  may  be  sown  asters, 
balsams,  candytuft,  phlox,  petunias,  zinnias,  cockscomb,  larkspur 
and  indeed  almost  any  of  the  hardy  annuals.  These  mentioned  will  bear 
transplanting.  Those  who  admire  sweet  peas  should  get  the  seed  of  thesf' 
in  the  open  ground  as  soon  as  it  can  be  worked.  Plant  about  three  inches 
deep,  and  give  brush  for  support.  Then  there  is  the  Escholotz,  a (California 
poppy),  very  showy,  having  a long  tap  root,  and  Mignonette,  which,  wiih  the 
sweet  peas^  must  be  sown  where  they  are  to  bloom,  as  they  do  not  takn 
kindly  to  transplanting. 


CLIMBING  VINES. 

Vines,  while  they  are  the  most  graceful  of  plants,  are  very  easily  culti' 
vated.  The  Maderia  vine  is  one  of  the ’easiest  grown,  and  a very  rapid 
climber.  In  the  spring  put  a tuber  in  the  f.n-ouud  as  you  would  a jmtato,  and 


THE  FLOWER  GARDEN. 


1203 


in  a very  short  time  it  will  cover  a large  space.  Dig  up  the  roots  in  fall  and 
winter,  same  as  potatoes  in  a cellar. 

For  a most  graceful  climber  and  a rapid  grower,  as  well  as  beautiful 
bell-shaped  flowers  ; there  is  nothing  equal  to  the  cobea.  The  seeds  are  very 
thin,  almost  flat,  and  require  to  be  planted  on  their  edges.  Needs  consid- 
erable heat  to  start  the  seed.  Florists  usually  supply  young  plants  for  less 
than  amateurs  can  raise  them  for.  Being  tender,  the  cobea  must  not  be  set 
out  doors  until  the  weather  is  quite  warm. 

The  cypress  vine,  both  red  and  white,  with  their  lovely  foliage,  are  very 
beautiful  trained  upon  strings.  I remember  of  a post  with  a bird-house  on 
top.  At  the  base  the  ground  was  spaded  up  in  a circle  some  three  feet  across^ 
and  c^’^press  vine  trained  from  there  upon  strings  to  the  alighting  board  of  the 
bird-house.  It  was  much  admired.  The  seeds  of  the  cypress  vine,  canna 
and  other  hard  shelled  kinds  may  be  hastened  in  germination  by  soaking  for 
24  hours  in  warm  water. 

iMaurandia  is  a somewhat  delicate  vine  that  comes  readily  from  seed. 
It  does  well  on  trellesis  or  even  brush,  such  as  given  to  support  peas.  A few 
maurandia  seeds  placed  in  a cow’s  horn,  previously  fllled  with  soil,  has  given 
us  a most  beautiful  living  screen  in  the  parlor  window.  Strings  were  woven 
backward  and  forward  for  it  to  run  upon,  and  it  has  done  well. 

Nasturtiums, — the  tall  growing  kinds,  are  pretty  grown  upon  strings  or 
trellesis  during  summer. 

Gourds,  with  their  curious  and  wonderful  forms,  are  worthy  of  culti- 
vation. One  of  the  most  singular  is  what  is  called  the  “nest-egg”,  from  the 
fact  that  the  fruit  makes  an  excellent  substitute  for  the  nest-egg  in  the 
poultry-house.  The  fruit  is  in  shape,  size  and  color,  as  near  as  can  be,  a 
counterfeit  egg.  The  dipper  gourd  is  made  by  cutting  away  the  side  of  ITer- 
cules  club.  The  so-called  sugar-trough  variety  is  useful  for  many  purposes. 

There  are  one  or  two  other  climbing  vines  which  once  grown  are  sure  to 
bocome  permanent  favorites.  These  are  the  Balsam  Apple  and  Pear  and 
Bryonopsis  Laciniata.  The  fruit  of  the  latter  is  very  attractive  and  the  foilage 
as  graceful  as  can  be  imagined. 

The  vines  that  have  been  spoken  of  are  all  annuals,  that  is,  the  seed  is 
sown  from  which  plants  spring  up,  bloom,  mature  their  seed  and  then  die 
all  in  one  season.  There  are  a few  vines  whose  roots  are  perennial,  and 
which  may  be  grown  from  seed  sown  in  Autumn.  One  of  these  is  the  Alle- 
gheny Vine,  or  Mountain  Fringe.  It  is  quite  common  in  the  woods  in  East- 
ern States,  but  I have  never  seen  it  wild  elsewhere.  For  beautiful  featherly- 
like  foliage  and  gracefulness  it  has  no  equal.  It  stands  our  severe  Iowa 
winters  with  impunity. 

The  Everlasting  Sweet  Pea  is  another  beautiful  plant  which  grows  to  a 
wonderful  size  with  age.  Its  flowers  much  resembles  the  ordinary  Sweet 
Peas  only  that  they  are  flrmer,  and,  I think,  more  fragrant. 

For  covering  a wall  there  is  nothing  equal  to  a well-established  Wisteria. 
It  produces  lovely  purple  flowers  in  great  clusters  which  hang  down  like 
• bunches  of  grapes.  It  has  the  disadvantage  of  being  rather  a slow  grower, 
requiring  from  five  to  seven  years  to  get  thoroughly  established,  Those  who 
can  patiently  wait,  however,  will  be  amply  rewarded,  for  it  is  a most  mag- 
nificent vine. 

The  Trumpet  Creeper  and  Honeysuckle  are  hardy  as  oaks,  and  are  not 
excelled  as  vines  to  cover  porches,  outhouses,  etc. 

BEDDING  PLANTS. 

The  plants  that  are  chiefly  used  for  this  purpose  are  geraniums,  coleus, 
verbenas,  and  roses.  There  are  others  which  are  admirably  adapted,  but 
are  not  near  so  popular  as  these  I have  named.  The  shapes  of  the  beds  may 


1204 


THE  FLOWER  GARDEN. 


be  as  previously  given  ; but  while  beds  constructed  after  those  plans  are  very 
handsome,  I am  more  in  favor  of  oblong  beds,  say  ten  or  fifteen  feet  long,  and 
five  or  six  feet  wide.  The  center  will  afford  space  for  tall  growing  plants, 
while  those  of  dwarf  habit  can  be  planted  in  the  front.  To  my  mind, 
the  prettiest  flower  beds  are  those  which  have  plenty  of  clean  bright  grass 
around  them  for  a back-ground. 

Most  people  make  it  a rule  to  have  some  house  plants  in  winter,  and  of 
these,  geraniums,  as  a rule,  will  be  found  in  the  greatest  proportion.  AVhen 
spring  comes  it  is  customary  to  plant  them  out  of  doors  just  as  soon  as  the 
days  begin  to  grow  warm,  and  often  many  plants  are  lost  because  they 
were  not  sufficiently  hardened  to  undergo  the  change  of  temperature  from 
the  house  to  the  open  air.  A better  plan  is  to  wait  until  the  nights  are 
warm,  and  in  a northern  latitude,  from  the  middle  to  the  last  of  May  is  early 
enough  to  put  them  out  of  doors,  and  it  is  well  even  then  to  place  them 
on  a covered  porch  for  a day  or  two. 

Coleus,  more  poj^ularly  known  as  foliage  plants,  are  in  great  demand  for 
bedding.  They  are  cultivated  for  the  beautiful  leaf  markings,  the  flowers 
being  insignificant.  There  are  some  hundreds  of  varieties,  some  differing  as 
much  in  habit  and  color  as  day  and  night,  while  there  are  other  sorts  which 
require  the  practical  eye  of  an  expert  to  detect  any  difference. 

Heliotropes  and  Lantanas  make  excellent  bedding  plants.  They  bloom 
freely,  are  easily  grown  and  need  no  part  icular  attention. 

The  A^erbena  is  one  of  the  most  popular  bedding  plants  in  cultivation.  It 
is  grown  readily  from  seed,  and  embraces  nearly  every  shade  of  color  in  its 
flowers.  They  do  best  in  a piece  of  new  ground,  such  as  can  be  cut  out  of  a 
grass  plot  in  "front  of  the  house,  removing  the  sods  and  digging  the  ground 
thoroughly,  One  plant  in  ground  so  prepared  wffll  cover  from  three  to  five 
feet  of  space. 

The  Pansy  is  a splendid  bedding  plant.  It  does  best  in  a partially  shaded 
situation.  The  north  side  of  a house,  for  instance. 

For  brilliancy  in  color  and  duration  in  bloom,  nathing  can  equal  Phlox 
Drummondi.  The  Candytuft,  in  mixture,  Clarkia  and  Nemophila  all  look 
pretty  each  grown  in  a mass.  This  is  done  by  sowing  the  seed  where  it  is 
intended  they  should  bloom. 

One  of  tiie  most  beautiful  beds  the  writer  possessed  was  composed  of 
Balsams  in  many  varieties.  Another  beautiful  one  was  composed  of  Ger- 
mantown week  stock. 

I have  in  mind  a garden  in  New  Jersey  which  was  amass  of  flowers  from 
early  Spring  until  late  Fall,  and  nearly  all  were  what  one  calls  herbaceous 
perennials.  The  roots  of  these  live  over  winter  and  go  on  increasing  with 
great  rapidity.  All  the  care  needed  is  division  of  the  roots  once  in  two  or 
three  years.  Of  these,  I have  in  mind  a dozen  or  more  varieties  of  Poenies, 
Phloxes,  Lychnis,  Columbines,  Canterbury  Bells,  and  some  others  whose 
names  I do  not  nov^  remember.  The  Sweet  William  and  the  China  Pink 
were  there,  too,  in  great  abundance. 

SHRUBS. 

There  is  nothing  which  can  impart  a greater  charm  to  the  yard  about 
the  house,  than  a few  well  grown  shrubs.  They  need  not  be  many,  and  they 
need  not  be  of  expensive  varieties.  Some  of  the  old  kinds  are  still  the  be»t 
for  general  use.  because  they  are  quite  as  beautiful  as  the  newer  sorts  and 
we  know  how  to  treat  them  so  that  there  will  be  no  experiment  in  undertaking 
their  cultivation.  The  deutzias  are  all  fine,  so  are  the  spireas  and  weige- 
lias.  For  places  where  a large  bush  is  wanted,  there  are  the  lilacs,  the 
mock  orange,  the  hawthorns  and  viburnums.  For  trellesis,  you  can  get 
nothing  better  than  the  hardy  honeysuckle  ; they  will  give  flowers  all  the 


THE  FLOWER  GARDEN. 


1205 


season,  both  beautiful  and  fragrant.  If  you  want  the  best  effect  from  them, 
plant  the  red  and  white  varieties  together,  and  let  the  branches  of  the  two 
mingle  over  the  trellis.  They  are  excellent  plants  for  an  arch  over  the  gate 
or  porch.  The  clematis  is  another  hardy  plant  suitable  for  arbors,  etc. 

SUMMER  BLOOMING  BULBS. 

A bulb  is  really  an  underground  bud  which  contains  within  itself  the 
leaves  and  flowers  of  the  future  plant.  Further  back  we  spoke  of  planting 
the  Holland  bulb  as  they  are  called.  In  the  early  spring  aaother  planting  of 
bulbs  and  tubers  will  give  us  beautiful  flowers  in  summer. 

DAHLIAS. 

These  have  been  much  improved  of  late  years  and  are  very  showy 
flowers  which  is  all  the  recommendation  we  can  give  them,  Still  they  have 
their  admirers.  Dry  tubers  can  be  had  quite  early  in  the  spring  and  then 
are  planted  iu  pots  or  boxes  in  the  house  or  a hot  bed,  if  it  is  to  be  had,  to 
start  them.  In  May  they  may  be  planted  out  in  the  bed  or  border  whWe 
they  are  to  bloom.  The  tall  growing  kinds  will  require  tying  to  sticks.  The 
dwarf  or  pompone  varieties  are  much  in  demand  now-a-days. 

GLADIOLUS. 

These  proauce  nowers  oi  various  colors  and  are  well  worthy  of  the  very 
slight  attention  they  require.  They  are  natives  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope 
and  are  sometimes  known  as  the  “Corn  Lily,”  By  hybridization  and  culti- 
vation of  the  seedling  there  are  thousands  of  distinct  varieties  and  the  cost 
is  very  slight,  some  florists  selling  them  as  low  as  50  cents  per  dozen.  The 
bulbs  should  be  set  in  the  ground  as  soon  as  the  weather  is  settled,  in  good 
soil,  that  which  will  grow  good  corn  or  vegetables  will  answer.  Put  the 
bulbs  in  deep— about  6 inches  for  the  larger  ones,  and  the  smaller  ones  propor- 
tionately less.  In  a short  time  they  will  throw  up  spikes  which  will  grow 
two  feet  high  and  upwards  and  to  prevent  a sudden  gust  of  wind  from  break- 
ing the  spikes  off,  neat  stakes  should  be  provided  and  the  spikes  tied  to 
them.  When  done  blooming  cut  away  the  flower  spikes — not  the  leaves— 
and  allow  the  bulb  to  ripen.  It  will  be  ready  to  dig  when  the  leaves  have 
turned  dry  and  yellow.  When  dug  it  will  be  found  there  are  at  least  two 
and  often  three  bulbs  in  place  of  one  planted,  so  rapidly  do  they  increase. 
Keep  in  the  house  over  winter  in  a dry  state  and  plant  out  again  the  follow- 
ing spring. 

TUBEROSES. 

The  best  bulbs  for  flowering  are  those  which  are  large  and  plump.  Those 
which  are  wanted  to  bloom  very  early  should  be  started  in  April  or  May  in 
pots  or  boxes  of  earth  set  in  a green  house,  hot-bed  or  even  a warm  room. 
In  about  four  or  flve  weeks  later  they  may  be  put*in  the  garden,  where  they 
will  usually  bloom  in  August.  But  supposing  you,  by  some  means,  had  no 
opportunity  to  start  them  in  the  manner  suggested,  proceed  as  follows : 
Prepare  the  ground  by  deep  digging  and  apply  old  manure  liberally,  then 
first  having  removed  all  the  offsets  which  are  clustered  around  the  large  bulbs, 
plant  the  bulbs  in  rows  twelve  inches  apart,  and  six  inches  apart  in  the 
rows,  setting  them  three  inches  deep.  Keep  the  ground  at  all  times  free 
from  weeds,  and  well  stirred  up  by  the  use  of  a hoe.  After  the  first  frost, 
which  usually  occurs  in  October,  the  bulbs  should  be  lifted  and  allowed  to 
dry  in  the  sun  a day  or  two,  being  careful  to  protect  from  frost  at  night. 
When  thoroughly  dried  they  should  be  cleaned,  removing  the  leaves  and 


1206 


THE  FLOWER  GARDEN. 


allowing  two  or  three  inches  of  the  stalk  to  remain ; then  store  in  a warm 
closet  until  wanted  for  planting. 

The  very  small  bulbs  or  offsets  are  planted  like  peas  in  rows  one  foot 
apart,  six  inches  between  every  two  bulbs  in  the  row,  and  three  or  four 
inches  deep.  Cultivate  the  same  as  the  full-grown  bulbs,  and  these  offserts 
with  two  years’  cultivation  will  form  bulbs  of  blooming  size. 

GANNAS. 

To  my  mind  these  are  the  handsomest  and  most  stately  of  all  the  summer 
blooming  bulbs.  They  are  chiefl}!^  used  as  ornamental  plants  at  the  backs  of 
borders  on  lawns.  They  grow  readily  from  seeds,  which  are  very  hard,  and 
should  be  soaked  in  tepid  water  before  sowing.  The  most  common  way  to 
get  these  plants,  however,  is  to  buy  a tuber  from  a florist  in  the  spring; 
Do  not  put  it  out  in  the  open  ground  until  the  weather  has  become  warm — 
say  the  first  of  June.  At  that  time  make  a hole  about  eighteen  inches  square, 
and  put  in  a good  supply  of  old  manure,  cover  with  an  inch  or  two  of  soil, 
and  on  this  place  your  canna  tuber.  If  the  weather  is  favorable  by  August, 
this  tuber  will  have  produced  from  four  to  six  stalks,  usually  about  six  feet 
high,  surmounted  by  lovely  flowers.  There  are  several  varieties,  and  in 
nearly  all  of  them  both  the  foliage  and  the  bloom  is  different.  The  roots  are 
difficult  to  keep  over  winter,  but  where  one  has  a real  warm  room,  dig  up  the 
roots  after  first  frost  and  set  in  a warm  place  to  evaporate  the  moisture.  In 
the  greenhouse  we  keep  these  by  the  sides  of  the  flues  and  even  then  loose 
some  to  rot.  The  seedlings  usually  bloom  the  second  year. 

CALADIUM  ESCULENTUM. 

Where  one  wants  a really  odd  plant,  and  one  with  most  beautiful  foliage, 
let  them  purchase  a root  of  the  above.  In  appearanee  it  will  remind  you  of 
a turnip,  but  one  never  knows  the  beauties  that  are  hidden  away  in  a dry 
bulb.  Let  us  suppose  it  is  May  and  your  caladium  has  arrived.  You  want 
a good  large  hole  dug,  as  much  as  three  feet  across  the  top,  and  about  two 
feet  deep  ; put  about  a foot  of  old  manure  in,  then  your  bulb,  and  cover  it, 
say  six  inches  deep ; give  it  plenty  of  water  at  all  times ; seemingly  it  can 
never  get  enough,  and  in  a few  weeks  a stalk  about  a foot  high  will  have 
grown,  this  will  soon  unfold  and  show  you  a leaf  that  from  a fancied  resem- 
blance to  an  elephant’s  ear,  has  caused  this  plant  to  be  so  named.  I have 
grown  these  plants  close  by  a wall  so  as  to  supply  them  abundantly  with 
water  and  one  year  got  a single  leaf  which  measured  thirty-three  inches 
across.  It  hears  a yellow  flower,  but  very  seldom  produces  one.  In  winter 
care  is  about  the  same  as  recommended  for  cannas. 

OXALIS. 

One  more  bulb  is  the  summer  blooming  oxalis.  For  the  border  of  a bed 
or  a walk  there  is  nothing  so  economical  and  beautiful.  A hundred  bulbs  of 
these  can  be  bought  for  ten  cents,  and  these  planted  in  a row  about  three 
inches  apart,  will  by  fall  have  increased  to  thousands.  There  are  two 
varieties,  Lasindria,  the  largest  with  a light  green  leaf,  and  a pretty  pink 
upright  flower,  does  not  increase  so  rapidly  as  Dieppi  which  has  dark  foliage 
and  a dwarf  creeping  habit. 

None  of  the  summer  bulbs  will  endure  our  northern  winters.  All  must 
be  dug  up  in  fall,  carefully  dried,  and  kept  free  from  frost  until  planting  time 
comes  again. 


THE  FLOWER  GARDEN. 


1207 


Floral  Hints. 


To  Kill  Earth-Worms. — Ten  drops  of  carbolic  acid  in  a pint  of  water, 
poured  over  earth  in  flower-pots  will  kill  all  earth-worms. 

Sure  Shot  for  Rose  Slugs. — Make  a tea  of  tobacco-stems  and  a soap-suds 
of  whale-oil  or  carbolic  soap,  mix  and  apply  to  the  bush  with  a sprinkler, 
turning  the  bush  so  as  to  wet  the  under  as  well  as  the  upper  part  of  the 
leaves  ; apply  before  the  sun  is  up  three  or  four  times. 

Lily  of  the  Valley. — Those  who  have  this  in  their  gardens  may  secure 
flowers  of  it  in  the  house  late  in  the  winter  by  lifting  a bunch  late  in  fall. 
Pack  closely  with  earth  in  a box  and  leave  out  of  doors  till  after  frost,  giving 
only  a slight  watering  now  and  then.  Bring  into  the  house  about  holidays, 
place  in  a sunny  window  and  the  flowers  will  soon  develop.  They  then  need 
an  abundance  of  water, 

• Freesia  Refracta  Alba. — Among  hew  bulbs  none  have  so  cpiickly  won 
their  way  to  popularity  as  quickly  as  this.  Its  perfume  is  delicious,  not  ob- 
jectionable as  are  tuberoses.  The  flowers  are  a tube-shaped,  pure  white, 
with  a yellow  blotch  on  the  lower  petal.  Plant  the  bulbs  in  fall  in  sandy 
soil  and  keep  in  the  light,  water  and  give  little  more  until  growth  begins. 
"When  done  blooming,  withhold  the  v/ater,  and  when  the  bulbs  are  ripe, 
store  away  in  a dry  place  until  next  Fall. 

Chinese  Primrose. — For  a neat,  flowering  plant  for  the  window,  there  is 
nothing  better  than  this.  ^ It  is  nqt  suitable  for  outdoors,  but  in  a greenhouse 
or  even  in  a window  it  will  with  proper  management  ])loom  the  year  round. 
Usually,  however,  the  blooming  period  is  in  winter  and  early  spring.  It 
needs  a moderately  warm  place,  quite  near  the  glass,  and  good  drainage  in 
the  pots.  If,  as  is  generally  the  case,  the  plant  grows  top-heavy,  it  should 
have  a few  small  sticks  placed  around  to  support  it.  It  is  raised  from  seed, 
and  florists  supply  young  plants  quite  reasonable. 

Flower  Pots. — Take  common  red  clay  flower  pots,  scrub  them  until  all 
spots  are  removed  and  they  are  of  one  color.  Then  get  a package  of  silhouUes 
and  paste  them  not  too  thickly  over  the  pot.  Then  give  a coat  of  varnish. 
They  are  quite  ornamental,  and  when  suspended  by  a »-ed  cord  they  make  a 
ver3/  nice  hanging  basket.  In  handsomely  or  even  moderately  well  "furnished 
room  the  plain  red  pots  seem  shabby. 

Ivies. — A successful  cultivator  of  ivies  feeds  them  with  iron  and  cod-liver 
oil ; the  iron  in  fo^'m  of  rusty  nails,  mixed  into  the  earth.  Another  produced  a 
luxurious  growth  by  watering  once  a week  with  tobacco- water ; making  a tea 
of  refuse  tobacco-leaves  and  stems,  or  of  coarse  tobacco.  The  water  f.om  the 
washing  of  fresh  beef  or  fish  is  also  of  great  benefit  to  ivies.  Moisten  the 
leaves  with  a sponge  wet  in  tea,  or  simply  wash  with  tepid  water ; as  to  have 
success  with  them  they  must  be  kept  free  from  dust.  Tea-leaves  placed 
around  ivies  are  good  for  them. 

To  Keep  Plants  Without  a Fire  at  Night. — Have  made  of  wood  or  zyic  a 
tray  about  four  inches  deep,  with  a handle  on  either  end,  water-tight — paint 
it  outside  and  in,  put  in  each  corner  a post  as  high  as  the  tallest  of  your 
plants,  and  it  is  ready  for  use.  Arrange  your  flower-pots  in  it,  and  fill  be- 
tween them  with  sawdust ; this  absorbs  the  moisture  falling  from  the  plants 
when  you  water  them,  and  retains  the  warmth  acquired  during  the  day, 
keeping  the  temperature  of  the  roots  even.  When  you  retire  at  night 
spread  over  the  pots  a blanket  or  shawl,  and  there  is  no  danger  of  freezing. 
The  tray  may  be  placed  on  a stand  or  table  and  easily  moved  about. 


1208 


THE  FLOWER  GARDEN. 


Crah  Cactus  — This  is  one  of  the  nicest  plants  for  winter  bloom.  It  is 
easily  raised  from  the  slip  and  requires  but  little  watering  or  care.  It  blooms 
about  Christmas,  the  flowers  last  for  several  weeks,  and  after  they  are  gone 
the  plant  can  be  set  away  in  the  cellar,  or  cupboard  and  be  watered  rarely 
until  spring,  when,  if  placed  in  a somewhat  shady  place  it  will  need  no  fur- 
ther attention.  It  grows  through  the  summer  and  the  buds  set  on  in  the  fall. 

Window  Gardening. — All  the  varieties  of  English  ivy,  the  hoyacarnosa, 
the  passion  flower,  the  jasmine,  the  pilogyne  suavis,  and  begonias  are  espe- 
cially sustable  for  winter  culture.  Very  pretty  effects  may  be  produced  at 
the  cost  of  a few  cents,  by  planting  verbenas,  morning-glories,  cobea  scandens, 
and  the  maurandias  in  baskets  or  flower-pots,  which  may  be  concealed 
behind  statuary  or  bronzes.  The  best  fertilizer  for  them  or  any  other  house 
plants  is  that  afforded  by  the  tea-pot ; the  cold  tea-grounds  usually  thrown 
away,  if  poured  as  a libation  to  these  household  fairies,  will  produce  a mir- 
acle of  beauty  and  perfume. 

To  Prepare  Autumn  Leaves  and  Ferns.- — Immediately  after  gathering,  take 
a moderately  warm  iron,  smear  it  well  with  white  wax,  rub  over  each  sur- 
face of  the  leaf  ^nce,  apply  more  wax  for  each  leaf ; this  process  causes  leaves 
to  roll  about  as  when  hanging  on  the  tree.  If  pressed  more  they  become 
brittle  and  remain  perfectly  flat.  Maple  and  oak  are  among  the  most  desir- 
able, and  may  be  gathered  any  time  after  the  severe  frosts;  but  the  sumac 
and  ivy  must  be  secured  as  soon  after  the  first  slight  frost,  as  they  become 
tinted,  or  the  leaflets  will  fall  from  the  stem.  Ferns  may  be  selected  any 
time  during  the  season.  A large  book  must  be  used  in  gathering  them,  as 
they  will  be  spoiled  for  pressing  if  carried  in.  the  hand.  A weight  should  be 
placed  upon  them  until  they  are  perfectly  dry ; then,  excepting  the  most 
delicate  ones,  it  will  be  well  to  press  them  like  the  leaves,  as  they  are  liable 
to  curl  when  placed  in  a warm  atmosphere  ; these  will  form  beautiful  com- 
binations with  the  sumac  and  ivy. 

Soot  as  a Fertilizer. — Tie  some  in  a bag  and  dip  up  and  down  in  two  or 
three  gallons  water  much  in  the  way  blueing  is  used  in  laundry.  It  is  applied 
directly  to  the  house-plants  in  the  usual  way  with  a watering  pot,  taking 
care  not  to  get  it  on  the  leaves. 

Flower-pot  Covers. — Where  one  wishes  to  use  plants  in  decorating  a din- 
ing table  or  any  place,  knit  or  crochet  a cover  of  green  yarn  or  zephyr  to  slip 
up  over  the  crock  and  around  base  of  plant  with  a cord  and  tassel  run  in  top 
of  cover.  A piece  of  round  pasteboard,  size  of  bottom  of  crock  can  be  placed 
inside  of  cover  before  putting  in  the  crock.  These  covers  are  very  useful  as 
they  hide  the  crock  and  enable  one  to  enjoy  the  flowers  without  spoiling  the 
plant.  It  is  nice  to  have  two  or  three  of  them  as  they  are  inexpensive  and 
very  easily  made. 

Fuschias. — When  the  leaves  have  fallen  off  fuschias  it  is  better  to  allow 
the  plants  to  complete  their  rest.  Give  just  enough  water  to  keep  the  soil 
from  getting  dusty,  and  let  them  remain  dormant  until  after  the  first  of  Jan- 
uar^^  Then  repot  in  fresh  soil,  water  liberally ; when  they  commence  growth, 
give  them  all  the  light  and  air  the  rooms  afibrd.  It  must  be  remembered, 
however,  that  the  fuschia  is  by  no  means  a winter-flowering  plant,  though 
two  varieties,  Speciosa,  and  Mrs  Marshall  come  into  bloom  very  early  in  the 
year. 


THE  FLOWER  GARDEN. 


1209 


Wire  Flower  Stand. — There  are  few  ladies  who  are  willing  to  forgo  the 
pleasure  of  having  growing  plants  or  dowers  in  living  rooms,  a y contrivance 
that  makes  the  care  of  them  less  burdensome, 
that  disposes  of  them  in  a more  compact  space, 
out  of  the  way  of  the  men  folks,  most  of  whom 
care  more  for  comfort  than  dowers,  is  worthy 
of  consideration.  There  are  many  designs  in 
dower  stands  now  made  in  wire,  very  strong 
and  durable, and  yet  light,  neat  and  conveident. 

All  are  set  on  strong  castors,  so  as  to  be  ensily 
moved,  and  -the  form  represented  here  is  so 
planned  that  all  the  plants  may  be  easily  turn- 
ed to  the  light  on  all  sides.  It  also  gives  room 
for  a large  number  of  plants  in  a small  space. 

Hints  about  Plants. — Few  things  are  neces- 
sary for  the  successful  cultivation  of  house 
plants.  A patient,  untiring  spirit  is  most  im- 
portant. The  other  requisites  are  plenty  of 
sunlight,  fresh  air  and  water  when  they  need 
it.  It  is  better  to  give  a good  supply  of  Vv'ater 
when  called  for  by  drooping  leaves,  than  to  giv 
repot,  turn  plants  upside  down  on  the  left  hand,  rap  pots  sharply  with  stick  ; 
this  will  loosen  it  from  the  ball  of  earth ; lift  it  off,  and  place  the  jjlant  in  a 
pot  two  sizes  larger,  or  in  the  ground.  Do  not  leave  the  soil  too  rich  with 
manure  but  well  mixed,  and  composed  of  sod-soil,  wild  or  leaf-mold,  and 
well-rotted  stable  manure.  Cut  plants  back  pretty  closely  when  you  change 
them,  and  they  will  thrive  better  afterwards.  Water  well  at  first,  then  only 
moisten  slightly  until  they  begin  to  grow.  A good  rule  for  watering  plants 
is  once  a week  in  winter  if  the  weather  is  mild,  or  when  it  has  moderated, 
have  a gallon  watering-can  filled  with  blood-warm  water,  stir  in  a tea-spoon- 
ful of  aqua  ammonia,  and  as  you  set  the  plants  in  a convenient  place  (kitchen 
floor  will  do),  pour  in  pot  a plentiful  supply  of  this  warm  water,  and  after 
this,  sprinkle  well  with  warm  water  without  ammonia.  In  summer  two  or 
three  times  a week  is  the  rule.  Ivies  need  large  pots,  and  should  be  repotted 
ever}'^  year  in  the  summer  time. 

Starting  Siips.—A  good  way  is  to  partly  break  off  the  slip,  but  not 
entirely  se'.  v-'r  it  from  the  parent  stock,  leaving  it  hanging  for  ten  or  twelve 
days ; then  rc;move,  and  plant  in  a box  of  half  sand  or  brick-dust  and  half 
leaf-mold,  jind  it  will  be  well  rooted  in  a week.  Do  not  water  too  freely,  or 
the  slip  Will  rot.  This  is  better  for  both  slip  and  plant,  as  the  slip  will  get 
nourishment  from  the  plant  while  healing  over,  and  its  removal  will  not 
weaken  the  plant  so  much.  Hyacinths  are  very  attractive  flowers  for  win- 
dow-gardening, and  at  the  same  time  require  very  little  care  or  trouble.  Get 
the  bulbs  in  the  fall  before  frost,  from  any  good  florist,  and  keep  in  a cool 
place  until  December,  then  plant  each  one  in  a four  inch  pot  with  soil  one- 
fourth  sand,  one-fourth  well-rotted  manure,  one-fourth  garden  or  sod-soil, 
and  one-fourth  broken  bits  of  moss  and  leaf-mold  ; water  thoroughly  at  first, 
and  .set  in  a dark  closet  until  the  first  of  January,  then  bring  to  light  and  give 
plenty  of  water,  A very  good  way  is  to  set  half  a dozen  or  more  jmts  in  a 
large  dripping-pan,  pour  hot  (not  boiling)  water  in  pan,  and  let  set  for  one 
hour.  After  they  are  done  blooming,  let  them  dry  out  gradually.  They  will 
not  bloom  the  second  season  as  well  as  the  first* 

Keeping  Cut-Flowers  Fresh. — Cut-flowers  soon  droop  and  fade.  Here  are 
some  of  the  ways  in  which  they  are  preserved  : Add  to  the  water  a few  drops 
of  camphor  or  ammonia,  a little  salt,  a lump  of  charcoal,  or  immerse  the 


1210 


THE  FLOWER  GARDEN. 


stems  in  hot  water  when  a bouquet  is  first  made,  and  then  as  they  commence 
to  wilt  repeating  it,  first  cutting  off  the  ends.  Have  a skillet  or  pan  on  the 
stove  with  boiling  water,  in  depth  from  half  an  inch  to  an  inch,  hold  the  stems 
in  the  boiling  water  for  a few  seconds,  make  into  bouquets  and  place  in  water ; 
or  if  you  wish  to  send  to  a distance,  pack  in  a box,  and  send  by  mail,  or  any 
way  you  wish.  When  placed  in  the  w^ater  a little  salt  or  a rusty  nail  dropped 
in  helps  to  keep  them  fresh.  In  rnaking  bouquets,  be  careful  not  to  crowd  too 
many  flowers  into  one  vase.  They  will  last  longer,  to  say  nothing  about  their 
improved  appearance,  if  they  stand  loosely.  Never  use  cold  water.  Let  it  be 
lukew^arm,  and  soft  if  possible.  Sprinkling  flowers  in  vases  at  night  will  help 
to  keep  them  fresh,  and,  better  still,  lay  them  out  on  the  grass  where  they 
will  receive  the  dew,  being  careful  to  take  them  in  early  in  the  morning  in 
summer,  before  the  hot  rays  of  the  sun  have  wilted  them. 

Florists  in  sending  cut  flowers  any  distance  put  them  in  air-tight  boxes ; 
and  in  keeping  corsage  bouquets  one  can  keep  them  much  longer  by  above 
method.  Flat  bouquets,  made  in  plates  or  glass  platters,  can  be  built  up 
with  a foundation  of  sand.  Flow'ers  will  last  much  longer  if  their  stems  are 
thrust  into  wet  sand  than  they  will  in  water.  The  sand  can  be  covered  with 
moss,  the  flowers  cd,n  be  arranged  in  any  fanciful  shape  that  suits,  and  they 
will  not  be  likely  to  become  disarranged,  for  the  sand  holds  them  in  place 
firmly.  Instead  of  moss,  leaves  can  be  used  to  cover  the  surface  and  make 
a ground-work  for  the  design,  or  bits  of  geranium  branches,  which  often  put 
out  roots  in  the  damp  sand,  and  most  of  them  grow  right  along  as  if  nothing 
had  happened  to  them.  In  making  button-hole  bouquets,  or  arranging 
flowers  such  as  roses,  camellias,  etc.,  for  the  hair,  cut  the  stems  ofi"  at  right 
angles  and  immediately  apply  hot  wax  to  the  end  of  the  stock,  then  w'rap  in 
tin-foil,  or  to  keep  them,  after  applying  the  wax : place  each  one  in  a paper 
cone  or  cap  so  that  the  leaves  do  not  touch  the  paper.  The  cap  should  be 
sealed  up  with  glue  to  prevent  air,  dust  or  moisture  from  entering.  When 
the  glue  is  dry  it  should  be  placed  in  a cool  place.  When  wanted,  cut  off  the 
wax  end  and  place  in  water,  where  it  will  bloom  for  a few^  hours. 

Glass  or  tin  forms  for  decorations  for  table  are  convenient  and  elegant. 
They  may  be  filled  with  water  or  wet  sand,  and  may  be  made  in  any  fanciful 
form.  The  flowers  are  so  placed  that  they  conceal  the  form  entirely.  Small 
forms,  made  in  form  of  letters,  are  often  used  to  indicate  the  initials  of  the 
guest  at  whose  plate  they  are  placed,  and  the  custom  is  a very  pretty  one. 

House  Plants. — Plants  that  require  a high  or  low  temperature,  or  a very 
moist  atmosphere,  and  plants  that  bloom  only  in  summer  are  undesirable. 
Procure  fresh  sandy  loam,  with  an  equal  mixture  of  well  rotted  turf,  leaf 
mold  and  cow-yard  manure,  with  a small  quantity  of  soot.  In  repotting  use 
one  size  larger  than  they  were  grown  in ; hard  burned  or  glazed  pots  prevent 
the  circulation  of  air.  Secure  drainage  by  broken  crockery  and  pebbles  laid 
in  the  bottom  of  the  pot.  An  abundance  of  light  is  important,  and  when 
this  can  not  be  given,  it  is  useless  to  attempt  the  culture  of  flowering  plants. 

. If  possible  they  should  have  the  morning  sun,  as  one  hour  of  sunshine  then 
is  worth  two  in  the  afternoon.  Fresh  air  is  also  essential,  but  cold,  chilling 
draughts  should  be  avoided.  Water  from  one  to  three  times  a w'eek  with 
soft  luke-warm  water,  draining  off  all  not  absorbed  by  the  earth.  Do  not 
permit  water  to  stand  in  the  saucers,  as  the  only  plants  thriving  under  such 
treatment  are  called  lillies,  and  even  for  these  it  is  not  necessary  unless  while 
blooming.  Dust  is  a great  obstacle  to  the  growth  of  plants  ; a good  showering 
will  generally  remove  it,  but  all  the  smooth-leaved  plants,  such  as  cam- 
ellias, ivies,  etc.,  should  be  occasionally  sponged  to  keep  the  foliage  clean  and 
healthy.  Plants  succeed  best  in  an  even  temperature  ranging  ftom  sixty  to 
seventy  degrees  during  the  day,  with  from  ten  to  twelve  degrees  lower  at 
flight.  If  troubled  with  insects,  put  them  under  a box  or  bar^-el  and  sm^e 


THE  FLOWER  GARDEN. 


1211 


from  thirty  to  sixty  minutes  with  tobacco  leaves.  For  the  red  spider,  the 
best  remedy  is  to  lay  the  plants  on  the  side  and  sprinkle  well  or  shower. 
Repeat  if  necessary.  The  soil  should  be  frequently  stirred  to  prevent  caking. 
If  manures  are  used  give  in  liquid  form.  Some  of  the  most  suitable  plants 
for  parlor  culture  are  pelargoniums,  geraniums,  fuchsias,  palms,  begonias, 
monthly  roses,  camellias,  azaleas,  oranges,  lemons,  Chinese  and  English 
primroses,  abutilons,  narcisus,  heliotrope,  stevias,  bouvardias,  petunias,  and 
the  gorgeous  flowering  plant  poinsettia  pnlcherrima.  Camellias  and  azaleas 
require  a cooler  temberature  than  most  plants,  and  the  poinsettea  a liigher 
temperature.  Do  not  sprinkle  the  foliage  of  the  camellias  while  the  flower- 
buds  are  swelling,  as  it  will  cause  them  to  droop,  nor  sprinkle  them  in  the 
sunshine.  They  should  have  a temperature  of  about  forty  degrees  and  more 
shade.  By  following  these  rules,  healthy  flowering  plants  will  be  the  result. 
When  plants  are  frosted,  sprinkle  with  fresh  cold  water,  and  place  under  a 
box  or  something  that  will  exclude  the  light  and  prevent  too  great  a change 
in  temperature.  Keep  them  thus  for  two  days.  After  sprinkling,  be  careful 
to  put  them  where  they  will  not  chill  again.  Horse-manure,  two  years  old, 
is  best  for  carnations.  For  begonias  good  drainage  is  indispensable.  The 
whole  family  thrive  in  a compost  of  one-half  loam  and  one-half  leaf  mold, 
with  a slight  portion  of  sand.  From  September  to  February  give  pelargon- 
iums only  enough  water  to  keep  them  from  wilting;  then  water  freely,  and 
when  they  begin  to  bud,  apply  a little  liquid-manure,  or  add  ammonia  to  the 
water  twice  a week.  Double  geraniums  should  be  kept  in  small  pots,  as  they 
will  not  bloom  well  until  the  roots  become  compact.  They  require  a higher 
temperature  than  the  single  varieties.  During  warm  weather  the  foliage  of 
fuchsias  should  be  well  sprinkled  every  evening  to  prevent  its  becoming 
seared  too  early.  To  obtain  plants  of  the  greatest  beauty  in  form  and  color, 
plenty  of  light  and  space  is  essential.  Do  not  allow  the  foliage  of  one  plant 
to  overshadow  another. 


1212 


DRESS  MAKING  AT  HOME. 


DRESS  MAKHSTG-  AT  HOME. 


Tnere  are  many  women  who  spend  but  a small  sum  yearly  on  dress,  but 
only  a few  on  that  little  contrive  to  dress  neatly,  and  closely  enough  to  the 
prevailing  fashion  to  make  a ladylike  appearance.  Some  are  so  mistaken  as 
not  to  care  how  they  look.  This  is  a serious  mistake,  for  a well-dressed  per- 
son not  only  commands  respect  and  consideration  from  others,  but,  from  the 
consciousness  of  being  becomingly  dressed,  feels  better,  has  better  command 
of  all  her  faculties,  and  makes  a much  better  appearance  in  any  circle.  It  is 
worth  w^hile  for  a man  even  to  take  special  note  of  his  dress  when  he  has  any 
important  business  on  hand,  and  a thousand  times  more  so  for  woman  whose 
success  depends  in  a larger  degree  on  an  attractive  exterior.  In  a man,  genius 
may  cause  slovenly  garments  and  habits  to  be  overlooked,  but  no  genius  can 
make  a slovenly  or  even  carelessly  attired  woman  attractive  or  successful. 
There  is,  among  people  of  small  means,  too  much  neglect  of  personal  appear- 
ance. The  happiest  people  are  those  who  make  the  best  of  adverse  circum- 
stances, instead  of  magnifying  trouble  and  brooding  over  small  miseries  until 
they  become  mountains  of  tribulation.  Because  one  can  not  afford  the 
richest  fabrics  is  no  reason  for  dressing  shabbily,  or  even  out  of  taste.  Taste 
costs  no  money,  only  a little  study,  a little  exercise  of  the  brain. 

It  is  a great  mistake  to  suppose  that  economy  in  dress  means  shabbiness  ; 
the  one  is  commendable,  the  other  odious.  It  is  unpleasant  to  see  elegant 
dresses  worn  after  they  have  reached  a point  beyond  neatness,  but  it  is  posi- 
tively disgusting  to  see  dresses  which  were  poor  in  the  beginning  continued 
in  seWice  after  they  have  become  ragged  and  dirty.  Ragged  is  a hard  word 
to  use  in  connection  with  ladies’  apparel,  but  it  is  unfortunately  true,  that 
some  of  the  dresses  worn  in  home  life  are  far  more  neat  than  whole.  Worn 
sleeves,  torn  breadths,  and  a fringe  of  ragged  braid  upon  the  bottom  ought  to 
condemn  a dress.  But  when  it  reaches  that  state,  some  women  think  it  is  in 
just  the  condition  to  wear  when  there  is  no  risk  of  its  being  seen  by  any  other 
than  the  members  of  the  family.  Wise  matrons,  it  is  said,  advise  their  sons 
to  select  rainy  evenings  for  calling  upon  their  young  lady  friends,  so  that  they 
may  find  out  who  are  fit  to  be  seen  when  not  expecting  visits.  The  visitors 
who  find  a charmer  who  is,  on  state  occasions,  beautifully  clothed,  wearing  a 
slouchy,  dirty  wrapper,  with  trimmings  half  worn  off  and  pinned  up  in  places. 


DRESS  MAKING  AT  HOME. 


1213 


no  collar  or  ruffle,  but  a tumbled  lace  handkerchief  knotted  around  the  throat, 
and  hair  still  in  the  torture  of  crimping-pins,  and  slipshod  boots,  with  miss- 
ing buttons,  may  be  excused  if  they  make  a short  call  and  never  repeat  it. 
Many  a slatternly  girl  has  lost  a lover  by  allowing  careless  habits  to  fasten 
upon  her.  The  time  spent  in  keeping  garments  in  perfect  order,  and  thus 
preventing  shabbiness,  is  well  bestowed,  for  besides  the  comfortable  self- 
respect  conferred  upon  the  wearer,  the  clothes  reward  the  efforts  by  lasting 
twice  as  long. 

Gratifying  good  taste  in  dress  does  not  necessarily  involve  a great  expen- 
diture of  money,  for  good  efifect  depends  less  upon  a costliness  of  materials 
than  on  the  graceful  and  becoming  designs  into  which  they  are  wrought  and 
the  pleasing  way  in  which  colors  are  combined. 

Women  should  make  a study  of  the  art  of  dress;  instead  of  extravagance 
it  would  promote  economy.  If  each  would  study  her  individual  style,  she 
would  make  few  mistakes  in  buying,  and  find  less  temptation  in  the'  passing 
novelties  and  fleeting  fashions  that  constantly  ensnare  shoppers  with  whom 
dress  is  a matter  of  expenditure  rather  than  a science.  Mistakes  in  dress 
consume  a great  deal  of  money,  and  purchases  made  without  careful  study 
are  seldom  satisfactory,  and  are  sooner  thrown  aside  than  an  article  of  dress 
which  gratifies  the  sense  of  fitness  in  both  wearer  and  beholder. 

Fitness  is  the  foundation  of  correct  taste,  and  dress  should  always  be  in 
harmony  with  its  surroundings  and  with  the  age  and  condition  of  the  wearer. 
A velvet  dress  with  rich  lace  trimmings  might  be  elegant  and  becoming  upon 
a wealthy  young  lady  at  a reception,  but  a dress  of  the  same  kind  would  look 
strangely  out  of  place  at  a country  sewing  society,  worn  by  a young  lady 
whose  ordinary  dresses  were  of  calico.  Its  inconsistency  at  such  a time  and 
upon  such  a person,  would  be  striking  enough  to  hinder  its  exciting  admir- 
ation. 

Poverty  has  no  more  galling  sting  than  the  fancied  necessity  for  keeping 
up  appearances  ; in  other  words,  for  sailing  under  false  colors,  and  present- 
ing an  appearance  which  imitates  that  of  richer  acquaintances.  It  is  pitiful 
to  see  women,  whose  good  sense  in  other  mattery  is  unquestionable,  wearing 
out  brain  and  muscle  in  the  agonizing  struggle  to  give  themselves  and  their 
families  a look  of  ease  and  style  that  comes  naturally  to  their  richer  neigh- 
bors. It  takes  not  a little  courage  to  say,  ‘G  can  not  afford  it;”  but  it  is 
nobler  and  truer  to  say  it  than  to  hide  behind  subterfuges,  or  more  cowardly 
still,  to  incur  unwarrantable  expense  rather  than  confess  to  ])Overty. 

“ Put  the  best  foot  foremost,”  but  never  do  it  at  the  cost  of  self-respect. 
One  who  poor  should  not  degenerate  into  carelessness  and  shiftless  ways ; 
for  if  ever  thrift  and  good  management  is  needed,  it  is  where  money  is  scarce. 
There  are  some  people  who  can  make  a dollar  go  twice  as  far  as  others,  and 
this  faculty,  though  natural  to  many,  is  as  often  an  acquirement  as  a gift.  It 
is  the  result  of  care,  thoughtfulness,  and  an  unceasing  watchfulness,  which 
is  irksome  enough  until  it  is  looked  at  in  the  right  light  and  set  down  as  a 
duty.  Economy  is  not  parsimony,  although  it  has  fallen  into  disrepute  by 
being  falsely  so-called.  That  there  is  no  disgrace  in  saving  and  no  merit  in 
wastefulness  is  a fact  that  should  never  be  forgotten,  and  wise  mothers  who 
. wish  to  fit  their  daughters  for  any  sphere  should  carefully  inculate  that  idea. 
In  older  countries  economy  is  a most  commendable  virtue.  It  is  only  here, 
where  large  fortunes  are  won  with  such  magical  rapidity,  that  a few  weak- 
minded  people  pretend  to  despise  it. 

There  is  a bald  economy  which  shows  its  pitiful  bareness  in  every  point 
of  dress,  and  there  is  an  economy  which  struggles  to  conceal  its  devices  and 
makeshifts  by  making  everything  appear  to  the  best  advantage.  No  one  can 
dispute  the  fact  that  of  the  two  the  latter  is  far  the  most  graceful  and  praise- 
worthy. It  costs  more  thought  and  effort  to  make  garments  stylish  and  pretty, 
but  the  well-dressed  woman  has  her  reward  in  increased  self-respect.  One 


1214 


DRESS  MAKING  AT  HOME. 


woman  will  make  over  a hard  worn  dress  into  a dreary  gored  wrapper  unre- 
lieved by  trimming.  Another  will  convert  the  same  material  into  a jaunty 
skirt  and  basque,  and  from  the  apparently  unusable  portions  decorate  them 
in  some  tasteful  way.  Certainly  the  lady  who  wears  the  latter  costume  will 
be  better  pleased  with  herself,  and  grace  the  family  table  more  satisfactorily 
to  her  friends  than  the  other 

There  are  people  who  pretend  to  be  too  good  to  care  for  dress,  and  des- 
pise others  for  being  fond  of  what  they  please  to  call  frivolity.  A close  ana- 
lysis of  the  character  of  such  people  would  often  bring  to  light  far  graver 
faults  and  weaknesses  than  a love  for  dress,  which,  kept  within  proper  bounds 
is  not  reprehensil)le,  but  rather  commemlable. 

It  can  hardly  be  repeated  too  often  that  quiet  dressing  should  be  the  rule 
for  those  who  are  enable  to  procure  a variety  of  clothes.  The  wearer  of  a 
showy  dress  is  so  soon  recognized  by  it,  and  slie,  as  well  as  her  friends,  grows 
sick  of  it  long  before  its  term  of  usefulness  is  over.  A plain  black  or  dark 
dress  can  be  made  st^dishly  and  will  be  as  dressy  as  a figured  one,  and  will 
not  be  remembered  horn  time  to  time,  even  if  it  is  worn  on  every  occasion 
for  a long  while.  Bright  ribbons  find  fresh  ruffles  and  laces  will  change  and 
beautify  the  plain  quiet  dress,  and  gives  one  a reputation  for  becoming  and 
tasteful  toilettes  without  its  occurring  to  any  one  that  the  same  old  dress 
forms  the  basis  of  all  the  pretty  changes.  It  is  in  making  over  an  old  dress 
that  fancy  material  can  be  used  to  good  advantage  to  freshen  and  piece  out. 
but  in  buying  and  making  a new  dress,  when  the  event  is  a rare  one,  it  is  in- 
finitely wiser  to  buy  it  of  a solid  color  and  make  it  in  an  inconspicious  man- 
ner, not  forgetting  to  get  a sufficiently  ample  pattern  to  allow  of  a large 
piece  to  lay  aside  for  future  alterations  and  improvements. 

Even  a very  poor  lady  may  dress  with  taste,  and  a working-girl  may  show 
more  of  it  in  her  simple  dress  than  an  extravagant  and  wealthy  lady  will  in 
hers.  In  fact  the  ability  to  buy  finery  of  all  sorts,  and  gratify  a strong  fancy 
for  decoration  often  leads  to  bizarre  effects,  which  destroys  the  beauty  of  ex- 
pensive costumes.  One  need  hardly  be  afraid  of  offending  good  taste  by  dress- 
ing too  plainly,  provided  the  plainess  is  the  perfection  of  neatness.  That, 
indeed,  should  belong  to  all  styles  of  dress;  for  nothing  so  entirely  takes 
away  one’s  reputation  for  being  well-dressed,  as  torn,  soiled  or  shabby  apparel 
or  tnmmings.  Not  only  that,  but  other  unfavorable  deductions  as  to  char- 
acter and  habits  are  apt  to  be  drawn  of  those  whose  habitual  appearance  is 
other  than  neat. 

People  who  are  not  rich  can  not  afford  to  be  careless,  because  clothes  that 
are  not  taken  care  of  will  not  last  as  long  as  those  which  are  kept  in  order. 
A small  outlay  of  money  and  a liberal  expenditure  of  time  and  patiencfe  will 
keep  even  a meager  wardrobe  in  good  order,  and  will  forestall  the  outlay  of 
considerable  sums.  Eternal  vigilance  is  the  price  of  decency  for  poor  folks. 
Garments  often  wear  out  faster  when  not  being  worn  than  when  they  are  in 
use.  Dresses  crowed  into  a closet,  and  allowed  to  hang  for  daj^s  under  the 
weight  of  a cloak  or  two  or  three  other  dresses,  will  not  pass  the  ordeal  with- 
out injury.  Lingerie  carelessly  tossed  into  a drawer,  where  there  is  a con- 
fused assortment  of  other  articles,  will  not  come  out  in  good  order  for  wear- 
ing again ; and  torn  flounces,  mended  with  pins,  do  not  add  to  the  durability 
of  a dress  any  more  than  does  putting  it  away  with  an  accumulation  of  dust 
on  the  bottom. 

Handsome  dresses  that  are  not  often  worn  should  be  folded  with  extreme 
care,  with  every  ruffle  and  plaiting  in  place.  This  plan  is  supposed  to  pre- 
vent the  sagging  of  the  drapery  that  is  sometimes  given  by  constant  hang- 
ing. Another  way  to  prevent  this  is  to  hang  it  upside  down  occasionally  by 
tapes  pinned  upon  the  bottom  of  the  skirt ; this  reverses  all  the  customary 
folds,  and  freshens  the  general  appearance.  Of  course  every  bit  of  dust 
should  have  been  previously  wiped  oft’,  and  for  this  purpose  nothing  is  better 


DRESS  MAKING  AT  HOME. 


1215 


than  an  old  silk  handkerchief.  The  dress  should  be  pinned  up  in  towels  or 
pieces  of  old  muslin,  and  laid  away  upon  a shelf,  or  in  a drawer,  if  an  empty 
one  sufficiently  large  is  available.  The  importance  of  keeping  dresses  m 
shape  when  they  are  off  the  person  is  so  wel  I understood  in  France  that 
many  ladies  who  do  not  have  maids  of  their  own  hire  a x)rofessional  expert 
to  fold  away  their  more  elegant  dresses.  When,  unfortunately,  the  closets 
of  a house  are  not  roomy  enough  to  contain  good  dresses  witliout  folding  too 
much,  large  pasteboard  boxes  may  be  ordered  from  any  box  maker  or  book 
bindery,  which  will  soon  save  their  cost  by  preventing  injur}^  to  costly  gar- 
ments, As  a rule,  put  away  every  article  of  apparel  as  soon  as  it  is  taken 
off.  Dresses  must  be  shaken  and  brushed,  and  if  they  have  been  worn  in 
the  street,  thoroughly  cleaned  upon  the  bottom,  then  they  should  be  hung  u}) 
by  loops  sewed  on  the  back  of  each  armhole,  and  if  possible  allowed  the  full 
possession  of  the  nook  or  nail,  as  hanging  under  or  against  other  garments 
is  no  advantage  to  a dress 

Shaivls  should  be  carefully  folded  in  the  original  creases  and  pinned  up 
in  a square  of  clean  linen  before  laying  away  in  a drawer.  Cloaks  must  be 
brushed,  and  either  laid  in  a long  drawer  or  trunk  and  subjected  to  no  press- 
ure from  other  garments,  or  hung  up  by  a loop  on  the  back  of  the  neck ; or 
better  still,  cut  a piece  of  wood  something  in  the  shape  of  a wooden  yoke, 
such  as  is  sometimes  used  across  men’s  shoulders  to  suspend  milk  pails  to, 
and  fasten  it  up  by  a string  tied  in  the  middle  and  hang  the  cloak  upon  that. 
It  will  keep  the  shoulders  in  good  shape.  It  is  a good  plan,  in  a large 
closet  that  is  oftened  opened,  to  have  a calico  curtain  to  protect  tliat  part 
of  it  devoted  to  cloth  and  woolen  goods,  as  by  contact  with  dust  they 
soon  grow  gray  and  dingy. 

Throwing  a dress  carelessly  upon  a chair  with  other  clothes  taken  off  at 
night,  because  it  is  only  a common  one  is  a very  bad  habit,  Ordinary  dresses 
are  worthy  of  care,  and  pay  for  it  by  presenting  a better  appearance  to  the 
end.  They  should  be  brushed,  shaken,  turned  wrong  side  out,  and  hung  up 
in  a closet  which  has  a door  to  shut  out  dust,  and  above  all  they  should  be 
kept  in  good  repair.  Every  rip  and  rent  should  receive  attention  as  soon  as 
it  occurs,  or  a condition  of  shabbiness  will  ensue  that  will  be  a great  obstacle 
to  making  the  dress  over  when  the  time  comes. 

A clothes  brush,  a wisp  broom,  a bottle  of  ammonia,  a sponge,  a hand 
brush,  a cake  of  erasive  soap,  and  a vial  of  alcohol  should  form  a part  of  the 
furnishings  o^  every  toilet.  After  all  dust  has  been  removed  from  clothing, 
spots  may  be  taken  out  of  black  cloth  with  the  hand  brush,  dipped  in  equal 
parts  of  ammonia,  alcohol  and  water.  This  will  brighten  as  well  as  cleanse. 
Benzine  is  useful  in  removing  grease  spots.  Spots  of  grease  may  be  removed 
from  colored  silks  by  putting  on  them  raw  starch  hrade  into  a paste  with 
water.  Dust  is  best  removed  from  silk  by  a soft  flannel,  from  velvet  with  a 
brush  made  specially  for  the  purpose,  or  a piece  of  crape.  Shawls  and  all 
articles  that  may  be  folded,  should  be  folded  when  taken  from  the  person  in 
their  original  creases  and  laid  away.  Cloaks  should  be  hung  up  in  place, 
gloves  pulled  out  lengthwise,  wrapped  in  tissue  paper  and  laid  away,  laces 
smoothed  out  nicely  and  folded,  if  requisite,  so  that  they  will  come  out  of 
the  box  new  and  fresh  when  needed  again.  A strip  of  old  black  broadcloth 
four  or  five  inches  wide,  rolled  up  tightly  and  sewed  to  keep  the  roll  in  place 
is  better  than  a sponge  or  a cloth  in  cleansing  black  and  dark  colored  clothes. 
Whatever  lint  comes  from  it  in  rubbing  is  black  and  does  not  show.  When 
black  clothes  are  washed,,  as  they  may  often  be  previous  to  making  over, 
fresh  clean  w^ater  should  be  used,  ardthey  should'be  pressed  on  the  wrong 
side  before  being  quite  dry.  If  w^ashed  in  water  previously  used  for  white 
clothing  they  will  be  covered  with  lint.  In  securing  clothing  against  moths, 
if  linen  is  used  for  wrappings  no  moth  will  molest.  Paper  bags  are  equally 
good  if  they  are  perfectly  tight,  and  so  are  trunks  and  boxes  closed  so  tightly 


1216 


DRESS  MAKING  AT  HOME. 


that  no  crevice  is  left  open  for  the  entrance  of  the  moth  fly,  As  the  moth 
loves  darkness,  it  will  not  molest  even  furs  hung  up  in  light  rooms  open  to 
air  and  sunshine. 

Bonnets  and  hats  also  merit  tender  care,  and  should  not  he  allowed  to  lie 
about  and  gather  dust ; but,  after  being  taken  from  the  head,  should  be 
dusted,  the  bov’s  and  trimming  straightened,  and  laid  away  in  boxes.  If  the 
feathers  seem  limp  and  slightly  uncurled,  sometimes  holding  them  over  the 
hot  air  of  an  open  register  will  restore  them.  Veils,  neck-ribbons  and  cra- 
vats will  also  keep  fresh  much  longer  if  carefully  folded  up  and  laid  away 
under  a weight  sufficient  to  keep  them  in  place.  Soiled  ribbons,  in  most 
colors,  can  be  restored  by  washing  in  alcohol  and  water,  and,  instead  of  be- 
ing ironed,  smoothed  by  being  stretched  tightly  upon  a board,  held  in  |:>lace 
by  pins,  and  wiped  gently  with  a soft  handkerchief  once  or  twice  in  drying. 

Shoes  even  pay  for  good  care.  On  taking  them  off"  do  not  leave  them  in 
the  shape  of  the  foot,  but  smooth  them  b}'^  stretching  out  the  wrinkles  and 
bending  the  soles  straight.  If  buttons  are  lacking,  sew  them  on  immediately, 
and  if  other  repairs  are  needed,  have*them  attended  to  at  once.  Never  wear 
a shoe  with  a single  button  off.  as  it  destroys  the  shape.  On  old  shoes  the 
fit  is  greatly  improved  by  setting  over  the  buttons  as  far  as  comfortable  for 
the  foot.  If  the  heels  become  vrorn  down  on  one  side,  straighten  them  with- 
out delay,  or  the  shoe  will  take  a permanent  twist. 

Gloves  with  many  are  greatly  abused,  which  is  a mistake,  because  to  be 
well  gloved  contributes  very  much  towards  a lady-like  appearance,  and  un- 
less one  can  afford  a constant  possession  of  new  gloves  it  is  desirable  to  keep 
the  old  ones  in  order.  When  taken  off  they  should  not  be  rolled  together  in 
alumxj,  as  it  is  the  custom  with  many,  but  pulled  and  stretched  lengthwise, 
and  laid  away  in  a box,  like  new  gloves  without  any  folding.  They  should 
also  be  kef)t  repaired,  for  if  rips  on  the  finger  ends  are  neglected  they  soon 
get  so  large  that  in  mending  them  it  is  impossible  to  restore  the  proper  shape 
of  the  fingers. 

Kid  Gloves  should  be  turned  and  the  tears  mended  upon  the  wrong  side, 
they  ca  i be  sewed  more  neatly  than  uponthe  other  side.  Use  No.  70  cotton 
thread  ith  a very  fine  needle  ; some  take  No.  50  and  splice  it,  thinking  it 
better ; either  is  preferable  to  silk.  When  gloves  are  of  poor  kid,  or  where 
there  is  a weak  portion,  which  parts  easily,  tt  is  well,  instead  of  darning 
them,  to  work  an  elastic  stitch,  with  silk  of  the  same  color.  This  is  done  by 
making  a succession  of  button-hole  stitches,  catching  one  to  the  other  till  the 
rent  is  filled  up.  When  soiled  they, can  be  cleaned  at  home  as  well  as  at  a 
professional  cleaner.  Wash  them  in  benzine,  using  quite  a quantity,  as  it  is 
cheap  wdien  bought  by  the  quart  or  half  gallon,  being  very  careful  to  keep  a 
good  distance  from  the  fire  or  any  lamp,  as  benzine  is  very  inflammable  and 
dangerous.  The  common  benzine  is  best.  Perhaps  the  best  plan  is  to  let 
them  soak  for  ten  minutes  in  the  benzine,  then  squeeze  out  the  gloves,  wash 
then:  out  in  a fresh  cupful  until  the  dirt  has  made  the  liquid  quite  dark, 
then  rinse  in  a clean  cupful  This  last  may  be  put  away  in  a close  bottle  to 
use  foi  soaking  the  next  pair  that  is  to  be  cleaned.  Now  pull  them  straight 
and  rub  with  a sofl  handkerchief  until  dry.  Place  over  them  thin,  soft  white 
paper  and  iron  them  hard  with  an  iron  not  hot  enough  to  draw  them.  This 
puts  a polish  on  them  and  makes  them  look  like  new.  If  too  large  they  may 
be  shrunk  a little  by  using  a hotter  iron.  Now  pla^^e  them  in  a towel  and 
lay  near  the  stove  for  two  or  three  hours  to  remove  all  smell  of  benzine,  and 
then  place  in  the  glove  box  with  sachets  of  violet  between  them. 

It  is  an  excellent  plan,  when  one  glove  of  a pair  has  unfortunately  been 
lost,  to  preserve  the  odd  one  to  mend  with.  It  is  not  usual  to^  patch  gloves, 
but  it  often  happens  that  a misfit  can  be  remedied  by  inserting  a V shaped 
piece  in  the  palm ; for  this  and  other  contingencies  a supply  of  odd  glove? 
often  proves  valuable. 


DRESS  MAKING  AT  HOME. 


1217 


One  of  the  most  important  things  is  economy  in  the  manner  in  v/hich 
money  is  spent  for  work.  Many  an  over  tasked  woman,  feeling  it  impossible 
to  accomplish  all  her  sewing  without  assistance,  will  employ  a dressmaker 
to  make  and  make  over  dresses,  and  herself  wrestle  with  the  weary,  never 
ending  accumulation  of  plain  family  sewing  and  repairing  which  could  be 
done  by  cheap  help.  This  is  not  good  management,  for  professional  skill  is 
always  expensive  to  procure,  and  the  price  paid  for  making  one  dress  would 
he  enough  to  hire  a large  amount  of  plain  sewing  done.  Cutting  and  fitting 
dresses  is  not  difiicult  with  good  patterns  at  command,  and  there  is  no  reason 
why  any  one  should  hesitate  to  undertake  her  own  dressmaking.  It  is  an 
art  one  soon  acquires  and  becomes  very  expert  in  after  a little  practice. 
Let  a woman  feel  herself  capable  of  making  a dress  fairlj''  well,  and  what  a 
vista  of  possibilities  opens  before  her.  Old  garments  that  are  not  worth 
spending  a penny  upon  can  be  put  to  good  use  if  the  owner  knows  how  to 
fashion  them  herself.  It  i s commendable  to  work  over  old  clothes,  and  make 
them  look  as  new  and  stylish  as  taste  and  industry  can  contrive.  Never  be 
contented  with  a simply  decent  old  dress  ; but,  if  you  cannot  afford  a new 
one,  take  the  time  to  make  the  old  one  tasteful  and  as  near  the  fashion  as 
can  be.  Perhaps  some  one  will  say  you  are  foolish  to  spend  time  and 
strength  on  old  material,  but  judge  for  yourself  if  it  is  not  judiciously  spent 
when  it  brings  as  a result  a costume  which  gives  you  that  comfortable  feel- 
ing of  self-respect  that  a pretty  and  becoming  dress  does  not  fail  to  confer 
upon  the  wearer.  Even  the  most  showy  fashions  of  the  present  time  fa.vor 
remodeling  and  making  over  dresses.  Two  or  three  materials  still  enter 
into  the  composition  of  street  and  house  dresses,  and  the  greatest  liberty  of 
taste  is  allowed  in  the  shape  of  overskirts  and  the  modes  of  trimming. 
Basques,  round  waists,  jackets  and  polonaises,  all  are  seen  upon  new  dresses. 
No  one  style  seems  to  reign  in  any  department  of  dress  cutting,  which  is  a 
great  blessing  to  those  who  make  their  new  dresses  out  of  old  ones.  An- 
other point  which  is  of  especial  advantage  to  those  who  have  real  genius  and 
skill  in  making  over  dresses  is  the  fancy  for  individual  novelties  in  costume. 
Ladies  of  fashion  boast  of  liaving  designed  a dress  which  is  unique  and  un- 
likely to  meet  its  counterpart.  Dressmakers  rack  their  brains  to  invent 
styles  which  they  can  assure  favorite  patrons  shall  be  repeated  upon  no 
other  dress. 

If  abandoned  garments,  for  which  there  is  no  immediate  use  in  any  form 
were  always  wholly,  or  partially  taken  apart  and  laid  away  carefully,  in- 
stead of  being  tucked  away  at  random,  they  would  make  a better  appear- 
ance when  their  opportunity  for  usefulness  occurs. 

In  these  days  of  mixtures  and  combinations  there  are  few  things  which 
cannot  be  made  serviceable  as  trimmings  or  to  assist  in  composing  some  of 
the  costumes  expert  economists  make  up  out  of  odds  and  ends  ; everything 
of  the  sort  in  a family  should  be  saved  with  a view  to  usefulness  in  the  future. 
There  should  be  a receptacle  in  garret  or  store-room  where  large  and  small 
pieces  may  quietly  bide  their  time  out  of  every  one’s  way.  It  is  quite  a 
treat  to  visit  such  a receptacle  when  the  dressmaking  time  of  each  season 
draws  near,  and  look  over  its  resources.  Many  hidden  and  forgotten  l)un- 
dles  will  come  to  light,  and  be  greeted  as  so  much  saving  of  money.  Some 
old  breadths  may  make  a sham  skirt  to  build  a new  dress  upon,  another 
fragment  will  perhaps  make  a facing  or  waist  lining.  A great  deal  of  money 
is  spent  for  such  minor  details  of  a dress,  which  might  be  saved  and  spent 
in  a more  showy  manner,  if  strict  attention  were  j^aid  to  treasuring  up  old 
possessions.  Every  thing  of  the  kind  should  not  only  be  saved  but  put 
away  in  good  order.  If  an  old  dress  is  abandoned,  do  not  hang  it  up  in  its 
worn  out  condition,  but  rip  it  all  to  pieces,  clean  the  l)readths,  for  if  they  are 
worth  using  at  all,  they  are  worth  cleaning,  and  fold  them  neatly.  Select 
all  the  best  portions  of  other  parts  of  the  dress  and  serve  in  the  same  way. 

77  ' 


1218 


DRESS  MAKING  AT  HOME. 


It  is  very  disheartening  to  find  material  in  a dirty  condition  when  the  occa- 
sion comes  to  use  it,  and  if  it  is  needed  in  a hurry,  the  chances  are  that  some- 
thing new  will  have  to  be  bought  to  take  its  place.  The  best  parts  of  old 
cotton  underclothes  may  be  dyed  with  family  dye,  and  used  for  linings  for 
dresses  and  children’s  clothes.  For  waist  linings  cotton  cloth  had  better  be 
left  undyed.  White  linings  are  not  in  the  least  objectionable  where  corset 
covers  are  worn  ; on  the  contrary,  they  are  the  choice  of  many  dressmakers. 

In  altering  over  old  black  silk  dresses  do  not  use  a hot  iron  on  them ; 
sponge  the  pieces  vrith  a s 'onge  dipped  in  clear  coffee,  and  then  fold  and  lay 
away  under  a pressure  as  heavy  as  possible.  The  silk  will  come  out  looking 
almost  like  new. 

An  independent  polonaise,  for  wearing  with  difi’erent  skirts,  is  not  an  ar- 
ticle of  dress  much  advised  now  by  dressmakers,  because  a certain  uniform- 
ity is  considered  desirable  in  dress,  but  economical  people  can  not  afford  to 
give  up  the  useful  garment  which  creates  such  a pleasing  variety  in  a 
slender  wardrobe.  A black  cashmere  polonaise,  for  instance,  or  even  a gray 
flannel  one,  can  be  worn  over  several  skirts,  and  thus  supply  street  and 
house  costumes  at  little  cost. 

Black  is  handsome,  lady-like  and  irreproachable ; and  she  who  is  not  the 
fortunate  possessor  of  one  good  black  dress  is  really  worthy  of  pity.  The 
black  dresses  of  to-day  are  frequently  gay  with  colored  trimmings,  and  the 
Persian  cashmeres  and  brocades  that  in  decoration  really  light  them  up  won- 
derfully well ; but  if  the  purse  allows  but  one  nice  dress,  that  one  should,  by 
all  means,  be  all  black,  and  depend  for  illumination  upon  the  little  acces- 
sories of  ribbons,  fichus,  etc.,  which  will  make  it  more  or  less  dressy  as  re- 
quired. Every  woman  who  cares  for  appearances — and  every  one  should  do 
that — ouglit,  if  she  can  possibly  afford  it,  to  own  a good  black  silk  dress. 
Alpaca  is  good  ; cashmere  is  better ; other  black  materials  are  very  satisfac- 
tory ; but  not! ling  gives  one  such  a comfortable  feeling  of  self-respect  as 
black  silk.  Silk  is  still  very  cheap,  and  fancy  makes  particularly  so.  It  would 
cost  a good  deal  to  get  a really  rich  plain  black  silk,  for  such  a dress  re- 
quires to  be  richer  than  one  with  a stripe,  dot,  or  figure,  and  will  also  need 
richer  trimmings.  Better  no  silk  than  a poor,  flimsy,  plain  one,  wdnch  soon 
turns  shabViy  and  betrays  the  purchaser’s  trust.  One  will  find  black  silk  to 
be  the  most  economical  dress  for  the  best  dress,  and  with  it  one  does  not 
need  any  other,  lighting  it  up  as  above  directed,  when  wearing  in  evening, 
or  on  dress  occasions.  Besides  this,  a pretty  cashmere  or  novelty  suit  for 
street  wear  and  a dress  or  two  for  home  wear  gives  a sufficient  wardrobe.  As 
they  wear,  take  the  silk  for  second  best,  supplying  a new  one,  and  in  this 
w^ay  one  may  always  have  all  that  is  necessary  and  yet  not  have  so  many 
dresses  to  become  out  of  fashion.  The  one-suit  idea  is  fast  gaining  ground 
and  wisely  so,  as  one  can  thus  be  better  clothed,  and  in  later  style  and  at 
less  expense  than  where  a dozen  different  best  dresses  are  hung  in  the  closet, 
worn  only  now  and  then,  thus  making  it  too  expensive  to  have  anew  suit 
very  often.  Patience  and  practice  work  miracles  in  dressmaking,  and  the 
amateur  will,  in  cultivating  both,  learn  to  study  her  own  figure  and  bring 
out  its  good  points  in  a way  that  no  professor  of  the  art  will  be  likely  to  do. 

INTELLIGENT  SHOPPING. 

There  are  a few  things  that  every  shopper  ought  to  know.  She  should, 
for  one  thing,  know  exactly  how  much  money  it  is  proper  or  expedient  to 
spend  for  a certain  article.  Of  course  she  is  not  obliged  to  expend  the  entire 
sum,  if  she  has  the  good  fortune  to  find  what  she  wants  at  a lower  price,  but 
the  limit  being  fixed,  she  should  have  resolution  enough  not  to  be  tempted 
to  exceed  it.  In  all  probability  the  sum  has  been  determined  with  refer' 
ence  to  other  needs,  and  if  one  purchase  is  allowed  to  overstep  the  margin, 


DRESS  MAKING  AT  HOME. 


121S 


there  will  be  inconvenient  curtailing  in  other  directions.  With  the  stern 
fact  of  a slender  purse  to  be  kept  in  mind,  it  is  weak  in  the  shopper  to  spend 
her  own  time  and  the  salesman’s,  looking  at  expensive  goods  which  are  be- 
yond her  reach.  The  sight  of  such  fabrics,  contrasting  with  the  more  hum- 
ble ones  which  must  of  necessity  be  her  choice,  will  be  apt  to  produce  dis- 
satisfaction. 

Quite  important  it  is  also,  for  the  economical  shopper  to  be  aware  of  the 
quantity  of  material  she  will  need.  Rapid  calculations  made  at  the  time  of 
purchasing  are  very  unreliable,  and  an  appeal  to  the  salesman  will  do  little 
good,  because  the  desire  to  make  a sale  will  often  prompt  that  person  to 
suggest  a smaller  quantity  than  is  needful.  On  the  paper  patterns  sold  by 
dealers  the  quantity  of  goods  required  is  usually  set  down,  but  an  economi- 
cal cutter  can  often  make  the  garment  from  a smaller  number  of  yards  than 
that  given.  A liberal  quantity  is  mentioned,  to  allow  dor  inexperience  and 
more  or  less  wastefulness  upon  the  cutter’s  part.  It  would  be  wise,  after  se- 
lecting a pattern,  to  measure  it,  and  decide  by  turning  the  pieces  about  till 
every  advantage  gained  by  dovetailing  them  in  and  out  may  be  taken  note 
of.  There  are  maiiy  ladies  who  manage  to  reduce  the  amount  of  cloth  usually 
required  for  a dress,  so  greatly,  that  the  saving  thus  made  is  quite  a consid- 
eration. In  expensive  goods  the  saving  of  a yard  or  two  will  go  a long  w^ay 
toward  the  purchase  of  another  dress. 

Very  excellent  managers  have  been  known  to  cut  all  the  required  parts 
of  a polonaise,  jacket,  or  whatever  form  the  pattern  is  in,  from  paper,  (in 
cases  where  the  pattern  does  not  give  duplicate  sections,)  to  better  enable 
them  to  make  the  closest  calculation  as  to  the  amount  required.  Such  pains- 
taking is  sometimes  laughed  at  and  termed  fussiness,  but,  depend  upon  it, 
any  method  which  enables  a woman  in  narrow  circumstances  to  save  a dol- 
lar, even,  should  be  above  derision.  To  ‘show  that  the  sum  thus  saved  may 
be  of  some  magnitude,  the  case  of  two  ladies  in  New  York  may  be  named, 
who  bought  silk  dresses  from  the  same  piece.  The  silk  was  four  dollars  a 
yard,  and  the  dresses  w^ere  to  be  made  in  the  same  style.  One  lady  referred 
to  her  dressmaker  for  the  amount  of  yards  necessary,  and  the  other  made  her 
©wn  calculation  in  the  manner  just  sjjoken  of,  and  bought  two  yards  less, 
Her  dress  appeared  after  being  made,  to  be  as  ample  as  her  friend’s  and  she 
had  the  reward  of  her  deliberate  forethought  in  the  saving  of  eight  dollars. 
Probably  the  other  dress  was  honestly  made,  for  the  quantity  supplied  was 
far  from  exorbitant,  but  less  careful  cutting  made  the  difference. 

How  much,  or  rather,  how  little,  material  will  it  be  safe  to  purchase  for 
making  into  a silk  dress,  is  a question  often  asked  by  ladies  who  are  obliged 
to  count  the  cost  of  every  thing  very  narrowly.  It  is  a question  that  could 
be  answered  more  accurately  regarding  a single  ii'dividual  that  in  the_  ab- 
stract, but  it  is  safe  to  say,  that  with  careful  cutting,  a polonaise  and  simply 
trimmed  skirt  can  be  made  from  thirteen  or  fourteen  yard^  of  silk,  according 
to  the  height  of  the  lady.  The  upper  part  of  the  skirt  can  be  of  black  lawn, 
or,  instead  of  continuing  the  silk  to  the  bottom  of  the  skirt,  it  may  be  pieced 
down  with  lining,  begining  where  the  ruffle  is  put  on.  Even  if  more  material 
is  purchased,  it  is  more  prudent  to  piece  out  tlie  skirt  with  other  goods,  and 
save  some  of  the  silk  to  use  when  the  time  for  making  over  comes. 

For  ladies  who  live  out  of  town,  the  present  facilities  for  selecting  from 
samples  sent  by  mail  simplify  shopping  greatly.  Almost  all  merchants  in 
large  cities  are  very  obliging  about  sending  samples,  and,  even  if  the  ex- 
press charges  on  the  goods  ordered  adds  something  to  the  cost  it  is  a trifle 
compared  to  the  expense  ^f  visiting  the  city.  With  the  samples  before  one 
at  home,  one  can  mai^e  a cooler  choice  and  use  better  judgment  than  when 
in  a store,  and  comitry  ouyers  have  on  this  score,  a great  advantage  over 
town  ahuppers. 


1220 


DEESS  MAKING  AT  HOME. 


Among  the  manj^  points  to  be  considered  in  the  selection  of  a winter 
dress,  is  its  possibility  for  turning  upside  down  and  wrongside  out,  when  its 
future  destiny  may  demand  such  transformation.  It  is  also  desirable  to 
have  goods  that  can  be  dyed,  and,  on  that  ac.count,  mixtures  of  silk  and 
wool  should  be  avoided.  There  are  also  .other  objections  to  this  class  of  goods. 
They  are  liable  to  change  color  when  exposed  to  dampness,  and  will  some- 
times shrink  and  “cockle  up”  in  a way  that  makes  them  unsightly,  and  often 
useless.  All-wool  material,  such  as  serge,  cashmere,  flannels  and  debeges, 
and  all  the  goods  of  similar  nature  sold  under  various  names,  are  far  more 
satisfactory,  and  are  often  cheaper,  even  at  the  first  cost  than  the  fanc,^’  mix- 
tures. 

For  those  ladies  who  are  obliged  to  follow  some  out-of-door  avocation, 
such  as  carrying  a subscription  book,  selling  some  article  from  house  to 
house,  or  any  pursuit  which  requires  them  to  brave  all  weathers,  the 
most  serviceable  winter  dress  will  be  6ne  of  camlet,  linsey  or  frieze-cloth. 
Either  of  these  will  be  satisfactory,  if  a grade  is  selected  which  is  woven 
of  pure  worsted,  with  no  mixture  of  cotton  or  any  other  fabric.  If  the  ma- 
terial is  bought  at  a reliable  place,  the  dealer  will  be  willing  to  point  out  the 
difference  between  the  mixed  and  unmixed  worsted  material,  but  (the  for- 
mer not  always  being  easy  to  find)  irresponsible  persons  will  sometimes  at- 
tempt to  palm  off*  the  latter  upon  the  inexperienced.  A jacket  or  sacque  like 
the  dress  can  be  wadded  and  lined,  and,  if  neatly  made  after  a stylish  pat- 
tern, vviff  complete  a walking  costume  that  any  lady  might  be  willing  to 
wear.  Such  a suit  in  dark  gray,  or  “pepper  and  salt,”  made  with  emigrant 
skirt  bordered  with  three  or  five  rows  of  black  braid,  and  easy  fitting  coat  of 
the  same,  similarly  trimmed,  will  be  more  stylish,  and  command  more  re- 
spect for  the  wearer  than  a half-worn  silk  or  cashmere  whose  trimmings 
show  stains  of  travel  and  dust,  whose  draperies  have  the  dejected  look  com- 
mon to  long  worn  ornamentation.  It  is  not  to  be  supposed  that  the  econom- 
ist must  never  take  advantage  of  a special  bargain;  but  she  must  be  w'ary, 
lest  she  is  dazzled  by  cheapness  and  tempted  into  buying  something  that 
she  could  have  gone  without,  and  saved  the  money  for  a better  use. 

The  habit  of  making  a list,  every  season,  of  the  things  obsolutely  needed, 
with  their  probable  cost,  will  assist  an  economical  shopper  very  much  in 
making  her  purchases,  and  dispose  her  to  shun  showy  so-called  bargains, 
unless  she  sees  one  that  will  supply  some  item  set  down  in  her  list,  ;or  can 
be  profitably  substituted  for  something  therein.  Even  then  she  should  use 
very  deliberate  judgment,  and  carefully  refrain  from  buying  in  haste  to  re- 
gret at  leisure. 

Merchants  in  cities  are,  at  certain  times,  in  the  habit  of  offering,  as  bar- 
gains, the  fragments  of  the  last  season’s  stock  to  clear  them  out  before  new 
goods'  are  exhibited.  These  bargains  are  sold  (very  often)  for  anything  that 
thevwill  bring.  Experienced  economists  find  their  golden  opportunity,  and 
rarely  fail  to  take  advantage  of  its  coming.  Remnants  of  summer  goods  are 
to  be  found  often  at  a quarter  of  the  price  asked  for  them  on  their  first  ap- 
pearance, and,  with  a little  taste  and  a clever  knack  at  securing  an  imitation 
of  some  of  the  many  fashions  of  the  day,  it  is  an  easy  thing  to  effect  an  in- 
genious arrangement  of  a few  yards  of  new  goods  upon  an  old  dress  that  will 
delude  the  public  into  the  belief  that  the  wRole  costume  is  as  new  as  it  is 
elegant.  The  point  having  been  thoroughly  settled,  that  close  following  of 
passing' styles  is  incompatible  with  systematic  economy,  the  woman  of  small 
means^will  not  hesitate  to  make  her  dollar  do  double  duty  by  spending  it  for 
some  of  these  kept-over  goods  without  troubling  herself  with  anxious  doubts 
and  fears  lest  they  should  not  be  in  the  latest  of  the  ruling  modes.  Her 
choice  among  them,  if  her  taste  and  judgment  are  good,  w'ill  be  those  that 
are  quiet  and  inconspicuous  in  color  and  pattern.  Such  dresses  be  the  fash- 
ion what  it  may,  are  always  ladylike  and  ,in  good  style.  There  are  some 


DRESS  MAKING  AT  HOME. 


1221 


standard  goods  that  are  never  obsolete  ; but  because  each  season  brings  its 
own  trivial  variation  in  the  shade  of  color,  and  thickness  of  a twill,  or  some 
such  unimportant  feature,  the  infinitesimal  change  depreciates,  in  the  eyes 
of  large  dealers,  the  materials  of  last  year.  Narrow  stripes,  fine  checks  and 
small  dots,  are  all  unremarkable,  and,  not  coming  within  the  range  of  arbi- 
trary fashions,  are  never  out  of  date,  and  no  one  need  ever  be  ashamed  of 
wearing  them.  Prints,  calicoes,  ginghams,  and  all  the  great  varieties  of  the 
previous  year’s  supply  of  cotton  goods,  are  generally  to  be  found  among  the 
bargains  shown  at  such  times ; and  there  is  no  better  opportunity  for  laying 
in  a stock  for  children’s  summer  dresses,  or  for  their  mothers  and  older  sis- 
ters. Always  make  up  cotton  dresses  without  lining.  They  can  be  washed 
and  ironed  easily,  and  look  almost  as  well  as  new  after  each  time  of  laun- 
drying.  With  a waist  lining  there  is  apt  to  be  a shrinkage  and  drawing  out 
of  place  in  either  the  lining  or  the  outside  that  hinders  the  iron  from  doing 
its  work  nicely.  For  those  who  have  to  do  actual  hard  work,  such  as  wash- 
ing, scrubbing,  etc.,  it  may  be  well,  now  that  the  material  is  so  much  thin- 
ner than  of  old  to  make  dark  calico  working  dresses  with  waist  linings  of 
unbleached  muslin  ter  help  to  resist  the  strain  produced  by  constant  motion 
of  the  arms  ; but  for  ordinary  housework  a loosely-fitting  unlined  waist  with 
simply  a stay  or  facing  under  the  arms,  is  quite  strong  enough.  It  would 
also  be  sufficiently  so  for  the  hardest  work  if  people  were  in  the  habit  of 
making  the  calicoes  worn  for  such  use,  simply  with  a skirt  and  half-fitting 
saque.  Many  ladies  make  the  calico  skirts  of  working  dresses  of  straight 
breadths  and  no  gores  in  order  that,  wffien  partially  worn  out,  the  front  may 
be  turned  around  to  the  back,  thus  bringing  stronger  breadths  into  the  place 
of  those  which  are  thin  and  faded.  The  gathers  are  ripped  from  the  waist- 
band and  the  skirt  turned  upside  down.  After  a new  lease  of  life  has  in 
this  way  been  secured  to  the  skirt,  there  should  be  some  way  of  renovating 
the  upper  portion,  perhaps  new  sleeves,  and,  possibly,  a renewal  of  the 
lower  portions  of  the  front  if  the  waist  is  in  saque  form 

The  most  economical  and  convenient  time  for  making  common  dresses 
is  at  a season  when  more  elaborate  dresses  are  notin  preparation.  For  cali- 
coes and  ginghams  it  will  be  safe  to  select  any  of  the  simpler  styles  of  walk- 
ing dresses.  Plain  percale  and  small  checked  ginghams  combine  well,  and 
make  very  pretty  combinations  may  be  made  wfith  calicoes  and  prints.  A 
very  practical  little  English  work  on  economy  recommends  keeping  a little 
table  of  the  widths  of  differ^xk?;  materials  and  the  respective  quantities  re- 
quired for  the  ordinary  garments  used  in  the  family  for  convenience  in  shop- 
ping 


CUTTING. 

In  cutting  goods,  economy  of  material  is  a consideration  never  to  be  lost 
sight  of.  Make  a close  calculation  before  using  the  scissors  at  all,  and  do  not 
cut  any  part  out  until  you  have  discovered  the  very  best  way  of  using  the 
cloth  to  advantage.  It  will  pay  one  to  be  very  deliberate  and  take  no  step 
w'ithout  due  consideration.  Of  course,  professional  hands  become  so  entirely 
familiar  with  their  occupation  that  it  does  not  demand  much  thought,  but 
beginners  will  do  well  to  ponder  and  plan  and  calculate  closely  the  very  best 
and  most  economical  way  in  getting  a garment  out  of  a given  quantity  of  cloth. 
Large  patterns  are  desirable  for  dresses  and  some  other  things,  but  for  most 
garments  just  enough  is  the  best  quantity  to  have.  The  extra  half  yard,  or 
w’hatever  portion  is  found  to  be  in  excess  of  the  right  length,  is  often  useless, 
and  with  cloth,  or  other  costly  material,  adds  provokingly  to  the  expense  of 
a cloak,  sacque,  or  whatever  the  garment  may  be. 

People  who  economize  very  rigidly  sometimes  argue  that  buying  paper 
patterns  adds  too  much  to  the  cost  of  garments  to  be  prudent  purchases ; but 


1222 


DRESS  MAKING  AT  HOME. 


that  seems  like  faulty  reasoning  in  most  cases,  for  the  time,  strength  and  labor 
spent  in  experimenting,  to  say  nothing  of  the  eventual  possible  wasting  of 
material,  would  more  than  cover  the  cost  of  the  model.  It  is  an  excellent 
idea  for  two  or  three  friends  to  unite  and  purchase  paper  patterns  together, 
dividing  the  expense  between  them,  and  selecting  medium  sizes,  which  would 
be  readily  adapted  to  their  different  degrees  of  slenderness  or  breadth. 

If  the  dress  is  being  made  by  a person  of  no  experience,  it  will  be  well 
to  cut  the  pattern  out  of  old  material,  baste  it  together  and  try  it  on ; this  not 
so  much  to  correct  possible  defects  in  the  pattern  as  to  guard  against  the  mis- 
takes of  inexperience,  though  even  these  need  not  be  made  if  accurate  care 
is  used  in  following  the  patterns. 

In  regard  to  cutting-out  to  the  best  advantage,  imagine  that  the  reader  of 
this,  having,  fortiinately  for  herself,  finished  making  her  own  clothes,  is  about 
to  make  a polonaise  for  her  small  daughter  or  sister.  Let  her  select  the  pat- 
tern she  "wishes,  and  if  it  is  a new  one,  cut  Si  facsimile  of  it  in  old  cloth,  baste 
together  and  try  on,  making  any  slight  alteration  in  waist  or  shoulder  seams 
that  may  be  needed.  Then  let  her  ascertain  the  width  of  the  material  decided 
on,  and  calculate  as  nearly  as  possible  the  quantity  needed — say  it  is  three 
yards  and  a half  of  twenty-seven  inch  goods.  With  a piece  of  chalk  let  her 
mark  off  upon  the  carpet  a section  of  that  length  and  width,  and  lay  the  dif- 
ferent parts  of  the’pattern  within  its  limits,  turning  and  replacing  them  again 
and  again  till  they  are  assuredly  arranged  to  the  best  possible  advantage,  and 
the  whole  garment  made  to  absorb  the  smallest  amount  of  cloth  that  is  prac- 
ticable. Of  course  the  idea  must  be  kept  in  view  of  a right  and  wrong  side 
to  the  cloth,  or  an  up-and-down  to  the  figure,  if  there  is  one,  but  a little  study 
and  thought,  after  the  pieces  are  placed,  will  correct  any  mistake  of  that  kind. 
Then  it  is  wxll,  before  taking  up  the  pattern  and  brushing  the  chalk-line  from 
the  carpet,  to  make  a rough  sketch  or  outline  of  the  position  it  occupied  upon 
the  floor,  and  not  trust  altogether  to  memory  to  re-arrange  it  upon  cloth. 
All  this  performance  seems  rather  formidable,  but  if  a beginner  will  take  the 
trouble  to  go  through  with  it  for  a few  times,  she  will  find  it  like  learning  a 
trade,  and  a little  experience  wdll  make  her  so  thoroughly  mistress  of  it  that 
she  will  no  longer  need  to  be  subject  to  such  preliminaries,  but  will,  almost 
by  intuition,  lay  the  pieces  of  the  pattern  to  the  best  advantage,  and  acquire 
the  very  desirable  accomplishment  of  cutting  well  and  economically.  To  pos- 
sess such  an  art  one  should  be  willing  to  take  a little  trouble  and  make  some 
exertion. 

In  cutting  a dress  leave  the  sleeves  and  trimming  till  the  last,  then  parings 
of  gores  and  other  pieces  can  be  used  up.  Don’t  be  afrafd  of  piecing.  The 
sleeves  should  be  whole,  if  possible,  upon  the  upper  j)arts,  but  the  under  parts 
may  be  made  of  patchwork,  if  necessary,  especially  where  the  upper  part  is 
wide.  Even  where  both  parts  are  of  equal  width  care,  ingenuity,  and  a little 
practice,  make  it  possible  to  use  up  very  small  pieces  when  material  is  scant. 
The  wmist  also  may  be  pieced  more  than  an  ordinary  dressmaker,  whose  time 
is  money,  can  afford;  but  if  you  make  your  own  dresses  you  can  sometimes 
get  one  out  of  a surprisingly  scant  pattern,  if  you  are  patient  and  ingenious 
about.piecing.  The  fronts  may  be  faced  instead  of  hemmed,  and  narrow  pieces 
may  be  put  under  the  arms  without  being  noticed.  If  necessary,  in  a basque 
or  polonaise,  all  the  parts  may  be  joined  at  the  waist.  In  making  over  a dress 
quite  short  pieces  may  be  used  to  advantage  in  this  way.  It  is  also  possible, 
when  sorely  driven  by  necessity,  to  piece  the  fronts  from  the  armsize  across, 
and  craftily  cover  the  seam  by  arranging  the  trimming  to  represent  a square 
neck.  Not  more  than  an  inch,  if  any,  of  the  seam  need  be  visible  between 
the  trimming  and  the  armsize,  and  that  wTll  hardl)^  be  observed. 

In  cutting  a basque  or  waist  from  an  untried  pattern,  cut  the  lining  first 
baste  it  up  and  tr}^  it  on ; then,  if  any  trifling  alterations  are  necessary,  they 
can  be  made,  and  the  goods  cut  according  to  the  improvements.  Cut  it  as 


DRESS  MAKING  AT  HOME. 


1223 


long  as  the  basque  is  to  be,  but  if  it  is  for  a polonaise  or  redingote,  it  need  be 
only  five  or  six  inches  below  the  waistline.  Soft  twilled  muslin  makes  the 
best  lining;  that  which  is  stiff  and  unpliable  is  very  objectionable,  as  it  is 
2iOt  only  hard  to  fit,  but  soon  stretches  out  of  shape  and  leaves  the  dress 
goods  over  it  without  proper  support.  Dark  linings,  even  for  dark  dresses, 
are  now  less  in  use  than  light.  White  is  much  used  by  dressmakers,  but  it 
soils  too  easily  to  altogether  unobjectionable.  The  best  color  is  a pearl,  or 
f Yery  light  gray.  For  calico  dresses,  even  for  winter,  the  waist  lining  should 
always  be  white,  as  in  Avashing,  the  color  of  a dark  lining  will  run  into  and 
Cx3ud  the  colors  of  the  calico.  Both  lining  and  outside  of  the  waist  should 
be  cut  the*  straight  way  of  the  cloth,  and  the  seams  and  darts  must  be 
creased  on  the  lining  exactly  by  the  pattern,  which  must  be  pinned  evenlj’- 
upon  it.  Lay  the  lining  upon  the  length  of  the  goods,  being  very  particular 
to  liaA^e  it,  perfectly  straight,  and  arrange  the  different  pieces  in  a manner 
to  save  as  much  cloth  as  possible.  If  saving  is  a great  object,  facings  can  be 
sewed  on  the  edges  of  both  fronts,  and  no  hems  turned.  By  moving  the 
the  pieces  about  it  will  be  easy,  where  there  is  no  up  and  down,  to  get  the 
side  pieces  out  between  some  of  the  larger  parts.  In  basting  the  pieces  to- 
gether, after  they  are  secured  to  the  lining,  be  very  particular  to  match 
them  as  the  paper  pattern  indicates,  following  the  creases  exactly.  To  se- 
sure  greater  precision,  it  is  best  to  mark  the  creases  with  a lead  pencil. 
One  can  not  be  too  particular  about  these  darts,  as  they  have  much  to  do  with 
the  fit  of  the  dress.  Having  basted  the  side-bodies  evenly  to  the  back,  tack 
the  fronts  and  back  together  upon  the  shoulders  and  under  the  arms,  the 
darts  having  been  previously  basted  up  by  the  marks  on  the  pattern.  Try 
on  the  waist,  and  if  it  is  right,  sew  up  the  seams  on  the  sewing  machine  and 
work  the  button  hole.  Before  cutting  these  (if  the  goods  ravel  very  easily) 
outline  each  one  by  a row  of  machine  stitching,  leaving  only  room  to  cut  the 
button-hole  between  the  lines  of  stitching,  and,  in  working  it,  take  the 
stitches  deep  enough  to  cover  the  line,  the  same  as  when  it  is  run  around  by 
hand.  If  it  does  not  fit,  the  amateur  dressmaker  need  not  fall  into  despair, 
for,  probably  a judicious  taking  in  of  the  seams  will  make  it  all  right.  If  the 
dress  is  for  a person  with  some  peculiarities  of  figure  it  will  be  necessary  to 
study  that  in  fitting ; if,  for  instance,  the  waist  is  very  tapering,  the  seams 
will  have  to  be  more  deeply  sloped  than  the  paper  pattern,  being  cut  for  the 
average  figure,  will  indicate.  If  the  person  being  fitted  has  a hollowing 
back,  a plait  or  dart  laid  in  the  middle  of  the  back  of  the  lining  will  secure  a 
better  fit. 

Long  seams  in  the  back  extending  to  the  shoulder,  are  more  becoming 
to  stout  people  than  side  bodies  ending  at  the  armsize.  If  the  shoulders 
project,  an  allowance  can  be  made  by  leaving  the  back  longer  than  the  sides 
If  one  shoulder  is  more  prominent  that  the  other,  the  defect  should  be  skill- 
fully disguised  by  putting  a layer  of  cotton  upon  the  other  side,  so  that  the 
difference  need  not  be  noticed.  If  the  arms  are  very  thin,  a sheet  of  cotton 
may  be  put  between  the  outside  and  the  lining  of  the  upper  part.  Many 
dressmakers  follow'  this  plan,  whenever  the  arm  is  not  too  large  to  admit  of 
it,  to  secure  a well-fitting  sleeve,  the  short  shoulders  now  worn  to  dresses 
requiring  some  adroitness  in  putting  them  in  nicely,  unless  the  material  is 
thick  like  velvet,  or  is  made  so  by  w'adding. 

The  next  step  in  making  the  dress  is  to  finish  the  sleeves.  They  should 
be  slipped  on  the  arm  while  the  Avaist  is  on,  and  pinned  to  the  shoulders. 
Very  much  depends  upon  the  fit  of  the  sleeves,  and,  ev'en  if  cut  from  the 
best  of  patterns,  they  may  wrinkle  and  set  awry  unless  put  into  the  armhole 
properly.  The  latter  must  not  be  too  tight  or  cut  out  too  much  in  the  back. 

After  a basque  or  polonaise  is  finished,  it  should  haA'^e  a strong  belt 
•ew'ed  to  the  back  and  side  seams,  upon  the  inside,  to  fasten  the  front,  for 


1224 


DRESS  MAKING  AT  HOME. 


the  double  purpose  of  keeping  the  waist  in  place  and  relieving  the  strain 
upon  the  buttons. 

Putting  a garment  together  when  it  is  carefully  cut  is  a much  easier  task 
than  when  the  separate  pieces  are  not  accurate,  and  require  much  measur- 
ing and  trimming  before  they  can  be  nicely  adjusted  to  each  other.  If  lining 
is  put  into  either  a part  or  the  whole  of  an  article  it  must  be  tacked  upon 
the  back  of  the  pieces  before  they  are  basted  together.  Care  must  be  taken 
in  basting  not  to  stretch  the  seams  out  of  shape.  In  making  up  cloth,  the 
seams,  after  being  stitched  upo<i  a sewing  machine,  should  be  laid  upon  and 
pressed  down  with  a heavy  hot  iron.  Each  raw  edge  may  then  be  bound 
with  a narrow  ribbon  or  galloon.  This  will  give  a neat  finish  to  the  wrong 
side  and  keep  the  threads  from  raveling.  In  very  thick  cloth  the*seams,  af- 
ter pressing,  should  have  a galloon  laid  over  them,  and  hemmed  down 
slightly,  not  letting  the  stitches  shov*^  upon  the  right  side ; or,  with  a cloth 
with  a shaggy  face,  the  seam  may  be  sewed  up  and  finished  at  the  back  with 
a wide  fell,  which  must  be  pressed  fiat.  Thin  materials,  such  as  mohairs, 
grenadines,  etc,,  if  made  up  without  lining,  are  most  neatly  finished  if  the 
pieces  are  stitched  together  on  the  right  side  and  then  turned  and  sewed 
again  upon  the  wrong  side . This  keeps  the  garment  in  better  shape  than 
the  usual  running  and  felling. 

The  next  thing  on  the  programme  after  putting  on  whalebone  casings, 
is  to  face  the  bottom  of  the  basque.  It  is  then  ready  for  the  trimmimg, 
which  can  be  put  on  in  accordance  wfith  the  taste  of  the  designer.  Many 
ladies  wear  adjustable  waist  trimmings.  A bias  band  of  the  material,  for 
instance,  with  both  edges  trimmed  with  gimp  or  tiny  side-plaitings,  which 
goes  around  the  neck  and  meets  or  crosses  in  front,  half-way  between  the 
throat  and  belt.  This  is  left  off  at  pleasure,  to  make  room  for  a dainty  fichu 
of  mull  or  colored  silk,  or  for  a becoming  little  shoulder  cape  of  beads. 
These  very  expensive-looking  little  adjuncts  to  a dressy  toilet  can  be 
made  at  home  by  ladies  who  have  any  leisure  to  spend  in  fancy  work. 
Almost  every  young  person  has  some  middle-aged  friend  who  will  teach  her 
how  to  make  the  bead  fringes  which,  in  former  days,  decorated  the  square 
ends  of  crotcheted  silk  purses.  Those  fringes  were  made  of  fine  steel  beads, 
and  the  netted  beading  done  with  an  ordinary  sewing  needle.  The  beads 
now  used  are  cut- jets  of  a much  larger  size,  and  three  rows  of  the  fringe  are 
set  upon  a lace  foundation,  or  even  sewed  together  over  a paper  pattern, 
without  other  f round ation  than  a row  of  gimp  between  each  fringe,  which 
is  concealed  by  the  falling  strands  of  beads.  Trimmings  for  the  tabliers  o,. 
rich  dresses  are  made  in  a similar  manner  by  some  ladies,  who  also  imitate 
with  their  own  ingenious  fingers  the  gorgeous  seventy-five  and  fifty-dollar 
fabrics  which  are  sold  in  modest  quantities  for  trimming. 

In  cutting  a dress  from  plaid  goods  if  the  check  is  at  all  conspicuous,  it 
must  be  arranged  with  care,  or  very  ugly  effects  will  be  produced,  on  the 
waist,  particularly,  the  plaids  should  match  exactly  where  the  fronts  meet 
In  cutting  out  goods  that  are  striped,  have  a whole  stripe  appear  in  the  center 
of  the  front,  and  have  the  side-forms  in  the  back  present  a perfectly  matched 
appearance.  The  same  attention  should  be  paid  to  the  sleeves,  having  a cave 
as  in  all  materials,  that  the  parts  above  the  elbows  run  with  the  thread  length- 
ways of  the  cloth.  If  the  sleeve  pattern  is  too  short,  lengthen  it  equally  at 
both  ends  ; unless  this  is  observed,  the  set  of  it  will  be  changed. 

A round  skirt  is  easily  made  with  an  old,  well-fitting  skirt,  on  a paper  pat- 
tern as  a guide.  The  straight  side  of  each  gore  must  be  tow^ards  the  front. 
The  seam  in  the  front  is  not  tg  be  endured,  and  one  in  the  back  is  to  be  avoided, 
if  possible,  upon  any  skirt  which  is  not  to  be  worn  beneath  a polonaise  or 
overskirt ; but  for  an  overskirt  all  things  are  possible  in  the  way  of  piecingg 
and  joinings.  In  making  a trained  or  demi-trained  skirt,  if  it  should  appear 
scanty  and  hoop  in  the  back,  make  a cut  in  the  edge  deep  enough  to  relieve 


DRESS  MAKING  AT  HOME, 


1225 


it,  and  set  in  a V-shaped  gore,  which  may  be  concealed  by  tne  trimming,  or 
cut  shorter  slits  upon  each  side  and  set  in  gores. 

Machine  stitching  is  used  upon  dresses  and  trimmings.  Even  casnmere 
and  silk  ruffles  are  hemmed  on  the  machine  instead  of  being  laboriously  blind- 
stitched,  although  the  latter  mode  is  is  not  out  of  date  with  those  who  do  not 
mind  trouble.  It  is  now  acknowledged  by  the  best  dressmakers  that  nothing 
equals  coarse  alpaca  or  brilliantine  for  a skirt  facing.  Nearly  every  color  can 
be  matched  in  it,  and  it  looks  well,  wears  well  and  sheds  the  dirt  admirably. 
Braid  is  now  usually  not  felled  down  as  formerly.  About  a third  of  its  width 
is  allowed  to  project  befow  the  skirt,  which  is  thought  to  hang  better  than 
when  bound  with  the  braid.  It  should  be  sewed  on  by  hand  after  the  dress 
is  finished,  not  set  in  between  the  facing  and  outside,  as  is  sometimes  done. 
When  it  becomes  ragged  it  is  a simple  matter  to  rip  it  off  and  put  on  a fresh 
one.  Or,  a new  and  very  pretty  way  is  to  top-pleat  the  braid  in  small  pleats 
and  sew  it  just  inside  bottom  of  skirt,  thus  forming  a little  trimming  as  well 
as  a protection  and  doing  away  with  any  other  “foot  pleating.”  It  takes 
three  bolts  of  braid  for  an  ordinary  walking  dress. 

RENOVATING. 

If  the  silk  is  very  dirty,  spread  each  breadth  on  a large  table,  and  sponge 
it  upon  both  sides  with  warm  water  mixed  with  ox  gall. — Rinse  the  silk 
several  times  in  clear  cold  water,  changing  the  water  each  time.  Then 
sponge  it  upon  the  wrong  side  with  a very  weak  solution  of  glue.  Try  the 
experiment  first  on  a scrap  of  the  goods  till  you  find  it  as  stiff  as  new  silk 
should  be.  Dry  the  silk,  and  then  roll  it  up  in  a damp  towel  and  after  two 
or  three  hours,  iron  it  upon  the  wrong  side  with  a moderately  hot  iron. 
Black,  and  some  dark  shades  of  cashmere,  may  be  cleaned  by  the  same 
process. 

Where  a black  silk  has  a shiny,  greasy  look,  its  freshness  can  fre- 
quently be  restored  by  sponging  it  with  ammonia  without  ripping  up  the 
dress.  Where  a silk  of  any  color  becomes  more  defaced  with  spots  than 
actually  soiled,  the  spots  can  be  removed  by  rubbing  them  with  a mixture 
made  by  putting  half  an  ounce  of  camphor  and  an  ounce  of  borax  in  boiling 
water,  and  adding  to  it  when  cool  a teacup  of  alcohol  and  half  that  quantity 
of  ammonia. 

A favorite  way  of  cleaning  and  restoring  silk,  is  by  sponging  it  with  a 
preparation  made  by  boiling  a large,  unpeeled  potato  and  a kid  glove  to- 
gether for  a long  time.  The  glove  should  be  of  the  color  of  the  silk,  and  if 
the  shade  is  very  light,  the  potato  must  have  the  skin  removed  before  boil- 
ing. After  the  mixture  is  cool  add  a small  quantity  of  ammonia  if  the  silk 
is  very  dirty.  No  glue  or  gum  will  be  needed,  as  the  glove  furnishes  the 
proper  degree  of  stiffening.  After  sponging,  and  wiping  with  a dry  cloth, 
fold  the  silk  in  as  nearly  as  possible  the  form  of  new  silk,  or  roll  it  upon  a 
rod  covered  with  thick  cloth.  Avoid  ironing  it  if  possible,  as  the  texture  of 
the  silk  is  better  preserved  without  the  application  of  heat ; but  if  the 
wrinkles  do  not  disappear,  press  it  on  the  wrong  side  with  as  cool  an  iron 
as  can  be  efficiently  used.  The  glove  and  potato  treatment  is  excellent  for 
restoring  black  of  all  kinds,  even  veils  and  shawls. 

Another  way  of  cleaning  black  silk  is  first  to  thoroughly  brush  and  wipe 
with  a cloth,  then  lay  fiat  on  a board  or  table  and  sponge  well  with  hot  coffee 
thoroughly  freed  from  sediment  by  being  strained  through  muslin.  Sponge 
on  the  side  intended  to  show,  allow  to  become  partially  dry  and  then  iron  on 
the  wrong  side.  The  coffee  removes  every  particle  of  grease  and  restores 
the  brilliancy  of  silk  without  imparting  to  it  either  the  shiny  appearance  or 
crackly  and  papery  stiffness  obtained  by  beer,  or  indeed,  any  dther  liquid. 


1226 


DRESS  MAKING  AT  HOME. 


The  silk  rer  lly  appears  thickened  by  the  process,  and  this  good  effect  is  per- 
manent. 

The  f olio v/ing  method  of  cleaning  silks  has  many  advocates,  and  is  said 
to  be  admirably  adapted  for  delicate  evening  shades  : To  quarter  of  a pound 
of  soft  soap  put  a teaspoonful  of  sugar  and  a large  coffeecupful  of  alcohol. 
Wet  the  silk  all  over  with  the  mixture,  then  rinse  it  in  several  waters,  being 
careful  not  to  crease  it.  Let  it  dry  partially,  and  iron  it  upon  the  wrong 
side,  unless  it  is  smooth  enough  after  rubbing  with  a soft  towel.  There  is  a 
great  difference  in  silks  in  this  respect.  Some  that  are  very  soft  and  o-f  rich 
quality  will  be  smooth  and  unwrinkled  after  cleaning,  if  simply  smoothed 
with  the  hands  and  carefully  folded  ; others  need  thorough  pressing  with  an 
iron  to  put  them  in  good  shape.  Heat  takes  the  stiffening  from  silk,  and,  if 
it  is  found  necessary  to  iron  it,  it  is  well  to  dry  it  and  then  dampen  with 
water  in  which  a little  gum  or  glue  has  been  dissolved.  The  wisest  way,  as 
suggested  above,  is,  in  any  of  the  methods  given  to  try  the  whole  process 
upon  a small  piece  of  the  silk  to  be  cleaned.  Observation  will  then  indicate 
if  any  change  is  needed  in  the  operation  All  these  receipts  have  been  tried 
with  very  good  results  ; but  to  get  a good  result  in  cleaning  silk  takes  time, 
patience  and  backache. 

If  silk,  after  having  been  done  over,  or  refinished,  as  it  is  called,  looks 
well  enough  to  make  up  again  as  a dress,  it  is  very  important  that  new  lining 
should  be  used.  Save  the  old  ones  to  line  every-day  dresses,  but  be  sure  to 
buy  new  waist  and  sleeve  linings  for  the  silk,  or  it  will  fall  into  the  creases 
and  folds  that  wearing  has  produced  in  the  muslin,  and  have  an  old  expres- 
sion in  spite  of  all  the  trouble  that  it  has  cost.  If  the  silk  is  to  be  cut  up  for 
trimmings  it  will  pay  to  line  them.  Bias  frills  and  side-plaited  ruffles  can 
be  lined  with  coarse  Swiss  and  folds  and  bias  bands  interlined  with  old  thin 
muslin  which  lias  been  nicely  starched  and  ironed.  Attention  to  these  smad 
details  will  do  much  toward  giving  a new  look  the  material. 

Grease  spots  in  any  goods  should  be  taken  off  as  soon  as  they  appear,  as 
they  yield  to  treatment  much  more  readily  before  dirt  finds  a lodgment  in 
ihem.  Benzine  is  one  of  the  best  agencies  in  use  for  removing  grease  from 
woolen  dresses.  Some  people  consider  it  best  to  wet  the  spot  first  with  cold 
water,  and  apply  the  benzine  within  the  circumference  of  the  water-mark, 
asserting  that  even  upon  colored  silk  fabrics  no  trace  of  the  benzine  will  be 
left  after  exposure  to  the  air.  Taking  out  spots  which  have  destroyed  or 
impaired  the  original  color  is  a difficult  matter  and  one  that  will  need  ex- 
perimenting upon  in  each  case.  Sometimes  a mixture  of  camphor  and  borax 
is  efficacious,  and  in  others  strong  beer  is  a beneficial  application.  If  acids 
have  caused  the  trouble,  a weak  solution  of  ammonia  will  often  have  a good 
effect.  Sometimes  an  application  of  liquid  blacking  upon  the  faded  or  dis- 
colored spot  mends  the  matter,  but  that  succeeds  best  on  material  that  has 
a nap  or  rough  surface.  A solution  made  by  boiling  logwood  chips  in  a little 
water  is  said  to  be  very  good  for  restoring  the  color  of  black  cashmere  and 
other  smooth  woolen  goods.  It  should  be  applied  to  the  the  spot  with  a 
sponge,  and  the  operation  should  be  repeated  several  times  drying  the  goods 
after  each  application,  and  finally  pressing  it  with  a warm  iron. 

Men  have  been  heard  to  say  that  women  never  brush  their  dresses. 
However  untrue  that  sweeping  assertion  may  be,  it  is  certain  that  too  little 
attention  is  paid  to  freeing  dresses  from  the  dust  of  the  house  and  soil  of  the 
street.  It  is  an  excellent  plan,  npon  taking  off  a dress,  to  brush  it  carefully 
all  over  with  a small  (not  too  stiff)  wisp  broom,  giving  particular  care  to  ail 
trimmings  where  plaits  or  gathers  make  lodgments  for  the  dust.  If  there  is 
much  upon  the  dress,  j-ub  it  off  withja  coarse  towel  ora  wad  of  worsted  goods. 
An  excellent  brush  for  cleaning  woofen  or  silk  dresses  can  be  made  by  Cover- 
ing a square  block  of  wood  with  furniture  x>lush.  ^ For  all  silk  dresses  a piece 
of  flannel  removes  dust  nicely.  Ladies  who  are  in  mourning  suffer  much  in- 


DRESS  MAKING  AT  HOME. 


1227 


convenience  from  the  injury  caused  by  drops  of  water  falling  upon  their  crape 
for  each  drop  makes  a conspicuous  white  mark.  If,  while  wet,  these  are  clap- 
ped between  the  hands  until  dry,  no  spots  will  appear.  Jf  the  crape  has 
dried  without  their  removal,  lay  it  upon  a table  and  put  under  spots  a piece 
of  old  black  silk ; dip  a camel’s  hair  pencil  in  black  ink  and  paint  the  spots 
lightly  ; then  wipe  them  off  with  old  soft  silk,  and  the  color  will  be  restored. 

Partly  worn  fabrics  may  often  be  profitably  renewed  by  calling  in  the  dyer’s 
art.  Some  people  have  excellent  success  in  using  family  dyes,  and  for  them 
it  will  be  an  object  to  color  many  useful  things,  for  which  it  would  not  be 
worth  while  to  pay  a professional  dyer’s  charge.  Ribbons,  neckties,  trim- 
mings and  many  small  things  which  need  patience  and  careful  manipulation 
can  be  colored  beautifully  at  home.  Stockings,  linings  and  odds  and  ends 
that  might  not  otherwise  be  used,  can  also  be  advantageously  subjected  to 
the  amateur  process,  but  for  material  that  is  to  be  remade  into  dresses  it  would 
be  wisdom  to  employ  the  best  professional  skill.  Some  things,  like  merinos 
and  cashmere,  are  worth  dyeing  at  almost  any  price,  and  will  look  like  new 
when  they  are  done.  Silk  dyes  well  for  some  purposes,  but  will  never  look 
like  new  after  the  process,  even  if  the  dyer  promises  that  it  will ; hence  it  is 
a mistake  to  use  it  conspicuously  after  dyeing.  It  can  be  used  as  a basis  of 
a costume,  where  the  lines  are  broken  by  drapery,  etc,  or  it  will  cut  up  ad- 
mirably for  trimmings,  but  large  surfaces  of  it  should  be  avoided,  as  giving 
opportunity  for  the  eye  to  catch  sundry  symptoms,  such  as  streaks  and  a gen- 
eral limpness,  which  at  once  reveal  the  secret.  Iruh  poplins  dye  well,  but 
have  the  one  objection  of  shrinking  lamentably.  This  should  be  taken  into 
consideration  in  purchasing  one  of  light  color,  and  an  extra  piece,  sufficient 
for  a new  waist,  should  be  included  in  the  original  quantity.  Velvets  can  be 
colored,  but  although  the  nap  is  beautifully  raised  when  done  by  an  expert, 
they  lose  much  in  appearance,  and  a velvet  which  cost  ten  dollars  a yard  will 
have  the  general  expression  of  one  which  costs  less  than  a quarter  of  that 
sum.  The  cost  of  dyeing  velvet  is  very  great,  and  with  such  a result  to  be 
expected  as  has  just  been  explained,  it  would  be  much  better  to  buy  good 
new  cotton-back,  silk-faced  velvet.  Nearly  all  wool  materials,  unless  too 
loosely  woven,  color  well,  but  mixtures  of  cotton  and  wool  will  not  pay  for 
the  cost  of  dyeing.  Japanese  silks  and  silk-faced  matelasses  do  not  dye  satis- 
factorily. White  woolen  goods  will  not  as  some  people  seem  to  think,  take 
every  color : on  the  contrary,  there  are  but  few  shades  that  they  will  become. 
Light  and  Mexican  blue,  nut-brown,  slate,  stone  color,  lavender,  jacqueminot, 
scarlet,  rose  and  several  of  the  very  dark  new  shades  are  those  which  can  be 
most  certainly  obtained.  The  reason  for  this  limitation  is  because  the  sulphur 
with  which  the  wool  is  whitened  in  the  manufacture  prevents  most  colors 
from  taking  hold  evenly,  to  use  a technical  expression. 

A Ipaca  is  an  exception  to  most  fabrics  composed  of  two  materials.  It  dyes 
well  and  does  not  shrink  very  much.  In  most  materials  slate  color  will  dye 
black,  brown,  claret,  green,  purple  and  dark  blue.  Light  blue  will  dye  medium 
and  navy-blue,  purple,  crimson,  green,  prune,  claret  and  black.  Claret  will 
dye  brown,  black,  crimson  and  bottle  green.  Brown  will  dye  darker  brown, 
claret,  black  and  green.  Amber  will  dye  green,  scarlet,  crimson,  black  and 
brown.  Crimson  will  dye  black,  brown,  claret  and  dark  green.  A lighter 
shade  of  crimson  will  dye  black,  brown,  claret,  dark  green,  blue  ann  a darker 
self-shade.  Drab  will  dye  scarlet,  crimson,  green — both  light  and  dark — 
purple,  dark  blue  and  claret.  Light  green  will  dye  claret,  brown,  black  and 
crimson.  Dark  green  will  dye  brown,  black  and  claret.  Lavender  will  dye 
brown,  black,  garnet,  dark  blue,  green,  plum  and  prune.  Mauve  will  dye  dark 
blue,  black,  claret,  crimson,  green  and  purple.  Navy  blue  will  dye  brown, 
green,  claret  and  black.  Magenta  will  dye  purple,  scarlet,  crimson,  azuline 
and  navy-blue,  black,  browns  and  clarets.  Purple  will  dye  black,  dark  crim- 
son, claret  and  dark  green.  Pink  will  dye  blue  in  most  shades,  all  the  red- 


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DRESS  MAKING  AT  HOME. 


dish  tones  of  color,  medium  and  dark  blues,  black  and  most  of  the  dark 
colors,  including  greens.  Scarlet  will  dye  dark  green  and  blue,  black,  garnet 
and  crimson.  Straw  color  will  take  almost  any  color  except  light  blue, 
lavender  and  pink. 

Black  and  all  the  dark  colors,  if  grown  rusty  or  faded,  can  be  dyed  again 
the  original  color.  They  may  turn  out  a little  darker  , but  unless  the  material 
has  ugly  spots  which  require  more  dye  to  conceal,  the  color  will  be  nearly 
the  same  as  when  new. 

Plaid  goods,  if  thick  and  unmixed  with  cotton,  will  often  take  a plain  color, 
which  should  be  at  least  as  dark  as  the  darkest  shade  in  the  pattern.  Black 
and  white  checks  prove  an  exception  to  this;  as,  if  skillfully  done,  they  can 
be  dyed  scarlet  or  light  blue,  the  white  blocks  taking  the  color  and  the  black 
remaining  black. 

It  is  damaging  to  dresses  and  other  garments  to  lie  by  in  a faded  and  dirty 
state  ; therefore,  if  coloring  them  is  in  anticipation,  it  is  best  to  prepare  and 
send  them  to  the  dyers.  After  they  are  redressed  they  can  be  laid  away  till 
required,  and  will  take  no  harm. 

Velveteen  will  dye  and  look  very  well  at  first,  but  being  all  cotton  its  re- 
newed good  looks  fade  very  quickly.  For  furniture  or  house  decorations  it 
might  pay  to  have  it  done,  but  otherwise  it  is  hardly  to  be  advocated. 

In  coloring  the  old-fashioned,  home-made  preparations,  requiring  many 
ingredients  and  much  labor  in  preparing,  have  been  supplanted  by  the  “Dia- 
mond Dyes”  lately  introduced  and  kept  for  sale  by  all  druggists.  They  are 
aniline  dyes,  and  come  in  the  form  of  a powder,  put  up  in  papers,  and  labeled 
with  fuirinstructions  for  using.  The  preparations  for  using  these  dyes  are 
very  simple,  and  no  experience  is  required  if  the  instructions  are  implicitly 
followed.  The  color  card  shows  the  exact  shade  of  the  color  you  select,  and 
there  is  no  trouble  in  experimenting  to  get  the  right  shade.  Besides  the  dyes 
are  cheap  and  the  results  are  equal  to  those  produced  by  the  professional  dyer. 
There  are  several  manufacturers  of  aniline  dyes,  and  inquiry  at  the  nearest 
drug  store  wdll  secure  all  the  information  as  to  prices,  colors,  etc.,  that  may 
be  desired  by  any  lady. 


chilbren’s  clothin©. 

Very  few  grown  people  understand  the  hardship  it  is  to  little  folks  t'^'^ear 
outgrown  or  clumsy  or  ill-fitting  garments.  Boys  are  not  supposed  to  nave 
their  feelings  greatly  harrowed  at  the  sight  of  handsomer  clothes  than  their 
own  but  even  they  are  quite  alive  to  the  mortification  of  wearing  shabby  or 
ill-cut  and  ill-made  coats  and  trowsers.  The  trial  falls  most  severely  upon 
little  girls,  and  to  them  it  is  a bitter  one,  and  just  as  hard  to  be  borne  as  the 
afflictions  of  grown  people  are.  With  a keen  eye  for  beauty,  and  often  a 
natural  or  cultivated  taste,  a poor  child  is  ‘^^ometimes  condemned  to  wear 
garments  of  such  a hideous  character  that  sne  loathes  the  very  thought  of 
them,  and  actually  suffers  the  most  acute  mortification. 

There  are  mothers  v- ho  devote  too  much  thought  and  time  to  dressing 
their  children,  and  who,  by  words  and  acts,  lead  them  to  feel  that  to  be 
fashionably  and  elegantly  dressed  is  the  great  good  of  life.  This  is  a lamen- 
table mistake  to  make,  but  it  also  a mistake  for  a mother  to  attempt  to  im- 
bue her  child  with  an  indifference  to  dress  or  check  the  love  of  it  by  depriv- 
ing her  of  tasteful  clothes.  An  ugly  dress  draws  the  thoughts  of  the  w^earer 
to  itself  far  more  than  a pretty,  becoming  one  will,  and  a forlorn,  ill-dressed 
little  girl  will  grow  up  with  a longing  for  finery  that  neat  and  pretty  dress- 
ing will  not  often  develop.  . 

There  is  a good  deal  of  work  about  making  a dress,  even  if  it  is  a small 
one,  but  it  is  very  little  more  teouble  to  make  it  tasteful  and  stylish,  and  it 


DKESS  MAKING  AT  HOME. 


1229 


is  a ^.easanter  task  to  create  a pretty  thing  than  an  ugly  one.  Like  all  other 
arts  the  home  dressmaker,  it  takes  experience  to  make  a success  of 
children’s  dresses.  Amateurs  are  apt  to  take  fright  at  the  dressy,  elaborate 
style  now  in  vogue,  but  really  there  is  nothing  appealing  about  them  with  a 
plate  or  pattern  to  follow,  and  the  most  complicated  are  frequently  the  most 
easy  to  copy  in  old  material,  because  the  elaboration  helps  to  disguise  many 
makeshifts  m the  way  of  piecing  and  eking  out  scanty  trimmings. 

A dainty  little  miss  we  know  of  wears  a dress  for  her  “ Sunday  best” 
that  looks  as  it  might  have  been  selected  from  one  of  the  shop  windows.  No 
one  would  suspect  it  being  home-made,  much  less  made  mostly  of  a fabric 
no  longer  new.  The  foundation  was  a plain  princesse  form,  cut  from  a thin 
lining,  which,  by  the  by,  was  originally  a light  calico  morning  dress  of  one  of 
the  older  sisters.  Among  the  cast-off  clothes  of  the  family  were  small  por- 
tions of  two  very  old  silk  dresses,  one  a fine  black  and  white  check,  the 
other  a plain  dark  brown.  There  was  not  in  either  enough  in  quantity  to 
do  much  with  alone,  but  combined  there  was  sufficient  to  make  a very  good 
result.  The  silk  was  poor  and  thin,  but  it  was  carefully  cleaned  and  stiff- 
ened and  wherever  used  furnished  with  a thin,  coarse  Swiss  muslin  lining. 
Long  folds  of  the  two  silks  alternating  were  put  upon  the  front  breadth  per- 
pendicularly, reaching  from  the  throat  to  the  bottom  of  the  dress  in  the  cen- 
ter. Across  the  back  w’ere  narrow  gatliered  rufiles  of  check  silk  bound  with 
the  plain  brown.  The  upper  part  of  the  dress  was  of  white  Angora  gauze 
skirting,  which  was  but  twenty  cents  a yard,  and  resembled  a summer 
camel’s  hair.  The  fronts  were  made  in  sack  form,  meeting  over  the  long 
center  plaits  at  one  point  only,  about  equi-distant  between  the  throat  and 
waist,  and  cut  away  abruptly  above  and  below'.  The  back  was  long  and 
looped  over  the  ruffles  with  very  graceful  effect.  The  cuffs  were  of  check 
silk,  with  brow'll  bias  binding  upon  the  edge,  and  the  deep  round  collar  (al- 
most a cape)  w'as  in  the  same  order.  The  upper  part  of  the  dress  w^as  cov- 
ered w'ith  brown  silk  that  w'as  too  old  and  poor  to  be  fit  for  any  other  use ; 
but,  under  the  polonaise,  the  worn  places  did  not  appear,  and  the  flannel  was 
so  thin  that  it  required  a continuous  color  beneath  to  prevent  the  ugly  vari- 
gated  appearance  that  some  silk  and  bunting  toilettes  present.  The  polon- 
aise was  edged  with  three  row's  of  machine  chain-stitching,  done  with  coarse 
brown  silk,  and  w'as  not  a separate  garment,  being  sewed  in  with  the  shoul- 
der and  side  seams,  and  buttoned  in  the  back  w'ith  brown  buttons. 

Another  dress  of  the  same  little  lady’s  was  made  from  a pair  of  old  Tur- 
key red  curtains,  of  the  dark  color  and  heavy  quality  of  former  manufacture. 
The  dress  w^as  made  w'ith  a full  skirt  gathered  round  the  W'aist,  with  five  row's 
of  shirring.  The  blouse-w'aist  was  gathered  in  the  same  way.  The  deep 
collar,  cuffs,  wide  belt,  and  the  binding  to  two  ruffles  on  the  bottom  of  the 
skirt,  w'ere  of  Madras  gingham  in  indigo-blue  shades.  The  combination 
made  a very  quaint  and  stylish  dress,  and  was  modeled  from  a recently  im- 
ported one  of  much  more  expensive  material. 

Another  lady  who  prides  herself  on  her  ingenuity  made  a very  neat 
cloak  for  her  girl  from  an  old  pair  of  pants.  The  fronts  and  backs  W'ere  cut 
of  narrow  pieces  (it  could  not  have  been  otherwise),  with  seams  extending 
to  the  shoulder.  The  pockets  and  cuffs  were  in  good  style,  but  not  of  the 
same  material,  which  was  a brown  basket  pattern.  The  upper  parts  of  the 
sleeves  w-^ere  very  presentable,  but  the  under  halves  were  curious  mosaics  of 
patchwork,  telling  something  of  the  difficulty  with  which  they  succeded  in 
being  sleeves  at  all : but  n’importe,  nobody — not  even  a child — voluntarily 
offers  the  under  pjart  of  a sleeve  for  inspection,  so  its  secrets  need  never  be 
revealed. 

In  making  over  children’s  clothes  or  elders’  clothes  for  children,  there 
is  a double  advantage  in  combining  more  than  one  material.  Fresher  parts 
of  both  can  be  used,  and  harmonious  arrangement  of  colors  diverts  the  eye 


1280 


DRESS  MAKING  AT  HOME. 


from  the  want  of  newness  that  might  be  apparent  in  a plainer  dress.  In 
making  nse  of  diverse  fabrics,  there  is,  however,  one  all-important  thing  to 
be  kept  in  mind — there  must  be  a certain  harmony  in  color  and  method  in 
arrangement  observed,  or  the  effect  will  be  disastrous.  There  are  people 
with  artistic  tastes  to  whom  the  knowledge  of  what  is  fitting  and  appropriate 
seems  to  come  instinctively,  and  they  need  no  advice  ; but  there  manj^  busy 
mothers  living  so  far  from  our  great  cities  and  so  off  from  the  line  of  travel 
that  they  have  but  little  opportunity  for  cultivating  their  tastes  or  of  seeing 
what  is  fashionable,  and  often  but  little  time  to  give  the  subject  much 
thought. 

In  reading  over  the  ordinary  articles  upon  children’s  fashions,  one  is 
constantly  struck  with  the  similarity  of  the  materials  advised  for  their  cloth- 
ing, to  those  used  for  grown  people.  There  seem  to  be  no  especial  fabrics  re- 
served for  their  use.  This  fact  should  be  particularly  comforting  to  those 
w^hose  circumstances  compel  them  to  prepare  their  children’s  clothing  from 
their  stock  on  hand,  which  stock  is  generally  understood  to  be  worn-out 
dresses  of  mothers  and  sisters.  When  there  was  a marked  difiTerence  be- 
tween the  styles  of  child  and  adult,  the  wearing  cast-ofi  dresses  of  their 
elders  was  a real  and  bitter  trial  to  little  girls  ; but  there  is  no  trouble  about 
it  nowi  Nearly  everything  that  is  wearable  can  be  stylishly  used  under  the 
present  laws  which  govern  fashion.  Plaids  and  large  figures,  which  might 
be  grotesque  in  whole  dresses,  make  very  nice  vests  and  trimmings  to  light 
up  dull  looking  costumes. 

Old  brown  or  black  woolen  dresses  that  have  grown  rusty  and  faded,  but 
have  capabilities  of  usefulness,  can  be  refreshed  by  steeping  in  a weak  de- 
coction of  logwood.  Other  colors  in  all-wool  can  be  re-dyed  at  home  with 
the  ordinary  family  dyes.  It  should  be  remembered  that  it  is  much  easier 
to  re-color  goods  the  same  shade  than  it  is  to  make  an  entire  change  of  hue. 
It  is  best  to  match  the  color  that  the  material  w^as  originally,  and  saturate  it 
in  the  preparation,  following  the  usually  accompanying  printed  directions 
about  drying,  pressing,  etc.  It  is  a pity  to  spend  time  and  trouble  in  making 
up  dresses  which  will  look  forlorn  in  spite  of  the  pains  lavished  upon  them 
when  a previous  •'-dyeing  would  have  made  such  a wonderful  change  in 
their  appearance. 

The  present  very  universal  fashion  of  shirring  dresses  and  trimmings  is 
admirably  adapted  to  make  over  old  materials  into  children’s  clothes.  Worn- 
out  ruffles  can  be  closely  gathered,  or  gauged,  as  the  term  is,  and  all  the 
holes  and  thin  places  "made  invisible  by  the  process.  If,  for  instance,  a 
prudent  mother  has  laid  aside  the  flounces  from  some  old  skirt  she  has  long 
ago  taken  for  a petticoat  or  other  use,  she  will  now  reap  the  benefit  of  her 
carefulness,  and  find  herself  able  to  make  her  child  a dress  at  little  cost. 
Let  her  cut  a cambric  skirt  of  a proper  size,  and  cover  it  with  the  flounces, 
shirred  at  each  edge  with  two  gatherings,  and  a similar  row  through  the  mid- 
dle. The  shirrings  may  run  around  the  skirt,  and  the  lapping  of  the  rufiies 
may  be  concealed  by  a row  of  galloon  or  velvet,  o.r  the  flounces  may  all  be 
pieced  together  before  the  shirrs  are  made.  The  gathers  should  be  dis- 
tributed evenly,  and  sewed  firmly  down  upon  the  cambric. 

Another  mode  of  using  the  ruffles  is  to  set  them  on  the  skirt  perpendicu- 
larly ; in  this  case  the  middle  shirr  may  be  omitted  in  each  ruffle,  unless  they 
are  o-imr  five  inches  wide.  If  that  style  does  not  meet  with  apj)roval  a puff 
(made  of  the  flounces)  may  alternate  with  a close  strip  of  shirring  of  equal 
width  with  the  shirring  all  the  w^ay  around.  Again,  if  it  is  desirable  to  piece 
out  a scanty  pattern,  it  will  do  to  make  the  lower  part  of  the  skirt  of  the  ruf- 
fles closely  shirred,  and  cover  the  rest  of  it  with  the  dress  material.  Both 
waists  and  sleeves,  or  either  one  alone,  or  deep  yokes  and  cuffs,  may  be  en- 
tirely made  of  fine  shirring,  which,  it  will  readily  be  seen,  affords  a fine  op- 
portunity for  using  up  irregular-shaped  pieces  of  old  material,  as  it  is  of  very 


DKESS  MAKING  AT  HOME. 


1231 


little  consequence  how  many  pieceings  are  put  into  any  thing  that  is  so  closely 
gathered  up,  always  supposing  that  the  industrious  toiler  has  time  and  pa- 
tience to  do  the  pieceing.  Unlimited  patience  seems  to  l)e  the  attribute  of 
nearly  all  mothers,  but  time,  the  economical  ones  seem,  alas,  to  have  in  but 
a limited  supply. 

It  is  cruel  to  condemn  little  girls,  with  their  naturally  dainty  tastes  and 
love  for  pretty  things,  to  wearing  ugly,  ill-fashioned  clothes ; but  even  made 
out  of  such  materials  as  this  article  treats  of,  they  can  be  as  pretty,  if  not  so 
durable,  as  if  new  material  were  used. 

The  subject  of  boys’  wear  needs  consideration,  for  there  is  no  direction 
in  which  the  amateur’s  failures  are  so  distressingly  palpable  as  in  boys’clothes. 
The  unfortunate  little  sons  of  poor,  industrious  mothers  too  often  are  con- 
demned to  wear  garments  that  give  them  a hoj)elessly  awkward  appearance. 
Growing  boys,  at  their  best,  are  not  mirircles  of  grace,  but  well-made  clothes 
do  wonders  for  them  ; and  it  it  is  worth  while  for  those  who  have  the  work  to 
do  to  study  to  acquire  the  tailors’  style  of  finishing  garments,  without  which 
they  are  certain  to  have  on  uncouth,  home-made  air  that  condemns  them  at 
once.  It  is  quite  possible  to  learn  this  art  by  a little  practice  and  close  imita- 
tion of  the  finish  that  is  found  on  coats  and  other  articles  of  tailors’  work- 
manship. The  secret  of  style  in  men’s  clothes  is  in  pressing — not  such  press- 
ing as  people  ordinarily  do  with  the  gentle  gliding  of  a warm  smoothing-iron 
over  the  cloth — but  a vigorous  bearing  on  with  a heavy  iron  that  takes  all  the 
patience  and  strength  of  the  worker.  The  iron  should  be,  as  the  phrase  goes, 
“ red-hot,”  and  the  danger  of  scoiching  the  goods  averted  by  keeping  an  old 
wet  linen  cloth  between  the  garment  and  the  iron.  Later,  a finishing  smooth 
may  be  given  with  a cooler  iron,  through  a thin  dry  cloth,  to  take  out  the 
wrinLles  sometimes  caused  by  the  wetting. 

It  is  a great  mistake  to  suppose  that  when  a boy’s  garment  is  made  from 
the  cast-oflf  one  of  a man  it  is  not  worth  while  to  take  much  trouble  with  it, 
for  the  cloth  is  generally  of  a better  quality  than  that  commonly  purchased 
for  boys,  ^nd  the  worn  portions  can  all  be  cut  away  by  care  in  disposing  the 
pattern. 

Before  appropriating  cast-of  coats  or  pantaloons  of  the  father’s  to  replen- 
ish the  boy’s  v/ardrobes,  the  garments  should  be  brushed  well  and  ripped  up  ; 
then,  washed  through  two  suds  made  of  warm  water  and  very  strong  soap. 
For  reliable  colors,  a little  lye  can  be  added  to  the  first  water.  Do  not  twist, 
but  stretch  and  pull  the  cloth,  and  fold  up  each  piece  tightly,  and  squeeze  out 
the  water  by  pressure,  or  put  it  carefully  through  a wringing-machine. 
Rinse  again  through  two  waters,  with  a little  soap  in  the  first,  and  press  out 
the  water  as  before.  After  all  has  been  squeezed  out  that  can  be,  hang  the 
cloth  in  the  air  over  a line,  and  when  perfectly  dry,  roll  very  tightly  in  a 
damp  towel,  and  leave  for  several  hours,  or  till  the  next  day  ; then  iron  on 
the  right  side,  through  thin  muslin,  running  the  iron  over  till  the  cloth  is 
entirely  dry.  If  there  are  any  prominent  grease  spots  on  the  garment,  it  is 
best,  before  washing,  to  remove  them  wuth  turpentine,  potter’s  clay,  or  ben- 
zine. Stains  can  be  treated,  Ghough  not  always  with  success)  with  a mix- 
ture of  ammonia,  camphor,  and  water.  For  example — say  that  a jacket  is  to 
be  cut  from  a sack  coat;  having  washed  the  former  as  directed,  select  the 
simplest  jacket  pattern  and  lay  each  piece  upon  the  cloth  in  a position  to 
make  the  fronts  out  of  the  freshest  parts.  If  the  wrong  side  of  the  cloth  is 
best  worthy  to  be  uppermost,  that  should  have  been  pressed  instead  of  the 
outside  when  it  was  washed.  Sometimes  the  sleeves  of  gentlemen’s  coats 
are  made  in  one  piece,  with  but  one  seam,  and  that  upon  the  outside.  Such 
sleeves  can  often  be  used  for  the  back  of  a jacket,  while  the  original  backs 
and  parts  of  the  skirt  can  be  used  for  side  pieces  and  sleeves  for  the  jacket. 
In  tailoring  work  it  is  necessary  to  maintain  a rigid  adherence  to  the  pattern. 
Where  two  pieces  are  to  be  joined,  and  one  is  longer  than  the  other,  it 


1232 


DRESS  MAKING  AT  HOME. 


will  never  do  to  snip  off  the  extra  length,  as  some  careless  people  do,  but 
the  longest  side  must  be  held  in  in  sewing  till  the  extra  fullness  is  taken  up. 

In  putting  the  collar  on  the  jacket,  care  must  be  observed  not  to  stretch 
or  pull  it  out  of  shape ; it  should  also  be  held  full  enough  to  turn  over  easily 
and  the  seam  should  be  pressed  in  the  manner  mentioned  above.  If  possi- 
ble, a jacket  that  has  been  made  by  a tailor  should  be  made  the  model  of 
imitation  in  making  one  at  home,  and,  till  experience  has  made  the  details 
familiar,  it  should  be  referred  to  in  putting  in  pockets,  setting  in  sleeves,  and 
at  every  step  of  the  way. 

Small  pantaloons  are  readily  cut  from  larger  ones,  and  evofi.  when  the 
latter  are  seriously  impaired,  it  is  still  possible  to  make  good  new  ones  out 
of  them.  If  the  back  is  in  holes,  the  thin  parts  can  be  replaced  by  long  gore- 
shaped pieces,  such  as  are  seen  in  army  pantaloons,  and  a pattern  for  boys, 
sometimes  called  the  “cadet  pants,’’  can  be  procured,  if  such  a device  is 
needful.  In  cutting  the  fronts,  try  not  to  have  the  exact  spot  come  on  the 
knees  that  came  there  before,  but  have  it  above  or  below,  as  it  will  not  only 
wear  out  faster,  but  bulge  out  in  an  unsightly  fashion.  If  the  cloth  is  thin 
and  loosely  woven,  or  has  had  already  a great  deal  of  wear,  it  will  be  well 
to  line  the  little  pantaloons  throughout.  The  fly  should  be  lined  with  strong 
drilling  interlined  with  canvas  to  give  sufficient  support  to  the  button-holes. 
Short  knee-breeches  are  much  easier  to  make  than  long  ones,  and  take  such 
a small  quantity  of  material  that  two  pairs  can  be  ciit  from  one  pair  of  ordi- 
nary-sized men’s  pants  ; but  of  course,  after  a certain  age,  all  the  king’s  hor- 
ses and  all  the  king’s  men  would  be  a force  insufficient  to  compel  a little  boy 
to  give  up  his  inalienable  right  to  have  his  trousers  as  long  as  his  father’s  ; 
and  happy  the  mother  whose  young  son  does  not  insist  on  spring  bottoms, 
for  that  is  a touch  very  difficult  of  attainment  to  any  but  an  expert.  In  order- 
ing a pantaloon  pattern,  it  is  less  important  to  give  the  age  of  the  boy  than 
the  length  of  his  leg  (measured  upon  the  outside  seam) , as  height  varies 
much  in  similar  ages.  The  Ulster  is  a form  to  be  recommended  for  the  over- 
coat, where  new  cloth  is  used,  because  it  is  so  long  and  large  that  the  material 
can  be  made  into  other  garments  when  its  original  form  is  outgrown. 

In  making  underwear  for  the  little  ones,  the  best  “nightie”  is  that  called 
the  Perfect  Night  Dress.  It  is  waist  and  drawers  cut  together  with  feet. 
They  are  thus  perfectly  protected  even  if  the  covers  do  come  ofl*.  The  gar- 
ments can  be  of  flannel,  canton  flannel  or  muslin.  It  is  a great  aid  to  the  little 
folks  if  their  chemiloon’s  waists  are  made  open  in  frorit  as  they  can  then 
more  easily  learn  to  dress  and  undress  themselves.  There  is  not  any  reason 
why  this  should  not  be  done,  only  that  opening  in  the  back  has  been  the  way 
and  we  are  rather  slow  in  leaving  the  heathen  past.  The  night-dress  must 
open  in  the  back  to  allow  for  the  flap  which  buttons  up  in  the  back. 

ELDERLY  LADIES. 

T(oung  people  sometimes  feel  that  it  makes  little  difl'erence  how  mothers 
and  grandmothers  dress  as  long  as  they  themselves  can  make  as  fair  a show 
as  the  family  circumstances  allow — a mistake  which  is  unjust  and  prejudi- 
cial to  all  parties.  It  is  a disgraceful,  and  in  a great  measure,  a purely 
American  notion,  happily  banished  now  from  large  cities,  but  still  hanging 
about  the  country,  that  a young  lady,  even  if  her  parents  are  not  rich,  must 
be  gaily,  and  as  far  as  possible  richly  clothed,  and  be  able  to  show  soft 
jeweled  hands  as  white  as  the  piano  keys  she  touches  deftly  or  otherwise,  as 
the  case  may  be,  while  mamma  spends  her  overworked  time  in  the  meanest 
of  clothes,  and  by  reason  of  shabbiness  is  seldom  seen  by  her  daughter’s' 
friends,  or  by  any  one  else  except  at  church.  Too  often  it  is  conscience 
rather  than  choice  that  takes  her  there,  where  the  comfort  of  the  the  service 
is  swallowed  in  the  consciousness  of  the  utter  forlorness  and  awkwardness  of 


DEESS  MAKING  AT  HOME. 


1283 


her  appearance  in  obselete  dress  and  antiquated  mantilla  that  were  bought 
long  before  the  daughters  grew  up  to  monopolize  what  little  comfort  and 
luxurj^  life  in  narrow  circumstances  can  give.  The  mother  who  allows  her- 
self to  be  set  aside  in  this  wajq  and  brings  up  her  daughters  to  feel  that  hers 
is  the  secondary  place  to  theirs,  fails  dismally  in  her  duty  to  them  and  reaps 
her  reward  in  the  want  of  respect  rendered  to  her.  But  if  the  mother  of  a 
family  is  herself  to  blame  for  the  want  of  nicety  in  her  dress,  the  same  can 
not  always  be  said  of  the  grandmother,  whose  failing  strength  takes  her  par- 
tially out  of  the  active  cares  of  life,  and  who  ought  to  be  the  object  of  tender 
consideration  from  every  one  in  the  household  ; and  it  should  be  every  one’s 
care  to  have  her  comfortable  and  well-dressed — an  object  of  pride,  a sort  oi 
show-piece,  instead  of  a poor,  pushed-aside,  forlorn  object,  to  be  kept  out  of 
sight.  Some  clever  writer  says  that  a higlily-presen table  and  well-appointed 
grandmother  in  a family  is  a patent  of  respectability. 

There  is  no  arbitrary  dictum  requiring  certain  things,  but  custom  re- 
stricts them  to  a narrow  choice  of  color — brown,  purple,  blacky  and  gray  be- 
ing the  only  ones  allowed.  Artistically  considered,  brown  should  be  also 
excluded,  on  account  of  its  unbecomingness  to  the  dull  tints  of  hair,  eyes,  and 
complexion.  The  ideal  dress  for  an  old  lady — and  one  may  as  well  know 
what  the  ideal  is,  even  if  there  is  but  small  hope  of  investing  it  in  the  real — 
is  severely  plain  velvet,  with  soft  tulle  handkerchief  folded  across  the  breast, 
rich  lace  rufflesat  the  wrist  to  shade  the  withered  hands,  and  a decorous 
cap,  which  makes  no  attempt  to  be  a head-dress,  but  has  protecting  strings 
of  lace  of  ribbon  to  tie  loosely  under  the  chin.  We  can  not  all  dress  our 
dear  old  grandmothers  thus* grandly  and  picturesquely,  but  we  can  make 
them  comfortable,  and  fashion  their  clothes  as  tastefully  as  our  means  will 
allow,  remembering  that  the  love  of  pretty  things  to  wear  begins  with  a wo- 
man’s life  and  generally  lasts  as  long  as  she  does — perhaps  she  is  never  too 
old  to  be  gratified  with  a pretty  cap  or  dress. 

A black  silk  dress  is  not  always  a possible  thing  for  an  old  lady,  but  if, 
by  any  economy  the  purchase  can  be  made,  it  is  a wise  one,  for  it  will  last 
any  length  of  time  as  a best  dress,  and  be  such  a comfort  to  the  owner  as  to 
repay  any  sacrifice  incurred  when  it  was  bought.  It  should  be  made  very 
plainly . If  the  lady  is  very  stout,  and  likes  the  style,  it  can  be  made  a close 
fitting  Gabrielle  or  princesse,  but  the  usual  style  is  preferable.  The  waist 
should  fit  comfortably,  and,  unless  the  wearer  has  delicate  lungs,  may  be 
cut  ^dth  the  neck  open  down  to  the  waist;  and  filled  in  with  a lace  or  lawn 
handkerchief.  An  over-skirt  is  not  too  youthful,  if  not  long  and  entirely 
unlooped,  but  many  old  ladies  prefer  single-skirted  dresses.  In  that  case 
the  breadths  are  but  little  gored ; the  one  in  front  may  be  shaped  like  an 
apron,  and  the  others  left  straight  and  sewed  upon  the  waistband  in  large 
plaits,  except  right  in  the  center  of  the  back,  where  they  may  be  shirred  for 
a short  distance,  to  the  depth  of  an  inch  or  two.  The  bottom  of  the  dress 
may  be  left  plain,  or  may  be  bound  with  velvet  instead  of  the  usual  braid,  or 
may  be  trimmed  with  one  or  more  wide  flat  bands  or  folds  of  the  silk.  The 
sleeves  maj"  be  trimmed  at  the  hand  to  correspond  with  the  finish  on  the 
skirt ; and  if  the  waist  is  not  open  as  suggested,  a small  square  collar  trim- 
med in  the  same  way  can  be  added.  If  circumstances  do  not  allow  the  silk, 
black  cashmere  is  certainly  the  next  choice,  and  will  be  very  handsome 
made  up  in  the  same  way.  I*  can  be  made  to  look  richer  by  edging  the  folds 
and  bias  pieces  with  milliner’s  folds  or  narrow  pipings  of  silk.  Failing  the 
cashmere,  black  alpaca  of  the  best  quality  that  can  be  afforded  is  the  best 
substitute.  Silk  pijiings  are  not  so  pretty  upon  this  material,  but  their  place 
may  be  taken  by  galloon,  or  the  skirt  may  be  set  oflT  by  two  groups,  three  or 
four  in  each,  of  narrow  double  folds  of  alpaca. 

A comfortable  and  welcome  fashion  for  old  ladies,  which  was  perhaps  sug- 
gested by  the  rage  ^or  fichus  of  all  kinds,  is  a shoulder  cape,  in  shape  like  a 

78  - 


1234 


DRESS  MAKING  AT  HOME. 


Sontag,  except  that  the  fronts  fasten  like  a dress  with  buttons,  instead  of 
being  crossed.  This  is  made  of  black  silk,  quilted  in  tiny  diamonds  over  a 
single  thickness  of  wadding,  and  edged  with  a double  cord,  or  with  a very 
narrow  black  lace  plaited  on.  It  can  be  worn  with  any  dress,  and  is  becom- 
ing so  much  adopted  by  old  ladies  in  the  East  that  they  frequently  have  cloth 
or  crocheted  capes  of  the  same  made  to  wear  in  change  v/ith  the  more  dresssy 
one. 

Circulars  are  frequentl}''  mentioned  in  fashion  journals  as  being  well 
adapted  to  old  ladies,  but  they  are  really  far  from  being  the  best  shape  for 
their  wraps,  as,  having  no  sleeves,  they  drag  heavily  from  the  neck,  and  be- 
come very  tiresome.  A better  style  is  a loose-fitting  double-breasted  sacque, 
rather  long,  but  not  enough  so  to  be  heavy  and  burdensome. 

Caps  and  bonnets  are  delicate  points,  and  the  old  lady  whose  means  are 
too  straightened  to  allow  her  to  call  professional  skill  to  her  aid  (and  even 
that  is  not  always  equal  to  the  occasion)  is  fortunate  if  she  has  a friendly 
relative  with  taste  and  capacity  enough  to  undertake  the  critical  task,  which, 
to  be  successful,  should  be  really  a labor  of  love.  The  cap  should  be  pure 
white,  and  the  bonnets  black.  A well-defined  border  or  ruche  of  white  is 
pretty  and  becoming,  but  an  indefinite  mingling  of  black  and  white  in  either 
cap  or  bonnet  is  uilbecoming.  Small  bonnets  are  out  of  the  question  for  old 
ladies  who  need  a shape  that  will  amply  protect  the  head,  and  even  the  back 
of  the  neck,  where  so  many  nerves  center  that  embrace  the  slightest  oppor- 
tunity of  exposure  to  ache  remorselessy.  Still  the  bonnet  must  not  be  too 
large,  unless  to  shade  a large  fat  face  ; a small  head  and  delicate  features  in 
a great  coal-scuttle  of  a hat  look  like  a caricature,  and  the  beauty  of  a bonnet 
lies  in  its  fitness. 

They  say  there  are  no  old  women  in  modern  times,  so  it  would  not  be  safe 
to  mention  an  age  to  which  the  plainness  of  attire  advocated  in  this  article 
belongs.  But  it  was  designed  for  those  who  honestly  feel  themselves  beyond 
the  period  when 

“ One  a charm  from  dress  can  borrow." 


MISCELLANEOUS. 


1235 


MISCELLAISTEOUS. 

For  Ivy  Poison. — Apply  sweet-oil. 

For  Burns. — Apply  the  white  of  an  egg. 

Rust  in  Iron. — Kerosene-oil  will  remove  it. 

Lamplighters. — Make  in  proper  lengths  in  pine  wood. 

To  Scour  Tins. — Use  whiting  moistened  with  kerosene. 

To  Remove  Finger-ring . — Hold  hand  in  very  cold  water. 

Melted  Snow — produces  one-eighth  of  its  hulk  in  water. 

Squeaking  Boots. — Drive  a peg  in  the  middle  of  the  sole. 

Worms  on  Currant  Bushes. — Sprinkle  freely  with  buttermilk. 

When  to  Paint. — Oil-paint  lasts  longer  when  put  on  in  autumn. 

To  Drive  Nails. — Nails  dipped  in  soap  will  drive  easily  in  hard  wood. 

Morocco  Leather — may  be  restored  with  a varnish  of  white  of  an  egg. 

Leaky  Roofs. — A cement  made  of  sand  and  white-lead  paint  will  stop  leaks. 

Stove  Polish. — Add  little  sugar  or  alum  to  the  blacking  and  let  stove  be  cold. 

To  Keep  off  Flies. — Paint  walls  or  rub  over  picture  frames  with  laurel-oil. 

Door-latches  and  Locks — will  work  easily  and  quietly  if  oiled  occasionally. 

To  Clean  Ermine. — Rub  with  cornmeal,  renewing  the  meal  as  it  becomes 
soiled. 

Paint. — New;  woodwork  requires  one  pound  of  paint  to  the  square  yard, 
for  three  coats. 

To  Clean  Steel. — Unslaked  lime  cleans  small  articles  of  polished  steel — 
like  buckles,  etc. 

To  Harden  Wood. — Cut  the  wood  in  the  shape  desired,  and  boil  eight 
minutes  in  olive-oil. 

To  Clean  Russia  Iron,  mix  blacking  with  kerosene,  and  it  will  look  nearly 
as  well  as  new. 

Coal  Fire. — If  your  coal  fire  is  low,  throw  on  a tablespoon  of  salt  and  it 
will  help  it  very  much. 

Silverware; — Keep  in  paper  or  canton  fiannel  bags,  with  a little  piece  of 
camphor  gum  wrapped  in  a cloth  and  tie  the  top  with  a string,  and  it  will 
keep  as  bright  as  new. 

Ink  Spots  on  Books. — A solution  of  oxalic  acid  will  remove  them  without 
injuring  the  print. 


/ 


1236 


MISCELLANEOUS. 


Leahs  about  Chimneys — may  be  stopped  by  a cement  made  of  coal-tar  and 
sand,  neatly  applied. 

Postage  Stamps— v^iW  stick,  and  not  turn  up  at  the  corners,  if  the  face  is 
wet  after  applying  them. 

Berry  Stains. — The  fumes  of  a brimstone  match  will  remove  berry  stains 
from  a book,  paper  or  engraving. 

Varnish  for  Faded  Rubber  Goods. — Black  Japan  varnish  diluted  with  a 
little  linseed  oil. 


Mice. — Pumpkin  seeds  are  very  attractive  to  mice,  and  traps  baited  with 
them  will  soon  destroy  the  little  pest. 


Gas  Lighter. — This , is  very  convenient  and  some- 
thing which  every  house,  using  gas,  should  have. 


Dry  Paint — Is  removed  by  dipping  a swab  with  a handle  in  a strong 
solution  of  oxalic  acid.  It  softens  it  at  once. 

To  Keep  Walks  Clean. — Sprinkle  with  weak  brine  through  a water- 
sprinkler,  or  scatter  salt  along  the  walks. 

To  Clean  Black  Kids. — Add  a few  drops  of  ink  to  a table-spoon  of  salad- 
oil  ; rub  on  with  a feather,  and  dry  in  the  sun. 

Shingles. — Dip  well-seasoned  shingles  in  lime,  wash  and  dry  before  lay- 
ing, and  they  will  last  longer  and  never  take  on  moss. 

To  Clean  Straw  Bonnets. — First  brush  them  with  soap  and  water,  then 
with  a solution  of  oxalic  acid,  or  rub  with  a cut  lemon. 

To  Clean  Wells  of  Foul  Air,— -Throw  down  a pack  of  unslaked  lime. 
The  heat  procured  carries  out  the  foul  air  with  a rush. 

When  a Chimney  Takes  Fire-throw  salt  on  the  lire,  and  shut  off  the 
draught  as  much  as  possible,  and  it  will  burn  out  slowly. 

Dish-water  and  poured  about  the  roots  of  young  fruit-trees, 

currant  and  raspberry  bushes,  etc.,  facilitate  their  growth. 

Cheap  Paint  for  Iron  Fencing. — Tar  mixed  with  yellow-ochre  makes  an 
excellent  green  paint  for  coarse  woodwork  or  iron  fencing, 

Dirty  Coot  collars. — Apply  benzine,  and,  after  an  hour  or  more,  when  the 
grease  has  become  softened,  rub  it  or  remove  with  soap-suds. 

To  Renew  Stained  Floors— th2it  have  grown  a little  dull,  rub  thoroughly 
wdth  beeswax  and  turpentine.  Repeat  this  whenever  they  need  it. 

To  clean  kettles  easily,  pour  a little  hot  water  in  them  and  put  a cover  on*; 
the  steam  will  soften  the  dirt  so  that  it  may  be  easily  removed. 

Onion  Odors.— When  cooking  onions,  set  a tin-cup  of  vinegar  on  the  stove 
and  let  it  boil,  and  it  is  said  you  will  smell  no  disagreeable  odor. 

To  Soften  Leather.— The  best  oil  for  making  boots  and  harness  leather 
soft  and  pliable,  is  castor  oil.  A is  also  excellent  for  greasing  vehicles. 

Color  of  Paints  for  Tools. — Tools  exposed  to  the  sun  should  be  painted 
with  light-colored  paints,  as  they  reflect  instead  of  absorbing  the  heat. 

Powdered  chalk  added  to  glue  strengthens  it.  Boil  one  pound 
glue  with  tw0  quarts  skimmed  milk,  and  it  will  resist  the  action  of  water. 

To  Keep  Pearls  Brilliant.— Keep  in  common  magnesia,  instead  of  the 
cottonwool  used  in  jewel  cases,  and  they  will  never  lose  their  brilliancy. 

Brooms. — If  worn  sideways,  dip  in  hot  soapsuds  till  soft,  straighten  and 
lean  against  a flat  surface  to  dry,  then  trim  off  the  uneven  edges.  If  they  are 
dipped  in  boiling  suds  once  a week  they  will  last  longer. 


MISCELLANEOUS. 


1237 


Overshjes. — Mark  liame  of  owner  with  pen  and  ink  on  the  woven  inside 
lining. 

Cement  for  Cracked  5^^^)^’^5.’^Three  quarts  wood  ashes  and  one  quart  bar- 
rel salt,  mixed  in  a mortar  with  water. 

Nickel  Stove  Trimmings,  Etc. — To  keep  them  bright,  polish  with  a damp 
cloth  dipped  in  common  dry  baking  soda,  and  rub  with  oil  afterward.  Or 
simply  rub  with  a cloth  dampened  with  ammonia. 

To  Clean  Lamp  Chimneys. — Moisten  a small  cloth  in  kerosene  and  rub  ; 
then  wipe  them  clear  with  a clean  cloth. 

To  Clean  a Refrigerator. — Use  bicarbonate  of  soda  dry  on  a damp  cloth. 
Rub  the  zinc  well  with  it.  It  destroyes  all  musty  smell. 

Dish  Cloths — Mosquito  netting  that  has  been  used  for  a season  on  windows, 
may  be  washed  and  used  for  dish  cloths,  by  folding  together  and  stitching 
through  it. 

Sticky  Fly  Paper. — Thin  common  glue,  so  that  it  can  be  brushed  over 
manilla  paper,  then  when  it  is  quite  dry,  melt  together  one  ounce  castor  oil 
and  three  ounces  rosin,  and  spread  over  the  prepared  paper. 

Scrubbing  Brush. — The  advantage  of  the  brush,  as 
illustrated,  is  that  it  has  a handle  which  is  movable. 

Lime  in  Cans.  — Lime  ground  and  pulverized  for 
white- washing  purposes  is  put  in  cans  and  sold  by  drug- 
gists. It  is  convenient  in  form  and  excellent. 

To  clean  a brown  porcelain  kettle,  boil  peeled  potatoes  in  it.  The  porce- 
lain will  be  rendered  nearly  as  white  as  when  new.  This  will  also  take  ofl 
lime,  if  formed  on  any  kettle. 

To  Make  Shoes  Durable. — A coat  of  gum  copal  varnish  applied  to  the  soles 
olf  boots  and  shoes,  and  repeated  as  it  dries  until  the  pores  are  filled  and  the 
surface  shines  like  polished  mahogany,  will  make  the  soles  water-proof,  and 
make  them  last  three  times  as  long. 

Ebonizing  Wood. — Wash  any  close-grained  wood  with  a strong  boiling 
decoction  of  logwood  two  or  three  times,  allowing  the  wood  to  dry  between 
the  applications.  Then  wash  with  a solution  of  acetate  of  iron  (made  by 
dissolving  iron  filings  in  strong  vinegar) . 

To  Remove  Rust  From  a Stovepipe. — Rub  with  linseed  oil  (a  little  goes  a 
^reat  way) ; build  a slow  fire  till  it  is  dry.  Oil  in  the  spring  to  prevent  it 
horn  rusting. 

To  Cure  a Kicking  Cow. — Take  a strap  an  inch  w’ide  and  buckle  tight 
.iround  each  hind  leg,  just  above  the  hock,  tjght  enough  to  slightly  com- 
press the  ham-string.  Then  she  can  not  kick.  In  fly  time  take  in  the  tail 
with  the  leg  and  you  will  not  swear. 

Handles. — Knife  and  fork  handles  that  have  become  loosened  may  be 
fastened  by  taking  a piece  of  quill,  putting  it  into  the  handle,  and  pushing 
the  knife  or  fork  in  firmly,  after  first  heating  it. 

Branches  of  the  elder-bush  hung  in  the  dining-room  of  a house,  will  clear 
the  room  of  flies.  There  is  an  odor  which  the  insects  detest. 

An  Easy  Way  to  Clean  Silver  Articles. — Set  fire  to  some  wheat-straw, 
collect  the  ashes,  and,  after  powdering  it,  sift  it  through  muslin.  Polish  the 
silver  plate  with  a little  of  it  applied  to  some  soft  leather. 

To  Clean  Old  Marble. — Take  a bullock’s  gall,  one  gill  soap  lees,  half  a gill 
of  turpentine : make  into  a paste  with  pipeclay,  apply  it  to  the  marble^  let  it 
<1^  a day  or  two,  then  rub  it  off,  and  it  will  appear  equal  to  new ; if  very 
flirty,  repeat  the  application. 


1238 


MISCELLANEOUS. 


To  extract  Oil  from  Marble  or  Stone. — Soft  soap,  1 part;  fullers ’-earth,  2 
parts ; potash,  1 part ; boiling  water  to  mix.  Lay  it  on  the  spots  of  grease, 
and  let  it  remain  for  a few  hours. 

To  make  Boots  and  Shoes  Durable. — Apply  to  the  soles  four  or  five  succes- 
sive coats  of  gum-copal  varnish ; and  to  the  uppers,  a mixture  of  four  parts 
of  lard  to  one  of  rosin.  Apply  while  warm. 

To  get  Light  in  a Well  or  Cistern, — Reflect  in  it  by  a looking-glass.  Any 
steel  or  metal  lost  in  a cistern  may  be  drawn  out  by  lowering  a strong  mag- 
net. 

To  make  Artificial  ButUi . —Render  beef  suet  at  a very  low  temperature, 
churn  it  in  fresh  buttermilk  and  yolks  of  eggs,  and  treat  like  butter  when 
removed. 

Pounded  Glass — mixed  with  dry  corn-meal,  and  placed  within  the  reach 
of  rats,  it  is  said,  will  banish  them  from  the  premises  ; or  sprinkle  cayenne 
in  their  holes. 

Spots  on  Varnished  Furniture  are  readily  removed  by  rubbing  them  with 
essence  of  peppermint  or  spirits  of  camphor,  and  afterwards  with  “furniture 
polish”  or  oil. 

To  Keep  Seeds  from  the  depredations  of  mice,  mix  some  pieces  of  cam- 
phor with  them.  Camphor  placed  in  trunks  or  drawers  will  prevent  mice 
from  doing  them  injury. 

Furniture  Filling. — Mix  two  gallons  plaster  of  paris,  one  pint  flour,  one 
ounce  each  of  pulverized  pumice-stone  and  prepared  chalk ; add  one  half 
gallon  boiled  oil  and  one  gill  Japan  drying. 

Corn-Bread. — In  cutting  do  not  forget  to  hold  the  knife  perpendicularly, 
that  the  spongy  interior  of  the  loaf  may  not  be  crushed  into  heaviness. 

To  Blow  out  a Candle. — If  a candle  is  blown  out  by  an  upward  instead  of 
a downward  current  of  air,  the  wick  will  not  smoulder  down.  Hold  the 
capdle  higher  than  the  mouth  in  blowing  it  out. 

Time  to  Cut  Timber. — Hard  wood  for  timber  or  fire-wood  should  be  cut 
in  August,  September  or  October.  Hoop-poles  should  be  cut  before  frost 
comes  ; cut  at  other  times,  there  is  danger  of  worms. 

A Wet  Silk  Haf,— Shake  off  the  water,  rub  the  way  the  nap  lies  with  a 
clean  linen  cloth  or  silk  handkerchief,  and  hang  some  distance  from  the  fire 
to  dry  ; a few  hours  after,  brush  with  a soft  brush. 

To  make  Old  Farms/i  Dry.— “Sticky”  varnish  may  be  dried  by  applying 
a coat  of  benzine,  and,  after  two  or  three  days  apply  a coat  of  good  varnish, 
and  let  dry  thoroughly  before  using  the  furniture. 

Discoloration  on  Custard  Cups. — To  take  [the  brown  discolorations  ofl^ 
cups  in  which  custards  are  baked : Rub  with  damp  flannel  dipped  in  best 
whiting.  Scouring  sand  or  sand  soap  will  answer  the  purpose. 

To  Preserve  Steel  Pens.— Steel  pens  are  destroyed  by  corrosion  froin  acid 
in  the  ink.  Put  in  the  ink  some  nails  or  old  steel  pens,  and  the  acid  will  ex* 
haust  itself  on  them,  and  the  pens  in  use  will  not  corrode. 

To  keep  Russia  Iron  Pipe  or  Stoves  during  the  summer : Give  thern  a 
good  coat  of  coal-oil  all  over,  and  put  away  in  a dry  place.  In  the  fall  give 
it  a fresh  coat  of  oil  or  benzine,  and  rub  it  all  oflf  clean  and  dry. 

Buckeye  Polish. — Take  one  ounce  each  shellac  and  coal-oil,  half  an  ounce 
each  linseed  oil  and  turpentine,  bottle  and  keep  well  corked,  shake  well  be- 
fore using  and  apply  with  a sponge.  Good  for  marred  furniture. 


MISCELLANEOUS.  * 


1239 


ForVoultry. — Fish  are  an  excellent  food  for  poultry,  largely  increasing 
the  production  of  eggs.  Those  who  have  tried  the  experiment  have  discarded 
all  the  patent  egg-producing  foods  in  the  market,  and  feed  fish. 

Darning  Woolen  Socks. — Make  the  first  layer  of  stout  thread,  and  the 
cross  threads  of  woolen  j^arn.  It  makes  a firm,  smooth  darn,  which  wears 
well. 

Foot  Muff. — A cold  night  one  will  appreciate  this  and  for  aged  people  it 

is  a great  luxury. 

Painted  Pails. — To  draw  the  taste  of 
paint  out  of  new  wooden  pails  that  are 
painted  inside,  fill  the  pail  with  butter- 
milk and  soak  from  twenty-four  to  thirty- 

six  hours. 

Moles. — Procure  a small  pair  of  bellows  and  blow  the  fumes  of  burning 
sulphur  into  the  holes  made  by  moles  in  the  garden. 

Toast  Rack. — Where  one  has  not  a folding  toast  rack,  it  is  easy  to  im- 
provise one  by  taking  the  upper  grate  from  the  oven  and  placing  it  on  top  of 
the  stove  or  range,  and  toasting  the  bread  on  it. 

Chicken  Lice. — Whitewash  the  hen  house  and  nest  boxes,  putting  in  the 
wash  a good  deal  of  salt  or  old  brine.  Also  put  half  a cup  of  salt  in  the  bot- 
tom of  each  nest,  and  your  chickens  will  never  be  troubled  with  the  pests. 

Mustard  Plasters — If  molasses  is  used  to  mix  the  mustard  with  they  will 
remain  flexible  and  will  not  dry,  as  when  mixed  with  water.  Lay  a fine  . 
cloth  over  the  plaster ; then  it  will  heat  without  blistering. 

Paint  Buckets. — Fill  half  full  of  dry  dirt  and  there  will  be  no  trouble 
about  getting  the  paint  ofi" ; or  boil  ashes  and  water  in  them  until  the  paint 
is  soft,  wipe  out  and  wash  with  soap-suds  or  clean  with  turpentine. 

Covers  for  Jars. — For  covers  to  jars  that  have  none,  in  which  you  keep 
salt,  etc.,  use  a paper  flour  sack  ; cut  the  top  off  until  just  the  length  of  the 
jar  is  left,  then  slip  it  over ; it  is  so  much  handier  than  tying  every  time. 

White  Ink. — Make  by  stirring  Flake  White  into  clear  mucilage,  and  re- 
ducing with  w'ater  till  it  will  flow  easily. 

Curling  Plumes. — Sprinkle  a teaspoon  common  salt  on  a hot  stove,  hold 
plume  over  it,  and  when  air}'^  enough,  take  a butter  knife  or  pen  knife,  and 
curl  each  sprig  carefully. 

Furniture  Polish. — Take  a small  bottle  and  fill  it  two-thirds  full  spirits 
turpentine ; then  fill  the  bottle  up  with  the  best  linseed  oil.  Shake  well, 
apply  with  a very  thin  cloth,  and  wipe  ^ith  the  same.  This  will  make  the 
furniture  look  nearly  as  good  as  new. 

Varicose  Veins. — Procure  a rubber  banaage  one  and  one-fourth  incnes 
wide  and  swathe  carefully  the  entire  hmb.  Bathing  in  hot  water  wdll  relieve 
the  burning. 

Candles. — Mutton  tallow  is  perhaps  better  for  candles  than  beef  tallow, 
and  is  usually  cheaper . Prepare  the  wicks  for  tallow  candles  by  steeping 
them  in  coal  oil.  They  make  a bright  light. 

Bed-Bugs. — To  banish  bed-bugs  after  they  have  got  into  the  walls  and 
ceilings  of  a house,  close  all  doors  and  windows  and  burn  brimstone  or  sul- 
phur,"by  throwing  it  upon  red  hot  coals  is  an  iron  kettle  set  in  the  middle  of 
the  room.  Or  heat  a piece  of  iron  red  hot,  place  in  a kettle,  throw  in  the 


1240 


MISCELLANEOUS. 


brimstone,  and  leave  room  closed  for  twent3^-four  hours.  It  is  death  to  the 
vermin. 

To  Make  Hens  Lay  in  Winter. — Keep  them  warm ; give  wheat  screenings 
twice  a day  with  shelled  corn  at  night.  Feed  them  with  meat  scraps  when 
lard  or  tallow  has  been  tried,  or  fresh  meat.  Some  chop  green  peppers 
finely,  or  mix  cayenne  pepper  with  corn  meal,  to  feed  them.  Let  them  have 
a frequent  taste  of  green  food,  a little  giavel  and  lime,  or  clam-shells. 

For  Lice  on  Children. — Wet  the  head  in  just  clear  alcohol  or  whiskey ; or 
even  strong  cider  vinegar  will  do  the  work.  Sometimes  a second  appli- 
cation may  be  necessary  to  destroy  the  eggs  and  all. 

Moths  in  Furniture. — Dust  in  all  the  cracks  and  seams  pulverized  borax. 
Strong  alum  water,  spirits  of  turpentine  and  salt  mixed  together  and  used  to 
sponge  with  is  also  good. 

To  Make  Covers  for  Milk  Pans. — Bend  thin  barrel  hoops,  tie  or  tack  the 
right  size,  and  sew  over  them  pieces  of  thin  dairy  cloth.  Drop  over  the  pans 
of  milk  to  protect  from  dust  and  flies. 

To  Clean  Bottles. — Cut  some  raw  potatoes  in  pieces,  and  shake  them  in 
the  bottle  with  cold  water.  Or  use  shot,  gravel  or  tacks  instead  of  potatoes, 
or  kernels  of  corn  and  table-spoonful  of  ashes,  shake  and  rinse  thoroughly. 

Onion  Flavor. — A little  washing  soda  dissolved  in  the  water  used  for 
washing  knives  and  dishes  in  which  onions  have  been  cooked  will  remove 
the  strong  odor  that  remains  upon  them. 

Labels  on  Tin. — These  may  be  fixed  upon  tin  boxes,  etc.,  exposed  to 
damp  by  the  following  method  : White  of  egg  is  diluted  with  one-half  quart 
of  water  and  applied  with  a brush  to  the  surfaces  to  be  united.  A hot  iron 
is  then  passed  over  the  surface  of  the  paper,  so  as  to  coagulate  the  albumen. 

Hair  Falling  Out. — Steep  a handful  of  sage  leaves  in  a quart  of  water ; 
strain  and  dissolve  in  the  liquid  one  ounce  borax,  then  add  a small  teaspoon- 
ful of  spirits  of  camphor.  Wash  the  scalp  once  or  twice  a week  in  this 
preparation. 

To  Clean  Tin. — Use  sifted  coal  ashes,  moistened  with  kerosene  oil;  rub 
briskly,  and  wash  with  soap-suds.  This  will  make  all  tin  that  is  not  burned 
as  bright  as  new.  For  nickel  on  stoves  and  flat-irons  it  has  the  same  effect. 

Eye  Wash. — Cut  fine  a piece  of  beef-steak  an  inch  square  ; sprinkle  on  a 
little  salt,  put  in  a small  wide-mouthed  bottle,  and  pour  over  an  ounce  or 
two  of  vinegar.  Pour  a little  in  the  hand  and  bathe  the  eyes  several  times  a 
day. 

Rejnoving  Tar  From  Black  Silk. — Rub  some  lard  on  the  tar,  then  wash 
the  silk  with  castile  soap  and  soft  water,  rinse  well,  repeating  until  clean ; 
then  dry  by  pinning  to  a sheet  stretched  tight  on  ironing  board  or  carpet. 

To  Raise  a Nap  on  Cloth. — Clean  the  article  well,  soak  it  in  cold  water 
for  half  an  hour ; put  it  on  a board,  and  rub  the  thread-bare  parts  with  a half- 
worn  hatter’s  card  filled  with  flocks,  or  with  a teazel,  or  a prickley  thistle 
until  a nap  is  raised ; then  lay  the  nap  the  right  way  with  a hatter’s  brush, 
and  hang  up  to  dry. 

Black  Varnish  for  Chip  and  Straw  Hats. — Best  alcohol  four  ounces,  pul- 
verised black  sealing  wax  one  ounce  ; put  them  in  a phial,  and  put  the  phial 
into  a warm  place,  stirring  or  shaking  occasionally  until  the  wax  is  dissolved. 
Apply  it,  when  warm,  before  the  fire  or  in  the  sun.  This  makes  a beautiful 
gloss. 

Bed-Bugs. — Use  gasoline  wherever  they  are.  One  can  use  it  freely  and 
not  injure  the  floor  or  carpet,  as  it  does  not  leave  a grease  spot  like  keroser^. 
Do  not  use  it  with  a light  or  fire  near  it.  Air  the  room  well  alter  using. 


MISCELLANEOUS. 


1241 


Black  Ink. — To  one  gallon  of  water  either  hot  or  cold,  allow  two  ounces 
logwood ; stir  occasionally  till  it  is  dissolved.  Then  add  half  an  ounc®  bichro- 
mate potash,  and  one-fourth  ounce  prussiate  potash  ; stir  till  this  is  also  dis- 
solved, and  your  ink  is  ready  for  use.  This*is  xery  cheap  costing  about 
15  cents. 

Cabbage  Worms. — Into  a twelve  quart  pail  of  water  stir  a coffee  cup  of 
barrel  salt,  and  throw  three  or  four  handfuls  of  brine  on  each  cabbage  where 
worms  have  appeared  ; apply  about  twice  a week  and  the  worms  will  die.  Or 
dissolve  tablespoon  Persian  insect  powder  in  a gallon  water  to  every  thirty 
plants.  Or  simply  use  nearly  boiling  water. 

Dish  Drainer. — A home-made  one  is  to  put  an  old  tin  pan  witli  nail  holes 
in  the  bottom  in  a large  wooden  bowl.  The  dishes  will  be  clean  and  shin- 
ing and  wdped  with  much  less  trouble  than  usual. 

Sleeve  Protector. — When  w^ashing  dishes,  having  on  a clean  dress,  draw 
on  a pair  of  old  clean  stocking  tops,  hemmed  at  the  bottom.  These  are  easily 
drawn  on  and  off,  and  since  fashion  requires  that  sleeves  be  wmrn  too  tight  to 
roll  up,  one  can  thus  avoid  changing  dress.  These  are  nice  in  doing  many 
kinds  of  work. 

. Wood — may  be  fastened  to  stone  with  a cement  made  of  four  parts  of 
pitch,  four  parts  of  pow^dered  brick-dust  or  chalk,  and  one  part  of  beeswax. 
Warm  it  before  using,  and  apply  a thin  coating  to  the  surfaces  to  be  joined. 

Outside  Garments. — Bonnets,  cloaks,  hats,  shawls,  scarfs,  and  the  like, 
wdll  last  clean  and  fresh  much  longer  if  the  dust  is  carefully  removed  from 
them  by  brushing  and  shaking  after  returning  from  a ride  or  walk. 

New  Rope — may  be  made  pliable  by  boiling  in  w^ater  for  a couple  of 
hours.  Its  strength  is  not  diminished,  but  its  stiffness  is  gone.  It  must 
hang  in  a warm  room  until  thoroughly  dried,  and  must  not  bq  allow^ed  to 
kink. 

Razor  Strops — are  kept  in  order  by  applying  a few  drops  of  sweet-oil. 
After  using  a strap,  the  razor  takes  a keen  edge  by  passing  it  over  the  palm 
of  the  w’arm  hand;  dipping  it  in  warm  water  always  makes  it  cut  more 
keenly. 

Mica  Windows — in  stoves  (often  wrongly  called  ‘‘isinglass’’),  when 
smoked,  are  readily  cleaned  by  taking  out  and  thoroughly  washing  with 
vinegar  a little  diluted.  If  the  black  does  not  come  off  at  once,  let  it  soak 
a little. 

Snow  on  Roofs — may  be  prevented  filling  the  gutters  by  placing  small 
stools  or  benches  along  in  the  gutters  upon  which  the  snow  will  lodge,  thus 
thus  leaving  a clean  space  below  for  the  water  to  run  off. 

Medicine  Spoon. — Have  a 
a tea  or  table  spoon  bent  in 
this  shape,  in  order  to  stand 
level  when  medicine  is  to  be 
dropped  i nto  it.  It  is  very  con- 
venient  where  there  is  only  one 

person  caring  for  the  sicn. 

Arrange  Flat-irons— on  the  stove  in  two  row^s,  “heel  and  toe,”  or  so  that 
when  ready  for  a hot  flat  you  can  take  the  next  one  in  order  without  loss  of 
time  in  trying  or  “sissing”  them,  being  sure  to  get  the  one  that  has  been 
heated  the  longest. 

Chapped  Hands. — Grind  one  side  of  a ymmice  stone;  wet,  and  with  the 
smooth  side,  rub  the  hands.  If  badly  chapped,  oil  them  at  night,  and  dry  in 


1242 


MISCELLANEOUS. 


by  the  fire ; or,  at  night,  wet  the  hands,  and  rub  a little  honey  oyer  them, 
drying  it  in  before  the  fire. 

Chickadees  in  Winter. — A 'cup  of  pumpkin-seeds,  set  on  the  window-sill, 
will  attract  chickadees,  and  they  will  become  quite  tame,  and  are  very  amus- 
ing with  their  antics.  They  may  be  kept  about  the  house  from  December  to 
May  by  feeding  and  kind  treatment. 

Shellac  Varnish. — Put  schellac  in  a bottle,  pour  90  per  cent,  alcohol  to 
cover,  cork  tight  and  put  in  a warm  room,  shake  occasionally,  and  if  not  all 
dissolved  in  three  or  four  days,  add  more  alcohol.  This  is  good  to  varnish 
almost  anything,  and  will  dry  in  half  an  hour. 

Friction  Matches — should  never  be  left  vhere  the  mice  will  get  them, 
as  they  carry  them  to  their  nests,  and  sometimes  ignite  them.  They  are 
poisonous  to  children,  and  are  dangerous  to  women,  who  ignite  them  by 
stepping  on  them,  endangering  their  clothing  from  fire. 

Piling  Wood. — Lay  the  sticks  with  bark  side  down  and  bark  will  come  off 
in  drying.  If  laid  with  bark  up,  it  will  remain  fast  to  the  wood. 

To  Prevent  Pumps  from  Freezing. — Take  out  the  lower  valve  in  the  fall, 
and  drive  a tack  under  it,  projecting  in  such  a way  that  it  can  not  quite 
close.  The  water  will  then  leak  back  into  the  well  or  cistern,  while  the 
working  qualities  of  the  pump  will  not  be  damaged. 

Valuable  Cement. — Two  parts,  by  weight,  of  common  pitch  and  one  part 
gutta  percha,  melted  together  in  an  iron  vessel,  makes  a cement  that  holds 
together,  with  wonderful  tenacity,  wood,  stone,  ivory,  leather,  porcelain, 
silk,  woolen  or  cotton.  It  is  well  adapted  to  aquariums. 

Cows  and  Turnips. — To  prevent  the  odor  and  flavor  of  turnips  from  ap- 
pearing in  the  milk,  feed  while  milking,  and  the  flavor  will  have  dis- 
peared  before  the  next  milking.  With  this  precaution,  feeding  turnips  will 
increase  the  flow  without  injuring  the  quality  or  flavor  of  milk. 

To  Clean  Varnished  Furnitur-’.,  there  is  nothing  so  good  as  a woolen  rag 
dampened  in  spirits  of  turpentine.  This  takes  all  the  dust  and  cloud  from 
carvings  and  panels.  When  they  have  been  thoroughly  cleaned  with  the 
turpentine,  go  over  the  surface  again  with  a bit  of  flannel  dipped  in  linseed 
oil,  rubbing  it  well  into  the  wood. 

Dried  Grated  Corn. — One  of  the  best  articles  for  drying  the  grated  corn 
for  Corn  Fritters  or  Oysters,  is  the  Fruit  Evaporator  as  described  on  page 
340 — There  is  then  no  danger  of  burning,  as  is  often  the  case  if  dried  in  oven 
on  account  of  the  greater  quantity  of  milk  from  the  corn,  than  when  simply 
sliced.  One  must  be  very  particular  to  break  apart  the  little  lumps  as  they 
dry  on  outside,  so  inside  may  be  thoroughly  dried. 

To  Freshen  Old  Hickory  Nuts  for  Cake-Baking . — Put  large  ones  in  boiling 
water  for  half  an  hour  and  small  ones  for  a quarter  hour,  crack,  pick  out 
meats  being  eyeful  not  to  mix  in  any  pieces  of  shell  or  the  film  that  divides 
the  two  halves.  If  the  meats  seem  damp,  place  for  a few  moments  in  the 
oven  to  dry  out.  Now  place  in  a sieve  and  rub  gently  to  remove  all  the  dark 
portions  that  adhere  to  the  meats-,  and  they  are  ready  to  be  chopped  for  the 
cake.  Chop  very  fine  for  icings,  but  only  moderately  fine  for  cake. 

Use  of  Borax. — Borax  will  instantly  remove  all  soils  and  stains  from  the 
hands,  and  heal  all  scratches  and  chafes.  When  the  borax  is  dissolved  add 
more  to  the  v^ater,  until  at  last  the  water  can  absorb  no  more,  and  a resi- 
duum remains  at  the  bottom  of  the  bottle.  To  the  water  in  which  the  hands 
are  to  be  washed  pour  from  this  bottle  enough  to  make  it  very  soft.  It  is 
very  cleansing  and  healthy.  By  its  use  the  hands  will  be  kept  in  excellent 
condition — soft,  smooth  and  white. 


MISCELLANEOUS. 


1243 


Stove  Polish. — Add  to  one  pint  benzine,  one  ounce  pulverized  resin ; 
when  dissolved,  mix  any  good  and  finely  ground  lead,  using-  the  above  as 
you  would  water  for  mixing  stove  polish.  Apply  with  a small  paint  brush ; 
and  rub  it  smooth,  as  it  dries  rapidly ; when  dry,  polish  with  a soft  stove 
brush  ; very  little  rubbing  is  required.  For  sheet-iron  use  the  benzine  and 
resin  alone,  apply  with  soft  rags,  and  rub  rapidly  until  dry  and  shining. 

To  Kee})  Silk. — Silk  goods  should  not  be  folded  in  white  paper,  as  the 
chloride  of  lime  used  in  bleaching  the  paper  will  impair  the  color  of  the  silk. 
Brown  or  blue  paper  is  better;  yellow  India  paper  is  better  still.  Silk  in- 
tended for  dress  should  not  be  kept  in  the  house  long,  as  lying  in  folds  causes 
it  to  crack  or  split,  particularly  if  thickened  with  gum.  White  satin  dresses 
should  be  pinned  up  in  blue  paper,  with  coarse  brown  paper  on  the  outside 
sewed  together  on  the  edge. 

To  Keep  Paint-brvshes. — Turn  a new  brush  bristles  up,  open,  pour  in  a 
spoonful  of  good  varnish,  and  keep  it  in  that  position  until  dry,  and  the 
bristles  will  never  ' shed”  in  painting.  The  varnish  also  keeps  it  from 
shrinking  and  falling  to  pieces.  As  soon  as  a job  is  finished,  wipe  brush 
clean,  wrap  in  piece  of  paper,  and  hang  it  in  a small  deep  vessel  containing 
oil,  letting  the  brush  descend  into  the  oil  up  to  the  wrapping  cord.  This 
will  keep  painting  and  varnish  brushes  clean  and  ready  for  use. 

A Good  Cement. — Persons  who  use  brass  letters  on  glass  windows  or 
doors,  are  often  troubled  by  the  dropping  off,  from  unequal  expansion,  or 
from  too  violent  efforts  on  the  part  of  the  window-cleaners.  The  following  is 
said  to  be  a sure  cement.  It  should  be  mixed  just  before  using : Litharge, 
two  parts;  white  lead,  one  part;  boiled  linseed  oil,  three  parts;  gum  copal, 
one  part. 

Mosquitos. — Take  a piece  of  gum  camphor  about  one  third  the  size  of  a 
hen’s  egg,  and  evaporate  it  by  placing  in  a tin  vessel,  holding  it  over  a 
lamp  or  candle,  taking  care  that  it  does  not  ignite.  The  smoke  will  soon  fill 
the  room  and  expel  the  insects. 

Mucilage. — One  ounce  each  gum  tragacanth  and  gum  arabic ; put  into 
wide  mouthed  bottle  and  add  quart  cold  water.  Or  put  into  a cup  ten  cents 
worth  of  gum  arabic,  and  a piece  of  alum  the  size  of  a hickory  nut  and  fill 
with  soft  water;  put  it  where  it  will  keep  just  warm  until  all  dissolved. 
Then  add  water  to  make  half  pint,  and  bottle  for  use.  A few  drops  of  extract 
of  lavender  will  prevent  an}"  mucihige  from  molding  or  becoming  sour. 

To  Keep  Eggs. — Pack  in  either  August,  September  or  later  in  oats,  either 
end  down  in  barrels  kegs  or  boxes.  Fill  the  package  full,  head  or  nail  the 
package  and  place  in  dry  cellar,  and  turn  the  package  over  every  week  or 
ten  days. 

Cement  for  Wood,  Glass,  Marble  and  China. — Two  quarts  water,  one  and  a 
half  pounds  glue,  two  ounces  white  lead,  three  pints  whiskey;  dissolve  the 
glue  on  the  stove  in  the  water,  take  from  the  fire,  stir  in  the  lead,  and  add 
the  whiskey ; when  wanted  to  use,  warm  and  stir. 

Wash  for  the  Hair. — Use  salt  and  water  strong  enough  to  taste  quite 
salty  as  a wash  for  the  head  and  to  wet  the  hair  thoroughly  as  often  as  once 
in  two  or  three  days  ; one  might  think  it  would  make  the  hair  harsh  and  stiff, 
but  on  the  contrary  it  has  the  effect  of  some  soft  dressing.  Bay  rum  and 
glycerine  make  a good  dressing  also  for  the  hair. 

Scorched  Pood. — As  soon  as  you  discover  your  food  scorching,  plunge  the 
vessel  into  cold  water;  and  even  if  your  food  is  burned  on  the  bottom,  it  is 
saved  from  any  taste  ot  scorching.  Some  people  always  have  a pail  of  cold 
water  standing  by  the  stove.  Try  it,  and  you  will  be  surprised  at  the  effect. 


1244 


MISCELLANEOUS. 


Red  Edges. — Mix  red  diamond  dye  to  a light  or  dark  shade  with  cold 
water,  and  use  it  to  tint  the  plain  or  white  edges  of  your  hooks,  which  unless 
stained  or  gilded,  soon  look  soiled.  Apply  with  a brush,  holding  the  book 
firmly,  and  when  dry  rub  with  a cloth  till  no  more  color  comes  ofi. 

To  Clean  Wash  Basins  etc . — Rub  with  a little  baking  soda  on  a damp 
cloth,  it  is  also  good  to  clean  unpainted  wood  work ; and  a tablespoonful 
added  to  a pail  of  mop  water  will  clean  your^  floor  easily  and  make  it  look 
well.  Or  use  a little  kerosene  on  the  basin  with  a cloth,  rubbing  dry  with  a 
larger  cloth  and  expose  to  air  a few  moments, 

A Ventilator. — There  is,  in  these  days,  line  upon  line  and  precept  upon 
precept  upon  the  subject  of  ventilation.  Every  chimney 
ought  to  have  two  flues — one  for  smoke  and  the  other  for 
ventilation . The  form  of  ventilator  represented  in  cut  is 
neat  and  inexpensive,  and  fits  a space  in  a chimney  large 
enough  to  take  in  an  ordinary  stove-pipe. 

Cure  for  Sleeplessness. — Wring  a towel  out  of  cold  water ; 
fold  it  smooth  about  a quarter  of  a yard  long  and  and  eighth 
wide,  bend  the, head  forward,  lay  the  clotli  on  the  back  of  the  nead  just 
above  the  neck,  then  bind  a dry  towel  over  it  around  the  head.  It  cools  the 
brain. 

Hernia. — Take  a piece  of  adhesive  plaster  an  eighth  of  a yard  square , 
put  under  it  a small  piece  of  cotton  batting  and  a piece  of  linen — the  latter 
next  the  flesh  ; press  the  plaster  on  to  an  inch  in  depth  all  around.  Do  not 
disturb  till  it  wears  ofi" ; then  put  on  another  if  necessary. 

Renewing  Old  Rag  Carpet. — Have  the  carpet  very  clean,  dissolve  Dia- 
mond dyes  according  to  directions,  and  dilute  with  warm  water;  take  a 
breadth  at  a time,  and  lay  on  the  colors  with  a tooth  brush.  If  it  is  a dry- 
ing day  it  will  soon  do  to  walk  over. 

To  Keep  Celery. — Take  a box  five  or  six  inches  deep  and  large  enough  to 
hold  the  celery  you  wish  to  keep.  Fill  nearly  full  of  dry  sand.  Set  in  single 
bunches  in  the  sand  in  upright  position,  as  deeply  as  possible  ; pressing  the 
sand  close  about  each  bunch,  not  allowing  the  bunches  to  touch  each  other. 
Keep  box  in  cellar,  away  from  frost. 

To  Remove  Grease  from  Carpets. — Dissolve  an  ounce  of  pearlash  in  one 
intof  water,  and  to  this  add  a lemon  cut  into  thin  slices.  Mix  well,  and 
eep  the  mixture  for  two  days,  then  strain  and  bottle  the  clear  liquid  for 
use.  A small  quantity  poured  on  stains  occasioned  by  grease,  ail,  or  pitch, 
will  speedily  remove  them.  Afterward  wash  in  clear  water. 

Superfluous  Hair. — One  ounce  fresh  lime-stone,  and  one  dram  pure 
potassa,  to  be  reduced  to  a fine  powder  in  a mortar.  Wet  the  hair  first  for 
ten  minutes  in  warm  water.  This  mixture  formed  into  a thin  paste  with 
warm  water  and  applied  while  warm  will  effectually  destroy  superfluous 
hair  in  five  or  six  minutes.  It  should  be  removed  as  soon  as  it  begins  to  in- 
flame the  skin,  by  washing  with  vinegar ; this  softens  the  skin,  and  kills  the 
effect  of  the  alkali. 

Cement  for  Rubber  or  Leather. — Dissolve  one  ounce  of  gutta  percha  in  one 
half  pound  chloroform.  Clean  the  parts  to  be  cemented  ; cover  each  with 
solution,  and  let  them  dry  twenty  or  thirty  minutes  ; warm  each  part  in  the 
flame  of  the  candle,  and  press  very  firmly  together  till  dry. 

Insurance. — Suppose  your  barn  or  house  should  take  fire  to-night  and  be 
burned  down,  would  you  know,  without  investigating,  that  it  was  fully  in- 
sured and  that  the  policy  was  good  and  tight  ? Some  insurance  companies 
have  a keen  scent  for  flaws  in  policies  and  often  find  them.  Don’t  let  them 
find  one  in  .yours.  Always  insure  in  companies  known  to  be  sound. 


MISCELLANEOUS. 


1245 


To  make  Old  Paint  Dr-y.— Old  paint  which  is  “sticky”  may  be  made  hard 
and  dry  by  applying  a coat  of  benzine,  then  after  a day  or  two,  if  the  coat  of 
paint  is  good,  go  over  it  with  a thin  coat  of  laquer  mixed  with  one-third  of  its 
bulk  of  boiled  oil.  If  paint  is  thin  apply  a second  coat  in  which  more  laquer 
is  used. 

To  Renovate  Hat-hands  when  Stained  by  Sweat. — Dissolve  one  and  a half 
ounces  white  castile  soap  in  four  ounces  alcohol  and  one  ounce  each  of  sul- 
phuric ether  and  aqha  ammonia,  apply  with  a sponge  or  toothbrush,  rub 
smartly,  rinse  out  with  clear  rain-water.  This  is  equally  good  to  renovate 
cloth  with  fast  color. 

To  Thaw  Out  a Pump. — Pour  hot  water  directly  on  the  ice  through  a tin 
tube,  lowering  it  as  fast  as  the  ice  thaws.  Ice  may  be  thawed  in  this  way  at 
the  rate  of  a foot  a minute  ; while,  by  pouring  hot  water  into  the  pump,  the 
ice  would  hardly  be  affected,  the  hot  water  being  lighter  than  the  cold,  and 
rising  to  the  top. 

Water-proof  Shoes. — To  make  shoes  water-proof  and  make  them  last  a 
long  time,  dissolve  beeswax  and  add  a little  sweet-oil  to  thin  it.  Before  the 
shoes  are  worn,  warm  the  soles  and  pour  the  melted  wax  on  with  a teaspoon  : 
and  then  hold  it  close  to  the  fire  till  it  soaks  into  the  leather ; then  add  more 
till  the  leather  ceases  to  absorb  it. 

Diamond  Cement. — Dissolve  thirteen  ounces  of  white  glue  in  a tin  dish 
containing  a pint  and  a half  soft  water  (set  in  a kettle  containing  boiling 
water)  ; when  the  glue  is  dissolved',  stir  in  tliree  ounces  of  white  lead,  and 
boil  till  well  mixed ; remove  from  fire,  and  when  cool,  add  half  pint  alcohol; 
bottle  immediately,  and  keep  well  corked. 

A Good  Paste. — To  one  pint  cold  water  add  two  heaping  tablespoons  flour. 
Put  the  flour  in  a pan,  add  a little  of  the  water,  stirring  until  smooth ; then 
add  the  rest  of  the  water,  stir  thoroughly,  place  on  the  stove  and  stir  con- 
stantly until  it  boils.  After  taking  from  the  stove,  add  one-fourth  teaspoon 
ground  cloves  to  keep  it  sweet. 

Piece-Bags.— Whiio;  cotton  piece-bags  hung  in  the  linen  closet  are  a 
great  convenience  ; have  them  made  with  a string  to  draw  from  both  sides  ; 
mark  in  large  letters  in  indelible  ink,  “Merino  and  Cloth,”  “Cotton  and 
Linen  Sundries,”  “Dress  Pieces,”  “Old  Linen,”  “Worsted  and  Yarn,” 
“Old  Silk,”  “Thread  and  Tape,”  “Old  Gloves,”  etc. 

To  Remove  White  Spots  on  Furniture,  caused  by  a hot  iron  or  hot  water, 
or  to  restore  blistered  furniture. — Rub  with  a No.  1 sand-paper  somewhat 
worn,  or  apply  pulverized  pumice  stone  mixed  with  a few  drops  of  linseed 
oil,  then  with  a cotton  cloth  rub  on  some  shellac  varnish  thinned  well  with 
turpentine.  Or,  rub  with  spirits  of  camphor.  Or  pour  some  oil  on  the  spot, 
and  rub  hard  with  a soft  cloth,  pour  on  a little  spirits  of  wine,  and  rub  dry 
with  another  cloth.  The  marks  will  disappear  leaving  the  furniture  as 
bright  as  before. 

Weight  of  Grain. — Wheat  60  pounds  in  all  states  except  Connecticut, 
where  it  is  56 ; corn  56,  except  in  New  York,  where  it  is  58 ; oats  32  ; barley 
48  ; buckwheat  46  to  50,  but  generally  48  ; clover  seed  60,  but  64  in  Ohio  and 
New  Jersey  ; timothy  44 ; flaxseed  56 ; potatoes  60  ; beans  60,  but  in  Ohio  56, 
and  New  York  62. 

Unfermented  Wine  for  Communion. — Weigh  the  grapes,  pick  from  the 
stems,  put  in  a porcelain  kettle,  add  very  little  water,  and  cook  until  stones 
and  pulp  separate ; press  and  strain  through  a thick  cloth,  return  juice  to 
kettle,  and  add  three  pounds  sugar  to  every  ten  pounds  grapes  ; heat  to  sim- 
mering, bottle  hot,  and  seal.  This  makes  one  gallon,  and  is  good. 


1246 


MISCELLANEOUS. 


To  Cure  Worms  in  Horses. — Put  a handful  of  sifted  wood  ashes  in  a quart 
bottle,  and  fill  the  bottle  with  cider  vinegar.  It  will  foam  like  soda  water. 
It  should  be  given  to  the  horse  the  moment  it  foams.  Two  bottles  will  cure 
the  worst  case  of  worms.  Forty  years’  experience  attests  the  efficiency  of 
this.  Never  known  to  fail. 

Harmonious  Color  Contrasts. — The  following  list  of  harmonizing  colors 
will  be  found  very  useful  in  selecting  wall  decorations  or  colors  for  any  pur- 
pose : Red  with  green,  blue  with  orange,  yellow  with  violet,  black  with 
warm-brown,  violet  wdth  pale-green,  violet  witli  light-rose,  deep  blue  with 
golden-brown,  chocolate  with  light  blue,  deep  red  with  gray,  maroon  with 
warm-green,  deep  blue  with  pink,  chocolate  with  pea-green,  maroon  with 
deep  blue. 

Method  of  Bleaching  IStraw . — Dip  the  straw  in  a solution  of  oxygenated 
muriatic  acid  saturated  with  potash.  (Oxygenated  muriate  of  lime  is  much 
cheaper.)  The  straw  is  thus  rendered  very  white,  and  its  flexibility  is  in- 
creased. Or  bleach  by  simply  exposing  it  in  a closed  chamber  to  the  fumes, 
of  burning  sulphur — an  old  flour  barrel  is  the  apparatus  most  used  for  the 
purpose  by  milliners,  a flat  stone  being  laid  on  the  ground,  the  sulphur 
ignited  thereon,  and  the  barrel  containing  the  goods  to  be  bleached,  turned 
over  it.  The  goods  should  be  previously  washed  in  pure  water. 

A Match  Safe. — Most  people  think  any  kind  of  a match  safe  will  do,  and 
matches  are  placed  in  all  sorts  of  receptacles,  exposed  to 
all  sorts  of  accidents.  Occasionally  a baby  is  poisoned 
by  picking  them  from  the  floor  and  putting  them  in  its 
mouth,  and  oftener  houses  are  burned  up  by  stray 
matches  that  are  ignited  nobody  knows  how.  The  only 
proper  place  to  put  matches  is  in  a metal  box  with  a self- 
closing lid.  The  one  represented  in  cut  is  of  metal,  and 
.the  lid  closes  by  its  own  weight. 

To  Bleach  Linen . — Mix  common  bleaching  powder  in  the  proportion  of 
one  pound  to  a gallon  of  water ; stir  it  occasionally  for  three  days  ; let  it  set- 
tle, and  pour  it  off  clear.  Then  make  a lye  of  one  pound  of  soda  to  one  gal- 
lon of  boiling  soft  water,  in  which  soak  the  linen  for  twelve  hours,  and  boil 
it  half  an  hour.  Next  soak  it  in  the  bleaching  liquor,  made  as  above  ; and, 
lastly,  wash  it  in  the  usual  manner.  Discolored  linen  or  muslin  may  be  re- 
stored by  putting  a portion  of  bleaching  liquor  into  the  tub  wherein  the  arti- 
cles are  soaking. 

Raising  Tomato  Plants. — Take  building  paper  (any ’thick  paper  will  do), 
cut  in  pieces  eleven  inches  long  and  three  wide ; lay  one  end  over  the  other 
and  fasten  ; and  fill  with  dirt  after  setting  it  in  a dish,  (anold  waiter  is  good). 
Put  only  one  seed  in  a cup,  and  when  large  enough  to  transplant,  cut  the 
thread  which  holds  the  cup  together  and  set  the  cup  with  the  dirt  and  plant 
in  the  ground,  leaving  the  cup  around  the  plant  to  keep  cut  worms  away. 

To  make  a Long  Mat. — After  stringing  on  the  twine  the  small  pieces  of 
cloth,  muslin,  etc.',  as  described  in  the  Scrap  Mat,  cut  them  into  the  lengths 
required,  and  lay  them  side  by  side.  Sew  the  strips  strongly  together,  and 
clip  the  scraps  until  the  whole  mat  is  of  a uniform  thickness,  and  no  ragged 
pieces  stand  up.  To  make  the  rug  handsomer  let  the  piece  of  twine  intended 
to  go  outside  be  strung  with  pieces  of  the  same  color  and  material,  red,  black 
or  blue,  which  will  make  a border.  The  center  may  be  of  mixed  colors  and 
materials. 

Worms  on  Gooseberry  Bushes. — When  the  first  worms  appear  on  goose- 
berry or  currant  bushes,  sprinkle  thoroughly  with  strong  alum  w'ater.  Re- 
peat, if  necessary.  This  dries  up  the  worms  without  injuring  the  bushes, 
and  is  better  to  use  than  hellebore. 


MISCELLANEOr  G. 


1247 


Tying  Comforters. — Take  raveled  yarn,  wash  woolen  socks  and  mittens, 
when  worn  out,  cut  out  the  good  places,  and  lay  away;  then,  when  com- 
forters are  to  be  tied,  use  the  raveled  yarn,  leaving  the  ends  a little  long; 
they  “kink”  down  and  look  nice,  and  the  woolen  yarn  does  not  tear  the 
calico  as  cotton  yarn  does. 

Tile  Easel. — A very 
neat  contrivance  for 
holding  ornamented  tile 
is  an  easel  of  white 
wire,  and  is  represented 
in  one  of  the  accompan- 
ing  cuts ; in  the  other  it 
bears  the  tile.  Nothing 
neater  or  better  suited 
to  the  purpose  could  be 
devised.  The  very  beau- 
tiful decorated  tiles  now 
so  easily  obtained,  may 
thus  be  made  appro- 
priate and  effective  or- 
naments for  tables,  mantels,  etc. 

Soft  Eggs. — For  hens  that  lay  soft  eggs,  give  them  wheat  screenings; 
also  give  every  day  to  sixty  lowls  one  pint  of  the  following  mixture,  viz  ; A 
peck  of  ash  of  burned  bones  or  oyster  shells,  finely  powdered ; one  pound 
iour  of  sulphur,  one  peck  of  wheat  bran.  Mix  with  some  scalded  meal, 
«^ell  moistened  so  that  the  mixture  will. adhere  to  it.  This  supplies  a lime, 
which  the  shell  needs  to  make  it  hard. 

Kitchen  Economy. — Thiamay  be  practiced  eyery  moment  of  the  day  and 
in  not  any  one  thing  is  it  so  necessary  as  in  the  littles  that  may  be  wasted. 
The  bits  of  butter  sticking  to  the  plates  after  meals  if  carefully  saved  in  a 
small  tin  can,  will  in  a few  days  make  a good-sized  cake.  In  cooking  mush, 
or  mashing  vegetables  the  spoonful  or  two  left  in  saucepan  or  kettle  to  go 
into  the  dish-water  each  day,  would  soon  have  made  a meal.  Being  careful 
to  take  out  all  of  whatever  article  cooked,  will  save  quite  a little  during 
the  week  and  will  make  cleaner  dish-water. 

Care  of  Boots  and  Shoes. — When  they  are  water  soaked,  fill  with  dry  oats, 
and  set  away  from  the  fire  ; the  oats  will  absorb  the  water,  and  will  swell 
and  the  leather  will  be  prevented  from  shrinking. 

Movable  Table. — Have  it  three  feet  long,  eighteen  inches  wide,  and  two 
feet  and  a half  high,  with  stout  legs  and  castors.  A strip  of  molding  to 
stand  up  an  inch  and  a half  above  the  top,  placed  around  the  edges  to  keep 
things  from  slipping  off.  During  the  meal  it  affords  a convenient  place  for 
the  coffee-pot  out  of  the  way  of  the  little  toddlers,  also  for  an  extra  loaf  of 
bread,  extra  dishes,  and  so  forth.  You  can  have  it  made  at  a trifling  cost, 
and  it  saves  the  work  of  setting  and  cleaning  the  table  one  half  at  least. 

To  Cleanse  a Barrel. — Put  in  a quart  of  unslacked  lime,  then  pour  in 
three  or  four  gallons  of  hot  water,  bung  up  the  barrel  and  roll  it  about,  until 
every  part  of  the  interior  is  wet  with  the  mixture,  pour  out  the  lime  water 
and  rinse  with  clean  hot  water,  or  dip  tape  or  a long  piece  of  cloth  into 
melted  sulphur,  this  being  lighted  slip  one  end  into  the  bung  hole  and  fasten 
the  other  to  the  edge  until  the  sulphur  is  burned  off. 

Pasfe.— Dissolve  half  an  ounce  of  alum  in  a pint  of  boiling 
water;  to  this  add  an  equal  weight  of  flour,  made  smooth  in  a little  cold 


1248 


MISCELLANEOUS. 


water,  and  a few  drops  of  oil  of  cloves,  letting  the  w^hole  come  to  a boil. 
This  paste  will  keep  for  months,  and  insects  will  not  eat  it.  It  may  he  kept 
in  a glass  or  ordinary  ointment  jar,  and  will  often  come  handy. 

To  Clean  Lamp  Fixtures. — Remove  the  wick  and  boil  the  fixture  in 
strong  lye  water,  or  water  having  soft  soap  in  it,  for  three  hours.  A smok- 
ing lamp  treated  in  this  way  will  be  as  good  as  new.  For  simply  brightening 
the  burners  take  common  salt  and  strong  vinegar  mixed  and  rub  them  well, 
then  rinse  in  soapsuds  and  rub  dry,  they  will  look  like  new  ones  and  do  not 
cost  much. 

Quick  Dish-washing . — Have  dish-pan  nearly  full  hot  water,  with  a clean 
cloth  ; spread  a large,  thick  towel  over  the  table  at  one  side.  Wash  dishes 
quickly  and  turn  up  on  the  towel  to  drain:  dry  knives,  forks  and  spoons, 
then  wash  and  wipe  pans.  etc.  Pour  out  water,  spread  wiping  towel  over 
the  dishes  and  leave  them.  After  a while  set  them  away  if  you  like,  for  i^ 
water  was  warm  and  clean,  they  will  be  dry  and  shining. 

Rust  on  Flows. — The  following  preparation  applied  to  the  surface  wih 
prevent  any  rusting  on  plows  or  any  other  metal  surfaces  ; Melt  one  ounce 
of  resin  in  a gill  of  linseed  oil,  and  when  hot  mix  with  two  quarts  kerosene 
oil.  This  can  be  kept  on  hand  and  applied  in  a moment  with  a brush  or 
rag  to  the  metal  surface  of  any  tool  that  is  not  going  to  be  used  for  a few 
days,  preventing  any  rust  and  saving  much  vexation  when  the  time  comes 
to  use  it  again. 

Stocking  Knees. — Children’s  stocking  knees  can'be  mended  by  picking  up 
a row  of  stitches  below  the  hole  and  knitting  a strip  wide  enough  and  long 
enough  to  cover  the  hole  good.  Then  whip  down  the  edges  to  the  stocking 
with  yarn  the  color  you  knit  the  strip  with.  If  you  have  yarn  like  the  stock- 
ings it  can  hardly  be  seen.  JSTew  hpels  and  toes  can  also  be  knit  by  cutting 
off  the  old  ones,  and  picking  up  the  stitches.  Knit  the  heel  and  sew  in. 

To  Pack  Laces. — Fold  them  in  blue  tissue  paper  or  soft  linen,  because 
white  paper  contains  bleaching  acids,  and  discolors  and  decays  the  ribbon  or 
lace.  The  same  is  true  of  wdiite  shoes  or  gloves,  and  especially  silver  orna- 
ments. The  latter,  though  worn  every  evening,  retain  their  purity  and  bril- 
liancy for  months  if  kept  closely  in  blue  tissue  paper.  Shoes  and  slippers 
should  never  be  folded  together  without  a cloth  or  paper  between  them,  as 
the  sole  of  one  soils  the  upper  of  the  other.  Put  one  in  the  cloth,  turn  it 
over.  Then  add  the  other. 

To  Cleanse  Wool. — Make  a hot  bath  composed  of  water  four  parts,  urine 
one  part ; enter  the  wool,  opening  it  out  to  admit  the  full  action  of  the  liquid  ; 
after  twenty  minutes’  immersion,  remove  from  the  liquid,  and  allow  it  to 
drain ; then  rinse  it  in  clean  running  water,  and  spread  out  to  dry.  The 
liquid  is  good  for  subsequent  operations;  only  keep  up  the  proportions,  and 
use  no  soap. 

Fuller’s  Purifier  for  Cloths. — Dry,  pulverize,  and  sift  the  following  ingre- 
dients : Fuller’s  earth  six  pounds,  French  chalk  four  ounces,  pipeclay  one 
pound;  make  into  a paste  with  rectified  oil  of  turpentine  one  ounce,  alcohol 
two  ounces,  melted  oil  soap  one  and  one  half  pounds.  Make  up  the  mixture 
into  cakes  of  any  desired  size,  keeping  them  in  water  or  small  wooden  boxes. 
A less  quantity  can  be  made  by  using  same  proportions. 

Substitute  for  Casters. — Casters  on  heavy  chairs,  tables,  bed-steads,  etc., 
are  always  getting  out  of  order,  and  are  very  destructive  to  carpets.  A sub- 
stitute, which  is  a vast  improvement  in  every  respect,  is  a polished  half-globe 
of  steel,  with  a screw  projecting  from  flat  side.  This  screw  is  turned  into  the 
bottom  of  the  chair-leg,  and  the  rounded  and  polished  surface  rests  on  the  floor 
or  carpet,  and  the  chair  is  moved  with  ease  and  with  almost  no  wear  to  carpets. 
When  hard  wood  floors  are  used  a rubber  tip  is  better  than  steel. 


MISCELLANEOUS. 


1249 


Rat-trap. — The  cunningest  old  rat  may  be  caught  thus  : Set  an  ordinary 
steel  trap  on  a level  spot  near  his  run  or  haunts  and  set  so  it  will  spring  easy. 
Spread  a thin  piece  of  white  muslin  or  piece  of  old  bag  about  two  feet  square 
«ver  the  trap,  and  on  this  scatter  carelessly  some  crumbs  of  cheese  or  cake, 
but  not  too  many.  This  will  fool  him  and  he  will  be  caught  in  the  trap,  which 
should  have  a good  spring.  If  the  cloth'gets  bloody  or  soiled  change  for  a 
fresh  one  if  there  are  more  rats  to  catch.  Or,  fill  a common  w'ash  boiler  one- 
third  fuir  of  water,  and  sprinkle  over  the  surface  a few  handfuls  of  oats. 
These  will  float  on  the  surface  and  look  like  a tempting  feast,  but  the  rat  that 
ventures  in  is  drowned.  By  placing  a block  of  wood  in  the  center  large 
enough  to  float  one  rat,  its  cries  will  often  call  more  in.  This  trap  will  prove 
eflTective  when  others  fail. 

Foot  Stools. — Worn-out  hassocks  can  be  prettily  covered,  and  made  fit  for 
sitting  room  foot  stools  with  cuttings  from  carpets.  Cut  them  into  squares, 
bind  them  with  common  braid,  such  as  is  bought  for  the  bottom  of  ladies’ 
dresses,  and  then  sew  the  pieces  together ; a long  piece,  bound  top  and  bot- 
tom, will  go  round  the  stool  to  which  the  top  is  sewn,  and  a piece  of  strong 
glazed  lining  will  serve  for  the  under  part.  If  a round  shape  is  preferred, 
the  pieces  of  carpet  must  be  cut  into  triangles. 

Window  Hook. — It  is  often  difficult  to  find  or  contrive  a hook  on  which  to ' 
fasten  tlie  bird-cage  or  a hanging- 
basket,  which  needs  to  be  hung  op- 
posite.the  center  of  a window,  with- 
out marring  the  casing.  The  cut 
represents  a neat  hook  which  is  per- 
fectly adapted  to  the  purpose.  The 
two  upper  arms  end  in  rings  through 
which  screws  pass  into  the  upper  edge  of  the  window  casing,  while  the  end 
of  the  third  arm  simply  rests  against  the  front  of  the  casing.  It  is  firm  enough 
to  sustain  any  ordinary  weight. 

To -Remove  from  flour  sacks  : — First  Tvash  the  sack  in  cold  water 

to  get  the  starch  out ; then  rub  soap  on  the  paint,  put  it  in  pretty  strong  cold 
lye  water,  set  it  on  the  stove  and  let  it  come  to  a boil ; then  wash  it  in  the 
usual  way,  or  before  the  sack  has  been  wet,  grease  the  letters,  hang  up  by 
the  stove  half  an  hour,  then  cover  with  soap,  rollup  tightly,  and  let  soak  a 
few  minutes.  Then  wash  and  boil  in  the  usual  way. 

In  Knitting  children’s  hose  worn  above  the  knee,  it  is  a good  idea  to  knit 
a gore  for  the  knee  by  widening.  Begin  to  make  tw^o  stitches,  say  an  inch 
from  the  top.  Widen,  twice  every  three  or  four  rounds  till  the  gore  is  an 
inch  and  a half  or  two  inches  wide,  then  narrow  in  the  same  order.  The 
gore  must  of  course  be  exactly  opposite  the  seam. 

An  Excellent  Dust-pan. — Have  a tin  box  made  witli  three  sides,  the  back 
part  six  inches  high,  the  sides  sloping  down  towards  the  front,  let  it  be  level 
on  the  floor,  insert  a long  upright  wooden  handle  (a  broom  handle  will  do), 
in  the  center  of  the  upper  side  of  the  back  : a socket  must  be  made  for  the 
handle.  The  common  dust-pfins  that  have  to  be  held  with  one  hand  while 
the  dirt  is  swept  into  them  are  very  defective — with  one  made  in  this  way  it 
is  not  necessary  to  stoop  at  ail. 

Bedding. — Once  a week,  or  as  often  as  possible  the  year  around,  hang  the 
bedding  out  on  the  line  to  air  in  the  sun  and  wind.  This  is  not  only  a sani- 
tary precaution,  but  it  is  a great  pleasure  to  have  the  bedding  smell  so  sweet 
and  fresh.  If  there  is  anything  detestable  and  unwholesome  it  is  a bed  reek- 
ing with  the  accumulated  odors  of  washing,  frying  and  stewing  which  pene- 
trates to  the  remotest  corners  of  many  houses.  There  is  no  need  of  it.  Even 
the  poorest  can  have  fresh  air,  at  least  in  the  country. 

79 


1250 


MISCELLANEOUS. 


A SparkGuard. — Half  the  pleasure  of  an  open  fire  is  lost  if  there  is  not 
some  protection  against  sparks  that  are  more  prone 
to  fly  out  on  the  carpet  than  they  are  to  fly  upward. 
Guards  are  now  made  to  fit  any  shape  or  size  of  open- 
ing in  the  fireplace,  and  are  a perfect  protection 
against  sparks,  while  not  materially  shutting  in  the 
heat  or  affecting  the  draft.  The  frame  is  made  of 
woven  wire,  and  is  lined  with  guaze  wire. 

To  Clean  Ostrich  Feathers. — Cut  some  white  curd 
soap  in  small  i>ieces,  pour  boiling  water  on 
them,  and  add  a little  pearl  ash.  When  the  soap  is 
quite  dissolved  and  the  mixture  cool  enough  for  the 
hand  to  bear,  plunge  the  feathers  into  it,  and  draw 
them  through  the  hand  till  the  dirt  appears  squeezed  out  of  them  : pass  them 
through  a clean  lather  with  some  blue  in  it ; then  rinse  them  in  cold  water 
with  blue,  to  give  them  a good  color.  Beat  them  against  the  hand,  to  shake 
off  the  water,  and  dry  by  shaking  them  near  a fire.  When  perfectly  dry, 
coil  each  fiber  separately^ with  a blunt  knife  or  ivory  folder. 

Screens. — Ingenious  persons  may  make  screens  out  of  two-fold  towel  oi 
clothes  rack,  the  rack  is  covered  wdth  stout  unbleached  muslin  or  thin  can  ■ 
vas,  and  on  this  is  pasted  Japanese  wall  paper  that  is  very  effective.  The 
bars  may  be  stained  or  painted  according  to  fancy.  On  one  of  these  screens 
may  be  pasted  Christmas  and  birthday  cards,  arranging  them  very  prettily. 
The  spaces  may  be  filled  in  with  dead  gold  paper  having  a delicate  fl  riated 
design.  The  effect  will  not  be  unlike  the  Japanese  paper  screens.  Or  cover 
with  a soft  blue  paper  and  over  this  a flight  of  swallows  cut  from  dull  blac.ij; 
paper  may  be  placed. 

Hangers  for 
Plaques. — It  is  not 
easy  to  find  a safe  and 
convenient  way  of 
hanging  up  the  beau- 
tifully orn  a m e n t e d 
plaques,  now  so  much 
in  fashion.  One  of 
the  cuts  given  here 
shows  an  ingenious 
and  cheap  hanger, 
and  the  other  the 
hanger  in  use.  They  explain  themselves. 

To  Start  Seeds. — Use  good  manure  in  the 
hill ; cover  with  the  soil ; then  set  a common  bowl  where  you  wish  the  hill  to 
be,  and  bring  the  soil  around  it ; press  down  and  level  with  the  top  ; remove 
he  bowl  and  plant  in  the  bottom  of  the  hole  thus  made  and  lay  a pane  of 
glass  over  it  for  a few  days ; or  some  take  sod,  cut  into  squares  of  tw’o  or  three 
inches  soak  good  with  liquid  manure,  put  in  a sheltered  sunny  place  and 
put  a couple  of  seeds  in  each  square.  Then  later  in  the  season  the  pieces 
of  sod  can  be  put  in  the  garden  and  the  plants  will  not  be  stunted  by  trans- 
planting. Some  covering  should  thrown  over  them  if  there  is  likely  to  be 
frost  after  the  plants  are  up. 

Disinfectant. — Dissolve  half  drachm  nitrate  of  lead  in  pint  boiling  water 
also  two  drachms  common  salt  in  bucket  of  water.  Pour  two  solutions 
together  and  allow  sediment  to  settle.  A cloth  dipped  in  this  wUl  .«w«eten 
an  impure  atmosphere  immediately ; or  the  solution  poured  d<?wn  a sLok,  or 
other  pipes  or  over  aheap  of  refuse,  will  produce  like  results 


MISCELLANEOUS. 


1251 


To  Bleach  Feathers. — Place  the  feathers  from  three  to  four  hours  in  a tepid 
dilute  solution  of  bicarbonate  of  potassa,  to  which,  cautiously,  some  nitric 
acid  has  been  added  (a  small  quantity  only) . To  remove  a greenish  hue 
induced  by  this  solution,  place  them  in  a dilute  solution  of  sulphuric  acid,  in 
water,  whereby  the  feathers  become  perfectly  white  and  bleached. 

To  Oil  Floars. — For  light  color,  use  boiled  linseed  oil  clear,  rubbing  it  in 
thoroughly  with  a piece  of  flannel.  For  dark  color,  add  burnt  umber,  (a  small 
box  of  it  costs  25  cents),  making  it  darker  or  lighter  as  you  choose.  A very 
pretty  way  is  to  use  the  clear  oil  for  every  alternate  board,  and  for  the  others 
the  umber  and  oil . This  is  especially  handsome  for  narrow  boards,  (three 
inches  wide)  giving  a soft  pine  floor  the  appearance  of  oak  and  walnut.  It 
can  be  cleaned  with  clear  water. 

To  Destroy  House  Insects. — To  rid  a house  of  red  and  black  ants,  cock- 
roaches, spiders,  bedbugs  and  all  crawling  pests  that  infest  our  homes,  take 
two  pounds  of  alum  and  dissolve  in  three  or  four  quarts  of  boiling  water. 
Let  it  stand  on  the  stove  until  all  dissolved,  then  apply  while  hot  to  every 
joint  and  crevice,  in  your  closets,  bedsteads,  pantry  shelves  and  the  like. 
Brush  the  crevices  in  the  floor  and  base  boards,  if  you  suspect  they  harbor 
any  vermin.  Cockroaches  will  flee  the  paint  which  has  been  washed  in  cool 
alum  water.  If  in  washing  a ceiling,  plenty  of  alum  if  added  to  the  lime, 
it  will  also  serve  to  keep  insects  at  a distance. 

A Blower  Back. — One  of  the  most  diflSi- 
cult  things  to  dispose  of,  after  it  has  served 
its  purpose  in  kindling  a fire,  is  the  blower. 

It  is  too  hot  to  come  in  contact  with  carpet 
or  floor  or  wood  work,  too  hot  to  hang  up, 
and  in  fact  too  hot  to  dispose  of  in  any  w^ay. 

Just  here  a happy  thought  has  struck  some 
ingenious  fellow,  and  the  rack  represented 
here  comes  to  the  front.  The  difiiculty  is 
solved,  and  there  is  a place  to  put  the  blower 
after  its  work  is  done.  Like  many  other 
good  things  it  is  so  siruple  that  everybody  wonders  why  it  was  not  made  before. 

A Home-made  Lounge. — A long  packing  box,  such  as  may  be  had  for  a 
trifle  at  almost  any  dry  goods  store,  of  the  right  height,  lined  with  wall-paper, 
the  cover  put  on  with  Mnges,  and  if  of  more  than  one  board,  strengthened 
by  cleats  on  the  underside,  and  the  whole  neatly  cushioned  and  covered  with 
tastily  selected  calico,  makes  a very  pretty  lounge,  and  may  be  used  also  for 
a recepticle  of  the  best  dresses.  When  more  than  one  dress  is  to  be  stored 
in  it,  and  it  is  important  to  avoid  crushing,  a thin  board  resting  on  strips 
nailed  on  the  ends  inside  half  way  up  divides  the  box  into  two  equal  apart- 
ments. Place  the  dress  least  used  in  the  bottom,  drop  the  dividing  board 
into  place,  and  lay  in  other  garments  more  commonly  used.  Nothing  injures 
good  dresses  more  than  too  close  packing  and  much  folding. 

A Cheap,  Durable  Hearth. — Mix  sifted  wood  ashes,  salt  and  water,  mak- 
ing a stiff  mortar.  Pour  this  into  place  for  the  hearth,  and  beat  down  with  a 
maul  or  something  of  that  kind  ; as  it  beats  down  put  in  more  and  so  continue 
till  it  is  full  enough ; then  smooth  off  the  top  with  a knife  or  anything  that 
will  make  it  very  smooth.  Make  up  a big  fire  in  the  grate  or  fireplace  and 
let  it  dry  before  cracking.  If  it  cracks  put  more  mortar  on,  filling  the  cracks 
and  smoothing.  It  is  white  and  smooth  as  glass  almost,  and  very  hard. 
The  proportions  of  salt, and  ashes  are  a tablespoon  of  salt  to  one  gallon  of 
of  ashes. 

To  Hrive  Away  Ants. — First  of  all  perfect  cleanliness  is  essential.  Pul- 
verized borax  sprinkled  in  places  where  they  frequent,  also  the  free  use  of 


1252 


MISCELLANEOUS. 


green  wormwood  scattered  among  their  hannts  ; or  a sponge  can  be  wet  in 
sweetened  water,  squeezed  out  and  laid  upon  shelves  where  they  are  numer- 
ous. The  next  morning  plunge  it  into  boiling  water  and  the  intruders  will 
be  destroyed.  Repeat  this  a few  times  and  they  will  be  effectually  cleaned 
out.  Little  red  ants  cannot  trav<d  over  rag  or  wool  carpets.  Set  the  meat- 
safe  on  a piece  of  rag  carpet,  and  cover  the  closet  or  pantry  shelves  with 
with  flannel,  and  the  ants  will  disappear,  this  is  better  than  to  have  tar 
around  your  larder,  for  although  it  has  a healthy  pine  odor,  still  it  is  too 
strong  a scent  to  have  near  most  kinds  of  food.  Ami  last,  but  not  least,  ants 
of  any  color  or  size  maybe  driven  away  by  using  a solution  of  corosive  sub- 
limate in  alcohol.  Put  this  solution  on  the  shelves  and  in  the  crevices  of 
closets,  and  when  dry  cover  them  with  paper.  Applj-  with  a brush. 

Remedies  for  Roup. — This  disease  is  common  to  all  fowls,  the  result  of  cold. 
The  ordinary  symptoms, — swollen  eyes,  runiiiiig  at  the  nostrils,  and  the  pur- 
ple color  of  the  wodtles.  Part  birds  so  affected  from  the  healthy  ones,  as 
when  the  disease  is  at  its  height  it  is  as  contagious  as  glanders  among  horses^ 
Wash  out  the  nostrils  with  warm  water,  give  daily  a peppercorn  enclosed  in 
dough  ; bathe  the  eyes  and  nostrils  wdth  warm  milk  and  water.  If  the  head 
is  swollen,  bathe  with  warm  brandy  and  water.  When  the  bird  is  getting 
well,  put  half  a spoonful  of  sulphur  in  his  drinking  water.  Some  fanciers 
prescribe  for  this  disease  half  a spoonful  of  table-salt,  dissolve  in  half  a gill 
of  water  in  which  rue  has  been  steeped;  others,  pills  composed  of  ground 
rice  and  fresh  butter  ; but  the  remedy  first  nieutioned  will  be  found  the  best. 
As  Ihere  is  a doubt  respecting  the  Avholesomeness  of  eggs  laid  by  roupy 
hens,  it  would  be  as  well  to  throw  them  away.  The  pip  is  a white  horny  skin 
growing  on  tlie  tip  of  the  bird’s  tongue!  It  should  be  removed  with  the 
point  of  a penknife,  and  the  place  rubbed  with  salt. 

A Safe  and  Register. — It  sometimes  happens  thgt  houses  are  so  planned 
hat  a stove-pipe  passes  through  the  floor  to  the  room  in  second  story  before 

passing  into  the  chimney,  a drum  being  used 
for  heating  the  upstairs  room.  The  illustra- 
tion represents  the  upper  end  of  a safe  and 
register  through  which  the  pipe  passes.  The 
length  of  the  safe  is  equal  to  to  the  width  of 
the  joists  plus  the  thickness  of  the  floor  and 
the  lath  and  plastering.  The  space  between 
the  two  walls  (tin  or  Russia  iron)  of  the  safe  is 
three  inches  ; they  are  connected  together  be- 
low by  a perforated  cast-iron  circle,  and  above 
by  the  circle  shown  in  cut,  which  is  fitted  with 
a sliding  circle  which  opens  or  closes  the 
apertures.  When  open,  the  warm  air  from 
the  room  below  rushes  up  to  the  upper  room  ; 
when  closed  it  is  simply  a perfect  safe,  tha 
large  air  space  between  the  walls  being  per- 
fect protection.  The  slide  oi  the  register  is  operated  from  below  bv  cords 
which  drop  to  a convenient  distance  below  the  ceiling. 

Dges  for  Furs. — Brown— use  tincture  of  logwood.  Red— ground  Brazil- 
wood half  a pound,  water  one  and  a half  quarts,  cochineal  half  an  ounce ; 
boil  the  Brazil-wood  in  the  water  one  hour;  strain  and  add  the  cochineai ; 
boil  fifteen  minutes.  Scarlet  color— boil  half  an  ounce  saffron  in  half  a pint 
of  water,  and  pass  over  the  work  before  applying  the  red.  Blue— Ir^gwood 
seven  ounces,  blue  vitriol  one  ounce,  water  twenty-two  ounces ; boil,  f^iirple 
—logwood  eleven  ounces,  alum  six  ounces,  water  twenty-nine  ounces.  Green 

strong  vinegar  one  and  one  half  pints,  best  verdigris  two  ounces  (g»-ound 

fine),  sap  green  one-quarter  of  an  ounce ; mix  all  together,  and  boil. 


MISCELLANEOUS. 


1253 


Colors  for  Artificial  Flowers. — The  French  employ  velvet,  fine  cambric  and 
kid  for  the  petals,  and  taffeta  for  the  leaves.  Very  recently  thin  plates  of 
bleaclied  whalebone  have  been  used  for  some  portions  of  the  artificial  flowers. 
Colors  and  Stains: — Blue — Indigo,  dissolved  in  oil  of  vitriol,  and  the  acid  partly 
neutralized  wdth  salt  of  tartar  or  whiting.  Green — a solution  of  distilled  ver- 
digris. Lilac — liquid  archil.  Red — carmine  dissolved  in  a solution  of  salt  of 
tartar,  or  in  spirits  of  hartshorn.  Violet — liquid  archil,  mixed  with  a little 
salt  of  tartar.  Yelloiv — tincture  of  turmerie.  The  colors  are  generally  ap- 
plied with  the  fingers. 

Broom  Holder. — A place  for  every  thing  and  every  thing  in  its  place  ap- 
plies to  a brush- broom  as  well  as  to  other  household  neces- 
sities The  neat  wire-frame  represented  in  cut  is  one  good 
way  of  disposing  of  that  article,  and  may  serve  to  suggest 
to  ingenious  housewives  many  other  Ways  just  as  good. 

To  Make  a Handsome  Scrap  Mat. — This  is  good  work 
for  children.  Take  a ball  of  twine  and  a large  needle,  cut 
pieces  of  cloth,  muslin,  silk,  or  any  thing  you  have,  into 
squares  about  an  inch  each  way.  Thread  these  on  the 
twine  until  you  have  covered  about  three  yards.  Then  cut 
the  twine  and  fasten  it  well  to  prevent  its  slipping,  and  roll 
it  round  and  round,  taking  long  stitches  through  and  through 
to  keep  it  steady  and  flat.  When  quite  firm  take  a large 
pair  of  scissors,  and,  laying  the  mat  flat,  cut  the  rough 
edges  until  the  mat  is  pared  to  nearly  half  its  former  thick- 
ness. It  should  look  like  a child’s  worsted  ball,  and  is  the 
same  on  both  sides.  These  mats  were  made  during  the  vtrar 
by  the  Southern  ladies,  and  if  well  done  are  warm  and  pretty. 

School  Dinners. — In  preparing  them,  omit  the  pies  and  cakes.  There  is 
something  about  the  business  of  studying  and  teaching  that  renders  the  sys- 
tem unable  to  cope  with  these  delicacies;  put  up  instead  of  bread,  graham 
gems,  Johnny  cake,  crackers,  any  kind  of  meat,  canned  or  fresh  fruit,  rice  pud- 
dings baked  in  a small  basin,  baked  apples,  celery,  onions,  eggs,  pot  cheese, 
cornstarch  custard,  pickles  or  cheese  occasionally,  radishes,  once  in  a while  a 
little  honey,  jelly  or  marmalade,  or  even  sugar  on  the  bread.  I am  sure  that 
w'ould  be  variety  enough  for  one  term.  If  your  little  student  has  not  sufiJ- 
cient  appetite  to  relish  plain  lunches  without  much  variation,  he  is  not  in  a 
proper  condition  to  be  studying  at  all.  Hunger  is  the  best  sauce. 

How  to  Detect  Poison  Ivy. — The  poisonous  ivy  and  the  innocuous  kind 
differ  in  one  particular  which  is  too  easy  of  remembrance  to  be  overlooked 
by  any  one  who  is  interested  enough  in  the  brilliant-hued  leaves  of  autumn 
to  care  for  gathering  them ; The  leaves  of  the  former  grow  in  clusters  of 
threes,  and  those  of  the  latter  in  fives.  As  somebody  has  suggested  in  a 
juvenile  story  book,  every  child  should  be  taught  to  associate  the  five  leaves 
in  a cluster  with  the  fingers  of  the  human  hand,  and  given  to  understand 
that  when  these  numbers  agree  they  can  be  brought  into  contact  with  per- 
fect safety.  It  may  spare  our  readers  no  little  suffering  to  bear  this  point  in 
mind  during  their  October  rambles  in  the  fields. 

Oil  Stoves. — For  a kitchen,  help  in  saving  wmrk  and  fuel,  they  are  cer- 
tainly what  a friend  of  ours  claims  for  them.  ^‘Mine  is  a four  burner.  The 
oven  is  as  large  as  in  an  ordinary  cooking  stove,  baking  well  in  any  part, 
which  cannot  be  said  of  all  cooking  stoves.  I have  the  oven,  steamer,  boiler, 
and  sad  iron  heater,  the  cost  including  these  being  fifteen  dollars.  It  is  no 
more  work  to  keep  clean  than  a lamp,  nor  is  there  any  more  danger  of  explo- 
sion ; and  it  is  such  a saving  of  work  gnd  heat.  It  takes  five  gallons  of  oil 
per  month,  making  the  cost  of  fuel  sixty-three  cents  in  our  family  of  three. 


1254 


MISCELLANEOUS. 


I do  all  of  my  work,  even  the  washings.  I do  not  know  how  servants  would 
manage  them,  but  to  ladies  who  do  their  own  work  enough  can  not  he  said 
in  their  praise.  The  oil  can  I use  has  a pump,  so  it  is  very  easy  to  fill  the 
stove  when  necessary.  Ladies  have  asked  me  if  it  did  not  smoke.  It  does 
not  at  all,  if  kept  properly  trimmed  and  if  not  turned  up  too  high ; judgement 
has  to  be  used  as  with  every  thing  else.  I like  mine  so  well,  that  if  I could 
not  get  another,  twice  the  cost  of  it  could  not  buy  it. 

To  Prevent  and  Cure  Gapes. — If  the  chicks  have  been  troubled  with  gapes 
in  former  years,  set  the  coops  away  from  the  poultry  yard  this  year  on  fresh, 
well  drained  soil.  As  a further  preventive  use  the  ointment  we  have  before 
recommended,  made  as  follows:  One  lb.  lard,  one  oz.  liquid  carbolic  acid, 
two  oz.  coal  oil,  one  oz.  spirits  camphor.  Mix  by  melting  the  lard  and  stir- 
ring all  together.  Make  the  application  in  the  evening  when  the  chicks  are 
first  put  out  with  the  hen.  With  the  tip  of  the  finger  apply  just  enough  to 
moisten  the  down  on  the  head  about  the  beak,  under  the  throat,  and  at  the 
vent.  Repeat  twice  or  three  times  every  ten  days  or  two  weeks.  If  the 
gape  worm  gets  in  after  using  these  precautions,  drop  a pinch  of  air-slaked 
lime  in  the  mouth  of  the  chick,  or  put  the  affected  ones  in  a box,  and  a piece 
of  open  cloth  on  the  box.  Place  air-slaked  lime  on  the  cloth  and  jar  slightly. 
The  chicks  will  cough  and  sneeze  and  dislodge  the  worms.  Be  careful  not 
to  give  too  large  a dose  and  smother  the  joatients. 

Coal  Vase. — This  furnishes  a neat  receptacle  for  the 
coal-hod,  which  slides  to  its  place  inside,  completely  out 
of  the  way  and  out  of  sight,  and  for  the  poker,  shovel 
and  tongs,  and  is  withal  a very  neat  article  of  furniture. 

The  box  is  made  of  heavy  tin,  japanned  and  neatly  orna- 
mented. No  living  room  is  quite  complete  without  an 
open  fire,  and  no  open  fire  is  quite  complete  without  one 
of  them. 

A Unique  Umbrella  Stand,. — Go  to  a plumbing  or  pot- 
tery shop  and  buy  a common  red  tile,  such  as  used  for 
drains,  about  six  inches  across  and  three  feet  long. 

Paint  it  black,  two  or  three  coats  if  necessary;  then  get 
a large  supply  of  Japanese  scrap  pictures.  Cover  the  tile 
pretty  thickly  with  these,  and  give  coats  of  varnish  until 
the  flowers  and  figures  have  the  raised  appearance  some- 
times seen  on  china.  Then  get  a large  earthen  pie  plate 
or  meat  platter ; paint  it  black  and  cover  all  but  the  middle  of  the  dish  with 
scrap  pictures  in  the  same  manner,  and  varnish.  When  all  is  perfectly  dry, 
set  the  tile  in  the  dish.  Then  get  a small  bottle  of  liquid  gilding,  and  with  a. 
small  camel’s  hair  brush  gild  the  edge  of  the  dish  and  the  top  edge  of  the  tile 
The  whole  stand,  when  done,  will  cost  about  four  dollars,  and  will  be  very 
unique  and  beautiful. 

Care  of  a Carriage. — A carriage  should  be  kept  in  a dry  coach-house,  with 
a moderate  amount  of  light,  otlierwise  the  colors  will  be  destroved.  There 
should  be  no  communication  between  the  stables  and  the  coach-house.  The 
manure  heap  or  pit  should  also  be  kept  as  far  away  as  possible.  Ammonia 
cracks  varnishes  and  fades  the  colors  both  of  painting  and  lining.  In  wash- 
ing a carriage,  keep  out  of  the  sun  and  use  plenty  of  water  which  apply  with 
a large,  soft  sponge.  This,  when  saturated,  squeeze  over  the  panels,  and  by 
the  flow  down  of  the  water  the  dirt  will  soften  and  harmlessly  run  off,  then 
finish  with  a soft  chamois  leather  and  old  silk  handkerchief.  Never  use  a 
brush,  which,  in  conjunction  with  grit  from  the  road,  acts  like  sand-paper  on 
the  ■^‘’^nish  , scratching  it,  and  of  course  effectually  removing  all  gloss.  Never 
to  dry  itself  on  carriage  as  it  invariably  leaves  stains. 


MISCELLANEOUS. 


1265 


Uses  of  Charcoal. — Charcoal  laid  flat  while  cold  on  a burn,  causes  the  pain 
to  abate  immediately ; by  leaving  it  on  for  an  hour  the  burn  seems  almost 
healed  when  the  wound  is  superficial.  Tainted  meat  surrounded  with  it, 
is  sweetened.  Strewn  over  heaps  of  decomposed  pelts,  or  over  dead  animals, 
charcoal  prevents  any  unpleasant  odor.  Foul  water  is  purified  by  it.  It  is 
a great  disinfectant,  and  sweetens  offensive  air  if  placed  in  shallow  trays 
around  apartments.  It  is  so  very  porous  that  it  absorbs  and  condenses  gases 
rapidly.  One  cubic  inch  of  fresh  charcoal  will  absorb  one  hundred  inches 
of  gaseous  ammonia.  Charcoal  forms  an  excellent  poultice  for  malignant 
wounds  and  sores.  In  cases  of  what  is  called  proud  flesh  it  is  invaluable. 
It  gives  no  disagreeable  odor,  corrodes  no  metal,  hurts  no  texture,  injures 
no  color,  is  a simple  and  safe  sweetener  and  disinfectant.  A teaspoonful  of 
charcoal,  in  a glass  of  water,  often  relieves  a sick  headache.  It  absorbs  the 
gases  and  relieves  the  distended  stomach  pressing  against  the  nerves,  which 
extend  from  the  stomach  to  the  head.  It  often  relieves  constipation,  pain  or 
heart  disease. 

Sun-printing  on  Fruit. — Monograms,  initial  letters,  or  other  designs,  can 
be  printed  on  such  fruit  as  apples,  pears  or  peaches  by  the  action  of  the 
sun,  with  very  pretty  effect  of  either  a light  or  dark  color.  To  do  this, 
draw  the  monogram,  letter  or  design  on  a piece  of  writing  paper,  and  paste 
it  with  mucilage  or  glue  upon  the  side  of  the  fruit  exposed  to  the  sun,  just 
before  the  fruit  begins  to  color,  and  when  the  fruit  is  ripe,  and  the  paper  re- 
moved, the  design  will  appear  in  a lighter  or  different  color  to  the  rest  of  the 
fruit;  as,  for  instance.  If  the  experiment  is  tried  on  a yellow-fleshed  peach 
with  a red  cheek,  the  design  will  appear  in  gold  surmounted  with  red.  If 
the  opposite  effect  is  intended,  take  a small  oval  or  circular  piece  of  paper, 
and  cut  out  or  pierce  the  letter  or  design  in  it,  and  paste  on  the  fruit,  which 
when  ripe,  will  have  the  design  in  high  color  on  a yellow  or  on  a light  green 
ground  of  the  shape  of  the  paper,  and  this  again  will  be  surrounded  by  the 
brighter  color  of  the  fruit. 

Granular  Butter. — These  complete  directions  for  making  butter  were 
given  by  one  who  makes  gilt-edge  butter.  The  milk  is  set  in  a Cooley 
Creamer  for  twenty-four  hours.  The  cream  is  churned  every  other  day  and 
is  kept  sweet  till  the  night  before  churning,  when  it  is  set  in  a tub  and  boil- 
ing water  poured  around  the  can ; it  is  stirred  rapidly  and  constantly  until  it 
reaches  80  degrees,  then  set  in  a room  where  in  cold  weather  it  will  not  fall 
below  62  degrees.  The  cream  is  churned  at  from  60  to  62  degrees  in  sum- 
mer, and  62  to  64  in  winter,  according  to  the  temperature  of  the  weather,  in 
a Batcheller  churn  ; churning  is  stopped  when  the  butter  is  in  granules  size 
of  mustard  seed.  It  stands  about  five  minutes  for  the  butter  to  rise  to  the 
top,  then  the  buttermilk  is  drawn  off  and  two  pails  of  water  at  about  43  de- 
grees is  poured  over  butter,  cover  is  screwed  on  and  churn*  revolved  twice, 
when  water  is  drawn  off  and  two  more  pails  full  poured  over  it,  and  churn 
again  revolved  twice,  and  so  continued  until  the  water  runs  off  perfectly 
clear.  It  is  then  let  stand  fh^e  or  ten  minutes  to  drain,  when  it  is  salted 
with  Higgins  salt,  oz.  to  the  pound.  A little  salt  is  sifted  over  the  top  of 
butter,  then  the  churn  is  tipped  forward  till  the  salted  portion  is  covered  by 
fresh  granules,  when  a little  more  salt  is  sifted  over  the  top  of  it,  then  the 
churn  is  tipped  a little  more  at  a time,  and  salt  sifted  over  till  the  bottom  of 
the  churn  is  visible ; then  it  is  tipped  backward  and  salt  sifted  over  the 
granules  as  before.  The  cover  is  then  screwed  on  and  the  churn  revolved 
very  slowly  for  20  or  30  times  ; it  is  then  let  stand  for  one  hour  that  salt  may 
be  completely  dissolved.  The  churn  is  then  tipped  backward  and  forward, 
not  revolved,  till  the  butter  is  in  a roll,  when  it  is  pressed  into  a 60  lb.  ash 
tub.  When  the  tub  is  brim  full,  a butter  cloth  is  spread  smoothly  over  it 
and  a thin  layer  of  salt  sifted  over  it  and  the  cover  fastened  down  with  sta- 
ples, and  sent  to  market  as  soon  as  possible. 


1256 


MISCELLANEOUS. 


Weather  Strips. — It  is  often  desirable 
to  close  the  crevices  of  doors  and  windows 
with  weather  strips.  There  is  now  made, 
and  kept  for  sale  at  all  rubber  stores,  a 
strip  wdiich  is  well  represented  in  the 
engraving,  half  an  inch  wide,  ready  for 
tacking  to  the  edges  of  door  or  sash.  It 
is  made  of  a narrow  rubber  sheet,  curved 
over  to  make  a cushion,  and  sewed  to  a 
thin  strip  of  tin.  Through  the  tin  strip 
tacks  are  driven  two  or  three  inches  apart, 
fastening  the  strip  to  the  edge  of  a door 
or  sash,  and  the  elastic  cushion  effectually  shuts  out  the  air,  while  not  inter- 
fering with  the  use  of  either  door  or  window.  It  is  sold  in  lengths  of  twenty- 
five  to  fifty  feet,  coiled  as  shown  in  right  hand  cut,  and  is  sent  by  mail  post- 
paid anywhere  at  about  five  and  a half  cents  a foot.  Plenty  of  fresh  air  is 
necessary  to  health,  but  it  is  well  to  be  able  to  control  the  currents  and  take 
them  when  and  where  they  are  wanted. 

To  Soften  Sponges. — A sponge  when  first  purchased  is  frequently  hard, 
stiff  and  gritty.  To  soften  it  and  dislodge  the  particles  of  searsand  from  its 
crevices,  having  first  soakqd  and  squeezed  it  through  several  cold  waters,  put 
the  sponge  into  a clean  tin  sauce-pan,  set  it  over  the  fire,  and  boil  it  a quar- 
ter of  an  hour.  Then  take  it  out  into  a bowl  of  cold  w^ater,  and  squeeze  it 
well.  Wash  out  the  sauce-pan,  and  return  the  sponge  to  it,  filling  up  with 
clean,  cold  water,  and  boil  it  another  quarter  of  an  hour.  Repeat  the  pro- 
cess, giving  it  three  boils  in  fresh  water,  or  more  than  three  if  you  find  it 
still  gritty.  Take  care  not  to  let  it  boil  too  long,  or  it  will  become  tender 
and  drop  to  pieces. 

Extras  Thrown  in. — To  purify  a room  of  unpleasant  odors,  burn  vinegar, 
resin,  or  sugar ; to  make  chicken  gravy  richer,  add  eggs  found  in  chicken,  or, 
if  none,  yolk  of  an  egg ; soak  garden  seeds  in  hot  water  a few^  seconds  before 
planting ; to  prevent  cholera  in  chickens,  put  assafoetida  in  water  they  drink, 
and  let  them  pick  at  coal  ashes  ; in  using  hard  water  for  dish-water,  add  a 
little  milk  ; to  clean  paint,  add  to  two  quarts  hot  w^ater,  two  table-spoons  tur- 
pentine and  one  of  skimmed  milk,  and  only  soap  enough  to  make  suds,  and 
it  will  clean  and  give  luster ; iron  rust  on  marble  can  generally  be  removed 
with  lemon-juice  ; a thin  coat  of  varnish  applied  to  straw'-matting  makes  it 
more  durable  and  adds  to  its  beauty. 

The  Cistern. — An  abundant  supply  of  good  water  is  a necessity  for  every 
house,  and  capacious  cisterns  are  a necessity.  The  essential  requisites  are 
good  hydraulic  lime  and  clean  pure  sand.  The  hydraulic  cement  becomes 
in  a few  months  as  hard  as  sandstone,  but  the  sand  must  never  exceed  two 
parts  to  one  of  lime.  The  cheapest  form  of  cistern  is  simply  a hole  dug  in 
the  ground  with  sides  sloping  like  those  of  a narrow  bottomed  tub.  The 
water  lime  mortar  is  applied  directly  to  these  sides,  the  shape  of  the  sides 
sustaining  the  mortar  until  it  hardens.  The  breadth  of  such  a cistern,  if 
large,  makes  it  difficult  to  cover,  but  this  may  be  done  with  a plank  sup- 
ported by  strong  scantling,  over  which  should  be  placed  earth  to  the  depth 
of  the  lowest  frost.  There  must  be  a hole  through  the  covering,  left  for 
cleaning,  which  should  be  curbed,  and  may  admit  the  pump  if  the  locality 
is  right,  or  a pipe  may  go  from  cistern  into  cellar  below  the  frost. line,  and 
thence  to  the  kitchen.  The  mortar  on  the  walls  should  never  be  less  than 
an  inch  thick,  and  they  should  have  at  least  two  coats,  and  three  are  better. 
As  the  mortar  begins  to  dt'y  in  a very  short  time  after  mixing,  it  is  best  to 
mix  the  lime  and  sand  dry,  and  apply  water  in  small  quantities  at  a time  as 


MISCELLANEOUS. 


1257 


needed.  A more  capacious  cistern  may  be  made  at  a greater  expense  by 
digging  a hole  with  perpendicular  walls,  and  laying  walls  of  brick  in 
form  of  the  upper  half  of  a barrel,  on  which  to  lay  the  mortar.  This  form 
has  a smaller  top,  and  is  much  more  easily  covered  than  the  other.  The 
wall  should  be  laid  as  well  as  plastered  with  water-lime.  A filtering  at- 
tachment is  made  by  building  a small  receiving  cistern  beside  the  larger 
one,  with  filtering  apparatus  between  them^  or  a strong  wall  may  be  built 
through  the  middle  of  the  cistern,  receiving  the  water  in  one  division  and 
filtering  it  through  into  the  other.  To  ascertain  contents  of  cistern,  the  fol- 
lowing table  may  be  used ; it  gives  the  contents  of  a cistern  for  each  foot  in 
depth.  If  the  diameter  at  top  and  bottom  differ,  strike  the  average  and  use 
that  as  the  basis  of  the  estimate  : 


5 feet  diameter  4.66  barrels. 

6 “ . “ 6.71 

7 “ “ 9.13 


8 feet  diameter  11.93  barrels, 

9 “ “ 15.10 

10  “ “ 18.65 


Lime-Water  audits  Uses. — Place  a piece  of  unslaked  lime  (size  is  imma- 
terial, as  the  water  will  take  up  only  a certain  quantity)  in  a perfectly  clean 
bottle,  and  fill  with  cold  water ; keep  corked  in  a cellar  or  cool,  dark  place ; 
it  is  ready  for  use  in  a few  minutes,  and  the  clear  lime-water  may  be  used 
whenever  it  is  needed.  When  the  water  is  poured  off,  add  more  ; this  nfay 
be  done  three  or  four  times,  after  which  some  new  lime  must  be  used  as  at 
first.  A tea-spoon  in  a cup  of  milk  is  a remedy  for  children’s  summer  oom_- 
plaint ; also  for  acidity  of  the  stomach ; when  added  to  milk  it  has  no  un" 
pleasant  taste.  When  put  into  milk  that  wmuld  otherwise  curdle  whe^ 
heated,  it  prevents  its  curdling,  so  that  it  can  then  be  used  for  puddings  an^ 
pies.  Admail  quantity  of  it  will  prevent  the  “turning”  of  cream  and  milk. 
It  also  sweetens  aud  purifies  bottles  which  have  contained  milk.  Some  add 
a cupful  to  a sponge  of  bread  to  prevent  it  from  souring. 

The  Lightning  Rod. — When  properly  put  up,  the  lightning  rod  is  a per- 
fect protection  ; but,  when  not  scientifically  constructed,  is  only  a source  of 
danger.  The  following  are  essentials : 1.  It  must  extend  several  feet  into 

the  ground  so  as  always  to  he  in  contact  with  moist  earth,  or  into  a never-failing 
supply  of  water ; 2,  it  must  be  sharp  at  the  top,  and,  if  there  are  several 
points,  all  the  better ; 3.  It  must  be  half  as  high  above  the  top  of  the  build- 
ing as  the  distance  horizontally  to  the  most  remote  part  of  the  roof  of  the 
building ; 4.  It  should  be  large  enough  to  convey  off  every  discharge  with- 
out being  melted  or  broken;  5.  The  best  material  is  iron  with  copper 
below'  the  surface  of  the  ground,  as  iron  rusts  away  rapidly  in  the  moist 
earth.  Copper  is  the  best  conductor,  but  costs  more,  and  is  not  as  stiff  to 
withstand  the  wind.  One-half  to  five-eighths  of  an  inch  in  diameter  is  large 
enough.  Bright  points  are  not  essential,  and  glass  insulator  are  of  no  use 
W'hatever,  as  when  wet  they  are  good  conductors,  and,  and  even  if  they  were 
not,  a small  charge  even  would  leap  across  the  short  distance  from  the  rod 
to  the  iron  staple.  The  best  way  to  fasten  the  joints,  is  to  weld  them, 
wdiich  any  blacksmith  can  do,  passing  the  rod  through  opposite  doors  of  his 
shop,  afterw^ards  dragging  it  home.  If  the  building  is  so  high  that  it  cannot 
be  readily  put  up  in  one  piece,  the  best  joint  is  made  by  screwing  the  two 
ends  firmly  into  one  nut.  The  points  are  easily  made  by  welding  several 
smaller  w’ires  to  the  large  one,  and  filing  them  sharp.  A rod  will  protect  a 
space  the  distance  of  which  is  four  times  the  height  of  the  rod.  The  cheap- 
est and  best  support  is  w^ood.  The  only  point  to  be  considered  is  to  secure 
the  rod  firmly.  The  round  rods  are  the  best.  If  there  are  iron  water-pipes 
or  steam-pipes  in  the  building,  they  should  all  be  connected  with  the  light- 
ning rod,  or  directly  with  the  moist  earth,  eight  or  ten  feet  below  the  sur- 
face. 

Canary  Birds. — Do  not  keep  in  a room  that  is  being  painted  or  has  odor 
of  new  paint.  Do  not  hang  over  a stove  or  grate  which  contains  fire.  Do 


1258 


MISCELLANEOUS. 


not  set  the  cage  in  a window,  and  shut  it  down  upon  it ; the  draft  is  in- 
jurious. Do  not  wash  cage  bottom,  but  scrape  clean  with  a knife,  and  then 
put  on  some  fresh  gravel ; the  moisture  breeds  red  mites,  and  is  injurious  to 
the  bird.  Do  not  keep  the  birds  you  intend  to  breed  in  the  spring  together 
during  the  winter.  Do  not  keep  single  birds  in  a room  where  others  are 
breeding,  or  males  and  females  in  mating  season  in  the  same  room  in  sei3a- 
rate  cages,  as  it  is  likely  to  cause  mating  fever.  Feed  canary  on  rape  seed, 
but  no  hemp.  For  diarrhoea  put  a rusty  piece  of  iron  in  dish  water,  changing 
water  not  oftener  than  twice  a week,  and  bread  boiled  in  milk.  As  for  asthma 
boil  well  in  this  case,  so  that  v hen  cold  it  will  cut  like  chjeese  ; give  freely 
with  plenty  of  vegetables.  Moulting  is  not  a disease,  yet  during  this  sea- 
son all  birds  are  more  or  less  sick  and  some  suffer  severely . They  require 
plenty  of  nourishing  food.  Worms,  insects,  and  fruits  to  those  which  eat 
them;  and  to  those  which  live  upon  dry  seeds,  bread  dipped  in  milk,  fruit 
and  vegetables.  The  German  metallic-enameled  cages  are  the  be^z^ — white 
and  green  (a combination  of)  or  a light  chocolate  are  the  best  colors;  they 
are  not  painted  as  are  the  cages  made  here  in  America,  but  the  color  is 
burnt  into  the  wires.  Avoid  wooden  or  brass  cages,  also  conical  “/ountains” 
for  food  and  drink  ; for  the  lattter,  square  or  round  cups  of  chin  a or  glass 
are  the  best.  The  perches  should  be  plain,  round,  unvarnished  sticks,  and 
no  two  of  the  same  size.  Clean  the  cage  thoroughly  every  morning.  Pre- 
pare fresh,  clean  bathing  and  drinking  water,  ard  if  sand  is  used  on  the 
bottom  of  cage,  clean  it  (the  sand)  by  boiling  in  water.  Scrape  th  e perches 
well,  and  twice  a week  plunge  them  in  boiling  water  to  kill  any  tred  mites 
that  may  have  lodged  there.  Give  plenty  of  seed,  also  green  par  s of  many 
plants,  such  as  poppy,  rape,  hemp,  etc. ; also  the  seeds  of  weeds  like  the 
chickweed,  plantain,  etc.,  and  the  fresh  tender  leaves  of  beets,  cabbage  and 
lettuce.  Avoid  fruits  containing  a large  percentage  of  acid,  but  give  occa- 
sionally a hard-boiled  egg.  Never  give  them  sugar,  but  all  the  red  pepper 
they  will  eat.  It  is  the  best  thing  for  them.  And  if  your  bird  feels  hoarse 
at  any  time,  put  a piece  of  fat  salt  pork  in  the  cage  and  see  how  the  little 
fellow  will  enjoy  it.  Give  him  flax-seed  once  in  a while,  and  if  he  appears 
dumpy  occasionally  give  him  a diet  of  bread  and  water,  with  red  pepper 
sprinkled  in.  For  lice,  cleanliness  is  the  best  preventive,  but  not  always 
sure.  For  cure  you  have  simply  to  cover  your  cage  at  night  with  a white 
cloth,  rise  early  in  the  morning,  remove  the  cloth  and  dip  in  scalding  hot 
water,  or  dust  them  at  night  w^ith  insect  powMer. 

Hydrophobia  and  its  Symto7ns. — The  following  valuable  hints  regarding 
the  symtoms  of  that  terrible  disease,  hydrophobia,  are  from  a lecture  de- 
livered in  St.  Paul,  by  the  Kev.  E.  C.  Mitchell,  of  that  city : 

“The  period  of  actual  danger  begins  before  it  is  generally  suspected. 
Hydrophopia  is  contagious,  but  it  is  communicated  by  actual  contact  only. 
The  saliva  of  the  rabid  animal  must  enter  the  absorbents  of  the  body  of  the 
victim.  Any  living  being  which  has  the  hydrophobia  can  communicate  it  to 
others.  Carniverous  animals  are  most  Hat  le  to  hydrophobia.  Herbivorous 
amimals,  are  less  dangerous,  because  they  do  not  generally  attack  with  their 
teeth.  We  will  consider  the  disease  as  it  develops  in  the  dog.  The  dog  does 
not  at  once  become  furious.  The  disease  is  gradual.^  At  first  the  dog  feels 
uneasy  and  likes  to  be  petted.  It  is  an  important  point  that,  from  the  very 
beginning  of  the  disease,  the  saliva  of  the  animal  is  a deadly  poison.  His 
caresses  are  as  dangerous  as  his  bite.  If  the  saliva  of  the  animal  comes  in 
contact  with  any  broken,  place  on  the  skin,  death  may  result  to  the  victim. 
Symptoms  of  hydrophobia : 1.  In  the  outward  appearance  : the  dog  becomes 

sad,  dull  and  retired.  He  crawls  into  a corner,  or  hides.  He  is  uneasy. 
He  arouses  with  a start,  changes  position,  and  lies  down,  but  cannot  rest. 
He  is  agitated,  yet  sad.  There  is  a marked  change  Hn  his  disposition.  He 
is  already  dangerous,  but  he  is  not  disposed  to  bite.  His  uneasiness  in- 


MISCELLANEOUS. 


1259 


creases.  He  scratches  his  bed,  turns  it  over,  smells  about  the  room,  under 
the  doors,  etc.,  as  though  looking  for  something.  He  is  a victim  of  hallucin- 
ation . He  snaps  at  imaginary  things  in  the  air.  As  he  grows  worse,  he  runs 
furiously  against  a wall,  or  fence,  and  howls.  He  is  not  yet  quarrelsome  to- 
ward the  family.  A familiar  voice  will  often  restore  him  to  his  senses.  He 
is  still  affectionate.  The  more  he  suffers,  the  more  he  seeks  relief  in  his 
master’s  caresses.  The  family,  thinking  the  poor  dog  is  sick,  caress  him. 
But  this  saliva  is  now  fatal  to  human  life  if  it  enters  the  absorbents.  Only 
in  the  last  stages  of  the  disease  does  the  dog  become  furious  and  aggressive. 

2.  Symtoms  affecting  the  digestive  organs  ; Mad  dogs  do  not  always  avoid 
wa^er  ; many  will  drink  water  eagerly.  In  late  stages  of  the  disease  a con- 
traction of  the  throat  renders  them  unable  to  drink.  Even  then  they  will 
often  try  to  drink.  Some  rabid  dogs  lose  their  appetite,  but  others  eat  as 
usual  or  even  more  than  usual.  Many  rabid  dogs  will  tear  and  swallow 
every  thing  they  can  get  into  their  mouths.  We  ought  to  suspect  a dog  that 
persistently  bites  at  and  swallows  things  unfit  for  food ; except  in  case  of 
pups,  which  playfully  bite  every  thing.  It  is  supposed  that  mad  dogs  always 
‘froth  at  the  mouth.’  This  is  a mistake.  They  ‘froth’  during  the  paroxysm 
only.  But  they  are  equally  dangerous  at  other  times.  Sometimes  the 
lower  jaw  is  paralyzed  and  hangs  open ; the  mouth  becomes  dry,  dark  red, 
and  covered  with  brown  spots  ; the  eyes  are  dull  and  gloomy ; the  dog  can 
not  bite,  but  his  saliva  may  fall  upon  persons.  The  master  may  think  the 
dog  has  a bone  in  his  throat  and  may  try  to  extricate  it.  But  this  is  highly 
dangerous.  The  dog  often  vomits  blood  from  wounds  in  the  stomach,  made 
by  swallowing  various  sharp  articles.  The  master  may  incautiously  try  to 
help  the  dog,  and  may  be  bitten,  or  may  come  in  contact  with  the  dog’s 
saliva,  which  may  enter  some  cut  or  scratch  on  the  hand.  3.  Symtoms  in 
voice  : The  bark  of  a mad  dog  is  peculiar.  The  voice  is  generally  weaker 
than  usual,  and  hoarse  and  sad.  The  dog  does  not  fully  close  his  jaws  after 
each  bark.  In ‘dumb  madness,’ the  dog  loses  his  voice.  4.  Symptoms  as  to 
nervous  sensibility ; A mad-dog  is  much  less  sensitive  to  pain,  often  even  in- 
different to  severe -burning  or  cutting.  We  ought  to  suspect  every  dog  that 
is  unnaturally  insensible  to  pain,  especially  if  he  bites  himself  severely.  A 
mad-dog,  however  quiet,  will  suddenly  grow  fierce  when  he  sees  another 
dog.  The  rabid  animal  is  recklessly  brave.  Chain  a suspected  dog,  and  show 
him  another  dog ; if  he  becomes  furious,  kill  him.  Mad-dogs  often  run  away 
from  home,  at  a late  stage  of  the  disease,  and  go  to  some  lonely  place,  to  die. 
But  if  chased  they  will  return  home.  Then  there  is  great  danger  that  the 
unsuspecting  family  will,  from  sympathy,  receive  their  lost  dog  with  open 
arms,  to  learn,  too  late,  that  he  is  rabid.  Suspect  every  such  dog,  and 
close  the  doors  against  him  ; and,  if  possible,  shoot  him.  It  is  important  to 
discover  hydrophobia  during  its  early  stages,  before  it  is  too  late.  Watch 
the  habits  of  animals,  especially  dogs,  and  chain  them  securely  when  show- 
ing unusual  symptoms. 

“Symptoms  of  confirmed  rabies,  or  madness : The  eyes  have  a sad,  dull,  yet 
fierce  expression.  Periods  of  excitement  and  of  stupor  alternate.  Par- 
oxysms generally  follow  some  exciting  cause.  Every  healthy  dog  has  an  in- 
stinctive dread  of  a rabid  dog.  Powerful  and  fierce  dogs  will  flee  from  very 
small  rabid  dogs  ; they  seem  to  instinctively  know  their  danger.  This  is  a 
good  test  of  a dog’s  condition.  Bring  other  dogs  into  his  presence,  and  if 
they  all  avoid  him  his  case  is  very  suspicious.  After  the  disease  has  become 
confirmed,  the  dog  runs  along  at  first,  in  a natural  gait,  attacking  everything 
he  meets,  especially  dogs.  But  he  becomes  exhausted,  and  runs  slowly,  and 
•tagged.  His  head  and  tail  hang  down.  This  is  the  generally  recognized 
condition  of  mad-dogs,  but  it  is  only  the  last  stage.  The  dog  falls,  and  appa- 
rently sleeps.  But  after  rest,  is  aroused,  he  will  run  again,  and  will  attack. 
But  if  not  disturbed  he  will  die  from  paralysis  and  asphyxia. 


1260 


MISCELLANEOUS. 


“The  cat  sometimes  has  hydrophobia;  and  then  she  is  a perfect  fury.. 
Her  feline  nature  shows  itself : She  is  so  quick  she  is  very  dangerous.  Her 
eyes  are  wild ; her  hair  stands  up,  and  her  jaws  are  open.  In  later  stages  she 
will  crawl  under  something  and  die.  Whenever  a cat  grows  restless,  with- 
out apparent  cause,  or  is  sad  and  stupid,  biting  at  her  bed,  and  at  other 
things,  it  is  time  to  put  her  out  of  the  way. 

“Animals  do  not  go  mad  any  more  in  Summer  than  in  Winter.  There 
are  as  many  mad  animals  in  cold  countries  as  in  warm  countries.  Muzzling 
dogs  in  Summer  is  unnecessary  ; in  fact  it  is  a damage  to  them,  by  prevent- 
ing free  perspiration  through  the  tongue. 

“In  human  beings  less  than  half  of  those  who  are  bitten  by  mad-dogs 
ever  have  hydrophobia.  But  very  few,  if  any,  in  whom  the  disease  is  actu- 
ally developed  ever  recover.  In  most  cases  the  disease  is  manifested  within 
two  months  after  the  bite,  and  nearly  all  the  cases  have  come  within  three 
months,  but  there  are  a few  cases  reeorded  which  developed  much  longer 
after  the  bite.  The  disease,  when  developed,  generally  lasts  from  one  to 
four  days.  Bites  on  the  unprotected  parts  of  the  body  are  naturally  more 
dangerous,  as  on  the  covered  parts,  the  clothing  may  absorb  the  saliva  of  the 
rabid  animal.” 

Home-Made  Folding  Bath-Tub. — This  bath-tub  is  inexpensive,  convenient, 
and  comfortable  for  a little  bather.  The  frame  is  made  something  like  a cot- 
feed.  The  legs,  one  inch  and  a half  square  by  thirty  inches  long,  are  crossed 

and  pivoted  in  the  middle  on  a 
center  bar.  The  side-bars,  one 
inch  by  two  inches,  and  thirty- 
six  inches  long,  are  securely  fast- 
ened to  the  top  of  the  legs. 
Smaller  bars  join  the  legs  near 
the  bottom  to  stiffen  the  frame. 
A piece  of  heavy  rubber  cloth, 
one  yard  and  a quarter  long  and 
thirty  inches  wide,  has  an  inch- 
wide hem  on  each  end  for  a cas- 
ing, and  is  drawn  up  to  eighteen 
or  nineteen  inches, with  heavy 
braid.  This  makes  the  ends  of 
the  tub.  Along  the  side-bars  of 
acks,  the  sides  of  the  cloth,  with 
A small  plait  in  the  cloth  at  each 
corner,  about  an  inch  from  the  end,  gives  a fuller  shape  to  hold  the  water. 
The  tub,  when  not  in  use,  can  be  folded  and  set  away  out  of  sight.  A pil- 
low put  in  the  tub  makes  a comfortable  and  portable  crib.  From  Babyhood. 

A Handy  Soap-boiler. — For  such  farmers  wives  as  do  not  have  an  out 
house  containing  a portable  boiler  or  a kettle  set  in  brick  or  stone,  the  contri- 
vance illustrated  here  is  a good 
one.  The  hole  in  the  rail  is  just 
wide  enough  to  admit  the  piece 
©n  the  top  of  post,  but  is  three 
©r  four  inches  long,  so  that  when 
the  kettle  is  swung  off  the  fire 
there  will  be  play  enough  to 
lower  the  kettle  to  the  ground, 
without  wrenching  the  post.  The 
Prairie  Farmer  first  suggested 
this  plan. 


MISCELLANEOUS. 


1261 


Hanging  Shelves. — The  side  pieces  oi  this  hanging  cupboard  are  fastened 

to  the  joints  of  the  cellar.  The  rest 
of  the  plan  is  fully  explained  by  the 
cut.  It  is  very  convenient  for  many 
uses  and  is  out  of  the  way  of  cats, 
rats  and  mice,  and  if  put  up  where 
passers  are  not  likely  to  strike  their 
heads  against  it,  is  a desirable  addi- 
tion to  the  cellar  equipment.  It  may 
be  made  any  size.  The  American 
Agrieulturist  has  credit  for  its  sug- 
gestion , 

Protection  for  the  Lav. — The  lap- 
pad  described  below  is  very  little 
trouble,  and  will  serve  to  protect  one’s  ^ress  from  the  soiling  which  is  inev- 
itable when  holding  Baby  in  the  lap  — 

very  long,  especially  while  traveling. 

Take  two  pieces  of  muslin  or  Mar- 
seilles,  each  one-half  yard  square ; 
put  together  with  a layer  of  cotton-'^ 
wadding  between.  Turn  in  the  edges 
all  around  and  baste  between  the 
pieces  an  edging  of  embroidery ; stitch  (I 
twice  around  on  the  machine.  Quilt 
the  pad  in  diamonds,  or  any  fancy 
pattern.  From  Babyhood. 

Castle  Salve. — Boil  ten  cents  worth 
of  tobacco  and  pint  of  cider  together  (f 
for  fifteen  minutes  in  anew  tin  vessel . 
strain,  and  add  to  liquid  fourth  pound  \'- 
each  butter,  lard,  beeswax  and  resin 
and  wine  glass  whiskey.  Boil  slowly 
till  liquid  is  all  evaporated.  Put  away  in  tin  box  and  use  as  a salve  for  all 
burns.  It  is  a perfect  cure  for  the  most  severe  cases  and  gives  quick  relief. 
Has  been  tried  often  in  very  severe  cases.  Apply  like  any  salve.  Whiting 
mixed  with  water  and  applied  to  a burn  is  also  very  efficacous. 

Curing  Meats. — Always  buy  granulated  salt  peter  for  use  in  curing  meats. 
It  costs  no  more,  and  is  dissolved  more  easily.  After  hams,  shoulders,  etc. 
are  smoked,  pack  in  barrels  of  common  salt.  This  is  clean  and  a perfect  pro- 
tection against  insects  and  vermin,  and  does  not  increase  the  saltness  of  the 
meat  as  might  be  supposed.  The  salt  may  be  used  again  and  again  for  this 
purpose,  or  for  making  brine  for  meat. 


INDEX  TO  COOKERY  RECIPES, 


1263 


INDEX  TO  COOKERY  RECIRES. 


It  will  help  those  who  consult  this  hook  to  remember  that  the  recipes  of 
each  department  in  Cookery,  as  well  as  the  departments  themselves,  are  ar- 
ranged in  the  simple  order  of  the  alphabet,  so  far  as  has  been  possible,  and 
that  the  “running  head”at  the  top  of  each  page  shows,  in  a general  way,  the 
subject  treated.  The  “Table  of  Contents”  (page  4)  gives  the  pages  of  the 
various  departments.  The  following  is  a full  alphabetical  index  of  the  recipes 
and  subjects  treated.  All  recipes  for  Cookery  appear  in  the  main  index; 
those  relating  to  housekeeping  and  household  matters  generally  will  be  found 
under  the  Supplementary  Index  . 


Page. 

J^CID. 

Strawberry 215 

Strawberry,  royal... 215 
Almonds. 

Candied 341 

Flowers 638 

Puffs 740 

Salted 339 

Scalloped 740 

Shelled 131 

SouiSe  740 

To  blanch 64-131 

To  buy 1031 

To  powder 131 

To  select 131 

Variety  of 309 

Ambrosia 337 

Apples 309-312. 

And  grapes 321 

And  quinces 321 

Baked 312 


Baked,  with  syrup  .,313 

Blushed 313 

Cakes 316- 

Candied 341 

Canned 154 

Chocolate 317 

Coddled... 314 

Compote 317 

Cream. 318 

Creamed 314 

Dried 343 

Dumplings 738 


. Page. 
Dumplings,  baked ..  738 


Fried .314 

Fried  whole 314 

Fried  with  pork 314 

Fool 318 

Fortress  318 

Frosted 315 

Frozen 335 

Iced 315 

Jellied 313-315 

Marbled 315 

Meringue 320 

Meringued 315 

Paste 347 

Porridge 319 

Rice 742 

Sago  319 

Snow 319 

Spiced  313 

Steamed 316 

Stewed 316 

Stuffed 313 

Tapioca 320 

Toast  320 

Transparency 316 

Trifle 320 

Valuable  use  of 311 

When  in  season 917 

Apple  Sauce .319-516 

Baked 319-1030 

Cider 319 

Dried 343 

Black 344 


Page. 

Apricots 309 

Frozen 335 

Paste 347 

Artichokes 854 

Fried 854 

When  in  season 917 

Artistic  Piping 422 

Description  of..  .424,  425 

Asparagus 854 

And  eggs 855 

A nbushed 855 

Fried 855 

Pudding 855 

Rolls 855 

Salad 855 

Sauce  855 

Toast 855 

When  in  season 917 

Bachelor’s  Buttons.  ..96 

Baking  Powder 36 

Proportion  of 35-64 

Bacon, 

Boiled 521 

Breakfast 521 

Broiled 521 

Fried 521 

Pudding 522 

Roly  Poly 522 

Balls. 

Butter 744 

Force  Meat 837-849 

German 849 

Italian 196 


1264 


INDEX  TO  COOKERY  RECIPES. 


Page. 

Pop-corn 141 

Bananas 307,  321 

And  cream 322 

Baked 322 

Fried 322 

Pie 614 

And  apple  pie 614 

Bannocks 36 

Basket. 

Macaroon 110 

Orange Ill 

Bass. 

Boiled 171 

When  in  season 917 

Bavarian  Cream. 

Almond 115 

Blackberry 116 

Chocolate 115 

Colfee 116 

Lemon 115 

Orange 115 

Peach 116 

Pear 116 

Pine-apple 116 

Pistachio 115 

Quantity  of — 110 

Raspberry 116 

Strawberry 116 

Vanilla 115 

Beans. 

Boston  Baked 856 

Butter 856 

Canned 158 

Castle 856 

French  Style 856 

In  brine 877 

Lima,  dry 856 

Patties 871 

Shelled  856 

String  856 

String,  dried 878,  880 

When  in  season 917 

Bed  of  Vegetables.  ..468 


A la  mode 472 

Boiled 463 

Boiled  corned 482 

Bouilli 464 

Braised 464 

Braised,  brisket  of..  464 

Braised,  fillet  of 465 

Braised,  roll  of 465 

Cannelon 469 

Collared 488 

Collops 471 

Curried  465 

Fillet  of 473 

Fricandeau  of 475 

Frizzled  with  eggs  . . 484 

In  jelly 475 

Larded,  fillet  of 474 

Loaf 469,532 

Molded 459 

Olives 532 

Palates 492 

Potted 465 

Pot-roast  of 462,  476 

Pounded 465 

Pressed  465 

Ragout  of 476 

Roast 462,  466,  468 

Roast,  rump 467 

Roast,  German  467 

Roast,  French 467 


Page. 

Roast,  with  pudding  468 

Rolled 468 

Stew 470 

Stewed  with  tomat’s  471 
Stuffed  brisket  of  ..  ..484 

Stuffed  spiced 1039 

When  in  season 917 

Yankee  Dried 484 

Beefsteak. 

Broiled 476 

Fried • 477 

Hamburg 479 

Hidden 479 

Italian 509 

Marinade  for 477 

Oyster 480 

Pie 481 

Pudding 481 

Smothered  in  onions  478 

Stuffed  480 

To  serve 477,  478 

With  oysters..  ..  478. 

Beets. 

Baked 857 

Greens 857 

Marbled 857 

Pickled 857 

Pudding 857 

Berries. 

Candied 342 

Canned  151 

Frosted 334 

Bills  of  Fare. 

Christmas  Dinner ..  .906 

For  Spring.  886-893 

For  Summer 893-899 

For  Fall 899-905 

For  Winter..  882-886 

905,906 

Fruits  in 882 

How  to  use 881 

New  Year’s  Dinner  .882 
New  Year’s  lunch  for 

callers 907 

Refreshments  for 

twenty 907 

Refreshments  for 

one  hundred 907 

Refreshments  for 
one  hundred  and 

seventy-five 907 

Thanksgiving  Din- 
ner  904 

Birds. 

Fire  for 351 

How  to  pluck 350 

Time  to  roast 351 

To  broil 360 

To  fry  352 

To  lard 469 

To  roast 361 

Wild  fiavor  of. 352 

Biscuit  36 

Baking  Powder 36 

Buttermilk 37 

Cream 37 

Fairy 87 

Hard  tea 37 

High 37 

Maple 87 

Potato 88 

Rye 38 

Soda 36,  S8 

Spoon 38 


Page, 

Stale 35 

Tea 38 

To  bake 34 

To  glaze 34 

To  make ..34 

Unleavened 38 

Blanc-Mange Ill 

Chocolate 112 

Farina 113 

Fruit 751 

Green ....112 

Pink 112 

Plain 112 

Raspberry 113 

Rice 113 

Sago.  113 

Vanilla 113 

Yellow 112 

B lac  KBERRIES 322 

Canned 152 

Pried 344,  345 

Spiced  ...  667 

When  in  season 917 

Bloater,  potted 271 

Blue  Fish,  season  for  917 
Blueberries. 

Frosted 333 

Frozen 334 

Bouillon. 

Plain .830 

Philadelphia 830 

True 830 

Brains. 

And  tongue 540 

Calfs 539 

Fritters 539 

Scrambled 539 

Stewed 539 

To  single  blanch . . . 1048 
To  double  blanch . . 1048 

Brant,  season  for 917 

Brawn 5I8, 1045 

Bream,  season  for 917 

Broccoli 857 

When  in  season 917 

Broma  ....  210 

Brussels  Sprouts. 857, 860 

Bread 21 

Apple 21 

And  flour 1005 

Bean 2I 

Box 17 

Cooler 29 

Coffee 39 

Crumbs,  to  dry 299 

Dduble 299 

Double-egg 299 

Easter 39 

Fire  for 17 

Flour  for 8 

For  oven 992 

Forefathers’ 31 

Borders 979 

Good,  to  make 11 

Hop  Yeast 22 

In  summer 26 

In  winter 26 

Knife  17 

Making  made  easy  ..  .26 

Measures  for 11 

Oven  for 14 

Pan  for 17 

Poor  Man's ..22 

Proof  box  for 14 


INDEX  TO  COOKERY  RECIPES, 


1265 


Page. 


Quick 27 

Raised  once 23 

Raised  twice  ......  24 

Raised  three  times.  ..25 

Ready  for  oven 13 

Rye  33 

Rye  and  Indian 32 

Rye  with  soda 32 

Salt  Rising 28 

Scotch 98 

Set  to  rise  12 

Single 299 

Sour 13 

Southern  Egg 50 

Sweet  Potato  29 

To  bake 14 

To  cool 16 

To  knead 11 

To  mix  11 

To  renew 995 

To  salt 13 

To  test ..15 

Vienna 33 

With  buttermilk 21 

With  compressed 

yeast 26 

With  potatoes 23 

With  potato  sponge  ..22 

When  hard 16 

Brown  Bread 30 

Boston 29 

Eastern 29 

Steamed 19 

Tin  form  for 29 

With  baking  powder  .30 

With  mush 30 

Buns 39 

Currant 39 

Hot  Cross 39 

Bubble  and  Squeak.. 571 
Butter. 

Apple 731 

Anchovy 1053 

Clarified 64,  460 

Drawn 179 

Egg 732 

For  decorating 980 

French 612 

Kennebec 796 

Lemon  63 

Lobster 179 

Maitre  d’hotel 557 

Orange 6.35 

Paris  796’ 

Parsley 179 

Peach 732 

Pie  plant 434 

Plum 732 

Pumpkin  732 

Quince 732 

Quince  and  apple.  ..732 

Scotch  132 

Tomato  ..  733 

Buttermilk,  Iced 215 

Cabbage. 

Boiled 858 

Creamed  858 

Delicate ..858 

Fried  858 

Heidelberg 859 

Pudding 859 

Royal 858 

Southern 859 

Spiced 859 


Page. 

Stuffed 859 

When  in  season 917 

Cacao 208 

Making 209 

Nibs 210 

Shells 210 

Cafe  au  lait . . .213 

Frothed 213 

Cake. 

Almond 69 

Angel 70 

Apple 39,  70 

Black  71 

Boston 612 

Box  16 

Breakfast 39 

Bread  71 

Bride’s 71 

Buckeye 72 

Butter  for 62 

Caramel  72 

Carolina 72 

Charlotte  Caehee 72 

Cheap 73 

Chocolate  . . .64,73 

Chocolate  marble 73 

Cincinnati  73 

Cinnamon 40 

Citron 71,  73,  82 

Cocoanut 69,  73 

Creaming 735 

Currants  for 65 

Delicate 64,  74 

Eggless 74 

Eggs  for 62 

Election  74 

Everlasting 74 

Feather 75 

Fig 75 

Fig,  choice  75 

Fig,  marbled ...  . 75 

Fruit,  excellent 76 

Fruit,  German 76 

Fruit,  jam 76 

Fruit,  loaf 75 

Fruit,  pan  for 66 

Fruit,  pepper 76 

Fruit,  pound 77 

Fruit,  Scotch 77 

Groom’ s 77 

Hard  Money 77 

Hayes 77 

Hickory  nut 69,  77,  78 

Huckleberry 78 

Lady’s 78 

Lady’s  Yellow 78 

Lemon 78 

Loaf 78 

Loaf,  French .78 

Loaf,  old  fashioned  . . 78 

Making 61 

Marble  79 

Marble,  economical.. 64 

Milk  for. 62 

Mold  for 68 

One  Egg 79 

Orange  79 

Orange  butter  for 636 

Oven  for 67 

Paddle  for 61 

Paper  cap  for 66 

Peanut 80 

Plum 79 

Poor  man’s 80 


Page. 

Pound,  Citron 80 

Pound,  pyramid 80 

Pound,  white 80 

Raisins  for.  65 

Rice 80 

Seed  71 

Snow  .., 80 

Spice * 81 

i^ponge  68,  81 

Sponge,  lemon  81 

Sponge,  pans 81 

Sponge,  Phila 82 

Sponge,  white 64,  82 

Temperance 65 

Ten-minnte 82 

Tilden  82 

Tin- wedding  82 

To  beat  eggs  for 61 

To  beat 62 

To  mix 62 

To  mix  fruit 65 

To  test 68 

Watermelon 82 

Where  to  keep 68 

White 82 

White  perfection 83 

Whipped  Cream 83 

Yeast,  German 83 

Yule  83 


Cakes,  Layer. 

Almond  85 

Almond  Cream 85 

Apple 85 

Apple,  German 85 

Banana 85 

Caramel ..87 

Chocolate 87 

Chocolate,  delicious.. 87 

Chocolate  filling 87 

Chocolate  German. ..87 
Chocolate  Eclairs  88 

Cocoanut 88,  95 

Cream  88 

Cream  cocoanut 94 

Cream,  French.  88 

Cream,  golden.  ....  89 

Cream,  peach 89 

''  Cream  rose 94 

Cream  sponge 94 

Cream,  strawberry..  .89 

Cream,  Vienna, 89 

Cream,  whipped  89 

Dominoes  89 

Eggless  jelly 90 

Fig 90 

Filling  for 84 

Hard  Times 90 

Hickory  Nut  90 

Ice  Cream ..91 

Jelly  Roll  91 

Lemon 91 

Lemon  Filling  for..  ..92 

Metropolitan 92 

Minnehaha 92 

Neapolitan 93 

Orange .93 

Orange  custard 93 

Ribbon 94 

Snow 94 

Tea 40 

Tins 84 

Thanksgiving 94 


1266 


INDEX  TO  COOKERY  RECIPES. 


Page. 

To  bake 

...  .84 

To  build 

84 

To  cut 

84 

Vanity 

95 

Velvet 

With  maple  frosting  86 

White  Fruit  . . . 

.....  95 

White  Mountain 95 

Xenophon 

Cakes. 

96 

Ginger 

104 

Ginger  drop 

105 

Ginger  tea 

105 

Hickory  Nut  . . 

117 

Jew  

98 

Candy  

130 

Hoarhound  . . . 

132 

Lemon 

132 

Maple  

..  ..  133 

Molasses • 

133 

Peanut 

133 

Rock 

130 

Syrup  for 

130 

Stick 

. ..130 

Tongs  

132 

To  form 

131 

To  pull 

Tutti  Frutti. . . . 

236 

Utensils  for 

Canned. 

..  . 129 

Apides 

;154 

Beiries 

151 

Beans 

158 

Blackberries  . . 

...  152 

Cherries 

. .152,  156 

Corn 

158 

Corn  and  tomatoes ..  158 

Crab  apples.. 

152 

Currants 

152 

Damsons 

156 

Gooseberries... 

. 152,  156 

Grapes 

.153, 155 

Grapes,  green  . 

..  .153 

Pe  ches 

. 152,  153 

Peaches,  cold. 

154 

Peaches,  steamed  . . .154 

Peaches,  with 

vin- 

egar 

153 

Pears 

. 152, 154 

Pease  

158 

Pieplant  

155 

Pieplant,  cold.. 

155 

Pine-apple 

Plums 

..  ..  155 

Pumpkin 

159 

Quinces 

155 

Strawberries. . . 

156 

Siring  beans  . . 

159 

Succotash 

159 

Tomatoes 

159 

Watermelons  .. 
6ANS. 

157 

Filler  for 

144 

Glass 

Glass,  to  prepare  — 146 
How  to  fill 146 

Opening 

150 

Putty  for 

145 

Rubber  rings  for  145, 

. .147, 150 

Self-sealers 

145 

Stoneware 

145 

Tin  

145,  149 

To  seal 

147 

Page. 

To  keep 147 

Cannelons 636 

Canning 143 

Berries 148 

Cold  process  of 148 

Different  fruits 149’ 

Fruit  for 143 

For  pies 144 

How  done 143 

Quantity  of  fruit . . . .148 
Quantity  made  in  . . 150 

Sugar  for .144 

Syrup  for 149,  150 

Table  for 151 

Utensils  for  144 

Vegetables 157 

Cantons  de  Rouen 711 

Caramels. 

Chocolate 138 

Cocoanut 138 

Carrots. 

Compote 860 

Glazed  ....  860 

Stewed 860 

Warmed  over 860 

When  ill  season 917 

Catsuits. 

Barberry  164 

Cherry 164 

Cucumber — 164 

Currant 165 

Elderberry. 165 

Fruit  for 165 

Gooseberry 165 

Grape  165 

Lemou 165 

Liver  165 

Mold  on 160 

Oyster 166 

Pepper 166 

Plum  166 

Rule  for 161 

Spatula  for 160 

Strainer  for 16l 

To  make 160 

Tomato 166, 167 

Walnut 167 

BaUL'FLOWER, 

Baked 861 

Boiled ...  860 

Scalloped 861 

Salad 861 

When  in  season 917 

With  mushrooms — 861 
Celery. 

And  parsley 181 

Fringed  796 

Frozen 773 

Season  for 917 

Stewed 861 

Cerealine 18 

Charlotte. 

Apple 113 

Strawberry 114 

Charlotte-russe.107, 


Fancy  form  for 108 

Filling  for 107 

Mold  for 107 

Cheese 182 

Apple 731 

American 183 

Cakes 186,  637 

Course 185  I 


Page. 


Cottage. 191 

Crusts 186 

Cream  191 

Diablotins 186 

English 183 

Fingers 187 

Fondu  187 

Fritters 188 

Omelet  188 

Potato 192 

Pounded 192 

Pudding 188 

Puffs 188 

Quality  of  183 

Ramakins .193 

Relisn 188 

Sandwiches 189 

Souffle 189 

Soup  189 

Stews  189 

Toasted 192 

Toasted,  with  eggs  . . 193 

To  keep 184 

To  ripen 184 

To  serve 184, 185 

To  toast 195 

Vol-au-vents  195 

With  celery 190 

With  crackers 190 

With  eggs 190 

With  Macaroni 191 

Cherries 307,  322 

Canned 152,  156, 

Candied 342 

Dried 344 

Frosted 333 

Frozen . 334 

Ground,  sweet 307 

Paste 348 

Sauce 323 

Tapioca 347 

When  in  season 427 

Chestnuts. 

Season  for — 917 

Stewed 338 

Chicken. 

And  macaroni.: 815 

Baked 696 

Baked,  Buckeye 696 

Baked  with  parsnips  696 

Boiled  697,  714 

Braised 464 

Breaded 697 

• Broiled 698 

Creoled 699 

Chili  colorad 711 

Croquettes 794 

Curried 704 

Cutlets 704 

Cutlets,  French. . . 705 

Cutlets,  larded 705 

Essence 705 

Fillets  . 705 

Fillets,  breaded 705 

Fillets,  braised 705 

Fillets,  fried 705 

Fricassee 706 

Fried  spring 698 

Fried  whole 699 

Gems 707 

In  jelly 699 

Jellied 699 

Jellied,  plain 699 

Larded 702 


INDEX  TO  COOKERY  RECIPES. 


1267 


Page. 

Livers  with  bacon. . 711 

Masked 

700 

Patties 

706 

Pie 

707 

Pickled 

Pot-pie 

708 

Potted 

701 

Pressed 

701 

Pudding  

....709 

Quenelles 

710 

Roast 

701 

Roast,  French.  . 

702 

Roast,  pot 

365 

Scalloped 

702 

Smothered 

Steamed 

703 

Stewed 

703 

To  bone  

.. ..1050 

To  cut  up 

.. ..1049 

Truffled  

704 

Trussed 

1050 

Turnovers 

710 

Vanity 

....710 

M ith  asparagus 

711 

■With  ovsters 

.702,  707 

With  potatoes.  . 

707 

With  rice 

.698,  714 

Chocolate. 

Making 

209 

Meringued 

210 

Vienna 

....  211 

Whipped 

211 

Whipped  cream. 

....211 

When  in  season. 

....917 

Chub,  season  for  . 

917 

Cider 

216 

Bottled 

216 

Mulled  

216 

Citron,  candied. . 

342 

Clam. 

Boiled 

799,  800 

Chowder 

798 

Fried 

798 

Pie 

799 

Scalloped 

....808 

Stew 

799 

When  in  season.. 

917 

Cobbler. 

Apple 

....637 

Berry 

....637 

Cherrv  

....637 

Peach 

....637 

Plum 

COCOANUT 309,  339 

Cones 

....188 

Patties 

. . . .133 

Puffs 

To  dry . . 

.. ..339 

To  Tjrepare 

.69, 132 

Cod. 

Boiled  

....271 

Sounds 

.273 

Sounds  with  force- 

meat 

Cod  Fish. 

A la  mode 

....273 

And  eggs  

Balls 

Cream 

....274 

Fritters  

....273 

Mountain 

Masked 

. ...  274 

Scalloped 

.. ..273 

Clove  of  Garlic.  . 

....643 

Coffee. 

Army 

Black 

Clear 

Page. 

. ...  211 

Crust 

..  Filtered 

202 

Filtered,  home  made  203 

For  one  hundred..  ..213 

For  twenty 

214 

Iced 

.204,  212 

Iced  crust 

212 

Imperial 

212 

Making 199 

, 200,  201 

1 Steamed 

Strainer 

202 

Syrup 

. 214,  999 

To  buy 

197 

To  grind 

199 

To  heat 

201 

To  roast 

198 

Vienna 

Warmed  over. . . 

212 

Wine  .... 

White 

213 

Whipped  cream 

213 

Coffee  Pot,  to  clean 

202, 1,000 

Cold  Beef. 

An  Gratin 

575 

A la  Jardiniere.. 

Broiled  

571 

Fricassee 

573 

Fritters 

573 

Hashed 

.572,  573 

Loaf  

574 

Masked 

572,  577 

Olives 

Patties 

Pot-pie 

575 

Pudding 

575 

Rollages 

575 

Soused 

572 

Stewed 

573 

With  macaroni  . 

576 

With  mushroom 

sauce 

With  oysters 

572, 576 

With  tomatoes  .. 

Cold  Meat. 

And  bread 

570 

And  potato  puffs 

....570 

Batter 

....565 

Fried 566 

Fried  corned 566 

Molded 566 

Omelet 567 

Ovals 567 

Pie 567 

Pudding 566 

Ragout  of 570 

Roll 569 

Spiced  on  toast 575 

Turnovers  570 

With  barley 571 

With  eggs 571 

Wonders  570 

COLOEING  FOR  CAKES, 

Etc. 

Blue 411 

Brown 411 

Caramel  179,  411 

Cochineal 142 

Green  411 

Parsley 180 


Page. 

Pink 

Red  

Spinach 

180 

Compotes 

Apple 

Apricot 

Bird 

' Cherry 

322 

Damson 

321 

Gooseberry 

323 

Green-gage.  

323 

Orange 

Peach 

Pear 

Pear,  with  eggs 

Quince 

Syrup 

White 

Confectionery  ., 

Consomme 

.178,  825 

Cookies. 

Chocolate 

Cream 

97 

Eggless 

97 

Fruit 

Ginger 

Graham 

97 

Hickory  Nut 

97 

North  Germ 

a n 

Christmas 

97 

Nutmeg 

Oven  for 

96 

Seed 

Scotch 

Who-tleberrv... 

98 

Cooks  Time-table.. 913-914 

Cordial. 

Curry 

216 

Raspberry 

216 

Corn. 

And  Tomatoes 

canned 

Boiled 

Canned 

Chowder 

Doiley 

Dodgers 

Dried 

862,  878 

Dried,  grated 

293 

Dried,  new  process.. 878 

Fried 

Hulled 

863,  879 

In  Brine 

Meal 

Omelet 

Pie 

. .. .862 

Pones 

43 

Steamed 

Stewed 

When  in  season 

917 

Corn  Bread 18 

, 30,  31 

Boston  

Boiled 

30 

Fire  for 

Plain 

Steamed 

.30,  31 

Crackers. 

Egg 

French 

Crabs. 

Boiled 

Deviled 

Fried 

1268 


INDEX  TO  COOKERY  RECIPES. 


Page. 

To  prepare 1052 

When  in  season 917 

Crayfish  potted 279 

Cracknels  . 40 

Cream 40 

Cranberries. 

Season  for  917 

Cream. 

Almond 202 

Chocolate 117 

Coliee 118 

Double 109,  384 

Double  , true 384 

For  whipping 109 

Gelatine  for 106 

Italian 116 

Measurement  of 110 

Of  the  Cream 384 

Raspberry 117 

Rock 117 

Ruby 117 

Single 109,  384 

Substitute  for 201 

Tapioca 118 

Tea 118 

To  cook 384 

To  make 106 

Turret 118 

Whipped 119 

Cream  Biscuits iOl 

Custard 401 

Fruit 402-403 

Fruit  cases  for  .401 

Italian 402 

Nut 403 

Paper  cases  for 401 

Peach .* 402 

Strawberry 403 

V auilla .403 

V auilla  with  syrup . . 403 
Cream  Candy. 

Almond 136 

Chocolate. 137 

Chocolate,  maple 138 

Cocoa-nut 137 

E v'erton 135 

Fig 137 

French 135 

French,  uncooked... 137 

Hickory-nut 137 

Lemon 137 

Ribbon 136 

Vanilla  almond 136 

Walnut  136 

Cream  Tartar. 

Purity  of 36 

Quantity  of 35 

Presents 98 

Crullers 100 

Fat  for 99 

When  to  eat 100 

Croquettes. 

Bread 300 

Chieken 300-302 

Chicken  with  brains, 301 
Chicken  with  sweet- 
breads   301 

Crab 302 

Cream 302 

Ham 301 

Hominy 302 

Lobster 303 

Meat 303 

Meat,  fresh 303 


Page. 

Mutton 301,  305 

Oyster 303 

Parsnip 304 

Potato 304 

Rice 304 

Rice  ball 305 

Salsify 305" 

To  bread. 299 

To  fry  299 

To  make 298 

To  serve... 300 

To  shape 288 

Triple ..301 

Veal 301 

Venison 305 

With  Truffles  ..301 

Without  breading.. .200 
Croutons. 

For  Entrees 850 

For  Soup  849 

For  Vegetables 850 

Crumpets. 

Engli<-h 40 

Hominy 41 

Rice 41 

Royal  41 

Crusts,  to  bake 604 

Cucumbers 863 

Fried  863 

Sewed 863 

With  Onions  863 

Season  for 917 

Cup. 

Currant  217 

Fruit 217 

Currants 308,  323 

Candied 342 

Canned  152 

Dried  341-345 

Frosted 333 

Frozen 335 

Spiced 667 

Custard. 

Apple 119 

Baked 119 

Boiled  106,107,119 

Caramel 119 

Caramel,  boiled 120 

Chantilly 429 

Chocolate 120 

Coffee 120 

Corn  Meal 120 

Cup 121 

Curdled  110 

Flavor  for 107 

Fruit  121 

Gelatine 121 

Kettle 107 

Lemon 121 

Orange 626 

Rule  for 106 

Snow-ball  121 

Steamer  for 110 

To  bake 106 

To  make 106 

To  steam 107 

Cutlets,  frills  for 979 

Crystallization 422 

Damsons,  season  for.. .917 

Canned 156 

Dandelions 863 

Dessert  Jellies. 

To  make 444 

To  mold ,444 


Page. 

To  serve 445 

Diamond  Top 616 

Dinner. 

Boiled 829,  875 

New  England 484 

Doughnuts 99 

Corn  Meal 101 

Cream 101 

Dough  for 100 

Fat  for  99-100 

French 101 

Oily  Koeks 102 

Raised  1 01 

Sugar  for lOO 

Doves,  season  for 917 

Drinks 197 

Harvest 217 

Jelly ..217 

Lemon 217 

Oatmeal ..217 

Dressing. 

Bacon  . . 775 

Bacon,  with  Onions. 775 

Bavarian' 775 

Bohemian 775 

Bouillon ...  775 

Bouillon,  Jellied  — 776 

Bread 356 

Cream 776,  796 

Cream,  cold  ..776 

Cream,  sour 776 

Creole  777 

Eggless  776-777 

English 777 

Foam 779 

French 777 

Fruit 356 

Italian 777 

Lactiola 777 

Mayonnaise 777 

Mayonnaise,  green.. 778 
Mayonnaise,  red . . . .778 

Minnehaha 778 

Onion 356 

Orange 778 

Orange,  jellied 778 

Philadelphia 782 

Pickle 577 

Potato 356,  779 

Raspberry 778 

Raspberry,  jellied . . .779 

Rice  714 

Rye  Beach 776 

Sandwich 587 

Sardine 778 

Swenish 779 

Swiss  779 


Drippings,  clarified ...  587 
Drops. 

Bergamot 134 

Centennial  134 

Chocolfdte 134 

Cinnamon 134 

Clove 134 

Cocoanut 134 

Coffee 234 

Damson 134 

Fruit 135 

Ginger 134 

Lemon . - .134,  135 

Orange 135 

Orgeat 135 

Peppermint 136 

Strawberry  13B 


INDEX  TO  COOKERY  RECIPES, 


1269 


Page. 


®ucK,  tame. 


Roast 

..713 

Stewed 

. .713 

With  cabbage... 

..713 

W ith  carrots 

. .713 

With  pease 

..713 

Duck,  wild. 

Baked 

.354 

Boiled 

.354 

Broiled 

..354 

Fried 

..371 

Hashed 

..354 

Mock  

..480 

Ragout  of 

.,354 

Roast  

355,  358 

Salmi  of 

..356 

Stewed 

..355 

Stewed  with  pease. 

..355 

Stewed  with  rice... 

,.356 

When  in  season. 

..918 

Dumplings  for  Dessert. 

Apple,  baked. . 

.738 

Apple,  boiled..., 

..738 

Buckeye  

.739 

Lemon 

.739 

Peach  

.739 

Raspberry 

..740 

Dumplings  for  Meat.  etc. 

Buckeye 

.850 

Marrow 

.8-50 

Quick  

.850 

Suet 

.850 

Sussex  

.850 

Swedish 

..850 

Eels. 

Fried 

274 

To  cook 

.250 

Egg. 

Balls 

.237 

Charlotte 

.237 

Charlotte,  sweet. 

.237 

Fritters 

,.237 

Gems 

.238 

Mayonnaise 

,.238 

Puree 

.238 

Pyramids 

.979 

Sandwiches 

..238 

Soup 

.238 

Terrace 

.,239 

Vol-au-Vent 

..234 

Eggs 

.225 

Baked 

Baked  with  ham 

.228 

Boiled 

.229 

Boiled,  to  serve . . 

.229 

Breaded  

..239 

Broiled 

Buttered 

Creamed 

236 

Curried 

.230 

Deviled 

Flavor  of 

.225-226 

Force-meat 

.231 

French 

Fricassed 

.231 

Pried  

.231 

Holland 

Italian 

.232 

Mumbled 

,235 

Nugget 

.232 

Onion 

.233 

Pickled 

Plover’s 

.233 

Poached  

.233 

Page. 


Quality  of 226 

Savory  235 

Scalloped 234 

Scrambled 235 

Shirred 2.36 

Shredded 236 

Spanish 234 

Stuffed 236 

Time  to  cook .229 

To  keep 245 

To  mix 226 

To  test  . . .226 

With  Cheese 239 

. With  Cucumbers. ..  .238 

With  Mushrooms 239 

With  Pease ,239 

With  Syrup 240 

With  Tomatoes 240 

With  Vinegar 240 

Whites  of 69 

Yolks  of 69 

Egg-plant. 

Baked 864 

Fried 864 

In  cakes 864 

Elderberries. 

Spiced 668 

When  in  season  918 

Endive,  stewed 861 

English  bread  and 

butter ,195 

Fanchonettes 638 

Figs,  to  freshen 341 

Fish. 

Au  court-bouillon..  .253 

Au  gratin 270,  288 

Baked 251 

Balls 251 

Balls,  chopped 264 

Boiled 252 

Boiled,  to  serve 254 

Broiled 254 

Broiled,  to  serve 255 

Cake 264 

Cake,  white 264 

Cake,  yellow 265 

Canapes  269 

Chowder 265 

Cod 249 

Collared  256 

Croquettes 266 

Crimped 256 

Curried 256 

Deviled  257 

Dressing 266 

Dried  .257 

For  Invalids 249 

Fresh 246 

Fresh  Water  251 

French  stew  of 263 

Fricassed 257 

- Fricasse  of  Cod 258 

Fried 258 

Fritters  267 

Garnishes  for 249,  976 

In  Jelly ...270 

In  season 246 

Knife  and  fork....  ..286 

Marinade 253 

Pan,  fried 277 

Patties 568 

Pickled 259 

Pies 267 

Potted . . .260 


Page. 


Pudding 267 

Rissoles 268 

Salad 268 

Salt  water 251 

Salted 261 

Sandwiches  269 

Sauces  for 980 

Scaloped 261 

Souffle 269 


Soup 269-270 

Spiced 287 

Steamed 2(12 

Stewed  . . . 262 

Straws .‘ .270 

Toast  270 

To  bake 248,  252 

To  boil  248 

To  bone  248 

To  broil ,248,  225 

To  clean 247 

To  cook 248,  250 

To  fry  248 

To  freshen 247 

To  marinade 254 

To  shape 248 

To  steam .248 

To  serve 249-250 

To  use  cold 247 

To  wash »...  .247 

Trivet  for.-.. 251 

Turbans ..  .270 

Utensils 250 

Warmed  over 288 

Weter  for 252 

With  cheese 270 

With  olives 271 

With  rice 271 


White,  baked  — 286-287 
White,  boiled..  ..272,  287 

White,  creamed 288 

Flavor. 


Apple 443 

Apricot  . . 443 

Cherry 443 

Currant 443 

Grape  443 

Nectarine 443 

Orange 443 

Plum 443 

Raspberry 443 

Strawberry 443 

Float. 

Orange 123,  326 

Peach .327 

Pear 327 

Quince 327 

Raspberry 332 

Flour 7-8 

Always  sift 96 

Brown-bread 18 


Browned 

Whole  wheat  — 

Force-meat 

Almond 

Balls 

Bread  and  Onion 

Chestnut 

Chicken 

Fish 

French 

Game 

Ham 

Liver  

Lobster 


.557 

-.18 

..551 

,.551 

.654 

,.553 

.652 

.553 

.553 

.552 

.552 

.552 

.515 

.S52 


1270 


INDEX  TO  COOKERY  RECIPES. 


Page. 


Mushroom 552 

Oyster 553 

Potato  516 

Querelles  of 551 

Sage  aud  onion 554 

Sausage 553 

Suet 553 

Sweet-bread 553 

Veal  553 

Fowl. 

Braised 712 

Deviled 712 

Grilled 712 

Molded 459 

French  Brioche \...52 

French  Loaf: 12 

Pan  for 13 

Fricatelli 515 

Fritters 289 

Apple 291 

Apricot 292 

Bananas .292 

Batter  for  289 

Berry 292 

Brain .292 

Cake 292 

Celery  292 

Clam 293 

Cracker  dust  in 289 

Corn 293 

Corn,  dried 293 

Corn  meal .293 

Cream 293 

Currant 294 

Doily .294 

Egg-plant 590 

Fat  for 290 

Fruit 290 

Grape 294 

Hominy 294 

Italian 294 

Lemon 294 

Lobs  er 294 

Mincemeat 295 

Nutmeg 295 

Orange 292.  295 

Oyster 295 

Pai  snip 295 

Peach 295 

Pipe-apple 296 

Pork 296 

Potato 296 

Queen 296 

Rice 296 

Rye  ..  ‘...297 

Sandwich 297 

Size  of 291 

Snow 297 

Sugar  in 289 

To  drain 290 

To  keep  hot 291 

To  serve 291 

Walnut 297 

Frogs 654 

Au  court  bouillon.  ...555 

Fricasseed 554 

Fried 555 

Saddles 555 

Salad 555 

Fruit. 

Albuminous 309 

A necessity 309 

Arrangement  of 310 


Balls 336 


Page. 


Candied 

.340 

Cases 

.406 

Center  piece.  . . 

309,  310 

Charlotte 

.738 

Cheese 

347 

Closet 

.147, 

663 

Creams 

.311 

Dried 

.339 

Dried  in  cakes  . 

,347 

Evaporator  . . , 

.340 

Florida  grape  .. 

.324 

Frosted 

333 

Frozen.  

.334 

Glazed 

.335 

Iced 

.335 

In  jelly 

337 

Juices 

336, 

1004 

Knife 

.312 

Macedoine- jO^... 

CO 

CO 

CJl 

,336 

Motto 

306 

Pastes  . 

.347 

Salad  

.336 

Surprise 

.401 

Toast  

.337 

To  bake 

.311 

To  dry 

.340 

To  mold 

..311 

To  preserve.  .. 

1078 

To  serve .. 

.312 

Fuel,  value  of . . . 
Game. 

.920 

, 921 

Broiling 

.350 

Dark-meated. . . 

.349 

Garnishes  for. . 

.977 

Hashed 

.353 

Larding 

.352 

Potted  

,.374 

Puree  of 

.374 

Sauces  for 

.981 

Serving 

.354 

To  dress 

.850 

To  frv 

,.352 

To  keep 

. 349 

,350 

To  pick 

.350 

To  preserve  — 

1024 

To  roast 

.351 

To  singe . . 

.350 

To  steam 

To  wash 

.350 

Wild  flavor  of.. 

.352 

White-meated., 

.349 

Garnishes 

.975 

Fan  

. 980 

Fancy 

.980 

For  Creams 

.975 

For  Fish 

.976 

For  Game  

.977 

For  Meats 

.976 

For  Poultry 

.977 

For  Salads 

.978 

For  Vegetables 

.978 

Leaves  for 

.310 

Of  root  flowers. 

,980 

Gelatine 

Gems. 

Corn 

...41 

Graham 

,..41 

Oatmeal 

,..41 

Sweet  Milk 

,..41 

Wheaten 

. 

..41 

Ginger-bread  ... 

...102-103 

Alum 

..103 

Fairy 

..103 

Loaf 

Page. 

Spiced 

Sponge 

104 

Soft 

104 

To  make 

102 

To  keep 

102 

White 

104 

Glaze 

547 

Brush 

558 

Kettle 

558 

Roll 

16 

Golden  Buck 

195 

Good  Cooking...  . 
Goose. 

564 

Larded  wild 

358 

Roast  wild.. . 

...356 

Smoked  wild. . . 

3.58 

When  in  season 

...  .918 

Gooseberry 

308 

Canned 

152,  1.56 

Dried 

345 

Fool 

323 

Spiced 

668 

Trifle 

324 

When  in  season 

918 

Graham  Bread:  18,31,  32 

Fire  for 

19 

Quick 

32 

Steamed 

82 

With  baking  powder.. 32 

With  soda  

32 

Grapes 

324 

Candied 

...  .342 

Canned 

.153,  155 

Frosted 

333 

Frozen  

335 

Jellied 

324 

Spiced 

....  668 

When  in  season 

918 

GREBN-gages 

Dried 

345 

Gravy 

555 

Beef 

559 

Beef,  rich 

559 

Brown  

559 

Brown,  cheap . . 

.559 

Brown,  rich 

559 

Carrot...  

560 

Economical.  .. 

560 

Economy  of 

, 555,  556 

Giblet..  

560 

Herb 

561 

Heidelberg 

. 561 

Horse-radish  . . . 

561 

Jugged  ....  . . . 

561 

Liver 

560 

Maitre  d’hotel . . 

562 

Milk 

562 

Onion 

552 

Orange 

562 

Piquant  

562 

Sage 

563 

Seasoning  for . . 

Sour  cream 

365 

To  make 

.555,  556 

Veal 

563 

"ypni.qnn  

563 

Without  meat. .. 
Gbiddle-Cakes. 

560 

377 

Ba.ttp.r 

Batter,  raised . . . 

377 

Bread 

377 

Bread,  raised . . 

378 

Bucket  for 

996 

Buckwheat 

.378,379 

INDEX  TO  COOKERY  RECIPES, 


1271 


Page. 

Cerealine 

.379 

Clam 

.380 

Corn .377, 

380, 

385 

Corn,  raised.... . 

.380 

Eggs  for 

.376 

Farina 

.380 

Flannel 

.380 

French 

.381 

French,  plain . . . 

.381 

Fruit 

.381 

Gluten 

.381 

Graham 

.381 

Green  corn 

.382 

Hominy 

.382 

Lifter  for 

.377 

Milk  for 

.377 

Oatmeal 

.382 

Potato 

.382 

Potato,  grated.. 

.382 

Powders  for 

.377 

Rice 

.382,  388 

Rye 

.382 

Squash 

.383 

Tomato 

.377 

To  turn 

Griddle. 

.376 

Soap-stone 

.376 

Stone 

.376 

To  care  for 

.376 

To  grease 

Grouse. 

.376 

Braised 

.358 

Fried 

.371 

Pie 

,.359 

Roast 

.358 

Salad* 

,.359 

Sandwiches 

Guava  

Haddock. 

.307 

Boiled 

.275 

Creamed^ 

.275 

When  in  season. 
IfALIBUT. 

,.918 

Baked 

.275 

C reeled  

.275 

When  in  season, 
Ham, 

,.918 

Balls 

.581 

Baked  

.522 

Boiled 

..523 

Boned 

..524 

Broiled 

..524 

Cake 

.526 

Fried  with  eggs 

..525 

Frizzled 

Garnished 

..524 

Grated..., 

Omelet 

..581 

Pie  

.582 

Potted 

.525 

Puffs 

.526 

, 582 

Relish  

.582 

Roly-poly 

Sandwiches 

.522 

,.582 

Scalloped 

.582 

Soup 

.582 

Squares  ...  . . . 

..526 

Steamed 

526 

Stuffed 

.522 

, 582 

To  garnish 

.979 

With  jelly 

..582 

With  vinegar... 
Hare. 

..583 

Jugged  

. .360 

Page. 

Roast 360 

Hash 564 

American 564 

Baked 563 

Baked,  Mutton 578 

Beef .573 

Boston 573 

English .-.564 

Fried 573 

Turkey 574 

Vegetable 876 

Head. 

Baked 541 

Boiled 542 

Browned 542 

Broiled 543 

Cakes 546 

Calfs’ 542 

Cheese 546 

Cheese,  spired 546 

Collared.*. 543 

Croquettes 546 

Croquettes,  spiced... 546 

Fricassed 543 

Fritters 546 

Lambs’  541 

Molded  543 

Pie 546' 

Potted 544 

Ragout  of  Calf’s 546 

Scalloped 544 

Sheep’s 541 

Stewed 544 

Stuffed 542 

Heart. 

Baked 485 

Broiled  Sheep’s  490 

Fried 486 

Hen’s  Nest 240 

Herbs. 

For  seasoning 163 

Sweet 565 

To  dry 163 

When  in  season .918 

Herring. 

Baked 276 

Baked,  salt 276 

Pudding 276 

Salted 261 

Season  for 918 

Hickory-nuts 339 

Hidden  Mountain 123 

Hops,  to  keep 54 

Hominy 864 

Boiled 864 

Coarse 593 

Fine  593 

Fried. . 593 

- Horse-radish. 

For  winter 173 

Season  for 918 

Stewed 864 

Huckleberries 308 

Apple 409 

Apricot.. 409 

Citron  409 

Cherry  409 

Chocolate  402,  633 

Currant 409 

Gooseberry 410 

Grape 410 

Lemon 410 

Nectarine 409 


Page. 

Orange 410 

Orange,  gopher 412 

Peach 409-410 

Peaches  and  cream.. 410 

Pear 409 

Pine-apple 411 

Plum 409 

Raspberry 410 

Snow 411 

Strawberry 410-411 

Tutti  Frutti 411 

Water-melon 409 

Ices 407 

Canned  fruit  for 409 

Garnish  for 408 

Increase  of 408 

Juice  for 407 

Meringue  for 507.  634 

Pulp  for 407 

Syrup  for 634 

To  mold 408 

To  serve 408 

Ice-cream. 

Almond 386,  393,  396 

Almond  caramel  393 

Apple 390,  400 

Apricot 399 

Arrowroot  393 

Banana 400 

Best  with  fruit 387 

Boston 393 

Brine  Blanket  for.... 388 

Buttermilk 393 

Cabinet 400 

Cake  for 391 

Cave  for 391 

Caramel 394,  396 

Cherry 399 

Chesnut  394 

Chocolate 394 

Chocolate  caramel.. 394 
Chocolate  custard..  .395 

Chocolate,  fruit 394 

Chocolate  moss 395 

Chocolate,  spiced 394 

Cocoa-nut 386,  395 

Coffee 395 

Coffee,  whipped 395 

Coffee,  white 395 

Custard 395 

Custard  kettle  for,  ...392 

Eggless 387,  396 

Eggs  for 387 

Fancy 394 

Filbert 396 

Fig 396 

Flavor  for 384,  393 

Freezer 1001 

Freezer,  care  of 392 

Fruit  386 

Fruit  for 386,  392-393 

Fruit  flavors  for  .388 

Gelatine 397 

Ginger  397 

Harlequin 397 

Hickory-nut .397 

Italian  397 

Italian  custard 398 

Jam  397 

Jam  for 392 

Kentucky  397 

Lacteandla  . ..385,392 

Lemon  liOS 

Macaroon 398 


1272 


INDEX  TO  COOKERY  RECIPES. 


Page. 

Macaroon  caramel..  .498 


Molds  for 389 

Neapolitan 384,  392 

New  York 398 

Nut 393 

Orange 399 

Peach.  399, 400 

Pine-apple 400 

Pistachio 393 

Philadelphia,  384,387,392 

Plum  369 

Proportions  for 387 

Raspberry 399 

Riced  orange 399 

Saratoga 400 

Self  freezing  . . ..389,  390 

Strawberry 399 

Substitutes  in 292 

Sugar  for 384,  387 

Surprise 401 

Tea 395,  401 

To  freeze 387,  389 

To  make 385,  388 

To  mold 389 

To  serve 389,  390 

Triple ,.398 

Tutti  Frutti 401 

Utensils  for.387, 392, 1014 

Vanilla 401 

Vanilla  custard 401 

With  eggs 385 

Without  eggs 385 

Whipped 398 

Whipped  cream  for,  384, 


Icing. 

Almond 415 

Beating 413 

* Boiled 415 

Boiled,  eggless. 416 

Boiled,  chocolate — 417 

Cape  May 957 

Clear 417 

Chocolate.. 416 


Chocolate  caramel... 417 
Chocolate  cream  — 416 

Chocolate,  spiced 417 

Chocolate  gelatine... 417 


Cocoa 416 

Confectioner’s 417 

Corn-starch 418 

Diagrams  for 423 

Duplex 957 

Eggless 416,  418 

For  Bride’s  cake 425 

For  Chantilly  custrd,428 
For  Charlotte  Russe,427 

For  Dessert  cake 426 

For  Jelly  cake 427 

French 418 

Gelatine 418 

Glaze 418 

Hard 418 

Inlaid ■.  .421 

Isinglass 418 

Lemon 419 

Marble 419 

Meringue 419 

Orange 419 

Ornamental 421 

Pearl 420 

Piping 422 

Plain 413, 420 

Proportiea  for 414 


Quick 

Soft  

Page. 

420 

Snow 

420 

Smoother 

Spatula  for 

To  apply 

To  make 

Transparent  

Tutti  Frutti 

Water 

420 

Yellow 

Island. 

Cocoa-nut 

Floating 

Jam 

......430 

Apple 

Apricot 

431 

Berries  for 

Berry 

435 

Blackberry 

.432,  433 

Carrot 

......432 

Cherry  

432 

Currant 

432 

Damson 

432 

French. 

432 

Gooseberry  — 

433 

Gooseberry  with  cur- 

rant  juice 

433 

Grape  

433 

Green-gage 

433 

Making 

430 

Paddle  for 

430 

Pie-plant 

433 

Pie-plant  andOrange434 

Pine-apple 

434 

Plum 

. .433,  434 

Quince 

434 

Raspberry 

434 

Strawberry 

435 

To  keep 

Jelly. 

Apple 

Apricot 

438 

Aspic 

..445,  715 

Bag 

436 

Blackberry 

439 

Calf’s-foot 

445 

Cherry 

439 

Chocolate 

446 

Cider 

446 

Coffee  

446 

Corn-starch.... 

447 

Crab-apple 

Cranberry 

439 

Currant 

Currant,  black. 

.440 

Currant,  uncooked.. 440 

Dried  apple  — 

438 

Easter  

447 

Elderberry 

440 

Four  fruit 

448 

Fruit 

. .435,  447 

Gooseberry 

441 

Grape 

441 

Grape,  wild.... 

441 

Italian 

Lemon 

447 

Lemon  snow . . . 

447 

Muscadine 

441 

Orange 

448 

Peach 

..441,448 

Pie  Plant 

Pigs-foot  

449 

Pine-apple 

. .441,  449 

Page 

Plum 

Quince 

Raspberry 

,443 

Ribbon... 

449 

Sandwiches 

Savory  

Strainer 

Strawberry 

439  ,443 

Tapioca 

Tomato 

443 

To  make 

435—437 

To  cover 

436 

To  test  

.... .436 

450 

Witif  Fruit 

450 

JONNY-CAKE 

42 

Alabama.. 

Jumbles 

Coacoa-nut 

98 

Lemon 

98 

To  finish 

KIDNEYS 

Broiled 

..  . 490 

Fried 

491 

Mutton 

491 

Ragout 

491 

Stewed 

491 

Veal  and  bacon. 

460 

Kedgeree 

Kisses 

Oven  for  , ■ , 

131 

Sugar  for 

131 

Knitted  cover.. 

689 

Kringles 

Lamb. 

Braised  .... 

498 

Boiled 

503 

Carbonade  of... 

Chops 

...  501 

Curried 

503 

Deviled 

..  ..  577 

Fricassee 

Fried 

577 

Grilled 

498 

Roast 

499 

Squares 

Stewed 

With  Asparagus 500 

With  Pease 

With  Tomatoes, 

500 

Landrails 

Lemon 

Frappee 

Peel,  candied. 

218 

Paste — 

Lemonade. 

Effervescing. . . 

Egg  • ■ • 

Everyday ...... 

219 

91 Q 

218 

Hot 

Milk  

219 

Picnic 

Pocket  

220 

Sparkling 

218 

Tutti  Frutti.... 
Lettuce 

Puree  of 

......871 

Stewed 

Wilted 

864 

Liver 

And  Bacon 

488 

Bfl.ked  

486 

Balls 

Blanquettesoi. 

INDEX  TO  COOKERY  RECIPES. 


1273 


Page. 


. Broiled 487 

Curried 487 

Deviled 487,  577 

Fried 488 

Larded 486 

Larded,  broiled 487 

Minced 488 

Pudding 489 

Rolls 489 

Stewed 489 

Stuffed 874 

Lobster. 

Boiled 800 

Broiled 800 

Croquettes 801 

Curried 1052 

Cutlets 801 

Deviled 800 

Ragout  of 801 

Roasted 801 

Salad 787 

Sauce 1053 

Scalloped 801 

Macaroni. 

Baked . .865 

Boiled 865 

Italian 865 

Triple 865 

With  Tomatoes 865 

Macaroons, 

Almond 139 

Chocolate 139 

Hickory-nut 139 

Lemon 139 

Pecan 139 

Pyramid  of 139 

Mackerel. 

Baked 276 

Baked  Salt 276 

Boiled 276 

Boiled  Salt 276 

Broiled 277 

Pickled.-. 277 

When  in  season 918 

Mangoes. 

Hawk  eye 659 

Horse-radish  for  660 

Melon 659 

Pepper 660 

Pepper  with  tongue. 661 

Tomato 661 

Yellow 659 

Marmalade 723 

Apple 733 

Apricot 733 

Crab  Apple 623 

Crab  Apple  for  pies. 723 

Fig 733 

Orange 733 

Peach 734 

Pine-apple 7.34 

Wild  Plum 734 

Marsh  mallow 140 

Mead..  220 

Meat, 

Balls 489 

Batte>r 565 

Bear  353 

Boiled 455 

Braising 455 

Broiled 457 

Carving  455 

Cold 563 

Court  Bouillion 456 


Page, 

Deviled 

....712 

Fried 

458 

Garnishes  for 

976 

Glazing 

..  ..435 

Jellied 

456 

Larding 

....459 

Marinade 

456 

Molded 

....459 

Potted  

. ...460 

Sauces  for 

... .980 

Steamed 

. ...603 

Stewed 

446 

To  cook  

..  ..454 

To  garnish 

....455 

To  keep 

453 

To  restore 

453 

To  serve 

455 

Tough 

. ...  454 

When  tender 

..  ..453 

Melons 

308,  338 

Nutmeg 

308,  338 

Japan 

..  ..308 

Water 

308,  338 

Meringue. 

Apple 

614 

For  pies 

604 

Marbled 

390 

Oven  for 

131 

Peach 

614 

Pieplant 

614 

Milk,  use  of 

19 

Mince  meat 

622 

Appleless 

. . . .624 

Dried  apples  for 

623 

Farmer.s .' 

624 

Fragment 

624 

Holiday 

622 

Lemon 

624 

Measure 

625 

Proportion  of. . . 

623 

Suggestions  for. 

623 

Muffins. 

Corn 

52 

Cream 

42 

Graham 

42 

Indian 

42 

Rice 

42 

Rice  fiour 

43 

Rye  

43 

Sourmilk 

43 

Wheat 

43 

Mock 

Crab 

196 

Terrapin  

490 

Molded  grains.  , 

594^ 

Moonshinei 

ill 

Mullet,  baked... 

ifl 

Mush  • 

Baked 

591 

Cerealine.'. 

Cerealine,  fried. 

591 

Corn  meal.. 

.589,  591 

Cracked  wheat. 

594 

Custard  kette  for  589,490 

Farina 

592 

Fried 

.590,  592 

Gluten 

592 

Graham 

592 

Graham,  molded 592 

Granula  

592 

Philadelphia 

591 

Round  cans  for. 

.590,  592 

Rye 

Thickness  of 

590 

Page, 


To  make 

589 

To  stir 

....589 

To  serve 

Water  for 

589 

With  fruit 

Mushrooms 

Baked 

....596 

Broiled  

596 

Curried 

..  . .597 

Catsup 

599 

Catsup,  double.. 

499 

Fried 

597 

Omelet  

599 

Pickled 

597 

Potted 

...  598 

Powder 

600 

Pudding 

600 

Sauce 

6oO 

Scallops 

601 

Stems  

602 

Stewed 

598 

Toast 

602 

To  prepare 

595 

To  test  

595 

With  eyes 

602 

With  drawn  butter.. 601 

Musk  melons 

Season  for 

918 

Mustard 

164 

French 

180 

Indian 

Prepared  

180 

Tartar 

180 

Mutton 

A la  Venison 

509 

And  macaroni.. 

579 

Au  court  bouillon.  .-508 

Au  gratin 

Balls 

679 

Birds 

509 

Boiled 

.502,  503 

Boned 

503 

Braised 

498 

Chops 

.502,  506 

Chops,  masked 

Chops,  Swiss. . . 

508 

Chops  with  cheese , . .502 

Collops 

578 

Curried 

.503,  577 

Cutlets  

502 

Cutlets,  cold  — 

566 

Fillet  of 

509 

Harricot 

503 

Hash 

578 

Hot  Pot 

. ..  .507 

Leg  of 

.502,  504 

Masked 

577 

Mock  Saddle  of. 

580 

Molded 

459 

Pie 

.507,  578 

Pudding 

507 

Ragout  of 

.510,  580 

Relish 

579 

Rissoles 

Roast 

504 

Rolled 

504 

Scallops 

508 

Scalloped  

Shoulder  of 

....  578 
6o4 

Smothered 

577 

Stewed 

,,505,  579 

With  onions 

579 

With  pickles  ... 

With  Tomatoes 

579 

1274 


INDEX  TO  COOKERY  RECIPES, 


Page. 


Nectae 

Blackberry...  230 

Cherry 220 

Cream 220 

Grape 220 

Welsh 221 

Nectarines .309 

Frozen 335 

Nou.gat,  white 141 

Nuts,  arrangement  of  .310 
Oatmeal 

Fried 593 

Jellied 593 

Molded 593 

New  York 593 

Steamed 593 

Okra 

Boiled 866 

Fried 866 

Medley 866 

Patties 871 

With  Ham 866 

With  Tomatoes 866 

Olives 662 

Stuffed 475 

Beef 480 

Omelet 226 

Baked 242 

Bread 241 

Cheese  241,  243 

Chicken 243 

Chocolate, 244 

Corn 241 

Cream 241 

Fish 241 

Flabby 227 

French 241 

Fruit 244 

Lemon 242 

Meat .228,241 

Milk 242 

Mixed 241 

Mushroom 242 

Olive  242 

Orange 242 

Oyster 242 

Pan  227 

Plain 242 

Potato 243 

Puff 243 

Savory 241 

Size  of 228 

Sweet  baked 244 

Sweet,  fried 244 

To  bake 227 

To  make 527 

Vegetable 228,  244 

Water 244 

Waverly 244 

With  Parsley « 228 

Onions. 

Baked 866 

Boiled 866 

Browned 557 

Creamed 866 

Fried ; 866 

Stuffed 866 

Omelet. 866 

Pudding " 866 

With  beans 866 

When  in  season 918 

Obange. 

Citron 343 

Compote 325 


Page. 


Fool 325 

Float 123,326 

Paste 347 

Peel,  candied 443 

Snow 325 

Oranges 307,  325 

Frosted 333 

Frozen 333 

Glazed 335 

Mock  448 

When  in  season 918 

Oven. 

For  Bread 19 

Moderate 27 

Paper  test  for 14 

Oyster. 

And  chicken  pie 813 

Chowder 811 

Croquettes 811 

Fritters 811 

Fritter  Patties 812 

Omelet 811 

Ovals  567 

Pancakes 811 

Patties 812 

Pie 812 

Powder 812 

Roll 813 

Sandwiches 815 

Soup 814 

Stew 814 

Stew  with  celery  . .814 

Toast  814 

V ol-au-vents 812, 815 

Oysters. 

And  Macaroni 815 

Best  time  for 798 

Boiled 816 

Broiled 802 

Corn 293 

Creamed 802 

Curried 802 

Deviled 803 

Fricasseed 805 

Fried  . 803 

Fried,  Boston 803 

Fried,  Buckeye 803 

Fried,  Gopher 804 

Fried,  Italian 804 

Fried,  Manhattan..  .804 
Fried,  Philadelphia. 804 

Fried,  Superior 803 

Hidden. ..805 

In  shell  797,806,815 

In  scallops 809 

Panned 806 

Pickled 806 

Raw  807 

Raw,  to  serve 807 

Scalloped 808,  809 

Skewered 809 

Spiced 807 

Steamed 809 

Stuffed 810 

Truffled 810 

To  open 798 

To  prepare 707 

To  serve 798,  805 

Varieties  of 798 

Vegetable 870 

Walled 810 

With  cream 806 

With  onions 802 

Ox-eyes 240 


Page- 


Ox-tails  

Boiled 492 

Stewed 492 

Pan 

Bread 10,12, 14, 15 

Lady  Fingers 92 

Russian  Iron 16 

Stem,  substitute  for... 66 

Pancakes,  Berlin 102 

Parsnips 

Cake 868 

Fried 867 

Stewed 897 

Warmed  over 860 

Partridge 

Braised 358 

Broiled 358 

Hashed 361 

Pie 362 

Potted 361 

Rissoles  of 362 

Salad 359 

Salmi  of 366 

Stewed 361 

Roast 361,  363,  366 

With  Mushroms.  . 362 

Parsley,  fried — 181,  241 
Paste 

Batter 606 

Bean 607 

Corn  meal 606 

Cream 605 

Economical 605 

Florida 606 

Graham 605 

Hygienic 603 

Nantucket 606 

Oatmeal 606 

Oven  for .611 

Plain ..  .606 

Potato 607 

Puff 604,  607 

Puff,  French 609 

Puff,  good  607 

Puff,  medium 611 

Puff,  rich 608 

Quaker 605 

Short ...604,  611 

Suet 611 

Suet,  rich 612 

Suggestions  for  puff. 609 

Sweet 612 

To  handle  610 

To  make 610 

To  turn 610 

With  boiled  milk.... 612 
Pastry. 

Butter  for 603 

Brush 16 

Culting 603 

Egging 6' 9 

Frosting 609 

Glaze 612 

Rolling 609 

Paw  paws,  season  for. 918 

Peaches 309,  326 

And  cream 328 

Baked  ...  327 

Candied 343 

Canned 152, 153 

Canned,  cold 145 

Dried 345 

Frosted 333 

Frozen .327*  335 


INDEX  TO  COOKERY  RECIPES, 


1275 


Page. 


Frozen  with  ere  am..  327 

In  brine 

...  880 

In  marmalade . . . 

328 

Jellied 

327 

Vegetable 

309 

Peach. 

Float 

327 

Leather 

880 

Meringue 

327,  624 

Paste 

348 

Sauce 

346 

Tapioca 

328 

Pears 

.309,328 

Baked  

329 

Canned 

152,  154 

Compote 

330 

Jellied  

329 

Float  

327 

Frosted -. 

334 

Stewed 

329 

Pease. 

Baked 

868 

Canned 

658 

Creamed 

868 

Dried  

868,  880 

Green 

868 

Pudding  

.855,  868 

With  vegetables 

. . . . -.868 

When  in  season. 

918 

Pepper-nuts •' 

Pepper-pot 

876 

Pheasant. 

Broiled 

362 

Cutlets 

363 

Fried  

367 

Hashed 

361 

Pot  roast 

365 

Roast  

Pie  plant. 

Baked 

330 

Canned 

155 

. Canned,  cold... 

155 

Fried. 

331 

Meringue 

. . . .;614 

Stewed 

Pickled. 

Apples 

643 

Artichokes 

643 

Barberries 

643 

Beans 

643 

Beets 

643 

Cabbage  . . . 

644 

Cabbage  and  peppers 

Cabbage,  red . . . 

644 

Carrots 

645 

Cauliflower 

644 

Celery  and  Cabbage 

KAR 

Cherries. 

646 

Cucumbers 

652 

Eggs  

646 

Gherkins 

646 

Grapes 

646 

Lemons 

647 

Limes 

647 

Nasturtiums. . . , 

647 

Onions 

.644,647 

Onions,  Spanish 645 

Peaches 

648 

Plums 

648 

Radish  Pods... 

Sweet  corn 

649 

Tomatoes 

649 

Page. 


Walnuts 649 

Pickles 641 

Alum  for 641 

Bottles  for 641 

Cans  for 641 

Chopped 650 

Chowehow 657 

Chowchow,  Buckeye 


Chowehow,  Gopher.. 657 

Chutney 659 

Cucumbe  r 651,  653 

Cucumber,  sliced  . 653 

Cucumber,  ripe 654 

French 654 

Hanover 655 

Higdon 654 

Imitation 645 

In  Brine 641,  652 

Kettle  for  . . 641 

Ladies’  delight 650 

Martynia  654 

Mixed 654 

Oil-cloth  cover  for... 643 

Pepper .655 

Pepper,  chopped  — 655 

‘Picallilli -661 

Picnic  Relish 661 

Pyfer 655 

Rhine 645 

Salt  for 642 

Self-made  653 

Sliced 650 

Spanish 655 

Spicing  for 442 

To  keep  — . 641 

Tomato,  green  656 

Tomato,  ripe 656 

Universal ,.656 

Variety  . .656 

Vinegar  for 641,642 

West  India 657 

Pickles,  Sweet 662 

Apple  666 

Beets. . . 664 

Clingstone 666 

Currant 664,  668 

Figs  665 

Grape  .- 664 

Huckleberry 665 

Peach 665,  666 

Pear 665,  666 

Pear,  Gopher 666 

Pine-apple  666 

Raisin  665 

Ripe  Cucumber  665 

Spices  for 662 

Strawberry 666 

Sugar  for 662 

Syrup  for 552 

To  can .663 

To  make 662,663 

Tomato,  chopped  ..  .667 

Tomato,  ripe 667 

Tomato‘  sliced 667 

To  test 663 

Watermelon 667 

Pie. 

Apple. custard 614 

Apple-butter  custard 

614 

Apple,  deep  > 620 

Apple,  grated 613 

Apple,  halved 613 


Page. 


Apple,  lemon 613 

Apple  meringue 614 

Apple,  sliced — 613 

Apple,  sliced,  with  al- 

. monds  614 

Apples,  sliced,  with 

cream 613 

Apricot 626 

Banana 614 

Banana  and  apple..  .614 

Berry 615,  626 

Berry,  canned. 616 

Berry,  dried 616 

Blackberry 615 

Boiled  Cider 615 

Buttermilk 615 

California ..625 

Carrot 615 

Cherry 615 

Chess 615 

Cocoa-nut  : .616 

Corn-starch 615 

Cottage 613 

Cottage  cheese 616 

Crab-apple 614 

Cracker 618 

Cranberry 615,  618 

Cream 616 

Creamless  617 

Cream,  whipped . . . .617 

Cre  am  whipped  with 

fruit 617 

Crumb.., 617 

Currant 620 

Currant,  green 618 

Currant  ripe 618 

Custard 618 

Custard,  chocolate.  ..619 

Custard,  Jelly 519 

Custard,  raspberry  ..619 
Diamond  Top  for . . . 616 

Dried-apple 612 

Dried-apple  and  cran-  . 

berries 612 

Dried-currant 618 

Dried-peach 626 

Dried  Pumpkin 629 

Elderberry 619 

Flavoring  for 616 

Fruit 619 

Fruit,  shallow 620 

Gooseberry 620 

Grape  620 

Hickory-nut 621 

Lemon..  621 

Lemon,  boiled 621 

Lemon,  chopped . . . .621 

Lemon,  economical. 621 

Lemon,  eggless 621 

Lemon,  sliced 922 

Lemon,  with  fruit..  .621 

Meringue  for  604 

Mince-meat  for 622 

Mock-mince 618 

Molasses 625 

Orange  625 

Orange,  sliced 626 

Pans  for 604,  619 

Peach  626 

Peach,  cream 626 

Peach  meringue 614 

Pie-plant  616 


Pie-plant  meringue  . 9M. 
Pie-plant,  steweu ...  .627 


1276 


INDEX  TO  COOKERY  RECIPES, 


Page. 

Pie-plant,  with  fruit.  .627 

Pine-apple 

627 

Plum  — 

...627 

Potato 

Potato,  sweet.... 

Prune  

....  658 

Prune,  custard.. 

Pumpkin 

628 

Pumpkin,  eggless..  .626 

Raisin 

629 

Raspberry..  .615, 626,630 

Rice 

Saratoga 

Squash 

Strawberry  — .. 

,626,630 

Sweet  apple...... 

Tomato  . : 

T >mato,ripe.... 

Vinegar 

630 

Pie 

Game . 

708 

Giblet  

708 

Hampton 

Lamb 

Mixed  meat 

567 

Meat 

Meat  and  potato 

Panned  

. ..708 

Pigeon 

Raised 

429,  568 

Sea 

Tongue 

Veal 

709 

Veal  and  Ham.., 

Veal  and  Oyster. 

...  .533 

Western 

Pickerel,  baked.. 

Picnic 

Fall 

Summer 

Pig,  roast 

PiG^s  Feet,  souse. 

Pig's  Head 

Baked 

Boiled 

Cheese 

Collared 

Pigeon 

A la  mode 

Braised 

Pie 

Roast 

Stewed 

Pike,  a la  Godard 

278 

Pine- APPLE ....  307.311, 331 

And  Tapioca 

Canned 

Dried 

Frozen  

..  .334 

To  keep 

Pinch  of  sugar..  . 

Pippins,  Jellied.,, 

.....813 

Plaintans 

Plums.. 

Canned  

Dried 

346 

Frozen.... 

Paste 

347 

Pocket-books 

Pop-overs 

Corn 

Pork 

And  beans 

Boiled 

Page. 


Cake 

580 

Cheese 

.581 

Chops 

Cutlets 

Hash 

.581 

Pie 

,513 

Pudding 

.513 

Roast, 

Roast  loin  of  . . . 

.510 

Roast  leg  of 

Roll 

Steaks 

Stewed 

.512 

Tenderloin.... . 

To  keep  fresh  . . . 

.515 

POT-AU-FEU. 

.464,841 

POTATO-POT.. 

Pork,  salt 

. 485 

Boiled 

.519 

Fried 

In  Batter 

%Pot  Pie 

Pressed 

, 520 

Rashus  of 

Roast  of 

Scraps 

Stew 

With  apples 

Potato 

A la  Macaroni. . . 

.681 

A la-Maitre  d ’ Hotel . 683 

Ala  Pancake.... 

.679 

A la  Parisienne. 

Baked  

673 

Baked,  quick  .. 

.673 

Balls 

.684 

Biscuit^ 

Blanc  mange.... 

.687 

Boiled 

.674, 

,675 

Border 

.691 

Breakfast 

Broiled 

.677 

Browned 

,677 

Buckeye 

,682 

Cake.  

.685 

Cakes 

685 

Castle 

.681 

Casserole  of  . . 

..  . 

.680 

Creamed 

, Croquettes 

,686 

Curried . . 

.678 

Dashed 

.675 

Diced 

.678 

Duchesse 

Flour 

.686 

For  garnishing. 

691 

Fricassed 

678 

Fried 

.678 

Fried,  French.., 

.678 

Fried,  grated..., 

Fried,  raw 

,.678 

Fritters 

.687 

Galveston 

691 

Glazed 

.674 

Granite 

.690 

In  a cake 

678 

Jelly 

.687 

Lactiola 

.683 

Larded 

.674 

Loaves 

.691 

Lyonaise 

Marinated 

.691 

.677 

Mashed 

,679, 

682 

Mashed,  brown. 

.680 

Page. 


Mashed,  fried 688 

Molded 689 

New 676 

Omelet 686 

Pancakes 687 

Panned 680 

Pickles 687 

Pie 687 

Pudding 686 

Puffs 688 

Puree  of 680 

Rice 690 

Ringed 681 

Roasted 673 

Rolls 688 

Roses 681 

Salad 688 

Sandwiches 685 

Sauced 682 

Saratoga ..681 

Scalloped 682 

Slaw .688 

Steamed 682 

Stewed 683 

Stuffed 689 

Snow ; 689 

Souffle  689 

Soup 889 

Stew...., ........689 

Stewed 683 

Stuffed 684 

Surprise 685 

Swedish 680 

Sweet 673 

To  cook 671,  672 

To  pare 671 

To  serve 671 

To  steam 671 

Triangle 682 

Walnut  House 683 

Waterless] 675 

Whip 690 

With  bacon 679,  683 

With  cabbage 691 

With  fish .690 

With  gravy 686 

With  ham 690 

With  kidneys 690 

With  meat 673,690 

With  onions.  679,  683,  691 

With  sauce 674 

With  turnips  680 

With  vinegar 68S 

Potato,  Sweet. 

Baked 691 

Biscuits 693 

Boiled 692 

Browned 686 

Cake 686 

Cakes 693 

Carolina 692 

Cheese-cakes 693 

Fried 692 

Glazed 692 

Mashed 692 

Perfection 692 

Roasted 692 

Steamed 692 

Stewed 693 

Texas 692 

With  meat 691 

Poultry 694 

As  food 694 

Frozen 688 


INDEX  TO  COOKERY  RECIPES. 


1277 


Page. 


To  bard 

695 

To  boil 

695 

To  lard 

695 

To  roast 

695,  696 

To  stew 

695 

To  stuff 

694 

To  truss  

695 

Prairie  Chicken. 

Boiled.  

363 

Hashed 

361 

Pot-roast  of  

..  ..365 

■ Roast 

Salmi  of 

. . . 366 

Steamed 

Stewed 

366 

Preserves, 

....721 

Apple, 

723 

Apricot 

723 

Barberry 

723 

Blackberry 

724 

Blueberry 

. ...  724 

Carrot  

724 

Care  of.... 

722 

Cherry 

724 

Citron 

724 

Crab-apple 

.....725 

Cranberry 

724 

Curant. 

724 

Elderberry 

725 

Fig 

725 

Grape 

726 

Grape  wild 

725 

Green-gage 

.726  728 

Green-tomato  . . 

730 

Mulberry  

726 

Peach 

.726  727 

Pear 

727 

Pie-plant 

727 

Pine-apple 

727 

Plum..... 

728 

Pumpkin 

729 

Quince  

729 

Quince  and  apple 729 

Raspberry 

..  ..729 

Rule  for 

721 

Strawberry 

729 

Sun  * 

721 

Syrup 

Tomato  

. ...722 

729 

To  make 

. ...621 

Water-melon 

730 

Prunes 

346 

Browned 

346 

Tapioca  

347 

Whip 

347 

Pudding 

Almond 

740 

Apple 

Apple-batter 

742 

Apple,  boiled... 

742 

Apple-custard... 

Apple  charlotte. 

Apple,  dried 

751 

Apple,  sweedish 

741 

Arrowroot 

743 

Bachelor’s 

Bags 

Batter 

744 

Batter,  steamed. 

744 

Berry 

760 

Birds-nest 

742 

Blackberry 

...  746 

Blueberry. . .741, 

746,  760 

Boiled  

Page. 

Bread 744,  745 

Bread,  brown .746 

Brown 746 

Brown  Betty 741 

Cabinet 746 

Cake 747 

Cape  May 740 

Carrot 747 

Cerealine 747 

Cherry 751 

Chocolate 747,  748 

Chocolate,  with  fruit. 748 

Citron  ...  . .648 

Cocoa-nut  .746,748 

Corn-starch  748 

Cottage 749 

Cracked-wheat 749 

Cream  . 749 

Cream,  perfection. . .750 

Currant 741 

Curate’s  750 

Danish 743 

Date 750 

Delmonico 750 

Dixie 750 

Easter 749 

Easter,  with  fruit  — 749 

Economical 760 

Estelle 750 

Fig 750 


Flavor  for  Cabinet. , .405 

Florentine.,  t 745 

Frozen 

Frozen, with  gelatine  404 


Fruit 745,  757 

Gingerbread 752 

Gooseberry 745 

Graham  752 

Half-hour 752 

Hunter’s 763 

Indian. 752 

Indian,  boiled. 752 

Indian,  fruit 752 

Indian,  steamed 753 

Kiss 753 

Layer 745 

Lemon 753 

Lemon,  boiled 754 

Macaroni 754 

Milk  for 735 

Minnehaha 742 

Minute 754 

Molasses 754 

Mold 737 

Monday 745 

Nesselrode 405 

Oatmeal 754 

One,  two,  three,  four.  754 

Orange .746,754 

Paris 754 

Peach 747 

Peach,  dried 751 

Pie-plant 754 

Ptttsburg 753 

Pine-apple  756 

Plain 744 

Plum-eggless 757 

Plum,  English 756 

Plum,  Gelatine 758 

Plum,  Prairie  758 

Plum  with  apples.. .757 

Potato 758 

Prune 758 

Puff 759 


Page. 


Puflf-quick 759 

Puff,  Saratoga., 759 

Queen  Mab 759 

Queen  of 746 

Raisin 760 

Raspberry 760 

Rice 760 

Rice,  with  fruit . 760 

Rice,  boiled 760 

Sago 762 

Sago,  with  apples..  ..762 

Sauces  for 737 

Sago  with  raisins..  ..762 

Scottish 743 

Snow  762 

Souffle 762 

Steaming 736 

Sugar  in 735 

Suet 763 

Suet  for  735 

Suet,  ginger.... ..  — 763 

Suet  with  apples 763 

Sweet-potato.. 758 

Sweedish, — 829 

Swiss 763 

Tapioca 763 

Tapioca,  apple 764 

Tapioca,  peach 764 

Tapioca,  cocoa-nut.. 764 

Tapioca,  cream 764 

Vermicelli 764 

Vermicelli,  with 

Marmalade  764 

Water  bath  for 737 

White  ,..764 

Whortleberry 765 

With  apples , ...761 

With  fruit  ,....743 

With  peaches 761 

Puffs 

Breakfast. 4J 

Boston  cream  , 8« 

Buckeye  crea^/j .8J 

Raisin / 759 

Pumpkin. 

Canned — 159 

Dried 868 

Fried 880 

Season  for 918 

Quail. 

Boiled 866 

Fricassee 367 

Fried 366 

Mock 482 

On  toast.... 368 

Pot-roast 365 

Roast 367 

Steamed  367 

When  in  season 919 

Quince 

Baked 331 

Canned 155 

Compote 331 

Float  327 

In  Jelly 731 

Steamed 332 

When  in  sewson ..919 

Rabbit 368 

Boiled 368 

Creeled  . . 369 

Curried  369 

Fricassee  369 

Fried...,,  369 

Jack 36# 


1278 


INDEX  TO  COOKERY  RECIPES, 


Page. 


Potted 

. . . .369 

Roast 

370 

Sandwiches 

....370 

When  in  season.. 

....919 

Ragamuffins 

Raisine 

....332 

Raisins 

....341 

Raising  Powder. 

Proportion  of . . . . 

. 35,  62 

Ramakins . 

...193 

Pastry 

....193 

Toast  

. .. .194 

Rarebit. 

Scotch 

....194 

Welch  

....194 

Yorkshire 

195 

Raspberries  

....308 

Dried 

. . .344 

Float 

. . . .332 

When  in  season.. 

Red  Snapper 

Boiled  

...279 

Fried 

Reed  Birds 

Baked 

....370 

Roast 

. .370 

When  in  season. . 

...919 

Rice, 

Apples 

....742 

Baked 

....865 

Boiled 

...868 

Buttered  

....761 

For  curries 

....869 

Pie 

. . 869 

Stewed 

... .869 

Snow-ball 

..  ..761 

Southern  

....869 

With  milk 

Roasts. 

Pot  

566 

Spare-rib 

Tenderloin 

.....511 

..  511 

Warmed-over  ... 

...565 

Washingion 

. . . .375 

Roe. 

Crounetts 

....280 

Fried  

....279 

.lOLY-POLY. 

Apple 

....765 

Dixie 

766 

Fig 

765 

Orange 

....765 

Peach  

Rolls. 

Breakfast 

44 

Cinnamon 

44 

Coffee  — 

44 

Corn  — 

44 

Dinner 

44 

Egg 

45 

Every-day 

45 

French 

...45,46 

Graham 

47 

Italian 

...  . 47 

Oatmeal 

. ...47 

Parker  House. . . 

47 

Ring 

47 

Sno'w-flake  . . 

47 

Twist  

52 

Vienna 

...47,48 

Wedding  Sandwich..  .48 

Winter  .......... 

Roll  Pan. 

French 

Page. 


Italian 47 

Vienna 13 

Roux, 

Brown 558 

White 558 

Salad  772 

Alligator  Pear 330 

Anchovy 779 

Apple 779 

Apple  and  celery 779 

Asparagus 779 

Bean. 780 

Bean,  Lima 780 

Beef  788 

Borage 780 

Boston  795 

Brussels  790 

Cabbage 780 

Celery  781 

Cheese 784 

Chicken  781 

XlhickenMayonnaise  782 

Codfish  784 

Corn-salad .787 

Cucumber  ...783 

Cucumber  and  onion  783 
Cucumber  and  To- 
mato   794 

Currant 787 

Crab. 783 

Crawfish 783 

Creole...*.  ....794 

Dandelion... 794 

Egg 783 

Endive 784 

Fish 268,  784 

Florida. 789 

Fruit 783,  787 

Game  789 

Garnishes 978 

Gelinoea 784 

Ham  '1^8 

Herring 785 

Hop 795 

Inexpensive .772 

Japanese  791 

Jelly-border  for 796 

Kinds  to  use 1033 

Lemon 789 

Lettuce 786 

Lobster ,787 

Lobster,  canned 788 

Meat 788 

Meat  and  Pork. 788 

Melon 338 

Mint 784 

Mixed . 780 

Mixing  773 

Mutton  and  Carrot. . . 788 

Nasturtium 789 

Onion 789 

Orange 789 

Oyster 789 

Pepper 781 

Pickle 790 

Philadelphia 790 

Potato 790 

Potato  with  Beets 791 

Potato  with  cabbage  791 

Radish 783 

Russian ..729 

Salmon 268,  792 

Salmon,  canned  .792 

Sandwiches 236 


Page, 


Sardine 

776,  793 

Scallop 

Serving  

Shad  Roe  

Shells 

773 

Shrimp 

Sweet-bread 

...  .794 

Tip-top 

Tomato 

794 

To  prepare 

Turnips 

796 

Variety  of 

772 

Veal 

Vegetable 

Vegetable 

Water-cress 

Wholesome 

Salad,  gelinola. 

With  fish 

784 

With  fruit 

With  game 

With  lobster 

With  meat 

With  oysters.. .. 

785 

With  poultry 

...  .785 

With  vegetables 

785 

Sally  Lunk 

5? 

Salmon. 

Baked — 

277,  280 

Boiled 

281 

Canned . . 

282 

Croquettes 

280 

Crimped 

282 

Cutlets,  broiled. 

282 

Escaloped.^ 

282 

Fritters 

Steaks,  fried 

282 

Stewed 

283 

When  in  season. 

919 

Salsify. 

Cake 

870 

Fried 

870 

Fritters 

870 

On  toast 

870 

Scalloped 

Soup 

870 

Salt,  spiced 

181 

Sandwiches. 

Beef  

483 

Cheese 

Cream 

Egg 

585 

French 

452 

Ham 

....  585 

Jelly... 

7. ...451 

Lunch 

..  . 586 

Mixed 

586 

Preserve 

638 

Raspberry 

. 482.  638 

Reception 

Rolls 

587 

Salad 

. 236,  586 

Toast 

Tongue 

587 

' Victoria 

452 

Sauce  

284 

Sardines, 

American 

283 

Fried 

283 

How  made 

283 

Salad 

. 776,  793 

Sauces  for  meats. 

Almond 

16 

Anchovy 167 


INDEX  TO  COOKERY  RECIPES. 


1279 


Page. 


Page. 


Page, 


Apple 167 

Asparagus 168 

Bain  marie  for 162 

Bechamel 179 

Bread 168 

Brown 161 

Caper 168 

C arrack 483 

Celery 169 

Celery  seed  foe 163* 

Chestnut 169 

Chili 169 

Crab 170 

Cranberry .170 

Cream 170,362 

Currrnt 170 

Currant-Jelly 171 

Curry  171 

Custard  kettle  for.  .171 

Drawn-butter 171 

Egg 172 

Gooseberry 172 

Hollandaise 172 

Horse-radish 172,  463 

Indian  Chutney 173 

Italian 173 

Leamington 173 

Lemon 171, 173 

Liver  and  lemon  — 174 

Liver  and  parsley 174 

Lobster 174 

Lobster,  economical.  175 

Magical 161 

Mayonaise 175 

Mayonaise,,fish 175 

Mephistophelian  ...  712 

Mint 175 

Mustard 468 

Olive 175 

Onion  176 

Orange 176 

Oyster 176 

Oyster,  brown 177 

Parsley 177 

Pickle 171,  494 

Piquant 562 

Polish ; 493 

Robert 512,  592 

Shrimp 171 

Sorrel 475 

Tnrtare  177 

Thickening  for 162 

Tomato 177 

Tomato,  French — 178 

To  repare 161 

White 178 

White,  French 178 

Sauces  for  puddin®3. 

Apricot 767 

Arrowroot 766 

Cape  May 767 

Caramel 767 

Cherry 767 

Chocolate 767 

Cider 767 

Cocoanut 768 

Cocoanut  hard 770 

Cream,  cold, 768 

Cream,  whipped 768 

Currant 768 

Currant,  dried 768 

Custard 768 

Dip 768 

Egg 768 


Every-day 768 

Foaming 768 

Fruit 768,  769 

Golden 769 

Hard .769 

Jelly 768 

Lactiola 770 

Lemon 769,770,771 

Lemon,  hard.  ..769,  770 

Maple-sugar 770 

Marigold 770 

Minnehaha  770 

Orange 770 

Orange,  hard  769 

Peach 767 

Pine-apple 771 

Plain 769 

Prairie 769 

Prune 771 

Queen 771 

Raspberry 767,  771 

Sago 771 

Saratoga 767,  771 

Snow 767 

Spice 769,  771 

Strawberry 767 

Syrup 786 

Vanilla 741 

Vinegar 771 

Sauer  Kraut  1010 

Sausage 527 

And  apple 527 

Baked 527 

Breaded 527 

Cold,  sliced 1047 

C reeled.-. 527 

Liver 527,  1047 

Mixed . 1047 

Mutton 528 

Oysters 528 

Pork 1047 

Pork,  Buckeye 1047 

Poultry 528 

Roll 527,  529,  581 

Summer 1047 

Triple 1047 

Veal 528 

Virginia 1047 

White 528 

With  Chestnuts 529 

Savarin 766 

With  apples 766 

Scallops 816 

Baked 816 

Chinese 816 

Fried 816 

Stewed 816 

SCALLOPADE 196 

Scrapple  .. : 518 

Philadelphia.  . 571 

Scones 50 

Shad,  baked  ...  283 

When  in  season 919 

Shells. 

Cut 631 

Folded ,....6,32 

Layer 631 

Laver,  double 631 

Patty  631 

Pyramid 632 

Tart  630 

Vol-an-vent 632 

Shell-fish 797 

Potted 817 


Sheep-head,  baked... 

.284 

Sherbet,  Crystal 

.403 

Lemon 

.221 

Milk 

221 

Orange . . 

.221 

Pine-apple 

.221 

Strawberry 

.222 

Short-cake. 

Orange  

.639 

Peach  

.639 

Raspberry 

Saratoga 

.639 

Strawberry 

.639 

Shrimps  

Curried 

.817 

Pie , 

Potted 

Shrub. 

Blackberry 

.222 

Currant 

.222 

Gooseberry  

.222 

Raspberry 

.222 

Strawberry 

Slaw. 

Cold 

Cream 

Cream,  whipped 

.796 

Spoon-fork 

.994 

Smelts,  fried 

Snaps. 

Ginger 

.105 

Ginger,  Hotel 

.105 

Lemon  ...r 

Snipe. 

Fried 

Roast  

.374 

When  in  season 

919 

Soda,  Effervescing... 

.223 

Soles,  fried 

.285 

Souffles. 

Almond 

.740 

Apple 

.125 

Baked 

.124 

Cheese  

.125 

Chestnut 

.125 

Chicken  

.125 

Chocolate 

.126 

Chocolate,  cold 

.126 

Cream 

.126 

Jelly 

Lemon  

127 

Macaroni 

.127 

Omelette,  fruit  

.127 

Orange 

.128 

Potato 

Soup. 

Almond 

Amber 

826 

Apple 

.826 

Apricot 

Artichoke 

.826 

Asparagus 

.827 

Asparagus  with 

pease 

Baked  

.842 

Balls  for 848, 

, 849 

Bariev 

.827 

Basis'for 

Bean 827 

,840 

Bean,  meatless 

..828 

Bean-Saturday..827,  840 

Bean,  Turtle 

.8-^7 

Bean,  white 

..828 

Beef  

1280 


INDEX  TO  COOKERY  RECIPES. 


Page. 


Beefsteak 828 

Beef,  okra  829 

Black  829 

Blackberry 835 

Bouillon 830 

Bread 831 

Cabbage  831 

Carrot  831 

Cauliflower — 831 

Celery 831 

Celery  cream 831 

Cherry  ...  835 

Chestnut 832 

Chicken 832 

Chicken,  Southern.  ..832 

Clarifying... 825 

Clear  818,825 

Clam  832,833 

Cocoanut 833 

Corn  833 

Corn,  hasty 833 

Corn,  meatless 834 

Cream 834 

Cream  of  Barley 834 

Cream  of  Beets 834 

Crefma  of  Salmon 834 

Cream  of  Spinach.  .834 

Croutons  for 849 

Cucumber 834 

Flemish 834 

Fruit 8^9,  835 

Hasty  840 

Julienne 836 

Lemon 836 

Lobster 836 

Making 819 

Milk 836 

Milk  with  eggs 836 

Mock  Turtle. 836 

Mutton 838 

Necessity  of 818 

Noodle 838 

Okra . . .838 

Onion  838 

Ox  Tail 839 

Oyster 839 

Oyster,  mock.. , 839 

Parsnip 839 

840 

Poached  eggs  for...  821 

Pea,  split 840 

Pheasant 840 

Potato 841 

Pumpkin 841 

Rabbit 841 

Raspberry 835 

Rice 842 

Royal .845 

Sago  842 

Seasoning 820 

Sheeps-head 842 

Spinach  842 

Spring 842 

Sorrel 843 

Sour  cream 847 

Strawberry 834 

Stock  822 

Swiss 845 

Terrapin,  mock 846 

Thick 818 

Thickening  for 820 

Tomato 843 


Tomato  with  rice.  ..844 
Tomato,  meatless. . . .844 


Page. 


To  warm  up 992 

Triple 840 

Turkey 844 

Turnips 844 

Turtle  • 845 

Variety  of 819 

Veal 846 

Vegetable 846 

Vegetable,  meatless. 847 

Vermicelli 847 

Weimar 847 

White 848 

Wyntoun .848 

Soup-stock. 

.Brown 179 

Complex 824 

Economical 824 

Fish 824 

Jelly 823 

Liquid 823 

Medium 825 

Plain 822 

Rich 825 

White 178,  824 

Spiced. 

Spagheti 196 

Spare-rib  pot-pie 514 

Blackberries 667 

Cherries 667,  668 

Currants 667 

Elderberries 668 

Gooseberries 668 

Grapes  ..668 

N utmeg-melon 668 

Plums 668 

Peaches 668 

Pears  668 

Tomatoes 668 

Spices,  mixed 851 

Spinach ...870 

On  toast 870 

When  in  season 919 

Sponge. 

And  bread 20 

Apricot  116 

For  winter 20 

Lemon 115 

Orange  — 115 

Pine-apple 116 

Peach 116 

Pear 116 

Squash. 

Baked  871 

Cakes 871 

Fried 871 

Patties 871 

Summei  871 

Winter. ...871 

When  in  season 919 

Squirrels,  boiled 363 

Stewed .371 

Steak,  baked 863 

Stews. 

Arabian 471 

Bean 876 

Brunswick 703 

Cabbage 876 

Corned  beef 483 

Creeled 703 

German 703 

Irish 573 

Pea  876 

Potato 876 

Powder  for 471 


Page. 

Spanish 375 

Stirabout 571 

Strawberries 807,  332 

Canned 156 

Frozen 333,334 

Meringue  §33 

Mock 333 

Oranged 333 

With  whipped  cream333 

When  in  season 918 

Sturgeon,  baked 285 

Steaks  285 

When  in  season 919 

Suet,  to'clarify 99 

Succotash 872 

Winter 872 

Sugar. 

Caramel 130 

Crackling 130 

Feathered 130 

Spun 130 

Souffle 130 

Threads 142 

To  clarify 129 

Sweet-breads 547 

And  oyster  pie 550 

Baked  547 

Blanching 1049 

Broiled  548 

Croquettes 550 

Fricassed 548 

Fried 549 

Fritters 550 

Larded 549,  550 

Sandwiches 550 

Skewered 549 

Stewed 549 

Vol-au- vents 550 

With  orange  juice — 547 

With  pease 547 

Syrup. 

Lemon ; 223 

Maple,  to  can 150 

Orange 223 

To  use 149 

Table. 

Cooks  time 913,  914 

Of  measure 915 

Of  weight 916 

Of  foods 917,  919 

Steamed  grain 591 

Tarts. 

Apple 632 

Almond 633 

Chocolate 633 

Cocoa-nut 633 

Coventry 633 

Cream 633 

Currant 634,636 

Custard 634 

English  banbury 634 

Gutter 635 

Jelly 635 

Lemon 635 

Macaroon 635 

Orange 635 

Prane 636 

Raisin 636 

Raspberry 636 

Rice 634 

Sand 99 

Strawberry 636 

Triangle 683 


INDEX  TO  COOKERY  RECIPES. 


1281 


Taffy. 

Everton 

Hickory-nut.... 

Tea. 

Au  lait 

Best 

Page 

141 

142 

205 

Cannister 

Cozy 

Float... 

For  forty 

Iced 

,.212,214 

Lemon 

215 

Making 

Mixtures 

207 

Stand 

206 

Varieties  of...., 

When  to  drink. 

204 

Teacup,  regulation 63 

Teal 

Fried 

Roast 

Terrapin. 

Fricasseed 

In  the  shell 

Stewed 

Tisane. 

Date 

Fig 

Prune 

Toad  in  hole 

482 

I VAST  

57 

Anchovy 

57 

Asparagus 

58 

Breakfast 

Buttered 

58 

Cheese  and  egg. 

58 

Chicken 

Codfish 

58 

Cream 

Dry 

Egg  

Excellent 

French 

59 

Lemon 

Meat 

Marrow-bone  . . . 

60 

Mennonite 

Oyster 

Rack 

.57, 1239 

Salmon 

Sausage 

Tomato 

Tongue 

Vegetable 

Water 

60 

Tomatoes. 

Baked 

Braised 

Candied 

Canned 

Fried 

In  brine 

880 

Scalloped 

Sliced 

Stewed 

Stuffed 

Toast 

With  eggs 

874 

With  gravy 

With  meat 

With  onions 

With  peppers. .. 

With  rice 

With  vinegar... 

873 

Tongue. 

Baked 

Baked,  spiced. . . . 

Boiled 

Braised 

Fillets 

Fried 

In  Jelly 

Larded 

Pickled 

Potted 

Scalloped 

Stewed 

Toast 

Turkey. 

Boiled 

Boned 

Croq^uettes 

Galaitnne 

Jellied 

Larded 

Pie  

Page. 

....495 

....714 

....720 

720 

Pressed 

Pudding 

Ready  for  plumpingl050 

Roast  

Scalloped 

....719 

Soup 

,...720 

Steamed 

Stewed 

...720 

To  bone 

..1050 

To  cut  up 

..1050 

Turn-overs 

Wild 

With  celery 

With  chestnuts... 

With  macaroni... 

With  oysters 

With  pork 

When  in  season . . . 

Turn-overs 

Fruit 

Peach 

Veal 

Trifle 

51, 102 

Ambushed 

French 

Lemon 

Sugar  for 

Tripe. 

Baked 

...496 

Broiled 

Creoled 

Fricasseed 

Fried 

Lyonaise 

Pickled 

...417 

Soused  

With  onion  sauce. 

...498 

Trout. 

Baked 277.285.286 

Brook  

...286 

Boiled  brook 

Broiled  brook 

When  in  season... 

Turnips. 

Baked 

Fricasseed  

...875 

Fried 

...874 

Diced  

Greens 

....875 

Mashed 

,...875 

Pickled 

...875 

When  in  season... 

81 


Page. 

With  eggs 875* 

Vanity. 

Banana 407 

Chocolate 406,  407 

Lemon 406,  4()7 

Orange 406 

Pine-apple 406 

Strawberry 406 

Vanities 298 

Veal. 

And  ham 533 

And  oysters 533 

Blanquette  of 535 

Breast  of 535 

Cakes  532 

Collops 529,  583 

Creeled 535 

Curry 530 

Curried 583 

CuUets 630,  531 

Dice 584 

Fillet  of 535,537,584 

Fricandeau  of 536 

Fricandelles 531 

Fricassee 537 

Grenadines  of 536 

Hashed 583 

Loaf 532 

Marbled 529 

Masked . 577 

Molded 460,  583 

Olives 532 

Oysters 533 

Pate 532 

Patties 584 

Pie  507 

Pot-pie ..  .533 

Potted .460,  465, 529 

Pudding 584 

Quenelles 537 

Ragvut  of 510,  584 

Relish 584 

Rissoles  of 537 

Roast 636 

With  oysters 638 

With  macaroni 685 

Vegetables 852 

Bed  of 468 

Color  of 852 

Cutters 852 

Garnishes 978 

Greens 858 

Hash 876 

Kettle 852 

Medley ,880 

Ragout 566 

Steamer  for..., 854 

Stews 876 

Time  to  cook.... 913,  914 

To  cook 852 

To  keep 853 

To  prepare 852 

Water  for 852 

Venison 353 

A la  mode 373 

Broiled 371 

Fried 871 

Hashed S71 

Patties 371 

Roast 371 

Stewed 878 

VlNEGAB. 

Cayenne 669 

Celery 669 


1282 


INDEX  TO  COOKERY  RECIPES, 


Page. 

’Cider 609,1008 

Corn 1008 

Chili 669 

Clora 669 

Page. 

Kiss 142 

Sweet 52 

WAFPLBSi... 51 

Page. 

Whortliberribs 308 

Wonders,  Andover 102 

Woodcock. 

Broiled 374 

Cucumber 669 

Economical 1008 

Elder  flower .669 

Garlic 669 

Gooseberry 1010 

Horse-radish 669 

Mint 670 

Nasturtium 670 

Oyster 670 

Quick 51 

Raised 51 

Rice 51 

Walnuts 52, 339 

Water. 

Apple 223 

Best 209 

Currant 223 

Tfiltprp.fi  209 

Fried 374 

Roast 373 

Season  for 919 

Yeast .53 

Brookside 1008 

Catnip ..379 

Dry 58,  54 

Farmer’s 55 

Hop 55 

Peach 670 

Tp.p— p.rpa.m  soda 224 

Lightning 55 

Raspberry 222 

Red  670 

Rhubarb ioiO 

Pine-apple 224 

Strawberry 224 

To  pool  ,,Tr--2T0 

Potato 55 

Potato-baU 56 

Saltless 57 

Shallot 670 

Spiced 670 

Tarragon 670 

Walnut 670 

Wafsss 52 

Water-melon. 

Canned 157 

When  in  season 919 

Weimarliks 52 

Wkitibait,  fried..  ...267 

To  freeze 57 

Without  hops 56 

Without  yeast. . . .86,  379 
Yahoo fl7 

SUPPLEMENTARY  INDEX. 


1283 


INDEX— SUPPLEMENTARY. 


Page. 

Accidents 1179,  1182 

Almonds,  to  buy,....l031 
Alum  water 


For  insects 

997 

Anchovies,  tobuy..l027 

Ants,  red 

..943,  992 

And  insects... 

944 

To  drive  away. 

1251 

Apples 

1029 

To  cook 

1030 

To  keep 

,1030,  1077 

Articles  in 

STORE 

ROOM 

1076 

Arts  of  the  toilet  ii87 
Ashes  FOR  walks... 944 
Asthma,  to  relieve . . .1146 


Babies 

Birth  of 

1101 

Care  of  1102. 

1107,  1108 

nil,  1115 

Eves 

1104 

Food 

1106 

In  summer... 

1117 

Long  clothes 

for..  ..1110 

Milk  for 

,.1103,  1116 

Milk  crust 

1105 

Navel 

1106 

Short  clothes  for ....  nil 

Snuffles 

1105 

Something  about 1101 

Sore  mouth. . 

1105 

Strangling  in . 

1104 

Water  for — 

1102 

Worms  in. .. . 

1103 

Barrel,  to  cleanse..  1247 

Basket,  work. 

949 

Bath 

1191 

Deep  leg 

Foot 

1170 

Sitz . .' 

1169 

Tub 

1260 

Vapor 

1177- 

Bay-rum 

1190 

Bed-bugs...  941 

, 1239,  1240 

Bedding 

1249 

Beef,  buying.. 

1021 

Brine  for 

..1038,  1039 

Page. 


Dried 1638 

Dried,  Pliila 1039 

Spiced  corned 1039 

Spiced  stuffed 1039 

To  carve 1056 

To  cut  up 1035 

Steak  for  winter 1040 

P>ERRIES 1029 

Bills  of  fare  1069, 1070 

For  washing  day 1082 

Birds 

Carving 1058, 1237 

To  ship 1025 

Bites  of  serpents.. ii80 

Of  dogs 1181 

Blackheads 1188 

Bleeding  at  nose..  1145 

To  stop 1145 

Blue,  fading 1086 

Board 

Bosom 1087 

Ironing 1088 

Boilers,  to  clean 1086 

Borax 1242 

Bottles,  to  clean 993 

Books,  to  preserve 947 

Box  • 

A.sh 1000 

Bread  and  Cake 972 

Ice 1077 

Knife  and  Spoon 972 

Spice 999 

Brawn 1045 


Breath,  bad.. . .1188, 1190 
Bread  for  winter  1067 
Breakfast,  summer  962 
Bright’s  disease.  ..1155 
Broken  breasts 1147 


Brooms 1236 

Holders 1253 

Broiler,  American, . .995 

Dover 1001 

Brush-stand.-. 1189 

And  comb  rack 1193 

Scrubbing 1237 

Bulbs,  Holland 1201 

Refreesia  Alba 1207 


Page 

Summer 1205 

Burns  1145,  1148,  1151, 1235 

And  scalds 1183 

From  Acids 1180 

From  Alkalies 1180 

Oil  for 1150 

Salve  for 1147 

Butter 

Artilicial 1238 

Bright 1061 

Brine  for 1062 

Granular 1061,  1255 

In  summer 1061 

In  winter 1061 

Keeping 1061 

Rancid 1061 

Rollers 1060 

Testing 1060 

To  make 1059 

White  specks  in 1060 

Worked  once 1062 

Buttermilk 

Well  flavored 1059 

Cabbage 1080 

Calf’s  feet,  to  clean  1048 
Calf’s  head,  to  buy  1024 

To  bone 1048 

To  clean 1048 

Candles 1239 

Caramels,  to  stir 991 

Care  of  cream lOGO 

Care  of  carriage  . . 1254 

Carpets,  cheap 945 

Dust  from 943,  946 

Grease  from  — 942,  1244 

Ink  from 942 

Rags 944 

Stair 932 

To  clean.  932 

To  mend 942 

To  put  down 931,  942 

To  renew 1244 

Carrots,  to  buy 1028 

Casters, 

Substitute  for 1248 

Catarrh,  1145,  1148,1152 
Cubeb  berries  for..  .1153 


1284 


SUPPLEMENTARY  INDEX. 


Page. 


Cauliflowek. 

To  buy 1028 

Celery,  to  buy 1028 

To  keep 1088, 12G1 

Cellar. 

Copperas  in 949 

Floor 947 

Neat 107.5 

To  build 1073 

To  clean 929,  1077 

To  ventilate  — 1074, 1075 

Up  ground 1075 

Cemext. 

Diamond 1245 

For  china 944,  993 

For  cracked  stoves  1236 

For  dishes 995 

For  jet 1188 

P'or  rubber 1244 

Good 946 

Valuable 1242 

Chair  bottoms 946 

Chamois  leather..  .946 

Charcoal,  use  of 1255 

Chickens,  to  buy 1025 

Cholera 1244 

Chicadees 1242 

Children. 

Bathing 1105 

Beds  for 1145 

Clothing  for... 1104,  1121 

Constipntion  in 1104 

Croup  in 1105 

Earache  in 1104 

Ears  of 1105, 1106 

Food  for  1064,1066,1106 
1125, 1127 

Hot  water  for 1153 

Indigestion  in 1114 

Lice  on 1240 

Lost 943 

Night  dress  for 1232 

Pen  for 1106 

Stockings 1086,  1248 

Teething  in .1114 

Where  to  play 1108 

Chilblains 1180,  1187  ' 

Cheese,  homemade..  1062 

Choking 1180 

Cholera  mixture..  1147 

And  soft  water 1152 

Cider,  to  keep 1081 

Cistern 1256 

Clinkers,  to  remove  994 
Clothes 

To  put  away 946,  949 

Clothing,  night 1120 

Changing 1147 

In  winter 1121 

The  feet 1122 

Cloth. 

Crumb 972 

Dish 956 

Nap  on 1240 

Coal,  how  to  use 1004 

Hard  and  soft 1034 

Coal  vase 1254 

Cockroaches 943 

Cod,  to  buy 1027 

Coke 1034 

Colds  1122, 1144, 1148,  1149 
1154 

Catarrh 1149 

In  head 1149 

Prevent  taking 1149 


Page. 


Water  for 1170 

Collars,  not  fitting..  1192 
Color  contrasts.. .1246 
Comforters,  tieing.i247 

Best 927 

COMPLEXTION 1194 

Wash  for 1194 

Benzoin  for 1194 

Compresses 1172 

Consumption 1157 

Constipation  1148,  1156 

Coral,  artificial 944 

Corns,  cure  for 1150 

CORNBREAD,  tOCllt.  ..1238 
Corn,  dried  grated..  .1242 

Cough 1155 

Hot  water  for 1147 

Mixture 1152 

Cover 

Flower  pot 1208 

For  jars 1239 

For  milk  pans 1240 

Rack  lor 998 

Under 951 

Cows  AND  turnips  1242 

Crabs,  to  buy 1027 

To  dress 1052 

Creameries 1061 

Croup 1157 

Bib  for 1157 

Cupboard 998 

Baking 997 

Spoon 997 

Custard  cups 1238 

Cuts 1145 

DAY'S,  rainy 943 

DIARRHCEA 1154 

Chronic 1145 

Oil  for 1150 

Diet 

Errors  in 1125 

In  disease 1147 

In  health 1147 

Dinner 952 

Courses 959,  965 

Dessert  for 970 

Host  and  hostess 953 

Hints  for 966,  967 

Hospitality,  vulgar.. 953 

How  to  give  a 959 

Invitations 953 

Manners  at 954 

Of  five  courses 969 

School 1253 

Dish  * 

Cloth 1002,  1237 

Cloth,  wire 988 

Drainer 990,  999, 1241 

Warmer 973 

Washers 988 

Washing 1248 

Dipthbria 1160 

Allopathy  for 1162 

Causes  of 1161 

Homeopathy  for 1160 

Sulphur  for 1161 

Water  for 1175 

Disinfectant 1250 

Drawer,  handy 974 

Dress 1192 

Art  in 1213 

Black  as  a 1218 

Common. 1121 

Economy  in 1212 


Page. 


Fitness  in 1213 

How  to 1212 

How  to  cut 1221 

How  to  fit 1223 

Howto  make 1224 

Making  over 1216 

Pretty 1213 

Renovating, 1225 

Silk,  to  clean  1089,  1095 
1225 

Satin,  to  clean 1089 

Working 1221 

Dress-making 

At  home 1212 

Altering  black  silks  1217 

Bargains 1220 

Bonnets  and  hats..  .1216 

Boys  wear 1231 

Care  of  abandoned 

things 1217 

Cai’e  of  clothes 1214 

Care  of  kid  gloves . . 1216 

Care  of  shawls 1215 

Care  of  shoes 1216 

Cashmeres  and  bro- 

cades 1218 

Cleaning  clothing..  .1215 

Crape 1227 

Dyeing 1227 

Elderly  ladies 1232 

Grease  spots ...  1225,  1226 
How  to  save  mate- 
rial  1218 

How  to  shop 1218 

How  to  use  patterns  1222 

Poverty 1213 

Out  door  costumes  1220 

per  Papatterns 1222 

Drowning 1183 

Drunkenness 1152 

Ducks,  to  buy 1025 

Wild 1026 

Dust,  to  remove 943 

Pan 1249 

Dyspepsia 1123 

Easel,  tile.  . 1247 

Ear,  the 1191 

Foreign  bodies  in ...  11 81 

Eels,  to  buy 1027 

Egg-plant I0ii8 

Eggs,  to  keep 12^8 

Soft 1247 

Erysipelas 1148 

Extract,  flavoring..  1004 

Lemon 1005 

Orange 1005 

Rose 1005 

Vanilla 1004 

Eye,  lime  in 1145 

Blackened 1148 

Dirt  in 1146 

Wash 1149,  1240 

Weak 1146 

Face,  care  of 1190 

Powder  for 1189 

Fainting 1180 

Feathers,  to  bleach  1257 
Female  weakness  1172 

Feet 1195 

Burning 1152 

Frosted 1146 

Felon 1153 

Fever  and  ague 1104 

Bilious 1164 


SUPPLEMENT  A IlY  INDEX. 


1285 


Page. 

Congestive 11G5 

Hay 1165 

Typhoid 1165 

Yellow 1167 

Filteks,  to  cleanse..  1003 

Fight  for  life 1123 

Fires,  care  of 986 

Coal 1003, 1235 

Fish,  taste  of 992 

Shell 1052 

To  buy 1026 

To  carve 1058 

White 1028 

Fleas,  to  drive  off — 943 

Flies,  to  keep  off 1235 

Floors,  to  oil 1257 

Flowers 1197 

Artificial 1253 

Chinese  Primrose.  ..1207 

Crab  Cactus 1208 

Earth  worms  in 1207 

Fresh 1209 

Fuschia 1208 

Ivies 1207 

Lily  of  the  valley 1207 

Pots 1207 

Boot 980 

Slips 1209 

Soot  for 1208 

Spring 1201 

Stand 1209 

Flour  and  bread.. io05 

Sacks 1249 

To  buy 1032 

Fluid. 

Evasive 1089 

Washing 1097 

Fly  paper 1237 

Food 1190 

Amount  of 1125 

Chemistry  of 1064 

Different 1069 

Flesh 1127 

For  Brain  Workers.  1126 
For  sick..  1126,  1132, 1134 

Iron  in 1068 

Pectine  in 1068 

Perfect 1064* 

Quality  of 1064 

Rich 1127 

Sulphur  in 1068 

Varieties  of 1126 

Fomentations 1171 

Foot  muff 1239 

Stools 1249 

Foreign  Bodies 

In  ear 1181 

In  eye 1181 

In  nostril 1181 

For  the  sick 

Acid  drink 1133 

Air 1129 

Alum  whey 1134 

Arrowroot  blanc- 
mange   1137 

Arrowroot  custard . . 1136 

Articles 1129 

Articles  easily  di- 
gested  1142,1143 

Baked  milk 1134 

Barley  water 1135 

Beef  Droth 1140 

Beef  raw 1134. 1142 

Beef  tea... 1141, 1142,1145 
Beef  tea  raw 1134 


Page. 


Beef  tea  soup 1135 

Blackberry  cordial.. 1140 

Blackberry  wine 1137 

Boiled  flour 1142 

Bran  biscuit 1139 

Broiled  beefsteak.. .1138 

Broiled  chicken 1136 

Buttermilk  mulled  ..1135 

Buttermilk  stew 1134 

Cinnamon  tea 1136 

Chicken  broth.  1134, 1138 

Clam  broth 1136 

Common  sense 1144 

Corn  meal  gruel 1141 

Cracked  wheat  pud- 
ding  1138 

Cream  soup 1134 

Crust  coffee 1134 

Currant  shrub 1135 

Egg  gruel 1134 

English  gruel 1135 

Fever  drink 1135 

Fruit  farina 1138 

Good  toast 1140 

Graham  gems 1136 

Grease  from  broths.  1134 

Jellies Ils5 

Kumyss  to  make 1138 

Lemon  egg  nog 1138 

Meat,  for  invalids.  ..1140 

Milk  porridge . . 1135, 1139 

Mutton  broth 1138 

Mutton  tea 1142 

Oatmeal  blanc  mange 

1135 

Oatmeal  cakes 1137 

Oatmeal  crackers.  ..1141 
Oatmeal  pie  crust..  .1137 

Oatmeal  relish 1139 

Oatmeal  wafers 1140 

Oldtime  food 1141 

Panada 1136 

Parched  rice 1134 

Prepared  flour 1139 

Poached  egg 1137 

Raspberry  relish 1134 

Rice  jelly 1136 

Rice  water 1142 

Sago  custard 1134 

Sago  jelly  pudding..  1136 

Sassafras  drink 1134 

Sea  moss  farine 1135 

Stewed  oysters 1139 

Strawberry  acid 1137 

Tapioca  jelly 1136 

Tamarind  whey 1134 

Uncooked  egg 1138 

Vegetable  soup 1135 

Warming  cup 1135 

Wheat  pudding 1134 

Wine  whey 1134 

Frames 1181 

Flies  off  gilt 943 

Putty  off  window 943 

Rustic 944 

Freckles 1189,  1193 

Freezing 1181 

Fruit,  to  buy 1029 

Gathering 1078 

Shelves 1074 

Sun  printing  on 1255 

To  keep — ., 1078 

Fuei  , 


comparative  value  of  920 
Fuller’s  Purifier  1248 


Page. 

Furniture,  to  buy..  9*44 


Filling 1238 

Polish 932,  1239 

Polish,  magic 938 

Spots  on 1238,  1245 

TO  reflnish 941 

Varnished 1242 

Furs,  care  of 935 

Dyes  for 1252 

Game,  to  preserve  — 1024 

to  buy 1025 

To  carve 1057 

Gapes 1*254 

Garden,  bulbs  for...  1201 

Flowers 1197 

Out-door 1199 

To  plant  in 1*200 

Windows 1208 

Garments,  outside . . 1241 
Garnishes  and 

SAUCES 975 

For  fish 976 

For  game 977 

For  meat 976 

For  poultry 977 

For  salad 978 

For  vegetables 978 

CAS-LIGHTER 1*236 

Gathering,  chronicli48 

Geese,  to  buy 1025 

To  carve 1058 

General  Sugges- 
tions  940 

Glue 1236 

Grain,  weight  of 1245 

Grapes,  to  buy 1030 

To  keep 1079 

Grease, 

to  remove 1086, 1095 

To  cleanse iioo 

Gridiron, care  of...  994 
Groceries, 


Hair,  dandruff  in 1188 

Falling  out 1240 

Food  for 1189 

Oils 1188 

Superfluous 1190,  1244 

Tonics 1187 

Wash 1243 

Hams,  to  select 1023 

Buckeye 104i'. 

Philadelphia, 1043 

Small 1043 

Suggestions  for 1043 

To  carve 1056 

To  cure 1041 

To  keep 1044 

To  soak 1042 

Virginia 1043 

With  vinegar 1043 

York 1043 

Hands 1191 

and  face 1188 

Chapped..  1145, 1151, 1241 

Stains  on 1189 

Hanging 1181 

Hat  bands, 

to  renovate 1245 

Headaches 1167 

Heart,  palpitation  of  1168 

Hearth,  cheap 1251 

Heater,  grate 997 

Table 998 

Herring 1128,  1244 


1286 


SUPPLEMENTARY  INDEX. 


Page. 

Hemorrhages 

.1184 

Hickory  Nuts, 

To  freshen 

.1242 

Hints,  Floral 

.1207 

About  marketing. . 

.1021 

For  the  well 

.1119 

For  sick  room 

.1129 

To  employer 

.1017 

To  employed 

.1019 

Hinges,  creaking... 

. 943 

Hoarseness 

.1146 

Hot  water 

.1153 

House,  burning 

.1181 

Heat  for 

. 924 

Insects 

.1251 

House  cleaning . . . 

. 928 

Best  way  of 

930 

Fall 

934 

Dots 

. 937 

How  to  begin 

. 929 

Housekeepers’  al- 

PHABET 

. 950 

Housekeeping, 

An  accomplishment  922 

How  to  learn 

. 922 

Wrong  ideas  of 

. 923 

Hydrophobia  

1258 

Ink,  black 

.1240 

Indelible 

948 

White 

1239 

Insurance 

.1244 

Iron,  rust 

,1089 

Bust  in 

,1235 

Rust  from 

,1237 

To  clean  Russia 

,1235 

Irons  to  clean 

,1085 

Arrange 

,1241 

Care  of 

.1094 

Flat 

.1087 

From  scorching...  . 

1085 

Ironing, 

.1085 

Cuffs  and  collars . . . 

.1086 

Day 

.1084 

Jars,  to  cleanse 

. 994 

To  wash 

. 999 

JAUNDICE 1145, 

,1158 

Jewelry, 

to  cleanse 1187, 

1191 

Kalsomining 

. 936 

Kettle, 

to  clean 989,  996, 

,1239 

Kicking  cow 

.1237 

Kid  gloves 

.1237 

Kid  shoes 1188 

Kindlings,  to  make  995 

Kitchen 982 

Apron 986 

Economy  in. .990,  991, 1247 

Floors  of 982 

Lamps  for 983 

Mat 986 

Pantry 983 

Sink 989 

Steamer 985 

Systematic 982 

Tray 986 

Wrinkles 991 

Knives,  care  of 986 

And  spoon  tray 986 

Cement  for.., 994 

Chopping 998 

Handles 1237 

Onion 989 

Paring 983 

Potato 989 


Page. 


Rust  on  994 

To  clean 993 

Labok-saving  con- 

TUIVANCES 949 

Laces,  to  clean 1088 

To  pack 1248 

To  wash 1093 

L.>Mu,tobuy 1023 

To  carve 1055 

Lamp,  care  of 984 

Chimneys 944 

Fixtures 1248 

Lighter 1235 

Wicks 945 

Lantern,  good 998 

Lard,  trying 1044 

Laundry,  the 1082 

Dots 1085 

Tubs 1082 

Leaks 1082 

In  chimneys 1236 

In  roofs 1235 

Leanness 1190 

Leaves,  to  press 1208 

Extension 974 

Lemons,  to  use 993 

Best 1030 

Life-pres  er  ver  ....  1 179 

Lights,  taper 1153 

In  cistern 1237 

Lighting  rod .1257 

Lighting  cream 945 

Lilies 1200 

Lime,  in  cans 1237 

Water 1257 

Linen  to  Bleach  . . .1246 

Liniment 1145, 1146 

Alger 1150 

Clierokee 1147 

Magic 1151 

Liquid,  soldering 1002 

Lobster,  to  bnv 1027 

To  dress 1052 

Lock-.!  AW 1152 

Lounge,  home-made.  1251 
Lunch 

Summer 968 

AVinter 971 

Mackerel,  salt 1028 

Mat,  long 1246 

Door 948 

Economical 947 

Table 972 

Matches,  friction 1242 

Match  safe 1246 

Mattreses 927 

Cover  for 928 

Marble,  care  of 939 

Oil  from  1238 

To  clean 1237 

Marjoram 1032 

Meals,  number  of 
1119, 1127 

Meal,  Buckwheat 1031 

Corn 1032 

Oat 1031, 1081 

Meats,  curing..  .1037, 1261 

In  hot  weather 1040 

Without  curing 1039 

Measures 995 

Medicine,  to  drop.  ..1149 

Spoon 1241 

Melted  snow 1235 

Mending 944 

Menstruation 1150 


Page. 


Mice  i236 

Mildew,  to  take  out.  1086 

Milk,  straining 1060 

And  manna 1146 

Mirrors,  to  clean 934 

Mixture,  cleaning. . . 938 


Mosquitoes  ....  1188, 1243 


Patches .1188 

mucilage 1243 

Muslin,  to  bleach ....  1096 

Mushrooms 1028 

Mutton,  to  buy 1022 

To  cut  up 1037 

To  carve 1055 

Nails,  to  drive 1235 

Nei^ralgia  1149 

Nipples,  to  harden...  1145 

Sore 1146 

Nose ii9l 

Oil,  to  take  out 1085 

In  food 1067 

Proportion  of 1067 

Oil-cloths,  to  clean.. 938 

Oil-rubs 1174 

Ointment 

Camphorated 1148 

Golden 1155 

Itch 1150 

Magnetic 1151 

Olives 1032 

Onions,  to  keep 1080 

Flavor 1240 

Odors 1236 

Oranges,  to  buy 1030 

Oysters,  to  buy 1028 

Overshoes 1237 

Packs  1173 

Pail,  shrinking  of 943 

Pour.... 1174 

Pains 1145 

Paint 

Brushes 1243 

Buckets 1239 

Color  of 1236 

‘ Dry 1236 

Smell  of 944 

To  dry 1245 

To  take  out 1086 

When  to 1235 

Painting 936 

Care  of 939 

To  clean  before.. 938,  939 
Pan 

Crumd  brush  and...  972 

iNew  tin 985 

Pancake  lifter  ....  995 
Paper 

Cases 973 

On  tin 946 

Papering 937 

Papered  wall,  to . . . 

clean 940 

Parcels,  care  of 944 

Parties,  Breakfast..  955 

Evening 955 

Partridge,  to  carve.  1058 

Paste,  good 1235 

Everlasting 1247 

Perpetual 948 

Peaches 1031 

Pears 1031 

Pearls,  to  keep 1187 


SUPPLEMENTARY  INDEX. 


1287 


Page. 


Peas,  to  buy 1029 

To  keep 1080 

Pepper,  white 1033 

Perfumery 1196 

Pheasant,  to  carve..  1058 
Piano 

To  keep  and  dust.. . 926 

Piece-bags 1245 

Pictures,  to  hang. ..  945 

Piles 146 

Plants,  bedding 203 

Hints  about 209 

House 210 

Without  afire 207 

Plasters,  mustard..  151 
Plaster  OF  Paris.. 

mending — 945 

Placqub  hanger. . .1250 
Pleurisy 1145 

[fOCKET 

Apron 984 

Clothes-pin 1091 

Duster 928 

Sliop^  . Q4Q 

Poison,  antidotes  to.  .1185 

Polishing 998 

Iron 1085, 1087, 1090 

Shirts 1087 

Fork,  to  buy 1023 

Pickled 1042, 1044 

To  carve 1056 

To  cut  up 1037, 1041 

Potatoes 1029 

To  deep 1080 

Poultry,  to  dress.  ..1049 

Food  for 1239 

To  market 1033 

Pounder,  clothes ....  1096 

Prints,  to  wash 1093 

Pumps,  to  thaw  out..  .1245 

From  freezing 1242 

Quails 1058 

Quincy- 1145 

Rabbits,  to  carve 1056 

RAISINS 1032 

Rashes 1153 

Rats 1238 

Tran 1249 

Red  edges  on  books.. 1244 


Refrigerator,  to  clean 
1237 

Register,  safe 1252 

Rheumatism..  .1145, 11.51 


Rice 1032 

Ring,  napkin 973 

Room,  to  clean 926 

Bath 928 

Bed 926 

Books  in  each 928 

Closet  in  bath 928 

Dining 951 

Finish  for 947 

Guest 927 

Sewing 928 

Sick  1129 

Sitting 926 

Store 1075 

To  dust 9-25 

Rope,  new 1252 

Rose  slugs 1207 

Roup 1252 

Rugs,  rag 945 

Rust,  on  plows 1248 

Saly  e for  burns  . . . 1149 
Buckeye 1158 


Page. 

Castle 1261 

Conklins 1150 

Healing 1158 

Salt,  too  much 992 

In  milk  gravy 992 

For  preserving  meat  1037 

Scales,  good 999 

Scallops,  to  buy, 1028 

Scarlet  fever  1109, 1159 
ScoRTCH,  to  take  out.  1029 

Screens 1250 

Screws,  rusted 944 

Seeds,  to  keep 1238 

To  start 1250 

Self  posession 1179 

Shelves,  hanging ....  1261 

Sheets,  care  of 944 

Shirts,  to  do  up 1098 

Shirt  bosoms 

Enamel  for 1088 

To  do  up 1097 

Shocks 1180, 1182 

Shingles 1236 

Shoes,  blacking  for.  .1188 


Care  of 

1247 

Castor  oil  for.... 

1188 

Durable 

Shrubs 

1204 

Sickroom 

Disinfectant  for, 

1133 

Neatness  in 

1130 

Quiet  in 

1130 

Small  lamp  for. , 

1131 

Utensils  in 

1131 

Wash  for 

SiCK-HEADACHE  1145  1147 

Side-board,  dustless  973 

Silk,  to  keep 

1243 

Tar  from 

1240 

Silverware,  ... 

.944,  947 

1235,  1237. 

Sink,  moveable.., 996 

Iron ’996 

Skin,  to  protect 1148 

Sleeplessness, 1147 


1154,  1241 


Sleeve-protector.  . 1241 

Smells,  bad 

Snow  ON  roof 

.1241 

Socks  to  darn 

.1239 

Soap  

. 943 

Bark , 

.1080 

Boiled .' 

.1100 

Boiler 

Economy  in 

. 993 

Extract  of 

.1088 

Family 

Gall 

Hard 

Hard  time 

.1089 

Sun 

.1099 

Yankee  shaving 

.1180 

Sore  throat 

..1148 

1150,  1154,  1159. 

Spatula  for  tongue . 

.1162 

Sponge,  to  soften . . . 

.1255 

Basket 

.1191 

Sprains,  . . 1146, 1147, 

1151 

Stains,  berrv 

Egg 

Fruit 

Ink 

. 933 

Ink  from  wood 938  939 

Nitrate  of  silver 

.1088 

On  books 

StAMMBRINO .'  1146 

Starch 

Coffee 1089 

Fine io93 

Flour 1098 

Stiff-joints ii4S 

Stings,  bee ii48 

Of  insects ii79 

Stoves,  care  of 938 

Gas 996 

HSlders 993 

Oil  . 996,  1253 

Polish 1235,  1243 

Trimmings 1237 

STRAw,bleaching 1246 

Suffocation ii82 

Sugar,  kinds  of 1068 

Best 1033 

In  food 1067 

To  buy 1033 

To  preserve  meat...  1038 

Vanilla ..1005 

SWEETBREADS,tO  buyl024 

To  blanch 1049 

Table 

Clothes,  to  clean ....  looo 

Clearing 950 

Cover 994 

Folding 999 

For  dinner 959 

Leaves 97^ 

Linens 1002 

Mats 972 

Movable 1247 

Of  foods  ..1070,  1071,  1072 

Of  starch 1066 

Ornament 973 

Outfit 955 

Toilet ..1193 

Ware,  wire 992 

Tea,  to  keep- 991 

Clover 1152 

Ground 993 

To  buy 1032 

Teeth 1192, 1193 

Terrapins,  to  buy . . .1028 

To  dress 1053 

Tetter ngg 

Tin,  to  mend 944 

To  prevent  rusting..  .997 

To  scour ...1235 

Tomatoes 1029 

Tongue,  to  buy i023 

To  pickle 1038, 1040 

Depresser 1102 

Toothache  1146, 1148 1156 

Trichinae 1145 

Tripe,  to  clean 1041 

To  buy 1041 

Tuknips 1020 

Turkeys,  to  buy 1025 

Boiled 1057 

Roast 1057 

To  carve io54 

Umbrella  stand  ..  .1254 

Undeim^over 951 

Utensils,  cooking.. . 988 

Ice  cream loic 

Kitchen 1014 

\ EAL,  to  buy 1028 

To  eaive 105.5,  li48 

To  cut  up 1031 


1288 


SUPPLEMENTARY  INDEX. 


Vegetables 
Mode  of  preparing  ..913, 
914 

Packing 1081 

Salad 1081 

Time  to  cook 913,  914 

Time  to  digest ..  .913,  914 

To  buy 1028 

To  keep 1080, 1081 

Velvet,  to  restore..  .1086 

Veins,  varicose 1144 

Venison,  to  buy  1026, 1056 

To  carve 1055 

Ventilation 1121 

Ventilator 1243 

Vines,  climbing 1202 

Waiters,  instruction 

to 960  9fr4 

Walks,  to  keep  clean  1236 

Warts 1189 

Wash-basins 1244 

Bench 1087 

Washing. 

Blankets 1091 

Brown  linen. 1090 

Black  dresses 1090 

Cashmere 1089 

Cambric 1093 

Colored  muslin 1090 

Day 1082 

Di«lies. 900 


Paere. 

Dish-wipers 1089 

Delicate  muslins 1091 

Feathers 1087 

Fluid 933  1090 

Gloves 1090 

Lace 1093, 1094 

Lace  curtains 1096 

Lace  ruchings 1092 

Lawn 1094 

Light  fabrics 1093 

Milk,  for 1067 

Red  table  linen 1086 

Ribbons 1090 

Silk  dress 1092 

Silk  hdkf 1093 

Silk  underwear 1091 

Thread  lace 1090 

To  preserve  colors.,  1087 
1089 

Witli  turpentine 1092 

Woolen  goods,  1098, 1097 

Waste  pipes,  to 

clean 940 

Water,  copperas 993 

Cabbage 997 

Poisonous 996 

Pure 1001 

To  keep  ice 945 

To  soften . . . .943,  944,  994 

Treatment 1169 

Weather  strips  ....  1256 


Page 

Weeds,  to  destroy 944 

Wens 1147 

Weights  and  meas- 
ures  |915,  916 

Whitewash,  hard, .,  938 

When  food  is  in 

SEASON 917,  919 

Wine,  unfermented ..  1245 
Whooping  cough.  ..1149 
1156 

V/INDOWS,  to  wash  931, 938 


Hook  ...  1249 

Icy 943 

Kitchen 997 

Mica 1241 

To  clean 992 

Wood  1241 

Ebonizing 1237 

Piling 1242 

To  buy 1034 

To  harden 1235 

Wool,  to  cleanse.. , . . . 1246 
Worms. 

Cabbage 1241 

In  horses 1246 

On  gooseberries 1082 

Tape 1149 

Work-basket 949 

W OUND  .poisonous — 1179 

From  rusty  nail 1146 

Punctured 1188 


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